Lonely Planet Central Asia

Central Asia

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Central Asia

Central Asia's Top 15

Need to Know

First Time Central Asia

If You Like...

Month by Month

Itineraries

Visas & Permits

Border Crossings

Activities

Community-Based Tourism

Countries at a Glance

On The Road

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan Highlights

Bishkek

Chuy Oblast

Ala-Archa Canyon

Chunkurchak Valley

Alamedin Valley

Kegeti Valley

Issyk-Ata Valley

Tokmok

Suusamyr Valley

Northern Kyrgyzstan: Talas Oblast

Northern Kyrgyzstan: Issyk-Kol Oblast

Issyk-Kol Northern Shore

Karakol

Ak-Suu Region

Issyk-Kol Southern Shore

Northern Kyrgyzstan: Naryn Oblast

Kochkor

Son-Kol

Jumgal

Naryn

Eki-Naryn

Tash Rabat

Southern Kyrgyzstan: Jalal-Abad Oblast

Sary-Chelek

Jalal-Abad

Arslanbob

Kazarman

Southern Kyrgyzstan: Osh Oblast

Osh

Uzgen

Alay Valley

Understand Kyrgyzstan

Survival Guide

Tajikistan

Tajikistan Highlights

Dushanbe

Fergana Valley

Isfara

Khojand

Istaravshan

Zerafshan Valley

Penjikent

Fan Mountains

Sarvoda

Margeb

Upper Zerafshan Valley

The Pamirs

Western Pamir Highway

Khorog

Tajik Wakhan Corridor

Eastern Pamir Highway

Understand Tajikistan

Survival Guide

Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan Highlights

Tashkent (Toshkent)

Around Tashkent

Chimgan Ugam-Chatkal National Park

Fergana Valley

Kokand (Qoqon)

Fergana (Farg'ona)

Around Fergana

Andijon

Central Uzbekistan

Samarkand (Samarqand)

Shakhrisabz (Shahrisabz)

Termiz

Nurata

Bukhara (Buxoro)

Khorezm (Xorazm)

Urgench (Urganch)

Around Urgench

Khiva (Xiva)

Karakalpakstan (Qaraqalpaqstan)

Nukus (No'kis)

Moynaq (Moynoq)

Understand Uzbekistan

Survival Guide

Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan Highlights

Almaty

Around Almaty

Medeo & Chimbulak

Ozero Bolshoe Almatinskoe Area

Southeast Kazakhstan

Charyn Canyon

Kolsai Lakes

Altyn-Emel National Park

Karkara Valley

Central Tian Shan

Southern Kazakhstan

Taraz

Shymkent

Around Shymkent

Turkestan

Otrar

Kyzylorda

Aral

Western Kazakhstan

Aktau

Around Aktau

Uralsk

Northern Kazakhstan

Astana

Around Astana

Lake Burabay

Karaganda

Eastern Kazakhstan

Ust-Kamenogorsk

Altay Mountains

Semey

Around Semey

Understand Kazakhstan

Survival Guide

Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan Highlights

Ashgabat

Eastern Turkmenistan

Mary

Merv

Turkmenabat

Karakum Desert

Northern Turkmenistan

Dashoguz

Konye-Urgench

Western Turkmenistan

Turkmenbashi

Understand Turkmenistan

Survival Guide

Understand

Central Asia Today

History

The Silk Road

People

Islam in Central Asia

The Arts

Architecture

Environment

Survive

Directory A-Z

Accommodation

Children

Customs Regulations

Documents

Electricity

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Registration

Responsible Travel

Safe Travel

Shopping

Telephone

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Health

Before You Go

In Central Asia

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Central Asia

With its medieval blue-domed cities, kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays, Central Asia encapsulates the romance of the Silk Road like nowhere else.

A Warm Welcome

Whether you want to explore the architectural gems of Bukhara or take a horse trek across the high Pamirs, everywhere in Central Asia you'll be greeted with instinctive local hospitality and offered a shared meal, a helping hand or a place to stay. Beyond Uzbekistan's Silk Road cities, mass tourism has yet to make any inroads in Central Asia, lending an authentic sense of discovery to each trip. Add to this the intrinsic fascination of a forgotten region slowly emerging as a geopolitical pivot point and you have one of Asia's most absorbing hidden corners.

Footprints of History

From Alexander the Great to Chinggis (Genghis) Khan to Timur (Tamerlane), Central Asia's page-turning history litters the land at every turn. From the right angle and with one eye closed, the storied oasis caravan stops of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their exotic skylines of minarets and medressas, really do seem to be lifted directly from the age of Marco Polo. Share a round of kebabs with an Uzbek trader or wander an ancient caravanserai and historical romantics will find the past and present begin to blur into one in Central Asia.

Mountains & Yurts

East of the desert and steppe settlements rise the snow-capped Pamir and Tian Shan ranges of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, home to traditional herding communities and some truly epic mountain scenery. Here community-based tourism projects can bring you face to face with nomadic Kyrgyz herders, meeting them in their yurts and on their terms. Ride out to remote lakes on horseback, hike from one village homestay to another, or take a 4WD out to remote archaeological sites. The scope for adventure and exploration here is almost limitless.

Travel off the Map

For decades – centuries even – much of the world has regarded Central Asia as a blank on the map, synonymous with the middle of nowhere, rather than the heartland of Asia. For a certain type of wanderer, this is all part of the attraction of a land that has been largely off-limits to travellers for the last 2000 years. Head even a little bit off the beaten track and you'll likely have the place to yourself. The region's little-visited oddities, namely Turkmenistan and most of Kazakhstan, are even further removed from the modern world and offer an addictive interest all of their own.

Uzbek children, Bukhara | CHEKUNOV ALEKSANDR /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love Central Asia

By Bradley Mayhew, Writer

Each republic in Central Asia has its own attraction for me. In Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan I love the unrivalled mountain scenery and the incredible tradition of hospitality among the local Wakhi and Kyrgyz. In Uzbekistan it's the glorious weight of history and the sense of travelling in the sand-prints of some of history's greatest travellers and invaders. There's also something unique and even slightly weird about Central Asia, as if the normal rules of tourist engagement don't quite apply. For me it's a completely addictive place; I freely admit to being a Stan-oholic.

Central Asia's Top 15

Almaty, Kazakhstan

Central Asia's most cosmopolitan and hedonistic city, Almaty is a leafy mix of Russian and Central Asian styles. In a couple of days you can visit the Tsarist-era Zenkov Cathedral, view a replica of the famous Scythian-era Golden Man suit, soak in the Arasan Bathhouse and enjoy the region's best cafes, clubs and shops, all fuelled by the country's petrodollar boom. The city is also a gateway to mountain treks and winter sports just south of town and a springboard to Silk Road bus and train routes into China.

G&M THERIN-WEISE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Astana's Architecture

Kazakhstan's custom-built capital rises from the steppe like a mirage to reveal some of Asia's most audacious and cutting-edge modern architecture. From the Norman Foster designs of the world's largest tent, and the glass-pyramid design of the Palace of Peace and Accord, Astana is the symbolic brainchild of President Nazarbayev and the face of post-Borat Kazakhstan. The constantly evolving city got a huge boost from the 2017 World Expo and an emerging restaurant scene makes visiting the city a pleasure, not just a curiosity.

Jane Sweeney / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Bazaars

Central Asia's bazaars have been fuelling Silk Road trade for two millennia. Shopping for melons, carpets and silly hats is perhaps the quintessential Central Asian activity and we'd go further to say that the local bazaars offer the most direct route to the region's soul. Every town has its own bazaar lined with chaikhanas (teahouses), smoking shashlyk, fruit stalls and even animal markets. Our favourite is possibly the Kumtepa Bazaar outside Margilon, in the Fergana Valley, though nearby Andijon's Jahon Bazaar and Osh's Bazaar are also excellent.

MARIUSZ PRUSACZYK / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Top Experiences

Bukhara, Uzbekistan

Central Asia's most interesting town, Bukhara is the one urban space that best rewards some serious exploring. Visit the medieval Ark, from where emirs ruled with a cruel, vice-like grip; sip green tea beside the Lyabi-Hauz pool; and then head to the towering Kalon Minaret from where you can stroll through the surrounding network of bazaars, bathhouses and trade halls. Best of all are the labyrinthine backstreets, home to hidden synagogues, Sufi shrines and half-forgotten medressas. Bukhara also boasts the region's most stylish B&Bs, many in converted merchants' houses.

AMOS CHAPPLE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Community-Based Tourism

This network of homestays, guides, drivers and yurt owners spreads across Kyrgyzstan in an attempt to bring the financial benefits of tourism directly to local communities. For travellers it gives you a contact in every town and opens up a wealth of friendly, affordable homestays and potential excursions to remote sights, lakes and herding communities. Kochkor in Central Kyrgyzstan is the original and best place to start, but the idea has also taken firm hold in neighbouring Tajikistan.

MICHAL KNITL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Fan Mountains

The mountains northwest of Dushanbe rank as one of Central Asia's premier trekking destinations. Dozens of turquoise lakes stud the high mountain valleys. Go on a multiday trek to meet local Tajik shepherds, or drive to the seven lakes (Haft Kul) of the Marguzor Valley and do some delightful day hikes from a chain of homestays. You can even visit the ruined old Sogdian city of Penjikent en route. Visit from the Tajik towns of Dushanbe or Khojand, as the international border between Samarkand and Penjikent remains closed.

IRYNA HROMOTSKA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Khiva, Uzbekistan

The former khanate of Khiva is an entire walled city of traditional mud-baked architecture, frozen in time in the desert wastes of Khorezm. It may lack the lived-in backstreet life of Bukhara, but in return you get the best preserved medieval city in Central Asia, if not the Islamic world. You can wander city walls, former slave markets and extensive royal palaces, where khaki walls burst with green and blue tilework and brick yurt bases hint at the formerly nomadic life of the region.

EFESENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Konye-Urgench

Turkmenistan's premier historical site of Konye-Urgench is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Once the capital of the Khorezmshahs and a major intellectual centre of the Muslim world in the 12th century, the city was pulverised by both Chinggis (Genghis) Khan and Timur (Tamerlane). The enigmatic remains include royal mausolea, Sufi shrines and a 59m-tall 14th-century minaret. It's a short hop across the Uzbekistan border, but you'll need a guide in order to get a Turkmen tourist visa.

DARKYDOORS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Pamir Highway, Tajikistan

From the deep, rugged mountain valleys of beautiful Badakhshan, the Soviet-built Pamir Highway climbs up on to the treeless Pamir plateau to the 'wild east' town of Murgab and on past the dramatic azure lake of Kara-Köl in to Kyrgyzstan's stunning Alay Valley. En route you'll pass ancient tombs, hot springs, remote Kyrgyz yurt camps and some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Asia. It's one of the world's great mountain road trips. Tackle it in a rented Soviet 4WD or as a challenging bicycle ride.

NOWAK LUKASZ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Samarkand

Although already an important oasis town, it was Timur who turned Samarkand into one of the most beautiful cities in Asia. Visit Timur's own mausoleum, the Gur-e-Amir, followed by the spectacular street of tombs of his Timurid relatives. For epic and audacious architecture it's hard to beat the crumbling remains of the epic Bibi Khanum Mosque, built for Timur's wife. Then throw in the breathtaking Registan Square (one of the Islamic world's greatest architectural ensembles), some great bazaars and the 2000-year-old remains of Afrosiab, the original Silk Road trading town.

DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Son-Köl

The jewel of central Kyrgyzstan is the high-alpine lake Son-Köl, fringed with lush summer pastures and summer-only Kyrgyz yurt camps. You can trek or drive here but the best option is a horse trek, overnighting in yurtstays along the way. June to August are the best months to visit Kyrgyzstan's idyllic jailoo (summer pastures), when you might even catch a horse-games festival or a performance by a Kyrgyz bard or eagle hunter. Bring a sleeping bag.

TDWAY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

The High Roads to China

The mountain border crossings of the Torugart and Irkeshtam passes are without doubt the most exciting and scenic ways to enter or leave Central Asia. The high valleys of the Tian Shan are splendid and there's a satisfying continuity in crossing from ex-Soviet Central Asia into Chinese Turkestan via the storied Uyghur city of Kashgar. The Irkeshtam Pass is logistically easier, but the Torugart Pass offers the chance to stop overnight at the atmospheric Tash Rabat caravanserai.

DOUG MEIKLE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Trekking

Few people realise that Central Asia has some of the world's most beautiful mountain scenery. Karakol in Kyrgyzstan is the most popular base camp for treks into the lush alpine meadows of the Tian Shan, but the high-altitude Pamir valleys also offer top-notch trekking. You can hike from homestay to homestay in places such as Tajikistan's Geisev (Jizeu) Valley or Kyrgyzstan's Alay region, or go with an agency on a fully supported trek to the stunning amphitheatre of Khan Tengri and the Inylchek Glacier. Untouched valleys beg for exploration, but check security if headed to border areas.

ANA FLASKER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Turkestan

The turquoise dome and ornate tilework of the Timurid-era Yasaui Mausoleum is easily Kazakhstan's most beautiful building and a rare architectural gem in a land ruled by restless nomads. It's also one of the best places to get a sense of Central Asian Sufism and meet local pilgrims as they pray, picnic and tie wishes to trees surrounding the holy shrine. For the most atmospheric approach, get here on an overnight train from Almaty or Tashkent.

DMITRY CHULOV / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Wakhan Valley

The Tajik side of the Wakhan Valley feels like a hidden Shangri-La. Bordered by the Hindu Kush and a finger of remotest Afghanistan, the valley is dotted with Silk Road forts, Ismaili shrines and village homestays run by welcoming Wakhi Tajik families. It's an essential add-on to a Pamir Hwy trip and a potential springboard into northern Afghanistan. Even Marco Polo was impressed when he passed through. To get the most out of the valley, hire transport or hike the valley.

DOUG MEIKLE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

Visas

These are much easier to obtain than a few years ago. Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan are visa-free, Tajikistan has an easy online process, Uzbekistan is fairly easy and Turkmenistan is tricky.

Money

Bring a combination of cash US dollars (especially for Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan) or euros (especially for Kazakhstan), and a debit card for ATMs in the cities.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards are easy to get in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, and only somewhat harder to get as a foreigner in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Local calls and data are inexpensive.

Time

Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan (GMT/UTC plus five hours)

Kyrgyzstan (GMT/UTC plus six hours)

Kazakhstan (straddles both time zones)

When to Go

High Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct)

A Comfortable temperatures in the lowlands.

A Bazaars are overflowing with fruit in September.

Shoulder (Jul & Aug)

A Sizzlingly hot in the lowlands, especially in Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and western Tajikistan.

A The best time to visit mountainous Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and southeastern Kazakhstan.

A Prime time for trekking (July to September).

Low Season (Nov–Mar)

A Cold in Uzbekistan, frozen in sub-Siberian Kazakhstan and snowy in the mountains.

A Many tourist hotels and B&Bs close in Uzbekistan; the rest offer big discounts.

A March is a good time weather-wise for Turkmenistan.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more. The Central Asia branch of the Thorn Tree forum has news on visas and border crossings.

Caravanistan (www.caravanistan.com) Peerless online travel guide to the region.

Oriental Express Central Asia (www.orexca.com) Virtual travel guide from a local travel agency.

EurasiaNet (www.eurasianet.org) News and cultural articles, with resource pages for each country.

Pamirs.org (www.pamirs.org) Definitive travel and historical guide to the Pamir region in Tajikistan from Robert Middleton.

Important Numbers

Travelling Safely

Travel in Central Asia is generally trouble-free and certainly much easier than a decade ago.

Watch for pickpockets in crowded bazaars or bus stations.

Central Asian officials and police generally create more problems than they solve.

Make sure your documents, permits and registration (if needed) are watertight at all times.

At night don't get into a taxi with more than one person in it.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$45

A Homestay per person with two meals: US$10–20

A Chaikhana (teahouse) meal: US$3–5

A Horse hire in Kyrgyzstan per day: US$15

Midrange: US$25–80

A B&B in Bukhara or Samarkand: US$25–50

A Double room in a midrange hotel: US$30–80 (US$50–130 in Kazakhstan)

Top End: More than US$80

A Double room in a four-star hotel: US$110

A Tour in Turkmenistan per person per day in small group: US$150–200

Opening Hours

Banks and offices 9am to noon and 1 to 5pm Monday to Friday, possibly 9am to noon Saturday. Exchange offices keep longer hours, including weekends.

Museums Generally closed Monday.

Restaurants 11am to 9pm; longer opening hours in major cities.

Arriving in Central Asia

Tashkent International Airport, Uzbekistan A taxi to the centre costs around US$5 in som. Guesthouses will pick you up for around US$10.

Almaty Airport, Kazakhstan Official taxis run to the centre for around 2500T and there are minibuses.

Manas International Airport, Kyrgyzstan (Bishkek) A taxi to central Bishkek costs 500som. Minibus 380 (40som) to the centre departs from just to the right of the arrivals exit.

Dushanbe Airport, Tajikistan A taxi to the centre costs US$12 to US$15.

Saparmurat Turkmenbashi Airport, Turkmenistan (Ashgabat) A taxi to the centre costs 10M.

Getting Around

Transport in Central Asia is relatively convenient and abundant in the plains but much patchier in the mountains.

Train High-speed modern trains run to Samarkand, Bukhara and soon Khiva in Uzbekistan and between Almaty and Astana in Kazakhstan. Long-distance rail services are less comfortable but a common way to get around huge Kazakhstan.

Bus Fairly reliable and comfortable coaches run between major cities, but comfort, reliability and frequency plummet rapidly in rural areas.

Shared taxi The best way to get around Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Pay by the seat or buy all four of them for cheap car hire on set routes.

Hire car Useful for the Pamirs and mountain areas of Kyrgyzstan and generally priced per kilometre, with a driver.

First Time Central Asia

Checklist

A Give yourself a couple of months to get a Turkmen visa and a couple of weeks to get an Uzbek visa (longer if you need a letter of invitation).

A If heading to Uzbekistan, amass all the crisp, clean US dollar bills you'll need.

A Inform your debit-/credit-card company that you'll be travelling abroad.

What to Pack

A Sleeping bag and water purification tablets for mountainous Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

A A Russian phrasebook or translation app.

A Postcards and photos from home to break the ice in homestays.

A Floss – to get the mutton out from between your teeth.

A The latest government travel warnings and a small pinch of salt.

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Learn the Cyrillic alphabet and some basic Russian – it will really help.

A Bring a history book or good travelogue, as the more you know about Central Asia, the more rewarding it becomes.

A If you are a vegetarian stock up on fruit, nuts, Korean salads, bread and honey at the local bazaar, rather than rely on vegetarian options in restaurants or chaikhanas.

A Make use of homestays in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan; they are almost always more comfortable than budget hotels.

A Bring all your hiking and camping gear with you as equipment is very limited in Central Asia.

A Have a back-up travel plan if trying to get a visa for Turkmenistan.

Etiquette

Clothing Western-style clothes are acceptable in capital cities and large towns, but avoid wearing singlets, shorts or short skirts in rural areas or the conservative Fergana Valley.

Mosques Working mosques are generally closed to women, though men will likely be invited in outside prayer times. When visiting a mosque, always take your shoes off at the door.

Visiting someone's home Take your shoes off at the door. Avoid stepping on any carpet if you have your shoes on.

Blowing your nose Try not to in public; it's considered rude.

Respect for the elderly Central Asian society devotes much respect to its elderly, known as aksakal (white beards). Always make an effort to shake hands with an elder. Young men generally give up their bus seat to aksakal and foreigners should offer their place in a crowded chaikhana (teahouse).

What to Wear

Loose-fitting, light fabrics are best for lowland areas in summer as temperatures can be hot. Long trousers, skirts and shirts are useful for travelling in conservative areas such as the Fergana Valley or rural areas. Don't wear shorts.

A sun hat, sunglasses and sun cream are essential for the strong desert and mountain sun.

Bargaining

Shops have fixed prices, but in markets (food, art or souvenirs) bargaining is usually expected.

A Asking prices are usually in proportion to the expected outcome. Sellers will be genuinely surprised if you reply to their '5000' with '1000'; they're more likely expecting 3500, 4000 or 4500 in the end.

A Always negotiate when arranging transport hire.

A In Kyrgyzstan bargaining is usually reserved only for taxi drivers.

A The Russian word for 'discount' is skidka .

Tipping

Tipping is common in Central Asian cities. Most cafes and restaurants in the capitals add a 10% to 20% service charge to the bill, or expect you to round the total up.

Sleeping

Accommodation options are somewhat uneven across the region. The budget homestays of Kyrgyzstan are excellent and the B&Bs of Uzbekistan offer the most stylish and comfortable midrange options. Kazakhstan has a couple of backpacker hostels, some rural homestays, and good midrange and top-end choices. Tajikistan's Pamir region in particular has an informal network of homes and yurts that offer a fascinating and intimate look at the way local people live.

Budget travellers off the beaten track may still have to use the occasional fossilised Soviet-era hotel, but these are generally a last resort.

Budget accommodation can be considered anything under US$30 for a double room in high season.

Midrange hotels and B&Bs range from US$30 to US$70 per night (US$50 to US$100 in much of Kazakhstan). For this you can expect air-con, satellite TV, free wi-fi and a decent breakfast.

Many hotels also offer lux (luxury) and half lux suites, which normally have an extra room and can often sleep four or more; good for families. Homestays and yurtstays are priced per person and we use the term dm (dorm) in our reviews.

Eating

Food should not be the main reason you come to Central Asia. In the first years of independence most restaurants served only standard slop, which somehow seemed to taste (and smell) indelibly of the old USSR. The situation has improved in recent years, particularly in the cities, with a rush of pleasant open-air cafes, fast-food joints and Turkish restaurants. The best way to appreciate regional cuisines, and the region's extraordinary hospitality, is still a meal in a private home.

Solo Travellers

You'll meet other travellers in backpacker guesthouses or hostels in Bishkek and Osh (Kyrgyzstan), Almaty (Kazakhstan), Khorog (Tajikistan) and the main towns in Uzbekistan.

It's generally not too difficult to find travellers to share car-hire costs for the Torugart, Irkeshtam or Pamir Hwy trips. Local travel agents and community tourism providers can often help link you with other travellers, or try posting on Thorn Tree (www.thorntree.lonelyplanet.com).

Most hotels offer single rates, but these are often in tiny box-like rooms. Places that offer a single rate for a solo traveller in a double room are much better value.

Travelling alone in Turkmenistan can be expensive. Hotel rooms cost almost the same whether you have one or two people in your party, and if you are on a tourist visa you'll have to bear the burden of hiring a guide for yourself.

If You Like...

Silk Road Architecture

Nothing connects Central Asia to its storied past quite like its mosques, minarets and medressas. Uzbekistan is the place for some of the world's greatest Islamic architecture.

Registan, Samarkand This jaw-dropping ensemble is of not one but three medressas in a stunning public square in Uzbekistan. If possible climb the corkscrew minarets for views over Timur's showcase city.

Kalon Minaret, Bukhara This towering Uzbek minaret is so impressive that it stopped Chinggis (Genghis) Khan in his tracks 800 years ago.

Shah-i-Zinda, Samarkand Uzbekistan's head-spinning turquoise-blue Timurid tilework doesn't get any better than this sublime street of royal tombs.

Ichon-Qala, Khiva An entire walled city of royal palaces, blue-tiled tombs and mud-baked city walls, frozen in time in Uzbek's Khorezm oasis.

Tash Rabat Caravanserai Singularly romantic refuge for caravans and traders, hidden in a high mountain valley near the Chinese border, in Kyrgyzstan.

Shah-i-Zinda, Samarkand, Uzbekistan | NICOLA MESSANA PHOTOS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hiking

Central Asia's best-kept secrets are its remote Tian Shan and Pamir ranges, hiding some of Asia's most sublime mountain trails.

Fan Mountains, Tajikistan Jewel-like azure-blue lakes, rugged peaks and homestays make this the region's most popular trekking spot.

Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan Behind Karakol lies a network of lush forested alpine valleys, hidden lakes and snow-capped peaks, linked by treks of two to seven days.

Bartang Valley, Tajikistan Hike from homestays into one of the wildest and most memorable valleys in the Western Pamirs.

Zailiysky Alatau, Kazakhstan Hiking trails and short trek routes lead from the Almaty city limits through Ile-Alatau National Park to picturesque Bolshoe Almatinskoe Lake.

Alay Valley, Kyrgyzstan Wonderful day hikes beneath Peak Lenin to mountain lakes, or multiday treks over the Jiptik Pass.

Arslanbob, Kyrgyzstan Hike through walnut forests and past waterfalls to the Köl-Mazar lakes (four days). Book guides and horses through CBT.

Yurt, Karakul, Tajikistan | RM / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nomadic Life

Yurts Stay overnight in an authentic yurt in the high eastern Pamirs or the pastures of Kyrgyzstan, and visit the world's only three-storey yurt in Osh.

Manaschi There's something other-worldly about listening to a white-bearded bard reciting the Kyrgyz national epic, Manas. It's a direct link to the Kyrgyz nomadic past.

Horse Games Summer brings the good life to the jailoos (summer pastures), along with horse races, horseback wrestling and Kyrgyz-style kiss-chase.

Eagle hunting Real hunts (with eagles, not for eagles) take place in winter but several spots in Kyrgyzstan offer summer displays from authentic berkutchi (eagle hunters).

Son-Köl The best way to visit this lovely mountain lake is on a horse trek, stopping in herders' yurts en route. Allow four days.

Bazaars

Haggling for carpets, camels or car parts is perhaps the quintessential Central Asian activity.

Jayma Bazaar, Kyrgyzstan The riverside bazaar in Osh bustles every day but goes mad on Sunday, and is a great place to pick up a white Kyrgyz ak kalpak (traditional felt hat).

Kumtepa Bazaar, Uzbekistan Sunday offers the best selection of local khanatlas (tie-dyed silks) and Uzbek white-beards at this rollicking market 5km outside Margilon.

Siob Bazaar, Uzbekistan This Samarkand bazaar is the city's most photogenic place to stock up on fruit and hot bread in the shadows of the epic ruined Bibi-Khanym Mosque.

Carpet shopping Bukhara, Khiva and Ashgabat are the best places to invest in this quintessential Silk Road souvenir, and don't forget Kyrgyz felt shyrdaks in Kochkor.

Urgut Bazaar, Uzbekistan Sunday and Wednesday mornings are the best times to day trip from Samarkand to this village bazaar, strong on jewellery and suzani textiles.

Jahon Bazaar, Uzbekistan The bazaar in Andijon is the biggest in the Uzbek Fergana Valley, especially on Sunday and Thursday.

Chaikhana (teahouse), Fergana , Uzbekistan | TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI / GETTY IMAGES ©

Community Based Tourism

Kyrgyzstan Pioneering countrywide network of homestays and service providers that can arrange everything from feltmaking to horse trekking.

Pamirs Ecotourism Association Yurtstays are the only way to really see the herding communities, mountain lakes and archaeological sites of the high Pamir mountain range.

Geisev (Jizeu) Valley, Western Pamirs This network of homestays allows hikers to trek to a scenic chain of mountain lakes without the need for bulky camping equipment or food.

Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve Kazakhstan's best ecotourism project is great for wildlife-watching and hiking.

Nuratau Mountains Uzbekistan's only real homestay organisation offers village walks, hiking and horse riding south of Aidarkul Lake.

Archaeological Sites

Come equipped with a history book and your imagination, for the following ruins rank as some of the pivotal historical sites in Asia.

Afrosiab, Uzbekistan Stand in the footprints of Alexander the Great and view Sogdian-era murals at the melted remains of this 2500-year-old city.

Penjiken, Tajikistan Wander among the crumbling mounds and eroded citadel of this once-cosmopolitan Sogdian city.

Merv, Turkmenistan The 'Queen of the World' boasts eight overlapping cities, including the capital of the Seljuq Turks.

Otra, Kazakhstan This dusty hill changed the course of Central Asian history when Chinggis Khan's emissaries were murdered here, plus it's where Timur (Tamerlane) died.

Gonur Dep, Turkmenistan This active archaeological site in the Margiana Oasis dates from the Bronze Age and may have been the birthplace of Zoroastrianism.

Termiz, Uzbekistan Visit Buddhist monasteries, Bactrian temples and Islamic shrines at Termiz, on the banks of the Oxus River.

Off the Beaten Track

Central Asia's remoter gems take a bit of getting to, but offer some of the region's most memorable experiences.

Savitsky Museum, Nukus Tick off the 'Stan within a Stan' with a visit to Karakalpakstan in Uzbekistan, home to some of the greatest avant-garde Soviet art of the 1930s.

Mangistau Underground mosques, necropoli and the enigmatically named 'Valley of Balls' await exploration in the deserts around Aktau in western Kazakhstan.

Desert Castles of Ancient Khorezm Hire a car and track down the dozen or more two-millennia-old fortresses known as Elliq-Qala that rise from the Karakum desert in Uzbekistan, like giant sandcastles.

Altay Gorgeous mountain valleys, snow-capped peaks and the myths of Shambhala are the draw to this part of Kazakhstan, if you can get around the red tape.

Western Pamirs The wild and remote Tajik valleys around Khorog, especially Bartang Valley, boast incredible scenery, homestays and tough treks, making it great for mountain exploration.

The Weird & the Downright Odd

Central Asia supplies a daily dose of the unexpected, but for the really odd head to Turkmenistan and remoter Kazakhstan.

Baykonur Cosmodrome, Kazakhstan Book a tour months in advance to watch a rocket blast off from Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin's former launch site.

Aral Sea, Kazakstan Drive across the former lake bed to the receding shores of the dying sea and ponder the nature of environmental folly.

Astana, Kazakhstan Lie on a beach beside palm trees inside the world's largest tent, Khan Shatyr, then gawp at 2000-year-old horse innards at the Presidential Cultural Centre.

Darvaza Gas Craters At night this burning pit in the Karakum desert resembles nothing less than the fiery gates of Hell. It's weird, even for Turkmenistan.

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan A mix between Las Vegas and Pyongyang, odd highlights include the Ministry of Fairness, the world's largest handwoven rug and a 12m golden statue of former dictator Turkmenbashi.

ALZhIR Museum, Kazakhstan This sobering museum outside Astana shows the horrors of Soviet labour camps. You can also visit a former KarLag camp outside Karaganda.

Semipalatinsk Polygon, Kazakhstan This post-apocalyptic wasteland comes complete with underground bunkers and the Atomic Lake.

Cultural Immersion

Arasan Baths, Kazakhstan Sweat the day away or indulge your inner kink with a birch-branch flogging at Almaty's favourite banya (public bath).

Chaikhana culture Nothing beats the experience of joining the local aksakals (white beards) over a pot of green tea, a round of kebabs and a fresh watermelon.

Assumption Cathedral, Uzbekistan Babushkas, incense and sacred liturgies offer a different aspect of Central Asian religious life in this Orthodox centre in Tashkent.

Yasaui Mausoleum, Kazakhstan If you visit this Sufi shrine in Turkestan on a weekend, you'll see families praying, feasting and making wishes by tying rags to sacred trees.

Alisher Navoi Opera & Ballet Theatre, Uzbekistan Shell out a couple of bucks for a classy performance of Aida or Swan Lake at this impressive Tashkent theatre, or its equivalent in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

Month by Month

Top Events

Nauroz, March

Independence Day Celebrations, various

Roof of the World Festival, July

At Chabysh Horse Festival, August

World Nomadic Games, September

March

Perfect weather in the deserts of Turkmenistan, southern Tajikistan and Uzbekistan (towards the end of the month). The Karakum desert blooms like a Jackson Pollock canvas.

z Nauroz

Central Asia's biggest festival around the equinox (21 March in most republics; 22 March in Kazakhstan) marks the beginning of spring and the Persian new year with games of kokpar (traditional polo-like game played with a headless goat), family feasts and funfairs.

Shirinliklar (sweets), Nauroz | ARMASTAS / GETTY IMAGES ©

April

Spring is kicking in, as blooms start to appear in mountain foothills. An excellent month to visit lowland areas.

3 Bishkek Jazz Festival

Three evenings of jazz jams at venues across Bishkek, with a dozen international acts attending. One of Central Asia's better music festivals.

3 Horse Day

Turkmenistan's Horse Day (the last Sunday in April) offers a chance for horse-lovers to see the country's famous Akhal-Teke horses in action at hippodromes across the country.

May

It's starting to get hot in the lowlands, but can still be chilly in the highlands. High season in Uzbekistan means you should make advance hotel bookings.

z Silk & Spices Festival

Four-day cultural festival in Bukhara, featuring music and dance, folk art, fashion, handicrafts, exhibitions and maybe even the odd tightrope walker. It can be held in June too.

2 Watching Wildlife

April and May are the best months to spot Kazakhstan's 36 species of tulip, while May and June are the time to spot hundreds of migratory bird species, especially at Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve ( h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri).

July

High summer is the time to visit the mountains of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and southeast Kazakhstan. Rich pastures bring herders to their summer camps.

z Astana Day

This festival on 6 July (which just happens to be President Nazarbayev's birthday) sees concerts, fireworks, fairs and parades in Kazakhstan's capital city.

z National Horse Games Festival

Kyzyl-Oi village in Kyrgyzstan's Suusamyr Valley celebrates the summer pastures with games of ulak-tartysh (buzkashi; polo with a dead goat), horseback races, wrestling, traditional music and food. It's generally the third or fourth Saturday of July. There are similar events at Son-Köl.

z Roof of the World Festival

Badakhshani (Pamir Tajik) music, dance, film and handicrafts from across the region make this the mountain cultural festival of the year, with a stunning backdrop at Khorog in the Tajikistan Pamirs.

2 Roof of the World Regatta

Bring your windsurfer or kayak to this five-day festival on the shores of Karakul Lake in the remote Pamirs and take part in the world's highest regatta. It's held in the last week of July.

z Yak & Horse Games Festival

Tulpar Köl yurt camp at the base of Peak Lenin in Kyrgyzstan's Alay Valley (www.visitalay.kg) is the spectacular setting for these traditional horse games, with tug of war, live music and yak races. It's on the third weekend in July. Bring a tent.

August

Summer continues to sizzle in the lowlands as the mercury hits 40°C (104°F). The good life is up in the mountains, with August a great month for trekking at higher altitudes.

z At Chabysh Horse Festival

This lively horse-games festival (www.atchabysh.org) on the second weekend in August takes place in Murgab in Tajikistan's eastern Pamirs and Peak Lenin in Kyrgyzstan. Count on horse races, equestrian games, handicrafts and Manas (Kyrgyz epic) recitals.

3 Birds of Prey Festival

Visit Bokonbaevo, on the southern shores of Lake Issyk-Köl, to see hunting displays with golden eagles, folklore music and traditional ceremonies. Great for photos. Third Saturday of August.

z FourE Festival

This alternative-lifestyle festival (www.foure.kz/en) brings together three days of yoga, art, workshops and ethnic and spiritual music in a different location outside Almaty each year.

z Independence Day, Kyrgyzstan

There are parades, music concerts and traditional horseback games at Bishkek's hippodrome on 31 August to celebrate the anniversary of Kyrgyzstan's independence from the USSR in 1991.

3 Sharq Taronalari Music Festival

The 'Melodies of the Orient' Festival (www.sharqtaronalari.uz) in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, hosts a collection of 50 concerts by Central Asian and world musicians, with fantastic locations such as the Registan as a backdrop. It's held every other year (the next ones are in 2019 and 2021).

September

A great month to visit almost anywhere. Temperatures are still pleasant in the highlands, but the worst of the summer heat is over in the oases. Markets burst with fruit.

z Independence Days, Uzbekistan & Tajikistan

There are nationwide celebrations on 1 September in the capital of each region of Uzbekistan, with the largest event in Tashkent’s Mustaqillik maydoni (Independence Sq). Similar festivities are held in Tajikistan on 9 September.

3 World Nomadic Games

The first week of September brings an epic week of spectacularly photogenic nomadic sports, such as horseback wrestling, eagle hunting, archery and horse racing, to the north shores of Issyk-Köl near Cholpon-Ata. It's held every two years, with the next events in 2018 and 2020 (www.worldnomadgames.com).

Eagle hunting, Kazakhstan | ALEXANDR VLASSYUK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

October

A great month in lowland areas, with cool air and sunny skies, though the mercury is starting to drop in the mountains and in northern Kazakhstan.

z Independence Day, Turkmenistan

On 27 and 28 October there's a two-day public holiday in the desert republic, marked by military parades and much pageantry, with the biggest displays in Ashgabat.

December

As Central Asia shivers in sub-zero temperatures, the winter sports season kicks in at ski resorts, notably Chimbulak in Kazakhstan.

z Independence Day, Kazakhstan

Concerts, parades, conferences and exhibitions mark the last of the year's Independence Day celebrations on 16 December.

Itineraries

Silk Road Cities

2 Weeks

This loop route through Uzbekistan takes in almost all of Central Asia's greatest historical and architectural sites. Fly into Tashkent and get a feel for the big city before taking a domestic flight to Urgench and then a short bus or taxi ride to Khiva, which is comfortably seen in a day. Then take a taxi for a day trip to the crumbing Elliq-Qala desert cities of neighbouring Karakalpakstan.

From Khiva see if the new express train is running to Bukhara (if not, take a shared taxi from Urgench). Bukhara deserves the most time of all the Silk Road cities so try to spend at least two full days to take in the sights, shop the bazaars and explore the backstreets.

If you want to get off the beaten track make a detour to Nurata and then overnight at either a yurt camp at Lake Aidarkul or a mountain village homestay at Sentyab.

From here take the golden (actually tarmac) road to Samarkand for a day or two. Soak in the glories of the Registan and Shah-i-Zinda and, if you have time, add on a day trip to Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Timur (Tamerlane).

Itineraries

Central Asia Overland – The Silk Road

3 Weeks

Much of this itinerary follows ancient Silk Road paths and modern travellers will likely make the same route decisions as early traders, based on cost, ease of transport and the time of year.

Western roads into Central Asia lead from Mashhad in Iran to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan, or from Baku in Azerbaijan (by boat) to Turkmenbashi, also in Turkmenistan. If you only have a transit visa for Turkmenistan you can travel from Mashhad to Mary (to visit the Unesco World Heritage–listed ruins of Merv) in one long day via the crossing at Saraghs, giving you more time at Merv and bypassing Ashgabat.

From Ashgabat the overland route leads to Merv and the Silk Road cities of Bukhara, Samarkand and Tashkent. Figure on at least two full days in Bukhara and two full days each in Samarkand and Tashkent, preferably more. In Tashkent take a ride on the metro, shop at Chorsu Bazaar and visit the History Museum and Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan, two of Central Asia's best.

From Tashkent take the new morning train to Kokand in the Fergana Valley to see the khan's palace, then continue to Margilon to shop for silks. From here head to Andijon to catch the twice-weekly Jahon Bazaar and then cross the border to the bustling bazaar town of Osh, before swinging north along the mountain road to relaxed Bishkek. From Bishkek cross the border into Kazakhstan to cosmopolitan Almaty, visit the sights, attend the opera and make some excursions from the city before taking the train (or bus) to Ürümqi in China.

An alternative from Bishkek is to arrange transport through an agency to take you over the dramatic Torugart Pass, visiting the summer pastures around Kochkor and Son-Köl and the photogenic caravanserai at Tash Rabat, before crossing the pass to Kashgar. You can then continue along the northern or southern Silk Roads into China proper.

A third alternative if you are in a hurry is to travel from Osh by shared taxi into the high and scenic Alay Valley, before finally crossing the remote Irkeshtam Pass to Kashgar.

Itineraries

Kazakhstan – South to North

3 weeks

This Kazakh taster takes you from Central Asia into sub-Siberian northern Kazakhstan. From Tashkent it's a half-day trip across the border to vibrant Shymkent, with its Central Asian–style bazaars and chaikhanas (teahouses).

From here detour west to Turkestan to soak up Kazakhstan's only architectural masterpiece, the blue-domed 14th-century Timurid tomb of Kozha Akhmed Yasaui. Keep the historical vibe going with a side trip to the nearby ruined Silk Road city of Sauran and a visit south to Otrar, the spot where Chinggis (Genghis) Khan's troops first attacked Central Asia and where Timur (Tamerlane) breathed his last.

Back in Shymkent stock up on supplies before heading out for some rural hiking, horse riding and tulip-spotting at Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve or Sayram-Ugam National Park, both of which have homestays and ecotourism programs.

An overnight 'Silk Road by rail' train trip will drop you in Almaty, Kazakhstan's largest city. There is plenty to do here, including visiting the iconic Scythian-era Golden Man, before hitting Central Asia's most active cultural and club scene. Walk off the next day's hangover on a hike to Bolshoe Almatinskoe Lake, set in the lovely spurs of the Tian Shan.

From Almaty take the high-speed overnight train to the gritty coal city of Karaganda. Touch Soviet-era rocket parts at the excellent Ecological Museum and then take a sobering day trip to the former gulags at Dolinka and Spassk.

Just a few hours away across the steppe is the modern capital of Astana. After ogling the bizarre mix of architecture you can visit the Oceanarium and guess how far you are from the nearest sea (1700km).

Plenty of international flights serve Astana, but to continue exploring take a flight to Ust-Kamenogorsk and then a long drive to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi to start some fabulous hikes or horse treks through the valleys of the Altay, with views of mystical Mt Belukha. You'll need to arrange a tour a month or more in advance to get required permits.

Itineraries

Osh via the Pamir Highway

3 Weeks

This wild three-week jaunt ranks as one of the world's most beautiful and remote mountain-road trips and is not one to rush. Hire a vehicle for at least part of the way and do the drives in daylight.

There are several options to get to Penjikent. The border crossing between Samarkand and Penjikent remains frustratingly closed, so either fly from Dushanbe, or cross into Tajikistan from Uzbekistan at Oybek, transit through Khojand and continue through Istaravshan by shared taxi over the Shakhristan Pass.

In Penjikent you can check out the Sogdian-era archaeological site and then either hire a car for a day trip up to the Marguzor Lakes or arrange a taxi through the mountains to scenic lake Iskander-Kul ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Continue the taxi ride through stunning vertical scenery to Tajikistan's mellow capital Dushanbe, where you should budget a couple of days to arrange the flight, shared 4WD or hired car for the long but impressive trip along the Afghan border to Khorog in Gorno-Badakhshan.

You can drive from Khorog to Murgab in a day, but there are lots of interesting detours here, so take a full day to take in the beautiful Wakhan Valley and its storybook Yamchun and Abrashim forts. With hired transport, you can cut from Langar to the Pamir Hwy and continue to Murgab.

There are loads of side trips to be made from Murgab, so try to spend a few days here and visit a local yurt camp in the surrounding high pastures. Heading north, Kara Kul is a scenic highlight and worth at least a lunch stop or picnic. Once over the border in Kyrgyzstan at Sary-Tash, it's worth detouring 40km to Sary-Mogol for its fine views of towering Peak Lenin. For the absolute best views, overnight at the stunning Tulpar Köl yurtstay at the base of the peak. There are some fine day hikes from the yurt camp.

From here you can continue over the mountains to the Silk Road bazaar town of Osh or better still exit Central Asia via the Irkeshtam Pass to Kashgar.

Itineraries

Over the Torugart – Lakes, Herders and Caravanserais

3 Weeks

This trip takes in fabulous mountain scenery, a taste of traditional life in the pastures and the roller-coaster ride over the Torugart Pass to Kashgar. There are lots of opportunities for trekking or horse riding on this route.

Kick off with a couple of days in cosmopolitan Almaty, with visits to Panfilov Park and the Central State Museum and a soak in the Arasan Baths. It's an easy four-hour drive to Kyrgyzstan's capital Bishkek, from where you can head east to the blue waters and sandy beaches of Issyk-Köl, the world’s second-largest alpine lake.

For an adventurous alternative between Almaty and Issyk-Köl, hire transport to take you to the colourful, eroded Charyn Canyon and on to the Kyrgyz border through the immense, silent Karkara Valley to Karakol.

Spend a couple of days trekking or instead visit the alpine valleys around Karakol. The idyllic valley of Altyn-Arashan offers great scope for horse riding or the short trek to alpine Ala-Köl and the glorious Karakol Valley. If you have time you can explore the little-visited southern shore and visit an eagle-hunter en route to Kochkor. If you are low on time head straight to Kochkor from Bishkek.

In small and sleepy Kochkor take advantage of the Community Based Tourism (CBT) program and spend some time in a yurt or homestay on the surrounding jailoos (summer pastures). This is one of the best ways to glimpse traditional life in Kyrgyzstan. Try to allow three days to link a couple of yurtstays by horse, although most can be visited in an overnight trip. The most popular trip is to the herders' camps around peaceful Lake Son-Köl, either by car or on a two-day horseback trip. The pastures are popular with herders and their animals between June and August.

From here head to Naryn and then the Silk Road caravanserai of Tash Rabat, where you can stay overnight in yurts and even take an adventurous horse trip to a pass overlooking Chatyr-Köl. From Tash Rabat it's up over the Torugart Pass and into China to wonderful Kashgar for its epic Sunday Market.

Plan Your Trip

Visas & Permits

Visas and permits used be the single biggest headache associated with travel in ex-Soviet Central Asia, but things are much easier these years, with the notable exception of Turkmenistan. Visa regulations are getting easier every year, but there are still some potential pitfalls and our best advice remains 'start early and do your research'.

Visas at a Glance

Kyrgyzstan

The easiest: visa-free for most nationalities for stays of up to 60 days for both air and land entry; extensions are possible, or simply leave and reenter the country; no registration for tourists.

Tajikistan

Easily obtained online. Specify at time of application if the visit includes GBAO (ie Pamirs). Extensions are not possible. Registration is needed for tourist visas within 30 days in order to remain for the full 45 days.

Uzbekistan

No Letter of Invitation is needed for US citizens and most European nationalities for visas up to 30 days; visas are date-specific; extensions are impossible.

Kazakhstan

Most travellers do not need a visa for stays of up to 30 days; for another 30 days leave the country and reenter the next day; no extensions are possible; registration is not normally required but check.

Turkmenistan

The hardest: tourist visas are only possible with expensive prebooked tours and even then are unreliable; three- to five-day transit visas are possible with fixed dates and entry/exit points.

Visas

These are much easier to obtain than a few years ago. Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan are visa-free, Tajikistan has an easy online process, Uzbekistan is fairly easy and Turkmenistan is tricky.

Applying for a Visa

If you need a visa, applications can be made in person or via post at most of the republics' overseas embassies or consulates. If your country doesn't have Central Asian representation you'll have to courier your passport to the nearest embassy, arrange a visa on arrival, or arrange your itinerary to get the visa in another Central Asian republic or elsewhere en route.

Embassies will want the following documents:

A A photocopy of the validity and personal information pages of your passport (some Uzbekistan embassies require a copy of all passport pages, even blank ones).

A Anywhere between one and three passport-size photos.

A A completed application form, which you can generally download from the embassy website.

In addition to these, you will also need the following:

A At least six months' validity in your passport and two clean pages.

A Proof of onward transport (for a transit visa).

With the exception of Turkmenistan, visas do not list the towns to be visited. The tourist-visa application for Turkmenistan requires you to list the name of every town you want to visit, and most of these places, excluding the capital, will be printed on your visa.

Bear in mind that most visas have either fixed-entry dates or fixed-validity dates, so you will have to carefully plan the dates of your itinerary in advance. If you are weaving in and out of republics, eg from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan's Pamir Hwy, Kyrgyzstan and then back to Uzbekistan, you'll need to ensure that the first visa is still valid when you return to that republic (and that it's a double- or multiple-entry visa).

Even the most helpful Central Asian embassies in the West normally take a week to issue a visa. Many embassies will speed the process up for an express fee (often double the normal fee). Central Asian embassies within the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) seem to be quicker.

Visa payment sometimes has to be in a neighbouring bank, not the embassy itself, and you'll need to bring back the receipt as proof of payment.

Visas can be quite expensive, especially for US citizens who routinely pay much more for their visas than other nationalities (retaliation for the fees the US government charges Central Asian visa applicants). Budget a couple of hundred dollars for a multi-'Stan trip.

Try to allow time for delays and screw-ups. Errors do happen – check the dates and other information on your visa carefully before you hit the road and try to find out what the Cyrillic or other writing says.

Palace of Peace & Reconciliation, Astana, Kazakhstan | MEIRAM NURTAZIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Letters of Invitation

The key to getting a tourist visa for Turkmenistan or a business, longer-duration or multiple-entry visa or a visa on arrival for other republics is 'visa support', which means a letter of invitation (LOI), approved by the Ministries of Foreign Affairs and/or Interior, from a private individual, company or state organisation in the country you want to visit. After obtaining ministry approval, your sponsor (normally a travel agent) sends the invitation to you, and when you apply at a consular office for your visa it is matched with a copy sent directly to them from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

The cheapest way to get a visa invitation is directly through a Central Asian travel agency, many of whom will sell you a letter of visa support for between US$40 and US$100. Stantours (www.stantours.com) is one agency that is frequently recommended. A few Western travel agencies can arrange visa invitations, but charge up to five times the local fee.

Try to apply for letters of invitation a month, or preferably two months, in advance. Individual sponsors may need months to get their invitations approved before they can even be sent to you.

Visas on Arrival

If there's no convenient embassy in your country, you can get a visa on arrival at Astana and Almaty (in Kazakhstan, for visa-required nationalities), at Tashkent (Uzbekistan) and Ashgabat (Turkmenistan) airports, but normally only if you have a LOI and have arranged this in advance with your agency. A visa on arrival at Tashkent (Uzbekistan) is possible (with an LOI) but only if you come from a country without an Uzbekistan embassy. Visa-free entry at airports in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan make these the easiest fly-in options.

Responsible sponsors and agencies send representatives to meet their invitees at the airport and smooth their way through immigration. Even so, consular officials at the airport can be notoriously hard to find, especially if your flight arrives in the middle of the night, and they may not be able to find your records scribbled in their big black book.

You may also need to persuade the airline that you are guaranteed a visa as many are keen to avoid the costs and fines associated with bringing you back if your papers aren't in order. Bring a copy of your LOI and visa authorisation if you have one. Try to get a visa in advance if possible.

GETTING CURRENT INFORMATION

Online

Central Asia visa rules change all the time. The following websites are a good option for up-to-date visa information.

A Caravanistan ( www.caravanistan.com )

A Thorn Tree ( www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree )

A Stantours ( www.stantours.com )

Embassies

Central Asian embassies abroad offer comprehensive information on visas.

A Kazakhstan www.kazakhembus.com , www.kazconsulny.org , www.kazembassy.org.uk ; also www.mfa.gov.kz/en

A Kyrgyzstan www.kgembassy.org , www.kyrgyz-embassy.org.uk , www.botschaft-kirgisien.de

A Tajikistan www.tajemb.us , www.tajikembassy.be , www.tajembassy.org.uk , www.botschaft-tadschikistan.de

A Turkmenistan www.turkmenistanembassy.org , www.turkmenembassy.org.uk

A Uzbekistan www.uzbekconsulny.org , www.uzbekistan.org , www.uzbekistan.de , www.uzbekembassy.org , www.ouzbekistan.fr (in French)

Getting Central Asian Visas in Central Asia

If you are on a long overland trip it's possible to get your Central Asia visas en route in Central Asia, as long as you don't mind hanging around the Central Asian capitals for a few days (or even weeks) and spending a lot of time in visa queues. Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) is a good place to load up on Central Asian visas.

However, it's generally best to get a visa in your home country when possible.

CHINESE VISAS IN CENTRAL ASIA

Chinese visas are a real pain to organise in Central Asia, with most Chinese embassies now demanding a LOI, a letter from your employers, hotel bookings and even bank statements. The Chinese embassies in Almaty (Kazakhstan) and Dushanbe (Tajikistan) do not issue visas to nonresidents. Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) and Tashkent (Uzbekistan) change like the wind, but often refuse visas to nonresidents. The best advice is to get a Chinese visa before you set off, though remember that you must normally enter China within 90 days of a tourist visa being issued.

Transit & Multiple-Entry Visas

You might need transit visas for some trips even if you're not stopping in the country. For example, if you don't have a passport allowing you a visa-free stay, you will need a Kazakh transit visa to take the bus or train from Tashkent in Uzbekistan to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, or to take the train from Moscow to Tashkent, as both routes pass through Kazakhstan.

You may also need a multiple-entry visa to get back into the first country if your bus or train dips temporarily into a neighbouring republic (most likely in remote parts of the Fergana Valley).

Visa Extensions

Extending an ordinary tourist visa after you arrive is relatively easy in Kyrgyzstan but almost impossible in all the other republics. If you want a longer stay you may find it easier to get a business visa, or just travel to a neighbouring republic and arrange another tourist visa.

Visa Registration

This relic of the Soviet era allows officials to keep tabs on you once you’ve arrived.

A In Uzbekistan the hotel in which you stay the night should register you and give you a flimsy chit of paper. It's important to keep these.

A Kyrgyzstan has ended the need to register.

A In Kazakhstan tourists who enter the country generally do not need to register. Other travellers will get a white registration card: two stamps indicates you are registered; one stamp indicates you still need to register.

A Tourist-visa holders in Tajikistan only need to