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    Pattern Drafting and Foundation and Flat Pattern Design - A Dressmaker's Guide
    Pattern Drafting and Foundation and Flat Pattern Design - A Dressmaker's Guide
    Pattern Drafting and Foundation and Flat Pattern Design - A Dressmaker's Guide
    Ebook127 pages53 minutes

    Pattern Drafting and Foundation and Flat Pattern Design - A Dressmaker's Guide

    By Ida Riley Duncan

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    About this ebook

    A detailed guide to dressmaking, being a handbook of pattern drafting and design. Extensively illustrated with simple, useful diagrams and step-by-step instructions, this volume is ideal for those with little previous experience, and would make for a fantastic addition to the bookshelf of today's tailor and dressmaker.

    Contents include: “Pattern Drafting”, “Tools Necessary for Pattern Making”, “Chart of Measurements”, “Basic Pattern for Waist from Given Measurements”, “Construction of Pattern”, “Formula for Back of Plain Waist”, “Draft of Front of Waist from Chart Given”, “Measurements”, “Formula for Front of Plain Waist”, etc.

    Many vintage dressmaking books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on dressmaking and tailoring.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateApr 16, 2013
    ISBN9781473383036
    Pattern Drafting and Foundation and Flat Pattern Design - A Dressmaker's Guide

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    Pattern Drafting and Foundation and Flat Pattern Design - A Dressmaker's Guide - Ida Riley Duncan

    PATTERN DRAFTING

    AS BEFORE STATED, drafting a pattern is generally considered a very complicated process, but, with the following simple system of drafting, it should not be confusing to the average person. At first, it is merely a mechanical process for which explicit directions are given.

    Naturally, for the first pattern, it takes more time than using a commercial pattern, but if for no other reason than for fitting, it is a big advantage to have at least a drafted-to-measure foundation pattern from one’s own measurements.

    Commercial patterns naturally follow the lines of the average figure. But how many of us are average? Commercial patterns are unable to cope with all the irregularities of form, hence they are often too tight in one place, too loose in another, too small here or too large there. From a basic pattern that fits the individual and consequently takes care of her particular needs, one can make simple types of garments such as a plain waist or skirt, children’s dresses, alter commercial patterns, make ready-to-wears fit, also use any material one has on hand—in other words, cut the suit according to the cloth—remodel clothes, using part of one garment and part of another, or have certain parts of woven cloth and other parts knitted. These are impossibilities if one doesn’t know the basic rules of shaping.

    TOOLS NECESSARY FOR PATTERN MAKING

    1. Paper on which the pattern is drafted to scale. Manila paper is best, but one may use a cleaner’s paper bag, or other wrapping paper, but it should be tough.

    2. A soft pencil and an eraser.

    3. A T square. If this is not available, use a book or a pad, anything that will help to make a perfect right angle.

    4. Several sheets of tracing paper for developing designs.

    5. A yard stick.

    6. A French curve for armholes, etc. This may be dispensed with if it cannot be obtained.

    7. Tape measure.

    8. Pins.

    9. The chart with measurements listed.

    10. Unbleached muslin or any used similar material.

    11. Drawing and cutting table. If no other table is available, use the dining or kitchen table.

    12. Scissors.

    The first pattern to be drafted, to learn the rudiments of pattern making in its simplest form, is a simple waist. It is a plain two-piece waist with normal shoulders, normal armscye, and high round neckline, with only fullness added to give the necessary amount of ease. This will be a basic pattern, from which may be developed different types of shirtwaists with different structural lines, all types of sleeves and necklines to suit individual needs and the material of which the garment is to be made, waistcoats, jerkins, basque waists, then on to jackets with lapels and skirts of all kinds

    So that each step will be readily understood, the same measurements are used throughout. These are not according to any particular size, and belong to an average young adult.

    A flat pattern to actual scale is developed first. As was explained when taking measurements, only two dimensions are used; height or length, which are the perpendicular measurements, and the width or breadth, which are the horizontal measurements. Naturally, the roundness or depth is not seen.

    That which is seen directly in front is called the front elevation, and that which is seen directly at the back is the back elevation. The average side elevation extends from the curve of the front armscye to the curve of the back armscye. Naturally, the side elevation for a stout figure appears wider and extends beyond the armscye to the bust in front, and beyond the armscye at the back.

    CHART OF MEASUREMENTS

    NOTE.—Measurements taken as prescribed in Chapter 5.

    NOTE.—No garment is ever made the same as the actual bust measurement. Allowances for ease and movement are necessary. It will be seen from the chart that the bust measurement is 33 inches, while the across the back measurement is 18 inches, and the front bust measurement is 19 inches, making a total of 37 inches.

    All garments should fit easily at all times. In a very fitted upper garment, this fullness may be fitted out slightly, but at least 2 to 3 inches more than the actual bust measurement should be left for ease.

    BASIC PATTERN FOR WAIST FROM GIVEN MEASUREMENTS

    This method is suitable for both women and children.

    The drawing is made to the exact scale of the individual measurements.

    One piece

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