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    Lonely Planet West Africa
    Lonely Planet West Africa
    Lonely Planet West Africa
    Ebook1,382 pages12 hours

    Lonely Planet West Africa

    By Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Michael Grosberg and

    3.5/5

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    About this ebook

    Lonely Planet West Africa is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore the Senegalese music scene in Dakar, sun yourself in the coastal para

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLonely Planet
    Release dateSep 1, 2017
    ISBN9781787012462
    Lonely Planet West Africa
    Author

    Anthony Ham

    Anthony Ham es un fotógrafo y escritor independiente especializado en España, el sur y este de África, el Ártico y Oriente Medio que colabora con periódicos y revistas de Australia, Gran Bretaña y EEUU. En el 2001, tras años de recorrer mundo, se enamoró perdidamente de Madrid en su primera visita, y antes de un año estaba de vuelta con un billete solo de ida, sin hablar nada de español y sin conocer a nadie en la ciudad. Cuando 10 años más tarde por fin dejó la capital de España, hablaba español con acento madrileño, se había casado con una lugareña y Madrid se había convertido en su segundo hogar. De nuevo en Australia, Anthony sigue recorriendo el mundo en busca de historias.

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      Book preview

      Lonely Planet West Africa - Anthony Ham

      West Africa

      Contents

      Plan Your Trip

      Welcome to West Africa

      West Africa's Top 17

      Need to Know

      If You Like

      Month by Month

      Itineraries

      Countries at a Glance

      On The Road

      Benin

      Benin Highlights

      Cotonou

      Southern Benin

      Route des Peches

      Porto Novo

      Ouidah

      Grand Popo

      Possotome & Lake Aheme

      Abomey

      Northern Benin

      The Atakora Region

      Parc National de la Pendjari

      Understand Benin

      Benin Today

      History

      People of Benin

      Religion

      The Arts

      Food & Drink

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Burkina Faso

      Burkina Faso Highlights

      Ouagadougou

      The Southwest

      Bobo-Dioulasso

      Banfora

      Sindou Peaks

      Gaoua & Lobi Country

      The South

      Reserve de Nazinga

      Tiebele & Kassena Country

      Understand Burkina Faso

      Burkina Faso Today

      History

      People of Burkina Faso

      Religion

      The Arts

      Food & Drink

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Cabo Verde

      Cabo Verde Highlights

      Santiago

      Praia

      Cidade Velha

      Rui Vaz

      Tarrafal

      Sao Vicente

      Mindelo

      Calhau

      Santo Antao

      Porto Novo

      Ponta do Sol

      Ribeira Grande

      Paul

      Tarrafal (Santo Antao)

      Fogo

      Sao Filipe

      Cha das Caldeiras

      Sal

      Santa Maria

      Espargos

      Boa Vista

      Other Islands

      Brava

      Maio

      Sao Nicolau

      Understand Cabo Verde

      Cabo Verde Today

      History

      Culture

      People

      Religion

      Music

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Cameroon

      Cameroon Highlights

      Yaounde

      Western Cameroon

      Douala

      Buea

      Limbe

      Bamenda

      The Ring Road

      Bafoussam

      Foumban

      Bandjoun

      Southern Cameroon

      Kribi

      Ebolowa

      Campo

      Ebodje

      Eastern Cameroon

      Bertoua

      Understand Cameroon

      Cameroon Today

      History

      Culture

      Food & Drink

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Cote d'Ivoire

      Cote d'Ivoire Highlights

      Abidjan

      The Eastern Beaches

      Grand Bassam

      Assinie

      The West Coast

      Sassandra

      San Pedro

      The Centre

      Yamoussoukro

      The North

      Man

      Parc National de Tai

      Understand Cote d'Ivoire

      Cote d'Ivoire Today

      History

      Arts & Crafts

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Equatorial Guinea

      Equatorial Guinea Highlights

      Bioko Island

      Malabo

      Ureca

      Rio Muni

      Bata

      Rio Campo

      Cogo

      Isla Corisco

      Monte Alen National Park

      Understand Equatorial Guinea

      Equatorial Guinea Today

      History

      People of Equatorial Guinea

      Arts & Crafts

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      The Gambia

      The Gambia Highlights

      Banjul

      Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

      Western Gambia

      Abuko Nature Reserve

      Makasutu Culture Forest

      Tanji

      Brufut

      Gunjur

      Lower Gambia River

      Albreda, Juffureh & Kunta Kinteh Island

      Baobolong Wetland Reserve & Kiang West National Park

      Basse Santa Su

      River Gambia National Park

      Sanyang

      Wassu Stone Circles

      Understand Gambia

      Gambia Today

      History

      People

      Arts & Craft

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Ghana

      Ghana Highlights

      Accra

      Volta Region

      Amedzofe

      Tafi Atome & Tafi Abuipe

      Wli Falls

      The Coast

      Kokrobite

      Anomabu

      Cape Coast

      Kakum National Park

      Elmina

      Takoradi

      Axim

      Busua

      Akwidaa & Cape Three Points

      The Centre

      Kumasi

      Lake Bosumtwe & Abono

      The North

      Tamale

      Mole National Park

      Bolgatanga

      The Northwest

      Wa

      Understand Ghana

      Ghana Today

      History

      People of Ghana

      Religion

      The Arts

      Survival Guide

      Guinea

      Guinea Highlights

      Conakry

      Iles de Los

      Fouta Djalon

      Mamou

      Dalaba

      Mali-Yemberem

      Forest Region

      Kissidougou

      Nzerekore

      Bossou

      Parc National du Haut Niger

      Understand Guinea

      Guinea Today

      History

      Survival Guide

      Guinea-Bissau

      Guinea-Bissau Highlights

      Bissau

      Arquipelago dos Bijagos

      Ilha de Bolama

      Ilha de Bubaque

      Ilha de Orango

      Ilha Joao Vieira

      The Northwest

      Quinhamel

      Varela

      The South

      Parque Natural das Lagoas de Cufada

      Parque Nacional de Cantanhez

      Understand Guinea-Bissau

      Guinea-Bissau Today

      History

      People

      Arts & Crafts

      Survival Guide

      Liberia

      Liberia Highlights

      Monrovia

      The Coast

      Marshall

      Robertsport

      Buchanan

      The Southeast

      Zwedru

      Harper

      Understand Liberia

      Liberia Today

      History

      Culture

      People

      Arts & Crafts

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Mali

      Understand Mali

      Mali Today

      History

      Culture

      People of Mali

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Mauritania

      Mauritania Highlights

      Nouakchott

      Atlantic Coast

      Nouadhibou

      Parc National du Banc d'Arguin

      The Adrar

      Understand Mauritania

      Mauritania Today

      History

      Culture

      People

      Arts & Crafts

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Niger

      Understand Niger

      Niger Today

      History

      Culture

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Nigeria

      Nigeria Highlights

      Lagos

      Southern Nigeria

      Abeokuta

      Ibadan

      Oshogbo

      Benin City

      Calabar

      Northern Nigeria

      Abuja

      Understand Nigeria

      Nigeria Today

      History

      Culture

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Sao Tome & Principe

      Sao Tome & Principe Highlights

      Sao Tome

      Sao Tome (City)

      Northern Coast

      Southern Coast

      Ilheu das Rolas

      Interior

      Principe

      Santo Antonio

      Understand Sao Tome & Principe

      Sao Tome & Principe Today

      History

      The People

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Senegal

      Senegal Highlights

      Dakar

      Around Dakar

      Ile de Goree

      Petite Cote & Sine-Saloum Delta

      Mbour & Saly

      Palmarin

      Toubakouta & Missirah

      Toubab Dialaw

      Northern Senegal

      Saint-Louis

      Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj

      Central Senegal

      Tambacounda

      Parc National de Niokolo-Koba

      Casamance

      Ziguinchor

      Cap Skirring

      Understand Senegal

      Senegal Today

      History

      People & Culture

      Survival Guide

      Sierra Leone

      Sierra Leone Highlights

      Freetown

      Freetown Peninsula

      Banana Islands

      River No 2

      Tokeh Beach

      Bunce Island

      The North

      Makeni

      Mt Bintumani

      Outamba-Kilimi National Park

      The South

      Bo

      Turtle Islands

      Tiwai Island

      Gola Rainforest National Park

      Understand Sierra Leone

      Sierra Leone Today

      History

      Culture

      Survival Guide

      Togo

      Togo Highlights

      Lome

      Southern Togo

      Lac Togo

      Aneho

      Kpalime

      Atakpame

      Northern Togo

      Kara

      Koutammakou

      Dapaong

      Sokode

      Understand Togo

      Togo Today

      History

      People

      Religion

      Arts & Culture

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Understand

      Understand West Africa

      West Africa Today

      History

      Culture & Daily Life

      Literature & Cinema

      Religion

      Music

      Arts & Craftwork

      Peoples of West Africa

      Environment

      Survive

      Safe Travel

      Common Dangers

      Region by Region

      Directory AZ

      Accommodation

      Activities

      Children

      Electricity

      Embassies & Consulates

      Etiquette

      GLBTI Travellers

      Internet Access

      Legal Matters

      Maps

      Money

      Opening Hours

      Post

      Telephone

      Time

      Toilets

      Tourist Information

      Travellers with Disabilities

      Visas

      Volunteering

      Women Travellers

      Transport

      Getting There & Away

      Getting Around

      Health

      Before You Go

      In West Africa

      In Transit

      Language

      Behind the Scenes

      Our Writers

      Welcome to West Africa

      West Africa has cachet and soul. Home to African landscapes of our imaginations and inhabited by an astonishing diversity of traditional peoples, this is Africa as it once was.

      African Landscapes

      From the Sahara to tropical rainforests, from volcanic outcrops to stony depressions in the desert's heart, West Africa is an extraordinary sweep of iconic African terrain. There are many West African views that will define your journey: an oasis-like clearing in the heart of a rainforest; stirring sand dunes sculpted to perfection by the wind; a gloriously deserted arc of sand along a gloriously deserted coastline; and improbably shaped rocky outcrops in the heart of the Sahel. And through it all runs one of Africa's longest rivers, the Niger.

      African Peoples

      The mosaic of peoples who inhabit West Africa is one of the region's most beguiling characteristics. The sheer number of peoples who call the region home will take your breath away. Drawing in a little nearer, you'll discover that traditions survive in West Africa like nowhere else on the continent, revealing themselves in fabulous festivals, irresistible music and the mysterious world of masks and secret societies. These are peoples whose histories are epic and whose daily struggles are similarly so. West Africa is in-your-face, full-volume Lagos or the quiet solitude of an indigo-clad nomad – not to mention everything in between.

      A Musical Soundtrack

      West Africa's musical tradition is one of extraordinary depth and richness. Youssou N'Dour, Tinariwen and other musicians may have been 'discovered' in recent decades, but the region's music is so much more than mere performance. The griots of ancient African empires – Mali's master kora player Toumani Diabaté is a 71st-generation griot – bestowed upon West Africa's musicians the gift of storytelling as much as the power to entertain. They do both exceptionally well and their ability to make you dance or learn something new about the region may just rank among your most memorable travel experiences.

      Secret Wildlife

      You wouldn't come to West Africa looking for an East African–style safari, but there's more to West Africa's wildlife than initially meets the eye if you know where to look, including elephants, primates, big cats, pygmy hippos and some of the world's best birdwatching. And unlike East or Southern Africa, you're likely to have whatever you find all to yourself.

      Grande Mosquée, Bobo-Dioulasso, Burkina Faso | Dietmar Temps/Shutterstock ©

      Why I Love West Africa

      By Anthony Ham, Writer

      On my first journey into West Africa, I felt like I was visiting another planet, and I loved it. It was the cooling sand beneath my feet as I shared a campfire with Tuareg nomads in the Sahara, or a dawn glimpse of paradise at a bend in the river deep in the Cameroonian rainforest. It was dancing the night away in the bars of Bamako or Dakar, or the silence of the Sahelian night. And no matter how many times I return, I never lose that sense of having wandered into some kind of otherworldly African fairy tale.

      West Africa's Top 17

      Cap Skirring, Senegal

      Take a pirogue (traditional canoe) from busy fishing village Elinkine and hop over to Île de Karabane; a French trading station in the 19th century, it still boasts a Breton-style church with ancient pews, and you can sip palm wine on the island’s peaceful beaches. Check into a room with a view of the waves gently lapping at the sand or, better yet, venture out on a fishing or kayaking expedition from Cap Skirring, followed by a dose of live music and dancing barefoot with abandon under a star-filled sky.

      Traditional canoe | BSIP/Getty Images ©

      Top Experiences

      Gambian Coast

      Gambia’s Atlantic Coast is peppered with oodles of flashy resorts, and while the country may be one of Africa's smallest, it's amazing how much it crams into such a small space. Birdwatching and wildlife are definite highlights among numerous options, but nothing beats drifting past river islands and exploring superb nature sanctuaries like Bijilo Forest Park, where you can observe monkeys, monitor lizards and over 100 bird species.

      Vervet | Lidia fotografie/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Ghana's Slave Coast

      No matter how well versed you are in the history of the slave trade, nothing can prepare you for the experience of visiting Ghana’s slave forts. Standing in the damp dungeons or being shut in the pitch-black punishment cells will chill your blood, and the wreaths and messages left by those whose forebears went through the ordeal are poignant. Cape Coast Castle is one of the largest and best-preserved forts but there are many smaller ones along the coast too, which tell the same sorry tale.

      Cape Coast Castle, Ghana | Felix Lipov/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Mole National Park, Ghana

      West Africa is no match for East and Southern Africa’s national parks but it does have more wildlife than many imagine. Mole is a prime example of this stunning diversity. Famed for the large herds of elephant that wander the saffron savannah, the park is also home to antelopes, warthogs, monkeys, crocodiles and thousands of birds, all of which you’ll be able to see at a fraction of the cost of a ‘traditional’ safari. Both the park’s hotels have pools, perfect for whiling away the midday hours between morning and afternoon wildlife excursions.

      Mole National Park, Ghana | Trevor Kittelty/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Ring Road, Cameroon

      Deep in Cameroon’s Anglophone northwest, the so-called Ring Road is a grassland area of unparalleled natural beauty, boasting rushing chocolate-coloured rivers, soaring hilltops, lush forests and small, traditional fondoms (kingdoms ruled by traditional chiefs known as fons) where foreigners are rarely seen. The area is great for hiking, though it's best explored with your own wheels, as local public transport is extremely infrequent. Be aware that the ‘ring road’ itself is most of the time little more than a dirt track – don’t attempt to come here in the rainy season!

      Ring Road, Cameroon | Fabian Plock/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Sindou Peaks, Burkina Faso

      Nature’s work of art, the otherworldly rock formations of Sindou Peaks are a sight to behold. Cast against the darkening sky of a brewing storm or the lush paddy fields of the plains below, they are one of Burkina’s great signature landscapes. Trekking is the best way to explore this natural wonder, although there will be plenty of wonderful photo opportunities on the drive there. Local guides organise sunrise breakfasts at a particularly scenic spot, an experience that will likely be the highlight of your trip.

      Sindou Peaks, Burkina Faso | Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Freetown Beaches, Sierra Leone

      Freetown’s long peninsula is lined with sun-drenched beaches that you’ll find hard to leave. Begin with the famous River No 2 for calm, clear waters and up-river mangrove trips – and when the high tide hits, boat across to Tokeh Sands, whose forest-backed sweep of fine white sand is probably the most spectacular of them all. Then there's surfing at Bureh Beach and wine-fuelled lobster dinners at Sussex Beach, while John Obey Beach and Black Johnson Beach will take you far off the beaten track.

      Freetown beaches, Sierra Leone | robertonencini/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Atakora Region, Benin

      Northwestern Benin is dominated by the rugged landscapes of the Atakora mountains. There’s a lot to love about this area: the captivating culture and traditions of the animist Betamaribé people, the eye-catching architecture of the tata somba houses (round-tiered huts), and utterly beautiful hills that offer plenty of breathtaking panoramas. It’s still a secretive world with a peculiar appeal, and it begs exploration. You can base yourself in Natitingou or, even better, stay in villages.

      Elder smoking a pipe, Benin | De Agostini/Getty Images ©

      Top Experiences

      Santo Antão, Cabo Verde

      From long lonely walks through lush valleys to strenuous treks along craggy peaks and remote ravines, the dramatic island of Santo Antão is a hiker's paradise. Set aside at least three full days: first tackle its classic hikes, like the sharp descent along the cobbled path from the Cova crater to Paúl valley, and then set out to explore the island’s uncharted western section. Get a good map, stock up on local advice and hire a guide for the more demanding treks.

      Santo Antão, Cabo Verde | Arterra/Getty Images ©

      Top Experiences

      Kpalimé, Togo

      Itchy feet? Consider exploring the Kpalimé area, which offers lots of hiking opportunities amid stunning scenery. With its lush forested hills, numerous waterfalls and profusion of butterflies, it is a walking heaven and possibly West Africa's premier hiking terrain. Good news: most walks are suitable for all levels of fitness.Tackle Mt Agou (986m) or Mt Klouto (710m) with a knowledgable local guide, who’ll give you the lowdown on local fauna and flora and show you the highlights.

      Boy holding a locust, Kpalimé, Togo | Godong/Getty Images ©

      Top Experiences

      Dakar, Senegal

      Hit West Africa’s trendiest nightlife venues and swing your hips to mbalax, the mix of Cuban beats and traditional drumming that forms the heart and soul of the Senegalese music scene. Relax with a lazy day at the beach and feast on fresh-off-the-boat seafood, or explore the workshops of Senegal’s most promising artists at the Village des Arts. Finally, climb up one of Dakar’s 'breasts' to contemplate the controversial, socialist-style African Renaissance monument and take in sweeping views across the city.

      Dakar, Senegal | Salvador Aznar/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Arquipélago dos Bijagós, Guinea-Bissau

      Like Atlantis or Treasure Island, the Bijagós is such a magical archipelago that you might wonder if it's fictional. Its 88 islands fall away from the mainland in an ocean-imposed constellation that would take light years to navigate. With two or three weeks on your hands, you could start in Bubaque or Bolama. From there, you might head to Orango to spot the salty sea hippos, or throw your luggage into a speedboat and make for the luxury lodges on Kere or Rubane.

      Arquipélago dos Bijagós, Guinea-Bissau | Damian Pankowiec/Shutterstock ©

      Top Experiences

      Grand Bassam, Côte d'Ivoire

      Arty Grand Bassam is everything its neighbour Abidjan is not: gentle, quiet and unassuming. Yet it's teeming with creative endeavours, from local street-art initiatives to wild horseback rides on the golden sands. It makes an easy weekend trip from the economic capital – only 40 minutes away by car, you'll have plenty of time to take in the old French architecture, art market and cosy terrace restaurants.

      Woman at mask stall, Grand Bassam, Côte d’Ivoire | Connie Coleman/Getty Images ©

      Top Experiences

      Sapo National Park, Liberia

      For years, Liberia's Sapo National Park – baked between skinny red roads and clandestine gold mines – was off-limits to travellers. Now its towering trees, rare flora and unusual inhabitants – like the secretive pygmy hippo – are ready to be discovered. But that doesn't mean a trip to Sapo is easy. Prepare to tackle Liberia's bumpiest roads on the 12-hour drive there, where you'll have to bed down beneath the stars until plans to build an ecolodge come to fruition.

      Duiker, Sapo National Park, Liberia | FLPA/Alamy Stock Photo ©

      Top Experiences

      Baía das Agulhas, São Tomé & Príncipe

      The magnificent Baía das Agulhas on Príncipe is easily the top sight in the country. As you travel across the bay by boat, the postcard view of the island's world-class skyline slowly unfolds. This includes a series of phonolite towers, huge peaks of raw volcanic rock dripping with jungle and steaming in the mist. You almost expect to hear the primordial roar of a T-Rex at any moment. It's a glorious spot, and there's ample reason why this could just be Africa's next big ecotourism destination.

      Baía das Agulhas, São Tomé & Príncipe | John Seaton Callahan/Getty Images ©

      Top Experiences

      Ureca, Equatorial Guinea

      Perched on the southern tip of Bioko Island, Ureca is the jewel in the crown of Equatorial Guinea. This tiny village is one of the wettest places on earth. It is surrounded by the dense rainforest of Bioko Sur, which teems with animals including the rare red colobus monkey. There’s a fabulous array of birds, waterfalls cascade down caldera walls, and four species of marine turtles come to lay their eggs on its pristine black-sand beaches between September and April.

      Aerial view of rainforest, Bioko Island, Equatorial Guinea | Tim Laman/Alamy Stock Photo ©

      Top Experiences

      Calabar, Nigeria

      A relaxed river port, Calabar is the antidote to Nigeria’s customary clamour. Located in green and gorgeous Cross River state, this is one of Nigeria’s more agreeable towns, combining an intriguing colonial history with a fabulous hilltop location. Calabar’s proximity to the extraordinary biodiversity of the Cameroon–Nigeria border region finds expression in one of the most innovative conservation projects in West Africa. Put it all together and it’s the kind of place that you’ll leave with a backpack full of memories that trump just about every stereotype about Nigeria.

      Market stall holder, Calabar, Nigeria | Seth Lazar/Alamy Stock Photo ©

      Need to Know

      Currency

      West African CFA franc (eight countries), Central African CFA franc (four countries) and nine other currencies.

      Mobile Phone

      Local SIM cards widely available, compatible with. European and Australian phones.

      Money

      Cash is king. Don’t bring anything except euros in former French, Portuguese or Spanish colonies, while US dollars are preferred in Anglophone countries.

      Time

      All GMT/UTC except Cabo Verde (one hour behind) and Benin, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Niger and Nigeria (one hour ahead)

      Visas

      The general rule for West Africa is to get your visas before leaving home. They’re rarely issued at land borders and only occasionally at airports.

      When to Go

      High Season (Nov–Mar)

      A Generally cooler temperatures and dry weather make getting around easy.

      A Atlantic coast beaches packed with European sunbathers from December to March.

      A December and January are prime time for trekking and good for Congo wildlife.

      Shoulder (Apr–May)

      A Temperatures begin to rise across the Sahel.

      A May can be unbearably hot in the Sahara; dry season begins in the tropical south.

      A Rains can arrive in May and humidity is very high along the coast.

      Low Season (Jun–Oct)

      A High humidity and heavy rains in coastal countries; many roads are impassable.

      A Many wildlife reserves in the north are closed to visitors.

      A Extreme temperatures in the Sahara and Sahel, but dry conditions in the tropical south.

      Useful Websites

      Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

      Travel Africa (www.travelafricamag.com) Excellent print magazine on Africa; articles on West Africa thinly scattered.

      Sahara Overland (www.sahara-overland.com) The best practical guide for travellers to the Sahara, with useful forums, route information and book reviews.

      Africa Geographic (www.africageographic.com) Nature-focused Africa online mag with good wildlife and birdwatching content.

      BBC News (www.bbcnews.com/africa) Good for up-to-the-minute news from Africa.

      Ecowas (www.ecowas.int) The official site of the Economic Community of West African States (Ecowas), with a few useful links.

      Important Numbers

      Emergency numbers differ from one country to the next. Some have a general emergency number, others have separate numbers for police, fire and ambulance services.

      Currencies

      Benin, Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Togo (West African CFA)

      Cameroon and Equatorial Guinea (Central African CFA)

      Cabo Verde (escudo; CVE)

      The Gambia (dalasi; D)

      Ghana (cedi; C)

      Guinea (Guinean franc; GF)

      Liberia (Liberian dollar; L$)

      Mauritania (ouguiya; UM)

      Nigeria (naira; N)

      São Tomé & Príncipe (dobra; Db)

      Sierra Leone (Leone; Le)

      Daily Costs

      Budget: Less than US$75

      A Dorm bed: US$10

      A Double room in budget hotel: up to US$50

      A Main course in cheap local restaurant: less than US$5

      Midrange: US$75–200

      A Double room in midrange hotel: US$50–150

      A Main course in midrange restaurant: US$5–10

      A Long-distance bus rides: from US$15

      Top end: More than US$200

      A Double room in top-end hotel: more than US$150

      A Car hire: at least US$100 per day and sometimes more, plus petrol

      Arriving in West Africa

      Murtala Muhammed International Airport (Lagos, Nigeria) No public transport from the international terminal; licensed airport taxis (N6000) can be booked from the arrivals hall; get a local to meet you.

      Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport (Dakar, Senegal) No public transport; taxis outside arrivals hall cost CFA5000 to the city centre.

      Kotoka International Airport (Accra, Ghana) A taxi from the airport to the city centre should cost no more than C30.

      If You Like…

      Wildlife

      West Africa is an underrated wildlife destination and its little-known national parks host more African mega-fauna than they do tourists.They can be difficult to reach, but worth it for sheer isolation.

      São Tomé & Príncipe Ecotourism heaven offering fabulous marine-mammal experiences, including turtles, whales and dolphins.

      Monte Alen National Park, Equatorial Guinea Gorillas, chimpanzees, mandrills and bush elephants.

      Mole National Park, Ghana Almost 100 mammal species, savannah and good for elephants.

      Parc National de la Pendjari, Benin Big cats and elephants in one of West Africa's best parks.

      Parc National de Niokolo-Koba, Senegal ( GOOGLE MAP h7am-6pm) Elephants, crocs and hippos, with river tours and an accessible waterhole.

      Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, Sierra Leone ( GOOGLE MAP %076-755146; www.tiwaiisland.org) Rare pygmy hippos and plenty of primate species.

      Réserve de Nazinga, Burkina Faso Some of the best elephant-watching in West Africa.

      Hippo, Parc National de Niokolo-Koba, Senegal | evenfh/Shutterstock ©

      Beaches

      From Senegal to Cameroon, the West African coast includes some of the continent's most pristine stretches of sand. Whether you opt for a popular resort or a palm-fringed beach all to yourself, it's all here.

      Isla Corisco, Equatorial Guinea Beaches here are the stuff of dreams: pure white sands, swaying palms and azure sea.

      Ilhéu das Rolas, São Tomé & Príncipe A world unto itself, with blowholes, sea caves, snorkelling, hiking and some beautiful beaches.

      Banana Beach, São Tomé & Príncipe This picture-perfect, banana-shaped tropical beach has golden sands and swaying palms.

      Praia de Santa Mónica, Cabo Verde Bask in the aquamarine waters of Boa Vista's stunning southern coastline.

      Akwidaa & Cape Three Points, Ghana Sweeping beaches, trips through plantations and mangroves, and, in season, turtles nesting in the sand.

      Varela, Guinea-Bissau Wide, beautiful and with few visitors; some days you can see all the way to Senegal.

      Cap Skirring, Senegal The coastal jewel of Casamance, with some of Senegal's loveliest beaches.

      Robertsport, Liberia A cult classic for surfers and a world-class beach destination in waiting.

      Route des Pêches, Benin Chill out on the endless beaches along the Beninese coast.

      Resort on Ilhéu das Rolas, São Tomé | Bezidroglio/Shutterstock ©

      Untouched Landscapes

      West Africa's wilderness areas rank among the continent's best-kept secrets, including the offshore archipelagos of Guinea-Bissau and rainforests from Sierra Leone to Cameroon.

      Arquipélago dos Bijagós, Guinea-Bissau One of the world's most beautiful chains of offshore islands, with endangered wildlife.

      Reserva Natural de Rio Campo, Equatorial Guinea Hippos swim in the river estuary in this deserted nature reserve.

      Parc National de Campo-Ma'an, Cameroon A precursor to the vast rainforests of Central Africa.

      Sindou Peaks, Burkina Faso Rock formations in southwestern Burkina that might just be the most beautiful place in the Sahel.

      Outamba-Kilimi National Park, Sierra Leone Remote savannah interspersed with dense rainforest.

      Siné-Saloum Delta, Senegal Splendid network of mangroves best explored in a wooden canoe.

      Sapo National Park, Liberia Primary rainforest rich in wildlife and far from well-trodden trails.

      Hiking

      West Africa's trekking trails take you beyond the stereotypes and deep into an extraordinary human and natural landscape.

      Sindou Peaks, Burkina Faso Otherworldly rock formations and intriguing cultural backdrop in Burkina's southwest.

      Kpalimé, Togo Outstanding hiking amid lush, forested hills in the heart of coffee country.

      Mt Cameroon Two- to three-day hike to the summit of West Africa's highest peak.

      Santo Antão, Cabo Verde Spectacular canyons, cloud-soaked peaks and vertigo-inspiring drops – what more could you need?

      Amedzofe, Ghana Fabulous, little-known trails with a waterfall in Ghana's east.

      Pico de São Tomé, São Tomé & Príncipe This impressive peak (2024m) is São Tomé's signature climb and a wonderful two-day adventure.

      Month by Month

      Top Events

      Voodoo Festival, January

      Fêtes des Masques, February

      Fespaco, February/March

      Mardi Gras, March

      Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, May

      January

      West Africa’s high season (except in the tropical south), with cooler, dry weather and many fine festivals; watch for the arrival of dust-laden harmattan winds late in the north and sea turtles in the south.

      z Voodoo Festival

      Held on 10 January across Benin; the celebrations in the voodoo heartland around Ouidah are the largest and most exuberant.

      3 Festival Sur Le Niger

      Mali’s premier music festival (www.festivalsegou.org) draws a cast of world-renowned local and international musicians to the Niger riverbank in Ségou in late January or early February. Check the security situation before travelling.

      2 Race of Hope

      In late January/early February Cameroonian and international athletes gather for the Race of Hope to the summit of Mt Cameroon, West Africa’s highest peak.

      February

      February is high season in the north; book accommodation well in advance. The relatively cool, dry weather makes for good hiking. Last chance for bearable temperatures in the Sahel and to see sea turtles down south.

      z Carnival

      West Africa’s former Portuguese colonies celebrate Carnival (sometimes spelt Carnaval) with infectious zeal. Bissau – with its Latin-style street festival of masks, parties and parades – or Cabo Verde are the places to be, while Porto Novo in Benin also gets into the spirit. Sometimes in January, sometimes March.

      z Fêtes des Masques

      Held in the villages around Man in western Côte d’Ivoire, the region’s most significant mask festival brings together a great variety of masks and dances from the area.

      3 Fespaco

      Africa’s premier film festival is held in February/March in Ouagadougou in Burkina Faso in odd years. Cinemas across the city screen African films, and there's a prestigious awards ceremony.

      March

      March can be a bit hit or miss, although it’s still generally considered high season. Temperatures are warming up, the harmattan winds are usually blowing in the Sahel and it's raining in the south.

      z Mardi Gras

      During the Mardi Gras, held 40 days before Easter, Cabo Verde can feel like Rio. It’s a sexy, spectacular carnival-type celebration with street parades, especially in Mindelo.

      April

      By now, much of the Sahel and Sahara are too hot for comfort and the harmattan is a staple throughout the month. The humidity along the coast and hinterland is starting to get uncomfortable and in the region's south the rains set in.

      3 Jazz à Ouaga

      An established fixture on West Africa’s musical circuit, this fine festival traverses jazz, Afrobeat, soul and blues with some respected regional names in attendance.

      May

      Unbearably hot in the Sahara, unbearably humid elsewhere – it’s invariably a relief when the rains arrive. Few festivals enliven the month, but Dakar hosts a notable exception.

      3 Dak’Art Biennale

      In even years in May, Dakar hosts the Dak’Art Biennale, easily West Africa’s premier arts festival. In addition to the main exhibitions, some fabulous fringe stuff happens.

      3 Saint-Louis Jazz Festival

      Hands-down the most internationally renowned festival in West Africa, attracting major jazz performers to this sexy, Unesco Heritage–designated colonial town.

      z Roots International Festival

      The biennial Roots International Festival (hMay-Jun) celebrates the culture of The Gambia and its slaving history with music workshops, carnival parades and performances by local ethnic groups in late May and early June.

      June

      There are few reasons to visit the region at this time with the rains well and truly underway. The exceptions are Equatorial Guinea and São Tomé & Príncipe, where the dry season is only just beginning.

      July

      Rain is heavy south of the Sahara, and the festivals are aimed at a local audience. This is the dry season and the best time to go hiking or venture out into the forests of tropical West Africa, from Equatorial Guinea south.

      z Bakatue Festival

      On the first Tuesday in July, Elmina (Ghana) hosts the colourful Bakatue Festival, a joyous harvest thanksgiving feast. One of its highlights is watching the priest in the harbour waters casting a net to lift a ban on fishing in the lagoon.

      z Dagomba Fire Festival

      In the heat of Tamale in Ghana, the Dagomba Fire Festival commemorates the local legend whereby a chief was overjoyed to find his missing son asleep under a tree. Angry that the tree had hidden his son, he punished it by having it burnt.

      3 Wrestling Festival

      In Togo’s north, watch out for Evala, the coming-of-age and wrestling festival in the Kabyé region around Kara.

      August

      Europeans flock to Cabo Verde, Senegal and The Gambia; book months in advance. Elsewhere, the rains and humidity make this a difficult time for travelling, except in the far south when it's a good time to see wildlife.

      3 Festival de Música

      Every August, Mindelo’s Festival de Música in Cabo Verde attracts musicians of all styles from around the islands and way beyond. It’s wonderful fun, with a three-day extravaganza of singing, dancing and partying.

      3 Panafest

      Ghana’s Cape Coast hosts the biennial Pan-African Historical Theatre Festival (Panafest; digitalvalleygh.com/panafestghana.org), with a focus on African contemporary and traditional arts, including music, dance, fashion and theatre. Its centrepiece is a moving candlelit emancipation ceremony to honour African slaves.

      z Osun Festival

      With nary a tourist in sight, the Osun Festival takes place in Oshogbo, 86km northeast of Ibadan in Nigeria, on the last Friday in August. It has music, dancing and sacrifices, and is a highlight of the Yoruba cultural and spiritual year.

      September

      The rains should be easing off in the north. It’s a lovely time to visit the south, although the dry season is drawing to a close.

      z Fetu Afahye Festival

      Cape Coast's Fetu Afahye Festival is a raucous celebration on the first Saturday of September. The main ritual event is the slaughter of a cow for the gods.

      z La Cure Salée

      Niger’s world-famous annual celebration by Fula herders features a male beauty contest and camel races, near In-Gall. It's in the first half of September but, like most Saharan festivals, it depends on the prevailing security situation.

      z Kano Durbar & Tabaski

      West Africa’s most colourful Tabaski celebrations are those in Kano where there are cavalry processions and high ceremony. Tabaski, which takes place 69 days after Ramadan, is widely celebrated in Muslim areas, especially Niger and Cameroon, where the celebrations in Foumban are unmissable. Check security before travelling.

      z Adae Kese Festival

      Coinciding with the yam harvest season, the Adae Kese Festival in Ghana celebrates the glorious Ashanti past and involves ritual purifications of the ancestral burial shrines.

      October

      October can be a good month for travelling in the region – clear, post-rain skies make for good visibility and the high-season crowds have yet to arrive. Rains are possible in the south.

      3 Salon International de l'Artisanat de Ouagadougou

      In even-numbered years Ouagadougou's trade fair attracts artisans and vendors from all over Africa.

      3 Felabration

      The week-long celebration of Afrobeat-legend Fela Kuti in Lagos takes place around the great man’s birthday on 15 October. Concerts, theatre pieces and exhibitions culminate in a free gig at the New Afrika Shrine.

      November

      High season has just begun but the early part of the month can be surprisingly quiet. Night-time temperatures in desert regions can drop close to zero. It can be rainy in the south but watch for sea turtles in Equatorial Guinea.

      z Fête de l'Abissa

      Close to Abidjan in Côte d’Ivoire, Grand Bassam hosts the Fête de l'Abissa in October/November. Over the course of a week, the N'Zima people honour their dead and exorcise evil spirits with big street parties and men in drag.

      December

      High season is very much underway in the coastal belt immediately south of the Sahara, and you should make accommodation bookings months in advance; beach areas are particularly busy with sun-starved Europeans. Weather is mild and dry.

      z Igue Festival

      Also called the Ewere Festival, this colourful seven-day festival in Benin City, Nigeria, in the first half of the month, showcases traditional dances, mock battles and a procession to the palace to reaffirm local loyalty to the oba (king).

      Itineraries

      Best of the West

      2 Weeks

      West Africa's heartland takes in a beguiling mix of the region's dry-as-dust Sahel and its tropical coast. By following this route you'll get a taste for all that's good about the region.

      If you're wondering why Francophone Africa gets under the skin, begin in cosmopolitan Dakar to sample the outstanding Musée Théodore Monod by day and the city's vibrant nightlife after dark. After excursions to the World Heritage–listed architecture of Saint-Louis and offshore to tranquil Île de Gorée (three days in total), fly to Ouagadougou (or Ouaga to its friends) in Burkina Faso. Ouaga has excellent places to stay and eat, as well as a happening cultural scene, and is worth a full day and night at least. Take a bus to languid Bobo-Dioulasso to hang out for a couple of days and then continue on to the otherworldly Sindou Peaks, one of West Africa's most remarkable landscapes, for two days' hiking. Travel through Gaoua in the heart of Lobi country then cross into northern Ghana for some of West Africa's best wildlife-watching at Mole National Park. Depending on how long you linger, there should be just enough time to stop off in Kumasi to absorb a little Ashanti culture en route to buzzing Accra.

      Itineraries

      Atlantic Odyssey

      6 Weeks

      From Senegal to Benin, from the cusp of the Sahel in Dakar to the palm-fringed semi-tropics around Cotonou, West Africa's Atlantic coastline is one of the most varied and beautiful in Africa.

      Senegal's capital Dakar, with its African sophistication and role as regional air hub, serves both as a starting point and a base for the first part of your journey. To the north, Saint-Louis is like stepping back into pre-colonial Africa. Other Senegalese excursions include enjoying some of Africa's best birdwatching in the Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj and drifting through the Siné-Saloum Delta. You could easily spend a week or more exploring it all, before returning to Dakar to fly to the islands of Cabo Verde. With their soulful musical soundtrack, unspoilt beaches, mountainous interior and laid-back locals, Santiago, São Vicente and Santo Antão are particularly beautiful and worth at least a week of your time. Returning to Dakar, head south to The Gambia, which may be small, but its beaches, especially those around Serekunda, make a good (English-speaking) rest stop for taking time out from the African road. From sleepy Banjul, consider flying to Freetown in Sierra Leone – the nearby beaches are beautiful and utterly undeveloped. Attractions such as Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, with its fabulous wildlife concentrations, should not be missed.

      With three weeks under your belt, you could continue along the coast through Liberia and Côte d'Ivoire, but most travellers fly over them to agreeable Accra in Ghana. From there, excursions to the old coastal forts, Cape Coast Castle and stunning beaches at Kokrobite, Busua and Dixcove won't disappoint. Don't fail to detour north to Kumasi in the Ashanti heartland. After a week to 10 days in Ghana, there's plenty of onward transport to the fascinating markets and fine museum of Lomé, and don't miss an inland hiking detour around Kpalimé. Not far away is Benin, with Ouidah, the evocative former slaving port and home of voodoo, the history-rich town of Abomey and the stilt villages of Ganvié filling up your final week. Cotonou has all the steamy appeal of the tropics and is a fine place to rest at journey's end.

      Fontainhas, Santo Antão, Cabo Verde | Photography by Ulrich Hollmann/Getty Images ©

      Itineraries

      Unknown West Africa

      1 Month

      These West African trails are some of the least travelled by tourists on earth. If having a beach all to yourself while sea turtles come ashore or venturing into the frontiers of African travel is your idea of a great trip, read on.

      Begin in Nouakchott, the dry-as-dust capital of Mauritania, which has a wonderful fish market and a palpable sense of lying somewhere close to the end of the earth. An excursion north takes you along one of the planet's most deserted coastlines to the birdwatcher's paradise of Parc National du Banc d'Arguin. Three or four days after beginning your trip, head south via Dakar to catch the ferry to Ziguinchor, capital of Casamance, home to fine beaches, labyrinthine river systems and lush forests. Return to Dakar, then fly to Bissau, Guinea-Bissau's village-like capital. The Arquipélago dos Bijagós is isolated, rich in wildlife and like nowhere else on the coast – it could just be West Africa's most pristine slice of paradise.

      With around 10 days behind you, you might just be ready for Guinea. Conakry, at once sassy and muscular, is worth experiencing for some of the region's best live music, before you truly drop off the map by tracking chimps at Bossou and trekking the Fouta Djalon Highlands.

      After four or five days in Guinea, your next stop is Sierra Leone. Linger in Freetown and the nearby beaches, head inland to remote Mt Bintumani and the unknown gems of Outamba-Kilimi National Park and Gola Rainforest National Park. On your way to Liberia, stop at Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary. Begin your Liberian sojourn in Monrovia and don't miss Sapo National Park, the beaches of Robertsport and soulful Harper. Both Sierra Leone and Liberia should fill at least a week.

      From Harper, it's a short hop across the border into Côte d'Ivoire and Sassandra, a glorious fishing village with great beaches. Security permitting, head north to the rainforests of chimpanzee-rich Parc National de Taï, then on to Man in the heart of Dan country. From there, make your way to Yamoussoukro and its improbable basilica. Considering where you've been, the end of the road at Abidjan will feel like visiting another planet.

      Rustic shelter on Ilha de Bubaque, Guinea-Bissau | Damian Pankowiec/Shutterstock ©

      Fisherman on the beach at Freetown, Sierra Leone | robertonencini/Shutterstock ©

      Itineraries

      Gulf of Guinea

      5 Weeks

      From Nigeria to the Republic of Congo, this route traverses West Africa's tropical southeast. It takes in frenetic urban Lagos, West Africa's tallest mountain, the pristine natural environment of São Tomé & Príncipe, and the world-class national parks of Equatorial Guinea.

      Most visitors will encounter nothing but warmth and humour in their interactions with Nigerians. Lagos may be in-your-face, high-volume and logistically confronting, but it's also Africa's most energetic city, awash with a pulsating nightlife, clamorous markets and a resurgent arts scene. Historic Abeokuta, with its Yoruba shrines and sacred rock, Osun Sacred Grove and the Oba's Palace in Benin City are worthwhile stopovers en route to Calabar and its old colonial buildings, fish market and lovely setting. Close to Calabar, don't miss Afi Mountain Drill Ranch. Count on 10 days in Nigeria.

      From here fly east to Douala in Cameroon. After longish detours to see the sea turtles at Ebodjé and to climb Mt Cameroon, West Africa's highest peak, head for Bamenda, gateway to the villages of the Ring Road, a deeply traditional part of Cameroon; Bafut is one of our favourite villages in the region. Later, head for Foumban for a slice of traditional West Africa, and a fascinating vision of the town’s ancient and still-active sultanate. A week in Cameroon should give you a taste of the country's riches.

      Return to Douala then fly out to São Tomé & Príncipe, one of West Africa's most beautiful destinations and an emerging ecotourism hot spot. From São Tomé, fly into Malabo in Equatorial Guinea, obtain a tourist permit and set out to see the colonial architecture, rainforest and wildlife on Bioko Island, and the fabulous beaches and national parks on the mainland at Rio Muni.

      Bom Bom Resort, Príncipe, São Tomé & Príncipe | Constantino Leite/Alamy Stock Photo ©

      Street scene, Douala, Cameroon | Ammonite/Shutterstock ©

      Itineraries

      Burkina Faso, Ghana, Togo & Benin

      4 Weeks

      The four countries covered in this meandering route from Ouagadougou to Cotonou are West Africa in microcosm, and there's a perfect mix of wildlife, architecture, culture and beach indulgence to entice even the most jaded of travellers.

      Begin in cool Ouagadougou, the Burkinabé capital, then head south for two of the region's most rewarding destinations – the elephant-rich Réserve de Nazinga, and Tiébélé, with its beautifully painted traditional houses. Cross into Ghana and do some craft shopping in Bolgatanga. While you're in the north, and after five days on the road, spend some time exploring Amedzofe and the jungly Avatime Hills where the hiking is outstanding; Tafi Atome and Tafi Abuipe with their ecotourism possibilities; and glorious Wli Falls.

      As you make your way towards the coast, visit the Kejetia Market in Kumasi – West Africa's biggest – and the rainforest experience of Kakum National Park, with its canopy walk and great birdwatching. Charming Elmina is a lovely base for exploring the slave-era castles of Ghana's Cape Coast. After 10 days to two weeks in Ghana, cross into Togo.

      Begin your Togolese time in the fascinating melting pot of Lomé, Togo's capital. On your way north, Kpalimé and Atakpamé are worth sampling as you head towards that gem of northern Togo, Koutammakou, one of West Africa's least-known treasures, with remote clay-and-straw fortresses set amid stunning scenery.

      Cross the border into northern Benin and make for Natitingou, gateway to the spectacular Atakora Mountains and wildlife-rich Parc National de la Pendjari, home to West Africa's last big population of lions, as well as other wildlife. It doesn't take long to return to the coast, but stop off in Abomey on your way to sexy Cotonou, a good base for excursions to Ganvié and the beaches of the Route des Pêches, as well as the voodoo strongholds of Lake Ahémé and Ouidah. Porto Novo is Cotonou's tranquil alter ego, with superb architecture, good museums and a palpable tropical languor. Cotonou itself is one of West Africa's coolest cities and it's well connected by air to the rest of the region.

      Voodoo festival, Benin | Dan Kitwood/Getty Images ©

      Countries at a Glance

      It’s difficult to generalise about West Africa’s 19 countries but some common themes do dominate travellers’ experiences here. Stunning and varied landscapes are found across the region, from mountains and the Sahara to rainforests and palm-fringed beaches. This is also one of the most diverse and intriguing mixes of cultures on earth, while wildlife can be another big draw. Few travellers include Mali and Niger in their itineraries these days so our coverage for these countries is limited.

      Countries at a Glance

      Benin

      For culture buffs, Benin impresses with its Afro-Brazilian heritage, voodoo traditions, stilt villages around Lake Nohoué and fascinating Somba culture in the northwest. The palm-fringed coastline has lovely beaches, while the Parc National de la Pendjari is a magnet for wildlife-lovers.

      Countries at a Glance

      Burkina Faso

      Burkina is a dream destination in Africa: the food is good, the music fabulous, the landscapes stunning and the people delightful. Despite this wealth of assets, it remains relatively low-key, which makes it all the more attractive.

      Countries at a Glance

      Cabo Verde

      A set of spectacular Atlantic islands, Cabo Verde is a world of its own. Come for dramatic hikes through mountains, forests and volcanoes, miles of pristine sand beaches and the islands' soulful music.

      Countries at a Glance

      Cameroon

      With West Africa’s highest peak, the glorious landscape of the Ring Road and some of Africa’s most accessible traditional cultures, Cameroon is for scenery and culture lovers. Kribi and Limbe vie for the title of Cameroon's best beach.

      Countries at a Glance

      Côte d'Ivoire

      Speed through sleek Abidjan, stopping for a bite of poisson braisé and a cold local beer. Explore some of West Africa's last remaining rainforest before lazing on the peroxide-blonde sands of Assinie.

      Countries at a Glance

      Equatorial Guinea

      Bioko Island has capital Malabo's Spanish heritage and the rainforests of the south with its apes, marine turtles and birds. The mainland, Rio Muni, is home to EG’s largest city, Bata, as well as undiscovered forests and untouched beaches.

      Countries at a Glance

      The Gambia

      Beyond the glittering resort towns, The Gambia offers nature reserves, pretty beaches and decadent ecolodges where you can see new birdlife every day and fall asleep in a jungle hammock built for two.

      Countries at a Glance

      Ghana

      West Africa’s rising star is among the most exciting places to be in Africa right now: see history, both in the making and long gone. Attractions range from hiking and wildlife viewing to cultural tours and partying.

      Countries at a Glance

      Guinea

      Guinea is one of West Africa's most adventurous destinations, with many rewards for the intrepid: remote and dramatic landscapes, a dynamic music scene and some of Africa's least-known wildlife possibilities.

      Countries at a Glance

      Guinea-Bissau

      West Africa's roughest gem, Guinea-Bissau is where you can kick off your shoes beneath scarlet sunsets, sip cool juice infused with magic, knock back oysters sweet as the sea and weave between hippo-inhabited islands in the otherwordly Arquipélago dos Bijagós.

      Countries at a Glance

      Liberia

      Liberia is postcard-perfect sands and swaths of rainforest, a soundtrack of birdsong, hip-co (music of Liberian vernacular) tracks and the playful beat of Liberian English. Discover its pretty ecolodges, secret surf spots and haunting architecture.

      Countries at a Glance

      Mali

      Mali is passing through troubled times and much of the country remains off-limits. But it has a mother lode of African music, the land here is rugged and beautiful, and the mosaic of cultures provides endless interest.

      Countries at a Glance

      Mauritania

      Mauritania is a country of big horizons – leave Nouakchott, the dusty capital, to soak up the coast's bird-rich Banc d’Arguin and Diawling national parks. And if the security situation improves, revel in the wide vistas of the true Saharan oases of the Adrar region.

      Countries at a Glance

      Niger

      Niger has dropped off travellers' radars as it's off-limits due to serious security issues, but this vast land that straddles the Sahara, Sahel and beyond has a splendid river, diverse ethnic groups and, in Agadez, a glorious, mud-built old town.

      Countries at a Glance

      Nigeria

      Nigeria is West Africa’s cultural powerhouse, a brash, sassy, complicated melting pot of fascinating peoples arrayed across a land that spans the full range of African landscapes, from the sultry rainforests of the south to the semi-deserts of the north.

      Countries at a Glance

      São Tomé & Príncipe

      This Atlantic Ocean jewel glitters with islands of rare beauty, plenty of birdlife and marine mammals, and some of West Africa's quietest and most rewarding hiking trails. It's an ecotourism hot spot and the region's real destination to watch.

      Countries at a Glance

      Senegal

      From snazzy, sophisticated Dakar and its endless live-music beats and urban grit to the Unesco-designated colonial architecture of sultry Saint-Louis and the water gently lapping while you float though the mangrove-lined Siné-Saloum Delta, Senegal captivates.

      Countries at a Glance

      Sierra Leone

      Peel back the mountainous curtains of Sierra Leone and discover a country that has it all, from chimpanzees to sea turtles, spicy chop to lobster suppers, and velvety beaches to rocky peaks.

      Countries at a Glance

      Togo

      Very few travellers know that Togo's beaches are thick with white sand (but no crowds) or that its rugged interior is rife with hiking opportunities. It’s also easy to arrange a village stay and learn about local culture.

      Benin

      Benin Highlights

      Cotonou

      Southern Benin

      Route des Peches

      Porto Novo

      Ouidah

      Grand Popo

      Possotome & Lake Aheme

      Abomey

      Northern Benin

      The Atakora Region

      Parc National de la Pendjari

      Understand Benin

      Benin Today

      History

      People of Benin

      Religion

      The Arts

      Food & Drink

      Environment

      Survival Guide

      Benin

      %229 / Pop 9.6 million

      Why Go?

      The birthplace of voodoo and a pivotal platform of the slave trade for nearly three centuries, Benin is steeped in a rich and complex history still very much in evidence today.

      A visit to this small, club-shaped nation could therefore not be complete without learning about spirits and fetishes and the Afro-Brazilian heritage of Ouidah, Abomey and Porto Novo,

      But Benin will also wow visitors with its palm-fringed beach idyll of the Atlantic coast, the rugged scenery of the north and the Parc National de la Pendjari, one of the best wildlife parks in West Africa. Lions, cheetahs, leopards, elephants and hundreds of other species thrive here.

      In fact, Benin is wonderfully tourist friendly. There are good roads, a wide range of accommodation options and ecotourism initiatives that offer the chance to delve into Beninese life. Now is an ideal time to go: the country sits on the cusp of discovery.

      When to Go

      A Nov–Feb Warm and dry. Wildlife-watching at its prime. Ouidah Voodoo Festival in January.

      A Mar–May The hottest period, after the harmattan lifts. Some rains in the south.

      A Jun–Oct Usually downright wet and uncomfortably humid; dry spell mid-July to mid-September in the south.

      Best Places to Eat

      A Chez Delphano

      A Saveurs d'Afrique

      A L'Atelier

      A Bab's Dock

      Best Places to Sleep

      A La Guesthouse

      A Maison Rouge

      A Auberge Le Jardin Secret – Chez Pascal

      A Pendjari Lodge

      A Hôtel Chez Théo

      Benin Highlights

      1 Ganvié Spending a night at this lakeside stilt village while while peering out over sublime lake life.

      2 Lake Ahémé Learning traditional fishing techniques and taking a dip at lake's shores.

      3 Parc National de la Pendjari Spotting lions, cheetahs, elephants and more in one of West Africa's best wildlife parks.

      4 Zinzou Foundation Museum Pondering contemporary African Art at this remarkable museum.

      5 Porto Novo Discovering Benin's mellow capital, with its Afro-Brazilian heritage.

      6 Abomey Visiting the ruined palaces and temples of the kings of Dahomey.

      7 Grand Popo Putting your bags down at this lovely beach town and relaxing on Benin's beautiful palm-fringed coast.

      Cotonou

      %21 / Pop 970,000

      Cotonou is Benin's capital in everything but name: a vibrant, bustling, full-on city, and very much the economic engine of Benin. As a first port of call, it can be a little overwhelming, but life can be sweet in Cotonou, with good nightlife, great restaurants and excellent shopping (ideal for end-of-trip souvenirs).

      It's also the most cosmopolitan and Western place in the country, which means a slightly higher level of creature comforts and a good place to stock up on essentials before venturing into rural areas of the country.

      Cotonou

      1 Sights

      1 Cathedral de Notre Dame H3

      2 Fetish Market G1

      3 Fondation Zinsou C4

      4 Grand Marché de Dantokpa G2

      4 Sleeping

      5 Azalai Hotel de la Plage B2

      Chez Clarisse E4

      6 Guesthouse Cocotiers B4

      7 La Guesthouse D2

      8 Maison Rouge B5

      5 Eating

      9 Chez Clarisse E4

      10 Chez Maman Bénin F3

      11 L'Atelier C4

      12 Maman Aimé E3

      6 Drinking & Nightlife

      13 Buvette C3

      14 Le Livingstone B3

      7 Shopping

      15 Centre de Promotion de l'Artisanat E3

      8 Information

      16 Banque Atlantique G2

      17 British Community Liaison Officer B3

      18 Cyber Océane B3

      19 Direction du Tourisme et de l'Hôtellerie D2

      20 French Embassy E4

      German Embassy E4

      21 Ghanaian Embassy B4

      22 Nigerian Embassy B2

      23 Pharmacie Jonquet G3

      24 Polyclinique les Cocotiers C4

      25 Star Navigation G3

      26 Trinity Forex G3

      27 US Embassy E4

      Transport

      28 Air Burkina C4

      Air France B4

      29 Asky F2

      30 ATT D1

      31 Brussels Airlines B4

      32 Cross Country International H1

      33 Ethiopian Airlines E2

      34 Gare du Dantokpa G2

      35 Gare Jonquet G3

      36 Gare Missébo G3

      37 Kenya Airways G3

      38 Rimbo-RTV E3

      39 Royal Air Maroc C4

      40 Senegal Airlines G3

      41 South African Airways G3

      42 STIF H4

      43 TCV G3

      44 UTB H3

      1 Sights

      Grand Marché de DantokpaMARKET

      ( h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

      The seemingly endless Grand Marché du Dantokpa is Cotonou's throbbing heart, bordered by the lagoon and Blvd St Michel. Everything under the sun can be purchased in its labyrinthine lanes, from fish to soap, plastic sandals to goats, pirated DVDs to spare car parts. More traditional fare, such as batiks and Dutch wax cloth, can be found in the market building. The fetish market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) section is at the northern end of the larger market.

      Cathedral de Notre DameCHURCH

      ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Clozel, by the Ancien Pont Bridge)

      With its vibrant red and white stripes, this Catholic cathedral is not just a place of worship but also home to a small bookshop selling titles by regional writers as well as a handful of academic texts. The stripes continue into the inside with sandstone and cream-coloured arches. Beyond its pretty stripes, it's a quiet and cool escape from the bustle of the city.

      Fondation ZinsouGALLERY

      ( F

      Named after the family that started it, this fantastic exhibition space seeks to promote contemporary African art among Beninese people through photography, paintings and sculptures. The chic boutique sells beautiful art books and the cafe offers wi-fi access. The gallery regularly provides shuttles

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