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ra g ph am
Thng nht, trong sinh hot v lao ng, nam gii ngi Thi mc o cnh ngn, x ngc, qun x dng. o l loi c trn, khng cu vai, hai ti di v trc ci cc vi hoc xng. c im ca o cnh nam gii ngi Thi khu Ty Bc khng phi l li ct may (v c bn ging ngn nam Ty, Nng, Kinh...) m l mu sc a dng ca loi vi c truyn ca cng ng sng to nn: khng ch c mu chm, trng m cn c mu c ph sa, hay dt cc vung bng cc si mu , xanh, c ph... Trong cc ngy l, tt, h mc nhiu loi o sc s, tng phn mu sc vi ngy thng vi li ct may di, thng, khng ln nch vi cc loi: x ngc, x nch, chui u., Trong tang l h mc o x nch mu cham u qun khn, chn i guc. My chc nm gn y, nam gii ngi Thi mc u phc kh ph bin. ra g ph
Trang phc n Thi chia lm 2 loi phn bit kh r theo hai ngnh Thi Ty Bc l Thi Trng ( Ty khao) v Thi en (Ty m)
Thi Trng: Thng nht, ph n Thi Trng mc o cnh ngn (xa cm), vy mu en khng trang tr hoa vn. o thng l mu sng, trng, ci cc bc to hnh bm, ve,ong... Ci khc xa cm Thi en l c o hnh ch V. Thn o ngn hn o cnh ngi Kinh, to dng m cht ly thn, khi mc cho vo trong cp vy. Vy l loi vy kn (ng), mu en, pha trong gu p vi . Khi mc xa cm v vy ph n Thi cn tm chong ra ngoi c trang tr nhiu mu. Khn i u khng c hoa vn m ch l bng vi chm di trn di 2 mt... Trong cc dp l tt h mc o di mu en. y l loi o u thng thn thng, khng ln nch, c trang tr bng vi 'kht' gia thn c tua vi ph t vai xung ngc, nch o trang tr theo li p hai mng hoa vn trong b cc hnh tam gic. Ph n cha chng hay c chng khng c du hiu quy nh nhn bit... H c loi nn rng vnh. Thi en: Thng nht ph n Thi en mc o ngn (xa cm) mu ti (chm hoc en), c o khc Thi Trng l loi c trn, ng. u i khn gi l "piu" thu hoa vn nhiu m -tp trang tr mang phong cch tng mng. Vy l loi ging ph n Thi Trng ni trn. Li tc kkhi c chng bi ln nh u gi l "Tng cu";khi chng cht c th bi tc thp xung sau gy; cha chng khng bi tc. Trong l, tt o di Thi en a dng vi cc loi x nch, chui u, trang tr phong ph a dng v mu v mu m m-tp hn Thi Trng.
Nhn chung ni Ty thng mc qun o vi bng nhum chm nn trang phc ca h mu ch o l mu chm, ph n thng cht khn m qu, mc o nm thn c tht lng, eo vng c, tay, chn bng bc. Trang phc c truyn ca ngi Ty c lm t vi si bng t dt, nhum chm ng nht trn trang phc nam v n, hu nh khng c hoa vn trang tr. Khng ai r ngh dt th cm ca ngi dn tc Ty c t bao gi, m ch bit nhng tm vi th cm do chnh h dt ra t lu ni ting vi nhng hoa vn p mt, sc s, mang m sc thi dn tc. Nguyn liu chnh dt th cm l si bng nhum chm v t tm nhum mu. Tuy nhin, do gi t tm t nn ngy nay ngi dt th cm dng len c chi ph thp hn thay th. Quy trnh dt th cm hon ton th cng v chnh i tay kho lo v s nhn ni ca ngi ph n Ty m nhng tm th cm nn hnh nn dng v cng c sc. T nhng tm th cm t to y ngi ph n Ty may thnh mt chn, mt u, khn tri ging v nht l nhng b trang phc c sc ca dn tc. ra g ph am
Trang phc nam gii ngi Ty c qun chn qu, ng rng, cp l ta, o ngn cng may nm thn, c ng. Nam cng c o di nh ci o ngn ko di vt xung qu u gi. Ngoi ra, h cn c thm o 4 thn, y l loi o x ngc, c trn cao, khng cu vai, x t, ci cc vi v c hai ti nh pha trc. Vo nhng ngy hi h ngi ta mc o cnh trng trong c l v vy m ngi Ty cn c gi l ngi o trng (cn sla khao) phn bit vi ngi Nng thng ch mc o chm. Ngoi ra, n ng Ty cn mc thm loi o di 5 thn x nch phi, m cc vi hay cc ng. Qun (kha) cng lm bng vi si bng nhum chm nh o, ct theo kiu qun ng cho, chong va phi di ti mt c chn. Qun c cp rng khng lun rt, khi mc c dy buc ngoi. Khn i u mu chm (30cm x 200cm) Qun trn u theo li ch nhn. ra g ph
V trang phc n gii, l mc o cnh, o di nm thn, qun vy, tht lng, khn i u, hi vi. Ph n Ty cn tht lng bng nhng tm vi chm hay i di khong hai si tay lm tng thm v duyn dng nht l vi thanh n. Trong nhng ngy l tt, h mc thm chic o trng bn trong. Trc y ph n mc vy, nhng gn y ph bin mc qun; l loi qun v nguyn tc ct may ging nam gii kch thc c phn hp hn. Khn ph n Ty cng l loi khn vung mu chm khi i gp cho ging kiu m qu ca ngi Kinh. Nn ca ph n Ty kh c o. Nn bng nan tre lp l c mi nn bng v rng. Trang sc ph n Ty n gin song c cc chng loi c bn nh vng c, vng tay, vng chn, x tch... C ni cn eo ti vi. Ni ti trang phc ca ngi Ty, ta khng th khng ni ti hoa vn trn trang phc ca h. Ci c o nht l li dng mu chm ph bin, ng nht trn trang phc nam v n cng nh li mc o lt trng bn trong o ngoi mu chm.
o cnh ngn bn thn ca ngi Mng c may t vi bng hay vi t tm, vt di gn chm mng, vai c ming vi mm hnh l sen, ting Mng gi l l hi, hai bn hng o x t. Np o ngc m khuy ci cc, ba ti, hai ti to pha di hai vt trc b ti nh trn vt ngc tri tay ni lin vi cu vai. o cnh nam may va, to dng kho khon ca n ng. Qun vi chm may rng trng vi mt c chn, cp to, khi mc dng dy vi buc ngoi cho cht, nay ngi ta may cp qun di rt. Ngy xa, nam gii Mng cn dng tht lng ni eo bng, cn gi l khn qun. Loi tht lng ny di gn bng ci tn ca ngi ph n, tht xong xa mi xung chm u gi, m c ngi cho l du vt ca di kh ngy xa. Xa n ng bi tc, trn u bt khn, mi khn vng sau gy, gi di mi tc. Cn loi khn khc na ngn hn, bt t pha sau ra trc trn ri tht mi, hai mi khn dng nghing ging nh hai ci sng trng tht kho khon v c o. Trong ngy l hi, n ng Mng mc nhng b qun o mi. B nam phc trang trng thng lm bng vi la, mu tm, xanh, hoc mu vng t tm u cht khn mu tm than, tht lng la mu xanh m ng tm, bn ngoi khoc thm chic o chng la, mu en, c cao, vt di ph gi, ci khuy o pha nch phi, hai bn t o x cao. V trang phc n, ngi Mng thng mc l o ngn (pn). y l loi o cnh ngn, x ngc, thn ngn hn o cnh ca ngi Kinh, ng tay di. Trc kia, o pn ch c hai mu nu v trng nhng nay, phong ph hn vi mi mu sc. Vy ca ph n Mng l vy en di, u vy c trang tr bng nhng hoa vn th vm ni bt do ngicon gi Mng t dt nn. Chic vy cn rt n tng khi cp vy m st thn, cp hoa ph trc ngc, tht lng xanh, tm khn trng i u v vng king sng lng lnh, tt c u to nn s duyn dng v kho lo ca ngi ph n Mng t xa n nay. Phn ln trang phc n u do h t lm, t khu dt vi, nhum mu n trang tr hoa vn. Ngi Mng c cng on nhum thn vy kh cng phu, to nn mu vi va bn nhng c bng rt cao. Ph n Mng ra cng nhum hng hoc , xanh, im vo nhng bng hoa. Cch to nhng bng hoa ny khng phi do thu, dt m l do ti kho nhum. Khi nhum ngi ta tht nt vi li, sao cho nhng ch thuc nhum khng thm vo c, nhum xong, ni hin ln nhng bng hoa trng gia nn hng, hay xanh, ch tha ch mau. Khi ngi np trong gu vy l ra tng on khoe mu bng hoa. Trang phc ca ngi Mng cng c sc v ni bt bi s h tr ca rt nhiu trang sc nh khuyn tai, trm ci u, vng c, vng tay, x tch. Ngy thng, nhng trang sc ny nh l th vt qu, nht l nhng trang sc bng bc, ngi ta ct gi trong hm, trong rng.