How to Spend a Literary Long Weekend in Edinburgh
“I’ve no idea where ideas come from, and I hope I never find out; it would spoil the excitement for me if it turned out I just have a funny little wrinkle on the surface of my brain which makes me think about invisible train platforms.” This is one of my favorite quotes from author J.K Rowling, one of the many literary minds that can inspire a visit to the city of Edinburgh.
Scotland has been home to many great writers and Edinburgh embodies the culture of their works. It is a place overflowing with literary history from renowned writers like Sir Walter Scott, Ian Rankin, Kenneth Grahame, and J.M. Barrie. From speakeasies hidden in the side streets, views of Edinburgh Castle looming in the distance from a hotel room, and a proper introduction to traditional Scotch whisky, it is a place for writers and book lovers alike to become intertwined with the culture and places that influenced their favorite stories.
· FRIDAY ·
The Principal Hotel
19-21 George Street
5:00pm
Check-in begins at the traditional Principal Hotel in Charlotte Square in New Town. The hotel has a notable history and beautiful views of Edinburgh Castle in the distance. The property dates back to the 1800s and has housed legends like Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns. The cozy rooms make it ideal for writers looking for inspiration or a place to concentrate on their current work, and when you’ve had enough solitude you can head to the Editor’s Bar to check your work and reward yourself with a cocktail before dinner. The nearby Charlotte Square Gardens is also home to the annual Edinburgh Book Festival every August.
The White Hart Inn
34 Grassmarket
8:00pm
Founded in 1516, this is one of Edinburgh’s oldest public houses named for a legendary hunting trip of the Scottish King David I. The White Hart Inn has a history of literary patrons including the aforementioned Burns and William Wordsworth; creepily, it was also the haunt of William Burke and William Hare, who murdered 16 people in less than a year and sold their cadavers, inspiring several true crime books. Stop in and bring a book to read while you can enjoy traditional Scottish fare.
· SATURDAY ·
Edinburgh Castle
Castlehill
10:00am
It is a 15-minute walk or a short cab ride to Castlehill from the Principal Hotel to the front of Edinburgh Castle. The line can get very crowded during high season, so it’s best to get there in the early morning hours. For 18 euros, you can walk the grounds, learn about the history of the castle and witness relics like the Stone of Destiny of the Crown Jewels. Some locals say the castle was the inspiration for Hogwarts from Harry Potter. You can learn more about this particular landmark and its Harry Potter connection by joining a Harry Potter tour of the city.
The Elephant House
21 George Bridge
12:00pm
After your tour of the castle, head to Old Town and make a stop by the George Bridge to visit the famous Elephant House. The small eatery owes much its fame to J.K. Rowling, who worked there on much of the Potter series, and who walked the neighborhood for inspiration. If you want to take pictures, you’ll have to make a purchase so stop inside for a quick bite to follow in Rowling’s footsteps.
Greyfriars Kirkyard
Greyfriars Place
12:30pm
Nearby the Elephant House heading south is Greyfriar Cemetery, which is believed to be another important place for J.K. Rowling, as some of the headstones inspired characters in the books, like Sirius Black. The cemetery also contains the gravesites of writer John Bayne of Pitcairlie and publisher Alexander Donaldson. About a ten-minute walk from the cemetery is one of the city’s best bookstores, Armchair Books, worth a stop especially if you enjoy browsing vintage books.
The National Library of Scotland
George IV Bridge
1:30pm
As one of the largest libraries in the country, the National Library deserves some time set aside for a visit. This enormous building is located right up the street from Elephant House and serves as home to seven million books. The books include rare finds on display like the letter submitted by Charles Darwin with an original copy of his manuscript, Origin of Species, copies of the Gutenberg Bible, and the first folio of Shakespeare.
The Writers’ Museum
Lawn market, Lady Stair’s House
2:30pm
Keep walking, and you will reach the Writers’ Museum located in a 17th-century house in Old Town on Royal Mile. The Lady Stair’s House was built in 1622 for Sir William Gray and named after his granddaughter. The museum is a tribute to the lives of three famous Scottish writers—Robert Burns, Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. It houses portraits, original manuscripts, and personal items. Adjacent to the house is Makar’s Court which incorporates quotes from famous pieces in Scottish literature throughout the pavement in its courtyard.
The Scotch Whisky Experience
354 Castlehill
4:00pm
You can’t leave Scotland without sampling some of its most excellent whisky. The Scottish Whisky Experience on Royal Mile offers tourists a chance to sample some of its best whisky with an appetizer menu so you can keep up with your drinks.
The Oxford Bar
8 Young Street
8:00pm
Enjoy your last night in Edinburgh with a visit to one of the most famous pubs in the literary world. The Oxford Bar has a reputation for attracting writers and artists alike, and is a favorite of author Ian Rankin who wrote of the place: “Pub culture has changed over the years, but the Oxford Bar survives, providing no food, no jukebox or pool table—just good chat and peaceful nooks.”
· SUNDAY ·
Scott Monument
E.Princes Street Gardens
12pm
Start your Sunday by taking a walk to the Scott Monument in New Town, the most significant monument dedicated to a literary figure in the world. On the death of Sir Walter Scott in 1832, the city decided to create a statue honoring the great writer.
