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MC LC

BI 1: SN PHM MAY.............................................................................................1
1. nh ngha trang phc...........................................................................................1
2. Chc nng ca trang phc.....................................................................................1
3. Phn loi trang phc..............................................................................................1
4. M ha trang phc.................................................................................................1
5. Yu cu ca sn phm may....................................................................................2
6. Ch tiu cht lng................................................................................................2
BI 2: HNH THC SN XUT TRONG NGNH MAY.........................................3
1. Phng php thit k trang phc ..........................................................................3
1.1. Lch s pht trin cc phng php thit k trang phc.................................3
1.2. Phng php thit k trang phc....................................................................3
1.3. So snh phng php thit k.........................................................................3
2. Thit k mu sn phm..........................................................................................3
3. Hnh thc sn xut trong ngnh may.....................................................................4
3.1. Hnh thc sn xut..........................................................................................4
3.2. So snh cc hnh thc sn xut.......................................................................4
BI 3: QUY TRNH SN XUT NGNH MAY.......................................................5
1. Qu trnh chun b sn xut...................................................................................5
1.1. Nghin cu th trng....................................................................................5
1.2. Nghin cu kh nng sn xut........................................................................5
1.3. Thit k mu m thut ca sn phm mi......................................................5
1.4. Thit k k thut.............................................................................................5
1.5. Thit k cng ngh.........................................................................................5
1.6. Chun b nguyn vt liu................................................................................5
2. Quy trnh sn xut..................................................................................................6
BI 4: M HNH T CHC CA CC CNG TY MAY.........................................7
1. i tng khch hng............................................................................................7
2. M hnh hot ng may o....................................................................................7
3. M hnh hot ng may cng nghip....................................................................7
BI 5: PHNG PHP MAY.....................................................................................8

1. nh ngha.............................................................................................................8
2. Yu cu ng may...............................................................................................8
3. Mi quan h kim ch vi........................................................................................8
3.1. Chn kim may................................................................................................8
3.2. Chn ch may.................................................................................................9
BI 6: QU TRNH GIA CNG NHIT M...........................................................11
1. nh ngha...........................................................................................................11
2. Mc ch qu trnh gia cng nhit m..................................................................11
3. Cc hnh thc gia cng nhit m..........................................................................11
4. Trang thit b.......................................................................................................11
5. Vai tr ca hi nc, nhit , lc p v thi gian..............................................11
6. Phng php xc nh thng s...........................................................................11
7. Phn bit qu trnh l...........................................................................................12
8. Yu cu qu trnh gia cng nhit m....................................................................12
9. ng dng.............................................................................................................12
BI 7: QUN L CHT LNG.............................................................................13
1. nh ngha...........................................................................................................13
2. Nhm ch tiu cht lng sn phm dt may.......................................................13
3. Cht lng to ra trong qu trnh.........................................................................13
4. Cc h thng qun l cht lng..........................................................................13
5. Mt s h thng qun l cht lng thng gp..................................................14
6. Thc hin 5S........................................................................................................14
BI 8: CC NG MAY, MI MAY C BN....................................................15
1. Cc mi may c bn............................................................................................15
1.1. Mi may tht nt .........................................................................................15
1.2. Mi may mc xch n ................................................................................15
1.3. Mi may mc xch kp ................................................................................15
1.4. Mi may vt s ............................................................................................15
1.5. Mi may chn diu ......................................................................................16
2. Cc ng may c bn........................................................................................16
BI 9: THIT B K THUT MAY..........................................................................17
1. Thit b may.........................................................................................................17

2. Thit b ct...........................................................................................................17
3. Thit b hn dn...................................................................................................17
4. Thit b th nghim, kim tra...............................................................................17
BI 10: NH MC NGUYN PH LIU...............................................................18
1. nh ngha...........................................................................................................18
2. Mc ch.............................................................................................................. 18
3. Phng php tnh nh mc nguyn ph liu......................................................18
4. Phng php tnh nh mc thi gian..................................................................18
5. Ti u ha qu trnh sn xut..............................................................................18
BI 11: CC LOI NGUYN PH LIU NGNH MAY.......................................19
1. Ruy bng..............................................................................................................19
2. Dy .....................................................................................................................19
3. Kha nha...........................................................................................................19
4. Tht lng.............................................................................................................19
5. Kha Vencro........................................................................................................19
6. Kha ko..............................................................................................................19
7. Mex...................................................................................................................... 19
8. Chun....................................................................................................................19
BI 12: KT CU CC CM CHI TIT SN PHM.............................................20
1. Kt cu ti...........................................................................................................20
1.1. Ti p...........................................................................................................20
1.2. Ti 2 vin r c np......................................................................................21
1.3. Ti dc.........................................................................................................22
1.4. Ti ci..........................................................................................................23
2. Kt cu c o.......................................................................................................24
2.1. o khng c.................................................................................................24
2.2. Cc loi c o...............................................................................................25
3. Kt cu tay o......................................................................................................26
4. Kt cu gu qun, gu o.....................................................................................27
5. Kt cu np o.....................................................................................................27
BI 13: XY DNG TI LIU K THUT............................................................28
1. Nghin cu n hng v sn phm sn xut........................................................28

2. Thit k mu k thut...........................................................................................28
2.1. Thit k mu mng.......................................................................................28
2.2. Nhy mu :...................................................................................................28
2.3. Thit k mu sn xut:..................................................................................28
3. Thit k cng ngh..............................................................................................29
4. Xy dng qui trnh cng ngh may sn phm......................................................31
BI 14: XY DNG QUY TRNH MAY SN PHM............................................32
1. Nguyn tc chung................................................................................................32
2. S khi gia cng sn phm............................................................................33
3. Xy dng qui trnh phn tch cng ngh may (s cy)....................................34
BI 15: LP K HOCH SN XUT......................................................................36
1. Khi nim............................................................................................................36
2. Mc ch v yu cu ca lp k hoch sn xut...................................................36
3. Trnh t lp k hoch...........................................................................................36

BI GING CNG NGH MAY I


1. Tn hc phn

: Cng ngh may I.

2. S n v hc trnh

: 3 VHT = 45 tit.

3. Trnh

: i hc thit k thi trang nm th nht.

4. Phn b thi gian

: K II.

5. iu kin tin quyt

: Khng.

6. Mc tiu ca hc phn:
- Trang b nhng kin thc c bn v thit k v sn xut sn phm may mc.
- Trang b nhng kin thc c bn v cu trc v phng php gia cng cc chi
tit c bn trn qun o.
- Thit k ti liu k thut n hng.
7. M t vn tt ni dung hc phn:
-

Qu trnh sn xut sn phm may.

Phng php gia cng cc chi tit.

Thit k ti liu k thut n hng

8. Nhim v ca sinh vin:


-

Nghin cu cc ti liu, gio trnh cng ngh may.

Lm y cc bi tp vn dng.

9. Ti liu hc tp:
-

L Th Kiu Lin, H Th Minh Hng, Cng ngh may, Nh xut bn HQG


TP H Ch Minh; 2003.

Nguyn Minh H, Qun l sn xut ngnh may cng nghip, NXB HQG TP
H Ch Minh, 2006.

Trn Thy Bnh, Gio trnh cng ngh may, NXB Gio dc,2005.

10. Tiu chun nh gi sinh vin:


-

S gi hc trn lp v thi hc tp.

Kt qu cc bi kim tra v thi hc phn.

11. Thang im: Chm theo thang im 10, khng cho im l.


12. Ni dung chi tit hc phn:

BI 1: SN PHM MAY
1. nh ngha trang phc
-

Sn phm che ph, bo v v lm p

Vt dng cn thit i vi con ngi

Trang phc l kt qu ca qu trnh pht trin x hi

2. Chc nng ca trang phc


-

Chc nng s dng (useful)


o Chc nng bo v (protection): bo v, che ch con ngi trc nhng
tc ng ca mi trng
o Chc nng sinh l hc (phisiology): to iu kin thun li, tin nghi cho
con ngi sinh hot, lao ng

Chc nng x hi ( society )


o Chc nng vn ha ( culture ) : th hin mi quan h con ngi vi t
nhin, con ngi vi con ngi
o Chc nng thng tin ( information ) : th hin thng tin v ngi mc
o Chc nng thm m ( beauty ) : nng cao v p ca con ngi

3. Phn loi trang phc


-

i tng s dng ( user ) :


o Theo gii tnh ( sexual, gender )
oTheo la tui ( age )

iu kin kh hu ( climate ) :
o2 ma : thu ng ( fall winter ), xun h
o4 ma : xun, h, thu, ng
-

iu kin s dng ( condition ) : th thao, biu din

Chc nng s dng trn c th ( useful ) :


o lt, qun o ngoi, qun o m, qun o nh

Chc nng chuyn dng ( expert ) :


oQun o ng, qun o l phc, qun o bo h

Theo cu trc ( structure ) : qun, o, vy

4. M ha trang phc
-

Mc ch : k hiu v phn bit

- Phng php m ha : s, m vch


- Thng tin quy nh m ha : ngun gc, vt liu
5. Yu cu ca sn phm may
-

Yu cu s dng:
o S ph hp kch thc, hinh dng ca sn phm vi c
th ngi mc
o S thoi mi v tin nghi v sinh l cho con ngi khi s
dng sn phm
o tin cy trong qu trinh s dng sn phm

Yu cu thm m:
o S ph hp ca kiu dng, t l, b cc v mu sc vi
xu hng ca mt
o

Hinh thc hp l ca nhn hiu v bao gi sn phm

o Yu cu v thm m i vi cc ng may rp ni trn


o

qun o: mi ch p v ng yu cu,...

6. Ch tiu cht lng


-

Ch tiu v ngoi quan - thm m

Ch tiu v cng thi trang phc

Ch tiu v k thut

BI 2: HNH THC SN XUT TRONG NGNH MAY


1. Phng php thit k trang phc
1.1. Lch s pht trin cc phng php thit k trang phc
Thi k nguyn thu, qun o lm t tm da th hoc v cy

mm c bn t l cy, khoc ln ngi mt cch vng v v


th s.
Thi k c i nhng tm vi c ct thnh nhng hnh

ch nht, hnh trn ri khot cc l chui u v cho tay


vo, s dng cc dy buc eo, ngc qun o m st ly
c th hn
Th k 13, 14 qun o c chia ct thnh nhiu mnh, ph

hp vi hnh dng v hot ng ca con ngi => hinh thnh


cng thc thit k
Th k 20 qun ao c sn xut coong nghip.

1.2. Phng php thit k trang phc


-

Phng php thit k trn mancanh


o

Dng trong cc tim may, thit k n l .

Phng php thit k theo cng thc tnh ton.


o

H cng thc may o.

H cng thc may cng nghip.

1.3. So snh phng php thit k


-

Cng thc thit k.

Du hiu kch thc c th ngi s dng thit k trang phc.

Lng gia gim thit k.

Phng php dng hnh.

Qu trnh xy dng bn v thit k.

Mc chnh xc.

Mc thun tin.

2. Thit k mu sn phm
- Thit k mu may o :
o Nghin cu th trng khu vc hp.
o V thit k trang phc theo s thch tng khch hng.

o May theo h cng thc may o.


- Thit k mu cng nghip :
o Nghin cu th trng trn quy m rng.
oV thit k trang phc theo s thch ca s ng khch hng.
oMay theo h cng thc may cng nghip.
3. Hnh thc sn xut trong ngnh may
3.1. Hnh thc sn xut
-

May cng nghip: sn xut hng lot.

May th cng: sn xut theo quy m nh.

3.2. So snh cc hnh thc sn xut


-

i tng khch hng.

Sn phm.

Mc chuyn mn ha.

T chc sn xut.

Trnh k thut.

Chi ph sn xut.

BI 3: QUY TRNH SN XUT NGNH MAY


1. Qu trnh chun b sn xut
1.1. Nghin cu th trng
-

i tng s dng: gii tnh, la tui, c s, th hiu tiu dng,...

iu kin vn ha x hi, xu hng mt, iu kin kinh t.

iu kin v mi trng s dng.

1.2. Nghin cu kh nng sn xut


-

Trnh k thut.

Con ngi.

Vn.

Trang thit b.

C s vt cht.

T chc, qun l.

1.3. Thit k mu m thut ca sn phm mi


-

Thit k mu c bn.

Thit k mu c s.

Thit k mu mi.

Thit k mu sn xut.

1.4. Thit k k thut


-

Xy dng bn v thit k.

Thit k mu k thut: mu mng, mu sn xut.

Gic mu.

Xy dng ti liu thit k k thut sn phm.

1.5. Thit k cng ngh


-

Xy dng quy trnh cng ngh sn xut (ct, may, hon tt).

Xy dng cc nh mc: vt liu, thi gian.

Xy dng ti liu k thut cng ngh sn phm.

1.6. Chun b nguyn vt liu


-

Chun b nguyn liu.

Chun b ph liu.

2. Quy trnh sn xut


-

Qu trnh x vi.

Qu trnh tri vi.

Qu trnh ct vi.

Lin kt rp ni.

Hon tt sn phm.

Giao hng nhp kho.

BI 4: M HNH T CHC CA CC CNG TY MAY


1. i tng khch hng
May cng nghip ( industrial garment ).
- Th trng trong nc ( domestic ).
- Th trng nc ngoi ( foreign ): cc cng ty nc ngoi thu gia cng sn
phm, pht trin mu.
- Chng loi mu n gin, t thay i.
May o ( fashion designer ).
- Khch hng n l.
- Chng loi mu a dng theo yu cu ca tng khch hng.
2. M hnh hot ng may o
-

Cng thc thit k may o.

Thit k mu cho khch hng n l, theo yu cu ca khch hng.

T chc sn xut n gin.

3. M hnh hot ng may cng nghip


M hnh 1: Cng ty gia cng sn phm theo mu ca khch hng.
a s cc cng ty may Vit Nam hin nay t chc theo hnh thc ny.
Cng ty ch thc hin qu trnh gia cng sn phm theo mu ca khch hng trong v
ngoi nc. Sn phm mang thng hiu ca khch hng. Gi tr lao ng thp, do
tin gia cng sn phm rt r.
M hnh 2: Cng ty thit k mu, sn xut v phn phi sn phm.
Cng ty ph trch ton b qu trnh t nghin cu th trng, thit k
mu, sn xut v phn phi sn phm ra th trng. Cng ty xy dng thng hiu
ring cho sn phm. Gi tr thng d do sn phm mang li cao.

BI 5: PHNG PHP MAY


1. nh ngha
- S lin kt ca cc lp vi s dng kim v ch.
2. Yu cu ng may
-

Yu cu ngoi quan.
+ Hnh dng ng yu cu.
+ Khng b mi.
+ Li mi chc chn.

Yu cu k thut
+ u mi.
+ Cu trc mi may ng tiu chun.
+ Mt mi may ng yu cu.
+ bn ng may.

3. Mi quan h kim ch vi
3.1. Chn kim may
3.1.1. Lch s kim may
-

Kim khu tay


+ Lch s.
+ ng dng kim khu tay.

Kim my
+ Lch s : pht minh bi Charles 1755.
+ ng dng kim may.

3.1.2. Nhim v kim may


-

m xuyn.

Mang ch qua vi.

Tham gia qu trnh to mi


-

S lin kt ca cc lp vi s dng kim v ch.

3.1.3. Cu to kim may


-

Kim khu tay.

Kim khu my.

3.1.4. Chn dng kim may

Theo cu trc ng may


+ ng may tht nt.
+ ng may vt s.
+ ng may ln.

Chn dng mi kim


+ Nhn : ct, m xuyn. Dng cho vi dt thoi.
+ Bi : gt si vi, m xuyn. Dng cho vi dt kim.
+ Trn : gt si vi, m xuyn. Dng cho vi dt kim.

Chn tit din mi kim


+ Trn.
+ Thoi
+ Thu knh.
+ Tam gic.

Chn s hiu kim


+ Chn ng knh kim.
+ Chn chiu di thn kim.

3.2. Chn ch may


3.2.1. Nhim v ch may
-

Lin kt vt liu

Trang tr

3.2.2. Cu to ch may
-

Ch xe

Ch n

Ch li

3.2.3. Phng php chn ch may


-

Chn chi s ch :
+ Chi s ch : n v o dy, mnh ca ch
+ dy thc t nh hn dy rnh kim

Thnh phn ch
+ bn ca ch so vi vi
+ Thnh phn ca ch so vi vi

Mu ch :

+ Ch may trang tr
+ Ch may cng mu vi vi
3.2.4. Yu cu chung ca ch may
-

Bn

Khng c mu gt, ni, ch trn nhn

Mm mi

nh bng tt

Cn bng xon

Khng sn

Khng nhit

10

BI 6: QU TRNH GIA CNG NHIT M


1. nh ngha
L tc ng ng thi hoc ring r nhit , p sut v hi m ln b
mt ca vi nhm loi b trng thi c v t n trng thi mi
2. Mc ch qu trnh gia cng nhit m
-

Lm phng nhng np gp khng mong mun

To nhng np gp theo yu cu

nh dng sn phm may theo hnh dng c th

Chun b cho nhng ng s may

Hon tt sn phm sau qu trnh may

3. Cc hnh thc gia cng nhit m


-

Xng hi

4. Trang thit b
-

Bn l

My i hi

My p to form

Bn l hi v h thng cp hi

5. Vai tr ca hi nc, nhit , lc p v thi gian


-

m to kh nng mm ha x, si

Nhit to kh nng tng cng linh ng ca phn t

Lc p c tc dng nh hnh li b mt sn phm

Thi gian tc ng n s nh hnh cu trc mi ca sn phm

6. Phng php xc nh thng s


Nhit l
-

180-200 C cho bng, len

160-180 C cho visco

160 C cho vi la t tm

140 C cho la axetat

120 C cho vi PET

11

7. Phn bit qu trnh l


-

L th cng lm nng bn l bng si t

L cng nghip lm nng bn l bng hi nc

p s dng nhit , p sut hi m cao, thi gian di

8. Yu cu qu trnh gia cng nhit m


bai dn

To c trng thi b mt vi nh yu cu cn thit: phng, np gp,

Khng lm gim cht lng ca vi v cc vt liu trang tr: khng chy,


xm, c mi, bin mu
-

Gi c trng thi trong mt khong thi gian nht nh

9. ng dng
-

To hnh dng cho cc chi tit

To cc np gp

L r ng may

L phng b mt

Dn dng

L co, l bai

12

BI 7: QUN L CHT LNG


1. nh ngha
-

Ph hp vi mc ch

Tt m khng t

ng yu cu a ra

Bn ra m khng b tr li

2. Nhm ch tiu cht lng sn phm dt may


-

Nhm ch tiu cng dng

Nhm ch tiu tin cy

Nhm ch tiu thm m

Nhm ch tiu thng nht ha v tiu chun ha

Nhm ch tiu cng ngh

Nhm ch tiu d vn chuyn

Nhm ch tiu khuyt tt

Nhm ch tiu kinh t k thut

Nhm ch tiu an ton

3. Cht lng to ra trong qu trnh


-

Qu trnh hnh thnh tng

Thit k

Chun b sn xut

Sn xut

Kim tra, th nghim

Phn phi sn phm

Dch v sau bn hng

4. Cc h thng qun l cht lng


-

Kim tra cht lng

Kim sot cht lng

m bo cht lng

Qun l cht lng

Qun l cht lng ton din

13

5. Mt s h thng qun l cht lng thng gp


-

H thng qun l mi trng theo tiu chun ISO 14000

H thng qun l cht lng ISO 9001

H thng qun l trch nhim x hi SA 8000

6. Thc hin 5S
L hot ng c s cho mi ci tin hng vo vic loi tr cc lng ph, bt
hp l ti ni lm vic. Thc hin ti tt c cc khu vc lm vic.
-

Sng lc : Phn loi cc vt dng khng cn thit v loi b chng

Sp xp: ng th t khi cn c th s dng ngay lp tc

Lm sch: Lun gi cc vt dng trong iu kin sch s, d dng kim

Sn sc: Gi ni lm vic lun sch s, thut tin

tra.
Sn sng: o to v hng dn cho mi ngi v quy nh ni lm vic
v hnh ng khc ph mi ngi tun th theo.

14

BI 8: CC NG MAY, MI MAY C BN
1. Cc mi may c bn
1.1. Mi may tht nt
-

K hiu 300

Tnh cht
Mi may bn cht
Mt trn v di ging nhau
Ch di b gii hn => gim nng sut
ng may km n hi

dng cho vi dt thoi, da, nh cc, di b


1.2. Mi may mc xch n
-

K hiu 100

Tnh cht

Mi may km bn, d tut

Thc hin c theo 1 chiu

ng may n hi

dng cho my khu ming bao, vt du mi, nh cc


1.3. Mi may mc xch kp
-

K hiu 400

Tnh cht
Mi may c bn n nh
Ch di khng b gii hn, tiu hao ch nhiu
Thc hin c theo 1 chiu
ng may n hi

dng may ng thng cho tt c cc nguyn liu, cp qun, gu o


1.4. Mi may vt s
-

K hiu 500

Tnh cht
Mi may c bn n nh, n hi
Ch di khng b gii hn, tiu hao ch nhiu
Thc hin c theo 1 chiu

15

Cn dao xn mp
dng may bc mp
1.5. Mi may chn diu
-

K hiu 600

Tnh cht

Mi may c bn n nh

Ch di khng b gii hn, tiu hao ch nhiu

Thc hin c theo 1 chiu

n hi ca mi may ln

dng may ni mp vi, trang tr


2. Cc ng may c bn
-

ng may can

ng may vin gt m

ng may vin cun kn m

ng may vin gt m

ng may diu lt

ng may cun tri m

ng may cun phi m

ng may vin r lt khe

ng may vin kp l

ng may vin bc kn m

16

BI 9: THIT B K THUT MAY


1. Thit b may
-

My may mt kim thng

My may mt kim mc xch

My may mt kim xn

My may hai kim

My Kansai

My trn

My vt s

My tha khuyt

My di b

My thu

My may ziczac

2. Thit b ct
-

Laser cutting machine/My ct laser

Portable ultrasonic/My ultra cm tay

Ultrasonic punching mc/My c l ultrasonic

Hydrostatic press machine/My dp thu lc

My ct y tay

My ct vng

My ct t ng

3. Thit b hn dn
-

Ultrasonic cutting machine / My ct ultrasonic

Seam sealing machine / My dn

Small heat/cold press machine / My cp hai u c b

Long hot/cold press machine / My cp di

High frequency machine / My cao tn

Ultrasonic stitching machine / My ultrasonic stitching

4. Thit b th nghim, kim tra


-

Hydrostatic test machine/My th nc

Tensile test machine/My th ko

17

BI 10: NH MC NGUYN PH LIU


1. nh ngha
Tnh ton s lng nguyn ph liu v thi gian cn cho sn xut.
2. Mc ch
-

m bo qu trnh sn xut c thc hin

Ch ng trong qu trnh sn xut, k kt hp ng

Tit kim chi ph v thi gian

3. Phng php tnh nh mc nguyn ph liu


-

Tnh nh mc ph liu: phng php m, cn, o c

Tnh nh mc ch: Ch = di ng may x H s

Tnh nh mc vi:
o S dng kinh nghim, c lng, o c
o S dng my tnh

4. Phng php tnh nh mc thi gian


-

Thi gian tri vi


o T/G Tri = TG Tri 1 lp x S lp

Thi gian ct vi
o Tnh ton v bm gi ( tng t thi gian tri )
o My tnh t ng tnh
o Phng php phn tch qu trnh

Thi gian may


o Tnh ton v bm gi ( tng t thi gian tri )
o My tnh t ng tnh
o Phng php phn tch qu trnh

5. Ti u ha qu trnh sn xut
Tnh ton chnh xc nh mc nguyn ph liu v nh mc thi gian
t chc sn xut t hiu qu cao nht.

18

BI 11: CC LOI NGUYN PH LIU NGNH MAY


1. Ruy bng
2. Dy
3. Kha nha
-

Kha nha c hm l xo iu chnh di ca dy

4. Tht lng
5. Kha Vencro
Kha dn Vencro c cu to t 2 lp: 1 lp mc v 1 lp vng. Khi
dnh vo nhau, cc mc s lin kt vng to dnh cho kha.
6. Kha ko
-

Kha ko t ng kha autolock

Kha ko bn t ng semilock: kha khi gt cn kha xung di

Kha ko thng: d b tut, khng c chc nng t kha, t c s

dng
7. Mex
sn phm.

Mex c nhim v dn dng ln sn phm, to cng v to form cho

Mex cu to gm cc ht keo dnh trn b mt vi hoc giy. Khi gia


nhit, keo s chy ra v dnh ln b mt sn phm, to cng cho b mt sn phm.
8. Chun
Chun c cu to t nhng kiu dt n hi v cc loi vt liu c tnh
cht n hi cao nh PU

19

BI 12: KT CU CC CM CHI TIT SN PHM


1. Kt cu ti

Chi tit cha cc vt dng nh hoc trang tr, c may ln qun o.

Chc nng: s dng, trang tr

V tr, kch thc, cu trc: ph thuc vo loi qun o, mt, thch c


nhn, kch thc ca sn phm

Gm 2 phn: ming ti, thn ti

Tn gi: theo chc nng s dng, v tr, cu trc, c im, hnh dng

1.1. Ti p
-

May p vo thn sn phm

Ti p trong, p ngoi: trn o smi, o khoc, qun, tic np hoc


khng c np
-

Thn ti: 1 mnh hoc nhiu mnh can vi nhau.

Gia cng ti p:
o Gia cng np ti
o Gia cng thn ti
o nh du v tr ti trn thn sn phm
o May ti v np ti vo thn sn phm

20

Yu cu ca ti p
-

Cc yu cu v ngoi quan: (kim tra bng mt)

Khng c vt bn, loang , li si, thng rch, khc mu gia cc chi tit

ng may m phng, u mi, khng ni ch trn b mt, mi may cn


bng, li mi chc chn

Hnh dng ca thn ti v np ti ng yu cu, vi tr tng i ca np


v ti ng

Yu cu v kch thc: (kim tra bng thc)

Cc kch thc v v tr ca ti trn thn sn phm

Cc kch thuc ca ti: di, rng, vt

Cc yu cu v k thut may: (kim tra tng th)

ng may l u hay cp ch

1.2. Ti 2 vin r c np
ng dng
-

Ti o vest

Ti 2 vin khng np dng cho ti sau qun u, qun kaki

Quy trnh gia cng

21

May can ti o

May ci ti, np ti vo thn o

May cp bao ti ( ko cn thit )

May p ti vo bao ti

May bao ti vo vin ti

May xung quanh bao ti

1.3. Ti dc
-

Ming ti nm dc theo ng can ni 2 mnh

Cc loi ti dc:

Dc r

Dc lt

Dc cho

Dc cho c vin

ng dng: Qun, vy, o jacket, i khi trn o smi

Gia cng ti dc

May p ti vo bao ti

May ti vo thn sn phm

May y ti

nh b

22

Cc chi tit
Thn sn phm
Bao ti

p ti

vin ti

1.4. Ti ci
-

Ming ti ct vo thn sn phm, c ci ti vi bn rng

o gil, o vt, jacket, mng t

Cc chi tit:

Thn sn phm

Ci ti, dng dn ci ti

p ti

Bao ti

23

2. Kt cu c o
-

Cm chi tit bao quanh c o, o vy

Trng tm ca sn phm

Nhiu dng kt cu theo loi o

Gi m, lm thong mt

2.1. o khng c
-

ng vin c c gia cng chc chc

ng vin c - ng cong nhn, gp khc.

C vin c (ng cong nhn)

C p c

C c vin v p c (vin bn rng)

Vin c

Vi dt thoi ct cho si (45o)

Vi dt kim ct bng ngang

Di vin chuyn dng (c dt sn): ren, ng ten, ruy bng

Cng mu hoc khc mu vi chnh

Khng dy hn vi thn o

May vo thn o bng my 1kim, my chn vin

p c

Ct t vi chnh

Hnh dng ging ng vng c

Bn rng 3-6cm

Dn dng mm tng cng, bn

May nhn c, nhn trang tr p sau

24

Gia cng c o

Gia cng phn b lt (c o)

May c vo chn c (nu c)

Chun b thn o: may vai con

May c vo thn o

2.2. Cc loi c o
-

Yu cu ngoi quan:

Khng c vt bn, phn, khc mu, loang , li vi

C o cn i, m phng.

Cc ng diu c mt ngoi khng ni ch.

Gc c ti vai con khng rm, khng rch.

ng tra c thn sau m c hai mt.

Hnh dng phn b lt ca c ng yu cu, che kn ng may chn c.

m bo kch thc:

Bn c.

Bn rng phn b lt.

Chn c

u c (nu c).

Yu cu k thut may:

ng may sng c l, cp ch.

2 lp c trn v di mo u khi b c khng thiu lp


trn.

Gc c u vai con m phng, khng rm.

2.2.1. C b chn ri

2.2.2. C b ve

25

2.2.3. C sen

3. Kt cu tay o
ng dng :
-

Tay o s mi

Tay o bo h lao ng

Quy trnh gia cng


1. May m vin nh thp tay
2. May m vin ln thp tay
3. May ln bc tay
4. May chp bc tay vi tay o
5. May m bc tay vo tay o
6. May diu xung quanh bc tay

26

4. Kt cu gu qun, gu o
Gu qun v gu o c kt cu tng i n gin
-

May cun c vt s hoc khng vt s, c th s dng my vt gu


du ng may.

5. Kt cu np o
Phn ci cc hoc ko kho hoc giao nhau ng mp (gia thn
trc ngi) ca o
Chc nng: ci m cc, kho, dy buc; chia thn trc thnh 2 phn
theo chiu dc; trang tr.
-

Dng ci cc, ko kho, buc dy, ci, bung

Mp np c dng ng thng ng, xin, cong, gp khc

Nm gia thn trc, xin, lch mt bn

Np c ct lin vi thn o: smi, o vy

Np ct ri thn o: tit kim vi, mp np l ng gp khc, cong, np


giao nhau

27

BI 13: XY DNG TI LIU K THUT


1. Nghin cu n hng v sn phm sn xut
kiu dng.

Nghin cu tn m hng, chng loi sn phm, loi nguyn liu chnh,

c im k thut ca sn phm:

Bn v k thut, m t sn phm.

2. Thit k mu k thut
2.1. Thit k mu mng
T mu thit k trn kch thc sn phm, mu mng c thit k t mu thit
k sn phm tnh thm lng d gia cng.
-

Thng tin th hin trn mu mng:

Tn chi tit.

C s: c M.

S lng chi tit trn mt sn phm.

ng may v ng ct, chiu rng ng may.

lch canh si cho php

2.2. Nhy mu :
-

Chn phng php nhy mu:

Trong di c s thit k, cc c s cch u nhau: Xy dng s nhy

mu:

2.3. Thit k mu sn xut:


- Thit k mu gic s :

28

Mu gic s c xy dng t mu mng bng cch sao mu mong


ln ba cng v ct theo ng ct mu.

Vic sao c thc hin bng bt ch, to ca nt v nh hn 0.1cm,


ct mu chnh gia nt v.

Trn mu gic s th hin cc thng tin:


o Tn chi tit.
o C s sn phm.
o S lng chi tit trn mt sn phm.
o lch canh si cho php.

Gic mu:

- Xc nh cc nguyn tc gic mu
- Trnh t gic mu:
o Kim tra c s v s lng cc b mu cng s gic trn s .
o Kim tra s lng chi tit ca mi b mu cng.
o Vch hai ng bin ca s .
o Sp xp cc mu cng trn s : gic cc mu ln trc, sau n
cc mu trung bnh v cui cng l cc mu nh.
- Yu cu:
o t mt phi ca mu ln trn.
o lch canh si thc t nh hn hoc bng lnh canh si cho php.
o Kt hp cc mu ln v mu trung bnh to thnh nhng vng trng
trong s dng gic mu nh.
o Cc ng ct thng ca mu ln c quay ra mp ngoi ca s , cc
ng ct cong quay vo trong.
o Cc chi tit c th xp theo c hai chiu.
- Xy dng s gic mu:
Chn phng php gic: do yu cu s lng sn xut ca n hng v kch
thc ti u ca bn tri vi ta chn phng php gic s : Phng php gic ghp.
Gic phi hp gic cc c trn cng mt s gic
3. Thit k cng ngh
-

Kt cu cc ng lin kt v cm chi tit trn sn phm.

Lp bng kt cu cc ng lin kt

29

STT Tn ng lin kt

Kt cu lin
kt

30

Thit b s dng Tm Ghi ch

Lp bng kt cu cm chi tit trn sn phm

STT Tn chi tit Kt cu cm chi tit Gii thch k hiu Thit b s dng
4. Xy dng qui trnh cng ngh may sn phm.
-

S khi lp rp sn phm.

S lp rp sn phm.

31

BI 14: XY DNG QUY TRNH MAY SN PHM


1. Nguyn tc chung
-

Nghin cu sn phm:

Xem xt kiu dng sn phm : loi kiu dng no nh hng n cc


ng may v cu trc, yu cu cc ng may, qu trnh thc hin ng may.
Sn phm: b st, na b st chi tit cc ng chu vi l ng cong,
chit, ng can ni, sn l ng cong.
-

Qu trnh may: im rp ni (ngang eo, ngang ngc) rt quan trng, phi

khp.
mp vi.

ng may cong nn mp ng may khng c qu rng, l r, gin

Rng, thng, thng: c nhiu ng may theo chiu si dc d b nhn


nhng cho php khng cn l r, cun khng cn l bai gin mp sn phm, mp
ng may rng hn.
-

K thut ghim, l gi np gp l rt quan trng

Cu trc cc chi tit ca sn phm.

S lng chi tit, hnh dng chi tit: iu ny nh hng n s bc


cng vic, nh hng n kh d khi thc hin ng may ng thi s lng cc
chi tit cng cho ta mt phng n khi lc rp ni cc chi tit vi nhau v nu c
qu nhiu chi tit qu nh th hon ton c th qui chng v mt cm no , mt khc
cng c c mt s cn nhc v la chn vi nhng hnh dng c bit ca nhng
chi tit to thnh sn phm.
-

Nghin cu vt liu d to nn sn phm

c im ca vt liu c tc ng ln khi chn cu trc cho mt ng


may ti v tr no . ng may phi c chn sao cho cch may ph hp vi Vt
liu, vi yu cu s dng v thm m sn phm, iu kin thit b ca doanh nghip
sn xut, tnh kinh t khi gia cng v ph hp vi tay ngh cng nhn
Tnh cht vt liu s tc ng n vic cn cc thit b v dng c h tr
nh th no trong qu trnh may.
-

VD: g, c, thm ch vt liu cn qui nh c kiu dng sn phm.

c im kiu mu
Vi cc loi qun o cng t mt loi vt liu nhng cc kiu mu c th
khc nhau th s c cu trc, c th ring cu trc cc ng rp ni iu ny do cng
dng, thm m ca sn phm to nn.

32

Nghin cu la chn cch gia cng thch hp cho tng ng may.

Yu cu k thut may ca mu

Nguyn tc chung lp rp sn phm

Gia cng cc cm chi tit c lp (gia cng thn trc, may chit, may
can ni cc mnh, ; gia cng thn sau: xp ly, can ni,)
-

May cc cm chi tit vi nhau.

2. S khi gia cng sn phm.


L mt s dng gin lc cho thy cc cm gia cng chi tit sn
phm v cc cng on lp ghp chnh. Qua s ny ta c th thy: trnh t gia cng
cc cm, lien h gia chng cho thy tng th qu trnh gia cng m khng phi chi
tit. nh gi s hp l ca trnh t rp ni gia cc cm.
S khi o s mi nam

S khi qun u nam

33

3. Xy dng qui trnh phn tch cng ngh may (s cy).


M t v hon chnh.
K hiu

M t k hiu
Nguyn cng thc hin trn my mt kim mi thoi
Nguyn cng thc hin trn my chuyn dng
Nguyn cng th cng
Nguyn cng gim st, kim tra
Nguyn cng gim st, kim tra cht lng
Nguyn cng chun b bn thnh phm, nguyn liu, ph liu
Hon tt sn phm, lu kho

M hnh biu din mt nguyn cng


1. Tn ca chi tit may
2. Tn nguyn cng.
3. Thit b s dng.
4. K hiu nguyn cng.
5. S th t nguyn cng qui trnh cng
ngh ca sn phm may
6.Thi gian nh mc.
Qui lut ni chi tit nguyn cng: Ghp chi tit nh vo chi tit ln (chi tit ph
vo chi tit chnh)

34

Ghp cc chi tit cng c

Quy trnh thit lp s .

Bc 1: chun b mu sn phm, ghi tn sn phm, ngy thc hin cng


vic, tn ngi thc hin.

Bc 2: kim tra s lng chi tit thng qua bng thng k cc chi tit.

Thit lp trnh t lp rp cc chi tit. Xc nh cc v tr nhp vo ca chi


tit trn s .

Bc 3: xy dng s tm tt th hin tn ca cc chi tit, dng gia cng


chnh, dng gia cng ph v v tr nhp vo ca cc chi tit trn s .

Bc 4: bt u nghin cu t cc b phn, cc cm chi tit ring v in


vo s theo trnh t gia cng.

Bc 5: in cc d liu cn thit vo cc v tr qui nh. Cc nguyn


cng ging nhau phi c cng mt s th t trn cc k hiu v t i xng trn trc
ch dng gia cng.

Bc 6: lp bng phn b thi gian chi tit thc t ca mi cng on, mi


thit b, t gc ngoi bn v.

35

BI 15: LP K HOCH SN XUT


1. Khi nim
Lp k hoch l qu trnh phc ha, d kin mt hot ng trong tng lai
vi tn, ni dung, mc ch, a im thi gian, cc ngun lc c th Mc ch ca
hot ng l nhng g cui cng chng ta d nh (d kin, k vng) t c thng qua
hot ng phc v cho vic tha mn nhu cu tn ti v pht trin. Mc ch l kt qu
cui cng ca ton b hot ng. Mc tiu l kt qu trung gian kt qu ca cc mt,
cc giai on cng vic.
Sn phm ca qu trnh lp k hoch l bn k hoch. Bn k hoch thng
c tn ca hot ng c th v bao gm cc ni dung nh mc ch v cc mc tiu ca
hot ng; ni dung, qui m, a im, thi gian hot ng, ngi ch tr cc phn vic
chnh; thnh phn v cc chi ph
2. Mc ch v yu cu ca lp k hoch sn xut
Lp k hoch sn xut c ngha rt quan trng i vi s thnh cng ca doanh
nghip ni chung v doanh nghip may ni ring. K hoch sn xut chi tit gip doanh
nghip phn cng lao ng hp l, theo di v iu chnh tin sn xut kp thi, qun
l thng tin ca n hng mt cch khoa hc. Doanh nghip xc nh trc c tt c
cc mc tiu, thi gian, cc yu t nh hng t tp trung v pht huy ti a mi
ngun lc hon thnh mc tiu ra. ng thi, doanh nghip c th hn ch cc
yu t ri do v gim ti a chi ph sn xut.
Yu cu lp k hoch may:
-

m bo qu trnh sn xut ca x nghip din ra lin tc.

m bo tnh kh thi khi thc hin.

Pht huy ti a ngun lc ca cng ty.

Sn xut m bo s lng v cht lng.

nh hng cho cc b phn ca mt cng ty trong sn xut.

Xy dng k hoch sn xut cho nh my, phn xng, chuyn sn xut.

m bo s lng, cht lng v thi gian giao hng.

3. Trnh t lp k hoch
-

Phn tch n hng v iu kin sn xut ca doanh nghip.

36

Xc nh cc cng vic, kt qu cn t c v thi gian thc hin cho


tng cng vic.
-

Xc nh, so snh v la chn phng n hiu qu, kh thi.

Nhn bit nhng khu nh tr nh hng n k hoch sn xut.

Xc nh cc bin php loi tr nhng nguyn nhn gy nh tr. Hn ch


tc ng ca cc khu nh tr ti k hoch.
cn thit.

Xy dng cc phng n d phng v phng thc chun b p dng khi

37

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