ap Designation: D 434 - 95 ‘oe Grater (0 knertan aoa Senta fuera tne ck SST Sarto pyre ATL ‘Standard Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam" ‘Ts standard i ised under be fixed designation D434; the number immediately fowing the designation indicates the yea of orginal adoption or, the case of rein the year of last eision. A number in puratheeidcats he Year Ot reapproval Ax ‘Superiptepilon (incl an editorial chang sae he la evan o eaprova ‘This method has been approved fr use by agencies of the Department of Deere and for tig inthe DoD Index of Speticaton and Standards 1, Scope 1.1 This test method covers the determination of the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns, or ‘warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard searn. 1.2 The test method is not intended for upholstery fabrics. 2. Referenced Documents 2. ASTM Standards: DG Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles? 1D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles? 1D 1682 Test Methods for Breaking Load and Elongation of Textile Fabrics? 1D 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing? 1D 1905 Test Method for Dimensional Changes in Laun- dering of Woven or Knitted Textiles? D272 Test Method for Effects of Drycteaning on Perma- nence of Durable Water-Repellent Finish? 2.2 Federal Standard: 75ia Stitch Seam and Stitching* 3. Terminology 3.1 Definitions: 3.1.1 resistance to yarn slippage n_—the force required to separate the parts ofa standard seam assembly by a specified amount 3.2 For definitions of other teatile terms used in this method, refer to Terminology D 123. 4, Summary of Test Method 4.1 The load-elongation curve of the fabric is superim- posed over a load-elongation curve of the same fabric with @ standard seam sewn parallel to the yarns being tested. Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at which a slippage of a specified size is seen. 5. Significance and Use 5.1 This method is considered satisfactory for acceptance "his tet mata i under te juritction of ASTM Commitee Ds13 on “ents and isthe diet responsiblity of Sobcommitee DI359 oa Fabric Text Methods, Gene “Coren ei approved Api 15, 1995. Published August 1958. Originally published D434 = 36T, Lat previous etn D434 78 2 dal Book ASTM Standards, Vo} 2 Disonteued See 1977 anna Book of ASTM Standards, Par 32. + avaiable from Standediation Documents Order Desk. Bie Sexton D, 700 Robbins Ave, Piiphia, PA 191118086, Ata: NPODS. testing because the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing. In case of disagreement arising from differences in values reported by the purchaser and the seller whea using this test method for acceptance testing, the statistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the pur- cchaser and the laboratory of the seller should be determined with each comparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawn from one sample of material of the type being evaluated, 3.2 This test method is used as an indication of the tendency of yarns to slip at a seam. Such slippage results in garment failure at a seam, which is not readily repairable by reseaming. 5.3 The force at which the load-clongation curve of the fabric with the seam is a predetermined distance greater than the load-elongation curve of the fabric without a seam is reported as the pounds-force per inch (newions per metre) resistance to yarn slippage. Generally, a Yin, (6.4-mm) separation is used, but for some fabrics a smaller opening is preferred, If desired, the force to affect complete separation ‘may be obtained by continuing the load-elongation curve until complete separation is obtained. A 1-Ibf (4.45-N) compensation is deducted to allow for elongation of the 5.4 Currently interlaboratory tests are being made 10 determine accuracy and precision, This method can also be used to evaluate the correlation between the CRE and CRI testing machines. 6. Apparatus 6.1 Tensile Testing Machine (CRT) (Preferred) —CRT (pendulum) type with an autographic recorder conforming to the requirements of Method D 76. The machine shall be equipped with clamps having frontjaws 1 in. (25 mm) in ‘width and backjaws 2 in, (50 mm) or more in width, except as otherwise provided. The clamps shall be set in 3 in. (8.0 ‘mm) apart. The speed of the lower clamp shall be 12 + % in. (300 + 10 mm)/min, Nore 1—in comparing results with those ffom another laboratory, both laboratories should use the same typeof tensile testing machine, ot ‘ave established the relationship between tet results obtained using a CRT machine and those obtained using a CRE machine when testing fabrics ofthe type being evaluated, 6.2 Tensile Testing Machine (CRE)—A constant-rate- ofextension type machine equivalent to the CRT machine specified in 6.1. 6.3 Dividers, one pair,@ 0434 v Load, bf us, Matic tin 25 0m ain 5 mm tt Aa5N She zw tow tN iio e23N So 8878 FIG. 1 Slippage Chart 6.4 Metal Rule, graduated in Yas-in. or I-mm subdivie 6.5 Metal Clamp, auxiliary, 6-07 (170 g), at feast 4 in. (102 mm) in width. 7. Number of Specimens 7.1 For preliminary testing, two specimens are required, cone with the long dimension parallel to the warp and one with the long dimension parallel to the filling. Preliminary tests are not necessary if the direction with the lower resistance to yarn slippage is known. 7.2 For final testing, five specimens in the direction of the sreater slippage, are required, ‘Nore 2—Fabrics may be tested in either their original condition or ser refurbishing on both. Refurbish in accordance with the applicable laundering. procedure in Test. Method D 1905 or the drycleaning procedure in Test Method 02721, Sew seams after refurbishing the fabri sample, except when prior agreement requires seams to be sewn before refurbishing. Postcured permanent-press fabrics need to be seamed, then cured before testing, 8. Preparation of Specimen 8.1 Cuta piece of fabric 4 by 14 in. (100 by 350 mm) with, ‘the long direction parallel to the filling yarns, if the warp ‘yarns slide over the filling yarns, Ir'the filling yams slide over ‘the warp yarns the long dimension is parallel to the warp yarns. [Nore 3—In the instructions for the preparation ofa specimen, itis assumed, fr simplicity, that the specimen isto be used for determining the slippage of warp yams, that is the specimen will be subjected to & pall in line with the direction of the filing. In case the specimen is to be prepared for determining slippage of the fling on the warp, itis only necessary to substitute “warp” for “filling” in the instructions. 8.2 Fold the specimen 4 in. (100 mm) from one end with the fold parallel to the short direction of the fabric. Sew a seam ‘4 in. (13 mm) from the fold using a needle approxi- ‘mately 0.030 in. (0.76 mm) in diameter (measured at the eye), No. 00 3-cord (approximately 39 tex) white mercerized cotton or approximately 36 tex polyester cotton core thread, 14 Mb stitches to the inch (570 per metre) and a plain lockstiteh. Nove 4—The plain focksttch shall conform to Type No. 30! of the Federal Sndard for Stiches; Seams; and Stitching (Standard No. 7518) ‘of the General Services Administration. This ype of stitch shall be Formed of to threads. A ip of one thread shall be entered by the mass supply of the other thread. The loop of the first thread then shall be ‘Grav into the material to the extent that the concatenation is approximately halfvay between the two surfaces of the material. These operations are repeated to form a sequence of stitches. 8.3 Be careful to make the stitches under uniform tension and to sew the seam parallel to the warp yarns. Movement of the thread should not be restricted by knotting or bbackstitching at the end of the seam, After seaming, cut the fold open. [NOTE $—If the fabric being tested is not suitable for the seam assembly s described in 82, a suitable substitute seam assembly may be ‘used. No statement of precision apples inthis instance 8.4 Draw a line 1.5 in, (38 mm) from the edge parallel to the long direction to aid in placement of the specimen in the testing machine. 9. Conditioning 9.1. Condition all specimens being tested, except those for preliminary tests, as directed in Practice D 1776. 10, Procedure 10.1 Elongation of Seamed Fabric: 10.1.1 Place the end of the specimen closest to the seam squarely in the upper clamps, being careful that the drawn fine is next to the edge ofthe front jaw and thatthe seam is midway between the upper and lower clamps, Place the specimen in the lower clamp and attach the auxiliary clamp 1 obtain tension of the specimen. Nore 6—To achieve uniform and qual tension it has been found ‘pl to tse an aaa clamp weighing 6 a2 (70) and having anvils at ast 4 in (100 mas) fn with. Attach this avery clamp to the Specimen paral othe yas being tested anda a point ower than the iower stamp of the testing machine, When corectalliment and tension ae achieved, tighten the lower elarp and remove the auxiliary champ. 10.1.2 Place the pen of the recording device on the zero ordinate and any convenient abscissa. Star the machine and record the load-elongation curve of the fabric with seam, Nowe 7= desired, the fore to tet complete separation may be obained by continuing the oad-longation curve of the seamed fabric ‘ntl compete separation obtained Remove the specimen fom the lamps an return the clamps to bet starting poston. 10.2 Elongation of Base Fabric: 10.2.1 Using the same specimen, place the end of the specimen farthest from the seam squarely in the upper clamp ‘being careful that the drawn line is next to the edge of the frontjaw, and grip securely. Place the specimen in the lower clamp and attach the auxiliary clamp to obtain equal tension ‘on the specimen. When correct alignment and tension are achieved, tighten the lower clamp and remove the auxiliary clamp. 10.2.2 Place the pen of the recording device on the zer0 ordinate and on the same abscissa that was used to record theDP D434 load-longation curve for the fabric with the seam. Start the machine and record the load-elongation curve for the fabric without the seam, beyond the point where the seam broke. 10.3 Repeat the steps outlined in 10.1 and 10.2 for each specimen to be tested. Start the recording device on a different abscissa for each specimen. 11. Evaluation 111 To measure Yin, (6.4-mm) slippage, set the dividers at one quarter the distance of chart travel for 1 in. (25 mm) of lower jaw travel. Gear-driven recorders may exhibit odd ratios of actual magnification, Nore 8: Example—Set dividers at %2 in. (7 mn) fora 1.125:1 ratio; at in. (64 rar) fora I: ratio; at Ye in, (14.3 sam) for 82.250: ratio, 11.2. Add to this the compensation, which is the distance between the load-elongation curves of the specimen with and without the seam at the I-Ibf (4.45-N) ordinate (point B 10 C, Fig. 1). TI3 With the dividers set as in 11,2, follow the load- elongation curve for the fabric without seam with one point of the divider until the other point of the divider meets the load-elongation curve of the fabric with seam and both points rest on the same ordinate. Mark the ordinate. 11.4 Record the force in pounds-force (or newtons) to the nearest 0.5 Ibf (2 N) at this ordinate, Subtract the I-lbr (4.45-N) compensation and record the result as resistance to slippage. If the Ioad-clongation curves do not exhibit 2 separation equal to the predetermined distance plus compen- sation, record the seam strength if less than the capacity of the testing machine, and note that the fabric or the thread breaks, or both; or record that the seam strength exceeds the capacity of the testing machine with no yarn slippage. 11.5 Repeat 11.1 to 11.4 for the additional four pairs of Joad-elongation curves developed in 10.1 and 10.2. 12, Calculation 12.1 Determine the average resistance to slippage 10 the nearest 0.5 Ibf (2 N). 13. Report 13.1 State that the specimens were tested a8 directed in ASTM Method D434. Describe the material or product sampled and the method of sampling used. 13.2 Report the following information: 13.2.1 Type of the machine used, 13.2.2 Number of specimens tested, 13.23 Description of seam (show thread distribution, seam type, stitches per inch (or pet metre) and needle size if the report is not “standard seam assembly”), 13.2.4 Washing or drycleaning procedures used, if any, and whether refurbished before or after seam sewn, 13.2.5 Seam sewn in warp or filling directions, 13.26 Size of seam opening used to measure resistance to slippage, and 13.2.7 Resistance to stippage to the nearest 0.5 Ibf(2N) or ‘other end point, for example, fabric breaks, thread breaks, exceeds capacity of testing machine. 14. Precision and Bias 14.1 Precision—The precision of this method is being established. 14.2 Bias—No justifiable statement can be made on the accuracy of Method D 434 for testing the slippage of yarns in ‘woven fabrics, since the true value of the property cannot be established by an accepted referee method, 15, Keywords 15.1 seam strength; yarn; woven fabric The Anerican Soc ar Testing at Mates ako no positon respecting he vay cf ary pate igh axseded in connection wh any Rom merbored in ths andar Users of tne tadard ae expresy advsed tht caters Ofte Wally any sue ‘alent hts, end the rik of ntiegemert of such hs, ee entely thet own responsi. This standard is subject fo rovin at ary time by the response tecnica comms and must be revlwed evar vo yore and ‘rat roe, aia reapronedo aitarown, Your omar ae ited ott fr revision othe sander ro acral eaere land shouldbe acessed fo AST Headquarters. You commer Wl rocoNe cared carsieain ala meeting ofthe response ‘echnical conte, whieh you may atone you lea that yur cnments Rave a recaved wf Pawrig Yu shoud make YOU ‘us kon othe ASTM Conte on Sandercs, 1916 Race St, Piece, PA 19708.