Retail Fashion Manufacturing and Technology
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About this ebook
The book outlines the fundamental principles and mechanisms that are applied in fashion retailing from end to end with focus on the technological and manufacturing aspects that are relevant and covers both fabric and garment construction as well as how the key stakeholders roles and processes intertwine to deliver the product from origination to the customer's shopping basket
Charles Nesbitt
CHARLES NESBITT graduated with a degree in Economics specialising in Business Economics from Stellenbosch University, South Africa. He spent thirty five years at a leading retailer in Southern Africa where he was exposed to all the key disciplines of retailing during this period.
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Retail Fashion Manufacturing and Technology - Charles Nesbitt
Retail Fashion Manufacturing and Technology
by
Charles Nesbitt
Copyright ©2016 by Charles Nesbitt. All rights reserved.
Copyright and ISBN page
This eBook is licensed for your personal use only. This eBook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you’re reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to your favourite eBook retailer and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.
Also by Charles Nesbitt
FUNDAMENTALS FOR SUCCESSFUL AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION BUYING AND MERCHANDISING
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FUNDAMENTALS FOR FASHION RETAIL STRATEGY PLANNING AND IMPLEMENTATION
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FUNDAMENTALS FOR FASHION RETAIL ARITHMETIC, ASSORTMENT PLANNING AND TRADING
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FUNDAMENTALS OF FASHION RETAIL, TECHNOLOGY, MANUFACTURING AND SUPPLIER MANAGEMENT
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THE COMPLETE JOURNAL OF FASHION RETAIL BUYING AND MERCHANDISING
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RETAIL FASHION ARITHMETIC
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RETAIL FASHION PROCUREMENT TEAM ROLES AND PROCESSES
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RETAIL FASHION ASSORTMENT MERCHANDISE PLANNING AND TRADING
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RETAIL FASHION SCENARIO AND STRATEGY PLANNING
PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
Retailing
The retail players
THEPROCUREMENTTEAM
Designers
Buyers
Merchandisers
Technology
TECHNOLOGY
Quality
Innovation
Social and environmental responsibilities
Safety
Fabric Technology
Fibres
Yarns
Yarn counts
Sewing threads
Fabric
Fabric weight
Knitted fabrics
Single Jersey fabrics
Rib fabrics
Interlock fabrics
Warp knits versus weft knits
Woven fabrics
Processing options
Dyeing
Printing
Finishing
Testing requirements
PRODUCTION
Drawing or sketch
Basic block
Working pattern
Sample making
Costing
Production pattern
Grading
Marker making
Fabric spread
Cutting
Bundling
Sewing
Ironing and finishing
Inspection
Packing
Cartons
Sampling stages
Production systems
Quick response manufacturing
PACKAGING TECHNOLOGY
CRITICAL PATH MANAGEMENT
QUALITY MANAGEMENT
CONCLUSION
PREFACE
The process of buying and selling in some form or other of goods has been with us since time immemorial. Often when one stands in bewilderment in an elegant shopping mall and wonder how all the stores are able to effectively seduce the many shoppers trawling the wide corridors to readily part with their well-earned money while at the same time enabling them to possibly enjoy a wonderful social experience.
The plan of offering goods to the potential customer is a complicated one and is a science that involves many players whose individual contributions slot seamlessly together and are so perfectly co-ordinated that it provides the perception that it is the result of one individual concerted effort.
It will be illustrated as to how the relationships of the major functions that intertwine from the conceptualisation of a product through to the presentation of a finished garment to the potential customer with particular focus on the technological and manufacturing aspects and in doing this demonstrates how the key areas such as buying, merchandising, technology, production, design, logistics and selling each with their unique specialised operations manage to achieve this.
The book endeavours to try and outline the basic key principles and mechanisms by which this happens and should be helpful to students, people in retailing and those who are maybe considering a career in the industry. For those who already are part of the fashion buying and merchandising community this book will be beneficial in that it provides a complete simplified overview of all the integral activities and roles that go to make up the topic and thereby will provide a broader insight into their own career.
The material of the book, other than that specifically referenced is the result of the author’s own exposure to the subject during a career spanning thirty five years at a major retail organisation in Southern Africa, the support from colleagues, mentors, interaction with suppliers and own research. There has been some cross referencing to other books or technical material but the book focuses largely at a higher level on the key principles, concepts and theories and hence there is none or very little mention of retailers by name or technological packages for some key activities such as planning, allocating, critical path management, logistics and the like.
INTRODUCTION
Retailing
Retailing is the offer of goods or services for sale by individuals or businesses to an end user. The channels by which these goods reach the final user may vary considerably and arrive via different sources such as wholesalers, trading houses or directly from the manufacturer and there are equally many differing variants in the way the goods are put on sale. Historically it is more likely that shopping would have been done at the village or town market, in a high street shop or at the mom and pop
store which evolved over time into mass retailing stores that are often housed in shopping malls supported by smaller line shops.
More recently with the advent of the computer utilising various platforms such as the internet or social networks, shopping on line is growing exponentially using electronic payment methods with delivery via the post or with a courier man knocking on the front door of the customer bearing their purchase relatively shortly after the transaction has been processed.
The products that are put on offer will be determined by the demand to satisfy a need in the market place. Broadly the merchandise may be categorized into food stuffs, hard or durable goods such as appliances, furniture and electronics and soft goods that have a limited life span typically clothing, apparel and fabrics. Whatever the nature of the product, the key objective will be to acquire and sell the product at a price that will be more than it cost to bring it to the place of offer and thereby make a profit.
Supporting activities such as the storage, movement of the goods, technology, and marketing will endeavour to ensure that the form, function and profit objective is maximised.
In an effort to put in perspective the activities and interaction between the various functional players and their dependency and integration with each other for the end to end process of the product workflow is broadly depicted in the diagram below
The distinction between supply chain and value chain should be clarified in that it is frequently misunderstood and the interpretation is varied.
Simply put, supply chain is the processes and activities that take place from conceptualisation of styles through to the procurement of raw materials and production process to the logistical operations and the eventual delivery to the end