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A Summer Internship Report submitted in partial Fulfilment of the requirement for the
award of Degree in
Department of Fashion Technology- Apparel Production





Department of Fashion Technology

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
CHENNAI

2009-2013



Submitted by:
DIWAKAR KUMAR
(B.F.TECH (AP))

2

Acknowledgement
Hard work, guidance, perseverance are the prerequisites for achieving success.
Support from an enlightening source helps to tread on the path to it. We would like to
express our gratitude towards the esteemed institution National Institute of Fashion
Technology for being such an enlightening source to us. My sincere thanks to our
faculties for their valuable support, help and guidance inspired us throughout the
course of this project. We would like to thank Shahi Exports Private Limited (Knits),
Bangalore for selecting us as an internee, who is being inspiring and helps to
broaden the knowledge of Lean Manufacturing.
We sincerely thank our Mr.Venkatesh Babu, Director, Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd., for
his support and cooperation for inspiring us and providing all possible knowledge
and help for this project. The technical assistance, precious suggestions and strong
monitoring of various heads of the department, helped us in completing the work. We
would like to thank for all facilities and the support extended to us during the course
of the project.
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Ms. Ritika Sharma and Ms. Kavita
Sudhakar, Executive (HR) and Mohd. Ifthikar, General Manager (Lean
Transformation) for his keen interest in students intuitive development and providing
all possible inspiration and platform to work in an excellent environment.
This project would not have been possible without the valuable inputs from Mr. Gokul
M. (Asst. Manager, Lean Transformation), Mr. Mukul Pati Singh (Process Planning,
Lean Transformation), Mr. Kalidasa (Factory Manager) Mr Swapnil Kumbhar, Mr.
Ravi Pendayala, Mr. Subha Prasad, Mr. Nithyananthan S. (Industrial Engineer), Mr.
Dhananjaya, Mohd. Aslam (Cutting Manager), Mr. Srinavasan (Bitting Head). I thank
them for all their support.

Diwakar Kumar
DEPT. OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
NIFT, Chennai

3

CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the Internship Project at SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD.
submitted towards partial fulfillment of the Degree in Department of Fashion
Technology by DIWAKAR KUMAR is his original work under my guidance and the
results are based on the project done by him.



Mr. A. O. Abdul Salam Sait Mr. D Samuel Wesely
Assistant Professor Associate Professor
DFT Co- ordinator
NIFT, Chennai DFT
NIFT, Chennai

4

DECLARATION

I, DIWAKAR KUMAR hereby declare that the internship project at SHAHI
EXPORTS PVT. LTD submitted towards partial fulfillment of Degree in Department
of fashion Technology is my original work and no part of the project has been copied
from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else which has been
submitted for any other degree/award. However, any material taken from other
published source has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various places.


Name: Diwakar Kumar
Roll Number: 09/0012
Batch: 2009-2013
Centre: Chennai

Date: 14/09/2012
Place: Chennai








5

ABSTRACT
This document is an account of the study and project work done during my Summer
Internship Report submitted in partial Fulfilment of the requirement for the award of
Degree in Department of Fashion Technology- Apparel Production at Shahi Exports
Private Limited (Knits), Bangalore, as a part of fulfilment of my course curriculum.
The ideas of pull production managed by Kanban cards are well documented in the
literature and are in practice worldwide. Kanban is a well known toolkit of Lean which
has become popular over recent years. Many companies are using Kanban to
change and improve their own business and production situations and many
companies have achieved great results by successful implementations.
Kanban was introduced in Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd. (Knits) in the fall 2011, when the
company was facing poor accountability, overload dead stock, late shipment and
excessive inventory. The customers are losing from the company and Kanban
dragged Shahi Exports out of this swamp. At present, Shahi Exports (Knits) is still on
the implementing process of its updated Kanban philosophy. There are many
obstacles to overcome, a lot of vagueness to be clarified, a crowd of aspects to be
improved.
Facing this dynamic implementing condition, this project is expected to yield in a
more practical oriented way, in order to deal with the existing problem in Shahi
Exports Pvt Ltd. (Knits).
In this project Kanban Practices Improvement through Super Market concept
and Label Procedure; the Super market concept has been implemented for the
better accountability, less time consumption, easily manageable and for home
delivery of Bits to cutting table.

6

Executive Summary
This project was carried out at Shahi Exports Private Limited, Bangalore, Karnataka.
The project was carried under the guidance of Mohd. Ifthikar, General Manager,Mr.
Gokul Mohansundaram, Assistant Manager, Mr. Mukul Pati Singh, Associate Lean
Transformation as our project guides. The project deals with the wrong practices of
Kanban tool and improving the performances of Kanban through super market
concept. Because of the time constraints we have to limit our scope to four floors
only.
The research is carried out in 67 lines of four floors. First of all ideal Kanban
practices has been studied in two floor and comparing that practices with the rest of
the two floors, we can scrutinize the problems which are in the way of executing that
practices in other floors.

7

CONTENTS
Sl. No. Topic Page no.
1. Project Introduction 9
2. Overview of Company 10
3. Section A- Company Overview 11
4. Introduction 12
5. Company profile 13
6. Company mission 13
7. Corporate values 13
8. Key strength 14
9. Product profile 14
10. Shahi Awards 14
11. Major buyers 16
12. Company heirarchy 17
13. Organization heirarchy 18
14. Product classification 19
15 Products 20
16. Fabrication 20
17. Organization structure 21
Department study
18. Merchandising 23
19. Sampling 36
20. Fabric sourcing 41
21. Purchase 43
22. CAD 46
23. Total Quality Assurance(TQA) 49
24. Central planning 53
25. Central IED 57
26. Business intelligence 62
27. Accounts 63
28. Human resource management 65
29. Pre-production/R&D 70
30. Factory planning 84
31. Factory id 86
32. Bitting 90
33. Production 92
34. Maintenance 110
35. Fabric stores 113
36. Trims and accessories store 121
37. Printing 124
38. Embroidery 126
39. Washing 131
40. Laboratory 136
41. Section B project 139
42. Literature review 142
43. KANBAN 154
44. Terminology 178
8

45. Responsibility 179
46. Methodology 180
47. Analysis of KANBAN 182
48. Work instruction 189
49. KANBAN SOP 194
50. Supermarket 196
51. Annexure 203
52. References 212


9

PROJECT INTRODUCTION
In recent years, Kanban has become an essential tool for sustaining the Lean
Manufacturing. To improve the operation condition and business many companies
are adapting to Kanban system. And many companies have successfully
implemented Kanban with the help of their Lean teams.
Kanban was introduced in Shahi Exports Private Limited in the fall 2011. However
its been only six months but company is receiving the outcome with few
obstructions. During this time, the Kanban philosophy has been updated to the
second version. There are many obstacles need to conquer which will increase the
performance of the company. To find that obstacles this project is introduced. This
Kanban Practices Improvement through Super Market concept and
Label Procedure implementing stage provides an open, dynamic, inspired
environment to process this project.
This project will attempt to cover all the areas of Kanban in Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
The project is about what Kanban is and how it works.

10

OVERVIEW OF THE COMPANY
Mrs. Sarla Ahuja and Mr. Harish Ahuja were the pioneer in starting Shahi Exports
Private Limited, which had been established in Faridabad, Haryana way back in
1974. It expands by 60 times by last 38 years with annual turnover of 820 crores and
became largest manufacturer/ exporter of ready-to-wear garments for mens,
womens and kids.
Shahi extended its operations in Bangalore by 1st July 1988 with 250 associates and
104 machines whereas the functioning of knit division as a separate entity on 23rd
August 2001. Shahi exports knit division consists of unit 11,12,14,20, 22, 26 and 30.
The biggest plant of knit division is unit 12 which is having a manufacturing capacity
of 16 lakh pieces per month and employed about 5600 associates. This unit is
having 67 production lines with 2600 machines whereas almost 70500 cuts per day
have been executed using 127 cutting tables. The embroidery section amounts to 7
million stitches per shift.
There are various units in Bangalore handling Woven garments and Knitted
garments.
Unit No.12 belongs to Knit Division and Unit No.7 belongs to Woven Division All the
activities of Woven Division in Bangalore, Corporate HR of Woven, Organisation
Development-Corporate HR of Knits at Bangalore & Tirupur are coordinated from the
main office unit-7 at Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore 5600102, and

Shahi extended its operations in Bengaluru by 1st July 1988 with 250 associates
and 104 machines whereas the functioning of knit division as a separate entity on
23rd August 2001.


11










SECTION- A
Company Overview

12

INTRODUCTION

SHAHI Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in the manufacture and export of readymade
garments in the International market. It is one of the largest export houses in India.
The company started its operations in the form of a small fabrication unit with the
help of 25 machines.
The company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple fabrication unit to
present turnover of Rs. 2200 crore, around 55000 employees and spread over 27
locations. It has manufacturing units in six different states of India viz. Delhi,
Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. The group is
into manufacturing of a wide range of Mens and Ladies wear.

SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with state-of-the-art technology
giving the best to its buyers.

Its manufacturing facilities includes Assembly line machines, Prima Vision system for
print/fabric development, Meyer fusing press, Barudan and Tajima, Multi head
computerized embroidery machine, in house washing plant, automatic cutting
machines (F.K. Systems).
SHAHI has a well-equipped sampling division where latest patterns/designs/styles of
high standards are developed with the assistance of experienced designers.
It has a training center for tailors at Faridabad and Bangalore each to train and
develop them into vital human resource for efficient operations.

As regards to quality, SHAHI has been ranked one of the best in Asia by J.C.Penny,
the world-renowned departmental stores.

13

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Shahi Exports Private Limited (Knits) Bangalore
Established: 23rd August 2001
Owner: Mrs. Sarla Ahuja
Managing Director: Mr. Harish Ahuja
Director: Mr. Venkatesh Babu
CEO: Mr. Ramalingam (Unit-12)
VP: Mr. Balaji T
Address: Sy. No. 37/1B, 43/2 & 43/3, Arekere Village Bannerghatta Road,
Bangalore
Work Force: More than 30,000
Capacity: Over 60 lakh quality garments per month
Retail House: At Last & Co. , New York
Fabric Processing: Tirupur Division
Annual Turnover: INR 2200 crore (Group Turnover)

COMPANY MISSION

Exploring new dimensions of excellence. A path, where there was none. A new
horizon beyond yesterday. Excellence beyond today, touching tomorrow. Its a world
of relentless quest for quality. Its mindset, the action, and partners of Shahi are ever
reaching further, never resting on achievements. Yes! Milestone never takes one
there; it is the road that we create to reach excellence. Ever evolving excellence.
Shahi believes that its main strength is its people. The larger investments made in
the manufacturing units will give the desired results only if backed by a committed
human effort. The result will directly give us a sense of pride for being a part of Shahi
family.

CORPORATE VALUES

Guiding principles illuminate the path that leads to their destination. SHAHI
emphasizes on some guiding principles, which are indicative of the values it believes
in and would like to continue in the organization. These are the building blocks of the
organizational culture. The company believes in:
High level of honesty and a sense of responsibility.
Two-way communication channel for all purposes of communication.
In sharing the fruit of growth, prosperity with its partners i.e. the employees.
In giving each individual room to contribute and grow.

The company firmly believes that team spirit is the hallmark of success.

14

KEY STRENGTHS
Shahi Exports Private Limited (Shahi) is one of the largest vertically integrated
garment manufacturer and exporter in India.
Indias second largest apparel exporter by value of exports.
Shahi is one of the most successful professionally managed companies in
India.
Indias largest exporter by installed capacity.
Well qualified trained and committed professionals with a shared vision.
Highly qualified Design team, Product development skills and a Design
Studio.
High degree of adoption of advanced manufacturing technology MIS and IT
systems.
All factories and offices are electronically linked to facilitate all time access to
information
Focus on quality and a proven track record.

Short shipment: 0.50%
On time delivery: 98%
Quality claims: Nil.

PRODUCT PROFILE
The following are based and operated
1. LSD Ladies Speciality Division
2. LBAD Ladies branded Apparel Division
3. LFD Ladies Fashion Division (basically caters to Wal-Mart)
4. HFD Home Furnishing Division
SHAHI AWARDS

President of India Award
Awards from Apparel Export Promotion Council (New Delhi)
Supplier of the year award from Walmart
Canara Bank Award
Industrial Architectural Building Award
Woman Entrepreneur Award
Health & Safety Award from Government of Haryana.
Award for the Best Crche in the Garment Industry


15

Customer base:

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., has customers who are the leading shopping chains, with
head offices at Europe and USA, where as their retail out lets are spread all over the
world. As garment manufacturing is a Fashion-lead industry, the customer
requirements are continuously getting changed. The uniqueness with versatility and
competitive prices are the demanding factors.

Depending on the needs of the customers, the market is segmented as Premium
Wear, Fashion Business and Mass retailing. Approximately 10 to 15% is targeted for
Premium Wears, 40 to 50% for Fashion Business and remaining for Mass Retailing.
Each Manager in Marketing Department is allotted a combination of these segments,
which are supported by their Merchandisers.

Success of a business depends entirely on the understanding the buyers' needs &
satisfying the same fully. Infrastructure, Plant & Machinery, Expertise of highly skilled
& qualified professionals & commitment to quality have earned it a high degree of trust
to its valuable buyers.

16

MAJOR BUYERS

Matalan
Gap
Old Navy
JC Penny
Abercrombie & Fitch
Kohls
Target
Benetton
American Eagles
Calvin Klein
Next
Esprit
Hennes & Mauritz
Debenhams
Red Skin
Armand Theiry
French Connection
Nicole Farhi
Mexx
Cecil
Karen Miller
Whistles
Steilman
Little Woods
Koal
Tommy Hilfiger
EDC
George
DKNY
Mango
Banana Republic
J Jill

17

COMPANY HEIRARCHY

18

ORGANISATION HIERARCHY


19


20

PRODUCTS
Mens/ Boys:
Polo
Crew Neck
Henley
Raglan
Hoody
V Neck
Fleece Jacket
Tracksuit
Womens / Girls:
Camisole
Embellished Top
Tee
Cap sleeve Top
Strap Tank Top
Vest
Skirt
Fabrication
All Cotton & Cotton blended fabrics will be manufactured in-house. We also import
various blended fabrics suiting to our buyer requirements.
Single Jersey
Pique
Sheer Jersey
Interlock
Waffle
Ottoman
Flat Back Rib
Yarn Dyed Striper
Mini-Jacquard
Electronic Jacquard
Velour
Pointel
Suede
Rib 1x1, 2x2
Variegated Rib
Cotton Fleece
Polyester Fleece

21



Details of Departments
1. Marketing & Sourcing includes Sample Development, Merchandising,
Sourcing of Fabric, and getting yarns converted into fabrics
2. Production includes Cutting and Sorting, Sewing, Finishing, Washing,
Embroidery, Printing and Quality Assurance.
3. Planning includes Central planning section.
4. Organization Development includes Corporate HRD, Plant HRD, General
Administration, and Training and Lean team.
5. Business Intelligence looks after Stores [Fabric, Central and auxiliary] and
Costing.
6. Purchase includes Accessories and General purchase.
7. TPM includes Safety team
8. PPE includes Pre production execution, Industrial Engineering/PDV functions
and Training.


22

DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS IN COMPANY
1. Marketing and Merchandising
2. Sampling
3. CAD
4. Fabric sourcing
5. Purchase
6. TQA
7. Central planning
8. Central IED
9. Business intelligence
10. Account
11. Human Resource Management (Factory HRD/ Corporate HRD )
12. Pre-production Execution / R&D
13. Factory planning
14. Factory IED
15. Bits cutting
16. Production
17. Maintenance
18. Fabric store
19. Trims & accessories store
20. Printing
21. Embroidery
22. Washing
23. Laboratory

23

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to
ensure the quality of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process
through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the
buyers. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish.
ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT
To look for the appropriate market
To get the samples made according to the buyers specification
To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with
them
Getting orders
Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval
To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production
Co-ordinating with the PPC and production
OBJECTIVE OF MERCHANDISER
To create market
Understanding buyers requirements
Sourcing of materials, fabrics
Select the range
Creating the product
Taking buyers approvals
Negotiation with buyer
Procuring the orders
Materializing the order
Execution the order
Coordination between production and production planning department
Dispatching the shipment

After shipment dispatching merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claims, profit
and subsequent orders. If buyer has any problem in quality of the product then it is
the responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer.

24



25


26

Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed,
executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the
development of product line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising
department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit
controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made
according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising
Main function of marketing merchandising is
Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has
direct contact with the buyer.
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start
and ends till shipment.
A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:-
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows

27

FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT
In an export house, like Shahi, merchandising is a combination of business and
technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products
development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meets buyers
expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers
have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers,
overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and
get samples approved for fit, colour and quality. Communications with overseas and
domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and development of fabric and
yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other
departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out
delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that
merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for
the cost of production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-
development stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely
to be incurred per piece.
These costs include general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost,
mark up cost etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a
final costing is done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.

28


29


30

Basic activities required to be done
1. Receiving the order from Buyer and other relevant samples and product
information.
2. Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams.
3. Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers.
4. Follow-up of sample approvals from Buyers and notifying comments if any to
respective teams.
5. Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and follow-up
for approval prior to the bulk production.
6. Conducting meetings required for the order preparation and order execution.
7. Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action
Calendar) across throughout processes.
8. Release of material requirements to sourcing function.
9. Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time.
10. Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs.
11. Handing over the folders and style information to PPC and IE for Calculations
and Tentative Planning
12. Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.

DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING SECTION

1) ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP:
This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The
buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with the information
regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility and the setting up of
delivery dates for the shipment.
This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyers
representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic
conversations.
The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments
taking place regarding the order.
The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the
merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other
departments.


31

2) PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS:
The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the
particular order. This also includes the following :
Fabric quality details
Thread Details
Finish Details
Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc.
Prints and Embroidery
Trims like buttons, zippers
Wash care labels
Size labels
Brand labels
Packing Material details
Hangtags
Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also
receive the Fabric consumption per garment for each size from the sampling
section, Thread consumption per garment from the Planning department and
the accessories requirement per garment from the sampling department.
Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of
Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the requirement of all the
parts going into the making of the garment. Each of the material is stated
above is mentioned per garment.

3) COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:
The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the
sampling department.
The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the
relevant details.
The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising department
and the plan is given to the sampling section.
The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial
approvals according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The
nsamples are sent to the buyer for approvals only when they are approved
by the merchandising department.
The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising about the
types of samples required by the buyer.
The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and
makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes
made in all the required areas.
32

4) INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED
BY THE BUYER:

The Technical Folder/Tec pack is the reference for each department whenever it
comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his
requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The
following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all the
buyers:
Size wise quantity
Colour Wise Quantity
Destination wise quantity
Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots
Total Order quantity
Cutting Details
Construction Sheet
Finishing and Packing Details
Specification Sheet
Measurement Chart
Fabric Details
1. GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
2. Fabric construction
3. Fiber types
4. Fabric width
5. Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
6. Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
7. Fabric Swatch
Trims Details
1. Button Size
2. Threads used
3. Thread tkt no.
4. Labels details
5. Trims Swatches
Accessory Details






33


COSTING





































Total Cost
Accessories
Trims
Embroidery
Packaging
Fabric Cost
Washing
Cut Make Cost
Zipper
Buttons
Bead Work
Threads
Labels
Size Label
Wash Care
Label
Company Tag
34

COSTING SHEET

The costing sheet is the addition of all the costs involved in the making of the
garment and then it is coated to the buyers. It contains per piece and the total cost
(of all the pieces). It includes the details like, cost of fabric, trims, washing,
embroidery, sampling, testing, freight, duty, insurance etc.
Basic costs while calculating costing are -
1. Factory costs
2. Trim costs
3. Yield costs
4. Cost of embroidery

1. FACTORY COST: - Factory cost includes cutting cost, making cost , packing
cost. It depends basically on the style. The complex the style, higher the rate
proportions.
2. TRIMS COST: - Trims can be both local and imported. Imported trims can be
duty free or otherwise. It includes label cost, accessories cost, button cost,
Zipper cost, washing cost etc. Trims cost is taken including wastage. The
nominated supplier of trims of Pearl Global Ltd. Is AVERY DENNISON.
3. YEILD COST: - It is an estimation of average consumption of fabric. It is
decided by preparing a mini marker which includes wastage of fabric due to
laying, cutting, fabric defect, end cutting loss, marker loss. Average of 10%
extra margin is taken.
4. COST OF EMBROIDERY: - Cost of embroidery includes the machine
depreciation cost, and it is proportional to the number of stitches used. The
time taken from the coming of the order to the day of shipment is 2-3 months.
Basically this is the total processing time of the sample from approval of the
sample. 45 days are kept by the merchandiser for the production. Fabric is the
main cause of delay so merchandiser keeps few days for the safer side. The
merchandiser also coordinates with the Production Planning department,
Quality department, Fabric department, Production department, Finishing
department, washing department. The merchandiser also to keeps a track of
the styles and make sure everything moves as per order on time.






35

MANUFACTURING COST

The manufacturing costing is done according to the assumed SMV which is given by
IE viz. if the garment SMV is 6 min then actual manufacturing cost will be 60 i.e. 9-10
mark up is multiplied with SMV. The cost which is charged from buyer is 200 by
adding 25% profit.

Costing is done
I. Style-wise Costing
In pre-cost, includes actual fabric cost, trims cost and value added cost like
handwork, artwork, add a work, embroidery etc.
Production Cost + Raw material Cost + Contribution





Pre-Cost

The costs involved in each process are
Stitching = 1.10 (piece charge) + 25% = Rs 1.55/garment
Cutting = Rs 2
Finishing = Rs 5
Direct Cost (Manpower Department wise) = Rs 10
Indirect Cost (Sub Department) = Rs 4
Overheads (Plant+ M/c rent+ Electricity+ Water + Fuel) = Rs 17-20

MERCHANDISE COST
When pattern master prepared the pattern and the sample is made according to the
pattern. Then mini- marker is prepared in CAD and average costing is being done.

The average costing is done by below formulae-
{Total length + margin (5cm)} * {Total width + Margin (5cm)}* GSM/ 10000 = A
A/no. of pieces = Total cost of the garment

Merchandise prepared the costing sheet including factory cost, Trim cost, Yield Cost
and embroidery cost. Then the costing sheet is send to the buyer and if the cost
satisfies the buyer then only order of that product is given.
36

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT
The sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a
vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the
merchandising and production department. Sampling is done to see how the product
will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any
discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyers specification.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches,
fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser.
Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding costing, average,
proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style package and hands it over to
the Sampling department head.
TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample
Fit Sample
Pilot Run Sample
Pre Production Sample
Pre Size set
Size Set
TOP Sample
Shipment Sample
Sales Sample


37

FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number
of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval
from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sampled garments represent the
accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and techniques. The
samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer
regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric
consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department
makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in
the tech pack.
Proto Sample
Buyers give either a specification sheet which is called Tech pack or only sketches
and mention the age group of the users and define the styles. If buyer demands the
samples on substitute fabric then it is send to buyer on substitute fabric along with
costing. The costing part was done by merchandisers. On the basis of costing
merchandisers negotiate with buyer. Proto sample is sent for confirmation of style
and looks of the garment. Once proto sample is approved by the buyer then the
fabric, colour, trims etc. are also decided.

Fit Sample:
While fabric and trim ordering is happening, simultaneously the sample approval
procedure is also underway. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech
department for fitting. Here models wear the samples and they are evaluated in
terms of fit, construction, measurement. The buyer then sends out comments, which
are called as fit comments. In case another sample is requested the factory makes
the same incorporating the comments and send again to buyer. This process is
called fit cycle. Different customers have different no of fit cycles.

PP Sample:
Once the fit sample is approved the factory makes a PP (Pre-production) sample.
This can be called by different names such as sealer sample, green tag sample etc.
This sample is sent out the buyer for final approval and once approved becomes the
final sample on the basis of which entire production is made and audited. This is the
most important sample and one should take care that everything on this sample is
correct as this then becomes the standard.
38

Once PP sample is approved the next step is to make a SIZE SET. All the fit
samples and the PP samples are in the medium size, now the medium size is these
are then graded into the different sizes as per the purchase order. But this all activity
of size-set is done in the pre-production execution department after the pp approval.


THE DETAILS ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT SAMPLE
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following
details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both,
what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used
(if applicable).
Ref no., Colour
Fabric :Composition, Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size

Machine details
There were a total of 300 machines in the sampling department.
250 operators
9 Batch
5 cutting tables
20 pattern making tables
1 conveyor belt fusing machine

Finishing machines
11 ironing tables
1 H/T label machine

39


40


41

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the
merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within
the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have knowledge about all
varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively
FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT
STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas
(a) Checked fabric and
(b) Unchecked fabric.
Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever
needed in future.
FABRIC ISSUE
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one
go; instead it is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style
no, colour, buyers name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which production
unit.

42

PROCESS FLOW SOURCING


























Co-ordinate with fabric audit &
factory for quantity and quality
checking.

Fabric receipt

PO release to supplier

Supplier selection

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

PO confirmation

Receiving order from
Merchants

Receiving order from
Merchants

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

Supplier selection

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

PO confirmation

Supplier selection

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

PO release to supplier

PO confirmation

Supplier selection

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

Fabric receipt

PO release to supplier

PO confirmation

Supplier selection

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

Co-ordinate with fabric audit & factory
for quantity and quality checking.

Fabric receipt

PO release to supplier


PO confirmation

Supplier selection

Rate quotation from
supplier

Technical analysis/ vendor
evaluation/ selection

Receiving order from
Merchants

43

PURCHASE DEPARTMENT
Objective of the department
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main
difference is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while
the purchasing department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However,
the working procedure is the same
Functioning of the department
The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further
process and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in
the production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the
complete procedure involved for its production. In the process of doing the in-house
price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then a Taxes of 2% + 14%
of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the transportation charges and
this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is also taken into
consideration).
This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the
costing purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is
confirmed by the buyer based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the
other concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup
of the trims and accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by
the merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is
generally followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the
concerned department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw
materials is sent by the supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the
buyer.
After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and
also checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced
if any of them are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of
all the quantities received in-house timely. The goods are generally received in
breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according to the requirements stated by
the planning and the production department and this breakups will have specified
date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being
placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and POs have to be sent
all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.
44

Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as
and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular
style and then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have
to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those
materials.
DEPARTMENT HIERARCHY:

Manager- purchase

Asst manager

Executive

There are two teams one team is handling all the thread, button, sequin, zipper
section and other team is handling the all types of the laces, trims fabric, packing
material, label these type of the different , different section is handle by these team
for the ordering
They ordering the trims is as per the MOQ and as per the lead-time also for different
trims different lead-time is there so they order accordingly.


45

PROCESS FLOW PURCHASE























Follow up with stores for any
short age/ excess

Sending docs to documentation
dept.- for imports only

Follow ups for the Shipping
docs- for imports only

P.O send to accounts

Raising P.O. in ERP

P.O confirmation

Proposal

Supplier price quotation and negotiation Adjust existing quantity

Check existing
stocks
Booking from Merchants
46

CAD DEPARMTENT

GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are
made with help of Optitex software package.

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
Determining cutting average for costing
Making the most efficient cutting marker
Development and alteration of patterns
Development of size set pattern by grading
Embroidery graphics making
Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
Graded measurement spec sheet.
Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form
(Open roll or folded form), roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor,
buyer etc.

PROCESS CHART








Digitising
Grading
Order and Processing the
Marker
Plotter Marker Making
47

DIGITISING
Digitizing is a process of implementing the pattern of a particular style which are fed
into the computer system by using a digitizer and specially designed cursor for
computerized marker making. The paper patterns are placed on digitizer with the
help of magic tape. The care must be taken while placing the pattern on the digitizer
board. The pattern should be free from any folds and the grain line of the patterns
should be parallel to x-axis. Pattern information such as an order name, pattern
description, and grain line are fed into the system. Every corner of the pattern is
traced by the cursor so as to get the exact shape of the pattern. Once all the
information is correctly fed into the system, then only the computer software accepts
the particular pattern and saves it on the system. These digitized patterns are thus
ready for grading.

GRADING
Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern pieces to
create larger or smaller size. The starting point can be the smallest size or the
middle size. Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its general shape and
appearance.

ORDER AND PROCESSING OF MARKER
Pattern information is put. Models are formed by grouping and lay limits are set.

PLOTTING
The marker is printed with the help of Gerber plotter and spread on top of the lay.
This helps in recognition of garment parts after cutting.

MARKER MAKING
Marker is the best possible arrangement of all pattern pieces in the available width of
the fabric so has to utilize minimum fabric and reduce fabric wastage. All the
required information is fed into the system by the digitizing. The patterns are ready
for marker making. Individual pieces can be moved around the screen using a
mouse, to produce an optimized layout the system is programmed to calculate
material utilization i.e. efficiency and cutting waste. Before making the final marker, a
combination of pattern arrangements, in a given width, are made so as to achieve
maximum efficiency.



48

PROCESS FLOW


























Receive patterns
from pattern
Digitize pattern
to feed in
Pattern correction
Pattern grading
Cut ratio
planning
Market planning
according to the
cut plan ratio
Output mini
marker to
printer
Output marker
to plotter
Send to cutting
room for cutting
Send to
merchandiser for
costing
Output to
Graphtec
plotter
Pattern sent to
merchandiser for
sampling
WORK FLOW
IN CAD
DEPARTMENT

49

QUALITY DEPARTMENT

This department is responsible for the quality assurance at each stage of the
product.The stages are that of raw material, Work In Progress and the Finished
Materials. The following are the various areas where the TQA department functions:

FABRIC INSPECTION:
The incoming fabrics are tested on the 4 point system. 10% of the fabric quantity is
sent for inspection. The format used for maintaining inspection records is mentioned
in the later.
Preparation of shade card
Centre to selvedge report
shrinkage report
Width checking report
Fusing shrinkage report

Fabric Quality Control Inspection Report
It is the inspection report of the fabric when it is received in company. It consists of
supplier name, fabric code, meter age received, meter age inspected, construction
etc. it looks like following.
1) Bale no.
2) Meter age in stickers.
3) Actual meter age
4) Actual width (min, max)
5) T.P.I
6) Penalty points in knitting faults
7) Penalty points in dyeing and printing faults
8) Penalty points in stubs/stains/holes.
With this information we decide whether the fabric it to be accepted or rejected, or if
some compensation is to be taken.

CUTTING INSPECTION:
The cutting Inspection is done according to the Tech Pack, Approvals, AQL level
defect standards and style technical specification.


50

For uncut parts inspection:
Verify spec vs. patterns
Cross check fabric reports and approvals
Verify lay height and lay parameters
Verify number of parts placed as per mini marker
Inspect numbering
Ensure fusing performance
Verify various reports
Checking for more shrunk layers in the lay.

For cut parts inspection:
Verify all size patterns against the spec.
Verify shrinkages have been added into the patterns.
Cross verify pattern released are for all colours or there are colour wise
patterns.
Make sure patterns are as per the matching/stripe placement requirement
esp. In case of y/dyed
Placement of notches is as per the requirement of the style.

FUSING PROCESS:
For the fusing process, the following parameters are checked.
Air pressure adjusted according to the fusing requirements.
Temperature maintained and measured by the thermo strip regularly.
Quality of fusing material like bubbling area, colour change, fabric staining,
fused area bond strength, after washing of fused quality and checking the
weight performance.

BATCH INSPECTION:
Check the garments at the INLINE and END LINE Inspection points.
Verify In line and End line inspection reports.
Verify and instruct the in line and end line measurement report.
Arrange passed pieces for batch audit.
Compare tech pack with sample received and highlight discrepancy between
tech pack and sample.
Constructional details.
Colour wise trims and their placement.
Spec sheet against pattern, sample
Art work approvals, placements, grading.
PP/Sealer/Size set/Pilot comments for the style or any comments by buyer.
51

Constructional specification of the particular operation being done before the
in line inspection.
SPI, stretch ability of particular operation, needle damages.
Material swatch/trim swatch/ colour wise main label, wash care label
swatches and placement in garment.
Diagrammatic representation of critical parts like placket /pockets with
measurements.

FINAL AUDIT - Final Audit is done internally (by quality auditor) as well as externally
(by buyer's QC). They use statistical Quality Control as their tool as check few pieces
so as to get the idea of the lot.

AQL
Generally the AQL followed in the finishing department is 2.5. This may vary from
buyer to buyer.
There is a separate inspection room in the finishing department. This is maintained
for the QA of the buyers who come randomly to check the quality of the garments of
their respective buyers .When the buyer comes, he randomly selects cartons
(depending upon the AQL). From the cartons he selects pieces. He checks the
garment according to the specifications. He may pass the lot or find some defects. If
the garments are below standard, he may reject the lot.


52

GENERALISED AQL SHEET

Shipped Qty Audit Qty AQL 1 AQL 2.5 AQL 4 AQL 6.5 AQL 10
1-15 3 0 0 0 0 1
16-25 5 0 0 0 1 1
26-50 8 0 0 1 1 2
51-90 13 0 1 1 2 3
91-150 20 0 1 2 3 5
151-280 32 1 2 3 5 7
281-500 50 1 3 5 7 10
501-1200 80 2 5 7 10 14
1201-3200 125 3 7 10 14 21
3201-10000 200 5 10 14 21 21
10001-35000 315 7 14 21 21 21
35001-
150000
500 10 21 21 21 21



Any measurement is found out of tolerance and falls into Critical Defect column, that
garment falls and will be accounted for a defective in the manufacturing and finished
appearance audit plan.

53

CENTRAL PLANNING DEPARTMEN
Process Flow

Start
On receiving the orders, allocate the
same to units based on line
openings and buyers ratings
Provide details to the respective
units on PCD, order quantity &
sample
Confirm the above details
given to concerned units in
consultation with GM & FM
Confirm in consultation
with embroidery,
washing departments
Confirm order plan with
merchandising team
Provide MIS report to
management every fortnight
Planning follow up with factory
till order execution
End
Take inputs from
IED on productivity
based on garment
analysis
54


Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps
the merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the
merchants if the company is capable of producing the particular style in the given
span of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.

On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having
the PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved
which are, planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department
will allocate the style to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the
obtained project based on the line openings and also buyers specifications and the
skill of labor required for it.

The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular
unit in which that particular order has been placed with.

The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with
three other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling
dates for the particular style this will take about 10 15 days from the merchandiser
approves the order that has to be followed.

Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of
components in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the
garment, types of machines required to finish the garment, any specialized machine
is required or not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved during
stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level
required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with
respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment for all
the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning
entire style.

Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation
with the GM and FM.

Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get
a confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots
55

for the dates on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and
then after confirmation they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach
the embroidery, washing and finishing departments.

After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper
confirmation obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the
order plan with the merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information
System) report to the management every fortnight, then they prepare a Batch
Commitment Sheet and this sheet is prepared about 3 5 days before the cutting
date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the batch that has taken
up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are committed to
produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators and
to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned).
This sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of
the batch.

Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a Batch Variance
Sheet, this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this
sheet the updating of the style in the production floor is done and is given to the
merchants on daily basis.

Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is
completely being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.

The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to
the production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch
/sewing line must sit idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.

The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like
the IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within
the different departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through
phone calls but any types of mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or
any such modifying sort of a situation then the department maintains a hard copy of
it for the future reference and confirmation.

56

PROCESS FLOW FOR PLANNING DEPARTMENT























Order allocation through central planning
Line planning
PCD Finalization
Shipment schedule
Materials flow up
Daily production
monitoring and updating
merchants
Shipments follow up
PO wise, style wise
1. WIP 1:1.4 to 1:1.6
2. Order monitoring for cutting,
loading, sewing, washing,
finishing and shipment
3. Communication through E-
mail
Based on purchase order
1. 10% of fabric to start an order
2. 30% of trims to start an order
3. Confirmation of delivery date
1. Line wise
2. Style wise
3. Based on available capacity
Follow up with purchase, merchant
and supplier if required
Control limits
1. PO release through Movex
2. Rate approval
3. Vendor evaluation
Dispatch
Release of work
order for
printing/dyeing if
any
57

CENTRAL IED DEPARTMENT
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department
gives the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims
consumption criteria, operators skill level categorization and other related aspects
hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the
garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of
garment.

Central IED:
This department is a supporting department. It mainly works with marketing and
production. It also supports other departments like TPM, R&D, and Sampling etc.
The merchant, upon receiving a tech pack, a visual or a sample garment from the
Buyer will forward that to the department. This department will prepare an Operation
Bulletin as per the details given in the tech pack as well as SMV for each operation
will also be calculated with the help of a software and GSD (garment sewing data).
Then as per the efficiency slab and as per the required order quantity, the efficiency
of the order is set. The efficiency slab is given below:


Then again as per the order quantity, run time of each garment is decided and
cost/minute of each garment is decided. It is calculated by Total Cost/Total Minutes.
Similarly cost per minute of cutting and finishing is also set. Apart from that costing
for embroidery, printing and washing is obtained from the respective departments
and then added to the cost sheet. He will forward the cost details to the merchant,
who will, in turn, quote the price to the buyer. All these activities are done before
order confirmation.
Order Quantity Efficiency Slab
0 1.5 K 24%
1.5 3 K 30%
3 6.5 K 37%
6.5 10 K 40%
10 20 K 51%
20 30 K 58%
30 50 K 63%
50 100 K 65%
Above 100 K 70%
58

Once the merchant gets the confirmation, the merchant will again send back the
sample for cross checking the operation bulleting with the garment. If any changes
are to be made, then it done in the OB. Entries are made in the movex software for
costing and BI will lock the cost sheet.
Again for the third time, during the running of size set in the R&D department, the
sample will come to this department. This time, the Operation Bulletin will be
converted into layout type according to line layout (all the details for example what
machines should be there). This OB is given to the concerned IE Department. The
machine list is also generated here, which will be given to the TPM department, who
will arrange the machines before bulk production commences.

59

IE DEPARTMENT

Objective of the department
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department
gives the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims
consumption criteria, operators skill level categorization and other related aspects
hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the
garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of
garment.
Functioning of the department.
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the
production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it
and they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the
planning department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or no.
The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the
given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories
consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising
department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on
these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the
reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and
the method of doing it.
The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin
which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the
garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that
has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers
specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement
of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are
supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be
checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be
mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but
contains more technical data than that.

This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an
hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and
also helps in timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give
the target to each operator based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them
finish their piece of work on time and also maintain the quality of their work.

After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate
the efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well
as the single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the
particular batch.

This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed
output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value),
total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency
60

achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was a delay of
production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the
mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.

Based on the operators performance which would have been observed for a
specified period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is
as follows.


The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,
20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
55% - Semi skilled

This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.
Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operators skill and his
efficiency, working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a
training for about 45 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning
and grasping capacity a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the
operator/new employee knows or has a previous work experience in a garment
industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have done in
the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hours test to know his skills
and then grade is been allocated.

Every day the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a
production review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the
line and the operation carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is
not giving the estimated efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line
plan and review it and later follow the right one.

Skill type Grade
A Highly skilled
B Skilled
C Semi skilled
61

PROCESS FLOW OF IED

Batch
performance

Style
bulletin

Batch
layout

Efficiency calculation

Capacity study

Line balancing

Skill
matrix

Selection of
operators,
helpers,
supervisors,
checkers, QC, etc
Hourly production
tracking

Prepare O.B

Calculate
accessories
consumption

Systems
development

Pre-prod. Activities

Production Dept.

Training, selection &
development

62

BUSINESS INTELLIGENCE DEPARTMENT
This department is work for the helping the company for knowing the all investment
of company for doing the production. This department gives the financial approval for
purchasing all the material which is required for the production and doing the
sampling.
WORK FLOW

63

ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENT
Under administrative direction, plans, organizes and directs the companys Finance
and Administration Department; also serves as Treasurer; provides highly
responsible Administrative staff assistance to the General Manager; and performs
other related work as required.

This department is responsible for company-wide finance and related administrative
support services. Areas of program responsibility include, but are not limited to,
accounting, budgeting, financial planning and reporting, debt management, cash
management, purchasing, information systems, liability insurance and customer
service. This class is distinguished from other department management classes by
its overall responsibility for directing financial and administrative services.
This department reports to the General Manager.

TYPICAL DEPARTMENT TASKS
1. Develops, plans and implements goals and objectives for the finance and
administration department, prepares and administers internal policies and
procedures relating to departmental program activities; interprets and explains
applicable rules, laws and regulations to supervisors and others.

2. Directs, oversees and participates in the departmental program work plan; assigns
work activities, finance and administration projects and programs; monitors work
flow; reviews and evaluates work products, methods and procedures; implements
needed work process and automation improvements and methods for improving
customer service.

3. Manages the preparation and maintenance of a variety of financial records and
reports, including those related to the general ledger, accounts payable, accounts
receivable, payroll, job costing, inventories, budgets and fixed assets; ensures the
purchasing of materials, supplies and equipment are conducted in accordance with
company policies and procedures.

4. Oversees preparation and presentation of the annual budget; supervises data
gathering and financial planning work associated with rate setting; prepares rate
analyses.

5. As Treasurer, oversees cash management, investment, and debt management
activities.
64

6. Coordinates departmental activities with other departments and divisions; provides
responsible advice and counsel to the General Manager, and department and
division managers on a variety of financial and administrative issues; oversees the
maintenance of departmental records and files; administers liability claims and
property insurance programs.

7. Manages information technology support services for the company including
installation, maintenance and upgrade of both mainframe and network based
applications pursuant to an information technology master plan; through user groups
and other means, explores opportunities to improve efficiency and productivity
through user friendly information technology enhancements.

8. Conducts financial reviews of company operations and activities and reports
findings and recommendations to the General Manager and Board of Directors;
serves as liaison with external auditors and coordinates their activities on behalf of
the company.

9. Attends Board of Director and Board Committee meetings; prepares and presents
staff reports and agenda items for consideration by the Board; serves as advisor to
the General Manager and Board as to financial planning and administration.

10. Coordinates preparation of the annual budget request for the finance and
administration department; reviews staffing, equipment, and supply needs based
upon recent trends and planned.

65

HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGEMENT

Human Resource Management (HRM, HR) is the management of an organization's
employees. While human resource management is sometimes referred to as a "soft"
management skill, effective practice within an organization requires a strategic focus
to ensure that people resources can facilitate the achievement of organizational
goals. Effective human resource management also contains an element of risk
management for an organization which, as a minimum, ensures legislative
compliance.

Human resources management involves several processes. Together they are
supposed to achieve the above mentioned goal. These processes are usually
performed in the HR department, but some tasks can also be outsourced or
performed by line-managers or other departments. When effectively integrated they
provide significant economic benefit to the company.

Workforce planning
Recruitment
Skills management
Training and development
Personnel administration
Compensation in wage or salary
Time management
Employee engagement activities
Personnel cost planning
Performance measuring system
CSR(Corporate Social Responsibility)




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PROCESS FLOW OF FACTORY HR DEPARTMENT























Training
Compensation and
Benefits
Recruitment and
Selection
Welfare
Exit Formalities
Compliance
Industrial Relations
Public Relation
67

PROCESS FLOW OF HUMAN RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT






















Start
HR Planning
Recruitment and
Selection
Training and
Development
Performance
Managemen System
Compensation and
Benefits
Exit
Legal
Administration
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SOCIAL ACCOUNTABILITY 8000

Being a corporate citizen and a business entity that is evolving through continual
improvement in ethical business, employee welfare and adherence to local and
international laws has been certified SA 8000, by Bureau Veritas Quality
International.

The certification is widely accepted in the Europe & the US as a sign of a corporate
body that has definite ethical business practice. It not only ensures better work
environment, equal pay, grievance handling mechanism, definite disciplinary
procedure, mechanism to check and address sexual harassment and healthy
employee-management relationship at the Premise of manufacturing that is certified
but also takes care of the supply chain, and ensure that starting from raw material
supplier, accessory supplier to shipment of final product, ethical business is
practiced. This is ensured in the form of Supplier Compliance.

SA - 8000 has a definite audit process conducted by BVQI every six months, where
associate interview is done & relevant document is reviewed, which in turn ensures
that all the clauses of the SA-8000 Standard are followed. The following are the
Standards:

CHILD LABOUR
FORCED LABOUR
HEALTH AND SAFETY
FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION
DISCRIMINATION
DISCIPLINARY PRACTICES
REMUNERATION
WORKING HOURS
MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

Social Accountability In charge: A responsible person is appointed as social
accountability in charge to ensure that the requirement of the Clauses of SA-8000 is
met at all times.

Grievance handling in charge: A qualified person is dedicated to addressing the
grievance of the associates and is available during the working hours through the
month.

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Health & Safety In-Charge: A qualified and experienced person is appointed as
Health & Safety In charge to ensure that healthy and safe work environment is
maintained in the factory premise.

The top management, including the CEO of the company actively involves in
ensuring that all the clauses of the SA 8000 are followed strictly and sustained.
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PRE PRODUCTION EXECUTION / R&D

ACTIVITIES OF R&D:
1. Style Review at Proto Stage
2. Failure Mode Effect and Improvement - FMEI
3. Folder checking & Duplication
4. Standard Operating Procedure - SOP
5. Pattern Checking and Grading
6. Style Review Process
7. Blue Print Finalization
8. Size Set Process
9. Internal & External Size Set Offering
10. R & D Spec Generation
11. Final Consumption Chart with Marker (CAD)
12. PP Meeting Report
13. Button Pull Test Report
14. Poly Bag and Carton Box Dimension

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72


73

1. Style Review at Proto Stage
All the Styles are analysed by the RND core team at Proto Stage to analyse the
Style feasibility and also if any Changes are required to make the product
Feasible.

To analyse the difficult operations / higher time consuming operations in a
Particular style we had used the 5 Parameters.
The five parameters are as follows:
Type of seam
Number of plies
Stopping precision
Machine
GSM

2. FAILURE MODE EFFECT IMPROVEMENT (FMEI)
Why the origin of FMEI?
For any garment manufacturing industry, the biggest challenge is to meet the
customer satisfaction with no external failures. Also internal failures are so high
due to high rework and rejection rates. This overall contributes to the Cost of
Poor quality (COPQ). COPQ contributes to 40% of the Cost of manufacturing.
Any garment manufacturing sector spends very less on prevention cost which
has a very large impact of reduction of COPQ.
With the fast changing fashion industry, styles becoming more and more
complex, smaller order quantities, shorter lead times and eventually very high
COPQ, a tool to effectively anticipate any failures in bulk production
became extremely important.
Learning from each failure is both costly and time consuming. Not all the
problems are easy to crack; hence it requires a scientific methodology to solve a
problem.
Hence the FMEI come to the picture.


74

What is FMEI?
Failure: Any product or its specifications not meeting / achieving the desired or
intended results of the customer can be defined as a failure.
Failure Mode this is basically defined as what could go wrong and how it could
go wrong.
Effect Immediate consequence of failure on operation / process.
Improvement Improvement of process.
FMEI is a tool used to identify the failure modes and improve the process.

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FOLDER CHECKING AND DUPLICATION
FOLDER:
Master Style Folder will be released from Marketing team with the below details:
1) Order sheet

2) PP comments


3) Consumption chart and mini-marker with merchant and sampling in
charge signature and seal

4) Approved PP samples- 2 nos


5) Tech pack
Garment construction
Measurement and Comments history with buyer Q.A seal
Art works for embellishments
Bill of materials
Revised final tech pack with PP comments

6) Final measurement chart with merchants signature

7) Trim card
All details should be there at least for one combo.
For Tommy PP approved combo has to be taken for size set. For other buyers
any combo can be taken for size set.
In case of stripe direction of fabric must be mentioned.
Fabric diameter must be given for all the sizes
Layout of repeat must be given for all the sizes in case of stripe width changes
according to the sizes


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8) Fabric
Body fabric
Lining fabric
Collar & cuff fabric
Binding fabric
Appliqu fabric
Tapes

9) Trims
Main Label
Size Label
Wash Care Label
ID Label
Buttons and zippers
Fusing
Mobilon Tape
Embroidery Threads
Sewing Threads, etc.

10) Strike-offs for embellishments:
For printing 2 nos of strike-offs for each colour is required
For embroidery 2 nos of strike-offs for each design is required
11) Buyer strike offs with merchants signature

4. S.O.P STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE
1. S.O.P is the recommended procedures to be followed during every
process involved in the manufacturing of garment.

2. This ensures the required quality in every stage of process.
S.O.P contains the following process details:
Cutting details
Washing details
Printing/embroidery details
Fusing details
Heat transfer label / stud fixing
Sewing details
Finishing details
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5. PATTERN CHECKING AND GRADING:
The pattern verification works are as follows,
The received pattern from the sampling is verified with the approved
measurement chart
The measurement of each pattern checked by size wise
Ensuring the construction of PP sample and the sampling pattern are the same. If
any deviations noticed, inform to sampling and do the necessary changes.
R&D gives the shrinkage%. If the shrinkage % is not within the limit and it needs to
undergo washing process, recommended shrinkage % is added in the pattern.
Software used OPTITEX version 10

6. STYLE REVIEW PROCESS
Once the final PP sample is approved then the approved style operations will be
verified with the Proto stage sample. Based on the final sample necessary
changes will be done.

7. BLUE PRINT FINALISATION
Based on the Style review Format the Blue print will get generated. The blue print
will have the following information:
Operation sequence with Layout
No of operator / Helper required for this style
Cycle time for each and every operations
Operator grade which required to do the operation
Machine type and attachment / folders are mentioned in the blue print to do the
machinery planning and also for the offline machine setting
Pitch time diagram will use to find out the higher cycle time. Production is
depends on the higher cycle time operations only. So its easy to attack the
particular operations to get more productivity and efficiency. Number of burst to
complete the operations as per GSD is mentioned. It will help to make the methods
constant across all the production lines.


78

8. SIZE SET PROCESS

79

Fabric and trims availability is checked to proceed size-set
The consumption required to proceed the size-set is calculated from the
consumption chart based on the no. of pieces required to make. This
consumption includes the supervisor sample also
Then mail is sent to the stores and the materials are collected personally by R&D
department
The collected materials are verified with the trim car
Cut plan is decided based on the priority and style process. Some style includes
embellishment works which needs to be cut in advance for sub sequent processes.
Process route is followed as per SOP
Sewing and finishing is followed as per Style Review Report
Then size-set is offered for internal size set review

9. SIZE SET REVIEW
9.1. INTERNAL REVIEW:
The following points are checked during internal size set review by N.Q.A
Checking of process route followed during size set as per S.O.P and buyer
requirements
The embellishment placement, design and colour is checked
Checking the incorporation of all the PP comments in the size set
After finishing of size set before iron and after iron measurements is taken as per the
buyer approved measurement chart
If it is a garment wash stains and tinting in garment after wash is checked
For Anntaylor, fabric shrinkage report and shade band is required during size set.
Both are prepared in laboratory and it gets approved from buyer Q.A for shade
variations.
Once the size set is approved by N.Q.A, it is sent to BUYER Q.A for approval
If it is not approved, and if the failure reason is due to measurement,
inform the reasons to R&D and insist for pattern alterations and the size set has to
be made again.
9.2 EXTERNAL SIZE SET REVIEW:
The following points are checked during external size set review by buyer Q.A
Checking of all the measurements and construction as per the buyer
Requirements
Checking of all the PP comments incorporated in size set
Apart from this, suggestion of any other buyer requirement

80

10. RND MEASUREMENT CHART
In Tech pack buyer will be giving only a important measurements. In RND will be
adding extra measurement points to ensure the product quality.
This measurement chart contains the star measurement with the identification of *
and tolerance will be 75% buyer spec tolerance.
This will be very useful for the production to monitor in the TLS graphical chart
and if the spec is out of RND tolerance the garment will be considered as a
deviation. So, all the production team will concentrate on the same to avoid in the
further garments. From this we can ensure the spec of the garments is within the
tolerance.

11. PATTERN AND MARKER

11.1 Final Pattern Releasing and Final Consumption Chart (CAD)
Based on the size set review and PP meeting, the pattern has been amend
For pilot run, the amended pattern will be issued
After batch setting, initially 25 garments are produced and the same is
reviewed with NQA and comments also given
Production department issue the pilot comments to R&D
Based on the pilot comments, the pattern is altered if required and it has been
released for bulk

11.2 REWORKING ON CONSUMPTION:
Revised mini marker with final pattern is made by CAD based on pilot comments
and then final process route is decided.
If any consumption changes while revising the pattern after pilot comments, the
details has to be highlighted to merchants, planner and sampling.
Revised mini marker with R&D seal is amend in the style folder. Whenever the
pattern changes it needs to be updated in the style folder.


81

12. PP MEETING
12.1 INTERNAL PP MEETING:
After size set review by Nominated Quality Assurance (N.Q.A)
Following representatives from the respective departments will be present
during the meeting:
Merchandisers
Factory planning
R & D
Q.A
Cutting
Sewing
Finishing
Embroidery
Printing
Outdoor process

The following points will be discussed during meeting:
Process carried out during size set
P.P comments
Overall comments
Critical operations came through size set process
Internal size set comments
Preproduction meeting report has to be preparing at the end of the meeting.


82

12.2 EXTERNAL PP MEETING:
The external pp meeting will be conducted after the approval of size set by the
external N.Q.A
Following representatives from the respective departments will be present during
the meeting:
Buyer Q.A
Merchandisers
Factory planning
R & D
Q.A
Cutting
Sewing
Finishing
Embroidery
Printing
Outdoor process In the meeting, following points will be discussed
Buyer Q.A will explain the buyer requirements
Status of materials like fabric inward, trims will be discussed
Factory pilot offering date will be decided
Top of production requirement (T.O.P)
For AnnTaylor, supervisory sample must be finished before external PP meeting.
During meeting, the production department must bring the mannequin fixed with
sample and cut board having all the parts of garment marked with notches.

13. BUTTON PULL TEST
Mocked swatches are made and test is carried out. In this test the button has to
withstand the required pulling force for a given time.


83

14. POLY BAG AND CARTON DIMENSION
From packaging Instruction the following are decided:
Solid pack or Ratio wise pack
Hanger, size tag details
No of pieces in poly bag
No of pieces in carton
Print information
Garment folding details
Garment is fold as per packaging instructions and poly bag
dimension is decided (length and width)
By stacking the garments in single row or double row the
carton box measurement is obtained
If the row height varies, the filler is needed to fill gap in carton
Material required information is sent to purchase department.
84

FACTORY PLANNING
The planning department has the responsibility of converting the orders booked by the
merchant, to the production team for the easy execution of the order. Based on the TnA
and the availability of the line the PPC team allocates the order on the production floor
as which process has to be done at what time. The production is done in the section
system with front, sleeve, collar, cuff & back as the preparatory section and one
assembly section. The operators are dedicated to the each operation as per the
capacity planning and delivery date of the order.

Tech Pack and style details from

Work flow














Giving Feedback to merchandiser
about sample feasibility
Daily Production report from the
each department
SMV values for the style from IE
department
Discusion with production
department for the process
Style study for cutting, sewing &
finishing or any out-house activity

Tech Pack and style details from
the merchant and T n A
85

DETAILED TERMS FOR PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL:

Receiving Order Clarity Detail from Merchant:
The Planning receives the details of the order. Based on the information available,
the order feasibility is worked out.

SMV Details from IE:
The SMV analysis of the sewing styles is done by the IE department. The target
for the styles is set up for each operation at the specific efficiency.

Order Clarity Details to Floor:
The order clarity details i.e. the order quantity, delivery dates and the production
Details are passed on to the Floor by the Planning section.

Daily Order Status Report
Each department has to submit the daily order status report to the department.
The measures required to be taken if the order is not going on as expected can
Only come when the daily reports are available.
86

FACTORY IED
PROCESS FLOW OF IED





















Pre-production
activities
Production
department
Training new
trainees
Recruiting
workers
Preparing operation
bulletin
Calculate
accessories
consumption
Fixing grade of
operators
Hourly production tracking
Reducing bottleneck
operations by proper line
balancing
Capacity study
Efficiency calculations
Start
End
87

The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives
the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption
criteria, operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a
vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they
also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the
production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and
they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning
department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or no.
The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the
given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories
consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department
for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects
and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of
manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.
The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which
includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment
and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be
carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and
approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and
accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the
criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the
inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin
will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an
hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also
helps in timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the
target to each operator based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish
their piece of work on time and also maintain the quality of their work.
After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate
the efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as
88

the single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular
batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed
output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total
production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if
the company was working that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the
reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc.,
all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operators performance which would have been observed for a specified
period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,


The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,
20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
55% - Semi skilled
This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.
Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operators skill and his
efficiency, working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training
for about 45 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and
grasping capacity a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the
Skill type Grade
A,A++ Highly skilled
B-,B,B+ Skilled
C,C+ Semi skilled
89

operator/new employee knows or has a previous work experience in a garment industry
then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have done in the previous
factory and then he/she is just given an hours test to know his skills and then grade is
been allocated.
Every day the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a
production review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line
and the operation carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not
giving the estimated efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan
and review it and later follow the right one.
90

BITS CUTTING
PROCESS FLOW OF BIT CUTTING PROCESS





















Receiving the folder
Mini-marker Verification
Dia verification of
received fabric
Weekly Bit cutting plan
IOM for collecting
sample fabric
Sample Bit Cutting
GSM/Shrinkage/Shade
Verification
Lot wise fabric collection
Fabric storage as per
table plan
Bitting as per the
required length
Visual check up
Audit
Dia/GSM/Visual
defects
Physical check up
lab
shrinkage/colour
fasteners/spirality -
direct cut
Lay records
Lot wise
reconciliation of bit
cutting
Tagging of bits/bundling
Consumption
workings
Approval
Approvals from fabric sourcing
Shade approval for first
lot - Merchant
Before/after wash-GSM
Verification of bit weight
Bit cutting for trims
End bits
Generation
Clearance of
End Bits
O/L based on the length
O/L collars and cuffs
Shrinkage percentage
Approvals from
buying office
Approvals from
fabric sourcing
IOM for collecting Bulk
Fabric
Fabric storage
based on table plan
91






















Bit minusing
Counting of Bits
Bits received from washing
Bit washing
Sending bits for washing
Bit segregation
Bits storage as per Table Plan for
cutting
Counting of bits
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PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
Hear the production is doing by CUT TO PACK process all the cutting, sewing and
packing is on one line itself. Like that total 127 lines is therein different six floors and in
one line 32 machine are there and for that line one separate cutting and finishing table
is there
CUTTING
Cutting production consist of all the process activities involved in reducing the bulk
material used in apparel in to the component parts making up the apparel.
The cutting room is a combined section for spreading, cutting and ticketing/ bundling.
This is just near to the lifts and stairs through which fabric rolls are carried for cutting on
the floor. There is one spreading table of 20feet length with one spreading machine.
The lay is cut by straight knife on the same table and the blocks are transferred to table
and then to band knife for final cutting and then to numbering table. There is for fusing
spot fusing and machine fusing.

BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given
amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the
following details:
Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other
trims averages.
Measurement sheet
Design worksheet of the garment
Purchase order
Fabric requisition sheet
CAD mini marker
Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colours in which the patterns
are to be cut.






93

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS
Solid cutting
Spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a
manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components
acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the
cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during
cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on
this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.

The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading
machine. While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine
gives faster and more accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality
of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height
depends upon the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the machine.

Cutting
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the
marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches
are also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy,
band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the
fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they
are cut.
Spread

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces
Block cutting
Stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to requirements
of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like Stripes and checks are
spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time,
matching the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this
spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room
itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and
94

placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually
marked on the top with marking chalk and using the hard paper patterns. The plies in
the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough cutting of the fabric following
the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again checked for alignment
and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the patterns.
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved
is also more due to cutting in two stages.
Spread

Match

Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut patterns

Match

Final precise shaping of patterns

Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from
two different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there
are bolt-to-bolt variations in the colour shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed.
Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision,
and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the
ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle
number and piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the
garment in the assembly line from start to end.


95

Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line,
inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade
variations etc. that cannot are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are
removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total
quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal
number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the
same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will
be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled
using ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant.
Each bundle will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting
department issues the amount required by the production department when asked for.

Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and
follow up these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for
embroidery, which are re-cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the
panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the
embroidery.

Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept
between two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By
means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and
for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the
pieces are removed and re bundled.

96


Length of spreading table 20 feet
Width of spreading table 6 feet(72)
Height of spreading table 3 feet(36)
Table top type Plain, card board type
Spreading mode face one way, nap one
way
No of table 127




97

WORK FLOW







no Yes







no Yes


Acquire fabric from
fabric store
Cut sample to check
Require
Checking
Cut for initial size set
Assemble and check
Require
changes
Issue job order
Bulk cutting
Sorting
Cut plan
Bundling
Issue to sewing
Send to CAD for
Change
Receive changed
pattern from CAD
98

SEWING
Sewing has always been the most dominant of all the process in the garment industry.
Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the
achievement of satisfactory construction of seams and permutation and combinations
during line balancing for getting the maximum output without compromising with the
quality standards.

Sewing section in the unit consists of six floors which accommodate about 5000
machines and distributed into 127 lines. Each line has a supervisor monitoring the
production and trying to balance the line himself.

The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where
they have to produce about 150 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40
55 days.


PROCESS FLOW FOR BULK PRODUCTION




















Size Set Approval
Pilot Run
Loading of garment for
Bulk Production
Inline Inspection
Final Inspection
Dispatch to Finishing
99

The production floor will receive the details like,
the style or the garment,
number of operators required,
the batch for which the style has to be installed,
any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
target for each day
Breakup of the production quantity.

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and
sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories
that are required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-
setting for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be
produced bulk, this teaching session will go on for about 3 4 days maximum. After this
batch setting process the production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment
i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increases
from 50 100 150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowly and precisely
about the processes that has to be carried out for the particular style.
Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are
prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of
the parts is done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the
measurements are checked and sent.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
In-process checking.
Endline checking. Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.

The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the
checking is done.

The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each
operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 20 pieces
in each bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next
operator to do the next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of
different garments. The movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line
is generally zig zag motion which is followed. The checking person will be present at a
position where the garment is partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in
100

the line and sometimes more than three and this depends on the buyer as well as the
number of components present in the garment.

The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire
batch which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach
them the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being
allocated to them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has
to get him/her their material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their
best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the
management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operators skill level
whenever asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can
be a better person to fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a
friendly approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create
any trouble for the factory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a
particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them
about the skills of the operators.

101

PROCESS FLOW OF SEWING

Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from cutting
End line checking & AQL audit
Assembly
Sewing process begins
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Measurement checking
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out
End
In-Line checking
Washing
102

WORKING OF A SEWING ROOM

ISSUE OF THE CUT PARTS
The cut parts are dispatched to the sewing section and stored in the warehouse. Then it
is bundled and fed into the sewing line. Every bundle of cut parts is accompanied with a
job card.

FEEDING TO THE LINE
The bundles are fed into the lines .Each bundle during our studies carried 20 pieces.

INLINE INSPECTION
After every critical operation an inline inspection personal is placed to keep a track of
quality of the pieces manufactured. This checking is placed before the final assembling
of the garment because alterations are difficult and sometimes even impossible after the
completion of the garment. The checking is done for stitching quality, seams, fabric,
shades etc.

Pieces not up to the mark are sending for rework/alteration, the rate being 10-12%. The
same operator has to mend the fault in manufacturing, and is supposed to complete all
the alterations before ending is/her shift for the day.

FINAL INSPECTION
Final inspection consists of thread cutting, shade variation checks, check for faults in
manufacturing fabric faults etc. The rejected parts are considered as seconds and were,
quite obviously not added to the shipment lot. The rate of rejection was 1-2%.

SUPERVISORS
Line supervisors or in-charge has a critical role in function of his line. They continuously
monitor the operators.

103

LIST OF MACHINES
Sl no. Machine
1. S/N JUKI 5530
2. S/N JUKI 8300
3. S/N JUKI 8500
4. S/N JUKI DLM 5200
5. S/N JUKI UBT- 8700-7
6. S/N JUKI UBT-5550
7. S/N BROTHER-DB- 2B101
8. S/N HIGHLID-GL-128
9. S/N HIGHLID-GL-1088
10. S/N SINSTER-UBT-250
11. S/N BROTHER-6200 UBT
12. D/N JUKI MH -380
13. D/N JUKI LH- 3168
14. O/L PEGASUS-M-852-13-4

TH
15. O/L PEGASUS-M-832-355-6

TH
16. O/L PEGASUS-M-752-13-4
TH

17. FLATLOCK-PEGASUS-W-1562-02-HB
18. FLATLOCK-PEGASUS-W-1562-01-J
19. FLATLOCK-PEGASUS-W-1562-0-HB
20. FLATLOCK-PEGASUS-W-664-35-BC
21. FLATLOCK- KANSAI WX-880-3C-LW-UTC
22. FLATLOCK KANSAI-1103
23. NEEDLE DETECTOR-HM-730-9
24. RIB CUTTER-PEGASUS-LU-922
104

25. HEAT TRANSFER CF-2003
26. FUSING M/C- FIBLON-HM-450
27. FUSING M/C HISHIMA-900-LCS
28. BUTTON ATTACH-JUKI-LK-1903-ASS
29. BUTTON HOLE-JUKI-LBH-781
30. BUTTON HOLE-BROTHER-HE-800
31. BARTACK JUKI LK-1900-ASS
32. SNAP BUTTON- JK -808 GULD-STAR

FINISHING AND PACKAING
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it
plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department
includes majorly of the following steps,

TRIMMING:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.

INSPECTION:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.

SEMI PRESSING:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.

PRESSING:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.

105

TAGGING SECTION:
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the
garments are folded according to the buyers specification and also they are either
folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the
buyers specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in
are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.

PACKING:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments they are as follows,
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design
will be specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain
poly bag packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria)
is arranged in the carton box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the
carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in
different ways which is as follows,

SOLID PACKING:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single colour and
same size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will be put in
one carton box.

RATIO PACKING:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different sizes
according to the ratio.
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.

106


MIXED PACKING:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of same size or
garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer
sends the buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC
arrives he will check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments
has to be accepted or rejected.
107

FINISHING AND PACKAGING PROCESS OVERVIEW


Garments from sewing
batch Colour wise, Size
wise and in Half Dead man
fold
Additional process
Dyeing/
Washing?
In case the
Buyer specifies?
Count and Bundle the garments
Send to ware house
Send for washing Send for Dyeing
Pre-pressing
Measurement
check
Receive counted and
bundled pieces from
warehouse
Finishing checkpoint
Pressing and Pressing
Measurement check
Folding
Tagging
A
Measurement
Sheet
Dispatch
Person
Dispatch
Person
Finishing
Checker
Measurement
Checker
Pressing
Operator
Tagger Folding
Operator
Tagger
Folding
Operator
Store
Issue Slip
NO
NO
YES
YES
108



A
Size sticker/ Hanger / Size
sticker applying
PO wise and Size Wise
carton arrangement
EDI Sticker placement
Polybag Packing
Product safety Audit (Needle
Detector Machine)
Corrective action
Rejection
Packing
Solid Ratio
Random Audit
Packing in cartons
If Needle
detected?
B
YES
NO
Packing list
109



B
100 % Carton Audit w.r.t
DC/PO and EDI sticker
Pre Final Audit (as per
AQL)
Final Audit
Re-packing of the audited
pieces
Final Arrangement of
Cartons PO wise and
style wise
Monitor the No. of
Carton of that PO
Truck Out


DC/PO EDI
sticker Carton
Audit Report
Re pack Audit
Report
Packing Auditor
Buyer QA
Packer
Operator
NQA
Packing Auditor and Security
110

MAINTENANCE

MAINTENANCE PROCESS FLOW



























IE department sets the OB
and list of attachments.
Maintenance department looks for the availability of the work aid, attachments and the
machinery requirement in-house or otherwise order them to the supplier
Regularly keeps an update on the needle breaks and their causes so that it can be rectified
in the near future
Keep the machines in running
condition
Keeps a record of all the attachments used for the particular style for future reference in
case the style repeats
111

ROLES OF THE MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

PROVIDES
The necessary machines, instruments and appliances to carry out the manufacturing.

FACILITATE
The department with necessary work aids and environment.

SERVE
The employs with necessary needs.

MAINTAIN
The maintenance department is responsible not only for the maintenance of the
machines but it is also responsible for providing and maintaining the facilities for the
production activities e.g. illumination, air circulation, work place engineering,
compressed air etc.

The conditions of machines & working atmosphere in the department is mainly
dependent on the care taken and working in habits of the operators and all other floor
employees.

TYPES OF MAINTENANCES
Breakdown Maintenance
Corrective Maintenance
Preventive Maintenance
Scheduled Maintenance


a) BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE: - When the machine appliance stops completely &
is not in condition to be operated. This is carried out as and when the problems are
highlighted by concerned operators in the shop floor.

b) CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE: - When the maintenance is carried out for the
correction of the problem served when the machine is running.


112

c) PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE: - The basic objective of this checking is to take
precaution breakdowns which are caused by certain well defined parameters in
machine / process. This type of maintenance is carried out when a problem is predicted
before it can cause a trouble. It thus prevents the trouble.

d )SCHEDULE MAINENANCE - In this stage a certain checking schedule is framed
which would include parameters to be checked, frequency of checking and next due
date for rechecking. This type of maintenance is carried out on the parts of the
machine/appliances to avoid the problems which otherwise would normally occur. Thus,
it is another form of the preventive maintenance

WORKING ENVIRONMENT
The maintenance Department is also required to provide clean and healthy working
environment. They have to provide the illumination level, air circulation, compressed air
etc to the each department.

WORK RELATED SAFETY MANAGEMENT
With the passage of time and safety management has also got importance, especially
with buyers using it for vendor evaluation. The maintenance department is responsible
for the work related safety of the employees e.g. proper machine covers, indications
and instructions in danger zone on machine and in the department.

In company, machine oil is changed once in 3-4 months and machine is cleaned on
weekly basis. The oil level in every machine is checked once in every week. In
maintenance room, each equipments, attachments, oils, nuts, bolts, needles, feed dog,
presser foot etc are stored in a proper way by listing each box.
113

FABRIC STORE
Fabric Store maintains the fabric coming from the manufacturing facility at Tirpur as well
the other suppliers. It enters the data regarding the inward and outward movement of
the fabric in the specified quantity, both to and from the departments.
It stores the fabric in such a way so as to make the identification of the fabric rolls easy
and the person issuing the rolls does not waste time searching for them. They also
receive the unused fabric not required any further from the production floor. Their
responsibility is to maintain the fabric till a suitable time, because the same fabric can
be used to create samples for the buyers in case the fabric meets the required quality.
As soon as the fabrics are received by the stores, each roll is checked for width and
length is mentioned in the reports. In case of large variance between the mentioned
width and the observed width, the supplier is informed.
PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE














H/O/Supplier/Processor
Logistics
Stores
Fabric audit
Storage racks
Issue to H/O Fabric export Issue to
production
Issue to
processor
Return to
supplier
Direct Indirect
114

Below is the flow of work in the fabric store:- Fabric Recieving
Fabric receving in the store
Fabric deliver schedule from merchandiser
Fabric In-house
Fabric Un-loading
variance in qty report(if applicable)
Width checking report
Inspection sorting report
Goods Recieve note to merchandiser
Rolls Alloted with roll card and alloted to racks with bin cards

Swatches
Planning
Merchandiser
50 cm across width for csv and shrinkage(10%)
1" x 1" from each roll for shade matching

Inspection
Fabric Inspection
Centre to Selvedge Variation
Fusing Shrinkage & Bonding Strength
Heat Shrinkage Shade Batching for the whole lot
Stocking of inspection rolls to the alloted racks

Fabric issue
Fabric Requisition Slip from cutting
Fabric Issue
Rements recieved from cutting with OCR
Stocking of remenents


115

Tracking method followed in the stores:-
Currently the system being followed is that of using a BIN CARD. All the details
mentioned in the Bin Card are filled up in the card and the card is stuck on each roll of
fabric. This is in the form of a hard paper sheet pre printed with all the parameters. Each
roll can be distinctly identified by having a look at the Bin Card. Whenever any person is
sent to issue a roll, he just has to read the basic details mentioned on the card. The
fabric is stacked in the racks according to buyer.
e store:-
Records maintained in the stores
1. Packing List from the supplier:- This Report consist of the fabric received
details with the invoice quantity, colour details, etc
2. Goods Received note copy: - This is made by the fabric store in charge and
sent to the merchandiser on the receipt of the fabric and one copy keeps with
him.
3. Width Inspection Report: - On the receipt of fabric with of each roll is checked
and a report id maintained.
4. Stock Report: - This report is maintained as a soft copy for the details of the
stock present in the fabric store and updated time to time.
5. Fabric Inspection Report: - This Report is maintained in the stores for the
inspection of the fabric.
6. Fusing Shrinkage Report: - This report is maintained for the Fusing shrinkage
of the fusing received.
7. Width Checking Report:- This report is maintained for the width checking of the
fabric received.
8. Inspection Sorting Report: - The rolls which are to be inspected for the whole
lot are sorted and its details are maintained in this report.
9. Heat Shrinkage Report:-This report is maintained for the heat shrinkage of the
fabric received.
10. CSV Report: - Centre to selvedge inspection is done and maintained in this
report.
11. Shade Card: - This is made for the shade batching of the lot.
12. Consolidated Inspection Report Copy: - This is the consolidated report for on
order which is made and send to different departments and one copy is
maintained by store.


116

FABRIC AUDITING

The main objectives of this department are:

Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.
Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.

Inspection is done on the following grounds:

100% shade segregation is done.
100% width segregation is done.
15% fabric inspection is done for defects.
10 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy
weight fabrics.
The fabric is checked in full width form only.
The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or
not.

SHADE SEGREGATION

The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:
The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report.
Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot /
colour are cut for lab tests if any.
meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade
segregation is done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or
group and declare shades. Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are
prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is matched.
In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also.
While doing shade segregation, colour matching done by using paramount colour
matching cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA
light sources.
The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers,
sourcing departments, cutting departments for approval and references.
All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.





117

POINTS/100
SQ. YARDS
THAN CLASSIFICATION
ACCEPTED BELOW
40 POINTS
REJECTED ABOVE 40
POINTS
FABRIC INSPECTION
In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All
fabrics are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned
based on the standard fault size for every type of fault and coloured stickers are then
put for the identification of serious defects in the subsequent process.
Fault description under the 4 point inspection system:

LEVEL POINT INDICATION
0-3 inches 1 Yellow
3-6 inches 2 Green
6-9 inches 3 Navy
Over 9 inches 4 Red

Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:
30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.
40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.

For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq.
yards is calculated as:
Example:-
PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yards
FAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards

Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is
recorded which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.
The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length
declared by supplier.
For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality
standard reference randomly.
Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every
consignment order for shrinkage test.
The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).
The GIR reports have following categories:



118

There is a space in the bottom for Remarks; where whether the roll is acceptable or
rejected is specified.
When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 point system, the defects are marked
with different coloured stickers for different types of defects as:
Red Sticker Weaving Defect
Blue Sticker Processing Defect
Green Sticker Other Defects
Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.
The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the
cuttings are kept for reference.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

The width is checked and average width is mentioned.
The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned.
The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable.
Centre to selvedge colour variation is not acceptable.
For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:

WIDTH LEVEL
Up to 44 inches 1 acceptable
45 to 60 inches 1.5 acceptable
60 to 72 inches 2 acceptable

After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is
put on the respective roll. It contains following information:


119

Tag used:



This sticker is of green colour for the pass fabrics and magenta for the rejected
fabric rolls.

MACHINE DETAILS: RAMSONS CHECK MATE

Type R 501
Power input 1 , 220 v, 50 Hz
Power output 3 , 220 v, 50 Hz
Gear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.
Power consumption 0,75 kw


I-Bangalore
Pass fabric
Bale no.- Pc no.-
Fabric - Qty-
Colour- Width-
No. of points- Date-
By- Shade-
Face side-
120

Receive fabrics
Start
Conduct shrinkage
test on minimum 2
bits/bale or minimum
10 bits of
consignment
Forward one meter
of each consignment
for lab test
Verify whether quantity
received match with
quantity ordered
Inform to stores and prepare
goods received note (in case
of imported fabric)
Inspection based on
four points system.
Match bulk with
approved dye lot, width
of fabric etc.
Name shade lot as ABC
Send to merchant for
buyers approval
If approved
Forward to
cutting dept.
End
Reject lot
If No
If No
If No
If Yes
If Yes
If Yes
PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC



























121

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES STORE

The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of
documents i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are
done they are done according to the documents that have been received from the
merchants and also the department also makes the document for anything they carry
out within their roof.

The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants
would have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As
soon as the accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will
receive that particular material they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be
receiving that material and this is termed as PRE GRN.

Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned
person verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which
they would have received from the merchant as already stated.

After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they
carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of
the buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types
of goods received.

122

AQL quantity chart:
Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept
less than 151 8 0
151-280 20 0
281-500 32 1
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 5
35001-150000 200 7
150001-5000000 315 10
500000-above 500 14

After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims done
based on the nature of the item.

Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against
the documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry.
The bills whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the
payments and to fulfil other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing
department in order to inform them about the materials in-housed.

After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
Sub contracting: In this method they prepare the work order and also the
delivery challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims
along with the document for processing.
Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has
been approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the
trims ready to issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by
security against DC as already mentioned.
123

Start
Accept & receive materials against documents
Prepare PRE GRN
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is
forwarded to accounts for payment
SUB-
CONTRACTI
NG
PRODUCTIO
N ISSUES
Prepare work order
Prepare delivery challan
Forward trims along with
documents for
processing
Identify trims which have been
approved by merchants
Prepare delivery challan & keep
trims ready to issue to the factories
Materials to be issued after
inspection by security against DC
Material
outward
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES STORE PROCESS FLOW



























124

PRINTING DEPARTMENT

PROCESS FLOW OF PRINTING















yes no




Receiving sample from
Merchant
Preparation of Design
Preparation of Tracing Films
Selection of frames
Selection of mesh based on
designs
Stretching of frames
Water-wash to remove the dirt/ dust in the frames
Applying photo screen emulsion over the screen frames
Drying at dark and cool place to avoid evaporation
Exposing of screens
Water wash
Applying Bichromate water over the frame
Print strike Ups for desired colour and size
Sampling
Salesman sample
Approvals from
buying office
Redesign based on comments
received
Approvals from
merchant
Coating of solutions
Drying using Natural exposing fan
Impression of film coming over the frame
Drying using natural air
Colour standards/
Background colour
details from merchant
Colour combination
Consumption
Grading, size and
Quality details
Measurement
125




yes



PP sample
Size set sample
Machine setting
Bulk production
Curing
Approved sample for
Print Strike ups
Heat transfer Receiving cut parts panel
printing
Receiving of garments
printing
Re Size set
Printing Pattern from PPE
Approvals from buyer
Fusing
126

EMBROIDERY
The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second
largest embroidery unit in Asia.

The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from the
merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in
company, the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will
also get a sample of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and
they will use this as their reference sample / piece.

As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be
done and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the
design and check for the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the
style of the stitch involved for the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting
point of the design on the garment while performing the operation etc., all these things
are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format and give to the merchandiser and
after an approval from them they start the further operation .

After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that
has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 7 garments and
it is something done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have
been generated then they conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.

Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be
produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the
embroidery action on the garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment
has been sewn and the other case is after the garment panels has been cut and before
sewing them into a complete garment.

127

The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting
department and then they start their embroidery process.

After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts
received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every
machine there are operators for this process.

The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the
maximum noise that is been produced by the machines.



128

WORK FLOW

Start
Receive designs from the merchant
Scan and punch design
Strike- off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the styles
Start bulk production
Trimming & checking
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
129

PROCESS FLOW OF EMBROIDERY






















Receiving of sketch Art
work design /CD/Strike
ups / Sample from
Merchant
Design analysis
Preparation of design
Wilcom Software
Embroidery analysis for
sampling
Design installation in the
embroidery machine
Sample preparation
Trim work
Verification of sample and
handing over to sampling
department
Proto sample
Fit sample
PP sample
LASER appliqu
cutting
Machine setting
Receiving design -
Wilcom
Gumming done at
outhouse
Receiving of appliqu
Fusing
Appliqu fabric/twill
fabric/canvas
Appliqu embroidery
Colour
standards/backing
materials/threads/cut
panels details from
merchant
Comment received
from sampling/buyer
Removal of backing material/threads
Knowledge sharing
with the operator
Direct laying or without frame
embroidery- without using clamp
Frame embroidery- using clamp
Pattern for embroidery
placement from sampling
Technical comments
Colour / size
Measurement
Type of embroidery
Re-work
Stop coats for embroidery
Number of thread colours
Placement for trimming
Verification for
marking placement
Machine setting
130













No
Yes







Size set sample
Bulk production
End line checking
Receiving of cut panels
from cutting sections
Marking of cut panels for
embroidery placement
Framing
Machine setting
Sample of two pieces
Bulk production
Inline check to achieve
the desired quality
Trimming work removal
of packing material / extra
thread
Manual embroidery
Alteration work
Collection of threads/
bobbin threads /
backing material from
stores
Received pattern /
sample/ folder from
PPE
Grading based on
design/ buyer
Dispatch to cutting section
Approval from PPE
Loading of frames
Setting of frames
Bobbin changes
Tension adjustment
Setting of frame board
Allocation of machines
based o design / no of
stitches/ order
quantity/ position
Comments received
from buyer
Re-work
Plan from PPC
Resize set
131

WASHING DEPARTMENT
Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the
washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular
style according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel
and the texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.

The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will
be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the
factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the
washing department to match the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with
respect to the feel and the texture, for this the merchandiser himself/herself comes to
the washing department in case of samples.

The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,
Type of the material.
The texture that is under demand.
The feel and look of the garment under demand.
Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).
Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
Types of threads used for in sewing.
Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.
The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
The sequence of the processes.
Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.
Duration of the treatment.

132


After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start
treating the garments in the desired sequence.

At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise,
suppose the garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the
similar manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.

After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyers specifications. In this
washing there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing

First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In
the dry processing there are four different types they are,
After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing.
Wet processing involves mainly two types, they are

1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and
pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and
sometimes the usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands
and requirements.
2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken
to the washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved
and they are classified as follows,
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
Softener wash
Desize wash
Enzyme wash
Stone enzyme wash
Rubber ball wash

133

Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at
such situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing
stage or else the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the
garments are sent to the dry processing and then from there to the wet processing
where it is first sent to the dyeing and then to the washing process.

After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in
which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending
on the tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the
previous stages will be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum
pressure that has to be used for that particular style / garment.

Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve
any organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected
according to the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.

Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing
section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims
after the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to
finish the left over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing
department.

The washing department in this unit (Unit 12) is the centralized one for the units
located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the
garments from different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to
keep in track of the garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to
be carried out for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for the process to
be finished for the garments according to the types of the washes prescribed for them,
etc., hence this department maintains a record in which they fill in the details of the
garment style number, PO number, item number, quantity received and the day and
date of recieval. The department maintains these details both in the soft as well as in
134

the hard copy format. The department will enter the details in the ERP. Whenever the
washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot from the different units then the
communication is mainly through the e-mails and also phone calls.

135

PROCESS FLOW CHART OF WASHING




NOT OK
OK






OK












Start
Receipt of garments/panels
with respect to DC
Accounting and
segregation
Washing
Hydro extractor
Tumble drier
Quality checking
Accounting and dispatch to
respective units/merchants
If any discrepancy inform
to concerned unit
Samples received
from merchants
136

LABORATORY
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there
are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available
in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send
such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories
which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchants approval.
The laboratory has three main sections, which are mentioned as follows:-
Conditioning Room: In this room the fabric swatches are kept for four hours before
and after the testing. The temperature of this room is kept at 217C and relative
humidity 652. A conditioning rack is there, where the fabric samples are kept for
conditioning. The minimum dimension for the room should be 2m x 2.5m. The
apparatus that are kept in this room are thermograph chart recorder, crock meter and
strength tester.
Wet Wash Lab: Here the fabric samples are washed for checking colour fastness,
shrinkage and appearance. The ATC buyers ask for 3 washes for appearance and
shrinkage while the ISO buyers ask for 1 wash for shrinkage and 5 washes for
appearance. Each buyer has their own brand of washing machine. The wet wash lab is
equipped with the following machines: F/B Drier, Whirlpool Drier, Electrolux Drier, IFB
Washing Machine, and Whirlpool Washing Machine. Both top and front loading washing
machines are there.
Physical Testing Lab: The physical test lab is equipped with water heater, perspiration
tester, analytical lab, pH meter, water bath, hot air oven and weight balance.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
The lab also contains a dark room, where the shades of samples are checked against
various lights.
Fabric Sourcing department:
The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered
later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as
soon as it receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics
which they require for the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after
they receive the small amount then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that
are to be carried out for that particular fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing
department generally asks for are as follows.

137

Count
Colour fastness to washing
Colour fastness to crocking
Colour fastness to perspiration
Colour fastness to steaming
Colour fastness to saliva (for baby products)
Colour fastness to pH
Shrinkage after washing
Fabric strength
Fabric weight
Accessory Stores:
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the
sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to
be carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the
laboratory. The lists of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as
follows,

Coloured laces and tapes are tested for colour fastness
Colour fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability and colour fastness

Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general
tests which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as
lab dips. The garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has
to be carried out as per the buyer specifications.

After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the
garment fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried
out if the buyer specifies.

Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally
send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of
the particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type,
colour and other material related details which will help the lab technicians while
carrying out the tests.

The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
Types of tests.
Urgency of the task.
Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
Number of samples that has to be tested.
138


139








SECTION- B
PROJECT
Kanban Practices Improvement through Super Market
concept and Label Procedure

140

INTRODUCTION
In recent years, Kanban has become an essential tool for sustaining the Lean
Manufacturing. To improve the operation condition and business many companies
are adapting to Kanban system. And many companies have successfully
implemented Kanban with the help of their Lean teams.
Kanban was introduced in Shahi Exports Private Limited in the fall 2011. However
its been only six months but company is receiving the outcome with few
obstructions. During this time, the Kanban philosophy has been updated to the
second version. There are many obstacles need to conquer which will increase the
performance of the company. To find that obstacles this project is introduced. This
Kanban Practices Improvement through Super Market concept and Label
Procedure implementing stage provides an open, dynamic, inspired environment to
process this project.
This project will attempt to cover all the areas of Kanban in Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
The project is about what Kanban is and how it works.

141

Objectives
To find out the problems and provide solutions in practices while
implementing Kanban too.
To design and implementation of visual board.
To plan the lay-out of super market on production floor.
To implement the Super Market concept on production floor.
Expected outcomes
As a project, this project is expected to assist the Kanban practices to complete its
tasks and inspire thinking for continuous improvement.
According to the objective part, some physical outcomes are also expected to be
drawn:
Reported theoretical reflection according to Kanban philosophy
Documented sustainability of Kanban through each executives perception
Designing a visual board will help to know the production and Kanban
performance
Reported analysis and evaluation of Kanban implementation

142







LITERATURE REVIEW
143

Lean Manufacturing
Lean manufacturing philosophy which shortens the time line between the
customers orders and the shipment by eliminating the waste.



It is derived from the Toyota Production System (TPS). Lean production is aimed at
the elimination of waste in every area of production including customer relations,
product design, supplier networks and factory management. Lean means
creating more value for customers with fewer resources. A Lean organization
understands customer value and focuses its key processes to continuously
increase it. Its goal is to incorporate less human efforts, less inventory, less time to
develop products and less space to become highly responsive to customer
demand while producing superior quality products in the most efficient and
economical manner possible.


144

To achieve this, Lean thinking changes the focus of management from optimizing
separate technologies, assets, and vertical departments to optimizing the flow
of products through entire value streams that flow horizontally across
technologies, assets, and departments to customers. Lean touches the following
aspects of an organization.


145

Goals of Lean Manufacturing

Lean Manufacturing Concepts
There are eight main principles of lean manufacturing:
Value Specification
Value stream
Waste
Equipment reliability
Continuous flow
Pull production
Continuous improvement
People involvement



Value
Value
Stream
Waste
Equipment
Reliability
Continous
Flow
Pull
Production
Continuous
Improvement
People
Involvement
Highest
Quality
Lowest
Cost
Shortest
Lead Time
Lean
Manufacturing
Concepts

146

Value Specification
The significant starting position for lean philosophy is value. It is anticipated to
specify value from the perspective of the end customer. It is only meaningful
when products meet the customers needs at a specific price and specific time.
A value is created by the producer. However it is hard for producers to precisely
define the values. In order to come over the difficulties and specify value,
producers should firstly challenge traditional definitions of value. It means that
producers should not just simply descend on lower cost, increased product
variety and instant delivery. It is expected more to see what is really needed. The
second thing producers need to do is to define value in terms of the whole product.
The whole supply chain thinking should be paid enough attention by each
single producer. Then it requires producers to talk with its customers in a
new ways to rethink value. The final element in value definition is to determine a
target cost. To determine a target cost is based on the amount of resources and
effort required to make a product of given specification and capabilities if all the
currently visible waste (MUDA) were removed from the process. There are
eight typical non-value-adding wastes described by TPS.
Types of Waste
Overproduction
Inventory
Transportation
Motion (Operations)
Processing
Defects / Quality
Waiting
Peoples Skills
147


148

1. OverProduction
Producing more than what is sold or produce before it is required is over production.
It is visible as storage of material. A product that cannot be sold or has to be
dumped at a reduced price becomes a burden and can be considered as waste.
Producing product before the customer needs makes the parts / products to be
stored and ties up money in inventory.
Causes for Over Production
Misuse of automation
Justincase logic
Long process setup
Unlevelled scheduling
Unbalanced work load
Redundant inspections
2. Inventory
This is one of the most frequent types of waste and one of the most expensive to
have. It represents the material between operations due to large lot production or
processes with long cycle times.
Causes of Excess Inventory
Compensating for inefficiencies and unexpected problems
Product complexity
Unlevelled scheduling
Poor market forecast
Unbalanced workload
Unreliable shipments by suppliers
3. Transportation
Handling material extra or unnecessarily either to production area or within
production areas is transportation waste. Transportation waste does not add any
value to the product instead it increases the time and energy spent. The right
strategy is to minimize or eliminate this waste rather than improving the
transportation.
Causes of Transportation Waste
Poor plant layout
Poor understanding of the process flow for production
Large batch sizes, long lead times, and large storage areas
4. Defects
Occurrence of defects that arise because of manufacturing problems demands
correction or rework which is a huge amount of waste. It requires additional
resources and time to correct defects before shipping or replace parts that are
scrapped due to defects. These defects can be eliminated by error proofing i.e.,
designing the process in such a way that the product is produced one way, which is
the correct way, and every time.


149

Causes of Defects
Little or no process control
Poor quality standards or inconsistent quality standards
Lack of or little planned equipment preventive maintenance
Inadequate education/training/work instructions
Product design (Process cannot produce to quality)
5. Motion
Any body movement (motion) that does not add value comes under this type of
category. Few of the examples that come under this category are looking for tools,
walking many steps to get parts, more movements than necessary to perform an
operation. Unnecessary or awkward operator motions put undue stress on the body
and cause waste. Improvement in this area will result in increase in productivity,
reduced injury and decrease in workmens compensation claims.
Causes of Motion Waste
Poor people/mach ineffectiveness
Inconsistent work methods
Failure to take ergonomic issues into consideration
Poor facility or cell layout
Poor workplace organization and housekeeping

150

6. Extra processing
Doing more processing steps than the customer really requires is unnecessary.
Indistinct and unclear customer requirements cause the manufacturer to add
unnecessary processes, which add cost to the product. Extra processing waste can
be minimized by asking questions like why a specific processing step IS needed
and why a specific product is produced.
Causes for Extra Processing Waste
Customer true requirements not properly defined
Product changes without process changes
Over processing to accommodate expected downtime
Lack of communication or Extra copies/excessive information
Redundant approvals
7. Waiting
Any time that is nonvalue added where the operator must stop producing good
parts and wait for materials or instructions or equipment downtime is huge loss in
manufacturing and come under this category.
Causes of Wait Time Waste
Misuses of automation
Unbalanced work load
Unplanned maintenance
Long process setup times
Upstream quality problems
Unlevelled scheduling
Poor Communication
In addition to these seven wastes, an additional waste category, Underutilized
Human Resources is added into the list because of its importance company.

8. Underutilized Human resources
The lack of involvement and participation of the employees in improving operations,
quality and safety will come under this category.
Causes of Underutilized Human Resources
Old thinking, politics and the business culture
Poor hiring practices
Low or no investment in training ,
Low pay and high turnover strategy
Management thinking

151

Value Stream Mapping
Value Stream is a method of recording a product's production path (materials and
information).It can serve as a starting point for management, engineers, production
associates, schedulers, suppliers, and customers to recognize identify waste and its
causes. The VSM process involves physically mapping the current state while
focusing on the desired goals, or the future state map, that can serve as the starting
point for other Lean improvement strategies.
A value stream is all the actions (both value added and non-value added) currently
required to bring a product through the main flows essential to every product: (1) the
production flow from raw material into the arms of the customer, and (2) the design
flow from concept to launch. Value-stream mapping uses seconds as the time unit
for cycle times, takt times, and available working times.
It helps in visualizing more than just the single-process level in the
production. We can see the flow.
It helps in seeing more than waste. Mapping also helps to see the sources of
waste in the value stream.
It provides a common language for talking about manufacturing processes.
It makes decisions about the flow apparent. Otherwise decisions generally
happen by default.
It ties together lean concepts and techniques, which helps in avoiding cherry
picking.
It forms the basis of an implementation plan by helping us design how the
whole door to door flow should operate. It becomes blueprint for lean
implementation.
It shows the linkage between information flow and the material flow. No other
tool does this.

152

Equipment Reliability
Theoretically, defects can be introduced into equipment at each of the six main
phases of its life cycle: Design, Purchase, Store, Installation/Commissioning,
Operation and Maintenance. It, therefore, stands to reason that if you manage the
defects leading to equipment failure, then you will be able to directly affect product
quality.
Continuous flow
Continuous flow is the ultimate objective of lean production, and creating continuous
flow has been the goal of countless kaizen projects. Ideally, product would flow
continuously all the way through your value streams, from raw material to the
customer. But that is too much to tackle at first. You need a place to focus. That
place is the pacemaker process or segment of the value stream, where products
take their final form for your external customer. This is usually the most important
segment of any value stream, since how the pacemaker operates affects both how
well you serve your customer and what demand is like for your upstream processes.
A steady production rhythm, level mix, and consistent continuous flow of material at
the pacemaker process place regular and consistent demands on your value
stream.
Pull production
A Pull Production system is a method of controlling the flow of resources by replacing
only what has been consumed. A pull system relies on customer demand. A Kanban
system is a Pull system that uses colour-coded cards attached to parts or part
containers to regulate the upstream production and delivery flow. In a Kanban
system, you establish the minimum and maximum on-hand quantities for raw
materials, supplies, and each assembly or product manufactured.
Continuous improvement
A company must instill a mentality of that continuous improvement is necessary to
reach companys goals. The incremental improvement of products and processes,
with the goal of reducing waste of improving workplace functionality, customer
service, or product performance is what is needed. Continuous improvement ideas,
coming from an inspired workforce, can result in astonishing improvements that
competitors may find impossible to match.
People involvement
Lean is centered on engaging and supporting people in the process to focus on
improving their processes. Every employee will be involved in improving process
using a standard and structured problem solving process that seeks out solutions to
root causes.
Just-In-Time
Just-in-time (JIT) is developed by Taichi Ohno and his workers at Toyota, one of
the pillars of TPS. It means to supply to each process what is needed when it is
needed and in the quantity it is needed.

The main objective of JIT manufacturing is to reduce manufacturing lead times
which is primarily achieved by drastic reductions in work-in-process (WIP). The
result is a smooth, uninterrupted flow of small lots of products throughout
153

production. These stock reductions will be accompanied by sufficiently great
improvements in quality and production to result in unheard-of cost reductions.
There are three main kind of stockholding: input material, work-in-process and
finished goods. JIT aims to reduce each of them through a holistic principle. In the
following text, the principle will be illustrated through each stockholding.

1. Input Material
The material which is in-house always relates to a firms purchasing policy and its
suppliers. In reality, the incoming material is unreliable or unpredictable. The
excessive stocks and stock out of incoming material are always happen. What firm
should do is to involve its suppliers into their own manufacturing instead of tell them
what to do.

2. Work-in-process
In the factory buffer stocks exist everywhere in several forms. WIP is always been a
key industrial measure. The total value forms part of the balance sheet, and
industrial managers are under intense pressure to keep the figures as low as
possible. However, there are many causes contribute to a high WIP. The causes
include:
Production planning
Machine capacity
Operator skills
Product variations
Changing product priorities
Machine breakdown
In order to achieve low WIP, JIT provides principles to deal with the above
obstacles. There are some main principles mentioned as following:
To reduce the workload and continuous production, JIT techniques work to level
production, spreading production evenly over time to make a smooth flow between
processes. Varying the mix of products produced on a single line, sometimes,
provides an effective means for producing the desired production mix in a smooth
manner. With pull system, Kanban is always to be used. To meet JIT objectives, the
process relies on signals or Kanban between different points in the process which
tell production when to make the next part. If JIT is implemented correctly, it can
improve a manufacturing organization's return on investment, quality and efficiency.
Its effective application cannot be independent of other key components of a lean
manufacturing system.
3. Finished goods
JIT production operating the pull system, there will be no finished goods lying in
dead stock Even though the stockholdings would be illustrated separately, JIT
should be designed as a whole principle to reduce the stocks as swiftly as possible.
To summarize, JIT is pulling work forward from one process to the next just in time.
One benefit of manufacturing JIT is reducing work-in-process inventory and thus
working capital. An even greater benefit is reducing production cycle times, since
materials spend less time sitting in queues waiting to be processed. However,
thegreatest benefit of manufacturing JIT is forcing reduction in flow variation, thus
contributing to continuous, ongoing improvement.
154

KANBAN
Introduction
KANBAN, a technique for work and inventory release, is a major component of Just
in Time and Lean Manufacturing philosophy. It was originally developed at Toyota
in the 1950s as a way of managing material flow on the assembly line. Over the
past three decades the Kanban process, a highly efficient and effective factory
production system, has developed into an optimum manufacturing environment
leading to global Competitiveness Kanban stands for Kan- card, Ban- signal. The
essence of the Kanban concept is that a supplier, the warehouse or manufacturing
should only deliver components as and when they are needed, so that there is no
excess Inventory. Within this system, workstations located along production lines
only produce/deliver desired components when they receive a card and an empty
container, indicating that more parts will be needed in production. In case of line
interruptions, each workstation will only produce enough components to fill the
container and then stop. In addition, Kanban limits the amount of inventory in the
process by acting as an authorization to produce more Inventories. Since Kanban is
a chain process in which orders flow from one process to another, the production or
delivery of components are pulled to the production line, in contrast to the traditional
forecast oriented method where parts are pushed to the line. In Just-In-Time (JIT)
systems, the subassemblies and parts required for final assembly are pulled in
small batches from the supplying work centres whenever they are needed. One of
the most popular methods used for implementing JIT is through the use of Kanban.
Kanban literally means visual card, signboard, or billboard. Kanban cards are
used to limit the amount of inventory tied up in Work In Progress on a
Manufacturing Floor. Not only is excess inventory waste, time spent producing it is
time that could be expended elsewhere.
Kanban cards act as a form of Currency representing how WIP is allowed in a
system.

155

Advantages of Kanban Processing
Provides a simple and under stable process. It provides quick and precise
information. There are low costs associated with the transfer of information.
Provides quick response to changes. There is a strict limit of over-capacity in
processes. Avoids overproduction. Minimizes waste. Full control can be maintained.
Delegates responsibility to line workers.
In recent years, Kanban has become an essential tool for sustaining the Lean
Manufacturing. To improve the operation condition and business many companies
are adapting to Kanban system. And many companies have successfully
implemented Kanban with the help of their Lean teams.
Kanban was introduced in Shahi Exports Private Limited in the fall 2011. However
its been only six months but company is receiving the outcome with few
obstructions. During this time, the Kanban philosophy has been updated to the
second version. There are many obstacles need to conquer which will increase the
performance of the company. To find that obstacles this research project is
introduced. This special Kanban implementing stage provides an open, dynamic,
inspired environment to process this research.
This research project will attempt to cover all the areas of Kanban in Shahi Exports
Pvt. Ltd. It starts with an explanation about what Kanban is and how it works and
ends with an analysis and evaluation.
Definition of Kanban
From different stages of Kanban development and the functions, Kanban has
different definition. Some are more close to what is used in Toyota; some are more
developed as a component of Lean. Two definitions will be showed below to form
an overall understanding of Kanban.
Definition one
Kanban is defined as demand scheduling. In processed controlled by Kanban, the
operators produce products based on actual usage rather than forecasted usage.
The Kanban schedule replaces the traditional weekly or daily production schedule.
This schedule is replaced with visual signals and predetermined decision rules that
allow the production operators to schedule the line. What Kanban replace is:
The daily scheduling activities necessary to operate the production process
The need for production planner and supervisors to continuously monitor
schedule status to determine the next item to run and when to change over

In this case, it frees the materials planners, schedulers and supervisors to manager
exception and to improve the process. Finally, it also places control at the value-
added and empowers the operators to control the line.

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Definition two
Kanban is a Lean agile system that can be used to enhance any software
development lifecycle including Scrum, XP, Waterfall, PSP/TSP and other methods.
Its goal is the efficient delivery of value.
Kanban promotes the lean concept of flow to continuously and predictably
deliver value
The work and the workflow is made visible to make activities and issue
obvious
Kanban limits WIP to promote quality, focus and finishing
By comparing with the first definition, the second one is more abstract. It is defined
by what functions it could deliver.
Physical Signalling of Kanban
In Shahi Exports, various types of physical Kanban are used on the production
floor. Each company exercises their own innovative physical Kanban based upon
their products that are manufactured on the floor. The physical Kanban that are
used in this company is illustrated below:
Physical Kanban and its standard working rules
After the production scheduling process is completed, the generated Takt decision
is transferred into production line by the physical Kanban. There are several
physical Kanban used in Shahi Exports, Bangalore: Kanban card, Kanban
dashboard with andon system, Kanban loading and input book. These physical
Kanban are expected to work as a system to enable the production flow.
Kanban cards
Kanban card is a colour paper which goes together through production line from
cutting supermarket till packing the garments to cartons. There are three kinds of
colour Kanban cards which represents different flow of information from one
process to the other. Kanban cards travel with the production item and identify the
style number, Line number, Kanban number, colour and quantity issued. Kanban
cards serve as both a transaction and communication device. The following figure
shows a Kanban card used between processes.

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Selecting the physical signalling for the Kanban

When people think of Kanban, most of them will think of Kanban cards. Actually,
there are different types of physical Kanban could be applied in production system.
Each company could definitely do some innovation on their own physical Kanban
regarding of their unique production systems. In the following passage, some main
used physical Kanban will be illustrated.

1. Kanban cards
Kanban cards are essentially pieces of paper which travel with the production item
and identify the part number and amount in the container. Kanban cards serve as
both a transaction and communication device. The following figure shows a Kanban
card used between processes.


Kanban using cards signal often follow the routines below:

A card is placed with the completed production container
The container with its Kanban card is then moved into a staging area to wait
for use
When the container is moved to production work center for use, the Kanban
card is pulled from the container to signal consumption
The Kanban card is then placed in a cardholder or Kanban post, to await
transit back to the production line
When the Kanban card returns to the production line, it is placed in a
cardholder that has been set up to provide a visual signal for operation of the
line
The Kanban card sits in the cardholder waiting to be attached to a completed
production container
The Kanban cards illustrated here mainly concern the concept used in
Toyota production system. Individual company could do any verification
regarding of its own condition. However, this Kanban card is more useful in
assembly line than other type of production line

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2. Kanban boards
Kanban boards simply use magnets, plastic chips, coloured washers, etc. as
signals. The objects represent the items in inventory- backlog, in-process inventory.
It helps to visualize the workflow, limit WIP and measure the lead time. There is a
sample of Kanban board. Each firm could develop the column detail according to its
own production condition.


The two columns stands side shows the product backlog and finished products.
And the column in between illustrate the sequence processes. The stick notes are
updated by operators going from backlog to finished products. To determine what
gets produced next, operators just look at the board and follow its rules.

Kanban boards work best when two conditions exist in the relationship of inventory
storage and the production process:

The board can be positioned in the path of the flow of all the material to the
customer
The board can be positioned so that the production process can see it and
follow the visual signals


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3. Look-see
Look-see is a Kanban signal that behavior relying on the sensor of people` eyes. It
includes visual signals such as floor marking that shows when to replenish the item.
The basic rule with a look-see signal is that when yellow signal signs, then it is time
to replenish the item. The red, or danger, signal is also integrated into this scheme.
Look-see signals greatly aid in the implementation of the Kanban supermarkets.

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4. Two-card Kanban

Two-card Kanban is typically used for large items where flow racks are not utilized.
It is a combination system of the Kanban board and the Kanban card racks. Its
working are discuss below:
When product is produced or received from a vendor, two cards are pulled
from a Kanban card rack and filled out: one Kanban card goes with the
container; the second Kanban card goes into a special FIFO box
Whenever a container of this product is needed, a material handler goes to
the FIFO box and pulls out the bottom card
The material handler then goes to the location written on the card and pulls
this product for the production operation
The material hander then takes both cards and places them in the Kanban
card racks, which show the schedule signals for production or record

This system allows pallet size items to flow while managing product rotation. It
works especially well when used for floor stacked items.
Determine rules of Kanban
Before developing rules for Kanban implementation, it is essential to make
materials and physical Kanban to move in a continuous flow. This is to determine
how material and physical Kanban move through the production process and how
the movement of Kanban goes back to production process when they are released.


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The rules for developing the Kanban are its driving force. The rules are the
guidance to allow the operation unit staffs to control the production schedule. The
rules should include:

The part numbers covered by the Kanban
How the design works-how the cards, magnets, etc. move
The meaning of the scheduling signals and how to interpret them
Any scheduling rules of thumb
The preferred production sequence
Who to go to and what the helpers should do when contacted
Any special quality or documentation requirements

When creating rules, one thing should be kept in mind that the rules are to
communicate how to run the Kanban and to allow the process operator to schedule
the line. The only way the production operators can take over scheduling the line is
by the rules providing clear direction and scheduling guidance.

When drafting the scheduling rules make them easy and unambiguous to follow.
The thinking process should be through to predict possible misconceptions and
correct them so they will not occur. The signals emergency changeover should be
spell out and also seek feedback to make sure that everyone else is as clear about
how to interpret the signals as asked.

Additionally, the scheduling rules should contain clear-cut decision rules. The
decision rules should help the production operators make consistent production
scheduling decision based on the stated priorities. The rules should provide rate
information, if applicable, to allow the operator to develop production expectation.
The decision rules should contain instructions on when and whom to call for help.
Also the rules should include all the items that everyone seems to forget from time
to time.
Create a visual management plan
The visual management plan will explain the Kanban to everyone and visually
instruct everyone how the Kanban operates. The basic goal of visual aids should be
to answer the questions that pop up on a daily basis: where do I get this from,
where do I move that, which colour buggy contains which part, is there a colour
scheme, do we have any more of this part?
To make the visual aids colourful and easy to read. There are some useful
instructions:
Keep the colours consistent with existing colour schemes
Avoid red-typically associated with safety or quality
Avoid yellow-typically associated with safety
Use large print for hanging signs and wall signs
Avoid excessive words on signs-people dont read signs, they glance at them
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After the above three steps: Selecting the physical signaling for the Kanban;
determine rules of Kanban; create a visual management plan. The Kanban design
process could be finished.
Principles for Kanban design/implementation

This part is to summarize the above Kanban implementing details and provide a
general guidance. Here is a minimal way to implement Kanban:
Preparation stage:
The entire workflow should be reviewed. Look at the end-to-end process
from initial concept forward through release. Analyze for any excessive time
pockets. Remember to look at handoff times
The bottlenecks should be addressed. If bottlenecks are found, including
upstream of the engineering phase, work to break them down and deliver
their value in small increments
Switch from iterations to SLA. Forget about iteration time-boxes because
they encourage excess batching of planning and of work. Instead, decide on
the SLA (Service Level Agreement) time-box for each feature/epic. The clock
starts when the active planning on each feature starts and ends when it is
released
Classify by Cost of Delay. Classify each feature by type, e.g.: is it a fixed
date or a rush job? Then have all executives in a meeting use this
classification to help prioritize a limited queue that the team can pull from.
Update this queue weekly or however often you want but allow the team to
continue on features they start
Set WIP Limits. With the team and the managers together, decide on a WIP
limit for any workflow phases you want to limit (minimum: the In Progress
phase). This is a limit of the features that can be in progress at a time. They
only pull a new feature when a slot opens by finishing a feature
Make work visible. Have a visible task/story board where the team can see it.
On the board, show the workflow phases on the board and the agreed WIP
limits
Groom the queue. The team should periodically scope the features waiting in
the limited queue to make sure they will fit in the agreed SLA time-box. If not,
they are thrown back to the stakeholders to break down further

Implementation: the per-feature SLA clock starts now.

Pull the next work item. When capacity is available, the team chooses a
feature to pull. They will consider the Cost of Delay classification plus
resource considerations when deciding which one to pull
Decompose the work items just in time. The team breaks the feature/epic
into stories and/or tasks when it is pulled
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Watch for flow. Everyone obeys the WIP limits. Note bottlenecks that occur.
Adjust limits or other elements as needed till you achieve a smooth delivery
flow Inspect and adapt. Have daily stand-ups, periodic demos, and
retrospectives (or you can deal with issues as they arise and get rid of
retrospectives)
Littles law
Little law is firstly proved by John little in 1961. In queuing theory, it says:

The average number of customers in a stable system (over some time interval) is
equal to their average arrival rate, multiplied by their average time in the system.
Although it looks intuitively reasonable, it's a quite remarkable result.

The strength of Littles law is the fact that is makes no assumption about the
probability distribution of arrival rate or service rate, or if they make a first-in-first-out
queues, or some other order in which they are served. The only pre-condition or
requirement for Littles Law to hold is that it must be applied to a stable or a steady
state system.

Littles law one thing that constant and true in manufacturing field. In manufacturing
field, Littles law could be expressed as: cycle time in time unit is equal to amount of
work in process in units, divided by the output in units during this time unit. This is
to say that if the total units throughout the work areas and the output per time unit
are constant, the cycle time could be easily got. It is also true that if the WIP
remains constant and the output is decreased, the cycle time will go up. And if the
Takt is constant, when reducing the WIP, the cycle time would be reduced.

If manufacturing could maintain close control over the cycle time of its product, from
the input point till the completely release point, it could predict to customers what
they expect in terms of delivery. If the process were completely under control, there
could be no problem in guaranteeing delivery date. The customer satisfactory could
be increased.

In realistic manufacturing, manufacturing processes are mostly hard to predict.
Problems occur everywhere, e.g. operator absence, machine breaking down,
vendor problems etc. If the input is the same, and the output goes down, WIP will
most definitely build up at the bottleneck. It is know that the bottleneck could
change the pace until the problems are fixed.

Littles law tells that how much it could raise or lower the output. Once product is
launched in shop floor, it is crucial to do everything to keep it moving. If the
products are stuck somewhere, it is better to slow or stop launching new products in
the production system.

According to Littles law, if a production system is expected to increase its output,
the way is not to increase the input amount when its output levels can`t be reached.
The best way is to find the bottleneck and increase its output. Littles law suggests
that dont operate on the edge of capability or accept orders that challenge the edge
of production capacity. If it does, there is a risk to prolong the delivery dates.
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Littles law backs up the Flow theory in manufacturing field. Idealistically, if it is one-
piece-flow, the output is much easy to predict and the cycle time would be limited to
its extreme.

Framework
The main part of the theoretical framework introduces some common used
manufacturing and production theories- Lean manufacturing, JIT manufacturing,
Kanban. Some theories domain the whole manufacturing, even supply chain. Some
theories are limited on a factory level. And the purpose of this part is, through
holistic view, to show the possibilities and enablers which could turn the production
system into a more efficient, competitive system.

All the production theories share some common concept, e.g. non-value adding
elimination, pull system, make it flow thinking, etc. This enables each unique factory
to rethink and reverse the theories and techniques into its own process technology.
The theoretical part also mentioned mass customization which is one of the most
important facts each company should face. And the customer is always the goal.
Without it, producers are meaningless.

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Kanban in Shahi Exports Private Limited (Knits)

In the modern industry, there are a lot of companies using Kanban to revolutionize
there production system to gain more competitive advantages. There are existing
practical experiences of Kanban but no one is mature enough to be used to solve
different kind of production problem.

As a garment manufacturer and exporter, Shahi Exports has its unique production
condition. The Kanban design had been done but projected results is not achieved.
There are lots of problems that have come up and challenge this Kanban, and push
it to further its development. The process would be more like a forward iteration
developing: reveal problem, redesign Kanban, and over and over again to reach
continuous improvement.

The goal of Kanban is to reduce the work in-process inventory (WIP), to shorten the
production Through-Put-Time and ensure the production process matches the
expected delivery dates. From the administration perspective, it is expected that
Kanban could simplify the information transporting process, promote
communication between management and production operation. In other words,
every operator would be easier to understand what to do, when to do, and how to
do, while the management process should be more simplified and efficient.

When transferring this macro philosophy into daily implementation, Kanban could
be broke down into two main components:

Production scheduling process (before putting orders into production line);
Kanban implementation through production line.

So far it is easy to realize that the concept of Kanban in Shahi Exports has much
wider boundary than the Kanban as usually known. It is not just a visual tool but
also a business tactical philosophy which involves the firms manufacturing strategy
as well its business strategy.
In the following part, the two main components consisting of the Kanban
implementing system will be described into detail.

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Physical Signaling of Kanban

In Shahi Exports, various types of physical Kanban are used on the production
floor. Each company exercises their own innovative physical Kanban based upon
their products that are manufactured on the floor. The physical Kanban that are
used in this company is illustrated below:

1. Calculation of Kanban size
The Kanban system which is followed in this organization is followed by a cycle
which is known as Kanban Cycle. A Kanban Loading plan is made before loading
Kanban card to the batch which is made as per packing list. The number of units
should be of Takt time equivalent to one hour and multiplies of carton size.

Kanban Calculation:
1 Kanban + Number of Workstation X 3 Units + 1 Kanban
Example, 35 WS X 3 units = 105 Units
Kanban Size = Takt Time output = 75 units
Ratio = 12 units/ carton
Therefore 75 units/ 12 = 6 (approx)
Kanban Size = 6 cartons X 12 = 72
Therefore, 72 + 105 + 72 = 249/72 = 4 (approx) Kanban

Minimum of 3 Kanban should be kept ready in cutting for ready to load and cutting
section should display WIP Kanban on the cutting table. Moreover every Kanban
needs to be completed as per loading quantity and offered for quality specifications
and carton audit.

2. Physical Kanban and its standard working rules
After the production scheduling process is completed, the generated Takt decision
is transferred into production line by the physical Kanban. There are several
physical Kanban used in Shahi Exports, Bengaluru: Kanban card, Kanban
dashboard with andon system, Kanban loading and input book. These physical
Kanban are expected to work as a system to enable the production flow.

3. Kanban cards
Kanban card is a colour paper which goes together through production line from
cutting supermarket till packing the garments to cartons. There are three kinds of
colour Kanban cards which represents different flow of information from one
process to the other. Kanban cards travel with the production item and identify the
style number, Line number, Kanban number, colour and quantity issued. Kanban
cards serve as both a transaction and communication device. The following figure
shows a Kanban card used between processes:
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Types of Kanban Cards used in Shahi Exp. Pvt. Ltd

Blue Kanban is displayed when bit parts are available in the cutting.


White Kanban is displayed on cutting table and EOL which indicates packing list
is adhered.


Pink Kanban is displayed on cutting table and EOL which indicates when packing
list is not adhered.


Yellow Kanban is displayed on warehouse which indicates there is garment wash
after sewing.
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Kanban using cards signal often follow the routines below:
A card is displayed on the Kanban dashboard which means availability of
bits in the supermarket
The batch/ line signals to the dashboard which indicates requirement of bits
in cutting table
The bits are moved from supermarket to cutting table along with the blue
Kanban card
The cutting of bits takes place according to micro-cut plan and white Kanban
card is then displayed on the Kanban post of cutting table, to await to load
back to the production line
When the white Kanban card returns to the Kanban post at the end of the
production line that has been set up to provide a visual signal for operation of
the line
The Kanban card is displayed till the finishing of the garment along with the
packing of garments in the cartons
The sticker attached to Kanban card is stick to Kanban input book after
accepting that cartons in CTPAT area.

KANBAN NO.
STYLE NO.
COLOUR
LINE NO.
QUANTITY
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Kanban Dashboard

The Kanban dashboard is located outside cutting supermarket on the production
floor. It guesses the status of the available bits for cutting.

The blue Kanban cards are displayed on the dashboard which has the information
of that particular style. The Kanban dashboard uses column to show line number
and on system. The indicator of and on will blink when particular line will require
bits, the supermarket in charge instantly transferred bits to the cutting table.

The responsible persons are supermarket in charge, cutting manager and
supervisor and batch supervisor.
Work Flow:
The supermarket in-charge display the blue Kanban cards by writing style
number, quantity, colour, Kanban number and mark the micro-cut plan with
the highlighter
Cutting Manager review the dashboard of the available bits and monitor the
cutting table
When there is availability of bits on the cutting table press the switch off and
on and dashboard light blinks to instruct the in charge of issuing the bits to
cutting section.


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Kanban Loading and Input Book
Kanban loading and Input Book is an assistant tool for Kanban card which keeps
the record of loading Kanban to the batch and completion of that Kanban. The
feeding helper which maintains the record of those two books and it is the
responsibility of his/her to watch daily loading and completion of Kanban. By
observing the two books anyone can find the loaded quantity, WIP of the line, which
Kanban is taking much time to operate.
KANBAN INPUT BOOK KANBAN LOADING BOOK

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Production Flow
The current production flow of Kanban is illustrated by flowchart below:

Fabric Supplier
Fabric Store /
Accessories
Bitting or Direct
Cutting
Washing
Supermarket
Laying, Spreading
and Cutting
Ticketing
Sewing, Finishing
and Packing
NO
YES
PRINTING/ EMBROIDERY
YES
NO
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1. Planning
Planning department plans the line plan of the factory after order allocation by
central planning of IED, follow up of materials i.e. fabric and trims, timely delivery of
garments which has to be carrying out in the factory. The plan is implemented after
discussing with GM, manager of respective departments, merchants and IE.
2. Fabric Store
Fabric is mainly procured from three sources:
i. Nominated supplier as referred by the buyer
ii. Own fabric manufacturing units in Tirupur
iii. Third party fabric manufacturing units like Gokulraj Exports, Alok Industries etc.

When fabric is reached at the unit then weight of the fabric is measured to match as
distributed by supplier and stored on racks. The roll of fabrics is stored by
displaying fabric bin card to the rolls where specific item number, weight, buyer,
length of the roll, fabric description, date, colour, supplier lot number and invoice
number , in case of any defect found on the rolls can be easily send to the supplier.
The data are recorded in the system by mentioning all the specifications of the rolls
and also the specific rack number so that location of the rolls can be found when it
is needed for production. There are separated racks for rejected rolls where red
tape is attached on the rolls. The rejected rolls are sent to the supplier after
receiving the cash; if supplier is unavailable to return the cash then rolls are sold in
the domestic market.
There are also separate racks for storing collars and cuffs. There are total twenty
eight racks where every rack is numbered for easy identification of storage of fabric
rolls.
There are issue and receive area in fabric store office. The issue area will provide
the amount of fabric rolls as required in production floor and receive area will collect
the fabrics that are left after producing the desired garments. If any further
requirements of fabric rolls are needed for production of required garments as order
by buyer, then the amount of utilization of fabric is checked and then only fabric is
issued.

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3. Fabric Audit
The fabric rolls are inspected on fabric inspection machine and 20 % of the
rolls from total fabric rolls are inspected. There are three types of tapes
which are used to distinguish the fabrics.
Yellow tape is used when fabric rolls are to be inspected
Green tape is used when fabric roll is approved
Red tape is used in case of rejection
Then taking some swatches from green tape fabric and tested in testing laboratory
i.e. physical and chemical testing to check whether fabric property is same as
desired by the buyer. The records of the testing are send to the merchant and head
of the fabric department.
3. Accessories Store
Trims and accessories are procured from nominated supplier as referred by the
buyer. It is received in receiving area and 20 % of the trims and accessories are
checked from the total receive by physical quality and chemical quality test. Three
types of stickers are used for easy identification of the trims. Yellow, green and red
circle sticker for trims to be inspected, passed inspection and rejection respectively
and stored on respective racks as designated.Trims and Accessories store
department receive the order quantity list from planner and send to respective sub-
store on every floor.
4. Bitting or Direct Cutting
The bitting is a process of cutting the fabric to specific length as planned in micro-
cut plan as per marker. It is done with the help of end cutter by keeping the same
serial no. as given in micro-cut plan. Then the bits are shifted for washing process
in bundled form with details of item, PO and micro-cut plan. The plastic sacks are
used to store the bits and to send to washing. The end bits are not included in the
micro-cut plan and it is sent separately by updating the same in the bitting record by
checking consumption. The stripe fabric rolls are bit manually with the help of
scissors by counting the no. of stripes.
There are various parameters which are checked in process of bitting Lengthwise
and Width wise shrinkage, GSM value and separately. These parameters are
checked to match with the requirement of the buyer.

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5. Washing
Washing of bits is totally depends upon the buyer. Two types of washing are
followed in this department.
(i) Bit parts received from bitting and
(ii) Garments from stitching. In which process washing is needed is decided
by the buyer.
(i) Bits from Bitting: - The washing department receives the bitting plan from
planner and according to that plan washing is being carried out. The bits are
received from bitting and weight is measured. According to the weight of the bits,
the process of washing is takes place. The washing of bits takes 0.50- 1.5 hour
depends upon the type of wash then extracting of water through hydro extractor
takes 3-4minutes and further drying takes 40 mins for 150 kg bits respectively.
Then bit fabrics is inspected whether it meets required parameters like shrinkage,
length and width, GSM as desired by the buyer else again washing process is
carried out. If fabric bits passed inspection and then it is stored on the racks
according to the floor with clear demarcation of floor.
(ii) Garments form stitching: - The washing department receives garments which
have washing at garment stage from the floor along with the parameters as desired
by the buyer. The weight of the receive garments are measured and according to
that garment is passed thorough series of washing process. Then garment is
inspected and send to the floor for further finishing.
6. Supermarket
In the supermarket, bits are stored in racks after washing. When there is
requirement of bits in cutting then only it is brought in the cutting supermarket from
washing department. The bits are stored according to the WIP of cutting section.
The bits are stored on racks according to the assigned line no. There is Kanban
dashboard which is displayed outside of the supermarket and it is designed
according to the line no. The Blue Kanban card is displayed on that dashboard
where style number, Kanban number, PO number and number of bits are
mentioned on that card. When there is requirement of bits, and on is blinked on that
dashboard on that specific line number and then it is issued to that specific line. The
Kanban card is provided along with the bits. When bits get over with the cutting
then sticker which is attached to the card is pull out and pasted on the lay and
cutting record sheet which is again stored in the record file. Besides that Kanban
dashboard, another notice board which has a 38 description of micro cut plan and
swatch card of that particular bits that are available in that supermarket. In that
supermarket two days WIP is maintained.

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7. Laying, Spreading, Cutting, Ticketing and Checking
The number of laying, spreading, cutting, ticketing and checking table is depends
on number of lines available on the floor. This process takes place on that particular
line where bits are assigned from the supermarket. The laying and spreading is
done manually, and cutting is done with the help of straight knife cutter as well as
band knife cutter depending upon the requirement. After laying and spreading,
fabric is kept idle for 1 hour for relaxation and then only cutting process starts. Then
cut parts are stored under the table after checking as per assigned space.
The cutting table should have a maximum WIP of 2 Blue Kanban for cutting and 1
for auditing. If the WIP level drops, the requirement for fabric has to be given to
supermarket. Once the audit of one lay is over, the next Blue Kanban card has to
be issued from fabric supermarket to the cutting table. If two rolls of fabric are used
in the same lay, the lays from the 2 rolls have to be separated by a sheet of paper
to avoid shade mix-up. After cutting, the cutting has to be checked-passed and
bundled as per Kanban Plan. If the cut audit is failed, then re-cut of the defective
panels has to be done. If the style is comprised of process like printing or
embroidery, the bundles are sorted out as per Kanban Plan and sent to the
respective departments.
There is a Kanban post where white colour Kanban card is displayed which shows
the availability of cut parts. Minimum three Kanban cards should be displayed which
shows an indication that cut parts are ready to load for sewing. There is a Kanban
loading book where specific Kanban number is given to that card and quantity of
the parts available for sewing is mentioned along with the time of loading to the
sewing. After loading the cut parts to the batch for sewing, white Kanban card which
was displayed to the cutting table Kanban post is transferred to the finishing
Kanban post. There is a separate cutting minus book where record of cut number,
quantity of pieces cut and ticket no. which was provided to the cut parts are
mentioned.
8. Sewing
The cutting table, sewing batch and finishing line are in one line so that cut to
packing of the garments can takes place online. The cut parts are loaded in the
batch which are to be stitched with the various sewing machines including O/L,
SNLS, F/L, Button hole and button attach machines in one line. There is an inline
checker after each panel operation so that quality of the stitch and garment is
maintained throughout the production. If the checker finds any kind of alterations
then it is done on priority. Each operator is provided with cap, gloves and cutter so
that panels dont get dirty after multiple handling and thread cutting is done on that
instant after stitching the panels. The panels are transferred wrapped in polythene
bag so that whiteness of the panels is maintained throughout the sewing. Each
operator is provided with a dustbin so that workstations and floor remain clean after
stitching. After getting over with the shift each operator has to clean up the
workstations as mentioned in AM rules. The garments are audited at the end of line
as per AQL 1.5 for fabric, sewing and packing quality parameters. After audit, the
Kanban Cards has to be stamped with Pass Stamp or Fail Stamp.

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Feeding Helper: - Feeding helper has to follow some responsibilities on the floor so
that Kanban cards flow smoothly. The responsibilities of feeding helper are:

1. To maintains the records of issuing and reconcile of Kanban card,
2. To decide the colour of Kanban card which has to be issued.
3. To feed cut pieces to the batch after counting.
4. To collect sewing trims except bulk trims (threads, etc.) from trim sub-store as
per the Kanban plan in the pouches giving details of the item, style and Kanban
number.

There is a feeding helper for every two lines who will perform above responsibilities.
The feeding helper will provide the Kanban card number which will be mentioned in
Kanban loading book as well as in Kanban batch book at the time of loading. When
garments are send to CTPAT area , the sticker stick to the white Kanban card is
pull out and same has to be pasted to the Kanban loading book as well as Kanban
batch book after taking approval from CTPAT head by feeding helper. Minimum 3
Kanban should be loaded to the batch by feeding helper and more than 3 Kanban
cards can be issued only after receiving the previous cards. It is sole responsibility
of the feeding helper to check which garments are sending to hold area or
warehouse and that kind of Kanban card colour can be issued.
No of Kanban in the line = 1(at loading point) + 3 * No. of workstations + 2(finished
Kanban for audit)
9. Finishing
The finishing line is installed in the same line where cutting and sewing of that
particular garment takes place. When stitching of the whole garment is finished,
then only responsibilities of finishing starts. The finishing line looks after thread
cutting, checking of stitch, and measurement of panels as given in measurement
sheet, ironing, tagging and folding respectively. If there is any alterations or missing
of stitch has to be cleared on priority by the supervisor to that particular operator
who is performing that operation. The garments are packed online i.e. polythene
packing of the garments and carton packing are happened as per packing list
provided by planner and send to the CTPAT area. The garments which are not
packed online are sent to hold area or warehouse. All packing procedure will be
followed as per packing norms.

Hold Area The garments which pass the finishing audit but due to three reasons
it is send to hold area:

(i) Unavailability of packing trims
(ii) Sizes not available in case of ratio packing
(iii) Colours not available in case of rainbow packing

Then pink colour Kanban card is issued by feeding helper and same is updated in
Kanban batch book after getting approval from hold area head.

177

Warehouse If Washing is required at garment stage as desired by buyer then
that garments are send to warehouse. The feeding helper issued a pink colour
Kanban during the time of loading and same is updated after getting approval form
warehouse head. The garments in warehouse after washing undergo finishing
process in buffer line which is installed on that same floor where previous stitching
was performed. A yellow Kanban card is issued to the buffer batch as an indication
that pieces are undergoing finishing and received from warehouse. The records of
yellow Kanban are maintained in warehouse itself.
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TERMINOLOGY
Micro-cut Plan A detailed plan for cutting giving details of the marker to be
used and the number of bits for a certain Item, PO and Colour
Kanban Plan A detailed plan for the number of panels to be loaded in the
lines. This is based on the packing list of the particular style and the number
of panels loaded in the lines is such as to pack the Kanban at the end of the
line
Carton Tracker A list to count the number of cartons loaded, sewn and
packed at different stages
Production Kanban The Kanban(information) issued from supermarket to
production centre to produce specific product in the given amount to be
delivered within specified time so as to replenish the space and to maintain a
minimum stock of goods to be fed further
Withdrawal Kanban The Kanban issued from production centre to take
goods from supermarket to produce the next good
Movement Kanban The Kanban issued from production centre to Safety
Stock to take raw material to produce goods
Supermarket A temporary storage point to keep goods and issue the
same for production
Value Stream Map A process route indicating the flow of material and the
information to produce any specific good

179

RESPONSIBILITIES
Floor Planner Preparation of line plan for the factory after order allocation
by central planning
PPC Executive Order follow up on fabric flow, trims availability, PPE and
PCD time. Receipt and issue of style folder along with sample to the floor
Packing In-charge Preparation of packing list & Carton Tracker and
getting the confirmation from PPC. This activity has to be done before PCD.
Ensuring the goods are ready for on-time shipment
Cutting Manager / In-charge Creating Micro-cut plan and Kanban Plan for
each Item, PO and Colour along with Priority. Distributing the same list to bitting,
washing, sewing and finishing for follow-up
Bitting In-charge Bitting as per Micro-cut plan and sending the bits to
Washing as per micro-cut plan only
Loader Updating line loading book with Kanban Stickers and ensuring
exact quantity is fed to the lines
Production Managers Getting the pieces, loaded as per Kanban, stitched,
finished and audit passed within specified time. Handing over the pieces as per
Kanban to Finishing In-charge after audit clearance
Supervisors Solving line issues, getting alterations done before that
specific Kanban is finished, getting rejected pieces re-cut and stitched to
complete the pieces loaded as per Kanban
Kanban Auditors Auditing the pieces at the End-of-Line. Putting Audit
Seal mark of Pass or Fail on the Kanban Stickers after the Audit
Finishing In-charge Receiving the pieces as per Kanban from the lines
(after audit pass only). Storing the pieces in respective areas. Sealing of Kanban
as a proof of goods received and updating the Carton Tracker to update the
status of shipment
180

METHODOLOGY
Literature review:
Before starting this project, proper understanding regarding Lean manufacturing,
5S, Kanban, Kaizen, Poke Yoke, TPM and Toyota Production System handbook
and the overall impact on the production system was understood. For that many
literature are referred and other factors from Libraries, Internet and graduation
projects of earlier batches and few Journals.

Finding place to carry out this project:
For our study we got opportunity from Shahi Exports Private Limited (Knits),
Bengaluru. There we have observed the system and analyzed as discussed in the
report.

Setting up scope of the project:
This project is a study of Kanban practices only. Because of the time constraints the
scope of this project has been set to four floors only and the two floors which are
extension of the Unit-12 were not observed and analyzed.


181

Approach to the project:

Here the actual implementation of the project takes place. Here a systematic
approach was followed to pursuit this project. The steps that we followed were:
Comprehensive study of the Kanban system in Floor A.
Study the flow of information through Kanban cards in the Floor A.
Study of floors B, C, and D
Comparing Floor A to B, C and D
Requirement briefing from Industrial Mentor
Coming up with the problems in the practices of Kanban
Analyzing problems by 5W1H
Questionnaire is prepared and getting approval from Industry Mentor
with some changes
Distribution of questionnaire and analyzing the results
Proposal of Visual Board
Requirement briefing from Industrial Mentor
Implementation of Visual Board
Feedback from Industry mentor


182

ANALYSIS OF KANBAN
Analysis
After the description in last chapter, it is ready to do the analysis and evaluation of
Kanban. This chapter starts with a introduction of 5W1H which aims to emphasize
for improvement of the system by identifying the problems as well as solutions.
Kanban is expected to produce what customer exactly wants with low-cost, high
quality and quick delivery time in order to realize quick response to market.

Using Five Ws and One H approach to Kanban
5W1H (who, what, where, when, why, how) is a method of asking questions about a
process or a problem taken up for improvement. Four of the Ws (who, what, where,
when) and the one H is used to comprehend for details, analyze inferences and
judgment to get to the fundamental facts and guide statements to get to the
abstraction. W1H of Kanban explains the approach to be followed by exactly
understanding and analyzing the process, project or a problem for improvement.
Here is an outline of the 5W1H approach for Kanban.

1. What Concept
The what in Kanban is a concept, a subject whose basic goal is to focus on the
basic steps and analysis. In the Kanban system, anything that dissatisfies the
customer is the quantity is less as ordered and so understanding the customer and
customer requirements is the most important issue in establishing a Kanban
culture. Kanban is a problem-solving management methodology that can be applied
to any type of business process to identify and eliminate the root causes of
accountability, ultimately improving the key business processes and saving cost for
the organization.

2. Why Objective
How to achieve the goals is accomplished in why context. The goal of Kanban is
to help people in their attempt to improve business processes to deliver the ordered
quantities. Kanban requires practitioners to consider both the voice of the
customer and the voice of the process, it reduces the gap between the two
voices. That leads to more satisfied customers and that is what makes the Kanban
initiative a profitable business proposition. Not only does the Kanban organization
save costs, but it also has great opportunity to increase sales.

Kanban focuses on long and sustained success for every improvement projects,
improving each and every process in the organization. That gives organizations a
way to continue improving year after year and even provides a system that rewards
out of the box thinking, which can accelerate the rate of improvement.

Since it is a data-driven approach to problem solving, Kanban builds robustness in
daily management. This starts a set of chain reaction in strategic, tactical and
operational improvements which compels the organization to set a stretch target for
every business performance and set goals for everyone in the organization.

183

3. Who People Involvement

Kanban eventually involves everyone in the organization, starting from the top
management to the operator/staff level. It requires a companywide understanding of
the processes, a commitment toward achieving the set goals and an involvement in
projects that accompany those goals. Since Kanban is for the total business
process, it involves everyone in the organization.

The top levels of management appoint Kanban Team who are members of the
leadership team who are responsible for selecting Kanban and are ultimately
accountable for system results. Just under this system, who typically have day-to-
day responsibility for the business process being improved and their role are to
ensure the Kanban has the resources required to successfully execute the system.
In well-functioning Kanban operation, everyone in the organization is involved in
reducing defects, reducing cycle times and increasing customer satisfaction.

4. Where Location
Kanban is applied to all business processes who are maintaining accountability. To
start with, it can be applied to key business processes which have the highest
visible impact on the customers and shareholders. All business processes
impacting customer satisfaction and profit growth of the organization need to
undergo Kanban methodology implementation.

5. When Time
As long as an organization has a strong desire to improve the business
performance by identifying each and every key business processes for
improvement, the starting point of Kanban does not matter. An Organization can
implement Kanban:
When they find out that the customer satisfaction level is erode.
When they want to retain a leadership position through quality in the market.
When there is a clear indication of losing market share due to quality.
When their processes have not changed for a long time.
When the quality of a product is largely dependent on human inspection skills
instead of being built-in to the production process.
When they think their processes have all reached an improvement level.
When they are required to improve performance in all areas of their business
process.
When they decide they want to survive and grow in todays competitive
market.


184

6. How Solutions
Depending upon the requirement of the organization and the type of organization
different strategies are followed for Kanban implementation. Through 5W the
problem has been identified and the cause of the problems, the solutions are
provided with one H process. The improvement in the system and meet the
demands of the customers is the basic requirement of this approach.

The structure of 5W1H of Kanban can help organizations to consider all aspects of
the Kanban situation in detail and hence can be implemented when analyzing a
business process for improvement opportunities. The interrelationships also guide
Kanban practitioners to take systematic error-free steps to complete the Kanban
project successfully on-time and every time.

The details of the problems and the solutions are given below:
Case Study
This case study is a model of Kanban to know the perspective of various executives
who are responsible for implementing Kanban on the production floor. This model
assumes that Kanban travel instantly to their destinations when information of the
garment is attached to the piece of paper and that both Kanban and sticker travel in
quantities of one. If the line operates by blocking before service (information
blocking), then the practices remain idle and this leads to the failure of the Kanban
system. In this study, the responsible executives are asked with various questions
related to Kanban practices, by knowing the reasons and problems we can bridge
the gap between the system and the executives. The sustainability of the Kanban
system can be done if the problems are known to the management and eradicating
those problems gradually can lead to successfully implementation of the Kanban
practices.

Questionnaire
A questionnaire is prepared for industrial engineers, Cutting executives, Finishing
and packing supervisors and Production managers of respective floors.
There are seven industrial engineers, six cutting executives, eight finishing
supervisors, four packing supervisors and ten production managers.
The questionnaire is prepared in English and Kannada for the better understanding
of the questions. Multiple choice and brief questions were asked to know the
opinions of each executive in the questionnaire. The answers of each executive are
kept confidential so that through the analysis only the problems can chalk out and
the management takes necessary steps to eradicate this problem.

185

Analysis of this study

Industrial Engineers (Refer to Annexure 3)
IE in every floor knew about the Kanban system, the productivity and costing can
be achieved with this system. The benefits of this system are well known to them,
but there are some constraints which every IE in each floor is facing in adhering
Kanban and if this problem is resolved then successful implementation is possible.
Constraints in adhering Kanban
The main constraints which seven out of eight IEs felt in each floor is labor
absenteeism which hampering them to clear Kanban in-serial wise according to
Kanban Loading Plan. Second constraint IEs are facing is re-cutting of panels if the
garments are defective and quality is not matched according to buyer. The re-
cutting should be done in priority or at that instant so that this problem can be
resolved. Last constraint is spot wash of panels when panels have contamination
due to oil, grease or dust, which can be resolved by doing spot wash at that instant
so that cut panels can be loaded on time in serial.

Improvement of other sections for adhering Kanban on floor

Seven IEs are facing problem with the cutting sections if cutting dont follow micro-
cut plan then adhering Kanban loading plan become an impossible task. Most IE
believes that finishing section should be improvement for clearance of Kanban
swiftly and in serial. Sometimes inline and end-line checkers cleared the garments
by checking the quality but at the end of the line after finishing when final quality
audit is done then garment is rejected, therefore it takes time to clear the Kanban.
So quality teams should be improved for proper adhering of Kanban system.
186


Cutting Executives (Refer to annexure 2)
Cutting executives is accustomed to Kanban system, they know about the micro-cut
plan and adhere it throughout cutting. The benefits of this system are well known to
them and they know each criteria of making micro-cut plan but they need
improvement in bitting and washing section for executing the plan. If bitting and
washing follow Micro-cut plan then they can able to follow it throughout cutting and
Kanban practices can be successful.

Production Managers (Refer to annexure 1)
The production managers monitor the lines that are assigned to him and
maintaining factory cost is the sole responsibility of them. PM is accustomed to
Kanban system, they know about the micro-cut plan, Kanban loading plan and
cards and monitor daily the practices adhered in the line. The benefits of this
system are well known to them and they know how to execute the micro-cut plan as
well as Kanban loading plan. The obstacles in the line for not adhering the Kanban
practices is same as industrial engineers and according to them if it is not resolved
then adhering Kanban in the line become a difficult task.

Finishing and Packing Supervisors (Refer to annexure 4)
The finishing and packing supervisor works hand-to-hand for proper completion of
order as required by the buyer. Both the supervisors monitor the lines that are
assigned to them and their responsibilities are till sealing of cartons. Supervisors
knew the Kanban system and they know about the packing list and Kanban loading
plan and cards and monitor daily the practices adhered in the line. The benefits of
this system are well known to them and they know how to execute the packing list.
The obstacles in the line for not adhering the Kanban practices is that if loading
doesnt happens as Kanban loading plan then they cant follow packing list. For
them if batch supervisors and PM load cut panels to the batch according to plan
then they can adhere Kanban practices.
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Conclusions
This case study has the proof of advantages when applying Kanban to the garment
production floor. Due to increased customer expectations and severe global
competition, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. (Knits) strives to increase the performance and
to produce with best product and service quality. Under these considerations, the
management has implemented Lean manufacturing techniques to improve the
process environment with reasonable investment. In this paper, the effectiveness of
Kanban practices is demonstrated in systematic manner with the help of various
physical Kanban applications.

Even though, the complete success of the application of Kanban in the extensive
run depends on close understanding between the management and shop floor
executives. Effective management information systems are required for instilling
proper organizational values and continuous improvement programs. The
sustainability of Kanban tool depends by lowering the differences that each shop
floor executives has in its attitude. The normal thing is to do by taking into
consideration and the characteristics of each executive and the respective
measures should be taken to make the practices of Kanban tool successful.
Proposals for Modification

PROPOSAL 1
Designing and implementation of Visual Board

Visual Boards is requirement on the production floor for instant make out of running
production in each line. It helps to know manpower available, style number running
each line, WIP, per hour production. If there is any decrease in above parameters
then problems can be found out related to declining of the parameters. The
solutions can be provided by shop floor executives after discussing with the
management at that instant. Therefore, a visual board is much need on the floor to
analyze the floor parameters without observing the data on various production
books.
A little modification of visual board is done to know the production as well as
Kanban performance on daily basis. To identify the running Kanban production
managers and Kanban auditors has to go through Kanban books of each line,
though this visual board the executives can analyze the Kanban flow of every line
and decision making will be swift.
PROPOSAL 2
Kanban Stickers

In the Kanban system, a colour piece of paper is stick to the card which has data
regarding style number, Kanban Number, Colour of the style and quantities. In
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. Used different number of Kanban stickers from one process
to another and feeding helper confuse with the two stickers and so resolve this kind
of issue, a new sticker is proposed.

188

Kanban new Sticker
PROPOSAL 3
Kanban Books

In the Kanban system, two books are preserved to maintain the daily records of
Kanban flow and also helps in accountability of garments. That book includes Style
number, Kanban Number, Colour of the style and quantities. The Feeding helpers
take time to fill up the books and due to work load on the production floor the books
are not maintained on daily basis. Therefore, a proposal has been given to reduce
those two books into one so that feeding helper generously fills the books
efficiently.

PROPOSAL 4
Lay Record

The records of daily laying, cutting, time of laying and cutting, manpower in laying
and cutting are preserved in that lay record. As the bitting process is involved
before cutting and records can be easily manipulated. Therefore to eradicate those
manipulations a new lay record sheet has been proposed.

189

WORK INSTRUCTION
Pre-Production Activities
Style allocation to the factory by Central Planning
Creation of line plan by factory planner giving details of each PO, Colour and
Size Variants(e.g. Messy / Petite)
Packing list and Carton Tracker creation by Packing In-charge and approval
by PPC
Micro-cut plan
It is an advanced form of the Minusing Book used in cutting. In this, what has to be
cut is planned at early stage so that the dependency for the plan can be removed
INITIAL FIELD ENTRIES
Item #
PO #
Colour
Country
Priority
MARKER PLAN
WIDTH/Dia
MARKER
PLAN S M L XL XXL
NO OF
PCS
Consumption
Kg
20 M-1 2

2 4 0.212
20 M-2 2

2

4 0.212
20 M-3

2

2

4 0.212
20 M-4

2 2

4 0.212
20 M-5

4

4 0.212

CUT PLAN
Only the marker plan and number of lays are entered for each lay
Other parameters are calculated automatically
With each lay plan, the number of pieces and the fabric consumption is
updated
190

The input and output box will be used for the material in and material out in
the different departments like fabric stores, bitting, washing, cutting
Who When Why Update
Frequency
Planner At line plan stage To set the priority Once for each
style
Bitting While bitting For proper feeding
to cutting
Daily
Washing During Washing of any
style
To feed the lines as
per the plan
Daily
Cutting Before bitting / cutting
and follow-up of cutting
For better clarity of
cutting plan
Once for creating
plan and then
daily during
cutting

Micro Cut Plan
INPUT Lay
No
Marker
No.
Size Cons
kg
DIA No.of
bits
No.
of
Ways
No.
of
Pcs
Fabric
required
Total
Required
Kg
OUTPUT
1 M-1 S 0.212 20 77 2 154 32.6 65.3
XXL 2 154 32.6
2 M-3 M 0.212 20 77 2 154 32.6 65.3
XL 2 154 32.6
3 M-4 M 0.212 20 77 2 154 32.6 65.3
L 2 154 32.6
4 M-5 L 0.212 20 77 4 308 65.3 65.3


5 M-1 S 0.212 20 54 2 108 22.9 45.8
XXL 2 108 22.9


6 M-3 M 0.212 20 77 2 154 32.6 65.3
XL 2 154 32.6


7 M-4 M 0.212 20 54 2 108 22.9 45.8
L 2 108 22.9
191

8 M-5 L 0.212 20 77 4 308 65.3 65.3


9 M-3 M 0.212 20 77 2 154 32.6 65.3
XL 2 154 32.6


10 M-3 M 0.212 20 30 2 60 12.7 25.4
XL 2 60 12.7
11 M-5 L 0.212 20 42 4 168 35.6 35.6

KEY POINTS
In the software, the cutting plan is made as per priority before the cutting is
started
The same plan has to be given to fabric stores, bitting, washing and cutting.
Each process is followed as per the microcut plan
Since each micro-cut plan number is linked to the specific marker to be used,
the consumption is calculated automatically
On daily basis the lay record and the micro-cut plan has to be tallied
Once this is implemented, the cutting production will be reported as per
micro-cut plan number. This will help in reporting the number of pieces and
fabric utilization at one place
By this method, we can avoid erroneous cutting production entry and fabric
utilization can be tracked properly. Also the excess cutting of one size can be
avoided
After the trial of the software, it will be linked to the roll-wise bar-coding from
stores for accountability of fabric from stores till cut panel and reconciliation
Micro-Cut Plan and Kanban Plan
Cutting Manager / In-charge will make the Micro-Cut Plan based on the
packing list and style folder
The Micro-Cut Plan should be created in a way that the ratio in the carton
can be completed in minimum number of lays using the available markers
Based on the Micro-Cut Plan and the Kanban Plan has to be created by
Cutting Manager / In-charge
Factory Manager has to review the Micro-Cut Plan and Kanban Plan and
after modifications (if required) has to approve it.
The approved Micro-Cut Plan and Kanban Plan has to be sent to Bitting,
Washing, Printing, Embroidery, Production Manager, Finishing Managers
and Floor IEs by the Cutting department

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Bitting & Washing

Bitting has to be done as per Micro-Cut Plan in the same serial keeping the
number of bits as per the plan
After bitting each Micro-Cut Plan, the same has to be updated in the lay slip
by marking the rows with Highlighter value add?
The bits have to be sent to Washing in bundled form with details of Item, PO
# and Micro-Cut Plan #
The plastic sacks should be used to store the bits and to send to Washing
The end bits should not be included in the Micro-Cut Plan. They have to be
sent separately but the same has to be updated in the sheet and
consumption checked
Washing has to wash the bits in the multiples of Micro-Cut plan i.e. in one
machine, only the multiples of the Micro-Cut plan has to be loaded. Half
Micro-Cut Plans should not be mixed
After drying of the bits, the bits have to be wrapped in plastic sacks as per
the Micro-Cut plan and has to be dispatched in the same way with details of
Item, PO and Micro-Cut Plan #


193

CUTTING

The bits received from washing should be stored in cutting supermarket as
per the Micro-Cut Plan and the same has to be updated on the Kanban
Dashboard with the Blue Kanban Card
At any moment, a minimum of 3 Blue Kanban has to be kept ready in the
fabric supermarket. The Blue Kanban to be ready on the board
If the minimum level is not available, the coordinator has to contact bitting
and washing to get the fabric on time
On receipt of requirement for fabric from the lines, the fabric (in bundled
form) will be dispatched to the cutting table by cutting coordinator(s)
immediately
Cutting table to have a maximum WIP of 2 Blue Kanban for cutting and 1 for
auditing
If the WIP level drops, the requirement for fabric has to be given to
supermarket
Once the audit of one lay is over, the next Blue Kanban has to be issued
from fabric supermarket to the cutting table
If any specific diameter of fabric is not available, then the next Micro-Cut
Plan # has to be cut till the required fabric is received. On receipt of the
fabric, the pending Micro-Cuts have to be cut on priority
In-case of non-panel wash styles/fabric, the cutting has to be done as per
Micro-Cut Plan from the rolls and in the same serial as mentioned in the plan
If two rolls of fabric are used in the same lay, the lays from the 2 rolls have to
be separated by a sheet of paper to avoid shade mix-up
After cutting, the cutting has to be checked-passed and bundled as per
Kanban Plan
If the cut audit is failed, then re-cut of the defective panels has to be done
If any defective panel is found in the cut bundles, the same panel has to be
re-cut and replaced before loading
The consumption of the recutting has to be recorded along with consumption
details
If the style is having process like printing or embroidery, the bundles have to
be sorted out as per Kanban Plan after receipt of the panels from the
process centers
In-case of any rejection in printing/embroidery, the panels have to be
replaced before loading in the line. For this, recutting has to be done on
receipt of defect piece/information and the same has to be sent to the
process centers on the same day. The process centers should give back the
pieces within 12 hours of the receipt of panels
The ready to load Kanban have to be bundled and kept in Loading Area. At
any moment, minimum of 1 and maximum of 3 Kanban should be ready to
be loaded
If the minimum inventory is not met, the same has to be communicated to
cutting
A daily Kanban MIS to be sent to concerned people at the end of the day
giving details of the cleared and loaded Kanban in each line

194

KANBAN SOP FROM FABRIC TO CTPAT
1. Order allocation by central planning to the factory.
2. Preparation of Line plan by the Factory planner.
3. Order follow up by the concerned PPC executive on Fabric flow, trims
availability, PPE & PCD meet up.
4. Receival & issue of the style folder along with sample to the floor.
5. Packing list preparation by the packing in charge and confirmation of the
same by PPC.
6. Preparation of Micro cut plan based on packing list & style folder by.
7. Following up of the micro cut plan in bitting & respective floor cutting sections
through cutting incharge by Mr. Lokesh
8. Preparation of Kanban plan & Carton tracker by floor execution person
based on the micro cut plan. Kanban size not to exceed 90pcs.
9. Loading as per the Kanban plan in ratio/solid as required.
10. Confirming on the availability of trims & accessories upto cartons with the
PPC for issuing colour code in Kanban cards by floor execution person
11. Biting starts as per the micro cut plan & updation in the sheet & lay slip.
12. Sending the bits of washing with identification of tags for lot wise & size wise.
13. Receival of washed bits from washing section & Bit segregation lot wise &
size wise.
14. Preparation of Blue Kanban card for the bundled washed bits.
15. Displaying of the Kanban cards in the Biting section to indicate the washed
bits availability for cutting.
16. Issue of the bits to the floor cutting section along with the Blue Kanban card
and updating them in the register.
17. As per the serial mentioned in the micro cut plan, cutting starts & updation in
the sheet.
18. Numbering/ Sorting & Bundling of the Cut panels as per the Kanban plan.
19. Preparation of White/Pink Kanban card based on the Kanban plan.
20. Storing the Kanban in bundle form in the supermarket & displaying the card
in the dashboard to indicate feeding availability for sewing lines.
21. Issue of Kanban to the batch & updating the same in the Kanban loading
book (supermarket person), Line loading Book (Feeding helper) & Carton
tracker sheet (Supermarket person).
195

22. Preparing buffer Kanban in the supermarket style wise/ size wise in case of
replenishment for garment rejections/ re cutting. Buffer-Kanban should not
exceed 5 per batch.
23. If in case of rejections/ re cutting, the panels (or) garments are replaced from
the cutting section by issuing the buffer Kanban after returning the damage
piece.
24. Number of Kanban in a line will be decided on the following basis:
Number of workstations * 3 piece per workstation
One Kanban at loading point
2 Kanban at the end of line for audit
In case of value addition process style 2 extra Kanban will be given apart
from the above.
25. Kanban Audit as per AQL norms by the auditor.
26. White Kanban garments will be sent to CTPAT. Pink Kanban garments will
be sent to Hold Area/ Warehouse.
27. Sealing of the Kanban card after the receival at the appropriate location.
28. Updation of the closed Kanban in the carton tracker sheet at CTPAT.
29. Returning the Kanban to the supermarket after updating in the Line loading
book & Kanban Loading book.
30. Kanban reconciliation at the end of the day with the loading books.

196

SUPERMARKET

A manufacturing supermarket (or market location) is, for a factory process, what
a retail supermarket is for the customer. The customers draw products from the
'shelves' as needed and this can be detected by the supplier who then initiates
a replenishment of that item. It was the observation that this 'way of working' could
be transferred from retail to manufacturing that is one of the cornerstones of
the Toyota Production System (TPS).

History
In the 1950s Toyota sent teams to the United States to learn how they achieved
mass-production. However, the Toyota Delegation first got inspiration for their
production system at an American Supermarket (a Piggly Wiggly, to be precise).
They saw the virtue in the supermarket only reordering and restocking goods once
theyd been bought by customers.
In a supermarket (like the TPS) customers (processes) buy what they need when
they need it. Since the system is self-service the sales effort (materials
management) is reduced. The shelves are refilled as products are sold (parts
withdrawn) on the assumption that what has sold will sell again which makes it easy
to see how much has been used and to avoid overstocking. The most important
feature of a supermarket system is that stocking is triggered by actual demand. In
the TPS this signal triggers the 'pull' system of production.

Implementation
Market locations are appropriate where there is a desire to communicate customer
pull up the supply chain. The aim of the 'market' is to send single unit consumption
signals back up the supply chain so that a demand leveling effect occurs. Just as in
a supermarket it is possible for someone to decide to cater for a party of 300 from
the supermarket so it is possible to decide to suddenly fill ten trolleys and send
massively distorting signals up those same pathways. Thus the 'market location'
can be used as a sort of isolator between actual demand and how supply would like
demand to be, an isolator between batch demand spikes and the up upstream
supply process.
For example, if the market were positioned at the loading bay, then it will receive
'spikes' of demand whenever a trolley comes in to be loaded. Since, in general, one
knows in advance when trolley will arrive and what they will require to be loaded
onto them, it is possible to spread that demand spike over a chosen period before
the trolley actually arrives. It is possible to do this by designating a location, say a
marked floor area, to be the 'virtual' trolley and moving items from the market to the
'virtual trolley' smoothly over the chosen period prior to the load onto the actual
trolley commencing. Smoothly here means that for each item its 'loading' is evenly
spread across the period. For regular shipments this period might start the moment
197

the last shipment in that schedule departs the loading bay. This has four key
impacts:


198

1. Loading movements rise, which is the reason often given for not doing this
'virtual' trolley loading;
2. Demand evenness (Mura) increases which allows stock reductions and
exposes new issues to be resolved;
3. Any last minute searching for items to load is eliminated since before the real
trolley need to be loaded the 'virtual' trolley will have completed its loading;
4. Any potential shortages that may affect the shipment can be exposed
earlier by the 'stock out' in the market location. This is true because the
'virtual' trolley loading sequence will be constructed to fit with the supply
process tempo.
This logic can, obviously, be applied upstream of any batch process and not just
deliveries to another plant. It is a workaround for the fact that the batch process
hasn't been made to flow yet. It therefore has some costs but the benefits in terms
of reducing the three wastes should outweigh these.
Toyota uses this technique and demands it of their suppliers in order to generate
focus on the supply issues it uncovers. They then demand the preparation of loads
for more frequent 'virtual' trolley than will actually appear in order to raise this
pressure (see frequent deliveries).
At low stocking levels for some items the 'market location' can require Just in
Sequence supply rather than Just in Time.
In any supermarket, whenever a product is picked by the customer, it is
simultaneously replenished by the supermarket personnel. The personnel is not
simply pushing inventory onto the shelf, nor is ordering anything from the suppliers,
but just replenishing the products as and when required by the customer, so that it
doesnt dry out. The processes are scheduled in a manner that it is the process
replenishing the product instead of a personnel. This also requires careful leveling
and Kanban space planning to keep required checks and balances, and a visual
tool to accentuate pull. Drawing a parallel to the garment industry, a supermarket
is created between any two connected processes, where one process needs goods
from the previous stage.



199

SUPERMARKET IN SHAHI
The main objective of the Supermarket here is to home deliver the bits to cutting
table for achieving Just in Time Production (JIT). To maintain WIP, accountability
and to lessen the time consumption are also important objectives.
PROCESS FLOW OF SUPERMARKET


Bits recieved from washing
section as per micro cut plan
Bits kept in the alloted racks of
respected production lines.
Minimum 3 kanban bundles
kept ready in super market for
each line.
Preparing of lay record and
kanban card by minusing
person
Updation of kanban dashboard
as per bits alloted to respective
racks.
Delivery of Bits to the respective
cutting table on requirement by
coordinator with lay record.
200

Results

The outcomes from the research according to the pre-set project objectives are
reviewed in this chapter. It clarifies the outcomes are useful and helpful and why the
future research is designed in that way.

Fulfillment of project objectives
By reviewing the project objectives, it could perceive that:
The objective of the research project is to do an overall analysis and evaluation of
the Kanban implementation at Shahi Exports Private Limited (Knits), Bengaluru
from both on theoretical and practical perspective.
To cooperate with these objectives, some outcomes are also expected to be
delivered:
Reported theoretical explanation according to Kanban
Reported analysis and evaluation of Kanban
The sustaining of Kanban is evaluated through case study
Proposals on visual board, Kanban stickers, Kanban Books and Lay
records were suggested

By doing this research project, so far the expected outcomes are completed in
various degrees. The outcomes are explained in detail as following:

Audit reports
The audit reports of August will show the gradual improvement of every floors which
are adhering Kanban. The audit reports of floor B, floor C and floor D is given below
and the line performance is also given, which will help us to analyze the
improvement in each lines.
Theoretical Study
The theoretical study of Kanban has been finished. It is reported in the theoretical
framework part. It provided a image of the problems which is on the way in
achieving the desired performance of Kanban and the solutions are also guided in
this research project.

Kanban Analysis and Evaluation
The Kanban analysis and evaluation is the core part of this research, which is
presented in chapter four. The analysis result is delivered by 5W1H analysis tool,
assistant with a case study on adaptability survey. The 5W1H analysis summarizes
what Kanban does, points out the problems hidden in the system, abstracts what
Kanban could benefit Shahi Exports and highlights the problems facing by the
executives in implementing the Kanban practices.

Scope
With the development of Kanban implementation, more feedbacks would come out.
The future research could focus on collecting the feedback from each Kanban
component as well the whole Kanban system and evaluating the pros and cons for
201

continuous improvement. If performance of Kanban is improved then it can shift to
next level i.e. Electonic-Kanban.
E-kanban system gives to the company and to their suppliers the tools for meeting
the demands driving value and performance throughout the supply chain. Even
Toyota, the creator of the Kanban system has adapted E-Kanban system for
sending external pulling signals to distant suppliers.
The advantages of an electronic Kanban system are listed:

Removes the problem of lost cards
The demand need is delivered right time
Time and effort needed for cards handling is minimized
Fast and effective optimization of kanban cards
Minimizes the material shortages
Improves the supply chain transparency
Helps to analyze the supplier efficiency


202

CONCLUSION
The Indian garment industries try to increase productivity at lower cost and to
produce with best product and service quality. The effective usage of Kanban tool is
improving the practices that can help us to struggle with existing garment industry.
Even though, the complete success of the application of Kanban in the extensive
run depends on close understanding between the management and shop floor
executives. Effective management information systems are required for installing
proper organizational values and continuous improvement programs. If these
management principles are fully integrated with shop floor principles, then Kanban
system can be applied efficiently to attain the maximum output. In this condition,
this research project report doesnt aim to get the completed, mature outcomes.
Like this Kanban project, all the outcomes are underway as well. The benefits of the
outcomes are to get staff in Shahi Exports some fresh thinking which is different
from the way they always think. From this point of view, all the outcomes are
acceptable and useful.

As has been implied in the paper, the first necessary condition for a sustainable
Kanban practices implementation is stability. It provides a tool that works i.e. it
remains valid and keeps the plant pumping out the right products with minimum
effort and requisite quality, on time, to meet delivery schedules despite tight
schedule, absenteeism, overtime.

On the other side of the coin, all the outcomes needs to be improved and updated
together with the Kanban implementing process. This leads to the following
discussion about the future research.




203






ANNEXURE

204

A QUESTIONNAIRE ON KANBAN FOR PRODUCTION MANAGERS

Name:-.......................................................................
Designation:-..............................................................
Floor:-........................................................................

1) What is Kanban?

a) Visual Card
b) Sticker
c) Register
(d) All of the above

2) Is Kanban helps in maintaining WIP?

a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

.....................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

3) Is productivity decreases while adhering Kanban? Please explain with reasons

a) Yes
b) No

.................................................................................................................................

4) Do you think that adhering Kanban can achieve costing?

a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................

5) Is Kanban helpful?

a) Yes, what are the benefits?
b) No please explain.
.....................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

6) What are the difficulties you are facing while adhering 100% Kanban? Please
Explain

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................
205

7) What are the constraints in clearing the Kanban in serial? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................

8) How and when do you refill the rejected quantity?

.................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................

9) Why alteration is not done in priority? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................

10) What are the problems behind re-cutting the piece and loading in the line?
Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................

11) Is cutting helps in Kanban?

a) Yes
b) No, What else you required which is need to be done?

.................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................

12) Is finishing helps in clearing Kanban?

a) Yes
b) No, What else you required which is need to be done?

.................................................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................
13) What are the reasons that display Kanban card doesn't match with Kanban
Plan?

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

14) What are the reasons that you are still using DC when Kanban is there before
loading cut parts to the batch?

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

206

A QUESTIONNAIRE ON KANBAN FOR CUTTING MANAGER AND CUTTING
EXECUTIVES

Name:-.......................................................................
Designation:-..............................................................
Floor:-........................................................................

1) What is Kanban?
a) Visual Card
b) Sticker
c) Register
(d) All of the above

2) Is Kanban helps in maintaining WIP?
a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

.....................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

3) What is Micro-Cut Plan?

.................................................................................................................................

4) How do you follow daily cutting plan? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................

5) What is the difference between normal cutting plan and Micro-cut Plan?

.................................................................................................................................

6) Do you follow Micro-Cut plan in cutting?

a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

.....................................................................................................................................

7) If you follow Micro-cut plan, which method is better and why?
.................................................................................................................................

8) Do you know how to make a Micro-cut Plan?

.................................................................................................................................


207

9) What are the points you consider while making Micro-cut Plan? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................

10) What are the problems you are facing in making Micro-cut Plan? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................

11) Do you review each Micro-cut plan for each style from Factory Manager?

.....................................................................................................................................

12) How do you handle re-cutting? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................

13) Do you load incomplete Kanban to batch if there is rejection of panels after
printing/embroidery occurs and why?

.................................................................................................................................

14) How many WIP do you keep before loading to the batch?

.................................................................................................................................

15) What are the reasons behind not displaying Kanban cards on cutting table?
Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................

208

A QUESTIONNAIRE ON KANBAN FOR INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERS

Name:-.......................................................................
Floor:-........................................................................

1) What is Kanban?
a) Visual Card
b) Sticker
c) Register
d) All of the above

2) Is Kanban helps in maintaining WIP?
a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

............................................................................................................
.....................................................................................................................................

3) Is productivity decreases while adhering Kanban? Please explain with reasons
a) Yes
b) No

.................................................................................................................................

4) Do you think that adhering Kanban can achieve costing?
a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain
..........................................................................................

5) What is the difference between normal production system and Kanban system?
.................................................................................................................................

6) What are the constraints in clearing the Kanban in serial? Please Explain.

.................................................................................................................................

7) What are the difficulties you are facing while adhering 100% Kanban? Please
Explain.

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

8) Is Kanban helpful? If yes, what are the benefits you can think? Please Explain.

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

209

9) Which sections do you think needs improvement for clearing Kanban? Please
Explain.

.................................................................................................................................

10) What are the reasons behind not displaying Kanban cards on cutting table?
Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

11) What are the reasons that display Kanban card doesn't match with Kanban
Plan? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

14) Is labour absenteeism affecting you to follow Kanban? If Yes, What do you think
need to be done for improvement?

.................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

12) Do you load incomplete Kanban to batch if there is rejection of panels after
printing/embroidery occurs and why?

.................................................................................................................................

13) How and when do you refill the rejected quantity?

.................................................................................................................................

210

A QUESTIONNAIRE ON KANBAN FOR FINISHING AND PACKING

Name:-.......................................................................
Designation: - ..........................................................
Floor:-........................................................................
1) What is Kanban?

a) Visual Card
b) Sticker
c) Register
d) All of the above

2) Is Kanban helps in maintaining WIP?
a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

...................................................................................................................................
.................................................................................................................................

3) Is batch supervisors co-operate with you in clearing the pieces?
a) Yes
b) No
If No, Please Explain

......................................................................................
................................................................................................................................
.

4) What are the constraints in adhering packing list?
.................................................................................................................................

5) Can you able to pack as per packing list at the end of line if Kanban is loaded in
ratio? Please Explain.

.................................................................................................................................

6) Is Kanban loading makes the shipment easy in packing? Please Explain

.................................................................................................................................
211

7) If there is alteration of pieces occur, whether you send the pieces to hold area?
Please Explain.
.................................................................................................................................

8) Do rejected garments accept in hold area?
.................................................................................................................................

9) If any stains occur in garments, how much time you take to collect those
garments from spot wash?
.................................................................................................................................

10) What are the constraints in clearing the Kanban in serial? Please Explain.
.................................................................................................................................

212

REFERENCES

Books

1. David J.Lu (1989). Kanban Just-in Time at Toyota, Japan Management
Association.
2. K.Liker, J.(2004). The Toyota Way 14 Management Priniciples from Worlds
Greatest Manufacturer. McGraw-Hill.
3. Spear Steven and Bowen H.(1999). Decoding the DNA of the Toyota Production
System, Harvard Business Review.

Online Resources

1. Linden-Reed, J. (2010). Kanban101-what is Kanban. Retrieved from Kanban101:
http://www.Kanban101.com
2. Abilla, P. (2006,). Littles Law for Production Development. Retrieved from
shmula: http://www.shmula.com/263/littles-law-for-product-development
3. http://mhlnews.com/industrial-technology/mhm_imp_3950/
4. http://stc.fs.cvut.cz/History/2008/Sbornik/D1/Marikova_Olga_12138.pdf