ESSENTIAL

J e w e l r y

Reference Guide

ESSENTIAL
e w e l r y

Reference Guide

The Gemological Institute of America Carlsbad, California 92008 2000 The Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved: Protected under the Berne Convention. Printed in the United States.

Table of Contents
Introduction Setting Styles Rings Ring Findings Earrings Earring Findings Chains Necklaces and Pendants Bracelets Necklace, Chain, and Bracelet Findings Brooches Brooch Findings Cufflinks Cufflink Findings Birthstones Anniversary Gift List Index 1 2 4 12 14 18 20 26 32 36 38 41 42 45 46 48 50

INTRODUCTION
Jewelry is our most intimate adornment. It is also one of our most complexthe sheer scope and variety of jewelry types and styles present a challenge to any sales associate, seasoned or novice. And yet, the challenge of selling all kinds of jewelry with confidence can be a welcome one, especially with the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide at your side. One of the most powerful ways to learn about the various styles of jewelry is by looking at them. The Essential Jewelry Reference Guide enables you to do this. It places a representative selection of the popular and traditional jewelry styles in your hands. From cuff bracelets to cufflinks, from omega necklaces to omega-back earrings, most of the jewelry you are likely to sell is here, beautifully photographed and concisely labeled. But the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide offers much more than a closer look at the spectacular array of jewelry available today. This valuable guide links word and image in an easy-to-understand format. Take advantage of the terminology you find within the pages of this vibrant compendium. Industry terms like kidney wire, figaro, or bypass ring are part of the language of jewelry. Your new vocabulary will allow you to serve customers with ease, accuracy, and professional flair. In addition, the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide is organized with the students convenience in mind. Jewelry items are grouped by categories (rings, bracelets, and so on). Whether you need specific information for a sale, or just want to browse, the guide is designed to help you expand your expertise quickly and easily. As a helpful plus, the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide includes two customer gift-giving listsone for birthdays, one for anniversariesthat youll refer to often. A Jewelry Gallery in your Jewelry Essentials course provides a tantalizing discussion of todays popular jewelry. The Essential Jewelry Reference Guide expands on that knowledge by taking you on a visual tour of these jewelry styles. Enjoy your journey.
2000 by GIA. All rights reserved.

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ine jewelry settings cradle precious cargo. From traditional to innovative, their variety is as endless as human creativity itself. And without a beautiful setting to define it, the most stunning of gems remains unfulfilled. Tiny diamonds shimmering like newfallen snow. A ruby ribbon of seamless crimson. These are only two of the wondrous images jewelry settings conjure.

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setting styles

Prong Channel

Pav

Invisible

Tension

Illusion

Flush

Bezel

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ther than our facial expressions, our hands are our most eloquent attribute. No wonder rings are the most popular jewelry type. We choose a ring not only to adorn our finger, but also to make a statement, a promise, an invitation. Shakespeares King Richard III spoke ardently and well when he said, Look, how my ring encompasseth thy finger, Even so thy breast encloseth my poor heart; Wear both of them, for both of them are thine. Whether rings conveyed the imprint of a royal seal or sealed a promise of marriage, they hold a place of honor in jewelry history. In modern times, they are equally meaningful. Explore their many messages.

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rings
Diamond Solitaire

Diamond Engagement

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Diamond Wedding Sets

Anniversary Bands
Diamond bar set

Diamond eternity

Sapphire and diamond

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Wedding Bands

Dome Diamond two-tone Flat

Two-tone Dome millgrain

Diamond two-tone combination finish

Invisible-set diamond

Engraved two-tone

Fashion
Bypass Waterfall

Two-tone freeform Freeform Cluster

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Stackable

Tri-color Rolling

Teenage (Promise)

Mens

Diamond

Diamond coin

Black onyx and diamond

Signet

Black onyx and diamond nugget

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Designer

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Colored Gem and Diamond

Semi-Mounts

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Guard

Wraps

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ring findings
Adjustable Shanks

Finger-fit shanks

MAB Superfit

Heads

Four-prong round high pinch

Six-prong round low pinch peg

Six-prong round tulip

Four-prong round low base

Six-prong round low base

Six-prong open back buttercup

Six-prong marquise head with point prongs

Six-prong marquise head with V end prongs

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Shanks

Cathedral

Flat

Half round pinch

Half round

Illusion, Cluster, and Trim

Illusion setting

Seven-stone top

Eight-stone peg setting

Stone top for mans ring

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omeo described his Juliet as a rich jewel that graced the cheek of night like an earring sweeping the cheek of a darkskinned beauty. Whether they dangle dramatically against the face or nestle demurely at the earlobe, earrings provide bright counterpoint to the changing melody of an expressive countenance. One of the most ancient of jewels, earrings have metamorphosed repeatedly over the centuries in response to fashion and fancy.

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earrings
Hoop

Hinged

Non-pierced

Slide

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Button

Cultured Mab Pearl

Gem-set Post Gem-set Omega Back with Post

Electroform

Diamond Stud

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Designer Drop Gem-set Kidney Wire

Gem-set Hoop and Hinged

Ball and Half-ball Gem-set Lever Back

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earring findings
Jackets

Diamond Solitaire Post Mountings

Posts

La Pousette Posts and Clutches

Lever Back

Kidney Wire

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Screw Backs

Shepherds Hook

Clutches

Butterfly Clutch

Omega Backs

Eternity Wire

Gem-set Post Mountings

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leaming intertwined links speaking of power and bounty, precious metal chains are timeless in appeal. Thousands of years ago, artisans hand-wrought them of twisted loops of wire. Today, complex software drives machines to knit fantastically intricate chain patterns never before achieved. Kissing a wrist or resting against a breastbone, jewelry chains are always a luxury.

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chains

Omega 21

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Cable wire (top two), round omega (bottom)

Flat gooseneck (top), half-round gooseneck (bottom two)

Byzantine

Twisted serpentine

Serpentine

Beveled herringbone

Herringbone

Double curb

Oval curb

Curb

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Parallel curb

Hollow mariner

Mariner

Singapore

Figaro

Flat figaro

Bowtie figaro

Diamond-cut figaro

Ball

Rope

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Triple rope

French rope

Twisted rope

Cobra

Boston link

Bismarck

Open cable

Double cable

Drawn flat cable

Elongated cable

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Heart

Track

Wheat

C-chain

Snake

Stocking mesh

Fancy double link (top three), lace (bottom two)

Rolo (top), belcher (middle four), U (bottom)

Side-by-side

Mirror

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rom the sweet wink of a little girl's locket to the bold spark of a fabulous diamond necklace, jewelry that encircles the throat works instant magic. Necklaces come in myriad forms and styles, and pendants of endless variety often add spice to their charm. In recent years, pearl strands and diamond solitaire pendants have won a place close to the hearts of jewelry lovers. But bright metal collars, sultry Y necklaces, and many other looks continue to appeal, now and into the future. Whatever style you choose to wear, necklaces invite others to step closer to your magic spell.

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necklaces and pendants

Gem-set

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Cultured Pearl Strand

Diamond Solitaire

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Station

Stampato Link

Free-form Slide Diamond Heart

Locket

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Torsade

Collar

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Designer

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orn close to the pulse, bracelets are an intimate pleasure. Primitive artisans fashioned them in the forms of snakes and rams heads. Modern bracelet styles can be similarly bold, or as subtle as a whisper. Chain bracelets echo the pattern of their sister neck chains. Cuff bracelets of twisted metal make high-fashion statements. Meanwhile, the diamond tennis bracelet is a coveted classic that spans the generations. And banglesplain or gem-studded, single or stackedare simply elegant. The choices are as rich as the world of jewelry itself.

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bracelets
Cuff

Diamond Link

Tennis

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Hinged Bangle

I.D.

Medical I.D.

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Gem-set Link

Designer

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necklace, chain, and bracelet findings

Pendant Mountings

Four-prong basket solitaire

Cluster

Bezel-set slide

Safety Chains

Jump Rings

End Caps

Bails

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Clasps

Lobster claw

Spring rings with terminals

Easy hook

Screw barrel

Box

Barrel

Foldover

Single-strand fish hook

Toggle

Multi-strand box

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hat better way to express yourself than to wear a jewel on your lapel or shoulder that says it all without words. Brooches can be simple platinum circles, abstract scribbles of silver, creatures of ruby and emerald, or dainty 14K gold bows. There's doubtless a brooch for anything you want to be, say, or do. Whimsical or dramatic, designer or mainstream, pins and brooches are always in style.

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brooches
Electroform

Animal Motif

Circle

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Designer

Bar

Floral

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brooch findings
Pin-backs and Pin-back Components

Tie-tack Safety Clutches

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he cuff link is an ingenious device with more than a mere utilitarian purpose. Todays cuff links express a mood, a passion, or a sense of tradition. In basic black onyx or set with diamonds and pearls, cuff links let you wear your heart on your French-cuffed sleeve. Show the world what youre made of and collect cuff links for work, play, and pleasure.

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cufflinks

Onyx

Knot

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Designer

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cufflink findings

Swivel or toggle backs

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Birthstones
January February March April May June July August September October November December Garnet Amethyst Aquamarine, Bloodstone Diamond Emerald Alexandrite, Cultured Pearl, Moonstone Ruby Peridot, Sardonyx Sapphire Opal, Tourmaline Topaz, Citrine Turquoise, Zircon

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Anniversary
Tenth Eleventh Twelfth Fourteenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth Thirtieth Thirty-fifth Fortieth Forty-fifth Fiftieth Fifty-fifth Sixtieth

Modern Jewelry-Related Gift

Diamond jewelry Fashion jewelry Pearls Gold jewelry Platinum Silver Diamond Jade Ruby Sapphire Gold Emerald Diamond

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Index
A Adjustable shanks, 12 Animal motif brooch, 39 Anniversary bands, 6 Anniversary gift list, 48 B Bails, 36 Ball chain, 23 Ball earrings, 17 Bar brooch, 40 Barrel clasp, 37 Bar-set band, 6 Belcher chain, 25 Bezel-set slide solitaire, 36 Bezel setting, 3 Birthstone list, 46 Bismark chain, 24 Black onyx and diamond mens ring, 8 Black onyx and diamond nugget-style mens ring, 8 Boston-link chain, 24 Box clasps, 37 Bracelet, designer, 35 Bracelet, gem-set link, 35 Bracelet, I.D., 34 Bracelet, medical I.D., 34 Bracelet, tennis, 33 Bracelet findings, 36-37 Bracelets, 32-37 Bracelets, cuff, 33 Bracelets, hinged bangle, 34 Bracelets, diamond link, 33 Brooch, animal motif, 39 Brooch,bar, 40 Brooch, circle, 39 Brooch, designer, 40 Brooch, electroform, 39 Brooch, findings, 41 Brooch, f loral, 40 Brooches, 38-41 Button earrings, 16 Bypass ring, 7 Byzantine chain, 22 C Cable chain, double, 24 Cable chain, drawn-f lat, 24 Cable chain, elongated, 24 Cable chain, open, 24 Cable wire chains, 22 Cathedral shank, 13 C-chain, 24 Chain findings, 36-37 Chains, 20-25 Chains, safety, 36 Channel setting, 3 Circle brooch, 39 Clasps, 37 Cluster mounting, pendant, 36 Cluster ring, 7 Clutch, butterf ly earring, 19 Clutches, earring, 19 Clutches, tie-tack safety, 41 Cobra chain, 24 Coin mens ring, 8 Collar necklace, 30 Colored gem and diamond rings, 9 Combination finish two-tone diamond band, 7 Cuff link findings, 45 Cuff links, 42-45 Cuff links, designer, 44 Cuff links, knot, 43 Cuff links, onyx, 43 Cultured mab pearl earrings, 16 Cultured pearl strand, 28 Curb chain, oval, 22 Curb chain, 22 Curb chain, double, 22 Curb chain, parallel, 23 D Designer bracelets, 35 Designer brooch, 40 Designer cuff links, 44 Designer drop earrings, 17 Designer necklaces, 31 Designer rings, 9 Diamond and colored gem rings, 9 Diamond bands, 6, 7 Diamond engagement rings, 5 Diamond heart pendants, 29 Diamond link bracelet, 33 Diamond mens rings, 8 Diamond solitaire necklaces, 28 Diamond solitaire pendant, 28 Diamond solitaire post mountings, earrings, 18 Diamond solitaire rings, 5 Diamond stud earrings, 16

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Diamond wedding sets, 6 Dome band, 7 Dome millgrain band, 7 Double-link chain, fancy, 25 Drop earrings, designer, 17 E Earring findings, 18-19 Earrings, 14-20 Easy hook clasp, 37 Eight-stone peg setting, 13 Electroform brooch, 39 Electroform earrings, 16 End caps, 36 Engraved two-tone band, 7 Eternity bands, 6 Eternity wire, 19 F Fashion rings, 7 Figaro chain, 23 Figaro chain, bowtie, 23 Figaro chain, diamond-cut, 23 Figaro chain, f lat, 23 Findings, bracelet, 36-37 Findings, brooch, 41 Findings, chain, 36-37 Findings, cluster, 13 Findings, cuff link, 45 Findings, earring, 18-19 Findings, illusion, 13 Findings, kidney wire, 18 Findings, lever back, 18 Findings, necklace, 36-37 Findings, ring, 12-13 Findings, trim, 13 Finger-fit shanks, 12 Fish hook clasp, single-strand, 37 Flat band, 7 Flat gooseneck chain, 22 Flat shank, 13 Floral brooch, 40 Flush setting, 3 Foldover clasp, 37 Four-prong basket solitaire mounting, pendant, 36 Four-prong round high pinch head, 12 Four-prong round low base head, 12 Freeform ring, 7 Freeform slide pendant, 29 Freeform two-tone ring, 7

G Gem-set earrings, 16-17 Gem-set necklaces, 27 Gooseneck chains, 22 Guard, 11 H Half-ball earrings, 17 Half-round gooseneck chain, 22 Half-round pinch shank, 13 Half-round shank, 13 Heads, 12 Heart chain, 25 Herringbone chain, 22 Herringbone chain, beveled, 22 Hinged bangle bracelets, 34 Hinged earrings, 15, 17 Hinged earrings, gem-set, 17 Hoop earrings, 15, 17 Hoop earrings, gem-set, 17 I Illusion setting, 3, 13 Invisible setting, 3 Invisible-set diamond band, 7 J Jackets, earring, 18 Jump rings, 36 K Kidney wire earring finding, 18 Kidney wire earrings, gem-set, 17 Knot cuff links, 43 L Lace chain, 25 La Pousette earring clutches, 18 La Pousette earring posts, 18 Lever back earring findings, 18 Lever back earrings, gem-set, 17 Link necklace stampato, 29 Lobster claw clasp, 37 Lockets, 29 M MAB Superfit adjustable shank, 12 Mariner chain, 23 Mariner chain, hollow, 23 Mens rings, 8

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Mirror chain, 25 Mountings, pendant, 36 Multi-strand box clasp, 37 N Necklace findings, 36-37 Necklaces and pendants, 26-31 Necklaces, gem-set, 27 Non-pierced earrings, 19 O Omega back earrings, gem-set, 16 Omega backs, 19 Omega chains, 21, 22 Onyx cuff links, 43 P Pav setting, 3 Pendant mountings, 36 Pendants, designer, 31 Pin-backs and components, brooch, 41 Post earrings, gem-set, 16 Post-mountings, diamond solitaire, 18 Post mountings, gem-set, 19 Posts, earring, 18 Promise rings, 8 Prong setting, 3 R Ring findings, 12-13 Ring guard, 11 Ring shanks, 12-13 Ring semi-mounts, 10 Ring wraps, 11 Rings, 4-13 Rolling ring, 8 Rolo chain, 25 Rope chain, 23 Rope chain, French, 24 Rope chain, triple, 24 Rope chain, twisted, 25 Round omega chains, 22 S Safety chains, 36 Safety clutches, tie-tack, 41 Screw backs, 19 Screw barrel clasp, 37 Semi-mounts, 10 Serpentine chain, 22 Serpentine chain, twisted, 22 Setting styles, 2-3 Seven-stone top, 13

Shanks, 12, 13 Shepherds hook, 19 Side-by-side chain, 25 Signet mens ring, 8 Singapore chain, 24 Single-strand fish hook clasp, 37 Six-prong marquise head with point, prongs, 12 Six-prong marquise head with V-end prongs, 12 Six-prong open-back buttercup head , 12 Six-prong round low base head, 12 Six-prong round low pinch peg head, 12 Six-prong round tulip head, 12 Slide bezel-set solitaire, 36 Slide pendant, freeform, 29 Snake chain, 25 Spring ring clasps with terminals, 37 Stackable rings, 8 Stampato link necklace, 29 Station necklace, 29 Stocking mesh chain, 25 Stone top, mens ring, 13 Straight-line link bracelet, diamond, 33 Swivel back cuff link findings, 45 T Teenage rings, 8 Tennis bracelet, 33 Tension setting, 3 Tie-tack safety clutches, 41 Tin cup necklace, 29 Toggle back cuff link findings, 45 Toggle clasp, 37 Torsade necklace, 30 Track chain, 25 Tri-color rolling ring, 8 Trim finding, 13 Two-tone band, 7 Two-tone diamond band, 7 Two-tone combination finish diamond band, 7 Two-tone engraved band, 7 Two-tone freeform fashion ring, 7 U U chain, 25 W Waterfall ring, 7 Wedding bands, 7 Wheat chain, 25 Wraps, 11 Y Y necklace, 28

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Acknowledgments
The Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people and organizations for their assistance in providing some of the gems, jewelry and photography used in this assignment: Julius Braun, Collection of Buddy Braun, 9 Bulgari, 31 (bottom) Gold Rush, 40 (top right) Nicholas Logsdon, Facets Studio, 31 (top) Platinum Guild International, Brooch by Link Wachler & Sons, 40 (top left) Michael M. Scott, 47

Photo Credits
GIA & Tino Hammid/photography, 17

Steve Kretchmer, Robert Weldon/photography, 3

Shane McClure/photography, 40 (top right)

Robert Weldon/photography, 44 Harold & Erica Van Pelt/photography, 47

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