Professional Documents
Culture Documents
BI 1: SN PHM MAY.............................................................................................1
1. nh ngha trang phc...........................................................................................1
2. Chc nng ca trang phc.....................................................................................1
3. Phn loi trang phc..............................................................................................1
4. M ha trang phc.................................................................................................1
5. Yu cu ca sn phm may....................................................................................2
6. Ch tiu cht lng................................................................................................2
BI 2: HNH THC SN XUT TRONG NGNH MAY.........................................3
1. Phng php thit k trang phc ..........................................................................3
1.1. Lch s pht trin cc phng php thit k trang phc.................................3
1.2. Phng php thit k trang phc....................................................................3
1.3. So snh phng php thit k.........................................................................3
2. Thit k mu sn phm..........................................................................................3
3. Hnh thc sn xut trong ngnh may.....................................................................4
3.1. Hnh thc sn xut..........................................................................................4
3.2. So snh cc hnh thc sn xut.......................................................................4
BI 3: QUY TRNH SN XUT NGNH MAY.......................................................5
1. Qu trnh chun b sn xut...................................................................................5
1.1. Nghin cu th trng....................................................................................5
1.2. Nghin cu kh nng sn xut........................................................................5
1.3. Thit k mu m thut ca sn phm mi......................................................5
1.4. Thit k k thut.............................................................................................5
1.5. Thit k cng ngh.........................................................................................5
1.6. Chun b nguyn vt liu................................................................................5
2. Quy trnh sn xut..................................................................................................6
BI 4: M HNH T CHC CA CC CNG TY MAY.........................................7
1. i tng khch hng............................................................................................7
2. M hnh hot ng may o....................................................................................7
3. M hnh hot ng may cng nghip....................................................................7
BI 5: PHNG PHP MAY.....................................................................................8
1. nh ngha.............................................................................................................8
2. Yu cu ng may...............................................................................................8
3. Mi quan h kim ch vi........................................................................................8
3.1. Chn kim may................................................................................................8
3.2. Chn ch may.................................................................................................9
BI 6: QU TRNH GIA CNG NHIT M...........................................................11
1. nh ngha...........................................................................................................11
2. Mc ch qu trnh gia cng nhit m..................................................................11
3. Cc hnh thc gia cng nhit m..........................................................................11
4. Trang thit b.......................................................................................................11
5. Vai tr ca hi nc, nhit , lc p v thi gian..............................................11
6. Phng php xc nh thng s...........................................................................11
7. Phn bit qu trnh l...........................................................................................12
8. Yu cu qu trnh gia cng nhit m....................................................................12
9. ng dng.............................................................................................................12
BI 7: QUN L CHT LNG.............................................................................13
1. nh ngha...........................................................................................................13
2. Nhm ch tiu cht lng sn phm dt may.......................................................13
3. Cht lng to ra trong qu trnh.........................................................................13
4. Cc h thng qun l cht lng..........................................................................13
5. Mt s h thng qun l cht lng thng gp..................................................14
6. Thc hin 5S........................................................................................................14
BI 8: CC NG MAY, MI MAY C BN....................................................15
1. Cc mi may c bn............................................................................................15
1.1. Mi may tht nt .........................................................................................15
1.2. Mi may mc xch n ................................................................................15
1.3. Mi may mc xch kp ................................................................................15
1.4. Mi may vt s ............................................................................................15
1.5. Mi may chn diu ......................................................................................16
2. Cc ng may c bn........................................................................................16
BI 9: THIT B K THUT MAY..........................................................................17
1. Thit b may.........................................................................................................17
2. Thit b ct...........................................................................................................17
3. Thit b hn dn...................................................................................................17
4. Thit b th nghim, kim tra...............................................................................17
BI 10: NH MC NGUYN PH LIU...............................................................18
1. nh ngha...........................................................................................................18
2. Mc ch.............................................................................................................. 18
3. Phng php tnh nh mc nguyn ph liu......................................................18
4. Phng php tnh nh mc thi gian..................................................................18
5. Ti u ha qu trnh sn xut..............................................................................18
BI 11: CC LOI NGUYN PH LIU NGNH MAY.......................................19
1. Ruy bng..............................................................................................................19
2. Dy .....................................................................................................................19
3. Kha nha...........................................................................................................19
4. Tht lng.............................................................................................................19
5. Kha Vencro........................................................................................................19
6. Kha ko..............................................................................................................19
7. Mex...................................................................................................................... 19
8. Chun....................................................................................................................19
BI 12: KT CU CC CM CHI TIT SN PHM.............................................20
1. Kt cu ti...........................................................................................................20
1.1. Ti p...........................................................................................................20
1.2. Ti 2 vin r c np......................................................................................21
1.3. Ti dc.........................................................................................................22
1.4. Ti ci..........................................................................................................23
2. Kt cu c o.......................................................................................................24
2.1. o khng c.................................................................................................24
2.2. Cc loi c o...............................................................................................25
3. Kt cu tay o......................................................................................................26
4. Kt cu gu qun, gu o.....................................................................................27
5. Kt cu np o.....................................................................................................27
BI 13: XY DNG TI LIU K THUT............................................................28
1. Nghin cu n hng v sn phm sn xut........................................................28
2. Thit k mu k thut...........................................................................................28
2.1. Thit k mu mng.......................................................................................28
2.2. Nhy mu :...................................................................................................28
2.3. Thit k mu sn xut:..................................................................................28
3. Thit k cng ngh..............................................................................................29
4. Xy dng qui trnh cng ngh may sn phm......................................................31
BI 14: XY DNG QUY TRNH MAY SN PHM............................................32
1. Nguyn tc chung................................................................................................32
2. S khi gia cng sn phm............................................................................33
3. Xy dng qui trnh phn tch cng ngh may (s cy)....................................34
BI 15: LP K HOCH SN XUT......................................................................36
1. Khi nim............................................................................................................36
2. Mc ch v yu cu ca lp k hoch sn xut...................................................36
3. Trnh t lp k hoch...........................................................................................36
2. S n v hc trnh
: 3 VHT = 45 tit.
3. Trnh
: K II.
: Khng.
6. Mc tiu ca hc phn:
- Trang b nhng kin thc c bn v thit k v sn xut sn phm may mc.
- Trang b nhng kin thc c bn v cu trc v phng php gia cng cc chi
tit c bn trn qun o.
- Thit k ti liu k thut n hng.
7. M t vn tt ni dung hc phn:
-
Lm y cc bi tp vn dng.
9. Ti liu hc tp:
-
Nguyn Minh H, Qun l sn xut ngnh may cng nghip, NXB HQG TP
H Ch Minh, 2006.
Trn Thy Bnh, Gio trnh cng ngh may, NXB Gio dc,2005.
BI 1: SN PHM MAY
1. nh ngha trang phc
-
iu kin kh hu ( climate ) :
o2 ma : thu ng ( fall winter ), xun h
o4 ma : xun, h, thu, ng
-
4. M ha trang phc
-
Yu cu s dng:
o S ph hp kch thc, hinh dng ca sn phm vi c
th ngi mc
o S thoi mi v tin nghi v sinh l cho con ngi khi s
dng sn phm
o tin cy trong qu trinh s dng sn phm
Yu cu thm m:
o S ph hp ca kiu dng, t l, b cc v mu sc vi
xu hng ca mt
o
qun o: mi ch p v ng yu cu,...
Ch tiu v k thut
Mc chnh xc.
Mc thun tin.
2. Thit k mu sn phm
- Thit k mu may o :
o Nghin cu th trng khu vc hp.
o V thit k trang phc theo s thch tng khch hng.
Sn phm.
Mc chuyn mn ha.
T chc sn xut.
Trnh k thut.
Chi ph sn xut.
Trnh k thut.
Con ngi.
Vn.
Trang thit b.
C s vt cht.
T chc, qun l.
Thit k mu c bn.
Thit k mu c s.
Thit k mu mi.
Thit k mu sn xut.
Xy dng bn v thit k.
Gic mu.
Xy dng quy trnh cng ngh sn xut (ct, may, hon tt).
Chun b ph liu.
Qu trnh x vi.
Qu trnh ct vi.
Lin kt rp ni.
Hon tt sn phm.
Yu cu ngoi quan.
+ Hnh dng ng yu cu.
+ Khng b mi.
+ Li mi chc chn.
Yu cu k thut
+ u mi.
+ Cu trc mi may ng tiu chun.
+ Mt mi may ng yu cu.
+ bn ng may.
3. Mi quan h kim ch vi
3.1. Chn kim may
3.1.1. Lch s kim may
-
Kim my
+ Lch s : pht minh bi Charles 1755.
+ ng dng kim may.
m xuyn.
Lin kt vt liu
Trang tr
3.2.2. Cu to ch may
-
Ch xe
Ch n
Ch li
Chn chi s ch :
+ Chi s ch : n v o dy, mnh ca ch
+ dy thc t nh hn dy rnh kim
Thnh phn ch
+ bn ca ch so vi vi
+ Thnh phn ca ch so vi vi
Mu ch :
+ Ch may trang tr
+ Ch may cng mu vi vi
3.2.4. Yu cu chung ca ch may
-
Bn
Mm mi
nh bng tt
Cn bng xon
Khng sn
Khng nhit
10
To nhng np gp theo yu cu
Xng hi
4. Trang thit b
-
Bn l
My i hi
My p to form
Bn l hi v h thng cp hi
m to kh nng mm ha x, si
160 C cho vi la t tm
11
9. ng dng
-
To cc np gp
L r ng may
L phng b mt
Dn dng
L co, l bai
12
Ph hp vi mc ch
Tt m khng t
ng yu cu a ra
Bn ra m khng b tr li
Thit k
Chun b sn xut
Sn xut
m bo cht lng
13
6. Thc hin 5S
L hot ng c s cho mi ci tin hng vo vic loi tr cc lng ph, bt
hp l ti ni lm vic. Thc hin ti tt c cc khu vc lm vic.
-
tra.
Sn sng: o to v hng dn cho mi ngi v quy nh ni lm vic
v hnh ng khc ph mi ngi tun th theo.
14
BI 8: CC NG MAY, MI MAY C BN
1. Cc mi may c bn
1.1. Mi may tht nt
-
K hiu 300
Tnh cht
Mi may bn cht
Mt trn v di ging nhau
Ch di b gii hn => gim nng sut
ng may km n hi
K hiu 100
Tnh cht
ng may n hi
K hiu 400
Tnh cht
Mi may c bn n nh
Ch di khng b gii hn, tiu hao ch nhiu
Thc hin c theo 1 chiu
ng may n hi
K hiu 500
Tnh cht
Mi may c bn n nh, n hi
Ch di khng b gii hn, tiu hao ch nhiu
Thc hin c theo 1 chiu
15
Cn dao xn mp
dng may bc mp
1.5. Mi may chn diu
-
K hiu 600
Tnh cht
Mi may c bn n nh
n hi ca mi may ln
ng may can
ng may vin gt m
ng may vin gt m
ng may diu lt
ng may vin kp l
ng may vin bc kn m
16
My may mt kim xn
My Kansai
My trn
My vt s
My tha khuyt
My di b
My thu
My may ziczac
2. Thit b ct
-
My ct y tay
My ct vng
My ct t ng
3. Thit b hn dn
-
17
Tnh nh mc vi:
o S dng kinh nghim, c lng, o c
o S dng my tnh
Thi gian ct vi
o Tnh ton v bm gi ( tng t thi gian tri )
o My tnh t ng tnh
o Phng php phn tch qu trnh
5. Ti u ha qu trnh sn xut
Tnh ton chnh xc nh mc nguyn ph liu v nh mc thi gian
t chc sn xut t hiu qu cao nht.
18
4. Tht lng
5. Kha Vencro
Kha dn Vencro c cu to t 2 lp: 1 lp mc v 1 lp vng. Khi
dnh vo nhau, cc mc s lin kt vng to dnh cho kha.
6. Kha ko
-
dng
7. Mex
sn phm.
19
Tn gi: theo chc nng s dng, v tr, cu trc, c im, hnh dng
1.1. Ti p
-
Gia cng ti p:
o Gia cng np ti
o Gia cng thn ti
o nh du v tr ti trn thn sn phm
o May ti v np ti vo thn sn phm
20
Yu cu ca ti p
-
Khng c vt bn, loang , li si, thng rch, khc mu gia cc chi tit
ng may l u hay cp ch
1.2. Ti 2 vin r c np
ng dng
-
Ti o vest
21
May can ti o
May p ti vo bao ti
1.3. Ti dc
-
Cc loi ti dc:
Dc r
Dc lt
Dc cho
Dc cho c vin
Gia cng ti dc
May p ti vo bao ti
May y ti
nh b
22
Cc chi tit
Thn sn phm
Bao ti
p ti
vin ti
1.4. Ti ci
-
Cc chi tit:
Thn sn phm
Ci ti, dng dn ci ti
p ti
Bao ti
23
2. Kt cu c o
-
Trng tm ca sn phm
Gi m, lm thong mt
2.1. o khng c
-
C p c
Vin c
Khng dy hn vi thn o
p c
Ct t vi chnh
Bn rng 3-6cm
24
Gia cng c o
May c vo thn o
2.2. Cc loi c o
-
Yu cu ngoi quan:
C o cn i, m phng.
m bo kch thc:
Bn c.
Chn c
u c (nu c).
Yu cu k thut may:
2.2.1. C b chn ri
2.2.2. C b ve
25
2.2.3. C sen
3. Kt cu tay o
ng dng :
-
Tay o s mi
Tay o bo h lao ng
26
4. Kt cu gu qun, gu o
Gu qun v gu o c kt cu tng i n gin
-
5. Kt cu np o
Phn ci cc hoc ko kho hoc giao nhau ng mp (gia thn
trc ngi) ca o
Chc nng: ci m cc, kho, dy buc; chia thn trc thnh 2 phn
theo chiu dc; trang tr.
-
27
c im k thut ca sn phm:
Bn v k thut, m t sn phm.
2. Thit k mu k thut
2.1. Thit k mu mng
T mu thit k trn kch thc sn phm, mu mng c thit k t mu thit
k sn phm tnh thm lng d gia cng.
-
Tn chi tit.
C s: c M.
2.2. Nhy mu :
-
mu:
28
Gic mu:
- Xc nh cc nguyn tc gic mu
- Trnh t gic mu:
o Kim tra c s v s lng cc b mu cng s gic trn s .
o Kim tra s lng chi tit ca mi b mu cng.
o Vch hai ng bin ca s .
o Sp xp cc mu cng trn s : gic cc mu ln trc, sau n
cc mu trung bnh v cui cng l cc mu nh.
- Yu cu:
o t mt phi ca mu ln trn.
o lch canh si thc t nh hn hoc bng lnh canh si cho php.
o Kt hp cc mu ln v mu trung bnh to thnh nhng vng trng
trong s dng gic mu nh.
o Cc ng ct thng ca mu ln c quay ra mp ngoi ca s , cc
ng ct cong quay vo trong.
o Cc chi tit c th xp theo c hai chiu.
- Xy dng s gic mu:
Chn phng php gic: do yu cu s lng sn xut ca n hng v kch
thc ti u ca bn tri vi ta chn phng php gic s : Phng php gic ghp.
Gic phi hp gic cc c trn cng mt s gic
3. Thit k cng ngh
-
Lp bng kt cu cc ng lin kt
29
STT Tn ng lin kt
Kt cu lin
kt
30
STT Tn chi tit Kt cu cm chi tit Gii thch k hiu Thit b s dng
4. Xy dng qui trnh cng ngh may sn phm.
-
S khi lp rp sn phm.
S lp rp sn phm.
31
Nghin cu sn phm:
khp.
mp vi.
c im kiu mu
Vi cc loi qun o cng t mt loi vt liu nhng cc kiu mu c th
khc nhau th s c cu trc, c th ring cu trc cc ng rp ni iu ny do cng
dng, thm m ca sn phm to nn.
32
Yu cu k thut may ca mu
Gia cng cc cm chi tit c lp (gia cng thn trc, may chit, may
can ni cc mnh, ; gia cng thn sau: xp ly, can ni,)
-
33
M t k hiu
Nguyn cng thc hin trn my mt kim mi thoi
Nguyn cng thc hin trn my chuyn dng
Nguyn cng th cng
Nguyn cng gim st, kim tra
Nguyn cng gim st, kim tra cht lng
Nguyn cng chun b bn thnh phm, nguyn liu, ph liu
Hon tt sn phm, lu kho
34
Bc 2: kim tra s lng chi tit thng qua bng thng k cc chi tit.
35
3. Trnh t lp k hoch
-
36
37