Ngàn Năm Áo Mũ

Ngn Nm o M
Bn quyn tc phm Trn Quang c, 2013

nh v tranh minh ha do tc gi chp, v v su tp.
Xut bn theo hp ng s dng tc phm gia Cng ty Vn ha v Truyn thng
Nh Nam v tc gi Trn Quang c, 2013
Bn quyn tc phm c bo h. Mi hnh thc xut bn, sao chp, phn phi di dng
in n hoc vn bn in t, c bit l vic pht tn trn mng Internet m khng c s cho
php bng vn bn ca Nh xut bn l vi phm php lut v lm tn hi n quyn li ca
nh xut bn v tc gi. Khng ng h, khuyn khch nhng hnh vi vi phm bn quyn.
Ch mua bn bn in hp php.
Bin mc trn xut bn phm ca Th vin Quc gia Vit Nam

Trn Quang c
Ngn nm o m / Trn Quang c. - H. : Th gii ; Cng ty Vn ho v Truyn thng
Nh Nam, 2013. - 397tr. : nh, tranh ; 25cm
1. Trang phc truyn thng 2. Vit Nam
391.009597 - dc14
TGH0007p-CIP
LI CM N
LI TA 1
Ngn nm o m chc chn khng th hon thnh sm nu khng
nc ta, trc nay khi mun tm hiu vn ha c ca dn tc,
c s gip nhit tnh t pha nhng ngi bn, ngi ng nghip
nht l v cch n mc, ngi ta khng bit phi trng vo u. Cc sch
ca chng ti.
c nh Lch triu hin chng hay cc sch Khm nh, Hi in i khi
Nay nhn dp cun sch c ra mt bn c, chng ti xin cm

n cc anh ch Trnh Bch, L Tip, Philippe Trng, Nguyn Ln
c nhc n mt vi kiu y phc, m mo, nhng cng ch s lc, v

thng khng c hnh nh dn chng.
Cng, Nguyn Nh an Huyn, Nomura Chosho, Nguyn Quang
Cc tc phm trn c vit vi mc ch p dng cho ngi ng
Duy, Nguyn Nht Anh, Nguyn Thnh t, Thn Tun, Nguyn
thi, ch khng phi l s liu hay ti liu vn ha cho i sau. Hn na,
Th Bch, Nguyn Th Dung, T Lan, Trn Vn Quyn, Nguyn Pht
trong thi i ca cc c tc gia , khi nhng kiu loi trang phc c
H Giang, Chihiro Motohiro, H Nh , l nhng ngi sao chp,
nhc n trong sch ca h vn cn thng dng, tn gi h lit k vn l
cung cp t liu cho chng ti. c bit, L Tip cn l ngi gip
cc vt dng i thng, th vic gii thch v chng l khng cn thit.
chng ti thc hin mt s tranh v phc dng.
T d nh ngy nay c my ai cn phi c ging gii mi bit th no
Chng ti xin chn thnh cm n anh inh Thanh Hiu, Trnh

Bch, on nh Dng, nhng ngi tn tnh hiu nh bn tho,
l ci o di hay chic nn l. Nhng tng t, vi nm na y phn

ng gii tr s khng mng tng ni ci o i cn nh th no.
bc Lai Thy, bc Dng Trung Quc, anh Nguyn Mnh Tin, ch
Vn ha trang phc truyn thng Vit Nam b mt du tch su
Quch Hin, anh ng Hi Quang nhng ngi c nhiu s quan
m nht khi nn vn ha Ty phng do ngi Php a vo c p
tm v gip chng ti trong vic tm kim cc ngun ti tr.
t trit ln x hi Vit Nam. Tip theo l s i thay ca lch s v
Chng ti xin trn trng cm n cc anh Nguyn Hu Chin,
thc h. Nhng bin ng x hi y khin cho ngy nay khng ai cn
Nguyn Hng Minh, Nguyn Quang Huy cng cng ty PMC, cng ty BFS
bit ng b ta ngy xa n mc, sinh sng nh th no. V khi cn ti
ti tr cho cng trnh nghin cu ny.
hin li n mc ca ngi Vit trong qu kh, ngi ta sng tc mt
Chng ti xin gi li tri n ti ban lnh o cng cc anh ch phng
cch ty tin.
Tu th, phng Ch bn thuc Cng ty Vn ha v Truyn thng Nh
Phim nh l phng tin truyn b vn ha cho gii tr hu hiu v
Nam, nhng ngi to nhiu iu kin cho s ra i cun sch ny.
trc tip, nhng hin nay nhiu b phim hay v kch ti hin lch s li
Chng ti c bit cm n ch Nguyn Hong Diu Thy, bin tp vin
c phc trang truyn thng khc nhau. Ri gn y khi s giao lu vn
chnh ca cun sch, ch Mai Th Mai, ngi trc tip trnh by cun
ha tr nn d dng th trang phc truyn thng Vit Nam trong phim
sch, v anh T Quc K Nam, ha s thit k ba sch.
nh v trn sn khu li mang m du n ca phim nh Trung Quc.

y l t hy dit nguy him hn ht cho kin thc v lch s vn ha
H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013

Trn Quang c
o m truyn thng ca gii tr Vit Nam.
LI TA 2
Thin Quan ngha trong Kinh L c cu: Phm ngi m c th

V th vic ra i ca quyn sch Ngn nm o m l mt s cu ri
may mn. C l y l mt trong nhng tp ti liu vn ha, lch s trang
phc c nghin cu su v c bin son k nht Vit Nam, nu
khng ni l quc t, cho n nay. Tc gi vi vn ling ngoi ng v c
vn rt cao b ra nhiu nm ln ln, tm ti cc th vin cng nh
dn gian Vit Nam v cc nc, nht l Trung Quc, c c nhng
ti liu qu gi v chnh xc c kt nn tc phm ny.
Khi c i Vit s k ton th hay Lch triu hin chng loi ch
chng hn, ci inh t cn, hay m ch inh ph bin sut my th
k trong x hi Vit Nam xa lm in u c gi ngy nay. Hay thc
mc v kiu ct tc mi phn ca cc i L, Trn, L, hoc hng bo
ca cc hong Vit trc thin triu. V rt nhiu nhng loi o, m
na. Tt c c tc gi gii thch vi minh chng khoa hc v minh ha
chnh xc trong tp nghin cu Ngn nm o m ny.
Xin chn thnh cm n tc gi Trn Quang c v b cng sc
kh nhc v th gi qu bu nhng xng ng ca anh trong vic bin
son quyn sch dy gi tr ny.
l ngi cho ng ngha l nh l ngha, m m u ca l ngha l

dung th c oan chnh, nhan sc c trang nghim, li ni c
cung thun. Dung th oan chnh, nhan sc trang nghim, li ni cung
thun th sau l ngha mi y , chnh o vua ti, thn o cha
con, ha o ln nh. o vua ti chnh, o cha con thn, o ln nh
ha ri sau l ngha mi lp. Cho nn i m ri sau trang phc mi y
, trang phc y ri sau dung th mi oan chnh, nhan sc mi
trang nghim, li ni mi cung thun. Cho nn ni rng l i m l m
u ca l, v th thnh vng thi c rt coi trng l i m.
C nhn cho rng trang phc l mt phn quan trng, thm ch l
m u ca l, cng tc l vn minh, con ngi ng ngha l con
ngi, khc vi cm th.
Nc ta vn xng l nc vn hin, cc chnh th qun ch lch
triu u c kht vng mun xy dng ci Nam mt h thng in
chng ch khng km (v tn) Hoa H (Trung Quc), v hu cng
t ho tng l chn l nhc y quan s ty, thanh danh vn vt s
(ni t hi m o l nhc, vn vt thanh danh). Vt i sao di, ngy nay
nhn li, sinh sau nghn nm m mun ni chuyn nghn nm trc,
H Ni, ngy 19.2.2013

Trnh Bch
cng khng phi d dng. Gi y mun kho li y quan ca c nhn,

ng hu khng thn nh Tch m vong t, th vn hin khng , vn
vt cng tha, ch bit trng vo nhng ghi chp ca cc bc tin nhn
nh L Qu n, Phan Huy Ch, Phm nh H v.v. hay chnh s, hi
in cc vng triu, nhng ch ngha k khu, danh vt xa cch, cng
tht kh m hnh dung tng tng ra c.
Trn Quang c tin sinh dnh tm huyt my nm truy kho
m o nghn nm. ng c nh a ti xem bn tho. L ngi c hc
cht t ch nho, thch truy tm c in, c cun sch ca ng a vo
MC LC
PHM L................................................. 13
T LUN................................................. 15
th gii y quan vn vt ca c nhn, vi ti c sc hp dn l thng. Vi

mt t duy mch lc, lp lun cht ch, t liu phong ph, kt hp th
tch vi hnh, nh tng, sch v vi thc t, tham chiu c trc thi
gian, khng gian, cun sch c th xem l gp phn minh trngcho
in chng vn vt ca nc Vit ta, v chc hn s l t liu cn thit
cho nhiu ngnh, nhiu lnh vc.
Trn qun thng minh vn sn tnh tri, c o to cn c, trong
iu kin mi c nhiu thun li, kt hp vi tm huyt ca mt ngi
hiu c nn lm c iu ngi trc mun m cha lm c.
l iu m ti thnh tm tn thn v chia vui cng tc gi, cn
ni l vit Ta th ti u dm!
H Ni, thng Mnh xun nm Qu T 2013
inh Thanh Hiu
TNG QUAN..........................................19
I. TNG QUAN TRANG PHC CUNG
NH VIT NAM.................................... 19
1. Nhng t tng nh hng n vn
ha trang phc cung nh Vit Nam..... 19
1.1. T tng vng.......................... 19
1.2. Quan nim Hoa di........................... 23
2. Lc s trang phc cung nh Vit
Nam......................................................... 34
II. TNG QUAN TRANG PHC DN
GIAN VIT NAM..................................... 40
Ph lc. Bin di lun.............................. 45
CHNH VN.......................................... 49
Chng I. TRANG PHC THI L........ 49
I. Trang phc hong .......................... 53
1. L phc................................................ 53
2. Thng phc....................................... 60
3. Tin phc............................................ 66
II. Trang phc b quan........................... 71
1. L phc................................................ 71
2. Triu phc........................................... 72
3. Thng phc....................................... 75
III. Trang phc qun i........................ 82
IV. Trang phc dn gian......................... 87
1. Y phc.................................................. 87
2. Kiu tc................................................ 91
Ph lc 1. Mt s ghi chp lin quan ti
trang phc Chim Thnh t th k XI n
th k XV.................................................. 96
Ph lc 2. Mt s ghi chp v hnh nh
lin quan ti v nhc Vit Nam thi L
Trn......................................................... 99
Chng II. TRANG PHC THI TRN.....

............................................................... 101
I. Trang phc hong ........................ 106
1. Triu phc ........................................ 106
2. Thng phc .................................... 107
3. Tin phc . ........................................ 110
II. Trang phc b quan......................... 112
1. L phc ............................................. 112
2. Thng phc .................................... 118
*i nt v bc ha Trc Lm i s xut
sn ..................................................... 128
III. Trang phc qun i...................... 133
IV. Trang phc dn gian....................... 135
1. Y phc ............................................... 135
2. Kiu tc.............................................. 137
Ph kho. Ci cch quan phc nm 1396
v trang phc thi H.......................... 141
Ph lc 1. Trang phc c tang v quan
MC LC
nim v hai mu en trng ................. 147

Ph lc 2. S lng tht la v qut cng
sang nh Minh t nm 1416 n 1423......
............................................................... 149
Ph lc 3. Bn hiu chnh phn Chng
phc trong sch An Nam ch lc.......150
Chng III. TRANG PHC THI L...153

Trang phc thi L s...........................160
I. Trang phc hong ........................161
1. L phc - Triu phc........................161
2. Thng phc ....................................165
II. Trang phc b quan.........................169
1. Cng phc - Triu phc...................171
2. Thng phc.....................................175
3. Trang phc qun i........................181
Ph kho. Trang phc nh Mc..........183

1. Triu phc ........................................202
2. Thng phc - Th phc .................211
3. Tin phc . ........................................224
III. Trang phc hu cung.....................228
1. L phc..............................................229
2. Tin phc..........................................232
IV. Trang phc qun i .....................234
V. Trang phc dn gian........................240
1. Y phc ...............................................240
2. Kiu tc .............................................246
Ph kho 1. Ci cch y phc ng Trong
nm 1744 S ra i v qu trnh ph
cp ca o di nm thn......................258
Chng IV. TRANG PHC THI TY

SN........................................................267
I. Trang phc cung nh.......................267
II. Trang phc dn gian........................272
MC LC
4. Qun phc ........................................295

1. L phc .............................................297
2. Triu phc ........................................307
3. Thng phc ....................................322
III. Trang phc hu cung.....................335
1. Triu phc ........................................335
2. Thng phc ....................................342
IV. Trang phc qun i .....................345
V. Trang phc dn gian........................348
1. Y phc ...............................................348
2. Kiu tc .............................................351
LI KT.................................................355
Nguyn nm 1804
TIU T IN TRANG PHC VIT NAM
PH LC............................................ 357
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu L
Trung Hng nm 1661
Trung Hng nm 1721
Trang phc thi L Trung Hng..........187

I. Trang phc vua cha........................188
1. Triu phc ........................................189
2. T phc .............................................192
3. Thng phc ....................................195
4. Tin phc . ........................................198
Chng V. TRANG PHC THI

NGUYN...............................................275
I. Trang phc hong ........................278
1. L phc .............................................278
2. Triu phc ........................................288
3. Thng phc ....................................293
Trung Hng nm 1725

Bng quy ch Th phc chu cha ca b
quan triu L Trung Hng nm 1721
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu
Nguyn nm 1804
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu
Nguyn nm 1845
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca mt s v hong
t, hong thn, tn tht triu Nguyn nm
1845
Bng quy ch Thng phc ca b quan triu
TH MC SCH TRCH DN
PHM L
Trong cun sch ny, tn cc sch trch dn

c in nghing, khng vit tt, ngoi tr i Vit
s k ton th, Khm nh Vit s thng gim cng
mc, Lch triu hin chng loi ch, Khm nh i
Nam hi in s l ln lt c gi tt l Ton th,
Cng mc, Loi ch v Hi in. Bulletin des Amis
du Vieux Hu (Nhng ngi bn c Hu) chng
ti vn s dng tn vit tt thng dng l BAVH. Cc
thng tin trong Ton th, Cng mc, chng ti ch dn nm.
Ti phn cc ch chng ti nht lot ch tn sch v v tr
thng tin trch dn. Bn c c th tra cc thng tin y lin
quan n tn tc gi, nh xut bn v nm xut bn ti phn
th mc trch dn cui sch.
Vi cc t liu Hn vn c, chng ti trc tip dch ra
quc vn, khng ch km m Hn Vit trong ni dung chnh,
nguyn vn s c ch dn y ti phn cc ch bn
c quan tm tin tham kho. Quy cch ch dn nh sau: (Tn
nc) Tn sch - Phn mc. V d: (Triu) Chi Phong tin sinh
tp - Q.8 - An Nam quc s thn xng ha vn p lc - Hu,
tc l phn Hu trong mc An Nam quc s thn xng ha
vn p lc nm trong Quyn 8 sch Chi Phong tin sinh tp
ca Triu Tin - Hn Quc.
Mt s bn t liu c sao chp c chng ti khai
thc ti cc trang web nh cadal.zju.edu.cn (Trung M
bch vn th), archive.org, record.museum.
kyushu-u.ac.jp (Bo tng i hc Kyushu, Nht
Bn), yoksa.aks.ac.kr/main.jsp (Trung tm Thng
tin Nghin cu Hn Quc, Hc vin Nghin cu
Hn Quc) v.v. Bn c quan tm c th tham
kho trc tip trn cc trang web ny.
T LUN
S thiu khuyt s liu - hin vt l mt trong nhng tr ngi ln,

gy nhiu kh khn cho cc nh nghin cu khi ln tm din mo trang
phc c ca ngi Vit Nam. Ngay Phan Huy Ch (1782-1840) trong
Loi ch cng phi tha nhn c nhiu kiu m ng khng th kho
c. Tuy thin v kho quy ch trang phc vua quan triu Hu L, Loi
ch vn c coi l tp chuyn kho trang phc cc triu i u tin ti
Vit Nam.
Tham kho Lch triu hin chng loi ch v Khm nh i Nam
Hi in s l, Trng Quc Dng (1797 - 1864) hon thnh phn kho
quy ch o mo cung nh t triu Tin L cho ti triu Nguyn, ghi li
trong Cng h k vn. Nm 1915, Phan K Bnh vi Vit Nam phong tc,
nm 1938, o Duy Anh vi Vit Nam vn ha s cng, bc u vch
ra nhng nt phc ha chung cho trang phc dn gian Vit Nam. Nm
1970, Nht Thanh vi t l qu thi, Toan nh vi Np c con ngi
Vit Nam tip tc t bt khc t li n vn dn gian theo tp qun thi
Nguyn v.v. Hn hai chc nm tr li y xut hin thm mt s nh
nghin cu trang phc nh on Th Tnh (Tm hiu trang phc Vit
Nam - 1988, Trang phc Vit Nam - 2006, Trang phc Thng Long H
Ni - 2010), Ng c Thnh (Trang phc c truyn cc dn tc Vit Nam
- 1994), Trnh Quang V (Lch s trang phc cc triu i phong kin Vit
Nam - 2005, Trang phc triu L Trnh - 2008) v.v. vi s tip cn rng
hn ti lch s trang phc Vit.
Thit ngh, hiu c lch s t tng, vn ha v m thut Vit
Nam, nghin cu trang phc c chnh l mt ngnh v cng quan trng,
cn ti s tip cn mang tnh khoa hc, lin ngnh, gn vi nhng chng
l y , xc thc. Nhng cun sch kho cu gn y tuy c nhng
ng gp nht nh, nhng vn tn ti mt s hn ch, nh thng
xuyn s dng cch dn chng hm h kiu s c ghi, s xa chp
li rng, tng truyn rng m khng ch r ngun dn, xut x; vic
nghin cu nhiu khi ch dng li vic cng b mt s t liu lin quan,
thiu thao tc kho cu, phn tch c th; vic xc nh, nh danh cc
16
dng o m hu ht mang nng tnh t bin, c on. Mt khc, t liu
thng ng thn dng hnh long m. (Kin vn tiu lc). i Nam thc
Hn Nm c trch dn phn ln l t cc bn dch ting Vit sn c,
lc cn cho bit vo thi Minh Mng, Vn miu tnh Ninh Bnh c tng
trong khi chnh nhng bn dch ny rt hn ch v mt s lng, ng
Khng T v bn v thnh ca o Nho u i m Min, mc o Cn;
thi tn ti nhiu ch dch khng chun xc, nht l trong cc phn
vua Minh Mng v cc quan u cho rng Cn Min l trang phc ca
cp ti trang phc.
bc vng gi, cch n mc th hin trn tng nh vy l tht l, nn h
Trong cun sch ny, chng ti khng i su kho cu phng
lnh em chn. Nhng dn chng ny khin chng ti mun lu rng,
thc ch tc vi vc, thu tha m ch yu lm r kiu dng, quy ch
khng th khinh sut da vo cc pho tng c tc dng vo triu i
ca cc loi o m tng c s dng ph bin trong cung nh v dn
sau ny c on trang phc ca triu i trc y, nh trng hp
gian Vit Nam t thi L n thi Nguyn. i vi vn ha cung nh,
mt s ngi nghin cu khi kho trang phc ca vua L Thi T (974-
s phn chia giai tng x hi c quy nh nghim ngt, ch o m
1028) da vo pho tng cha Kin S mang m th php dn gian
do cng c lut l ring, nh Phan Huy Ch khng nh: o tr
cui thi Hu L th k XVIII.
nc khng g ln bng L, L l lm r tn ti [] Quy ch o m, nghi
Cc d liu m t trang phc ca vua quan Vit Nam thi phong
v l phn bit trn di. (Loi ch L nghi ch) Lu nay, trong i
kin hu ht l t liu Hn vn, nu khng c kin thc nht nh trong
chng v trong mt b phn gii nghin cu tn ti mt cm quan rng
lnh vc c trang, khi phin dch ngi dch d li nhiu sai lc. Khng
triu nh Vit Nam m cht dn gian, tn ti lng lo, khc vi triu
th ph nhn, bn dch ca tin nhn cng c nhng sai st khin nhiu
nh Trung Quc. D nhin, vn ha cung nh Vit Nam khng qu
ngi nghin cu v sau b sai theo. Nh bn dch Ton th lu hnh
mc phc tp, nhiu kh, v tng triu i khc nhau, tnh tn ti, bo
hin nay dch o Xng Hc l o lng hc, m Tht Lng Quan l m
th cng c th hin khng ng u, song r rng cung nh lun l
by cu, m tr nh cnh phng bng vng (kim phng x) l cnh
ni duy tr mt l li vn ha nghim cn, khng i khi, linh hot nh
m thu phng vng v.v. Bn dch An Nam ch lc dch phng tm
vn ha dn gian. Nhn nhn r s khu bit giai cp ny, nhng quy ch
khc lnh l tim vung trng o cong, m ng Cn l khn tu v.v.
phn bit cao thp, sang hn trong trang phc thi phong kin - qun
Trn thc t, Xng Hc, Lng Quan, phng tm khc lnh, phng
ch cng s c soi t.
x, ng Cn u l tn ring ca cc loi o, m, phc sc. Vy nn
Cng y, i vi t liu tranh tng, chng ti tin hnh kho
khi kho cu, chng ti c gng truy nguyn v ngun, tm ra t liu gc
st thn trng da trn tnh ng i ca hin vt, kt hp hin vt vi
lm c s, din dch nhng t liu mt cch chun xc, nhm a ra
nhng m t trong th tch tng quan. Ly v d, sau nhng bin ng
nhng kt qu nghin cu ng tin cy.
to ln din ra vo cui thi Trn - H, c bit l sau 20 nm thuc Minh,
Do t liu khan him, trong cun sch ny, chng ti ch c th
tuyt i a s tng th vua quan thi L - Trn u b ph hy.
bc u kho cu trang phc cung nh Vit Nam t triu L ti triu
Cc pho tng c th thy hin nay phn ln c to dng vo th k
Nguyn (1009 - 1945), nhng thng tin lin quan n trang phc cung
XVIII, XIX, vi m tp i m Phc u hoc m Xung Thin, mc o
nh trc thi L s c trnh by ti phn Tng quan. Chng ti bit
c trn nh B T. Trong khi quy ch B T ln u tin c p dng
vic nghin cu cha th dng li y, nhng hn ch v mt chuyn
vo triu nh i Vit vo nm 1471, thi vua L Thnh Tng; hn na
mn, v t liu lun cn c b khuyt. Trong tng lai c th c nhng
mt trong nhng quy nh tc tng thi Cnh Hng (1767) cng c
kin mi, nhng pht hin mi gip cng c hoc bc b kt lun no
L Qu n ghi r: V thn no d vo hng ti linh th vn nh c,
ca chng ti, d theo hng no chng ti vn trn trng coi l
cn by ti cc triu i trc c d phong phc thn, u theo l mi
s ng gp tch cc cho nghin cu ny.
[] M cc v thn i, u dng m Phc u [] cm dng hnh dng

m Xung Thin chp cnh [] B t, trung ng thn dng hnh k ln,
17
TNG QUAN
tin kho cu v trnh by, chng ti
phn trang phc thi phong kin - qun ch
thnh hai loi hnh: cung nh v dn gian.
Trong , trang phc cung nh, giai on
phong kin - qun ch, vi t cch l vn hin
o m ca mt quc gia c lp, tri qua
nhng vn ng c th, mang mt din
mo va c nt tng ng, va c im d
bit so vi trang phc ca triu nh cc nc
Trung Quc, Triu Tin(1), Nht Bn.
I. TNG QUAN TRANG PHC
CUNG NH VIT NAM
Nghin cu vn ha cung nh Vit Nam,

khng th khng xt n hai lung t tng
gy nh hng su m v mang tnh quyt
nh, l t tng vng v quan nim
Hoa di. Din mo vn ha trang phc ca
cung nh Vit Nam cng khng nm ngoi
u h: 1. u h trong cung
nh triu Nguyn Vit Nam; 2.
Minh Tuyn Tng hnh lc
- Trung Quc; 3. Lm h u
h - Triu Tin. 4. Ngy xun
chi u h ti cha Sensoji
Nht Bn.
nhng nh hng ny.

1. Nhng t tng nh hng n vn
ha trang phc cung nh Vit Nam

1.1. T tng vng
Bt ngun t thc c lp, t ch,

chng chi n cng trc nhng chnh sch
cai tr bo tn, ngi Vit vng ng bng sng Hng c th coi l mt

trong nhng cng ng lm lon nhiu nht trong thi cn ni thuc
1. Chng ti dng tn ny ch nc Triu Tin thi k phong kin thng nht t nm 1910 tr v trc, khi
cha b Nht Bn chim ng v cha b chia tch thnh CHDCND Triu Tin v Hn Quc nh hin nay.
20
ch thng tr ca Trung Quc(1). Bt k quan nim ca ngi phng Bc
ca quan nh Tng, Trnh Tng: H L t sau Cng
cho rng, tri ch c mt thin t, thin h ch c mt hong , song
Un truyn n thi Ho Sm ngy nay, thy tm i.
khng t th lnh nc Vit mi khi ginh c c lp, ginh quyn
Tn cc i l Nht, l Cn, l Dng, l Thin, l Long
lm ch ci t phng Nam u xng , d khi chm trn thin triu
u c ln vt b trn. Triu nh coi nc y xa ni
vn nhn mnh xng l b ti: L B xng nm 544, Mai Thc Loan
gc b, khng thm ln la so o(1); cng c khi li tr
xng nm 713, v nm 968, inh B Lnh t xng i Thng Minh
thnh mt trong nhng ci c san bng nc Vit,
hong Phan Huy Ch s d coi nc Vit t thi inh L m nc

i chi vi Trung Hoa , bi tnh t thi im ny tr i, v th ca mt
(2)
m nh im l cuc xm lc ca nh Minh trong

nhng nm u th k XV. Vic khng tun theo
t nc c lp c khng nh, t tng b ch tri Nam ht
chnh sc ca triu nh (lch nh Minh), tim vt i
sc sng r nh chnh li chc ca Nam Vit Vng inh Lin nhn gi
quc hiu thnh i Ngu, xng lo tn hiu, i nin
trn ct kinh trng: Chc i Thng Minh hong mi lm b ch tri

Nam, gi yn ngi bu, mi trn vng tri Nam, th l khung ph
nghip. Vic y cng nh li nhn xt ca quan Trung Quc thi Minh
(3)
l L Vn Phng: Nht Tn t lm nc y [] ly quc hiu i

Vit. T y v sau, con chu h L cho ti h Trn, L, Mc u gim theo
vt c, tim xng hiu.
21
hiu Nguyn Thnh(2), mt trong hai mi ti c nh

Minh gn cho cha con h H, trn thc t cng chnh
l qun l ca triu nh i Vit. Nhng sau bao cng
sc vo cng cuc gio ha hng rn dy An Nam
phi ngoan ngon nghe li, ca nh Minh vn
Gi chu ra thi
hon ton sp , bi vi chin thng ca L Li hai Nguyn (BAVH).
(4)
mi nm sau, t ct li l t ct An Nam, nhn
Vic vua nc Vit xng ,

ng ngha vi vic ng vua Vit
dn li l nhn dn An Nam, phong tc o m li c ng nh xa,
c hng mi c quyn, nghi l
nn np mi ging li c sng nh c(3), c bit, theo L Vn Phng,
dnh cho thin t, khng km vua
L Li khng ngh n vic thnh tht hi li, b ngoi thn phc,
Trung Hoa. Thi ca triu nh
nhng bn trong li rp tm ln vt, tim hiu, ci nguyn i chi
phng Bc i vi vic ln vt,
ngang hng vi Trung Quc.(4)
khng king d(5) ca triu nh

i Vit l nhiu khi nh phi
khut mt trng coi nh ghi nhn
Chnh v vy, cng d hiu khi vua cha Vit Nam lun mun mnh
Rng thi L khai qut ti
hong thnh Thng Long.
ngang hng, thm ch vt tri so vi cc v vua ti c ca Trung Hoa,

m khng phi vua cha ca mt quc gia no khc. S so snh ny
khi l s so b v ti nng nh L Chiu Hong khen chng, Trn Cnh:
1. S lm lon ny c khng t quan li phng Bc a tin v thin triu nh Thi th Giao Ch, Hp
Ph thi Ng l Tit Tng (?-243) dng s vit: (Giao Ch) ni rng him tr, d lm lon, kh tr (An
Nam ch lc. Tr.118. Nguyn vn: ); Th s Giao Chu thi Ty Tn l o
Hong cng vit: Dn chu ny thch gy ha lon. (An Nam ch lc. Tr.121. Nguyn vn:
); n tn thi Ng i, vua Nam Hn l Lu Nghim vn phn nn: Dn Giao Ch a lm lon.
(An Nam ch lc. Tr.279. Nguyn vn: )
2. (Vit) Loi ch - Vn tch ch - T. Nguyn vn:
3. Vn khc Hn Nm. Tp 1. Tr.64, 66. Nguyn vn: []
4. (Trung) Vit kiu th - Tng t - S 162. Tr.666. Nguyn vn:
5. T dng ca Ch Nhn Hoch, ngi thi Thanh. (Trung) Kin h d tp - Q.1 - An Nam th lc. Nguyn
vn: (Nc An Nam cch Trung
Quc my ngn dm, mang ting gi gn thanh gio, nhng k thc t lm hong mt nc. t nin
hiu, nh quy ch u khng king d)
Vn cht v, thc th cch qun t hin nhn, uy nghi ng hong,

c t cht thnh thn vn v, d Hn Cao T, ng Thi Tng cng
1. (Trung) Trnh Khai Dng tp tr - Q.6 - An Nam k lc. Tr.45. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc - Q.60 - Mc ngy t Mi thng 10 nm Vnh Lc th t.
Nguyn vn: Ton th chp nin
hiu thi H Qu Ly l Thnh Nguyn
3. (Vit) Lam Sn thc lc - Ph lc li bnh. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Vit kiu th - T. Tr.664. Nguyn vn: ,
22
khng hn c(1), hay s thn V Qunh khen vua L Thnh Tng:
dng ting Hn c chiu. T chiu c on k ti T cho thnh trit
Quy m xp t, cng nghip trung hng, c th snh vai vi H Thiu
hn Tam hong, c cao hn Ng ; coi Vn vng, V vng khng
Khang, ni gt c Chu Tuyn Vng, m khinh hn Hn Quang V,

ng Hin Tng l hng di vy(2); khi l s so snh v c nh
vua Trn D Tng khen vua Trn Thi Tng: Sng nghip Vit - ng,
hai Thi Tng/ Kia xng Trinh Qun, ta Nguyn Phong/ Kin Thnh b
git An Sinh sng/ Miu hiu nh nhau, c chng ng ; cng c khi
(3)
ch n gin l s so snh v dng v ca i tai, con mt nh trng
lm php tc, khinh Chu cng, Khng t khng lm bc thy; hy

bng Mnh T l o nho (tay nh nho n trm - TQ ch), Trnh Chu tho
cp nht. Di thnh di tri, khng ngi khng th. Tim quc hiu gi l
i Ngu, trm k nguyn gi l Thiu Thnh. Xng l Lng cung hong
, dm dng nghi l triu nh. Chng phi ch ngang tng ci xa, m
k thc mun chng chi ngang hng cng Trung Quc.(1)
hp Thng th Nguyn Cng Bt ca ngi vua L Nhn Tng: Mt trong
V mt l nghi trang phc, bi vy, cng khng th thua km. Do
m en trng r rng, khc con mt hai ngi Thun ; tai p m vnh
c s nhn ng v in chng, vn hin ca Trung Quc, trong sut
tai di rng, ch ci tai ba l H vng(4) v.v. Vic so b ti nng c
mt thi gian di, cng ging nh Triu Tin, triu nh Vit Nam coi
vi vua cha Trung Hoa trn thc t khng cn l vic lu hnh ni
th ch, vn hin Trung Hoa l ngun tham kho chnh thng. Ch
b trong triu nh i Vit. Triu Tin vng triu thc lc cho bit,
trang phc cung nh Vit Nam m phng ch ca Trung Quc
vo ngy mng 1 thng 5 nm Triu Tin Thi Tng th 7 (nm 1407),
c c s uy nghim, chun mc tng t. Tuy nhin, theo quy lut
quan Ni s nh Minh l Trnh Thng, hnh nhn Phng Cn, mang t
sng to vn ha, li trn tinh thn t ch, ch ng xy dng t nc
chiu bnh nh An Nam n Triu Tin. Ti cung Kyeongbok, s thn
theo m hnh Trung Hoa, triu nh Vit Nam trong hn mt ngn nm
tuyn chiu, sai Jeong Gu () dng ting a phng, Jo Jeong ()
phong kin - qun ch d nhiu ln m phng ch o m, l nhc,

khoa c ca cc triu i Trung Quc, vn lun to nn nhng nt bin
d c o, lm tn thm v uy nghi, sang trng ca vua quan nc Vit.
1.2. Quan nim Hoa di
Ngoi t tng vng, triu nh Vit Nam cn chu nh hng
t mt quan nim, vn trn ngp trong cc kinh in ca Trung Quc,
l quan nim Hoa di. Trc th k XIX, khi cha tr thnh danh t ring
c ch mt chng tc hay mt quc gia c th, cc khi nim Hoa,
H, Trung quc, Trung H, Trung chu v.v. xut hin trong kinh
in thi Xun Thu (770-476 tr.CN) c dng ch vng t, cng c
Chung. Chung Trung Quc thi ng (618-907. Bo tng Giang Ty);

Chung Vit Nam thi L (1009-1225. BTLSVN); Chung Hn Quc thi
Cao Ly (918-1392. Cha i Phc Daeboksa). Chung Nht Bn thi Bnh
An (794-1192. Cha Qun Th m Kanzeonji).
khi ch nhng ngi vn minh trung tm, c l gio, khu bit vi cc
sc dn man, di, nhung, ch bn pha xung quanh. Chin quc sch
gii thch: Trung quc l ni bc tr tu thng minh c tr, ni vn vt

ti nguyn hi t, ni thnh hin trin khai gio ha, ni nhn ngha
c ban b thi hnh, ni thi th, l nhc c s dng, ni ti ngh k
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:, ; , ,

Nhng li khen ny vn c vit bi tay vn thn do Trn Th sp t.
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: , , ,

4. (Vit) Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.392. Nguyn vn: , ;,
1. (Triu) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc Thi Tng thc lc. Mc ngy 1 thng 5 nm Thi Tng t 7.
Nguyn vn: ,,,,,,
,,,[],
;,;,,
,,,
Ton th chp nin hiu thi H Hn Thng l Thiu Thnh.
23
tuyt c trin thi, ni phng xa n quan
nhng ngi hc theo kinh in ca Trung Quc th khng th b coi
ngng, ni man di phng noi theo.
l man di, v bn thn nhng quc gia c l gio tng t cc triu Hn
(1)
24
T quan nim trung tm vn minh,
ng cng u c th c coi l Hoa H, l Trung quc. Hay c th
thnh ca o Nho, Mnh T ch trng
hiu mt cch n gin hn nh hc gi ngi M, Alexander Barton
dng H bin di, em vn minh tin tin
Woodside v chnh khi nim Trung quc c s dng ti Vit Nam
ca trung nguyn truyn b ra xung quanh

nh mt cng cuc khai ha. Tuy nhin, sau
khi tip nhn mt phn vn ha Hn, hp
thu t tng Xun Thu, vua ti cc nc
Vit, Triu, Nht u t nhn l Trung quc,
Mnh T (Thnh miu t
in kho).
(Vit) i Nam Quc m t
v dch cm t Dng H
bin Di l: Dng php
K Ch m i thi mi
(Tr.230), ng thi gii
thch t Hoa di ngha l K
Ch, mi ni chung. (Vit)
Mnh T Quc vn gii
thch gii thch: H l ni
vn minh, c l ngha gio
ha. (Quyn h. Tr. 306).
vo thi Nguyn: Nm 1805, vua Gia Long coi Vit Nam l vng quc
trung tm hay Trung quc. Thut ng ting Hn thng thng c
dng ch Trung Hoa, nhng trong tay ngi Vit, n li tr thnh
mt khi nim tru tng khng c s tham kho a l no. N bin
i thnh mt cm t c kh nng c dng ch bt k vng quc
Trung H, tc ch th ca mt nn vn minh
no c lp nn trn c s nhng nguyn tc kinh in Trung Hoa, khi
cc triu i Hn ng. Asami Keisai (
c gio ha.(1)
c y l gio, vn hin khng thua km
nhn thy xung quanh mnh b bao bc bi nhng k man di khng
), hc gi Nht Bn thi trung i tng
L gii quan nim ca vua ti ngi Vit t nhn t Vit l quc
bn lun v khi nim Trung quc cho bit:
gia vn minh trung tm mi c th l gii c vic vua ti Vit Nam
Nc ti
khng t ln s dng khi nim Trung quc, Trung H, Khu H, Hoa H
(ch Nht Bn)
bit o Xun Thu th
nc ti l ch th. Nu coi nc ti l ch
ch nc mnh. T nh:
th th thin h i nht thng l ng gc
- Ton th vit: Trc y, L Gic trn sang Chim Thnh, ni
nc ti nhn sang cc nc khc, cng
tnh hnh h thc ca Trung quc (1104); i vi nhng ngi ho kit
chnh l tn ch ca Khng T. Khng nm
Trung quc, chng (ch nh Minh) phn nhiu v trao cho quan tc ri
c iu ny m c sch ng th thnh
em v an tr phng Bc (1417); Thng 8, nm 1426, vua L Thi T
ra nhng k sng bi c sch ng (phim ch sch v Trung Quc), ng t
ban d cho c nc vit: Gic cn Trung quc, dn chng cn cha
gc nh ng trng sang soi chiu Nht Bn th lun xim nnh

nh ng v ring dng khi nim di r l gii Nht Bn, hon ton
i ngc li tn ch Xun Thu ca Khng T. Khng T m sinh ra
Nht Bn th s t Nht Bn lp ra tn ch Xun Thu. Hiu nh vy mi
l ngi gii hc sch Xun Thu. Nay c Xun Thu m gi Nht Bn l
di r th khng phi do sch Xun Thu hi n o Nho, m do k khng
gii c Xun Thu hi sch Xun Thu vy. Nh vy, Keisai quan nim
(2)
yn.(2) v.v.
- Thin Tng kha h ng lc ca Trn Thi Tng khi bn v s qu
bu ca thn ngi c on vit: Ngi nay chng bit, li qu vt m
r thn, chng hay thn mnh c ba iu kh gp [] Mt l, trong lc
o ch c ngi l qu [] c k b a xung o a ngc, A tu la, Ng
qu, Sc sinh, khng c lm ngi [] Hai l, c sinh ra lm
ngi nhng li c k sinh ra ni man di, tm th chung sng, nm th
r chn, sang hn ln, trai gi sng chung, chng m gi nhn, chng
1. (Trung) Chin quc sch - Triu sch. Nguyn vn:
2. (Nht) Trung Quc bin. Dn theo i Loan ng vn minh nghin cu hc khan. Q.3. K 2. Tr.96.
Nguyn vn:
nhun gio ha [] Ba l, c sinh ra Trung quc, nhng su cn

khng , bn th chng ton, m ic ngng cm [] tuy trong Hoa
1. Vietnam and the Chinese model. Tr.18-19.
2. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.135. T 14b. Nguyn vn: ; Tr.289. T 1b. Nguyn
vn: ; Tr.307. T 37b. Nguyn vn: bn dch
Vit vn hin nay ch dch l nc ta, trong nc.
25
26
H cng ht nh ngoi hoang d. Nay lm
phi b tho pht. Vit Nam va nm trong h thng nhng nc triu
ngi, c sinh ra Trung quc, li c su
cng ca triu nh Trung Hoa, va thit lp ring mt h thng tng
cn, h chng qu lm sao?
ch - phin thuc i vi cc vng t v quc gia phng Nam. Quan
(1)
- i Vit Lam sn D lng bi (son nm
nim ny c th hin ht sc r rt qua cc t chiu, hch, vn khc
1504) t ti lng vua L Hin Tng (di tch Lam
ghi cng ca vua ti nc Vit trc hoc sau khi tho pht cc tc ngi
Kinh) c on vit: Trung quc vng mnh,
thiu s v cc nc phng Nam, nh:
ngoi di khip hi.
- Bi hch nh ng Ma Sa ca vua L Nhn Tng c on vit:
- T s Mc ng Dung tu ln vua L vo
thng 12 nm 1517 xin git L Qung , i ni:
Tam cng ng thng l rng ct chng tri
t, l tr t yn sinh dn. Nc m khng
c cng thng th tuy l Trung H cng c khc
no di ch. Ngi m khng c cng thng th
tuy mc xim o, cng c khc no cm th.
Trung quc thnh cng,
ngoi di chn ip (i
Vit Lam sn D lng bi
Di tch Lam Kinh. nh:
Trn Quang c).
ch)
(2)
- Bc th cha Trnh Trng gi cho Ton

quyn ng n H Lan ti Batavia (nay l Jakarta)
Trm coi triu h trong bn b u nh con . n ci xa cng mn

lng nhn m quy ph, phng khc cng m ngha m li chu. Nay
tn t trng hn nh ngi ngu xun, ph c ng cha, qun vic tu
cng.(1)
- Thi y Anh V nh L ni: bn man di quy H l ti ca
thn [] Nay cm ch thi mi, chp tay m chu mc hnh; trm cp
dn ven, mt mt m theo hong ha.(2)
- Vn khc Chinh Ai Lao k cng ma nhai ca Nguyn Trung Ngn
trn sn ni Trm Hng (Ngh An) nm 1335 c on vit: Vo thi
hong th su triu Trn nc
nm 1637, c on vit: Nay ta c mong qu
Hong Vit, Thi thng hong
quan tit ch ca qu quc Lan (tc H Lan - TQ
Chng Nghiu Vn Trit c
kt giao vi ta. Trn danh ngha chn chnh, hai nc m bc
tri ban mnh, gi t Trung H,
thng yu, mi n mun i. Vy ct c hoc hai ba tu, hoc hai trm
khp trong bn b, u cng thn
lnh thin x n Trung quc ta, ly lm tin. v.v.

(3)
phc, Ai Lao cn con, dm chng
Phi cng tm nhn nhn rng, vua ti nc Vit trong giai on
vng ha. Nm t Hi, ma thu,
phong kin t ch xy dng ch theo m thc Trung Hoa, ly trt

t Hoa Di lm nn tng. M thc ny coi ci t hong ng tr l trung
tm thin h, tc Trung quc, Trung H, Hoa H. Hong thi hnh n
c, ng thi bo ban, dy d bn ci xung quanh, gi l vng ha,
hong ha. Cc vng bin vin, man di ngng m n c ca thin
Thn chinh Phc L chu o Ct Hn bi vn.

nh Nam Hng, H Ni.
thn chinh soi lnh su qun,

i tun min Ty, th t nc
Chim Thnh, Chn Lp, Xim
La cng t trng man di o Thn, Qu Cm [] u dng phng vt,
triu phi thn phc v n triu cng; nhng k chng i, ng ngnh
tranh nhau nghnh n. Ma ng, ng qun cnh ng C n
1. (Vit) Thin Tng kha h ng lc - Quyn thng - Ph khuyn B tm. Nguyn vn:
[]
[]
[][]
[]
3. (Nht) Iwao Seiichi ."V bc th An Nam gi cho H Lan xin Hi qun H Lan gip . Dn
theo ng phng hc. K 23. Tr.109-118. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []

. ,
2. (Vit) C Vit Quc Thi y L cng thch bi minh t. Dn theo Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.464. Nguyn
vn: []
3. Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp 2. Tr.287. Nguyn vn:
[]
Mt chu, lnh cho cc tng v qun lnh man di tin vo nc y.(3)
27
28
- Vn khc trn vch vng Ty Bc Thn chinh Phc L chu o
b, ko di chc lt, lm nh vy i vi t tin th no, i vi thin
Ct Hn do vua L Thi T ng ch cng c on vi i tng t: Bn
h th no, i vi hu th th no?(1) Cn Matsumiya Kanzan (
di ch l mi ha vng bin cng, t xa c. Bn Hung N thi
), binh php gia Nht Bn th ni: Trm ngh, nc ta t xa vn
Hn, bn t Quyt thi ng, bn man mi Mng L pha Ty nc
hin y, t xng l Trung chu, gi nc kia (ch Trung Quc - TQ
Vit ta cng vy. Va ri chnh tr Trn H suy vi, bn phin thn ngang
ch)
nhin ct c, Ct Hn gi nguyn thi c, a th him tr khng chu
th ch rt l nghim ngt.(2) n thi Nguyn, i Nam thc lc cng
hi ci. Nay ta em qun tin nh, hai qun thy b cng tin, ct mt
nh khng t sch v triu Nguyn gi
trn l dp yn. Nhn vit mt bi th ng lut, khc ln trn ,
ngi Vit l Hn nhn, Hn dn(3),
rn nhng tn t trng man di chng li vng ha i sau.(1)
gi ngi Trung Quc l Thanh nhn,
l Ty phin (phn giu pha Ty - TQ ch). S phn bit trong ngoi,
- T chiu i nh Ai Lao ca vua L Thnh Tng thng 7 nm 1479
m Thanh nh vua Minh Mng tng
cng vit: Bc vng i xa ch ng di ch, phc tng th cu mang
ni, T tin l ngi Mn [] Mn l
bng c, phn li th sm st ra oai [] Trm nay ni cng t tng, gi
di r.(4) Thm ch, nhng ngi phng
c nghip ln, t Trung H, v yn ngoi di [] Hung chi, m dn
Ty nh ngi Php, ngi Anh cng
chn man r ny, t lu nhim mi hi tanh ca loi ch Lo Qua, mun
u tng b vua quan nh Nguyn gi
khi phc cng thng cho tc mi [] . Trong t chiu nh Bn
thng thng l Dng di.
(2)
Man, ng cn vit: Nc nh ta tm thu b ci, thng ng Hoa di .

(3)
Quan nim Hoa di, c kt li c th
Quan nim Hoa di c y ln cao ti Vit Nam, Triu Tin v
thy r nht qua s vic Lang trung L
Nht Bn sau khi triu nh phong kin Trung Hoa do ngi Hn tr v b
Vn Phc sang Thanh, thy ngi Thanh
thay th bi ngi H phng Bc, c bit sau khi ngi Mn lm ch
vit bn ch ln Vit di hi qun ln
Trung Quc, lp nn nh Thanh. Lc ny, ba nc u t nhn l quc
vch tng, ng rt tc gin, trch
gia trung tm, ch th lu gi nn vn minh c phc v mit th gc gc
mng quan Qun bn, nt mt v ging
du mc vn khng c l gio ca tc ngi Mn Mng. cng chnh
ni u rt d, khng chu vo qun, sau
l t tng n cha trong cu phn vn ca Hng o Vng trong D
lnh hnh nhn x nt ch di i ri mi vo, on vit Bin di lun
ch t tng hch vn, sau khi ng k cho tng lnh nhng cu chuyn
trn by. i lc ni: Vit Nam vn hu du ca Thnh Thn
y ngha kh thi Xun Thu: Cc ngi l tng ca Trung quc, phng
Nng, l Hoa, chng phi di vy, o hc noi theo Khng Mnh Trnh
s t trng di r m khng thy cm phn?
V pha Triu Tin, T
Chu, php tun theo Chu Hn ng Tng, khng vn tt tc, vt
gin Jo Kyeong () by t: Nc ta xa nay ni danh thin h bi c
tri nh ngi di. n nh vua Thun sinh ra Ch Phng, Vn Vng
l ngha, c gi vi tn Tiu Trung Hoa, k tha lit thnh, th nc
sinh ra K Chu, ngi i cn chng dm coi vua Thun, Vn Vng
ln mt lng, cung knh cn thn, nay phng s gic H, trm yn tm
l di, hung h dm coi ta l di ?(5)
1. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.425, t 20a, 21a. Nguyn vn:

[][],
3. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.424. T 17b. Nguyn vn:

4. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.206. T 13a. Nguyn vn:
1. (Hn) Triu Tin Nhn T thc lc - Q.32 - Mc Thng 2 nm Bnh T. Tr.8. Nguyn vn:
?
2. (Nht) Tng Cung Quan Sn tp. Dn theo Tng chu bin khn Trung Quc. Tr.137. Nguyn vn:
.
3. Ni dung chi tit ca cch gi ny, bn c c th tham kho cun Vng t Nam B di triu Minh Mng
ca Gs.Ts Choi Byung Wook. Tr.216-219.
4. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Tp 2. Tr.270. Nguyn vn: []
5. (Vit) Quc s di bin Tp h. Mc ngy 10 thng 2 nm Thiu Tr th 1 (1841). Nguyn vn:
(4)
D ch t tng hch vn (Ton th.

Tp IV. Tr.206. T 13a) Vi Trung
quc chi tng, th lp Di t nhi v
phn tm?
29
Xut pht t t tng Hoa
lm ch Trung Quc, gic
di, quy ch trang phc trong
tc, mc o ngn, noi theo
cung nh Vit Nam phn ln
thi c Mn Chu. o m
c tham kho t in chng,
l tc Tng Minh v vy mt
ch ca triu nh Trung
sch.(1) Bi Vn D nhn
Quc, mt trong nhng thc
nh: Triu Thanh hng
o vn minh t trong bi cnh
thi bnh lu ngy [...]
x hi ng thi. K t nm
ring ch o m khng
939, Ng Quyn sau khi xng
i. Tc Mn suy cho cng
vng ln u tin cho m
thiu trang nh [...] T khi
phng quy ch o m ca nh
triu Thanh lm ch Trung
ng th hin qua vic ly mu sc trang phc lm tiu ch phn bit
Quc, bn phng phi
phm trt ca b quan. Tip n, thi Tin L ti thi L u ln lt m
co tc, i y phc. Hai
phng quy ch o mo ca nh Tng, nh du bi cc s kin p dng
trm nm tr li y, tai
ch Triu phc nm 1006 v ch Cng phc nm 1059. Ring vi
mt ngi ta quen c
triu nh nh H, t sau ci cch thi Trn Thun Tng nm 1396 m
[...] khng cn nhn ra kiu
thc cht do H Qu Ly thao tng, triu phc ca vn v b quan li quay
dng Hoa H ngy xa na. S nc ta ti Yn Kinh, i mc phm phc,
v m phng theo ch trang phc ca nh Hn. Cc triu L, Nguyn
c k nhn ra trm ngng m Hoa phong. Nhng bn khng c tr tu,
v sau chu nh hng mnh m t trang phc ca nh Minh, bt ngun
phn nhiu tm tm ci a, thy m Phc u, Vng cn, ai o bn
t ci cch trang phc thi vua L Thi Tng nm 1437, c y mnh
ch tr cho l kiu cch tung cho. Tc r H thay i con ngi ta n
vo khong nhng nm 1471 thi vua L Thnh Tng, v hon b vo
mc phi ta thn nh vy y(2). Tc gi Nam s t k u thi Nguyn
nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng. i vi vi trang phc ca cc triu
cng chp: Thanh Th t ln ngi, t nin hiu Thun Tr, thng nht
i Nguyn, Thanh, vua quan nc Vit thng t ra bi bc, khinh th.
thin h, thay i y phc Trung Quc [] Nc Nam ta y phc vn nh
Nh vi trang phc ca nh Nguyn, vua Trn Minh Tng tng ni r:
xa. Sau ny s nc ta n Yn Kinh, ph lo Trung Quc thy y phc
Ngn ng (ch ngn ng Hn quan phng) khng khc nhau nhiu, nhng o
ca s ta u ri nc mt.(3) Nm 1830, chnh vua Minh Mng ni r:
m khng th ging nhau c.(1) Nguyn Tri nhn xt v khuyn co:
Trm xem sch Hi in ca nc Thanh [] o m triu phc u theo
Ngi Ng (ch ngi Minh) lu ngy nhim thi tc ca ngi Nguyn, tc
thi tc man di, khng phi ch phc sc ca c nhn, nh th li
xa, rng trng, o ngn m tay o di, m xim le lot, lp lp nh l
cng sai tri, khng th lm khun php.(4)
30
o Cn 12 chng, m Min 12 lu, ngc khu.

Vua Khi nh nh Nguyn; Vua Long Hi i Hn
quc.
vy [] khng nn noi theo lm lon quc tc.(2) Cn trang phc ca
31
Mao tit, mt trong nhng nghi trng ca vua quan

phong kin. 1. Mao tit ca nh Minh (Tam ti hi); 2.
Mao tit ca Triu Tin (Triu Tin ng l ); 3. Mao tit
ca quan nh Nguyn Vit Nam (K thut ngi An Nam
Cm c tuyt mao); 4. Mao tit trong cung nh triu
Nguyn (Bu vt triu Nguyn).
i vi trang phc dn gian, trong mt s phu ngi Vit, trang
triu nh Mn Thanh, nm 1696, s thn nh L cho bit ngi Thanh
L Vn Phc lm
chnh s i s sang Yn Kinh nm 1841, ton b bi Bin Di lun c chp trong Chu nguyn tp vnh tho
mang k hiu VHv.1146 Th vin Hn Nm, chng ti cung cp ti phn ph lc sau chng ny.
1. (Vit) Th vn L Trn. Tp 2. Tr.740. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Du hin tng bt. Nguyn vn:[][]
[]
,
3. (Vit) Nam s t k - L Trung Hng - Chn Tng Thun hong . Nguyn vn:
[]
4. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Q.70. Nguyn vn:
phc ca ngi dn cc
ca ta(1); n nhng sc lnh ci i thi tc ca dn man theo thun
nc phng Nam v cc
phong ca ngi Vit din ra lin tip di thi vua Minh Mng, m
sc dn thiu s u b coi
mt trong nhng ni dung quan trng chnh l vic hng ngi man
l qu kch, th thin. Nh
i mc qun o ca ngi Kinh Vit. Nh nm 1829, vua Minh Mng
quan nh Mc l Dng
xung d ban tn h cho cc th lnh ngi man c on vit: i sa
Vn An (1514 - 1591) nhn
i phong tc t phi dn dn, m ng vng gi dy bo no c phn
xt vng T Vinh (Hu):
bit. Ln ny bn th ty y theo v phong ha, mc xim o ca ta,
C ngi ni ting Hu,
nhng nu c cho c tn m khng c h, h phi l ca trm coi mi
mc vy Chm, thi y rt
ngi nh nhau? [...] i i tun phng, phn r h hng, theo lun
qu v th thin, trong
thng, u i n o ln, khin ngy cng nhum gi Hoa phong.(2).
khi dn vng chu c
Nm 1834 ngi Thy X sai s n cng, vua Minh Mng c li d
cch n vn nh Trung Hoa th c coi l khng c g l thng(1).
rng:Thnh nhn dng H bin di, nn ly l ngha dy bo, khin dn
Ng Th Nhm tng c li th th hin nim t ho l bc k lo t
dn i thnh thi Hoa H. Bn thng cho s thn y c b o m trc
Vit, vn o mo chnh t, tht dy thao, eo ngc bi, rt vn minh,
k hn. Hm trm ng in, chun cho s thn y vo triu cng,
rt Hoa. ng vit:
tn mt thy bn h o m chnh t, qu ly thung dung, u hp l tit,
32
1. Nguyn Tri (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 2. Nguyn

Qu Knh (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
M mang c trc sau,

u ring Trung Quc c
May sinh nc Nam,
ng hong thn o mo,
Ch bo ta chng Hoa,
Vit Thng c k lo.(2)
c bit, khc vi cc triu i L - Trn coi Tam gio ng tn m
trong o Pht c v th p o, cc triu i L - Nguyn v sau vi
cc chnh sch c tn Nho thut c nhng ci nhn kht khe, khinh
th i vi phong tc ca cc sc dn phng Nam. Quan nim Hoa Di
lc ny tr nn tiu cc, v l mt trong nhng nguyn nhn chnh thc
trm rt ly lm khen ngi [] Li thng cho chnh s ly h l Lnh,

vn dng tn c l Duyn, ph s h l Kiu vn dng tn c l Ti, ng
hu bit c h tn, ngy mt nhum gi Hoa phong.(3) ng ng thi
cn ni:Thnh nhn dng H bin di, c th em l ngha ra dy bo th
loi c mai vy cng c th thay i m bit mc xim o.(4) Thng 12
nm 1835, ng tip tc c li d: t man l thuc bn ca ta t
lu, dn man cng l con ca ta, phi nn bo ban du dt, ngy
mt nhim theo Hn phong [] Phm nhng th cn dng u phi hc
tp Hn dn, chm vic lm lng. n nh ngn ng th bo h dn dn
tp ni Hn m. n ung v o qun cng dy cho dn dn theo Hn tc.
Ngoi ra, h c iu g phi i b thi h lu m lm cho gin tin d
dng th cng ty c ch bo. Thng cm h du l man mi, nhng cng
y triu nh L, Nguyn thc thi cc chnh sch dng H bin di. K

t vic vua L Thnh Tng nh Bn Man, Chim Thnh c m t:
Bn Man bng nghe gio ha th h lnh cy xi gc r ca chng, Sn
Man quy ri vng bin th ct qun qut sch so huyt ca chng []
bt dn chng mc o xim ca ta, khin t chng thnh qun huyn
1. (Vit) chu cn lc. Tr.252. Nguyn vn: []
2. (Vit) Tuyn tp Ng gia vn phi. Tp 1. Tr.614. Hon Nh ngm. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Vit) i Vit Lam Sn Chiu Lng bi. Dn theo Cc th vn ch Hn Vit Nam. Tr.305. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in Q.134 Nhu vin Ban cp sc mnh. Nguyn vn:

[]
3. (Vit) Hi in Q.133 Nhu vin T d thuc quc. Nguyn vn:
[]
4. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nh k - Q.132. Tr.36 (A.2772/ 27). Nguyn vn:
33
34
c lng tri v lng nng [] Hun c
vng, t ra b quan v nghi l
thm nhun, dng H bin di, y cng
trong triu, ng thi quy nh ly
l mt ng li thay i phong tc.
mu sc trang phc phn bit
(1)
35
Nh vy c th thy, t tng
phm trt ca b quan(1), nh
vng v quan nim Hoa di c
du s p dng ln u tin v
nhng nh hng mang tnh quyt
chnh thc quy ch phc sc ca
nh n vic la chn trang phc cung
nh ng vo cung nh nc
nh Vit Nam. Sau khi vn hin, phong
Vit. Bi trang phc ca b quan
tc Trung Hoa thm nhp v ha
Trung Quc n thi ng mi
quyn vi cc yu t bn a tr thnh
bt u c phn bit da trn
mt phn ca vn ha bn a th t
mu sc o(2). Sau khi xng nm
vic s dng ngn ng Hn trong quan
968, nm 975, vua inh cng nh
phng n vic p dng l li, l nghi
ra o m cho vn v b quan.(3)
c in ca Trung Quc vo cuc sng
Nhng quy nh c th ca trang phc cung nh thi Ng - inh, hu
cung nh, triu nh Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht Bn u khng cn
nh khng th truy kho, song qua ghi chp ca s thn nh Tng l
khi nim vay mn hay bt chc. i vi cc quc gia ny, vn
Tng Co v cuc sng ca vua quan i C Vit thi Tin L khi c
minh Trung Hoa sm tr thnh mt sn phm chung, mt kho d
yn hi, ngi vo d tic u phi ci ai, m(4), v m t ca ngi
liu m h c quyn s dng, v c quyn t to cho mnh mt nn
Nguyn v quan i Vit triu Trn mt trng rng en, tht ai, i
vn hin, in chng khng thua km Trung Quc .
m, mc o ng(5), c th thy li trang phc ai - m kiu ng
2. Lc s trang phc cung nh Vit Nam
nhiu kh nng c nh hnh t thi Ng vng v ko di n thi
Trang phc quan phng ca Vit Nam t thi inh tr v trc
Trn. Ngoi ra, vo thi vua L Hon, qua nhng ghi chp ngn gn
hin kh c th truy kho. Ch bit khong t nm 86 Ut Lm, Nht
ca Tng Co, ta cn c bit trang phc ca vua ti i C Vit thi
Nam, Liu ng, Lc Lng, thi Chu hoc xa tc, hoc bi tc chuy
k ny c v kh sc s. Tng Co m t: (Binh lnh) mc nhng
k, nay i m B Bin.
Nm 808, An Nam h kinh lc s l
chic o tp sc u tr ln trn ba ch Thin t qun, li cho bit
Trng Chu trong khi cai tr An Nam i B Bin thnh ai-
L Hon hay mc o c hoa vn v mu , m ly trn chu trang
sc.(6) Cui thi Tin L, nm 1006, vua L Long nh i quan ch,
Long triu Nguyn (Bo tng c vt

cung nh Hu).
(2)
(4)
(3)
theo li trang phc ca nh ng; thng tin ny nm trong
L phc B Bin thi Hn. (Tam l

thi Tng).
vn bia ca ngi cng tch ca h Trng, cho nn c th li ngi
Triu phc nht nht noi theo ch nh Tng(7). Triu phc
son c phn khoa trng. Song vo nm 939, Ng Quyn xng
phc mc trong cc bui l)
ca nh Tng c ba loi m Lng Quan vi ba
kiu: Tin Hin, iu Thin, Gii Tri, cn Cng phc

1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nh k - Q.163. Tr.11 (A.2772/ 32). Nguyn vn:
[]
[]
2. Dn li L Qu n. (Vit) Ton Vit thi lc - L ngn. Nguyn vn: (Vn minh khng km
Trung Quc); (Vit) i Vit thng s- T. Nguyn vn: (Vn vt in chng rt
p, khng km Trung Quc).
3. (Trung) Lun hng - Q.19 - Khi quc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Liu H ng tp - Q.10. Nguyn vn:
(trang
(trang phc dng

2. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.193.
4. (Trung) Tng s - Giao Ch truyn. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) o di ch lc. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) Tng s - Giao Ch truyn. Nguyn vn: []
[]
duy c
Song n thng 5 nm 1437 thi vua L Thi Tng, mt cuc tranh ci
m Phc u . Ton th cng ghi nhn s tn
ny la gia phe bo th mun gn gi ch c Trn - H v phe cp
ti ca loi m Lng Quan vo thi L, ng thi
tin mun du nhp ch o m triu nghi mi ca nh Minh din
cho bit nm 1059, nh L lnh cho b quan phi
ra, m ng u hai phe l Nguyn Tri v Lng ng. Do s thiu
i m Phc u, i hia mi c vo triu, vic
khuyt s liu v s chn ch ca Nguyn Tri, vua L Thi Tng
i m Phc u, i hia bt u t . (2) Nh vy,
chun theo tu ngh ca Lng ng du nhp mt phn ch phm
ch Triu phc v Cng phc ca b quan nh
phc ca nh Minh, theo vo dp i l vua mc o Cn, i m
Tng ln lt c p dng vo triu nh i Vit
Min, Thng triu i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo; mng mt,
vi mc nm 1006 v nm 1059.
ngy rm, b quan mc Cng phc, i Phc u; Thng triu i
khi x l cng v, thi ny ng ngha vi Thng phc)

(1)
36
Ch trang phc ca nh Trn v c bn
m Sa, o c trn. Nm 1437, vua L Thi Tng ng thun vic du
k tha ch ca nh L. Tuy nhin, tnh n
nhp dng o m Cng phc v Thng phc mi ca nh Minh
trc thi im nm 1396, nh Trn c hai t ci
ny khi nim Cng phc khng cn ng nht vi khi nim Thng phc),
cch trang phc Thng triu cho b quan, ln
cho nm 1471, vua L Thnh Tng tip tc du nhp ch phm phc
th nht din ra vo nm 1254, ln th hai sau
B t, v nm 1486 quy nh b quan vo triu phi i m Sa vi
46 nm. T nm 1301, kiu dng o m Thng triu ca b quan u
hai cnh nht lot hng v pha trc. Ch Sa - B phc l ch
ai - M. Quan thi
ng cm ht trong
B lin .
(lc
lm tin
c ch mi. Lc ny, m Phc u ca thi L b ph b, thay vo

l m inh T. Ring Tng quan c quy nh i m Ton Hoa
mu xanh. Vng hu hoc i m Triu Thin, hoc i m Bao Cn
ty xem h tc di hay ct ngn. Ngoi ra, trong ch quan phc
L Trn cn c s xut hin ca quy ch Ng i, th trang sc c hnh
con c, mc vo ai t s sang trng, vinh hin, phng theo ch
quan phc nh Tng, m xa hn l nh ng. Trang phc nh H k
tha ch o m nh Trn sau ci cch nm 1396 vi nhng chic
m Khc Phi, Vin Du, Thi C, Cao Sn v.v. vn l cc loi m mo
ca b quan nh Hn, th hin r tm l sng c v mun c s khu
B t (vung vi thu hnh chim th nh trc ngc b quan vn v phn bit phm cp). 1. B
t Tin hc ca nh Minh (Chc t trn phm); 2. B t Tin hc ca Triu Tin (BTCCQLSU);
3. B t Tin hc ca nh Nguyn (A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
bit v vn vt ca nh H. Vi nhiu l do, nh H ch gi ngi c 7

nm, mt ln na sau 1000 nm Bc thuc, t nc li ri vo ch
o m c th khu bit kh k chc tc, phm trt ca b quan, vy
thng tr ca Trung Hoa.
nn nh Thanh, nh Triu Tin, Lu Cu (nay l tnh Okinawa, Nht Bn) v
L Li pht c khi ngha Lam Sn, sau 10 nm thu li c ton
nh Nguyn sau ny u tham chc m phng. n thi vua L Hin
vn lnh th, ti thit triu nh i Vit. Sau khi k cng c lp
Tng, nm 1500, triu nh i Vit thc hin ci cch i vi chic
li, quan ch v trang phc triu nh L s u tun theo ch Trn
m Phc u, trong bao gm vic sa i kiu dng cnh chun v
- H, th hin vic s dng rng ri m Cao Sn cho vn v b quan.
quy nh trang sc vng bc trn m tip tc phn bit phm cp

mt cch k lng hn. Cc triu vua L v sau cho n thi nh Mc
cng c mt s ln thay i quy ch m mo phm phc, song nhn
1. Trung Quc phc sc thng s. Tr.110.

2. Nhng thng tin lin quan n trang phc cung nh t thi L ti thi Nguyn trong phn tng quan ny
chng ti khng tip tc s dng cc ch.
chung vn da trn ch c bn c xc lp t thi vua L Thnh

Tng, L Hin Tng.
37
38
B phc. Thng phc ca quan

i Vit thi L (m Sa, o c
trn nh B t) v quan Vit Nam
thi Nguyn (m ng Pha, o
giao lnh nh B t) trong Hong
Thanh chc cng (Q.1 v Q.9).
Sau nhng ng lon cui thi L
Thin, Cu Long ng Cn ca hong , m Phc u, H u,
s, bc vo thi L Trung Hng, vua
Xun Thu ca b quan vi khng t trang sc vng bc nh Bc sn,
L dn dn ch cn h v, cn cn quyn
kha gin, giao long cng nhng tm Long bo, Mng bo thu dy c
lc ng sang cha Trnh, khin mt phn
hoa vn rng my, sng nc mang li cm gic ngp mt chnh l
quy ch o m dnh cho thin t nh L
c trng ca trang phc cung nh triu Nguyn.
b lc b. Trc y, b quan c Triu
Nh vy c th thy ch o m ca triu nh nc Vit
phc, Thng phc mc vo chu vua,
thng xuyn din ra cc t ci cch, sa i, xut pht t tm l
th nay cn c thm b trang phc
mun khng nh s tin b v khc bit v vn vt trong s i snh
mc ring vo vng ph hu cha. Vi
gia cc vng triu ni b nc Vit v trong s i snh gia vng
nhng bin c cung nh lin tip din ra
triu Vit Nam vi vng triu Trung Quc. Bn cnh , hu qu
trong giai on ny, cng s cng knh
ca nhng t ph hy kinh thnh, sch v ca qun Chim v qun
ca b my quan liu k t na cui
Minh trong th k XIII, XIV cng nhng ng lon ca ni chnh nh
giai on L Trung Hng, quy ch trang
L trong sut nhng th k XVII, XVIII cng l nhng nguyn nhn
phc ca b quan cng ht sc hn lon,
chnh khin vic ti thit ch triu nghi, phm phc ca triu nh
buc Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng nm 1721 sau khi i s sang nh
tr nn bc thit.
Thanh phi tm kim in chng c ca nh Minh v t nh li ch

phm phc cho c ng n. Trang phc cung nh nh L lc
ny tip tc thu nhn cc kiu dng hoa vn, trang tr ca Trung Quc
giai on cui Minh u Thanh. Cng k t y, trang phc b quan
vo hu cha tip tc c phn lm hai b: mt b mc khi cha coi
chnh s ph v mt b mc khi cha tip
khch cc.
Mt khc, cha Nguyn t khi vo
phng Nam m ci dn dn c nh c
lp vi triu nh cha Trnh ng Ngoi.
n thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot, nm
Bin khnh ca nh Nguyn (Bu vt triu Nguyn), nh Tng (Tam l )
v nh Triu Tin (Bo tng c cung quc lp Seoul. nh: TQ).
1744, cha t xng vng, quyt thay i

nghi l, trang phc t cung nh cho n dn
gian ng Trong u nht lot theo phong
kh mi. T vic k tha mt phn trang phc
ca nh L, tham kho hnh dng o m
trong Tam ti hi ca nh Minh, c bit
ph bin kiu o c ng ci khuy, vua cha
triu Nguyn qu nhin to nn mt ci
y quan vn hin khc hn vi cc triu i
trc y. Nhng chic m Cu Long Thng
Triu phc ca quan triu

Nguyn: m Phc u, Mng
bo T linh. (nh: Alber Kahn).
39
II. TRANG PHC DN GIAN VIT NAM

40
Thi k Bc thuc ko di sut

mt thin nin k trn nc Vit,
nhng cha lc no ngi Vit ngui
ngoai kht vng c lp, m minh
chng l cc cuc khi ngha ca hai
B Trng, B Triu, Mai Thc Loan,
Phng Hng, Khc Tha D, Dng
nh Ngh v.v. chng li s cai tr ca
triu nh phng Bc. Khng th
Bnh ng vi v ci tru ca ngi
Thi. (Bo tng quc gia Thi. Dn theo
Trin lm vn vt folklore ng Nam
Phi-Thi-Vit-n).
ph nhn, trong thi k b h ko

di, ngi Vit tip nhn kh nhiu
thnh t ca vn minh Trung Hoa,
TC NHUM RNG EN
(Trung) Lnh ngoi i p m t ngi
thi L: Ngi nc y o thm, rng
en. (Trung) o di ch lc m t
ngi thi Trn: Nam n mt trng
rng en. (Hn) Triu Tin vng
triu thc lc (Tc Tng. Q.23. Nm
1691) m t s thn thi L: Thng
xuyn nhai tru cau, gp khch ming
vn nhai, rng u en nh sn. (Vit)
An Nam phong tc sch miu t tc
nhum rng thi Nguyn: Trai gi hn
10 tui, rng sa thay ht, rng mi
mc u th ai ny bt u nhum rng.
Cch lm l ly cnh kin tn nh ha
vi nc chua thnh thuc, qut ln l
cau, bui m dn ln rng, lm hn
mi ln nhum thnh mu . Li ly
phn en ha ln vi thuc trn dn vo
rng dm ba ln th nhum thnh
mu en. n ng nhum mt ln, n
b nhum lm nhiu ln, rng phi en
nhnh mi cho l p.
phc dn gian Vit Nam khng ch c

vi kiu dng o qun n nht, song
thng c mt vi kiu trang phc
c bit thnh hnh mi thi on
khc nhau.
C th ni, khc vi tnh cht
phc tp v s vn ng ring bit
ca trang phc cung nh, trang
phc dn gian Vit Nam nhn chung
kh n nh v kiu dng v hnh
thc, c bit l trang phc ca tng
lp thng dn. Vo thi L Trn, o
c trn l kiu o ph bin ca c
n ng v n b. Ring n ng
cn quy Thng, mt dng vy
quy bn ngoi qun la, di vt o
T in; n b chung mc o giao
nhng cc tp tc truyn thng trong
lnh c ln. Thi k ny, o t thn
li sng, trong sinh hot, trong li n ting ni hng ngy vn c
c may bng bn kh vi, hai vt song song bung di xung pha
ngi Vit lu gi bn chc.
trc xut hin, y cng l mt trong nhng kiu o ph bin ca
Sau khi nh nc phong kin - qun ch ca ngi Vit c to
ph n Vit Nam c k tha qua sut thi Trn, L. Bc sang thi L,
lp, mi triu i mi dng ln lun quan tm n vic ti thit triu
kiu o chung ca n ng v n b l o giao lnh (c o vt cho, cn gi
nghi, phm phc, song ring vi trang phc dn gian, triu nh Vit Nam
l o trng vt).
nhn chung u mun dn chng gi nguyn phong tc vn c. V nh
ngi thi L - Trn; n b tip tc duy tr b trang phc ym - vy, o
thng 5 nm 1437, vua L Thi Tng chun tu ngh ca Lng
t thn. T khi cha Nguyn ct c phng Nam, nc Vit phn lm
ng, p dng mt phn ch trang phc ca nh Minh vo trang phc
vng quc ng Trong v ng Ngoi, nm 1744, cha Nguyn Phc
cung nh, trong khi n thng 12 li ra lnh cho ngi Minh i
Khot h lnh thay i ton b trang phc dn gian ng Trong. Ti thi
Vit phi nht lot mc o v ct tc ngn theo phong tc ca ngi Kinh
im ny, kiu dng o di c ng ci khuy c ph bin, trong sut
bn a.(1) iu ny tip tc c minh chng qua chnh sch khoan ha
thi Nguyn v sau, loi o ny khng ngng thay i v di rng ca
ca vua Quang Trung trong chiu ln ngi, khi ng cho php y phc dn
ng tay, vt o, c o, dn dn thay th trang phc o c trn v o giao
gian Nam H, Bc H u c theo tc c, ch c m o trong triu th
lnh ca cc triu i trc y.
n ng lao ng, lnh trng vn lu gi tc ng kh nh
nht lot tun theo quy nh mi Nhn chung, triu nh Vit Nam t
Mt mt khc, c th ni s chng i lm lon ca ngi Giao
thi L n thi L u khng c chnh sch bt p thay i trang phc
Ch trong khong 1000 nm Bc thuc chc hn dy ln bi chnh
dn gian trong ton quc, ngoi tr triu Nguyn sau ny. D nhin, trang
sch tham tn ca cc thi th v nhng rng buc g b ca l li Trung

Hoa, nhng ng thi n cng phn no th hin bn tnh a t do ca
ngi Vit. C iu, v sau, tnh thoi mi trong thi quen sinh hot
41
nh vy?(1) Tuy th, thi thong ta vn thy mt vi hnh vi thoi mi

ca cc quan chn cung nh, nh vic cc quan nh L thoi mi nh
42
nc ct tru, nh b ra ca v sn an Tr dn n lnh cm ca triu

nh vo thng 11 nm 1473(2) v.v.
Bn tnh bo th, gi gn bn sc ch
thc s c y mnh v tr nn quyt
lit vo nhng thi k ngi Vit nhn
thy c nguy c b ng ha vn ha, cn
trong thi bnh, h li t ra kh linh hot
o vng. K n thi Nguyn, nm 1915, mc o nm thn mu vng (nh:
Albert Kahn); Ngi Tonkin nm 1714, mnh ph mc o giao lnh mu
vng. (Th gii nhn vt quyn); n ng thi L Trung Hng xa tc
i nn, mc o giao lnh mu vng (Hong Thanh chc cng ).
nhiu khi ln ti v php tc dn n vic thi no cng c ngi

dn c gan vn qun o mu vng, sc phc lun c triu nh Vit
Nam quy nh dnh ring cho thin t. S ln vt ty nh ny chng
bit bt u t khi no, ch bit nm 1182, vua L Cao Tng cm
thin h khng c mc trang phc mu vng(1), sau khi nh Minh
h nc ta cng nhiu ln ra lnh cm dn gian mc o mu vng(2).
Nm 1448, vua L Nhn Tng vn ra lnh cho b L tuyn b li lnh
cm dn gian mc mu vng v by gi thi tc chung s xa hoa, ln
vt.(3) n tn nm 1916, vua Khi nh cng phi ph rng: Ngy
trc khi trm cn l hong t lun thy dn chng c nhiu ngi n
mc qun o mu vng, nh th l phm lut. Nn ng thi sc cho
Ph Tha Thin yt bng nghim cm t nay tr i nhn dn khng c
n mc qun o c mu vng v nhng mu sc gn vi mu vng c
s phn bit.(4)
Trong khi triu nh n np vn nghim ngt v g b hn
nhiu so vi chn dn gian, cho nn c lc th lc ln t vua, t thn
Nguyn Cng Hng ngh cha Trnh Cng vn o mu vng tip
kin qun thn, nhng ng vn mt mc t chi: Talc no cng coi
trong vic tip thu cc nn vn ha xung

quanh. Lc ny, chnh nhng ngi tr v
t nc li thc v vic bo tn truyn
thng. Khng t ln ngi dn phng
theo li n mc, thm ch ni pha ting
ngi Minh, Thanh, Chim, Lo khin
triu nh phi ban lnh cm, nh nm
1375, nh Trn - H cm qun dn mc
kiu o ca ngi phng Bc v phng
ting ni ca ngi Chim, Lo (Ton
th). Nguyn Tri bnh xt: Ngi trong
nc khng c bt chc ting ni v
trang phc ca cc nc Ng, Chm, Lo,
Xim, Chn Lp lm lon quc tc.
Khn xp, o the, b trang phc in

hnh ca nam gii triu Nguyn, l n
tng mc nh ca nhiu ngi Vit
v trang phc ca ng cha. Tuy nhin,
dng o c ng ci khuy nh hnh v
ph bin t th k XVIII. Trc ,
nam gii ngi Vit phn ln mc o
giao lnh - trng vt. (Chn dung Chu
Vn An, v nm 1995).
Li cm ch ni rng: Ting Ng ton m li, phi chuyn ng sau mi

hiu c. Ting Lo ton m hng. Ting Xim, Chm, Chn Lp ton
m hu, nghe nh ting chim b lao. Ngi Ng lu ngy nhim thi tc
ca ngi Nguyn, tc xa, rng trng, o ngn m tay o di, m xim
le lot, lp lp nh l vy. Ngi Minh tuy khi phc o m Hn ng
xa, nhng thi tc khng i. Ngi Lo dng vi len qun ngi trng
nh o Thy in ca nh Pht. Ngi Chm dng khn che v i, l
hnh th. Xim La, Chn Lp dng vi bc lin t tay n u gi nh bc
s tn knh lm lng. Mu vng l sc phc ca thin t, ta u dm lm
xc cht, u khng nn noi theo lm lon quc tc.(3) Ngoi ra, thng

2. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Tr.253. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) ng Khnh Khi nh chnh yu. Tr.431.
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: . ,

43
8 nm 1499, vua L Hin Tng xung chiu

cm trn t thn vng, di n dn
44
chng, u khng c ly n b con gi
Ph lc
BIN DI LUN
Chim Thnh lm v, cho phong tc c

thun hu(1); nm 1696, 1717, 1727 nh L
lin tc cm ngi trong nc khng c
m phng trang phc, ting ni v u tc
Khc Trai L Vn Phc
(Chp trong Chu nguyn tp vnh tho)
ca ngi Thanh; nhng ngi Thanh c

ng ti nc Vit u phi nht nht tun
theo phong tc bn quc, ai vi phm s b
trc xut(2).
Tm li, mt phn do s bo th ca
ngi Vit, mt phn do quy nh ca triu
nh m li n vn trong dn gian qua cc
triu i khng bin i nhiu. Ch n thi
1. Ph n thi L mc o giao lnh
(Hong Thanh chc cng ); 2.
Ph n thi L mc o c trn bn
vt (Vn quan vinh quy . Bo
tng M thut Vit Nam); 3. Ph
n thi Nguyn mc o t thn
(Vit Nam t in); 4. Ph n thi
Nguyn mc o di ci khuy, vn
khn (Tranh T n).
Nguyn, c bit di thi vua Minh Mng,

ngi dn Vit Nam mi ln u tin b p
phi thay i trang phc thng ngy, b
cm s dng cc loi o t thn, vy p,
khn vung, kh v.v. bt k nam n nht
nht u phi mc o di nm thn ci
khuy. Tuy nhin, ngoi chic o di nm
thn c t nh nm 1744 m n thi Nguyn tr thnh quc phc

- tin thn ca chic o di nh ta thy ngy nay - cc loi o c trn,
trng vt, t thn cn hin din n u th k XX u l nhng dng
thc trang phc dn gian lu hnh ph bin qua cc thi k trc .

2. (Vit) Lch triu tp k. Tr.143-145.
Nguyn vn:
Quan nh Nguyn nm
1915 (nh: Albert Kahn).
45
46
Ty Nam st vch Xim La, cc thuc quc cn li v tc man di khc
nh vy .
nhau ni ph u c, tht l mt i quc sng sng gia tri t.

(Lc ny) coi l th tc cng khng c, coi l qun huyn cng khng
c, hung h c th coi l di sao? Song y tm c vi li nng cn
Bn v php tr nc th noi nh tam vng, bn v o thng th
Dch ngha:
T xa, c Trung Hoa th c di ch, y l s ngn cch t nhin
ca tri t. Hoa l Hoa m di l di, cng l s phn bit nghim minh
ca thnh hin. Hoa l Hoa, bt k bn thn vn minh khng man mi,
hay khng man mi nhng li b coi l man mi, u khng th khng
bin lun cho r rng c. Xt, di c gi l
di, kinh truyn thnh hin coi l k khc (khng
phi ging ni ta - TQ ch)
nn Chu cng phi
tho pht. C sao vy? C bn chuyn lm vic

bo ngc khng bit l ngha danh phn, nh
Kinh S thi xa; cng li c bn em c nc
ra lm tr d hm, bt chp cng thng o
ngha ca ngi ta, nh bn man di gio quyt
ng Ty Dng thi nay vy; gi chng l di
l v cch lm ca chng.
Nc Vit ta l phng y chng? Nc
Vit ta khng phi chng vy, m l hu du
ca Vim , h Thn Nng, bc thnh Trung
quc thi c vy. Thi c l vng hoang vin,
cha khai ha, by gi coi l di th c.
Nhng n thi Chu l Vit Thng, coi
l th tc, cc i sau l Giao Ch, coi l qun
huyn, cha bao gi gi l di c. Hung h, t
thi Trn, L, quc th An Nam ngy cng m
Ti Vit Nam, quy ch o Cn
m Min b ph b vo thi L
Trung Hng v c khi phc
vo thi Nguyn. Ti Trung
Quc, quy ch ny b ph b
vo thi Thanh. Trong nh l
quan nh Nguyn mc Cn
Min dn theo BAVH.
rng, n nay gp bi ln, pha Bc gip ba

tnh Qung ng, Qung Ty, Vn Nam ca
Trung chu; pha Ty khng ch cc tc man
di, tip vi cc nc Nam Chng, Min in;
pha ng trng ra b ln, m bc cc o;
pha Nam cng chm ti bin, vng qua pha
noi lc kinh t t, coi Khng Mnh l nh, coi Chu Trnh l ca. V hc
vn th coi T, Quc l ngun, coi Ban, M l nhnh. V vn chng th
th ph noi Chiu Minh, Vn Tuyn, xem L, l tm gng; th ha
theo Chu l, Lc th, coi Chung, Vng l m phm. Chiu hin i s, y
khoa c Hn ng vy. ai rng m cao, y y phc Tng Minh vy. C
vy m suy, i nh th. Xt, n vy m vn gi l di th ta cng chng
bit th no mi l Hoa vy. C k ngh lun cao minh ni rng: Thun l
ngi ng di, Vn vng l ngi Ty di, trong kinh truyn c ni n,
nhng di y tn hi g? H khng bit ch l li ni ch ni cc ngi sinh
ra thi. Thun vn l Thun, Vn vng vn l Vn vng, t khi c th
tch n gi c th tch no gi Thun l di chng, gi Vn vng l di
vng chng? Cng c k lun bn th thin rng: Chc l do ting ni,
trang phc khc l nn coi l di thi. Nh vy cng khng ng. C
ni chuyn trc mt, nh mt tnh Phc Kin, l ni cn di gio ca thy
Chu Kho nh, ring vng Tuyn Chng, ngi y thng i khn
thay m, vy l trang phc khc l chng, c th v th m coi l di chng?
Li nh mi tm tnh ngn ng khc nhau, ting nh qu v ting nh
quan cng khc nhau, vy l ting ni khc l chng, c th v th m coi
l di chng?
thu hiu ci ngha Hoa di, nn tm trong vn chng l ngha,
vy th li lun bin ca ti cng chng cn vit ra, ti u c a bin
lun, l do ti bt c d m thi.
Li bn lun ny sau khi vit ra, n tay Tn tng c, ng tuyn b ti ch:
Qu s ln ny n y, bn c t dng l s thn i i, khng dm coi l
ngoi di na. Sau s phu Trung chu ni nhau sao chp, c nhiu ngi vit
thm li bnh phm ngi ca. C ng L Chn Nhn l Nho hc Hun o, tnh
cc khng khi, sau khi thy o m nc ta lin nm m ca mnh xung t
ni rng: Ta l di ri, sao li coi ngi ta l di y?
47
CHNH VN
Chng I. TRANG PHC THI L
Nm 984 vua L Hon cho dng in Bch Bo Thin Tu c ct

dt vng dt bc ti ni Ha Vn lm ni coi chu, li cho dng
in Long Lc lp mi bng ngi bc(1). Cc vt phm vua L Hon
v vua L Long nh cng sang nh Tng phn ln l khm vng
bc chu bu, nh trong ba t triu cng nm 990, 997, 998 l nhng
chic gh rng phng khm vng bc cng by loi qu; nm 1001
li cng thm chic bnh khm vng bc tht bo(2). Vi tnh cch xa
x ny, vua L Hon chung mc o mu c hoa vn sc s, m
trang sc bng ngc chu. Bc sang thi L, phong kh vng gi ca
triu nh i Vit tip tc c m t gin tip qua nhng cng vt
rt thnh em biu nh Tng nh nm 1156, cc ch vit trong tu
biu a ln u bng vng, cng phm qu bn l trang sc bng
chu bu; cng trn chu th c 3 vin to nh qu c, 6 vin to c ht
mt, 24 vin nh ht o, 17 vin nh ht mn, 50 vin nh ht to,
c thy 100 vin, u ng trong bnh vng(3); nm 1173 tin dng
mt trp biu chng mng vua Tng ln ngi tng ng 330 lng
1. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Nguyn vn: []
2. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Phin Di - Giao Ch v Tng s - Giao Ch truyn u ghi chp r cc cng
phm ny. Loi gh chng ti cp, nguyn vn gi l Tht bo trang long phng t,
hoc Kim ngn tht bo , hoc D kim ngn tht bo trang giao (gh
Giao trang sc bng vng bc tht bo)
3. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.58. Nguyn vn:
Khc vi con s 1.200 lng vng trong sch

Lnh ngoi i p, sch Tng hi yu tp co chp s vng cng sang l 1.136 lng. S lng trn chu u
chp ging nhau.
vng, mt c bnh voi tng ng 40
vng T Giang, Hu Giang c nhiu m vng, lm k v li cp
lng vng, mt chic v trang sc cho
bc, bun bn dn chng vo Giao Ch.(1) Triu Tn i phu nh Tng
ng voi tng ng 50 lng vng, mt
l Trnh Tng cho bit c th: Bn du khch min Nam thng d d
chic trang sc trn voi tng ng
ngi ta lm ti , phu cng. a n chu ng lin tri em bn, c
120 lng vng, hai mt sa la, nm chic
mt ngi ly hai lng vng, chu ng li chuyn bn vo Giao Ch
mc voi ni vi di ng tm bc vng
ly ba lng vng. Mt nm khng di hng trm nghn ngi. Ai c
bc, mt chic trang sc trn voi bng
ti ngh th tr vng gp i, ai bit vn chng ch ngha li tr gp
vng bc an xen, mt dy my dt voi
i na.(2) By gi, trong quan li a phng vng Ung Chu Trung
trang sc bng vng bc tng ng
Quc c nhiu k n hi l, tnh trng bt cc ngi Tng bn vo
402 lng bc . Ngoi ra, Chu Kh Phi
i Vit thc s tr thnh mt vn nn i vi triu nh phng Bc.
cn cho bit: Khe ng Ung Chu cho
Qun thn nh Tng ch r: Quan li Ung Chu n hi l, lu gi
ti t An Nam u c m vng, vng nhng ni ny nhiu hn cc
nhng k bun bn n l, d d la bp lng dn, bn vo ni khe
qun khc. Chu Vnh An Ung Qun ch cch Giao Ch mt con sng
ng. Vng T Giang v cc chu Tht Nguyn gn Giao Ch. Nhng
thi, vt ngan bi n bn nc Giao Ch tm n ri quay v, trong phn
th nh vng, tp hng, chu sa xut nc man di rt nhiu, d bun
c ln vng, bn nc trong a phn nc ta th khng c. Vng
bn. Dn thng mt khi vo ng mi, u ch b dng lm n l,
khng trong m m ngoi t nhin, ln trong t ct, nh th bng
m cn b git cng ma. Trong vic bun bn giao dch y, mi n
ht mch, ln th nh ht u, ln hn to c ngn tay, u gi l vng
l cng phi c nm by lng vng, v vy m lng dn phi cht,
sng [] Cng c ht to bng qu trng g, gi l kim mu. C c
tht l ng xt thng.(3)
50
a vng thi L xut th ti Kim

ng, Hng Yn. (BTLSVN).
(1)
vng ny, giu c hn phi bit. Giao Ch c mi li l cc m vng,

mua dn ta v lm n l.
(2)
c hng nhiu ngun li t m vng sn c, tm l chung s

xa hoa, khi v c khuch trng, khin vn vt thi L hu ht tot
Cng chnh tnh hnh bun bn n l din ra ht sc si ng
ln v uy v, b th, song cng ht sc tinh xo, khc bit vi v nh gn
trong thi k u t ch ny gin tip minh chng cho tr lng
ca vn vt triu Nguyn sau ny. Trang phc cung nh v dn gian
vng di do v cuc sng cung nh xa hoa ca i Vit(3). Tuyn d
thi L cng c nhng tnh cht tng t nh vy.
Qung Nam Minh Thc cng tu vua Tng v tnh trng ny: Vng
Nm 1156, on s thn nh L do L Bang Chnh lm Chnh s
Ung Chu, pha Nam gip Giao Ch, nm trn tri, chu ng quanh
sang triu cng nh Tng khng t vng bc chu bu v gm vc i

Vit. Cng nm, ngi Vit tm mua loi on xe si vng (on: mt
1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p - Q.7 - Kim thch mn - Sinh kim. Tr.269. Nguyn vn:
[]
3. Cao Hng Trng cho bit, n cui thi Trn, theo bo co ca cc ph huyn ti Vit Nam, ph Thi
Nguyn c 17 m vng, huyn Ph Lng khng c, ph Lng Sn c 4 m, chu Qung Nguyn khng c,
chu Qung Oai 59 m, chu Gia Hng 5 m, chu Ninh Ha 3 m, chu Qu 1 m, chu Ngc Ma 6 m,
chu Tr Long 3 m. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.1 - Th sn. Nguyn vn:
dng la t tm nhn bng)
ca nh Tng vi s lng ln, vic trc
1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Hnh php nh - Cm c t - Mc ngy 17 thng 10 nm Thiu Hng

th 3. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho - Q.330 - Giao Ch. Tr.2594. Nguyn vn: ,
,,,..
Phn ny vn c tham kho t cun Trnh Thiu chu k lc ca Trnh Tng thi Tng, ph
chp trong Trnh Khai Dng tp tr.
3. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Hnh Php nh - Cm c t - Mc ngy 6 thng 12 nm Thiu Hng th
32. Nguyn vn:
51
52
ti din nhiu ln, khin vua Tng phi ra lnh nghim cm bn
I. Trang phc hong
loi on xa x ny cho ngi An Nam. Tng hi yu tp co cho bit:
1. L phc
Nm Thiu Hng th 26 (1156), bn Thm Cai tu: Ngi An Nam

mun mua on xe si vng. Loi trang phc ny xa hoa, khng phi
nhng s kin Ton th ghi nhn v
th em trng cho bn phng. Vua ni: Trang phc xa hoa nh loi
triu nh i C Vit thi inh L, c
xe vng khng th khng cm. Gn y vng cc khan him, bn tiu
th thy Giao Ch di bin c l khi nhn
nhn hm li nu ra thnh bn, khng th dng li c, tht l tic
xt: An Nam lc mi dng nc, mi
[...] Tuy nhiu ln ch bo, nhng ci thi xa x vn khng dt hn
vic cn gin lc, n thi L [] vn
c, cn phi ni li lnh nghim cm.
Thi xa hoa ny khng ch
vt xem ra mi y.(1) Tuy nhin, d
ph bin trong tng lp trung thng lu thi L, m ngay dn thng
vn vt ca hai triu i inh L cha
cng chung ly ch vng may vo qun o, khin vua L Cao Tng
hon b nh triu L th nhng quy ch
phi ra lnh cm nm 1182(2).
v trang phc vng hn vn l nhng
(1)
53
Kt hp m t ca Tng Co vi
Lu B i m Min 12 Lu, mc o
Cn. (Bn v thi Minh).
Tuy nhin, xt mt cch tng th, trang phc dn gian thi L phn
quy ch u tin hng u khi thit lp
ln ti mu tng t trang phc dn gian thi Nguyn nh m t ca
triu nghi. Ton th v i Vit s lc
Chu Kh Phi ngi nc y o thm rng en. Nhng loi trang phc
cng ghi nhn nm 980, Thi hu Dng Vn Nga em o Long Cn
sc s, xe si vng hn l nhng loi trang phc trong cung, trang phc
ca vua inh Tin Hong khoc ln mnh tng qun L Hon, mi ng
ca quan li v tng lp trung thng lu. Ring vi trang phc ca b
ln ngi hong (2). i Vit s lc chp nm 1213, Trn T Khnh xm
quan, Vn hin thng kho cho bit m Phc u, ng, ht, hi , ai
phm cung khuyt, th qun lnh i cp ti vt trong cung vua, vua L
vng, ai sng t ca on s thn nh L, th no cng c dt vng ;
Hu Tng by gi lnh ln Lng Chu. Hn mt nm sau, nm 1215,
phc sc Ng i c s dng cc nc ng vn cng thi, ring
trong k hoch n vua tr v triu, Trn T Khnh mi tr li cho vua
Ng i vng ca i Vit c miu t l rt di v ln . Bn cnh v
chic m Bnh Thin(3). An Nam ch lc ghi nhn vua nh Trn trong
ho hoa, din mo trang phc ca b quan triu L cng trang nghim,
dp i l i m Bnh Thin, mc o Cn(4). Nh vy, c th thy trong
nh nhn. Vy nn nm 1163, cc quan nh L mang vn th sang Tng
cc dp i l, cc v vua i C Vit - i Vit u mc o Cn, i m
mc o bo ta, cm ht ng, i li l bi ung dung , vua Tng Hiu
Bnh Thin tng t cc hong Trung Quc.
(3)
(4)
(5)
Tng khi thy ngi nc Vit n ha, o m nh nhn, rt vui mng

khen ngi .
(6)
C iu, n thi Nguyn, Phan Huy Ch nhn xt: Trang phc o

Cn m Min ca cc triu i nc ta khng cn du tch, n thi vua
L Thi Tng mi bt u ch ra m Min, v sau cng khng s dng.(5)
Nm 1834, sau khi vua Minh Mng t nh quy ch Cn Min li ban
1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Hnh php nh - Cm c nh - Mc ngy 2 thng 9 nm Thiu Hng th

26. Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Tr.158. Nguyn vn: Cm khng c may si ch mu vng

vo qun o. Tuy nhin Ton Th cho hay ni dung ca lnh cm ny l cm mc y phc mu vng. Khng
loi tr kh nng c hai thng tin ny u nm trong cng mt lnh cm ca vua L Cao Tng.
3. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho - Q.330. Nguyn vn: ,,,,,,
4. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn:
6. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: []
d cho b quan ni rng ng xem s sch nc ta, khng thy c o Cn

m Min, ng thi cho rng nh Nguyn l triu i u tin t nh
1. Dn theo (Vit) Cng mc - Chnh bin - Q.3 - Mc thng 8 ma thu nm 1059. Nguyn vn:
[]
3. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn: []
5. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
54
ra quy ch L phc ny(1). Qua y c th thy sch v ghi chp in
gi l hong, lc dng vng qua cm vt ln trn, c nh u kia ca
chng ca nc ta sau s sp ca mi triu i li i din vi nguy
trm [] Cc triu i Trung Quc k tha, song hnh dng, quy ch
c xa s. D vy, quy ch L phc ca cc triu i phong kin lun
u c bin d.(1)
c tham kho t quy ch c in ca Trung Quc, m nhng quy ch
Phan Huy Ch vin dn quy ch m Min dnh cho vng trong
ny thng c nhng thnh phn tng i n nh. T , cc triu i
Chu L cho bit, trn m ny c vn chp, ng trc trn, ng sau
phong kin Vit Nam, Trung Quc, Triu Tin, Nht Bn sao phng, ch
vung, ng trc sa xung, ng sau nghch ln, di 1 thc 6 tc, rng
bin vi nhng phng thc khc nhau, to nn hin tng i ng
8 tc, ng trc sa xung 4 tc, ng sau sa xung 3 tc. M Min kt
tiu d v vn vt trong khi cc nc ng vn. L phc Cn Min
hp vi o Cn, pha trc v sau u c 12 dy lu, mi lu c 12 vin
cng khng ngoi l. Do nh Trn k tha phn ln cc quy ch triu
ngc, ly dy to (dy t nhiu sc) xu ngc.(2)
nghi phm phc ca nh L, li do s khan him v mt t liu, cho nn
Vo thi Trn, L Tc miu t Min lu kh ging Trung chu(3),
y chng ti kho chung quy ch Cn Min ca cc v hong triu
tc m Min, dy lu c quy ch i tng t m Min ca Trung
L v triu Trn.
Quc. ng thi ng cho bit, m Min p dng cho cc quan t tc i
a. M Bnh Thin
liu ban tr xung c cc ng vin lm bng vng bc an xen, Lnh
Ngoi tr giai on 1816-1832, khi nim m
th x cho n Hiu th lang u i
Bnh Thin c dng ch loi m Triu phc
m Min bc (tc vin bng bc).
ca mt s v hong t, vng thn triu Nguyn,
Theo t liu ca Trung Quc
cn thng thng khi nim ny c hiu l th
ghi nhn, m Bnh Thin ca cc v
m trn phng ca vua i lc i t nh cch gii
vua ng - Tng l loi m Thng
thch ca Vit Nam t in (1931). Ni cch khc,
Thin gn thm min bn. n
m Bnh Thin l bit danh ca m Min. Tuy
thi Minh mi khi phc quy ch
nhin, ngay thi Nguyn, m Min khng ch l
c, di min bn gi li ng m,
loi m t ca ring vua, m cn l m t ca hong
b m Thng Thin.(4) Trong khi
t, vng cng v cc quan nht, nh, tam phm.
, c im ni bt ca m Thng
Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in nh
Thin chnh l cc vin lng c
ngha: M Bnh Thin cn c gi l Bnh Min
dt vng. Qua vi nt miu t chm
, Lu Min , l tn nm na ca m Min,
ph ca L Tc, c th thy quy ch
loi m vng, ch hu v khanh i phu dng

trong cc dp i l [] Phn nh m p mt vn
g, gi l din, cn gi min bn. Hai u min bn
r cc chui ngc chu, gi l lu. S lu c quy
M Bnh Thin (Minh

Hi in) v m Thng
Thin (Trung ng
cung quan phc).
nh da vo thn phn ca ngi i m. 12 lu l cao qu, chuyn
m Min ca vua quan i Vit thi

Trn v i th c tham kho t
quy ch m Min ca Trung Quc
Tng cha Vnh Nghim, Bc Giang i

m Bnh Thin nh 4 dy thao, l m tp
m L phc th hin trn cc pho tng
Dim Vng ti Vit Nam; Tng Thch
cha Vua, H Ni i m Min 9 lu, mc
o bo gn B t, vn l phm phc ca b
quan thi L Nguyn, trn thc t khng tn
ti cch kt hp nh vy.
thi ng - Tng. Nh vy c th t gi thit, m Bnh Thin ca

cc v vua L - Trn cng l loi m dng Thng Thin gn min bn,
dng cho vng. Hai bn thn m c hai l, gi l nu, l ni ci

trm ngc xuyn qua c nh bi tc. u trm ngc buc dy m,
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp III. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV. Nguyn vn: []
[]
1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.35

2. (Vit) Loi ch L nghi ch Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
.
3. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn: .
55
56
c trang sc ton bng vng. Loi m ny c quy ch dy lu tng
cho thy, nhiu kh nng trong
t Trung Quc, ring hnh dng v quy ch trang sc m c s khc bit.
nhng dp i l, hong v cc
y, chng ti mun nhn mnh rng, m Min ca vng
vng cng, i thn nh inh
nc Vit lun l loi m c dy lu, khng phi dng m c bn di
L L Trn u vn L phc
thao nh bn gc m hay dng m ch c min bn m khng c dy
Cn Min. Trung Quc y quan
lu nh mt s pho tng thi L - Nguyn th hin. Nhn nh ca L
phc sc i t in cng cho
Tc chnh l mt thit chng. Ngoi ra, tm bia i Vit quc L gia t
bit, cc vua Trung Quc khi cng
Sng Thin Din Linh thp bi (nin i 1106) vi ni dung ca ngi vua
t tin vng, n tip triu kin,
L Nhn Tng nhc ti Min lu ca vua L qua hnh nh con ngao
gp g quc tn, c hnh hn l,
vng ni ln mt nc lic mt nhn b, h ming phun ma; ngng
cng u mc Cn Min(1).
trng di lu trn m Min(1); hay bi th ca H Qu Ly tng Tuyn
Long Cn, cn gi l Cn
ph s Nguyn Ngn Quang sau khi son ngi nh Trn cng nhc ti
phc, hoc gi tt l Cn, l L
di m ny: Cn c ch tng khng
phc ca vng v vng
ai bit/ Mt ny h b Min lu che?(2)
cng i thn. Nh Phm nh
Tuy l nhng li vn th mang tnh c
H ghi nhn, mt b Cn Min
l, song hnh nh Min lu c nhc

n y ch thc tn ti trn thc t,
Nht
(Mt tri)
Nguyt
(Mt trng)
Tinh thn
(Sao)
dnh cho vng Min phi

c 12 lu, lu c 12 ngc, Cn
ta hnh dung v chic m L phc
phc thu 12 chng.(2) Trong
tn qu nht ca vng nc Vit vi
, chng l cc hoa vn thu
nhng di ngc r xung trc mt.

b. o Cn
Nh chng ti trnh by, Ton
Long
(Rng)
Hoa trng
(Chim tr)
Sn
(Ni)
th ghi nhn vic vua L Hon ln ngi
i m Bnh Thin, mc o Cn. Ngoi
Quy ch o Cn thi Minh (Tam ti hi): 1.

Th: cn gi l t th, l di tt bng cc si
t. Gm: i th, di tt kn (hnh ch nht)
v tiu th, di tt tha, nm trn i th, tht
sau lng. 2. Bi: di ngc bi eo hai bn
hng. 3. Trung n: o lt trong; 4. T tt:
tht ai, che pha trc h th; 5. Cch i:
ai da. 6. i i: ai lm bng la; 7. Tt;
8. Giy Tch; 9. o en 6 chng; 10. Hun
thng: mt dng vy quy, mc bn ngoi
qun, mu . 11. Phng tm khc lnh: c
cong, tm vung, eo c.
tri t, vn vt, gm 12 loi:

Nht (mt tri), Nguyt (mt trng), Tinh thn (sao), Sn (ni), Long
(rng), Hoa trng (chim tr), Tng di (cc tng miu, c hnh h v
mc o Long Cn ca vua inh, An Nam

ch lc miu t vua Trn trong dp i l
trn L phc, tng trng cho
57
kh), To (thy to), Ha (la), Phn m (go), Ph (ru), Pht (ch ).

To
(Rong)
Ha
(La)
Phn m
(Go)
Theo Tng s, mt b Cn phc ca vua Tng bao gm: o xanh

tm chng, thu Nht, Nguyt, Tinh thn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng, Ha,
ra, trong mt bi th tng Chu Vn An,
Tng di; Hun thng (thng mu pht) c bn chng, thu To, Phn
Trn Nguyn n dng hnh tng
m, Ph, Pht. Mu ca t tt ty theo mu sc ca thng, thu hai con
lng ngui lnh vi o Cn thu hnh

Ph, m Min v ngc khu, v vic
chn b quan trng ca v danh nho
bc nht Vit Nam ny . D liu trn
(3)
Tng di
(Cc t)
Ph
(Ru)
Pht
(Ch )
Hoa vn 12 chng thu trn

o Cn theo Tam ti hi.
rng bay ln. o Trung n
(o lt trong, c giao lnh)
bng l trng. Vin o
mu en, di tht bng l ; dy buc tt bng l xanh. i i bng

l trng; cch i (ai da); hai di bi bch ngc (di ngc bi eo hai bn hng).
i th su mu: , vng, en, trng, xanh nht, lc. Tiu th ba mu,
nh i th, mc ba ming ngc hon (Th, cn gi l t th, l di tt

3. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.161.

2. (Vit) B kho. Nguyn vn:
bit cc chng Ph, Pht, Phn m, Hoa trng v cc trang sc t th,

ngc bi, phng tm khc lnh, Min lu u kh ging Trung Quc.(1)
58
Din mo trang phc Cn Min th hin trn

ph iu Ng gia th bi
L Tc nhn xt cc chng trn b Cn phc ca vua Trn nh

Ph, Pht, Phn m, Hoa trng cho n cc trang sc thy bi, t th,
phng tm khc lnh, Min lu u kh ging Trung chu, ng thi
cho bit, vo i l, vua Trn i m Bnh Thin [] mc o Cn, eo
5 Cn Min thi Hn, o Cn 6 chng, thng 6 chng. (5000 nm trang phc Trung
Quc) 1. Nguyt; 2. Nht; 3. Tinh thn; 4. Long; 5. Sn; 6. Hoa trng; 7. Tng di; 8. To; 9.
Ha; 10. Phn m; 11. Ph; 12. Pht. 13. Thng (cn gi l xim, trang phc che phn h th,
quy bn ngoi qun). 14. T tt (tnh cht nh thng, tht ln trn cch i).
ai Kim Long (tc ai nh cc ming vng khm hnh rng), c eo phng tm khc
lnh bng la trng thu b gm ln trn, nh vng v ngc chu, tay
cm ngc khu. (2)
Qua kho st tm bia Ng gia th bi, chng ti nhn thy, ngi
n ng trn tm bia ny ngi trn ngai rng, u i m Min vi di
Thin H i vt ngang min bn, c eo phng tm khc lnh nh
cc ht nh ngc chu xung quanh, tay cm ngc khu, lng tht i
i v t tt, chn i giy Tch. Trn o Cn c th nhn ra hai chng
Nht, Nguyt hai vai, chng Sn hai ng tay o pha sau, chng
Hoa trng hai bn gu vt o. i i c hai di r xung hai bn,
t tt nm gia. Trn t tt cn c th nhn ra chng To v Pht
. Di Thin H i vt ngang min bn l di dy trang sc trn m
Min ca vng, ln u tin xut hin vo thi ng, n thi
1.Thnh V thin hong (701 756. Cha Todaiji, Nht Bn) i m Min 10 lu; 2.
Trang phc o Cn 12 chng kt hp vi m Min 12 lu theo quy ch nh Hn (Tam l
); 3. Vua Cao Ly (Sa saek ei hyang ki) i m Min 9 lu, c eo phng tm khc lnh.
bng cc si t. Gm: i th, di tt kn hnh ch nht v tiu th, di

tt tha, nm trn i th, tht sau lng). Tt mu son, giy Tch ,
Tng ch cn thy qua ghi chp(3). Ring phng tm khc lnh nh

vng v ngc chu c th coi l nt c sc ca ring b Cn phc thi
L - Trn.
Mc d, b trang phc Cn Min th hin trn ph iu Ng gia th
bi mt mc no khp vi m t ca An Nam ch lc, song cc c
vin bng la vng.(1)

Chng ti cho rng, Cn Min ca cc v vua L - Trn v c bn
khp vi nhng quy ch Cn Min ca nh Tng, bi chnh L Tc cho
1. (Trung) Tng s - D phc ch - Q.151. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn: ,
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn:

. [],
. Cm t mt s d bn xut nhp ch cn (khn), khin cc bn
dch ting Vit u dch l c eo khn bng [] ri li eo c vung trng o cong. Cch hiu v dch nh
vy khng chnh xc.
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.36-37.
59
thng. Ti Trung Quc, bt u t thi ng Thi Tng, Hong bo

mi chnh thc tr thnh Thng phc ca vng; phm cp ca
60
b quan c khu bit da trn sc o(1). L Qu n cng cho bit:

u thi ng, cc quan chung mc ba mu , vng v ta. Vua
Thi Tng mi ln u nh ra phm phc, ly mu ta, , lc, xanh
lm th t. T bui y khng c ai mc mu vng na, v king b trn
vy(2). Ti Vit Nam, Ton th ghi nhn nm 939, Ng Quyn xng
vng, thit lp b quan, quy nh mu sc quan phc. Bc sang thi
L, ta c bit cc chnh s i Vit sang triu cng nh Tng c
m t mc o bo ta. Phan Huy Ch nhn xt ch phc sc ca cc
quan L - Trn coi mu ta l qu nht, th n l mu , mu lc,
mu bic, sau cng l mu xanh(3), tc l khng khc ch phc sc
ca nh Tng.
Chu Kh Phi ghi nhn, trong nhng cng phm triu nh i
Vit cng sang nh Tng nm 1156 c 850 tht on mu vng sm
thu hnh bn long (tc hoa vn rng , cun trn) (4). Trc , nm 1040, vua
L Thi Tng dy cung n dt c gm vc(5), ng mun t y v
Ng gia th bi (cha Du, H Nam) Bia
khng ghi nin i, nhng cn c vo
ba loi ch hy c khc trn bia, c
th on nh tm bia c dng t
thi Trn, khong t nm 1366-1395.
Mt trc c hnh ngi n ng u
i m Min, ngi trn ngai rng, c th
l chn dung mt ngi hng cng xy
dng ngi cha. Ni dung bia ghi li
vic mt nh s h Ng tu xin dng t
vn lm cha, v nhng ngi cng c rung vo cha. (Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam.
Tp 2. Tr.265).
liu hin c vn cha cho php chng ti khng nh hnh tng ngi
n ng trn tm bia ny c th l v vua no ca nh Trn. Tuy nhin,
vi s trng hp khng phi ngu nhin k trn, chng ti cho rng, b
trang phc Cn Min th hin trn bia phn no c tham kho t
nguyn mu Cn Min dnh cho vng thi Trn.
2. Thng phc
Bn cnh b L phc c s dng trong cc dp l tit quan trng,
cn c b Thng phc s dng trong nhng bui thit triu thng
o bo. (Vit) Nht dng thng m: Bo, o di cng gi l o kp. (Vit) Nam phng
danh vt b kho: Bo, l o di, chm n chn. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m: on lnh
(c trn) o chu nh ang. (nh: Long bo ca vua Liu khai qut ti Giang Bc may
bng on mu vng pha , thu hnh rng ngc o, ti nay c coi l hin vt long
bo c nht ca Trung Quc. (Trng Khnh Bc vt qun tng vn vt sch).

2. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: . Tng hi yu tp co cho bit nm

1156 nh L cn cng 50 tht lnh v la, khin chng ti nghi ng v con s 850 tht on Lnh ngoi i
p ghi nhn.
61
1. Ph thi Trn (M thut thi Trn); 2. Ph thi L trung hng (Tranh c Vit
Nam); 3. Ph thi Nguyn (Bo tng M thut cung nh Hu).
n rng thi L v theo gch khai qut ti Hong thnh Thng Long.
Phc dng trang phc Cn Min thi L Trn da theo ph iu
Ng th gia bi. (Tranh: L Tip).
i vi loi m Thng
triu ca cc vua nh L, hin
64
65
cha c s liu trc tip cp.

Tuy nhin, Ton th cho bit
nm 1035, vua L Thi Tng
xung chiu ch ra Kim Bt
Gic Tiu Dao. i Vit s k
tin bin (bn in thi Ty Sn)
cho bit m Tiu Dao tn l
Nam ng ng an vng xut hnh (V vo thi Ng i 907- 960. Bo tng Ngh thut
Boston M); Bch ha n Hong - vua Ty H (Trung Quc Long bo); Chn dung vua ng
Cao Tng (V vo thi Minh. C cung tng tuyn ty). Vua Ty H (1032-1227. Bo tng
Hermitage Nga).
Kim Bt Gic, Loi ch th cho

rng tn m l Kim Bt Gic
Tiu Dao, song quy ch khng
th kho c(1). Tuy nhin gn
y c kin cho rng Bt Gic
Tiu Dao chp thiu ch ta,
vn t tn Tiu Dao ta, mt
loi gh gp cho ca ngi
Hung N. Chng ti cho rng,
cch l gii nh vy khng
tha ng, bi nu vy, cng
c th t gi thit nguyn tc
vn chp thiu ch cn, m
n Hoa bo thu hoa dnh cho cc quan ng phm triu Nguyn (BAVH) v tng quan vn
t phm triu Nguyn mc Giao bo ti lng Khi nh (nh: TQ). Vo thi Nguyn, kiu thu
hoa vn hai vai, ngc o c p dng vo Giao bo v Hoa bo ca cc quan t, ng phm.
Tiu Dao Cn l tn mt loi

m ca vn nhn, o s nh
Tng. Thc t cho thy, mt s
loi m c tn hnh tng nh
Long bo ca vua L D Tng, Long bo triu

Nguyn th k XIX v Mng bo ca triu nh
cha Nguyn th k XVIII, Kiu dng hoa vn
rng my sng nc triu L Trung Hng v
triu Nguyn chu nh hng t dng thc
trang tr o bo Trung Quc thi cui Minh u
Thanh. Cc triu i Vit Nam v Trung Quc
trc cha xut hin kiu hoa vn v trang
tr nh vy. Tuy nhin, o bo dng khi thit
triu u l dng o c trn, thng tay.
sau triu nh i Vit khng tip tc dng gm vc ca nh Tng,
Phong Cn (gi), Tam Sn Mo
iu ny chng t cc tht on nm trong s cng phm nu trn
(ba ngn ni) v.v. l nhng
nhiu kh nng l do cung nh nh L t dt c. Kho xt t liu
chic m xut hin trong khi cc nc s dng ch Hn, song kiu
m t kiu dng o bo Thng phc ca vua Trung Quc thi ng
dng hon ton khc bit. Trong trng hp ny, v cha c liu
-Tng c th thy, loi o bo thi k ny u c thu hoa vn rng
c th xc quyt Bt Gic Tiu Dao l loi gh tng t gh Tiu Dao
, ch yu ngc o v hai vai. Dng o bo ny ng thi cng l
ca ngi Hung N hay mt kiu m bin cch t m Tiu Dao ca
dng o bo chung ca vua cha Cao Ly, Ty H, i Liu v.v. o bo
ngi Tng, cho nn thng tin dn trong Ton th nn li tn nghi.
ca cc v vua L Trn rt c th c may t loi on vng sm thu

rng , vi kiu dng tng t o bo ca hong Trung Quc cng
thi, song cng c th ch l loi o bo trn, khng thu hoa vn.
1. (Vit) i Vit s k tin bin. BK2. Tr.29. Nguyn vn: (Vit) Loi
ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
ci trm vng, trn mc o Sam vng,

di mc qun ta.(1)
66
67
a. o Sam
Ngi Tng khng miu t kiu
dng o Sam vng ca vua L, ch miu
t loi o Sam en ca nhng ngi
cn li nh Lnh ngoi i p cho
bit: Nhng ngi cn li thng ngy
pha trn mc o Sam en c trn b
st, bn vt nh o Bi t, gi l o T
in (2). Nh vy c th thy o
Sam en thnh hnh vo triu L l loi
o c trn, t phn ngc tr xung x
t, tng t kiu o Bi T, vn cng l
M Phc u th hin trn pho tng c cho
l vua L Thi T, cha Kin S (H Ni, TK
XVIII) mang m bt php dn gian, i m
mang kiu dng m Sa thi Minh, p dng
vo Vit Nam nm 1457, khng xc tn
lm c liu nghin cu trang phc L Trn.
Tng Thp in Dim vng cha Bt

Thp i m c nh hnh bt gic (c kin
cho rng loi m ny l m lc lng khng
chnh xc), c eo Phng tm khc lnh.
Song cc pho tng ny c tc dng vo
th k XVII, nn rt kh c kh nng c lin
h trc tip vi trang phc L Trn.
mt dng o Sam thnh hnh vo thi

Tng Trung Quc(3). Vo thi Trn,
Trn Cng Trung, s nh Nguyn,
o Bi t x bn vt, gia c th
nh cc hoc di buc. (Tam ti
hi).
khi sang i Vit cng miu t: Ngi

trong nc u mc mu en, o en bn vt, c trn bng l.(4)
Da vo cc d liu trn m suy, o Sam vng ca vua i Vit
cng l loi o x vt nh o T in, o Bi T, c o nhiu kh nng
l dng c trn. Song cng khng loi tr kh nng o Sam dnh ring
3. Tin phc
cho vua i Vit c dng i khm tng t o ca vua Tng Huy
Cc kiu dng trang phc tng lu hnh trong cung nh v dn
Tng trong bc v Thnh cm thi Nam Tng, tng Pht cha
gian Vit Nam a phn u l dng o x t hai bn sn. S khc bit
Pht Tch thi L v tng qun cha Trnh Th Ngc C cha Bt
ca cc dng o ny ch yu nm phn c o, c loi c an cho (giao
Thp thi L Trung Hng.
lnh, trc lnh), c trn (on lnh, vin lnh), c cong vung (phng
lnh, khc lnh) v cng c loi c ng ci khuy (th lnh). Trong s ,
o c ng ci khuy, tc o di c nh hnh vo th k XVIII, c nin
i mun nht.
Tin phc l trang phc mc vo ngy thng, nhng lc nhn
c khng phi thit triu. Cc sch Lnh ngoi i p (Tng - Chu
Kh Phi), An Nam k lc (Tng - Trnh Tng), Vn hin thng kho
(Nguyn - M oan Lm) u chp: Ngi Giao khng phn sang
hn, u bi tc chuy k, i chn t, vua ngy thng cng vy, song

. Xut pht t thi him khch vi ngi i Vit, cc tc gi
Trung Quc thng dng t T (t trng) ch vua Vit, y chng ti u dch l vua.
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in (Tr.206) nh ngha: o Sam l loi o n (may mt lp, phn
bit vi o kp, o bo, loi o may hai lp), ng tay rng, c lm bng the la mng nh, may mt lp,
khng lt, thng c may thnh dng i khm (hai vt di song song), gia c di buc, cng c loi
khng cn di buc, hai vt m. ng tay o ch yu l ng thng, khng c vin [] y cng l loi o
thi thng, rt c a chung vo thi Tng.
4. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - An Nam tc s. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:
sc trm bn ngoi ca n ng.(1) Vn hin

thng kho ch thch, ngi Giao Ch mc
68
69
o Sam en khng tht eo, di o Sam tht

qun en.(2)
Nh vy vo thi L - Trn, n ng i
Vit s dng mt loi phc sc lm bng vi
hoc la (thng l loi gp np), quy ra
ngoi chic qun hai ng, di lp o Sam,
gi l qun hoc thng, vo thi Nguyn
cn c gi l xim. Thng ca vua mu
Qun cha Trnh Th Ngc C th k XVII cha Bt Thp, mc o Sam kiu i khm,
bn trong quy thng mu en. (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); Vua Tng Huy Tng trong
Thnh cm (Bo tng C cung i Bc); Tng Pht cha Pht Tch thi L (Bo tng
Lch s Vit Nam).
ta, thng ca vng hu v th dn u

mu en. Vo thi Nguyn, thng gn vi
K y (o cc tay c trn) c quy nh l
trang phc mc lt ca vua quan, hu phi
trong nhng bui vo chu hoc t l.
o vng thng ta. (Phc dng.
b. Qun - thng, vy quy

c. o Cu
Khi nim qun trong ting Hn khng ng nht vi khi nim
Tranh: L Tip).
mc t tht lng tr xung, c hai ng x chn trong ting Vit
Ton th cho bit, nm 1055, xt thng
hin i(1). Qun l mc pha di, thng c may ghp t nm,
nhng t nhn phi chu i rt, vua L Thnh

Tng ni: Ta trong thm cung, si than
su hoc tm mnh vi (la), vy quanh eo. Trung Quc, thi Hn
xng th, mc o H Cu m cn lnh n
Ngy nam n u mc, kch c ngn di khc bit, qun ngn th chm
th ny, hung h nhng k b giam trong
n u gi, qun di th qut t, mc trm ra bn ngoi chic qun
ngc(3), on sai em chn chiu ban cho t
hai ng. Qun cng chnh l tn gi nm na ca thng(2). Chnh v
nhn. Phm Ng, Th ni hc sinh di triu
vy loi vy p ca n b min Bc, trong t d bt ngi Bc H
vua Trn Minh Tng (1314-1329) cng nhc
thay i y phc ca vua Minh Mng c gi l vin thng(3) (thng

trn),
n mt loi o Cu c lm t lng iu
trong Gia nh thnh thng ch ca Trnh Hoi c c gi l
th, qua cu th mi nm lnh nh trn
v trip vi qun (vy quy khng np). Chnh L Tc cng ghi nhn vo thi
sng nc vi mt chic thuyn nan, gi Ty
Trn: Vng hu v th dn thng mc o c trn, mc thng mu

en, qun bng l trng . Loi thng - qun ca nam gii ngi Vit
(4)
thi L c Lnh ngoi i p cho bit: Vua ngy thng mc qun

ta, nhng ngi khc ngy thng mc qun en. Qun en l phc
1.
2.
3.
4.
T in ting Vit. Tr.1251.

Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.278.
(Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn: []
(Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn:
May o Cu (K thut ca
ngi An Nam).
thi bt i o iu Cu mu en(4). Trn

Nguyn n (1325-1390) cng c th vit vc
1. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: [][][]
2. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho Giao Ch. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1055. Vua L Thnh Tng ni:.
4. Th vn L Trn. Tp 2. Quyn thng. Tr.827. Nguyn vn:
ngi m yu n trong chic o Cu nh(1). Chng t vo thi L - Trn,

70
II. Trang phc b quan
vua quan i Vit c hai loi o Cu l H Cu (o Cu lng co) v
Nm 1006, vua L Long nh, v vua cui cng ca triu Tin L
iu Cu (o Cu lng chn) mc vo ma ng. Phm nh H
xung lnh thay i Triu phc, nht nht noi theo ch nh Tng.
kho v o Cu ca Trung Quc v o Cu thi L cho bit: Cu l o
Sau trong sut 24 nm bao gm trn vn thi gian tr v ca vua L
da chng rt, sn sinh Trung Quc, c hai loi, loi sang trng l H
Thi T (1009 - 1028), ta khng thy triu nh nh L ti thit triu nghi
Cu, iu Cu, th n l Dng Cu (o Cu lng d) [] o Cu c
phm phc. Nh ni t trc, phi n nm 1030, vua L Thi Tng
hai kiu, kiu bn trong l da bn ngoi l lng v kiu bn trong l lng
mi ln u tin t nh li quan phc. Nm 1059, vua L Thnh Tng
bn ngoi l da [] Pha Nam vng Giang Hoi khng c tuyt, t sng,
chnh thc p dng ch Cng phc ca nh Tng, nh du bi quy
loi o Cu thng mc l loi bn trong l lng, bn ngoi l da. Nc
nh b quan phi i m Phc u, i hia mi c vo triu. Nh vy,
ta cng vy. Chng do thy th phong tc khc nhau.
Ch nam ngc
t nm 1059 tr i, b quan triu L c ba loi trang phc, gm L phc
m cng gii thch: Khinh Cu (o Cu nh) kho thuc o da.(3) Ngoi ra,
(mc trong dp l ln), Triu phc (mc trong bui i triu v dp l
qua hnh v ngi may o Cu trong cun K thut ca ngi An Nam,
nh), v Thng phc (mc trong bui Thng triu).
(2)
chng ta vn thy o Cu c s dng vo cui thi Nguyn. Chng t
1. L phc
vo ma ng gi rt, vua ti Vit Nam ngoi o bng, cn mc o Cu.
Nh chng ti trnh by ti phn kho
o Cu ca Vit Nam c loi H Cu v iu Cu, bn trong l lng, bn
v L phc ca hong , trang phc Cn Min
ngoi l da, khc vi o Cu min Bc Trung Quc.
c coi l L phc sang trng bc nht ca

triu nh phong kin. Tc v phm trt ca
vng hu b quan ch yu c phn bit da
trn s dy lu trn m Min v s chng thu
trn o Cn. Quy ch Cn Min ca mi triu
i c s gia gim khc bit.
Vi t liu hin nay, chng ti cha th
kho c quy ch Cn Min c th ca triu
L. Theo vn bia cha Bo Ninh Sng Phc dng
nm 1107 m t, v quan cho xy cha l Thi
ph H Hng Tng cm ngc khu sng sng,
mc Ph Pht ung dung(4) Theo quy ch ca
Rng Trung Quc thi Tng trong tranh chn dung Tng Cao Tng (Bo tng C cung i
Bc) v trn tm vi thu thi Tng (Cm t vn chng Trung Quc truyn thng chc t vn
dng); Rng Vit Nam thi L khai qut ti Hong thnh Thng Long; Naga Thi Lan (chp
ti Chiang Mai, Thi Lan); Naga Chm (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
nh Trn, trang phc Cn Min ch dnh cho

hong v cc quan t tc i liu ban tr
xung ti hiu th lang. Ring cc tc vng,
hu, minh t c quy nh s dng L phc
Cng Thn. Vo thi L, Ton th chp: nm
1. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.165. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) B kho - Quyn thng. Tr.39. Nguyn vn:
[][]
3. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m gii ngha. Tr.119.
1206, vua L Cao Tng thng m D Mng lm
Trang phc Cn Min dnh

cho vng cng triu Nguyn.
(BAVH).
71
72
Thi bo, cho php i m Cng Thn(1). Chng t ngay t thi L, b
tr ln i m 1 lng. n thi Tng, m Triu phc ca i thn tng
quan c hai loi L phc l Cn Min v Cng Thn tng t nh thi
s lng thnh 5 lng. M Tin Hin 5 lng tc Ng Lng Quan l
Trn. C iu, quy ch Cn Min, Cng Thn thi L v thi Trn c
loi m bi t t ng hoc trong dp triu hi ca cc quan nht,
ng nht hay khng, chng ti cha th khng nh c. Ni dung c
nh phm. i vi thn vng, khanh tng v bc tam cng lit vo
th ca quy ch Cn Min v Cng Thn dnh cho b quan chng ti s
nht ng, Khu mt s, thi t, thi bo lit vo nh ng u c
tip tc trnh by ti phn kho v L phc ca b quan triu Trn.
i Tht Lng Quan tc m Tin Hin 7 lng(1). Nh L p dng ch
2. Triu phc
Triu phc ca nh Tng s, cho nn s xut hin ca loi m 7 lng
Triu phc ca b quan nh L k tha quy ch Triu phc c
dnh cho Khu mt s ghi nhn trong Ton th l iu c th l gii. Ton
t nh t nm 1006 ca nh Tin L, m xa hn l quy ch Triu phc
th cho bit: Nm 1129, vua L Thn Tng cho L T Khc lm Khu mt
ca nh Tng. Phan Huy Ch kho Tng ch cho bit, Triu phc nh
s, lit vo trt minh t, c i m Tht Lng Quan.(2)
Tng c ba th m: m Tin Hin, m iu Thin v m Gii Tri. C

ba loi m ny trn thc t u l m Tin Hin, do nh thm ui con
iu th hoc sng con gii tri m c tn gi khc nhau(2). Kho vn
hin Trung Quc c th thy, m Tin Hin thi Tng v thi Minh c
kiu dng tng t, song hon ton khu bit vi kiu m Tin Hin thi
Hn. Nh Tin L du nhp ch Triu
phc ca nh Tng, nh L li tip tc k
tha, do quy ch m Tin Hin ca
i Vit hn c nhng nt tng ng v
M Lng quan thi Minh (Khng Ph); M L quan (Rekan) ca Nht

Bn thi Nara m phng hnh dng Lng quan ca nh ng (kariginu.
jp); Lng quan ca Hn Quc thi Triu Tin (emuseum.go.kr).
c bn so vi kiu dng m ca nh Tng

- Minh v Triu Tin.
Tng s chp rng: Ch thi k u nh Tng, m Tin Hin
a. Lng Quan
M Tin Hin thng c
Ng Lng Quan, trn m trang sc hnh hoa bng vng bc, gi trm
gi l Lng Quan , hoc Kim Quan bi
bng sng t hoc i mi [] Nht, nh phm i khi t l, triu hi,
(3)
trung th mn h chp thm Lung cn, gi ui iu th [] Ng s
c cc vin lng bng vng trang sc

chy dc trn thn m. S vin lng
i phu, trung tha gi sng gii tri.(3) Trong , Lung cn c lm
c dng phn bit phm cp ca b
bng my, bn ngoi qut sn, hnh dng vung vn, hai bn tri phi
quan. T thi ng Hn ti thi ng,
dng loi my mng mn, tt thnh hai tm trang sc nh hai cnh ve.
ch yu c t 3 lng xung n 1 lng.

Nh thi ng quy nh cc quan t
tam phm tr ln i m 3 lng, ng
phm tr ln i m 2 lng, cu phm
Chn dung Phm Trng Ym i m

iu Thin, trn trn m nh hnh
con ve (thin), pha sau ci ui con
iu th, bn ngoi chp Lung cn.
(Bo tng Nam Kinh Trung Quc).
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: .

Trc thi Nguyn Phong, ngi ta dng i mi ch thnh hnh dng
1. (Trung) Tng s - D phc ch - D phc t - Ch thn phc thng. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . Trong bn dch ca Ton th v

Loi ch, Lng c dch l cu, Tht Lng Quan c dch thnh m by cu.
[][]
73
74
con bm trang sc pha trc m, v sau thay
Quy ch Lng Quan ch c p dng ti ba nc Trung Quc,
bng hnh dng con ve bng vng. Khi i, Lung cn
Vit Nam, Triu Tin, khng c p dng ti Nht Bn. Tuy nhin,
c chp ln Lng Quan; y l loi phc sc p
Nht Bn thi Nara (710-794) tng s dng loi m L Quan (Rekan)
dng ring cho t tng, thn vng, tam s v tam
c kiu dng sao phng t m Lng Quan ca nh ng. Ti Trung
cng . Hnh thc trang sc trn Lng Quan v
Quc, quy ch Lng Quan b gin on vo thi Nguyn, c khi
Lung cn ca nh Tng c th nh hng ti hnh
phc vo thi Minh, sau khi ngi Mn Thanh lm ch Trung Hoa th
thc trang sc trn m Cng Thn v m Dng
vnh vin b loi b. Triu nh Triu Tin p dng ch trang phc
ng ca nh Trn. Bi theo L Tc, hai loi m
ca nh Minh v l triu i phong kin cui cng ng gn gi ch
(1)
Cng Thn v Dng ng ca i Vit cng u

dng hnh con ong, con bm bng vng trang sc
ln m, dy tha to nh ty theo cp bc(2).
b. Chu y, Chu thng
M iu Thin chp
Lung cn trong tranh
chn dung T M
Quang thi Tng. (Lch
i danh thn tng).
Triu phc Lng Quan n tn u th k XX. Ti Vit Nam, t cui

thi Tin L n ht thi L trong khong 231 nm (1006-1225), Lng
Quan c triu nh i Vit p dng lm Triu phc, n thi Trn
- H b ph b, c ti du nhp vo thi L s v thi Ty Sn. Trang
phc nh Nguyn sau ny tuy cng chu nh hng su nng t ch
Theo quy ch Triu phc ca nh Tng, ba loi

m Triu phc Tin Hin, iu Thin, Gii Tri u kt hp vi cng
trang phc ca nh Minh, song ring Triu phc Lng Quan li khng
mt b trang phc Chu y, Chu thng (o , thng ) . Quy ch ca
tip tc p dng.
(3)
mt b Chu y, Chu thng nhn chung bao gm: o bo v thng may

bng la , bn trong mc lt o Trung n la trng, tht i i, ri
3. Thng phc
Thng phc ca nh L thi vua Thi T, Thi Tng vn noi theo
tht Cch i, quy T tt bng la , eo Phng tm khc lnh, cm
ch quan phc ca nh Tin L. T nm 1059 tr i, vua L Thnh
ht, i tt may bng lnh trng, giy da en .
Tng mi cho i quy ch Thng phc nh nh Tng. M Phc u
(4)
Thn y Heo Jun (Ha Tun;

1546 - 1615) mc Triu phc
Lng Quan (Trang phc ca
nc ta thi k Joseon qua tranh
nhn vt. Sch ny cho bit:
Triu phc cng gi l Kim quan.
Triu phc l trang phc bi t
ca b quan khi vua c hnh t
l, cn mc vo ngy khnh chc,
ngy Mng Mt tt Nguyn n,
ngy Thnh tit, ngy ng ch,
khi ban b chiu sc v khi dng
biu. Tr. 42); Quan nh Minh mc
Triu phc Lng quan. (Vn
gian bang ngn sch. Bo tng
Nam Kinh Trung Quc).
1. Trung Quc lch i y quan phc sc ch. Tr.143.

2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn:
4. Trung Quc phc trang s. Tr.196; Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.744-745.
ti Trung Quc tri qua mt qu trnh bin i lu di vi nhiu tn

gi, nhiu kiu dng khc nhau. Sau khi du nhp vo Vit Nam, loi m
ny cng c bin i v kiu dng, trang sc, ng thi cng tri qua
nhiu cuc thng trm, hng ph.
a. Phc u
Phm Trng Ym thi Tng i m Phc u; M Phc u

thi ng cn c dng khn vn; Quan nh Minh i m Sa.
75
76
M Phc u nguyn thy l mt dng
nh c p dng vo quy ch quan phc ca triu nh i Vit. Nm
khn, gm bn di, hai di tht pha sau
1486, vua L Thnh Tng quy nh hai cnh m Sa phi nht lot cong
bung thng, hai di tht pha trc kt nt
hng v pha trc. Nm 1500, vua L Hin Tng nh ra quy ch trang
nh, cho nn cn c gi l Chit thng
sc vng bc ln m Phc u, quy ch cha tng xut hin ti cc triu
cn. Theo quy ch thi ng, ch c vua
nh Trung Quc, Lu Cu, Triu Tin. Lc ny, ngoi vic c nh
mi c dng loi m c hai cnh cng(1).
thm cc trang sc vng bc phn bit phm cp, m Phc u i
n thi Tng, Phc u thot ly khi hnh
Vit cn bin i kiu dng tr nn trn tra hn tng t nh hnh dng
thc m mm, ban u lp lt c bn bi
m Sa. n thi Nguyn, m Phc u k tha mt phn quy ch thi
my, bn ngoi bc mt lp the ri qut sn, v
L Trung Hng, trong nhiu trng hp cng c gi vi ci tn m
sau lp the qut sn chc chn lin b lp
Sa, ng thi c chia lm hai kiu: kiu m Phc u vung dnh cho
lt bng my bn trong i, gp phn trn m
quan v v kiu m Phc u trn dnh cho quan vn.
pha trc xung mt bc, dui thng hai cnh
Nh L p dng quy ch Thng phc ca nh Tng, tc l m
chun. Khung ca hai cnh chun thng
Phc u ca nh L v i th tng t kiu m vung vc, hai cnh
c lm bng si st, dy n hoc nan tre,
chun thun di ca nh Tng. Tuy nhin, khc vi loi m Phc u
ch thnh cc hnh dng khc nhau, c dng
trn khng c trang sc ca triu Tng - Minh, m Phc u triu L l
cnh thng (trc cc), cnh gp (cc cc),
loi m c dt vng nh ghi nhn ca Vn hin thng kho. Vic dng
hai cnh vt cho nhau (giao cc), hai cnh
vng dt hoc nh ln m c th coi l truyn thng sc m nht qun
cha thng ln tri (triu thin), hai cnh cong
ca cc triu i Vit Nam.
(2)
M sa thi L s (chn dung

Nguyn Tri, Bo tng Lch s);
M Phc u ca Thi gim
Trnh ng ng th k XVII;
M Phc u ca quan V v
quan Vn triu Nguyn (BAVH).
chch ln trn (thun phong). Theo ch
b. Bo phc
trang phc thi Tng, Cng phc ca b quan
Nh chng ti cp, Lnh
nht lot dng m Phc u vi hai cnh chun di, thng nh thanh
ngoi i p miu t s thn nh
thc, ban u cn ngn, cng v sau cng c ko di .
L i s sang Tng mc o bo mu
(3)
M Phc u c p dng lm m Thng triu ca b quan nh
ta. Phan Huy Ch nhn nh ch
L v nh Trn cho n thng 10 nm 1300, sau ci cch thi vua Trn
phc sc ca cc quan L - Trn
Anh Tng th b ph b, nhng ch cho m inh T. Trong nhng nm
phng theo ch nh Tng, tc
nh Minh h nc ta, m Phc u trn vi hai cnh chun di theo
coi mu ta l mu cao qu nht,
ng quy ch Tng - Minh quay tr li Vit Nam p dng lm Cng phc
th n l mu , mu lc, mu
cho quan li v sinh vin a phng(4). Tuy nhin, sau khi nh L phc
bic v mu xanh. Ch phc sc
quc, thi vua L Thi T v na u thi vua L Thi Tng, b quan
ny v c bn vn c p dng
ch i m Cao Sn theo quy ch quan phc nh H. Mi nm sau,
thi Trn - H - L sau ny. Ngoi
m Phc u vung v m Sa, phin bn dng trn do nh Minh ch
ra, cng ging nh quan phc ca
ai ngc nn ca vua Triu Tin v ai

ngc nn xanh ca vng hu Triu Tin.
(Bo tng C cung Quc lp Seoul).
Trung Quc thi Tng - Minh, bo phc Thng triu ca b quan nh

1. (Trung) Mng Kh bt m - Q.1 - Phc u. Tr.11. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Tng s - Ch 106 - D phc ng. Nguyn vn:
3. Trung Quc lch i y quan phc sc ch. Tr.140.

4. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Tr.253. Nguyn vn: []. Nguyn
vn s dng khi nim trin gic u cn, cng chnh l m Phc u vi hai cnh chun thun di.
L, Trn, H, L s khng c nhiu hoa vn thu sc sc s nh Mng bo

thi L Trung Hng v thi Nguyn. Bo phc Thng triu cc triu
i ny ch ly mu sc lm c s phn bit phm trt, hoa vn rng my
thng ch c dt chm.
77
78
V cht liu may o bo, Ton th cho bit nm 1040, vua L Thi
sau l Nam Giao, ra khi i ni th ban cho
Tng dy cung n dt c gm vc, xung chiu ban pht ht gm
cn thn, bi vy khi vo chu b quan vn v
vc ca nh Tng trong kho cho b quan, cc quan t nht phm n
ni ngoi u eo Ng i. Phm cc quan mc
ng phm c mc o bo gm, t lc phm n cu phm c mc
o ta, Ng i sc bng vng; cc quan mc o
o bo vc ; nm 1044, nhng v quan c cng trong cuc tho pht
, sc bng bc [] V quan thn vng, ni
Chim Thnh, quan t nht phm ti lc phm c mc o bo gm, t
chc tng hiu u khng eo.(1) Nh vy,
tht phm n cu phm c mc o may bng l(2). Qua hai t tng
Ng i thi ng vn l dng ph hiu hnh
thng ca vua L Thi Tng dnh cho b quan, c th thy cc quan
con c, ng trong ti, dng ra vo i ni.
nht phm n ng phm lun c mc o bo gm, cc quan lc phm
n thi Tng, quy ch ny thay i, Ng
tr xung c th s dng cc loi o bo may t cht liu vc hoc l.
i khng cn c ng trong ti m dng
(1)
i i vi o bo cn c nhng phc sc nh ai, hia v ht. Lnh
vng bc trc tip ch thnh hnh con c eo
ngoi i p m t s thn i Vit tht ai sng t nn (3), Vn hin
ai, ch mang tnh trang sc, t s vinh hin.
thng kho cho bit cc phc sc nh ng, ht, ai vng, ai sng t ca
Ngoi ra, cc vua i Vit thi L - Trn
on s thn, th no cng c dt vng. Ring vi cc quan vn thi
cng nh cc vua thi ng - Tng u c
L - Trn, bn cnh cc ph kin ai, hia, ht, nhng v quan c cng
cng mt phng thc ban thng cho cng
tch, c cao vng trng, cc sng thn cn c nh vua ban tng mt

th phc sc c hnh con c, gi l Ng i. Loi phc sc ny c git
bn ai, eo trong cc bui Thng triu t s vinh hin.
thn gi l T T Kim ng i, T Ph Ng
i. Theo ch ng thi, Thng phc
ca cc quan t tam phm tr ln mu ta, t
ng phm tr ln mu . Nhng chc quan km bc nhng li c cng
c. Ng i
Ng ph thi ng.
Bch ha chn dung Quy Ngha

qun tit s To Din Lc
ti hang Du Lm, n Hong.
Ng i l phc sc eo trn ai ca
ln, hoc c vua sng i, nhiu khi c c ban cho mc o mu ta
cc quan vn. Tng s cho bit: Quy ch
hoc mu , km theo phc sc Ng i, vt quy nh phm cp hin
Ng i c t thi ng, by gi chng l
thi. S c ban gi l T T Kim Ng i (Ban cho mc o bo ta v Kim
mt dng ph hiu quy c, ban u gi l
Ng i), T Ph Ng i(Ban cho mc o bo v Ng i) th hin s tn trng,
Ng ph, bn tri mt chic, bn phi mt
yu mn ca vua i vi b ti. L Tc cng cho bit vo thi Trn trong
chic, chic bn tri dng khi vo ni, chic
dp i l, quan vn eo Kim Ng, v quan khng eo.
bn phi eo ty thn, khc h tn quan li,
Phan Huy Ch bnh lun: Theo vn kim thch cn li, cc quan triu
ra vo khp li vi nhau. V ng Ng ph
L phn nhiu c ban o - Ng i, Kim Ng i th bit thi by gi
trong ti, nn gi l Ng i (ng: c; i: ti).
noi theo ch nh Tng. Quy ch Ng i khng bit n thi no khng
Nh Tng noi theo, nhng quy ch khc
bit, dng vng bc sc thnh hnh con c, trong b Cng phc th eo
dng na.(2) Ln theo gi ca Phan Huy Ch, chng ti tra ton b vn

bia L - Trn trong hai tp Vn khc Hn Nm. Kt qu cho thy, cm
vo ai, r ra ng sau, phn bit sang hn, khng cn l loi ph hiu

thi ng na. T nm u nin hiu Ung Hy i vua Tng Thi Tng,

3. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.59. Nguyn vn: ,
1. (Trung) Tng s - Ch 106 - D phc ng. Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
79
t T Ph Ng i, T Kim Ng i xut hin sm nht trn vn khc

80
Chung x Thanh Mai vi nin i nm 798 (thi thuc ng), v mun
1185
~1214
Bia cha
Chc
Thnh
Bo n
Th
Din
1314
~1324
Chung
Qun
Thng
Thnh
Bch
Hc
Trn Nht
Dut
Ni kim hiu Thi y

Bnh chng s Thanh
Ha ph l nguyn
soi, Thng tr quc,
Khai quc vng
T - Kim Ng i
1367
Bia thp
Hin
Diu
Trn
Nguyn
Trc
Thng tr quc, Khai

quc Cung Tnh
i vng
T - Kim Ng i
1382
Bia cha
T n
H Tng
Thc
Vinh lc i phu, Th
trung th lnh kim Hn
lm hc s phng ch,
Tri thm hnh vin s,
Thng h qun
T - Kim Ng i
1391
Bia cha
Vnh Bo
Trn [?]
Cng
(khuyt tn
m)
Thi trung i phu, Hn

lm hc s, Thi Nguyn
l An ph s kim
Chuyn vn s
T - Kim Ng i
nht l trn vn bia cha Vnh Bo khc nm 1391 (cui thi Trn).
BNG THNG K NG I
Theo Vn khc Hn Nm
Nm
798
1107
1118
1121
Tn bia
H tn
Chc tc
c ban
Phn quan th Vn chu

m Bnh ph bit tng
Ph - Ng i
Quch Lp
Kinh chu T mn ph
Chit xung
Ph - Ng i
Cao Thi
Bnh
Nha tin t tng, th

H chu H tp
ph bit tng
Ph - Ng i
Hong
Nh ao
Ngn chu bit tng,

Thng tr quc
T - Kim Ng i
L Hoi
Trung
Qu chu bit tng,

Thng tr quc
T - Kim Ng i
Anh
Qun chu du dch s,

Thng tr quc
T - Kim Ng i
Hoi
Bch
Qun chu th s, Sung

bn chu du s,
Thng tr quc
T - Kim Ng i
Qung
Du
Ty Bnh chu th s,
Thng tr quc
T - Kim Ng i
Bia cha
Bo Ninh
Sng
Phc
L Tha n
Triu lit i phu, ng

thng cp mn s,
Thng th vin
ngoi lang
T - Kim Ng i
Bia cha
Sng
Nghim
Din
Thnh
Chu
Nguyn
Ho
Phng nghi lang, th

Thi thng tha, kim
Qun ng ph ti ha,
Kiu k y
Ph - Ng i
Bia thp
Sng
Thin
Din
Linh
L Bo
Cung
Chung
x Thanh
Mai
Hu th lang, Thng
th, Cng b vin ngoi
lang, ng tri Thm
hnh Vin s, Thng
khinh xa y
Triu ngh i phu
T - Kim Ng i
81
Tuy nhin, trong khi Phan Huy Ch (1782 - 1840) ni rng khng bit
n thi no khng dng quy ch Ng i, th L Qu n (1726 - 1784)
tip tc ghi nhn s tn ti ca Kim Ng i vo thi L s qua i Vit
thng s, theo , Kim Ng i vn c vua L Li ban thng cho cc
cng thn khong t nm 1426 n nm 1460. Chnh Nguyn Tri cng
l bc khai quc cng thn c ban Kim Ng i v o bo ta(1).
Ti Trung Quc, Ng i c t nh vo thi ng v b ph b
vo thi Minh(2). Ti Vit Nam, mt s t liu vn t cho thy Ng i xut
hin t rt sm, c th sm hn nin i 798 ca Chung x Thanh Mai,
v c duy tr n khong nhng nm 1460 mi b ph b. i vi hnh
T - Kim Ng i
dng Ng i ca Vit Nam, chng ta ch bit mt thng tin duy nht do

Chu Kh Phi cung cp, l trong on s gi i Vit sang Tng, cc
1. Tn phm tc y ca Nguyn Tri l Tuyn phng i phu Nhp ni Hnh khin Mn h Hu gin
ngh i phu ng Trung th lnh s T T Kim Ng i Thng h quc Quan phc hu t tnh L Tri.
(Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.3. Tr.36. Nguyn vn:
2. (Hn) Nghin Kinh Trai ton tp - Q.47 - Phc sc kho. Nguyn vn:
Nh Tng li dng vng bc sc thnh hnh con c.
Trong b Cng phc th eo ai, r xung pha sau, cho m quan, vinh hin. n thi Minh th ph b
ma r rt. Ma ng gi rt, ma h nng

nc, bt k trang phc ca vua cha, quan
82
83
li hay binh lnh u c s phn bit gia

trang phc ma ng v trang phc ma h,
thm ch cn c trang phc ma thu.
1. Gip Tr
Tng s cho bit, trn chin gia Tng

v i C Vit din ra vo ma xun nm
981, qun Tng chin thng v thu c
hai trm chin thuyn cng mt vn b
Gip Tr ca i C Vit(1). Ma xun nm
1002, vua L Hon xung chiu ch to hng
nghn m u Mu cho su qun(2).
u Mu l tn gi khc ca m
Tr, th m bo v phn u ca binh s
khi gio mc, v hnh dng ging chic
mu, mt loi ni thi c ca Trung Quc
nn c gi l u Mu(3). Ti Vit Nam,
1. Ng i. Hin vt Ng i ca Nht Bn (Di 13cm, rng 3cm, dy 1,5cm. Ct gi ti Shsin).

2. Hnh v Ng i trong sch Oa Hn Tam ti hi. 3. Hnh Ng i trn bch ha chn dung
To Din Lc (hang Du Lm, n Hong).
s xut hin ca m u Mu trong c s
quan vn v u mc o bo ta, eo ai sng t nn , khng eo Ng
L Thc Hin sai s sang nh T xin bi
i. T sau khi cng voi, L Bang Chnh tip tc i s ti Khm Chu, lin
c thm chic Kim Ng i rt di v ln. C kh nng trc nm 1059,
(1)
sm nht l vo nm 485, th s Giao Chu
Tng cha i mc Gip Tr,

trong vn bia c gi l Thin
nhn - Thn tng, sau c nh
ng thnh Kim Cng bt b.
Do l thn tng, nn c th v
mt trang phc, phn no th hin
trang phc ca tng v thi L.
binh, dng 20 c m u Mu ton bng bc cng di tua bng lng

cng cm ln chp m(4); nm 549, Triu Vit Vng cu khn thn
Ng i ca Vit Nam vn cn mang dng thc Ng ph thi ng.
linh c c m u Mu chp cm mng rng nh gic(5). Nm
T sau khi vua L Thnh Tng quy nh ch Thng phc Phc u
571, L Pht T em qun nh Triu Vit Vng, Triu Vit Vng
phng theo quy ch Tng, Ng i ca Vit Nam c th c i sang
thng tht c qun, i m u Mu ng ch.(6) n thi H sau
kiu dng mi, song kch c to v di hn Ng i ca nh Tng.
ny, khi H Nguyn Trng b bt sang Bc Kinh, ng ln u tin m

Khi Gip xng ch to o Gip v m Tr cho Trung Quc. Cc s
III. Trang phc qun i

C kin cho rng, Vit Nam l x nng nn qun trang khng th
liu trn cho thy b Gip Tr c p dng lm qun trang cho qun
i nc Vit xut hin t rt sm, tng c s dng trong nhiu
c o Gip, m Tr, v nu c cng khng dy dn, nhiu trang sc nh

Gip Tr ca cc nc ng . Tuy nhin, y ch l kin mang tnh
c on, bi l trn quc th thi L, Trn, L, thi tit Vit Nam c bn
1. (Trung) Tng s - Q.488 - Lit truyn - 247 - Ngoi quc t - Giao Ch i L. Nguyn vn:

3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.84-85.
84
triu i phong kin Vit Nam, ngoi tr
inh, c duy tr s dng n cui thi Hu L vi t cch l mt loi
triu Nguyn.
m qun trang.
Din mo Gip Tr t thi inh,
Vo thi L, Ton th ch nhc ti b trang phc Gip Tr, khng
L tr v trc khng c hin vt lm
ng ti chic m T Phng Bnh nh. Song v loi m ny n
chng. Gip Tr thi L - Trn, xt mt
thi L Li khi ngha vn c s dng lm qun trang, chng t tri
chng mc nht nh, c th tham kho
qua cc triu i L, Trn, H, T Phng Bnh nh vn c k tha,
t pho tng Kim Cng cha Long i
p dng cho mt b phn binh lnh ca triu nh i Vit.
v tng tng lnh khai qut ti di tch

Bo Thp, x Thng Li, huyn Vn n,
Qung Ninh. B Gip phc th hin trn
hai pho tng ny tuy khng hon ton
ng nht, song u c s k tha, m
Tng Kim Cng thi L.
1. (BTMTVN); 2. (iu khc c Vit
Nam); 3. (Hoa vn Vit Nam).
phng t b Gip Minh Quang

ca nh ng vi c trng l hai
tm h tm hnh trn trc ngc v hai
ming trang sc hnh u h gn hai bn vai. Cn lu thm rng, nm

1009(1) v nm 1014(2), vua L Long nh v vua L Thi T ch ng
m ma ca mt qu tc ng Ngoi (S. Baron,
1683. Dn theo T liu cc cng ty ng n
v Anh v K Ch - ng Ngoi th k XVIII);
Binh lnh tp v trn thp gm thi Trn (Bo
tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: TQ).
xin cc b Gip Tr vng ca nh Tng, v c vua Tng chp thun.

2. T Phng Bnh nh
Ngoi trang phc Gip Tr dnh cho tng
lnh v mt s i qun c bit, ma xun nm
974, vua inh Tin Hong nh ra Thp o
3. Ci trn ng kh
qun, lnh cho binh lnh cc o u i m T

Phng Bnh nh . Loi m ny c Ton
Ngoi trang phc Gip Tr, T Phng Bnh nh, binh lnh i
(3)
th m t l lm bng da, nh m phng, bn
Vit n cui thi Hu L vn lu gi tc ci trn ng kh c xa ca
bn khu gip li, trn hp di rng, quy ch
n ng Giao Ch. Chng ta c th thy li trang phc gin tin ny qua
ny n i bn triu (Hu L) khi ngha vn cn
hnh nh ngi lnh din tp v ngh th hin trn thp gm thi Trn,
dng, i sau cng noi theo.(4) Nh vy chic

m T Phng Bnh nh xut hin t thi
M T Phng Bnh nh
ca nho sinh thi Minh
(Trung Quc phc trang s).
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . (Trung) An Nam ch lc L th th gia. Nguyn

vn: . (Trung) Tng s - Q.488 Lit truyn 247 Ngoi quc t - Giao Ch
i L. Nguyn vn: .
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - L th th gia v Tng hi yu tp co - Phin di nht - Giao Ch. Mc ngy 17
thng 7 nm th 7 i Trung Tng Ph (1015) u chp:
qua bc ha ngi An Nam trong Tam ti hi(1) thi Minh, qun Giao
Ch v nm 1590 trong Boxer Codex v.v. c bit, bc ha m ma ca
mt qu tc ng Ngoi v i rc kiu vua L do S. Baron v khong
nhng nm 1683 th hin nhng ngi n ng rc quan ti v phu
1. Vng K, tc gi ca Tam ti hi, c thin kin khng tt p v ngi Vit. Tuy nhin, gt i nhng
li l ph bng, c th thy nhng bc ha trong Tam ti hi vn c gi tr tham kho nht nh. i Vit
s k tc bin cho bit cha Trnh Giang sai t thn xt duyt sch Tam ti hi bn nh ra l nhc
(Tr.135). Ph bin tp lc cho bit cha Nguyn Phc Khot h lnh tham kho Tam ti hi t ra trang
phc cho ng Trong (Tr.334).
85
86
khing kiu vua vn ci trn ng
Marco Polo ghi nhn, ti Giao Ch, thng thng
kh, chng t theo quan nim ca
c n ng ln ph n u v trn ngi nhiu hnh
ngi Vit xa kia, ci trn ng kh
th nh s t, rng, chim chc, vn vn, v cc hnh
c coi l vic ht sc bnh thng,
c v bng kim trnh b phai mt [...] h cho
dung d, c s dng ngay c trong
rng trn ngi cng nhiu hnh xm th cng p v
nhng trng hp tng nh cn
ra dng qu tc(1). Tuy nhin, t nm 1323 thi vua
phi lch s, trang nghim nht. Ch
Trn Minh Tng tr i, triu nh tuyn qun li ly
ring nh Nguyn v sau mi t thi
ngi bo trng lm hng trn, vy nn t qun s
khinh b, cho rng li y phc c
khng cn tip tc xm mnh na.(2)
cu ca Bc H qu kch, ng thi
Lnh Giao Ch v nm 1590 trong Boxer
Codex v lnh cm c dt nga thi L. (Bo
tng Lch s Vit Nam).
ra lnh nghim cm tc ng kh.
87
Ngoi nhng hnh rng cun xm trn ngc,

bng v i, Trn Cng Trung cn miu t c k
Bn cnh , qua nhng nt v
tr vo ngc my ch (Ngha
th s trn thp gm hoa nu thi
d quyn khu, hnh vu bo quc tc v ngha qun
Trn, chng ta vn c th nhn ra
mnh, t lng bo quc). Ngay con em ca vua nc
hnh rng cun xm trn i nhng ngi lnh i Vit. Ton th chp:
ny cng nh vy. Ring binh lnh thi L, trn trn
Bui u dng nc, qun s u xm hoa vn hnh rng bng, lng
u xm ba ch (Thin t qun)(3) nh binh lnh thi Tin L(4).
v hai v i.(1) Cng c trng hp hnh rng c xm ngc, nh
Theo ghi chp ca Lnh ngoi i p th ba ch ny c xm theo
chnh Ton th ghi nhn: Ngi Tng thy trong b ng y c tn h
chiu ngang(5).
Tng n
(tc ngn).
Dng, ngc hn xm hnh rng en, v bn th lnh chu B nm

ngi, bit l ngi nc Vit ta, u tr v.(2) Chu Kh Phi miu t hnh
IV. TRANG PHC DN GIAN
xm trn ngi thi L nh hnh dng trng ng , cn s thn nh
1. Y phc
Nguyn Trn Cng Trung miu t hnh xm ca qun dn thi Trn
Tr li thi im cch nay 1000 nm, quc th i Vit ni chung,
(3)
l nhng hnh mc cu ni lin gp khc, nh hnh dng l nh bng

ng thi xa.
kinh thnh Thng Long ni ring l ni c tr ca nhiu tc ngi, cng
Nh vy, hnh xm m Chu Kh Phi v Trn Cng
c man n l, t binh nc ngoi. Ngay t nm 862, An Nam Kinh lc s
Trung miu t nhiu kh nng chnh l hoa vn rng cun trn c
Phn Xc ghi nhn: B lc Mang man [] nh lu, khng c thnh
trng ca thi k ny. Cn ni thm rng, vo thi L, vic xm hnh
quch, sn rng, u mc qun vi xanh, dng ct my qun quanh eo,
rng ln c th tng b triu nh cm p dng i vi thn phn n l
vi sn qun bi tc, bung phn tha ra pha sau lm trang sc. n
(4)
v y t, nh o lnh cui nm 1118 cm gia n xm hnh rng ln

ngi, o lut ban hnh vo thng 6 nm 1157 quy nh gia n ca
cc vng hu khng c xm hnh rng ngc
b khoc o sa la ng sc. Chim cng lm t trn cy nh h. Voi to nh

con tru. Tc ngi th nui voi cy rung, t c phn ca n []
v.v. Vo thi Trn,
Ngy 21 thng 12 nm Hm Thng th 3 (tc 862), cng c tc Mang man


4. (Trung) S Giao thi tp. Nguyn vn:
1. Vn dm ca Marco Polo. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.20
3. (Vit) Ton th. Mc thng 8 ma Thu nm 1059. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Tng S. Giao Ch truyn. Tr.14061. Nguyn vn:

5. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: . Qun nhn u xm ngang ln
trn ba ch Thin t binh. y Chu Kh Phi chp lm ch Binh.
(5)
ny qun t b sng T Lch An Nam n
en, ci trm bc hoc st, i dp da,
hai ba nghn i . Phong kh hn hu cht
cm qut lng hc, i nn c. Dp
phc, tp tc mng mn an xen t kinh
da, dng da lm , gia thm tr nh,
k, n cui thi H vn c Nguyn Phi
ly ngn chn kp li m i. Qut, tt
Khanh ghi li bng cu th: Trng An t xa
t lng chim hc, trnh rn. Nn
l t vng [] Phong tc ln vi Di
c, an t lt trc, hnh dng nh con
Lo, nhn dn nh thi thi c. Cao Hng
c, trng tinh xo nht. Ph n nhiu
Trng, tc gi An Nam ch nguyn cng ghi
ngi trng tro, khc hn n ng,
nhn: Nhng ni thnh quch trng yu
thch mc o trc lnh mu lc thng
tp np gn ng chim ngng, phn
tay, u tht bng thng en.(1)
(1)
88
(2)
Mnh ph Vit Nam thi L mc o trc lnh

mu lc. (Tp ch T Cm Thnh); Ph n
thi L mc o c trn, dng vy quy li
bn ngoi. (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
ln phng theo kiu cch Trung Hoa. Nhng
Nh vy, cch n mc ngy
ni bin phng lng x thn xm xa vn
thng ca n ng thi L gm
noi theo thi c, cha thay i ht c.
hai chic o c trn mc lng ghp.
Nh vy, trang phc trong dn gian ng
Chic o ngoi cng x bn vt, di lp o ny c quy mt dng
thi hn rt a dng.
xim mu en, cn c gi l thng, bn trong cng l chic qun la
(3)
o c trn bn vt, bn trong

quy Thng en, trong cng
mc qun l trng. (Phc dng);
Dp quai ngang thi Nguyn (K
thut ca ngi An Nam).
89
Tuy nhin, xt ring din trang phc
trng, tng t li n mc ca quan dn thi Trn theo li m t ca L
ngi Vit sng trong thnh, Chu Kh Phi
Tc. Chu Kh Phi cn nhn xt, nhng ngi Vit i giy tt do chi
cho bit: Ngi nc y o thm, rng en,
ph phng trng khng khc ngi nc ta (tc ngi Tng)(2). Triu Nh
bi tc chuy k, i t, sang hn u nh vy.
Thch, tc gi Ch Phin ch (nm 1225) cng c li bnh tng t v
Vua ngy thng cng vy, song ci trm vng, trn mc o Sam vng, di
ngi i Vit rng trang phc v m thc kh ging Trung Quc, song
mc thng ta. Nhng ngi cn li, ngy thng trn th vn o Sam
khc bit l nam n u i chn t(3). Ngoi ra, vic thng xuyn mang
en c trn b st, bn vt nh o Bi T, gi l o T in; di th vn
theo qut c th coi l mt trong nhng c im ni bt ca ngi Vit
thng en. Hoc c k ci trm st, c k i dp da, tay cm qut lng hc,
tri t thi L n thi Nguyn. Nh nm 1621, Cristophoro Borri cng
u i nn hnh c [] n b trng tro, khc hn n ng. Thng en
miu t ngi Vit ng Trong: C n ng n b u a cm qut rt
l phc sc quy bn ngoi ca n ng.
ging nh chu u. H cm l cm ly l thi.(4)
(4)
M oan Lm tham kho ghi
chp ca Chu Kh Phi, ng thi ch thch: Nhng ngi cn li u mc
i vi trang phc ca n gii, qua miu t ca M oan Lm, ph
o c trn bn vt, o Sam en khng tht lng, di o Sam tht thng
n i Vit u thch mc o trc lnh mu lc, thng tay, u tht bng

vy en. Khi nim o trc lnh thng c hiu l o giao lnh, s d
1. (Trung) Man th - Q.4 - Danh loi t. Nguyn vn: []
[]862
2. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tuyn chiu bi bit Vn ph Nguyn Vim. Tr.447. Nguyn vn:

[]
3. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Quyn 2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.59-60. Nguyn vn:

[]
[]
gi trc lnh (c thng) ch yu nhm phn bit vi loi o vin lnh (c

trn). Thch danh nh ngha: Trc lnh, c o chch thng xung, giao
1. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho. Nguyn vn:

3. (Trung) Ch phin ch - Giao Ch quc. Nguyn vn:
4. X ng Trong 1621. Tr.56.
nhau pha di.(1) Vo thi L,

loi o trc lnh ht sc ph bin,
90
91
p dng cho c n ng v n b.
Nm 1744, nh L sau khi t nha
mn Trn ph Thun Ha lin
xung ch d buc ngi x ng
Trong phi thay i y phc, quay
v tc l ca min Bc; t d ny
vit: Y phc bn quc vn c ch
[] Nhng loi qun o kiu
ngi Khch thng mc m nay
vn thy nn i theo th ch ca
Tng th n thi Bc Tng trong in Thnh

Mu n Tn T thnh ph Thi Nguyn, Trung
Quc; Ph n H Ni nm 1645 (Vn quc
nhn vt . Nht Bn).
nc nh
(ch tc nh L, min Bc)
[]
n ng n b dng o trc lnh

ngn tay (tay o chm n c tay), ng tay
1. Din vin Cho Thu Huyn trong vai Sy Vn. (nh: TQ); 2. Ph n Vit thi L (Hong
Thanh chc cng ); 3-4. Ph n ng Ngoi v ng Trong nm 1590 trong Boxer Codex.
2. Kiu tc
Ngi Vit c cu tc ng Ci rng ci tc l gc con ngi th
rng hp cho c ty tin. C iu, sau khi nh Nguyn thng nht t
hin s coi trng rng tc nh phn din mo trc tip biu hin nhn
nc, mt trong nhng lnh cm y phc thi Minh Mng cng bao gm
cch. Theo thm m quan ca ngi Vit xa kia, mi tc di mt, hm
iu cm o giao lnh i vi ph n .
rng en nhnh mi c coi l p. Tuy nhin, khc vi tnh n nh
(2)
(3)
Ngoi ra, chng ti tn ng kin ca TS. on Th Tnh khi cho
ca tc nhum rng en, kiu tc Vit tri qua nghn nm c nhiu
rng dng o di T thn ca ph n Vit c nhiu nt tng ng vi o
bin i, khng phi thi no cng c m tp n nht n ng bi t,
Bi t ca ph n nh Tng , ng thi cho rng dng o T thn c
n b vn khn nh n tng chung ca ngi Vit hin i v t tin
lu hnh v ph bin vo thi k ny. Xt v kiu dng, o Bi T v o t
trong qu kh. Qua kho st t liu hnh nh v vn t tng quan, c th
thn u l loi o x t hai bn sn, c hai vt kiu i khm, c o c vin
thy ngi Vit t thi L n thi Nguyn tng nhiu kiu tc khc
chy thng xung di, di qu gi. o Bi t thnh hnh vo thi Tng,
nhau, song nhn chung c bn cch tc ph bin, bao gm: 1. bi tc
trn t hong hu phi tn, di ti ca k, t thip trong cc bui l tip, yn
chuy k; 2. co trc; 3. ct tc ngn; 4. xa tc di. Trong , bi tc chuy
hi u mc. Loi o T thn thi Nguyn thng thy l loi o hp tay,
k (bi tc c hnh) l kiu tc thnh hnh vo thi L, v l kiu tc n
tuy nhin t thi L tr v trc, ng tay o rng hp u c ty nghi s
nht ca nam gii Vit thi Nguyn; tc co trc u thng thy thi
dng. Bn cnh , qua cc hnh v ngi Giao Ch trong Boxer Codex (nin
Trn; mi tc ngn chm vai ph bin vo thi Trn v L s; tc xa di
i 1590), c th thy trang phc vy, ym kt hp vi chic o cc tng t
c a chung vo thi L - Trnh. Ti phn ny, chng ti i su lm r
nh trang phc ph n Mng thi nay cng l dng trang phc ph bin
bi tc chuy k. Tc ct tc ngn v bung xa tc di, chng ti s ln
ca ph n Vit thi L, thm ch c th truy ti thi L Trn.
lt trnh by ti phn kho v kiu tc ca ngi thi Trn v thi L.
(4)
S liu sm nht cp ti vic ngi Vit bi tc chuy k l S k

1. (Trung) Thch danh Thch y phc:
2. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: []
[]
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn:
4. Trang phc Thng Long H Ni. Tr.55.
ca T M Thin, vi dng miu t Triu nhim theo phong tc ca

ngi Vit bi tc chuy k, ngi di th gp Lc Gi(1). n th k III
1. (Trung) S k - L Sinh Lc Gi lit truyn. Nguyn vn:
92
sau Cng nguyn, Thi th Tit
bi tc. Nhan S C gii thch chuy k l bi tc bng mt nm tay, hnh
Tng trong t s xin chn Th
nh ci v(1). Kiu bi tc ny phn ln c bi sau u, thm ch di
s Giao chu miu t ngi
xung gy. Trng Thng trong Doanh nhai thng lm tp (th k XV)
Vit: Bi tc chuy k, i t,
miu t kiu tc ca ngi Chm n ng u b tc ri, n b bi tc
(mc o) chui u vt tri .
chuy k pha sau(2). Sch Cu ng th miu t bn v cng nc
Th k XI, Chu Kh Phi qua
Cao Ly bi tc chuy k pha sau, dng la sm tht quanh trn, sc
Lnh ngoi i p cho bit,
thm nhc bng vng(3), ng thi miu t ngi man vng Ty Nam
ngi Vit u mc o thm,
Trung Quc trai gi u bi tc chuy k, dng la tht li, ng xung
rng en, bi tc chuy k, i
pha sau(4). Ring bi tc ca nam gii thi Nguyn, Mai Vin on
(1)
Diu i b nguyt (Nam Tng. BTCCBK).
t, khng phn sang hn, u
nh vy. Vua ngy thng cng vy, song ci trm vng.(2) Vo th k XV,
Trin cho bit: n ng bi tc sau nh u, sau vn khn.(5)

Kt hp nhng ghi chp trn y vi hnh nh ngi n ng thi
Cao Hng Trng dn Nam Vit ngoi k miu t ngi Vit hoc bi tc
kn trn cn mui ng Sn, hnh nh ngi ph n
chuy k, hoc ct tc ngn, xm mnh, i t, ming , rng en, sang
trn trng ng ng X, u tng ngi men nu
hn u n tru cau . u th k XIX, Phm nh H ghi nhn: Nay
sm thi L v hng lot t liu nh chp ngi Vit
tc nc ta (tc thi Nguyn) bi tc chuy k, vn khn vi thm. Nm 1835,
Nam thi Nguyn, c th thy bi tc ca ngi dn
Thi nh Lan ngi Thanh m t ph n Vit Trung Nam k ra ngoi
Vit hu ht to c nm tay chch sau nh u, thm
bun bn, bi tc chuy k, i chn t, dng la qun u, i nn l c
ch di xung gn gy, khc vi bi tc gn nh nh
nh phng .
u ca nam gii Trung Quc thi Tng - Minh v nam
(3)
(4)
(5)
Tuy nhin cn nhn mnh
gii ngi Triu Tin. Bi tc chuy k vo thi Nguyn
rng, kiu tc chuy k khng phi
c gi l bi tc c hnh, c kiu, hay n gin l
kiu tc ca ring ngi Vit. y
bi t. Vo thi L, ngoi bi tc c hnh, ngi Vit
cng l kiu bi tc chung ca
cn ct tc ngn hoc xa tc. n thi Trn, thi L,
nhiu tc ngi, trong c ngi
nhng ai tc xa di khi no cn thun tin li bi
Chn Lp(6), Chim Thnh v.v. Xt
mt bi tc sau u, nh chng ta c th thy hai
danh xng chuy k , chuy c
pho tng lnh hu th k XVIII ti lng Dinh Hng, tng lnh dng
(7)
ngha l ci v, phn ln c u
kh to hoc hnh trn , k l
(8)
Ngi thi kn trn cn mui thi ng Sn

(Bo tng Lch s Tp.HCM. nh: TQ).
Tng u ngi
thi L (C vt
Thng Long H Ni)
nh Th H, Bc Giang v.v. Tuy nhin, vo thi L s, bi tc chuy k

tng c coi l biu hin ca s lc hu, l phong tc ca nhng sc
dn bin vin. T chiu ban ngy mng 6 thng 11 nm 1470 c on
1. (Trung) Tam quc ch - Ng th - Tit Tng truyn. Nguyn vn: .

3. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng Quan l. Nguyn vn:

5. (Trung) Hi Nam tp tr. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) Chn Lp phong th k. Tr.17. Nguyn vn: [] trai gi u bi tc chuy k,
i chn t
7. Chuy k c ba cch vit: , , Trong , u l cch dng gi t. Cch vit chun
l
8. Hin i Hn ng t in. Tr.217.
1. (Trung) Hn th - L Lng truyn. Nguyn vn:

Hai ngi u mc y phc ca ngi H, bi tc chuy kt. Nhan S C ch thch: Kt ( y)
c l K, bi tc bng mt nm tay, hnh nh ci v. Dn theo zdic.net mc t chuy k
2. (Trung) K lc vng bin - Q.63 - Doanh nhai thng lm tp - Chim Thnh. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Cu ng th - Ch cu - m nhc nh - Cao Ly nhc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Cu ng th - Lit truyn nht bch t thp tht - Nam man - Ty Nam man. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) An Nam phong tc sch. Nguyn vn:
93
nh nh may ln n tn chp [...] Chn i giy tt, do chi ph phng,

trng khng khc ngi nc ta, song nhn khn ca h th c th nhn
94
ra.(1) Qua miu t trn, c th thy khn bc tc ca ngi thi L l

mt dng khn vn. Khn ny c vn kn nh u, to np gp trn
dng ch Nht , ring phn chp c x l thnh dng khum trn.
y khng phi li vn khn to bn, cng knh nh ngi ng Trong
sau nm 1744, cng khng hon ton ng nht vi kiu vn l nh
u, ch vn quanh trn v bi tc ph bin ca nam gii thi Nguyn.
Cn lu rng, ch t sau nm 1744, ngi Vit ng Trong mi
bt u bi tc, vn khn phn bit vi ngi nh L min Bc, theo
chnh sch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot.
D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu
Chc cng ha quyn (rng 29.5 cm, di 580 cm, hin lu gi ti Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh)
c v bi ha s cung nh nh Minh, Cu Anh (1494? - 1552). Trong ha quyn ny xut hin
cc on cng s ca nc Ty H, i Liu, Tam Pht T... u l cc nc tn ti vo th k
XIII. Bc ha trn xut hin dng ch An Nam h (Nc An Nam mng) trn l c nn chng
ti ng rng, on cng s ny c th l on cng s ca nh L. Cu Anh c l chp li mt
bc tranh c t trc . Cn lu rng, cc nhn vt th hin trong bc ha ny hu ht u
vn khn. (China: The Three Emperors 1662 1795).
vit: Thi Thi Tng Vn hong , bn trong sa sang, bn ngoi nh

dp, nhng k mc xim c, bi tc chuy k cng tro ni vt bin ti
chu, mun ni mn c, tm ci phc uy(1). Ch n thi Nguyn, bi
tc chuy k mi c thng nht p dng cho nam gii trong ton quc.
i vi kiu tc ca vua quan nh L, Chu Kh Phi cho bit vua nh
L vo ngy thng khng phi thit triu cng bi tc chuy k, ch khc
l ci thm trm vng. Ton th ghi nhn vic vua L Hu Tng pht
in, c khi t xng l thin tng ging trn, cm cy c nh ln bi
tc(2). Da vo cch ni ca Chu Kh Phi, c l trong nhng bui thit
triu, i l, vua quan nh L khng bi tc chuy k nh ngy thng. C
th h bi mt bi tc nh u nh vua quan nh Tng, cng c th
thc lc ghi nhn: (Nm 1744) Cha bn

thay y phc, i phong tc, cng dn i
mi, bt u h lnh cho nam n s th
trong nc, u mc o nhu bo, mc qun,
vn khn.(2) Tuy nhin n nm 1792, ch
c mt s ngi ng Trong vn khn, c
bit l lnh nh b. John Barrow trong Mt
chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792 1793) cho bit: Mi tc en di ca h i
khi c qun thnh bi c nh trn nh
Lnh ng Trong nm 1793 di nt

v ca William Alexander.
u, i khi c bung lng thnh nhng

ln tc r xung sau lng, thng l ti tn mt t. Mt s ngi cht
khn qun u, c hnh dng ging nh chic khn xp ca ngi Hi
gio(3). Chng ti t gi thit, c th tc vn khn ca ngi ng Trong
sau nm 1744, chu nh hng t phong tc ca ngi Trung ng gin
tip qua tc vn khn ca ngi Chm hoc ngi Thi. Ring ngi
Chm, trc th k XV cng cha c tc vn khn nh ta thy hin nay.
bung xa tc nh vua quan nh L?

Ngoi ra, Chu Kh Phi cn miu t ngi Vitly cao thm chut
tc nh sn, bc khn the en, nh trn v nh, t trn tr ln, np gp

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: (Nm
1217)
1. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.59-60. Nguyn vn:

[]
2. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc. Q.8. Tr.3. Nguyn vn:
3. Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792-1793). Tr.83
95
Ph lc 1
96
MT S GHI CHP LIN QUAN TI TRANG PHC CHIM THNH

T TH K VI N TH K XV
Ct Bi, hoa cy y khi m bng nh lng ngng, rt si ra dt lm vi th khng khc

vi gai(1). Ting Pali: kappsa. Ting Khmer: Kupah) qun ngang t eo tr xung,
gi l Can Mn, cng gi l Mn; x l tai eo khuyn nh. Ngi sang

i dy da, k hn i t. T Lm p, Ph Nam ti cc nc pha Nam u
nh vy. Vua nc y mc php phc, eo thm di anh lc, trang sc
nh tng Pht [] Qu ph mt mnh th xa tc n gi(2).
Nam T th (th k VI): Vua i m Thin quan nh m Pht, mnh
Cu ng th (th k X): Vua mc o ip trng (ip: vi len mn; L
khoc di anh lc thm (Tn th chp khng c ch thm. Anh lc l chui dy
Qu n dn sch Thng gim cho bit ngi man Nht Nam dt bng lm vi, trn
tt bng cc loi chu ngc eo c, vn l trang sc eo trn tng Pht. Ting Pali:
Keyra)
Ph n khi ci mc o gi lam (o nh cha?) kh ngang may
khp li nh thnh ging, u i hoa bo (Tn th chp l bo hoa) [] Khi

c tang th ct tc, coi l o hiu(1).
Ty th (th k VII): Vua i m hoa
vng, hnh dng nh m Chng Ph, mc
o may bng vi Triu h (rng my sm, c l
ch hoa vn?), khoc di anh lc nh cc lot
ngc chu, chn i dp da, cng c khi li

mc o gm Ngi nc y mt su mi
cao, tc qun da en, tc u i t, dng
kh vi qun ngi, ma ng mc o kp.
Ph n bi tc chuy k [] (Khi c tang)
n ng n b u ct tc, theo m ma
n bn nc, au bun tt bc ri thi,
khi tr v th khng khc na(2).
c ch nh xen ln c hoa, rt kho lo, gi l vi ip trng(3)),
C Bi, qun cho
vai, vng quanh eo, bn trn eo thm ht trn chu, kha vng, lm
thnh di anh lc, tc qun, u i (m) hoa. Phu nhn mc o lm
bng vi Triu h, vy ngn lm bng vi C Bi, u i (m) hoa vng,
mnh eo di anh lc kt ngc chu, kha vng. Th v ca nh vua c
nm ngn tn lnh, tho dng n v kch, dng my lm gip, ly tre lm
cung, ci voi chin u [] Cha m mt, con co tc m khc(4).
i Vit s lc: (Nm 1069) Vua (ch vua L Thnh Tng) t Chim
Thnh v [] ngi ng trn xe bu, qun thn u ci nga dn ng.
Vua Chim Thnh C (tc Ch C, Rudravarman III) i m Ma Ct (ma: vi
gai; ct: xng; Ma Ct c l l phin m tn gi ca ngi Chm), mc o may bng
vi ip trng, dng la tht lng. Vua lnh cho nm ngi thuc Hng
V dn i, li tri bn ng thuc a i cng.(5)
Ch Phin ch: Vua Chm [] i m vng, mnh eo anh lc []
Ngi Chm a sch s, mt ngy tm bn nm ln, ly long no, x
hng bi ln c th, li t cc loi hng xng o.(6)
Nam s (th k VII): n ng n b

u dng kh vi C Bi (cng gi l Ct Bi.
Thn Siva, tng Chm, c eo anh
lc, qun ngn l v i. (BTLSVN)
L Qu n dn sch n trai nhn lm cho bit:

T Mn Lnh tr v pha Nam c nhiu cy go.
Ngi bn th ua nhau trng bng, c n my
nghn gc, hoa ca n dng lm vi, gi l vi Ct Bi. Li nh cc nc Lm p c cy
1. (Trung) Nam T th - Q.58 - Lit truyn tam thp cu - Man - ng Nam di - Nam di - Lm p quc.
Nguyn vn: [][]
2. (Trung) Ty th - Q.82 - Lit truyn t thp tht - Nam man - Lm p. Nguyn vn :

[]
[]
1. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Nam s - Q.78 - Lit truyn lc thp bt - Di mch thng - Lm p quc. Nguyn vn :
[]
3. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Cu ng th - Q.197 - Lit truyn 147 - Ty Nam man - Lm p. Nguyn vn:
[]
6. (Trung) Ch phin ch - Chim Thnh quc. Nguyn vn: [][]
97
Tng s: Ngi nc Chm khng c t tm, dng vi ip trng

98
Ph lc 2
qun ngc, bung xung chn, mc o hp tay, tm tc thnh bi, bung

ln tha ra sau [] Vua nc y bi tc ta k sau u (ch kiu bi
MT S GHI CHP V HNH NH LIN QUAN TI V NHC
mt ln tc pha sau, sau y ln nh u, dng kp c nh li, tc
VIT NAM THI L TRN
tha bung ra pha sau), khoc o Ct Bi, i m sc hoa bng vng,

dng di anh lc tt bng by loi qu lm trang sc, v i u l c,
i dp da, khng x tt. Ph n cng bi tc sau u, khng ci trm,
trang phc v cch chp ly nh n ng [] Tng Hy Ninh nm th 9
(tc 1076),
vua Chm 36 tui, mc o thng ln may bng gm i thc
hoc gm Xuyn php, khoc by di anh lc bng vng, i m vng

sc by loi qu, i giy da . Vua xut cung lin c nm trm ngi
theo hu, mi ph n bng trp vng ng tru cau i trc lm vui.(1)
c Trai di tp: Ngi Chim ly khn che v i, l hnh th.(2)
Doanh nhai thng lm tp: Vua Chim l ngi Ta L (Ta L vn l
vng ven bin Coromandel, n . Tuy nhin y, cch ni ngi Ta L phim ch ngi n
ni chung), chung o Pht, i m hnh tam sn nh hoa vng lung linh,
pha trn mc o vi hoa phin nh dng la th Min tru, pha di

qun khn t mu sc s my vng, i chn t ci voi hoc ngi xe
nh c hai con ngh ko. Cc quan i m l c (nguyn vn dng t giao chng
dip. Khang Hy t in cho bit: giao l loi c kh, chng l c), cng ging m ca vua,
trang sc bng vng, (pha di qun) khn sc s [] (Chim Thnh)

cho php c mc mu ta, ring vua mc trng, cm mc cc mu
en huyn, mu vng, k no lm tri th b ti cht. n ng tc ri, n
b bi tc chuy k pha sau, da d u ngm en, pha trn mc o ngn
cc tay, pha di cng qun vi sc s, u l trang phc ca n b vy
[] H nhai tru cau lun ming nh tc ca ngi Mn, Vit(3).
Mt s hnh tng v cng thi L Trn (Cha Vit Nam, iu khc c Vit Nam)
Ton th: Thng 7, nm 1044, vua (L Thi Tng) em qun vo

thnh Pht Th bt v c, v l ca S u v cc cung n gii ht ma
khc iu Ty Thin. Nm 1046, (thi L Thi Tng) dng cung ring cho cc
cung n Chim Thnh. Thng 8, nm 1060, (thi L Thi Tng) phin dch
nhc khc v iu nh trng ca Chim Thnh, sai nhc cng ca ht.
Thng 8, nm 1202, (thi vua L Cao Tng) Sai nhc cng ch khc nhc gi
1. (Trung) Tng s - Q.489 - Lit truyn 248 - Ngoi quc ng - Chim Thnh. Nguyn vn:
[]
[]
.
2. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Tr.31. Nguyn vn: .
[]
[]
.
l nhc Chim Thnh, ting trong tro, ai on bun ru, ngi nghe phi
chy nc mt. Thng 10, ma ng, nm 1268, thng hong (Trn Thi
Tng) mc o bng trng, Tnh Quc ma iu ma ca ngi H, thng
hong ci o ban cho.

An Nam tc s: (khong 1288-1293) Tng t chc yn tic ti in Tp
Hin, trai gi ht tr mi bn mi ngi, u ngi xung t, c cc loi
n t b, tu (thanh trc nh, c th l so?), n tranh, nht huyn (mt dy, c
99
th l n bu?). Li ca ha vi ting n, khi ht th ngn r ron trc (c th
100
l li ht r ren?), sau mi ht li. Di in c cc tr din xic, leo ct, ma
ri u gy, li c k mc qun gm ci trn va nhy nht va h ht. n

b i chn t, mng tay mi ngn ci di ci ngn [] Hn mi ngi
n ng u ci trn, khoc vai nhn chn, i thnh vng trn ht mt hi
lu. mi hng c mt ngi gi tay th hn mi ngi khc u gi tay,
khi bung tay cng th. Ca khc th c cc bi Trang Chu mng ip, Bch
Lc thin mu bit t, Vi sinh ngc tiu, p ca, ho ca. Ring bi Thn th
thi th thit nht, song nghe khng th hiu c. Khi tu i nhc trn
in trong bui i yn th dn nhc c tu sau hnh lang, khng nhn
thy nhc c v nhc cng. Mi khi chuc ru th ln ting h tu khc
nhc no , ngi di hnh lang lin ng ting tu ln. Cc khc nhc
c khc Ging hong long, Nhp hong , Yn Dao tr, Nht giang phong,
m iu rt c, nhng ngn gt(1).
Tng v cng thi L trn b cha Hoa Long, x Vnh Thnh, huyn Vnh Lc,
Thanh Ha (nh: TQ).
1. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - An Nam tc s. Tr.180. Nguyn vn:
[]
101
Chng II. TRANG PHC THI TRN
Nm 1225, Trn Th p nh L chuyn giao quyn lm ch x

tc sang tay h Trn thng qua cuc hn phi gia L Chiu Hong v
Trn Cnh. Hn 50 nm sau phng Bc, triu nh nh Tng b qun
Nguyn Mng tiu dit, quyn lm ch Trung Hoa ri vo tay tc
ngi c coi l ngoi di. Ngay t khi thnh lp, vi dc vng bnh
trng lnh th, quc Nguyn Mng lm le b ci ca cc nc ln
bang, nhiu ln s dng th on vi triu nh i Vit. Song iu ny
ch khin chnh sch ngoi giao ca nh Trn i vi nh Nguyn thm
cng rn v nhiu khi t ra bt hp tc.
n c vic cng voi, trong khi
nh L ch ng cng cho nh Tng
9 con voi thun vo nm 1156(1),
sau cng 5 voi thun vi 5 qun
tng i theo, ri 10 voi c ng
ln vi 10 qun tng i theo trong
hai t cng lin tip nm 1173(2),
th nm 1269, mc cho s thn Ht
Voi ch kinh sch ca vua Trn Nhn Tng.
(Trc Lm i s xut sn . Cc b).
Lung Hi Nha truyn t ca vua

Nguyn mun tm my con voi ln,
vua Trn Thi Tng vn thoi thc ni: Loi th ny thn mnh rt ln,
i li chm chp, khng bng nga ca thng quc.(3) Nm 1270, vua
1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Phin di nht - Giao Ch. Mc ngy 21 thng 8 nm 26 nin hiu Thiu
Hng (1156). Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Phin di nht - Giao Ch. Mc ngy 4 thng 7 nm th 9 nin hiu Cn o
(1173). Nguyn vn: []; []
3. (Trung) Nguyn s. Q.209. An Nam truyn. Nguyn vn:
102
Nguyn xung lnh i voi v yu cu triu cng hng nm, vua Trn
p ny, trong qu trnh nc Tng i
Thnh Tng gi th sang gii thch: V li d tm voi, trc s tri
n dit vong, v s binh tng, quan
ch, nn loanh quanh cha dm ni thng. Thc ra, duyn do l v qun
dn ngi Tng u ln lt sang xin
tng khng n xa nh, kh sai h khi hnh.(1) V phi 7 nm sau, nm
quy ph i Vit
(iu ny lp li cui thi
1278, sau khi nh Tng hon ton b tiu dit, nh Trn mi ln u
Minh)
cng cho nh Nguyn 2 con voi(2).
mn Tng, trong vic pht trin vn ha
Quai vng bng ng thi Trn.

(Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
103
. Xut pht t tm l ght Nguyn
(1)
S xut hin ca qun Nguyn
i Vit sau khi kt thc chin tranh,
Mng ti Trung Quc v hnh trung
vua quan nh Trn va k tha, pht
thc y mi quan h Vit - Tng
huy in chng vn hin vn c ca
thm hu ho. Sau khi qun Nguyn
nh L, va tip tc p dng mt phn
xm chim v s t ai ca nh
quy ch ca nh Tng, kin quyt bi
Tng, vua ti nh Tng b buc phi
xch ch ca nh Nguyn.
di xung Giang Nam b gi trong
thc c s bt ng v vn ha,
phn t cht hp, khin giao thng
phong tc, trong li d vua ti i Vit
1. Vua Nguyn Anh Tng; 2. Vua

Nguyn Th T; 3. Hong hu ca vua
Nguyn Thun Tng; 4. Hong hu ca
vua Nguyn Th T. (C cung).
Bc Nam tr nn ch tc. Nm 1242, vua Trn Thi Tng sai tng sang
vo thng 12 nm 1260, vua Nguyn chp nhn: Quan li dn chng,
nh chim bin gii thng hiu vi nc Tng. Trc ngha c ny,
phm o m, in chng, l nghi, phong tc c tun theo ch trc
nm 1243 vua Tng xung chiu, c bit gia tng vua Trn l Th
kia ca nc mnh.(2) Tuy nhin, du vua Nguyn ni ngon ngt, Hng
ngha cng thn (Cng thn gi ngha)(4). Tip nm 1257, nh Nguyn
o Vng vn thng thng gi ng ta l Di t (t trng di r) v t r ch
ly c Vn Nam, nhng mt nm sau, nh Trn li tip tc sai s sang
phn khng n cng trc s e da ca qun Mng Tht; vua Trn
thng hiu vi Tng . n khi nh Nguyn chnh thc lp quc vo
Minh Tng, sau khi nghe s gi bo tin vua Nguyn Anh Tng ln ngi,
nm 1271, t kinh ti Yn Kinh, th nm 1273, nh Trn vn tip tc
vit bi th c chc mng rng: Chu T Minh tip gip vi bin gii
sai s sang Tng biu tng phng vt . Thm ch, n nm 1276, vua
nc Vit, cch nhau chng bao xa. Ngn ng khng khc nhau nhiu (ch
Nguyn Th T Ht Tt Lit nh Giang Nam, sai Hp Tn Nhi Hi Nha
ngn ng Hn dng trong quan phng),
sang i Vit d su vic nh iu dn, gip qun nh Tng, nhng
c [] nh khng phn bit Hoa Di, (mong rng) u cng nhau bc
vua Trn Thnh Tng u khng nghe . D rng, mt trong nhng l
ln ci th.(3) Thi bi xch y phc nh Nguyn cn c Phm S
do ca vic thng xuyn thng hiu l nhm thm d tnh hnh qun
Mnh th hin qua bi th xng ha vi s thn nh Minh l D Qu:
Nguyn v t chng Nguyn ca nh Tng, song mi quan h Vit -
Triu nh mi (nh Minh) thay i ht phong tc ca ngi H (ngi
Tng du ni th no, t trong bi cnh ng thi vn c th coi l
Nguyn), o m l nhc li tr v vi quy ch nh Hn.(4) L T Tn, quan
mi quan h ha hiu v tin l. Chnh v bn duyn t mi quan h tt
vn th thi L s bn lun: T sau khi ngi Nguyn vo Trung Quc,
1. (Trung) Nguyn s. Q.209. An Nam truyn. Nguyn vn:
2. Phm Vn nh. Vn th ngoi giao thi Trn - Ni dung v Ngh thut. Trong Thng bo Hn Nm hc
2009. Tr.99-127.
3. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.19.
4. (Trung) Tng s - Bn k - Q.46 - Tng - Mc thng 2, nm u tin nin hiu Hm Thun.
5. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.28-29.
6. (Trung) Tng s - Bn k - Q.46 - Tng - Mc thng 3, nm th 9 nin hiu Hm Thun.
7. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.40.
1. Nh nm 1263, quan ph T Minh nc Tng l Honh Bnh em 1200 b thuc xin quy ph (Ton th.
Tp 2. Tr.33); nm 1274, 30 thuyn tr ngi Tng ko sang xin quy ph (Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.39); nm 1279,
khi nh Tng mt hn, nhiu binh s ngi Tng sang xin quy ph, c Trn Nht Dut thu np, sau ny h
cng c nhng ng gp khng nh trong vic nh bi gic Tc Ta (Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.55)
2. (Trung) Nguyn s - Q.209 - An Nam. Nguyn vn: ,
(3)
(5)
(6)
(7)
nhng ch o m khng ging nhau
104
o Bin Tuyn (Bo tng Ni Mng Trung Quc).

Tng v cng thi Nguyn (Bo tng H Nam
Trung Quc). Bin Tuyn l kiu o giao lnh, hp
tay, cht eo, di qu gi, thnh hnh vo thi Nguyn.
Ton th: Nm 1300, sau khi cuc khng chin
chng Nguyn Mng ln th 3 kt thc, vua Trn
Anh Tng ra lnh cho b quan vn v khng c
dng loi o c ng tay nh hn 8 tc (khong
di 30cm), phi s dng loi o tay thng, rng
t 9 tc n 1 thc 2 (khong t 36cm n 48cm).
thin h i ra ni ting H,
th no, s nh hng ca vn ha cung nh nh Tng ti i Vit thi
mc o H c. Khng thay
Trn suy yu i nhiu so vi nh hng vo thi Tin L v thi L,
i th ch c nc ta cng
khi nh Tng thnh tr.
h Chu Kim Lng, h Triu
Vo thi Trn, ho kh ng A tro dng si sc. Lc ny sau nhng
Kim Sn m thi. n khi
ci cch y phc thi vua Anh Tng, trang phc ca triu nh i Vit
Thi t nh Minh ln ngi,
nhn chung c nhng nt c sc ring, khng cn nht nht noi theo
sai Dch T Dn sang thng
quy ch quan phc ca nh Tng nh trc kia. C iu t thi vua
hiu, vua D Tng sai Don
D Tng tr v sau, triu nh bt u c nhng du hiu ri ren, lc
Thun Thn sang thm nh
c. Xt ring phng din vn ha, ngay t nhng nm i Tr, in
Minh. Vua Minh y lo hi
chng ch ca nh Trn c thay i i li, gy ra lm chuyn
quc s, khen phong tc v y
phin nhiu(1). c bit, trong thi gian ny, ch nh Trn m
phc vn l vn minh Trung
phng ch ca nh Tng qu mc, khin vua Ngh Tng ngay sau khi
Hoa, ban cho bi th ng
ln ngi bc bi ph nh sch trn nh hng ca Tng ch ti cc
ch rng: t An Nam c h
triu i trc y. ng ni: Tin
Trn, phong tc khng theo
triu m nc, t c php , khng
ngi Nguyn, o m theo

ch nh Chu, l nhc
nh vua ti nh Tng. Ri tng cho bn ch Vn hin chi bang.
(1)
Nh vy c th thy, ch o m i Vit di thi vua Trn D

Tng mang m sc thi ca l li Trung Hoa c i m vua Minh phim
ch ch ca nh Chu, nh Tng. Theo Ton th, vo nhng nm i
Tr (1358-1369), php , y phc, nhc chng ca triu nh i Vit
lin tip c sa i m kt qu ca nhng cuc sa i ny khin
php c ca t tng hng ht theo tc phng Bc (ch tc nh Tng).
Nhng trn thc t, trc nhng nm i Tr, nh Trn nhiu ln
p dng Tng ch nh nm 1237, phng Tng t chc l iu Khut
Nguyn v cc bc hin nhn thi c nh Gii T Thi vo dp Tt oan
tun theo ch nh Tng, chng

Nam Bc t lm nc y, khng
bt chc nhau. Nhng nm i
Tr, bn hc tr mt trng hnh s,
khng hiu thu c t t nh ca
vic lp php, bn em php c ca
t tng hng ht theo tc phng
Bc. Nhng th b trn t ra nh y
phc, nhc chng khng th k ht
c(2), ng thi ra lnh phi tr
b t chnh, phm mi vic u tun
ht theo iu l thi Khai Thi (1324-
Ng, hng nm c n thng ny th t chc (l iu)(2); nm 1250 vua
1329), cng tc l quy ch thi vua
Trn Thi Tng li xung chiu cho thin h gi vua l Quan gia, vn l
Minh Tng. Hc tr mt trng b
cch gi hong thnh hnh vo thi Tng
ch trch y chnh l triu thn L
(3)
v.v. Tuy nhin du ni
Tng Hng o Vng (khong th k

XVII) th ti miu Tin Cng, x Lin
Hoa, huyn Yn Hng, Qung Ninh. (nh:
Nguyn Th Dung).
B Qut, Phm S Mnh, nhng mn sinh u t ca i Nho thn Chu

1. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Tr.30. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.22. V cch gi vua nh Tng l Quan gia, tham kho Vng Dc T, Quan
Gia d Tng i ch l tnh nh v: D Tng Thi t triu vi l, Tp ch Vn S Trit, k 5 - 2006, Tr.75-81.

1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: , .
105
Vn An m ngay t thi vua Minh Tng mun sa sang ch , nhng

106
phi i n thi vua D Tng mi thc hin c tng ny.
Triu phc ca hong theo quy ch ca

nh Tng l loi trang phc s dng trong cc
Kt hp gia ghi chp ca Ton th, vn bia L Trn v An Nam ch
dp: T t v trai gii, ngy triu hi mng mt
lc, c th nhn nh s b rng: ch o m ca nh Trn k tha
Tt Nguyn n v mng mt thng Nm, ngy
mt phn ch y phc ca nh L, tip tc tham kho quy ch trang
sch mnh v khi ch thn cy rung Tch in.
phc ca nh Tng, thc hin ci cch mt s kiu o m cho vng hu
B Triu phc ny bao gm m Quyn Vn kt
b quan v hu nh khng chu nh hng no t ch y phc ca nh
hp vi Ging sa bo, tc o bo lm bng the ,
Nguyn.
phng tm khc lnh bng la trng, i i, t
107
tt v thng mu . B trang phc Quyn Vn

ca vua i Vit khng c L Tc miu t c
I. TRANG PHC HONG

Theo ghi nhn ca L Tc, vua nh Trn c tt c bn loi m, theo
th, tng t trng hp m Ph Dung.
th t cp ln lt l m Bnh Thin, m Quyn Vn, m Ph Dung
2. Thng phc Ph Dung
v m ng Cn. ng cng ng thi cho bit, trang phc Cn Min
Sch Thi Bnh ng lm thi Tng cho bit:
ca vua quan nh Trn c s dng trong cc dp i l, cn ng
Chn nhn ni ng Bch l Vng T Kiu,
Cn l m vua i vo ngy thng khi khng phi thit triu, cng tc
tui rt tr, oan chnh v cng, i m Ph
l Tin phc.
Dung, mc o . V Mu n nh ca Thang
Quy ch quan phc ca nh Tng quy nh, ngoi trang phc mc
Hin T thi Minh c on vit: o c gi ni
khi duyt binh v mc vo ngy thng, vua Tng c ba loi m chnh:
rng: M Ph Dung, tc ngn kh ci trm. (1)
L phc m Min, Triu phc m Thng Thin v Thng phc m
Sch Tam ti hi thi Minh chp: M Ph
Phc u . Vo thi Tng, m Thng Thin ca hong cn c tn
Dung l loi m tr, xung quanh khng c thn
gi l m Quyn Vn. Nh vy, nhiu kh nng m Quyn Vn v m
rim bng vi. Song cng c hai ba loi, c loi
Ph Dung ca vua nh Trn ln lt l hai loi m c s dng phn
tn T L, Nht Trn ng. M ny c gi l Ph Dung, bi hnh dng
bit trong cc bui i triu v Thng triu.
tng t (hoa sen).(2)
(1)
1. Triu phc Quyn Vn
Chn dung Tng Tuyn

T (Bo tng C cung i
Bc); Ging Sa bo kt hp
vi Phng tm khc lnh,
i i, T tt, thng, giy
Tch en.
Nh vy, m Ph Dung,
M Quyn Vn l tn gi khc ca m Thng Thin . Ng T
loi m th ba ca vua nh
Mc thi Tng cho bit: M Thng Thin ca vua Tng u dng ht
Trn theo ghi nhn ca L Tc,
Bc chu un kt li, cn gi l m Quyn Vn. Mnh Nguyn Lo thi
thng c bit n l mt
Tng cng m t: Hong i m Thng Thin, cn gi l m Quyn
dng m ca o gio. Loi
Vn, mc o bo , cm ngc khu. Chnh v dng m Thng Thin
m ny hin nay ti Trung
cao, chp m un cong ng v pha sau, trng nh ng my cun li nn
Quc vn c cc php s
c gi vi ci tn hnh tng l m Quyn Vn .
chp s s dng trong cc
(2)
1. (Trung) Tng s - Ch 104 - D phc tam. Nguyn vn:
Vua Tng c su loi trang phc, bao gm: o i Cu m Min; o Cn m Min; m Thng Thin - Ging
sa bo; L bo; Sam bo, Trch bo. Cc loi L bo, Sam bo, Trch bo u kt hp vi m Phc u.
2. Dn theo Trung Quc phc sc i t in. Tr.45.
M Quyn Vn Thng Thin trong cc bc ha thi

Tng (Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh).
kha l hoc din php(3).
1. Dn theo Trung Quc phc sc i t in. Tr.60.

2. (Trung) Tam ti hi - Y phc - Q.1. Nguyn vn:
3. o gio phc sc gin gii (http://www.qztao.org/taoism-3.html)
Vo thi Trn, Nho gio, o gio, Pht gio u c triu nh

i Vit coi trng, to nn cc din tam gio ng tn. Phn ln cc hc
gi u nht tr cho rng, di vng triu L - Trn, o Pht chim
u th hn c, song trn thc t, vng triu Trn tng rt hm m
o gio(1). Xt ring cch n mc, qua mt s miu t ca s thn nh
Nguyn, ta thy cc v vua nh Trn thng xut hin vi dng dp ca
mt v chn nhn hoc mt v thn tin thot tc. T nh la bc tc
mu trng ca vua Trn Nhn Tng c s thn Trn Cng Trung
miu t trng xa nh Lun cn ca o s(2). Vua Trn Minh Tng mc
o giao lnh mu vng, i m, tht dy thao d yn tic c s gi nh
Nguyn khen thanh thot ta nh thn tin, n khi v nc c ni mi
o Xng Hc ca o s Trung Quc (taoism.com).
v phong thi thanh t ca vua(3). Ngoi ra, Ton th cn cho bit Trn
Nht Dut tng mc o Xng Hc, i m nh o s lm ba php,
trn cho vua Trn Minh Tng khi m(4) v.v.
Quay tr li Thng phc ca vua nh Trn,
ngoi L Tc cp ti m Ph Dung trong An
Nam ch lc, khong nm 1329 thi vua Trn
Hin Tng, L T Xuyn vit Vit in u linh tp
cng nhc n loi m ny qua cu chuyn v hai
B Trng vi tiu Trng Thnh Vng. ng
k rng, hai b sau khi mt ha thnh tin, mt ln
vua L Anh Tng nm m, thy hai ngi con gi
i m Ph Dung, mc o mu lc, tht ai, ci
nga st, ui gi vn my bay qua trc mt(5).
Vic hai B Trng i m Ph Dung hn ch
l sn phm tng tng ca L T Xuyn, song
i chiu vi An Nam ch lc, chng ti nhn
M Ph Dung (Tam ti
hi); M Ph Dung bng
ngc thi Tng (Bo tng
Nam Kinh).
thy trong li k ca ng t nht c mt chi tit st vi thc t, l vo

thi Trn m Ph Dung l mt trong nhng loi m ca vng. Mt
khc, c th thy hnh tng hai B Trng xut hin nh hai v tin n,
Thi Thng Lo Qun v Nguyn Thy Thin Tn, hai trong ba v Tam Thanh ca o Gio,
cng cc v tin theo hu u i m Ph Dung. (o Gio chng thn thnh tng).
1. V Phng Lan. Vng triu Trn v Tam gio. Tp ch Nghin cu tn gio. S 4. 2006. Tr.35, 40.
2. (Trung) S Giao thi tp. Nguyn vn: ,
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1314. Nguyn vn:

5. (Vit) Vit in u linh tp - Lch i nhn qun - Trng Thnh Vng. Nguyn vn:
109
110
m trang phc ca hai b cng mang dng dp
quan li binh lnh trong tranh cng mang nhng nt c trng ca thi
ca o gia. Cc vn bn Lnh Nam chch qui
L Trung Hng, cho nn kiu m ng Cn trong bc tranh ch mang
sau ny cng chp li ni dung tng t, song
tnh cht tham kho, khng th c coi l c liu phc dng kiu m
b trang phc kt hp vi loi m ny c i
thi Trn. Bn cnh , vo thi Nguyn, ng Cn c quy nh l
ch khc bit. C th:
m Thng phc ca hong v l m Triu phc ca hong thi t,
- Vit in u linh tp, KH: A.1919 chp:
song kiu dng hon ton thot ly khi loi m cng tn thi ng
(o mu lc, tht ai).
Tng Minh. C iu, i vi loi m ng Cn c vua nh Trn
- Lnh Nam chch qui, KH: VHv.1473
i vo ngy thng, chng ti cho rng, y vn l loi m Tin phc
chp: (o bo mu lc, tht ai).
c kiu dng tng t loi m ng Cn thi ng - Tng, khng c
- Lnh Nam chch qui, KH: A.33 chp:
s bin cch ln nh loi m cng tn thi Nguyn.
(o mu lc, ai mu son).
- M Ln dt s, KH: A.1516 chp:
(o mu lc, thng mu son).
Tuy nhin, L Tc li cho bit vo
thi Trn, i vi trang phc ca vng,
Thng phc coi mu trng l cao qu, ngi
trong nc m mc mu trng th b coi l tim
ch, ring ph n khng cm(1). Nh vy, trang
phc Thng triu ca vua nh Trn phn
nhiu l o bo mu trng. Mu trng cng l
Vua Trn Anh Tng trong

Trc Lm i s xut sn .
phc sc a chung ca vua Chim Thnh.

3. Tin phc
Chu Kh Phi miu t vua L ngy thng bi tc ci trm vng,
mc o Sam vng, thng mu ta. Trn Cng Trung miu t vua Trn
ring bi tc ca vua bc li bng la trng, trng xa nh Lun cn ca
o s. L Tc cn cho bit Vua ngy thng i m ng Cn.(2)
Vua ng Thi Tng (tri) v vua ng Cao Tng (phi) (C Cung tng tuyn
ty). Vua L Nam ( gia) (Tranh sn mi th k XVIII, Bo tng Thi Bnh).
ng Cn vn l loi m vua ng i vo ngy thng, c
Nh trn cp, Ton th m t trang phc d tic ca vua Trn
lm bng the en, tng t kiu dng m Phc u thi ng, ring
Minh Tng cho bit vua mc o giao lnh mu vng bng l, i m,
hai cnh chun c ct lm bng ct my, bung ra sau, choi sang hai
tht dy thao(1). Cng trong dp ny, s thn nh Nguyn lm bi th
bn thnh hnh ch Bt (3). Bc tranh sn mi th hin hnh tng vua
tn tng v p ca vua Trn Minh Tng, miu t ngi ung dung trong
L Nam khc ha ng i kiu m ny. Tuy nhin, v bc tranh

l sn phm ca tr tng tng dn gian thi Hu L, trang phc ca
1.(Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn: Cc bn dch ting Vit u dch
l nh i khn tu, cch hiu v dch nh vy khng chnh xc.
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.109
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1314. Nguyn vn: . y cn ni thm,

cm (ng cn thao) trong cc bn dch hin nay, c dch l i m c thao. Kt cu Cn - Thao
l kt cu ng lp, khng phi kt cu chnh ph, cho nn cch hiu v dch nh vy khng chnh xc. Tuy
nhin cch dch ny tip tc nh hng ti bn dch L triu hi in (2009), t thao () nht lot c dch
thnh i m dy thao (Tr.193, 196). y, ng cn thao nn hiu l i m, tht thao. T ng c
dng phim ch vic vua lm. Nm 1437, hong nh L mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, nguyn
vn Ton th cng vit: Hong ng Hong bo, Xung Thin quan. ()
111
b o m vi di ngc bi c
vng, to nh dy tha khc bit.
v di thn . Thn cng tc
Thn vng mc o bo ta dt
l i i, l di ai tht lng,
vng, tc hu v tc minh t
c lm bng la, hai ui
mc o bo thu hnh phng c,
ai di bung thng, c th
t i liu ban tr xung mc Cn
thy ph iu Ng gia th bi
Min ty theo cp bc. Ban vn
(1)
112
thi Trn. Dy thao c Ton

th nhc n cng c dng
o giao lnh vng kt hp vi ng Cn, thao v

i i (Phc dng. Tranh: TQ); Tng quan hu
triu Trn ti lng vua Trn Hin Tng tht dy thao.
(ng Triu, Qung Ninh. nh: TQ); Nho s Triu
Tin tht thao v i i; Nho s thi Minh, tht
thao v i i (mingyiguan).
113
eo thm Kim Ng i. Vin ngoi

lang, lang tng i m Min c
tht lng, chng ta cn c
cc vin vng bc an xen; t lnh
th thy tng quan hu thi
th x ti hiu th lang thng
Trn ti lng Trn Hin Tng.
ch th cm u i m Min bc.
Thao l loi phc sc ph bin
M Min dng trong cc dp i l
Trung Quc v Triu Tin.
[] Ni quan, thng phm i
Ti Vit Nam, dy thao tht
m Dng ng, nh hnh ong
lng c s dng ph bin
bm bng vng, dy tha khc bit. V trang phc, trung phm mu
vo thi L v cn c s
sc o m gim xung mt cht, h phm i m Dng ng khng
dng n u thi Nguyn.
trang sc, o bo ta, u chp tay ly, khng c ht.(1)
Phn Chng Phc (Quyn 14) trong sch An

Nam ch lc. (Khm nh T kh Ton th Vn Uyn cc).
Qua ghi chp trn c th thy L phc ca b quan nh Trn gm

II. TRANG PHC B QUAN
ba loi: trang phc Cng Thn dnh cho cc tc vng, hu, minh t;
Phn tch nhng ghi chp
trang phc Cn Min dnh cho cc quan tc t i liu ban xung ti
trong phn Chng phc ca An Nam ch lc, c th thy i tng v

dng trang phc chnh c L Tc m t bao gm: L phc v Thng
hiu th lang thng ch th cm; trang phc Dng ng dnh cho

cc quan trong ngch Tng quan (Ni quan).
phc ca vua, L phc v Thng phc ca vng hu cng cc quan
a. Cng Thn
vn v, L phc v Thng phc ca Tng quan (cn gi l Ni quan, tc
Theo An Nam ch lc, quy ch L phc dnh cho vng, hu, minh
ngch quan hu).
Ti phn ny, chng ti kho trang phc b quan nh
t thi Trn(2) c quy nh:
Trn tnh t thi im nm 1254, sau khi vua Trn Thi Tng nh ra quy
ch y phc cho b quan, ti trc thi im nm 1396, nh du bng
Tc trt
S bc trn m
Cng Thn
Loi o bo
Vng
Ba bc
Mu ta dt vng (Tiu kim t phc)
ci cch y phc thi Trn Thun Tng. Ton b ci cch y phc nm

1396, chng ti s di sang phn ph kho v trang phc nh H phn
cui chng ny.
1. L phc
Vo dp i l, trang phc ca b quan nh Trn c quy nh:
M ca tc vng ba bc, m ca tc hu hai bc, m tc minh
t mt bc, tn l m Cng Thn, pha trn nh hnh ong bm bng
1. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Q.17 - Tng Th t Thi H T. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Ti phn ny, nhng c liu chp trong An Nam ch lc c
vin dn, chng ti s khng ch km nguyn vn, ton b nguyn vn s c ch r ti phn ph lc.
2. Mt trong nhng quy nh v tc vng, hu, minh t c Ton th cho bit: Thng 3 nm 1267, nh
Trn nh ngc dip phi chnh dng h vua ca vng hu, cng cha phong m, gi l kim chi ngc
dip. Chu 3 i c phong tc hu hay qun vng, chu 4 i c ban tc minh t, chu 5 i c
ban tc thng phm. Tc phong theo Ng phc . Nguyn vn:
114
Hu
Hai bc
Thu hnh Phng c (Phng ng t phc)
Minh t
Mt bc
Thu hnh Phng c (Phng ng t phc)
ngoi trang sc ong bm, c th cn

c mt trang sc dng trn nh
b. Cn Min
Xt tn gi m Cng Thn,
Theo An Nam ch lc, cc quan
Ton th chp l vi ngha bao
t i liu ban tr xung mc Cn
bc, bo v sao Bc u, vn ly in
Min ty theo cp bc. Ban vn eo
t Lun ng, sau c dng v vi
thm Kim Ng i. Vin ngoi lang,
vic bn phng quy ph , An Nam

(1)
lang tng i m Min c vin vng
ch lc chp , vn l tn mt
Min bc. M Min dng trong cc dp i l.
Ng i(2). So snh hai ngha ny,

chng ti cho rng t dng chp
Chc tc
trong Ton th hp l hn.
Quy ch m Min
T i liu ban tr xung mc Cn Min ty theo cp bc.

Ban vn eo thm Kim Ng i.
M Cng Thn l loi m Triu

phc dnh ring cho cc v vng
Vn
cng, thi s, thi bo ca nh Trn,
Ni i liu ban, i liu ban,

i liu
Thn vng ban
Ni k ban, k ban
Ni ch v, ch v
Vn
Ni vin ngoi lang, vin

ngoi lang
M Min c vin vng bc an xen

(Kim ngn gin o Min)
Ni lang tng, lang tng
M Min c vin vng bc an xen

(Kim ngn gin o Min)
Vn
Ni lnh th x, lnh th x
M Min bc (Ngn Min)
Ni thng ban, thng ban
M Min bc (Ngn Min)
Ni thng ch, thng ch
M Min bc (Ngn Min)
Ni cung phng, cung phng
M Min bc (Ngn Min)
Ni th cm, th cm
M Min bc (Ngn Min)
Vn
Hiu th lang quyn min

cung hu th x
M Min bc (Ngn Min)
nhng trn thc t c t nh

t thi L. Ton th cho bit nm
Mng lm Thi bo, cho php i m
Hoa vn chim phng cun trn thi L

khai qut ti Hong thnh Thng Long.
bc an xen; lnh th x ti hiu th lang thng ch th cm u i m
trong nm cm qun thi ng -
1206, vua L Cao Tng thng m D
115
trn m.
M Cng Thn ba bc, hai bc v mt

bc. (Phc dng. Tranh: TQ).
Cng Thn. Loi m ny da vo s bc v s trang sc ong bm trn

m phn bit chc tc phm trt ca cc vng hu, chng t
chu s nh hng t quy ch m Lng Quan.
Ngoi ra, bia cha Thiu Long dng nm 1226 m t L phc ca
Tit cp nhp ni thi t Nng T thi Trn cho bit: Sc ln m
cao c vng trng ci trn tra, khoc ln mnh phc (tc L phc) c chim
phng xoay trn rc r. Hnh nh chim phng xoay trn c nhc
(3)
n trong bia chc hn l hoa vn phng thu trn tm o Phng

ng t phc ca tc hu, minh t thi Trn. V trn m Cng Thn,
1. C i Hn ng t in. Tr.475. Lun ng - Vi chnh - nh. Nguyn vn:

() Dng c lm chnh tr th v nh sao Bc Thn (tc Bc u) c mun
sao m bc.
2. (Trung) Cu Ng i s - ng th. Nguyn vn: Nh
Lng c cc qun nh Long Nhng, Thn Uy, Cng Thn, u l binh s v dng vy. Dn theo Zdic.
net (Hn in).
Dng ng, h Nguyn, hy m, hiu l
i chiu quy ch m Min vi quan ch nh Trn (bng biu

116
Hng Phc c s.(1)
trn), c th thy quy ch m Min dnh ring cho cc tc t i liu

ban xung ti ch v khng r rng. Sp theo th bc, cc tc t i
Xt v danh xng, cc d bn An Nam ch
liu ban ti ch v cn ng trn vin ngoi lang, trong khi vin
lc nh Lc bn, Ni bn, Tnh bn, Anh bn
ngoi lang, lang tng i m Min c vin vng bc an xen, lnh
nht lot chp l Dng Thng. Bn Vn
th x, hiu th lang i m Min vin bc th phi chng m Min
Uyn cc chp l Dng ng, khp vi
ca cc quan i liu ban, thn vng ban, k ban, ch v l m Min
t dng trn chung cha Din Thnh Bo n
vin vng?
thi Trn. Cc sch Ton th, Loi ch, Cng
Mt khc, Vit in u linh bn bn chp tay A.1919 cho bit ngi
mc u nht lot chp l Dng ng
bin tp sch ny l Th i Tng kinh Trung phm Phng ng L T
(ch Dng y c b Mc khc vi b Th
Xuyn, ng thi cho bit ngi chp sch ng thi l Mn h tnh s
bn Vn Uyn cc). Chng ti cho rng cch
Ni lnh s th t Kim Min Mt n(1). Vo thi L Trn, nhiu khi tn o
c Dng ng l chun xc.
m c vit km theo tn chc quan lm r thm chc phn. y,
Xt v ni hm ca khi nim Dng
Ni lnh s l chc quan dnh cho ngi thi k thi Li vin vi hai ni
ng, Ton th ghi rng, nm 1401, nh H
dung vit ch v lm tnh. Chiu theo quy ch ca An Nam ch lc, Mt
quy nh tt c n l phi c ghi du ln trn.
n ch c i Ngn Min (Min bc), Vit in
M th trong n S Nhip
(Bc Ninh) (nh: TQ).
u linh chp l Kim Min (m Min vng) liu c

s lm ln no chng?
N l ca cc quan tr hnh qu cu la, n l ca

cng cha tr hnh Dng ng.(2) Nm 1499,
vua L Hin Tng quy nh, cc tc cng, hu,
Ngoi ra, cn c theo nhn xt ca L Tc
b, ph m v quan vn v tam phm tr ln mc Cng phc m Phc
v s tng ng gia Cn Min ca nh Trn
u [] khng c dng trang sc Dng ng.(3) Nh vy khi nim
v Trung Quc th chng t quy nh v cht
Dng ng t thi H ti thi L u ch mt dng hoa vn trang sc.
liu ngc, s dy lu dnh cho b quan v i
Nm 1661 thi vua L Thn Tng,
th ging nh quy ch ca ng - Tng.
Triu phc ca hong t, vng t c
c. Dng ng
phong tc quc cng c quy nh l
An Nam ch lc cho bit: Ni quan,
m Dng ng v o bo mu ta(4).
thng phm i m Dng ng, nh hnh
Loi m ny c Phan Huy Ch miu
ong bm bng vng, dy tha khc bit. V
t: Kiu dng nh m Phc u, duy
trang phc, trung phm mu sc o m gim
pha sau cao hn, hai cnh chun nm
xung mt cht, h phm i m Dng ng
vng.(5) Nh vy, m Dng ng
Mnh thi Trn (Bo tng Lch

s Vit Nam. nh: TQ).
khng trang sc, o bo ta, u chp tay ly,

khng c ht.
Bia cha Din Thnh Bo n c nin i
nm 1333 ghi nhn: Thng Lin Tam ha
Chnh chng phng ng Trung phm i m
An Nam ch lc, bn Vn
Uyn cc. Ba ch Dng
ng quan c ng
trong khung mu .
1. (Vit) Vit in u linh. Nguyn vn:
1. Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp 2 - Thi Trn (1226- 1400) Tp thng. Tr.252. Nguyn vn:

4. (Vit) L triu thin chnh in l. Dn theo Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
117
118
thi L Trung Hng l m Triu phc ca hong t v vng t c
Cn(1). M Thng phc ca
phong tc quc cng, cn m Dng ng thi Trn l m L phc
Tng quan trc y l m Ton
ca Ni quan. Qua miu t ca L Tc, m Dng ng thi Trn c
Hoa, song nm 1374, vua Trn
sc hnh ong bm bng vng tng t m Cng Thn, cng c trng
Du Tng quy nh li ch
hp m Dng ng trn khng c trang sc. Cn theo miu t
Tng quan, ra lnh cho 800 th
ca Phan Huy Ch, m Dng ng thi L Trung Hng c kiu dng
v nhn trong ngch Tng quan
tng t m Phc u, ring hai cnh chun c nm vng v phn
u i m Bn Hoa(2).
hu sn nh cao. Chiu theo nhng ghi chp ny, r rng trang sc

Dng ng khng c mi lin h trc tip ti loi m Dng ng.
a. Triu Thin, Bao Cn

,
Song chng ti mnh dn t gi thit, trn loi m c kiu dng tng
Thi Trn, dn chng phn
t m Phc u vi phn hu sn nh cao, hai cnh chun nm vng,
nhiu ct tc ngn, hoc co
ngoi trang sc ong bm bng vng cn c mt dng hoa vn trang sc
trc, cc quan trong triu c
c nh mang tn Dng ng.
ngi tc di, c ngi ct tc
2. Thng phc
ngn, vua l ngi duy nht bi
Bui u thi Trn c hai ln sa i trang phc Thng triu din
tc bc li bng la trng. Nm
ra vo nm 1254 v nm 1300. Mt s loi m mo c t nh vo
1300, quy ch Thng phc ca
nm 1300 v 1301, song khng c cp trong An Nam ch lc. Nh
nh Trn quy nh, vng hu
vy ch Thng phc theo ghi nhn ca L Tc l trc nm 1287, tc
tc di i m Triu Thin, tc
nm L Tc chy sang Trung Quc. Song quy ch L phc v Triu phc
ngn i Bao Cn.
119
u tng thi Trn (tc ngn) ti lng vua Trn

Hin Tng (M thut thi Trn);M Triu Thin
(Trung ng cung quan phc; bch ha thi Tng
ti cha Khai Ha dn theo Trung Quc phc
trang s).
theo ghi nhn ca L Tc c l vn c p dng cc triu i sau. Bi
T in Vit - B - La ca Alexandre de Rhodes gii thch: M Triu
nh m Dng ng t nht n nm 1333 vn c s dng lm m
Thin: vng min, m Triu Thin: m ca vua(3). iu ny cho thy
Triu phc (theo vn bia cha Din Thnh Bo n vi nin i 1333 th v Hng Phc
ti Vit Nam vo thi L, khi nim m Triu Thin cng c dng
c s h Nguyn c chc tc l Thng Lin Tam ha Chnh chng phng ng Trung
ch m Xung Thin ca hong , c kiu dng m Phc u vi hai
phm i m Dng ng).
cnh chun hi cong hng ln tri. Ring m Triu Thin ca Trung
Xt v tng th, Thng phc ca vng hu v b quan vn v nh

Trn thi k u vn k tha quy ch Thng phc m Phc u - bo
Quc c nh ngha m Phc u [] hai cnh chun hi gp li

cha ln trn, nn gi l m Triu Thin (hng ln tri).(4)
phc ca b quan nh L. Nm 1300, ch ra kiu o m mi cho quan
M Triu Thin l dng m hai tng, phn hu sn pha sau l ni
v i, quan vn i m inh T mu en v Tng quan i m Ton
cha bi tc, tng t m Phc u. T loi suy, m Bao Cn p
Hoa mu xanh nh quy ch c . Tuy nhin, sau khi o m Thng
dng cho vng hu tc ngn c l l loi m ch c mt tng, tng t
triu kiu mi ca quan v c ban hnh ba thng, thng Ging nm
loi m th hin trn u pho tng quan triu Trn pht hin ti lng
(1)
1301, vua li xung chiu lnh cho cc quan vn v u thng nht i

m inh T. n thng 10 nm 1301, nh Trn tip tc quy nh kiu
m cho vng, hu, ai tc di i m Triu Thin, ai tc ngn i Bao

,
3. T in Vit - B - La. Tr.153, Tr.237

4. (Trung) Trn s - Quyn thng. Dn theo Trung Quc phc sc i t in. Nguyn vn: []
120
vua Trn Hin Tng. Tuy nhin, hai loi m dnh cho vng hu ny c
ghi chp l in chng ch nh Trn trc nm 1287, trong thi gian
l khng ch l nhng chic m trn khng c trang sc.
nh Trn va tri qua hai cuc khng chin chng qun Nguyn ln th
b. Phc u
nht v th hai. Phi chng trong giai on ny, vua Trn Nhn Tng
Khong t nm 1225 n nm
p dng phng thc tng thng T T Kim Ng i, c ban cho
1301, vo nhng bui Thng triu,
mt b phn ln b quan c mc o bo ta, ring ban vn eo thm
b quan vn v nh Trn i m Phc
Kim Ng i, nh mt c n i vi cc cng thn? Tuy nhin, cng
u, mc bo phc nh ch quan
khng loi tr kh nng trong qu trnh sao chp, do ch T (trng
phc ca triu L. An Nam ch lc
trn) c t dng gn ging ch T (mu ta), nn T phc (trang phc
m t s lc kiu dng ca m Cng
trn, khng c hoa vn) b chp nhm thnh T phc (o mu ta).
Thn, Cn Min, song khng m t
Thng th Trn nh B mc Triu phc,

cm ht. (nh: Bi Trung Sn).
Ht: Thch Danh vit: Ht, vua

c li bo ban, mnh lnh hoc b
ti c li mun tu th vit ln ht
cho khi qun. Loi ch - L nghi
ch vit: Xt trong Kinh L c ni:
Quan i phu sp n cng s,
s quan a cho ci ht, vit ba
ch T i Mnh (Nh lm trn
bn phn p li mnh vua).
Nh th khi lng qun v phi
knh cn. l t su sc ca c
nhn. V sau, ht ch mang tnh
trang sc, biu th cp bc.
V cc ph kin i km theo b Cng phc nh ai, ht, An Nam
kiu dng m Phc u, chng t loi
ch lc cho bit: ai hoc bng sng t, hoc bng vng, ty theo phm
m ny ca nh Trn v c bn tng
trt. Ht ng cng nh vy. Cc chc quan v t chc i m Phc u,
t nh m ca nh L v nh Tng,
o bo ta, ai sng t, khng mang ht, chp tay ly. Ghi chp cho thy
ngoi tr vic dng vng dt ln m
vo thi Trn, ai ca b quan u l loi ai nh sng t hoc ai vng,
nh Vn hin thng kho m t.
khng dng loi ai nh i mi nh triu L - Nguyn. Ht ng thi
Theo ghi chp ca An Nam ch
Trn nhiu khi cn c khc ln bi minh, nh nm 1298 vua Trn Anh
lc, dng nh b quan vn v nh
Tng ban ht cho Trn Thi Kin, khc bi minh do vua ng ch: Thi
Trn, ngoi tr ngch Tng quan, u
Sn trinh cao/ Tng ht trinh lit/ Linh tri tin gic/ Vi ht nan chit(1).
nht lot c mc o bo mu ta. L
Ngoi ra, s thn Trn Cng Trung khi i s i Vit cn miu t:
Tc ghi nhn: M Min, trong cc dp
Dn u i chn t, thi thong c ngi i giy da, n in lin ci b.
i l th s dng. L thng ch i
Nhng khi ra ngoi tip n (s gi), trm ngi mc o bo, cm ht,
m Phc u, o bo ta, nh Cung
u ch i t m thi.(2) Trc nm 1059, vua L Thnh Tng quy
hu, Th x ng [] Cc chc quan
nh b quan phi i hia mi c vo triu; cn theo ghi nhn ca cha
v t chc i m Phc u, o bo
Marini ng Ngoi t nm 1646 - 1658, tt c cc quan, k c hong
ta. y l iu kh hiu, mu thun
t, h vo cung chu vua u phi i chn t, nu i giy dp s b coi
vi chnh ghi chp ca Ton th v
l c ti, ch c vua mi i hi(3). Chng t, vo thi L trc nm 1059
sc phc thi Trn: By gi Bo V
v t thi Trn tr v sau n ht thi L, khi vo chu, cc quan u i
Vng c ban tc Thng v hu mc o en, Nguyn Trung Ngn s
chn trn.
sut, khi ghi s sch th xp lm vo hng o ta. Vua thng ng c ti, v

li cng do lm l, khng bt ti.(1) Cng mc ch thch: Ch phc
sc ca nh Trn coi mu ta l trn ht, vic tc b hay ban cho mc
mu ta u do Thng hong quy nh.(2) Nhng iu An Nam ch lc
2. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: .

. Ngha l: Thi Sn vng cao/ Ht ng cng chc/ Linh tri dng sng/
Lm ht kh gy.
2. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: . Kin
vn tiu lc ca L Qu n cng chp ni dung tng t, duy chp sai ch Tin (i t) thnh ch Qu
(qu), nn bn dch ca Phm Trng im (Tr.69) dch l Dn u i chn khng, gin hoc c ngi i
giy da, khi n cung in th trt giy ra. Trong lc n tip ngoi p, hng trm ngi mc o bo,
cm ht, u qu.
3. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr. 61 -62.
121
122
c. inh T
Alexandre de Rhodes ch thch: M
Xt v danh xng, inh T ngha l ch inh. Ton th, Cng
nhc: m thng ca lnh. Mc t
mc chp l inh T cn; Nht dng thng m chp inh T
nhc li ch thch: Th m thng
mo; Hong L nht thng ch, Loi ch, V trung ty bt xut hin c
thng lnh quen dng khi phi vo
hai trng hp inh T cn v inh T mo. Nh vy, c th thy khi
chn cung nh.(1) Phm nh H
nim cn v mo khng phn bit, nh chnh Nht dng thng
cho bit: M inh T phn lm ba
m gii thch, Cn l khn li cng l m.
Bn cnh , Loi ch
loi [] Loi th ba thn trn may
ch thch: inh T cn, tc gi l m Nhc . Nht dng thng
b, lm bng vi Thanh Ct, l m
m cng ghi nhn: inh T cn l m Nhc , chng t m inh
thng dng ca s th, nha li v binh
T cn c tn nm, gi l m Nhc.
lnh(2). Nh vy, i tng s dng
(1)
(2)
(3)
123
m inh T vo thi L Trung Hng

phn ln l binh lnh, nha li, cng c
khi c c dn thng.
Xt v hnh dng ca m inh
T, Cng mc bnh lun: M inh
T, kiu dng rt th b, v hnh dng
nh ch inh nn t tn nh vy.
Trng s trong l hi n i m inh

T c di ai mu nh gy m; trng s
trong hi Ging n Ph ng i m inh
T c di ai mu vng nh gy m.
Cui thi L vn c nhiu ngi i.(3) Ng Th S c chung quan im

vi cc tc gi sch Cng mc, ng nhn xt: Kiu m inh T []
Tranh sn mi vua L Nam v hong hu, th k XVIII (Cc b, Bo tng Thi Bnh). Tiu li,
qun lnh i m inh T lm t cht liu a la (gai); V quan vinh quy , th k XVIII (Bo tng
M thut Vit Nam). (nh: TQ).
kiu dng rt ti tin.(4) Theo quan im ca Phm nh H: inh Tin

Hong thot ch ra m T Phng Bnh nh, kiu dng m vung, nh
bng, lm bng da, y l qun trang. i sau [] li bin dng vung
Vo thi Trn, m inh T
thnh dng trn, b dng thng thnh dng cong, lm m thng dng
c s dng lm m Thng triu
khi chu hu, gi l m inh T(5) ng ng thi cho bit, m inh
ca b quan vn v. n cui thi
T c phn lm ba loi, trong loi m th ba thn trn may b,
L Trung Hng, Ng Th S nhn
lm bng vi Thanh Ct (6). Chng ti cho rng loi m c dng cong
xt: Kiu m ch inh n nay vn
trn ny chnh l loi m ca cc quan nh Trn trong miu t ca s
cn nha li, qun lnh u i,

by gi (tc thi Trn) l m thng
dng cho b quan vn v, khng
Tng quan hu ti n S Nhip, Bc Ninh.

(nh: TQ).
tn nghim khin ngi ta chim ngng.(4) T in Vit - B - La ca

1. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.62.
2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: Mt s d
bn chp ch Nhc theo li d th, trng ta ch Minh, nn bn dch ca Nxb. KHXH mi dch tc gi l
m nh Minh. Cch c v hiu nh vy khng chnh xc.
3. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.63. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: []
,
1. T in Vit - B - La . Tr.153, Tr.170.
2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn: []
3. (Vit) Cng mc. Mc thng Ging nm 1301 thi vua Trn Anh Tng. Nguyn vn:
.
4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: [].
5. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
[]
6. Cch phn chia ca Phm nh H khng hon ton chnh xc. Ti phn kho v trang phc thi L Trung
Hng, chng ti s lm r s nhm ln ca ng.
124
thn Trn Cng Trung nm 1293: Sc m
thp cho n dn thng triu L u i loi m c dng cong trn,
mu xanh sm, lm bng la qut sn, quy
vn ra sau gy. mt s pho tng nh tng quan hu ti n S
quanh trn bng mt si st, phn trc cao
Nhip (Bc Ninh) cn xut hin di vi nh gy m, bung ra sau
mt thc, un cong ra sau chm ti gy, dng
lng. Chng ti cho rng, m inh T nguyn thy l loi m phng
di ai tht ngc li ra sau, chp m c mc
theo hnh dng ch inh, nt ngang ca ch inh tng hnh trn m,
st, ngi c chc quyn gia thm di vi vo
nt s mc tng hnh thn m cong trn hng ra pha sau. Chnh hnh
mc.
dng k d ny khin loi m inh T b nho thn triu L Trung
(1)
Ring di vi nh vo m, Ton th
cho bit nm 1301, m inh T dnh cho b
Hng v triu Nguyn ch l th
quan vn v u nht lot c gn di tua
b v ti tin.
mu ta pha bic, tn ch l T tu gin bch .

Di vi ny, theo L Tc, c gn vo ai
d. Ton Hoa, Bn Hoa

,
ngang sau m Thng phc ca Ni quan nh
Theo An Nam ch lc, ngch
Trn loi m thng phm i khi Thng
Tng quan trong quan ch nh
triu dng vi nhung mu ta pha bic lm
Trn bao gm Nhp ni Phn th
thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang sau m.
hu cai qun ngch quan Cn th,
C kh nng trong qu trnh sao chp, S Giao
thng phm hu, thng phm
(2)
thi tp ca Trn Cng Trung chp nhm

mt s ch do hnh th vn t gn ging nhau,
Ch inh nm ngang;
Trng s n , Bc Ninh.
minh t, thng phm i liu

ban, thng phm phng ng,
Tng quan thi Trn trong Trc Lm i s

xut sn .
c th ch Hng (gy) b chp nhm thnh ch nh (chp), cu
trung phm phng ng, h phm
chp m c mc st, ngi c chc quyn gia
phng ng, th v nhn ha u
thm di vi vo mc nn c ci chnh
(Ton th: ha u),
thnh gy m c mc st. Ngoi ra, Ton
thi s thi y v quan, vng hu nha hnh khin quyt v ni th,
th cho bit, nm 1300, ch ra kiu o m
vng hu nha qun gip.
mi cho quan v i, quan vn i m inh
Ton th ng thi cho bit: thng 10 nm 1374, nh Trn nh li
T mu en v Tng quan i m Ton Hoa
ngch Tng quan, t su cc Cn th Chi hu, ly vng hu lm chnh
mu xanh nh quy ch c, chng t quy ch
chng, 800 ngi lm Th v nhn trong Chi hu, do phn th cai
m inh T c t nh vo trc nm
qun, u i m Bn Hoa(1). Thng tin trn cho thy Tng quan c
1300, cho nn nm 1293, Trn Cng Trung
cu thnh bi cc Chi hu nh, gm chung ngch Cn th quan v Ni
sang i Vit mi thy c loi m ny.
quan. ng u ngch l chnh chng, ng u Chi hu l phn th,
Kt hp s liu vi cc t liu tranh

Tng cha Du, xa tc, i m
inh T. (nh: TQ).
th v nhn dng gi, th v nhn, phn quyn quan,
tng thi L Trung Hng, c th thy tuyt

i a s hnh tng binh lnh, quan v cp
1. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: []
phn thng, trung, h ba phm, cai qun thuc quan nh thi gim,
th v, th n v.v.
Quy nh quan phc nm 1300 cho bit ton b ngch Tng quan
u i m Ton Hoa mu xanh nh quy ch trc y. Trong , m
125
Ton Hoa c m t c hai kim hon nh
t trc nm 1301, t nm 1396 n ht thi H, li c p dng cho
hai bn . M Thng triu ca Ni quan trc
cc quan vn v Tng Tht phm. Do cc chi tit th hin trong bc
nm 1287 c L Tc ghi nhn: Loi m thng
tranh c nhiu im trng khp vi thc t Vit Nam thi Trn, chng
phm i khi Thng triu dng vi nhung mu
ti cho rng, cc dng o m th hin trong tranh mt phn no c
ta pha bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai
t thc.
(1)
126
ngang sau m, t cao qu vy; trung phm
Tuy nhin, lin h m Thng phc Ton Hoa, Bn Hoa vi m
dng tua ta; h phm dng tua en; hon lm
Triu phc Dng ng ca Tng quan, c th thy cc tn Ton Hoa,
bng vng thng phm v i mi l khc bit.
Bn Hoa (Ton: t tp, hp li; Bn: chu), Dng ng u c cng mt
Hai ghi chp trn cng cp n mt loi trang
trng ngha. Xt theo danh xng, m Ton Hoa, Bn Hoa hn phi
sc hnh vng khuyn c nh hai bn m.
c nh nhiu trang sc hoa l, song chng ta khng thy cc trang
Loi khuyn ny vn c tn l Cn hon. Vic
sc ny trong Trc Lm i s xut sn . Chng ti t ra hai kh nng:
dng Cn hon nh m thnh hnh vo thi
mt l, loi m th hin trong tranh l m Ton Hoa, song ha s khng
Tng, t thi Tng tr v trc khng c kiu
c t cc chi tit trang sc c th trn m, ch bt ly c im ni bt,
trang sc ny. Cn hon ca nh Tng ch yu
hoc cng c th danh xng ca m khng c mi lin h trc tip ti
c lm t vng, bc, ngc v st nm si bc .
trang sc m; hai l, loi m th hin trong tranh khng phi m Ton
Cn hon ca nh Trn c miu t l lm bng
Hoa, song vn l loi m Thng phc (cha r tn) ca ngch Tng
vng thng ng v i mi l khc bit so vi
quan thi Trn.
(2)
Cn hon. Cn hon thi

Nam Tng khai qut ti
huyn An Ngha, Giang
Ty, Trung Quc (Tp ch
Thu tng gia); Ha Lang
thi Bc Tng (Bo
tng C cung i Bc).
Trung Quc.
i vi kiu dng m Ton Hoa ca Tng
quan thi Trn, chng ta khng bit g hn ngoi
m t ca Ton th v loi trang sc Cn hon
nh hai bn m. L Tc miu t m Thng triu ca Ni quan, cng

ch cp n Cn hon v di nhung su tua. Qua bc tranh Trc Lm
i s xut sn c nin i tng ng vi thi Trn, c th thy cc
quan ty tng, th v v thi gim i nghnh n Pht hong Trn Nhn
Tng hu ht i chung mt dng m. Dng m ny c trn m ta mt
na hnh lc lng, hai cnh m vung ngn, c cnh cun trn v pha
sau, c cnh cun v pha trc, c cnh dui thng, hai bn thi dng
a s nh Cn hon. Bn cnh , mt b phn th v cn i mt loi
m (khn) m gia hai cnh m nm ngang cn c nh mt ph
kin c su kha, khp vi m t ca An Nam ch lc. Cn lu rng,
m Thng phc Ton Hoa c p dng cho ton b ngch Tng quan

2. Dng Chi Thy, H an. Kho v vng bc thi Tng Nguyn Bo tng tnh Giang Ty, Tp ch
Thu tng gia, k 8, 2009.
M ca Tng quan nh Trn (mt trc v mt sau) th hin trong Trc Lm i s xut sn .
127
I NT V TRC LM I S XUT SN
Trc Lm i S xut sn
Hc s Tng Khi, hai v quan vn
Minh. Ni hoc qu qun ca
cng cho bit: Ngi hc Pht
l ha phm c v vo cui th
Hn lm vin, c vua Minh coi
ng gn lin vi dng sng L, Vit
sng L Trn Quang Ch cm
k XIV u th k XV, miu t s
trng ng thi . Ngoi ra, dng
bc v ny n gp ta xin vi
kin Pht hong Trn Nhn Tng
ch trin Trc Lm i s xut
Nam. Ngoi ra, da vo nhng li
li.(3) Chng t ng thi, Trn
tu hnh c o, ri khi ng V
sn c vit bi Hn lm vin
bt nh km bn tri bc Trc
lm i s xut sn , ta bit rng
Quang Ch ht sc trn trng,
Lm tr v, vua Trn Anh Tng
Trung th x nhn Trn ng.
nm Vnh Lc th 18 (nm 1420),
v tng nhc lng cho vic qung
Trn Quang Ch s hu ha
b bc tranh.
cng on Tng quan nh Trn
(1)
V lai lch ca Trn Quang
ti nghnh n. Trong tranh c
Ch, ngi vit li bt t xng l
tng cng 82 nhn vt, c tng
ngi hc o Pht sng L, Hn
bt: [] S tch ca i s c
(1362 - 1428), ngi vit by ch
s, o s v nho s th hin r t
lm th ging D nh trong bi k
vit km sau bc Trc Lm i s
Truyn ng lc ghi chp y ,
trin Trc Lm i s xut sn
tng Tam gio ng tn thi
u bc ha, Dng S K
Trn, ng thi tot ln mt cm
xut sn gi ng l ngi
ngi Giao Ch vn c th k li
c. Ta nhn thy bc v ny,
(1364 - 1444) thi Minh chp li
hng t ho, sng knh. T cc vt
hc Pht Giao Ch Trn Quang
m ch ca Trn ng cho bit,
dng ht sc quen thuc vi ngi
Ch. Minh Thc lc cho bit vo
dm thut li i li i khi chp

vo bn tri, ng hu dng cc bc
Trn ng l ngi Trng Lc,
Vit nh chic vng, hp ng
ngy Mu Dn thng 11 nm 1407,
Phc Kin, t tin l ngi huyn
tru, ng nh v.v. cho ti hnh
su mi by ngi Giao Ch bn
tu nhn quan chim, khin cng
th l Trn Tr, Trn Quang Ch,
hnh ca i s khng mai mt
C Thy - Quang Chu (H Nam),
tng voi ch kinh, tp tc ct tc
D nh cho bit Ngi
gii th php, c bit l th ch
ngn, i t ca ngi thi Trn
Trn Sm n cng vng bc v
vy.
Trin, c tuyn vo Hn lm
u ht sc sng ng, chn thc.
phng vt, ban cho tin bc v
hc Pht Giao Ch Trn Quang Ch
vin lm Trung th x nhn vo
Mun nht vo nm 1420,
qun o. Nh vy, c th bc
cm bc Trc Lm i s xut sn
n cho ta xem vit li k []
nm Vnh Lc th 2 (nm 1404).
ha phm ny tr thnh vt
u xc nh, Trn Quang Ch l
ngi Nam Giao v li s vic nht
Cc bin ngch ch ln ca triu
s hu ca Trn Quang Ch, mt
ngi Vit hm m o Pht, lm
thi, hoan h truyn xem, hn o
nh u do ng vit, ngi t x
v th quan Vit Nam thi thuc
quan ti Vit Nam vo thi thuc
hnh ca i s c xng tng
n xin ch ng khng ngy no
Nam Giao t lu ri . Tng Khi
khng c, nhng ng cha tng c
(2)
Minh. T ho xen ln cm khi,

Trn Quang Ch vit li bt ghp
vo sau tranh, k v hnh trng ca
vua Trn Nhn Tng cng nim
hoan h khi c xem bc ha.
Sau ng tip tc mang tranh ti
xin li k, li bt ca Hn lm Th
ging D nh, Hn lm Th c
phm ny. ng hoan h vit li
(1)
(2)
1. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc Q.268. Mc ngy Nhm T thng 2 nm Vnh Lc
th 22. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc Q.73. Mc ngy Mu Dn thng 11 nm Vnh Lc
th 5. Nguyn vn:
V lai lch ca Trn ng
v chn nn(4). C th chnh Trn

1. Li bt trong Trc Lm i s xut sn . Nguyn
vn:

vn:
[]
Quang Ch nh Trn ng

vn:
4. (Trung) ng l vn tp - Q.19 - Trn T Hiu m
ch minh. Nguyn vn:
ch vo nm 1420, cng dp nh
ngay t nm 1319. C th im qua
D nh v Tng Khi, nhng v
mt s ghi chp nh sau:
quan vn hay ch tt trong vin

Hn lm thi Vnh Lc.
V tc gi ca Trc Lm i
ngi con Chi in.(1)
c th thy r, v li dng lc khon
-o Tng Nghi (1329 - 1410)
Ch Chnh chp tam nin xun
-Dng V (1285 - 1361,
cho bit: Tin ng Trn Gim
Trn Gim Nh t sau ny mi
ngi Hng Chu) cho bit: Ti
Nh c suy tn mt thi bi ti
in vo cng ht sc r rt. Theo
hi nh ngi hu chiu nh hc s
v truyn thn.
Quyn 5 sch hi bo gim ca
(2)
Triu T Ngang (tc Triu Mnh Ph),
-in Nh Thnh (1503 -
H Vn Ngn thi Nguyn cho bit
bc tranh cho bit, y l ha phm
gp lc Trn Gim Nh v tranh
1557 ngi Tin ng, Hng
Trn Gim Nh sng Hng Chu,
do ha s Trn Gim Nh v vo
truyn thn mang bn phc tho
Chu) cho bit: Trn Gim Nh,
tinh thng v truyn thn, l cao th
ma xun nm Ch Chnh th 23,
chn dung ng Triu n dng ln.
ngi huyn Nhn Ha (Hng
s mt ca quc triu. Song trc
tc nm 1363. Cho n nay, lai lch
ng Triu cm bt sa cho ng y,
Chu), tinh thng vic v truyn
mt chng ta cha thy tc phm
ca ha s Trn Gim Nh thng
ng thi ni nguyn do nhng
thn, n nay con chu ng vn
no ca ng, nn khng c cch
ch c bit n qua dng ghi
ch cha c.
cn k tha gia hc. v.v.
no so snh vi bc tranh ny c,
s xut sn , dng lc khon cui
(2)
(3)
chp ngn gn ca H Vn Ngn
-L T Hin (1287 - 1367) quan
Tuy nhin, theo gim nh ca
ring dng lc khon sau ny mi
(khong 1312 - 1370): Trn Gim
Cao Ly cho bit: Nm K Mi nin
Bo tng Liu Ninh Trung Quc, tc
in chng minh y khng
Nh sng Hng Chu, tinh thng
hiu Din Hu (1319), ti i theo
gi ca Trc lm i s xut sn
phi ha phm c v ra t tay bt
v truyn thn, l cao th s mt
Trung Tuyn vng xung Bo
khng phi Trn Gim Nh. Liu
Trn Gim Nh. Da vo bn na
ca quc triu (nh Nguyn). Con ng
Qut Giang Nam, vng cho gi
Ninh tnh bc vt qun tng Th
con du gip lai nh K Ngao, Ty
l Chi in c th k nghip ng.
Trn Gim Nh Hng Chu, bo
ha trc lc Hi ha quyn do
S Vng Tn ca Hng Nguyn
Qua kho st mt s t liu nin
v chn dung xu x ca ti.(3)
Nxb. M thut Liu Ninh xut bn
Bin phn cch thy sau tranh, c
(1)
i cui Nguyn u Minh cp
-Ha Hu Nhm (1286 - 1364)
nm 1999 nhn nh: Sch B in
th thy r rng vic ny pht sinh
ti Trn Gim Nh, chng ti nhn
cho bit: Ngi v chn dung xng
chu lm thi Thanh nhn nh Trc
trong lc ngi ta ct xn tranh khi
nh Trn Gim Nh l ngi huyn
l cha con Trn Gim Nh Tin
Lm i s xut sn l do Trn
bi biu. T c th on rng,
Nhn Ha, sng Tin ng, c
ng t n ch tinh diu. Ti
Gim Nh v, thc ra lm. Bi vt
thi gian in lc khon phi ri
hai huyn u thuc Hng Chu,
khng quen bit Gim Nh, ch bit
tch ct xn phn cui tranh vn
vo qung sau khi h Hng ng n

v trc khi c a vo cung nh
Trung Quc. ng tng th gio

Triu Mnh Ph v tr thnh bc
danh ha, gii v tranh truyn thn
1. (Trung) hi bo gim - Q.5. Nguyn vn:

Nguyn vn: ,,
.
2. (Trung) Sn C Tn ng - Q.2. Nguyn vn:
3. (Triu Tin) ch trai lon co - Q.4. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) Ch Chnh tp - Q.31 - T - Tng t chn

Trn Chi in t. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Chuyt canh lc - Nhn trung. Nguyn

vn:
3. (Trung) Ty H du lm ch d - Q.17 - Ngh vn
thng gim. Nguyn vn:
Thanh. Bc tranh tuy khng phi

tc phm ca h Trn, song xt t
phong cch hi ha, trang phc ca
nhn vt v cc li k, tn ca
nhiu danh nhn u thi Minh,
v i th c th xc nh c nin
III. TRANG PHC QUN I

Ton th chp: (Nm 1285) Quan qun giao chin vi qun Nguyn
i ca tranh. Trong li bt ghi r
nhng ngi vit li bt sau tranh
nm Vnh Lc th 18 (1420), v c
u khng mt li nhc n danh
ba ngi ghi r nin i ti phn lc
ha Trn Gim Nh. Trong khi ,
khon; Trn ng, ngi vit ch
D nh sau khi nghe Trn Quang
trin dn th, li l huyn lnh La
Ch thut li s tch ca vua Trn,
in gia thi Hng V, iu ny
lin ni T triu trc n nay,
xc quyt rng, bc tranh khng th
tn tui ngi khng c bit n
mun hn thi Minh s, c th truy
Trung chu [...] Nay may gp thnh
ln n cui thi Nguyn [] Bc
triu, khi phc cng th thi Hn
tranh ny vo cui thi Minh c
ng, thu ht t y, nhp vo bn
Hng Nguyn Bin thu gi, sau khi
, khin phong tc ng vn ng
c a vo ni ph nh Thanh,
qu, nn tranh ny mi c truyn
trc khi Ph Nghi nhng ngi, vi
b kinh s. Bng khng, tn tui
danh ngha l vt thng cho Ph
ca i s cng ch lu truyn mt
Kit, c vn chuyn cng mt
vng Nam Giao m thi [...] Ngi
s bc th ha khc qua Thin Tn
Nam Giao v li s vic nht thi,
ti ngy cung Trng Xun. Sau
hoan h truyn xem(2). Ph Hip vit
khi Th chin th hai kt thc, Ph
li bt cui tranh cng ni Ngi
Nghi mang cc ha phm ny chy
trong nc hm m, lm ra tranh
ti thnh ph Lm Giang tnh Ct
ny(3). Nh vy, vi nhng chng
Lm, b qun ta bt c, giao li
c hin c, chng ti cho rng tc
cho Ngn hng nhn dn ng Bc
gi ca Trc Lm i s xut sn
chuyn cho y ban qun l vn vt
khng phi Trn Gim Nh, m rt
ng Bc, sau a v Bo tng
c th l mt ha s Vit Nam.
ng Bc tc Bo tng Liu Ninh

ngy nay ct gi(1).
Cn lu thm rng, v quan
ngi Vit Trn Quang Ch v
1. Liu Ninh tnh bc vt qun tng - Th ha trc

lc - Hi ha quyn. Tr.248
Hm T Quan, cc qun u c mt, ring qun ca Chiu Vn Vng

Trn Nht Dut c ngi Tng, mc o kiu Tng, cm cung tn chin
u. Thng hong s cc qun c th khng phn bit c, sai ngi
d rng: y l qun Tht ca Chiu Vn Vng, phi nhn cho k! Chng
v ngi Tng v ngi Tht, ting ni v trang phc tng t.(1) T y
c th suy, ng thi din mo qun trang ca binh tng i Vit c
s phn bit kh ln vi qun trang ca ngi Tng v ngi Nguyn.
Qun i triu Tng v triu Nguyn do Lu Vnh Hoa phc dng (Trung Quc
c i qun nhung phc sc); Binh lnh triu Trn (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
Nh chng ti cp ti phn kho v trang phc qun i thi

L, qun trang ca i Vit ch yu gm: trang phc Gip Tr dnh cho
tng lnh, trang phc T Phng Bnh nh v khinh trang mnh trn
ng kh dnh cho qun binh. Din mo qun trang ny vn tip tc
c k tha vo thi Trn.
i chiu pho tng Kim Cng thi L, pho tng tng canh ca
2. Li bt sau tranh. Nguyn vn:
[]
3. Nh trn. Nguyn vn:
khai qut ti di tch Bo Thp thi Trn, c th thy b Gip Tr Minh

Quang c du nhp v Vit ha t thi Tin L v thi L vn c k
tha vo thi Trn. Ring pho tng khai qut ti di tch Bo Thp c
i cht bin d so vi tng Kim Cng thi L, trong tm gip che
133
134
h b c thit k theo kiu vy c, c s h
cho Nguyn Trung Ngn mc chin bo, i m v, eo Lng ( ming
ng vi cc dng gip tr thi L sau ny.
g vung bn gc) v nghin vng duyt cm qun(1). i Vit thng
Bn thn H Nguyn Trng l ngi thng
s cho bit: nm 1425, L Li t xng Kim hiu Thi s Bnh chng
tho binh kh, sau khi b bt v Trung Quc,
qun quc trng s i thin hnh ha, t Kim Ng i, song Kim H
tng m xng ch tc o gip m tr cho nh
ph, Trang v v quc cng; nm 1427, t cc v i thn ti chc thi
Minh. Nh vy Gip Tr ca i Vit ng thi
y, ai c cng ln c thng Kim ph; nm 1429, Trnh Kh c ban
hn l loi Gip Tr cng chc, c tnh thc dng
Ngn ph v.v. Nh vy, c th thy cc loi ph hiu bng vng bc
cao, nu khng nh Minh khng H Nguyn
chm khc hnh h (H ph), hnh my (Vn ph), hnh ra (Quy ph),
Trng coi gi cng vic ny. Ngoi ra, Bo tng
hnh k ln (Ln ph) ca cc quan v rt phong ph a dng, c
Lch s Vit Nam hin lu gi mt tm ngi c
dng th hin phm cp ca cc quan.
hnh tng v s i m u h c xc nh c
nin i thi Trn. iu ny khin chng ti ng
Tng tng lnh mc
gip Minh Quang, cm
ph vit thi Trn, khai
qut ti di tch Bo Thp,
x Thng Li, huyn Vn
n, Qung Ninh. (Th
gii di sn).
IV. TRANG PHC DN GIAN
rng mt i qun no thi Trn, c th l i
1. Y phc
qun H Dc hoc H Bn s dng loi m c
Trang phc dn gian thi Trn vn
hnh u h. Ti Trung Quc, m u h c gi
tip tc k tha trang phc thi L vi o
l H Quan, lm bng st, xut hin vo thi Ty
Sam c trn bn vt, thng mu en,
ng - Ng i, t thi Tng tr v sau khng
qun la trng. An Nam ch lc cho bit:
thy na .
Vng hu v th dn thng mc o c
(1)
Cng nh ch ng - Tng, vo thi Trn phc sc Ng i
trn, thng mu en huyn, qun bng l

trng, hi chung loi bng da. S thn
ch dnh ring cho quan vn. i vi quan

v, Ton th chp: Phm Ng Lo vo
nh Nguyn Trn Cng Trung cng miu
nm 1279 c ban Vn ph , nm
t: Ngi trong nc u mc mu en,
1294 c ban Kim ph , nm 1301
o en bn vt, c trn lm bng l. Ph
c phong lm Thn v i tng qun,
n cng mc o en, song o trng bn
c ban Quy ph , nm 1302 c
trong l r ra ngoi, m ly c, rng bn
phong lm in sy, c ban H ph
tc l khc bit. Cc mu xanh, , vng,
; nm 1390, Phm Mnh c ban cho
ta tuyt nhin khng c.(2) Tuy nhin,
lm Dc v qun, ri thng lm Uy Minh
ni nh vy khng c ngha rng ton b
tng qun, ch huy qun Thnh Dc, eo
ngi i Vit, ai ny u mc cng mt kiu o. Ngoi loi o c trn,
Kim Vn ph ; nm 1395, H Qu Ly
c thng lm Nhp ni ph chnh Thi
s Bnh chng qun quc trng s Tuyn
trung v quc i vng, eo Kim Ln ph
; nm 1351, vua Trn D Tng ban
1. (Trung) Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.85.
Tng v s thi ng, i m

H Quan, khai qut ti m Ut
Tr Knh c nm 1972, Trung
Quc; Tng v s thi Trn i
H Quan (Bo tng Lch s Vit
Nam).
V quan vinh quy . (Bo tng M

thut Vit Nam).
chc chn vn cn c cc loi o t thn, giao lnh m qua bc tranh

Trc Lm i s xut sn chng ta vn bt gp. Ring loi o c trn
x vt n thi L Trung Hng vn cn xut hin trong mt s tranh v

2. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:
135
136
Ph n thi L mc o c trn bn
vt khp vi nhng m t v trang
phc thi L Trn. (Vn quan vinh
quy , th k XVII, XVIII. BTMTVN). V mu sc trang phc
thi L, Kin vn tiu lc ca L
Qu n cho bit: n bn triu
ngy nay th tc [] mc o thm
en thay i ri.
nh Vn quan vinh quy , V quan vinh
thng khng i khn (m), khng i giy, ng tc mi c thun
quy , Ging hc .
tin, vic ny thnh thi quen, khng thay i c.(1) Th ba, theo
i vi mt s cht liu vi vc thi
hnh v ngi Vit trong Trc Lm i s xut sn v Tam ti hi,
Trn - H, Cao Hng Trng nhn xt: Vi
c th thy nam gii ngi Vit th k XIV, XV khng mc qun di,
vc nc y th c cc loi the Ct Liu, the
l bp chn trn. Cch n vn gin tin ny tng c Cristoforo Borri
hoa tim to si thng, the hp, la bng,
m t (khong 1615): n ng thay v mc qun di th dng c mt
bng, (the la c hoa bng chng cht khng dng
tm vi qun li, pha trn mc thm nm hoc su mnh o di v
si thng, u gi l ),
lnh, l, hi t kh l m
rng(2) Nh vy, cch n vn kt hp gia o, m, qun, xim hn c
tt. Hai th gai, t chui th c chp li
a chung vo nhng ngy mt lnh, thng c i tng l tng lp
lm vi, mn nh la nn, rt hp mc vo
trung thng lu. Nam gii bnh dn thng ch ng kh, mc chm
ma h.(1)
ra ngoi chic o di.
Ngoi ra, Ung i Uyn, ngi nh

Nguyn trong o di ch lc cn m t
2. Kiu tc
Vo thi L, theo m t ca Chu Kh
ngi Vit thi Trn mt trng rng en,
Phi, ngi Vit phn ln bi tc chuy k.
tht ai, i m, mc o ng, o trm
Tuy nhin, bc sang thi Trn, s thn
(2)
bn ngoi mu en, tt t, giy vung.
nh Nguyn l Trn Cng Trung li
Tuy nhin, nhng ngi Vit trong miu t
miu t n ng ngi Vit hu ht u
ca Ung i Uyn c l u l qu tc.
co trc. L Qu n din gii ghi nhn
Bi th nht, ngi thi Trn ch i m khi c vic cng cn cn ra
ca Trn Cng Trung: Thi Trn, ngi
ngoi. i vi cc quan, khi nh h u trn, thy khch th i
trong nc u co tc, cho nn S Giao
m, i u xa th mt ngi bng m mang theo , cn th dn nh
thi tp ca Trn Cng Trung thi Nguyn
ngy thng khng i m.
Th hai, i vi thng dn, vic i giy
mi ch rng: n ng u trc, ngi c
tt c l khng my d chu, c bit trong nhng ngy nng bc. Qua
quan chc th dng khn xanh ph u,
nhng ghi chp ca s thn Trn Cng Trung nm 1292, ta thy quan
dn u nh s c. n thi thuc Minh,
(3)
(4)
dn thi Trn a s u a i t: Dn u i chn t [] Da chn h

rt dy, leo ni nh bay, gai gc cng khng s.
(5)
An Nam ch nguyn
dn sch Giao Ch thng ch cho bit: Dn u i t, ch c ngi cao

sang mi i giy da.(6) Nguyn do ca vic i t u trn c L
Qu n gii thch: V nc ta l ni nng nc, m thp, nhn dn lc
Hong Phc mi bt u cm co tc, n

nay dn vng Giao Thy, Kin Lao, Tr
L vn cn gi tc ny.
(3)
Lnh cm ca
Ngi Giao Ch trong Tam ti

hi (th k XV).
Giao Ch b chnh ty Hong Phc m L Qu n nhc ti y chnh

l nhng sc lnh nu trong Thn minh gio ha bng vn c ban
hnh ti Vit Nam nm 1414: K no cn dm noi theo thi t, co trc
1. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.1 - Th sn. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) o di ch lc - An Nam:
3. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:

5. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: []
6. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Kin vn tiu lc. Nguyn vn:
2. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr. 41
3. (Vit) Kin vn tiu lc. Nguyn vn:
137
138
i t [] Hu Ty s ti s nghim khc
tay, o vt tri, y l dn u Vit(1), ng thi m t Vit vng Cu Tin
trng tr(1). Nh vy vic nam gii ngi
trc 300 nm c phong Ci K phng th H V. Cu Tin
Vit thi Trn thng co trc u l
xm mnh, ct tc, pht c hoang m lp ra thn p.(2) Thm ch, Trang
vic hon ton c thc. Thi quen ny
T (365 290 tr.CN) cng tng cp ti vic ngi Vit pha Nam sng
tip tc c duy tr n thi L s. Phi
Dng T c tp tc chung l ct tc xm mnh(3). Nh vy c th thy,
n nm 1470 vua L Thnh Tng mi
tc ct tc xm mnh ca c dn Bch Vit ni chung, ngi Vit vng
ra lnh cm nhng ngi khng phi
ng bng chu th sng Hng ni ring l tp tc xut hin t rt sm.
s si khng c co trc u . K
Tc gi ca cun Lnh Nam chch qui thi Trn, qua truyn v h Hng
t y, tc co trc trong dn gian Vit
Bng l gii ngun gc ca tp tc ny rng, bui quc s ngi Vit
Nam mi dn dn bin mt, v khong
ct tc ngn tin vo rng ni(4).
(2)
Tng Thi s Trn Th , cha Cu

ng, H Ni. (nh: TQ).
200 nm sau , nm 1642, quan nim

ca ngi Vit v tc co trc hon
ton thay i. Lc ny thng gia ngi
Php Jean Baptiste cho bit ngi Vit cho rng u trc l mt hnh
ng xc phm n danh d, v ch c nhng k phm ti hnh s, khi b
bt mi b co trc u.(3)
Tuy nhin vo thi Trn, ngoi nhng ngi co trc vn c nhng
ngi bi tc chuy k hoc ct tc ngn nh ghi nhn ca Nghim Tng
Gin v Cao Hng Trng c ngi bi tc chuy k, c ngi ct tc, xm
mnh, i t, ming rng en(4). Nh vy cch ni ngi trong nc
u co tc ca Trn Cng Trung l cch ni c phn khoa trng.
y, Nghim Tng Gin v Cao Hng Trng u vin dn c tch, ghi
nhn ngi Vit c tc ct tc ngn v bi tc chuy k. Ring tc ct tc
Ngi dn Vit ct tc ngn, i chn t, khing vng ch Pht hong Trn

Nhn Tng. (Trc Lm i s xut sn ).
ngn c th coi l mt trong nhng tc tc c lch s lu i nht,

tng c triu nh L s ht sc c xy sau khi phc quc.
Vo thi Trn, nm 1300, triu nh i Vit tng c quy nh m
Ngay t nm 137 trc Cng nguyn, Hoi Nam Vng Lu An gi
mo dnh ring cho cc vng hu, ai tc di i m Triu Thin, ai
s cho vua Hn V ni: Vit l vng t bin vin, l dn ct tc
tc ngn i m Bao Cn. Hng o vng Trn Quc Tun c Ton
xm mnh. Ngi Vit ct tc th khng th dng php ca mt nc
th m t l ct tc trc khi n s qun gp Si Thung(5). Ngi
ai m tr c(5). T M Thin cho bit: Ct tc xm mnh, tr cnh
dn Vit th hin trong bc tranh Trc Lm i s xut sn v bc
1. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Nguyn vn: [].

3. Tp du k mi v k th v vng quc ng Ngoi (1681). Tr.50.
4. (Trung) Th vc chu t lc - Q.5 - An Nam. Nguyn vn:
(Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Q.5 - Tin triu th s - Mn Vit kch Nam Vit Hn V hng binh chu Mn
Vit, Hoi Nam vng An thng th gin. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) S k - Triu th gia. Nguyn vn:

2. (Trung) S k - Vit Vng Cu Tin th gia. Nguyn vn: ,
3. (Trung) Trang t - Ni thin - Tiu Diu du. Nguyn vn: ,,
4. (Vit) Lnh nam chch qui - Hng Bng th truyn. Bn A.2107, VHv.1473, nguyn vn:
. Bn A.33: ct tc ngn tin vo sng ni.
139
Giao Ch quc trong Tam ti hi (thi Minh) cng u ct tc ngn.

140
Ph kho
Kiu tc th hin trong hai bc tranh ny hon ton khp vi nhng m

t ca s thn nh Minh l Phan Hy Tng khi i s i Vit nm 1513:
CI CCH QUAN PHC NM 1396 V TRANG PHC THI H
Ct tc khng phn nam n, i m khu bit vn thn, km theo ch

thch: Tc hi che trn, ph xung gy, ring ngi i s Trung Quc
th tc di(1).
Nm 1395, vua Trn Ngh Tng
Cng nh tc co trc, nm 1414 sau khi sp nhp nc Vit vo
mt, H Qu Ly c phong lm Ph
bn Trung Quc, triu nh nh Minh ra lnh cm trai gi (ngi
chnh Thi s nhip chnh. Cc ci
Vit) ct tc [] ng ha theo phong tc phng Bc
. Chnh v nhng
cch ca nh Trn din ra t nm
cm lnh mang tnh hy dit vn ha ny m s thn Ng S Lin mi
1395 cho n khi h H chnh thc
than xit: Hn hai mi nm, i phong tc thnh tc di rng trng,
son v trn thc t u do H Qu
thnh ngi phng Bc! i thi! Lm lon n th l cng vy!(3) Song
Ly sp t.
(2)
sau khi ginh li c c lp t tay nh Minh, triu nh nh L s

c xy cho tp tc ct tc ngn c truyn, th hin qua vic vua L Thi
H Qu Ly t nhn l dng di
xa ca H Cng Mn, t Ngu Thun
Tng nm 1437 ra lnh cho nhng ngi Minh i Vit phi ct tc
lm thy t(1), chnh v vy ng t
ngn nh ngi Kinh(4); vua L Uy Mc nm 1509 bt o s i Vit vn
quc hiu nc Vit l i Ngu. Xut
gi np c, bi tc nh u, ci trm nh o s Trung Hoa, u phi
pht t t tng ny, H Qu Ly ht
ct tc ngn, khng c tc di(5).
sc t tn v hc vn v hm th vn
Ring kiu tc ca ph n Vit thi Trn, ngoi bi tc chuy k,
ha ca mnh. i vi nhng nh
theo Trn Cng Trung, ph n i Vit thi ny cn ct tc ngn, lu
nho ni ting ca Trung Quc, trn
li ba tc, buc nh u, un ngn tc ri tht li nh bt, khng c
thc t c nh hng su sc ti t
tc mai v tc tha ng sau.(6) Qua m t trn, chng ti hnh dung
tng Nho gio ca ba nc Trung
mi tc ngn ca ph n thi Trn by gi nu bung xa cng di qu
Quc, Triu Tin, Nht Bn, bn
vai, di hn mi tc ngn ca n ng qung mi xen ti mt (ba tc),
thn H Qu Ly thng thng nhn
sau c buc li nh u, hi gp li un ra pha sau, tht li nh

ngn bt lng, khng tc tha gy v hai bn mai.
xt: Hn D l tay nho n trm;

Chu Mu Thc, Trnh Ho, Trnh
Di, Dng Thi, La Trng T, L Din
Bnh, Chu T, tuy hc rng nhng
ti mn, khng st vi s vic, ch
chuyn cp nht.(2) Vy nn cng
1. (Trung) Trc Gin tp - Nam Giao k s. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: ,,
4. Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . Trong Thp gii c hn quc ng vn, L
Thnh Tng miu t o s ti i Vit i hong quan (m mu vng), ci nht nht trm ng.
6. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - An Nam tc s. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:
khng my kh hiu khi ng t bin

chp thin V dt trong Kinh Th,
T cho l thnh trit hn Tam hong,

c cao hn Ng ; coi Vn vng,
V vng khng lm php tc, khinh
Chu cng, Khng t khng lm bc
thy; hy bng Mnh T l o nho
(tay nh nho n trm), Trnh Chu tho
cp nht. Di thnh di tri, khng
ngi khng th. Tim quc hiu gi l
i Ngu, trm k nguyn gi l Thiu
Thnh. Xng l Lng cung hong ,
dm dng nghi l triu nh. Chng
phi ch ngang tng ci xa, m k
thc mun chng chi ngang hng
cng Trung Quc. (Nguyn vn chp
trong Triu Tin vng triu thc lc).

141
142
dch ra quc ng dy vua(1), ri lm sch Quc
i l. Tuy nhin nm 1404, sau khi H
ng thi ngha v bi ta, sai n s dy hu phi v
Hn Thng chnh thc ln ngi hong
cung nhn, trong bi ta phn nhiu theo
, li lnh cho b quan khng c i
mnh, khng theo tp truyn ca Chu T(2) Chnh
giy Tch, ch cho i hi gai sng(1). iu
nhng ng thi ny ca H Qu Ly khin mt b
ny cng th hin tm l sng c ca nh
phn nho s nh Minh ng thi coi ng l k
H, nht qun vi vic t tn nc l i
hy bng Nho gio Trung Quc, nh tc gi ca
Ngu, ng thi th hin tm l mun khc
Bnh nh Nam Giao lc, Khu Tun ni: Qu Ly
bit hn v y quan phm phc so vi nh Trn trc kia v khu bit vi
xng Thi thng hong, hy bng Nho gio Trung
nh Minh do ngi Hn va lp ra phng Bc.
Quc, gi Mnh T l tay nho n trm, Trnh Ho,

Trnh Di, Chu T l k cp nht.(3)
Chim phng thi L
Trn (Hong thnh
Thng Long) v chim
phng thi H (Trung
tm bo tn di sn thnh
nh H). D trang phc
b quan thi L, Trn,
H mi thi mt v,
song phong cch kin
trc, ngh thut L Trn
vn tip tc c k
tha n u thi L.
143
Trang sc hnh phng thng

(Trung Quc phc sc i t in).
i vi trang phc ca cc vua nh H, Ton th ch cho bit nm

1399, H Qu Ly t xng l Quc t Chng hong, mc o mu b
Trong bi th p li hi ca ngi Minh v
hong(2). Trong bi th tng Nguyn Ngn Quang, H Qu Ly vit: Mt
phong tc ca ngi nc Vit, H Qu Ly ni:
ny u b Min lu che, chng t trong dp i l ln ngi, t tri t
Mun hi chuyn nc An Nam/ Nc An Nam
(H Hn Thng cho dng n t Giao vo nm 1402), cha con h H
phong tc thun hu/ o m nh ch nh
cng i m Bnh Thin, s dng nghi l ca thin triu.
ng/ L nhc ta vua quan nh Hn.
(4)
i vi trang phc ca b quan nh Trn v nh H t thng 6
cng chnh l t tng ch o ca t ci cch
nm 1396 cho n khi nh H dit vong, Ton th cho bit: Quan nht
y phc Thng triu nm 1396, m qu bn cc
phm o mu ta; nh phm mu thm; tam phm mu hng; t
dng m mo tn ch c nguyn mu l nhng loi
phm mu lc; ng phm, lc phm, tht phm mu bic; bt phm,
m thnh hnh vo thi Hn - ng Trung Hoa
cu phm mu xanh. Ring ni th mc vy m. u khng c mc
nh m Cao Sn, Vin Du, Thi C, Khc Phi v.v.
thng. Ngi khng c phm hm v hng honh n dng mu trng.
hon ton khc vi cc kiu m thi L - Trn vn chu nh hng bi
Li theo chc tc b quan, t lc phm tr ln dng m Cao Sn, Chnh
quy ch nh Tng. Bn cnh vic t ra mt s kiu o m Thng triu,
lc phm c tht ai, i giy Tch. V sc m, chnh th sc en, tng
nh H cn quy nh ton b nhng binh li khng phm cp, hng
th sc xanh. Ngi tn tht i m Phng Thng mu en. V quan
honh n mc o mu trng, i ngc li tp qun ca nh Trn vn coi
tc lc phm i m Chit Xung. Tc cao m khng c chc tht ai,
mu trng l mu sang trng, ch dnh cho vua. Ngoi ra, nm 1395, H
i m Gic nh. T tht phm tr xung i m Thi C; Tng tht
Qu Ly cn ra lnh cho b quan khng c mc o thng tay, i ht
phm i m Ton Hoa. Vng hu i m Vin Du; Ng s i i m
thnh o hp tay(5); nm 1396 quy nh cho vn v b quan t lc phm
Khc Phi(3) Ngoi ra, Ton th cn ghi nhn nm 1437 vua L Thi
tr ln u c i giy Tch trong cc bui Thng triu. Giy Tch vn
Tng quy nh cho b quan vn v u i m Cao Sn, ng thi ch
l loi giy thi Hn, n thi Tng ch cn c s dng vo nhng dp

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: , , ,
3. (Trung) K lc vng bin - Q.47 - Bnh nh Nam Giao lc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: .,,

Cm t khai qun, bn
dch ca Nxb. KHXH nm 1998 dch l qun hai ng khng chnh xc. Ngoi ra, cm t c
dch l cc tng quan chc tc theo chng ti cng khng chnh xc; ch y nn phin l tng,
hiu theo ngha ng t l theo.
thch trc y quan v i m Chit Xung.(1) Bi vy cu V quan

144
tc lc phm i m Chit Xung nn c hiu rng cc quan v t
BNG SO SNH I TNG S DNG M VIN DU, KHC PHI,

CAO SN, THI C CA NH H VIT NAM V
lc phm tr ln th i m Chit Xung. Da theo sch Tam l thi

Tng c th bit c kiu dng c bn ca cc loi m Cao Sn, Khc
Phi, Vin Du, Thi C ca triu nh Trn - H. M Ton Hoa dnh cho
cc quan vn v Tng tht phm hn l loi m c p dng cho ngch
145
NH HN TRUNG QUC
(theo Ton th v Tam l )
Cc loi m
i tng s dng
Tng quan ca nh Trn trc y. i vi nhng loi m Gic nh,
Nh H Vit Nam
Nh Hn Trung Quc
Phng Thng, xt theo danh xng, c l m Gic nh (gic: gc, sng;
M Vin Du
Vng hu
Vng hu
nh: nh) l m nh nhn hoc c sng tng t nh m Gic Cn
M Khc Phi
Ng s i
Cung in mn li, Bc x
ca n s Trung Quc; m Phng Thng hn c nh trang sc hnh
M Cao Sn
Quan vn
Lc phm tr ln
Trung quan, ngoi quan,

cn thn, yt gi
M Thi C
Quan vn, v
Lc phm tr xung
Cng khanh, i phu
Phng Thng (hnh bnh hnh an xen). Ring m Chit Xung dnh cho v
quan, chng ti cho rng khng th da vo tn m m on y l loi
m c cnh chun gp (chit) ri hng thng ln tri (xung) nh m
Triu Thin, loi m dnh cho vng hu nh Trn. y, Chit Xung l
QUY CH THNG PHC CA B QUAN
tn mt i qun ca nh ng nhiu ln xut hin trong vn khc
NH TRN T NM 1396 V NH H
c ca Vit Nam(2), c kh nng m Chit Xung l loi m c ti ch
(theo Ton th)
t mt kiu m ca qun i nh ng?
Tn tht i m Phng Thng mu en, vng hu i m Vin

Du, tc cao m khng c chc i m Gic nh, ng s i i
m Khc Phi
Ban vn
M
Ban v
Phc sc
Phc sc
V sc m, chnh sc en, tng sc xanh
M Khc Phi, m Cao Sn, m Vin Du, m Thi C. Trn y l cc loi m theo quy ch thi
Hn ng do Nhip Sng Ngha, ngi thi Tng kho, vit trong sch Tam l . Nh H ti
ch cc loi m c thi Hn ng, nhiu kh nng da vo cun sch ny. D nhin, nhng chic
m khi c p dng vo triu nh i Ngu hn c s bin d.
2. Bi minh khc trn chic chung x Thanh Mai c c vo ngy 30 thng 3 nm Trinh Nguyn 14 nh
ng, tc ngy 20 thng 4 nm 798. Ni dung k khai h tn chc tc ca nhng thnh vin Hi Ty H
v nhng ngi tham gia c chung. Trong c nhng v nh: Tm chu An Lc ph Chit Xung y
Quch T Cng; Dim chu Dim xuyn ph Chit Xung Cao Tho; Tm chu an lc ph Chit Xung
Quch du l; Kinh chu T mn ph Chit Xung, thng ph Ng i Quch Lp; Chiu V hiu y Hng
chu gii hu Chit Xung, thng tr quc Thiu Ngh v.v. (Dn theo Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp
1. Tr.19). Tham kho thm nh ngha ca Hn in (Zdic.net).
Nht phm
Cao Sn
Ta
Chit Xung
Ta
Nh phm
Cao Sn
sm
Chit Xung
sm
Tam phm
Cao Sn
Hng
Chit Xung
Hng
T phm
Cao Sn
Lc
Chit Xung
Lc
Ng phm
Cao Sn
Bic
Chit Xung
Bic
Lc phm
Cao Sn
Bic
Chit Xung
Bic
Chnh tht
phm
Thi C
Bic
Thi C
Bic
Tng tht
phm
Ton Hoa
Bic
Ton Hoa
Bic
Bt phm
Thi C
Xanh
Thi C
Xanh
Cu phm
Thi C
Xanh
Thi C
Xanh
i vi trang phc qun i thi H, chng ti cho rng gip phc

146
chng lm quan theo quy ch trong bng vn, ngi khng c chng
ca tng lnh thi H vn k tha gip phc thi L - Trn. Ngoi ra,
lm quan phi bi tc, dng la en bc u, khuyn tai, lc cho
bn thn cc loi o gip khng ch c lm bng kim loi, lp lt trong
c ty nghi s dng. o u phi dng o Sam, vy di, hi dng hi
cng ca o phn ln c lm bng da. Vy nn nm 1401 trn ng
vi hoc da, nht lot khng c ct tc i t, khng c dng cc
i nh Chim Thnh, gp phi nc l, cn kit lng thc trong ba
mu sc huyn, vng, ta.(1)
ngy, tng s phi nng gip da n(1). Bn cnh , L H ngi

thi Minh cho bit, sau khi b bt v Bc Kinh, Thng th b Cng (nh
Minh) ng
L Trng (tc H Nguyn Trng) ln u tin m Thn C doanh
Ph lc 1
(doanh tri to sng thn c), xy Khi Gip xng (xng ch to o Gip
m Tr),
ch to thn thng thn sng, bn lui gic Tht di chn ni
TRANG PHC C TANG V QUAN NIM V MU EN TRNG
Cu Long(2), chng t bn thn H Nguyn Trng rt tho vic ch to

Gip Tr.
i vi trang phc dn gian di triu H, ta cng ch bit rng
- (Trung) An Nam ch lc (Trn): Quc ch ngy thng i m
nm 1404, H Hn Thng cm mi ngi trong thin h dng loi
ng Cn, thng phc coi mu trng l mu sang qu. Ngi trong
la phiu k lm o, ch cho phiu s qua,
tc ch cho php dn
nc ai mc mu trng tc l tim ch, ring ph n khng cm. Nm
gian c dng loi la th may qun o, khng c dng la mn.
1291, khi vua Trn Thnh Tng mt, vua Trn Anh Tng ni vi s thn
Mt s lnh cm ca nh Minh i vi u tc qun o ca ngi
nh Nguyn: Ta tang cha, mc o en, n rau c, trai gii trong nm
Vit, cng h l cho chng ta c bit din mo trang phc dn gian
nm.(2) Phn Phong tc li vit: Quy ch tang l v dng trong cung
thi k ny. Ton th chp: (Nm 1414) Nh Minh cm nam n khng
tht kh ging Trung Quc.(3)
(3)
c ct tc. Ph n mc o di, vy di, i theo phong tc phng

Bc.
(4)
An Nam ch nguyn cng ghi lnh cm rng: K no dm noi
theo thi t trc y, co trc i t [] Hu ty s ti phi gia nghim

trng tr(5); v T nay vic n mc khng c noi theo thi tc man
- (Vit) Ton th (Trn): Nm 1377, d b ti nhiu ln can ngn,

vua Trn Du Tng vn quyt ch thn chinh i nh Chim Thnh.
m t cho vic xut qun bt li v d on v mt kt cc tang tc,
Ton Th miu t: khi vua dn mi hai vn qun n bn sng x Bt,
di, i t h ngc, ln vt s dng cc sc huyn, vng, ta u coi l
c ngi lng lm m ma, vua bt v 30 quan tin. n thng 5 nm
lnh cm, nhum gi phong tc Trung Hoa, k no vi phm th bt
sau, trc khi ra trn, vua quyt nh mc qun phc mu en, cho
ti. Quan li u dng m Phc u c hai cnh chun thun di, o
Ng Cu Vng Hc mc mu trng, ci nga trng. Kt qu: Vua b
di c trn vt phi, vt c o dt bng t, lng tht dy thao, chn i
hm trong trn m cht. Bn i tng L, Nguyn Np Ha, hnh
hi. Sinh vin u dng m Phc u cnh chun thun di, o c
khin Phm Huyn Linh u cht c. Gic bt sng c Ng Cu Vng,
trn mu xanh lam, c vt, tht thao, i hi. Cc chc dch cai qun
em con gi g cho.(4)
dn chng nh th lnh, quan lang, x chnh, li giam, khai sao u

dng o di c trn vt phi, i khn m, i giy hia. Ph n nu c
2. (Trung) Gii am lo nhn mn bt - Q.6 - An Nam ng thng th. Tr.220. Nguyn vn:

5. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Nguyn vn: []
1. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Nguyn vn:
,,,,
2. (Trung) An nam ch lc - Q.3 - i Nguyn phng s - Trng thng th hnh lc. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:

4. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.160-161.
147
- (Trung) Doanh nhai thng lm tp:
Ph lc 2
(Chim Thnh) cho php c mc mu ta,
148
ring vua mc trng, cm mc cc mu
S LNG THT LA V QUT CNG SANG NH MINH
en huyn, mu vng, k no lm tri th b
T 1416 N 1423
ti cht.
(1)
- (Trung) Minh thc lc (Trn - H):

Nm 1419, L Vn Chnh, Giao Ch b chnh
T chiu vua L Thi T ban ngy 17 thng10 nm 1430 cho bit:
ty tu ln vua Minh: Ngi Giao Chkhi
Sau khi ngi Ng ly c nc ta [] cm mm mui khin dn
cha m mt ch mc o en Xin em tang l
khn v ng n, i vi vc dn kh v ng mc.(1)
do quc triu t nh ban b khp dn gian,

h bit m tun theo.(2)
C b ti lng c ng Lm
vn khn trng. L Qu n
cho bit: Tc nc ta, ngi ta
khng king mu trng, n b
u i khn trng.
- (Vit) i Vit thng s (L): Nm

1433, vua L Li mt. Ngy 24 thng 8 Hong
Thi t ban lnh ch cho cc quan trong ngoi
u vn o s gu tang, sau khi lm l tt
khc (100 ngy), u vn o trng lm vic;
qun dn khp thin h u vn o trng ba thng.(3)

- (Vit) Lch triu hin chng loi ch (L): trong 100 ngy cc
quan u phi mc o trng, ngoi 100 ngy dng o xanh hoc en,
khng c dng mu hng, lc(4).
- (Vit) Vn i loi ng (L) cho bit: Tc nc ta khng king
mu trng, n b u i khn trng. Thy ngi i khn , mi
ngi u ci v qui d ca h.(5)
- (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch (Nguyn s) cho bit: C tang c
k mc qun o la mu xanh en, ng nh li ng ng Pha ni: o
m kh phn bit c ngi c vic hiu hay vic h.(6)
2. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc - Q.214. Mc thng 7 nm 1419. Nguyn vn:
[]
3. (Vit) L Qu n ton tp - Tp III - i Vit thng s. Tr.96.
4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Tang nghi v tang phc. Tr.75.
5. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Tr.21.
6. (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch - Q.4 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: []
Ngun dn
Nin i
S lng tht la
S lng qut giy
Minh thc lc Thi Tng thc

lc. Q.183
Thng 12
nm 1416
1.668 tht
10.000 chic

lc. Q.195
Thng 12
nm 1417
1.252 tht
10.000 chic

lc. Q.207
Thng 12
nm 1418
1.288 tht
10.000 chic

lc. Q.219
Thng 12
nm 1419
1.325 tht
10.000 chic
Minh thc lc
- Thi Tng thc
lc. Q.232
Thng 12
nm 1420
2.265 tht
10.000 chic
Minh thc lc
- Thi Tng thc
lc. Q.244
Thng 12
nm 1421
1.535 tht
7.535 chic

lc. Q.254
Thng 12
nm 1422
1.390 tht
8.430 chic

lc. Q.254
Thng 12
nm 1423
1.747 tht
10.000 chic
1. (Vit) i Vit thng s. Tr.87.
149
Ph lc 3
150
PHN CHNG PHC TRONG AN NAM CH LC
bc, m ca tc minh t mt bc, tn l m Cng Thn, pha trn nh

hnh ong bm bng vng, to nh dy tha khc bit. Thn vng mc
o bo ta dt vng. Tc hu v tc minh t mc o bo thu hnh
phng c. T i liu ban tr xung mc Cn Min ty theo cp bc, ban
Bn Hn vn An Nam ch lc hiu bn do y ban Phin dch s

liu Vit Nam thuc i hc Hu thc hin, in trong bn dch An Nam
ch lc xut bn nm 1961, c mt s im cha hp l v mt c u
vn eo thm Kim Ng i. Vin ngoi lang, lang tng i m Min c

cc vin vng bc an xen; t lnh th x ti hiu th lang thng ch th
cm u i m Min bc. M Min dng trong cc dp i l.
L thng ch i m Phc u, o bo ta, nh cung hu, th x
dn n vic phin dch thiu chnh xc. c bit phn Chng phc
ng. ai hoc bng sng t, hoc bng vng, ty theo phm trt, ht ng
m t trang phc ca vua quan thi Trn do ngi dch khng nm c
cng nh vy. Cc chc quan v t chc i m Phc u, o bo ta, ai
cc kin thc v phc trang nn cch hiu v phin dch c nhiu sai st.
sng t, khng mang ht, chp tay ly.
Ngoi ra, hiu bn ny da vo bn d bn lu hnh hin nay l Lc bn,
Quc ch ngy thng i m ng Cn, thng phc coi mu
Ni bn, Tnh bn, Anh bn, song so vi bn Vn Uyn cc vn c i
trng l mu sang qu. Ngi trong nc ai mc mu trng tc l tim
ch xut nhp. Nay chng ti i chiu Hiu bn ca i hc Hu vi
ch, ring ph n khng cm. V phc sc, vng hu v th dn thng
bn Vn Uyn cc, lp ra bn hiu chnh ny, ng thi c u v phin
mc o c trn, mc thng mu en, qun bng l trng, chung loi
dch li nh sau:
hi bng da. Vng hu gp ring quc ch khng i m, t thn thit
Nguyn vn:
qu mn, th dn khng c nh vy.
Dch ngha:
Quc ch c m Bnh Thin, m Quyn Vn, m Ph Dung, mc
o Cn, eo ai Kim Long, c khoc phng tm khc lnh bng l trng
thu b gm nh vng, trn chu, tay cm ngc khu, phm tt l nhn
qun thn ly mng. M ca tc vng ba bc, m ca tc hu hai
Th cn ni quan, thng phm i m Dng ng, nh hnh

ong bm bng vng, dy tha khc bit. V trang phc, trung phm
mu sc o m gim xung mt cht, h phm i m Dng ng
khng trang sc, o bo ta, u chp tay ly (vua), u khng c ht.
Loi m thng phm i khi Thng triu dng vi nhung mu ta pha
bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang sau m, t cao qu vy;
trung phm dng tua ta; h phm dng tua en; Cn hon lm bng
vng thng phm v i mi l khc bit.
151
153
Chng III. TRANG PHC THI L
t trong bi cnh sau khi Chu Nguyn Chng nh chnh

quyn Mng Tht, lp nn triu nh i Minh vi khao kht khi phc
chnh quyn ca ngi Hn, lp li trt t Hoa di th nhng ng thi
ca triu nh i Vit khin ng vua Thi T nh Minh chuyn t
thi tin tng sang chn ght, to c cho cuc Nam xm ca Minh
Thi Tng. Trong khi Triu Tin, quc gia c vn hin l nhc ngoi
Trung Quc thng c nhc n cng nc Vit ng thi, hon
ton quy thun, ch xng vng, coi mi quan h Minh - Triu va l
ngha qun thn, va l o cha con(1), th ring vua quan ngi Vit
vn mang tm thi lm ch phng Nam. Vua Vit vn nghim nhin t
xng l hong .
Chu Nguyn Chng quan nim: T xa vng ng tr thin h,
Trung quc trong ch ng di ch, di ch ngoi phng s Trung
quc, cha nghe ni vic di ch Trung quc tr thin h bao gi(2)
[] Phm ni nht nguyt chiu ti, bt k xa gn, u coi nh nhau,
1. (Hn) Sau khi nh Minh sp , vng triu Triu Tin vn tip tc s dng nin hiu Sng Trinh (v
vua cui cng ca nh Minh) cho ti tn u th k XIX. Triu Tin thc lc khng t ln ca ngi cng n
nh tri b ca nh Minh dnh cho Triu Tin, nh n ti to ca Thn Tng hong (ch Minh Thn
Tng), t khi m ci n gi, cha tng thy chp vo in tch. Th gi l Nhn, chng g ln bng o
cha con, Ngha chng g ln bng o vua ti l vy. M trong o vua ti, chu n v cng, cha tng c
mi quan h no nh triu ta vi Hong Minh vy. (Hiu Tng thc lc. Mc ngy Bnh Tut thng 10 nm
th 8. Nguyn vn:
); Triu ta i vi i Minh, l vua
ti m cng l cha con vy. (Hiu Tng thc lc. Mc ngy Bnh Tut thng 7 nm th 16. Nguyn vn:
)v.v.
2. (Trung) Minh Thi t thc lc - Q.26 - Mc ngy Bnh Dn, thng 10 ma ng, Hng V nguyn nin.
Nguyn vn: ,
154
vy nn Trung Quc t vng th bn phng yn bnh.(1) Chnh v vy
Tuy nhin, quan h Vit - Minh ch tri qua mt giai on mt ngt
ngay sau khi ln ngi, ng lin thc hin k hoch ti thit trt t Hoa
ngn ngi, bi triu nh i Vit d sao vn mang tm thi ca mt
Di, yu cu cc thuc quc ni li quan h triu cng, trong Triu
quc gia t ch, khng mun chu s chi phi ca triu nh Trung Hoa.
Tin v An Nam l hai ln quc c nh Minh u i hng u. Qu
Bt k nhng bin c lin tip din ra trong ni b cung nh, hay s
thc, ngay sau khi nh Minh thnh lp, nm 1368 vua Trn D Tng
x xt thng xuyn vi Chim Thnh phng Nam, mi vic u do
c Don Thun Thn sang s nh Minh. Ti thi im ny, vua Minh
triu nh i Vit t gii quyt, khng cp bo v cng khng nghe
Thi t khen vn hin nc Nam vn gn gi c ch c, khng thay
theo li dy bo ca thin triu. iu ny c cho l s thiu chn
i theo phong tc Nguyn Mng, ng thi tng bn ch Vn hin chi
thnh trong vic th nc ln, v cng l nguyn nhn chnh gy rn
bang, sp ch ng ca s thn An Nam ln trn s thn Triu Tin ba
nt trong mi quan h Vit - Minh. Trong nhng chiu sc vua Minh
bc , mt s u i ht sc hy hu. Chnh vua Minh Thi T tuyn b:
Thi T ban cho vua nh Trn v sau, thng xuyn c li nhc nh: cc
Trm lm vua thin h, thnh chnh thng, t nay c ba nm, cc
cng phm ch l by t tm lng thi, nu lng th nc ln mi mi
nc hi ngoi vo triu cng th An Nam ng u, sau ti Cao Ly,
bn chc, th u cn cng vt thnh son(1) [] Vt khng cn nhiu, ct
sau na ti Chim Thnh, cc nc u dng biu xng thn, hp vi quy
lng thnh.(2) Tuy nhin, v vic t hnh x v thng xuyn thc
ch c, trm ht sc khen ngi.(3) i hc s triu Minh l Vng Ngao
c chi ti ca nh Trn khin vua Minh Thi T
cn cho bit: Khp trong bn b, nhng ni uy c ca nc nh tri
hon ton nh mt nim tin mt phin bang
n khng ni no khng vo triu cng hng nm, Triu Tin v An
vn c nh gi ngang hng vi Triu Tin
Nam gn li thn, l cc nc c vn hin c l gio, vy nn l tit ca
lng thnh thn phc. Nm 1372, vua Minh Thi
triu nh i vi hai nc y l u i nht.
t tc kh ni: Gian manh lo xc, sinh s gy
(2)
(4)
him khch, la di Trung Quc [] T nay An

Nam triu cng, ch c nhn.(3) Thm ch vua
Minh cn nh ngha: An Nam [] bn trong
ly s di tr lm u, khng c lng thnh ca
mt nc nh th nc ln, l nc sinh s.(4)
D rng vua Minh Thi T lit tn nc
Vit vo trong mi lm nc bt chinh chi
quc, dn con chu mun i khng c ng
ao binh, song mi nguy ngi v mt cuc chin
n chng. 1. Hong Hu chi bo (Nh Nguyn); 2. Hong Hu chi bo (Nh Thanh); 3.
Chiu Hin vng hu chi bo (Nh Triu Tin).
1. (Trung) Minh Thi t thc lc - Q.37 - Mc ngy Nhm Thn, thng 12, Hng V nguyn nin. Nguyn
vn:
2. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D phc ch. Tr.31. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Minh Thi t thc lc - Q.47 - Mc ngy Nhm Tut, mng 1, thng 12, nm th 2 nin hiu Hng
V. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Chn trch tp - Quyn 11 - Tng ty M Lng qun s An Nam t. Nguyn vn:
[]
tn khc vn khin T Chng Tc hu Trn

Nguyn n phi khuyn vua Trn Ngh Tng
knh nc Minh nh cha, yu Chim Thnh nh
Vua Minh Thi t v Minh

Thnh t.
1. (Trung) Minh Thi t vn tp - Q.2 - D An Nam quc vng chiu: .,
2. (Trung) Minh Thi t vn tp - Q.8 - Mnh Trung th hi An Nam cng vn:

3. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi t thc lc - Q.47 - Mc ngy Bnh Thn, thng 6, nm th 4 nin hiu Hng
V. Nguyn vn: []
4. (Trung) Minh Thi t vn tp - Q.6 - Mnh Trung th d ch An Nam hnh nhn sc. Nguyn vn:
155
156
con, nh vy th nc nh v s.(1) Song du xt kha cnh tm l hay
thuc Minh, cng vi kip nn nm 1371 gic Chim a vo thnh []
din bin thi cuc by gi, vic knh nh Minh nh knh cha, yu Chim
t tri cung in, nh ca. Th tch, s sch do vy sch khng(1), n
Thnh nh yu con l vic hon ton khng th. Cui cng, nm 1406,
thi L s, nhng b sch quan trng ghi chp in chng ch c
vin c ph Trn dit H, Minh Thnh T Chu c qun xm lc
th ca cc triu i trc y hu nh mt tch(2).
Vit Nam, song ngay sau khi nh bi cha con h H, ng ta li nhanh
Cng chnh bi s mt mt th tch
chng sp nhp nc Vit vo bn Trung Quc, phng danh xng c
ny, ngay t thi L s, in chng ch
t qun Giao Ch, ng thi ra lnh binh lnh vo nc y, ngoi tr
ca cc triu i L, Trn kh c th
sch kinh v vn in ca o Pht, o Lo khng thiu hy; tt c th
k kho tng tn. Vo thi vua L Thi T
tch, vn in cho n nhng loi v tr con qu ma tp vit nh Thng
v na u thi vua L Thi Tng, vn ha
i nhn, Khu t d , mt mnh mt ch u phi t ht. Khp trong
thi L s vn c s tip ni phong cch L
nc y phm nhng ni di tch c bia do Trung Quc dng th gi li,
- Trn. Ring quy ch Thng phc ca b
cn cc bia do An Nam dng th ph hy ht, mt ch ch cn.(3)
quan nh L vn phng theo ch trang
(2)
Nm 1407, Minh Thnh t li ra ch d nhc li vic trn: Nhiu
phc c ca thi Trn - H sau ci cch nm
ln ra ch d cc ngi rng: phm An Nam, tt c cc vn khc th
1396. Tuy nhin, quy ch ny ngy cng th
tch cho n tng mnh tng ch ca loi v tr con qu ma tp vit nh
hin r tnh cht i khi, thiu s rch ri
Thng i nhn, Khu t d, cng nhng tm bia x y t dng ln,
trong vic phn bit phm trt ca vn v
h trng thy l hy ngay lp tc, ch st li. Nay nghe ni sch v thu
b quan. Nh nm 1434, thng 8, ban cho
c trong qun doanh, khng ra lnh cho binh lnh t ngay, li xem
hc tr trong Quc T gim v hc tr cc l
xt ri mi t. Trong khi qun lnh phn ng khng bit ch, nu th
huyn u c mc quan phc, ng thi
no cng lm nh vy, khi vn chuyn t s mt mt nhiu. T nay, cc
li cho gio th Quc T gim, gio chc
ngi phi lm ng nh li sc trc, lnh cho qun lnh h thy mi
cc l huyn c i m Cao Sn(3); n
th sch v vn t x y l t ngay, ch lu li.(4) Nh vy, sau 20 nm
nm 1437, vua Thi Tng li cho cc quan v cng c i m Cao Sn
Tr em Vit Nam thi Nguyn

tp vit Thng i nhn
(K thut ngi An Nam); Giy
tp vit ca tr em thi Thanh
(BTDTDL). Thng i nhn,
Khng t d, ha tam thin, tht
thp s, nh tiu sinh, bt cu t,
giai tc nhn, kh tri l d.
ging nh quan vn. Theo ch ca nh H trc kia, quan vn t lc

2. (Vit) Sn c tp thut Thng i nhn cho bit: Tr con mi tp vit ch, t vit Thng i nhn,
Khu t d, ha tam thin, tht thp s, nh tiu sinh, bt cu t, giai tc nhn, kh tri l d (Bc i nhn
thi thng c, ch c ngi Khng Khu m thi, ngi gio ha ba nghn , c by mi hc tr gii, nay
hc tr nh cc ngi, tm chn a, lm iu nhn, bit l ngha), thin h u nh vy, khng bit bt u
t khi no. Nguyn vn: :,,,,,,,
.
3. (Trung) Vit Kiu Th - Q.2. Dn theo Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.58. Nguyn vn:
,
Bn dch trong sch Th vn L Trn c
ch cha c xc ng, t nh cu dch l nhng loi (sch ghi
chp) ca l dn gian, hay sch dy tr, nh loi sch c cu Thng i nhn, Khu t d. T L tc
(l: nh qu; tc: th tc) khng phi loi sch ghi chp ca l dn gian, c th ngi dch hiu nhm sang
t l ng, l ca. (Bn Vit kiu th in trong T kh ton th tn mc tng th - S b - Q.162 - Tr.695
chp l l tc).
4. Nh trn. Nguyn vn:
phm tr ln i m Cao Sn, quan v t lc phm tr ln i m Chit

Xung, n y, bt k vn v b quan hay gio th Quc T gim, thm
ch gio vin cc l, huyn u c i cng mt loi m. S i khi
trong cch n mc ca b quan chng t ch quan phc ng thi c
nhiu khim khuyt, cn c mt cuc ti thit trn din rng.
[]
2. Sau nhng t thiu hy th tch ca i Vit, 12 nm sau, nm 1418, vua Minh li sai H Thanh, H Th
sang ly cc sch v ghi chp s tch xa nay ca nc ta (Ton th). Cc sch i Vit thng s (Tr.101),
Loi ch - Vn tch ch (Tr.63), Cng mc (Q.13) u nhn nh: Tng nh Minh, Trng Ph ly ht sch
v ghi li s tch ca nc ta t thi Trn tr v trc a v Kim Lng. Song trn thc t, bin mc sch
Vit Nam thi Minh khng xut hin nhng cun sch m Phan Huy Ch, L Qu n nu. Nhiu kh
nng phn ln s sch Trng Ph thu gom b thiu hy.
157
o m l nhc c coi l vn hin ca mt quc gia phi c t nh

thn trng, v phi c gng ti a gn gi c ch c theo ng
158
truyn thng Nho gia. Nguyn Tri v cc triu thn ng tm tn sng

Chu Cng, bc v nhn c Khng T ht li ca ngi v cng lao ti
thit, duy tr ch l nhc c ca nh Chu. Tuy nhin, sau khi du nhp
v c t nh nhiu ln qua cc triu i L - Trn - H, vn hin Nho
gio c nhng nt c sc ring bit ti triu nh Vit Nam. c bit,
t sau ci cch ca H Qu Ly, o m i Vit phn ln c m phng
t quan phc Hn - ng. n thi vua L Thi T, Nguyn Tri c
Thng phc m Sa o bo nh B t. 1. Quan Triu Tin;
2. Quan i Vit triu L; 3. Quan nh Minh.
Song vn do s mt mt s liu, ngay c v nho thn uyn bc nh

Nguyn Tri cng gp nhiu kh khn trong vic t nh phm phc
triu nghi. Vn d t thi vua Thi T lnh cho Nguyn Tri t nh
giao nhim v ti thit o m l nhc, song thnh qu kho cu ca

ng th hin vic p dng m Cao Sn cho b quan ngy mt t r s
khim khuyt, khin cui cng ng v cc Nho thn phi t nhn rng:
vic t nh l nhc phi i c nhiu ngi c thng bit rng, nm
r quy ch c mi c th hon thnh. i vi trang phc ca nh Minh
ch quan phc, c l vic cha hon tt nn n khi vua Thi Tng

ln ngi, sau mt lot cc quy nh p dng m Cao Sn thi H cho vn
v b quan, cui cng vua vn mt ln na lnh cho Nguyn Tri cng
Thi gim Lng ng t li ch quan phc. Song n thng 5 nm
1437, Nguyn Tri xin tr li mnh lnh, khng mun tip tc hp tc
cng Lng ng, nguyn nhn chnh l do nhng iu Nguyn Tri
thy u khc vi Lng ng(1) Sau khi vua Thi Tng chp thun li
kin ngh ca Lng ng p dng ch l nhc mi m qu bn l
ch o m ca nh Minh, Nguyn Tri cng mt s v triu thn nh
Nguyn Truyn, o Cng Son, Nguyn Vn Huyn, Nguyn Liu dng
s ni: Vic ch tc l nhc t phi i c ngi ri sau mi tin hnh,
c nh Chu Cng v sau khng c li ch trch. Nay li sai tay hon
quan Lng ng chuyn trch vic t l nhc, chng l lm nhc nc
sao? V li vic y lm di trn la di, chng da vo u c.(2) Lng
ng thanh minh: Thn khng c hc thc, khng bit ch c, nay
nhng vic t nh u da vo nhng iu mt thy m thi.(3)
Xt t gc ca Nguyn Tri, vi nhn quan ca mt nho thn,
o thi Nguyn, o thi Minh s k (thi Hng V), o thi

Minh hu k. (mingyiguan).
ng thi, Nguyn Tri nhn nh Ngi Ng lu ngy nhim thi tc

ca ngi Nguyn, tc xa, rng trng, o ngn m tay o di, m xim
le lot, lp lp nh l. Ngi Minh tuy khi phc o m Hn ng xa,
nhng thi tc vn khng i(1), ng khng nn noi theo.
Trong khi , Lng ng l mt vin hon quan phc v trong
cung nh, chc hn trng thy nhiu dng o m l nhc ni cm
cung, c cho l ngi c hiu bit cht t, nn c giao nhim v
hp tc cng Nguyn Tri t nh l nhc. Nu nh gi Lng ng
ch n thun l tay hon quan khng c hc thc, gy ra mi hi to
159
160
ln cho vn ha i Vit th khng tha ng. t trong bi cnh triu
Xt v kiu dng v trng hp s dng, trang phc thi L s c ba
nh i Vit va phc hi, sch v th tch nht thi gn nh trng
im khu bit vi trang phc thi L Trung Hng. Th nht, vo dp i
trn, in chng ch khim khuyt, cc Nho thn loay hoay ch
l, cc vua L s mc L phc Cn Min, cc vua L Trung Hng ch mc
i thm ngi, trong khi ch l nhc ca nh Minh c s k tha
Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, vn l Thng phc ca cc vua thi L
v pht trin t vn ha truyn thng, ring trang phc cung nh c
s. Th hai, trang phc b quan thi L s c phn lm ba loi trang
coi l nh cao ca ngh thut trang phc c i Trung Hoa, c sc nh
phc: Triu phc, Cng phc v Thng phc, cn trang phc L Trung
hng mnh m ti Triu Tin v Lu Cu, th vic vua L Thi Tng
Hng hp nht quy ch Cng phc v Triu phc, ng thi phn chia
chp thun kin ngh ca Lng ng, sao phng mt phn quy ch o
r quy ch trang phc chu vua v trang phc hu cha. Th ba, thi L
m l nhc ca nh Minh p dng vo triu nh i Vit l mt xu th
Trung Hng triu nh thng xuyn lc c, nn khc vi tnh n nh
tt yu. Mt khc, ch o m mi c t nh, du ni th no vn
ca trang phc thi L s, trang phc Thng triu ca b quan lc ny
l sn phm chung ca Lng ng v Nguyn Tri, bi nhiu loi o
thng khng theo quy nh khin triu nh nhiu ln phi quy nh
m thi Trn - H vn c duy tr s dng n tn thi L Trung Hng
li phm phc triu nghi. Vy nn ti chng ny, chng ti phn trang
m khng b thay th ton b bng o m kiu Minh. Chnh v vy, trong
phc thi L lm hai phn: trang phc thi L s (1428-1527) v trang
bi th chc mng Gin ngh i phu Nguyn c Trai, Phan Phu Tin
phc thi L Trung Hng (1533-1789), ch yu phn bit trang phc
vn khng nh cng lao ch tc ra quy ch l nhc mi ca Nguyn
ca vua cha, quan li v qun i. Trang phc hu cung v trang phc
Tri . Quy ch l nhc mi ny k t thng 11 nm 1437 c chnh
dn gian chng ti kt hp vit chung ti phn kho v trang phc L
thc p dng trong cc dp Thnh tit, Chnh n, Sc vng, Thng
Trung Hng.
(1)
triu v i yn .
(2)
I. TRANG PHC HONG

TRANG PHC THI L S (1428-1527)
1. L phc - Triu phc

Sau khi vua L Thi Tng chun y tu
ngh ca Lng ng, t thng 11 nm 1437
Trang phc thi L s c th phn thnh ba giai on. Giai on
triu nh quy nh, ngy Mu Thn l K
th nht, t nm 1428 n nm 1437, triu nh L s bo lu mt phn
Thin Thnh tit, t bui sm, vua yt Thi
ch trang phc ca nh Trn - H, th hin vic ln lt quy nh b
Miu, hnh l t bi (bn ly), khi v cung,
quan vn v i m Cao Sn v duy tr cc loi m inh T, T Phng
L b ty by t nghi trng, l b sn
Bnh nh trong qun i. Giai on th hai, t nm 1437 n nm 1499,
an Tr, vua mc Triu phc Cn Min, ng
vua L Thi Tng, L Thnh Tng ln lt cho sao phng ch o m
in Hi Anh, i c L Ngn cng
ca nh Minh th hin cc quy ch Cng phc - Phc u v Thng
b quan mc Triu phc, lm l dng biu
phc - Sa, c bit l quy ch B t. Giai on th ba, t nm 1499 n
chc mng. Vua mc Cn Min, b quan
ht thi vua L Chiu Tng, triu nh nh L thc hin cc ci cch trang
mc Triu phc bt u t y.(1) Theo Phan Huy Ch, Min phc ca
phc thng qua quy nh v cht liu o m, hnh dng B t v quy ch
thin t t thi L Trn tr v trc khng th kho c [] Min phc
M Min 12 lu ca thin t nh
Chu, dy honh buc c mu son.
trang sc trn m Phc u.
1. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.1 - H Gin ngh i phu Nguyn c Trai. Nguyn vn: .
161
162
ca cc triu i nc ta khng c du tch,
l vua nc Nam. Song tri vi mong
n thi vua L Thi Tng mi ch ra m Min,
ch ca vua quan triu L, vua Minh
i sau li khng s dng na. T thi L Trung
t u ch cui u khng bng lng
Hng v sau, vo cc dp i l, hong ch i
vua nc Vit mc Cn Min. Bi
m Xung Thin. Nh vy, quy ch Cn Min
theo quan nim ca nh Minh, trc
dnh cho thin t nh L t thi Trung Hng
s thn phc thiu chn thnh ca
v sau b ph b. Tuy nhin, cc i vua Nhn
vua ti nc Vit, vua Vit trn danh
Tng, Thnh Tng, Hin Tng thi L s hn
ngha l vng, nhng thc cht l
vn duy tr loi L phc sang trng bc nht
b ti ca Trung Quc, b coi ngang
ny, d cch ni ca Phan Huy Ch c phn
hng vi quan nht, nh phm ca
mp m, khng minh xc.
nh Minh. Cch i i nh vy khc
(1)
163
Trn thc t, nh H nh ra quy ch
hn tnh cm c bit ca vua Minh
Cn Min, song theo ghi chp ca Loi ch th
dnh cho vua Triu Tin, khi nm
nh L s khng k tha c quy ch L phc
1403 vua Minh ban cho vua Triu Tin
ny ca nh H. Vy nn vic vua L Thi T, L
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng, nm 1450
Thi Tng trong i l ln ngi mc loi L phc
tip tc ban cho Th t Triu Tin
no, hin cha th kho c. Sau khi phc quc, L Li ln ngi vua,
Cn Min 8 lu 7 chng(1). Ti Triu
c iu do vn thi gian v t liu nn phi n thi vua L Thi Tng,
Tin, Cn Min ch c p dng lm
quy ch Cn Min dnh cho thin t phng Nam mi c t nh.
l phc vua mc khi ln ngi, ngy mng mt Tt v khi n s Trung
Ton th ghi nhn, ngy 12 thng 11 nm 1483, vua L Thnh Tng
Quc. Trc khi tr thnh i Hn quc vo nm 1897, Triu Tin
vo bn tho bi ta cun Thin Nam d h tp ca i hc s Thn
khng t tri mt cch c lp nh Vit Nam.
Cn Min ca vua Triu Tin

Thun Tng. (Trang phc
ca chng ta).
i Vit Lam sn D lng bi (Lng vua L

Hin Tng, Lam Kinh, Thanh Ha.
Mc mc Hin Tng, t tp tin cng []
ti Tch in, chu hong Cn Min.
Nhn Trung rng: Vi dt lng chut la/ T ng sc tm bng/ Li tm
i chiu ghi chp ca Ton th vi Minh thc lc, Minh s, ta
tay v ch/ Ct may o Cn long(2). Tm bia i Vit Lam Sn D lng bi
c bit: thng 10 nm 1441, vua L Nhn tng sai s thn sang nh
li cho bit trong l cy rung Tch in, vua L Hin Tng mc o Cn,
Minh tu cng, i thn L Thn ph trch vic xin o m(2); nm
i m Min c dy hong mu son ( ti Tch in/ Chu hong Cn
1442, khi s thn nc An Nam L Thn t bit vua Minh, vua Minh
Min). Vy th t nht n thi vua Hin Tng, trang phc Cn Min vn
lnh cp trang phc B Bin, o dt vng v ban cho quc vng(3). Nm
c duy tr lm L phc Triu phc ca vng.
1456, vua L Nhn Tng tip tc phi s thn sang nh Minh tu cng
Ngoi ra, trong thi gian tr v ca vua Nhn Tng, Thnh Tng,
ng thi cm n (xin) ban Cn Min(4). Minh thc lc ghi li s vic
Hin Tng, chng ta u thy cc v vua i Vit ny ln lt phi s

thn sang nh Minh xin ban Cn Min, trn thc t nhm hp php
ha quy ch Cn Min v i hi s cng nhn ca vua Minh vi t cch
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Hn) Quc triu ng l nghi - T l nht. Tr.112, 116.

3. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Anh Tng thc lc - Q.90. Mc thng 3 nm Chnh Thng th 7. Nguyn vn:

. Cc bn dch Vit vn u dch thiu t Cn Min. Tuy nhin, cch ni cm n ban Cn Min ca
s quan nh L khin s thn nh Nguyn hiu lm, cho rng by gi s Minh n ban Cn Min, (vua)
bn sai bn Trung th lang Nguyn nh M sang Minh tu cng, bi t vic ban y phc. (Cng mc.
Q.18. Nguyn vn: )
164
ny cho bit: Quc vng An Nam L Tun (ch vua L Nhn Tng) tu: i
Cu v vua Triu Tin cng u c nh Minh ban tng loi L phc B
n triu nh phong cho tc vng, thn vng mnh ca triu nh
Bin, ring vua Lu Cu cn s dng B Bin lm Triu phc. Tuy nhin,
hn mi nm. Ci mong ban cho thn Cn Min, ging nh l ca quc
qua t liu vn t v tranh tng thi L hin cn, chng ta khng thy
vng Triu Tin. Vua khng cho.(1) Vic sai s sang Minh xin Cn Min
cc v vua thi L s s dng loi L phc do vua Minh ban tng. Kt hp
vn tip tc c thc hin vo thi vua Thnh Tng v vua Hin Tng.
nhng thng tin trn vi ghi chp ca Ton th v i Vit Lam Sn D
Thng 12 nm 1462, vua L Thnh Tng sai s thn sang nh Minh tu
lng bi, nhiu kh nng cc vua Nhn Tng, Thnh Tng, Hin Tng vn
(2)
cng ng thi xin ban cho o m , ln ny, vua Minh ban cho Quc
s dng trang phc Cn Min, k tha quy ch ca vua L Thi Tng. C
vng An Nam L Ho mt b trang phc B Bin, mt b thng phc
iu xut pht t tm l khng thua Trung Quc, cc vua L s vn lun
bng l , m Sa, ai sng t (trang phc quan vn nh phm theo nh quy ch ca
quan tm n in chng ch ca nh Minh. Nh nm 1502, Ng s
mi th mt chic. Bi Ho sai bi thn xin trang phc
Quch Hu Nghim ln mua mt chic o Long Cn, l hng cm ca
Cn Min, vua khng cho nn ban nh vy.(3) Minh s ghi nhn: Ho
nh Minh, nhn khi i s.(1) Vic lm ty tri ny khng th no xut
sai s sang cng, nhn tin xin trang phc Cn Min, vua khng cho, ch
pht t bn ca Quch Hu Nghim m chc chn c s sai khin ngm
ban trang phc B Bin, m Sa, ai sng t [] Nm Hong Tr th 10,
ca vua L Hin Tng. y cn ni thm rng, thi k u nh Minh ch
Ho cht [] con l Huy k v [] sai s sang co ph [] Vua ban cho
c mt loi o Long Cn, xt t kiu dng n trang sc, phn ln tun
Huy trang phc B Bin, ai sng t dt vng. S thn An Nam ni, quc
theo ch c thi Hn - ng; tuy nhin sau ny, nh Minh hp
ch c phong vng, trang phc c ban tng khng khc g trang
nht Long Cn vi Long Bo, ch ra loi o Cn hon ton mi. Chng ti
phc ca b ti, xin ban cho trang phc khc. Quan b L ni: An Nam
ng rng, chic o Long Cn m Ng s Quch Hu Nghim ln mua v
trn danh ngha l vng, thc cht l b ti ca Trung Quc. Vua k v
i Vit chnh l loi Long Cn tn ch ca vua Minh.
nh Minh - TQ ch)
mi lp, t phi ban cho trang phc B Bin, khin cho khng mt s
tn nghim lm cha t mt nc; li ban cho Thng phc nht phm,
khng qun ci ngha b ti th Trung Quc. Nay xin nh vy l lm
lon quy ch ca triu nh, khng th chp thun c. Song nhng li
ny khng phi l ti ca s thn, m l li tu lo lu ca k thng s,
phi trng tr. Song vua c bit tha cho.(4)
Nh vy, sau nhiu ln xin trang phc Cn Min, nh Minh ch ban
tng vua L trang phc B Bin, mt loi L phc ca vua, hong t, thn
vng nh Minh s dng trong nhng dp l nh. ng thi, vua Lu
1. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Anh Tng thc lc - Q.279. Mc thng 6 nm Thin Thun nguyn nin. Nguyn
vn: :"",

3. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Hin Tng thc lc - Q.3. Mc nm Thin Thun th 6. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Minh s - Q.321 - An Nam truyn. Nguyn vn: ,,,

[](),[][][]
1.Triu Tin Th Tng mc Long bo; 2.Cung Hin vng L Trinh nh Minh mc Cn Min theo
quy ch c; 3.Hng Hin triu Minh mc Long Cn kiu mi; 4. Lu Cu Thng Trinh vng
mc trang phc B Bin.
2. Thng phc
a. Xung Thin
Theo s t nh ca L b ty ng gim Lng ng, t nm 1437,
165
mng mt, ngy rm vua mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, ngi ln

166
Bo ta, b quan u mc Cng phc Phc u. Vo cc bui Thng
167
triu, hong mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin ngi ln Kim i,

b quan mc Thng phc o c trn, m Sa.(1). Vo thi k ny, khi
nim Cng phc c s phn bit vi khi nim Thng phc. i vi
cc v vua thi L s, bt k ngy rm, mng mt hay cc bui Thng
triu, cc ng u i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo.
M Dc Thin ca vua Triu Tin; M Xung Thin Vit Nam (th ti nh

Nht L, H Ni. C vt Thng Long H Ni); M Dc Thin ca vua
Minh (Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh).
Phan Huy Ch nh ngha m Xung Thin tc m Phc u, ring

hai cnh chun hng ln trn, nn gi l Xung Thin.(2) Theo quy ch
ca nh Minh v Triu Tin, loi m Thng triu ca vua l m Dc
Thin, cng c hai cnh chun hng ln tri, song hu ht l nhng
chic m trn, khng c trang sc. Ring vua Minh ngoi m trn cn
c loi m c sc trang sc hnh rng vng, hoa vng, bc sn vng.
Qua kho st mt s pho tng v m th c kiu dng Xung Thin, ch
yu l sn phm th k XVIII, XIX, c th nhn thy tuyt i a s cc
loi m ny u c nh v s trang sc v c dng thc tng t nh
nhau. M th thng c xu hng phc ha, khoa trng nn khng th
1. M th ti nh Ni X, ng Ha; 2. M Xung Thin (K thut ca ngi An Nam); 3.

M th ti nh an Phng, H Ni; 4. M th thi L Trnh (Trang phc triu L Trnh);
5. M th thi Nguyn (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 6. Vua L Thnh Tng (cha Huy
Vn. H Ni); 7. Vua Triu Tin Thi T; 8. Vua Minh Nhn Tng; 9. Vua L Thn Tng
(Cha Mt. iu khc c Vit Nam); 10. Vua Triu Tin Anh T; 11. Vua Minh Thn Tng.
coi l loi m t thc. Song chng ti cho rng vic sc trang sc vng
bc ln m dng nh tr thnh truyn thng ca cc triu i Vit
nam, nn nhiu kh nng loi m Xung Thin ca cc v vua thi L s
b. Hong bo
cng c nh mt s trang sc bng vng nht nh.
Ch Nam ngc m nh ngha: Hong bo Tng t mt phong m

vng. on lnh, o chu nh ang.(1) o bo dng khi thit triu i
a s l loi o on lnh, (cn c tn
bo, Giao bo Triu phc ca cc quan t, ng phm triu Nguyn. i
vin lnh, c king ), thng tay, bn
chiu hoa vn rng thi L s, rng thi L - Trn v hoa vn rng Trung
trong mc lt o giao lnh. Tri qua cc
Quc u thi Minh, c th thy rng Vit Nam thi L s vn k tha v
triu i L, Trn, L, Nguyn, dng o
pht trin t kiu dng rng L - Trn, ng thi cng chu s nh hng
ny hu nh khng b thay i v kiu
nht nh t kiu dng rng ca Trung Quc u thi Minh.
(1)
168
cch. Bo phc ca cc triu i ch

yu c phn bit kiu dng hoa vn
Hoa vn rng thi L s (Bo tng
Lch s Vit Nam)
v b cc hoa vn sc trn o.
Ton th v Loi ch u ghi nhn

vo thi L s, khc vi b quan, trang
phc ca vua khng phn bit Cng phc
hay Thng phc, vo cc bui Thng
triu ngy mng 5, 10, 20, 25 cho n
ngy rm v mng mt, vua L u i
m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo. Cho
n nay, ngnh kho c mi ch pht hin
c hin vt Long bo (Hong bo) ca
vua L D Tng, tuy nhin dng thc v
b cc hoa vn thu trn nhng tm Long
bo ny mang nng nh hng kiu cch
Bo phc ca Trung Quc giai on cui
Minh u Thanh, c l c t nh sau
khi Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng i s
Phc dng m Xung Thin v Hong bo thi L s (Tranh: TQ).
nh Thanh nm 1720. V vy khng th coi

Long bo ca vua L D Tng l loi Long
bo tiu biu ca triu L. Chng ti cho
Nm 1429, sau khi thng nht t nc, vua L Thi T c ban
rng, vo thi L s, Long bo ca vua L
cho cc chc quan v t thng tng tc tr t tr ln, quan vn t
vn l dng Long bo thu hoa vn rng
nhp ni i hnh khin tc quan phc hu tr ln u c mc o
hai vai v vng bng. Kiu cch ny
bo .(1) y cng chnh l phng thc ban thng T Ph cc vua
chng ta vn c th thy qua tng Yn

Qun cng cha S, tranh chn dung t
Thi t Kin Trung hu Trnh nh Kin
thi L Trung Hng v dng thc Hoa
1. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Nguyn vn:
L - Trn vn thng p dng khen thng cng thn. Tuy nhin,

Tng Yn qun cng cha S (C
vt Thng Long H Ni); T Thi t
Trnh nh Kin (nh th h Trnh
ti Thnh Cng, H Ni).
theo quy ch thi Trn - H, ch c cc quan nh phm mi c mc

o bo , vy nn nm 1437, vua L Thi Tng cho rng cc quan tam
169
170
phm mc o mu khng hp vi
mng mt v ngy rm, ch trang phc m Phc u kt hp vi Bo
ch c, mun h lnh i thnh
phc (phm cp c phn bit bi mu sc o bo). Thng phc l trang phc mc
o mu xanh. i t m L St ni:
vo nhng bui Thng triu ngy 5, 10, 20, 25, ch trang phc m Sa
Tin gy nn dng nghip, mun
kt hp vi o bo c trn nh B t
phn bit tn ti biu dng cng
vung vi nh trc ngc v sau lng).
thn, ch y nh, h nn thay
nim Cng phc li c hp nht vi khi nim Triu phc.
i? Vua L Thi Tng nh nghe

theo.
1. Rng thi L (Hong thnh); 2. Rng

thi Tng (Cm t vn chng); 3. Rng
thi L s (Bn rp ha tit m thut c
Vit Nam); 4. Rng thi Minh s trn Long
bo ca vua Minh Thnh t; 5. Rng thi
L s (Bo tng Lch s); 6. Rng thi
Minh s trn Mng bo ca Vng Ngao.
(phm cp c phn bit hnh thu trn
Tuy nhin, t nm 1500 tr v sau, khi
Tuy Ton th nhiu ln cp n Triu phc dnh cho b quan
Trong nhng nm 1434 n
nh L s sau khi p dng ch quan phc ca nh Minh, song khng
1437, triu nh L s ln lt quy
h ng ti quy ch c th ca Lng quan Chu phc. C iu, trong
nh b quan vn v nht lot i m
Thp gii c hn quc ng vn, vua L Thnh Tng nhc n m iu
Cao Sn. n gia nm 1437, vua L
Thin qua cu th: C k i iu Thin nhn mt, c ngi vn Gii
Thi Tng lnh cho Nguyn Tri v
Tri ngang ngang v trong V trung ty bt, Phm nh H cng cp
Lng ng t nh li ch quan
ti chic m Gii Tri ca thn ph mnh, ng thi h l cho chng ta
phc. K t y, mt phn quy ch o
bit vo thi L Trung Hng, kiu dng m Gii Tri khc vi m Phc
m ca nh Minh c p dng vo
u (m Gii Tri triu Nguyn l m Phc u nh thm hai chic sng nh trn trang sc Bc
triu nh i Vit, lm tin cho
sn). C liu ny khin chng ti ng rng, c th vo triu L s, quy ch
nhng t sao phng Minh ch din
Lng quan (vi ba loi m Tin Hin, iu Thin, Gii Tri) c ti
ra di thi vua L Thnh Tng v cc
du nhp lm Triu phc ca b quan nh L, trc ci cch nm 1500
triu vua L, Nguyn v sau.
thi vua L Hin Tng. Ring m Gii Tri vi kiu dng Lng quan vn
(1)
Theo quy ch mi: L c i

triu v Thng triu. Nh l t Giao,
Co miu, Thnh tit, mng mt Tt Nguyn n th p dng l i
c duy tr n cui thi L Trung Hng.

1. Cng phc - Triu phc
a. Phc u
triu, hong mc Cn Min, ln ngi ngai bu, b quan u mc Triu
Nh chng ti cp ti phn kho v trang phc b quan nh
phc; cn nh mng mt v ngy rm th hong mc Hong bo, i
L, nm 1059 l thi im m Phc u c chnh thc p dng lm
m Xung Thin, ln ngi Bo ta, b quan u mc Cng phc Phc u.
Thng phc cho b quan i Vit. Quy ch ny tip tc c p dng
Thng triu hong mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, ln ngi Kim
vo u thi Trn, b ph b vo nm 1300 sau ci cch trang phc
i, b quan u mc Thng phc o c trn, m Sa []
Thng triu ca vua Trn Anh Tng. Vo thi thuc Minh, nh Minh
(2)
Theo quy ch ny, Triu phc c quy nh l loi trang phc mc
quy nh quan li v sinh vin Vit Nam nht lot s dng m Phc u
trong l t Giao, Co miu, Thnh tit, mng mt Tt Nguyn n, ch
c cnh chun di phng. Sau khi phc quc, triu nh i Vit di
trang phc Lng Quan kt hp vi Chu phc, vn l quy ch c t thi
thi vua L Thi T v na u thi vua L Thi Tng p dng m
Tng, b ph b vo thi Nguyn. Cng phc l trang phc mc vo ngy
Cao Sn ca nh Trn H lm trang phc Thng triu, phi n nm

1437, sau tu ngh ca Thi gim Lng ng, m Phc u mi quay
[][]
tr li lm Cng phc ca b quan.

Nm 1499, quy ch m Phc u ca b quan nh L c quy
nh: Cng phc Phc u ca cc tc cng, hu, b, ph m v quan
vn v t tam phm tr ln dng cnh chun bng sa en, hi di v
171
172
to hn m ca cc quan vn v khc,
u dng ai tc hng vin thau bc
khng c dng trang sc Dng
on thm.(1)
ng, khng c chp hai cnh
Kt hp s liu vi t liu nh
li. B quan (t tam phm tr xung)
tng thi L Trung Hng, c th suy
vn theo kiu c.
Ngha l t nm
on rng, sau ci cch quan phc nm
1437 n nm 1499, b quan nh L
1500, m Phc u chu nh hng
u i m Phc u c cnh chun
kiu dng ca m Sa. Cnh chun
thun nh, t nm 1499 tr i, cnh
m Phc u lc ny tr nn trn tra
chun trn m Phc u ca cc
v ngn hn trc. Tuy nhin, hai dng
tc cng, hu, b, ph m v cc
m Triu phc v Thng phc ny vn
quan nht, nh, tam phm mi c
c s phn bit r rng, ch yu nm
iu chnh cho di v to bn hn.
hai im: 1. m Phc u lm bng sa
Bn cnh , trong triu xut hin
en nh trang sc, m Sa cng lm
nhiu trng hp t dng trang
bng sa en song ch l m trn; 2. cnh
sc Dng ng nh ln m.
chun m Phc u thun nh, cnh
(1)
M Phc u dng vung v m Sa dng

trn ca nh Minh (Khng ph).
M Phc u v m Sa
T nguyn mu m Phc u dng vung
vi hai cnh chun thun di, nh Minh ch
ra loi m Sa dng trn vi hai cnh chun
trn ngn. M Sa c dng lm Thng
phc, s dng trong nhng bui Thng
triu; m Phc u c dng lm Cng
phc, s dng vo ngy rm v mng mt.
Nm 1500, thi vua L Hin

Tng, triu nh nh ra quy ch o
173
chun m Sa to ngn.
b. Bo phc
m mi cho b quan . Lc ny, m Phc u c s dng lm Cng
Trc nm 1500, m Phc u
phc kim Triu phc, ng thi c quy nh: Cc v hong thn
c p dng lm Cng phc, kt hp
v cc quan vn v t tam phm tr ln, m Triu phc dng m Phc
vi o bo trn. Phm trt ca b quan
u, hong thn trang sc vng, vn v trang sc bc, phc sc mu
c phn bit da trn sc o tng
ta. B t th hong thn v cc vng cng dng K ln, quan vn nht,
t quy ch thi L, Trn, H. Nm 1437,
nh phm dng Tin hc, quan v dng S t, quan vn tam phm dng
vua L Thnh Tng cho du nhp ch
Cm k, quan v tam phm dng Bch trch. ai th dng ai sng t,
B t ca nh Minh, p dng lm trang
hong thn sc vng, vn v nht, nh phm sc bc, tam phm sc i
phc Thng triu cho b quan. n thng 6 nm 1466, vua quy nh
mi bc l . T phm n ng phm, quan v dng nn bc, quan
phc sc cho vn v b quan, lc ny cc quan t nht phm n tam
vn dng Phc u khng trang sc, phc sc mu lc. B t th quan
phm mc o mu , t phm - ng phm mc o mu lc, cn li
v t phm dng H, quan vn dng Khng tc, quan v ng phm
u mc o mu xanh(2). T nm 1500 tr i, m Phc u c quy
dng Bo, quan vn dng Vn nhn. ai th quan vn v u dng ai
nh lm Triu phc, kt hp vi o bo c trn nh B t, thng gi
i mi sc thau bc l . T lc phm tr xung, quan v i nn son,
l B phc.
(2)
M Sa trong tranh chn dung

Nguyn Tri (BTLSVN); M Phc
u trn tng Thi gim Trnh
ng ng (M Vn, Hng Yn);
M Phc u ca quan V v quan
Vn triu Nguyn (BAVH.1916).
Vo thi Nguyn, m Phc u
trn cn c gi l m Sa.
quan vn i Phc u khng trang sc, phc sc mu xanh. B t th

quan v dng Tng, quan vn dng Bch nhn. ai th quan vn v
1. (Vit) L triu hi in. Dn theo sch Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: ,
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN I VIT NM 1500

(theo Cng mc)
174
Hong thn i m Phc u sc vng, ai sng t sc vng, B t K

ln, phc sc mu ta.
Phm
cp
Quan vn v quan v An Nam v trong Yn hnh lc

ca s thn Triu Tin.
BNG SO SNH QUY CH PHC SC CA B QUAN

NH MINH, TRIU TIN V NH L
Quan Vn
M
ai
B t
Phc
sc
ai
B t
Phc
sc
Nht
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
Tin
hc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
S t
Nh
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
Tin
hc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
S t
Tam
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai i
mi sc
bc bc
l
Cm
k
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai i
mi sc
bc bc
l
Bch
trch
T
phm
Phc
u
trn
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc l
Khng
tc
Lc
Nn
bc
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc l
Lc
Ng
phm
Phc
u
trn
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc l
Vn
nhn
Lc
Nn
bc
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc l
Bo
Lc
Lc
phm
tr
xung
Phc
u
trn
ai tc
hng
vin
thau
bc
on
thm
Bch
nhn
Xanh
Nn
son
ai tc
hng
vin
thau
bc
on
thm
Tng
Xanh
(Theo Minh s, Triu Tin vng triu thc lc v

Ton th)
Nh Minh
Nh
Triu Tin
Nh L
T 1429 - 1466
T 1466 v
sau
Nht phm
Ta
Nh phm
Tam phm
Xanh
T phm
Xanh
Lc
Lc
Ng phm
Xanh
Xanh
Bic
Lc
Lc phm
Xanh
Xanh
Bic
Xanh
Tht phm
Xanh
Lc
Bic
Xanh
Bt phm
Lc
Lc
Xanh
Xanh
Cu phm
Lc
Lc
Xanh
Xanh
Quan V
2. Thng phc
a. Sa
M Sa l phin bn dng trn ca m Phc u, nh L p dng
lm trang phc Thng triu cho b quan k t nm 1437. Bc ha chn
dung Nguyn Tri hin lu gi ti Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam, bc ha
175
176
quan An Nam thi L trong Hong Thanh chc cng v bc tranh
Thng 9 nhun nm 1471, vua L Thnh Tng chnh thc p dng quy
quan Ngh v trong Nhng khu truyn gio ca cha Marini u th hin
ch Thng phc B t ca nh Minh. Thng 10 nm 1488, vua tip tc
r loi m Sa trn theo quy ch ca nh Minh.
t ra quy nh v kch c o bo Thng phc v Triu phc dnh cho

b quan, theo quy ch mi, o di cch t 2 tc (khong 8cm), ng tay
o rng 1 thc 3 tc (khong 50cm).(1)
1. Quan Lu Cu (Tranh Ogoe thi xa xa); 2. Chn dung Nguyn Tri, quan thi L s Vit Nam
(Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 3. Chn dung T Quang Khi, quan nh Minh Trung Quc; 4. Chn
dung Trng Mt Tn (Jang Mal Son) quan Triu Tin (mingyiguan). Trong bi th Tng s thn
Lu Cu, Phng Khc Khoan vit: Ni sng phong vc tuy khc bit, o m l nhc li ging
nhau (). Cu th khng hn l so ng, m phn nh kh
chn thc cc din l nhc o m tng ng gia cc nc Vit - Minh - Triu Tin - Lu Cu
khong th k XVI n th k XVIII.
Ngy 26 thng 5 nm 1486,

vua L Thnh Tng quy nh, k t
nay, vn v b quan vo chu i
Quan li An Nam mc Thng phc (nm 1751) qua 3 d bn ca Hong Thanh chc cng . 1.
Bn dn theo Yn Hnh lc (Hn Quc). 2. Bn dn theo Hong Thanh chc cng , k hiu
16. 22421 th vin trng i hc Waseda (Nht Bn). 3. Bn dn theo Tp ch T Cm Thnh k
131 thng 4.2005 (Trung Quc).
m Sa, hai cnh nn nht lot hi

hng v pha trc, khng c t
cnh chun phng hoc lch.(1)
Loi m Sa c hai cnh un cong
v pha trc cng chnh l quy ch
m Thng phc ca b quan Triu
B t (B: v; B t: ming v): ch vung vi thu hnh chim

M Sa ca quan Triu Tin (Bo tng
Folklore Seoul. nh: TQ).
Tin cng thi.
mung kt hp vi c cy, hoa l, my nc v.v. nh trc ngc v

sau lng o bo, dng phn bit phm cp ca b quan. Quy ch ny
manh nha t thi Nguyn v hon b vo thi vua Minh Thi T. B t
b. B phc
ca quan vn thu hnh chim, B t ca quan v thu hnh th. V l
T nm 1437 n nm 1471, Thng phc ca b quan nh L l m
vung vi nh trc ngc v sau lng, B t vn c tn Hung bi
Sa trn kt hp vi o bo on lnh trn tng t b quan Triu Tin
hoc Hoa dng . Thut ng Hung bi c s dng ph bin ti
trc nm 1454 tnh t thi im p dng quy ch B t (sm hn Vit
Triu Tin v Trung Quc trc thi Gia Tnh. T cui thi Minh, thut
Nam mi by nm). Quy nh v phc sc Thng phc Sa tng t
ng ny b thay th bi cch gi B t. Qua li d vo thng 9 nm 1471,
phc sc Cng phc Phc u: nht phm n tam phm mc o mu
ta thy vua L Thnh Tng cng tng dng t Hung bi ch B t.
, t phm - ng phm mc o mu lc, cn li u mc o mu xanh.
Chng t tn gi Hung bi l tn gi sm nht, c s dng c Vit

Nam ln Trung Quc v Triu Tin.
177
178
Ton Th cho bit: Thng 9 nhun nm 1471, vua L Thnh Tng
bc quan li. Tuy nhin, do s thiu
t nh quy ch y phc B t. Vua ra ch d ni: Triu nh l ni l
khuyt s liu, hin chng ta cha
nhc, y phc l v im t Nc ta v yn Khu H , theo l vn xa,
th bit quy ch B t nm 1471 quy
quan phc trn di, vn thu chim, v v th, t xa c ch
nh c th th no. i chiu quy
Nay quan vin b tnh cc ngi, hy nghe li trm, Hung bi trn quan
ch B t ca nh Minh v quy ch
phc ca vn v b quan nht nht phi noi theo quy ch nh. Ni
B t nm 1500 thi vua L Hin
trong trm ngy, ai khng theo quy nh, s ging cp tr ti! Ma ng
Tng, c th thy s phn bit Hoa
thng 10, vua ban cc kiu Hoa dng B t, u l cc hnh cm th mu
dng B t ca nh L khng k
sc. Cc tc cng, hu, b, ph m u thu mt con; Cc chc quan vn
lng nh quy ch ca nh Minh.
v, chnh phm thu mt con, tng phm thu hai con; ng s v ng
Song, chiu theo quy ch Triu phc
thng quan thu mt con, phn ty thu hai con. Cc hnh my nc,
nm 1500, c th thy triu nh
sng ni, cy hoa, nhiu hay t, tha hay rm u cho ty ch tc, khng
vua L Hin Tng cho dng hnh
(1)
cu n. Cc kiu mu sc vng, , trng, bic, lc u cho c ty nghi.

Khi thu cng khng bt buc tt c u dng kim tuyn; nh hoa vn
my nc, sng ni, cm th thu kim tuyn cng c.(2)
tng voi lm B t cho cc quan v
t lc phm tr xung. y chnh l

mt s Vit ha trong quy ch B
179
Th bi ng ca Th Ging vin Triu

Tin. (Bo tng C cung Quc lp Seoul).
t, ch c i Vit triu L.
V cht liu o bo, Cng mc cho bit, cc quan t nht, nh
phm tr ln dng cc hng gm vc thu hoa; t tam phm n ng
phm dng gm vc; t lc phm tr xung dng gai, lnh. Mnh ph
theo phm trt ca chng. Gim sinh, nho sinh, hc sinh, sinh , li
in, con chu quan vin u dng lnh, l. Dn gian u dng lnh, l,
vi, la.(1) C iu, trang phc ca b quan vo mi ma khc nhau li
c quy nh khc nhau, nh t thng 10 tr i, mc o l t gai, t
thng 2 v sau, mi mc o the, nu gp ngy ma gi, mc o bng the
hp thi tit.(2)
B t Bo ca quan v Tam phm nc Triu Tin, Hn Quc (Bo tng C Cung Quc
lp Seoul. nh: TQ).
Ngoi ra, bn cnh mt s quy ch o m phng theo ch nh

Minh, cc quy ch cn li ca nh L vn noi theo ch c ca thi Trn
- H. Trong khi nh Minh ph b quy ch Ng i vo thi vua Minh Thi
Sau li d ca vua L Thnh Tng, triu nh chc hn ban b
T, i Vit thng s cho bit nm 1460, L Nim vn c ban Kim Ng
mt quy ch B t, quy nh c th hnh chim mung ng vi tng cp
i. T nm 1460 tr v sau, chng ti khng thy s liu no tip tc

cp n loi phc sc ny. Nh vy c kh nng quy ch Ng i ti thi
1. Khu H tc Hoa H, Trung H. Vua L Thnh Tng dng t ny ch Vit Nam.

[]
[]
2. (Vit) Ton th. Mc thng 9 nm 1499. Nguyn vn:
vua L Thnh Tng mi b ph b ti triu nh i Vit. Thay vo , nm

180
1467, vua L Thnh Tng quy nh cc quan vo triu tham u eo th

bi.(1) y cng l quy ch chung ca nh Minh v Triu Tin.
Tht phm
Kh xch
Bu
Tin hc
Tng
Bt phm
Hong ly
T ngu
Tin hc
Tng
Cu phm
Am thun
Hi m
Tin hc
Tng
V nhp lu
Luyn thc
Giy Tch
: Mt trong
nhng ni dung ci cch Thng

phc nm 1396 ca nh Trn H l vic quy nh b quan t
lc phm tr ln nht lot i giy
Tch. Mc d tm nm sau, nm
1404, H Hn Thng li h lnh
ph b loi giy ny, song giy
B t K ln. 1. Ha tit K ln thi L Trung Hng (Bn rp ha tit M thut c Vit Nam); 2.
B t Vit Nam (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam); 3.
B t thi Minh (Cm t vn chng); 4. B t Triu Tin (Bo tng C cung quc lp Seoul. nh:
TQ); 5. B t thi Thanh (Thanh s thng in lc).
Tch vn tn ti v c duy tr
vo thi L s. i Vit thng s
m t inh Lit ung dung i giy
Nguyn Tri i giy Tch. (Bo tng
Lch s Vit Nam).
SO SNH QUY CH B T CA NH MINH NM 1391

V QUY CH B T CA NH L NM 1500
v giy Tch trng
(theo Minh s v Cng mc)
(2)
Tch .(1) Phc Vng Tranh (con

th su ca vua Thnh Tng)
tng c
vua Hin Tng ban cho vi vc
v.v. Giy Tch ti Trung Quc thng dng
trong t l v triu hi, cng tc l L phc. Loi giy ny c hai

lp , lp trn lm bng gai hoc da, lp di lm bng g,
Nh Minh
Nh L
Cc tc cng, hu, b, ph m
thu hnh K ln, Bch trch
B t ca hong thn v
vng cng thu hnh K ln
Phm cp
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Quan v
Nht phm
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
S t
Nh phm
Cm k
S t
Tin hc
S t
Tam phm
Khng tc
H bo
Cm k
Bch trch
T phm
Vn nhn
H bo
Khng tc
Ng phm
Bch nhn
Hng bi
Vn nhn
Bo
Lc phm
L t
Bu
Tin hc
Tng
khi t l nu gp tri ma cng khng b t(3). Loi giy th

hin trong bc ph iu Ng th gia bi v bc tranh chn dung
Nguyn Tri chnh l giy Tch.
1. L Qu n ton tp. Tp 3. i Vit thng s. Tr.170.
2. L Qu n ton tp. Tp 3. i Vit thng s. Tr.150.
III. TRANG PHC QUN I

S gia thi L Trung Hng cho bit, loi m T Phng Bnh nh
n i bn triu khi ngha vn cn dng, i sau cng noi theo, chng
t trang phc qun i thi L s vn k tha qun trang thi Trn - H.
181
182
T sau nm 1437, cng vi ci cch trang phc ca hong v b quan,
lc s, v qun Thin V, Thnh Uy u gn cnh phng bng vng,
trang phc qun i triu L cng xut hin mt s quy ch o m, Gip
mt vt trang sc ta cnh chim gn hai bn tai m, phng theo loi
Tr mi.
m Phng X (cnh phng) c t thi ng v thnh hnh vo thi
Nm 1469 v nm 1470, vua L Thnh Tng h lnh cm dn gian
Minh ti Trung Quc. Vo thi vua Tng Dc, tng xy ra v vic
ch to v bun bn cc loi nn dng trong qun i nh nn mu
lc s H B phi chu ti cht v b hai cnh phng vng giu i d
trng ng (phn bch sc lp), nn da (b lp), nn Thy ma, nn sn
trc ng git gic lp cng(1). Ngoi ra, loi cnh phng bng
son (chu tt lp), trong nn Thy ma, nn sn son l ca thn qun
vng dnh ring cho v qun Thin V v Thnh Uy cn c qut ra
tc trc bo v cm cung (tc v) . Nh vy vo thi L s, nn l loi
ngoi mt lp sn , gi l kim hng phng x, chng ta hin cn c
qun trang c s dng kh rng ri, tng t din mo qun trang
th thy s hin din ca loi cnh phng ny qua tranh Kim Cng
thi Nguyn v sau.
c nin i th k XVIII.
(1)
Theo quy ch nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, quan v t, ng

phm i nn bc, quan v lc phm tr xung i nn son. Nm 1509,
vua Uy Mc ly Nguyn Tng lm Phi v ty phi V lc s ni s tc
trc cung oan Khang i m bc, cnh phng bng vng, ui hng
mao nh lc s tc trc in Kim Quang; ly Nguyn Cng Lun lm
Phi v ty Phi v lc s ni s, i m Thy ngn,
ui hng mao. t chc ng tng gim v
ng m gim. Ng tng i ao ni s i m
Thy ngn, hoa qu vng. Ng m i m Thy
ngn, hoa qu .(2) Nm 1510, vua Tng
Dc ln ngi, h chiu t hai v qun Thin
V v Thnh Uy, chc trn v Cm y v Kim
ng, kiu m dng m son c cnh phng
bng vng.
(3)
Theo ghi chp trn, v s, v s,
lc s cc v cm qun u i m bc, c
Tranh Kim Cng thi L Trung Hng (Tranh c Vit Nam); M

Phng x (Tam ti hi); Ph iu ti m Phng Huy cui thi
ng (mingyiguan).
th c nhng trang sc nh ng lng , hoa

Tng thi L s mc Gip
Tr (Bo tng M thut).
qu vng, hoa qu gn trn trn v tai m.

Ring kiu m ca lc s v Phi v ty Phi v
1470
,
. Kim phng x, kim hng phng x c dch l cnh m thu phng vng, cnh nm
vng, thu phng , u khng chnh xc.
Ph kho
TRANG PHC NH MC (1527-1592)
Vi s cai tr ca cc ng vua qu L Uy Mc v vua ln L

Tng Dc, nh L s sp sau 100 nm tr v. Thng 6 nm 1527,
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1511. Nguyn vn:
183
ng
in l thi Hng c.(1) Da vo t liu
Dung ph trut v vua cui
tranh tng hin cn, i chiu vi ghi
cng ca triu L s, t
nhn ca Ton th, c th thy ch
xng hong . Triu nh
o m ca b quan nh Mc v c bn
nh Mc chnh thc tri
vn noi theo ch quan phc c xc
nm i vua, tng cng
lp t thi L Thnh Tng. Ring trang
66 nm. Trong , qung
phc ca vua Mc th hin trn cc pho
thi gian tr v ca vua Thi
tng th c kh nhiu im c bit
T Mc ng Dung, Thi
cn lu .
quyn
184
thn
Mc
Tng Mc ng Doanh c
th coi l thi k nh thnh
ca nh Mc. in chng,
S thn nh Minh ng ti chnh in, ngi ng i

din c ch ct ch Ngy vng Mc ng Dung.
(An Nam lai uy sch).
ch ca nh Mc v c bn c thit lp trong giai on ny.
Qua kho st mt s pho tng

th vua Mc ti cha Tr Phng, cha
Phc Hi, cha Trung Hnh, cha Hoa
Niu, cha Nhn Trai, cha An Hng
Ngay sau khi ln ngi, Mc ng Dung cn s lng ngi tng
ti Hi Phng(2), cha Ngo ti Phc Th
nh nh L xa m sinh bin, nn phm vic g cng tun th theo
- H Ni, cha V Cng ti Bc Ninh,
ch triu L.
c th thy cc pho tng vua Mc nhn
(1)
Song khi tha hng thi bnh, ng cho rng ch
nc nh hoang ph, lng lo, mun sa sang chn chnh li, nn
185
Hnh tng Mc ng Dung khi n

v khi tin s Minh. (An Nam lai uy
sch).
chung mang hai kiu m o ph bin sau:
mnh cho bn Nguyn Quc Hin kho xt v t nh ch qun
1. M hnh tr, nh bng, mt trc m chm ni ch Vng
binh, ch rung t, ch bng lc [] i khi u phng theo
, ring tng cha Phc Hi, cha Phc Linh v cha V Cng,
pha trn m cn c min bn. Cc pho tng ny u mc o on
lnh c trn, pha trong mc lt o giao lnh, t c tr xung tht mt
di phc sc tng t nh t tt chng ln ba lp, bung di xung
chn. y c th l L phc ca vua nh Mc.
2. M dng ng, tng t m Thng Thin vi nhng np gp
thng, c nh cc ht ngc chu, ti v tr trn m c trang sc
hnh chim dang cnh trong t th bay chc u thay v trang sc Bc
sn (Tam sn) nh tng cha Trnh Sm cha Kim Lin, H Ni.
Loi m dng ng nh trang sc ch Vng v hnh chim bay chc
u u l cc loi m c trng ca tng thi Mc. Ring trang sc
chim dang cnh chc u nh trn trn m ht sc gn gi vi loi
Tng hong thn nh Mc th ti cha Dim, Vn An, Bc Ninh (nh: TQ); Tng vua Mc
ng Dung th ti cha Tr Phng (Hi Phng); Tng vua Mc th ti cha Ngo (Phc Th).
(nh: Nguyn Th Dung).
1. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.27. Tr.16. Nguyn vn: .
m Ht Quan ca quan v nh Hn - ng (Khang Hy t in cho bit:

Ht l loi chim ging chim tr [] nu b xm phm, s lao thng vo chin u,
1. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.27. Tr.18-19. Nguyn vn:

[].
2. Xin xem Tng c Vit Nam vi truyn thng iu khc dn tc. Tr.258.
du cht chng t. Hu Hn D phc ch vit: Qun H Bn u i Ht quan(1)),
d tnh ti thi im hin nay chng ti vn cha th khng nh

186
c mi quan h ny(2). Ngoi ra, cc pho tng cha Tr Phng,

cha Ngo, cha V Cng u mc o bo c trn vi B t hnh rng.
Ring hnh tng Mc ng Dung th hin trong An Nam lai uy
sch li mc o giao lnh tng t trang phc ca cha Trnh Sm th
ti cha Kim Lin. C kh nng, y ln lt l Triu phc v Thng
phc ca cc v vua Mc.
Do s hn ch v mt t liu, ti phn ny chng ti ch c th kho
trang phc ca cc v vua Mc. Trang phc hu phi do c nhng c
im tng t trang phc thi L Trung Hng nn chng ti kho chung
ti phn kho trang phc L Trung Hng.
Cc pho tng quan v i m Ht Quan thi ng. 1. Tng nh Lng, lng m ca

ng Trung Tng L Hin (Nm 710); 2-3. Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh.
1. (Trung) Khang Hy t in. Mc ch Ht. Nguyn vn: []

[]
2. Cn lu thm rng, Mc ng Dung vn xut thn t lc s, c sung vo qun tc v i vua L
Uy Mc. C l y l si dy lin h duy nht hin c ni kt gia chic m ca cc vua nh Mc vi m Ht
Quan ca v quan nh Hn - ng.
Ph lc
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN

NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1661
(theo L triu thin chnh in l v
L triu chiu lnh thin chnh, k hiu A.257)
Chc tc
Chu vua
M
B t
ai, Thao
Hong t, vng t
c phong quc cng
Dng
ng
Ta
K ln
ai k
thch (
qu) bc
vng
Phc
u
Ta
Tam thi:
K ln;
Tam thiu:
Bch trch
ai bc
vng
t,
Hong t, vng t
phong chc tam thi,
tam thiu gia phong
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
vng
Hong t, vng t
phong t hu c
gia phong qun cng
ai t gic
bc bc
Hong t, vng t
phong c ng
tri, c kim s gia
phong qun cng
Phc
u
S t
ai t gic
bc bc
Hong t, vng t
phong hiu im,
c, tham c, lnh
gia phong qun cng
Nn
sn
bc,
nh
hng
mao
S t
Dy thao
kp, xu
ngc, cm
kim
Hong t, vng t
phong qun cng
Sa
Dy thao
kp, xu
ngc
Hong t, vng t
cha c phong
Lng
Cn
en
o
the
en
Hong
357
Nht phm
Phc
u
S t
ai sng
t bt bc
Quan
Tng nht phm
Phc
u
S t
ai sng
t bt bc
Chnh nh phm, tng

nh phm gia phong
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
ai i
mi
Chnh nh phm, tng

nh phm gia phong
tc hu
Nn
bc
nh
hng
mao
Nn
sn
son
nh
hng
mao
Nn
sn
son
nh
hng
mao
Nht phm
Phc
u
Ta
Tin hc
ai sng
t bc bc
Nh phm; quan
ng s hm chnh tam
phm
Phc
u
Tin hc
Ng s:
Gii tri
ai sng
t bc bc
Tam phm
Phc
u
Cm k
ai i
mi
T phm; quan th c
kim ng s hm
ng phm
Phc
u
Khng tc
Ng s:
Gii tri
ai i
mi
Ng phm; quan th
th, th ch hm lc
phm; quan hnh,
ng s hm tht phm
Phc
u
Khng tc
hnh,
Ng s: Gii
tri
ai i
mi
Lc phm v lc khoa
cp s trung hm
chnh tht phm
Phc
u
Xanh
Vn nhn
ai k lam
hng
Tht phm
Phc
u
Xanh
Bch hc
ai tc
hng
Tam phm, t phm

gia phong tc hu
Ng, lc, tht phm
358
Quan
vn
Tng
Bt phm v cc chc
ng tri ph hm tht
phm; tri huyn, tri
chu hm tng tht
phm, t ban, hun
o hm cu phm
Phc
u
Xanh
en
Tiu liu
ai sng
tru bc
thau
Cu phm
Phc
u
Xanh
en
Tiu liu
ai sng
tru bc
thau
Dy thao
n, eo
kim

Tng
Dy thao
n, eo
kim
(theo Loi ch)

Chu vua
Chc tc
Dy thao
n, eo
kim
Hong
t,
vng
B t
ai, Thao
Hong t, vng t
lm cc chc tam
thi, tam thiu m
c tc qun cng
Phc
u
Ta
Tam thi:
K ln;
Tam thiu:
Bch trch.
Thu bng
kim tuyn
-ai nh
k thch
bt vng
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc tam thi,

tam thiu c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
-Tam thi:
Bch trch;
Tam thiu:
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Hong t, vng t
lm cc chc t hu
c m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc t hu
c m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Hong t, vng
t lm cc chc
c ng tri, c
thim s m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
t,
quan
v
359
Cc chc c
ng tri, c
thim s m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
i mi
bt bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Hong t, vng
t lm cc chc
hiu kim, c,
lnh, tham c,
v s m c tc
qun cng
Nn
chp
bc,
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh, lt
ton
thn,
mu
S t
-Dy thao
kp xu
ht ngc
-eo
gm
hiu kim,
c, lnh, tham
c, v s m c
tc qun cng
Nn
chp
bc,
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh, lt
ton
thn,
mu
H bo
-Dy thao
kp
- eo
gm
Hong t, vng t
c tc qun cng
Sa, c
ch en
t ni
o trc
lnh,
mu
H bo
Cc chc cai qun,

cai i c tc qun
cng
Sa
o trc
lnh,
mu
Tng
Cc chc hiu
im, c, tham
c, ph c,
lnh th v, t hu
hiu im m c
tc hu
Nn
chp
bc,
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh, lt
ton
thn,
mu
Tng
Thu bng
t
-Dy thao
n.
- eo
gm
Cc chc ch huy
s, ch huy ng
tri, ch huy thim
s, ch huy s, ch
huy ng tri, ch
huy thim s, tng
tri, ng tng tri,
thim tng tri m c
tc hu
Nn sn
son
o trc
lnh,
mu
Tng
-Dy thao
n. eo
gm
360
-Dy thao
kp xu
ht ngc
-eo
gm
Cc chc l, trn
in qun tng
qun, lc s hiu y,
thin h, qun lnh,
ph l, chnh
y, ph thin
h, trung y, lang
tng, ph qun
lnh, bch h,
ht, ph trung y,
ph lang tng, ph
qun lnh, t hu
tin hu lang tng,
y, chnh v y,
ph ht, t hu
tin hu ph lang
tng, ph v y, v
y, ph y, ph
trung y
Nn
sn son,
chp
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh,
mu
-Dy thao
n.
-Chc trn
in cm
kim v
di ng.
-Cn li
cm roi v
kim
Cai i, ph cai i,
chnh i trng,
ph i trng
d trng coi qun
lnh m cha c
chc tc
M
Thanh
Ct
o
Thanh
Ct
khng
lt
-Cm
gm
Cc chc lm vic
ngoi nh tng
binh s, tng binh
ng tri, tng binh
thim s
-Dy thao
kp
- eo
gm
Quan
vn
Khi c l Biu (trc khi dng l mng ln

vua cha, chn ngy lm l dng biu), l Bi
(nhng ngy l chnh n, l sinh nht ca
vua cha, cc nha mn c lm l bi vng)
Phc
u
C
tc:
o ;
cha
c
tc:
o
xanh,
lc
Tng
-ai nh
g k lam
hng bt
thau.
-Hia, tt
bng l
Tam thi, tam thiu
Phc
u
Ta
Tin hc
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc.
Hia, bt tt
Thng th, ng s
Gii Tri
-Thng
th: Tin
hc. Ng
s: Gii tri
- ai nh
sng t bt
bc.
Hia, bt tt
T hu th lang
Phc
u
Sa k
- ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
Hia, bt tt
361
Cc chc tha ch,

ph ng s, tha
chnh s, i hc
s, t tu, th c,
thim
362
Phc
u.
-Ng s:
Gii Tri
-C
tc:
.
-Cha
c
tc:
xanh,
lc.
Khng
tc.
-Ng s:
Gii tri
- ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc t khanh,
tham chnh, ph
don, hc s, t
nghip, th ging,
th th, hiu th,
khoa, th ch,
hnh
Phc
u. -
hnh:
Gii Tri
Nh
trn
Khng
tc. -
hnh: Gii
tri
-ai nh
g k lam
hng bt
thau.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc cp s,
hin s
-Cp s:
Phc
u.
-Hin
s: Gii
Tri
Nh
trn
-Cp s:
Vn nhn.
-Hin s:
Gii tri
ai nh
g k lam
hng.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc hn lm
hiu l, hiu tho,
gim st ng s cc
o
-Hn
lm:
Phc
u.
-Cai o:
Gii Tri
Nh
trn
Hn lm:
Bch nhn.
Cai o:
Gii Tri
ai nh
g k lam
hng.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc thng
chnh s, thim s,
kinh lch
Cc chc thng
chnh s, tham
ngh, lang trung,
thiu thim s, hin
ph, thiu khanh,
thiu don, trung
th x nhn, t
thin lnh, ph
on s, vin ngoi
lang, thng chnh
tha, tri ph v
nhng chc t
khanh, thiu khanh
lm vic ngoi
-Thng th y phc cng nh Hn lm hiu

l. Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y
phc nh t khanh v khoa
-Phc
u.
-Ring
hin
ph:
Gii Tri
Dng
mu
xanh,
mu
lc
Anh v
(vt)
-ai nh
sng tru
bt thau.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc tu son,
gio th, hc chnh,
cp mn s, ng
tri ph, t v, chiu
gim, in th, tr
trung, thng phn,
lc s, in th, i
chiu, gim b, t
thin gim tha,
t mc hu mc,
cp mn ph s,
tri huyn, tri chu,
huyn tha, ng
quan chnh, chnh
t, ng tri chu,
quan, in b, t
ban, hun o
-Phc
u
Dng
mu
xanh
mu
en
Thun
am. (Liu
thun)
ai nh
sng tru
bt thau.
Hia, bt tt
Cc thi y vin i
s, vin s, ng y,
nghim bin, lng
y chnh, khn chn,
lng y ph, thi
quan th chnh,
ng vn nh nhc
th chnh, tha d
cc cc chnh, gio
phng ty chnh, t
thn lang
-Phc
u
-o
mu
xanh,
mu
en
Thun
am (Liu
thun)
ai nh
sng tru
bt thau.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc trng
s, bnh s, thng
s, chnh ph t
ngh, ph hiu y,
th c, ging d, v
y, tri b, s, tri
s, in s, ch b,
x mc, ngc tha,
cc hng thuc vin
tp lu
Sa n
dng
o
Thanh
Ct c
lt
Nhng ngi tn
tht thc th cc
chc lng chnh,
lng ph, lng tha
Phc
u
-C
tc:
mu
;
cha
tc
mu
xanh,
lc
363
Vn nhn
ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
-Hia, bt
tt
Ni
quan
Cc chc ni gim,
tng thi gim,
thi gim, chng
gim m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
Mu
H bo
ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc thi gim,

thim thi gim,
tham chng gim,
tham tri gim, ng
tri gim
Phc
u
C
tc:
mu
;
cha
tc:
mu
lc
Vn nhn
-ai nh
i mi
bt thau.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc t hu
thi gim, t hu
gim tha, t hu
im
Phc
u
C
tc:
mu
;
cha
tc:
mu
xanh,
lc,
en
Bch nhn
Cc chc phng
ng, gim b
364
Sa
-ai nh
g k lam
hng bt
thau. -Hia,
bt tt
o
Thanh
Ct
c lt,
khng
ph
hu
Nh
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
bc lnh
l
Tin
hc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng
t sc
bc
bc
lnh
l
Bch
trch
Tam
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai i
mi sc
bc
Cm
k
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
i
mi
sc
bc
S t
T
phm
Phc
u
sc
ng
thau
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc
on
thm
Khng
tc
Lc
Nn
bc
Tht
di
ai
mu
ta
Lc
Ng
phm
Phc
u
sc
ng
thau
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc
on
thm
Vn
nhn
Lc
Nn
bc
Tht
di
ai
mu
ta
Bo
Lc
Lc
phm
tr
xung
Phc
u
sc
ng
thau
ai tc
hng
vin
thau
bc
on
thm
Bch
nhn
Xanh
Nn
son
Tht
di
ai
mu
xanh
Tng
Xanh
Php quan i m Gii Tri, B t Gii tri

(theo Cng mc)
QUY CH TH PHC CHU CHA CA B QUAN

Phm
cp
Nht
phm
Quan vn
(theo Loi ch)
Quan v
ai
B t
Phc
sc
ai
B t
Phc
sc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
bc lnh
l
Tin
hc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng
t sc
bc
bc
lnh
l
Bch
trch
Chu cha
Chc tc
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc tam thi, ch en t
tam thiu m c tc
ni
qun cng
ai, Thao
o Thanh Ct,
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
365
Cc chc tam thi,

Sa
Hong tam thiu c tc qun
cng
t,
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc t hu ch en t
ni
vng c m c tc qun
cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc c ch en t
ng tri, c thim
ni
s m c tc qun
cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Cc chc c ng
tri, c thim s m
c tc qun cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc hiu ch en t
kim, c, lnh,
ni
tham c, v s m
c tc qun cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
-Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc.
-Cm gm
Cc chc hiu kim,

c, lnh, tham
c, v s m c
tc qun cng
o Thanh Ct
-Dy thao kp.

-Cm gm
t,
quan
v
366
Cc chc t hu c
m c tc qun cng
Sa
Sa
Sa
Sa, c
Hong t, vng t c ch en t
tc qun cng
ni
o trc lnh,
mu , B t
h bo
-Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc.
-eo gm
Cc chc cai qun, cai

i c tc qun cng
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
-Dy thao kp.

-Cm gm
Cc chc hiu im,

c, tham c, ph
c, lnh th v, t
hu hiu im m c
tc hu.
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
-Dy thao n.
-Cm gm
Cc chc ch huy s,
ch huy ng tri,
ch huy thim s, ch
huy s, ch huy ng
tri, ch huy thim s,
tng tri, ng tng tri,
thim tng tri m c
tc hu
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt
-Dy thao n.
-Cm gm
Cc chc l, trn
M Thanh
in qun tng qun,
Ct
lc s hiu y, thin
h, qun lnh, ph
l, chnh y, ph
thin h, trung y,
lang tng, ph qun
lnh, bch h, ht,
ph trung y, ph lang
tng, ph qun lnh,
t hu tin hu lang
tng, y, chnh
v y, ph ht, t
hu tin hu ph lang
tng, ph v y, v
y, ph y, ph
trung y
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Cai i, ph cai i,
M Thanh
chnh i trng, ph
Ct
i trng d trng
coi qun lnh m cha
c chc tc
o Thanh Ct
khng lt
Cm gm
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Cc chc lm vic
ngoi nh tng
binh s, tng binh
ng tri, tng binh
thim s
Quan
Sa
367
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc tha ch, ph

ng s, tha chnh
s, i hc s, t tu,
th c, thim
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc t khanh,
tham chnh, ph don,
hc s, t nghip, th
ging, th th, hiu
th, khoa, th ch,
hnh
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Cc chc cp s, hin
s
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Tam thi, tam thiu

vn
Thng th, ng s
T hu th lang
Cc chc hn lm hiu
l, hiu tho, gim st
ng s cc o
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
-Thng th y phc cng nh hn lm hiu l.

Cc chc thng chnh -Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y phc
s, thim s, kinh lch nh t khanh v khoa
368
Cc chc thng chnh

s, tham ngh, lang
trung, thiu thim s,
hin ph, thiu khanh,
thiu don, trung
th x nhn, t thin
lnh, ph on s,
vin ngoi lang, thng
chnh tha, tri ph v
nhng chc t khanh,
thiu khanh lm vic
ngoi
Sa
Cc chc tu son, gio

th, hc chnh, cp
mn s, ng tri ph,
t v, chiu gim, in
th, tr trung, thng
phn, lc s, in th,
i chiu, gim b,
t thin gim tha,
t mc hu mc, cp
mn ph s, tri huyn,
tri chu, huyn tha,
ng quan chnh, chnh
t, ng tri chu,
quan, in b, t ban,
hun o
Sa
Cc thi y vin i s,
vin s, ng y, nghim
bin, lng y chnh,
khn chn, lng y
ph, thi quan th
chnh, ng vn nh
nhc th chnh, tha
d cc cc chnh, gio
phng ty chnh, t
thn lang
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Dy thao n
Ni
quan
Dy thao n
Cc chc trng s,
bnh s, thng s,
chnh ph t nghi,
ph hiu y, th c,
ging d, v y, tri b,
s, tri s, in s,
ch b, x mc, ngc
tha, v cc hng
thuc vin tp lu
Sa n
dng
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Nhng ngi tn tht

thc th cc chc lng
chnh, lng ph, lng
tha
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc ni gim,
tng thi gim, thi
gim, chng gim m
c tc qun cng
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc thi gim,

thim thi gim, tham
chng gim, tham tri
gim, ng tri gim
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Cc chc t hu thi
gim, t hu gim
tha, t hu im
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
Dy thao n
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
Cc chc phng ng,

gim b
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Chc tc
o m
Cc chc x nhn, n li,

tng thn li, lnh s, ni
th t th t cai ty, cai hp, th
hp tr ln, th ni vn chc
th t nho sinh trng thc,
gim sinh tr ln
-Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Sa n

dng, o Thanh Ct c lt, khng c ph hu
Trung th snh, cc chc

hoa vn hc sinh, n li, x
nhn, tng thn li, lnh s,
th t, ni th t; cc vn
nha mn th cc chc li,
li, in li, thng li
-Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Thanh Ct,

o Thanh Ct khng lt
Nhng nho sinh trng thc,

gim sinh, nho sinh, x chnh,
x s, x t, sinh , quan
vin t tn, nhiu nam
-Dng m Sa n dng, o Thanh Ct vi o

ngn lt, khng c ph hu, dy thao n
- trong lng th cho dng m Sa, o Thanh

Ct c lt, dy thao n; o mc thng cho
dng cc th the, l, vi, la
369
Hong t, vng t cha c

chc tc
-Khi vo hu ni cung th dng m Lng

Cn, o sa en
-Thng phc dng cc th gm vc c hoa
mu
Hong t, vng t t chc t

hu c, c tc qun cng
tr ln
-Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct

c ph hu v khng lt.
mu.
Hong t, vng t t chc

c ng tri c tc qun cng
tr xung

c ph hu v c lt
Con chu cc quan vn v,

c phong m tr ln
-Khi vo hu lm vic th con chu quan vn

dng m Sa n dng, con chu quan v
dng m Thanh Ct, u dng o Thanh Ct c
lt
Dn gian th t cc chc sc
tr xung
-Y phc u dng cc th gai, the, vi, la,

khng c lt

NH NGUYN NM 1804
(theo Hi in)
370
Phm
trt
Trn
nht
phm
(Tn
nhn
ph
tn
nhn
lnh)
Ban vn
Phc u
trn, m
ca quan
chnh
nht
phm nh
trn. m
ca quan
tng nht
phm 1
kha kiu
vng, 2
ht vng
cao 5
phn, cn
li nh
trn
-Mng
bo c
trn,
cc mu
xanh, lc,
lam, en
ty nghi
Chnh
tng
nh
phm
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
vng, hoa
vng
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng, sc
giao long
vng
Nh trn
Chnh
tng
tam
phm
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
vng,
hoa vng
mt
trc v
mt sau;
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng
Nh trn
Ban v
Y,
thng,
B t
ai, hia,
tt
Y,
thng,
B t
ai,
hia
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
vng, 2
ht vng
cao 6
phn;
ngch
tng
vng, hoa
vng
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng, sc
giao long
vng
-Mng
bo c
trn, mu
ta
-ai: sc
ton vng,
mt trc
v sau u
tr mt
hnh rng
bn mng;
cn li tr
Tin hc,
nn
Phc u
vung
1 kha
kiu
vng, 2
ht vng
cao 5
phn; cn
li nh
quan vn
-Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu K
ln
-Nh
ban
vn;
ai tr
K ln
-Thng
thu Tin
hc xen
hoa, mu
Chnh
tng
nht
phm
-Hia u
vung
mu en
-Bt tt
vin gm
Nh trn
Phc u
vung
-Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu K
ln
-Nh
ban
vn;
ai tr
K ln
-ai: sc
ton vng,
mt trc
v sau ai
u tr
hnh Tin
hc; cn
li, tr
hnh hoa,
nn
Phc u
vung
Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu
Bch
trch
-Nh
ban
vn;
ai tr
Bch
trch
ai: sc
ton
vng, b
mt vng
khng
chm tr,
nn
Phc u
vung
Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu S
t
Nh
ban
vn
-Thng
thu Tin
hc xen
hoa, mu
371
Chnh
Tng
t
phm
372
Chnh
tng
ng
phm
Chnh
tng
lc
phm
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
bc, hoa
vng
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng
-Hoa bo
c trn
(thu
hoa),
cc mu
xanh, lc,
lam, en
ty nghi
-Thng:
lm bng
sa, on;
mu
xanh, lc
ty nghi;
nn hoa
trn, mu
, thu
Khng
tc vin
gm
ai: mt
i mi,
hai vin
di ca ba
ming i
mi pha
trc bc
vng, cn
li u bc
bc, nn
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
bc, hoa
bc
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
bc
-o bo
c trn
lm bng
sa, on,
nh B
t thu
Vn
nhn,
nn ;
cc mu
xanh, lc,
lam, en
ty nghi
ai: mt
i mi
bc bc,
nn
Phc u
trn, hoa
bc
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
bc
Nh trn,
B t
thu Bch
nhn
ai: ba
ming
pha trc
mt i
mi, cn
li l sng
en, u
bc bc,
nn ai
Phc u
vung
-Chnh
t phm:
o Giao
bo
(thu
giao
long) c
trn
Nh
ban
vn
Chnh
tng
tht
phm
Phc u
trn, hoa
bc trc
sau u
1 bng,
hai cnh
chun
vin trn
-Tng t
phm:
o Hoa
bo
(thu
hoa) c
trn,
cc mu
xanh,
lc, lam,
en ty
nghi
Phc u
vung
-o bo
nh ban
vn ng
phm,
B t
thu Bo
Nh
trn, B
t thu
L t;
tng tht
phm B
t thu
L t nn
xanh
-ai: mt
sng en
bc bc,
nn
- Bt tt:
mu thi
lc
-Thng:
lm bng
sa, on,
mu
xanh, lc
ty nghi;
phn
mu
thi lc
hai bn
thng
khng
thu hoa
trn.
Nh
ban
vn
373
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN VN V
-Thng
thu Bo
TRIU NGUYN NM 1845

(theo Hi in)
Phc u
vung
-o bo
nh ban
vn lc
phm,
B t
thu
Hng
-Thng
thu
Hng
Nh
ban
vn
Ban vn
Ban v
Quan vn i m Phc u trn, quan v i m Phc u vung,

thn ai u dng tre thuc (thc sa trc) bc on mu xch v.
M
Y, thng,
B t
ai, hia, tt
Y,
thng,
B t
ai,
hia
374
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
vng, 1 ngch
tng vng
cao 4 phn,
pha ngoi
tr hnh giao
long; 2 kha
gin vng;
pha trc 1
hoa vng, 2
giao long vng;
pha sau 2 hoa
vng; hai cnh
chun vin
bc vng, b
mt sc giao
long bn ngc
bng vng, u
cnh chun
u sc vng;
2 nh vng,
2 nhiu tuyn
vng
-o bo mu
c ng, may
bng on
Bt ti thu
hnh T linh,
t ng sc gia
vng.
-Thng
lm bng sa
mt, t mu
hoa xch ng
sc gia vng,
thu hnh
Tin hc
Phc u trn,
trang sc nh
chnh cht
phm, ring
ngch tng
cao 3 phn,
tr hnh hoa;
mt m khng
c ngc chu;
u hai cnh
chun khng
sc vng
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
vng; 2 kha
gin vng;
pha trc 1
hoa vng, 2
giao long vng;
pha sau 2 hoa
vng; hai cnh
chun vin
bc vng, b
mt sc giao
long vng; 2
nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn
vng
-ai: tng
cng 18
ming ai
pha trc
sau, phi
tri, vung
di, dt; 2
mc bc;
ming
chnh gia
pha trc
v hai
ming hnh
qu trm
hai bn
phi tri
u khm
vng, tr
hnh hoa,
cc ming
cn li b
mt khm
i mi,
u bc bc
Phc u
vung
(Tuy
Hi in
khng ghi
chp c
th, song
tranh nh
th k XX
cho thy,
quy ch
m Phc
u nm
1845 ca
quan v
tng t
nh quan
vn, song
s gia
gim nh
quy ch
nm 1804)
-o bo mu
thin thanh
dng on
Bt ti thu
hnh T linh,
t ng sc gia
vng
-Thng nh
quan chnh
nht phm
ai: 13
ming pha
trc v hai
bn phi
tri u bc
t kim; 5
ming pha
sau bc
bc; mt ai
khm i
mi
Phc u
vung,
trang
sc nh
quan vn
tng nht
phm
-o bo mu
cam bch,
dng on
Bt ti thu T
linh, t ng
sc gia vng.
-Thng nh
quan chnh
nht phm
-ai: trong
13 ming
pha trc
v hai bn
phi tri
c 7 ming
nm trong
bc t kim,
6 ming bc
bc, so le; 5
ming pha
sau bc bc;
tt c u
khm i
mi ln b
mt
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn chnh
nh phm
Nh quan vn
nht phm;
thng thu hnh
K ln
-Nh
quan
vn
chnh
nh
phm
-Thng
thu
hnh
Bch
trch
-Nh
quan
vn
chnh
nh
phm
Phc u
trn, trang sc
nh chnh nh
phm, ring
m b trang
sc giao long
mt cnh
chun
-o bo nh
chnh nh
phm, ring
dng mu
quan lc
-Thng nh
quan chnh
nh phm
-ai: Ming
vung pha
trc v
hai ming
hnh qu
trm hai
bn phi
tri u
bc t kim,
14 ming
cn li bc
bc, b mt
khm i
mi
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn tng
nh phm
-Nh
quan
vn
tng nh
phm
-Thng
thu
hnh
Bch
trch
Nh
quan
vn
tng
nh
phm
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
vng, 2 kha
gin vng, pha
trc pha sau
u c 1 hoa
vng, 2 giao
long vng, 2
cnh chun
vin bc vng,
2 nh vng,
2 nhiu tuyn
vng
-o bo nh
quan nh
phm. Ring
dng mu
bo lam
-Thng nh
quan nh
phm, ring
dng mu
xch mc,
thu hnh
Cm k
-ai: 18
ming u
bc bc,
mt khm
i mi
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn chnh
tam phm
-Nh
quan
vn
chnh
tam
phm
-Thng
thu
hnh S
t
Nh
quan
vn
chnh
tam
phm
Phc u trn,
trang sc nh
chnh tam
phm, ring
b 2 giao long
vng
-o bo nh
chnh tam
phm, ring
dng mu
ngc lam
-Thng nh
quan chnh
tam phm
ai: Nh
quan chnh
tam phm,
mt khm
sng Bch
hoa
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn tng
tam phm
Nh
quan
vn tng
tam
phm;
Thng
thu S
t
Nh
quan
vn
tng
tam
phm
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
bc, 2 kha
gin vng,
pha trc v
sau u 1 hoa
vng, hai cnh
chun vin
bc vng, 2
nh bc, 2
nhiu tuyn
bc
-o bo dng
tru thu
giao long
mu quan
lc, t ng
sc gia vng.
-Thng
lm bng sa
mt, t mu
bo lam ng
sc gia vng,
thu hnh
Khng tc
ai: 13
ming pha
trc v
hai bn
tri phi
bc bc; 5
ming pha
sau bc
ng; tt c
u khm
sng hoa
(hoa gic)
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn t
phm
Nh
quan
vn t
phm;
Thng
thu
hnh H
Nh
quan
vn t
phm
375
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA MT S V HONG T, HONG THN,

TN THT NH NGUYN NM 1845
(theo Hi in)
376
Phc u trn,
trang sc nh
quan t phm,
nhng cc
trang sc ton
bng bc
-o bo dng
tru thu hoa
mu bo lam,
t ng sc gia
vng.
-Thng lm
bng sa mt,
t mu quan
lc ng sc
gia vng
-B t dng
on mu
xch v, thu
Vn nhn
-ai: 9
ming pha
trc v
hai bn tri
phi bc
bc v ng
xen k; 3
ming pha
sau bc
ng; tt c
u khm
sng hoa
Phc u trn,
pha trc, sau
u c 1 hoa
bc; hai cnh
chun vin
bc bc; 2 nh
bc, 2 nhiu
tuyn bc
-o bo dng
tru bng
mu ngc
lam
-Thng
dng sa T
mu quan
lc.
-B t dng
on mu
xch v, thu
hnh Bch
nhn
-ai: ming
chnh gia
pha trc
bc bc,
9 ming
cn li bc
ng; tt c
u khm
sng hoa
ng s, ph ng s v cc chc khoa
o chng n vn cp cho m Gii Tri c
hai sng bc th (nay) i 2 kha gin vng
thnh 2 giao long bng vng v bc
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn ng
phm
-Nh
quan
vn t
phm
-B t
thu
hnh Bo
Nh
quan
vn t
phm
Y, thng, B t
ai
Tn tht
c
phong
tc thn
vng,
qun
vng
Phc u vung,
1 bc sn vng, 1
ngch tng vng
cao 4 phn tr hnh
giao long, 2 kha gin
vng, pha trc 1
hoa vng, 2 giao long
vng, pha sau 2 hoa
vng. Hai cnh chun
vin bc vng, b mt
sc giao long vng
vn ngc chu, u
cnh chun u sc
vng, 2 nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn vng
-o bo T linh
mu chn lan lm
bng on Bt ti
ng sc gia kim.
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu hoa
xch ng sc gia
kim, thu hnh K
ln
-ai ming chnh

gia pha trc
v 2 ming hnh
dt hai bn phi
tri, b mt u
tr hnh hoa khm
vng, cn li b
mt khm mai i
mi, u bc vng
t kim
Tn tht
c
phong tc
thn cng,
quc cng
Phc u vung, 1
bc sn vng, 1 ngch
tng vng cao 3
phn tr hnh hoa, 2
kha gin vng, pha
trc 1 hoa vng, 2
giao long vng, pha
sau 2 hoa vng, 2 cnh
chun vin bc vng,
2 giao long vng, 2
nh vng, 2 nhiu
tuyn vng
-o bo T linh
mu chn lan lm
bng on Bt ti
ng sc gia kim.
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu hoa
xch ng sc gia
kim, thu hnh K
ln
-ai 13 ming pha

trc v hai bn
phi tri bc vng
t kim, 5 ming
pha sau bc bc,
b mt u khm
mai i mi
Tn tht
c
phong tc
qun cng,
huyn
cng
Phc u vung, 1
bc sn vng, 2 kha
gin vng, pha trc
1 hoa vng, 2 giao
long vng, pha sau
2 hoa vng, 2 cnh
chun vin bc vng,
b mt sc giao long
vng, 2 nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn vng
-o bo T linh
mu t n lm
bng on Bt ti
ng sc gia kim
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu hoa
xch ng sc gia
kim, thu Bch
trch
ai 13 ming
pha trc v hai
bn phi tri c 7
ming bc vng
t kim, 6 ming
bc bc, xen k. 5
ming pha sau bc
bc, b mt u
khm mai i mi
377

NH NGUYN
(theo Hi in)
378
Tn tht
c
phong
hng
cng,
huyn hu,
hng hu
Phc u vung,
so vi tn tht c
phong tc qun
cng, m Phc u
vung lc i 1 hoa
vng pha sau, mt
m lc trang sc
giao long vng
-o bo T linh
mu xch
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu mc
xch thu S t
ai 18 ming u
bc bc
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong k
ngoi hu,
k ni hu,
nh hu,
tr quc
khanh
Phc u vung, 1
bc sn bc, 2 kha
gin vng, trc sau
1 hoa vng, hai cnh
chun vin bc bc,
2 nh bc, 2 nhiu
tuyn bc
-o Giao bo mu
ging chu lm
bng tru ng sc
gia kim.
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu quan
lc thu H.
ai 13 ming pha
trc v hai bn
phi tri bc bc. 5
ming pha sau bc
ng, b mt u
khm hoa gic
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
t quc
khanh,
phng
quc
khanh, tr
quc y, t
quc y
Phc u vung,1 bc
sn bc, 2 kha gin
bc, trc sau 1 hoa
bc, hai cnh chun
vin bc bc, 2 nh
bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
bc
-o Hoa bo mu
tng lm bng
tru ng sc gia
kim
-Thng lm bng
sa T hoa mu
quan lc
-B t lm bng t
v ti , thu Bo
ai 9 ming pha
trc v hai bn
phi tri bc bc
v ng xen k, 3
ming pha sau bc
ng, b mt u
khm hoa gic
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
phng
quc y,
tr quc
lang, t
quc lang,
phng
quc lang
Phc u vung,
trc sau 1 hoa bc,
hai cnh chun vin
bc bc, 2 nh bc,
2 nhiu tuyn bc
-o bo mu
tng m thu
2 hoa , lm bng
on Bt ti
-Thng lm bng
sa T hoa mu
quan lc.
-B t lm bng t
v ty , thu gu
ai 1 ming chnh
gia pha trc bc
bc, 9 ming cn
li bc ng, b
mt u khm hoa
gic
Quan vn
Quan v
Y, thng
B t
B t
Trn
nht
phm
Vn Cng:
sc ton bng
vng, hai di
thy anh trang
sc kim hoa
khm ngc
chu
Tin hc,
hoa
H u:
sc ton
bng vng
K ln
-o giao lnh
c trng, lm
bng sa, on,
mu xanh,
lc, lam, en
ty nghi
-Thng nn
dt vng
Nht
phm
Vn Cng:
sc ton bng
vng
Tin hc
H u
K ln
Nh trn
Nh
phm
Vn Cng
Tin hc
H u
Bch
trch
Nh trn
Tam
phm
Vn Cng
Cm k
H u
S t
Nh trn
T
phm
ng Pha: hoa
vng mt
trc v sau,
cc trang sc
nh ph nh
hoa, giao long
u dng bc
Khng tc
Xun Thu
-o giao lnh,
mu c o
nh mu o,
lm bng sa,
on; cc mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho ty
nghi
-Thng nn
Ng
phm
ng Pha:
pha trc 2
hoa bc, 2 giao
long bc, pha
sau 1 hoa bc
2 giao long bc
Vn nhn
Xun Thu
Bo
Nh trn
Lc
phm
ng Pha:
pha trc 1
hoa bc, 2 giao
long bc; pha
sau 1 hoa bc
Bch nhn
Xun Thu
(Quan v
t tht
phm tr
xung ch
t tng,
khng t
chnh)
Hng
Nh trn
379
TIU T IN
TRANG PHC VIT NAM
Anh Cn: m ca quan v cha nhp

Tht
phm
Bt
phm
Vn T Ti:
pha trc 1
hoa bc, 2 giao
long bc, pha
sau 1 hoa bc
Vn T Ti:
pha trc 1
hoa bc, sau 1
hoa bc
L t
(chnh: nn
, tng:
nn xanh)
Kh xch
380
Cu
phm
Cha
nhp
lu
Vn T Ti:
pha trc 1
hoa bc
Phong Cn:
trc sau u
sc 1 si bc
Liu thun
nn xanh
Tng tht
phm i
Vn T Ti
nh vn
chnh tht
phm
Tng bt
phm i
Vn T Ti
nh vn
chnh bt
phm
Tng bu
phm i
Vn T Ti
nh chnh
cu phm
Tuy Cn:
trc sau
u sc 1
si bc
Bu
tng:
nn
xanh
Hi m
T
ngu
nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi
-o nh trn
-Thng: lm
bng sa, on,
mu xanh, lc
ty nghi; phn
mu thi
lc hai bn
thng khng
thu hoa trn
lu triu Nguyn.
o Cu bn ngoi l da, bn trong l lng,
Bnh nh: loi m nh phng ni
-o giao lnh
mu gc bng
sa, on; mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho ty
nghi.
-Thng: Nh
trn
c lm bng lng co (H Cu) hoc
chung. Vo thi L Trung Hng, danh xng
lng chn (iu Cu).
Bnh nh c ch loi m t ca vua cha
Nh trn
o b ba: loi o vt ngn khng bu, x
hoc sa the, nh phng, trn may cnh hoa
gia, ci bng cc, ph bin Nam B.
cc my lp m ln nhau, quanh m gp
o cht: Xem o (di) nm thn.
np, di dy buc ngang trn, bung phn
o Cu: mt trong nhng loi o trnh
tha ra sau gy v hai tai c dim r, gn
rt ca gii trung lu, qu tc. Vit Nam,
tng t m Bao nh.
o (di) nm thn: ch loi o may bng
v cc quan. n thi Nguyn, t nm 1816,
nm kh vi (vt trc hai kh, vt sau hai
danh xng ny ch loi m i triu ca cc
kh, thn bn phi di ra mt kh ngn
hong t, hong thn c ban tc thn
na), phn bit vi cc dng o c may
vng, qun vng, thn cng, qun cng.
bng bn kh vi nh o t thn, o giao

lnh.
Bn long: ch hoa vn rng trn (rng )
thu trn o bo.
o giao lnh
mu gc bng
sa, on; mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho ty
nghi
L Trung Hng, lm bng on mu huyn
Bao Cn: m Thng triu ca vng,

hu tc ngn thi Trn.
Bnh Thin: 1. tn gi khc ca m

Min. 2. tn gi khc ca loi m Triu
phc Bnh nh ca hong t, hong thn
c ban tc thn vng, qun vng,
thn cng, qun cng triu Nguyn. Xem:
Min, Bnh nh.
Bao nh: m Tin phc ca cc v vn
B phc: ch Bo phc gn B t.
nhn, quan li qu tc thi L Trung Hng,
B t: cn gi l Hung bi, ch vung vi
kiu dng trn, nh phng, cao khong
thu hnh chim th gn trc ngc v sau
mt thc, lm bng lng ui nga, nn
lng o bo, dng phn bit phm cp
cn gi l M v Bao nh.
ca b quan. Quy ch trang phc Thng
Bo phc: hay o bo, ch loi trang
triu Hung bi - B t nh hnh vo thi
phc mc khi thit triu ca vua quan
vua Minh Thi T - Trung Quc, c p
phong kin.
dng vo triu nh Vit Nam t nm 1471.
Bt bo: tm dng hoa vn thu trn o

bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn.
Bt Tin: loi m trang trng ca vn
Bi: cn gi l thy bi, ch di ngc eo

hai bn hng, c gn kt bng cc loi
ngc c hnh th khc nhau.
381
Bn Hoa: loi m Thng phc p dng
c o giao lnh, thu cc hoa vn Ph, Pht,
Cu Long Thng Thin: cn c gi
cho th v nhn thuc ngch Tng quan
Sn, Ha Ring o Cn ca vua c
l m Cu Long, hoc m Xung Thin, m
inh T: cn gi l m Nhc, loi m
ca nh Trn.
thu hoa vn Nht, Nguyt hai vai, Long
Triu phc ca hong triu Nguyn, c
c kiu dng ch inh nm ngang, trn
hai ng tay o.
kiu dng tng t m Xung Thin triu
m thng, cong trn dn khi ti nh, vn
L, ring quy ch trang sc trn m c s
ra sau gy. y l loi m Thng phc ca
khc bit.
cc quan vn v nh Trn k t nm 1301,
Bc Cn: loi m trang trng ca vn

nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi L
Cn Min: tn gi tt ca b L phc o
Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t m ni,
Cn, m Min, l trang phc dnh ring
song hai bn mang tai c hai di tht, tht
cho vng v vng cng i thn s
Dng ng: 1. mt trong nhng dng
li sau u.
dng trong cc dp i l nh t tri t,
hoa vn hnh hoa thi Trn, L. 2. m Triu
ca Trung Quc nn gi l u Mu.
v l dng m c s dng rng ri trong

qun i v dn gian thi L Trung Hng.
Cch i: ai da ni chung, hnh trn,
l ln ngi v.v., vo thi vua L Hin Tng
phc ca Ni quan thi Trn, phm trt
on lnh: cng gi l vin lnh, nm na
trn ai c gn cc ming trang sc hnh
cn c s dng lm L phc khi vua cy
ca cc quan c phn bit da vo s
gi l o c king, ch loi o c trn, gi
vung, hnh trn hoc hnh qu trm. ai
Tch in. B L phc ny b ph b vo
hnh ong bm sc trn m. 3. m Triu
cc bn vai phi. Vo thi L, Nguyn, o
thng to rng, ch mang tnh trang sc.
thi L Trung Hng v c khi phc vo
phc ca hong t, vng t c phong
on lnh ch c dng trong nhng bui

i triu.
Cao Sn: m Thng phc ca cc
thi vua Minh Mng triu Nguyn. Vo thi
tc quc cng triu L Trung Hng, kiu
quan vn t nht phm n lc phm thi
Nguyn, Cn Min ch c s dng trong
dng nh m Phc u, duy pha sau cao
ng Pha: m Thng phc p dng
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396, m Thng
dp t Nam Giao.
hn, hai cnh chun c khi c nm vng.
cho quan vn t, ng, lc phm triu
phc ca vn v b quan, gio th Quc T
Cn phc: tn gi chung ca o Cn v
a La: cn gi l a La Ni, hay La Ni,
Nguyn, l ph pha sau m c ln
Gim v gio vin cc l, huyn thi L s
tt c phc sc i km nh thng, t tt,
u ch cng mt loi vi gai, phn ln c
theo hnh sng, gy m nh hai di anh r
t nm 1434 n nm 1437.
i i, cch i, bi, th v.v.
mu xanh v . Vo thi L Trung Hng,
xung lng.
Cn hon: loi trang sc hnh trn c
Cng phc: 1.vn ng ngha vi khi
nh vo hai bn m Ton Hoa thi Trn.
nim Thng phc, tc trang phc mc
loi m inh T c lm t cht liu vi

gai ny c gi l m a La.
ng Cn: 1. loi m Tin phc c

lm bng the en, tng t kiu dng m
Chit Xung: m Thng phc ca cc
vo nhng bui thng triu ngy 5, 10,
ai: th phc sc eo ngang lng bn
Phc u, ring hai cnh chun c ct lm
quan v t nht phm n lc phm thi
20, 25, t th k XV tr v sau ch loi trang
ngoi o bo, c gn cc ming trang sc
bng ct my, bung ra sau, choi sang
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
phc vua quan mc vo nhng bui chu
hnh trn, hnh qu trm lm bng kim loi
hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . 2. loi m
Chng: cc hoa vn thu trn L phc
mng mt v ngy rm. 2. ch loi trang
hoc i mi, c x qua hai dy tht
Thng phc ca vua v l m Triu phc
Cn Min, tng trng cho tri t vn vt,
phc trang trng ca nho s v dn thng.
di ra t nch o, m ly ngi, thng ch
ca hong thi t nh Nguyn, m c phn
gm Nht (mt tri), Nguyt (mt trng),
Cng Thn: loi m Triu phc dnh
mang tnh trang sc
gy nh cao, chm khum trn chm v
Tinh thn (sao), Sn (ni), Long (rng), Hoa
cho cc v vng, hu, minh t thi L -
i i: 1. ai tht lng, c hai di to
trng (chim tr), Tng di (cc tng miu,
Trn, phm trt c phn bit bi s bc
bn bung xung di chn, cn gi l
c hnh h v kh), To (rong), Ha (la),
v s trang sc ong bm trn m.
pha trc, choi sang hai bn thnh hnh

ch Bt .
thn. 2. di la mu xanh trong Cn phc
Gic nh: m Thng phc ca cc v
Cu Long: Xem Cu Long Thng Thin.
ca vua quan triu Nguyn; mt u di la
c tc cao m khng c chc trong triu
C : tn gi ca mt s dng hoa vn
Cu Long ng Cn: cn gi l ng
c tht ai da pha trc, sau vng
nh Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
thu trn o bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn.
Cn, loi m Thng phc ca hong
qua vai, c nh li phn ai sau lng.
C king. Xem: on lnh.
triu Nguyn, m c phn gy nh cao,
Xem: Thn.
Cn: cn gi l Long Cn, hoc Cn
chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi
u Mu: cn gi l m Tr, bo v
linh th mt sng, bn tnh ngay thng,
Long y, loi o trong L phc Cn Min,
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Xem:
phn u ca binh s khi gio mc, v hnh
thng c to hnh tng t k ln.
thng c mu xanh sm hoc mu huyn,
ng Cn.
dng ging chic mu, mt loi ni thi c
Ngay t thi Hn, triu nh Trung Quc
Phn m (go), Ph (ru), Pht (ch ).
382
Gii Tri: m ca php quan cc triu

L, L, Nguyn. Gii tri tng truyn l
383
m phng sng gii tri ch ra loi m
sau khng thy na, ti Vit Nam hin ch
hu v hng hu triu Nguyn, thng kt
dy ngc r pha trc v pha sau, gi l
p dng cho cc quan thc thi php lut,
thy qua tm ngi c nin i thi Trn.
hp vi o bo T linh mu .
lu. Xem: Lu.
nhm nhn gi nim v lng tri v s
Hoa bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc
cng bng. Triu nh nh L, L, Nguyn
hnh hoa trn thi Nguyn.
L phc: ch loi trang phc vua quan

mc vo cc bui cng t, l tit, cng c
Min bn: cn gi l din, vn p hnh

vung (hoc ch nht) trn m Min.
Vit Nam u p dng m Gii Tri cho cc
Honh: tn gi ca mt loi dy trn
v php quan, tuy nhin kiu dng m mo
m Min gi m c nh trn u, mt
mi thi mi khc bit, thi L m ny c
u dy buc trm ngc ci trn m, sau
kiu dng Lng Quan, cn thi Nguyn c
vng qua cm vt ln u kia ca trm.
Lng Cn: 1. loi m thi vua L Thnh
nhn u, vua v i thn cm tay trong
kiu dng Phc u.
Trm dng c nh bi tc. Vo thi
Tng, c lm bng lng ui nga, tn
cc bui i l, tnh cht tng t ht. Xem:
Nguyn, dy honh c thay th bng dy
m c ngha l m mt v thng c
Ht.
thy anh. Xem: Thy anh.
s dng vo ma h. 2. loi m i khi vo
Ng i: loi phc sc eo trn ai
Giao bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc

hnh giao long dng trn thi Nguyn.
khi c gi l T phc.
M Nhc. Xem: inh T.
Long bo: loi o bo thu hnh rng
M Tr. Xem: u Mu.
ca vua cha ni chung.
Ngc khu: ming ngc hnh ch nht,
Giao lnh: cng gi l trc lnh, trng
Ht: ming ng (hoc g, tre) hnh ch
chu ca hong t, vng t cha c
ca cc quan vn. Trung Quc vo thi
lnh, nm na gi l o trng vt, ch loi o
nht, cc quan cm tay trong cc bui i
phong tc theo quy ch nm 1661. 3. loi
ng, Ng i c dng ph hiu mang
c bt cho trc ngc, nh loi o trng
l, thit triu, tnh cht tng t ngc khu.
m Th phc chu cha ca cc quan vn
hnh con c, ng trong ti, dng nh th
ca cc nh s chng ta vn thy hin nay.
Xem: Ngc khu.
theo quy ch nm 1721.
bi ra vo i ni. n thi Tng, Ng
Gip Minh Quang: loi o gip hon
Hung bi. Xem: B t.
Lng Quan: cn gi l m Tin Hin,
i khng cn c ng trong ti m
b vo thi ng vi c trng l hai tm
K y: loi o trng c trn cc tay, kt
c cc vin lng trang sc chy dc trn
dng vng bc trc tip ch thnh hnh
h tm hnh trn trc ngc v hai ming
hp vi thng, c mc lt bn trong L
thn m, s vin lng c dng phn
con c eo ai, ch mang tnh trang sc,
trang sc hnh u h gn hai bn vai.
phc, Triu phc v Thng phc ca vua
bit phm cp ca b quan.
t s cao sang vinh hin. Ng i xut hin
Gip Tr: tn gi chung ca o Gip v
quan, qu tc triu Nguyn.
m Tr. Xem: u Mu.
Lu: 1. tn gi ca cc chui ngc chu
ti Vit Nam mun nht l vo nm 798, b
Khn xp: khn vn tc ca n ng
nh hai u Min bn trn m Min. S
Giy Tch: loi giy c hai lp , lp
c qun xp np u n, cht theo kiu
lu c quy nh da vo thn phn ca
Nht Bnh: o Triu phc dnh cho
trn lm bng gai hoc da, lp di lm
ch Nht , hoc ch Nhn gia trn.
ngi i m, nh m ca hong c 12
cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai v l Thng
bng g. Giy Tch vn l loi giy thi Hn,
Khong nm 1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi ch
lu, m ca vng cng c 9 lu. 2. tn ca
phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu, cng
v sau ch cn c s dng vo nhng dp
ra loi khn khu dn lin nhng vnh np
loi di tht Bo phc ca vua v hong
cha triu Nguyn. y l loi o x c, c
i l. T nm 1396 n 1404, triu nh
li, ch vic t chp ln u cho nhanh
hu triu Nguyn.
dng i khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh
Trn - H quy nh vn v b quan t lc
chng v thun tin, gi l khn xp.
M qui: loi o c trn cc tay, m
ph b vo thi L s.
ch nht trc ngc, di c c di vi
phm tr ln u c i giy Tch trong
Kh: mc pha di ca n ng, c
cc bui Thng triu. Vo thi L s, triu
khi ch chic qun hai ng, cng c khi ch
Mng bo. Xem: T linh bo.
nh nh L vn thng thng giy Tch
dng khn qun quanh eo v i che h b.
Mng lan: dng o hp tay, c li thu
tng, thn trn, hai cnh chun trn v to
Khc Phi: m Thng phc ca quan
sc tng t nh Mng bo, song chiu di
bn. M ny vn c ch ra da trn kiu
ng s i thi Trn - H k t sau nm
vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng
dng m Phc u. Xem: Phc u.
1396.
bo, c p dng cho mt s v quan v
cho cng thn.

H u: m Thng phc p dng cho
quan v nht, nh, tam phm triu Nguyn.
ngc, ci bng cc, mc lt bn trong.
buc hai vt o.
Sa: m dnh cho quan vn, c hai
Phong Cn: cn gi l m T Ti, loi
H Quan: loi m lm bng st, c hnh
Kim Quan: loi m Triu phc ca
u h, xut hin ti Trung Quc vo thi
hong t, hong thn c phong tc
Min: cn gi l m Lu Min, m Bnh
v l m L phc ca dn gian, kiu dng
Ty ng - Ng i, t thi Tng tr v
qun cng, huyn cng, hng cng, huyn
Thin, c vn p hnh ch nht, nh cc
tng t m Vn T Ti, song khng c
384
triu Nguyn.
m p dng cho quan vn cha nhp lu
385
trang sc, khng thu hoa, mu en tuyn.

Xem: ng Pha, Vn T Ti.
Phc u: loi m hai tng, tng sau
Phng bo: o bo thu hnh chim
tam sn (ba ngn ni) nh gia trn m.
Thng Thin: tn gi khc ca m
phng ca hu phi triu Nguyn ni
T tt: vung vi hnh ch nht che pha
Quyn Vn vo thi Trn, m Triu Thin
trc h th, mt trong nhng ph kin ca
vo thi L, v m Xung Thin vo thi
L phc Cn Min.
Nguyn. Xem: Quyn Vn, Triu Thin,
chung.
nh cao hn tng trc, l ni cha bi tc,
Phng ng t phc: dng o bo Triu
gy m nh hai cnh chun nm ngang.
phc ca tc hu, minh t thi Trn, trn
M Phc u thi Tng c dng vung vc.
o thu hoa vn phng c.
Thi bo: tn gi chung ca cc loi o
Xung Thin.
bo c thu hoa vn sc s.
Th: cn gi t th, di tt bng cc
Nh Minh v sau da theo kiu dng m
Phng Quan: m Triu phc ca hu
Thi C: m Thng phc ca cc quan
si t tht sau lng, gm i th, di tt
Phc u thi Tng ch ra mt dng m
phi triu Nguyn, ngi th c phn bit
vn v chnh tht phm, bt phm, cu
kn hnh ch nht, v tiu th, di tt tha,
trn, hai cnh chun trn, to bn, gi l m
bi s lng trang sc phng ma rng
phm thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
nm trn i th.
Sa. M Phc u c du nhp vo Vit
bay trn m. M c chn hnh phng ma
Thanh Ct: 1. loi vi Ct thng c mu
Thng: mt dng vy quy, quy ra
Nam t nm 1059, p dng lm m Thng
rng bay c gi l Cu Phng Quan, c
xanh en, ngoi ra cn c nhum thnh
ngoi chic qun hai ng, loi trang phc
phc ca b quan, n thi Trn b ph
by hnh gi l Tht Phng Quan
cc mu ha minh, vi minh v mu qu. 2.
ny ph bin trong dn gian Vit Nam vo
b, ti du nhp vo triu L s. n thi
Qun: t ch chung cc loi vy, bao
loi o T phc ca vua cha, Thng phc
thi L - Trn. n thi Nguyn, thng
Nguyn, nh Nguyn quy nh m Phc
gm c thng. Tuy nhin, t cui thi
ca quan li, ng thi cng l Tin phc
cn c gi l xim, trang phc c quy
u vung l loi m dnh cho quan v,
Nguyn, khi nim qun c dng ch
ca quan dn triu L Trung Hng, s khu
nh s dng trong nhng bui l, thit
m Phc u trn ( Sa) dnh cho quan
loi mc pha di, c hai ng chn.
bit da trn mu sc o. 3. loi m ca mt
triu, p dng i vi vua quan v hong
vn. M Phc u ca Vit Nam hu ht
Xem: Kh, Qun chn.
u c gn cc trang sc bng kim loi.

Ph Dung: mt loi m ca vua nh
Trn theo ghi nhn ca L Tc, nhiu kh
s hng binh lnh cp thp, ca thng dn
tc, nhng ngi c danh v v phm trt.
Qun chn: ch loi qun c hai ng
triu L Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t
Xem: Xim.
chn phn bit vi loi qun khng y, l
m inh T, cng l loi m cc quan i
chic vy c cu ca ph n Vit xa kia.
khi nc c quc tang.
Thng phc: trang phc mc vo

nhng bui Thng triu, cc ngy mng
nng l m Thng triu, thng c bit
Quyn Vn: tn gi khc ca m Thng
Thao: 1. loi dy tt dng treo vo
n l m ca o gio, c hnh dng bng
Thin, loi m c chp un cong ng v
nn (nn quai thao). 2. loi dy tt dng
Thy anh: tn gi khc ca dy honh
sen, chp vo bi tc.
pha sau, trng nh ng my cun, thn
tht lng, c s dng rng ri vo thi L
trn m Min dnh cho hong triu
Ph hu: hai cnh di ra t hai bn sn
m c cc vin lng c nh cc ht
Trung Hng.
Nguyn, c lm bng t vng, tht cm,
o bo theo quy ch ca nh Minh, c p
ngc chu. y l loi m Triu phc ca
Thn: tn gi khc ca i i, mt
c tua hnh ht bt r xung. Xem: Honh.
dng vo triu nh L Trung Hng v triu
vua Tng. Qua ghi chp ca L Tc, cc vua
dng ai tht lng, c hai di to bn bung
Thy ba: hoa vn sng nc trn o bo
Nguyn.
nh Trn cng s dng m Quyn Vn, c
xung di chn.
5, 10, 20, 25.
triu L - Nguyn.
Phng tm khc lnh: dng phc sc
l khi p dng vo Vit Nam, loi m ny
Tht Long ng Cn: loi m Triu
Tin phc: trang phc vua quan mc
lm bng la trng, hnh trn eo vo
cng c s dng trong cc bui i triu.
phc ca hong thi t triu Nguyn, c
vo ngy thng, nhng lc khng phi
c, chnh gia c mt on la di xung
Song khai: loi o x vt trc, vt sau,
kiu dng tng t m Cu Long ng
thit triu.
hnh vung, thng c phi vi L phc
trang phc thng dng ca binh lnh triu
Cn ca hong , song s lng trang sc
ca vua v cc quan i thn, t nht cn
Nguyn.
trn m c s gia gim. Xem: ng Cn.
c s dng n thi Trn. Nh Nguyn
Tam Sn: loi m c nhng mi hnh
khng s dng loi phc sc ny.
my un cong chp m, c ngc chu
Phng Thng: m Thng phc ca
nh dc cc vin lng tng t m
tn tht thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Quyn Vn Thng Thin, c trang sc hnh
386
Thin H i: di la trang sc vt ngang
Tiu kim t phc: dng o bo Triu

phc mu ta nm vng ca tc vng
thi Trn.
min bn trn m Min ca vng.

Th phc: trang phc b quan s dng
khi vo chu cha Trnh.
Ton Hoa: loi m p dng cho ngch

Tng quan ca nh Trn, c hai kim hon
nh hai bn m, vi nhung mu ta pha
387
bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang
T in: loi o c trn, t phn c tr
vi trang phc Cn Min ca hong ,
Xun Thu: 1. loi m L phc ca hong
sau m. T nm 1396 n ht triu H, m
xung x t, c may bng bn kh vi,
mu en huyn hoc xanh sm, thu hoa
triu Nguyn s dng khi t l ti tng
Ton Hoa c p dng lm m Thng
thng c mu en, c s dng ph bin
vn chim tr.
miu; 2. loi m Thng phc ca cc quan
phc ca cc quan vn v tng tht phm.
trong cung nh v dn gian Vit Nam thi
Trng vt. Xem: Giao lnh.
L - Trn.
Vin lnh. Xem: on lnh.
v t, ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
Vin Du: m Thng phc ca cc v
Xung Thin: dng m c kiu dng nh
Triu phc: loi trang phc vua quan
T linh bo: cn gi l Mng bo, o
vng hu thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
m Phc u, ring hai cnh chun hng
mc vo cc bui l nh, song vo thi
bo Triu phc ca cc quan nht, nh, tam
V i Long: loi m qun phc ca cc
ln tri. y l loi m Thng phc ca
Nguyn, c ng nht vi Cng phc,
phm triu Nguyn, trn o c thu bn
v vua u triu Nguyn, c kt hp vi
cc vua thi L s, v l m Triu phc ca
ch loi trang phc mc vo bui i triu
loi linh th long, ly, quy, phng.
Long bo hp tay.
vua L, cha Trnh, cng nh vua cha nh
ngy rm v mng mt.
T Phng Bnh nh: m ca nho
Vng cn: dng li bc quanh u
Triu Thin: 1. m Thng triu ca cc
sinh, t ti thi Minh Trung Quc v ca
c nh tc c p dng vo triu nh
vng, hu tc di thi Trn; 2. tn gi
cc tn sinh qu tc ca nh Nguyn Vit
ng Trong t nm 1744 v tip tc s
khc ca m Xung Thin thi L, loi m c
Nam. Loi m ny lm bng the, bn bn
dng trong cung nh triu Nguyn.
kiu dng tng t m Phc u, hai cnh
vung vc, trn rng di hp.
chun hi gp, hng ln tri.
T Phng Bnh nh: loi m qun
Trc lnh: 1. tn gi khc ca o giao
trang p dng cho Thp o qun thi vua
lnh; 2. ch loi o c thng ni chung, bao
inh Tin Hong, c duy tr n thi
gm c o giao lnh, t thn, Nht Bnh.
L Trung Hng. Loi m ny lm bng da,
Xem: Giao lnh.
nh phng, bn bn vung vc c khu
Trung n: o lt trong mu trng, kiu
thi mi khc.
Yn V: m Tin phc ca cc quan v
triu L Trung Hng, thn hnh lc lng,
Xim: vn ch t tt, vung vi hnh ch
sau m c mt l ph tng t hnh ui n
nht che trc h th, vo thi Nguyn c
nn cn c gi l m n Dip (l n),
dng ch thng. Xem: Thng, T tt.
hoc m ui n.
TH MC SCH TRCH DN
rp li, trn hp di rng.
giao lnh, c o thng c thu cc hoa
Nguyn. Quy ch trang sc trn m mi
T tu gin bch: di vi nhung mu ta
vn Ph.
pha bic c gn sau m Thng phc
Trung Tnh: loi m Tin phc ca cc
ca cc quan nh Trn. m ca Tng
chc quan i khi nhn h, khng phi vo
quan, di vi ny c phn lm su tua,
A. T liu Vit Nam:
). Trn Xun Ngc Lan phin m v
gn ai ngang sau m.
An Nam phong tc sch ().
ch gii. Nxb KHXH. 1985.
triu theo quy ch ca nh Minh, Trung
Vn Cng: m Thng phc p dng
ny c th hin trn pho tng hong t
cho quan vn nht, nh, tam phm triu
Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu. Tp
L nh T cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh.
Nguyn, trang sc ton bng vng, c hai
1. Thi Cng Nguyn ch bin. Trung tm
di anh sc hoa vng khm ngc chu.
bo tn di tch c Hu. 1997
Trng lnh. Xem: Giao lnh.

T thn: loi o x t hai bn sn, c
Vn T Ti: m Thng phc p dng
hai vt kiu i khm, c o c vin chy
cho cc quan vn v tht, bt, cu phm
thng xung di, di qu gi. Loi o t
triu Nguyn, kiu dng tng t m ng
thn thi Nguyn thng thy l loi o
Pha, ring l ph pha sau m phng l
hp tay, tuy nhin t thi L tr v trc,
khc bit. Xem: ng Pha.
ng tay o rng hp u c ty nghi s
V ch: L phc tn qu nht trong su
dng.
loi trang phc ca hu phi, tng ng
388
Chu nguyn tp vnh tho ().
Mai Vin on Trin. Nxb H Ni. 2008.
Quc. Ti Vit Nam, hin ch thy loi m
B kho (). Phm nh H. Vin

nghin cu Hn Nm. KH: A.956.
L Vn Phc. Vin nghin cu Hn Nm.

KH: VHv.1146
C lut Vit Nam: Quc triu hnh lut
v Hong Vit lut l. Vin S hc. Nxb
Gio Dc Vit Nam. 2009
Bn rp ha tit m thut c Vit Nam.

Vin M thut. Nxb M Thut. 2000
C vt Thng Long H Ni. S Vn ha Th thao v Du lch H Ni. 2010.
Cc th vn ch Hn Vit Nam. Vin

Nghin cu Hn Nm. Nxb KHXH. 2010
Cng d tip k (). Vin nghin

cu Hn Nm. KH: A.44
Ch Nam ngc m gii ngha (
Cng h k vn (). Trng
389
Quc Dng. Vin nghin cu Hn Nm.

KH: A.1499
D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn
triu thc lc ().
Th vin Quc gia Vit Nam. KH: R.1676.
Du hin tng bt (). Bi Vn D.
Khm nh i Nam hi in s l (
). ng Chu Nguyn Hu Tin, Tng
). Vin nghin cu Hn Nm.
Vn Nguyn n Phc dch. Trung Bc Tn
KH: VHv.1681/13
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Minh Mng chnh yu (). Nxb
mc (). Th vin Quc gia
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Kim ngc bo t. Bo tng Lch s Vit
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Hien nay, tren th trng a xuat hien hang loat cuon sach lam gia sach cua
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than khi chon mua sach. Moi hanh vi in va buon ban sach lau eu vi pham
phap luat va lam ton hai en quyen li cua tac gia va nha xuat ban.
275
Chng V. TRANG PHC THI NGUYN
Vai tr ca nh nc v h
t tng chnh tr lun c nhng
tc ng trc tip, mang tnh
chi phi ti ton b i sng
vn ha, x hi. Vn ng trong
cc hnh thi x hi khc nhau,
thc th vn ha lun c s k
tha v bin d. Triu Nguyn,
triu i phong kin qun ch
cui cng trong lch s Vit
Nam, nh du s thay i to
Cu nh t trc sn Th miu trong Hong

thnh Hu. (nh: TQ)
ln v mt nhn thc ca ngi Vit sau khi tip xc vn ha Php. Song

trc khi vn ha, t tng Php c dp gy nh hng mnh m ln
i sng ca ngi Vit, di s tr v ca cc v vua Gia Long, Minh
Mng, Thiu Tr, T c, Vit Nam vn l quc gia Nho gio kin quyt
gn gi truyn thng n tn cng. Lc ny do vn ha ng Ty xung
t, bn thn nh Thanh li c ngun gc Mn, cho nn nh Nguyn
t nhn l triu i k tha tnh chnh thng ca vn minh Trung Hoa.
Bi vy nh nh s hc Nht Bn, Yamamoto Tatsuro nhn xt: Ngi
Vit Nam vn ht sc t tin cho rng h lu gi c trn vn truyn
thng c ca Trung Quc, ng thi l ngi bo v cho t tng Hoa di
khng km g Trung Quc.(1)
Xut pht t s t tin v t tn v vn hin, vua Minh Mng tng
1. Lch s quan h Vit Nam - Trung Quc. Tr.543.
276
i Nam nht thng ton
ch th ch Hn ca vua Cn
sch.(1) V vy, chng ta kh c
Long th thin, qu kch, th
th ph nhn mt s nh hng
ng lm cng khng n ni
ca cc dng o m cng ha
nh th(1), ng thi cn ni:
tit trang tr c ngun gc Mn
Thanh l man di, o m vo
Thanh trong trang phc ca vua
chu u theo thi tc man di,
ti triu Nguyn. Ch ring o m
khng c bt chc. Nm
L phc mi c chm chc t
1830, sau khi khi phc trang
ngun tham kho chnh l trang
phc Cn Min theo quy ch
phc Tng - Minh.
Tng - Minh, vua Minh Mng
Bn cnh , do quan nim
xung d: Cn Min c
vn ha, tn ngng ca phng
t nh t i Hin Vin, i
Ty hon ton khc bit vi
Tam i tr xung t dng []
truyn thng ca ngi Vit, cc
Ngay nh Bc triu t khi nh
v vua u triu Nguyn u mt
Thanh dng nc n nay
mc bi xch, thm ch coi ngi
cng b lu. Nay ta ch
phng Ty l man di, cn phi
dng, in l ca ngi Thanh mt, chc s bt chc ta m sa li
thn trng phng. Nh thng
cho ng. So vi Bc triu, ta cng v vang vy. Nhng lng trm cng
6 nm 1804, vua Gia Long ni:
cha dm cho l iu hay nht, v th tri ct thc tm ch khng
Tin vng kinh dinh vic nc,
phi vn v.
khng H ln vi di, thc
Pha Bc gip ba tnh Qung ng, Qung Ty,

Vn Nam ca Trung chu; pha Ty khng ch cc
tc man di, tip vi cc nc Nam Chng, Min
in; pha ng trng ra b ln, m bc cc o;
pha Nam cng chm ti bin, vng qua pha Ty
Nam st vch Xim La, cc thuc quc cn li v
tc man di khc nhau ni ph u c, tht l mt
i quc sng sng gia tri t (L Vn Phc.
Bin di lun).
(2)
277
Tuy nhin, t trong nhn quan Nho gio ng thi, mc d ht
l ci phng t lc vic cn
sc t tin v tnh chnh thng, song vua quan triu Nguyn vn phi
nh. Ngi Hng mao gian gio
cng nhn vn ha nh Thanh t c nhiu thnh tu v c nhiu
tr tr, khng phi ni ging ta,
iu ng hc hi. Nu nh quan ch thi Gia Long cn gn gi mt
lng t d bit, ch c cho
phn quan ch nh L Trung Hng th n thi Minh Mng li c
li, nn ban thng hu hnh ri
phng theo quan ch ca nh Thanh. Ngay b Hong Vit lut l phn
xua i(2) Vua Minh Mng cng
ln c tham kho t sch lut ca nh Thanh, nh chnh li vua Gia
c nhn nh tng t: Ngi
Long ni: Cc i Hn, ng, Tng, Minh ca Bc triu, sch lut lnh
Ty dng bn tnh gio tr kiu
i no cng c sa i v hon b nht l i Thanh. Trm bn sai cc
ngo, phi chng nay c n
quan trong triu chun theo php in lut l ca cc triu, tham kho
cu tut nn bng chc ci ha c ci tc di r ca h?(3)
Long bo ca nh Nguyn, nh Thanh, nh

Minh v Triu Tin.
thm lut lnh i Hng c v ca nh Thanh [] ri bin tp li thnh
Trc bi cnh nh vy, khi t nh ch o m phm phc,
1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Chnh bin. nh k. Q.159. (Tp 4). Cn Long nh Thanh lm th rt nhiu, ta
xem ra, u l nhng bi i thng vo tnh cnh, chng cn nhng li ph phim gt gia, song c nhiu ch
cn th [] Cc bi ta lm ch t tnh, t cnh m dng ch chng n ni qu kch nh th.
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp.3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. C lut Vit Nam. Quc triu hnh lut v Hong Vit lut l. Tr.173-174.
2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k - Q.24. Nguyn vn:
3. Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp VI. Ph lc Hn vn. Tr.CCCXIV.31b. Nguyn vn:

; Tr.CCCXXV.37a. Nguyn vn:
278
ngoi vic k tha mt phn quy ch thi L Trung Hng v thi cha
a. Cn Min
Nguyn Phc Khot, triu nh nh Nguyn vn tip tc tham kho ch
Thi cc cha Nguyn ct c ng
trang phc ca cc triu i Trung Hoa l nh Tng, nh Minh v
Trong, vo dp t l, cha i m Xung
nh Thanh, trong , trang phc Tng - Minh l ngun tham kho chnh
Thin lm bng sa, mc o bo (giao lnh)
thng. T thi vua ng Khnh, Khi nh v sau, trang phc trong
mu huyn, i giy mt, khng x tt.(1)
triu khng cn c tun th nghim ngt nh trc; qun phc
Sau khi vua Gia Long thng nht lnh
ca nh vua dn dn cng chu nh hng kiu cch qun phc phng
th, thng 2 nm 1807, vua mi bt u
Ty, vic i giy Ty trong triu cng ngy mt thnh hnh. c bit di
nh i l Nam Giao, vo ngy t, vua
triu vua Bo i, ln u tin vua cho php b quan khng cn mc cc
i m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai
b Triu phc, Thng phc khi vo chu, ch cn mc b l phc gin
ngc, xim vng, ln n lm l.(2) Minh
tin l o the, khn xp.
Mng chnh yu cng cho bit t nm
t trong nhn quan phong kin ng thi, triu nh nh Nguyn
1830 tr v trc, khi t Giao, vua ch i
bt lun th no cng s hu mt nn vn hin o mo c b dy
m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai ngc
truyn thng v nhng cch tn c sc, t tin snh ngang vi cc quc
nh khi lm l t Hng Tng miu(3).
gia Nho gio nh Trung Quc, Triu Tin, khin Khm s nh Thanh l
M Cu Long c nhc n y
Lao Sng Quang phi cng nhn: Gn gi Trung H, tn sng Nho gio,
l m Cu Long Thng Thin, tn gi
yu chung thi th, cng c coi l t thanh danh vn vt, t phi ni
khc ca m Xung Thin triu Nguyn.
n hai nc Triu Tin v Vit Nam.
Nh vy L phc t Giao thi vua Gia
(1)
279
Long vn tun theo quy ch thi L

I. TRANG PHC HONG
Trung Hng. Nm 1830 l thi im triu
1. L phc
nh vua Minh Mng khi phc quy ch
Tng t nh cc v hong i Vit trc y, cc vua nh
Cn Min. Theo quy ch L phc t
Nguyn cng c t tng vng, lm b ch ton ci phng Nam.
tri dnh cho hong c quy nh
c bit sau khi s hu mt quc th rng ln cha tng c trong lch
l m Min 12 lu v o Cn 12 chng, c th c Hi in cho bit:
Vua Khi nh mc Cn Min. n t

Nam Giao ti Hu.
s m nh li triu thn L Vn Phc, Vit Nam lc ny l mt i quc
M Min t Giao trn vung di trn, nh hai ch Vn Th
sng sng gia vm tri t, vua Minh Mng cho khi phc quy ch
bng vng hoc hai ch Thin a bng vng, 12 hnh rng my, 6 hnh
o Cn m Min, vn b ph b t thi L Trung Hng, nh du v
ngn la, 2 thy vn, 4 nhiu tng, 1 hoa sen, 1 a my, 1 lin ng
th ca thin t phng Nam c quyn c lp t tri.
chy vin quanh thnh m, 256 ht vng, 2 cc, 2 khuyn. Mt trc v
Theo Hi in, cc vua nh Nguyn c hai loi L phc, gm L
sau c 24 di lu, hai bn phi tri mi bn 1 di lu, u xu chui
phc Cn Min s dng trong l t Giao v L phc Xun Thu s dng
bng san h, trn chu, pha l v cc ht vng, tng cng 300 ht. Xung
trong cc dp t l ti Tng Miu.
quanh c mng kim tuyn nh kt vi 400 ht vng ngc. Trm khm

trn chu ni vi dy thy anh lm bng t vng. Phm l mt rng
1. (Vit) Tp m thi vn - Nam quc phong nh thng bin t. Nguyn vn: ,,

,
1. (Trung) Hi ngoi k s - Q.2. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.692.
3. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr. CCLXIV-3b. Nguyn vn:
280
u khm cc ht trn chu nh. Vng
ng, hi vn, sng nc vn vn. Vin
cn sc 4 khuyn vng.
gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
(1)
Theo ghi nhn ca Hi in, i
bo lam, lt sa Nam mt bng mu vng
Nam thc lc v hnh v trong BAVH, m
chnh sc. K y (o lt c trn gn vi thng) may
Min dnh cho Hong triu Nguyn l
bng la trng.
loi m Min 12 lu (pha trc 12 lu,
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt la mu ,
tc ca m Min dnh cho thin t theo
thu chng Sn, Long, hnh my v cc
Chu l. Tuy nhin, nh chnh li vua Minh
hnh ha lu. 4 ng bin may lin on
[] trm nay noi theo php xa m thm

bt , dy sung nh gn hai bn thi
(2)
dng m c i thnh hai di lu, dy
M Min ca hong nh Nguyn

trong BAVH (1915) v m Min phc
ch (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam; m
phc ch thiu dy thy anh).
T tt mt chic, lm bng t Bt ti
pha sau 12 lu), khp vi cc nguyn
Mng ni Cn Min c t thi Hin Vin
281
gm lan can thun bc hoa mai mu bo

lam xen vi on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch
( hoa). Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun
vng, 4 mc vng, 4 cc vng.
hong mu son c i thnh dy
i th mt chic, lm bng on
thy anh lm bng t vng, cng li trang
Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, lt la mu
tr trn nh min bn v quanh thn m
vng, thu hnh rng my, sng nc v
u c th coi l nhng nt c sc ch
cc hnh c . Bn trn may lin mt
xut hin m Min ca triu Nguyn.
ming (ngc trng) hnh bn nguyt vi
1. o lt thu hoa vn ch ca vua

Triu Tin (cn gi o Trung n); 2.
Thng v K y ca vua quan triu
Nguyn (BAVH).
Kt hp vi loi m Min 12 lu l b Cn phc 12 chng, phi
on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch, thu cc hnh rng my xen vi hnh lan
vi cc phc sc nh ngc khu, ngc bi, i th, T tt, Cch i, i
can kim tuyn. ng bin may lin on gm lan can thun bc hoa
i v.v. C th:
mai mu bo lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu bo lam
o Cn may bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu thin thanh, thu

6 chng: Nht, Nguyt, Tinh thn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng. Di thy lu
(ch di vi buc o ca o giao lnh, tnh cht nh cc) thu
kt vi dy nhung xu ngc cc mu. 1 di thy anh, 2 di thy lu xen

dng tru bng mu vng, trng, .
hnh rng my, hoc may
Pha di kt li, thy anh v mc bc
bng sa mt bng thun ch mu tuyt bch. ng tay o thu hnh rng
4 chic, cc vng 7 ht.
my. C o may bng on Bt ti bng mu quan lc. o lt trong may
Ngc bi hai di. Mi di c 1 ngc
bng la mu trng thu hoa vn ch (tc chng Pht), di thy lu
trng hnh con di, 1 ngc trng hnh
thu hnh rng my, sng nc.
vung, 1 ngc trng hnh trn, 2 ngc
Thng may bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh sc,
trng hnh bn nguyt, 1 ngc trng
thu cc chng: To, Ha, Phn m, Ph, Pht, Tng di (Thng 6 chng
hnh khnh, xu chui vi cc ht vn
v cc hnh c , bt bo, lin
mu, san h, h phch mu en, mi
kt hp vi o Cn 6 chng, tng cng 12 chng)
loi hn 200 ht, 1 mc cu vng.

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.5,6. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a.
Cch i mt chic, bc t Bt
Ngc bi kt hp vi Cn phc ca vua
triu Nguyn (BAVH); 2. Tp bi
(Tam ti hi).
ti bng mu vng chnh sc, kt vi 1

ming ngc trng hnh vung, 6 ming
ngc trng hnh chic mc, bn ngoi
282
u bc vng, 6 chn cc, 2 hnh l
Min ca Hong triu Nguyn tuy phn ln tham kho t quy ch
vng ta, 2 khuy kp bc.
Tng - Minh, song xut hin rt nhiu bin d, c bit l vic s dng
i i lm bng on Bt ti
i i vt ngang vai v s kt hp gia thng v K y c trn. Ring i
bng mu bo lam, bn trong lt
i, theo quy ch Tng Minh, l di ai bng la trng dng tht lng,
tru bng mu hoa xch, hai u
kt hp vi ai da - cch i. Song nh BAVH m t, vo thi Nguyn,
xu chui vi cc hng chu ngc,

c thy 392 ht, 10 di thy anh kim
i i l di khn mnh vt qua vai, vt qua ngc, mi u u c

dim bn rng bng la nm ngc nhiu mu v r xung tht thp.(1)
tuyn.
Bt tt ging nh Triu phc
(thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam,
gia l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha
Hia p dng cho Cn phc, Triu phc v
Thng phc ca vua triu Nguyn. (Bu vt
triu Nguyn).
di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun

vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can
kim tuyn, pha trn gn vi h tt).
Hia thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm,

thu rng my, lin ng, ngn la v hi
vn kim tuyn, xen k gn kt vi gng ty;
pha di lm bng t lng v mu vng, thu
nh cc loi ht trn chu, san h nh, hnh
rng, mi loi 2 th v cc hnh c , xen k
gn vi gng ty, nh 3 chic kim bn, mi
chic khm 1 ht ha t, 2 ht kim cang lt
on Bt ti mu .(1)
i chiu t liu vn t v t liu hnh
nh tng quan, c th thy trang phc Cn
Mt trong nhng chic tt ca

vua Khi nh (nh: Trnh
Bch).
1. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.6-8. Nguyn vn:
1. Vua Khi nh mc trang phc Cn Min, song thay v tht T tt pha trc, ng li
tht i Th vn l phc sc che pha sau. Cch phi hp nh vy khng hp quy ch. Phi
chng y l mt trong nhng kiu n vn khng phi li ca vua Khi nh nh li cng
kch ca Phan Chu Trinh. (Tht iu trn. Tp ch Nghin cu lch s, s 66); 2. Trang phc
Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (Phc dng).
1. BAVH. 1915. Tr. 75-76 .
283
Trang phc Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (BAVH) 1.2.3.4. M Min 12 lu. (1. Min bn
nhn t trn xung; 2 - 3. M Min nhn trc din v trc din; 4. Dy thy anh mu vng gn trm
ngc); 5. Khu (cn gi l Trn khu, ht). 6. Hia. 7. i i. 8. Cch i. 9. Bi. 10. Tp bi. 11.
Tiu th. 12. Cn phc 12 chng (mt trc v mt sau): A. o xanh en 6 chng (a. Nguyt; b.
Nht; c. Tinh thn; d. Sn; e. Long; f. Hoa trng). B. Thng 6 chng. C. T tt (thu 2 chng
Sn v Long, 1 hnh rng bay ln v 1 hnh rng bay xung). D. i th.
Mt s phc sc trong b Cn phc ca hong nh Minh (Tam ti hi). 1. o Cn mu huyn;

2. o lt Trung n; 3. Thng mu nht; 4. T tt; 5. Cch i; 6. i i; 7. Th; 8. Tp bi.
Quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh c sa i nhiu ln. Quy ch Cn Min ca Hong triu
Nguyn nhiu kh nng c tham kho trc tip t quy ch trong Tam ti hi.
Hin vt o Cn ca vua Khi nh triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch), Hiu Minh thin hong
Nht Bn (M thut Nht Bn) v Thun Tng hong thi i Hn quc (Phc sc).
BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 12 LU 12

286
CHNG CA HONG NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH TNG
b. Xun Thu
T Tng miu cng l mt trong nhng
V NH MINH TRUNG QUC
l tit quan trng trong vn ha cung nh.
(theo i Nam hi in s l, Tng s v Minh hi in)
Vo dp t l ny, vua nh Trn s dng L
287
phc Quyn Vn, vua nh L s dng L

Quy ch ca nh
Nguyn
Quy ch ca nh
Tng
Quy ch ca nh Minh
-M Min 12 lu, sung

nh c thay bng
2 di lu, dy hong
c thay bng dy
thy anh lm bng t
vng
-M Min 12 lu, thn

m Thng Thin gia
min bn, dy hong
mu son
-M Min 12 lu, thn m

dng ng gia min bn, dy
hong mu son
-o Cn mu xanh,
thu 6 chng Nht,
Nguyt, Tinh, Sn,
Long, Hoa trng
-o Cn mu xanh,
thu 7 chng Nht,
Nguyt, Tinh, Sn,
Long, Tr (Hoa trng),
H du (Tng di)
-o Cn mu huyn, thu 6
chng Nht, Nguyt, Tinh,
Sn, Long, Hoa trng
-Thng mu vng,
thu 6 chng To,
Ha, Phn m, Tng
di, Ph, Pht v cc
hnh c , bt bo...
-Thng mu , thu
5 chng To, Ha,
Phn m, Ph, Pht
-Thng mu vng, thu 6

chng To, Ha, Tng di,
Phn m, Ph, Pht
-o Trung n may
bng la trng, thu
12 chng Pht
-o Trung n may
bng l trng
-o Trung n may bng sa

trng, c o thu 13 chng
Pht
-T tt mu vng vin
lam, thu Sn, Long,
1 rng bay ln, 1 rng
bay xung, hnh my
v cc hnh ha lu
-T tt mu , thu
1 con rng bay ln, 1
con rng bay xung,
gia l my, sc ngc
qu
-T tt mu , thu 4 chng
To, Phn m, Ph, Pht
-i th thu hnh
rng my sng nc,
xu cc loi ngc
-i th 6 mu nh
3 tiu th kt 3 ngc
hon
i th 6 mu nh 3 tiu th
kt 3 ngc hon
-Ngc bi 2 di, gm
cc loi ngc hnh, c,
xung nha, hong
-Ngc bi 2 di, lm
bng ngc trng tr
rng
-Ngc bi 2 di, gm cc loi

ngc hnh, c, v, xung nha,
hong
-Cch i nh ngc
trng, bc vng
-Cch i tr rng
phng bng vng
-Cch i nh ngc
-Tt pha trn gn h

tt, thn mu lam,
pha di mu trng,
dt vng, hia mu
thm thu rng my
-Tt , giy Tch
-Tt , giy Tch
phc Bnh nh, cc vua nh Nguyn mun

nht vo thi vua Gia Long c L phc
Xun Thu. i Nam thc lc cho bit: Bui
hm trc ngy ht tang mt nm, vua
vua Gia Long) b
(ch
o tang, ni gim em ct i.
n ngy , bn th by t nh nghi thc

t in ln. Vua mc trng, i m Xun
Thu bng sa trng, o giao lnh bng sa
trng, thng bng la trng, giy v bt tt
trng, n trc bn th lm l [] T in
ln, t cu ngu, t tt khc mc cng theo
nh th [] Cn t Luyn, t Tng v t
m th sau ngy tt khc mi c hnh. T
Luyn vua mc L phc, i m Xun Thu
bng sa thm, o giao lnh bng sa thm,
thng bng la mu bic lt la trng, giy
v bt tt en. T Tng v t m vua mc
mu, m Xun Thu bng nhiu thm,
o giao lnh bng sa on mu bo lam,
thng bng sa bic lt trng, bt tt lam,
giy en.(1). Vo thi Gia Long, quy ch L
phc Xun Thu c s phn bit ty theo quy
m ca bui t. t nht c ba dng L phc
M Xun Thu ca quan v T

phm (BAVH); Vua Gia Long
i m Xun Thu di nt v ca
ngi Php. (nh phc ch).
Xun Thu p dng cho thin t trong cc dp t i in, t Cu Ngu, t

tt khc, t Luyn, t Tng, t m. Vo thi vua Minh Mng, quy ch
L phc Xun Thu c gin ha, thng nht l m Xun Thu mu en
kt hp vi o giao lnh mu thin thanh (mu huyn).
Nm 1821, vua Minh Mng ni vi Thng th B L Phm ng
Hng: Trong ngy k lit thnh, hong kho ta i m Xun Thu, mc
288
o giao lnh, t c in tc. Trm nn theo l ca hong kho th lit
v Thng triu.(1) Nh vy, vo thi Nguyn,
thnh th hong kho.(1) ng thi quy nh:
Triu phc hay cn gi l trang phc i triu
M L phc l m Xun Thu, lm bng sa tru mu en, nh 1
ch trang phc mc vo ngy rm, mng mt
bng hoa bc, khm mt ht pha l lp lnh. Vng cn mt chic, sc bn
v mt s dp l tt nht nh; Thng phc l
khuyn bc. o giao lnh lm bng sa mt thun ch, mu thin thanh,
trang phc mc vo cc ngy chu thng mng
o lt lm bng sa mt thun ch mu tuyt bch, u thu hoa vn rng
5, 10, 20, 25.
my, sng nc. Hoc o lm bng on Bt ti bng thun ch lai l,

mu thin thanh, thu rng my, bn trong lt lnh 12 hoa mu n cho
a. M Cu Long Thng Thin

Hi in, Hi in tc bin, i Nam in l
mu ngc lam. C o v hai di thy lu u dng mu sc gc (ca o).
tot yu, i Nam thc lc u ghi nhn, vo cc
Thng lm bng sa mt thu hoa nh, mu ngc lam, vin lm bng
bui i triu, hong mc Hong bo, i m
on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh. K y lm bng la sng.
Cu Long Thng Thin. Loi m Triu phc ny
Bt tt c thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia l t Bt

ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, bn trong lt la
mu . Hia c thn hia lm bng t Bt ti mu thm, bn trong lt lnh
bng mu bo lam.(2)
289
mt s sch nh Minh Mng chnh yu, i

Nam thc lc cn c gi tt l m Cu Long,
trong dn gian quen gi l m Xung Thin. Nam
phng danh vt b kho thi Nguyn gii thch:
M Cu Long Thng Thin

th hin trn tng kim thn
ca vua Khi nh (Lng
Khi nh. nh: TQ).
M Xung Thin, m i triu ca thin t ngy nay, nh m Phc u,

hai cnh chun cha ln tri.(2) Ring t Thng Thin, Ch Nam ngc
2. Triu phc
m gii thch Thng Thin quan hiu (gi l) Triu Thin.(3) T in Vit
T thng 5 nm 1806 thi vua Gia Long,
- B - La ca Alexandre de Rhodes nh ngha: M Triu Thin l vng
cc bui chu i triu, Thng triu c quy

nh: Mi thng ly ngy mng mt v ngy
min (m ca vua). Cc c liu trn chng t vo thi L -Nguyn, loi
rm t i triu in Thi Ha, quan t lc
m tng t m Phc u c hai cnh chun hng ln tri, ngoi tn
phm tr ln mc o m i triu vo ly chu;
gi m Xung Thin, cn c gi l m Triu Thin v Thng Thin.
nhng ngy mng 5, 10, 20, 25 t Thng triu
Ring loi m Thng Thin c nhng bi my cun trn nh m, nh
in Cn Chnh, quan t t phm tr ln mc
Trn gi l m Quyn Vn, nh L Trung Hng gi l m Tam Sn.

i vi quy ch m Cu Long Thng Thin, Hi in cho bit, m
o m Thng triu vo ly chu. Cc thnh v
i triu Cu Long Thng Thin nh 31 hnh rng vng, 30 hnh ngn
dinh trn n ngy mng mt v ngy rm u

bi vng Hnh cung.(3) Minh Mng chnh yu
cng c ghi chp tng t, ng thi cho bit,
phm gp thng nhun u min c i triu
Vua ng Khnh tht

Vng Cn, i m Cu
Long Thng Thin.
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCX -15b.

3. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.666
la; pha trc v sau u c 1 bc sn, 1 honh long, ht bc pha l lp

lnh v ht thng thin mi th 2 chic; 1 lin ng, 1 nhiu tng, 1
a hoa hnh trn, 30 a my u kt bng ch; cc hng ngc dng
khm sc nh ha t, kim cang, trn chu gm 140 ht, mt mi con
rng u khm 1 ht trn chu nh.(4) Trc khi i m, vua cn tht
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCXVIII-19b.
2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Q.31 - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m. Tr.120

4. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.1-2. Nguyn vn:
290
Vng cn sc 4 khuyn vng. Nh vy c
Mt trc v sau u c hai ch Vn
th thy, loi m Triu phc ca Hong
Th, ba hnh rng. Hai ng tay o v
nh Nguyn c ngun gc l m Xung Thin
hai cnh u c mt hnh rng. Cc
ca vua L cha Trnh, song c sc ln
hoa vn san h, ha lu u xu chui
v s trang sc bng vng v qu, ng
bng cc ht ngc chu nh. C o
thi c t tn mi, gi l m Cu Long
may bng on Bt ti bng mu tuyt
Thng Thin. Qua mt s nh chp cc v
bch. Thy lu hai di
vua ng Khnh, Duy Tn, Khi nh, Bo
nh nch o, c chc nng nh cc)
i, c th thy li trang sc trn m Cu
hnh rng my.
M Cu Long Thng Thin ca

cc vua nh Nguyn. (Phc ch.
Bo tng Lch s). Bc sn: trang
sc hnh bn nguyt chy vng trn
trn m. Ht bc pha l lp lnh:
trang sc nh cho 2 bn Bc Sn.
Nhiu Tng: trang sc nh gia
trn m. Honh long: hc cm cnh
chun hnh u rng nm ngang
gy m. Ht Thng Thin: hai cnh
chun vn ra t Honh Long, l ra
hi cong gp.
(ch hai di tht
u thu
Long ca cc v vua ny khng hon ton
Thng lm bng sa mt bng
ng nht. c bit, hai cnh m Xung
mu hoa xch, thu hnh cc hnh
Thin th hin trn pho tng kim thn ca
rng , sng nc, c , bt bo; pha
vua Khi nh c dng cong trn hi hng
di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng,
v pha trc, trng khp vi hnh dng
lan can mu hoa xch, gm on lt
cnh m Xung Thin ca vua Quang Trung
la mu , gm hng nht thu hoa
gi th hin trong bc tranh Cn Long bt

tun vn th khnh in . Dng cnh m
291
sen thun vng mu lc lam. K y lm

bng la sng.
Chn dung vua ng Khnh (1864 - 1889)

mc Triu phc. Ngc o bo thu 2 ch
Vn Th theo li ch Trin. (Bu vt triu
Nguyn).
ny nn c coi l quy ch chung nht ca
ai lm bng on Bt ti bng
dng m Xung Thin triu L Nguyn hay
mu vng chnh sc may xen vi t
ch l vi trng hp c bit? Vi c liu
mu xch v, nh 18 ming sng t hnh mc di, bn ngoi bc vng,
hin c chng ti thin v kh nng th
khm 92 ht trn chu.
nht, song chng ti cho rng, dng cnh
m Xung Thin ny c l ch c s dng
t thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot tr v sau.
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, pha trn gn h tt.
Ngoi ra, o mo ca vua quan nh Nguyn

v c bn bm st quy ch ca Hi in,
nhng trn thc t vn c s gia gim, c bit l o mo ca nh vua.

b. Bo phc
Kt hp vi m Cu Long Thng Thin l b Bo phc bao gm
Hong bo, ai ngc, xim y, h tt, bt tt v hia.
Trong , o bo lm bng sa on mu vng chnh sc, thu cc
hnh rng my, sng nc ln nh v 4 ch Phc Th, o sa dy thu hoa
T hu
(mai, lan, cc, trc)
hoc loi tru mu hoa xch thu hoa T hu;
hai cnh (tc hai cnh ph hu lng o) dng on Bt ti bng mu bo lam.

Vua Thnh Thi, vua Bo i v vua Khi nh mc Triu phc.
H tt lm bng t Bt ti bng mu vng

chnh sc, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, tt
292
Hi in cho bit m Thng triu ca cc
c u dng kim tuyn theo kiu hi vn, vin
v vua nh Nguyn l Cu Long ng Cn, song
gm hng nht thun vng mu bo lam, bn
khng cp quy ch c th. Ring m Triu
trong lt tru bng. Hia c thn hia lm
phc Tht Long ng Cn ca hong thi t
bng t Bt ti mu thm, thu cc hnh rng
c m t trang sc bng vng v ngc chu.
my, sng nc, hoa bng kim tuyn, bn trong
Sau khi kho st mt s nh chn dung cc v
lt t Bt ti mu .
vua triu Nguyn, chng ti pht hin thy
(1)
u tht Vng Cn, chn

buc h tt. (K thut ca
ngi An Nam).
3. Thng phc
293
Qua m t ca Hi in, kt hp vi t liu
ngoi m Cu Long Thng Thin, cc vua nh
nh triu Nguyn, c th thy Long bo ca cc
Nguyn cn i mt loi m c phn gy nh
v vua triu Nguyn k tha kiu dng trang tr
cao, chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi
Long bo thi L Trung Hng. c trng ca
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Chng ti
li bo phc ny l hoa vn Long vn i hi
cho rng, loi m xut hin trong cc nh chn
v hai cnh o ph hu lng o. S bin cch
dung vua T c, ng Khnh, Thnh Thi l
ln nht ca Long bo, Mng bo triu Nguyn
m Cu Long ng Cn, loi m xut hin trong nh chn dung Thi
nm hoa vn trang tr rng, my, sng nc,
t Bo i v Thi t Bo Long l m Tht Long ng Cn. Ngoi ra,
c , bt bo, san h, ha lu v lan can,
theo t chu bn s 163 165 Khi nh quyn s 1, c th thy m Cu
mang li cm gic cu k v ngp mt.
Long ng Cn cn c gi tt l ng Cn. T chu ph ny cho
M Cu Long ng Cn th
hin trn tranh chn dung vua
T c v vua Thnh Thi.
Ngoi ra, t thi L - Trnh tr v trc,
bit: Chiu theo l ca quc
o giao lnh l dng o ph bin, s dng trong
triu hng nm gp cc tt
cung nh v dn gian, cho nn mt b Bo
oan Dng, ng ch th t
phc thng thng bao gm o Trung n c
nghi l Thng triu ti in
giao lnh mc lt bn trong, o on lnh c
Cn Chnh, xin hong thng
trn mc ra bn ngoi. Vo thi Nguyn, triu
i ng Cn, mc Long bo,
nh ph b kiu o giao lnh s dng trong
cm ngc khu.(1)
ngy thng, thay vo l loi o di nm
Kt hp vi ng Cn l
thn c ng ci khuy. C o bo ca vua quan
Long bo, song cn lu rng
nh Nguyn lc ny c nh thm mt lp lt bng la trng di ra

pha ngoi, i m phng c o giao lnh trc y.
Vua Thnh Thi, ng Khnh mc Thng phc.
Long bo Thng triu c b

cc hoa vn trang tr khc vi
Long bo i triu. Quy ch c th c Hi in m t: o bo lm

bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu vng chnh sc, bn trong lt cng

mu, thu rng ln v cc hnh c , bt bo, sng nc; mt rng
u khm ht h phch mu huyn, cn li u xu chui cc ht chu
1. Nguyn vn:
294
ngc nh. Hai mt o v hai ng tay o u
nh khng c s liu cp, ngoi tr thng tin ghi li trong tm bia i
xu chui cc ht chu ngc lm thnh hnh
Vit Lam sn D lng bi cho bit vua L Hin Tng mc o Cn, i m
m t (ch cc ch c ngha p nh Phc, Th v.v). C o
Min c dy hong mu son. Cn Min cng l L phc Tch in
lt on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc thu
ca cc vua triu Hn ng, khc vi quy ch L phc Tch in thi
hnh rng my. Hai di thy lu u thu
Tng Minh l m Thng Thin kt hp vi o bo .
hnh rng my. Thng dng sa mt bng
4. Qun phc
thun ch mu hoa xch, thu hnh rng ,
Vo thi vua Minh
sng nc, c , bt bo, cnh hoa v.v. pha
Mng, qun phc hay trang
di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng, lan can
phc nh vua s dng khi
mu hoa xch, gm on lt la mu , gm
duyt binh c quy nh
hng nht thu hoa sen thun vng mu bo
l m v i Long kt hp
lam. K y lm bng la sng. Bt tt c thn
vi Hong bo hp tay c
lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia

l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l
vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun vng, gm
hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, lt
Vn kin lin c mu xanh

Vua Khi nh i m Triu
phc, song li mc o bo
Thng phc.
sa, tru bng mu . Hia ging hia i triu(1).
thm. Song vi m t ca
Hi in, chng ta cng ch
bit M v i Long c
lm bng t lng v mu
Hi in cn cho bit, khi
en, lt on Bt ti bng
Qun phc ca vua triu Nguyn hp tay, vn kin lin

c. (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: Philippe Trng).
cy rung Tch in, vua i
mu vng chnh sc, lan can kim tuyn ca Ty dng, nh 4 hnh rng
m Cu Long ng Cn, Long
vng, 1 hnh ngn la, 2 hnh rng my, 1 hnh my, mt rng khm trn
bo hp tay mu vng, ai hia
chu, cn li u sc chu ngc. Thy anh dng lan can kim tuyn ca
ging nh trang phc duyt binh
Ty dng.(1) Cn nh hnh dng c th ca loi m ny ra sao, hin
(tc qun phc).(2)
Chng ti cho
chng ti cha c t liu tranh nh c th xc thc. Ring bo phc
rng, trang phc th hin trong
kt hp vi m v i Long, hin vn cn hin vt i chiu, v c bn
bc nh chn dung vua Thnh
khp vi m t ca Hi in:
Thi (m Cu Long ng Cn
o bo hp tay lm bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh
kt hp vi o bo hp tay, x
sc, thu rng my, sng nc, c , bt bo, lt tru mu hoa xch thu
bn vt, ai loan) chnh l trang
mu n, bm bm. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
phc cc vua nh Nguyn s dng trong ngy l Tch in. Trang phc
bo lam, u xu chui cc ht trn chu, san h nh. Vn kin lin c
s dng khi cy rung Tch in ca vua cha i Vit trc y hu
o lm bng on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, thu rng my, sng
Vua Thnh Thi mc l phc Tch in v vua

Duy Tn mc Thng phc.
nc, c , bt bo. o ngn M qui hai chic, lm bng t Bt ti mu

2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.10. Nguyn vn:
thm, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, hnh con di, ngn la. Thng
295
296
kp may bng t Bt ti bng mu
Ngoi ra, vo thi vua Khi nh, phn ln cc loi trang phc ca
vng chnh sc, thu i phng
vua u do vua t v kiu, thit k, ngay trang phc Cn Min t tri
v cc hnh lin ng, hi vn.
cng b ph cch bng cch mc i th pha sau ln pha trc
Di gu lm bng t Bt ti bng
thay cho t tt. c bit phi k n vic vua kt hp o bo hp tay, x
mu hoa xch, thu rng my,
4 vt s dng trong dp cy rung Tch in vi b qun phc chu u,
sng nc, lin ng, hi vn,
ng thi phi vi nn hoc khn xp, to ra mt trong nhng loi qun
lt tru mu hoa xch thu hnh
trang v tin khong hu. t trong bi cnh ng thi, khi vua nh
mu n, bm bm. Bn bn
Thanh, Triu Tin, Nht Bn u du nhp v rp khun theo mu qun
may lin t Bt ti bng mu ngc
phc phng Ty th chnh phong cch pha trn, ph v truyn thng
lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa

sen thun vng mu bo lam
gn tru mu thu mu n,
Qun phc ca vua Khi nh v Thi t Bo

Long (1936-2007).
th hin trn qun trang ca vua Khi nh li l nt c sc ca ring

ng v ring triu i ng tr v. Tuy nhin, ngoi b qun phc ph
cch, vua Khi nh vn c b qun trang chun mc theo ng dng
bm bm. Thy anh, long bi vng ba mt u lm bng vng, hnh
thc ca phng Ty. n thi vua Bo i, chng ta khng cn thy s
chic mc rng my, xung quanh si nhiu tuyn khm cc loi ngc ha
ph cch, pha trn ny thm na.
t, trn chu, kim cang, san h hn 300 ht, hn 50 di thy anh kim
tuyn. ai loan mt chic, lan can kim tuyn Ty dng khm 1 ht kim
cang hnh phng nh. Xung quanh khm ht kim cang, bn ngoi bc
Quy ch Triu phc v Thng
vng, khuy kp, chn cc xu chui trn chu, san h, thanh liu hnh
phc ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
hoa 9 a. Hia c thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm may xen vi t Bt ti
nh vo nm 1804 thi vua Gia Long.
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt t Bt ti bng mu hoa xch.
Nm 1831, vua Minh Mng nh ra quy
(1)
ch T phc Cn Min dnh cho hong

t, vng cng v cc quan nht, nh, tam
phm. Nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr, quy
ch Triu phc c sa i, ch yu
quy ch trang sc trn m Phc u.
1. L phc
1.1. L phc t Giao
Ngay t thi Xun Thu ti Trung
Vua Minh Tr Nht Bn (1852-1912), vua Khi nh Vit Nam (1885 - 1925), vua Ph Nghi Trung
Quc (1906-1967), vua Cao Tng Triu Tin (1852-1919) mc Qun phc.
Quc, Cn Min c quy nh l

trang phc i l dnh cho thin t nh
Chu, vua ch hu v mt s v i thn.
Ch Cn Min ca nc ta mun nht
c t nh vo triu inh, c k
tha qua cc triu i Tin L, L, Trn,
H v tuyt tch vo thi thuc Minh.
n thi vua L Thi Tng, quy ch Cn
Ng , nhc kh s dng khi t

Giao p dng theo Chu l. Ng ca
nh Thanh (Bo tng C cung Bc
Kinh), Ng ca nh Nguyn (BAVH)
v Ng ca Hn Quc (Bo tng C
cung quc lp Seoul). (nh: TQ).
297
Min mi c khi phc, ng thi

298
c duy tr qua cc i vua Nhn
a. Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng
Tng, Thnh Tng v Hin Tng. K
Theo quy ch L phc t Giao
t sau nhng chnh bin, ng lon
nm 1830, trang phc Cn Min p
cui thi L s, v vic vua L Trung
dng cho hong t v vng cng triu
Hng mt i thc quyn, quy ch Cn
Nguyn l m Min 9 lu, Cn phc 9
Min dnh cho vng cng dn b
chng. Quy ch m Min 9 lu c
ph b. n thng 12 nm 1755 thi

vua L Hin Tng, triu nh mi ch
ra o Cn m Min lm loi o mo
th Khng T trong Vn Miu(1). Sau
khi nh Nguyn thnh lp, nm 1831
Quy ch m Min 12 lu ca thin t nh
Chu (Choe Kye Sun. Trung Quc lch
i vng Min phc nghin cu) 1.
Lu (cn gi l Ngc To); 2. To (dy
t ng sc); 3. Ngc chu; 4. Tu; 5.
(Ngc) Hnh; 6. m; 7. Thu Khong
hoc (Ngc) Trn; 8. Sung Nh; 9. Honh
(Chu t: dy son); 10. Nu; 11. K (Trm
ngc); 12. V (cng cht liu, cng mu
vi Din); 13. Din (cn gi Min Bn. 1
thc 6 tc x 8 tc. Mt u trn, mt u
vung, vin mu son).
vua Minh Mng li tham kho quy

ch Tng - Minh t ra trang phc
Cn Min dnh cho vua quan triu
Nguyn, nh du s hon b v vn
hin o mo ca quc i Nam.
Mi mt triu i phong kin
qun ch, bt k triu L, Trn, L,
Nguyn ti Vit Nam, triu Tng, Minh
ti Trung Quc hay triu Cao Ly, Triu
299
quy nh: M lm bng loi lng ui

nga tt vng ngoi, pha trn chp
vn g (mc bn) lm ct, pha trc trn,
pha sau vung, bn ngoi bc bng
on t lt lnh mu . Trc sau u
c 9 dy lu, mi lu lm bng dy to
ng sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc. Trm ng
dn dy hong mu huyn, r xung
dy khong mu xanh, sung nh cht
ngc trn mu trng, tua dy hong
mu son. Xung quanh min bn vin
vng, tr hoa vn my r. M sc 1 bc
sn vng, 2 hoa vng, 4 giao long vng,
4 si kim tuyn, l ci trm (nu) cng
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng ca Vng

cng triu Nguyn (BAVH); 1. M
Min 9 lu; 2. Bc sn vng; 3. Ht
ng; 4. o Cn;. 5. T tt mu mc
ln trn thng mu nht; 6. i
th mu nht, pha di ni vi cc
tua ng sc. 7. Ngc bi. 8. Chng
Ph thu trn thng. 9. Chng Pht
hnh ch thu trn thng.
Tin, khi t nh in chng ch u tham kho nhng quy ch c
sc bng vng.(1) Trn thc t, thn m
in, c bn ca Trung Quc, trn c s t to ra mt nn vn hin
Min ca hong t, vng cng v cc
ring bit. n c nh trang phc Cn Min, mt b Cn phc dnh
quan triu Nguyn rt gn gi vi dng
cho thin t phi thu 12 chng, mt chic m Min dnh cho thin
m Phc u. Cng chnh v c hnh
t phi c 12 lu. B Cn Min ca vua nh Nguyn c th thy qua
dng m Phc u cho nn phn nh m giao vi min bn vn c
cc t liu tranh nh u khp vi nhng quy ch c in ny, song cc
th nh thm trang sc bc sn.
hoa vn, trang sc hay s kt hp cc dng phc sc u c nhiu nt

c sc ring bit, khng ln vi bt k vng triu no ca Trung Quc
hay Nht Bn, Triu Tin. Quy ch Cn Min dnh cho hong t, vng
Kt hp vi m Min 9 lu l Cn phc 9 chng. Trong :

o 5 chng may bng on mu xanh en, thu chng Long
vai, chng Sn lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng
cng v b quan nh Nguyn cng tng t nh vy.
3 hnh hai ng tay o. C o mu nh mu o (mu gc).

"Bt u ch
trang phc Cn Min th Vn Miu. Nguyn Huy Nhun, vin quan gi vic trong chnh ph dng li ni:
ng thnh nhn l thy ca vng mun i, th m t trc n nay phm phc th Vn Miu vn
dng Min phc ca quan t khu, nh th khng phi t lng tn sng. Bn h lnh i dng trang phc
Cn Min. Dng trang phc ca vng th Vn Miu, bt u t y.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn: ,
Thng 4 chng lm bng on mu nht (Hun thng), thu cc
chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht, mi chng

300
hai hnh, pha trc 3 bc, pha sau 4 bc, cc
301
hnh xen k nhau.

C o Trung n sa trng thu 9 hoa vn
chng Pht.
T tt lm bng on mu nht, thu
hai chng Ha v Sn, bn trn c 2 chic mc
bng thau m vng.
Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc hnh (hnh
chic khnh),
hong
2 ngc c (hnh ch nht), cc loi ngc
(hnh bn nguyt),
xung nha
(hnh rng)
tr
ln u dng ng m vng, t ngc hnh

tr xung tht vi nm dy chp xu vi trn
Gia Hng vng mc Cn

Min 9 lu 9 chng. (nh:
Trnh Bch cung cp).
chu cht liu ngc (ngc liu chu), pha trn c mc thau m vng.
i th pha trn
lm bng on mu
nht, thu hai chng
Ha, Sn; pha di ni
Vng cng triu Nguyn bi t mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. (BAVH).
vi cc tua ng sc.
i i pha trong
mu son pha ngoi mu
lc, ni vi cch i mu
nht, 6 ming ai hnh
vung, qu trm sc pha
trc, b mt u khm
i mi, vin vng.
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. T tt v i th u thu hai
chng Ha v Sn. (BAVH).
Vng cn, hia, bt tt

u nh Triu phc.(1)
Cn phc 9 chng ca vua Triu Tin. Long 2 vai, Sn lng, cc chng

Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng tay o. (Hn Quc phc ch).
BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 9 LU 9 CHNG CA

302
HONG T NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH MINH TRUNG QUC

(theo Khm nh i Nam hi in s l, Minh hi in)
vng
cng
Theo quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh, Hong mc Cn Min 12

lu 12 chng, hong t, vng cng mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng, qun
vng mc Cn Min 7 lu 7 chng, b quan vn v t nht phm tr
Quy ch ca nh Nguyn
Vit Nam
Quy ch ca nh Minh
Trung Quc
-M Min: Min bn trc trn,

sau vung, pha trc v sau u 9
lu, mi lu lm bng to ng sc,
9 tu, xu 9 ngc; trm ng, dy
hong mu huyn nh tua mu
; dy khong mu xanh, sung
nh cht ngc trn mu trng

sau vung, pha trc v sau u
9 lu, mi lu lm bng to ng
sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc ng sc xen
k; trm ngc, ngc hnh, dy
m mu huyn, dy khong mu
xanh, sung nh dng ngc xanh,
dy hong mu , ngc trn mu
trng
-Cn phc mu xanh, thu 5

chng Sn, Long, Hoa trng,
Tng di, Ha; Long 2 vai, Sn
lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng,
Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng
tay o; c o cng mu vi mu o
-Cn phc en huyn, thu 5

Tng di, Ha; Long hai vai, Sn
Cn Min 6 Lu 5 Chng v 4 Lu 3 Chng ca cc quan triu Nguyn. (BAVH).
-Thng mu nht: thu 4

chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht,
mi chng 2 hnh
-Thng mu nht: thu 4

mi chng 2 hnh
Tuy nhin, theo quy ch ca nh Nguyn, cc quan t chnh nh
-o Trung n may bng sa trng,

thu 9 chng Pht

c o mu xanh, thu 11 chng
Pht
-T tt mu nht, thu 2
chng Ha v Sn
-T tt mu nht, thu 4
chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht
-i th pha trn thu hai chng

Ha, Sn, pha di ni vi tua
ng sc
-i th 4 mu nh tiu th 3
mu kt 2 ngc hon gia
-Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc

hnh, 2 ngc c; cc loi ngc
hong, xung nha tr ln u dng
ng m vng; t ngc hnh tr
xung tht vi nm dy chp xu
vi trn chu cht liu ngc, pha
trn c mc thau m vng

hnh, 1 ngc v, 1 ngc c, 1 xung
nha, 2 ngc hong, di ngc v
r 1 ngc hoa, 2 ngc ch; t ngc
hnh tr xung, tht vi 5 tua, xu
ngc chu; pha trn c mc vng
-Cch i mu nht, vin vng
-Cch i c mc vng
-Tt pha trn gn h tt, may

bng gm, hia u vung mu en
-Tt trng, giy Tch
Hong
t ,
b. Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, 4 lu 3 chng
xung u mc Triu phc Lng Quan lm l, khng c mc Cn Min.
phm tr ln c mc Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, cc quan vn tng nh

phm v chnh tam phm c mc Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng(1). y li
l quy ch Thu Min v Hy Min p dng cho cc quan nh Tng. Tng
s ghi nhn: Thu Min 6 lu, o 3 chng, thu H du di (tc Tng di),
To, Phn m. Thng 2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] cc chc th lang
ca su b c mc; Hy Min 4 lu, o 1 chng, thu Phn m. Thng
2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] Cc chc quang lc khanh, gim st ng
s, c sch quan, c sch quan, phn hin quan tr ln c mc.(2)
2. (Trung) Tng s. Q.152 Ch. nht bch ng. D phc T. Nguyn vn:
[]
303
Nh vy, mt cch tng

304
quan c th thy quy ch Cn
305
Min ca nh Nguyn
tham kho t hai ngun chnh
l quy ch nh Tng v nh
Minh, khp vi li nhn nh
c phn khoa trng ca triu
thn L Vn Phc ai rng
m cao, y y phc Tng Minh
vy. Trong , Cn Min 9
lu 9 chng c tham kho
t quy ch Minh, cn Cn
Min 6 lu 5 chng v 4 lu
Trang phc Hong v Hong thn triu Nguyn mc khi t Giao do Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm
1902 (Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht) ch l dng trang phc v theo tr tng tng ca
ha s. C l do Nguyn Vn Nhn cha c chng kin l t Nam Giao tn mt thy Cn Min.
3 chng c tham kho t

quy ch Tng. D nhin, nh
chng ti cp, ton b
kiu dng hoa vn, trang sc,
QUY CH CN MIN CA CC QUAN NH NGUYN
cng nh s kt hp gia cc
(theo Hi in)
phc sc (Thng, K y, i
th, t tt, i i v.v.) trong
b Cn phc ca Vit Nam
khng rp khun theo t l 1:1
so vi quy ch c ca Trung
Quc. Tnh hnh ny cng xy
ra tng t Triu Tin. So
snh s b tr hoa vn Ha,
Hoa trng, Tng di trn o
Cn 9 chng ca vua Triu
Tin vi o Cn 9 chng ca
vng cng triu Nguyn, c
th thy c s i ng tiu
d ny.
Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng ca Quan

vn Tng Nh phm v Chnh Tam
phm. (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip).
[]
Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng
Cc quan chnh nh phm
tr ln
Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng
Quan vn tng nh phm
v Chnh tam phm
M Min trc v sau u c 6 lu, mi

lu 5 dy thi to, 6 tu, xu bi 6 ht chu
cht liu ngc; xung quanh min bn
qun ng khc hoa vn my r; m m
vng sc bc sn vng, 2 giao long vng, 1
kim tuyn, ch ci trm cng sc bng
vng, cn li u theo quy ch Min phc
ca hong t v vng cng
M Min pha trc v sau u 4

lu, mi lu 5 thi to, 4 tu, xu
4 vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li
u theo quy ch ca quan chnh
nh phm; ring lc b i 2 hnh
giao long vng
o xanh 3 chng thu Phn m 2 hnh

vai 1 hnh lng; To, Tng di hai tay o,
mi chng 3 hnh; c o nh mu o
o xanh 1 chng thu Phn m 2

hnh vai, 1 hnh lng, hai ng
tay o cng li thu mi bn 2 hnh;
Thng mu nht 2 chng, thu Ph,

Pht mi chng 2 hnh; c o Trung n
lm bng sa trng thu 7 hnh Pht
Thng mu nht 2 chng,

thu 2 hnh Ph v 2 hnh Pht
T tt v i th u thu chng Sn. i th trong v ngoi u lm bng l

trng, phn eo khng c vin, ch r xung vin mu lc. Ngc bi xu bi 3
vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li u theo quy ch bi, th ca hong t v cc
vng cng. ai mu nht, mt trc sc 6 ming gm hnh vung ln hnh
qu trm, b mt u khm i mi, vin ng m vng
306
1.2. L phc Tch in
2. Triu phc
Tch in l mt trong nhng
Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, b quan
bui l quan trng ca cc nc nng
nht lot i m Phc u kt hp vi B phc. Vo thi Nguyn, m
nghip. t nht t nm 987, vua L
Phc u vn c p dng lm m Triu phc cho vn v b quan,
i Hnh ln u cy rung Tch
song c phn lm ba loi: m Phc u dng trn dnh cho quan vn,
in. Tuy nhin, do s khut lp ca
m Phc u dng vung dnh cho quan v v m Phc u nh thm
s liu, chng ta hin khng th bit
2 sng bc gi l m Gii Tri p dng cho Php quan (cc quan thc thi
c loi trang phc s dng vo dp
php lut v ng s). M Triu phc ca hong thn, thn vng nh
l Tch in ca vua quan cc triu i
Nguyn ch yu c ba loi: m Bnh nh, m Kim Quan v m Phc
inh, Tin L, L, Trn, H, Hu L.
u vung.
Song chng ti ng rng, L phc Tch
Ngoi ra, vo thi Nguyn, quy ch B t Triu phc thi L Trung
in ca cc triu i trc y c l
Hng c thay i, quay tr li lm Thng phc nh quy ch triu L
khng nm ngoi cc b Triu phc v
s v triu Minh. Song i vi cc chc quan lc phm, tht phm, o
Thng phc, c chng xut hin mt

vi bin cch nh tng t nh quy
Thng phc v Triu phc ca cc quan

triu Nguyn. (BAVH).
ch ca triu Nguyn.
bo Triu phc vn s dng B phc kt hp vi m Phc u. Ring

o bo Triu phc ca cc quan t nht phm n ng phm ln lt
c phn bit l cc loi Mng bo (cn gi l o bo T linh, thu hnh long, ln,
i vi quy ch L phc Tch in ca vua quan triu Nguyn, Hi
quy, phng),
Giao bo (o bo giao long) v Hoa bo (o bo hoa).
in ghi nhn, L phc ca hong l m Cu Long ng Cn kt
a. Tht Long ng Cn
hp vi Long bo hp tay mu vng. Nm 1827, L phc Tch in ca
Nm 1811, Triu phc
cc quan vn v chp s c quy nh l o Thi bo hp tay mu
ca hong thi t c quy
lam. Quan v i m H u, quan vn i m Vn Cng, m Xun
nh, m dng Tht Long
Thu. Bt, cu phm i Anh Cn, o Thi y hp tay. ai lng la mu

lam(1); nm 1849, L phc Tch in ca hong t v cc vng cng
c quy nh l m Kim Quan, o Thi bo hp tay mu . Trong
(2)
, m Cu Long ng Cn, m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh
ng Cn sc vng v
ngc chu. o bo rng
mu sm. Thng thu
rng 5 mng. ai sc vng
Cn l m Thng phc ca vua v vn v b quan; m Kim Quan l
tr rng.(1) Loi m Triu
m Triu phc ca hong t v thn vng. C iu, khc vi quy ch
phc Tht Long ng Cn
Thng phc B t, L phc Tch in ca vua quan nh Nguyn l s
ca hong thi t c kiu
kt hp gia m Thng phc v cc loi o Thi bo, Thi y hp tay, tc
dng tng t m Thng
loi o c thu hoa vn sc s, tng t nh o bo Triu phc.
triu Cu Long ng Cn
Quy ch c th ca cc loi m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh

Cn, Kim Quan chng ti s tip tc trnh by phn sau.
ca hong , song s lng

trang sc trn m c s gia
Vua Bo i khi cn l Hong thi t v Hong thi t

Bo Long mc Triu phc.
gim. Bc nh vua Bo i
307
QUY CH TRIU PHC BNH NH NM 1845

(theo Hi in)
308
Long bo c trn, mu sm (i Xch) ca vua ng Khnh khi cn lm Hong Thi t.
khi cn l Hong thi t v bc nh Hong thi t
Hong t, hong thn c

phong tc thn vng,
qun vng
Hong t, hong thn c phong

tc thn cng, quc cng
M
Bnh
nh
6 hoa vng, 6 rng, (?) giao

long, 24 vn kh, 10 ngn la,
4 nhiu tuyn, 4 hnh c
v 4 thy vn, nh m tr 2
hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
hnh long vn, 28 bin bao
4 hoa vng, 4 rng, 2 giao long, 24

vn kh, 10 ngn la, 4 nhiu tuyn,
2 hnh c v 2 thy vn, nh m
tr 2 hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
o bo
o bo i vn mu sm
lm bng on Bt ti ng sc
gia kim
o bo T linh mu i xch lm
bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim
ai
Trc sau c 18 ming, b

mt tr hnh mng khm
vng, cc ming ai u bc
vng
Phi tri trc sau 18 ming; ai

ca thn cng b mt tr hnh k
ln khm vng, u bc vng; ai
ca quc cng ming chnh gia
pha trc tr hnh k ln khm
vng, 4 ming hnh dt bn phi
v tri b mt tr hnh hoa khm
vng, 13 ming cn li b mt khm
gng, cc ming ai xen k nhau,
u bc vng
Bo Long trong l tn phong u th hin b Triu

phc ny.
b. Bnh nh (Bnh Thin)
Nm 1816, Triu phc ca cc v hong t,
hong tn, cng t c quy nh, m dng m
Bnh Thin sc vng v ngc chu. o bo dng
Mng bo c trn, mu sm. Thng thu rng
4 mng. ai sc vng rng 4 mng.
(1)
Thng
Lm bng sa mt mu hoa xch ng sc gia kim, thu hnh k ln
Tuy nhin
16 nm sau, vua Minh Mng ra li d, quy nh

i tn m Bnh Thin thnh m Bnh nh v cho
rng tn Bnh Thin l tn nm na khng c in
nh, v li hai ch Bnh Thin cng khng phi t
dnh cho phn b ti(2), ng thi quy nh, m
Bnh nh l m Triu phc p dng cho hong
t, hong thn c phong tc thn vng, qun
vng, thn cng, qun cng.
Tuy L vng Min

Trinh v Hong Ha
Qun vng Min
Trin i m Bnh nh
(BAVH).

. Tr.36. Nguyn vn:
M Kim quan. 1. M trong chn dung Tng thin vng Min Thm (mi tn : Bc Sn vng);
2, 4. M lu gi ti Bo tng Qun s Php (nh: Nguyn Nh an Huyn); 3. M lu gi ti
BTLSVN (nh: TQ). gii: 1.Hu x; 2. H k; 3. H Nh; 4. Giao long; 5. Vn kh; 6. Hoa;
7. Thy vn.
309
310
c. Kim Quan
d. Phc u
Theo Hi in, m Kim Quan kt hp vi o bo T linh mu l
M Phc u c p dng
Triu phc ca hong t, hong thn c phong tc qun cng, huyn
rng ri lm m Triu phc cho b
cng, hng cng, huyn hu v hng hu.
quan vn v v mt s v hong t,
311
hong thn, tn tht triu Nguyn.

Trong , m Phc u trn c
quy nh l m Triu phc ca quan
vn, m Phc u vung l m Triu
phc ca quan v (ngoi tr quan bt, cu
phm)(1),
ng thi cng l m Triu
phc ca cc v tn tht c phong
M Phc u trn, m Phc u vung,

m Gii Tri. (BAVH).
tc thn vng, qun vng, thn

cng, quc cng, qun cng, huyn
cng, hng cng, huyn hu, hng
hu, cc v hong t, hong thn, tn
tht c phong tc k ngoi hu,
k ni hu, nh hu, tr quc khanh,
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh,
Tng Thin vng Min Thm (1819 - 1870), i m Kim Quan; Quc cu triu
Nguyn lm ch hn trong m ci ca cng cha, i m Kim quan. (BAVH).
QUY CH M KIM QUAN NM 1845

(theo Hi in)
M
Kim
Quan
o bo
ai
Thng
Hong t, hong thn c

phong tc qun cng,
huyn cng
Hong t, hong thn c

phong hng cng, huyn hu,
hng hu
Sc 2 bc sn vng, pha trc v

sau 3 hoa vng, pha trc 4 giao
long vng, trn nh 2 hnh my,
1 hu x (cnh sau), 1 h k (bm
h), 2 h nh (tai h), 6 vn kh,
nh m tr 1 thy vn, 4 ngn
la, u kt chui ht gi chu
Sc 2 bc sn vng, trc v sau 2

hoa vng, cn li ging hong t,
thn vng c phong huyn
cng
o bo T linh mu hoa xch lm bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim
tr quc y, t quc y, phng quc

y, tr quc lang, t quc lang, phng
quc lang(2). Ngoi ra, loi m Phc
Hin vt m Phc u vung ca quan

v Nht phm triu Nguyn (b su tp
c nhn).
Trang sc: 1. Bc sn (cn gi l kha
kiu); 2. Hoa; 3. Giao long; 4. Ngch
tng; 5. Kha gin (cn gi l ht); 6.
Nh ; 7. Nhiu tuyn.
u c nh hai sng bc trang

sc bc sn, gi l m Gii Tri, l
m Triu phc ca ng s, ph
ng s v cc chc khoa o chng
n(3).
Quy ch Triu phc Phc u
ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
nh ln u tin vo nm 1804 thi
vua Gia Long, c chnh sa vo
nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr. Quy ch
nm 1845, v c bn tng t quy ch
Trang sc m Phc u. 1. Bc sn vng

kha kiu vng; 2. Cnh chun vin bc
vng, u sc vng, b mt nh giao long
vng; 3. Giao long vng; 4. Kha gin
vng Ht vng.
Ming chnh gia pha trc tr hnh k ln khm vng, 17 ming

cn li b mt khm gng, u bc vng
1. (Vit) i Nam in l tot yu. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.25-31.
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.56-57.
nm 1804, song tn gi ca mt s loi trang sc v s lng trang sc

312
trn m c s thay i. Nh thi Gia Long, trang sc bc sn c gi

l kha kiu, ht (trang sc trn m) c gi l kha gin v.v. Ngoi ra, t
nm 1845 tr v sau, ch c cc quan t lc phm tr ln mi c mc
Triu phc.
BNG SO SNH QUY CH TRANG SC M PHC U
NM 1804 V NM 1845
(theo Hi in)
B quan
Quy ch nm 1804
Trn
nht
phm
(Tn
nhn
ph tn
nhn
lnh)
-Phc u trn:
1 kha kiu vng,
2 ht vng cao 6
phn; ngch tng
vng, hoa vng
mt trc v sau,
hai cnh chun
vin bc vng, sc
giao long vng
Quy ch nm 1845
Tn tht c
phong tc thn
vng, qun vng
1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch
tng vng cao 4 phn
tr hnh giao long, 2
kha gin vng, pha
trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao
long vng, pha sau
2 hoa vng; hai cnh
chun vin bc vng,
b mt sc giao long
vng vn ngc chu,
u cnh chun u sc
vng; 2 nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn vng
Tn tht c
phong tc thn
cng, quc cng
Nh trn, ring ngch

tng cao 3 phn tr
hnh hoa; hai cnh
chun sc giao long
vng, u cnh chun
khng sc vng l khc
bit
-Phc u vung:
1 kha kiu vng,
2 ht vng 5 phn;
cn li nh trn
Tn tht c
phong tc qun
cng, huyn cng
Nh tn tht c
phong tc thn cng,
quc
cng,
nhng
khng c ngch tng
Tn tht c
phong hng cng,
huyn hu, hng
hu
So vi tn tht c
phong tc qun cng,
m Phc u vung
lc i 1 hoa vng pha
sau, mt m lc trang
sc giao long vng
Hong t,
thn vng, tn
tht c phong k
ngoi hu, k ni
hu, nh hu, tr
quc khanh
1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
gin vng, trc sau
1 hoa vng; hai cnh
chun vin bc bc; 2
nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
bc
Hong t,
thn vng, tn
tht c phong t
quc khanh, phng
quc khanh, tr
quc y, t quc y
1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
gin bc, trc sau 1
hoa bc; hai cnh chun
vin bc bc; 2 nh
bc, 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Hong t, thn
vng, tn tht
c phong phng
quc y, tr quc
lang, t quc lang,
phng quc lang
Trc sau 1 hoa bc, hai

cnh chun vin bc
bc, 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu
tuyn bc.
Chnh
tng
nht
phm
-Chnh nht phm:

nh quan trn nht
phm (1 kha kiu
vng, 2 ht vng
cao 6 phn; ngch
tng vng, hoa
vng mt trc v
sau, hai cnh chun
vin bc vng, sc
giao long vng)
-Tng nht phm:
1 kha kiu vng, 2
ht vng cao 5 phn,
cn li nh quan
trn nht phm
-Chnh nht phm: 1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch

tng vng cao 4 phn, pha ngoi tr hnh
giao long; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc 1 hoa
vng, 2 giao long vng; pha sau 2 hoa vng;
hai cnh chun vin bc vng, b mt sc giao
long bn ngc bng vng, u cnh chun u
sc vng; 2 nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Tng nht phm: nh chnh nht phm; ring
ngch tng cao 3 phn, tr hnh hoa; mt
m khng c ngc chu; u hai cnh chun
khng sc vng
Chnh
tng nh
phm
1 kha kiu vng,

hoa vng mt
trc v sau, hai
cnh chun vin
bc vng, sc giao
long vng
-Chnh nh phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin

vng; pha trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao long vng;
pha sau 2 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc
vng, b mt sc giao long vng; 2 nh vng,
2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Tng nh phm: nh chnh nh phm; ring
b trang sc giao long mt m
Chnh
tng
tam
phm
1 kha kiu vng,

hoa vng mt
trc v mt sau;
hai cnh chun
vin bc vng
-Chnh tam phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin

vng; pha trc pha sau u c 1 hoa vng; 2
giao long vng; 2 cnh chun vin bc vng; 2
nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Tng tam phm: nh chnh tam phm; ring
b 2 giao long vng
313
314
Chnh
tng t
phm
1 kha kiu bc, hoa

vng mt trc v
sau, hai cnh chun
vin bc vng
1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc v

sau u 1 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc
vng; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Chnh
tng
ng
phm
1 kha kiu bc, hoa

bc mt trc v
sau, hai cnh chun
vin bc bc
1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin bc; pha trc v

sau u 1 hoa bc; hai cnh chun vin bc
bc; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Chnh
tng
lc
phm
Hoa bc mt trc
v sau, hai cnh
chun vin bc bc
Pha trc, sau u c 1 hoa bc; hai cnh

chun vin bc bc; 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
bc
Chnh
tng
tht
phm
Hoa bc trc sau

u 1 bng, hai
cnh chun vin
trn
lm bng tru thu hoa. Quan lc phm

mc B phc Bch nhn mu ngc lam, o
lm bng tru bng khng thu hoa.
Nam phng danh vt b kho chp:
Mng bo l o i triu ca cc quan t
tam phm tr ln, thu hnh mng. Quan
chnh nht phm mu ng hng, tng
mu bic, tng nh phm mu lc, chnh
tam phm mu bo lam, tng tam phm
Vng cn, li bc tc, ai, ht,
Hia. (BAVH).
mu ngc lam. Giao bo l o i triu ca

quan t phm, thu hnh giao long. Lam
bo l o i triu ca quan ng phm v lc phm, o ca quan ng
Quy ch Triu phc m Phc u
phm thu thm hoa. Hoa bo l o vua ban cho cc v tam khi. Lc bo
kt hp vi B phc thi L Trung Hng
l o vua ban cho tin s.(1)
vn tip tc c p dng i vi cc
Ti Trung Quc, Mng bo xut
chc quan ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
hin t thi Minh, c gi l Mng y
Bn cnh , quy ch triu Nguyn quy
hoc Mng phc, nu khng c vua
nh: cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mc
c ban, b quan khng c s dng.
Mng bo; quan t phm theo quy ch
Vo thi Thanh, Mng bo c s
nm 1804 mc Hoa bo, t nm 1845 tr
dng lm L phc cho hong t, thn
v sau i sang mc Giao bo.
vng v vn v b quan, phn nhiu
V sc phc ca o bo i Triu,
c dng trong cc dp l tt ln nh
theo Hi in, quy ch nm 1804 quy
l Vn Th, Tt Thng Nguyn v Tt
nh, o bo Triu phc dnh cho cc
Nguyn n v.v.
quan trn nht phm l Mng bo c
Khm nh i Thanh hi in
trn mu ta, t nht phm tr xung,

nghi. Quy ch ny c sa i vo nm
B phc Vn nhn mu bo lam, o bo
nht phm mu xanh, chnh nh phm
e. Bo phc
cc mu xanh, lc, lam, en cho c ty
bo mu quan lc. Quan ng phm mc
Quan ng phm triu Nguyn mc

Triu phc. (nh: Nguyn Giang).
1845, lc ny cc quan t Tam phm tr ln u mc Mng bo, trong

quan trn nht phm mc mu ta, quan chnh nht phm mc mu
cho bit: Mng bo, mu lam v mu

thch thanh cho c ty nghi s dng,
vin vng. Thn vng, qun vng
thng dng o bo thu 9 hnh mng.
Mng bo rng my sng nc dnh cho

Hong t triu Thanh (Thanh Hi in).
c ng, tng nht phm mc mu thin thanh, chnh nh phm mc

mu cam bch, tng nh phm mc mu quan lc, chnh tam phm mc
mu bo lam, tng tam phm mu ngc lam. Quan t phm mc Giao
1. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:
315
Bi lc tr xung ti cc
tham kho b cc rng my,
quan vn v tam phm,
sng nc ca Mng bo Trung
qun qun ngch ph,
Quc giai on cui Minh u
phng quc tng qun,
Thanh. Tuy nhin, Mng bo ca b
nht ng th v u dng
quan triu Nguyn cn c thu
o bo thu 9 hnh mng
hnh phng, k ln v ra, ng
bn mng. Quan vn v
thi c tn gi l o bo T linh.
t, ng, lc phm, phng
Nm 1832 vua Minh Mng ra ch
n tng qun, huyn
d, xa nay o bo ca quan tam
qun ngch ph, nh ng
phm tr ln, tc gi l o bo T
th v tr xung dng o
linh, c hnh rng nm trong s
bo thu 8 hnh mng bn
[] cch gi nh vy u khng ph
mng. Quan vn v tht, bt, cu phm, quan v nhp lu dng o bo
hp, bi hnh phng, ln, ra ch
thu 5 hnh mng bn mng. Vt o, tn tht, thn vng tr xung u x
l hnh ph ha m thi, ch cn gi
bn vt, b quan vn v ch x hai vt trc sau. Ti Vit Nam, quy ch
Mng bo l c.(1) Mt khc, trn
Mng bo c p dng lm Triu phc cho b quan vn v ng Trong
lng o bo triu Nguyn cn bo
k t nm 1744 sau ci cch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot. i Nam thc
lu hai cnh l ph hu thi Minh
lc ghi: Cha [] chm chc ch cc i, nh Triu phc vn v. Vn
(nh L Trung Hng cng m phng dng thc
t qun b n chim hu, hun o, v t chng dinh n cai i, m
ny),
sc vng bc, o dng
Trung Quc.
316
Mt trc v mt sau ca Mng bo v Hoa bo triu

Nguyn. (BAVH).
(1)
Mng bo hoc gm
on theo cp bc.
317
Cc quan v mc Triu phc; Mt trong ba v

Tam khi triu Nguyn mc o Hoa bo, ci
hoa bc trn m. Quan nh phm mc Mng
bo v quan t phm mc Giao bo. (nh:
Albert Kahn).
ph kin ny khng xut hin trn o bo ca cc quan nh Thanh

Ngoi ra, khc vi quy ch o mo thi L Trung Hng, bt k
(2)
Cn phc, L phc, Triu phc hay Thng phc ca vua quan triu
L Qu n cng ghi
Nguyn u phi vi thng - K y, mt dng xim o mc lt bn trong
nhn sau ci cch ny,

cc quan ng Trong
dng Mng bo thy
ba (hoa vn sng nc), m
mo dng vng bc
trang sc(3).
Mng bo triu
Nguyn nhn chung
1. Mng bo (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: TQ); 2. Mng

bo mu ta ca quan Chnh nht phm v B phc Vn nhn
ca quan ng phm (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh
an Huyn).
1. (Trung) Khm nh i Thanh hi in - Q.47. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Tp I. Tr.153.

3. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc. Nguyn vn:
Xim - thng ca quan triu Nguyn.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.50. Nguyn vn: []
Hin vt Mng bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch).
Hin vt Mng bo (nh: Philippe Trng), Giao bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch).
Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht (Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm 1902). nh 1: Hong

, thi gim, hip lnh th v mc Triu phc. nh 2: Quan vn Chnh nht phm mc Triu phc
Phc u - Mng bo.
nh 3: Hong thn mc Triu phc m Kim Quan - Mng bo. nh 4: Quan vn Chnh, Tng
Ng phm mc Triu phc Phc u - Hoa bo (Theo Hi in v t liu nh chp chng ti c,
quan Ng phm khng mc Hoa bo m mc B phc. Hoa bo ch dnh cho cc v Tam khi).
322
o bo. Tuy nhin, thng ca
chnh l loi m c cc quan triu
vua quan nh Nguyn khc vi
Ty Sn s dng t th k XVIII qua li
loi thng Tin phc c s
ghi nhn ca vn thn Triu Tin Kim
dng ph bin thi L - Trn.
Chnh Trung.
Thng thi L - Trn l loi
Kt hp vi m Vn Cng l B
vy quy mu en gp np, cn
phc giao lnh. Trong , o giao lnh
thng thi Nguyn gn vi o
c lm bng sa, on, cc mu xanh,
cc tay c trn, ng thi c
lc, lam, en c ty nghi, ring c
thu ln v s hoa vn my
B quan nh Nguyn trong bui chu Thng triu.
o trng(1). B t dnh cho quan nht,
nc, c , bt bo v linh th. y c th coi l quy ch trang phc
nh phm l Tin hc, B t ca quan
mc lt c o ca ring triu Nguyn.

3. Thng phc
M ng Pha, Vn T Ti (BAVH).
Quan vn Lc phm i m ng Pha.
tam phm l Cm k. Thng, hia v

tt tng t quy ch i triu.
Quy ch Triu phc ca b quan nh Nguyn c t nh da
b. M ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn
trn hai ngun tham kho chnh l quy ch B phc ca triu L Trung
Nam phng danh vt b kho ch r: M ng Pha l m Thng
Hng v kiu dng Mng bo ca Trung Quc giai on cui Minh u
triu ca quan vn lc phm tr ln, m Vn T Ti l m Thng triu
M Vn Cng (BAVH); Quan vn

mc Thng phc Vn Cng. (Vit
Nam qua tranh khc).
Thanh. Cn trong quy ch Thng phc,
ca quan vn cu phm tr ln.(2) Theo Hi
triu nh nh Nguyn tip tc kt hp quy
in, m Vn T Ti cn c p dng lm
ch B phc ca triu L Trung Hng vi
m Thng phc cho quan v tng tht phm,
quy ch B phc ca nh Minh, song song
tng bt phm v tng cu phm (quan v tht
vi vic t nh mt s dng m mo c
phm tr xung ch t tng, khng t chnh).
o nh m Vn Cng, H u, ng Pha,
Quan vn cha nhp lu c quy nh
Xun Thu v.v. c bit, B phc ca nh L
i m Phong Cn. y cng chnh l m L
v nh Minh l dng o bo on lnh c
phc ca dn gian, p dng cho th dn sau khi
trn gn B t, nh Nguyn k tha mt
trn 20 tui, c tnh cht tng t nh loi m
phn quy ch ny p dng lm Triu phc
Sa n dng ca triu L Trung Hng. Quc
cho cc quan ng, lc, tht phm. Quy ch
s di bin ghi nhn, vn giai cha nhp lu,
Thng phc li quy nh B T nh ln
s t thi , hoc mn i nhiu hc, hoc su
o giao lnh.
nm nhiu hc, m dng Phong Cn, trc sau
3.1. Quy ch m mo
m thu hoa bc u mt ci, mc theo thn
a. M Vn Cng
phn mnh, o giao lnh, sa on cc sc xanh,
M Vn Cng l m Thng phc p
lc, lam, en, khng B t. Th dn cha lm
Lm m T Ti (K thut
ca ngi An Nam).
dng cho quan vn nht, nh, tam phm,

trang sc ton bng vng, c hai di Anh
sc hoa vng khm ngc chu(1). y cng
. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78 - Vn v quan phc. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:
323
324
quan: phm c vic nghi l gia
hin nay c chiu hng khoa trng sc s, thiu nhng nt tinh t v
quan, m dng Phong Cn sc
v in nh ca Phong Cn ngy xa.
325
en, khng thu hoa, o dng

o giao lnh mu thm, giy, tt
QUY CH M THNG PHC
u mu en.(1) Loi m Phong
CA B QUAN NH NGUYN (1804)

(theo Hi in)
Cn trong dn gian vn c gi
Cc chc sc trong lng mc L phc Phong Cn,
Quan vn Ng phm mc Thng triu phc
ng Pha. (nh: Albert Kahn).
l m T Ti. i Nam quc m

t v nh ngha m T ti cng
l mo gia l.
Cc s t ti trng thi Nam nh i m Phong Cn, mc o giao lnh. Hi in

cho bit L phc ca dn gian l m Phong Cn kt hp vi o giao lnh, giy
tt u mu thm en. Quc S di bin cn ghi nhn m Phong Cn, o giao
lnh l trang phc dng trong l Gia Quan dnh cho nam gii khi trn 20 tui.
i chiu m t ca s liu vi t liu tranh nh u th k XX, c

bit l hnh v m ng Pha, Vn T Ti ca Tn Tht Sa trong BAVH, c
th thy trn thc t m ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn u c kiu
dng tng t, c phn bit bi quy ch trang sc v mt s chi tit
nh kt cu m. Do m Phong Cn, m T Ti c quy nh l m L
phc ca dn gian, nn vn c duy tr n ngy hm nay, vi t cch
l m t s dng trong cc dp t l hi h ca ngi Vit. C iu, m t
Quan vn
Quan v
Trn nht
phm
Vn Cng: sc ton vng, hai di

thy anh trang sc kim hoa khm
ngc chu
H u: sc ton vng
Nht phm
Vn Cng: sc ton vng
H u
Nh phm
Vn Cng
H u
Tam phm
Vn Cng
H u
T phm
ng Pha: Hoa vng mt trc

v sau, cc trang sc nh hoa,
giao long u dng bc
Xun Thu
Ng phm
ng Pha: pha trc 2 hoa bc, 2

giao long bc; pha sau 1 hoa bc
2 giao long bc
Xun Thu
Lc phm

Xun Thu (Quan v tht

phm tr xung ch t
tng, khng t chnh)
Tht phm
Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc,

2 giao long bc, pha sau 1
hoa bc
Tng tht phm i Vn T

Ti nh vn chnh
tht phm
Bt phm

sau 1 hoa bc
Tng bt phm i Vn T
Ti nh vn chnh bt phm
Cu phm
Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc
Tng cu phm i Vn T
Ti nh chnh cu phm
Cha nhp
lu
Phong Cn: trc sau u sc 1

si bc
Anh Cn: trc sau u sc

1 si bc
c. M H u
Vo thng 2 nm 2011, mt pho tng v tng lm bng t nung,
i m hnh u h, mc o gip c pht hin ti x Ph Thun,
huyn c Ph, tnh Qung Ngi(1). Loi m th hin trn pho tng
1. (Vit) Quc s di bin. 1821. Tp trung 16a. Nguyn vn:
1. Qung Ngi: Tm thy mt pho tng qu. Bo Si Gn Gii phng Online. Bi ng ngy 17/03/2011.
326
Cc v quan triu Nguyn i m H u, mc o Mng lan.
ny v c bn khp vi loi m trn tng ngi thi Trn. Cn lu

rng, vo nm 1756, cha Nguyn Phc Khot ln u tin lnh cho ba
qun tng s ng Trong i H Th u mo, hay cn gi l H u
mo(1). Gia hai loi m th hin trn hai pho tng khng ng i ny
cha chc c mi quan h k tha trc tip, song c th u c m
1. Quan v tam phm i m H u, mc B phc;

2. M H u (BAVH).
phng theo quy ch H quan thi ng. Tuy nhin, c th khng nh,
m H quan thi ng khng c mi lin h v mt to hnh vi m
H u (H u quan) ca cc v quan triu Nguyn.
Vo thi Nguyn, t nm 1804, m H u kt hp vi B phc K
ln, Bch trch, S t c quy nh l Thng phc ca quan v nht,
nh, tam phm. Nm 1845, vua Thiu Tr ph chun cho cc quan v gi
cc chc thng qun, cai qun cc qun doanh cho n chng ph
thng, thng ch, chng v, v y, ph v y u c i m H u
kt hp vi o Mng lan(2).
o Mng lan l dng o hp tay, c li thu sc tng t nh Mng
bo, song chiu di vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng bo. Hi in
cho bit: Trc y o hp tay ca quan vin th v c gi l o Long
Chn, nh vy khng ph hp [] nay gi o hp tay l Mng lan mi phi.
T ry khng c gi theo cch gi trc kia lm r danh phn.(3)
1. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc - Q.8. Tr.14. Nguyn vn:
1756
B t K ln ca triu Nguyn (Silken threadsA History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan

and Vietnam).
Thng phc m H u, B phc K ln, o

giao lnh c trng ca quan v nht phm triu
Nguyn (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip).
328
QUY CH M H U, O MNG LAN
chng ti hin cha th lm r c thn phn ca nhng ngi i m
DNH CHO CC CHC QUAN CAI QUN,
Xun Thu trong mt s bc nh ny. Song d sao, m Xun Thu cng
THNG QUN QUN DOANH V NM 1845
l mt loi m ht sc c bit bi tnh ph dng ca n trong cung
(theo Hi in)
nh nh Nguyn, khi va l m L phc ca vua, ng thi cng l m

Thng phc ca mt s hong thn v cc chc quan nh.
M H u
o Mng Lan
ai
Bc sn vng, mt
trc v sau 3 hoa
vng, 2 giao long, 1 h
k, 2 c , 2 thy vn,
bin bao, nhiu tuyn
Mu t n, may
bng on ng sc
gia kim, o song
khai, thng kp
Cai qun
1 hoa vng pha trc,

cn li nh thng qun
Mu tng sm
Chng ph
thng
Thm 2 hnh ngn la

vng
Mu t n
M sc vng
Mu mc xch
ai ca cc
quan
v
ming chnh
gia
pha
trc
sc
vng, tr hoa;
cc
ming
ng phi tri
dng mai i
mi bc vng
xen k bc
bc,
khng
cn m
V y
Lc bt 2 giao long
vng mt trc m
Mu tng sm
Ph v y
Lc bt 2 giao long
vng v 1 hoa vng
Mu bo lam v
mu thin thanh
Thng qun
Thng ch,
chng v
d. M Xun Thu
M Xun Thu va l m L phc
ca Hong , va l m Thng phc
ca cc quan v t, ng, lc phm triu
Nguyn. Theo Hi in, m Xun Thu
kt hp vi B phc cn l Thng
phc ca cc v hong t, hong thn,
tn tht c phong tc thn vng,
qun vng, thn cng, quc cng, k
ngoi hu, k ni hu, tr quc khanh,
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh v.v.
Tuy nhin, da trn mt s t
liu nh chp cung nh triu Nguyn
u th k XX, chng ti nhn thy i
M Xun Thu (BAVH); Ngi ng u

i Nhc cng i m Xun Thu.
tng s dng m Xun Thu cn c mt s ngch quan th v, thm

ch l i trng i nhc cng (?). Do thiu t liu vn t i chiu nn
QUY CH THNG PHC XUN THU

CA HONG THN V CC QUAN V T, NG,
LC PHM TRIU NGUYN
(theo Hi in)
M Xun Thu
o giao lnh
B t
Thng
Hong
t, hong
thn, tn
tht c
phong
tc thn
vng
- qun
vng
-thn
cng quc cng;
qun cng
- huyn
cng;
hng
cng huyn hu
- hng
hu
Sc ton vng
C o mu
trng; o mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho c
ty tin
K ln
Bch trch
S t
Nn vng
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
k ngoi
hu, k
ni hu,
nh hu,
tr quc
khanh
Sc vng bc an
xen, pha trc v
sau u c 1 hoa
vng, cc trang
sc hoa, giao long
u dng cht
liu bc
C o mu
trng; o mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho c
ty tin
Nn
329
330
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
t quc
khanh,
phng
quc
khanh, tr
quc y, t
quc y
Pha trc 2 hoa,

2 giao long, pha
sau 1 hoa, 2 giao
long u bng
bc
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
phng
quc y,
tr quc
lang, t
quc lang,
phng
quc lang
Pha trc 1 hoa,

2 giao long, pha
sau 1 hoa u
bng bc
Cng t
c t
phong
tc nh
hu, quan
v t
phm
Pha trc v sau

u 1 hoa vng,
trang sc hoa,
giao long cn li
u dng bc
C o nh mu
o, xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Cng t: lc
Quan:
Quan v
ng phm
Pha
bc,
bc;
hoa
trc 2 hoa
2 giao long
pha sau 1
bc 2 giao
long bc
C o nh mu
o, xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Bo
Nn
Quan v
lc phm
Pha trc 1 hoa

bc, 2 giao long
bc; pha sau 1
hoa bc
C o nh mu
o, xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Hng
Nn
C o mu
trng; o mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho c
ty tin
Bo
Nn
o giao lnh. Phm cp ca b quan ngoi vic c phn bit hnh

dng B t cn c phn bit mu sc ca c o. Trong , c o giao
lnh ca cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mu trng; c o ca cc chc
quan cn li c mu sc ging mu o gc. o mu xanh, lc, lam, en
c s dng ty nghi (1).
o mu
trng; o
mu xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Hng
Nn
L b ng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
3.2. Quy ch B phc

Qua so snh quy ch B t ca nh Minh, nh L Trung Hng v
nh Nguyn, c th thy quy ch ca nh Nguyn v c bn k tha quy
ch ca nh L Trung Hng, ng thi tham kho thm mt phn quy
ch ca nh Minh. Tuy nhin dng o on lnh c trn trong quy ch
B phc ca nh Minh v nh L c nh Nguyn thay th bi dng
Mt s hin vt B t ca Vit Nam: 1. Bch nhn (Bo tng Dn tc hc

Vit Nam); 2. Vn nhn (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh an
Huyn); 3. Kh xch (nh: Trnh Bch); 4.Tin hc (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn: []

[][][].
331
NH THANH
BNG SO SNH QUY CH B T

CA NH MINH, NH L TRUNG HNG V NH NGUYN
(theo Minh thc lc, Ton th v Hi in)
Minh
L Trung Hng
Nguyn
Hong t, vng cng:

K ln, Bch trch
Hong t, hong
thn: K ln
Hong thi t:
Rng 5 mng
Hong t: Rng 4
mng
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Quan
v
Quan
vn
Quan v
Nht
phm
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
K ln
Nh
phm
Cm k
S t
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
Bch
trch
Tam
phm
Khng
tc
H bo
Cm k
Bch
trch
Cm k
S t
T phm
Vn nhn
H bo
Khng
tc
Khng
tc
Ng
phm
Bch
nhn
Hng bi
Vn nhn
Bo
Vn
nhn
Bo
Lc phm
L t
Bu
Bch
nhn
Tng
Bch
nhn
Hng
(gu)
Tht
phm
Kh xch
Bu
Bch
nhn
Tng
L t
Bu
Bt phm
Hong ly
T ngu
Bch
nhn
Tng
Kh xch
Hi m
Cu
phm
Am thun
Hi m
Bch
nhn
Tng
Liu
thun
T ngu
Php
quan
Cha
nhp lu
LU CU
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Nht phm
Tin hc
K ln
Khng tc
H bo
Cm k
Nh phm
Cm k
S t
Vn nhn
H bo
Cm k
Tam phm
Khng tc
Bo
Bch nhn
Hng bo
Khng tc
T phm
Vn nhn
Vn nhn
Ng phm
Bch nhn
Hng
Lc phm
L t
Bu
Tht phm
Kh xch
T ngu
Bt phm
Am thun
T ngu
Cu phm
Luyn tc
Hi m
Sau nm
1609, quan
ch ca Lu
Cu khng
t cc
chc quan
v, qun
i cng b
gii th
Php quan: Gii tri
Quan phc ca tin s

(theo Hi in)
Tin s
Nm
1822
nht
gip, nht
danh
M
Y phc
Y phc
1838
Khng dng B T

CA NH THANH, NH TRIU TIN V LU CU
(theo Thanh s co, Triu Tin oan Tng thc lc, Cu dng k s)
o m nh
quan lc
phm
Gii tri
Luyn tc
NH TRIU TIN
1840
nht gip,
nh danh,
tam danh
nh
gip
tam gip
Vn T Ti
1 o giao lnh may bng sa Nam, 1 thng
may bng sa Nam, 1 vng cn, 1 hia
Sa (mt trc, sau u nh 1 hoa bc)
o m nh
quan lc
phm
Sa (1 hoa
vng pha
trc, 1 hoa
bc pha sau;
bc sn bc,
2 cnh vin
bc)
o bo lm bng sa, on trn (khng vn

sc) mu lam, lc; B t thu hnh my;
thng lm bng sa Nam, ming B t thu 2
bn cng thu hnh my; ai bc ng; vng
cn, hia.
Sa
(1 hoa bc
m vng pha
trc, 1 hoa
bc pha sau,
2 cnh vin
bc)
Sa
(pha
trc v
sau u 1
hoa bc, 2
cnh vin
bc)
Sa
(pha trc v
sau u 1 hoa
bc, 2 cnh
khng vin
bc)
III. TRANG PHC HU PHI

Y phc
1847
-o bo mu lc may bng on Bt ti i Hoa, ai bc on

Xch v, 1 ming pha trc bc bc m vng, 2 ming bc
bc, u mt i mi, 7 ming cn li bc ng, mt sng
en; thng may bng sa, on tn hoa mu lam; B t nn
thu Bch nhn; vng cn, hia, ht g
-Ring tam gip: B t nn thu L t; ai sc sng en,
3 ming bc bc, 7 ming bc ng; cn li nh trn
B t
Vn nhn
Bch nhn
335
L t
Quan phc ca c nhn (1807)

v v c nhn (1846)
Y phc
C nhn vn
C nhn v
Vn T Ti (mt trc,
sau u nh 1 hoa bc)
Vin nh (nh trn,

mu en, lm bng
lnh Nam trn, trc
sc hoa bc, trn nh
m 1 h l bc)
o giao lnh may bng

vi mu; Vng cn, hia.
(nm 1825 i cht liu
may o thnh sa Nam lt
la trng, thm 1 thng,
cn li nh nm 1807)
o M lm bng
tru Nam i Hoa
mu bo lam lt vi
; B t trn mu
xch tr; mt trc v
sau o thu ch V C
Quan phc ca hc tr Quc T Gim (1823) v tn sinh (1827)
Y phc
Hc tr Quc T
Gim
Tn sinh
Vn T Ti (lm bng
la sa, mt trc nh 1
hoa bc)
T
Phng
Bnh nh
o giao lnh may bng

sa Nam lt la trng;
thng la, qun mu
xanh; Vng cn, hia
o giao lnh
may
bng
sa Hoa tht
mu bo lam
lt la trng;
thng may
bng
tru;
Vng cn, hia
Hoa vn loan thu trn o ca hu phi triu Nguyn (Bo tng M

thut Cung nh Hu. nh: TQ).
Trc thi Nguyn, chim phng khng ch l hnh tng ngm v

vi hu phi, mnh ph m cn c p dng lm trang sc trn vt dng
ca vua cha, vng hu, nhm nh r trt t tn ti, nh nm 1254 thi
vua Trn Thi Tng, quy ch xe kiu c quy nh: T tng tht n
cc quan ng phm u c ngi kiu, nga, vng. Tng tht th dng
kiu u chim phng, sn son. Tng quc dng kiu u chim anh
v, lng ta sn en. Tam phm tr ln dng kiu u my, lng xanh.
T phm n lc phm kiu u bng(1) Quy ch L phc ca b quan
triu Trn quy nh ch c tc hu, minh t mi c mc o thu hnh
Phng c. Vo cui thi L s, Ton th cho bit Mc ng Dung s
dng lng phng dt vng. Vo thi Nguyn, hnh tng chim Phng
cn c thu ln Triu phc ca cc quan trn T phm.
Ring vi quy ch L phc hu cung, triu Nguyn quy nh: hong
thi hu v hong hu i m Cu Phng, trng cng cha i m
Tht Phng, cng cha i m Ng Phng. Cung tn thuc nht, nh,
tam giai, ty theo cp bc c dng cc trang sc Kim c pht
tc bng vng) bt
(b
phng, tht phng, ng phng, tam phng v nht
phng. Vic hong thi hu, hong hu i m Cu Phng tng t

vic hong i m Cu Long. Bi Cu, s 9, c coi l s dng ln
nht, tng trng cho ngi v ch tn, vnh cu.
1. Triu phc
tit trang sc no. Ring vi
1.1. Cu Phng
336
miu t ca Hi in v ngch
Phng bo l Triu phc dnh
cn, c th thy y l khn c
ring cho hong thi hu v
nh bi tc ca hong hu,
hong hu triu Nguyn. Trong
tng t vng cn ca vua quan
, m Cu Phng ca hong
triu Nguyn.
Cu
Phng
hu c thn m lm bng lng
Kt hp vi m Cu
m v, trm bi tc, sc 9 hnh
Phng l Phng bo. Phng
phng ma rng bay, khm 9
bo ca hong hu c lm
chic lp bn, 1 ming vn hoa
bng on Bt ti bng mu
b tc, 1 ming bc sn, 12 cnh
Bc sn vng trn m ca mnh ph. (nh: V

Kim Lc).
Hong hu Nam Phng v Hong Thi hu

oan Huy.
vng chnh sc thu phng hoa trn, sng nc, lt tru phng hoa
2 cnh ht pha trc, 1 vng lin ng bc tc,
Thng lm bng on Bt ti mu tuyt bch, thu Phng hoa
4 a hoa mai, 2 on hoa lin ng trang sc
trn xen vng, lt di la Cao b mu tuyt bch. ai vng, thn ai
chn tc, 1 ming kha (kiu) pha sau, ph hnh
dng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc, u sc vng,
phng vng nm mt on ch, 4 thn trm
18 ming vung dt u lt mt gng, khm hoa vng tr rng, 2 chic
bch kim u xu chui thy anh, 198 ht trn
mc vng. Hi lm bng t lng v mu , vin thu phng. Bt tt lm
chu c nh, khm 235 ht pha l cc loi. Ngch
bng lnh Nam bng mu tuyt bch.
hoa bm, 4 a hoa sc trm,
M Thi hu v Hong hu
dng trang sc chn phng
ngm sch, vng ngc an
xen, Hi ca Thi Hu,
Hong hu l hi thu Phng
(K thut ca ngi An Nam).
337
mu hoa xch. C o lm bng lnh bng Lai l mu tuyt bch.
cn lm bng on Bt ti mu thin thanh lt
Phng bo ca hong thi
lnh i to mu vng chnh sc sc 4 khuyn
hu c lm bng sa mt mu
vng, 1 di thao t. M Cu Phng dnh cho
vng chnh sc, thu ch Th
hong thi hu tng t m ca hong hu, song
ng sc gia kim, hoa, sng nc
vic xu ngc chu, khm gng c ty (1).
xen k kt san h, gng, lt tru
i chiu t liu hnh nh xut hin hnh
mu hoa xch v sa mt thu Hoa.
tng m Phng th hin trong cc bc nh
Thng lm bng on Bt ti
hong hu, cng cha triu Nguyn, c th thy
bng mu hoa xch thu phng
nh m trm bi tc m Cu Phng trong K
, hoa, sng nc, xen k kt gng
thut ca ngi An Nam c phn khoa trng,
Ty. Vin on gm nn vng lin
song kiu dng tng i thng nht. Tuy nhin

chng ti cha th xc nh c cc khi nim
lp bn, vn hoa b tc v.v. c th ch nhng chi
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.11 13. Nguyn vn: :
[]:
Trm Phng bng vng thi cha Nguyn

(nh: V Kim Lc).
ng, lt sa Hong qu, ni lin

vi o la trng. Bt tt lm bng
lnh bng mu tuyt bch, lt tru
bng mu hoa xch, vin c bt tt c hai dy thao lm bng tru bng

mu hoa xch. Hi lm bng t lng v mu vng chnh sc thu phng
xen k kt san h, trn chu, gng ca Ty dng. (1)
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.11-13. Nguyn vn: :
L phc ca Ph M, Cng cha v Hu phi triu Nguyn

(Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht).
Tin cung Hong Thi hu, thn mu ca vua Khi nh

(nh: Trnh Bch).
341
340
Phng trn o bo ca qu phi triu Nguyn (Nguyn

mu. Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA CNG CHA TRIU NGUYN

NM 1808, 1824, 1833 V 1845
(theo Hi in)
Nm
1808
Phng bo phc ch (Bu vt triu Nguyn); Hi thu rng phng triu

Nguyn (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).
Ni
dung
M
Y phc
Y phc
o bo may bng on Bt ti bng

mu hoa xch thu hnh phng ;
thng may bng on Bt ti mu
tuyt bch thu hnh phng ng
sc xen kim tuyn; ai: thn ai lm
bng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng
mu hoa xch, sc 18 ming cc hnh
vung dt bng vng, b mt tr c
, vn phng lt mt knh; 1 i
Kim c pht; 1 i tt may bng
lnh Bt ti mu tuyt bch; 1 i hi
lm bng t Xch v thu phng
m Tht Phng, mc Phng bo mu sm. T nm 1845 tr v

cng cha cn li ch c i m Ng Phng, mc Phng bo mu
1824
hoa xch. Cc loi Phng bo dnh cho cng cha u c may bng
on Bt ti, thu hoa vn phng , kt hp vi thng mu tuyt bch,
i hi thu phng .
(1)
[]:
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.33-34. Nguyn vn:[]

[]
o bo n mu thu hnh loan phng; 1 chic ai; 1

chic vy i triu mu trng dt hnh phng ; 1 i hia,
1 i tt
M Tht Phng, thn m lm
bng lng m v trm bi tc, sc
vng 85 tui, 2 chic kha kiu vng,
1 chic sc chn tc, 7 hnh phng
bay, 4 ming c , 2 a hoa mai, 4
a hoa cc, 7 a hoa mn, 4 trm
hoa, 1 vng sc quanh nh u, 1
vng sc quanh vin m, u nh
vi mt ming tuyn kha tr hnh
phng, 2 ming kha bn, 1 b
trm bch kim xu 120 ht gi chu
khm 230 ht pha l
Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1808, cc cng cha u c i
Cng cha
M Tht Phng, kha kiu vng nng 4 lng vng
1.2. Tht Phng, Ng Phng
sau, ch c trng cng cha tip tc s dng m Tht Phng, cc v
Trng cng cha
1833
M
Y phc
342
1845
Y phc
M Tht Phng
o bo n may bng
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
phng ng sc gia
kim; 1 thng n may
bng on Bt ti mu
tuyt bch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen
kim tuyn; 1 ai vng,
1 i hia, tt
M Ng Phng, 1
chic mt ngch sc
vng, bch kim, trn
chu, san h
hong hu, cng cha hay cung tn u vn khn vnh, mc o Nht

Bnh, chng t quy ch trang phc ca hu phi triu Nguyn n thi
vua ng Khnh, Khi nh vn c sa i.
Khn vnh, cn gi khn vnh dy, l mt kh vi di hn chc
mt, kh rng 30cm, c vn gp np thnh hnh ch Nhn gia
trn, sau qun nhiu vng quanh u, c khi ln ti 20, 30 vng. Loi
khn ny vo cui thi Nguyn c kt hp vi o Nht Bnh, p dng
lm Thng phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu v Triu phc ca
mnh ph, cung tn, phn ln c mu xanh lam. Sau ny, khn vnh
dn c ph bin trong dn gian, c ph n Vit Nam s dng trong
cc dp l nghi trang trng.
o bo n may bng
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen
kim tuyn; ai sc
vng v bch kim
2. Thng phc
Theo Hi in, o Nht Bnh l Triu

phc dnh cho cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai
v l Thng phc ca hong hu, cng cha.
o Nht Bnh c nguyn mu l dng o Phi
Hong Thi hu oan Huy, Trng cng cha con vua ng Khnh, Hong hu Nam Phng.
Phong thi Minh, l loi o x c, c dng i

khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh ch nht
trc ngc, di c c di vi buc hai vt
o. Thng phc Nht Bnh c t nh vo
nm 1807 thi vua Gia Long v c duy tr cho
n cui thi Nguyn. Song quy ch m mo
kt hp vi loi trang phc ny khng n nh.
Nh quy ch nm 1807 quy nh t hong hu
n cung tn t giai nht lot s dng Kim c
Cng cha triu Nguyn.
pht phi vi o Nht Bnh, n nm 1846 thi vua Thiu Tr, Kim c
pht c thay th bng mt loi th sc c tn Kim phng. Cung tn
tam giai, t giai v ng giai cn c phn bit bi s lng trm ci.
Kiu dng c th ca Kim c pht v Kim phng, chng ti cha
th kho c. Song t liu tranh nh u th k XX cho thy bt k
Phc dng li trang im ca hu phi triu Nguyn trong dp i l; Trng cng cha con vua Dc c.
(nh: Trnh Bch).
343
IV. TRANG PHC QUN I

T
344
Nguyn,
thi
cha
trang
phc
345
qun i v dn gian
ng Trong tri qua
mt cuc bin cch
ln. n thi Nguyn,
chng ta khng cn
thy s xut hin ca
b qun trang Gip tr,
thay vo , quan vin
ban v phn ng i
o Nht Bnh thu Phng , Loan (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).
Binh lnh thi Minh Mng

(Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php).
m H u, mc Mng Lan. Binh lnh cng khng cn ci trn ng

kh nh thi L Trung Hng.
Nm 1835, Thi nh Lan
QUY CH L PHC CA HU PHI NM 1807
m t: Lnh cp dch tnh gi
(theo Hi in)
l tnh binh, i nn na, nn
Ni
dung
Hong hu
Cng cha
Cung tn
nh giai
Cung tn
tam giai
Cung tn
t giai
2 chic Cu
long Kim c
pht, 1 chic
Cu phng
Kim c
pht, 8 trm
phng
1 chic Tht
phng
Kim c
pht, 12
trm hoa
1 chic Ng
phng
Kim c
pht, 10
trm hoa
1 chic
Tam
phng
Kim c
pht, 8
trm hoa
1 chic
Nht
phng
Kim c
pht, 8
trm hoa
1 o bo lm
bng sa si
vng thu
20 hnh rng
phng, loan,
tr, 1 thng
lm bng t
Bt ti mu
trng thu
rng phng
1 o Nht
Bnh may
bng sa
si ,
thu hnh
phng
1 o Nht
Bnh lm
bng sa
mu tm
chnh
sc thu
phng ,
1 thng
lm bng
t Bt ti
trng thu
loan
1 o Nht
Bnh lm
bng sa
mu tm
nht, 1
thng
lm bng
t Bt ti
trng thu
loan
Y
phc
1 o Nht
Bnh lm
bng sa
mu xch
o thu
loan , 1
thng lm
bng t Bt
ti trng thu
loan
(Thiu Tr 6-1846) Cung tn nht nh

giai: m Kim phng u c 3 bc sn,
ring nht giai 8 phng, nh giai 7
phng; tam giai trn bi tc ci trm
phng; t giai, ng giai trn bi tc
khng ci trm t s phn bit
nh ch che u, qut sn
mu vng, chm cm lng g,
o dng loi dt len mu ,
vin mu lc, ng tay mu lc.
Lnh ph, huyn gi l ph
binh, huyn binh, i nn qut
sn mu lc, mu en, cm
lng g, o dng vi en, vin
, ng tay mu .(1) Nhng
dng m t ca Thi nh Lan
hon ton khp vi nhng bc
v binh lnh Vit Nam do mt
1. Nn K Mao, lnh kinh k i; 2. Nn K binh;
3. Nn lnh Tp; 4. i Binh; 5. o lnh An Nam; 6.
Lnh Tp kh xanh. (K thut ca ngi An Nam).
s ngi phng Ty khc ha.

Ngoi ra, qua tranh nh u th
k XX vi nhng hnh v m t
1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp tr - Vit Nam k lc. Nguyn vn:
kh chi tit trang phc

346
TRANG PHC QUN I TRIU NGUYN
ca mt s hng qun
(theo Qun lc Vit Nam di cc triu i phong kin, bn sao ca EFEO)
binh nh lnh cm v,
lnh k binh hong gia,
lnh th v, lnh thy
qun, lnh pho th,
lnh bn sng thn
cng, lnh hu trong
cung, lnh hu n v.v.
do Vin Vin ng Bc
o th v (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu), o lnh, o ca

i nghi v (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China,
Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
C (EFEO) thc hin, c th thy binh lnh triu Nguyn tuyt i a s

u i nn, i t. S phn bit gia cc hng binh lnh ch yu nm
kiu dng nn mo. Ring o mc phn nhiu l loi o song khai(1), ci
khuy, x vt trc v sau, vai o c vin my bao quanh, gi l vn kin.
Ngoi ra, t sau khi chim ng Nam k, Bc k, ngi Php thnh
lp n v qun bn x ph tr cho qun chnh quy ca Php, gi l
lnh Tp. Lnh Tp cn c gi l lnh kh , lnh kh xanh, bi b
qun trang c trng ca hng lnh ny l nn dp, qun o chn, c
bit l di tht lng buc bng c mt u bung xung che phn h
b, trng tng t nh chic kh.
Chu bn triu Nguyn
(Thnh Thi quyn s 43, t s 8 9)
Nin i: Ngy 16 thng 3 nhun nm Thnh Thi th 10
(1898)
Ni dung: Th v x tu xin may qun o cho binh lnh h
gi. Vua Thnh Thi ch thn thit k kiu o nn mi v
chun cho may mc.
Chu ph: 1. Loi nn qun trang ny trng cha c
nh, o qun trang th khng tin ci nga. Nay chun cho
lm theo kiu mi; 2. Sng nn dng st nm bc. Nn
dng mu en; 3. o qun trang di mt thc hai tc
nm phn, mu lc, vin . Bn trong mc o vi trng. ai
lng dng mu lc; 4. Nn ca v li cng chiu theo kiu
ny. Ty theo chc tc m nh (tn chc) vo trc nn.
Hnh trn trc ngc o qun trang (ca v li) chiu theo
hnh B t m thu vo.
1. i Nam quc m t v nh ngha: o song khai l o x vt trc, vt sau.
mc qun trng. Nhng con nh t t
V. TRANG PHC DN GIAN

348
gia gio khng bao gi ly Ty, d Ty
1. Y phc
Triu Nguyn l triu i qun ch cui
c giu, sang trng n my. Cho nn
cng ca Vit Nam, triu i lu li nhiu
bn qun trng l t t co lm ngh
n tng mc nh v nhng nh hng lu
ly Ty. Tri li, t gia th k XIX, n
di trong quan nim ca ngi Vit hin i
b x Hu kh gi i cht u mc
v phong tc tp qun ca ng cha, trong
qun trng, h l v con nhng cng
c quan nim v trang phc. Tuy nhin,
chc cc s thuc ta khm s, cc c
vn hin o m ca mi mt triu i u
quan thuc su b ca triu nh []
c s k tha, bin d so vi quy ch o m
Np sng rnh ri cnh v, cho nn y
ca triu i lin k. Khong cch gia cc
phc sang trng qu phi. Cn dn lao
triu i cng xa, s bin d theo cng ln.
ng n mc lem luc th khng mc
Ngay trang phc trong dn gian, mc d c
qun trng. Tuy nhin sau qun
tnh bo th v t bin cch nh trang phc

cung nh, song so vi thi L, Trn, trang
C ng i khn xp, o the.

(Hnh nh H Ni).
ban u cn rt r, sau khp ni u

a chung.(1) Nh vy s kt hp gia
nhiu thay i. c bit phi k n vic ph bin o di c ng ci
o di nm thn v qun mu trng
khuy, ph b o giao lnh trong dn gian mang tnh cng p di thi
hn ch xut hin t u th k XX tr
vua Minh Mng.
v sau, trc ngi Vit hu ht u

mc qun mu thm hoc mu .
Nam thi Nguyn hin nhin l b qun chn o cht. Song theo ghi
C iu, sau nhng phong tro ci
nhn ca Thi nh Lan th vo nm 1835 thi vua Minh Mng, nam
lng nu cao tinh thn on tuyt lc
gii ngi Vit Trung, Nam k thng mc o cht mu en ci khuy
hu, hng ti vn minh t cui th k
hp tay kt hp vi qun nhiu . ng cho bit (h) u dng la
XIX, song song vi vic ct b bi t,
en vn u, mc o en ng tay hp, qun may bng lnh , i chn
rng trng, khng t nam n ngi
t. Quan vin Vit Nam ra ngoi cng u i t, o khng phn ma
Vit, c bit l gii tr thc Ty hc
nng ma lnh, ma ng vn mc o la mng. Ngi sang hay dng
dn i sang mc trang phc chu u.
hai mu lam, en, vn khn quanh u cng nh vy, qun u mu
Trang phc ca n gii lc ny cng
.(1) Ring loi qun chn o cht ca n gii, theo Phan K Bnh,
tri qua nhng t bin cch v kiu
trong khong nhng nm 1910-1915, qun th phn nhiu mc qun
dng nhm lc bt s lng thng ca
si, qun lnh thm, i khi cng c ngi mc qun nhiu .
Nht
loi o truyn thng trc y. Nhng
Thanh ghi li khong t 1910 tr i c nhng me Ty bo dn bt u
ci cch kiu dng o di n tiu biu
(2)
phi k n o di Le Mur ca ha s
Ct Tng nm 1930 v o di L Ph
1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp trc. Nguyn vn:
2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr. 324.
Thy kha mc u phc (Hnh nh H

Ni); Thiu n mc o di sau khi
cch tn.
trng dn d c dng vi n gii,
phc dn gian thi L, Nguyn cng c
Loi trang phc ph bin nht trong cung nh v dn gian Vit
349
1. t l qu thi. Tr. 212.
1. V chng nng dn o ti, vy p;

2. ng chu n xin; 3.ng gi mc o
cc (loi o c vt trc khp chm
ln gi na vt bn phi, nm khuy
ci khuyt tt vi vi hai di bi cho
buc pha di, khong nm 1970 cn
t ngi Thun Qung a mc. t l
qu thi. Tr. 218); 4. Ngi n b quy
gnh, cht khn vung i nn ba tm.
ca ha s L Ph nm 1934. ng Ct
Tng pht biu trn t Phong ha
350
351
v chic o di n kiu c cho bit: Y

phc ca cc bn gi, ti xem thy c
nhiu iu bt tin m li khng c v
chi l m thut. Tuy rng vi nm gn
y cng c mt vi phn sa i [...]
chng qua ch my ci mu sc sc
s, my th hng l nc ngoi [...]
cn th vn kiu o le xe y, vn ci
qun lng thng en ngm y. Hoc
Ph n Gia nh bi tc; Tr con vn khn; Soi gng i khn; Bi tc.

gi cng c ngi a mc qun trng
dng cc loi tht lng ln nh, tht li trc bng, thot khi nhng
song tic rng s vn rt t [...] Cn
cm lnh kht khe di triu vua Minh Mng.
sa i dn: trc ht phi hp vi kh
Ngoi ra, c mt s kin cho rng vo u th k XIX, trong gii
hu x ta, vi thi tit cc ma, vi
phong lu nho nh s dng loi o b ba, loi o c ngun gc t
cng vic, vi khun kh, mc thc
o Penang Malaysia, ni c tc ngi B Ba sinh sng(1). Da vo mt
ca thn hnh mi bn. Sau na phi
s bc ha trong An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t sinh
gn gng, gin d, mnh m v c v
do ngi Nht Bn v vo nm 1794 ti vng ng Trong, c th thy
m thut v lch s. Chng ti ng
ngay t cui th k XVIII, loi o vt ngn khng bu, x gia, ci bng
tnh vi quan im ca b Nguyn
cc xut hin ti vng ng Trong Vit Nam. Nhiu kh nng y
Th Chn Qunh khi cho rng ng
chnh l tin thn ca loi o b ba. Tuy
Ct Tng ch l mt mt xch trong
nhin, ngun gc ca loi o ny c phi
chui di nhng ngi khng li
xut pht t o Pengnang Malaysia hay
tn tui nhng cng gp phn ci sa, gip cho ci o di mang hnh
khng, hin cha c t liu no c th
dng hin nay, cng nhn nh ng Ct Tng ch o Vit Nam le xe,
khng nh c.
Ngi ng Trong nm 1794 c v trong

An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t
sinh . (T Lan cung cp).
lng thng, khng m thut, nhng ti li thy o t thn, o giao lnh

cng nh o di u p c, mi ci mt v. Nhn tm ty thch, kh m
tranh ci.(1)
2. Kiu tc
Sau mt lot sc lnh cm s dng
cc loi m Tin phc triu L ban b
i vi tng lp dn ngho, s gia Trn Trng Kim cho bit: Cch
vo thi vua Minh Mng trong khong t
n mc th ch c vi nu, ngi ngho kh ch c manh o cnh v
nm 1828 n nm 1842, nam gii ngi
thng th ng ci kh, c i u mi mc ci qun vi di n u gi.
Vit trong ton quc hu ht u bi tc
Ngi sung tc mi c vi ci o nu en v vi ci qun hoc nhum
vn khn theo phong tc ng Trong.
nu, hoc trng . Ph n Bc k vn mc o t thn, vy p, vn s
Ban u, cc loi khn lt, khn nhiu,
(2)
khn thm ca n ng c qun ri,

1. o di xa nay. (http://chimviet.free.fr/quehuong/chquynh/chqyn_aodaixuanay.htm).
2. Vit Nam s lc. Tr.537.
C gi i khn xp khong nm 1945.

(Hnh nh H Ni).
1. Din o b ba n khch Ty. Dn theo Tp ch Hn Vit. Tr.31.
352
M Ni. (Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php; K thut ca

ngi An Nam).
v sau c qun xp np
bng nan giang, qut
u n, cht theo kiu ch
sn du trn mt cho
Nht , hoc ch Nhn
khi thm nc ma
gia trn. Khong nm
gi l nn sn. Nn lp
1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi
bng l da rt mng,
ch ra loi khn xp, khu
nh, quai la bch, i
dn lin nhng vnh np
trng ra v ho hoa
li, ch vic t chp ln
phong nh. Quan liu
u cho nhanh chng v
a i nn lng, lng
thun tin.
cnh chim lp hai t,
(1)
353
Xe si. (nh: Albert Kahn).
Trong khi , ph n ng Ngoi vn vn khn thm, lt, nhiu,
trn nh c chp bng bc chm tr, hay bng i mi vnh vng vnh
i thm khn vung m qu bng vi nu hoc xuyn, bt chp lnh
bc.(1) Loi nn b ca n b m Phan K Bnh nhc ti ch cc loi nn
cm n b khng c dng vi, la ngn qun u, khng c
ba tm, nn Ngh, nn quai thao v.v. c s dng thng xuyn vo
i khn vung. Khc vi ph n ng Ngoi, ti Trung k, Nam k,
u th k XX.
n b bi tc bt khn vung, khng vn khn nh ngi Bc , n

(2)
b ng Trong a u trn vi bi tc, hoc bt u bng mt khn

vung gp cho i, buc nt xung di cm(3).
Ngoi ra, ngi cao tui thi L
Nguyn cn i mt loi m, gi l m Ni,
vn l i ca gii tng l. Vit Nam
t in nm 1954 nh ngha: M Ni, m
ca ng gi i, pha sau c dim che kn
c tai v gy. Loi m ny ngay t thi L
Trung Hng c Alexandre de Rhodes
ghi nhn: M Ni, m ca cc v s [] M
che tai di ti vai. Nhng ngi khc cng
dng m ny trong tri lnh.(4)
V nn i, Phan K Bnh cho bit
n ng thng i nn da, nn sn, nn
lng; n b thng i nn b, nn lng
cho(5). Nht Thanh gii thch: Nn an
1. t l qu thi. Tr.223.
2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr.324.
4. T in Vit - B - La. Tr. 171.
Ph n thi Nguyn vn tc ui
g bng la trng, i nn Ngh,
mc ym trng, o nm thn c
ng ci khuy.
Mt gia nh thng lu Hu. (BAVH).
LI KT
Trc khi c s phn nh nghim ngt v a chnh tr, cc cng

ng dn c chung sng trn cng khu vc a l thng c s giao lu,
chia s, nh hng ln nhau v ngn ng, phong tc v.v., mt cch t
nhin. Vi tnh cht hn dung, vic xc nh phn li thun chng ca
bt k nn vn ha no cng cn nhiu thi gian v nhng chng l khoa
hc lin ngnh.
Vn minh Trung Quc khng t nhin c sn; dung np trong
chc chn c khng t thnh t vn ha mang ngun gc ng Di, Bch
Vit. Song k t khi b my chnh quyn phong kin Trung Quc hnh
thnh, i km vi chnh sch ng ha dng H bin di, vn minh
Trung Quc tng bc thm nhp v gy nh hng su rng ti cc
vng t, quc gia xung quanh n, trong c Vit Nam, Triu Tin v
Nht Bn. Trong khi Nht Bn vi v tr a l quc o, nhiu ln phi
cc on khin ng s ch ng hc tp, du nhp vn minh ng,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li c quc th gn lin vi i lc Trung Quc,
u tng hng chu nhng chnh sch ng ha vn ha. Sau khi ginh
c c lp, vi quan nim vn minh Trung Quc l thc o tin b,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li nhiu ln ch ng m phng in chng
vn hin ca triu nh Trung Quc. Chnh v vy, trong nhiu trng
hp, nhng nt vn ha tng nh ch c Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht
Bn li thng tm thy s tng ng hoc tng cn ca n ti Trung
Quc.
Khong 100 nm tr li y, sau khi ch ngha quc gia, t tng
dn tc c dp ln mnh, Nht Bn tha nhn v t ho cho rng,
h hc tp vn minh Trung Hoa, ng thi y ln mt tm cao mi,
cn Hn Quc v Vit Nam li din ra cc cuc tranh ci v vn bn
quyn ca cc thnh t vn ha vn c coi l c ngun gc Trung
Hoa. C th im qua vic ng Kim nh, H Vn Thy chng minh
Nho gio mang ngun gc Vit, chn ni Thi Sn tng l a bn c

tr ca dn tc Vit, Kinh Dch l pht minh ca ngi Lc Vit v.v.,
tng t trng hp ng Ban Mun Ki, Kang Sang Won chng minh ch
Hn l pht minh ca ngi Hn Quc, sau dy ln mt lot cc bi
vit tuyn b ngi Hn l ch th sng to ra ng y, Kinh Dch, la
bn, thm ch Khng T, Tn Trung Sn l ngi Hn Quc v.v. Nhng
nghin cu c s dng ny, u chu s chi phi ca tinh thn dn tc,
cn nng tnh t bin, suy din, thiu chng c khoa hc xc tn. Bn
cnh , ng gc trung tm soi chiu cc nc xung quanh,
khng t hc gi Trung Quc li c tm thi, ging iu ca nc ln, coi
vn ha Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht Bn ch n gin l s khc x ca
vn minh Trung Hoa, thiu ci nhn tn trng, khch quan i vi vn
ha, lch s ca cc quc gia ny. y l hai thi cc oan trong vic
nghin cu, i snh vn ha, cn c nhn nhn v ph bnh mt cch
nghim tc.
c xc nh gii hn nghin cu nm trong giai on 1009 - 1945,
giai on t nhiu cn s liu, hin vt n chng, Ngn nm o m th
hin mt gc nhn lch s, t tng, m thut Vit Nam thng qua dng
chy bin thin ca vn ha trang phc; ng thi lm r nhng im
tng ng v khc bit gia trang phc Vit Nam so vi trang phc ca
cc nc ng vn, c bit l Trung Quc. T kt qu nghin cu ny,
cch n mc, li sng ca ngi Vit trong khong 1000 nm tr li y
bc u sng t. y s l tin cho vic nghin cu phong tc, li
sng ca ngi Vit trong qu kh xa xa hn, nhm tng bc tm ra
ci li bn sc trong vn ha Vit Nam.
Mi thi u c gi tr quan, thm m quan ring. Mi li khen
ch, nh gi ch mang tnh nht thi. Cun sach bn c cm trn tay
c vit nn bng s tn trong s tht cua ngan nm ao mu ngi Vit,
khng c nh gi ng sai, hay d. Vi t cch l tc gi, ti hy vng
bn c c ci nhn cng tm, bnh tnh i vi vn ha trang phc Vit
Nam ni ring, vn ha cung nh Vit Nam ni chung, c bit i vi
nhng thnh t vn ha Trung Hoa dung cha trong vn ha Vit.
H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013.
Trn Quang c
TRANG PHC THI L TRUNG HNG (1533-1789)

187
Rng v K ln thi L Trung Hng (Cha Bt Thp, Bc

Ninh; BTLSVN; in Knh Thin, H Ni).
Nm 1527, nh L s sp sau s kin Mc ng Dung ph trut

ngi vua, t xng hong . Su nm sau, nm 1533, tng Nguyn Kim
a con chu nh L ln ngi, tc vua L Trang Tng, m u triu i L
Trung Hng, ct c ti Thanh Ha. Cuc chin L - Mc din ra trong ngt
60 nm, n nm 1592, vi s ph t c lc ca cc tng Nguyn Kim,
Trnh Kim, Trnh Tng, vua L cui cng cng tr v thnh Thng Long,
ni li c nghip vng. Song th lc ca tp on cha Trnh ngy
cng ln mnh. Bnh An Vng Trnh Tng h st v bc t cc v vua
chng i nh L Anh Tng, L Knh Tng, thao tng triu nh, khin
cc vua L t nm 1619 tr v sau ch cn li h v, m ra thi k vua L cha Trnh ko di hn 200 nm trong tin trnh lch s Vit Nam.
T na cui thi Trung Hng, cha Trnh ln lt t ra cc c
quan quyn lc dnh ring cho ph cha, trn thc t c chc nng
nhim v tng ng vi cc ban b c sn ca triu nh vua L. Vic
lm ny thc cht nhm tp trung quyn lc vo tay cha, song li khin
b my quan li ca triu nh L - Trnh thm rc ri v cng knh.
Theo , quy ch nghi l dnh cho cha ngy cng c xu hng ln vt,
cn quy ch dnh cho vua li b loi b dn dn. Phan Huy Ch cho bit,
L b ph cha tuy cha dm ngang hng vi nh vua, nhng qun
lnh kh gii trn thc t qu nh vua [] Bui quc s (u thi L) i
gi ca nh vua c nm loi xe, v sau dn dn ph b.(1) Cng chnh v
vy, quy ch nghi l, phm phc dnh cho b quan khi vo chu vua v
hu cha c quy nh ht sc phin phc.
Thi L Trung Hng c hai mc thi gian quan trng xc lp ch
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - vng d v chi ch - Vng ph l b. Nguyn vn:

[]
188
y quan phm phc l nm 1661 v nm 1721 din ra vo thi vua L Thn
bng Cn Min, v mc d ngy thng th
Tng v vua L D Tng. Trong , quy ch nm 1661 phn ln k tha
lc ca cha Trnh c ln t vua L, song
quy ch nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng. Nm 1718, tham tng Nguyn
vo l t Giao, l t thing ling bc nht i
Cng Hng sang nh Thanh tm in chng c ca nh Minh v nh li
vi cc triu i phong kin - qun ch, uy
ch y phc. K t nm 1721, o m ca triu nh nc Vit ni chung,
quyn ca vua L vn l ln nht. Hay ni
triu nh nh L ni ring, chu nh hng kh ln t quy ch o m ca
nh Cng mc: Nh L t thi Trung Hng
Trung Quc giai on cui Minh u Thanh.
v sau, kim Thi A nm ngc, k di ln

quyn, ngi trn tht th, t y v sau, l
ngha vua ti mt sch. Duy c l Nam Giao
t tri l danh phn tn ti vn cn [] y l
Vua L (S.Baron, 1683. T liu
cc cng ty ng n).
l tn nghim nht, long trng nht.(1)

i vi L phc t Giao ca vua L cha
Trnh, Loi ch ghi nhn: T thi Trung
Hng v sau, vo cc bui i l nh ln ngi, tin tn, ban chiu, hong

thng u i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo, eo ai ngc. L t Giao
1. Hoa vn rng thu trn ngc Long bo ca vua Minh Vn Lch, khai qut ti nh Lng, Bc
Kinh; 2. Khn ph mt vua L D Tng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 3. Khn ph mt ca vua
Minh (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).
mc o m mu huyn (en huyn), n nh i Th thay o, li i m
I. TRANG PHC VUA, CHA
Giao, tin tn, mc o bo ta (t bo), i m
1. Triu phc
Thi Trung Hng, vua L ch c coi l biu tng vng quyn
ca dng di vng, ch c h v, khng c thc quyn. Khng t quy
ch l nghi dnh cho thin t thi L s dn b loi b. Trong , cc
vua L Trung Hng p dng Thng phc ca vua L s lm L phc v
Triu phc, ph b quy ch Cn Min trong dp t Giao. iu ny tuy
b ngoi ch l s thay i v o m, song thc cht l s thay i v t
tng cng nh t thi ca vng. Chnh Phan Huy Ch nhn nh:
T thi Trung Hng v sau, vo cc dp i l, hong thng ch i m
Xung Thin. Trm ngh [] kiu dng m Xung Thin so vi m Phc
Xung Thin, mc Hong bo ng nh nghi

l [] Cha thng vo cc dp i l nh t
Xung Thin, eo ai ngc.(2) Cng mc cng
ghi nhn: Vua mc Huyn bo, cng vi on
L b, Php gi, Nh nhc t ca i Hng
(ca Nam thnh) i ra, n in Canh Phc ngoi
n t th i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo,

tht ai ngc, n in Chiu S hnh l. Cha
Trnh v b quan vn v theo hu l bi theo
nghi thc(3).
Qua nhn nh ca Loi ch v Cng
Tng quc cng Trnh Tng

(trinhtocgiapha.com).
mc, c th thy vua L, cha Trnh vo cc dp i l nh l t Giao,
u khng qu khc bit. Vn sc khng y th th cch khng tn

nghim. Bc vng gi t nh l nghi th phi khi phc quy ch Cn
Min. Khng T ni mc Cn Min ca nh Chu. Thc l php thc cho
mun i vy.(1) Mc d Triu phc Xung Thin khng tn nghim
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.32. Nguyn vn:

[]
[]
3. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.32. Nguyn vn: []
189
190
Tranh chn dung tng Phm Tu,

nh Ngoi x Thanh Lit, H Ni
v tng vua L Thn Tng cha
Mt Sn, Thanh Ha. nh: TQ).
l ng c, tin tn, ban chiu sc v.v.
cha Trnh Sm nm 1777: Vng xt theo Chu L,
u i m Xung Thin kt hp vi o
khi t tri mc Cn Min, cc i Hn, ng, Tng,
bo. L phc ca cha Trnh nhn chung
Minh, Thanh khi t Giao v Thi Miu u dng Cn
tng t vua L, ch ly phc sc mu ta
Min, ch c ngy k th hm y i o t lng hiu
phn bit vi vua. Ngoi ra, ring trang
m. Nay xin tham kho phng theo, c hng nm
phc t Giao, trc khi ti nh i Th
n l Tr tch yt in Knh Thin v cc l knh co
thay Hong bo, vua L mc o m mu
ngy thng th dng sa on Bc, mu thin thanh
huyn trn dc ng i t ca i Hng
(mu huyn),
ra. Mu huyn chnh l mu o t tri,
cc tin vng Thi Miu th dng sa on Bc,
tng t mu o Cn theo quy ch c.
mu nguyn thanh (mu xanh en), thu kim tuyn; l k
191
thu kiu Long vn i hi. L sinh nht
Nhng tm Hong bo ca vua L
nht dng sa on Bc, mu thin thanh, thu kim
D Tng (1679-1731) c khai qut vo
tuyn; ch c l k nht ca Hy t (Trnh Cng) dng vi
nm 1958 l nhng hin vt hy hu, em
Thanh Ct mu qu, l sinh nht tin thnh vng
li ci nhn chn thc v din mo trang
Ngh t (Trnh Doanh) th dng vi Thanh Ct mu vi
phc ca vua L, cha Trnh thi k ny.
minh
Qua so snh i chiu mt s hin vt, c
hp s nghi.(1)
(hi sng),
cn l k nht vn dng vi thm
Phc dng Triu phc

ca vua L D Tng.
th nhn thy kiu cch trang tr rng my, sng nc trn tm Long
bo ca vua L D Tng ht sc gn gi vi nhng tm Long bo, Mng
bo ca Trung Quc c nin i cui Minh u Thanh. iu ny thc ra
khng kh l gii, bi l triu L Trung Hng tng ng vi thi Minh
mt Thanh s. Cuc thay triu i i gia nh Minh v nh Thanh din
ra nm 1644, trong khi nm 1718,
tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng i s
Trung Quc, phng tm in hin
c ca nh Minh, v nc t nh
ra phm phc.(1) Cn bo phc ca
cha Trnh, sm nht l nm 1777
mi chun theo tu ngh ca nh
thn s dng loi o thu kiu Long
vn i hi tng t nh o bo ca
vua L. Chng ta bit c iu ny

qua li khi bm ca nh thn vi
An Nam quc vng ch T th sn trang

in trong Thp ton phu to sch, v
cnh vua Thanh ban o m cho vua L
Chiu Thng cng mt s cn thn. Vua
L Chiu Thng trong tranh i m Xung
Thin, mc Hong bo.

. V trung ty bt chp l nm Khang Hy th 21 tc 1682 lc ny ng Nguyn Cng
Hng mi 2 tui, chng ti da theo Cng mc (Q.35) i thnh nm Khang Hy th 57 tc nm 1718.
1. Long bo ca vua L D Tng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: Trnh Bch); 2. Tng bo thi
Thanh (Chc T Trn Phm); 3. Mng bo ca Tn Lng Ngc (1574-1648) (Bo tng Trng
Khnh); 4. Mng bo cui thi Minh (Bo tng T la Hng Chu).
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: ,
,,,
,,,,
,,,
.Nh Thanh ph b Cn Min, nh thn tu li ny lm.
192
2. T phc
lm T phc ca vua cha triu L Trung Hng l loi m lm bng the
a. M Bnh nh
qut sn, thn m v nh m hnh lc lng, dng m khng qu cao.

Phm nh H cng ghi nhn thm rng, nhng nm Chnh Ha, Bo
Thi (1680-1705; 1720-1729), T tng Nguyn Cng Hng tip tc khu
bit cc hng m, m Bnh nh t hng vng cng xung ti li s, ly
chiu cao ca m phn th bc, m ca vua cha dng kim tuyn
phn bit.(1) Vi d liu khan him, chng ta khng bit m Bnh nh
c c nh cc trang sc vng bc hay khng, ch bit ring m Bnh
nh ca vua cha c phn bit vi m Bnh nh ca vng cng, li
M T Phng Bnh nh, m inh T, m t Bnh nh lc lng theo m

t ca Phm nh H. (Phc dng).
s bi cc si kim tuyn. Ngoi ra, trong b T phc ny, m Bnh nh
Phan Huy Ch cho bit: Hong thng [] vo ngy gi Thi

Miu i m Bnh nh, mc o Thanh Ct Cha thng khi yt kin
lu Knh Thin v l sinh nht Thi Miu th i m Bnh nh, mc
o Thanh Ct mu ha minh, ngy gi Thi Miu th mc o Thanh Ct
mu qu; ngy gi cc v i gn th dng m Bnh nh, o vi thm.
(1)
Nh vy vo thi L Trung Hng, m Bnh nh c quy nh l loi

m s dng trong cc dp t gi tin , tin vng ca vua L, cha
Trnh, c tnh cht tng t m Thng Thin ca vua Trn v m Xun
Thu ca vua Nguyn.
Kho v quy ch m Bnh nh, Phm nh H cho bit: inh
Tin Hong ch ra m T Phng Bnh nh, quy ch ca m y vung
m nh m phng [] i sau i thnh kiu lc lng, h phn trn
xung, lm bng the qut sn, y l m t, gi l m Bnh nh; li bin
dng vung thnh dng trn, b dng thng thnh dng cong, lm m
thng dng khi chu hu, gi l m inh T.(2) Chng ti khng tn
ng quan im ca Phm nh H khi ng cho rng loi m Thng
phc inh T ca b quan thi Trn, m T phc Bnh nh ca vua L
cha Trnh u c ngun gc t m T Phng Bnh nh ca qun i
triu inh. Tuy nhin cch l gii ca ng gip ngi i sau d hnh
dung v kiu dng ca cc loi m ny, theo , m Bnh nh p dng
c kt hp vi o Thanh Ct, loi o kiu trng vt.

b. o Thanh Ct
Theo ghi nhn ca Phan Huy
Ch, vo cc ngy t gi tin , tin
vng, vua L cha Trnh u i m
Bnh nh. Cha Trnh mc o Thanh
Ct vi hai mu c bn l mu ha
minh v mu qu, c khi mc phi
vi o vi thm ty theo tnh cht ca
bui l. Vua L vo ngy gi ti Thi
Miu cng mc o Thanh Ct.
Khi nim Thanh Ct trong Loi
ch, Cng mc, L triu hi in, L
triu chiu lnh thin chnh, V trung
ty bt, Tang thng ngu lc c
chp l ; trong Nht dng thng
Di xe ch gm. Vn ha ng u (nm
3500-3000 tr.CN). (Bo tng H Ni).
GS.TS Hn Vn Khn cho bit: Di xe ch
tm thy kh ph bin trong vn ha Phng
Nguyn (nm 2000-1500 tr.CN) [...]Nh
vy ngh dt vi ph bin trong vn ha
Phng Nguyn. C dn vn ha ny t nht
cng c hai loi vi mc, l vi v cy
v vi dt t si(Vn ha Phng Nguyn).
m c chp l . Ring Nht dng thng m, mc Ct b

(vi ct) c vit theo c hai cch v . Chng ti cho rng ch
ct chp trong Loi ch, Cng mc v.v. l ch gi t, vit thay cho
ch ct l tn mt loi vi. Vo thi L Trung Hng, L Qu n v
Phan Huy Ch u ghi nhn: Tc nc Nam dng vi nhum chm,
sau li nhum nu, cho thm t keo, ly chy p ri phi kh, gi
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: []
[][]
l o Thanh Ct. Bt c quan dn, sang hn u mc, ring dng di
193
194
Tm long bo th ba ca vua L D Tng c kiu

giao lnh l loi o vua mc vo ngy thng.
ngn phn bit.(1) Tuy nhin,
ngoi ngha mu xanh cn c
o Thanh Ct khng ch c mt
ngha mu en(1). Ti phn
mu n nht, chnh Phan Huy
Tang bin trong V trung ty
Ch, L Qu n v c Phm
bt, Phm nh H ghi: o
nh H u nht tr nhn nh
Thanh Ct, hi gim sc ha
loi o ny c ba mu l mu ha
minh, gi l mu sng, cng
minh, mu vi minh v mu qu.
tc l mu qu, nhng hi
Ring Phm nh H cn ni r,
khc mt cht.(2) Nh vy,
theo l c, o Thanh Ct coi mu
vi t liu hin c, chng ti
ha minh l hn c, mu vi minh
cho rng Thanh Ct vn l
195
Chn dung cha Trnh Giang, Trnh Sm v Trnh Bng

(Gia ph h Trnh).
km hn, ngi thp km dng mu qu, tc gi l o mu sng. Nu
mt loi vi ct, sau khi tri qua cc cng on nhum mu, gia keo,
gp quc tang th vng cng khanh s u mc mu qu. By gi khng
p nn, phi kh th c mu xanh en. Ngoi ra, loi vi ny cn c
c ngi sang ngi hn u mc mu qu c, cn mu ha minh v
nhum thnh cc mu ha minh, vi minh v mu qu. Trong , mu
mu vi minh th cho l qu kch, khng dng na. C iu dng nh
qu cn c gi l mu sng, mu ha minh v mu vi minh cng tng
chnh Phm nh H cng mu thun vi cch hiu ca mnh, bi trong
t mu sng, song mu sc sng hn. Phan Huy Ch ch cho bit mu
Nht dng thng m, ng gii thch Thanh Ct l o en .
o t ca cha Trnh, khng cho bit mu o ca vua L. Da vo tnh
(2)
(3)
Th nht, phi khng nh rng, vi ct c ngi Vit ch to
cht t l, c th on rng, o t ca vua L phi l loi o sm mu, gn
v s dng t rt sm. Ngay t thi ng Hn (25-220), sch D vt ch
vi mu xanh en, tng t nh b Huyn bo ng s dng khi t Giao.
ca Dng Phu cho bit: Cy chui, l to nh chiu, thn nh khoai,
Ring kiu o Thanh Ct, chng ti cho rng loi o ny c kiu giao lnh,
em un ln th nh t, c th xe si dt vi, ph n dt thnh loi vi hy
bi nh L Qu n cho bit, y l loi o quan li v dn thng thi
(vi mn, si nh),
khch (vi th, si to), nay l vi ct ca Giao Ch. Sch Nam
L u mc, ng thi cn ni: L phc dng o trc lnh (l tn gi khc ca
Vit Ch ca Thm Hoi Vin (~285) cho bit: Vi chui c ba loi l vi
o giao lnh) ng tay di, hoc may bng vi Thanh Ct, hoc vi thm, hoc
chui, vi trc v vi ct, tuy th mn khc nhau, nhng u cng mt
vi trng ty nghi.(3)
ngun m tn gi khc bit.(5) Vo th k XV, An Nam ch nguyn cng
3. Thng phc
(4)
cho bit: Hai th gai v t chui, c th chp li lm vi, mn nh la

nn, rt hp mc vo ma h. Th hai, trong ting Hn c, ch thanh
(6)
Phan Huy Ch cho bit: T thi Trung Hng v sau, hong thng
[] Thng phc i m Tam Sn, mc o c cc mu xanh, mu huyn
[] Cha thng [] th chnh, triu hi, tip kin qun thn u i
1. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt. Tr.21. Nguyn vn:
(Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Y phc. Nguyn vn:


4. (Trung) D vt ch. Dn theo T dn yu thut trc t sch dn. Tr.179. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) Nam Vit ch. Nguyn vn:

Vi chui cng c dng lm kimono ca ngi Nht.
6. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Th sn. Nguyn vn:
m Tam Sn, o mu ta.(4)

1. C i Hn ng t in. Tr.1251. Cc t thanh ti, t xanh, tc xanh, thc cht ch mi tc en; thanh li,
thanh nhn vi ngha mt xanh, thc cht l mt en; thanh sam, thanh y l o xanh, trn thc t l o mu
en v.v. Vo thi L, Nguyn Cng Bt tng ca ngi vua L Nhn Tng Mu trng nhi thanh bch phn
minh (mt trong m xanh trng r rng), t thanh bch (xanh - trng) y phi c hiu l en trng.
2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Tang bin. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: []
[][]
trong K thut ca ngi An Nam, chng ta c th kim chng c

hnh dng Tam Sn theo quan nim ca ngi xa.
196
M ba bc th hin trn tng cha He Nhai, H Ni; L quan ca Nht Bn: Lp m nn

ging nh chic bnh m hnh ngn ni, gn vo lp m ngoi hnh trn, gi l m Tam Sn,
c lm bng the qut sn en.(Wikipedia); M Tam Sn ca thi gim nh Minh (Tam ti
hi).
Nh chng ti cp, mt s loi m c tn hnh tng nh

Phong Cn (m gi), Lng Cn (m mt), Tam Sn Mo (m ba ngn
ni) v.v. xut hin trong khi cc nc s dng ch Hn, tuy c tn gi
tng ng, song kiu dng hon ton khc bit. Xt ring trng hp
m Tam Sn, hin nhin, m Tam Sn ca vua L cha Trnh khng th
l m Tam Sn ca thi gim nh Minh v cng khng th l m Tam
Sn ca cc quan Nht Bn thi Nara (710-794). TS. on Th Tnh, tc
gi cun Trang phc Thng Long H Ni cho rng loi m c hnh dng
ba bc thang th hin trn pho tng tng
truyn l tng vua L Hy Tng th ti cha
He Nhai (H Ni) l m Tam Sn. Song theo
quan im ca chng ti, mt khi m c
nh danh l Tam Sn, kiu dng m hoc mt
b phn kt cu ca m phi c hnh dng ba
ngn ni nh ch Sn, tng t cc dng
m cng tn ca Nht Bn v Trung Quc.
Trong khi L Qu n ghi nhn ngi x
Qung Xuyn, Tr Vinh gii lm m m v, c
th dng cc trang sc, hoa vn rng phng,
vn th, tam sn, bt bo lm o cn, chng
t ng thi khi nim Tam Sn cn ch mt
Ci ym hnh tam sn; Tam sn

(K thut ca Ngi An Nam).
loi trang sc trn m . Qua mt s hnh v

(1)
Phc dng trang phc m Tam Sn ca cha Trnh (Tranh: TQ); tng cha Trnh
Sm (c thuyt cho l Trnh Giang) ti cha Kim Lin, H Ni.
Kho st mt s pho tng vua L, cha Trnh c nin i th k

XVII, XVIII, chng ti nhn thy pho tng cha Trnh ti cha Kim Lin
(H Ni) i mt loi m c nhng mi hnh my un cong chp m,
1. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc - Vt sn phong tc. Nguyn vn:
ngc chu nh dc cc vin lng, tng t quy ch m Quyn Vn

Thng Thin ca hong triu Trn v loi m th hin trn cc pho
197
198
tng vua Mc, c bit phi k n trang sc hnh Tam sn nh gia
vua L, cha Trnh thng i mt loi m thn trn, nh phng, trn
trn m. Chng ti cho rng loi m ny mi l m Tam Sn.
m sc trang sc bng vng. Theo m t ca Phm nh H, loi m ny

dng trn, nh phng, dt bng lng ui nga, li nm vng sc ln
trn m phn bit ng cp, l loi m vua L, cha Trnh i nhng
khi nhn h, hong t v vng t thng i khi vo hu th s.(1)
Lnh cha Hi An (ch cha Nguyn Phc Nguyn) v triu thn trong Chu n thuyn hi quyn
do ngi Nht Bn v nm 1609.
V o mc, kt hp mt s pho tng thi L Trung Hng vi

cc hnh v trong Chu n thuyn hi quyn, c th thy vo ngy
thng, thm ch vo nhng bui thit Thng triu, li trang phc
o c trn mc lt trong, o giao lnh mc khoc ngoi kh thnh
hnh. y cng l hai dng trang phc ph bin vo thi L.
QUY NH V TRANG PHC CA VUA L CHA TRNH
(theo Loi ch)
Ngoi ra theo ghi nhn ca Phan Huy Ch, vo cc bui Thng

triu, vua L i m Tam Sn, mc o mu xanh hoc mu huyn, cha
Trnh cng i m Tam Sn, song ch mc o bo mu ta. i vi kiu
Vua L
dng o bo Thng phc ca vua L cha Trnh, Phan Huy Ch khng

miu t c th, song da vo pho tng cha Trnh th ti cha Kim
Lin, chng ti ng rng nhng loi o ny u c kiu dng giao lnh.
L t Giao, tin tn,

ban chiu
Xung Thin
Hong bo,
ai ngc
(t Giao:
Huyn bo)
Xung
Thin
T bo,
ai ngc
Ngy k Thi Miu
Bnh nh
Thanh Ct
Bnh
nh
Thanh
Ct
mu qu
Ngy gi cc v tin
vng i gn
Bnh
nh
o vi
thm
Ngy sinh nht Thi

Miu v ngy yt lu
Knh Thin
Bnh
nh
Thanh
Ct
mu ha
minh
Tam Sn
T bo
Ring pho tng Quc cng Trnh Tng th ti cha Din Khnh li mc
o bo nh B t K ln, i m Phc u c hai cnh chun hi choi
ln pha trn (dng m ny d gy lm tng l m Xung Thin, song
Cha Trnh
thc cht vn l m Phc u). Xt theo phm trt, cha Trnh thuc
hng vng, B t dnh cho tc Vng theo quy ch ca nh L l B
t K ln. Theo chng ti, c th vo thi k u triu L Trung Hng,
cha Trnh mc B phc, v sau, khi nghi l dnh cho cha ngy cng
c xu hng ngang hng vi vua L, cha Trnh cng dn thay i trang
phc. Trng hp nh thn xin cha Trnh i Bo phc thnh dng
o bo thu Long vn i hi vo nm 1777 l mt v d in hnh. Tuy
nhin, chng ta cng cn thn trng vi hnh thc trang phc m Xung
Thin, B phc th hin trn cc pho tng thng ng thn, bi l
Thng triu phc

(Th chnh, triu hi,
gp b ti nhng khi
nhn h)
Tam Sn
Thanh bo (bo
xanh), Huyn
bo (bo en)
m tp tc tng thi L Trung Hng v thi Nguyn, nh L Qu n

ghi nhn trong Kin vn tiu lc: B t, trung ng thn dng hnh K
ln, thng ng thn dng hnh Long m.
4. Tin phc
Nhng khi khng phi thit triu, khc vi vua L ch bi tc ci
trm vng, vua Trn i m ng Cn hoc dng la trng bc tc,

. Phm nh H quy loi m vin th, bnh nh (thn
trn, nh phng) vo mt trong ba kiu m inh T, cch phn chia nh vy khng hp l.
199
dng mu xanh. T hi Trung Hng tr v sau, Trnh Tng chuyn gi

200
chnh quyn, vn v trm quan vo hu ph cha u dng m Lng

QUY CH PHM PHC CA B QUAN
Sa v o thm, cn m o tng cp bc cha c quy ch nht nh. n
T THI L S N THI L TRUNG HNG
nay nh r: m o ca hong thn, vng t, vn v b quan dng khi

vo chu vua v khi vo hu ph cha
Triu phc (L s):

Lng quan chu phc
Cng phc (L s): Phc
u, Bo phc, ai
Thng phc (L s):
Sa, B phc, ai
Triu phc (Trung Hng):

Phc u, B phc, ai
Triu phc (Hin Tng):
Phc u, B phc, ai
Thng phc (Hin
Tng): Sa, B phc, ai
Thng phc, Th phc

(Trung Hng): Sa,
Thanh Ct, thao
Th phc 2 (Trung Hng):
Lng Cn, Sa, Yn V
(chng ti gi l Th phc),
dng m
Sa, o Thanh Ct. Thng phc v hnh nghi u c cp bc khc

nhau.(1) Vo thi L s, trang phc ca b quan c phn lm ba loi:
Triu phc Lng quan, Thng phc Sa vi B phc v Cng phc
Phc u vi o bo trn. n thi vua Hin Tng, m Phc u c
kt hp vi B phc, song song vi vic hp nht quy ch Cng phc v
Triu phc. T thi L Trung Hng tnh ti trc thi im nm 1721,
trang phc ca b quan c phn lm hai loi: Triu phc Phc u
vi B phc, Thng phc v Th phc Sa vi o Thanh Ct.
Quy ch trang phc ca b quan triu L

Trung Hng c ba t sa i ln lt din ra
vo cc nm 1661, 1721 v 1725. Nm 1661,
trn c s quy ch nm 1500 thi L s, triu
L Trung Hng t nh li quy ch Triu
phc, Thng phc, ng thi nh r quy
ch Th phc dnh khi vo hu ti ph cha.
Nm 1721, tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng da
vo in chng c ca nh Minh nh li
quy ch o m, ni dung ch yu ca t sa
i ny l nhm vo trang phc chu cha Th phc. Nm 1725, quy ch Triu phc ca
b quan c i li, c bn quay v quy ch
c nh ra t nm 1500 thi L s.
Quy nh phm phc ca b quan nh
L Trung Hng vo nm 1661 c Cng
Quan vn i m Bnh nh,
quan v i m inh T (a La)
trong tranh th vua L Nam
(nin i th k XVIII). Trang
phc b quan th hin trong tranh
trn thc t l Th phc ca b
quan triu L Trung Hng.
mc cho bit: u nin hiu Cnh Thng

(nm 1500), nh Triu phc: cc tc cng
trong hong thn v cc quan t tam phm
tr ln, m dng m Phc u, o dng mu
The Bova or King of Tonqueen when he gives audience. (S. Baron, 1683) Bui thit triu ca vua L
Hy Tng (Dn theo T liu cc Cng ty ng n, H Lan v Anh v K Ch - ng Ngoi TK17). Cc
quan u i chn t. Theo cha Marini, vo thi L Trung Hng, tt c cc quan, k c hong t, h vo
cung chu vua u phi i chn t, nu i giy dp s b coi l c ti, ch c vua i hi.
ta; t, ng phm v hng v dng nn sn
trng, v hng vn dng m Phc u, o dng mu lc; t lc phm tr

xung v hng v dng nn sn son, v hng vn dng m Phc u, o
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: []
201
1. Triu phc
202
Qua bc v vua L thit triu nm 1683, c th thy vua L mc
Lc
phm
Bch
nhn
ai tc
hng vin
thau bc
on thm
Vn
nhn
ai k lam
hng
Bch
nhn
ai tc
hng
vin thau
bc on
thm
Tht
phm
Bch
nhn
ai tc
hng vin
thau bc
on thm
Bch
Hc
ai tc
hng
Bch
nhn
ai tc
hng
vin thau
bc on
thm
Bt
phm,
cu
phm
Bch
nhn
ai tc
hng vin
thau bc
on thm
Tiu
Liu
ai sng
tru sc
ng thau
Bch
nhn
ai tc
hng
vin thau
bc on
thm
Triu phc Xung Thin - Hong bo, b quan phn ln mc Triu phc
Phc u - B Phc, th v cm nghi trng mc m o lm t cht liu
a La. Tang thng ngu lc chp: o m i triu: m Phc u, B
phc, mu l trn ht, th n l mu xanh v mu huyn.
(1)
Triu
phc ca triu nh L Trung Hng k tha ch Triu phc t nh

t thi vua L Hin Tng, tuy nhin trong sut thi Trung Hng, ch
phm phc ca b quan vn c ba ln sa i nh ni. Xt ring quy
ch Triu phc, ni dung chnh ca ba cuc thay i ny ch yu nm
quy ch ai v B t.
SO SNH QUY CH B T V AI
Phm
cp
NM 1500, 1661 V 1725

(theo Cng mc)
Phm
cp
Quan vn 1500
Quan vn 1661
Quan vn 1725
B t
ai
B t
ai
B t
ai
Nht
phm
Tin
hc
ai sng t
sc bc
Tin
hc
ai sng t
sc bc
Tin
hc
ai sng
t sc bc
bc lnh l
Nh
phm
Tin
hc
ai sng t
sc bc
Tin
hc
ai sng t
sc bc
Tin
hc
ai sng
t sc bc
bc lnh l
Tam
phm
Cm k
T
phm
Ng
phm
ai i mi
sc bc bc
l
Cm k
Khng
tc
ai i mi
sc thau
bc l
Vn
nhn
ai i mi
sc thau
bc l
ai i
mi sc
bc
Quan v 1500
Quan v 1661
Quan v 1725
B t
ai
B t
ai
B t
ai
Nht
phm
S t
ai sng t
sc bc
S t
ai sng t
sc bc
Bch
trch
ai sng
t sc bc
bc lnh l
Nh
phm
S t
ai sng t
sc bc
-S t
-Tng
-ai i
mi
-Dy thao
n
Bch
trch
ai sng
t sc bc
bc lnh l
Tam
phm
Bch
trch
ai i mi
sc bc bc
l
Tng
Dy thao
n
S t
ai i
mi sc
bc
T
phm
ai i mi
sc thau
bc l
Tng
Dy thao
n
Tht di
ai mu
ta
Ng
phm
Bo
ai i mi
sc thau
bc l
Dy thao
n
Bo
Tht di
ai mu
ta
ai i
mi
Cm k
Khng
tc
ai i
mi
Khng
tc
ai i
mi sc
thau bc
on thm
Lc
phm
Tng
Dy thao
n
Tng
Khng
tc
ai i
mi
Vn
nhn
ai i
mi sc
thau bc
on thm
ai tc
hng vin
thau bc
on thm
Tht di
ai mu
xanh
Tht
phm
Tng
ai tc
hng vin
thau bc
on thm
Dy thao
n
Tng
Tht di
ai mu
xanh
1. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc. Tr.10-11. Nguyn vn:
203
bng vng, b quan vn v nht, nh, tam phm
1.1. Dng ng
204
Tng Qun cng Nguyn Th M th k XVII

(BTMTVN) v tng Trn Nguyn n th k
XVII (Cn Sn. T in Vn hc), xa tc, i m
Phc u c trang sc, c th l trang sc Dng
ng, mc B phc.
Nh chng ti cp,
sc bc, quan vn t phm tr xung dng m
Dng ng vn l m L
Phc u khng trang sc. T thng 11 nm 1725,
phc ca Tng quan triu Trn.
m Phc u dnh cho quan vn t, ng phm
Vo thi L Trung Hng, m
c php dng trang sc bng ng thau, quan
Dng ng c p dng
vn lc phm tr xung dng m Phc u trn,
lm m Triu phc ca hong
khng c trang sc(1).
thi t, vng th t, hong t
M Phc u thi L v thi Nguyn, xt v
v vng t c ban tc quc
kiu dng u rt gn gi vi m Sa, vy nn Hi
cng. Loi m ny c hnh dng
in triu Nguyn tng gi m Phc u l m
tng t m Phc u, ch khc
Sa(2). Trn tu s nc Triu Tin l Min Am nm
trang sc Dng ng v
1691 m t trang phc quan nh L: H i m
phn hu sn nh cao.
sa mu en, dng bc trng lm hc cm cnh
Xt ring trang phc ca hong thi t v vng thi t, Loi ch cho

bit: Hong thi t mc o xanh, i m Dng ng, tc m Phc
u, pha sau hi cao, khng tham d ban chu. Vng th t ng u
ban chu, i m Dng ng, hai cnh pha sau dt vng, Triu phc
dng mu ta, B t K ln dt bng kim tuyn,
chun, mc o gm thu hoa vn, c trn.(3)

Nm 1713, gp quan nh L ti Bc Kinh, s thn
Triu Tin Han Tae Dong m t: M mu en, o
205
Quan triu L Trung Hng

xa tc, i m Phc
u trn (tc m Sa).
(Nhng khu truyn gio
dn theo Lch s truyn
gio Vit Nam).
c trn, phm phc, ai tht i nh quy ch nc ta. Ring vic xa

tc ra sau ri i m l k l m thi.(4) S thn Seo Ho Su cng ni: H
ai dng ai k thch nhiu vng.(1) Triu phc
bi tc (phn cn li) bung xa, i m Sa, vn o bo ng tay rng,
ca hong t v vng t c phong tc quc
sc vng bc m v ai, i ng da en.(5) Tng t l m t ca Hong
cng cng l m Dng ng kt hp vi B
Thanh chc cng : Quan vn nc An Nam i m the, mc Triu
phc K ln mu ta, ai k thch bc vng, ma
phc, tht ai, bung di thn, chn i hia da. Quan v nc An Nam
xun h th dng the Bc, ma thu ng th dng
i m the nh bng, mc Triu phc, tht ai, hia lm bng da en,
on Bc . S khc bit v phm phc gia cc
mi hia nhn khc vi quan vn.(6)
(2)
v hong t, vng t nm quy ch trang sc
Tuy nhin, khc nhng quy nh rch ri v trang sc sc m nh
trn m Dng ng v cht liu B t.
bc sn, kha gin, ngch tng, nhiu tuyn thi Nguyn, s liu thi
1.2. Phc u
Trc nm 1725, quy ch m Phc u ca
b quan triu L Trung Hng vn k tha quy
ch nm 1500 thi vua Hin Tng, tc hong
thn v vng cng u c dng trang sc m
B t K ln bng kim tuyn

v B t K ln thng thi
Minh. (Khng ph).
(L triu hi in k hiu A.257 chp tng t).

2. (Vit) L triu thin chnh in l. Dn theo Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
(L triu hi in k hiu A.257 chp
tng t).
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:,.[],

[]
2. Xin xem phn kho v m Gii Tri ngay sau y.
3. (Hn) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc. Mc ngy 5 thng 12 nm Tc Tng th 17. Nguyn vn:
4. (Hn) Lng th Yn hnh lc. Tr.233. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i Minh y quan kim h ti, ng trong
S hc nguyt san. K 10. 2005. Nguyn vn:
5. (Hn) Yn hnh k - Q.2. Tr.459. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i Minh y quan kim h ti. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) Hong Thanh chc cng . Nguyn vn:
206
L hu nh khng cp n cc trang sc trn
(Trn m cao ca ngi hin s tun t ci nhnh hoa vua ban). Vo thi
m Phc u. Vn liu duy nht lin quan n
L Trung Hng, tng c vic Nguyn Khn tin s, c ban yn L
loi trang sc ny l quy nh o m dnh cho
b ng, quan T Nguyn Nghim ang lm Th lang b L, t tay
tin s chp L triu hi in, trong cp
gi bng hoa m cho con, ng thi thng truyn tng.(1) Vic ban
n mt th trang sc l Tam sn b dip,
ng hoa ci m cho cc tin s cng l quy ch chung ca nh Tng,
chng ti hiu l l b sp thnh hnh tam
Minh v Triu Tin, tuy nhin cung cch ca mi nc l ring bit.
sn. Loi trang sc ny c l c nh trn trn

m ging nh trang sc nh trn m tng
Tng Thi gim Trnh ng ng (Hi Dng).
L triu hi in cho bit: Hng tam khi,
hong gip, mi vin mt chic m Phc u
c lng nh (tc hai dim che tai(1) - TQ ch), l b
hnh tam sn bng ng thau [] ng tin
s cng nh vy, (m) ch c lng nh. Ngoi
(2)
trang sc l b Tam sn, m Phc u ca

hng tam khi, hong gip v tin s thi Trung
Hng cn c hai dim r che tai, tng t m
1. B T Bch Nhn trn

tng cha Vnh Nghim, Bc
Giang, th k XVIII; 2. B T
S T trn tng cha B
, Bc Giang, th k XVIII.
(nh: TQ).
ca to s ban v. Vy nn T in Vit - B - La nh ngha: M u cn

(ch Phc u cn):
lng c tai, cc tin s

dng.(3)
Ngoi ra, cc
v tam khi, hong
gip, tin s triu L
Trung Hng v triu
1.Ng hoa trn m ca Tin s Triu Tin (Trang phc ca chng ta); 2. ng Thm hoa cm
cnh hoa (K thut ca ngi An Nam); 3. Tin s thi Nguyn. (nh Albert Kahn).
Quy ch Hoa bc ci m:
L triu Hi in (K hiu A.52) cho bit cnh hoa bc ci m ca triu Trung Hng c
quy nh: Trng nguyn: Hoa bc 1 cnh 9 nhnh nng 9 tin; Bng nhn: Hoa bc 1
cnh 8 nhnh nng 8 tin. Thm hoa: Hoa bc 1 cnh 7 nhnh nng 7 tin. Hong gip:
Hoa bc 1 cnh 6 nhnh nng 6 tin. ng Tin s: Hoa bc 1 cnh 5 nhnh nng 5 tin.
Bia Vn Miu s 71 tc nm 1748 cho bit, cc tin s cp c ban o bo mu lam,
ai tc hng, yn qunh, hoa bc.
Quc s di bin cho bit: Ngy mng 9, thng 4, nm 1822 thi vua Minh Mnh, nhng
tin s thi nh i sch trng th c ban cho ci mt a hoa qunh.
Nguyn sau khi ng

danh bng vng cn
1.3. Cc loi m khc
c ci mt cnh
Ngoi m Phc u p dng ph bin cho vn v b quan, trong
hoa bc ln m Phc
quy ch Triu phc L Trung Hng cn xut hin nhng loi m nh m
u. Quy ch ban
Sa, Lng Cn, Gii Tri, Thanh Ct v cc loi nn nh nn sn bc
tng ng hoa xut hin vo thi Trn. Trn Nguyn n tng miu
chp nh hng mao, nn sn son chp nh hng mao. M Thanh Ct
Triu phc m Phc u B phc. 1. Tng cha ng Neo

(Hi Dng); 2. Tng Thi gim Trnh ng ng (Lc s M
thut Vit Nam); 3. Triu phc m Phc u B phc ca quan
Lc phm triu Nguyn.
t nhng ngi tin s thi Trn Tun s nga quan sp ng hoa

1.
2.
3.
4.
(4)
v cc loi nn sn l trang phc ca quan v, chng ti s trnh by ti
Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.122.

(Vit) L triu hi in. Nguyn vn: ,
T in Vit - B - La. Tr. 53.
Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.115. Nguyn vn: (Bi th mang tn
Phng lnh ha vn bi th "Ban yn cho nhng ngi tin s in Quan c ca

nh vua.
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Tin in Nguyn tc. Nguyn vn:
207
208
M Sa c ch en t ni chnh gia phn

hu sn. (Chn dung Nhan Hi. Vn Miu
Quc T Gim H Ni; Chn dung quan Triu
Tin. Bo tng Quc gia Seoul). (nh: TQ).
phn kho v trang phc qun i.
vy, m Sa thi L Trung Hng c
M Sa l loi m Thng phc v
ba loi: Sa c ch en t ni, Sa
Th phc ca b quan, chng ti s
thng thng v Sa n dng. Trong
trnh by quy ch c th ti phn
, m Sa c ch en t ni v m
sau. Di y l mt s ghi chp
Sa thng thng kt hp vi B phc,
lin quan ti cc loi m Sa, Gii
ring m Sa n dng kt hp vi o
Tri, Lng Cn p dng lm Triu
Thanh Ct.
phc cho cc quan.

- Triu phc Sa : L
triu chiu lnh thin chnh chp
quy ch Triu phc nm 1661 cho bit: Hong t, vng t c phong

tc qun cng i m Sa c ch en t ni, triu phc dng mu ,
trc lnh, B t hnh H bo, dy thao kp c ngc, eo kim. Cc chc cai
qun, cai i c tc qun cng i m Sa, triu phc dng mu ,
trc lnh, B t hnh voi, dy thao kp, eo kim [] Con chu ca quan
vn c tp m, khi vo chu nhn
Thanh Ct c lt.
(1)
- Triu phc, Thng phc Lng

Cn en : Theo quy ch nm
1661 v nm 1721, hong t, vng t
cha c phong tc khi vo chu
u i m Lng Cn en, mc o the
en(1). Loi m mt ny vo thi vua
L Thnh Tng c a chung n
ni xy ra tnh trng ct trm lng ui
nga cng lm m, khin nm 1467
nhim v i m Sa n dng, o
triu nh phi h lnh cm dt to m

Lng Cn(2). Loi ch cn cho bit mt
Quy ch Triu
209
M Gii Tri ca quan ng s triu

Nguyn (BAVH.1916). Hi in vit:
M th dng m Sa, trn Bc sn
bng bc nh thm hai chic sng bng
bc, gi l m Tri; B t Gii tri thi
Minh. (Cm t vn chng).
phc nm 1721 v c bn tng t
trong nhng quy nh v cht liu to m ca hong thn, vng thn
nh quy ch nm 1661, ngoi ra cn
nm 1720 l m ma xun - ma h dng lng ui nga, ma thu -
quy nh, cc chc trng s, bnh
ma ng dng on mu huyn(3). Chnh v thng c s dng vo
s, thng s, chnh ph t nghi,
ma nng nn loi m ny c nh danh l Lng Cn, tc m mt.
ph hiu y, th c, ging d, v
- Triu phc Gii Tri : Theo quy ch nm 1721, thng
y, tri b, s, tri s, in s, ch
th, ng s, ph ng s, hnh, hin s, gim st ng s cc o v.v.
b, x mc, ngc tha v cc hng

Tng quan, tp lu i m Sa n
dng, o Thanh Ct c lt [] Cc
chc phng ng, gim b
Ni quan)
(trong ngch
i m Sa, o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng c ph hu.(2) Nh
u i m Gii Tri, mc B phc Gii Tri. Cng mc cho bit: Php

Quan vn v An Nam. Hong Thanh chc
cng (Yn hnh lc). Quan vn nc
An Nam i m sa, mc Triu phc, tht
ai, bung di thn, chn i hia da. Quan
v nc An Nam i m sa nh bng, mc
Triu phc, tht ai, hia lm bng da en,
mi hia nhn khc vi quan vn.
1. (Vit) L triu chiu lnh thin chnh. (A.257) Nguyn vn:
; Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
quan u dng Gii Tri (ch m v B t).(4) Gii tri tng truyn l
linh th mt sng, bn tnh ngay thng(5), thng c to hnh tng t
k ln. Ngay t thi Hn, triu nh Trung Quc m phng sng Gii

5. (Trung) D vt ch ch thch: Vng hoang mc ng Bc c loi th, tn l Gii Tri, mt sng, tnh ngay
thng, thy ngi u tng th nhm vo k khng thng m hc, nghe ngi tranh lun th nhm vo k
khng ngay m go. Nguyn vn:
. Hu Hn Th cho bit: M Php quan [] cn gi l m Gii Tri. Gii tri l con d thn,
c th phn bit cong thng. Vua nc S bt c, em v lm m.
210
The Court of the Chova or General of Tonqueen.

(S.Baron, 1683) Ph cha Trnh (T liu cc Cng
ty ng n, H Lan v Anh v K Ch - ng Ngoi
TK17). Nhng ngi trn u c nh s 2 c ch
thch: B quan cc phm t lng tn knh i vi ngi.
C th thy ba loi m chnh th hin trong tranh l m
Sa, m Bnh nh v m inh T.
tri ch ra mt loi m p
mt chic m Gii Tri, hi nh trong khi a nghch, ta thng ly ra
dng cho cc quan thc thi
i, thch nht l m Gii Tri, c cm cng khng c(1), c th thy
php lut, nhm nhn gi
ngoi chic sng mang tnh cht biu tng, kiu dng ca m Gii Tri
nim v lng tri v s cng
v m Phc u thi L cha hn hon ton tng t nh vo thi
bng. Ti Trung Quc, m
Nguyn. Ngoi ra, khc vi Triu phc Gii Tri ca triu Nguyn (m Gii
Gii Tri thnh hnh vo
Tri kt hp vi Mng bo), vo thi L Trung Hng m Gii Tri kt hp vi B
triu Hn, ng, Tng;
phc thu hnh Gii tri, tng t quy ch ca nh Minh. Chnh vua L
triu Minh v triu Thanh
Thnh Tng tng cp dng B t ny trong Thp gii c hn quc
ly hnh Gii tri lm B
ng vn: C k i iu Thin nhn mt, c ngi vn Gii tri ngang
t, ph b quy ch m Gii
ngang. Cch ni vn Gii tri ngang ngang tc l mc bo phc vi
Tri(1).
ming B T hnh Gii tri nh ngang trc ngc.
Ti phn kho trang
2. Thng phc - Th phc
phc b quan thi L chng
u thi Trung Hng, b quan
ti cp, triu Tin L
vn v vo hu ph cha u dng m
v triu L phng quy ch
Lng Sa, o mu thm en, ng cp
m mo ca nh Tng du
cha c quy ch nht nh. n thng 6
nhp ba loi m Tin Hin,
nm 1661, triu nh nh L nh r, khi
iu Thin, Gii Tri. Trn thc t, m Gii Tri thi k ny cng chnh
vo chu vua v hu cha, hong thn,
l m Tin Hin, trn m c nh thm mt chic sng nn gi Gii
vng t, b quan vn v u dng m
Tri. Ti Trung Quc, m Gii Tri b ph b vo thi Minh, song ti Vit
Sa, o Thanh Ct. Nm 1720, triu
Nam, cc triu i L - Nguyn vn s dng biu tng sng gii tri
nh nhc li quy nh, phm khi chp
nh ln m phng theo quy ch c. Vo thi Nguyn, m Gii Tri l
s, hnh l v th s u i m Sa,
m Phc u nh thm mt cp sng bng bc. Hi in triu Nguyn
mc o Thanh Ct, vo hu ph cha
cho bit: Minh Mng nm th 18, xung d: Khoa o l chc gi hin
Trnh cng nh vy.(2) Mt b Thng
php trong triu nh, triu nh u i ngn quan t r phong ha
phc kim Th phc bao gm m
hin php [] M th dng m Sa, trn bc sn bng bc nh thm
Sa, o Thanh Ct, dy thao x ngc, ty
hai chic sng bng bc, gi l m Gii Tri [...] hp vi ngha gii
theo phm trt cao thp m c s phn
tri hc t.(2) Da theo li th ca Nguyn Tri tng v Ng s h Hong
bit.(3) Ngoi ra, y cng l b trang
T tng Nguyn Qun Nho (16381708) mc Thng phc th ti nh th

dng h Nguyn Qun. (nh: Thn
Tun, Hiu ph trng PTTH Nguyn
Qun Nho, Thanh Ha cung cp).
thi L s: M Tri cao cao mt ta st, chng ring yu mai cn yu

tuyt(3), cng li k ca Phm nh H, cha ta tng lm hin st Nam
nh v tun ph Sn Ty, trong trp ct mt chic m Phc u v
1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.49, 50.

[]
3. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.1 - Hong ng s Mai Tuyt hin. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng T thut. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: . (Phm khi

chp s, hnh l v th s u dng o Thanh Ct, m Sa, khi chu ph cha Trnh cng nh vy); (Vit)
Loi ch v Lch triu tp k u c ni dung tng t. Nguyn vn:
,. (Vn v, ni gim chp s hnh l v th s u dng o Thanh Ct, m
Sa, quan vn v phng chu ni cc cng nh vy). Ring i Vit s k tc bin, Mc nm 1720 chp:
Cc quan vn khi vo hu ni cc cng nh vy. (Tr.78)
3. (Vit) Cng mc. Mc thng 11 nm 1725. Nguyn vn:
211
phc Cng s c php mc vo ly cc quan trong trng thi(1),

212
QUY CH TH PHC TRIU L TRUNG HNG
tng t trang phc m Phong Cn - o giao lnh thi Nguyn.

Ngoi ra, vo cui giai on L Trung Hng, trang phc ca b
~1661
1661-1721
1721 ~
M Sa,
o Thanh Ct
- Khi chp s v hnh l:

M Sa, o Thanh Ct
- Khi cha coi chnh s ph:
M Bnh nh, o Thanh Ct.
- Khi cha tip khch cc:
Quan vn: M Lng Cn
Quan v: M Yn V
quan vo hu cha cng c quy nh ht sc phin phc. T nm

1721, thi cha Trnh Cng triu nh c quy nh khi cha coi chnh
s ph, b quan i m Bnh nh, mc o Thanh Ct, song khi cha
M Lng Sa,
o mu thm en
tip khch cc, cc quan vn i m Lng Cn, quan v i m Yn

V(2). Nhng khng t quan li, c bit l cc quan vn v cp thp, qun
lnh v nha li u n vn khng ng quy nh. Trn thc t, cc loi m
Bnh nh, Lng Cn, Yn V, inh T k trn, b quan u c th i
vo ngy thng. Vy nn
Lng Cn v Yn V c
V trung ty bt xp vo
loi trang phc thng th,
th s, song Tang thng
ngu lc li xp vo loi
Quan vn i m Sa o Thanh Ct dng giao lnh trong
Vn quan vinh quy th k XVIII. (Bo tng M thut).
trang phc ngy thng ;

(3)
m Bnh nh c V
trung ty bt xp vo loi m thng nht ca vua quan s th, song

ng thi cng li c xp vo loi trang phc b quan mc khi vo
chu cha(4); m inh T (Thanh Ct, a La) l loi m thng xuyn
c quan vn v cp thp, nha li i vo chu c ph cha ln cung
vua, thm ch qun dn ngy thng cng u c i .
(5)
2.1. M Sa, o Thanh Ct

* M Sa
Tng t quy ch
Triu
phc,
Thng
phc m Sa p dng
cho b quan khi chp s
v khi vo hu ph cha
cng c phn lm ba
loi: m Sa c ch en
t ni, m Sa v m
Sa n dng. Trong
, m Sa l loi m
p dng cho tuyt i a
s b quan vn v, l m
Sa trn theo quy ch
1. (Vit) Lch i danh thn s trng - Ch kh - Nguyn Th Nghi. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Thn l. Nguyn vn: []

[]
3. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng - Quan l. (Vit) Tang
thng ngu lc - Thng sch - Nguyn Cng Hng. Nguyn vn:
,
4. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: (Trc y, Thng phc

ca quan, nha li, qun, dn u dng o Thanh Ct, i m inh T); (Vit) Loi ch, L triu tp k, i
Vit s k tc bin. Nguyn vn: (Ch c, cc nha li vn
v ln nh v qun lnh u mc o Thanh Ct, i m inh T). Ngoi ra, Loi ch cn dn li Ng Th S
cho bit: M inh T, n nay vn cn, nha li qun
nhn u i. Chng ti cho rng, cm t quan li qun dn trong Cng mc, vn v i tiu t li
qun trong Loi ch, L triu tp k v i Vit s k tc bin, hay t li qun nhn trong li ca Ng Th
S u ch quan li vn v cp thp v binh lnh, khng nn dch thnh cc quan vn v, nha li ln nh,
binh lnh nh mt s bn dch lu hnh hin nay.
Hai bc chn dung t ha ca vn thn Kang Se Hwang

(Khng Th Hong) thi vua Jeong Zo (Chnh T) Triu
Tin. 1. M Sa - B phc - ai. 2. M Sa, o giao lnh,
dy thao n. (M Sa c ch en t ni).
thi L s.
M Sa c ch en t ni theo Phan Huy Ch l m Thng phc
ca hong thi t, vng th t cng hong t, vng t lm cc chc
tam thi, tam thiu c tc qun cng; hong t, vng t lm cc chc
t hu c c tc qun cng; hong t, vng t lm cc chc
c ng tri, c thim s c tc qun cng; hong t, vng t lm
cc chc hiu kim, c, lnh, tham c, v s c tc qun
cng; hong t, vng t c tc qun cng, phn bit vi loi m Hc
Lng Cn ca hong t, vng t cha c phong tc. Da vo danh
xng ca m, i chiu vi loi m Sa ca Trung Quc v Triu Tin
cng thi, chng ti cho rng y l loi m Sa c cp ch en to, t
ni chnh gia phn hu sn.
213
214
Tng ti cha Bt Thp Bc

Ninh i m Sa khng c cnh
chun, mc o giao lnh.
M Sa n dng theo quy ch nm
s thn nh Nguyn. Pho tng quan hu
1721 c p dng i vi cc chc trng
ti lng vua Trn Hin Tng th hin li
s, bnh s, thng s, chnh ph t nghi, ph
tht dy thao hnh s 8 thi Trn. i vi
hiu y, th c, ging d, v y, tri b,
dy thao tht lng thi L, T in Vit - B -
s, tri s, in s, ch b, x mc, ngc tha,
La nh ngha:Thao: dy la cc nh quyn
v cc hng thuc vin tp lu; cc chc c
qu v vn nhn dng tht lng. Tht
nhn, n li, tng thn
thao, tho thao. Tng hp ghi chp trong
li, lnh s, Ni th t
Cng mc, Loi ch, L triu chiu lnh
th t cai ty, cai hp,
thin chnh v.v. c th thy dy thao thi L
th hp tr ln, Th ni
Trung Hng c phn lm 5 loi: dy thao
vn chc th t nho sinh
o ph hu, tng cha Vnh

Nghim, Bc Giang. (nh TQ).
trng thc, gim sinh
n, dy thao kp (tc dy thao c chp li t hai

dy thao n),
dy thao kp xu ngc, dy thao
tr ln; nhng nho sinh
kp xu ngc sc bc, dy thao kp xu ngc sc vng. Trong , loi dy
trng thc, gim sinh, nho sinh, x chnh, x s,
thao kp xu ngc sc vng dnh ring cho hong thi t v vng th
x t, sinh , quan vin t tn, nhiu nam; con
t(1). Theo Lch triu tp k, loi dy thao ny c xu ba vin ngc(2).
chu cc quan vn c phong m tr ln. Da vo
Dy thao kp xu ngc sc bc dnh cho hong thn, vng thn. Cc
danh xng n dng, i chiu vi mt s pho
loi dy thao kp xu ngc, dy thao kp, dy thao n c p dng
tng c m mang kiu dng Sa - Phc u thi
cho b quan, ty theo phm trt cao thp.
L Trung Hng, chng ti ng rng m Sa n

dng c th l m Sa khng c hai cnh chun.
* o Thanh Ct
Thng 6 nm 1653, triu nh h lnh cho
php quan vn t khoa o, quan v t qun cng
M Sa n dng, m
Sa thng thng, m
Sa c ch en t ni.
(Phc dng: TQ).
u c dng loi o Thanh Ct c kiu ph hu (ph: che; hu: sau), quan

li khc u khng c ln vt.(1) T nm 1720, triu nh quy nh
quan vn i m Lng Cn, quan v i m Yn V, o Thanh Ct c
ph hu.(2)
Khc vi quy ch Triu phc chu vua m Phc u - B phc v
Trn Minh Tng mc o giao lnh vng, i m, tht dy thao d tic i
Dy thao. 1. Tng quan hu lng vua L Hin Tng, Lam Kinh, Thanh Ha. 2. Quan vn qua nt
v ca Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605 - 1689); 3. Tng ti cha Bt Thp Bc Ninh; 4. Tng
thi L Trung Hng ti T ch h ng, Bc Ninh; 5. Tng quan hu thi Trn tht thao s 8 (Lng
Trn Hin Tng, Qung Ninh). Theo quy ch Tang phc triu L (Loi ch - L nghi ch - Tang nghi
v Tang phc), khi c quc tang, b quan hoc i m Sa en, o Thanh Ct en, dy thao en,
hoc m Sa trng, o Thanh Ct trng, dy thao trng.

2. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc. Nguyn vn: []
Bn dch lu hnh hin nay dch cm t ph hu l hai vt trc vn ln buc vo sau
lng. Cch hiu v dch nh vy khng chnh xc.
2. (Vit) Lch triu tp k. Tr.135. Nguyn vn: ng Hong Vn Lu (Nxb. KHXH, 1975)
dch l di thao ch t o gip nhau c trang sc bng vng v xu ba vin ngc. Cch hiu v dch nh
vy khng chnh xc.
ai lng, quy ch Thng phc v Th phc ca b quan c quy nh

m Sa phi vi o Thanh Ct v dy thao. Dy thao dng lm tht lng
c nhc n sm nht trong Ton th vo nm 1314, qua vic vua
215
2.2. Bnh nh
DIN MO TRANG PHC L TRUNG HNG
TH HIN QUA TRANH TH VUA L NAM
M Sa, o Thanh Ct va
217
l Thng phc khi vo hong

cung chu vua, va l Th phc
khi vo vng ph hu cha. Nm
Qua tranh th vua L Nam v hong hu c nin i th k XVIII
1721 thi cha Trnh Cng, quy
hin ct gi ti Bo tng Thi Bnh, c th thy trang phc ca b quan
ch Th phc c iu chnh,
th hin trong tranh trn thc t l trang phc vo hu cha ca b quan
lc ny khi cha coi chnh s
thi L Trung Hng. Trong tranh cc quan vn u i m Bnh nh
ph, b quan u i m Bnh
bng sa en ng hng trn cng, cc quan v i m inh T bng
nh, mc o Thanh Ct [] khi
gai (a La) ng hng th hai bn tay tri, binh lnh v tiu li phn
cha tip khch cc, cc quan
ln cng i m inh T hoc mu hoc mu en (Thanh Ct) ng
vn i m Lng Cn, quan v
hng th ba. Li phc sc ny kh khp vi miu t ca Thanh triu vn
i m Yn V. Phm nh H
hin thng kho (khc in nm 1787) : Quan phc, quan vn m Sa, o
cn k li rng, vo cc k thi
c trn, ai, hia; ngy thng th i m cao lm bng on mu en, o
Hi di thi cha Trnh Giang
bo thng tay lm bng vi xanh [] quan v ngy Triu h dng m a
( ngi 1729-1740), ti nht
La Ni cc sc [] ngy thng dng m mu xanh, o bo xanh.(1)
trng, hong thng ng gi ti

in Ging Th, b quan u i
m Phc u, mc B phc, tht
Quan vn An Nam (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier 1605

1689); V quan vinh quy (Bo tng M thut
Vit Nam); Tranh sn mi vua L Nam v
hong hu (Bo tng Thi Bnh).
ai, i hia [] n nh trng, tam trng v t trng, ph

cha lm thay, cc quan theo hu u i m Bnh nh, mc o Thanh
Ct, tht thao, i tt.(1) Tuy nhin, trn thc t, m Bnh nh tn ti
t trc nm 1721, vi tnh cht l trang phc thng nht ca qu tc
v nho s. Loi m ny tng xut hin trong tranh ca S. Baron, tranh
ca Jean-Baptiste Tavernier t th k XVII.
Theo Phm nh H, vo thi L Trung Hng, m Bnh nh c
ch thnh dng lc lng, dng m thp, l loi m s dng trong dp t
l. V sau loi m ny tip tc c ci tin, lm m thng phc cho
vua quan, vng cng v cc nho s. Danh phn tn ti c khu bit
chiu cao v trang sc trn m. Ring loi m vin th Bnh nh (thn trn
Tranh th vua L Nam v Hong hu th k XVIII (Bo tng Thi Bnh).
(nh: Bi Trung Sn).
nh phng), lm bng lng ui nga, sc vng trn trn l loi m thng
nht ca vua cha v l m Thng phc ca hong t, vng t; loi

m kiu lc lng nh lm, lm bng sa Nam l m Thng phc ca
1. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Q.296 - T du t - An Nam. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc H sch - Hi th. Nguyn vn: [][]

[]
218
Ngi Giao Ch trong sch

Boxer Codex, v nm 1590,
i m Lc Hp (lm bng
vi), phn bit vi m Lc
lng Bnh nh (lm bng the
qut sn).
thi gim(1). Cng mc, Loi ch, i Vit s k
khi chu hu cng i, nhng hnh dng m khc
tc bin u cho bit m ca thi gim l m
nhau (1) - mi nn coi l bin th ca m inh T.
Bnh nh sau i thnh kiu dng lc lng(2).
2.3. inh T (Thanh Ct, a La)
Alexandre de Rhodes trong T in Vit - B -
M inh T tr thnh m Thng phc
La nh ngha: M the: M lc lng ca cc v
ca b quan vn v nh Trn k t nm 1301.
vn nhn. M su gc, m lc lng, cc vn
Tuy nhin sau khi tri qua cc t ci cch trang
nhn v bc quyn qu An Nam s dng.
(3)
phc trong sut thi Trn - H - L s, n thi L
Nh vy m Bnh nh vn c dng trn, v
Trung Hng, kiu dng v i tng s dng ca
sau c i thnh dng lc lng. Ring m
m inh T u thay i. Vo thi L Trung
ca thi gim nh lm, phn bit vi m nh
Hng, m inh T phn ln c s dng trong
phng (Bnh nh) ca vua quan v nho s.
phm vi quan li cp thp, binh lnh v thng
219
Qua mt s tranh nh thi L Trung Hng
dn. Ring trong trng hp quc tang, cc quan
hin cn, c th thy m Bnh nh mu en,
i thn, thm ch th t, vng t cng u s
c kiu dng kh cao, m ca vn nhn nho s
dng m inh T lm t vi Thanh Ct (tc l m
u khng c trang sc. V quan Triu Tin l
Thanh Ct). Hong L nht thng ch miu t Th
Mn m khi tr li cu hi ca vua Tc Tng
t Trnh Tng nm m thy mnh mc o mu qu, u i m inh
v phong tc ca ngi Vit triu L miu
T, ng ph ng, ngy hm sau ni vi gia thn: Ta m nh vy,
t on cng s i Vit sang Bc Kinh, ngoi
l im c tang (ch vic cha Trnh Sm mt).(2) Phm nh H cng ghi nhn
tr chnh s, nhng ngi i theo u mc o
gp ngy quc tang, vng cng, khanh s u mc o mu qu.(3)
en, i m en, kiu dng m rt cao, bt k

sang hn u xa tc.
(4)
Tng cha Ty
Phng, H Ni.
Theo quy ch nm 1721, m Thanh Ct c p dng lm Thng

phc kim Th phc cho nhng i tng sau:
Theo ghi chp ca V trung ty bt, Phm

nh H coi loi m thn trn nh phng v
m lc lng nh lm l hai bin th ca m
I TNG S DNG M THANH CT

(theo Loi ch)
inh T, song bt k nguyn nhn xut pht t pha Phm nh H hay

nhng ngi sao chp sau ny, chng ti u cho rng cch phn loi
nh vy l bt hp l. Kiu m nh phng v kiu m lc lng nn c
coi l bin th ca m Bnh nh, ring kiu m th ba Phm nh H
miu t - thn trn may b, lm bng vi Thanh Ct, l m thng dng
ca s th, nha li v binh lnh. Gp ngy quc tang th cc quan i thn
Cng mc, i Vit s k tc bin c ni dung tng t.
3. T in Vit - B - La. Tr.153, 218.
4. (Hn) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc - Tc Tng - Q.23. Nguyn vn:
Hong t, vng t t chc t hu

c, c tc qun cng tr ln
Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o

Thanh Ct kiu ph hu, khng lt
Hong t, vng t t chc c

ng tri c tc qun cng tr xung
Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o

Thanh Ct kiu ph hu, c lt
Con chu cc quan v c phong m

tr ln
Khi vo hu lm vic dng m Thanh

Ct, o Thanh Ct c lt
2. (Vit) Hong L nht thng ch - Hi 1. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng - Y phc. Nguyn vn:
220
trung th snh, cc chc hoa vn

hc sinh, n li, x nhn, tng thn
li, lnh s, th t, ni th t; cc vn
nha mn th cc chc li, li, in
li, thng li
Khi vo hu lm vic th dng m

Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct khng lt
Cc chc l, trn in qun tng

qun, lc s hiu y, thin h, qun
lnh, ph l, chnh y, ph thin
h, trung y, lang tng, ph qun
lnh, bch h, ht, ph trung y,
ph lang tng, t hu tin hu lang
tng, y, chnh v y, ph ht,
t hu tin hu ph lang tng, ph
v y, v y, ph y, ph trung y
M Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct c lt
Cai i, ph cai i, chnh i trng,

ph i trng d trng coi qun
lnh m cha c chc tc
M Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct khng lt
hi in v Loi ch th m a La l loi m
p dng cho mt s hng quan binh nht
221
nh, phn ln l quan binh cp thp, khng

phi trang phc ca quan v ni chung nh
ghi nhn ca Hi in nh Thanh. L triu
hi in ghi rng, lnh Th hu mc o m
a La [] Tt Nguyn n hng nm, quan
binh phin u dng o m a La [] Vo l
yt in Nam Giao, quan binh th hu theo
hu dng o m a La, ngoi binh dng
m a La, o Thanh Ct; vo l Din Th,
Qun tng i m a La (nh

Chu Quyn, Ba V).
t sm, lnh tng m v lnh th v theo th t vo hu, quan binh

th v u dng m o Thanh Ct, quan
binh tng m u dng o m a La.(1).
Loi ch cho bit, mi khi vua L xut
cung, on L b i gi i theo c
quy nh: cc cm qun ni in nh
cc Hiu th kiu ty, Th cn ty, Th ni ty,
Hiu lc ty, T loan gi ty, Hu loan gi
ty, Kim ng v, Cm y v, Tin t i, Tin
hu i, m dng m a La , o dng
o Thanh Ct, mt tay rng, mt tay hp,
vin np trng, c thy 560 ngi, sp
Dng s nh h, i m inh T, ng kh, th k XVII (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); Binh lnh
thi L din tp v ngh i m inh T, ng kh, Their Martial Exercise nm1683. (T liu cc
cng ty ng n); Lnh trng trong tranh vua L Nam v Hong hu (Cc b. Bo tng Thi
Bnh); mt s t liu tranh tng, m inh T d b lm tng loi khn vn thi Nguyn. Tuy
nhin, phn m cong trn nh ra sau gy chnh l c im nhn dng ca m inh T. Khn vn
ca ngi triu Nguyn, thi k u ch c vn ri quanh u.
Ngoi ra, quy ch phm phc ca triu L Trung Hng cn c

mt loi m lm t cht liu a La, c kiu dng tng t m Thanh
Ct, inh T. Theo Thanh triu vn hin thng kho ca nh Thanh
ghi nhn, vo l Triu h, quan v i m a La Ni cc sc, o bo
by nghi trng. i i u th c nht

nguyt, c ng phng, c thp nh thn,
c long vn, ri n 40 gy m vng, 40
kim nm bc, 20 con nga, ri 20 Trn
Hnh tng binh lnh tro thuyn
i m a La, Thanh Ct trn chm
khc g ti nh Ph Lu (Le nh)
v tranh dn gian th k XVIII (Bo
tng Lch s Vit Nam).
in tng cm di cng i m a La
, mc o gm xanh, B t voi, di c
bt tt che u gi(2)
Ch Nam ngc m gii thch: o gai
thng tay lm bng on sc s, o M Qui n vai (ch o khoc ngoi

khng c ng tay o, ch chm n ngang vai) lm bng a La Ni mu . Cng
c ngi mc B phc thu hnh h bo, voi.(1) Tuy nhin, theo L triu
1. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Quyn 296 - T du t - An Nam. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) L triu hi in (A.52). Nguyn vn: []

[][]
2. (Vit) Loi ch. Tr.20, 21. Bn dch dch t a La l l gai, y chng ti dng m Hn Vit.
Tang thng ngu

lc nhn nh Lng
222
Cn v Yn V l m Yn
phc, cng tc l Tin
phc. Song trn thc t
Bc ha vua L xut cung do Samuel Baron v nm 1685 (The Description of Tonqueen). Trang
phc m inh T, o giao lnh th hin qua hnh tng vua L trong tranh rt c th l b trang
phc vua s dng khi tang.
l La Ni . Cc t a La, a La Ni hay La Ni thc cht u ch

(1)
cng mt loi vi gai, phn ln c mu xanh v . Kt hp cc ghi

(2)
chp trn vi t liu tranh tng hin cn, c th khng nh, m a

La, Thanh Ct u c kiu dng nh m inh T. M a La c gi l
a La l bi c lm t cht liu a la, tng t trng hp ca m
Thanh Ct. M Thanh Ct c lm bng vi Thanh Ct mu en nn
Phm nh H xp vo dng m th ba ca m inh T. Trang phc
m a La c th kt hp vi o a La, cng c th kt hp vi o Thanh
Ct, o gm xanh.
Cc loi o ny phn ln c kiu giao lnh, song cng c loi o c
trn cc tay tng t o M Qui nh miu t ca Thanh triu vn hin
thng kho.
2.4. Lng Cn, Yn V
Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng nhn thy t thi Trung Hng v
sau, phm phc cha c chnh ng, khi i s lin phng tm quy ch
nh Minh em v nc, n khi lm t tng, nh li phm phc, theo
Quan Vn i m
Trng Dip (l kp),
cn c gi l Lng
Cn, phng theo hnh
dng ch Vn.
Quan V i m n
Dip (l n), cn c
gi l m Yn V (ui
n), phng theo hnh
dng ch V.
y cng l trang phc

b quan mc khi vo hu
cha. V trung ty bt
cn cho bit, Nguyn
Khn v cha Trnh Sm
l bn o vi, khi cha ln ngi (nm 1765), mi khi nghe ht, u lnh
cho Nguyn Khn ngi hu, ng i Lng Cn, mc Tin phc, ngi ta
ging ng, cm chu im ht(1).
Ngoi ra, cc sch Cng mc, Loi ch, i Vit s k tc bin, Lch
triu tp k, V trung ty bt v Tang thng ngu lc u ghi nhn vic
t thn Nguyn Cng Hng ch ra cc loi m dnh cho b quan vn
v. Song Cng mc, Loi ch, i Vit s k tc bin u gi m Lng
Cn l m Trng Dip, m Yn V l m n Dip(2), ring Cng mc
cn dn li Ng Th S cho bit: Nhng nm Bo Thi (1720-1729) ca
bn triu mi t ra quy ch quan v i m n Dip, quan vn i
m Trng Dip [] T thn Nguyn Cng Hng chit t theo t dng ca
ch Vn, ch V m ch ra hai loi m ny.(3) Phm nh H gii thch
Lng Cn l m l, Yn V cn l m ui n(4). Mc Tang nghi,
Tang phc trong L nghi ch, Phan Huy Ch cho bit, khi c quc tang,
phm m bng sa on Bc, m Lng Cn v m Yn V lc lng u
quy nh: Yn phc, quan vn i Lng Cn, quan v i m Yn V,

o Thanh Ct c ph hu, th n l m inh T kt hp vi o c lt.(3)

2. Cht liu ny trong sch Bang giao ch chp l gai la, c mu xanh v . Theo Hn in zdic.net
th a La Ni trong ting Hn ch cht liu n dt bng len tng i dy.
3. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc Thng sch - Nguyn Cng Hng. Nguyn vn:
[],
(Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
[] (Nm Khang Hy th 57, T tng
Nguyn Cng Hng i s Bc quc phng tm in hin c ca nh Minh, v nc t nh chng phc
[] Vo bui Thng th, th s th quan vn dng Lng Cn, quan v dng m Yn V, u do ng Nguyn
Cng Hng ch ra c).
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Tin in Nguyn tc. Nguyn vn:

[]
(Theo quy ch c, nha li, binh lnh u mc o Thanh Ct, i m inh T, n y, Tham
tng Nguyn Cng Hng kin ngh ci i [] L s tc bin ch thch: Quan vn v t nht phm n tam
phm, ma xun - ma h dng the Bc, ma thu - ma ng dng on Bc, u dng mu huyn. M, quan
vn dng m Trng Dip, quan v dng m n Dip; (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc
chi ch. Nguyn vn: []
[]
223
224
theo dng thc m lm bng sa en Nam, khng lm hoa mu le lot(1).
lm bng vin vng. M ca quan t
Chng ti cho rng Yn V lc lng chnh l m Yn V.
t phm tr xung khng dng kim
Tm li, c th thy m Lng Cn v Yn V do tham tng Nguyn
tuyn, i dng si t nht mu.
Cng Hng ch to sau khi tham kho quy ch ca nh Minh, trong
Vin lng c quy nh ty theo
m Lng Cn tng hnh ch Vn, c hai l ch sang hai bn nn cn
phm cp(1). Dng nh s liu thi
c gi l Trng Dip (l kp), m Yn V tng hnh ch V, ch c mt
L - Nguyn b st khng cp n
l pha sau m tng t hnh ui n nn c gi l n Dip (l n),
loi m ny, song da vo pho tng
thn m c dng lc lng. Chng ti cho rng loi m Lng Cn c t
Hong t L nh T th ti cha Bt
thi L s m vua L Thnh Tng tng cm dn gian ch to cng nh
Thp, chng ti ng rng m Trung
m Lng Cn en p dng lm Triu phc cho hong t, vng t cha
Tnh tng hin din ti triu nh nh
c phong tc, vi loi m Lng Cn phng hnh dng ch Vn do
L, c p dng lm m Tin phc
Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng ch ra l hai loi m khc nhau. Vi c
i vi mt s v vng cng, i thn
liu hin c, chng ti cha xc nh c hnh dng c th ca cc loi
no .
225
Nguyn Siu (th k XVIII, Bo tng M

thut Vit Nam); Bc Cn (Phc nguyn);
Song Si Yeol (Bo tng C cung Seoul).
3.2. Bao nh, Bt Tin, Bc Cn
m ny, nn y nh li di dng tn nghi, ch kho cu v sau.
Phm nh H k li: Ta thu nh
3. Tin phc
Khc vi trang phc dn gian, trang phc ngy thng ca b quan
thy cc bc tin bi khi nhn c thng
vn c nhng quy ch o m, vi vc c th nhm khu bit danh phn
i M V Bao nh (Phm nh H cn gii
tn ti, trn di. Ngoi cc loi m Bnh nh, inh T, Lng Cn, Yn
thch: M V cn l m ng M V(2)),
V va c coi l Th phc, va c
trn, nh phng, cao khong mt thc,
dng lm trang phc thng ngy,
cng c ngi i m Bt Tin. i vi
quan li qu tc v nho s thi L Trung
nh s th th m Bt Tin v Bc Cn l
Hng cn c cc loi m Tin phc nh
Cng phc. M Bt Tin lm bng on
Bao nh, Bt Tin, Bc Cn v.v.
mu huyn hoc sa the, nh phng,
3.1. Trung Tnh
trn may cnh hoa cc my lp m ln

nhau, quanh m gp np nh m Trc
Theo quy ch ca nh Minh, m

Trung Tnh l loi m Tin phc ca cc
M Trung Tnh (Tam ti hi); Hong

t L nh T cha Bt Thp (Bc Ninh)
xa tc, i m Trung Tnh.
kiu dng
Quan thi c, di dy buc ngang trn,
chc quan i khi nhn h, khng phi
K lo ngoi thnh H Ni, nm

1920. (nh: Albert Kahn).
vo triu. Loi m ny c khung lm
dim r, i phng theo m Bao nh m lm thm vn v vy. Bc
bng si st, bn ngoi bc bng the
Cn dng Phng Cn gp li m thnh, c th xem Gia l (tc Chu T gia
en, nhung en, chp m hi vung,
l).(3)
bung phn tha ra sau gy v hai tai c
ng cn ni: Nc ta khng c m Truy B, song Bao nh cng
phn gia hi nh, trn m sc cc

vin lng, p bng si vng, sau m
c hai cnh (gi l nh sn), cng c
1. (Trung) Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.52.

c th cha tc, hoc (ngi nc ta) c lc i

Bc Cn.(1)
226
227
Qua miu t ca Phm nh H, c

th thy m Bt Tin thc cht l m M V
Bao nh. Hai loi m ny u c thn trn,
nh phng tng t m vin th Bnh nh
ca vua L, cha Trnh. Nhn chung, mc d
c nhiu tn gi khc nhau, vi chiu cao
v trang sc khc nhau, song kiu m dng
ng nh bng r rng tng rt ph bin
vo thi L Trnh.
Ring Bc Cn, ngay t thi H, Nguyn
Bc tranh Chn dung m ti (Gia
t cn tng) ca ha s Nam Sn,
v nm 1932.
Phi Khanh miu t Chng Tc hu Trn

Nguyn n i Bc Cn ng nh leo ln
ni(2), chng t Bc Cn xut hin Vit
Nam t kh sm. Bc Cn c kiu dng tng t m ni, song hai bn mang

tai c hai di tht, tht li sau u. Loi khn - m ny thng c kt hp
vi Thm y, vn l mt trong nhng b trang phc trang trng ca nho
s, tng ht sc ph bin ti Trung Quc v
Triu Tin. Vo thi L Trung Hng, theo
cch ni ca Phm nh H, dng nh
tn sut s dng Bc Cn khng ph bin
nh m Bao nh, song thi thong vn c
ngi s dng. V cng theo ng, i tng
s dng Bc Cn ti Vit Nam khng ch
c nho s m cn c c ngi dn thng.
Chng ta c th thy Bc Cn qua tranh
chn dung Nguyn Siu, ph iu chn
dung Ng Th S, tng V Min, tranh
chn dung thn mu ha s Nam Sn, v
bc nh Albert Kahn chp mt v k lo
ngoi H Ni nm 1920.
Tng V Min (1717 - 1782) i

Bc Cn, mc o giao lnh, th ti
nh th dng h V ti thn Ngc
Quan, Bc Ninh.

Bn dch ca ng Chu Nguyn Hu Tin c nhiu li dch thut, c bit phn kho v o m.
2. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.494. Thanh H ng k. Nguyn vn:
Tranh chn dung Nguyn Siu, th k XVIII (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
1. L phc
Thng tin duy nht
228
229
lin quan n L phc

ca hu phi triu L s l
nhng dng miu t ca
Nguyn Tri trong t ch
ban tng Chiu Nghi lm
Hong Thi phi. Sch
Tang thng ngu lc cho
bit: Vn ca Nguyn Tri
Thn s thi L Trung Hng i m the Bnh nh. (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
Trn y l mt s kiu m mo thng nht ca quan li qu tc

c nhc n trong s liu m chng ti hin kho c. Trn thc t,
kiu dng m mo ca cc vn nhn, nho s, qu tc thi L chc hn
phong ph, a dng hn nhiu so vi ghi chp ca s liu. Sau ny vo
u thi Nguyn, vi mun ci i trang phc cho khc hn tin triu
ng Ngoi, triu nh nh Nguyn ra sc cm cc loi m tng
c s dng ph bin vo thi L. y cng chnh l nguyn do khin
chng ta thy ngi triu Nguyn sang hn u ng lot bi tc vn
khn, mc o di ci khuy, nhng kiu m thng nht dnh cho b
quan v nho s phn ln tuyt tch.
III. TRANG PHC HU CUNG
T liu trang phc hu cung thi L, Trn, H, L hin thy khng
ngoi mt s pho tng c to dng vo th k XVII, XVIII mang
nhng nt trang phc c trng ca mnh ph thi L Trung Hng. Da
vo tnh ng i v nhng c im chung ca cc pho tng, chng ta
cng ch c th on nh c mt phn no trang phc ca chnh triu
L Trung Hng, khng th loi suy trang phc ca cc triu i khc. D
nhin, mt s kiu o nh o giao lnh, c trn, t thn i khm xut
hin t thi L - Trn, song s kt hp gia cc dng y phc v trang sc
hng hn c kh lc nh
tc phm Bnh Ng i
co, Lam Kinh Vnh Lng
thn o bi c vit vo
thi Thun Thin (14281433), chp trong Thc lc,
y khng nhc li na.
Vo thi Thiu Bnh (14341439), t Ch tng Chiu
V ch . 1. M Phng Quan v o V ch ca
hong hu nh Minh (Tam ti hi); 2. gii trang sc
m ca vng hu Triu Tin (Bo tng C cung Quc lp
Seoul); 3. Hai tm o V ch ca vng hu Triu Tin
hin ct gi ti i hc Sejong Hn Quc.
Nghi lm Hong Thi phi, ng vit: [] Kho xt di ch Thnh Chu, nn

phong Thi Phi danh phn, sng t cng lao bo hu, vn trn nghi
l ai vinh. Than i! L phc V ch, v vang khng k mt cn; nm m
tuyn i, trang tr sng ngi tri t.(1) Da vo ni dung t ch, c
th thy L phc ca Hong Thi Phi thi vua L Thi Tng l V ch,
loi L phc t nh theo quy ch ca nh Chu, c coi l chun mc
ca Nho gio. y cng l dng L phc chung ca hu phi cc triu
Tng - Minh, Triu Tin v Lu Cu. Theo Chu l, V ch l L phc tn
qu nht trong su loi trang phc ca hu phi, tng ng vi trang
phc Cn Min ca hong . B trang phc ny va l T phc kim
Triu phc, ng thi cng l ct phc ca hong hu, phi tn s dng
trong cc dp i l sch phong v hn l. V ch vn c mu en huyn,
thu v hoa vn chim tr. T thi ng tr v sau sc o c i sang
to nn b L phc, Thng phc dnh cho hong hu, vng phi v

cng cha v.v. mi thi mi khc bit.
1. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc - L Cng Tri v (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.3. Nguyn vn:
230
mu xanh sm, hoa vn chim tr c
Tuy nhin, t thi L Trung Hng
thu khp o theo mi hai hng, vin
tr v sau, khng r quy ch V ch
c o, tay o u c thu rng .
ca hu phi c b ph b tng t
(1)
quy ch Cn Min ca hong hay
Khc vi s n nh ca o V
khng?
ch, loi m kt hp vi L phc ny

mi mt triu i li c nhng quy
Bn cnh , qua kho st cc
ch khc bit. Ti Trung Quc, vo thi
pho tng Hong hu Ngc Bch,
Hn, hong hu s dng Cn Quc,
Hong hu Ngc Onh, Hong
thi ng dng trm thoa hnh hoa,
hu Ngc Trc (cha Mt, Thanh
thi Tng Minh dng Phng Quan.

Ti Triu Tin, ngoi Phng Quan,
trong nhiu trng hp mi tc ca
231
Hin vt o V ch ca vng hu
Triu Tin (i hc Sejong Hn Quc
ct gi).
Ha), Qun cha Trnh Th Ngc

C, Cng cha L Th Ngc Duyn
(cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh), chng
vng hu cn c vn tt thnh mt bi ln nh u, chung quanh
ti nhn thy nhng chic m th
ci cc trang sc hoa trn, trm vng tr hnh chim phng ln nh.
hin trn cc pho tng ny u c
M th hin trn pho tng Qun cha Trnh

Th Ngc C, Cng cha L Th Ngc Duyn
(th k XVIII, cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh).
chung mt m tp. Thn m u c vy kn bi cc hoa vn dng la.

Gia trn m c trang sc tng Pht ngi kit gi. nh m cn c
trang sc hnh ch nht, mt u gn sau trn m, mt u t ln bi
tc. To hnh ht sc gn gi vi cc loi m th hin trn tng Pht
cha Ma, tng Pht b cha Sng Nghim Din Thnh, cha Ngo v
mt s tranh v B Tt Ph Hin.
Kt hp vi loi m mang
m m hng Pht gio ny,
phn ln l dng o giao lnh, i
cng vi o i khm v thng.
Ring hai pho tng Hong hu
Trnh Th Ngc Trc v Hong
hu Phm Th Ngc Onh cn
Trang phc V ch ca vng phi Triu Tin (phc ch); Chn dung Hong hu Tng
Thn Tng v Hong hu Tng Huy Tng thi Tng (Bo tng C Cung i Bc).
Tnh ti thi im hin nay, t liu lin quan n b trang phc V

ch ch tn ti trong vi dng ghi chp vn gn, tng t trng hp L
khoc vn kin nm hnh rng

phng ph trn vai, pha di
Tng Pht b cha Ngo, Phc Th. (nh: Nguyn
Th Dung).
nh cc di anh lc di che lng

v bng. Phn ln vin o, vin
phc Cn Min ca cc triu i L - Trn. Song vi s ph bin v tnh
dy buc tc v vin tay o u c thu dt nhng hoa vn hoa cun
n nh ca b L phc ny, chng ti ng rng, V ch khng ch l L
an xen. Mt s b phi cn mc ym nh cc trang sc vng, ngc, hoc
phc ca hu phi triu L s, m c th cn c nin i sm hn na.
eo vng trang sc nhiu tng, tot ln v sang trng, qu phi.
1. Tham kho Trung Quc phc sc i t in (Tr.136) v http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/
ngoi. Ngoi ra, mt s hnh

tng cng cha, mnh ph
232
233
th hin trn cc pho tng

th ti cha Ph Minh, Qun
S, Th H v.v. c nin i th
k XVII, XVIII u mc mt
loi vy di quy ngang c,
c tht li bng di la
di ngc, ngoi cng khoc
o i khm, hu ht u xa
tc theo tc tc thi L
Trung Hng. Cc dng trang
phc th hin trn cc pho
1. Hong hu Trnh Th Ngc Trc (cha Bt Thp, Bc

Ninh); 2. Cng cha Mc Ngc Lm, cha Ph Minh,
Nam nh. (nh: TQ).
tng ny nhiu kh nng

u c t thc.
Chn dung Minh Nhn Nh nhn Bi Th Gic (1738 - 1805)

(Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
Chng ti cho rng, kiu m tng t vng min, mang hi hng

tn gio, kt hp vi cc dng o giao lnh, t thn i khm, vn kin,
di trang sc anh lc, thm ch phi vi trng ht c th l mt trong
nhng b L phc ca hu phi nh L Trung Hng.
2. Tin phc
Da vo cc pho tng Hong hu Trng Lc (cha Huy Vn), Hong
hu Trnh Th Ngc Trc (cha Bt Thp), tranh chn dung Nh nhn Bi
Th Gic th k XVIII v cc bc tranh mnh ph An Nam trong Hong
Thanh chc cng , c th thy vo ngy thng, trang phc ca cc b
hu phi, mnh ph thi L Trung Hng, phn ln vn l dng o giao lnh,
o t thn thng tay, c th cn c mt lp o Sam mng mc chong ra
Cng cha L Th Ngc Quyn (cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh); Phu nhn Qun cng Nguyn Th M
(Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); Qun cha Trnh Th Ngc C (cha Bt Thp); Chiu nghi L Th
Ngc Hon; Hong hu Ngc Bch; Hong hu ngi H Lan (cha Mt Sn, Thanh Ha).
hai chic sng(1). Chng t da tru l mt
IV. TRANG PHC QUN I

Thi L Trung Hng, m
234
trong nhng nguyn liu chnh may qun
Phc u v cc dng nn sn
Quan v triu L Trung Hng trong tranh ca JeanBaptiste Tavernier (1605 - 1689).
V quan v nh s 1 c ch thch: i thn
ca Vng quc ng Kinh; v quan v c nh
s 4 c ch thch: Quan v hoc s quan chin
tranh? Theo quy ch Triu phc ca v quan thi
L Trung Hng, xp theo th hng tn ti, ln lt
gm: m Phc u, nn sn bc nh hng mao,
nn sn son nh hng mao, m Thanh Ct, m a
La. Vy nn v i thn ca Vng quc ng
Kinh v hai v v quan trong tranh hn i nn sn
bc nh hng mao. (Trong cc hnh v trn, B t
trn ngc o cc quan u b che khut).
phc, c bit l Gip Tr ca tng lnh.
vn c duy tr lm m Triu
Mt khc, khng t lng m ca vua quan
phc, Thng phc dnh cho
tng lnh triu L u c tng tng s mc
cc chc quan v cp cao. Cc
Gip Tr ng canh gc, m thc to tng
bin th ca m inh T, T
gn nh ng nht. iu cho thy ngoi b
Phng Bnh nh c quy
Gip Tr gin tin nh Thanh triu vn hin
nh lm qun trang cho cc
thng kho ghi nhn, qun trang ca triu L
chc quan v cp thp v binh
Trung Hng cn c quy ch Gip Tr ring
lnh. Phn trn, chng ti ln
bit. C iu, b Gip Tr th hin trn cc pho
lt trnh by quy ch ca cc
tng tng s thi L Trung Hng thng a
loi m Phc u, Thanh Ct,
dng v kiu cch. Trc tnh trng thiu ht
a La. phn ny, chng ti s
t liu vn t v hin vt i chng, chng
tip tc trnh by quy ch c th
ti cha th xc nh c u l b Gip Tr
ca cc dng nn sn v th ln
chun mc ca tng s triu L. Song chng
Tr p dng cho mt s i
Quan v triu L Trung Hng

xa tc, i nn sn chp nh
hng mao. (Nhng khu truyn
gio ca cha Marini).
qun c bit ca triu nh.
c mt s quy ch Gip Tr ring bit p dng i vi mt s hng tng
tm din mo trang phc Gip
1. Gip Tr
L Thnh Tng tng ra ch
d ni: Nhng th o Gip, m Tr l kh th qun i thm trang
ti mnh dn t gi thit Gip Tr triu L

khng ch c mt kiu dng n nht, c th
t khc nhau.
2. Nn sn
Quy ch Triu phc dnh cho ban v ca triu L Trung Hng k
nghim.(1) Song cng nh thi L, Trn, H, Gip Tr thi L ch cn li
tha quy ch Triu phc nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, quy nh: cc
danh xng, khng c miu t c th v kiu dng, trang sc. Theo Thanh
quan v t, ng phm i nn bc, lc phm tr xung i nn son(2). So
triu vn hin thng kho, binh ch triu L Trung Hng coi o a La
snh quy ch nm 1661, 1721 v 1725 chp trong Cng mc v Loi ch,
Ni kt hp vi m l Khi Gip (tc Gip Tr). Mt s pho tng qun s
c th thy khi nim nn sn son, nn sn bc ng nht vi khi nim
ti lng Dinh Hng (Bc Giang) v ph iu g cha Ci (Vnh Phc)
nn son, nn bc. Ngoi ra, L triu thin chnh in l v Cng mc
th k XVI, u i m Tr hp vnh kt hp vi o giao lnh, c th l
u cho bit, trn chp ca hai loi nn ny cn c nh hng mao(3).
(2)
khi nim Khi Gip m Vn hin thng kho ca nh Thanh ghi nhn.
Tuy nhin, theo quy ch binh dng chp trong L triu hi in,
trc kia, tt c trn th cc x v cc ch trong kinh u phi np 100
tm da tru may qun phc, ng thi phi np km mi b da tru
1. (Vit) Ton th - Mc ngy 9.4.1496. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) L triu hi in. Tr.98.

2. (Vit) Ton th - Mc thng 10 nm 1500. Nguyn vn: []
T phm ti Ng phm, m th quan v dng Nn bc, quan vn
dng m Phc u khng trang sc [] Lc phm tr xung, m th quan v dng nn son, quan vn dng
m Phc u khng trang sc. (Vit) Cng mc - Mc thng 11 nm 1725. Nguyn vn:
T, ng phm, quan v dng nn bc,
quan vn dng m Phc u sc thau. Lc phm tr xung, quan v dng nn son, quan vn dng m Phc
u khng trang sc. Php quan i m Gii Tri.
3. (Vit) Cng mc - Mc thng 6 nm 1661. Nguyn vn: ,
235
L triu hi in cn
QUY CH NN SN
P DNG CHO BAN V TRIU L TRUNG HNG
236
Nm 1661
(theo Cng mc)
Loi
nn
i
tng
v
trang
phc
i
km
Nn sn bc
nh hng
mao
Hong t,
vng t
phong
hiu im,
c, tham
c, lnh
gia phong
qun cng
Trang phc:
o - B t
S t - Thao
kp xu ngc
- Cm kim
Nh phm gia
phong tc
hu
Trang phc:
o - B t
Voi - Dy thao
n - Cm
kim
Nn sn son
nh hng
mao
Tam phm,
t phm gia
phong tc
hu
Trang phc:
o - B
t Voi - Thao
n - Cm
kim
Ng, lc, tht
phm
Trang phc:
o khng
nh B t Dy thao n
- Cm kim
Nm 1721
(theo Loi ch)
Nn sn bc
nh hng
mao
Nn sn son nh
hng mao
Hong t,
vng t chc
hiu kim,
c,
lnh, tham
c, v s
m c tc
qun cng
ch huy s,
ch huy ng tri,
ch huy thim
s, ch huy s, ch
huy ng tri, ch
huy thim s, tng
tri, ng tng tri,
thim tng tri tc
hu
Trang phc:
o - B t
S t - Thao
kp xu ngc Cm kim
Trang phc: o
giao lnh - B t
Voi - Thao n
hiu kim,
c,
lnh, tham
c, v s
tc qun
cng
l, trn in
qun tng qun,
lc s hiu y,
thin h, qun
lnh, y, trung
y, lang tng,
bch h, ht, t
hu tin hu lang
tng, v y, v
y (chnh - ph
khng phn bit)
Trang phc:
o - B t
H bo - Thao
kp - Cm
kim
hiu im,
c, tham
c, ph
c, lnh th
v, t hu hiu
im tc hu
Trang phc:
o - B t
Voi - Thao n
- Cm kim
Trang phc: o
giao lnh khng
c B t - Thao
n. Chc trn
in cm kim v
di ng, cn li
cm kim
ghi nhn loi nn son
237
dnh cho to s, v c
nhn l nn sn son, hai
dim che tai vin thau.
Mi chic chun cho 8
mch, 3 lng hng mao(1)
tng t quy ch m Phc
u ca tin s ban vn.
3. Cc dng trang
phc khc
S sch chnh thng

thng ch tp trung m
t quy ch o mo ca
b quan vn v cp cao,
him khi nhc ti qun
trang ca mt s hng
lnh tiu tt. Loi ch,
L triu hi in, L triu
chiu lnh thin chnh
l nhng cun sch ghi
chp t m nht v quy ch
trang phc ca b quan
Nn thy th (Ngi trn tu bun i nn ny, hoc khi

tri nng ma dng che u), nn mc ng (Nn ny
lm bng l bng. L ny mc nhiu trong Thanh) nh
chic st (K thut ca ngi An Nam); Quan v (Tranh c
Vit Nam); Quan v Tonkin (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier); Lnh
cm c (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
triu L Trung Hng, song cng khng nhc ti nhng loi nn ph bin
vo thi L s nh nn Thy Ma, nn da, nn ng trng v.v. Tng t,
Hi in ca triu Nguyn cng khng cp ti quy ch c th ca
nhng dng nn c p dng lm qun trang ng thi. Trong khi ,
kh c th ph nhn rng vic s dng nn lm qun trang c k
tha mun nht l t thi L s ti thi Nguyn.
Ring loi nn p dng cho binh lnh thi L Trung Hng, chng
ta ch tm thy vi dng ghi chp t i ca Phm nh H qua V trung
ty bt. ng cho bit: Qun lnh i Tro lp, tc gi l nn cho vnh
[] n nh hai vng Thanh Ngh th ngi ta u i Vin C lp (vin
c: ci st trn), tc gi l nn Ngh [] n khong nm Nhm Dn, Qu
1. (Vit) L triu hi in (A.52). Nguyn vn:
238
Mt s dng m Tr th hin trn cc pho tng tng

s thi L Trung Hng.
Mo (1782-1783) qun Tam
(thi Hn) vit: Khn ph
ph lm lon, cy cng lm
ln bi tc gi l khn Trch
cn, nhiu ngi i nn
[] Loi khn ny vn c
Vin C ln vi lnh, dn
s dng trong dn gian, cui
chuyn thnh tc [] n
thi Ty Hn sang hn u s
nm Bnh Ng (1786) trong
dng, ngi bnh dn khng
nc c bin, li b Vin
i m, qu tc i m th i
C i Cu Din [] nn
ln trn Trch [] n thi
Tro khng cn thy na.
(1)
Hn Vn kiu dng khn
Nh vy, qun lnh thi L
Trch c thay i nh ni
Trung Hng ngoi mt s
rng vnh khn, gia thm hai
loi m nh a La, Thanh
dim che tai, ng thi che
Ct, cn s dng nn lm
nh u.[] Hu Hn th -
qun trang. Nn qun trang
D phc ch h vit: n thi
t nht c nn Tro v nn
Hiu Vn lin chnh vnh
Vin C, nhng t nm 1786
khn cao ln, cho thm dim
tr v sau, cc loi nn ny
che tai, n khn ln lm vm
dn b loi b. Mt s tranh
m, chm vo pha sau th thu li, qun thn trn di sang hn u i
v v quan, binh lnh triu
[] m v li thng i Trch mu , cho c uy nghim. Chng
L Trung Hng xut hin
ta cha r loi Trch mu trng nh mo g ti Vit Nam rt cuc c
mt s dng nn m, song
hnh dng c th ra sao, song t nht y cng l mt trong nhng dng
danh xng v quy ch c th
qun trang ca hng lnh tiu tt thi L Trung Hng.
239
Tng tng s ti lng Thi phi Nguyn Th Ngc

Dim, lng a Bt, x Vnh Tn, huyn Vnh Lc,
Thanh Ha. (nh: TQ).
ca cc loi nn m ny hin vn cha c t liu vn t c th i

chiu.
Ngoi ra, i vi qun trang ca mt s hng lnh cp thp, ngoi
b khinh trang mnh trn ng kh nh hnh tng lnh Giao Ch v
trong Boxer Codex nm 1590, Phm nh H qua cu chuyn Ngi
nng phu ln kinh cn cho bit: Mt tn lnh i Trch mu , tc
gi l K Quan cn (m mo g), tay cm kim, l ngi quen c, thy
nng phu lin mng r, ci Trch i cho anh ta.(2) Trung Quc y quan
phc sc i t in (Tr.119) nh ngha: Phng ngn ca Dng Hng
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Lp. Nguyn vn: []

[]
. []
2. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc - Thng sch - Nh kinh nng phu. Nguyn vn:
Hnh tng binh lnh trn chm khc g (Le nh) v tng lnh canh lng Dinh Hng
(Bc Giang) i m Tr, mc o giao lnh. (nh: TQ).

240
1. Y phc
241
Nu coi o di c ng ci
khuy l quc phc ca triu Nguyn
th o giao lnh - trng vt hn phi
l quc phc ca triu L. y l
dng trang phc tng c s dng
o giao lnh, cn gi l trc lnh (c thng), i lnh (c ln), trng

lnh (c di). Mt s chic o giao lnh thi L Trung Hng khai qut
ti vn o Nht Tn (nh: GS.TS. Nguyn Ln Cng cung cp).
rng ri trn ton ci ng.

Vo nm 1681, Jean Baptiste
Tavernier m t cch n mc ca
ngi Vit trang trng v n gin.
l mt ci o di n gt chn,
o T in c trn thi Trn v o giao lnh

trng vt th hin trong bc tranh Ging hc
th k XVIII. (Cc b. Bo tng Lch s).
Cc loi qun o kiu Khch cn thy phi i theo th ch quc tc []

n ng, n b mc o trc lnh ngn tay (tc o giao lnh vi chiu di ng
tay o chm n c tay),
ng tay o rng hp cho c ty tin. o th t hai
gn ging o di ca Nht Bn, n ng v n b n mc ging nhau
bn nch tr xung u nn may khp li, khng c m, khng c
khng phn bit. o di h mc c tht khong gia thn bng mt
chit eo. Ring n ng nu mun mc o c trn hp tay tin lm
ci tht lng la, eo vng, bc nh rt p. Loi o di gn ging
vic cng c. L phc dng o trc lnh ng tay di, hoc may bng
kimono ca ngi Nht, c n ng v n b i Vit thi L s
vi Thanh Ct, hoc vi thm, hoc vi trng ty nghi.(1) Trnh Hoi
dng rng ri chnh l o giao lnh. Qua sc lnh ca triu nh L Trnh
c cng cho bit, trc khi din ra cuc ci cch y phc ng Trong
yu cu nhn dn vng Thun Ha, vn nht lot i mc o di c
nm 1744, ngi Vit ti thnh Gia nh vn tun theo tp tc c ca
ng t nm 1744, phi i li y phc, c th thy kiu o giao lnh v o
Giao Ch, ngi dn xa tc i chn t, nam n u dng o trc lnh
c trn trong quan nim ca triu nh nh L chnh l dng o quc
ngn tay, o may khp li hai bn nch, khng c qun, n ng dng
tc. L Qu n cho bit: Ma xun nm Bnh Dn, t Trn ph Nha
mt kh vi qun quanh eo, n di mng th b li tht vo vng rn,
mn ( Thun Ha). Bt
gi l ci kh, n b c loi vy quy khng gp np, i nn ln(2). Qua
u t thng 7, tuyn
li ghi nhn ca L Qu n v Trnh Hoi c, c th thy loi o giao
r d rng: Y phc
lnh s dng rng ri ng thi khng chit eo v cng khng x vt
bn quc
(ch y phc nh
qu cao nh loi o di kiu Khch, tin thn ca dng o di nm thn.
ch ring, a
Mt khc, nam gii thng dn ngi Vit thng ch ng kh, mc
phng ny trc y
trm o giao lnh ra bn ngoi, nht l nhng vng t quanh nm
cng tun theo quc
nng bc. Kiu cch trang phc ny chng ta cn tm thy trong m t
tc. Nay cung vng
ca quan nh Thanh, L Tin Cn, n ng n b u mc o c ln,
(1)
L) c
Thng c, dp yn
bin phng, trong
ngoi
Ngi Giao Ch (ng Ngoi) v ngi Qung Nam (ng
Trong) trong Boxer Codex (nm 1590).
1. Tp du k mi v k th v vng quc ng Ngoi (1681). Tr.43.
thng
nht,
chnh tr v phong tc
cng nn nh mt.
1. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc. Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: []
khng phn bit, khng c qun, n b c vy quy khng gp np(1),

hay thm ch c th truy ln n thi Trn H qua Trc Lm i s xut
242
sn v bc Giao Ch quc trong Tam ti hi.
Tranh th th k XVIII ti nh Ngoi, Thanh Lit, H Ni. (nh: TQ).
Ngoi kiu o giao lnh, c trn th cc dng o t thn, vy p,

ym v kh u l nhng kiu trang phc truyn thng, c cu hin
din t thi L - Trn v tip tc c k tha vo thi L - Nguyn.
Jerome Richard miu t ngi Vit ng Ngoi nm 1778, cho bit:
Nhng ngi ph n ni chung n mc kh khim nh. H mc mt
chic vy di v mt hoc nhiu o cng kiu nh ca nam gii nhng
chng ngn hn. H buc quanh ngc mt chic ym l mt mnh vi
hoc mt mnh la c hnh tri tim, dng lm p cho h [] Nhng
ngi giu hoc c phm tc mc lt cc rng v di, o ng c tay
hp v ngn cng kiu vi o di bn trong v bn ngoi ca h [] Qun
o ca dn ng Ngoi a dng v mu sc. Thng thng nht l mu
trng. C ngha l mu sc t nhin ca la hoc ca vi. Mu en ph
hp vi nhng ngi c trng vng nht.(2) Thanh triu vn hin
thng kho cng c ghi nhn tng t: n ng n b u xa tc,
i t. Qun o hoc lm bng vi hoc lm bng la, phn ln dng
sc trng. n ng dng vi tht lng, sau lun xung di mng
Mt s tranh chn dung thi L Trung Hng. 1. Kin trung hu Trnh nh Kin (1715 - 1786) (Nh
th h Trnh ti Thnh Cng, H Ni); 2.Tham Tng Nguyn Qu c (1648 - 1720); 3. Thng
th Nguyn Qu Knh (1693 - 1766) (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); 4. Quc Uy cng Nguyn
Phc Thun (1653 - 1675) (Nh th Quc Uy cng ti lng D L, huyn Hng Thy, Hu).
1. (Trung) An Nam truyn, An Nam tp k, An Nam du k An Nam tp k:
2. Lch s t nhin, dn s v chnh tr x ng Ngoi. Dn theo Tuyn tp t liu phng Ty. Tr.214-216.
243
244
tr ra pha trc tht bc li. n b dng vi la che ngc.(1) v.v. Cc
dng nn vn c k tha vo
ghi chp, m t ny hon ton khp vi nhng bc v ngi Giao Ch,
thi Nguyn, c khc ha trong
Qung Nam trong Boxer Codex (1590).
K thut ca ngi An Nam. Phm
1. Ngi Vit thi L Trung Hng trong Hong Thanh

chc cng ; 2. ng s, ng quan, ng T bnh vn,
N quan nghnh hn trong K thut ca ngi An Nam.
Bc v ngi An Nam trong Hong Thanh chc cng
c ch thch: n ng i m c trng ln, hnh
nh ci vc p, mc o trng lnh thng, tay cm qut
chui, x giy m i. Ngi ngho th mc o ngn, i
chn t, cn c cy cy. Ph n qu tc xa tc, khng
ci trm, tai eo kim hon [] Ph n ly kh vi che
u, o di vt di, i giy l gt, gp nhau th ly tru
cau lm l, gii cc vic thu tha, bp nc.
nn rng vnh, nh phng nh tm vn.
Ngoi ra, v phc
nh H k li: Hi ti tm chn
sc che u c trng
tui (khong nm 1776-1777), thy ngi
ca ngi Vit phi k
gi i Ngoan Xc lp
n nn. Vo thi L,
mai ca con gii),
Chu Kh Phi miu t
gii
ngi Vit hay i loi
i nn Tam Giang. Con ci nh
nn nh hnh v c, gi
quan v cc hc tr trng Gim
l Loa lp. Vo thi L s,
th i Phng u i lp (phng
qua ghi nhn ca Ton
u: ci u vung),
th, nn Thy Ma, nn
H hng nh quan m cao tui
mu trng ng, nn sn
th i C Chu lp, tc gi l nn
v.v. l cc dng nn qun
du, trung nin hoc tr tui th
trang. n u thi L
i Lin Dip lp, tc gi l nn l
Trung Hng, nm 1688,
sen. n ng, n b, s th trong
theo m t ca William
kinh thnh u i C Chu lp,
Dampier,
Vit
i Tiu Lin Dip lp, tc gi l
ng ta nhn thy lc
nn nh khun. n ng n b
ny thng u trn,
thn qu i Xun Li tiu lp, tc
khng my khi i nn
gi l nn s nh. Qun lnh i
m, ngoi tr khi tri
Tro lp, tc gi l nn cho vnh.
ma; ch c nhng ngi
Ngi hu h v v con qun lnh
dn chi v th thuyn
i Vin u lp (vin u: ci u trn),
mi thng xuyn i
tc gi l nn kha. Nh s v o
(2)
ngi
Song Nishikawa Joken,
245
(ngoan xc:
tc gi l nn mu
(nn c mu ta mu con gii)
hoc
tc gi l nn l.
s i Cu Din lp
(cu: ci l bt c),
MT S LOI NN TRONG
K THUT CA NGI AN NAM
1. Nn Trung k; Nn ny ngi Trung

k i; Nn nh hiu. 2. Nn tiu phu; 3.
Ngi nh qu i nn ny; 4. Nn sn.
Nhiu nho s v thng nhn i. Bn
trong lm bng l, bn ngoi dng l tre
tt li, ri sc bng sn. 5. Nn n b,
tc gi l ba tm; 6. Nn inh phu, n
ng nh ngho i nn ny che ma
nng. 7. Nn Bc Ninh, di lm bng vi
xanh; 8. Nn hn l, ngy xa n du
th dng, nay thay i; 9. Nn nh s.
Ngi c tang cng dng.
tc gi ca Hoa Di thng thng kho, li c ghi nhn hon ton tri
tc gi l nn mt l. Ngi c tang
ngc vi William Dampier. ng cho bit khong nhng nm 1645,
i Xun Li i lp, tc gi l nn cp. Ngi tang mt nm tr
(3)
ngi Vit h i b th t i nn . V theo ghi nhn ca Phm nh
xung i C Chu lp, buc thm quai my. Ring nh quyn th c
H c th thy n cui thi L Trung Hng, cc dng nn ht sc
tang th i Cu Din lp phn bit. n nh hai vng Thanh Ngh
phong ph v ph bin trong dn gian Vit Nam. Trong c nhiu
th ngi ta u i Vin C lp
(vin c: ci st trn),
tc gi l nn Ngh.
Ngi Mn Nng ngoi trn u i Tim Quang u Nhc lp,

2. Mt chuyn du hnh n ng Ngoi nm 1688. Tr.61.

3. (Nht) Tng b Hoa Di thng thng kho - Q.3 - Giao Ch. Tr.11. Nguyn vn:
hnh nh nn kha m chp nhn, lm bng v mng na, l khc vi

ngi t ching. n khong nm Nhm Dn, Qu Mo (1782-1783)
qun Tam ph lm lon, cy cng lm cn, nhiu ngi i nn Vin
246
C ln vi lnh, dn chuyn thnh tc. n nm Bnh Ng (1786)
c coi l p(1). V hn 100 nm sau,
trong nc c bin, li b Vin C i Cu Din, ngi tang mt
nm 1792, ngi Vit vng ng Trong
nm tr xung, buc quai si trng phn bit. thn qu th phng
quan nim tc ngn khng nhng
theo dng nn Ngoan Xc m h thp phn trn xung, gi l Toan
b coi nh du hiu ca s th tc, m
B lp, tc gi l nn v ba. Thnh thong c ngi i Xun Li tiu
cn l biu th ca s thoi ha(2)
lp, cn nhng nn nh nn Ngoan Xc, Tam Giang, Phng u, C

Chu, Lin Dip v Tro lp th khng thy na.
(1)
247
Nh vy, quan nim v mi tc

ca ngi Vit thi L s thay i so
vi ngi thi Trn, v cng hon ton
khc bit so vi ngi thi L Trung
Hng. Vo thi L Trung Hng, theo
Alexandre de Rhodes, triu nh nh
L ra lnh t nay dn ng Ngoi
khng kt tc bc trong li trn u
nh ngi Tu, v t ra c lp, h
b tc di ta trn vai.(3) Cha Marini
Lch s t nhin, dn s v chnh tr x ng Ngoi nm 1778 (Jerome Richard) cho bit: Dn

chng khng mc qun o cho tr con khi chng di 6, 7 tui. Mt vi ngi khoc ln chng mt
ci o ch di n rn. a phn bn tr con x ny hon ton trn trung.
2. Kiu tc
cng ghi nhn di thi Bc thuc (ch

thi thuc Minh),
c n ng v ph n
u tc bi cao nhng khi thot khi
Cnh dy hc thi L Trung Hng

(Ging hc , th k XVIII, Bo tng
Lch s Vit Nam) v thi Nguyn.
ch h, h th tc xung v i chn
Sau lnh cm co trc i vi nhng ngi khng phi s si vo
trn nh l biu tng ca s t do.(4)
nm 1470, thi tc co trc trong dn gian dn bin mt. Theo Jean-
Ngha l triu nh cm dn gian bi tc
Baptiste, vo nm 1642, ngi Vit lc ny cho rng u trc l mt
tht Vng cn nh phong tc ca ngi
hnh ng xc phm n danh d, v ch c nhng k phm ti hnh s,
Minh. Lc ny, ngi Vit hu ht u
khi b bt mi b co trc u. Ring tc ct tc ngn t nht vn tip
tc di, bung xa trn vai.
tc c ngi Vit duy tr n tn nm 1513 vi ghi nhn ca s thn
Chng ta c th kim chng tc
nh Minh, Phan Hy Tng. Chng ta hin cha r tc ct tc ngn chnh
xa tc qua mt lot t liu tranh tng
thc bin mt vo nm no, ch bit hn 80 nm sau, nm 1621, sau khi
thi L Trung Hng, cng nh v s
nh L Trung Hng thnh lp, Christophoro Borri ghi nhn ngi Vit
nhng ghi chp ca cc nh du hnh, s
tc xa v r xung vai, c ngi tc di chm t, cng di cng
thn ngoi quc m t dung mo ngi

Vit th k XVII, XVIII, nh nm 1621,
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Lp. Nguyn vn:
Ca nng cm n y th k XVIII.
(Bo tng M thut Vit Nam; nh
Ngoi, Thanh Lit, H Ni. nh: TQ).
Christophoro Borri ghi nhn H cng

tc di nh n b, cho xa tc ti gt
1. X ng Trong nm 1621. Tr. 54.

2. Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792-1793). Tr. 83.
3. Lch s vng quc ng Ngoi. Tr.4.
4. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.58.
chn v cng i nn; nm 1685 Samuel Baron m t Bt lun nam
ca
Samuel
hay n u mi tc di thng xung.
bc
Triu
(1)
248
Nm 1688, William Dampier
Baron,
phc
249
cng miu t:Tc h en, di v rt dy, xa xung tn vai [] Rng
quan vn v ti vng
h en ht mc h c th lm c, v h coi y l mt li trang im cao
ph ca Jean Baptiste
qu. L Tin Cn (1621-1690) ngi thi Thanh cho bit: Ngi nc
Tavernier, hnh quan
y xa tc, dng sp thm chi tc nn khng b bung, i t, song chn
vn
khng c bi bn, chng bi t u l ct sch. Nm 1691, triu thn
Nhng khu truyn gio
Mn m tr li vua Triu Tin Tc Tng v phong tc ca ngi Vit, p
ca cha Marini, qua m
rng: Bt k ngi sang k hn u bung xa mi tc, nhai tru cau lun
t ca s thn Han Tae
ming, i p vi khch cng khng ngng, rng u en nh sn. Tnh
Dong nm 1713: M
cch ca h i knh kiu dng dng nhng khi gp g giao tip cng
Sa, o c trn, ai tht,
rt bit l ngha, khim nhng.(4)
phm trt i nh ch nc ta, duy c vic xa tc bung ra pha
(2)
(3)
quan
trong
Tranh chn dung Phng Khc Khoan th ti nh th h Phng,

Thch Tht, H Ni.
sau ri i m ln l him thy m thi(1), qua m t ca s thn Seo

Ho Su nm 1713: Quan An Nam bi tc, bung xa phn cn li ra sau,
ri mi i m Sa(2). Thm ch Phng Khc Khoan khi vo chu vua
Minh bi tc theo phong tc ca thin triu, song ngay sau khi v s
qun ng lp tc r b ngay. S thn Triu Tin L Toi Quang miu
t: ng tuy rt gi nhng sc lc cn khe, thng c sch vit lch
khng ngng. Gp ngy triu hi vo chu ca khuyt th bi tc i m,
nht nht noi theo phc sc ca thin triu, nhng nom sc mt ng c
v nhn nh kh chu, va v l ci b ngay. C on hai mi ba ngi
u xa tc. Ngi cao sang th sn rng, k h tin th mc o ngn i
t, d vo ma ng vn i t, khng x tt di. Chng phong tc ca
h l vy.(3)
Tuy c thi quen bung xa tc di, nhng khi cn gn gng thun
Chn dung cc gio s ngi Vit nm 1688, v bi Carlo Maratta. (Dn theo Siam and the Vatican in the seventeenth century).
V chung bung xa mi tc di, khng t v quan nh L khi vo
tin, mt cch ht sc t nhin, ngi Vit li bi mt bi tc sau u.

Khong nhng nm 1695, nh s Thch i Sn m t nhng ngi Vit
ng Trong trn thuyn u ci trn xa tc, dng mnh vi qun
chu u xa tc i m, hoc bi mt phn tc, phn cn li bung

xa. Kiu tc ny ta c th kim chng qua bc tranh Ph cha Trnh
1. M t vng quc ng Ngoi. Tr.108.
2. Mt chuyn du hnh n ng Ngoi nm 1688. Tr.59.
3. (Trung) An Nam truyn, An Nam tp k, An nam k du - An Nam tp k. Tr.1. Nguyn vn:
4. (Hn) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc - Tc Tng - Q.23 - Mc ngy t Du mng 5 thng 12 nm th
17 triu vua Tc Tng. Nguyn vn:
1. (Hn) Yn hnh lc - Hn Thi ng - Lng th Yn hnh lc. Tr.233. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i
Minh y quan kim h ti. S hc nguyt san. K 10 - 2005. Nguyn vn:
2. (Hn) Yn hnh k - Q.2. Tr.459. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i Minh y quan kim h ti, S hc nguyt
san. K 10 - 2005. Nguyn vn:
3. (Hn) Chi Phong tin sinh tp - Q.8 - An Nam quc s thn xng ha vn p lc - Hu. Nguyn vn:
. Mt s bn dch hin nay dch b pht l bi tc. Cch dch nh vy hon

ton sai lc. B pht , phi pht u c ngha l xa tc.
250
che pha trc, gin hoc cng c
giy l gt, gp nhau i tru cau, gii cc vic thu tha nu nng.(1)
ngi bi tc chuy k tin lm
Alexandre de Rhodes cng ghi nhn ph n Vit nhng nm 1625-1645
lng, rng u en [] Mt thuyn
dng the lm khn trm u(2).
tip n c v quan cng xa tc i

chn t .
(1)
tranh nh cho thy khng t nam gii
Vi mi tc di bung xa, nh
ngi Vit xa tc, ng thi co mt
giu qu tc thi L Trung Hng
vnh tc trn trn thp. Gii thch
thng dng mt vung vi ln ph
ngha ca vic co tc ny, hin c bn
ln u, tng t cc quan triu
nhm quan im sau:
Trn qua m t ca Trn Cng
A. Co tc khi c tang, nn thi k
Trung, hay truy xa hn l li th sc
c tang gi l thi tang tc. Tc gi sch
ca vua L Nhn Tng trong miu
Sn c tp thut cho bit tc ngi mn
t ca L Tc dng la ph ln
mng Vit Nam cui thi L, vo
u, git kim bc ln Cu trng
ngy thnh phc, cc con u co u,
i . Li dng khn ph mang
b cht m cn th co mt na. n khi
m m hng Pht gio ny xut
ng phc, xem mi quan h thn hay s
hin kh nhiu qua tranh tng
m co tc nhiu hay t. Nay t kinh k
thi L Trung Hng, v c minh
cng c ngi theo tc ny, gi l Tang
chng qua miu t ca s thn
tc(3). Jean-Baptiste Tavernier cho bit,
Triu Tin L Toi Quang v Chnh
vo nm 1681, vua mi (tc thi t ni ngi, con vua qu c) ct tc, u
s i Vit Phng Khc Khoan: S
i m rm(4) Cha s Marini cho bit, vo khong nhng nm 1646 -
thn h Phng, tn Khc Khoan,
1658, khi c tang, ngi Vit ct tc t lng tn knh(5) Tuy nhin
hiu l Ngh Trai, tui hn by
ghi nhn ca Sn c tp thut, Jean Baptiste Tavernier v cha Marini
mi, hnh dong rt l, sn rng xa
(ct hoc co tc khi c tang) li
tc, o di tay thng, dng c kh
Rhodes (ngy thng co tc, khi c tang th khng co). Alexandre de Rhodes
vi en ph ln u nh kiu khn
cho bit v cch tang th c s khc nhau v k d v o mc; cch
nh s, cho mt na kh r ra
thng thng v chung cho mi ngi l tc. Phi nam khng c tang
ng sau qu vai.(3) Hong Thanh
th tc pha trc ct na vng trn trn trn, khi c tang th tc
chc cng cng m t: n b
di xung ti mt, kh vng. Tri li phi n c tang th ct mt phn
(2)
1-2. Tng Trn Th v Trn Th Dung

(cha Cu ng, H Ni); 3-4. Tng cha
Bt Thp, Bc Ninh (nh: TQ); 5. V
chnh s mc Mng bo mu trng, ph khn
iu, ng u on cng s i Vit thi
L Trung Hng trong Vn quc lai triu
(ha phm thi Cn Long. Bo tng C cung
Bc Kinh. nh: H Nh ); 6. Mnh ph An
Nam (Hong Thanh chc cng ).
Ngoi ra, qua mt s s liu v
Ngi ng Kinh (H Ni) trong Hi

ngoi ch o thuyt.
mu thun vi ghi nhn ca Alexandre de
giu sang xa tc, khng ci trm,

tai eo kim hon [] n b dng khn ph u, o di, vt di, i
1. (Trung) Hi ngoi k s - Q.1. Tr.12. Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - C tch - Cu trng i. Nguyn vn:
3. (Hn) Chi Phong tin sinh tp - Q.8 - An Nam quc s thn xng ha vn p lc - Hu. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) Hong Thanh chc cng - An Nam quc. Tr.15-17. Nguyn vn:
[]
2. T in Vit - B - La. Mc t The. Tr.218
3. (Vit) Sn c tp thut - Q.2 - Man lo phong tc. Nguyn vn:
Thnh phc ch tang
phc thn quyn mc sau khi ngi cht c nhp lim.
4. Tp du k mi v k th v vng quc ng Ngoi (1681). Tr.85
5. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.82
251
252
tc khng cho di ra,
kiu tc Sakayaki
sut ba nm tang nu l
chng qua hnh nh ngi Giao Ch trong Ha Hn
ngi ga ba th cm
tam ti hi v bc tranh chn dung Quc uy cng
v b pht nng nu ti
Nguyn Phc Thun (1653 - 1675). TQ ch)
gi trong thi gian ny,
Ngi ng Kinh li ging Trung Hoa
gi l thi tang tc(1),
hn ngi Giao Ch, song khng co
tang cha hay m
tc vng trn, m bi tc li, tc co
cht, trong thi k ,
tc vng trn gn y cng nhiu.
n ng khng co tc
cng en nh ngi Giao Ch.(1) Tuy
pha trn v pha trc
nhin, theo ghi nhn ca Alexandre
u(2).
B. Co tc l tp
tc lu hnh ti vng
Ngi ng Kinh (H Ni) trong Vn quc nhn vt

thuyt (1720) v Tng b Hoa di thng thng kho (1708).
(kiu tc ny c th i
253
[]
Rng th
de Rhodes v hnh v trong Boxer

Codex do ngi Philipines thc hin
nm 1590, ngi ng Kinh trong Vn
Ngi ng Kinh trong Vn quc nhn

vt (1645).
ng Trong. Theo Terajima Ryan, tc gi Ha Hn tam ti hi:
quc nhn vt (1645),
Ngi Giao Ch (ng Trong) n ng th co tc vng huyt Bch Hi
r rng t nhng nm
[] ng Kinh tc l kinh ca Giao Ch. H vn l anh em, ti thi
1590 1645 vng ng
con chu giao tranh nn Giao Ch v ng Kinh phn lm hai nc.
Ngoi lu hnh tc
Ranh gii hai nc c ngn ni tn gi K Mu (c l ch ni u Mu,
co tc ny.
C. Co tc theo tc
phn chia vng ng Trong ng Ngoi

thi Trnh Nguyn phn tranh) [...]Ngi
ca ngi Thanh. Tc gi
ng Kinh (ng Ngoi) cng ging
Nam s t k v Lo song
ngi Giao Ch, song khng co tc
th lc, nhng ngi
nh u m li bi tc(3). Nishikawa
sng u thi Nguyn
Jyoken, tc gi Hoa Di thng thng
cho rng triu nh nh
kho cho bit, vo nhng nm 1695
L phi xin nh Thanh
(Ngi ng Trong) trang phc khc

vi ngi ng ngy nay (ngi Mn
Ngi Hi An nm 1609 trong Chu n thuyn hi quyn.
cho co mt na mi tc:
Thanh Th t ln ngi,
nhng li ging kiu trang
t nin hiu Thun Tr (ti v 16431661), thng nht thin h, thay
phc thi Minh. Sc mt h hi en.
i y phc Trung Quc. Ph lo Trung Quc n ca khuyt, xin lu
u tc ging nam gii Nht Bn, h
li mt nm tc lm vt tch. Nc Nam ta xin co mt na, gi l
co mt t tc vng Bch Hi nh
khoi gii co(2) (khoi theo T in Vit B -La ngha l nh u). y l
1. Lch s vng quc ng Ngoi. Tr.53

2. T in Vit B - La. Mc t Tang tc. Tr. 211. Bn dch ting Vit dch t radunt (nguyn tc) l ct,
y chng ti sa li thnh t co.
3. (Nht) Ha Hn tam ti hi Q.13 D quc nhn vt Giao Ch, ng Kinh. Tr.30. Nguyn vn:
[]
[]
1. (Nht) Tng b Hoa Di thng thng kho Q.3 Giao Ch, ng Kinh. Tr.11 Tr.14. Nguyn vn:
...
2. (Vit) Nam s t k Chn Tng Thun hong . Nguyn vn :

Thanh),
Ngi ng Kinh v Giao Ch trong
Ha Hn tam ti hi.
254
quan nim sai lm. Bi t liu cho thy
D. Co tc l mt trong nhng cch
tc co tc xut hin ti Vit Nam
nh du nhm phn bit binh lnh vi
trc khi nh Thanh thnh lp. Bn
dn thng. Ghi nhn ca An Nam k du
cnh , cc sch nh Lch i danh
(Thanh, 1688) cho bit: Con trai n tui
thn s trng, Nhn vt ch, Cng d
trng thnh, ph hp vi ngch quy nh
tip k, Danh thn danh nho truyn
phi bin vo qun ng th quan cho co
k u chp: Khi ngi Thanh vo lm
my tc tc trn trn phn bit vi dn(1).
ch Trung Hoa, sai s mang chiu th
Ghi chp trn hon ton khp vi hnh v
n nc ta, lnh cho quc dn u
lnh Giao Ch trong Boxer Codex vi nin i
phi co tc, b trn ly lm lo, lnh
1590 (Philipines).
cho ng Nguyn ng Co n ca
Vi nhng chng c hin c, ch c
quan nghnh n, ng bn lm bi
nhm quan im th t cho rng vic co
Gii ch hu hoc vn ni r t,
ngi Thanh mi thi .
(1)
Tuy nhin, sau khi ngi Thanh
Qun tng Hi An trong Chu n

thuyn hi quyn (1609).
Binh lnh Giao Ch trong Boxer

Codex (1590).
mt phn tc c thc hin trong qun

i, nhm phn bit qun lnh vi dn
thng, khng tn ti mu thun. Trong cc quan im cn li, chng
giao thng vi ngi Vit, qu nhin c khng t ngi Vit co tc
ti nghing v quan im cho rng, mt b phn ngi Vit co tc khi
bt chc ngi Thanh, khin triu nh nh L phi nhiu ln ra lnh:
c tang, do thi k c tang c gi l thi tang tc.
Thng nhn phng Bc qua li nc ta, quc dn c nhiu k bt
Ngoi ra cn lu thm rng, trong khi triu thn nh L l L
chc h, bn nghim sc cho ngi phng Bc nhp tch vo nc ta,
Qunh th cht khng chu co tc th Quc Uy cng Nguyn Phc
t ngn ng n y phc, nht nht phi noi theo quc tc ; Nm 1696,
Thun ng Trong li co tc tng t kiu kayasaki ca ngi
Ph Liu li vng mnh truyn rng: phm cc x dn gip a gii
Nht. Triu thn L Qunh sau khi b Phc Khang An d co tc
(2)
ngoi quc, t ngn ng n n mc v c x u nn tun theo dng

v l li v phong tc nc ta, nu co trc u th cng nn bt li mt
mng tc, ch khng c cn by bt chc ting ni v qun o ca
ngi ngoi quc. K no vi phm th cng cho php quan trn ph iu
tra trng tr, nm 1727 li truyn rng con trai trong nc ta, h ai co
tc cng nn theo phong tc nc nh, li ci chm t ra phn bit.
K no vi phm th cho php quan lu th hoc quan lnh pht ngay
10 trng.(3)
1. (Vit) Cng d tip k Danh thn - Nguyn ng Co k. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Vit s - Q.3 Huyn Tng, Gia Tng. Tr. 41. Nguyn vn:
Sch Cng mc thi Nguyn cng c ghi chp tng t, song c mt vi ch xut nhp (
)
3. (Vit) Lch triu tp k. Tr. 245, 243.
Ngi Hi An (Chu n thuyn hi quyn).
1. (Trung) An Nam k du. Nguyn vn:
255
256
tc gin tr li: Bn ta u c th cht, ch
knh(1). Cha Marini ng Ngoi vo giai on 1646 - 1658 cho bit:
tc khng th co, da c th lt, ch y phc
H bung xa tc xung vai th hin phm gi v s knh trng.
khng th thay!
n nm Gia Long th 3
Khi xut hin trc mt nh vua hoc ngi c cao vng trng, nu
(nm 1804), L Qunh c th v nc, sau
ang buc tc th h phi nhanh chng th tc ra. Nu khng, h s b
thng xa tc, mc o cu, du ngon
quan ct tc(2). Thanh triu vn hin thng kho cng ghi nhn: Yt
cha i ng, Hi Dng. Tc gi Vn
kin bc tn qu th qu gi ly ba ly. Ngu nhin gp t bung nn
nang tiu s ca ngi, mi my nm tri
xa tc, khng lm nh vy l bt knh.(3)
(1)
Trung Quc mnh mng, xa tc r o di

duy ch c mt mnh ng m thi(2). iu
chng t, so vi ng Ngoi, tc co tc
c n nhn v lu hnh rng ri hn
Chn dung Quc Uy cng

Nguyn Phc Thun.
vng ng Trong, trc khi din ra cuc ci

cch v u tc trang phc thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot.
Bn cnh , vi ring kiu tc ca ph n, Phm nh H cn
cho bit: Ph n nc ta (cui L u Nguyn) ch dng khn l giu tc,
gp bc tn trng th xa tc t lng tn knh(3). Da vo ghi nhn
ca Phm nh H, i chiu vi pho tng th n cha Du (Bc
Ninh), c th thy vo cui thi L, tc dng la bc tc vn quanh
u nh hnh v ph
bin trong mt b phn
ph n Vit. Ring vic
xa tc t lng tn
knh,
Jerome
Richard
nm 1778 cng ghi nhn:

Nam gii v ph n
thng bi tc cao v gn
vo mt ci n pha
sau u. Nhng khi h
Trang phc ca v cng thi L Trung Hng v thi Nguyn.
xut hin trc b trn,

Tng th n cha Du (Bc Ninh).
h li xo tc t tn
1. (Vit) Hong L nht thng ch thp tam hi. Nguyn vn:

Mc thng 4 nm 1789 trong Cng mc cng c ghi chp tng t.
2. (Vit) Vn nang tiu s - Trng phi hu. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. Ngun t liu th tch phng Ty vi tin trnh lch s Thng Long H Ni. Tr.216
2. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.63
3. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Q.296 - T du t. Tr. 7450. Nguyn vn:
257
khng nh vy. Hn ba mi nm, ngi ta
Ph kho
258
u quen, qun c tc c.(1)

i Vit s k tc bin chp: Li nhn
CI CCH Y PHC NG TRONG NM 1744 -
c ngi truyn c cu sm rng tm i
S RA I V QU TRNH PH CP CA O DI NM THN
quay v trung , cha bn i phong tc, i

y phc, h lnh cho quan dn hai x Thun
K t nm 1545, sau khi xin vo
Qung u n mc theo th ch nh Minh,
trn th vng Thun Ha, Nguyn
c nc cng i mi. Duy nin hiu vn
Hong cng con chu ng khng ngng
theo Cnh Hng, cha t nin hiu ring.(2)
m mang b ci, pht trin ng Trong,
Trnh Hoi c cho bit: Nm Mu
tng bc c lp vi chnh quyn ng
Ng, Th Tng Hiu V Hong nguyn
Ngoi ca cha Trnh. n i th 8,

Ghi chp v ci cch y phc thi
cha Nguyn Phc Khot trong
sch Gia nh thnh thng ch
(Tr.369) ca Trnh Hoi c.
Hiu Quc cng Nguyn Phc Khot t

xng vng, thc thi cc sc lnh thay
i triu nghi phm phc trong cung
xa b thi tc h lu ca ng Ngoi,
vn hin!(3)
trang phc thi V vng l mt cuc
Theo Bi Dng Lch, Cha Nguyn nhiu i c tha hng
ci cch quan trng, c nh hng su
thi bnh, n i Hiu V vng thi cng thnh, dng y phc Bc

Kim n truyn quc ca nh Nguyn.
i Vit quc Nguyn cha vnh trn
chi bo (Kim ngc bo t).
L Qu n cho bit: Nm th 5 nin hiu Cnh Hng (1744), Hiu

Quc cng nhn li sm truyn ca ngi Ngh An rng tm i quay v
trung , lin ngh t thi oan Quc cng n mnh va ng tm
i, bn xng vng, sai ly th ch o m trong sch Tam ti hi lm
m thc, lnh cho cc quan v t chng dinh n cai i, quan vn t
qun b n chim hu, hun o u tun theo kiu dng mu sc quy
nh, o u dng on mu, ngi sang dng Mng bo c thu hoa
vn sng nc, m trang sc bng vng bc. Li lnh cho trai gi hai
x
(Thun Ha, Qung Nam)
mi (ch nh Thanh) nh trang phc ca cc
Minh, xa ht thi tc h lu ca Bc H, tr thnh mt nc o m
vn hin o m rc r. S kin ci cch
ngi Vit triu Nguyn v sau.
n ch i Minh v kiu dng ca ch
Trang phc nh ca dng trong dn gian i nh th ch i
bin ng Trong tr thnh mt nc c
ca ngi Vit ng Trong cng nh
v b quan tham chc cc i Hn ng
phm quan da theo hi in ban hnh ngy nay, vn cht y.
nh v qun o trong dn gian, nhm
rng ti trang phc cng nh phong tc
nin, ci nh sc phc, quan phc ca vn
i dng qun o Bc quc t s thay i.
n ph n u mc o ngn hp tay ging o nam gii th Bc quc
triu, li hc c kiu cch ca ma ca Bc triu na.(4)

i Nam thc lc chp: Cha cho rng li sm c ni tm i tr li
trung , bn i y phc, thay phong tc, cng dn i mi; chm chc
ch cc i, nh Triu phc vn v, vn t qun b n chim hu,
hun o; v t chng dinh n cai i, m sc vng bc, o dng Mng
bo hoc gm on theo cp bc. Th l vn vt mt phen i mi. (5)
2. (Vit) i Vit s k tc bin. Tr.201.

3. (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch. Tr.369. Nguyn vn:
,
4. (Vit) L qu dt s. Tr.27.
259
260
Gio s Jean Koffler, ngi Tip ng Trong t nm 1740 n nm
ch ca cc triu i Hn, ng,
1755, trong Lch s x ng Trong cho bit: Cha bt b li qun o th
Tng, Minh, Thanh, c bit l Tam
b ca ngi ng Ngoi m chm chc theo li qun o ca ngi
ti hi ca Vng K thi Minh.
Tu.(1)
Nm 1744 cng l thi im nh du
c bit, D s lc bin
s xut hin ca qun chn o cht,
i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc
b trang phc ban u p dng ti
lc ghi nhn: Cha cho rng
hai vng Thun Ha, Qung Nam, v
li sm c c ni tm i quay
sau c ph bin rng ri trong ton
li trung , tnh t thi Thi
quc, tng bc tr thnh quc phc

ca triu Nguyn. Nh vy, li tng
T n nay va ng con s y,
truyn Chnh Lc Kh Hu (o Duy T)
bn thay y phc, i phong tc,
trong khi by mu nh k chng c
cng dn i mi, bt u h
vi h Trnh, khuyn cha Hy Tng
lnh cho nam n s th trong

nc, u mc o nhu bo, mc
qun, vn khn, tc gi qun
chn o cht bt u t y.
Trang phc nh ca dng
Ph n thi Nguyn nm 1918 mc o nm thn.

(nh: Albert Kahn).
hi ging th ch Minh Thanh,

thay i ht thi c h lu ca Bc H, thay i quan phc tham kho
ch ca cc triu i Trung Quc, ch ra phm phc Thng triu,
i triu, ly lm m thc, ban hnh trong nc, vn cht v, tr
thnh nc o m vn vt vy!(2)
Tng hp cc ghi chp
trn c th thy, ci cch
nm 1744 l mt cuc ci
cch ln v y phc cung
nh v dn gian din ra trn
ton ci ng Trong. Ngun
tham kho chnh t
nh y phc l cc sch Hi
Nh vn L Tn, Trung Quc mc o trng qui.
in ghi chp in chng
1. Dn theo o Duy Anh. Vit Nam vn ha s cng. Quan hi tng th. 1938. Tr.121.
Ti cung nh, trong khi cc quan nh

L xa tc, i t vo chu vua (phn
bit vi ngi Minh) th t ci cch nm
1744 v sau, quan nh Nguyn u bi
tc, tht Vng cn, i hia theo quy ch
ca nh Minh (phn bit vi quan nh
L v ngi Thanh). 1. Ngi Giao Ch
trong Tam ti hi (Th k XV); 2.
Ngi dn Vit trong Trc Lm i s
xut sn (Th k XIV); 3. Lnh cm
nghi trng (Th k XVIII); 4. Ngi
ng Ngoi trong Boxer Codex (Th
k XVI); 5. Lnh ng Trong (Th k
XIX); 6. Lnh i thi Nguyn trong
Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch
tn tht (Th k XIX); 7. nh bng
trong K thut ca ngi An Nam (Th
k XX); 8. Quan nh L vo chu vua
v bi Samuel Baron (Th k XVII).
bt dn thay i tp tc cho khc hn

dn Bc, nh b nn thng, i nn
chp, b qun mu en mc qun mu
nu, n b b o bn thn by ym
m mc o nm thn gi khuy, b tc
bao m bi t, b vy mc qun(1),
m Phan Khoang ghi li trong Vit s:
x ng Trong 1558-1777 nhm ln
thi im din ra cuc ci cch y phc
trng i ny.
Tuy nhin, nu ch trong mt
thi gian ngn ngi dn Thun Ha,
Qung Nam u mc quen qun c
tc c, th ph n Bc H ni chung,
tng lp dn ngho ni ring, phi mt rt nhiu thi gian mi c

th quen c vi dng trang phc mi ny. Thm ch sau khi mc
o di nm thn, n b Bc K theo thi quen mc o t thn, giao
lnh trc y, thng khng ci khuy c o, l c ym mc lt
trong. Chnh s bo th vi trang phc c cu l nguyn nhn chnh
dn n nhng sc lnh cm on y phc gt gao di triu vua Minh
Mng, m cu ca dao Thng Tm c chiu vua ra/ Cm qun khng
1. Vit s: X ng Trong 1558-1777. Tr.615.
261
Quc s di bin ghi

nhn cc sc lnh thng
262
nht y phc trong ton

quc ln lt c triu
nh Minh Mng ban ra
vo cc nm 1828, 1829,
1830, 1832, 1837, 1842.
Trong , thng 5 nm
Ngi Vit thi L Trung Hng trong Hong Thanh chc cng , Hi ngoi ch o thuyt
v Boxer Codex.
y ngi ta hi hng l mt trong nhng minh chng c lu li

trong k c dn gian. Ngoi ra, theo ghi nhn ca Hi in, i Nam
thc lc, Quc s di bin, D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu
thc lc, ni dung ca cc lnh cm y phc thi Minh Mng bao gm
lnh cm o t thn, o giao lnh, kh, vi tht lng v cc dng khn,
m Tin phc ca ngi thi L Trung Hng nh m M V, m Bnh
nh, khn vung, khn bc tc v.v. c bit, o t thn, vy p v
kh b vua Minh Mng coi l cc dng trang phc xu x, h lu, cn
phi ci cch trit . Song, sau thi Minh Mng, chng ta khng thy
c cc chnh sch cm on y phc thm na. y chnh l nguyn
nhn khin cc dng khn kh, vy p vn tip tc c s dng cho
n u th k XX.
i Nam thc lc ghi li vua Gia Long bn vi cc quan v phong
tc vo thng 12 nm 1802 cho bit: Dn Bc H kiu qun o cng
khng p. Phi nn mt phen sa nh mi c th ng nht phong tc.
Nhng sa i phong tc cng phi dn dn.(1)
Hi in ghi li d ca vua Minh Mng nm 1837 cho bit: Trc
y t sng Gianh tr ra ngoi, y phc vn noi theo thi tc h lu, nay
c bit ch d, lnh phi thay i theo cch n mc t Qung Bnh tr
vo trong ng nht phong tc [] T Qung Bnh tr vo Nam, qun
o m mo nht nht noi theo ch Hn Minh, trang phc t chnh, so
vi tc c ca ngi min Bc, n ng ng kh, n b mc o giao
lnh, di mc thng trn, p xu chng phi r rng d thy sao?(2)
1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Tp 1. Tr.539.
[]
1830, Bc thnh Ph tng

trn Phan Vn Thy li
Ch Khch mc o di (K thut ca ngi An Nam);
n ng v n b Nam k nm 1859 (Vit Nam qua tranh
khc Php).
nu r iu cm v qun
o. Cm n ng i m
di, m Bnh Thin, m
Yn V, o trng lnh (tc giao lnh) thng tay v ng kh quanh eo

i. n b khng c dng vi, la ngn qun u, khng c
dng tht lng to, nh v mc qun khng y.(1) Thng 10 nm 1832
triu nh li ban lnh cm qun o Bc thnh: Ph n khng c
i khn vung v tht lng. Ai tri lnh eo gng mt thng.(2) Thng
1 nm 1842, triu nh tip tc ra lnh cm o qun Bc H. Quan tnh
H Ninh cho rng: xa gi ra Bc, m Bc K qun o cha c nht t,
bn nhc li lnh nghim cm trc, bt nhn dn Bc K u theo th
ch Nam K m may mc.(3)
D s lc bin i
Vit quc Nguyn triu
thc lc cn cho bit mt
trong nhng sc lnh ca
vua Minh Mng l cm
n ng ng kh, n
b khng c mc vy
kim o t thn; nht
B gi tp n tru. (nh: Albert Kahn).
1. (Vit) Quc s di bin - Tp trung. Tr.87a. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Quc s di bin - Tp trung. Tr.104b. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Quc s di bin - Tp h. Tr.17a. Nguyn vn:
263
264
lot u dng qun chn v o nm thn theo lnh ca Hiu V
ng tay o rt di v rng, ph kn c hai bn tay.(1) ng thi
Hong nm xa Thun Ha.(1)
cng chnh l tin thn ca chic o di c ng ci khuy hp tay,
Bn cnh cc cm lnh y phc c cu ca ngi min Bc, nh
c coi nh quc phc ca Vit Nam vo thi Nguyn. Ngoi ra, L
Nguyn cn ban b sc lnh thng nht
Qu n cho bit khi p dng vo ng Trong, a s nam n u mc
trang phc nam n trong ton quc, yu
o hp tay. Song thc t cho thy, trc th k XX, o di hp tay phn
cu ngi Bc H phi nht lot s dng
ln lu hnh trong dn gian, quan li v qu tc c nhiu ngi vn
li trang phc chun mc ca ngi min
chung mc o thng tay.
trong: qun chn, o cht. Qua mt s truyn
Nh vy, dng o c ng ci khuy kt hp vi qun hai ng l
Nm nh Quan m Th Knh: Qun chn o
dng trang phc c ph bin ti vng ng Trong Vit Nam t nm
cht du dng/ Gi hnh nam t ai tng cn
1744. Ch sau khi nh Nguyn thng nht t nc, c bit di triu
nguyn (2), hay truyn N t ti: Qun chn
vua Minh Mng, b trang phc ny mi tng bc thay th cc dng
o cht ci khuy/ Tr hnh lm ng nam nhi,
trang phc c cu ca ng Ngoi, tr thnh trang phc chung cho n
hc hnh , c th thy qun chn o cht
ng v n b, thng c gi vi ci tn ngn gn l o di.
(3)
Chn dung Phan Thanh Gin.
khi mi bt u p dng ch c nam gii tun

th. V sau, do nhng sc lnh v y phc
ngy mt gt gao, ph n Bc H mi dn dn thun theo.

Qun chn ch loi qun c hai ng chn phn bit vi loi qun
khng y, chic vy c cu ca ph n Vit trc kia; o cht cn
c gi l o nm thn, ch loi o c
may bng nm kh vi (vt trc hai kh, vt
sau hai kh, thn bn phi di ra mt kh ngn,
tng cng nm kh, gi l nm thn),
phn bit
vi cc dng o c may bng bn kh

vi nh o t thn, o giao lnh. y chnh
l dng o ph bin ng Trong qua m
o nm thn sa kp tin phc ca Hong thi t

v Cng cha triu Nguyn (Bu vt triu Nguyn).
t ca Chapman nm 1778: n ng v
ph n Nam H u mc nhng b
c thit k theo cch ging nhau. y l
nhng b khim tn nht m ti tng
c thy, chng ch gm mt o di th
lng, c nh ci cc, bt cho trn ngc,
trng khng khc g mt chic o di ng,
Tng c H ng Hong Trng

Phu. (nh: Albert Kahn).
2. Quc vn trch dim. Tr.172.

3. Vit Nam thi vn hp tuyn. Tr.365.
1. Relation dun voyage en Cochin-Chine en 1778. Tr.61.
265
267
Chng IV. TRANG PHC THI ty sn
Hn ba chc nm, sau ci cch l nghi phm phc din ra trn ton
ci ng Trong, anh em Ty Sn khi ngha. Qua nhng ghi chp m t
cc dng trang phc, m mo ca vua quan Ty Sn, t vic cht khn
vo ngy thng ti vic s dng cc loi m Xung Thin, Sa, Phc
u, Vn Cng, cc dng Long bo, Mng bo, B phc v.v. vo cc ngy
triu h, c th bc u nhn nh, phm phc triu Ty Sn chu
nh hng t ci cch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot, c nhiu nt tng
ng vi quy ch o m ca triu Nguyn Gia Long v sau.
I. Trang phc cung nh
i vi trang phc ca triu
nh Nguyn Nhc ( ngi t nm
1778 n nm 1793),
qua miu t
ca Chapman, c th thy trong

nhng bui thit triu, Thi c
Nguyn Nhc i m Xung
Thin nh trang sc bng vng
v bo thch, mc Long bo mu
vng sm; b quan trong triu
i nhng chic m c trang
sc bng vng bc, mc Mng
bo, eo ai lng. Chapman cho
bit: Nh vua mc mt chic o
Tng vua Quang Trung cha Bc (H Ni) v

hai v triu thn phi hng u i m Xung
Thin, B phc K Ln, theo m tp to tng Tk
XVIII. (nh: TQ).
di bng la vng m, thu nhng con rng v nhng k hiu bng ch

vng. ng i mt chic m cht, pha sau nh ln, pha trc trang tr
nhng chu bu - ni bt ln trn nhng chu bu l mt vin
ln l lng trn khng, cch phn pha trc m ny 135 mm v c gi
268
vng bng mt si dy vng xuyn qua. Mi ln u ca nh vua c ng
thu bn rng , cn cho theo phc
l mi ln vin ny rung rung v sng rc ln. Phn ln cc v quan
sc ca A Ca, thng Mng bo vng
u mc o di la c mu sc khc nhau, thu hnh nhng con rng, m
kim, t r s bit i(1), nhng
h i c trang tr bng nhng bng hoa bng vng hoc m vng. H
vua quan nh Thanh u khng
eo ai lng, mt vi ngi mc o di rng hn mu hng iu c khuy
ng dng thc Mng bo Nguyn
mc bng vng v c trang tr m no hng nh vo cng th kim
Quang Bnh gi sang l dng o
loi. B ngoi ca h nom thc s p mt v d cn thiu rt nhiu v uy
c trn theo quy ch Hn(2). Tuy
nghi, lng ly nh cc hong thn phng ng khc, khung cnh vn
nhin, xut pht t tnh cm c
khin ta c cm gic mt v vua quyn lc c qun thn bao quanh
bit dnh cho Quang Trung, Cn
ang hin din. Trang phc ca binh lnh th mi hai lnh gc, mc
Long khng nhng khng khin
d mu xanh l, i mt th nh l m ct (casque: m bo him) bc giy

sn c trang tr bng nhng bng hoa v nhng ha tit bng st trng
sm en, ging trn chui kim v bao kim ca h.
trch m cn t nh rng: Trm

bit tc nc y xa nay theo quy
ch Hn, y phc u tc u khng
(1)
i vi trang phc ca vua Quang
th thay i c Qua Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in , c
Trung Nguyn Hu ( ngi t nm 1788
th thy hnh tng vua Quang Trung gi xut hin trong tranh i m
Thanh thc lc cho bit,
Xung Thin nh trang sc bng vng trn m, mc Long bo mu
loi ai tht quc vng nc y dng
thu hoa vn rng my, sng nc theo dng thc bo phc thnh hnh
trong nc l ai nn , nay mun gia
ti Trung Quc v Vit Nam vo th k XVII, XVIII.
n nm 1792),
ban ai nn vng t r s bit i ,

(2)
ng thi cho bit Nguyn Quang Bnh
Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in

. (China: The Three Emperors 1662
- 1795).
M Ng lng Kim quan ca Triu Tin. (Bo

tng C cung Quc lp Seoul).
(3)
Tn mt gp g s thn Ty Sn v v vua Quang Trung c ng

th, cc s thn Triu Tin c nhng miu t nh sau:
(ch ngi ng gi vua Quang Trung sang nh Thanh)
Seo Ho Su (T Ho Tu) cho bit: Ban triu h in Thi Ha v
v nc, khi qua Qung ng, tng ni
ban t l n Tch Nguyt mi thy ci gi l Bn phc. (Bn phc)
thch Mng bo ni a v v hoa m,
th quc vng u cht Vng cn, i Tht Lng Kim quan, mnh mc
bnh sinh cha tng thy bao gi, lin
Long bo mu , tht ai bch ngc. Tng thn (b ti i theo - TQ ch)
mua my tm kinh , li t mua
cng cht Vng cn, i m Ng Lng quan mu en, mc Mng bo, v
H Bc, Hn Khu em v. Nay quc
mu sc c k mc mu xanh, c k mc mu ta, tht ai vng, hoa vn
vng y li gi dng thc sang, xin dt
trn o bo vn vn qui l(4).
Mng bo giao long, lm trang phc triu hi(3) Tng loi Mng bo
Yu Deok Gong (Liu c Cung) ghi nhn: Vua ti Quang Bnh
Quang Trung yu thch l dng o kiu Mn, Cn Long rt mng,

ni nu quc vng ny qu c , trm t c bit gia n, ban cho L
phc. Khng nhng ban cho m nh bo thch mu , o M qui
1. Relation dun voyage en Cochin-Chine en 1778. Tr.30 v 27.
2. (Trung) Thanh thc lc - Cao Tng thc lc - Q.1349. Tr. 32 - 34. Nguyn vn:
4. (Hn) Yn hnh k. Nguyn vn:
269
270
u mc o m Mn Chu [...] Tng
chng ti trnh by ti phn kho v Triu phc ca b quan nh L.
thn l Thng th b Li Phan Huy ch
Lng quan phi vi Long bo, Mng bo l s kt hp c o, c l ch
v Thng th b Cng Ho Trch hu
xut hin triu nh Ty Sn. y c th chnh l quy ch phm phc
V Huy Tn hai ngi, dng ngi thp
mi theo ghi nhn ca t Chiu ln ngi ca vua Quang Trung o m
b, mt mi kh sm, rng tha m en.
vo chu nht nht tun theo quy ch mi.
Nhng ngi i theo cn li cng u nh
Bn cnh , cc dng
th. Coi vy th Quang Bnh l ngi cao
o m ca vua quan Ty Sn
ln ca nc y vy [...] Vua nc y ngu
c cp trong ghi chp
nhin hi s thn nc ta rng cch Nht
ca s thn Triu Tin nh
Bn xa hay gn. S thn p li. Vua nc
Phc u, Sa, Vn Cng,
y nh ni tip th bn Phan Huy ch lic
Mng bo, Long bo, Vng
mt ngn cm, tht ng s vy [...] Bn
cn v.v. u l nhng dng
Phan Huy ch mc o m Mn Chu cng
phc sc c s dng trong
rt bit xu h. Bo rng v nc th khng
triu nh nh Nguyn. iu
nh vy, ngy mi ba, yn l ti Thi Ha in, s dng nghi l c ca
chng t, quy ch phm
nc ti vo triu tham. n ngy mi ba li c v i T M nm m
phc ca triu Ty Sn c
s qun mi vo chu, ng trn Phan Huy ch. Ba ngi bng chc thay
t nh trn c s quy ch o
i cch n mc trc y. M Phc u, ai vng, o bo hoc hoc
mo triu cha Nguyn Phc
bic, c hoa vn rng, mng; ring hai l phc hu sau o qu cao, khi
Khot, sau ci cch nm
khu u th nh ln hai vai, ta nh hai chic sng. Vng cn tt bng
1744. V nh vic s dng
t, kt li qu tha, li khng tht cht .
Vng cn, trong khi cc quan
Phan Huy ch mc o di nm thn

gi khuy. (Chinh ph ngm b kho).
(1)
Kim Jeong Jong (Kim Chnh Trung) m t: Quan An Nam bi tc
triu L Trung Hng u xa
cao dng Vng cn, bo phc vo chu v ai sng rt ging vi nc ta,
tc, th sau ci cch nm
v li cn i m gi l m Vn Cng.
1744, quan li ng Trong
(2)
Theo m t ca s thn Triu Tin Seo Hao Su (T Ho Tu), th vo
bi tc, tht Vng cn theo
cc bui triu h, t l, vua Quang Trung gi cn i Tht Lng quan
quy ch ca nh Minh. M
kt hp vi Long bo mu ; cc quan ty tng i Ng Lng quan kt
Vn Cng th tip tc c p
hp vi Mng bo. Lng quan l loi m Triu phc (kt hp vi o mu
dng lm m Thng phc
) kim T phc (kt hp vi o mu en hoc xanh) theo quy ch Tng Minh,
ca quan vn nht, nh, tam phm triu Nguyn. Ngoi ra, hnh tng
Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in . An Nam

quc vng Nguyn Quang Bnh [] n Kinh cung
chc vn th, y trng ngng (China: The Three
Emperors 1662 - 1795).
cc quan Ty Sn th hin trong Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in

1. (Hn) Loan dng lc - Q.1. Nguyn vn: []
[]
[]
2. (Hn) Yn hnh lc tuyn tp - Thng sch. Tr.573. Dn theo S hc nguyt san. K 10 - 2005. Nguyn
vn:
v Nguyn Hu khin it Nguyn Quang Hin nhp cn t yn chi

u mc B phc, i m Sa, tng t cc quan Triu Tin. Ring v
quan dn u s on, Nguyn Quang Hin, mc B phc mu ta, i
m Xung Thin, trc trn m nh qu cu . Theo quy ch triu L
Nguyn, ch c vua cha mi c i m Xung Thin. Nh vy c th
ci cch triu phc ca triu nh Ty Sn cn bao gm vic p dng m
271
272
Xung Thin i vi mt s v
H khng ch tri qua mt cuc bin
vng cng i thn.
cch m cn c rt bt i rt nhiu
V qun trang ca triu
[] Qun o ca gii n khng c g l
Ty Sn Nguyn Hu, Bi
hp dn. Nhn chung mt chic o vi
Dng Lch cho bit Ty
bng di lng thng, mu nu hoc
Sn cho qun mc o mu,
xanh, bung r xung tn gia bp i,
phn nhiu l mu ta,
mt chic qun en bng vi th dy,
trn nh nn, m nh lng
may rt rng, l y phc thng thng
chin , li thng mc o
gm mu ; Minh s
(1)
miu t Nguyn Hu Vn
ca h. H hon ton khng dng bt
Nguyn Hu khin it Nguyn Quang Hin nhp cn

t yn chi (Cc b).
tt v i giy, nhng tng lp trn i

mt loi dp hoc giy vi rng. V L
Hu mc o ngn gip (o gip bc), u i mo thu .(2) Kt hp
phc mc trong nhng dp c bit, mt
vi ghi chp ca s thn Triu Tin v bc v vua Quang Trung gi mc
qu b thng mang mt lc ba bn
Long bo mu , chng ti ng tnh vi quan im ca T Ch i

Trng, khi ng cho rng trong phong tro Ty Sn c c mt h thng
Vin quan cp thp vnh Nng

(Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H).
chic o mu sc, di ngn khc nhau,

chic ngn nht l ni bt hn c [] Y
t chc mang tnh tn gio. Nguyn Nhc c loan tin c gm thing,
phc ca ngi n ng t phn bit vi
c xng tng l Thng s; Nguyn L cng mang danh i Php s
y phc n gii, nu c l mt chic o khoc v i ng qun di. Mt
ton ng Trong, vy nn quan qun Ty Sn mang mu thn thnh
s ngi cht khn qun u, c hnh dng ging nh chic khn xp
ln l c, ln sc m o .
ca ngi Hi gio. Mt s khc i nn, m c hnh dng khc nhau
(3)
Tm li, quy ch o m phm phc ca triu Ty Sn v c bn c

nhiu nt tng ng vi quy ch o m triu Nguyn. Ring s kt hp
v lm bng nhng cht liu khc nhau.(1)

Vo
ngy
thng,
gia Lng quan vi Long bo, Mng bo, m Xung Thin vi B phc l
qun dn Ty Sn cng
nhng bin cch c o, ch xut hin triu nh Quang Trung.
mc o cht ci khuy,
II. Trang phc dn gian
vn khn cao trn u
Sau ci cch y phc ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot, qun chn
theo tc ca ngi ng
o cht dn tr thnh dng trang phc truyn thng ca ton ng
Trong. Theo m t ca
Trong, bt k l vng t ca dng di cha Nguyn hay vng t ca
Chapman nm 1778 th
anh em Ty Sn. Nh chng ti cp, Chapman m t trang phc
Nguyn Nhc sau khi ci
dn gian ng Trong di s cai tr ca Nguyn Nhc nm 1778 cho
b qun o thit triu th
bit, n ng v ph n Nam H u mc cng mt loi o c nh
mc o la ngn n
ci cc bt cho trn ngc. Cn John Barrow miu t trang phc vng
gin vi nhng chic cc
Gia nh v Nam b nm 1792 cho bit: Y phc ca ngi dn Nam
kim cng, qun quanh u mt mnh la nh mt chic khn.(2)
Ngi Vit ng Trong (Mt chuyn du hnh n x

Nam H).
Nguyn Hu khi ra Bc xin ci cng cha Ngc Hn, cu thn nh L

1. (Vit) L qu dt s. Tr.77.
2. Dn theo Nhng khm ph v hong Quang Trung. Tr.181.
3. Lch s ni chin Vit Nam t 1771 n 1802. Tr.474.
1. Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792-1793). Tr.76 v Tr.83.

2. Relation dun voyage en Cochin-Chine en 1778. Tr.32.
273
Trn Danh n vn cm ght qun Ty Sn m t Quang Trung i

274
chic khn Trng Gic cht cao trn u. Trng Gic l th lnh cuc
khi ngha Hong Cn thi Hn, cn gi l gic khn vng. Vy nn
chng ti cho rng loi khn Quang Trung Nguyn Hu vn trn u
ng thi l khn mu vng(1), c qun ri, cht cao trn u. Vi
bn tnh khoan ha, gn gi vi dn chng, Quang Trung Nguyn Hu
khi ln ngi ti Thng Long tn trng phong tc ca nhn dn hai
min Nam Bc, cho php y phc dn gian Nam H, Bc H u c
theo phong tc ca mi min, ch c o m vo chu ca b quan th
nht nht tun theo ch mi.(2)
Tuy nhin, cng cn phi ni rng,
trong cch nhn kht khe ca khng t s
phu nh L ng thi, trang phc ca
ngi Nam H ni chung, ca qun Ty
Sn ni ring b coi l loi trang phc
khc thng, thm ch l s ph b
truyn thng o m c t ngn i ca
i Vit. Nm 1786, qun Ty Sn tin
ra Bc, danh s nh L l Bi Dng Lch
(1757-1828) sau khi vo thnh Thng
Long trng thy qun Ty Sn lin cm
khi: Trong ngoi thnh khi nghe v
thy qun Ty Sn u kinh hi. H
ni nng, n mc hon ton d l []
o m ngn xa thnh ra ct bi.(3)
Ng Th o (1732-1802) vn mt lng
Lnh ng Trong (Mt chuyn du hnh

n x Nam H).
trung thnh vi nh L, bt hp tc vi Ty Sn, t than rng: Sng

chng gp thi, cht chng xong/ Nh cc tht tha gia t tri tht
ng gin/ Nhn cnh non sng tng gt nc mt [...] Trng o m li
xt xa Trng Lng nh Hn.(4)
1. (Vit) Tn ng di co ph tp lc - Ty Sn hnh. A.2157. Nguyn vn: []
2. (Vit) Hn cc anh hoa - Tc v chiu. VHc.00893. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) L qu dt s. Tr.70. Nguyn vn: [].

4. (Vit) Tuyn tp Ng gia vn phi. Tp 1. Tr.500. Nguyn vn:
[]
275
Chng V. TRANG PHC THI NGUYN
Vai tr ca nh nc v h
t tng chnh tr lun c nhng
tc ng trc tip, mang tnh
chi phi ti ton b i sng
vn ha, x hi. Vn ng trong
cc hnh thi x hi khc nhau,
thc th vn ha lun c s k
tha v bin d. Triu Nguyn,
triu i phong kin qun ch
cui cng trong lch s Vit
Nam, nh du s thay i to
Cu nh t trc sn Th miu trong Hong

thnh Hu. (nh: TQ)
ln v mt nhn thc ca ngi Vit sau khi tip xc vn ha Php. Song

trc khi vn ha, t tng Php c dp gy nh hng mnh m ln
i sng ca ngi Vit, di s tr v ca cc v vua Gia Long, Minh
Mng, Thiu Tr, T c, Vit Nam vn l quc gia Nho gio kin quyt
gn gi truyn thng n tn cng. Lc ny do vn ha ng Ty xung
t, bn thn nh Thanh li c ngun gc Mn, cho nn nh Nguyn
t nhn l triu i k tha tnh chnh thng ca vn minh Trung Hoa.
Bi vy nh nh s hc Nht Bn, Yamamoto Tatsuro nhn xt: Ngi
Vit Nam vn ht sc t tin cho rng h lu gi c trn vn truyn
thng c ca Trung Quc, ng thi l ngi bo v cho t tng Hoa di
khng km g Trung Quc.(1)
Xut pht t s t tin v t tn v vn hin, vua Minh Mng tng
1. Lch s quan h Vit Nam - Trung Quc. Tr.543.
276
i Nam nht thng ton
ch th ch Hn ca vua Cn
sch.(1) V vy, chng ta kh c
Long th thin, qu kch, th
th ph nhn mt s nh hng
ng lm cng khng n ni
ca cc dng o m cng ha
nh th(1), ng thi cn ni:
tit trang tr c ngun gc Mn
Thanh l man di, o m vo
Thanh trong trang phc ca vua
chu u theo thi tc man di,
ti triu Nguyn. Ch ring o m
khng c bt chc. Nm
L phc mi c chm chc t
1830, sau khi khi phc trang
ngun tham kho chnh l trang
phc Cn Min theo quy ch
phc Tng - Minh.
Tng - Minh, vua Minh Mng
Bn cnh , do quan nim
xung d: Cn Min c
vn ha, tn ngng ca phng
t nh t i Hin Vin, i
Ty hon ton khc bit vi
Tam i tr xung t dng []
truyn thng ca ngi Vit, cc
Ngay nh Bc triu t khi nh
v vua u triu Nguyn u mt
Thanh dng nc n nay
mc bi xch, thm ch coi ngi
cng b lu. Nay ta ch
phng Ty l man di, cn phi
dng, in l ca ngi Thanh mt, chc s bt chc ta m sa li
thn trng phng. Nh thng
cho ng. So vi Bc triu, ta cng v vang vy. Nhng lng trm cng
6 nm 1804, vua Gia Long ni:
cha dm cho l iu hay nht, v th tri ct thc tm ch khng
Tin vng kinh dinh vic nc,
phi vn v.
khng H ln vi di, thc
Pha Bc gip ba tnh Qung ng, Qung Ty,

Vn Nam ca Trung chu; pha Ty khng ch cc
tc man di, tip vi cc nc Nam Chng, Min
in; pha ng trng ra b ln, m bc cc o;
pha Nam cng chm ti bin, vng qua pha Ty
Nam st vch Xim La, cc thuc quc cn li v
tc man di khc nhau ni ph u c, tht l mt
i quc sng sng gia tri t (L Vn Phc.
Bin di lun).
(2)
277
Tuy nhin, t trong nhn quan Nho gio ng thi, mc d ht
l ci phng t lc vic cn
sc t tin v tnh chnh thng, song vua quan triu Nguyn vn phi
nh. Ngi Hng mao gian gio
cng nhn vn ha nh Thanh t c nhiu thnh tu v c nhiu
tr tr, khng phi ni ging ta,
iu ng hc hi. Nu nh quan ch thi Gia Long cn gn gi mt
lng t d bit, ch c cho
phn quan ch nh L Trung Hng th n thi Minh Mng li c
li, nn ban thng hu hnh ri
phng theo quan ch ca nh Thanh. Ngay b Hong Vit lut l phn
xua i(2) Vua Minh Mng cng
ln c tham kho t sch lut ca nh Thanh, nh chnh li vua Gia
c nhn nh tng t: Ngi
Long ni: Cc i Hn, ng, Tng, Minh ca Bc triu, sch lut lnh
Ty dng bn tnh gio tr kiu
i no cng c sa i v hon b nht l i Thanh. Trm bn sai cc
ngo, phi chng nay c n
quan trong triu chun theo php in lut l ca cc triu, tham kho
cu tut nn bng chc ci ha c ci tc di r ca h?(3)
Long bo ca nh Nguyn, nh Thanh, nh

Minh v Triu Tin.
thm lut lnh i Hng c v ca nh Thanh [] ri bin tp li thnh
Trc bi cnh nh vy, khi t nh ch o m phm phc,
1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Chnh bin. nh k. Q.159. (Tp 4). Cn Long nh Thanh lm th rt nhiu, ta
xem ra, u l nhng bi i thng vo tnh cnh, chng cn nhng li ph phim gt gia, song c nhiu ch
cn th [] Cc bi ta lm ch t tnh, t cnh m dng ch chng n ni qu kch nh th.
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp.3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. C lut Vit Nam. Quc triu hnh lut v Hong Vit lut l. Tr.173-174.
2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k - Q.24. Nguyn vn:
3. Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp VI. Ph lc Hn vn. Tr.CCCXIV.31b. Nguyn vn:

; Tr.CCCXXV.37a. Nguyn vn:
278
ngoi vic k tha mt phn quy ch thi L Trung Hng v thi cha
a. Cn Min
Nguyn Phc Khot, triu nh nh Nguyn vn tip tc tham kho ch
Thi cc cha Nguyn ct c ng
trang phc ca cc triu i Trung Hoa l nh Tng, nh Minh v
Trong, vo dp t l, cha i m Xung
nh Thanh, trong , trang phc Tng - Minh l ngun tham kho chnh
Thin lm bng sa, mc o bo (giao lnh)
thng. T thi vua ng Khnh, Khi nh v sau, trang phc trong
mu huyn, i giy mt, khng x tt.(1)
triu khng cn c tun th nghim ngt nh trc; qun phc
Sau khi vua Gia Long thng nht lnh
ca nh vua dn dn cng chu nh hng kiu cch qun phc phng
th, thng 2 nm 1807, vua mi bt u
Ty, vic i giy Ty trong triu cng ngy mt thnh hnh. c bit di
nh i l Nam Giao, vo ngy t, vua
triu vua Bo i, ln u tin vua cho php b quan khng cn mc cc
i m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai
b Triu phc, Thng phc khi vo chu, ch cn mc b l phc gin
ngc, xim vng, ln n lm l.(2) Minh
tin l o the, khn xp.
Mng chnh yu cng cho bit t nm
t trong nhn quan phong kin ng thi, triu nh nh Nguyn
1830 tr v trc, khi t Giao, vua ch i
bt lun th no cng s hu mt nn vn hin o mo c b dy
m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai ngc
truyn thng v nhng cch tn c sc, t tin snh ngang vi cc quc
nh khi lm l t Hng Tng miu(3).
gia Nho gio nh Trung Quc, Triu Tin, khin Khm s nh Thanh l
M Cu Long c nhc n y
Lao Sng Quang phi cng nhn: Gn gi Trung H, tn sng Nho gio,
l m Cu Long Thng Thin, tn gi
yu chung thi th, cng c coi l t thanh danh vn vt, t phi ni
khc ca m Xung Thin triu Nguyn.
n hai nc Triu Tin v Vit Nam.
Nh vy L phc t Giao thi vua Gia
(1)
279
Long vn tun theo quy ch thi L

I. TRANG PHC HONG
Trung Hng. Nm 1830 l thi im triu
1. L phc
nh vua Minh Mng khi phc quy ch
Tng t nh cc v hong i Vit trc y, cc vua nh
Cn Min. Theo quy ch L phc t
Nguyn cng c t tng vng, lm b ch ton ci phng Nam.
tri dnh cho hong c quy nh
c bit sau khi s hu mt quc th rng ln cha tng c trong lch
l m Min 12 lu v o Cn 12 chng, c th c Hi in cho bit:
Vua Khi nh mc Cn Min. n t

Nam Giao ti Hu.
s m nh li triu thn L Vn Phc, Vit Nam lc ny l mt i quc
M Min t Giao trn vung di trn, nh hai ch Vn Th
sng sng gia vm tri t, vua Minh Mng cho khi phc quy ch
bng vng hoc hai ch Thin a bng vng, 12 hnh rng my, 6 hnh
o Cn m Min, vn b ph b t thi L Trung Hng, nh du v
ngn la, 2 thy vn, 4 nhiu tng, 1 hoa sen, 1 a my, 1 lin ng
th ca thin t phng Nam c quyn c lp t tri.
chy vin quanh thnh m, 256 ht vng, 2 cc, 2 khuyn. Mt trc v
Theo Hi in, cc vua nh Nguyn c hai loi L phc, gm L
sau c 24 di lu, hai bn phi tri mi bn 1 di lu, u xu chui
phc Cn Min s dng trong l t Giao v L phc Xun Thu s dng
bng san h, trn chu, pha l v cc ht vng, tng cng 300 ht. Xung
trong cc dp t l ti Tng Miu.
quanh c mng kim tuyn nh kt vi 400 ht vng ngc. Trm khm

trn chu ni vi dy thy anh lm bng t vng. Phm l mt rng
1. (Vit) Tp m thi vn - Nam quc phong nh thng bin t. Nguyn vn: ,,

,
1. (Trung) Hi ngoi k s - Q.2. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr. CCLXIV-3b. Nguyn vn:
280
u khm cc ht trn chu nh. Vng
ng, hi vn, sng nc vn vn. Vin
cn sc 4 khuyn vng.
gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
(1)
Theo ghi nhn ca Hi in, i
bo lam, lt sa Nam mt bng mu vng
Nam thc lc v hnh v trong BAVH, m
chnh sc. K y (o lt c trn gn vi thng) may
Min dnh cho Hong triu Nguyn l
bng la trng.
loi m Min 12 lu (pha trc 12 lu,
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt la mu ,
tc ca m Min dnh cho thin t theo
thu chng Sn, Long, hnh my v cc
Chu l. Tuy nhin, nh chnh li vua Minh
hnh ha lu. 4 ng bin may lin on
[] trm nay noi theo php xa m thm

bt , dy sung nh gn hai bn thi
(2)
dng m c i thnh hai di lu, dy
M Min ca hong nh Nguyn

trong BAVH (1915) v m Min phc
ch (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam; m
phc ch thiu dy thy anh).
T tt mt chic, lm bng t Bt ti
pha sau 12 lu), khp vi cc nguyn
Mng ni Cn Min c t thi Hin Vin
281
gm lan can thun bc hoa mai mu bo

lam xen vi on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch
( hoa). Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun
vng, 4 mc vng, 4 cc vng.
hong mu son c i thnh dy
i th mt chic, lm bng on
thy anh lm bng t vng, cng li trang
Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, lt la mu
tr trn nh min bn v quanh thn m
vng, thu hnh rng my, sng nc v
u c th coi l nhng nt c sc ch
cc hnh c . Bn trn may lin mt
xut hin m Min ca triu Nguyn.
ming (ngc trng) hnh bn nguyt vi
1. o lt thu hoa vn ch ca vua

Triu Tin (cn gi o Trung n); 2.
Thng v K y ca vua quan triu
Nguyn (BAVH).
Kt hp vi loi m Min 12 lu l b Cn phc 12 chng, phi
on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch, thu cc hnh rng my xen vi hnh lan
vi cc phc sc nh ngc khu, ngc bi, i th, T tt, Cch i, i
can kim tuyn. ng bin may lin on gm lan can thun bc hoa
i v.v. C th:
mai mu bo lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu bo lam
o Cn may bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu thin thanh, thu

6 chng: Nht, Nguyt, Tinh thn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng. Di thy lu
(ch di vi buc o ca o giao lnh, tnh cht nh cc) thu
kt vi dy nhung xu ngc cc mu. 1 di thy anh, 2 di thy lu xen

dng tru bng mu vng, trng, .
hnh rng my, hoc may
Pha di kt li, thy anh v mc bc
bng sa mt bng thun ch mu tuyt bch. ng tay o thu hnh rng
4 chic, cc vng 7 ht.
my. C o may bng on Bt ti bng mu quan lc. o lt trong may
Ngc bi hai di. Mi di c 1 ngc
bng la mu trng thu hoa vn ch (tc chng Pht), di thy lu
trng hnh con di, 1 ngc trng hnh
thu hnh rng my, sng nc.
vung, 1 ngc trng hnh trn, 2 ngc
Thng may bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh sc,
trng hnh bn nguyt, 1 ngc trng
thu cc chng: To, Ha, Phn m, Ph, Pht, Tng di (Thng 6 chng
hnh khnh, xu chui vi cc ht vn
v cc hnh c , bt bo, lin
mu, san h, h phch mu en, mi
kt hp vi o Cn 6 chng, tng cng 12 chng)
loi hn 200 ht, 1 mc cu vng.

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.5,6. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a.
Cch i mt chic, bc t Bt
Ngc bi kt hp vi Cn phc ca vua
triu Nguyn (BAVH); 2. Tp bi
(Tam ti hi).
ti bng mu vng chnh sc, kt vi 1

ming ngc trng hnh vung, 6 ming
ngc trng hnh chic mc, bn ngoi
282
u bc vng, 6 chn cc, 2 hnh l
Min ca Hong triu Nguyn tuy phn ln tham kho t quy ch
vng ta, 2 khuy kp bc.
Tng - Minh, song xut hin rt nhiu bin d, c bit l vic s dng
i i lm bng on Bt ti
i i vt ngang vai v s kt hp gia thng v K y c trn. Ring i
bng mu bo lam, bn trong lt
i, theo quy ch Tng Minh, l di ai bng la trng dng tht lng,
tru bng mu hoa xch, hai u
kt hp vi ai da - cch i. Song nh BAVH m t, vo thi Nguyn,
xu chui vi cc hng chu ngc,

c thy 392 ht, 10 di thy anh kim
i i l di khn mnh vt qua vai, vt qua ngc, mi u u c

dim bn rng bng la nm ngc nhiu mu v r xung tht thp.(1)
tuyn.
Bt tt ging nh Triu phc
(thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam,
gia l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha
Hia p dng cho Cn phc, Triu phc v
Thng phc ca vua triu Nguyn. (Bu vt
triu Nguyn).
di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun

vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can
kim tuyn, pha trn gn vi h tt).
Hia thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm,

thu rng my, lin ng, ngn la v hi
vn kim tuyn, xen k gn kt vi gng ty;
pha di lm bng t lng v mu vng, thu
nh cc loi ht trn chu, san h nh, hnh
rng, mi loi 2 th v cc hnh c , xen k
gn vi gng ty, nh 3 chic kim bn, mi
chic khm 1 ht ha t, 2 ht kim cang lt
on Bt ti mu .(1)
i chiu t liu vn t v t liu hnh
nh tng quan, c th thy trang phc Cn
Mt trong nhng chic tt ca

vua Khi nh (nh: Trnh
Bch).
1. Vua Khi nh mc trang phc Cn Min, song thay v tht T tt pha trc, ng li
tht i Th vn l phc sc che pha sau. Cch phi hp nh vy khng hp quy ch. Phi
chng y l mt trong nhng kiu n vn khng phi li ca vua Khi nh nh li cng
kch ca Phan Chu Trinh. (Tht iu trn. Tp ch Nghin cu lch s, s 66); 2. Trang phc
Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (Phc dng).
1. BAVH. 1915. Tr. 75-76 .
283
Trang phc Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (BAVH) 1.2.3.4. M Min 12 lu. (1. Min bn
nhn t trn xung; 2 - 3. M Min nhn trc din v trc din; 4. Dy thy anh mu vng gn trm
ngc); 5. Khu (cn gi l Trn khu, ht). 6. Hia. 7. i i. 8. Cch i. 9. Bi. 10. Tp bi. 11.
Tiu th. 12. Cn phc 12 chng (mt trc v mt sau): A. o xanh en 6 chng (a. Nguyt; b.
Nht; c. Tinh thn; d. Sn; e. Long; f. Hoa trng). B. Thng 6 chng. C. T tt (thu 2 chng
Sn v Long, 1 hnh rng bay ln v 1 hnh rng bay xung). D. i th.
Mt s phc sc trong b Cn phc ca hong nh Minh (Tam ti hi). 1. o Cn mu huyn;

2. o lt Trung n; 3. Thng mu nht; 4. T tt; 5. Cch i; 6. i i; 7. Th; 8. Tp bi.
Quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh c sa i nhiu ln. Quy ch Cn Min ca Hong triu
Nguyn nhiu kh nng c tham kho trc tip t quy ch trong Tam ti hi.
Hin vt o Cn ca vua Khi nh triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch), Hiu Minh thin hong
Nht Bn (M thut Nht Bn) v Thun Tng hong thi i Hn quc (Phc sc).
BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 12 LU 12

286
CHNG CA HONG NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH TNG
b. Xun Thu
T Tng miu cng l mt trong nhng
V NH MINH TRUNG QUC
l tit quan trng trong vn ha cung nh.
(theo i Nam hi in s l, Tng s v Minh hi in)
Vo dp t l ny, vua nh Trn s dng L
287
phc Quyn Vn, vua nh L s dng L

Quy ch ca nh
Nguyn
Quy ch ca nh
Tng
Quy ch ca nh Minh
-M Min 12 lu, sung

nh c thay bng
2 di lu, dy hong
c thay bng dy
thy anh lm bng t
vng
-M Min 12 lu, thn

m Thng Thin gia
min bn, dy hong
mu son
-M Min 12 lu, thn m

dng ng gia min bn, dy
hong mu son
-o Cn mu xanh,
thu 6 chng Nht,
Nguyt, Tinh, Sn,
Long, Hoa trng
-o Cn mu xanh,
thu 7 chng Nht,
Nguyt, Tinh, Sn,
Long, Tr (Hoa trng),
H du (Tng di)
-o Cn mu huyn, thu 6
chng Nht, Nguyt, Tinh,
Sn, Long, Hoa trng
-Thng mu vng,
thu 6 chng To,
Ha, Phn m, Tng
di, Ph, Pht v cc
hnh c , bt bo...
-Thng mu , thu
5 chng To, Ha,
Phn m, Ph, Pht
-Thng mu vng, thu 6

chng To, Ha, Tng di,
Phn m, Ph, Pht
-o Trung n may
bng la trng, thu
12 chng Pht
-o Trung n may
bng l trng
-o Trung n may bng sa

trng, c o thu 13 chng
Pht
-T tt mu vng vin
lam, thu Sn, Long,
1 rng bay ln, 1 rng
bay xung, hnh my
v cc hnh ha lu
-T tt mu , thu
1 con rng bay ln, 1
con rng bay xung,
gia l my, sc ngc
qu
-T tt mu , thu 4 chng
To, Phn m, Ph, Pht
-i th thu hnh
rng my sng nc,
xu cc loi ngc
-i th 6 mu nh
3 tiu th kt 3 ngc
hon
i th 6 mu nh 3 tiu th
kt 3 ngc hon
-Ngc bi 2 di, gm
cc loi ngc hnh, c,
xung nha, hong
-Ngc bi 2 di, lm
bng ngc trng tr
rng
-Ngc bi 2 di, gm cc loi

ngc hnh, c, v, xung nha,
hong
-Cch i nh ngc
trng, bc vng
-Cch i tr rng
phng bng vng
-Cch i nh ngc
-Tt pha trn gn h

tt, thn mu lam,
pha di mu trng,
dt vng, hia mu
thm thu rng my
-Tt , giy Tch
-Tt , giy Tch
phc Bnh nh, cc vua nh Nguyn mun

nht vo thi vua Gia Long c L phc
Xun Thu. i Nam thc lc cho bit: Bui
hm trc ngy ht tang mt nm, vua
vua Gia Long) b
(ch
o tang, ni gim em ct i.
n ngy , bn th by t nh nghi thc

t in ln. Vua mc trng, i m Xun
Thu bng sa trng, o giao lnh bng sa
trng, thng bng la trng, giy v bt tt
trng, n trc bn th lm l [] T in
ln, t cu ngu, t tt khc mc cng theo
nh th [] Cn t Luyn, t Tng v t
m th sau ngy tt khc mi c hnh. T
Luyn vua mc L phc, i m Xun Thu
bng sa thm, o giao lnh bng sa thm,
thng bng la mu bic lt la trng, giy
v bt tt en. T Tng v t m vua mc
mu, m Xun Thu bng nhiu thm,
o giao lnh bng sa on mu bo lam,
thng bng sa bic lt trng, bt tt lam,
giy en.(1). Vo thi Gia Long, quy ch L
phc Xun Thu c s phn bit ty theo quy
m ca bui t. t nht c ba dng L phc
M Xun Thu ca quan v T

phm (BAVH); Vua Gia Long
i m Xun Thu di nt v ca
ngi Php. (nh phc ch).
Xun Thu p dng cho thin t trong cc dp t i in, t Cu Ngu, t

tt khc, t Luyn, t Tng, t m. Vo thi vua Minh Mng, quy ch
L phc Xun Thu c gin ha, thng nht l m Xun Thu mu en
kt hp vi o giao lnh mu thin thanh (mu huyn).
Nm 1821, vua Minh Mng ni vi Thng th B L Phm ng
Hng: Trong ngy k lit thnh, hong kho ta i m Xun Thu, mc
288
o giao lnh, t c in tc. Trm nn theo l ca hong kho th lit
v Thng triu.(1) Nh vy, vo thi Nguyn,
thnh th hong kho.(1) ng thi quy nh:
Triu phc hay cn gi l trang phc i triu
M L phc l m Xun Thu, lm bng sa tru mu en, nh 1
ch trang phc mc vo ngy rm, mng mt
bng hoa bc, khm mt ht pha l lp lnh. Vng cn mt chic, sc bn
v mt s dp l tt nht nh; Thng phc l
khuyn bc. o giao lnh lm bng sa mt thun ch, mu thin thanh,
trang phc mc vo cc ngy chu thng mng
o lt lm bng sa mt thun ch mu tuyt bch, u thu hoa vn rng
5, 10, 20, 25.
my, sng nc. Hoc o lm bng on Bt ti bng thun ch lai l,

mu thin thanh, thu rng my, bn trong lt lnh 12 hoa mu n cho
a. M Cu Long Thng Thin

Hi in, Hi in tc bin, i Nam in l
mu ngc lam. C o v hai di thy lu u dng mu sc gc (ca o).
tot yu, i Nam thc lc u ghi nhn, vo cc
Thng lm bng sa mt thu hoa nh, mu ngc lam, vin lm bng
bui i triu, hong mc Hong bo, i m
on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh. K y lm bng la sng.
Cu Long Thng Thin. Loi m Triu phc ny

vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, bn trong lt la
mu . Hia c thn hia lm bng t Bt ti mu thm, bn trong lt lnh
bng mu bo lam.(2)
289
mt s sch nh Minh Mng chnh yu, i

Nam thc lc cn c gi tt l m Cu Long,
trong dn gian quen gi l m Xung Thin. Nam
phng danh vt b kho thi Nguyn gii thch:
M Cu Long Thng Thin

th hin trn tng kim thn
ca vua Khi nh (Lng
Khi nh. nh: TQ).
M Xung Thin, m i triu ca thin t ngy nay, nh m Phc u,

hai cnh chun cha ln tri.(2) Ring t Thng Thin, Ch Nam ngc
2. Triu phc
m gii thch Thng Thin quan hiu (gi l) Triu Thin.(3) T in Vit
T thng 5 nm 1806 thi vua Gia Long,
- B - La ca Alexandre de Rhodes nh ngha: M Triu Thin l vng
cc bui chu i triu, Thng triu c quy

nh: Mi thng ly ngy mng mt v ngy
min (m ca vua). Cc c liu trn chng t vo thi L -Nguyn, loi
rm t i triu in Thi Ha, quan t lc
m tng t m Phc u c hai cnh chun hng ln tri, ngoi tn
phm tr ln mc o m i triu vo ly chu;
gi m Xung Thin, cn c gi l m Triu Thin v Thng Thin.
nhng ngy mng 5, 10, 20, 25 t Thng triu
Ring loi m Thng Thin c nhng bi my cun trn nh m, nh
in Cn Chnh, quan t t phm tr ln mc
Trn gi l m Quyn Vn, nh L Trung Hng gi l m Tam Sn.

i vi quy ch m Cu Long Thng Thin, Hi in cho bit, m
o m Thng triu vo ly chu. Cc thnh v
i triu Cu Long Thng Thin nh 31 hnh rng vng, 30 hnh ngn
dinh trn n ngy mng mt v ngy rm u

bi vng Hnh cung.(3) Minh Mng chnh yu
cng c ghi chp tng t, ng thi cho bit,
phm gp thng nhun u min c i triu
Vua ng Khnh tht

Vng Cn, i m Cu
Long Thng Thin.
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCX -15b.

3. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.666
la; pha trc v sau u c 1 bc sn, 1 honh long, ht bc pha l lp

lnh v ht thng thin mi th 2 chic; 1 lin ng, 1 nhiu tng, 1
a hoa hnh trn, 30 a my u kt bng ch; cc hng ngc dng
khm sc nh ha t, kim cang, trn chu gm 140 ht, mt mi con
rng u khm 1 ht trn chu nh.(4) Trc khi i m, vua cn tht
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCXVIII-19b.
2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Q.31 - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m. Tr.120

290
Vng cn sc 4 khuyn vng. Nh vy c
Mt trc v sau u c hai ch Vn
th thy, loi m Triu phc ca Hong
Th, ba hnh rng. Hai ng tay o v
nh Nguyn c ngun gc l m Xung Thin
hai cnh u c mt hnh rng. Cc
ca vua L cha Trnh, song c sc ln
hoa vn san h, ha lu u xu chui
v s trang sc bng vng v qu, ng
bng cc ht ngc chu nh. C o
thi c t tn mi, gi l m Cu Long
may bng on Bt ti bng mu tuyt
Thng Thin. Qua mt s nh chp cc v
bch. Thy lu hai di
vua ng Khnh, Duy Tn, Khi nh, Bo
nh nch o, c chc nng nh cc)
i, c th thy li trang sc trn m Cu
hnh rng my.
M Cu Long Thng Thin ca

cc vua nh Nguyn. (Phc ch.
Bo tng Lch s). Bc sn: trang
sc hnh bn nguyt chy vng trn
trn m. Ht bc pha l lp lnh:
trang sc nh cho 2 bn Bc Sn.
Nhiu Tng: trang sc nh gia
trn m. Honh long: hc cm cnh
chun hnh u rng nm ngang
gy m. Ht Thng Thin: hai cnh
chun vn ra t Honh Long, l ra
hi cong gp.
(ch hai di tht
u thu
Long ca cc v vua ny khng hon ton
Thng lm bng sa mt bng
ng nht. c bit, hai cnh m Xung
mu hoa xch, thu hnh cc hnh
Thin th hin trn pho tng kim thn ca
rng , sng nc, c , bt bo; pha
vua Khi nh c dng cong trn hi hng
di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng,
v pha trc, trng khp vi hnh dng
lan can mu hoa xch, gm on lt
cnh m Xung Thin ca vua Quang Trung
la mu , gm hng nht thu hoa
gi th hin trong bc tranh Cn Long bt

tun vn th khnh in . Dng cnh m
291
sen thun vng mu lc lam. K y lm

bng la sng.
Chn dung vua ng Khnh (1864 - 1889)

mc Triu phc. Ngc o bo thu 2 ch
Vn Th theo li ch Trin. (Bu vt triu
Nguyn).
ny nn c coi l quy ch chung nht ca
ai lm bng on Bt ti bng
dng m Xung Thin triu L Nguyn hay
mu vng chnh sc may xen vi t
ch l vi trng hp c bit? Vi c liu
mu xch v, nh 18 ming sng t hnh mc di, bn ngoi bc vng,
hin c chng ti thin v kh nng th
khm 92 ht trn chu.
nht, song chng ti cho rng, dng cnh
m Xung Thin ny c l ch c s dng
t thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot tr v sau.
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, pha trn gn h tt.
Ngoi ra, o mo ca vua quan nh Nguyn

v c bn bm st quy ch ca Hi in,
nhng trn thc t vn c s gia gim, c bit l o mo ca nh vua.

b. Bo phc
Kt hp vi m Cu Long Thng Thin l b Bo phc bao gm
Hong bo, ai ngc, xim y, h tt, bt tt v hia.
Trong , o bo lm bng sa on mu vng chnh sc, thu cc
hnh rng my, sng nc ln nh v 4 ch Phc Th, o sa dy thu hoa
T hu
(mai, lan, cc, trc)
hoc loi tru mu hoa xch thu hoa T hu;
hai cnh (tc hai cnh ph hu lng o) dng on Bt ti bng mu bo lam.

Vua Thnh Thi, vua Bo i v vua Khi nh mc Triu phc.
H tt lm bng t Bt ti bng mu vng

chnh sc, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, tt
292
Hi in cho bit m Thng triu ca cc
c u dng kim tuyn theo kiu hi vn, vin
v vua nh Nguyn l Cu Long ng Cn, song
gm hng nht thun vng mu bo lam, bn
khng cp quy ch c th. Ring m Triu
trong lt tru bng. Hia c thn hia lm
phc Tht Long ng Cn ca hong thi t
bng t Bt ti mu thm, thu cc hnh rng
c m t trang sc bng vng v ngc chu.
my, sng nc, hoa bng kim tuyn, bn trong
Sau khi kho st mt s nh chn dung cc v
lt t Bt ti mu .
vua triu Nguyn, chng ti pht hin thy
(1)
u tht Vng Cn, chn

buc h tt. (K thut ca
ngi An Nam).
3. Thng phc
293
Qua m t ca Hi in, kt hp vi t liu
ngoi m Cu Long Thng Thin, cc vua nh
nh triu Nguyn, c th thy Long bo ca cc
Nguyn cn i mt loi m c phn gy nh
v vua triu Nguyn k tha kiu dng trang tr
cao, chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi
Long bo thi L Trung Hng. c trng ca
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Chng ti
li bo phc ny l hoa vn Long vn i hi
cho rng, loi m xut hin trong cc nh chn
v hai cnh o ph hu lng o. S bin cch
dung vua T c, ng Khnh, Thnh Thi l
ln nht ca Long bo, Mng bo triu Nguyn
m Cu Long ng Cn, loi m xut hin trong nh chn dung Thi
nm hoa vn trang tr rng, my, sng nc,
t Bo i v Thi t Bo Long l m Tht Long ng Cn. Ngoi ra,
c , bt bo, san h, ha lu v lan can,
theo t chu bn s 163 165 Khi nh quyn s 1, c th thy m Cu
mang li cm gic cu k v ngp mt.
Long ng Cn cn c gi tt l ng Cn. T chu ph ny cho
M Cu Long ng Cn th
hin trn tranh chn dung vua
T c v vua Thnh Thi.
Ngoi ra, t thi L - Trnh tr v trc,
bit: Chiu theo l ca quc
o giao lnh l dng o ph bin, s dng trong
triu hng nm gp cc tt
cung nh v dn gian, cho nn mt b Bo
oan Dng, ng ch th t
phc thng thng bao gm o Trung n c
nghi l Thng triu ti in
giao lnh mc lt bn trong, o on lnh c
Cn Chnh, xin hong thng
trn mc ra bn ngoi. Vo thi Nguyn, triu
i ng Cn, mc Long bo,
nh ph b kiu o giao lnh s dng trong
cm ngc khu.(1)
ngy thng, thay vo l loi o di nm
Kt hp vi ng Cn l
thn c ng ci khuy. C o bo ca vua quan
Long bo, song cn lu rng
nh Nguyn lc ny c nh thm mt lp lt bng la trng di ra

pha ngoi, i m phng c o giao lnh trc y.
Vua Thnh Thi, ng Khnh mc Thng phc.
Long bo Thng triu c b

cc hoa vn trang tr khc vi
Long bo i triu. Quy ch c th c Hi in m t: o bo lm

bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu vng chnh sc, bn trong lt cng

mu, thu rng ln v cc hnh c , bt bo, sng nc; mt rng
u khm ht h phch mu huyn, cn li u xu chui cc ht chu
1. Nguyn vn:
294
ngc nh. Hai mt o v hai ng tay o u
nh khng c s liu cp, ngoi tr thng tin ghi li trong tm bia i
xu chui cc ht chu ngc lm thnh hnh
Vit Lam sn D lng bi cho bit vua L Hin Tng mc o Cn, i m
m t (ch cc ch c ngha p nh Phc, Th v.v). C o
Min c dy hong mu son. Cn Min cng l L phc Tch in
lt on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc thu
ca cc vua triu Hn ng, khc vi quy ch L phc Tch in thi
hnh rng my. Hai di thy lu u thu
Tng Minh l m Thng Thin kt hp vi o bo .
hnh rng my. Thng dng sa mt bng
4. Qun phc
thun ch mu hoa xch, thu hnh rng ,
Vo thi vua Minh
sng nc, c , bt bo, cnh hoa v.v. pha
Mng, qun phc hay trang
di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng, lan can
phc nh vua s dng khi
mu hoa xch, gm on lt la mu , gm
duyt binh c quy nh
hng nht thu hoa sen thun vng mu bo
l m v i Long kt hp
lam. K y lm bng la sng. Bt tt c thn
vi Hong bo hp tay c
lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia

l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l
vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun vng, gm
hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, lt
Vn kin lin c mu xanh

Vua Khi nh i m Triu
phc, song li mc o bo
Thng phc.
sa, tru bng mu . Hia ging hia i triu(1).
thm. Song vi m t ca
Hi in, chng ta cng ch
bit M v i Long c
lm bng t lng v mu
Hi in cn cho bit, khi
en, lt on Bt ti bng
Qun phc ca vua triu Nguyn hp tay, vn kin lin

c. (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: Philippe Trng).
cy rung Tch in, vua i
mu vng chnh sc, lan can kim tuyn ca Ty dng, nh 4 hnh rng
m Cu Long ng Cn, Long
vng, 1 hnh ngn la, 2 hnh rng my, 1 hnh my, mt rng khm trn
bo hp tay mu vng, ai hia
chu, cn li u sc chu ngc. Thy anh dng lan can kim tuyn ca
ging nh trang phc duyt binh
Ty dng.(1) Cn nh hnh dng c th ca loi m ny ra sao, hin
(tc qun phc).(2)
Chng ti cho
chng ti cha c t liu tranh nh c th xc thc. Ring bo phc
rng, trang phc th hin trong
kt hp vi m v i Long, hin vn cn hin vt i chiu, v c bn
bc nh chn dung vua Thnh
khp vi m t ca Hi in:
Thi (m Cu Long ng Cn
o bo hp tay lm bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh
kt hp vi o bo hp tay, x
sc, thu rng my, sng nc, c , bt bo, lt tru mu hoa xch thu
bn vt, ai loan) chnh l trang
mu n, bm bm. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
phc cc vua nh Nguyn s dng trong ngy l Tch in. Trang phc
bo lam, u xu chui cc ht trn chu, san h nh. Vn kin lin c
s dng khi cy rung Tch in ca vua cha i Vit trc y hu
o lm bng on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, thu rng my, sng
Vua Thnh Thi mc l phc Tch in v vua

Duy Tn mc Thng phc.
nc, c , bt bo. o ngn M qui hai chic, lm bng t Bt ti mu

thm, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, hnh con di, ngn la. Thng
295
296
kp may bng t Bt ti bng mu
Ngoi ra, vo thi vua Khi nh, phn ln cc loi trang phc ca
vng chnh sc, thu i phng
vua u do vua t v kiu, thit k, ngay trang phc Cn Min t tri
v cc hnh lin ng, hi vn.
cng b ph cch bng cch mc i th pha sau ln pha trc
Di gu lm bng t Bt ti bng
thay cho t tt. c bit phi k n vic vua kt hp o bo hp tay, x
mu hoa xch, thu rng my,
4 vt s dng trong dp cy rung Tch in vi b qun phc chu u,
sng nc, lin ng, hi vn,
ng thi phi vi nn hoc khn xp, to ra mt trong nhng loi qun
lt tru mu hoa xch thu hnh
trang v tin khong hu. t trong bi cnh ng thi, khi vua nh
mu n, bm bm. Bn bn
Thanh, Triu Tin, Nht Bn u du nhp v rp khun theo mu qun
may lin t Bt ti bng mu ngc
phc phng Ty th chnh phong cch pha trn, ph v truyn thng
lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa

sen thun vng mu bo lam
gn tru mu thu mu n,
Qun phc ca vua Khi nh v Thi t Bo

Long (1936-2007).
th hin trn qun trang ca vua Khi nh li l nt c sc ca ring

ng v ring triu i ng tr v. Tuy nhin, ngoi b qun phc ph
cch, vua Khi nh vn c b qun trang chun mc theo ng dng
bm bm. Thy anh, long bi vng ba mt u lm bng vng, hnh
thc ca phng Ty. n thi vua Bo i, chng ta khng cn thy s
chic mc rng my, xung quanh si nhiu tuyn khm cc loi ngc ha
ph cch, pha trn ny thm na.
t, trn chu, kim cang, san h hn 300 ht, hn 50 di thy anh kim
tuyn. ai loan mt chic, lan can kim tuyn Ty dng khm 1 ht kim
cang hnh phng nh. Xung quanh khm ht kim cang, bn ngoi bc
Quy ch Triu phc v Thng
vng, khuy kp, chn cc xu chui trn chu, san h, thanh liu hnh
phc ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
hoa 9 a. Hia c thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm may xen vi t Bt ti
nh vo nm 1804 thi vua Gia Long.
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt t Bt ti bng mu hoa xch.
Nm 1831, vua Minh Mng nh ra quy
(1)
ch T phc Cn Min dnh cho hong

t, vng cng v cc quan nht, nh, tam
phm. Nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr, quy
ch Triu phc c sa i, ch yu
quy ch trang sc trn m Phc u.
1. L phc
1.1. L phc t Giao
Ngay t thi Xun Thu ti Trung
Vua Minh Tr Nht Bn (1852-1912), vua Khi nh Vit Nam (1885 - 1925), vua Ph Nghi Trung
Quc (1906-1967), vua Cao Tng Triu Tin (1852-1919) mc Qun phc.
Quc, Cn Min c quy nh l

trang phc i l dnh cho thin t nh
Chu, vua ch hu v mt s v i thn.
Ch Cn Min ca nc ta mun nht
c t nh vo triu inh, c k
tha qua cc triu i Tin L, L, Trn,
H v tuyt tch vo thi thuc Minh.
n thi vua L Thi Tng, quy ch Cn
Ng , nhc kh s dng khi t

Giao p dng theo Chu l. Ng ca
nh Thanh (Bo tng C cung Bc
Kinh), Ng ca nh Nguyn (BAVH)
v Ng ca Hn Quc (Bo tng C
cung quc lp Seoul). (nh: TQ).
297
Min mi c khi phc, ng thi

298
c duy tr qua cc i vua Nhn
a. Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng
Tng, Thnh Tng v Hin Tng. K
Theo quy ch L phc t Giao
t sau nhng chnh bin, ng lon
nm 1830, trang phc Cn Min p
cui thi L s, v vic vua L Trung
dng cho hong t v vng cng triu
Hng mt i thc quyn, quy ch Cn
Nguyn l m Min 9 lu, Cn phc 9
Min dnh cho vng cng dn b
chng. Quy ch m Min 9 lu c
ph b. n thng 12 nm 1755 thi

vua L Hin Tng, triu nh mi ch
ra o Cn m Min lm loi o mo
th Khng T trong Vn Miu(1). Sau
khi nh Nguyn thnh lp, nm 1831
Quy ch m Min 12 lu ca thin t nh
Chu (Choe Kye Sun. Trung Quc lch
i vng Min phc nghin cu) 1.
Lu (cn gi l Ngc To); 2. To (dy
t ng sc); 3. Ngc chu; 4. Tu; 5.
(Ngc) Hnh; 6. m; 7. Thu Khong
hoc (Ngc) Trn; 8. Sung Nh; 9. Honh
(Chu t: dy son); 10. Nu; 11. K (Trm
ngc); 12. V (cng cht liu, cng mu
vi Din); 13. Din (cn gi Min Bn. 1
thc 6 tc x 8 tc. Mt u trn, mt u
vung, vin mu son).
vua Minh Mng li tham kho quy

ch Tng - Minh t ra trang phc
Cn Min dnh cho vua quan triu
Nguyn, nh du s hon b v vn
hin o mo ca quc i Nam.
Mi mt triu i phong kin
qun ch, bt k triu L, Trn, L,
Nguyn ti Vit Nam, triu Tng, Minh
ti Trung Quc hay triu Cao Ly, Triu
299
quy nh: M lm bng loi lng ui

nga tt vng ngoi, pha trn chp
vn g (mc bn) lm ct, pha trc trn,
pha sau vung, bn ngoi bc bng
on t lt lnh mu . Trc sau u
c 9 dy lu, mi lu lm bng dy to
ng sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc. Trm ng
dn dy hong mu huyn, r xung
dy khong mu xanh, sung nh cht
ngc trn mu trng, tua dy hong
mu son. Xung quanh min bn vin
vng, tr hoa vn my r. M sc 1 bc
sn vng, 2 hoa vng, 4 giao long vng,
4 si kim tuyn, l ci trm (nu) cng
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng ca Vng

cng triu Nguyn (BAVH); 1. M
Min 9 lu; 2. Bc sn vng; 3. Ht
ng; 4. o Cn;. 5. T tt mu mc
ln trn thng mu nht; 6. i
th mu nht, pha di ni vi cc
tua ng sc. 7. Ngc bi. 8. Chng
Ph thu trn thng. 9. Chng Pht
hnh ch thu trn thng.
Tin, khi t nh in chng ch u tham kho nhng quy ch c
sc bng vng.(1) Trn thc t, thn m
in, c bn ca Trung Quc, trn c s t to ra mt nn vn hin
Min ca hong t, vng cng v cc
ring bit. n c nh trang phc Cn Min, mt b Cn phc dnh
quan triu Nguyn rt gn gi vi dng
cho thin t phi thu 12 chng, mt chic m Min dnh cho thin
m Phc u. Cng chnh v c hnh
t phi c 12 lu. B Cn Min ca vua nh Nguyn c th thy qua
dng m Phc u cho nn phn nh m giao vi min bn vn c
cc t liu tranh nh u khp vi nhng quy ch c in ny, song cc
th nh thm trang sc bc sn.
hoa vn, trang sc hay s kt hp cc dng phc sc u c nhiu nt

c sc ring bit, khng ln vi bt k vng triu no ca Trung Quc
hay Nht Bn, Triu Tin. Quy ch Cn Min dnh cho hong t, vng
Kt hp vi m Min 9 lu l Cn phc 9 chng. Trong :

o 5 chng may bng on mu xanh en, thu chng Long
vai, chng Sn lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng
cng v b quan nh Nguyn cng tng t nh vy.
3 hnh hai ng tay o. C o mu nh mu o (mu gc).

"Bt u ch
trang phc Cn Min th Vn Miu. Nguyn Huy Nhun, vin quan gi vic trong chnh ph dng li ni:
ng thnh nhn l thy ca vng mun i, th m t trc n nay phm phc th Vn Miu vn
dng Min phc ca quan t khu, nh th khng phi t lng tn sng. Bn h lnh i dng trang phc
Cn Min. Dng trang phc ca vng th Vn Miu, bt u t y.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn: ,
Thng 4 chng lm bng on mu nht (Hun thng), thu cc
chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht, mi chng

300
hai hnh, pha trc 3 bc, pha sau 4 bc, cc
301
hnh xen k nhau.

C o Trung n sa trng thu 9 hoa vn
chng Pht.
T tt lm bng on mu nht, thu
hai chng Ha v Sn, bn trn c 2 chic mc
bng thau m vng.
Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc hnh (hnh
chic khnh),
hong
2 ngc c (hnh ch nht), cc loi ngc
(hnh bn nguyt),
xung nha
(hnh rng)
tr
ln u dng ng m vng, t ngc hnh

tr xung tht vi nm dy chp xu vi trn
Gia Hng vng mc Cn

Min 9 lu 9 chng. (nh:
Trnh Bch cung cp).
chu cht liu ngc (ngc liu chu), pha trn c mc thau m vng.
i th pha trn
lm bng on mu
nht, thu hai chng
Ha, Sn; pha di ni
Vng cng triu Nguyn bi t mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. (BAVH).
vi cc tua ng sc.
i i pha trong
mu son pha ngoi mu
lc, ni vi cch i mu
nht, 6 ming ai hnh
vung, qu trm sc pha
trc, b mt u khm
i mi, vin vng.
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. T tt v i th u thu hai
chng Ha v Sn. (BAVH).
Vng cn, hia, bt tt

u nh Triu phc.(1)
Cn phc 9 chng ca vua Triu Tin. Long 2 vai, Sn lng, cc chng

Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng tay o. (Hn Quc phc ch).
BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 9 LU 9 CHNG CA

302
HONG T NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH MINH TRUNG QUC

(theo Khm nh i Nam hi in s l, Minh hi in)
vng
cng
Theo quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh, Hong mc Cn Min 12

lu 12 chng, hong t, vng cng mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng, qun
vng mc Cn Min 7 lu 7 chng, b quan vn v t nht phm tr
Quy ch ca nh Nguyn
Vit Nam
Quy ch ca nh Minh
Trung Quc

sau vung, pha trc v sau u 9
lu, mi lu lm bng to ng sc,
9 tu, xu 9 ngc; trm ng, dy
hong mu huyn nh tua mu
; dy khong mu xanh, sung
nh cht ngc trn mu trng

sau vung, pha trc v sau u
9 lu, mi lu lm bng to ng
sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc ng sc xen
k; trm ngc, ngc hnh, dy
m mu huyn, dy khong mu
xanh, sung nh dng ngc xanh,
dy hong mu , ngc trn mu
trng
-Cn phc mu xanh, thu 5

Tng di, Ha; Long 2 vai, Sn
-Cn phc en huyn, thu 5

Tng di, Ha; Long hai vai, Sn
Cn Min 6 Lu 5 Chng v 4 Lu 3 Chng ca cc quan triu Nguyn. (BAVH).
-Thng mu nht: thu 4

mi chng 2 hnh
-Thng mu nht: thu 4

mi chng 2 hnh
Tuy nhin, theo quy ch ca nh Nguyn, cc quan t chnh nh

thu 9 chng Pht

c o mu xanh, thu 11 chng
Pht
-T tt mu nht, thu 2
chng Ha v Sn
-T tt mu nht, thu 4
chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht
-i th pha trn thu hai chng

Ha, Sn, pha di ni vi tua
ng sc
-i th 4 mu nh tiu th 3
mu kt 2 ngc hon gia

hnh, 2 ngc c; cc loi ngc
hong, xung nha tr ln u dng
ng m vng; t ngc hnh tr
xung tht vi nm dy chp xu
vi trn chu cht liu ngc, pha
trn c mc thau m vng

hnh, 1 ngc v, 1 ngc c, 1 xung
nha, 2 ngc hong, di ngc v
r 1 ngc hoa, 2 ngc ch; t ngc
hnh tr xung, tht vi 5 tua, xu
ngc chu; pha trn c mc vng
-Cch i mu nht, vin vng
-Cch i c mc vng
-Tt pha trn gn h tt, may

bng gm, hia u vung mu en
-Tt trng, giy Tch
Hong
t ,
b. Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, 4 lu 3 chng
xung u mc Triu phc Lng Quan lm l, khng c mc Cn Min.
phm tr ln c mc Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, cc quan vn tng nh

phm v chnh tam phm c mc Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng(1). y li
l quy ch Thu Min v Hy Min p dng cho cc quan nh Tng. Tng
s ghi nhn: Thu Min 6 lu, o 3 chng, thu H du di (tc Tng di),
To, Phn m. Thng 2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] cc chc th lang
ca su b c mc; Hy Min 4 lu, o 1 chng, thu Phn m. Thng
2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] Cc chc quang lc khanh, gim st ng
s, c sch quan, c sch quan, phn hin quan tr ln c mc.(2)
2. (Trung) Tng s. Q.152 Ch. nht bch ng. D phc T. Nguyn vn:
[]
303
Nh vy, mt cch tng

304
quan c th thy quy ch Cn
305
Min ca nh Nguyn
tham kho t hai ngun chnh
l quy ch nh Tng v nh
Minh, khp vi li nhn nh
c phn khoa trng ca triu
thn L Vn Phc ai rng
m cao, y y phc Tng Minh
vy. Trong , Cn Min 9
lu 9 chng c tham kho
t quy ch Minh, cn Cn
Min 6 lu 5 chng v 4 lu
Trang phc Hong v Hong thn triu Nguyn mc khi t Giao do Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm
1902 (Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht) ch l dng trang phc v theo tr tng tng ca
ha s. C l do Nguyn Vn Nhn cha c chng kin l t Nam Giao tn mt thy Cn Min.
3 chng c tham kho t

quy ch Tng. D nhin, nh
chng ti cp, ton b
kiu dng hoa vn, trang sc,
QUY CH CN MIN CA CC QUAN NH NGUYN
cng nh s kt hp gia cc
(theo Hi in)
phc sc (Thng, K y, i
th, t tt, i i v.v.) trong
b Cn phc ca Vit Nam
khng rp khun theo t l 1:1
so vi quy ch c ca Trung
Quc. Tnh hnh ny cng xy
ra tng t Triu Tin. So
snh s b tr hoa vn Ha,
Hoa trng, Tng di trn o
Cn 9 chng ca vua Triu
Tin vi o Cn 9 chng ca
vng cng triu Nguyn, c
th thy c s i ng tiu
d ny.
Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng ca Quan

vn Tng Nh phm v Chnh Tam
phm. (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip).
[]
Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng
Cc quan chnh nh phm
tr ln
Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng
Quan vn tng nh phm
v Chnh tam phm
M Min trc v sau u c 6 lu, mi

lu 5 dy thi to, 6 tu, xu bi 6 ht chu
cht liu ngc; xung quanh min bn
qun ng khc hoa vn my r; m m
vng sc bc sn vng, 2 giao long vng, 1
kim tuyn, ch ci trm cng sc bng
vng, cn li u theo quy ch Min phc
ca hong t v vng cng
M Min pha trc v sau u 4

lu, mi lu 5 thi to, 4 tu, xu
4 vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li
u theo quy ch ca quan chnh
nh phm; ring lc b i 2 hnh
giao long vng
o xanh 3 chng thu Phn m 2 hnh

vai 1 hnh lng; To, Tng di hai tay o,
mi chng 3 hnh; c o nh mu o
o xanh 1 chng thu Phn m 2

hnh vai, 1 hnh lng, hai ng
tay o cng li thu mi bn 2 hnh;
Thng mu nht 2 chng, thu Ph,

Pht mi chng 2 hnh; c o Trung n
lm bng sa trng thu 7 hnh Pht
Thng mu nht 2 chng,

thu 2 hnh Ph v 2 hnh Pht
T tt v i th u thu chng Sn. i th trong v ngoi u lm bng l

trng, phn eo khng c vin, ch r xung vin mu lc. Ngc bi xu bi 3
vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li u theo quy ch bi, th ca hong t v cc
vng cng. ai mu nht, mt trc sc 6 ming gm hnh vung ln hnh
qu trm, b mt u khm i mi, vin ng m vng
306
1.2. L phc Tch in
2. Triu phc
Tch in l mt trong nhng
Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, b quan
bui l quan trng ca cc nc nng
nht lot i m Phc u kt hp vi B phc. Vo thi Nguyn, m
nghip. t nht t nm 987, vua L
Phc u vn c p dng lm m Triu phc cho vn v b quan,
i Hnh ln u cy rung Tch
song c phn lm ba loi: m Phc u dng trn dnh cho quan vn,
in. Tuy nhin, do s khut lp ca
m Phc u dng vung dnh cho quan v v m Phc u nh thm
s liu, chng ta hin khng th bit
2 sng bc gi l m Gii Tri p dng cho Php quan (cc quan thc thi
c loi trang phc s dng vo dp
php lut v ng s). M Triu phc ca hong thn, thn vng nh
l Tch in ca vua quan cc triu i
Nguyn ch yu c ba loi: m Bnh nh, m Kim Quan v m Phc
inh, Tin L, L, Trn, H, Hu L.
u vung.
Song chng ti ng rng, L phc Tch
Ngoi ra, vo thi Nguyn, quy ch B t Triu phc thi L Trung
in ca cc triu i trc y c l
Hng c thay i, quay tr li lm Thng phc nh quy ch triu L
khng nm ngoi cc b Triu phc v
s v triu Minh. Song i vi cc chc quan lc phm, tht phm, o
Thng phc, c chng xut hin mt

vi bin cch nh tng t nh quy
Thng phc v Triu phc ca cc quan

triu Nguyn. (BAVH).
ch ca triu Nguyn.
bo Triu phc vn s dng B phc kt hp vi m Phc u. Ring

o bo Triu phc ca cc quan t nht phm n ng phm ln lt
c phn bit l cc loi Mng bo (cn gi l o bo T linh, thu hnh long, ln,
i vi quy ch L phc Tch in ca vua quan triu Nguyn, Hi
quy, phng),
Giao bo (o bo giao long) v Hoa bo (o bo hoa).
in ghi nhn, L phc ca hong l m Cu Long ng Cn kt
a. Tht Long ng Cn
hp vi Long bo hp tay mu vng. Nm 1827, L phc Tch in ca
Nm 1811, Triu phc
cc quan vn v chp s c quy nh l o Thi bo hp tay mu
ca hong thi t c quy
lam. Quan v i m H u, quan vn i m Vn Cng, m Xun
nh, m dng Tht Long
Thu. Bt, cu phm i Anh Cn, o Thi y hp tay. ai lng la mu

lam(1); nm 1849, L phc Tch in ca hong t v cc vng cng
c quy nh l m Kim Quan, o Thi bo hp tay mu . Trong
(2)
, m Cu Long ng Cn, m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh
ng Cn sc vng v
ngc chu. o bo rng
mu sm. Thng thu
rng 5 mng. ai sc vng
Cn l m Thng phc ca vua v vn v b quan; m Kim Quan l
tr rng.(1) Loi m Triu
m Triu phc ca hong t v thn vng. C iu, khc vi quy ch
phc Tht Long ng Cn
Thng phc B t, L phc Tch in ca vua quan nh Nguyn l s
ca hong thi t c kiu
kt hp gia m Thng phc v cc loi o Thi bo, Thi y hp tay, tc
dng tng t m Thng
loi o c thu hoa vn sc s, tng t nh o bo Triu phc.
triu Cu Long ng Cn
Quy ch c th ca cc loi m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh

Cn, Kim Quan chng ti s tip tc trnh by phn sau.
ca hong , song s lng

trang sc trn m c s gia
Vua Bo i khi cn l Hong thi t v Hong thi t

Bo Long mc Triu phc.
gim. Bc nh vua Bo i
307
QUY CH TRIU PHC BNH NH NM 1845

(theo Hi in)
308
Long bo c trn, mu sm (i Xch) ca vua ng Khnh khi cn lm Hong Thi t.
khi cn l Hong thi t v bc nh Hong thi t
Hong t, hong thn c

phong tc thn vng,
qun vng
Hong t, hong thn c phong

tc thn cng, quc cng
M
Bnh
nh
6 hoa vng, 6 rng, (?) giao

long, 24 vn kh, 10 ngn la,
4 nhiu tuyn, 4 hnh c
v 4 thy vn, nh m tr 2
hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
4 hoa vng, 4 rng, 2 giao long, 24

vn kh, 10 ngn la, 4 nhiu tuyn,
2 hnh c v 2 thy vn, nh m
tr 2 hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
o bo
o bo i vn mu sm
lm bng on Bt ti ng sc
gia kim
o bo T linh mu i xch lm
bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim
ai
Trc sau c 18 ming, b

mt tr hnh mng khm
vng, cc ming ai u bc
vng
Phi tri trc sau 18 ming; ai

ca thn cng b mt tr hnh k
ln khm vng, u bc vng; ai
ca quc cng ming chnh gia
pha trc tr hnh k ln khm
vng, 4 ming hnh dt bn phi
v tri b mt tr hnh hoa khm
vng, 13 ming cn li b mt khm
gng, cc ming ai xen k nhau,
u bc vng
Bo Long trong l tn phong u th hin b Triu

phc ny.
b. Bnh nh (Bnh Thin)
Nm 1816, Triu phc ca cc v hong t,
hong tn, cng t c quy nh, m dng m
Bnh Thin sc vng v ngc chu. o bo dng
Mng bo c trn, mu sm. Thng thu rng
4 mng. ai sc vng rng 4 mng.
(1)
Thng
Tuy nhin
16 nm sau, vua Minh Mng ra li d, quy nh

i tn m Bnh Thin thnh m Bnh nh v cho
rng tn Bnh Thin l tn nm na khng c in
nh, v li hai ch Bnh Thin cng khng phi t
dnh cho phn b ti(2), ng thi quy nh, m
Bnh nh l m Triu phc p dng cho hong
t, hong thn c phong tc thn vng, qun
vng, thn cng, qun cng.
Tuy L vng Min

Trinh v Hong Ha
Qun vng Min
Trin i m Bnh nh
(BAVH).

. Tr.36. Nguyn vn:
M Kim quan. 1. M trong chn dung Tng thin vng Min Thm (mi tn : Bc Sn vng);
2, 4. M lu gi ti Bo tng Qun s Php (nh: Nguyn Nh an Huyn); 3. M lu gi ti
BTLSVN (nh: TQ). gii: 1.Hu x; 2. H k; 3. H Nh; 4. Giao long; 5. Vn kh; 6. Hoa;
7. Thy vn.
309
310
c. Kim Quan
d. Phc u
Theo Hi in, m Kim Quan kt hp vi o bo T linh mu l
M Phc u c p dng
Triu phc ca hong t, hong thn c phong tc qun cng, huyn
rng ri lm m Triu phc cho b
cng, hng cng, huyn hu v hng hu.
quan vn v v mt s v hong t,
311
hong thn, tn tht triu Nguyn.

Trong , m Phc u trn c
quy nh l m Triu phc ca quan
vn, m Phc u vung l m Triu
phc ca quan v (ngoi tr quan bt, cu
phm)(1),
ng thi cng l m Triu
phc ca cc v tn tht c phong
M Phc u trn, m Phc u vung,

m Gii Tri. (BAVH).
tc thn vng, qun vng, thn

cng, quc cng, qun cng, huyn
cng, hng cng, huyn hu, hng
hu, cc v hong t, hong thn, tn
tht c phong tc k ngoi hu,
k ni hu, nh hu, tr quc khanh,
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh,
Tng Thin vng Min Thm (1819 - 1870), i m Kim Quan; Quc cu triu
Nguyn lm ch hn trong m ci ca cng cha, i m Kim quan. (BAVH).
QUY CH M KIM QUAN NM 1845

(theo Hi in)
M
Kim
Quan
o bo
ai
Thng
Hong t, hong thn c

phong tc qun cng,
huyn cng
Hong t, hong thn c

phong hng cng, huyn hu,
hng hu
Sc 2 bc sn vng, pha trc v

sau 3 hoa vng, pha trc 4 giao
long vng, trn nh 2 hnh my,
1 hu x (cnh sau), 1 h k (bm
h), 2 h nh (tai h), 6 vn kh,
nh m tr 1 thy vn, 4 ngn
la, u kt chui ht gi chu
Sc 2 bc sn vng, trc v sau 2

hoa vng, cn li ging hong t,
thn vng c phong huyn
cng
o bo T linh mu hoa xch lm bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim
tr quc y, t quc y, phng quc

y, tr quc lang, t quc lang, phng
quc lang(2). Ngoi ra, loi m Phc
Hin vt m Phc u vung ca quan

v Nht phm triu Nguyn (b su tp
c nhn).
Trang sc: 1. Bc sn (cn gi l kha
kiu); 2. Hoa; 3. Giao long; 4. Ngch
tng; 5. Kha gin (cn gi l ht); 6.
Nh ; 7. Nhiu tuyn.
u c nh hai sng bc trang

sc bc sn, gi l m Gii Tri, l
m Triu phc ca ng s, ph
ng s v cc chc khoa o chng
n(3).
Quy ch Triu phc Phc u
ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
nh ln u tin vo nm 1804 thi
vua Gia Long, c chnh sa vo
nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr. Quy ch
nm 1845, v c bn tng t quy ch
Trang sc m Phc u. 1. Bc sn vng

kha kiu vng; 2. Cnh chun vin bc
vng, u sc vng, b mt nh giao long
vng; 3. Giao long vng; 4. Kha gin
vng Ht vng.
Ming chnh gia pha trc tr hnh k ln khm vng, 17 ming

cn li b mt khm gng, u bc vng

2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.25-31.
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.56-57.
nm 1804, song tn gi ca mt s loi trang sc v s lng trang sc

312
trn m c s thay i. Nh thi Gia Long, trang sc bc sn c gi

l kha kiu, ht (trang sc trn m) c gi l kha gin v.v. Ngoi ra, t
nm 1845 tr v sau, ch c cc quan t lc phm tr ln mi c mc
Triu phc.
BNG SO SNH QUY CH TRANG SC M PHC U
NM 1804 V NM 1845
(theo Hi in)
B quan
Quy ch nm 1804
Trn
nht
phm
(Tn
nhn
ph tn
nhn
lnh)
-Phc u trn:
1 kha kiu vng,
2 ht vng cao 6
phn; ngch tng
vng, hoa vng
mt trc v sau,
hai cnh chun
vin bc vng, sc
giao long vng
Quy ch nm 1845
Tn tht c
phong tc thn
vng, qun vng
1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch
tng vng cao 4 phn
tr hnh giao long, 2
kha gin vng, pha
trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao
long vng, pha sau
2 hoa vng; hai cnh
chun vin bc vng,
b mt sc giao long
vng vn ngc chu,
u cnh chun u sc
vng; 2 nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn vng
Tn tht c
phong tc thn
cng, quc cng
Nh trn, ring ngch

tng cao 3 phn tr
hnh hoa; hai cnh
chun sc giao long
vng, u cnh chun
khng sc vng l khc
bit
-Phc u vung:
1 kha kiu vng,
2 ht vng 5 phn;
cn li nh trn
Tn tht c
phong tc qun
cng, huyn cng
Nh tn tht c
phong tc thn cng,
quc
cng,
nhng
khng c ngch tng
Tn tht c
phong hng cng,
huyn hu, hng
hu
So vi tn tht c
phong tc qun cng,
m Phc u vung
lc i 1 hoa vng pha
sau, mt m lc trang
sc giao long vng
Hong t,
thn vng, tn
tht c phong k
ngoi hu, k ni
hu, nh hu, tr
quc khanh
1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
gin vng, trc sau
1 hoa vng; hai cnh
chun vin bc bc; 2
nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
bc
Hong t,
thn vng, tn
tht c phong t
quc khanh, phng
quc khanh, tr
quc y, t quc y
1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
gin bc, trc sau 1
hoa bc; hai cnh chun
vin bc bc; 2 nh
bc, 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Hong t, thn
vng, tn tht
c phong phng
quc y, tr quc
lang, t quc lang,
phng quc lang
Trc sau 1 hoa bc, hai

cnh chun vin bc
bc, 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu
tuyn bc.
Chnh
tng
nht
phm
-Chnh nht phm:

nh quan trn nht
phm (1 kha kiu
vng, 2 ht vng
cao 6 phn; ngch
tng vng, hoa
vng mt trc v
sau, hai cnh chun
vin bc vng, sc
giao long vng)
-Tng nht phm:
1 kha kiu vng, 2
ht vng cao 5 phn,
cn li nh quan
trn nht phm
-Chnh nht phm: 1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch

tng vng cao 4 phn, pha ngoi tr hnh
giao long; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc 1 hoa
vng, 2 giao long vng; pha sau 2 hoa vng;
hai cnh chun vin bc vng, b mt sc giao
long bn ngc bng vng, u cnh chun u
sc vng; 2 nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Tng nht phm: nh chnh nht phm; ring
ngch tng cao 3 phn, tr hnh hoa; mt
m khng c ngc chu; u hai cnh chun
khng sc vng
Chnh
tng nh
phm
1 kha kiu vng,

hoa vng mt
trc v sau, hai
cnh chun vin
bc vng, sc giao
long vng
-Chnh nh phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin

vng; pha trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao long vng;
pha sau 2 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc
vng, b mt sc giao long vng; 2 nh vng,
2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Tng nh phm: nh chnh nh phm; ring
b trang sc giao long mt m
Chnh
tng
tam
phm
1 kha kiu vng,

hoa vng mt
trc v mt sau;
hai cnh chun
vin bc vng
-Chnh tam phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin

vng; pha trc pha sau u c 1 hoa vng; 2
giao long vng; 2 cnh chun vin bc vng; 2
nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Tng tam phm: nh chnh tam phm; ring
b 2 giao long vng
313
314
Chnh
tng t
phm
1 kha kiu bc, hoa

vng mt trc v
sau, hai cnh chun
vin bc vng
1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc v

sau u 1 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc
vng; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Chnh
tng
ng
phm
1 kha kiu bc, hoa

bc mt trc v
sau, hai cnh chun
vin bc bc
1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin bc; pha trc v

sau u 1 hoa bc; hai cnh chun vin bc
bc; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Chnh
tng
lc
phm
Hoa bc mt trc
v sau, hai cnh
chun vin bc bc
Pha trc, sau u c 1 hoa bc; hai cnh

chun vin bc bc; 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
bc
Chnh
tng
tht
phm
Hoa bc trc sau

u 1 bng, hai
cnh chun vin
trn
lm bng tru thu hoa. Quan lc phm

mc B phc Bch nhn mu ngc lam, o
lm bng tru bng khng thu hoa.
Nam phng danh vt b kho chp:
Mng bo l o i triu ca cc quan t
tam phm tr ln, thu hnh mng. Quan
chnh nht phm mu ng hng, tng
mu bic, tng nh phm mu lc, chnh
tam phm mu bo lam, tng tam phm
Vng cn, li bc tc, ai, ht,
Hia. (BAVH).
mu ngc lam. Giao bo l o i triu ca

quan t phm, thu hnh giao long. Lam
bo l o i triu ca quan ng phm v lc phm, o ca quan ng
Quy ch Triu phc m Phc u
phm thu thm hoa. Hoa bo l o vua ban cho cc v tam khi. Lc bo
kt hp vi B phc thi L Trung Hng
l o vua ban cho tin s.(1)
vn tip tc c p dng i vi cc
Ti Trung Quc, Mng bo xut
chc quan ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
hin t thi Minh, c gi l Mng y
Bn cnh , quy ch triu Nguyn quy
hoc Mng phc, nu khng c vua
nh: cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mc
c ban, b quan khng c s dng.
Mng bo; quan t phm theo quy ch
Vo thi Thanh, Mng bo c s
nm 1804 mc Hoa bo, t nm 1845 tr
dng lm L phc cho hong t, thn
v sau i sang mc Giao bo.
vng v vn v b quan, phn nhiu
V sc phc ca o bo i Triu,
c dng trong cc dp l tt ln nh
theo Hi in, quy ch nm 1804 quy
l Vn Th, Tt Thng Nguyn v Tt
nh, o bo Triu phc dnh cho cc
Nguyn n v.v.
quan trn nht phm l Mng bo c
Khm nh i Thanh hi in
trn mu ta, t nht phm tr xung,

nghi. Quy ch ny c sa i vo nm
B phc Vn nhn mu bo lam, o bo
nht phm mu xanh, chnh nh phm
e. Bo phc
cc mu xanh, lc, lam, en cho c ty
bo mu quan lc. Quan ng phm mc
Quan ng phm triu Nguyn mc

Triu phc. (nh: Nguyn Giang).
1845, lc ny cc quan t Tam phm tr ln u mc Mng bo, trong

quan trn nht phm mc mu ta, quan chnh nht phm mc mu
cho bit: Mng bo, mu lam v mu

thch thanh cho c ty nghi s dng,
vin vng. Thn vng, qun vng
thng dng o bo thu 9 hnh mng.
Mng bo rng my sng nc dnh cho

Hong t triu Thanh (Thanh Hi in).
c ng, tng nht phm mc mu thin thanh, chnh nh phm mc

mu cam bch, tng nh phm mc mu quan lc, chnh tam phm mc
mu bo lam, tng tam phm mu ngc lam. Quan t phm mc Giao
1. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:
315
Bi lc tr xung ti cc
tham kho b cc rng my,
quan vn v tam phm,
sng nc ca Mng bo Trung
qun qun ngch ph,
Quc giai on cui Minh u
phng quc tng qun,
Thanh. Tuy nhin, Mng bo ca b
nht ng th v u dng
quan triu Nguyn cn c thu
o bo thu 9 hnh mng
hnh phng, k ln v ra, ng
bn mng. Quan vn v
thi c tn gi l o bo T linh.
t, ng, lc phm, phng
Nm 1832 vua Minh Mng ra ch
n tng qun, huyn
d, xa nay o bo ca quan tam
qun ngch ph, nh ng
phm tr ln, tc gi l o bo T
th v tr xung dng o
linh, c hnh rng nm trong s
bo thu 8 hnh mng bn
[] cch gi nh vy u khng ph
mng. Quan vn v tht, bt, cu phm, quan v nhp lu dng o bo
hp, bi hnh phng, ln, ra ch
thu 5 hnh mng bn mng. Vt o, tn tht, thn vng tr xung u x
l hnh ph ha m thi, ch cn gi
bn vt, b quan vn v ch x hai vt trc sau. Ti Vit Nam, quy ch
Mng bo l c.(1) Mt khc, trn
Mng bo c p dng lm Triu phc cho b quan vn v ng Trong
lng o bo triu Nguyn cn bo
k t nm 1744 sau ci cch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot. i Nam thc
lu hai cnh l ph hu thi Minh
lc ghi: Cha [] chm chc ch cc i, nh Triu phc vn v. Vn
(nh L Trung Hng cng m phng dng thc
t qun b n chim hu, hun o, v t chng dinh n cai i, m
ny),
sc vng bc, o dng
Trung Quc.
316
Mt trc v mt sau ca Mng bo v Hoa bo triu

Nguyn. (BAVH).
(1)
Mng bo hoc gm
on theo cp bc.
317
Cc quan v mc Triu phc; Mt trong ba v

Tam khi triu Nguyn mc o Hoa bo, ci
hoa bc trn m. Quan nh phm mc Mng
bo v quan t phm mc Giao bo. (nh:
Albert Kahn).
ph kin ny khng xut hin trn o bo ca cc quan nh Thanh

Ngoi ra, khc vi quy ch o mo thi L Trung Hng, bt k
(2)
Cn phc, L phc, Triu phc hay Thng phc ca vua quan triu
L Qu n cng ghi
Nguyn u phi vi thng - K y, mt dng xim o mc lt bn trong
nhn sau ci cch ny,

cc quan ng Trong
dng Mng bo thy
ba (hoa vn sng nc), m
mo dng vng bc
trang sc(3).
Mng bo triu
Nguyn nhn chung
1. Mng bo (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: TQ); 2. Mng

bo mu ta ca quan Chnh nht phm v B phc Vn nhn
ca quan ng phm (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh
an Huyn).
1. (Trung) Khm nh i Thanh hi in - Q.47. Nguyn vn:

Xim - thng ca quan triu Nguyn.
Hin vt Mng bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch).
Hin vt Mng bo (nh: Philippe Trng), Giao bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch).
Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht (Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm 1902). nh 1: Hong

, thi gim, hip lnh th v mc Triu phc. nh 2: Quan vn Chnh nht phm mc Triu phc
Phc u - Mng bo.
nh 3: Hong thn mc Triu phc m Kim Quan - Mng bo. nh 4: Quan vn Chnh, Tng
Ng phm mc Triu phc Phc u - Hoa bo (Theo Hi in v t liu nh chp chng ti c,
quan Ng phm khng mc Hoa bo m mc B phc. Hoa bo ch dnh cho cc v Tam khi).
322
o bo. Tuy nhin, thng ca
chnh l loi m c cc quan triu
vua quan nh Nguyn khc vi
Ty Sn s dng t th k XVIII qua li
loi thng Tin phc c s
ghi nhn ca vn thn Triu Tin Kim
dng ph bin thi L - Trn.
Chnh Trung.
Thng thi L - Trn l loi
Kt hp vi m Vn Cng l B
vy quy mu en gp np, cn
phc giao lnh. Trong , o giao lnh
thng thi Nguyn gn vi o
c lm bng sa, on, cc mu xanh,
cc tay c trn, ng thi c
lc, lam, en c ty nghi, ring c
thu ln v s hoa vn my
B quan nh Nguyn trong bui chu Thng triu.
o trng(1). B t dnh cho quan nht,
nc, c , bt bo v linh th. y c th coi l quy ch trang phc
nh phm l Tin hc, B t ca quan
mc lt c o ca ring triu Nguyn.

3. Thng phc
M ng Pha, Vn T Ti (BAVH).
Quan vn Lc phm i m ng Pha.
tam phm l Cm k. Thng, hia v

tt tng t quy ch i triu.
Quy ch Triu phc ca b quan nh Nguyn c t nh da
b. M ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn
trn hai ngun tham kho chnh l quy ch B phc ca triu L Trung
Nam phng danh vt b kho ch r: M ng Pha l m Thng
Hng v kiu dng Mng bo ca Trung Quc giai on cui Minh u
triu ca quan vn lc phm tr ln, m Vn T Ti l m Thng triu
M Vn Cng (BAVH); Quan vn

mc Thng phc Vn Cng. (Vit
Nam qua tranh khc).
Thanh. Cn trong quy ch Thng phc,
ca quan vn cu phm tr ln.(2) Theo Hi
triu nh nh Nguyn tip tc kt hp quy
in, m Vn T Ti cn c p dng lm
ch B phc ca triu L Trung Hng vi
m Thng phc cho quan v tng tht phm,
quy ch B phc ca nh Minh, song song
tng bt phm v tng cu phm (quan v tht
vi vic t nh mt s dng m mo c
phm tr xung ch t tng, khng t chnh).
o nh m Vn Cng, H u, ng Pha,
Quan vn cha nhp lu c quy nh
Xun Thu v.v. c bit, B phc ca nh L
i m Phong Cn. y cng chnh l m L
v nh Minh l dng o bo on lnh c
phc ca dn gian, p dng cho th dn sau khi
trn gn B t, nh Nguyn k tha mt
trn 20 tui, c tnh cht tng t nh loi m
phn quy ch ny p dng lm Triu phc
Sa n dng ca triu L Trung Hng. Quc
cho cc quan ng, lc, tht phm. Quy ch
s di bin ghi nhn, vn giai cha nhp lu,
Thng phc li quy nh B T nh ln
s t thi , hoc mn i nhiu hc, hoc su
o giao lnh.
nm nhiu hc, m dng Phong Cn, trc sau
3.1. Quy ch m mo
m thu hoa bc u mt ci, mc theo thn
a. M Vn Cng
phn mnh, o giao lnh, sa on cc sc xanh,
M Vn Cng l m Thng phc p
lc, lam, en, khng B t. Th dn cha lm
Lm m T Ti (K thut
ca ngi An Nam).
dng cho quan vn nht, nh, tam phm,

trang sc ton bng vng, c hai di Anh
sc hoa vng khm ngc chu(1). y cng
. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78 - Vn v quan phc. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:
323
324
quan: phm c vic nghi l gia
hin nay c chiu hng khoa trng sc s, thiu nhng nt tinh t v
quan, m dng Phong Cn sc
v in nh ca Phong Cn ngy xa.
325
en, khng thu hoa, o dng

o giao lnh mu thm, giy, tt
QUY CH M THNG PHC
u mu en.(1) Loi m Phong
CA B QUAN NH NGUYN (1804)

(theo Hi in)
Cn trong dn gian vn c gi
Cc chc sc trong lng mc L phc Phong Cn,
Quan vn Ng phm mc Thng triu phc
ng Pha. (nh: Albert Kahn).
l m T Ti. i Nam quc m

t v nh ngha m T ti cng
l mo gia l.
Cc s t ti trng thi Nam nh i m Phong Cn, mc o giao lnh. Hi in

cho bit L phc ca dn gian l m Phong Cn kt hp vi o giao lnh, giy
tt u mu thm en. Quc S di bin cn ghi nhn m Phong Cn, o giao
lnh l trang phc dng trong l Gia Quan dnh cho nam gii khi trn 20 tui.
i chiu m t ca s liu vi t liu tranh nh u th k XX, c

bit l hnh v m ng Pha, Vn T Ti ca Tn Tht Sa trong BAVH, c
th thy trn thc t m ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn u c kiu
dng tng t, c phn bit bi quy ch trang sc v mt s chi tit
nh kt cu m. Do m Phong Cn, m T Ti c quy nh l m L
phc ca dn gian, nn vn c duy tr n ngy hm nay, vi t cch
l m t s dng trong cc dp t l hi h ca ngi Vit. C iu, m t
Quan vn
Quan v
Trn nht
phm
Vn Cng: sc ton vng, hai di

thy anh trang sc kim hoa khm
ngc chu
H u: sc ton vng
Nht phm
Vn Cng: sc ton vng
H u
Nh phm
Vn Cng
H u
Tam phm
Vn Cng
H u
T phm
ng Pha: Hoa vng mt trc

v sau, cc trang sc nh hoa,
giao long u dng bc
Xun Thu
Ng phm

2 giao long bc
Xun Thu
Lc phm

Xun Thu (Quan v tht

phm tr xung ch t
tng, khng t chnh)
Tht phm

2 giao long bc, pha sau 1
hoa bc
Tng tht phm i Vn T

Ti nh vn chnh
tht phm
Bt phm

sau 1 hoa bc
Tng bt phm i Vn T
Ti nh vn chnh bt phm
Cu phm
Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc
Tng cu phm i Vn T
Ti nh chnh cu phm
Cha nhp
lu
Phong Cn: trc sau u sc 1

si bc
Anh Cn: trc sau u sc

1 si bc
c. M H u
Vo thng 2 nm 2011, mt pho tng v tng lm bng t nung,
i m hnh u h, mc o gip c pht hin ti x Ph Thun,
huyn c Ph, tnh Qung Ngi(1). Loi m th hin trn pho tng
1. (Vit) Quc s di bin. 1821. Tp trung 16a. Nguyn vn:
1. Qung Ngi: Tm thy mt pho tng qu. Bo Si Gn Gii phng Online. Bi ng ngy 17/03/2011.
326
Cc v quan triu Nguyn i m H u, mc o Mng lan.
ny v c bn khp vi loi m trn tng ngi thi Trn. Cn lu

rng, vo nm 1756, cha Nguyn Phc Khot ln u tin lnh cho ba
qun tng s ng Trong i H Th u mo, hay cn gi l H u
mo(1). Gia hai loi m th hin trn hai pho tng khng ng i ny
cha chc c mi quan h k tha trc tip, song c th u c m
1. Quan v tam phm i m H u, mc B phc;

2. M H u (BAVH).
phng theo quy ch H quan thi ng. Tuy nhin, c th khng nh,
m H quan thi ng khng c mi lin h v mt to hnh vi m
H u (H u quan) ca cc v quan triu Nguyn.
Vo thi Nguyn, t nm 1804, m H u kt hp vi B phc K
ln, Bch trch, S t c quy nh l Thng phc ca quan v nht,
nh, tam phm. Nm 1845, vua Thiu Tr ph chun cho cc quan v gi
cc chc thng qun, cai qun cc qun doanh cho n chng ph
thng, thng ch, chng v, v y, ph v y u c i m H u
kt hp vi o Mng lan(2).
o Mng lan l dng o hp tay, c li thu sc tng t nh Mng
bo, song chiu di vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng bo. Hi in
cho bit: Trc y o hp tay ca quan vin th v c gi l o Long
Chn, nh vy khng ph hp [] nay gi o hp tay l Mng lan mi phi.
T ry khng c gi theo cch gi trc kia lm r danh phn.(3)
1756
B t K ln ca triu Nguyn (Silken threadsA History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan

and Vietnam).
Thng phc m H u, B phc K ln, o

giao lnh c trng ca quan v nht phm triu
Nguyn (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip).
328
QUY CH M H U, O MNG LAN
chng ti hin cha th lm r c thn phn ca nhng ngi i m
DNH CHO CC CHC QUAN CAI QUN,
Xun Thu trong mt s bc nh ny. Song d sao, m Xun Thu cng
THNG QUN QUN DOANH V NM 1845
l mt loi m ht sc c bit bi tnh ph dng ca n trong cung
(theo Hi in)
nh nh Nguyn, khi va l m L phc ca vua, ng thi cng l m

Thng phc ca mt s hong thn v cc chc quan nh.
M H u
o Mng Lan
ai
Bc sn vng, mt
trc v sau 3 hoa
vng, 2 giao long, 1 h
k, 2 c , 2 thy vn,
bin bao, nhiu tuyn
Mu t n, may
bng on ng sc
gia kim, o song
khai, thng kp
Cai qun
1 hoa vng pha trc,

cn li nh thng qun
Mu tng sm
Chng ph
thng
Thm 2 hnh ngn la

vng
Mu t n
M sc vng
Mu mc xch
ai ca cc
quan
v
ming chnh
gia
pha
trc
sc
vng, tr hoa;
cc
ming
ng phi tri
dng mai i
mi bc vng
xen k bc
bc,
khng
cn m
V y
Lc bt 2 giao long
vng mt trc m
Mu tng sm
Ph v y
Lc bt 2 giao long
vng v 1 hoa vng
Mu bo lam v
mu thin thanh
Thng qun
Thng ch,
chng v
d. M Xun Thu
M Xun Thu va l m L phc
ca Hong , va l m Thng phc
ca cc quan v t, ng, lc phm triu
Nguyn. Theo Hi in, m Xun Thu
kt hp vi B phc cn l Thng
phc ca cc v hong t, hong thn,
tn tht c phong tc thn vng,
qun vng, thn cng, quc cng, k
ngoi hu, k ni hu, tr quc khanh,
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh v.v.
Tuy nhin, da trn mt s t
liu nh chp cung nh triu Nguyn
u th k XX, chng ti nhn thy i
M Xun Thu (BAVH); Ngi ng u

i Nhc cng i m Xun Thu.
tng s dng m Xun Thu cn c mt s ngch quan th v, thm

ch l i trng i nhc cng (?). Do thiu t liu vn t i chiu nn
QUY CH THNG PHC XUN THU

CA HONG THN V CC QUAN V T, NG,
LC PHM TRIU NGUYN
(theo Hi in)
M Xun Thu
o giao lnh
B t
Thng
Hong
t, hong
thn, tn
tht c
phong
tc thn
vng
- qun
vng
-thn
cng quc cng;
qun cng
- huyn
cng;
hng
cng huyn hu
- hng
hu
Sc ton vng
C o mu
trng; o mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho c
ty tin
K ln
Bch trch
S t
Nn vng
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
k ngoi
hu, k
ni hu,
nh hu,
tr quc
khanh
Sc vng bc an
xen, pha trc v
sau u c 1 hoa
vng, cc trang
sc hoa, giao long
u dng cht
liu bc
C o mu
trng; o mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho c
ty tin
Nn
329
330
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
t quc
khanh,
phng
quc
khanh, tr
quc y, t
quc y
Pha trc 2 hoa,

2 giao long, pha
sau 1 hoa, 2 giao
long u bng
bc
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
phng
quc y,
tr quc
lang, t
quc lang,
phng
quc lang
Pha trc 1 hoa,

2 giao long, pha
sau 1 hoa u
bng bc
Cng t
c t
phong
tc nh
hu, quan
v t
phm
Pha trc v sau

u 1 hoa vng,
trang sc hoa,
giao long cn li
u dng bc
C o nh mu
o, xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Cng t: lc
Quan:
Quan v
ng phm
Pha
bc,
bc;
hoa
trc 2 hoa
2 giao long
pha sau 1
bc 2 giao
long bc
C o nh mu
o, xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Bo
Nn
Quan v
lc phm
Pha trc 1 hoa

bc, 2 giao long
bc; pha sau 1
hoa bc
C o nh mu
o, xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Hng
Nn
C o mu
trng; o mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho c
ty tin
Bo
Nn
o giao lnh. Phm cp ca b quan ngoi vic c phn bit hnh

dng B t cn c phn bit mu sc ca c o. Trong , c o giao
lnh ca cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mu trng; c o ca cc chc
quan cn li c mu sc ging mu o gc. o mu xanh, lc, lam, en
c s dng ty nghi (1).
o mu
trng; o
mu xanh, lc,
lam, en cho
c ty tin
Hng
Nn
L b ng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
3.2. Quy ch B phc

Qua so snh quy ch B t ca nh Minh, nh L Trung Hng v
nh Nguyn, c th thy quy ch ca nh Nguyn v c bn k tha quy
ch ca nh L Trung Hng, ng thi tham kho thm mt phn quy
ch ca nh Minh. Tuy nhin dng o on lnh c trn trong quy ch
B phc ca nh Minh v nh L c nh Nguyn thay th bi dng
Mt s hin vt B t ca Vit Nam: 1. Bch nhn (Bo tng Dn tc hc

Vit Nam); 2. Vn nhn (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh an
Huyn); 3. Kh xch (nh: Trnh Bch); 4.Tin hc (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam).

[][][].
331
NH THANH

CA NH MINH, NH L TRUNG HNG V NH NGUYN
(theo Minh thc lc, Ton th v Hi in)
Minh
L Trung Hng
Nguyn
Hong t, vng cng:

K ln, Bch trch
Hong t, hong
thn: K ln
Hong thi t:
Rng 5 mng
Hong t: Rng 4
mng
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Quan
v
Quan
vn
Quan v
Nht
phm
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
K ln
Nh
phm
Cm k
S t
Tin hc
S t
Tin hc
Bch
trch
Tam
phm
Khng
tc
H bo
Cm k
Bch
trch
Cm k
S t
T phm
Vn nhn
H bo
Khng
tc
Khng
tc
Ng
phm
Bch
nhn
Hng bi
Vn nhn
Bo
Vn
nhn
Bo
Lc phm
L t
Bu
Bch
nhn
Tng
Bch
nhn
Hng
(gu)
Tht
phm
Kh xch
Bu
Bch
nhn
Tng
L t
Bu
Bt phm
Hong ly
T ngu
Bch
nhn
Tng
Kh xch
Hi m
Cu
phm
Am thun
Hi m
Bch
nhn
Tng
Liu
thun
T ngu
Php
quan
Cha
nhp lu
LU CU
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Quan v
Quan vn
Nht phm
Tin hc
K ln
Khng tc
H bo
Cm k
Nh phm
Cm k
S t
Vn nhn
H bo
Cm k
Tam phm
Khng tc
Bo
Bch nhn
Hng bo
Khng tc
T phm
Vn nhn
Vn nhn
Ng phm
Bch nhn
Hng
Lc phm
L t
Bu
Tht phm
Kh xch
T ngu
Bt phm
Am thun
T ngu
Cu phm
Luyn tc
Hi m
Sau nm
1609, quan
ch ca Lu
Cu khng
t cc
chc quan
v, qun
i cng b
gii th
Php quan: Gii tri
Quan phc ca tin s

(theo Hi in)
Tin s
Nm
1822
nht
gip, nht
danh
M
Y phc
Y phc
1838
Khng dng B T

CA NH THANH, NH TRIU TIN V LU CU
(theo Thanh s co, Triu Tin oan Tng thc lc, Cu dng k s)
o m nh
quan lc
phm
Gii tri
Luyn tc
NH TRIU TIN
1840
nht gip,
nh danh,
tam danh
nh
gip
tam gip
Vn T Ti
1 o giao lnh may bng sa Nam, 1 thng
may bng sa Nam, 1 vng cn, 1 hia
Sa (mt trc, sau u nh 1 hoa bc)
o m nh
quan lc
phm
Sa (1 hoa
vng pha
trc, 1 hoa
bc pha sau;
bc sn bc,
2 cnh vin
bc)
o bo lm bng sa, on trn (khng vn

sc) mu lam, lc; B t thu hnh my;
thng lm bng sa Nam, ming B t thu 2
bn cng thu hnh my; ai bc ng; vng
cn, hia.
Sa
(1 hoa bc
m vng pha
trc, 1 hoa
bc pha sau,
2 cnh vin
bc)
Sa
(pha
trc v
sau u 1
hoa bc, 2
cnh vin
bc)
Sa
(pha trc v
sau u 1 hoa
bc, 2 cnh
khng vin
bc)
III. TRANG PHC HU PHI

Y phc
1847
-o bo mu lc may bng on Bt ti i Hoa, ai bc on

Xch v, 1 ming pha trc bc bc m vng, 2 ming bc
bc, u mt i mi, 7 ming cn li bc ng, mt sng
en; thng may bng sa, on tn hoa mu lam; B t nn
thu Bch nhn; vng cn, hia, ht g
-Ring tam gip: B t nn thu L t; ai sc sng en,
3 ming bc bc, 7 ming bc ng; cn li nh trn
B t
Vn nhn
Bch nhn
335
L t
Quan phc ca c nhn (1807)

v v c nhn (1846)
Y phc
C nhn vn
C nhn v
Vn T Ti (mt trc,
sau u nh 1 hoa bc)
Vin nh (nh trn,

mu en, lm bng
lnh Nam trn, trc
sc hoa bc, trn nh
m 1 h l bc)
o giao lnh may bng

vi mu; Vng cn, hia.
(nm 1825 i cht liu
may o thnh sa Nam lt
la trng, thm 1 thng,
cn li nh nm 1807)
o M lm bng
tru Nam i Hoa
mu bo lam lt vi
; B t trn mu
xch tr; mt trc v
sau o thu ch V C
Quan phc ca hc tr Quc T Gim (1823) v tn sinh (1827)
Y phc
Hc tr Quc T
Gim
Tn sinh
Vn T Ti (lm bng
la sa, mt trc nh 1
hoa bc)
T
Phng
Bnh nh
o giao lnh may bng

sa Nam lt la trng;
thng la, qun mu
xanh; Vng cn, hia
o giao lnh
may
bng
sa Hoa tht
mu bo lam
lt la trng;
thng may
bng
tru;
Vng cn, hia
Hoa vn loan thu trn o ca hu phi triu Nguyn (Bo tng M

thut Cung nh Hu. nh: TQ).
Trc thi Nguyn, chim phng khng ch l hnh tng ngm v

vi hu phi, mnh ph m cn c p dng lm trang sc trn vt dng
ca vua cha, vng hu, nhm nh r trt t tn ti, nh nm 1254 thi
vua Trn Thi Tng, quy ch xe kiu c quy nh: T tng tht n
cc quan ng phm u c ngi kiu, nga, vng. Tng tht th dng
kiu u chim phng, sn son. Tng quc dng kiu u chim anh
v, lng ta sn en. Tam phm tr ln dng kiu u my, lng xanh.
T phm n lc phm kiu u bng(1) Quy ch L phc ca b quan
triu Trn quy nh ch c tc hu, minh t mi c mc o thu hnh
Phng c. Vo cui thi L s, Ton th cho bit Mc ng Dung s
dng lng phng dt vng. Vo thi Nguyn, hnh tng chim Phng
cn c thu ln Triu phc ca cc quan trn T phm.
Ring vi quy ch L phc hu cung, triu Nguyn quy nh: hong
thi hu v hong hu i m Cu Phng, trng cng cha i m
Tht Phng, cng cha i m Ng Phng. Cung tn thuc nht, nh,
tam giai, ty theo cp bc c dng cc trang sc Kim c pht
tc bng vng) bt
(b
phng, tht phng, ng phng, tam phng v nht
phng. Vic hong thi hu, hong hu i m Cu Phng tng t

vic hong i m Cu Long. Bi Cu, s 9, c coi l s dng ln
nht, tng trng cho ngi v ch tn, vnh cu.
1. Triu phc
tit trang sc no. Ring vi
1.1. Cu Phng
336
miu t ca Hi in v ngch
Phng bo l Triu phc dnh
cn, c th thy y l khn c
ring cho hong thi hu v
nh bi tc ca hong hu,
hong hu triu Nguyn. Trong
tng t vng cn ca vua quan
, m Cu Phng ca hong
triu Nguyn.
Cu
Phng
hu c thn m lm bng lng
Kt hp vi m Cu
m v, trm bi tc, sc 9 hnh
Phng l Phng bo. Phng
phng ma rng bay, khm 9
bo ca hong hu c lm
chic lp bn, 1 ming vn hoa
bng on Bt ti bng mu
b tc, 1 ming bc sn, 12 cnh
Bc sn vng trn m ca mnh ph. (nh: V

Kim Lc).
Hong hu Nam Phng v Hong Thi hu

oan Huy.
vng chnh sc thu phng hoa trn, sng nc, lt tru phng hoa
2 cnh ht pha trc, 1 vng lin ng bc tc,
Thng lm bng on Bt ti mu tuyt bch, thu Phng hoa
4 a hoa mai, 2 on hoa lin ng trang sc
trn xen vng, lt di la Cao b mu tuyt bch. ai vng, thn ai
chn tc, 1 ming kha (kiu) pha sau, ph hnh
dng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc, u sc vng,
phng vng nm mt on ch, 4 thn trm
18 ming vung dt u lt mt gng, khm hoa vng tr rng, 2 chic
bch kim u xu chui thy anh, 198 ht trn
mc vng. Hi lm bng t lng v mu , vin thu phng. Bt tt lm
chu c nh, khm 235 ht pha l cc loi. Ngch
bng lnh Nam bng mu tuyt bch.
hoa bm, 4 a hoa sc trm,
M Thi hu v Hong hu
dng trang sc chn phng
ngm sch, vng ngc an
xen, Hi ca Thi Hu,
Hong hu l hi thu Phng
337
mu hoa xch. C o lm bng lnh bng Lai l mu tuyt bch.
cn lm bng on Bt ti mu thin thanh lt
Phng bo ca hong thi
lnh i to mu vng chnh sc sc 4 khuyn
hu c lm bng sa mt mu
vng, 1 di thao t. M Cu Phng dnh cho
vng chnh sc, thu ch Th
hong thi hu tng t m ca hong hu, song
ng sc gia kim, hoa, sng nc
vic xu ngc chu, khm gng c ty (1).
xen k kt san h, gng, lt tru
i chiu t liu hnh nh xut hin hnh
mu hoa xch v sa mt thu Hoa.
tng m Phng th hin trong cc bc nh
Thng lm bng on Bt ti
hong hu, cng cha triu Nguyn, c th thy
bng mu hoa xch thu phng
nh m trm bi tc m Cu Phng trong K
, hoa, sng nc, xen k kt gng
thut ca ngi An Nam c phn khoa trng,
Ty. Vin on gm nn vng lin
song kiu dng tng i thng nht. Tuy nhin

chng ti cha th xc nh c cc khi nim
lp bn, vn hoa b tc v.v. c th ch nhng chi
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.11 13. Nguyn vn: :
[]:
Trm Phng bng vng thi cha Nguyn

(nh: V Kim Lc).
ng, lt sa Hong qu, ni lin

vi o la trng. Bt tt lm bng
lnh bng mu tuyt bch, lt tru
bng mu hoa xch, vin c bt tt c hai dy thao lm bng tru bng

mu hoa xch. Hi lm bng t lng v mu vng chnh sc thu phng
xen k kt san h, trn chu, gng ca Ty dng. (1)
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.11-13. Nguyn vn: :
L phc ca Ph M, Cng cha v Hu phi triu Nguyn

(Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht).
Tin cung Hong Thi hu, thn mu ca vua Khi nh

(nh: Trnh Bch).
341
340
Phng trn o bo ca qu phi triu Nguyn (Nguyn

mu. Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA CNG CHA TRIU NGUYN

NM 1808, 1824, 1833 V 1845
(theo Hi in)
Nm
1808
Phng bo phc ch (Bu vt triu Nguyn); Hi thu rng phng triu

Nguyn (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).
Ni
dung
M
Y phc
Y phc
o bo may bng on Bt ti bng

mu hoa xch thu hnh phng ;
thng may bng on Bt ti mu
tuyt bch thu hnh phng ng
sc xen kim tuyn; ai: thn ai lm
bng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng
mu hoa xch, sc 18 ming cc hnh
vung dt bng vng, b mt tr c
, vn phng lt mt knh; 1 i
Kim c pht; 1 i tt may bng
lnh Bt ti mu tuyt bch; 1 i hi
lm bng t Xch v thu phng
m Tht Phng, mc Phng bo mu sm. T nm 1845 tr v

cng cha cn li ch c i m Ng Phng, mc Phng bo mu
1824
hoa xch. Cc loi Phng bo dnh cho cng cha u c may bng
on Bt ti, thu hoa vn phng , kt hp vi thng mu tuyt bch,
i hi thu phng .
(1)
[]:
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.33-34. Nguyn vn:[]

[]
o bo n mu thu hnh loan phng; 1 chic ai; 1

chic vy i triu mu trng dt hnh phng ; 1 i hia,
1 i tt
M Tht Phng, thn m lm
bng lng m v trm bi tc, sc
vng 85 tui, 2 chic kha kiu vng,
1 chic sc chn tc, 7 hnh phng
bay, 4 ming c , 2 a hoa mai, 4
a hoa cc, 7 a hoa mn, 4 trm
hoa, 1 vng sc quanh nh u, 1
vng sc quanh vin m, u nh
vi mt ming tuyn kha tr hnh
phng, 2 ming kha bn, 1 b
trm bch kim xu 120 ht gi chu
khm 230 ht pha l
Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1808, cc cng cha u c i
Cng cha
M Tht Phng, kha kiu vng nng 4 lng vng
1.2. Tht Phng, Ng Phng
sau, ch c trng cng cha tip tc s dng m Tht Phng, cc v
Trng cng cha
1833
M
Y phc
342
1845
Y phc
M Tht Phng
o bo n may bng
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
phng ng sc gia
kim; 1 thng n may
bng on Bt ti mu
tuyt bch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen
kim tuyn; 1 ai vng,
1 i hia, tt
M Ng Phng, 1
chic mt ngch sc
vng, bch kim, trn
chu, san h
hong hu, cng cha hay cung tn u vn khn vnh, mc o Nht

Bnh, chng t quy ch trang phc ca hu phi triu Nguyn n thi
vua ng Khnh, Khi nh vn c sa i.
Khn vnh, cn gi khn vnh dy, l mt kh vi di hn chc
mt, kh rng 30cm, c vn gp np thnh hnh ch Nhn gia
trn, sau qun nhiu vng quanh u, c khi ln ti 20, 30 vng. Loi
khn ny vo cui thi Nguyn c kt hp vi o Nht Bnh, p dng
lm Thng phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu v Triu phc ca
mnh ph, cung tn, phn ln c mu xanh lam. Sau ny, khn vnh
dn c ph bin trong dn gian, c ph n Vit Nam s dng trong
cc dp l nghi trang trng.
o bo n may bng
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen
kim tuyn; ai sc
vng v bch kim
2. Thng phc
Theo Hi in, o Nht Bnh l Triu

phc dnh cho cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai
v l Thng phc ca hong hu, cng cha.
o Nht Bnh c nguyn mu l dng o Phi
Hong Thi hu oan Huy, Trng cng cha con vua ng Khnh, Hong hu Nam Phng.
Phong thi Minh, l loi o x c, c dng i

khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh ch nht
trc ngc, di c c di vi buc hai vt
o. Thng phc Nht Bnh c t nh vo
nm 1807 thi vua Gia Long v c duy tr cho
n cui thi Nguyn. Song quy ch m mo
kt hp vi loi trang phc ny khng n nh.
Nh quy ch nm 1807 quy nh t hong hu
n cung tn t giai nht lot s dng Kim c
Cng cha triu Nguyn.
pht phi vi o Nht Bnh, n nm 1846 thi vua Thiu Tr, Kim c
pht c thay th bng mt loi th sc c tn Kim phng. Cung tn
tam giai, t giai v ng giai cn c phn bit bi s lng trm ci.
Kiu dng c th ca Kim c pht v Kim phng, chng ti cha
th kho c. Song t liu tranh nh u th k XX cho thy bt k
Phc dng li trang im ca hu phi triu Nguyn trong dp i l; Trng cng cha con vua Dc c.
(nh: Trnh Bch).
343
IV. TRANG PHC QUN I

T
344
Nguyn,
thi
cha
trang
phc
345
qun i v dn gian
ng Trong tri qua
mt cuc bin cch
ln. n thi Nguyn,
chng ta khng cn
thy s xut hin ca
b qun trang Gip tr,
thay vo , quan vin
ban v phn ng i
o Nht Bnh thu Phng , Loan (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).
Binh lnh thi Minh Mng

(Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php).
m H u, mc Mng Lan. Binh lnh cng khng cn ci trn ng

kh nh thi L Trung Hng.
Nm 1835, Thi nh Lan
QUY CH L PHC CA HU PHI NM 1807
m t: Lnh cp dch tnh gi
(theo Hi in)
l tnh binh, i nn na, nn
Ni
dung
Hong hu
Cng cha
Cung tn
nh giai
Cung tn
tam giai
Cung tn
t giai
2 chic Cu
long Kim c
pht, 1 chic
Cu phng
Kim c
pht, 8 trm
phng
1 chic Tht
phng
Kim c
pht, 12
trm hoa
1 chic Ng
phng
Kim c
pht, 10
trm hoa
1 chic
Tam
phng
Kim c
pht, 8
trm hoa
1 chic
Nht
phng
Kim c
pht, 8
trm hoa
1 o bo lm
bng sa si
vng thu
20 hnh rng
phng, loan,
tr, 1 thng
lm bng t
Bt ti mu
trng thu
rng phng
1 o Nht
Bnh may
bng sa
si ,
thu hnh
phng
1 o Nht
Bnh lm
bng sa
mu tm
chnh
sc thu
phng ,
1 thng
lm bng
t Bt ti
trng thu
loan
1 o Nht
Bnh lm
bng sa
mu tm
nht, 1
thng
lm bng
t Bt ti
trng thu
loan
Y
phc
1 o Nht
Bnh lm
bng sa
mu xch
o thu
loan , 1
thng lm
bng t Bt
ti trng thu
loan
(Thiu Tr 6-1846) Cung tn nht nh

giai: m Kim phng u c 3 bc sn,
ring nht giai 8 phng, nh giai 7
phng; tam giai trn bi tc ci trm
phng; t giai, ng giai trn bi tc
khng ci trm t s phn bit
nh ch che u, qut sn
mu vng, chm cm lng g,
o dng loi dt len mu ,
vin mu lc, ng tay mu lc.
Lnh ph, huyn gi l ph
binh, huyn binh, i nn qut
sn mu lc, mu en, cm
lng g, o dng vi en, vin
, ng tay mu .(1) Nhng
dng m t ca Thi nh Lan
hon ton khp vi nhng bc
v binh lnh Vit Nam do mt
1. Nn K Mao, lnh kinh k i; 2. Nn K binh;
3. Nn lnh Tp; 4. i Binh; 5. o lnh An Nam; 6.
Lnh Tp kh xanh. (K thut ca ngi An Nam).
s ngi phng Ty khc ha.

Ngoi ra, qua tranh nh u th
k XX vi nhng hnh v m t
1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp tr - Vit Nam k lc. Nguyn vn:
kh chi tit trang phc

346
TRANG PHC QUN I TRIU NGUYN
ca mt s hng qun
(theo Qun lc Vit Nam di cc triu i phong kin, bn sao ca EFEO)
binh nh lnh cm v,
lnh k binh hong gia,
lnh th v, lnh thy
qun, lnh pho th,
lnh bn sng thn
cng, lnh hu trong
cung, lnh hu n v.v.
do Vin Vin ng Bc
o th v (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu), o lnh, o ca

i nghi v (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China,
Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
C (EFEO) thc hin, c th thy binh lnh triu Nguyn tuyt i a s

u i nn, i t. S phn bit gia cc hng binh lnh ch yu nm
kiu dng nn mo. Ring o mc phn nhiu l loi o song khai(1), ci
khuy, x vt trc v sau, vai o c vin my bao quanh, gi l vn kin.
Ngoi ra, t sau khi chim ng Nam k, Bc k, ngi Php thnh
lp n v qun bn x ph tr cho qun chnh quy ca Php, gi l
lnh Tp. Lnh Tp cn c gi l lnh kh , lnh kh xanh, bi b
qun trang c trng ca hng lnh ny l nn dp, qun o chn, c
bit l di tht lng buc bng c mt u bung xung che phn h
b, trng tng t nh chic kh.
Chu bn triu Nguyn
(Thnh Thi quyn s 43, t s 8 9)
Nin i: Ngy 16 thng 3 nhun nm Thnh Thi th 10
(1898)
Ni dung: Th v x tu xin may qun o cho binh lnh h
gi. Vua Thnh Thi ch thn thit k kiu o nn mi v
chun cho may mc.
Chu ph: 1. Loi nn qun trang ny trng cha c
nh, o qun trang th khng tin ci nga. Nay chun cho
lm theo kiu mi; 2. Sng nn dng st nm bc. Nn
dng mu en; 3. o qun trang di mt thc hai tc
nm phn, mu lc, vin . Bn trong mc o vi trng. ai
lng dng mu lc; 4. Nn ca v li cng chiu theo kiu
ny. Ty theo chc tc m nh (tn chc) vo trc nn.
Hnh trn trc ngc o qun trang (ca v li) chiu theo
hnh B t m thu vo.
1. i Nam quc m t v nh ngha: o song khai l o x vt trc, vt sau.
mc qun trng. Nhng con nh t t

348
gia gio khng bao gi ly Ty, d Ty
1. Y phc
Triu Nguyn l triu i qun ch cui
c giu, sang trng n my. Cho nn
cng ca Vit Nam, triu i lu li nhiu
bn qun trng l t t co lm ngh
n tng mc nh v nhng nh hng lu
ly Ty. Tri li, t gia th k XIX, n
di trong quan nim ca ngi Vit hin i
b x Hu kh gi i cht u mc
v phong tc tp qun ca ng cha, trong
qun trng, h l v con nhng cng
c quan nim v trang phc. Tuy nhin,
chc cc s thuc ta khm s, cc c
vn hin o m ca mi mt triu i u
quan thuc su b ca triu nh []
c s k tha, bin d so vi quy ch o m
Np sng rnh ri cnh v, cho nn y
ca triu i lin k. Khong cch gia cc
phc sang trng qu phi. Cn dn lao
triu i cng xa, s bin d theo cng ln.
ng n mc lem luc th khng mc
Ngay trang phc trong dn gian, mc d c
qun trng. Tuy nhin sau qun
tnh bo th v t bin cch nh trang phc

cung nh, song so vi thi L, Trn, trang
C ng i khn xp, o the.

(Hnh nh H Ni).
ban u cn rt r, sau khp ni u

a chung.(1) Nh vy s kt hp gia
nhiu thay i. c bit phi k n vic ph bin o di c ng ci
o di nm thn v qun mu trng
khuy, ph b o giao lnh trong dn gian mang tnh cng p di thi
hn ch xut hin t u th k XX tr
vua Minh Mng.
v sau, trc ngi Vit hu ht u

mc qun mu thm hoc mu .
Nam thi Nguyn hin nhin l b qun chn o cht. Song theo ghi
C iu, sau nhng phong tro ci
nhn ca Thi nh Lan th vo nm 1835 thi vua Minh Mng, nam
lng nu cao tinh thn on tuyt lc
gii ngi Vit Trung, Nam k thng mc o cht mu en ci khuy
hu, hng ti vn minh t cui th k
hp tay kt hp vi qun nhiu . ng cho bit (h) u dng la
XIX, song song vi vic ct b bi t,
en vn u, mc o en ng tay hp, qun may bng lnh , i chn
rng trng, khng t nam n ngi
t. Quan vin Vit Nam ra ngoi cng u i t, o khng phn ma
Vit, c bit l gii tr thc Ty hc
nng ma lnh, ma ng vn mc o la mng. Ngi sang hay dng
dn i sang mc trang phc chu u.
hai mu lam, en, vn khn quanh u cng nh vy, qun u mu
Trang phc ca n gii lc ny cng
.(1) Ring loi qun chn o cht ca n gii, theo Phan K Bnh,
tri qua nhng t bin cch v kiu
trong khong nhng nm 1910-1915, qun th phn nhiu mc qun
dng nhm lc bt s lng thng ca
si, qun lnh thm, i khi cng c ngi mc qun nhiu .
Nht
loi o truyn thng trc y. Nhng
Thanh ghi li khong t 1910 tr i c nhng me Ty bo dn bt u
ci cch kiu dng o di n tiu biu
(2)
phi k n o di Le Mur ca ha s
Ct Tng nm 1930 v o di L Ph
1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp trc. Nguyn vn:
2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr. 324.
Thy kha mc u phc (Hnh nh H

Ni); Thiu n mc o di sau khi
cch tn.
trng dn d c dng vi n gii,
phc dn gian thi L, Nguyn cng c
Loi trang phc ph bin nht trong cung nh v dn gian Vit
349
1. t l qu thi. Tr. 212.
1. V chng nng dn o ti, vy p;

2. ng chu n xin; 3.ng gi mc o
cc (loi o c vt trc khp chm
ln gi na vt bn phi, nm khuy
ci khuyt tt vi vi hai di bi cho
buc pha di, khong nm 1970 cn
t ngi Thun Qung a mc. t l
qu thi. Tr. 218); 4. Ngi n b quy
gnh, cht khn vung i nn ba tm.
ca ha s L Ph nm 1934. ng Ct
Tng pht biu trn t Phong ha
350
351
v chic o di n kiu c cho bit: Y

phc ca cc bn gi, ti xem thy c
nhiu iu bt tin m li khng c v
chi l m thut. Tuy rng vi nm gn
y cng c mt vi phn sa i [...]
chng qua ch my ci mu sc sc
s, my th hng l nc ngoi [...]
cn th vn kiu o le xe y, vn ci
qun lng thng en ngm y. Hoc
Ph n Gia nh bi tc; Tr con vn khn; Soi gng i khn; Bi tc.

gi cng c ngi a mc qun trng
dng cc loi tht lng ln nh, tht li trc bng, thot khi nhng
song tic rng s vn rt t [...] Cn
cm lnh kht khe di triu vua Minh Mng.
sa i dn: trc ht phi hp vi kh
Ngoi ra, c mt s kin cho rng vo u th k XIX, trong gii
hu x ta, vi thi tit cc ma, vi
phong lu nho nh s dng loi o b ba, loi o c ngun gc t
cng vic, vi khun kh, mc thc
o Penang Malaysia, ni c tc ngi B Ba sinh sng(1). Da vo mt
ca thn hnh mi bn. Sau na phi
s bc ha trong An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t sinh
gn gng, gin d, mnh m v c v
do ngi Nht Bn v vo nm 1794 ti vng ng Trong, c th thy
m thut v lch s. Chng ti ng
ngay t cui th k XVIII, loi o vt ngn khng bu, x gia, ci bng
tnh vi quan im ca b Nguyn
cc xut hin ti vng ng Trong Vit Nam. Nhiu kh nng y
Th Chn Qunh khi cho rng ng
chnh l tin thn ca loi o b ba. Tuy
Ct Tng ch l mt mt xch trong
nhin, ngun gc ca loi o ny c phi
chui di nhng ngi khng li
xut pht t o Pengnang Malaysia hay
tn tui nhng cng gp phn ci sa, gip cho ci o di mang hnh
khng, hin cha c t liu no c th
dng hin nay, cng nhn nh ng Ct Tng ch o Vit Nam le xe,
khng nh c.
Ngi ng Trong nm 1794 c v trong

An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t
sinh . (T Lan cung cp).
lng thng, khng m thut, nhng ti li thy o t thn, o giao lnh

cng nh o di u p c, mi ci mt v. Nhn tm ty thch, kh m
tranh ci.(1)
2. Kiu tc
Sau mt lot sc lnh cm s dng
cc loi m Tin phc triu L ban b
i vi tng lp dn ngho, s gia Trn Trng Kim cho bit: Cch
vo thi vua Minh Mng trong khong t
n mc th ch c vi nu, ngi ngho kh ch c manh o cnh v
nm 1828 n nm 1842, nam gii ngi
thng th ng ci kh, c i u mi mc ci qun vi di n u gi.
Vit trong ton quc hu ht u bi tc
Ngi sung tc mi c vi ci o nu en v vi ci qun hoc nhum
vn khn theo phong tc ng Trong.
nu, hoc trng . Ph n Bc k vn mc o t thn, vy p, vn s
Ban u, cc loi khn lt, khn nhiu,
(2)
khn thm ca n ng c qun ri,

1. o di xa nay. (http://chimviet.free.fr/quehuong/chquynh/chqyn_aodaixuanay.htm).
2. Vit Nam s lc. Tr.537.
C gi i khn xp khong nm 1945.

(Hnh nh H Ni).
1. Din o b ba n khch Ty. Dn theo Tp ch Hn Vit. Tr.31.
352
M Ni. (Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php; K thut ca

ngi An Nam).
v sau c qun xp np
bng nan giang, qut
u n, cht theo kiu ch
sn du trn mt cho
Nht , hoc ch Nhn
khi thm nc ma
gia trn. Khong nm
gi l nn sn. Nn lp
1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi
bng l da rt mng,
ch ra loi khn xp, khu
nh, quai la bch, i
dn lin nhng vnh np
trng ra v ho hoa
li, ch vic t chp ln
phong nh. Quan liu
u cho nhanh chng v
a i nn lng, lng
thun tin.
cnh chim lp hai t,
(1)
353
Xe si. (nh: Albert Kahn).
Trong khi , ph n ng Ngoi vn vn khn thm, lt, nhiu,
trn nh c chp bng bc chm tr, hay bng i mi vnh vng vnh
i thm khn vung m qu bng vi nu hoc xuyn, bt chp lnh
bc.(1) Loi nn b ca n b m Phan K Bnh nhc ti ch cc loi nn
cm n b khng c dng vi, la ngn qun u, khng c
ba tm, nn Ngh, nn quai thao v.v. c s dng thng xuyn vo
i khn vung. Khc vi ph n ng Ngoi, ti Trung k, Nam k,
u th k XX.
n b bi tc bt khn vung, khng vn khn nh ngi Bc , n

(2)
b ng Trong a u trn vi bi tc, hoc bt u bng mt khn

vung gp cho i, buc nt xung di cm(3).
Ngoi ra, ngi cao tui thi L
Nguyn cn i mt loi m, gi l m Ni,
vn l i ca gii tng l. Vit Nam
t in nm 1954 nh ngha: M Ni, m
ca ng gi i, pha sau c dim che kn
c tai v gy. Loi m ny ngay t thi L
Trung Hng c Alexandre de Rhodes
ghi nhn: M Ni, m ca cc v s [] M
che tai di ti vai. Nhng ngi khc cng
dng m ny trong tri lnh.(4)
V nn i, Phan K Bnh cho bit
n ng thng i nn da, nn sn, nn
lng; n b thng i nn b, nn lng
cho(5). Nht Thanh gii thch: Nn an
4. T in Vit - B - La. Tr. 171.
Ph n thi Nguyn vn tc ui
g bng la trng, i nn Ngh,
mc ym trng, o nm thn c
ng ci khuy.
Mt gia nh thng lu Hu. (BAVH).
LI KT
Trc khi c s phn nh nghim ngt v a chnh tr, cc cng

ng dn c chung sng trn cng khu vc a l thng c s giao lu,
chia s, nh hng ln nhau v ngn ng, phong tc v.v., mt cch t
nhin. Vi tnh cht hn dung, vic xc nh phn li thun chng ca
bt k nn vn ha no cng cn nhiu thi gian v nhng chng l khoa
hc lin ngnh.
Vn minh Trung Quc khng t nhin c sn; dung np trong
chc chn c khng t thnh t vn ha mang ngun gc ng Di, Bch
Vit. Song k t khi b my chnh quyn phong kin Trung Quc hnh
thnh, i km vi chnh sch ng ha dng H bin di, vn minh
Trung Quc tng bc thm nhp v gy nh hng su rng ti cc
vng t, quc gia xung quanh n, trong c Vit Nam, Triu Tin v
Nht Bn. Trong khi Nht Bn vi v tr a l quc o, nhiu ln phi
cc on khin ng s ch ng hc tp, du nhp vn minh ng,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li c quc th gn lin vi i lc Trung Quc,
u tng hng chu nhng chnh sch ng ha vn ha. Sau khi ginh
c c lp, vi quan nim vn minh Trung Quc l thc o tin b,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li nhiu ln ch ng m phng in chng
vn hin ca triu nh Trung Quc. Chnh v vy, trong nhiu trng
hp, nhng nt vn ha tng nh ch c Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht
Bn li thng tm thy s tng ng hoc tng cn ca n ti Trung
Quc.
Khong 100 nm tr li y, sau khi ch ngha quc gia, t tng
dn tc c dp ln mnh, Nht Bn tha nhn v t ho cho rng,
h hc tp vn minh Trung Hoa, ng thi y ln mt tm cao mi,
cn Hn Quc v Vit Nam li din ra cc cuc tranh ci v vn bn
quyn ca cc thnh t vn ha vn c coi l c ngun gc Trung
Hoa. C th im qua vic ng Kim nh, H Vn Thy chng minh
Nho gio mang ngun gc Vit, chn ni Thi Sn tng l a bn c

tr ca dn tc Vit, Kinh Dch l pht minh ca ngi Lc Vit v.v.,
tng t trng hp ng Ban Mun Ki, Kang Sang Won chng minh ch
Hn l pht minh ca ngi Hn Quc, sau dy ln mt lot cc bi
vit tuyn b ngi Hn l ch th sng to ra ng y, Kinh Dch, la
bn, thm ch Khng T, Tn Trung Sn l ngi Hn Quc v.v. Nhng
nghin cu c s dng ny, u chu s chi phi ca tinh thn dn tc,
cn nng tnh t bin, suy din, thiu chng c khoa hc xc tn. Bn
cnh , ng gc trung tm soi chiu cc nc xung quanh,
khng t hc gi Trung Quc li c tm thi, ging iu ca nc ln, coi
vn ha Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht Bn ch n gin l s khc x ca
vn minh Trung Hoa, thiu ci nhn tn trng, khch quan i vi vn
ha, lch s ca cc quc gia ny. y l hai thi cc oan trong vic
nghin cu, i snh vn ha, cn c nhn nhn v ph bnh mt cch
nghim tc.
c xc nh gii hn nghin cu nm trong giai on 1009 - 1945,
giai on t nhiu cn s liu, hin vt n chng, Ngn nm o m th
hin mt gc nhn lch s, t tng, m thut Vit Nam thng qua dng
chy bin thin ca vn ha trang phc; ng thi lm r nhng im
tng ng v khc bit gia trang phc Vit Nam so vi trang phc ca
cc nc ng vn, c bit l Trung Quc. T kt qu nghin cu ny,
cch n mc, li sng ca ngi Vit trong khong 1000 nm tr li y
bc u sng t. y s l tin cho vic nghin cu phong tc, li
sng ca ngi Vit trong qu kh xa xa hn, nhm tng bc tm ra
ci li bn sc trong vn ha Vit Nam.
Mi thi u c gi tr quan, thm m quan ring. Mi li khen
ch, nh gi ch mang tnh nht thi. Cun sach bn c cm trn tay
c vit nn bng s tn trong s tht cua ngan nm ao mu ngi Vit,
khng c nh gi ng sai, hay d. Vi t cch l tc gi, ti hy vng
bn c c ci nhn cng tm, bnh tnh i vi vn ha trang phc Vit
Nam ni ring, vn ha cung nh Vit Nam ni chung, c bit i vi
nhng thnh t vn ha Trung Hoa dung cha trong vn ha Vit.
H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013.
Trn Quang c
Ph lc

(theo L triu thin chnh in l v
L triu chiu lnh thin chnh, k hiu A.257)
Chc tc
Chu vua
M
B t
ai, Thao
Hong t, vng t
c phong quc cng
Dng
ng
Ta
K ln
ai k
thch (
qu) bc
vng
Phc
u
Ta
Tam thi:
K ln;
Tam thiu:
Bch trch
ai bc
vng
t,
Hong t, vng t
phong chc tam thi,
tam thiu gia phong
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
vng
Hong t, vng t
phong t hu c
gia phong qun cng
ai t gic
bc bc
Hong t, vng t
phong c ng
tri, c kim s gia
phong qun cng
Phc
u
S t
ai t gic
bc bc
Hong t, vng t
phong hiu im,
c, tham c, lnh
gia phong qun cng
Nn
sn
bc,
nh
hng
mao
S t
Dy thao
kp, xu
ngc, cm
kim
Hong t, vng t
phong qun cng
Sa
Dy thao
kp, xu
ngc
Hong t, vng t
cha c phong
Lng
Cn
en
o
the
en
Hong
357
Nht phm
Phc
u
S t
ai sng
t bt bc
Quan
Tng nht phm
Phc
u
S t
ai sng
t bt bc
Chnh nh phm, tng

nh phm gia phong
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
ai i
mi
Chnh nh phm, tng

nh phm gia phong
tc hu
Nn
bc
nh
hng
mao
Nn
sn
son
nh
hng
mao
Nn
sn
son
nh
hng
mao
Nht phm
Phc
u
Ta
Tin hc
ai sng
t bc bc
Nh phm; quan
ng s hm chnh tam
phm
Phc
u
Tin hc
Ng s:
Gii tri
ai sng
t bc bc
Tam phm
Phc
u
Cm k
ai i
mi
T phm; quan th c
kim ng s hm
ng phm
Phc
u
Khng tc
Ng s:
Gii tri
ai i
mi
Ng phm; quan th
th, th ch hm lc
phm; quan hnh,
ng s hm tht phm
Phc
u
Khng tc
hnh,
Ng s: Gii
tri
ai i
mi
Lc phm v lc khoa
cp s trung hm
chnh tht phm
Phc
u
Xanh
Vn nhn
ai k lam
hng
Tht phm
Phc
u
Xanh
Bch hc
ai tc
hng
Tam phm, t phm

gia phong tc hu
Ng, lc, tht phm
358
Quan
vn
Tng
Bt phm v cc chc
ng tri ph hm tht
phm; tri huyn, tri
chu hm tng tht
phm, t ban, hun
o hm cu phm
Phc
u
Xanh
en
Tiu liu
ai sng
tru bc
thau
Cu phm
Phc
u
Xanh
en
Tiu liu
ai sng
tru bc
thau
Dy thao
n, eo
kim

Tng
Dy thao
n, eo
kim
(theo Loi ch)

Chu vua
Chc tc
Dy thao
n, eo
kim
Hong
t,
vng
B t
ai, Thao
Hong t, vng t
lm cc chc tam
thi, tam thiu m
c tc qun cng
Phc
u
Ta
Tam thi:
K ln;
Tam thiu:
Bch trch.
Thu bng
kim tuyn
-ai nh
k thch
bt vng
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc tam thi,

tam thiu c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
-Tam thi:
Bch trch;
Tam thiu:
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Hong t, vng t
lm cc chc t hu
c m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc t hu
c m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Hong t, vng
t lm cc chc
c ng tri, c
thim s m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc
-Hia, bt
tt
t,
quan
v
359
Cc chc c
ng tri, c
thim s m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
S t
-ai nh
i mi
bt bc
-Hia, bt
tt
Hong t, vng
t lm cc chc
hiu kim, c,
lnh, tham c,
v s m c tc
qun cng
Nn
chp
bc,
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh, lt
ton
thn,
mu
S t
-Dy thao
kp xu
ht ngc
-eo
gm
hiu kim,
c, lnh, tham
c, v s m c
tc qun cng
Nn
chp
bc,
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh, lt
ton
thn,
mu
H bo
-Dy thao
kp
- eo
gm
Hong t, vng t
c tc qun cng
Sa, c
ch en
t ni
o trc
lnh,
mu
H bo
Cc chc cai qun,

cai i c tc qun
cng
Sa
o trc
lnh,
mu
Tng
Cc chc hiu
im, c, tham
c, ph c,
lnh th v, t hu
hiu im m c
tc hu
Nn
chp
bc,
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh, lt
ton
thn,
mu
Tng
Thu bng
t
-Dy thao
n.
- eo
gm
Cc chc ch huy
s, ch huy ng
tri, ch huy thim
s, ch huy s, ch
huy ng tri, ch
huy thim s, tng
tri, ng tng tri,
thim tng tri m c
tc hu
Nn sn
son
o trc
lnh,
mu
Tng
-Dy thao
n. eo
gm
360
-Dy thao
kp xu
ht ngc
-eo
gm
Cc chc l, trn
in qun tng
qun, lc s hiu y,
thin h, qun lnh,
ph l, chnh
y, ph thin
h, trung y, lang
tng, ph qun
lnh, bch h,
ht, ph trung y,
ph lang tng, ph
qun lnh, t hu
tin hu lang tng,
y, chnh v y,
ph ht, t hu
tin hu ph lang
tng, ph v y, v
y, ph y, ph
trung y
Nn
sn son,
chp
nh
hng
mao
o trc
lnh,
mu
-Dy thao
n.
-Chc trn
in cm
kim v
di ng.
-Cn li
cm roi v
kim
Cai i, ph cai i,
chnh i trng,
ph i trng
d trng coi qun
lnh m cha c
chc tc
M
Thanh
Ct
o
Thanh
Ct
khng
lt
-Cm
gm
Cc chc lm vic
ngoi nh tng
binh s, tng binh
ng tri, tng binh
thim s
-Dy thao
kp
- eo
gm
Quan
vn
Khi c l Biu (trc khi dng l mng ln

vua cha, chn ngy lm l dng biu), l Bi
(nhng ngy l chnh n, l sinh nht ca
vua cha, cc nha mn c lm l bi vng)
Phc
u
C
tc:
o ;
cha
c
tc:
o
xanh,
lc
Tng
-ai nh
g k lam
hng bt
thau.
-Hia, tt
bng l
Tam thi, tam thiu
Phc
u
Ta
Tin hc
-ai nh
sng t bt
bc.
Hia, bt tt
Thng th, ng s
Gii Tri
-Thng
th: Tin
hc. Ng
s: Gii tri
- ai nh
sng t bt
bc.
Hia, bt tt
T hu th lang
Phc
u
Sa k
- ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
Hia, bt tt
361
Cc chc tha ch,

ph ng s, tha
chnh s, i hc
s, t tu, th c,
thim
362
Phc
u.
-Ng s:
Gii Tri
-C
tc:
.
-Cha
c
tc:
xanh,
lc.
Khng
tc.
-Ng s:
Gii tri
- ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc t khanh,
tham chnh, ph
don, hc s, t
nghip, th ging,
th th, hiu th,
khoa, th ch,
hnh
Phc
u. -
hnh:
Gii Tri
Nh
trn
Khng
tc. -
hnh: Gii
tri
-ai nh
g k lam
hng bt
thau.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc cp s,
hin s
-Cp s:
Phc
u.
-Hin
s: Gii
Tri
Nh
trn
-Cp s:
Vn nhn.
-Hin s:
Gii tri
ai nh
g k lam
hng.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc hn lm
hiu l, hiu tho,
gim st ng s cc
o
-Hn
lm:
Phc
u.
-Cai o:
Gii Tri
Nh
trn
Hn lm:
Bch nhn.
Cai o:
Gii Tri
ai nh
g k lam
hng.
Hia, bt tt
Cc chc thng
chnh s, thim s,
kinh lch
Cc chc thng
chnh s, tham
ngh, lang trung,
thiu thim s, hin
ph, thiu khanh,
thiu don, trung
th x nhn, t
thin lnh, ph
on s, vin ngoi
lang, thng chnh
tha, tri ph v
nhng chc t
khanh, thiu khanh
lm vic ngoi
-Thng th y phc cng nh Hn lm hiu

l. Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y
phc nh t khanh v khoa
-Phc
u.
-Ring
hin
ph:
Gii Tri
Dng
mu
xanh,
mu
lc
Anh v
(vt)
-ai nh
sng tru
bt thau.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc tu son,
gio th, hc chnh,
cp mn s, ng
tri ph, t v, chiu
gim, in th, tr
trung, thng phn,
lc s, in th, i
chiu, gim b, t
thin gim tha,
t mc hu mc,
cp mn ph s,
tri huyn, tri chu,
huyn tha, ng
quan chnh, chnh
t, ng tri chu,
quan, in b, t
ban, hun o
-Phc
u
Dng
mu
xanh
mu
en
Thun
am. (Liu
thun)
ai nh
sng tru
bt thau.
Hia, bt tt
Cc thi y vin i
s, vin s, ng y,
nghim bin, lng
y chnh, khn chn,
lng y ph, thi
quan th chnh,
ng vn nh nhc
th chnh, tha d
cc cc chnh, gio
phng ty chnh, t
thn lang
-Phc
u
-o
mu
xanh,
mu
en
Thun
am (Liu
thun)
ai nh
sng tru
bt thau.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc trng
s, bnh s, thng
s, chnh ph t
ngh, ph hiu y,
th c, ging d, v
y, tri b, s, tri
s, in s, ch b,
x mc, ngc tha,
cc hng thuc vin
tp lu
Sa n
dng
o
Thanh
Ct c
lt
Nhng ngi tn
tht thc th cc
chc lng chnh,
lng ph, lng tha
Phc
u
-C
tc:
mu
;
cha
tc
mu
xanh,
lc
363
Vn nhn
ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
-Hia, bt
tt
Ni
quan
Cc chc ni gim,
tng thi gim,
thi gim, chng
gim m c tc
qun cng
Phc
u
Mu
H bo
ai nh
i mi
bt bc.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc thi gim,

thim thi gim,
tham chng gim,
tham tri gim, ng
tri gim
Phc
u
C
tc:
mu
;
cha
tc:
mu
lc
Vn nhn
-ai nh
i mi
bt thau.
-Hia, bt
tt
Cc chc t hu
thi gim, t hu
gim tha, t hu
im
Phc
u
C
tc:
mu
;
cha
tc:
mu
xanh,
lc,
en
Bch nhn
Cc chc phng
ng, gim b
364
Sa
-ai nh
g k lam
hng bt
thau. -Hia,
bt tt
o
Thanh
Ct
c lt,
khng
ph
hu
Nh
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
bc lnh
l
Tin
hc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng
t sc
bc
bc
lnh
l
Bch
trch
Tam
phm
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai i
mi sc
bc
Cm
k
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
i
mi
sc
bc
S t
T
phm
Phc
u
sc
ng
thau
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc
on
thm
Khng
tc
Lc
Nn
bc
Tht
di
ai
mu
ta
Lc
Ng
phm
Phc
u
sc
ng
thau
ai i
mi sc
thau
bc
on
thm
Vn
nhn
Lc
Nn
bc
Tht
di
ai
mu
ta
Bo
Lc
Lc
phm
tr
xung
Phc
u
sc
ng
thau
ai tc
hng
vin
thau
bc
on
thm
Bch
nhn
Xanh
Nn
son
Tht
di
ai
mu
xanh
Tng
Xanh
Php quan i m Gii Tri, B t Gii tri

(theo Cng mc)
QUY CH TH PHC CHU CHA CA B QUAN

Phm
cp
Nht
phm
Quan vn
(theo Loi ch)
Quan v
ai
B t
Phc
sc
ai
B t
Phc
sc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng t
sc bc
bc lnh
l
Tin
hc
Phc
u
sc
bc
ai
sng
t sc
bc
bc
lnh
l
Bch
trch
Chu cha
Chc tc
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc tam thi, ch en t
tam thiu m c tc
ni
qun cng
ai, Thao
o Thanh Ct,
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
365
Cc chc tam thi,

Sa
Hong tam thiu c tc qun
cng
t,
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc t hu ch en t
ni
vng c m c tc qun
cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc c ch en t
ng tri, c thim
ni
s m c tc qun
cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Cc chc c ng
tri, c thim s m
c tc qun cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Hong t, vng t
Sa, c
lm cc chc hiu ch en t
kim, c, lnh,
ni
tham c, v s m
c tc qun cng
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
-Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc.
-Cm gm
Cc chc hiu kim,

c, lnh, tham
c, v s m c
tc qun cng
o Thanh Ct
-Dy thao kp.

-Cm gm
t,
quan
v
366
Cc chc t hu c
m c tc qun cng
Sa
Sa
Sa
Sa, c
Hong t, vng t c ch en t
tc qun cng
ni
o trc lnh,
mu , B t
h bo
-Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc.
-eo gm
Cc chc cai qun, cai

i c tc qun cng
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
-Dy thao kp.

-Cm gm
Cc chc hiu im,

c, tham c, ph
c, lnh th v, t
hu hiu im m c
tc hu.
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
-Dy thao n.
-Cm gm
Cc chc ch huy s,
ch huy ng tri,
ch huy thim s, ch
huy s, ch huy ng
tri, ch huy thim s,
tng tri, ng tng tri,
thim tng tri m c
tc hu
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt
-Dy thao n.
-Cm gm
Cc chc l, trn
M Thanh
in qun tng qun,
Ct
lc s hiu y, thin
h, qun lnh, ph
l, chnh y, ph
thin h, trung y,
lang tng, ph qun
lnh, bch h, ht,
ph trung y, ph lang
tng, ph qun lnh,
t hu tin hu lang
tng, y, chnh
v y, ph ht, t
hu tin hu ph lang
tng, ph v y, v
y, ph y, ph
trung y
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Cai i, ph cai i,
M Thanh
chnh i trng, ph
Ct
i trng d trng
coi qun lnh m cha
c chc tc
o Thanh Ct
khng lt
Cm gm
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Cc chc lm vic
ngoi nh tng
binh s, tng binh
ng tri, tng binh
thim s
Quan
Sa
367
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc v
sc bc
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc tha ch, ph

ng s, tha chnh
s, i hc s, t tu,
th c, thim
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc t khanh,
tham chnh, ph don,
hc s, t nghip, th
ging, th th, hiu
th, khoa, th ch,
hnh
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Cc chc cp s, hin
s
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Tam thi, tam thiu

vn
Thng th, ng s
T hu th lang
Cc chc hn lm hiu
l, hiu tho, gim st
ng s cc o
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
-Thng th y phc cng nh hn lm hiu l.

Cc chc thng chnh -Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y phc
s, thim s, kinh lch nh t khanh v khoa
368
Cc chc thng chnh

s, tham ngh, lang
trung, thiu thim s,
hin ph, thiu khanh,
thiu don, trung
th x nhn, t thin
lnh, ph on s,
vin ngoi lang, thng
chnh tha, tri ph v
nhng chc t khanh,
thiu khanh lm vic
ngoi
Sa
Cc chc tu son, gio

th, hc chnh, cp
mn s, ng tri ph,
t v, chiu gim, in
th, tr trung, thng
phn, lc s, in th,
i chiu, gim b,
t thin gim tha,
t mc hu mc, cp
mn ph s, tri huyn,
tri chu, huyn tha,
ng quan chnh, chnh
t, ng tri chu,
quan, in b, t ban,
hun o
Sa
Cc thi y vin i s,
vin s, ng y, nghim
bin, lng y chnh,
khn chn, lng y
ph, thi quan th
chnh, ng vn nh
nhc th chnh, tha
d cc cc chnh, gio
phng ty chnh, t
thn lang
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Dy thao n
Ni
quan
Dy thao n
Cc chc trng s,
bnh s, thng s,
chnh ph t nghi,
ph hiu y, th c,
ging d, v y, tri b,
s, tri s, in s,
ch b, x mc, ngc
tha, v cc hng
thuc vin tp lu
Sa n
dng
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Nhng ngi tn tht

thc th cc chc lng
chnh, lng ph, lng
tha
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc ni gim,
tng thi gim, thi
gim, chng gim m
c tc qun cng
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
xu ht ngc
Cc chc thi gim,

thim thi gim, tham
chng gim, tham tri
gim, ng tri gim
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c ph hu
Dy thao kp
Cc chc t hu thi
gim, t hu gim
tha, t hu im
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
Dy thao n
Sa
o Thanh Ct
c lt, khng
c ph hu
Cc chc phng ng,

gim b
o Thanh Ct
c lt
Chc tc
o m
Cc chc x nhn, n li,

tng thn li, lnh s, ni
th t th t cai ty, cai hp, th
hp tr ln, th ni vn chc
th t nho sinh trng thc,
gim sinh tr ln
-Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Sa n

dng, o Thanh Ct c lt, khng c ph hu
Trung th snh, cc chc

hoa vn hc sinh, n li, x
nhn, tng thn li, lnh s,
th t, ni th t; cc vn
nha mn th cc chc li,
li, in li, thng li
-Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Thanh Ct,

o Thanh Ct khng lt
Nhng nho sinh trng thc,

gim sinh, nho sinh, x chnh,
x s, x t, sinh , quan
vin t tn, nhiu nam
-Dng m Sa n dng, o Thanh Ct vi o

ngn lt, khng c ph hu, dy thao n
- trong lng th cho dng m Sa, o Thanh

Ct c lt, dy thao n; o mc thng cho
dng cc th the, l, vi, la
369
Hong t, vng t cha c

chc tc
-Khi vo hu ni cung th dng m Lng

Cn, o sa en
mu
Hong t, vng t t chc t

hu c, c tc qun cng
tr ln

c ph hu v khng lt.
mu.
Hong t, vng t t chc

c ng tri c tc qun cng
tr xung

c ph hu v c lt
Con chu cc quan vn v,

c phong m tr ln
-Khi vo hu lm vic th con chu quan vn

dng m Sa n dng, con chu quan v
dng m Thanh Ct, u dng o Thanh Ct c
lt
Dn gian th t cc chc sc
tr xung
-Y phc u dng cc th gai, the, vi, la,

khng c lt

NH NGUYN NM 1804
(theo Hi in)
370
Phm
trt
Trn
nht
phm
(Tn
nhn
ph
tn
nhn
lnh)
Ban vn
Phc u
trn, m
ca quan
chnh
nht
phm nh
trn. m
ca quan
tng nht
phm 1
kha kiu
vng, 2
ht vng
cao 5
phn, cn
li nh
trn
-Mng
bo c
trn,
cc mu
xanh, lc,
lam, en
ty nghi
Chnh
tng
nh
phm
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
vng, hoa
vng
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng, sc
giao long
vng
Nh trn
Chnh
tng
tam
phm
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
vng,
hoa vng
mt
trc v
mt sau;
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng
Nh trn
Ban v
Y,
thng,
B t
ai, hia,
tt
Y,
thng,
B t
ai,
hia
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
vng, 2
ht vng
cao 6
phn;
ngch
tng
vng, hoa
vng
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng, sc
giao long
vng
-Mng
bo c
trn, mu
ta
-ai: sc
ton vng,
mt trc
v sau u
tr mt
hnh rng
bn mng;
cn li tr
Tin hc,
nn
Phc u
vung
1 kha
kiu
vng, 2
ht vng
cao 5
phn; cn
li nh
quan vn
-Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu K
ln
-Nh
ban
vn;
ai tr
K ln
-Thng
thu Tin
hc xen
hoa, mu
Chnh
tng
nht
phm
-Hia u
vung
mu en
-Bt tt
vin gm
Nh trn
Phc u
vung
-Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu K
ln
-Nh
ban
vn;
ai tr
K ln
-ai: sc
ton vng,
mt trc
v sau ai
u tr
hnh Tin
hc; cn
li, tr
hnh hoa,
nn
Phc u
vung
Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu
Bch
trch
-Nh
ban
vn;
ai tr
Bch
trch
ai: sc
ton
vng, b
mt vng
khng
chm tr,
nn
Phc u
vung
Nh
ban vn;
thng
thu S
t
Nh
ban
vn
-Thng
thu Tin
hc xen
hoa, mu
371
Chnh
Tng
t
phm
372
Chnh
tng
ng
phm
Chnh
tng
lc
phm
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
bc, hoa
vng
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
vng
-Hoa bo
c trn
(thu
hoa),
cc mu
xanh, lc,
lam, en
ty nghi
-Thng:
lm bng
sa, on;
mu
xanh, lc
ty nghi;
nn hoa
trn, mu
, thu
Khng
tc vin
gm
ai: mt
i mi,
hai vin
di ca ba
ming i
mi pha
trc bc
vng, cn
li u bc
bc, nn
Phc u
trn, 1
kha kiu
bc, hoa
bc
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
bc
-o bo
c trn
lm bng
sa, on,
nh B
t thu
Vn
nhn,
nn ;
cc mu
xanh, lc,
lam, en
ty nghi
ai: mt
i mi
bc bc,
nn
Phc u
trn, hoa
bc
mt trc
v sau,
hai cnh
chun
vin bc
bc
Nh trn,
B t
thu Bch
nhn
ai: ba
ming
pha trc
mt i
mi, cn
li l sng
en, u
bc bc,
nn ai
Phc u
vung
-Chnh
t phm:
o Giao
bo
(thu
giao
long) c
trn
Nh
ban
vn
Chnh
tng
tht
phm
Phc u
trn, hoa
bc trc
sau u
1 bng,
hai cnh
chun
vin trn
-Tng t
phm:
o Hoa
bo
(thu
hoa) c
trn,
cc mu
xanh,
lc, lam,
en ty
nghi
Phc u
vung
-o bo
nh ban
vn ng
phm,
B t
thu Bo
Nh
trn, B
t thu
L t;
tng tht
phm B
t thu
L t nn
xanh
-ai: mt
sng en
bc bc,
nn
- Bt tt:
mu thi
lc
-Thng:
lm bng
sa, on,
mu
xanh, lc
ty nghi;
phn
mu
thi lc
hai bn
thng
khng
thu hoa
trn.
Nh
ban
vn
373
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN VN V
-Thng
thu Bo
TRIU NGUYN NM 1845

(theo Hi in)
Phc u
vung
-o bo
nh ban
vn lc
phm,
B t
thu
Hng
-Thng
thu
Hng
Nh
ban
vn
Ban vn
Ban v
Quan vn i m Phc u trn, quan v i m Phc u vung,

thn ai u dng tre thuc (thc sa trc) bc on mu xch v.
M
Y, thng,
B t
ai, hia, tt
Y,
thng,
B t
ai,
hia
374
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
vng, 1 ngch
tng vng
cao 4 phn,
pha ngoi
tr hnh giao
long; 2 kha
gin vng;
pha trc 1
hoa vng, 2
giao long vng;
pha sau 2 hoa
vng; hai cnh
chun vin
bc vng, b
mt sc giao
long bn ngc
bng vng, u
cnh chun
u sc vng;
2 nh vng,
2 nhiu tuyn
vng
-o bo mu
c ng, may
bng on
Bt ti thu
hnh T linh,
t ng sc gia
vng.
-Thng
lm bng sa
mt, t mu
hoa xch ng
sc gia vng,
thu hnh
Tin hc
Phc u trn,
trang sc nh
chnh cht
phm, ring
ngch tng
cao 3 phn,
tr hnh hoa;
mt m khng
c ngc chu;
u hai cnh
chun khng
sc vng
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
vng; 2 kha
gin vng;
pha trc 1
hoa vng, 2
giao long vng;
pha sau 2 hoa
vng; hai cnh
chun vin
bc vng, b
mt sc giao
long vng; 2
nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn
vng
-ai: tng
cng 18
ming ai
pha trc
sau, phi
tri, vung
di, dt; 2
mc bc;
ming
chnh gia
pha trc
v hai
ming hnh
qu trm
hai bn
phi tri
u khm
vng, tr
hnh hoa,
cc ming
cn li b
mt khm
i mi,
u bc bc
Phc u
vung
(Tuy
Hi in
khng ghi
chp c
th, song
tranh nh
th k XX
cho thy,
quy ch
m Phc
u nm
1845 ca
quan v
tng t
nh quan
vn, song
s gia
gim nh
quy ch
nm 1804)
-o bo mu
thin thanh
dng on
Bt ti thu
hnh T linh,
t ng sc gia
vng
-Thng nh
quan chnh
nht phm
ai: 13
ming pha
trc v hai
bn phi
tri u bc
t kim; 5
ming pha
sau bc
bc; mt ai
khm i
mi
Phc u
vung,
trang
sc nh
quan vn
tng nht
phm
-o bo mu
cam bch,
dng on
Bt ti thu T
linh, t ng
sc gia vng.
-Thng nh
quan chnh
nht phm
-ai: trong
13 ming
pha trc
v hai bn
phi tri
c 7 ming
nm trong
bc t kim,
6 ming bc
bc, so le; 5
ming pha
sau bc bc;
tt c u
khm i
mi ln b
mt
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn chnh
nh phm
Nh quan vn
nht phm;
thng thu hnh
K ln
-Nh
quan
vn
chnh
nh
phm
-Thng
thu
hnh
Bch
trch
-Nh
quan
vn
chnh
nh
phm
Phc u
trn, trang sc
nh chnh nh
phm, ring
m b trang
sc giao long
mt cnh
chun
-o bo nh
chnh nh
phm, ring
dng mu
quan lc
-Thng nh
quan chnh
nh phm
-ai: Ming
vung pha
trc v
hai ming
hnh qu
trm hai
bn phi
tri u
bc t kim,
14 ming
cn li bc
bc, b mt
khm i
mi
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn tng
nh phm
-Nh
quan
vn
tng nh
phm
-Thng
thu
hnh
Bch
trch
Nh
quan
vn
tng
nh
phm
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
vng, 2 kha
gin vng, pha
trc pha sau
u c 1 hoa
vng, 2 giao
long vng, 2
cnh chun
vin bc vng,
2 nh vng,
2 nhiu tuyn
vng
-o bo nh
quan nh
phm. Ring
dng mu
bo lam
-Thng nh
quan nh
phm, ring
dng mu
xch mc,
thu hnh
Cm k
-ai: 18
ming u
bc bc,
mt khm
i mi
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn chnh
tam phm
-Nh
quan
vn
chnh
tam
phm
-Thng
thu
hnh S
t
Nh
quan
vn
chnh
tam
phm
Phc u trn,
trang sc nh
chnh tam
phm, ring
b 2 giao long
vng
-o bo nh
chnh tam
phm, ring
dng mu
ngc lam
-Thng nh
quan chnh
tam phm
ai: Nh
quan chnh
tam phm,
mt khm
sng Bch
hoa
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn tng
tam phm
Nh
quan
vn tng
tam
phm;
Thng
thu S
t
Nh
quan
vn
tng
tam
phm
Phc u
trn, 1 bc sn
bc, 2 kha
gin vng,
pha trc v
sau u 1 hoa
vng, hai cnh
chun vin
bc vng, 2
nh bc, 2
nhiu tuyn
bc
-o bo dng
tru thu
giao long
mu quan
lc, t ng
sc gia vng.
-Thng
lm bng sa
mt, t mu
bo lam ng
sc gia vng,
thu hnh
Khng tc
ai: 13
ming pha
trc v
hai bn
tri phi
bc bc; 5
ming pha
sau bc
ng; tt c
u khm
sng hoa
(hoa gic)
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn t
phm
Nh
quan
vn t
phm;
Thng
thu
hnh H
Nh
quan
vn t
phm
375
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA MT S V HONG T, HONG THN,

TN THT NH NGUYN NM 1845
(theo Hi in)
376
Phc u trn,
trang sc nh
quan t phm,
nhng cc
trang sc ton
bng bc
-o bo dng
tru thu hoa
mu bo lam,
t ng sc gia
vng.
-Thng lm
bng sa mt,
t mu quan
lc ng sc
gia vng
-B t dng
on mu
xch v, thu
Vn nhn
-ai: 9
ming pha
trc v
hai bn tri
phi bc
bc v ng
xen k; 3
ming pha
sau bc
ng; tt c
u khm
sng hoa
Phc u trn,
pha trc, sau
u c 1 hoa
bc; hai cnh
chun vin
bc bc; 2 nh
bc, 2 nhiu
tuyn bc
-o bo dng
tru bng
mu ngc
lam
-Thng
dng sa T
mu quan
lc.
-B t dng
on mu
xch v, thu
hnh Bch
nhn
-ai: ming
chnh gia
pha trc
bc bc,
9 ming
cn li bc
ng; tt c
u khm
sng hoa
ng s, ph ng s v cc chc khoa
o chng n vn cp cho m Gii Tri c
hai sng bc th (nay) i 2 kha gin vng
thnh 2 giao long bng vng v bc
Phc u
vung,
trang sc
nh quan
vn ng
phm
-Nh
quan
vn t
phm
-B t
thu
hnh Bo
Nh
quan
vn t
phm
Y, thng, B t
ai
Tn tht
c
phong
tc thn
vng,
qun
vng
Phc u vung,
1 bc sn vng, 1
ngch tng vng
cao 4 phn tr hnh
giao long, 2 kha gin
vng, pha trc 1
hoa vng, 2 giao long
vng, pha sau 2 hoa
vng. Hai cnh chun
vin bc vng, b mt
sc giao long vng
vn ngc chu, u
cnh chun u sc
vng, 2 nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn vng
-o bo T linh
mu chn lan lm
bng on Bt ti
ng sc gia kim.
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu hoa
xch ng sc gia
kim, thu hnh K
ln
-ai ming chnh

gia pha trc
v 2 ming hnh
dt hai bn phi
tri, b mt u
tr hnh hoa khm
vng, cn li b
mt khm mai i
mi, u bc vng
t kim
Tn tht
c
phong tc
thn cng,
quc cng
Phc u vung, 1
bc sn vng, 1 ngch
tng vng cao 3
phn tr hnh hoa, 2
kha gin vng, pha
trc 1 hoa vng, 2
giao long vng, pha
sau 2 hoa vng, 2 cnh
chun vin bc vng,
2 giao long vng, 2
nh vng, 2 nhiu
tuyn vng
-o bo T linh
mu chn lan lm
bng on Bt ti
ng sc gia kim.
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu hoa
xch ng sc gia
kim, thu hnh K
ln
-ai 13 ming pha

trc v hai bn
phi tri bc vng
t kim, 5 ming
pha sau bc bc,
b mt u khm
mai i mi
Tn tht
c
phong tc
qun cng,
huyn
cng
Phc u vung, 1
bc sn vng, 2 kha
gin vng, pha trc
1 hoa vng, 2 giao
long vng, pha sau
2 hoa vng, 2 cnh
chun vin bc vng,
b mt sc giao long
vng, 2 nh vng, 2
nhiu tuyn vng
-o bo T linh
mu t n lm
bng on Bt ti
ng sc gia kim
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu hoa
xch ng sc gia
kim, thu Bch
trch
ai 13 ming
pha trc v hai
bn phi tri c 7
ming bc vng
t kim, 6 ming
bc bc, xen k. 5
ming pha sau bc
bc, b mt u
khm mai i mi
377

NH NGUYN
(theo Hi in)
378
Tn tht
c
phong
hng
cng,
huyn hu,
hng hu
Phc u vung,
so vi tn tht c
phong tc qun
cng, m Phc u
vung lc i 1 hoa
vng pha sau, mt
m lc trang sc
giao long vng
-o bo T linh
mu xch
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu mc
xch thu S t
ai 18 ming u
bc bc
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong k
ngoi hu,
k ni hu,
nh hu,
tr quc
khanh
Phc u vung, 1
bc sn bc, 2 kha
gin vng, trc sau
1 hoa vng, hai cnh
chun vin bc bc,
2 nh bc, 2 nhiu
tuyn bc
-o Giao bo mu
ging chu lm
bng tru ng sc
gia kim.
-Thng lm bng
sa mt mu quan
lc thu H.
ai 13 ming pha
trc v hai bn
phi tri bc bc. 5
ming pha sau bc
ng, b mt u
khm hoa gic
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
t quc
khanh,
phng
quc
khanh, tr
quc y, t
quc y
Phc u vung,1 bc
sn bc, 2 kha gin
bc, trc sau 1 hoa
bc, hai cnh chun
vin bc bc, 2 nh
bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
bc
-o Hoa bo mu
tng lm bng
tru ng sc gia
kim
-Thng lm bng
sa T hoa mu
quan lc
-B t lm bng t
v ti , thu Bo
ai 9 ming pha
trc v hai bn
phi tri bc bc
v ng xen k, 3
ming pha sau bc
ng, b mt u
khm hoa gic
Hong t,
thn
vng, tn
tht c
phong
phng
quc y,
tr quc
lang, t
quc lang,
phng
quc lang
Phc u vung,
trc sau 1 hoa bc,
hai cnh chun vin
bc bc, 2 nh bc,
2 nhiu tuyn bc
-o bo mu
tng m thu
2 hoa , lm bng
on Bt ti
-Thng lm bng
sa T hoa mu
quan lc.
-B t lm bng t
v ty , thu gu
ai 1 ming chnh
gia pha trc bc
bc, 9 ming cn
li bc ng, b
mt u khm hoa
gic
Quan vn
Quan v
Y, thng
B t
B t
Trn
nht
phm
Vn Cng:
sc ton bng
vng, hai di
thy anh trang
sc kim hoa
khm ngc
chu
Tin hc,
hoa
H u:
sc ton
bng vng
K ln
-o giao lnh
c trng, lm
bng sa, on,
mu xanh,
lc, lam, en
ty nghi
-Thng nn
dt vng
Nht
phm
Vn Cng:
sc ton bng
vng
Tin hc
H u
K ln
Nh trn
Nh
phm
Vn Cng
Tin hc
H u
Bch
trch
Nh trn
Tam
phm
Vn Cng
Cm k
H u
S t
Nh trn
T
phm
ng Pha: hoa
vng mt
trc v sau,
cc trang sc
nh ph nh
hoa, giao long
u dng bc
Khng tc
Xun Thu
-o giao lnh,
mu c o
nh mu o,
lm bng sa,
on; cc mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho ty
nghi
-Thng nn
Ng
phm
ng Pha:
pha trc 2
hoa bc, 2 giao
long bc, pha
sau 1 hoa bc
2 giao long bc
Vn nhn
Xun Thu
Bo
Nh trn
Lc
phm
ng Pha:
pha trc 1
hoa bc, 2 giao
long bc; pha
sau 1 hoa bc
Bch nhn
Xun Thu
(Quan v
t tht
phm tr
xung ch
t tng,
khng t
chnh)
Hng
Nh trn
379
TIU T IN
TRANG PHC VIT NAM
Anh Cn: m ca quan v cha nhp

Tht
phm
Bt
phm
Vn T Ti:
pha trc 1
hoa bc, 2 giao
long bc, pha
sau 1 hoa bc
Vn T Ti:
pha trc 1
hoa bc, sau 1
hoa bc
L t
(chnh: nn
, tng:
nn xanh)
Kh xch
380
Cu
phm
Cha
nhp
lu
Vn T Ti:
pha trc 1
hoa bc
Phong Cn:
trc sau u
sc 1 si bc
Liu thun
nn xanh
Tng tht
phm i
Vn T Ti
nh vn
chnh tht
phm
Tng bt
phm i
Vn T Ti
nh vn
chnh bt
phm
Tng bu
phm i
Vn T Ti
nh chnh
cu phm
Tuy Cn:
trc sau
u sc 1
si bc
Bu
tng:
nn
xanh
Hi m
T
ngu
nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi
-o nh trn
-Thng: lm
bng sa, on,
mu xanh, lc
ty nghi; phn
mu thi
lc hai bn
thng khng
thu hoa trn
lu triu Nguyn.
o Cu bn ngoi l da, bn trong l lng,
Bnh nh: loi m nh phng ni
-o giao lnh
mu gc bng
sa, on; mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho ty
nghi.
-Thng: Nh
trn
c lm bng lng co (H Cu) hoc
chung. Vo thi L Trung Hng, danh xng
lng chn (iu Cu).
Bnh nh c ch loi m t ca vua cha
Nh trn
o b ba: loi o vt ngn khng bu, x
hoc sa the, nh phng, trn may cnh hoa
gia, ci bng cc, ph bin Nam B.
cc my lp m ln nhau, quanh m gp
o cht: Xem o (di) nm thn.
np, di dy buc ngang trn, bung phn
o Cu: mt trong nhng loi o trnh
tha ra sau gy v hai tai c dim r, gn
rt ca gii trung lu, qu tc. Vit Nam,
tng t m Bao nh.
o (di) nm thn: ch loi o may bng
v cc quan. n thi Nguyn, t nm 1816,
nm kh vi (vt trc hai kh, vt sau hai
danh xng ny ch loi m i triu ca cc
kh, thn bn phi di ra mt kh ngn
hong t, hong thn c ban tc thn
na), phn bit vi cc dng o c may
vng, qun vng, thn cng, qun cng.
bng bn kh vi nh o t thn, o giao

lnh.
Bn long: ch hoa vn rng trn (rng )
thu trn o bo.
o giao lnh
mu gc bng
sa, on; mu
xanh, lc, lam,
en cho ty
nghi
L Trung Hng, lm bng on mu huyn
Bao Cn: m Thng triu ca vng,

hu tc ngn thi Trn.
Bnh Thin: 1. tn gi khc ca m

Min. 2. tn gi khc ca loi m Triu
phc Bnh nh ca hong t, hong thn
c ban tc thn vng, qun vng,
thn cng, qun cng triu Nguyn. Xem:
Min, Bnh nh.
Bao nh: m Tin phc ca cc v vn
B phc: ch Bo phc gn B t.
nhn, quan li qu tc thi L Trung Hng,
B t: cn gi l Hung bi, ch vung vi
kiu dng trn, nh phng, cao khong
thu hnh chim th gn trc ngc v sau
mt thc, lm bng lng ui nga, nn
lng o bo, dng phn bit phm cp
cn gi l M v Bao nh.
ca b quan. Quy ch trang phc Thng
Bo phc: hay o bo, ch loi trang
triu Hung bi - B t nh hnh vo thi
phc mc khi thit triu ca vua quan
vua Minh Thi T - Trung Quc, c p
phong kin.
dng vo triu nh Vit Nam t nm 1471.
Bt bo: tm dng hoa vn thu trn o

bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn.
Bt Tin: loi m trang trng ca vn
Bi: cn gi l thy bi, ch di ngc eo

hai bn hng, c gn kt bng cc loi
ngc c hnh th khc nhau.
381
Bn Hoa: loi m Thng phc p dng
c o giao lnh, thu cc hoa vn Ph, Pht,
Cu Long Thng Thin: cn c gi
cho th v nhn thuc ngch Tng quan
Sn, Ha Ring o Cn ca vua c
l m Cu Long, hoc m Xung Thin, m
inh T: cn gi l m Nhc, loi m
ca nh Trn.
thu hoa vn Nht, Nguyt hai vai, Long
Triu phc ca hong triu Nguyn, c
c kiu dng ch inh nm ngang, trn
hai ng tay o.
kiu dng tng t m Xung Thin triu
m thng, cong trn dn khi ti nh, vn
L, ring quy ch trang sc trn m c s
ra sau gy. y l loi m Thng phc ca
khc bit.
cc quan vn v nh Trn k t nm 1301,
Bc Cn: loi m trang trng ca vn

nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi L
Cn Min: tn gi tt ca b L phc o
Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t m ni,
Cn, m Min, l trang phc dnh ring
song hai bn mang tai c hai di tht, tht
cho vng v vng cng i thn s
Dng ng: 1. mt trong nhng dng
li sau u.
dng trong cc dp i l nh t tri t,
hoa vn hnh hoa thi Trn, L. 2. m Triu
ca Trung Quc nn gi l u Mu.
v l dng m c s dng rng ri trong

qun i v dn gian thi L Trung Hng.
Cch i: ai da ni chung, hnh trn,
l ln ngi v.v., vo thi vua L Hin Tng
phc ca Ni quan thi Trn, phm trt
on lnh: cng gi l vin lnh, nm na
trn ai c gn cc ming trang sc hnh
cn c s dng lm L phc khi vua cy
ca cc quan c phn bit da vo s
gi l o c king, ch loi o c trn, gi
vung, hnh trn hoc hnh qu trm. ai
Tch in. B L phc ny b ph b vo
hnh ong bm sc trn m. 3. m Triu
cc bn vai phi. Vo thi L, Nguyn, o
thng to rng, ch mang tnh trang sc.
thi L Trung Hng v c khi phc vo
phc ca hong t, vng t c phong
on lnh ch c dng trong nhng bui

i triu.
Cao Sn: m Thng phc ca cc
thi vua Minh Mng triu Nguyn. Vo thi
tc quc cng triu L Trung Hng, kiu
quan vn t nht phm n lc phm thi
Nguyn, Cn Min ch c s dng trong
dng nh m Phc u, duy pha sau cao
ng Pha: m Thng phc p dng
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396, m Thng
dp t Nam Giao.
hn, hai cnh chun c khi c nm vng.
cho quan vn t, ng, lc phm triu
phc ca vn v b quan, gio th Quc T
Cn phc: tn gi chung ca o Cn v
a La: cn gi l a La Ni, hay La Ni,
Nguyn, l ph pha sau m c ln
Gim v gio vin cc l, huyn thi L s
tt c phc sc i km nh thng, t tt,
u ch cng mt loi vi gai, phn ln c
theo hnh sng, gy m nh hai di anh r
t nm 1434 n nm 1437.
i i, cch i, bi, th v.v.
mu xanh v . Vo thi L Trung Hng,
xung lng.
Cn hon: loi trang sc hnh trn c
Cng phc: 1.vn ng ngha vi khi
nh vo hai bn m Ton Hoa thi Trn.
nim Thng phc, tc trang phc mc
loi m inh T c lm t cht liu vi

gai ny c gi l m a La.
ng Cn: 1. loi m Tin phc c

lm bng the en, tng t kiu dng m
Chit Xung: m Thng phc ca cc
vo nhng bui thng triu ngy 5, 10,
ai: th phc sc eo ngang lng bn
Phc u, ring hai cnh chun c ct lm
quan v t nht phm n lc phm thi
20, 25, t th k XV tr v sau ch loi trang
ngoi o bo, c gn cc ming trang sc
bng ct my, bung ra sau, choi sang
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
phc vua quan mc vo nhng bui chu
hnh trn, hnh qu trm lm bng kim loi
hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . 2. loi m
Chng: cc hoa vn thu trn L phc
mng mt v ngy rm. 2. ch loi trang
hoc i mi, c x qua hai dy tht
Thng phc ca vua v l m Triu phc
Cn Min, tng trng cho tri t vn vt,
phc trang trng ca nho s v dn thng.
di ra t nch o, m ly ngi, thng ch
ca hong thi t nh Nguyn, m c phn
gm Nht (mt tri), Nguyt (mt trng),
Cng Thn: loi m Triu phc dnh
mang tnh trang sc
gy nh cao, chm khum trn chm v
Tinh thn (sao), Sn (ni), Long (rng), Hoa
cho cc v vng, hu, minh t thi L -
i i: 1. ai tht lng, c hai di to
trng (chim tr), Tng di (cc tng miu,
Trn, phm trt c phn bit bi s bc
bn bung xung di chn, cn gi l
c hnh h v kh), To (rong), Ha (la),
v s trang sc ong bm trn m.
pha trc, choi sang hai bn thnh hnh

ch Bt .
thn. 2. di la mu xanh trong Cn phc
Gic nh: m Thng phc ca cc v
Cu Long: Xem Cu Long Thng Thin.
ca vua quan triu Nguyn; mt u di la
c tc cao m khng c chc trong triu
C : tn gi ca mt s dng hoa vn
Cu Long ng Cn: cn gi l ng
c tht ai da pha trc, sau vng
nh Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
thu trn o bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn.
Cn, loi m Thng phc ca hong
qua vai, c nh li phn ai sau lng.
C king. Xem: on lnh.
triu Nguyn, m c phn gy nh cao,
Xem: Thn.
Cn: cn gi l Long Cn, hoc Cn
chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi
u Mu: cn gi l m Tr, bo v
linh th mt sng, bn tnh ngay thng,
Long y, loi o trong L phc Cn Min,
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Xem:
phn u ca binh s khi gio mc, v hnh
thng c to hnh tng t k ln.
thng c mu xanh sm hoc mu huyn,
ng Cn.
dng ging chic mu, mt loi ni thi c
Ngay t thi Hn, triu nh Trung Quc
Phn m (go), Ph (ru), Pht (ch ).
382
Gii Tri: m ca php quan cc triu

L, L, Nguyn. Gii tri tng truyn l
383
m phng sng gii tri ch ra loi m
sau khng thy na, ti Vit Nam hin ch
hu v hng hu triu Nguyn, thng kt
dy ngc r pha trc v pha sau, gi l
p dng cho cc quan thc thi php lut,
thy qua tm ngi c nin i thi Trn.
hp vi o bo T linh mu .
lu. Xem: Lu.
nhm nhn gi nim v lng tri v s
Hoa bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc
cng bng. Triu nh nh L, L, Nguyn
hnh hoa trn thi Nguyn.
L phc: ch loi trang phc vua quan

mc vo cc bui cng t, l tit, cng c
Min bn: cn gi l din, vn p hnh

vung (hoc ch nht) trn m Min.
Vit Nam u p dng m Gii Tri cho cc
Honh: tn gi ca mt loi dy trn
v php quan, tuy nhin kiu dng m mo
m Min gi m c nh trn u, mt
mi thi mi khc bit, thi L m ny c
u dy buc trm ngc ci trn m, sau
kiu dng Lng Quan, cn thi Nguyn c
vng qua cm vt ln u kia ca trm.
Lng Cn: 1. loi m thi vua L Thnh
nhn u, vua v i thn cm tay trong
kiu dng Phc u.
Trm dng c nh bi tc. Vo thi
Tng, c lm bng lng ui nga, tn
cc bui i l, tnh cht tng t ht. Xem:
Nguyn, dy honh c thay th bng dy
m c ngha l m mt v thng c
Ht.
thy anh. Xem: Thy anh.
s dng vo ma h. 2. loi m i khi vo
Ng i: loi phc sc eo trn ai
Giao bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc

hnh giao long dng trn thi Nguyn.
khi c gi l T phc.
M Nhc. Xem: inh T.
Long bo: loi o bo thu hnh rng
M Tr. Xem: u Mu.
ca vua cha ni chung.
Ngc khu: ming ngc hnh ch nht,
Giao lnh: cng gi l trc lnh, trng
Ht: ming ng (hoc g, tre) hnh ch
chu ca hong t, vng t cha c
ca cc quan vn. Trung Quc vo thi
lnh, nm na gi l o trng vt, ch loi o
nht, cc quan cm tay trong cc bui i
phong tc theo quy ch nm 1661. 3. loi
ng, Ng i c dng ph hiu mang
c bt cho trc ngc, nh loi o trng
l, thit triu, tnh cht tng t ngc khu.
m Th phc chu cha ca cc quan vn
hnh con c, ng trong ti, dng nh th
ca cc nh s chng ta vn thy hin nay.
Xem: Ngc khu.
theo quy ch nm 1721.
bi ra vo i ni. n thi Tng, Ng
Gip Minh Quang: loi o gip hon
Hung bi. Xem: B t.
Lng Quan: cn gi l m Tin Hin,
i khng cn c ng trong ti m
b vo thi ng vi c trng l hai tm
K y: loi o trng c trn cc tay, kt
c cc vin lng trang sc chy dc trn
dng vng bc trc tip ch thnh hnh
h tm hnh trn trc ngc v hai ming
hp vi thng, c mc lt bn trong L
thn m, s vin lng c dng phn
con c eo ai, ch mang tnh trang sc,
trang sc hnh u h gn hai bn vai.
phc, Triu phc v Thng phc ca vua
bit phm cp ca b quan.
t s cao sang vinh hin. Ng i xut hin
Gip Tr: tn gi chung ca o Gip v
quan, qu tc triu Nguyn.
m Tr. Xem: u Mu.
Lu: 1. tn gi ca cc chui ngc chu
ti Vit Nam mun nht l vo nm 798, b
Khn xp: khn vn tc ca n ng
nh hai u Min bn trn m Min. S
Giy Tch: loi giy c hai lp , lp
c qun xp np u n, cht theo kiu
lu c quy nh da vo thn phn ca
Nht Bnh: o Triu phc dnh cho
trn lm bng gai hoc da, lp di lm
ch Nht , hoc ch Nhn gia trn.
ngi i m, nh m ca hong c 12
cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai v l Thng
bng g. Giy Tch vn l loi giy thi Hn,
Khong nm 1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi ch
lu, m ca vng cng c 9 lu. 2. tn ca
phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu, cng
v sau ch cn c s dng vo nhng dp
ra loi khn khu dn lin nhng vnh np
loi di tht Bo phc ca vua v hong
cha triu Nguyn. y l loi o x c, c
i l. T nm 1396 n 1404, triu nh
li, ch vic t chp ln u cho nhanh
hu triu Nguyn.
dng i khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh
Trn - H quy nh vn v b quan t lc
chng v thun tin, gi l khn xp.
M qui: loi o c trn cc tay, m
ph b vo thi L s.
ch nht trc ngc, di c c di vi
phm tr ln u c i giy Tch trong
Kh: mc pha di ca n ng, c
cc bui Thng triu. Vo thi L s, triu
khi ch chic qun hai ng, cng c khi ch
Mng bo. Xem: T linh bo.
nh nh L vn thng thng giy Tch
dng khn qun quanh eo v i che h b.
Mng lan: dng o hp tay, c li thu
tng, thn trn, hai cnh chun trn v to
Khc Phi: m Thng phc ca quan
sc tng t nh Mng bo, song chiu di
bn. M ny vn c ch ra da trn kiu
ng s i thi Trn - H k t sau nm
vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng
dng m Phc u. Xem: Phc u.
1396.
bo, c p dng cho mt s v quan v
cho cng thn.

H u: m Thng phc p dng cho
quan v nht, nh, tam phm triu Nguyn.
ngc, ci bng cc, mc lt bn trong.
buc hai vt o.
Sa: m dnh cho quan vn, c hai
Phong Cn: cn gi l m T Ti, loi
H Quan: loi m lm bng st, c hnh
Kim Quan: loi m Triu phc ca
u h, xut hin ti Trung Quc vo thi
hong t, hong thn c phong tc
Min: cn gi l m Lu Min, m Bnh
v l m L phc ca dn gian, kiu dng
Ty ng - Ng i, t thi Tng tr v
qun cng, huyn cng, hng cng, huyn
Thin, c vn p hnh ch nht, nh cc
tng t m Vn T Ti, song khng c
384
triu Nguyn.
m p dng cho quan vn cha nhp lu
385
trang sc, khng thu hoa, mu en tuyn.

Xem: ng Pha, Vn T Ti.
Phc u: loi m hai tng, tng sau
Phng bo: o bo thu hnh chim
tam sn (ba ngn ni) nh gia trn m.
Thng Thin: tn gi khc ca m
phng ca hu phi triu Nguyn ni
T tt: vung vi hnh ch nht che pha
Quyn Vn vo thi Trn, m Triu Thin
trc h th, mt trong nhng ph kin ca
vo thi L, v m Xung Thin vo thi
L phc Cn Min.
Nguyn. Xem: Quyn Vn, Triu Thin,
chung.
nh cao hn tng trc, l ni cha bi tc,
Phng ng t phc: dng o bo Triu
gy m nh hai cnh chun nm ngang.
phc ca tc hu, minh t thi Trn, trn
M Phc u thi Tng c dng vung vc.
o thu hoa vn phng c.
Thi bo: tn gi chung ca cc loi o
Xung Thin.
bo c thu hoa vn sc s.
Th: cn gi t th, di tt bng cc
Nh Minh v sau da theo kiu dng m
Phng Quan: m Triu phc ca hu
Thi C: m Thng phc ca cc quan
si t tht sau lng, gm i th, di tt
Phc u thi Tng ch ra mt dng m
phi triu Nguyn, ngi th c phn bit
vn v chnh tht phm, bt phm, cu
kn hnh ch nht, v tiu th, di tt tha,
trn, hai cnh chun trn, to bn, gi l m
bi s lng trang sc phng ma rng
phm thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
nm trn i th.
Sa. M Phc u c du nhp vo Vit
bay trn m. M c chn hnh phng ma
Thanh Ct: 1. loi vi Ct thng c mu
Thng: mt dng vy quy, quy ra
Nam t nm 1059, p dng lm m Thng
rng bay c gi l Cu Phng Quan, c
xanh en, ngoi ra cn c nhum thnh
ngoi chic qun hai ng, loi trang phc
phc ca b quan, n thi Trn b ph
by hnh gi l Tht Phng Quan
cc mu ha minh, vi minh v mu qu. 2.
ny ph bin trong dn gian Vit Nam vo
b, ti du nhp vo triu L s. n thi
Qun: t ch chung cc loi vy, bao
loi o T phc ca vua cha, Thng phc
thi L - Trn. n thi Nguyn, thng
Nguyn, nh Nguyn quy nh m Phc
gm c thng. Tuy nhin, t cui thi
ca quan li, ng thi cng l Tin phc
cn c gi l xim, trang phc c quy
u vung l loi m dnh cho quan v,
Nguyn, khi nim qun c dng ch
ca quan dn triu L Trung Hng, s khu
nh s dng trong nhng bui l, thit
m Phc u trn ( Sa) dnh cho quan
loi mc pha di, c hai ng chn.
bit da trn mu sc o. 3. loi m ca mt
triu, p dng i vi vua quan v hong
vn. M Phc u ca Vit Nam hu ht
Xem: Kh, Qun chn.
u c gn cc trang sc bng kim loi.

Ph Dung: mt loi m ca vua nh
Trn theo ghi nhn ca L Tc, nhiu kh
s hng binh lnh cp thp, ca thng dn
tc, nhng ngi c danh v v phm trt.
Qun chn: ch loi qun c hai ng
triu L Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t
Xem: Xim.
chn phn bit vi loi qun khng y, l
m inh T, cng l loi m cc quan i
chic vy c cu ca ph n Vit xa kia.
khi nc c quc tang.
Thng phc: trang phc mc vo

nhng bui Thng triu, cc ngy mng
nng l m Thng triu, thng c bit
Quyn Vn: tn gi khc ca m Thng
Thao: 1. loi dy tt dng treo vo
n l m ca o gio, c hnh dng bng
Thin, loi m c chp un cong ng v
nn (nn quai thao). 2. loi dy tt dng
Thy anh: tn gi khc ca dy honh
sen, chp vo bi tc.
pha sau, trng nh ng my cun, thn
tht lng, c s dng rng ri vo thi L
trn m Min dnh cho hong triu
Ph hu: hai cnh di ra t hai bn sn
m c cc vin lng c nh cc ht
Trung Hng.
Nguyn, c lm bng t vng, tht cm,
o bo theo quy ch ca nh Minh, c p
ngc chu. y l loi m Triu phc ca
Thn: tn gi khc ca i i, mt
c tua hnh ht bt r xung. Xem: Honh.
dng vo triu nh L Trung Hng v triu
vua Tng. Qua ghi chp ca L Tc, cc vua
dng ai tht lng, c hai di to bn bung
Thy ba: hoa vn sng nc trn o bo
Nguyn.
nh Trn cng s dng m Quyn Vn, c
xung di chn.
5, 10, 20, 25.
triu L - Nguyn.
Phng tm khc lnh: dng phc sc
l khi p dng vo Vit Nam, loi m ny
Tht Long ng Cn: loi m Triu
Tin phc: trang phc vua quan mc
lm bng la trng, hnh trn eo vo
cng c s dng trong cc bui i triu.
phc ca hong thi t triu Nguyn, c
vo ngy thng, nhng lc khng phi
c, chnh gia c mt on la di xung
Song khai: loi o x vt trc, vt sau,
kiu dng tng t m Cu Long ng
thit triu.
hnh vung, thng c phi vi L phc
trang phc thng dng ca binh lnh triu
Cn ca hong , song s lng trang sc
ca vua v cc quan i thn, t nht cn
Nguyn.
trn m c s gia gim. Xem: ng Cn.
c s dng n thi Trn. Nh Nguyn
Tam Sn: loi m c nhng mi hnh
khng s dng loi phc sc ny.
my un cong chp m, c ngc chu
Phng Thng: m Thng phc ca
nh dc cc vin lng tng t m
tn tht thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Quyn Vn Thng Thin, c trang sc hnh
386
Thin H i: di la trang sc vt ngang
Tiu kim t phc: dng o bo Triu

phc mu ta nm vng ca tc vng
thi Trn.
min bn trn m Min ca vng.

Th phc: trang phc b quan s dng
khi vo chu cha Trnh.
Ton Hoa: loi m p dng cho ngch

Tng quan ca nh Trn, c hai kim hon
nh hai bn m, vi nhung mu ta pha
387
bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang
T in: loi o c trn, t phn c tr
vi trang phc Cn Min ca hong ,
Xun Thu: 1. loi m L phc ca hong
sau m. T nm 1396 n ht triu H, m
xung x t, c may bng bn kh vi,
mu en huyn hoc xanh sm, thu hoa
triu Nguyn s dng khi t l ti tng
Ton Hoa c p dng lm m Thng
thng c mu en, c s dng ph bin
vn chim tr.
miu; 2. loi m Thng phc ca cc quan
phc ca cc quan vn v tng tht phm.
trong cung nh v dn gian Vit Nam thi
Trng vt. Xem: Giao lnh.
L - Trn.
Vin lnh. Xem: on lnh.
v t, ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
Vin Du: m Thng phc ca cc v
Xung Thin: dng m c kiu dng nh
Triu phc: loi trang phc vua quan
T linh bo: cn gi l Mng bo, o
vng hu thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
m Phc u, ring hai cnh chun hng
mc vo cc bui l nh, song vo thi
bo Triu phc ca cc quan nht, nh, tam
V i Long: loi m qun phc ca cc
ln tri. y l loi m Thng phc ca
Nguyn, c ng nht vi Cng phc,
phm triu Nguyn, trn o c thu bn
v vua u triu Nguyn, c kt hp vi
cc vua thi L s, v l m Triu phc ca
ch loi trang phc mc vo bui i triu
loi linh th long, ly, quy, phng.
Long bo hp tay.
vua L, cha Trnh, cng nh vua cha nh
ngy rm v mng mt.
T Phng Bnh nh: m ca nho
Vng cn: dng li bc quanh u
Triu Thin: 1. m Thng triu ca cc
sinh, t ti thi Minh Trung Quc v ca
c nh tc c p dng vo triu nh
vng, hu tc di thi Trn; 2. tn gi
cc tn sinh qu tc ca nh Nguyn Vit
ng Trong t nm 1744 v tip tc s
khc ca m Xung Thin thi L, loi m c
Nam. Loi m ny lm bng the, bn bn
dng trong cung nh triu Nguyn.
kiu dng tng t m Phc u, hai cnh
vung vc, trn rng di hp.
chun hi gp, hng ln tri.
T Phng Bnh nh: loi m qun
Trc lnh: 1. tn gi khc ca o giao
trang p dng cho Thp o qun thi vua
lnh; 2. ch loi o c thng ni chung, bao
inh Tin Hong, c duy tr n thi
gm c o giao lnh, t thn, Nht Bnh.
L Trung Hng. Loi m ny lm bng da,
Xem: Giao lnh.
nh phng, bn bn vung vc c khu
Trung n: o lt trong mu trng, kiu
thi mi khc.
Yn V: m Tin phc ca cc quan v
triu L Trung Hng, thn hnh lc lng,
Xim: vn ch t tt, vung vi hnh ch
sau m c mt l ph tng t hnh ui n
nht che trc h th, vo thi Nguyn c
nn cn c gi l m n Dip (l n),
dng ch thng. Xem: Thng, T tt.
hoc m ui n.
TH MC SCH TRCH DN
rp li, trn hp di rng.
giao lnh, c o thng c thu cc hoa
Nguyn. Quy ch trang sc trn m mi
T tu gin bch: di vi nhung mu ta
vn Ph.
pha bic c gn sau m Thng phc
Trung Tnh: loi m Tin phc ca cc
ca cc quan nh Trn. m ca Tng
chc quan i khi nhn h, khng phi vo
quan, di vi ny c phn lm su tua,
A. T liu Vit Nam:
). Trn Xun Ngc Lan phin m v
gn ai ngang sau m.
An Nam phong tc sch ().
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Vn Cng: m Thng phc p dng
ny c th hin trn pho tng hong t
cho quan vn nht, nh, tam phm triu
Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu. Tp
L nh T cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh.
Nguyn, trang sc ton bng vng, c hai
1. Thi Cng Nguyn ch bin. Trung tm
di anh sc hoa vng khm ngc chu.
bo tn di tch c Hu. 1997
Trng lnh. Xem: Giao lnh.

T thn: loi o x t hai bn sn, c
Vn T Ti: m Thng phc p dng
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cho cc quan vn v tht, bt, cu phm
thng xung di, di qu gi. Loi o t
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Pha, ring l ph pha sau m phng l
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V ch: L phc tn qu nht trong su
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396
397
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Ngn Nm o M

Bn quyn tc phm Trn Quang c, 2013

Bin mc trn xut bn phm ca Th vin Quc gia Vit Nam

Ngn nm o m chc chn khng th hon thnh sm nu khng

nc ta, trc nay khi mun tm hiu vn ha c ca dn tc,

c s gip nhit tnh t pha nhng ngi bn, ngi ng nghip

nht l v cch n mc, ngi ta khng bit phi trng vo u. Cc sch

c nh Lch triu hin chng hay cc sch Khm nh, Hi in i khi

Nay nhn dp cun sch c ra mt bn c, chng ti xin cm

c nhc n mt vi kiu y phc, m mo, nhng cng ch s lc, v

Cng, Nguyn Nh an Huyn, Nomura Chosho, Nguyn Quang

Cc tc phm trn c vit vi mc ch p dng cho ngi ng

Duy, Nguyn Nht Anh, Nguyn Thnh t, Thn Tun, Nguyn

thi, ch khng phi l s liu hay ti liu vn ha cho i sau. Hn na,

Th Bch, Nguyn Th Dung, T Lan, Trn Vn Quyn, Nguyn Pht

trong thi i ca cc c tc gia , khi nhng kiu loi trang phc c

H Giang, Chihiro Motohiro, H Nh , l nhng ngi sao chp,

nhc n trong sch ca h vn cn thng dng, tn gi h lit k vn l

cung cp t liu cho chng ti. c bit, L Tip cn l ngi gip

cc vt dng i thng, th vic gii thch v chng l khng cn thit.

chng ti thc hin mt s tranh v phc dng.

T d nh ngy nay c my ai cn phi c ging gii mi bit th no

Chng ti xin chn thnh cm n anh inh Thanh Hiu, Trnh

l ci o di hay chic nn l. Nhng tng t, vi nm na y phn

bc Lai Thy, bc Dng Trung Quc, anh Nguyn Mnh Tin, ch

Vn ha trang phc truyn thng Vit Nam b mt du tch su

Quch Hin, anh ng Hi Quang nhng ngi c nhiu s quan

m nht khi nn vn ha Ty phng do ngi Php a vo c p

tm v gip chng ti trong vic tm kim cc ngun ti tr.

t trit ln x hi Vit Nam. Tip theo l s i thay ca lch s v

Chng ti xin trn trng cm n cc anh Nguyn Hu Chin,

thc h. Nhng bin ng x hi y khin cho ngy nay khng ai cn

bit ng b ta ngy xa n mc, sinh sng nh th no. V khi cn ti

ti tr cho cng trnh nghin cu ny.

hin li n mc ca ngi Vit trong qu kh, ngi ta sng tc mt

Chng ti xin gi li tri n ti ban lnh o cng cc anh ch phng

Tu th, phng Ch bn thuc Cng ty Vn ha v Truyn thng Nh

Phim nh l phng tin truyn b vn ha cho gii tr hu hiu v

Nam, nhng ngi to nhiu iu kin cho s ra i cun sch ny.

Chng ti c bit cm n ch Nguyn Hong Diu Thy, bin tp vin

c phc trang truyn thng khc nhau. Ri gn y khi s giao lu vn

ha tr nn d dng th trang phc truyn thng Vit Nam trong phim

sch, v anh T Quc K Nam, ha s thit k ba sch.

nh v trn sn khu li mang m du n ca phim nh Trung Quc.

H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013

o m truyn thng ca gii tr Vit Nam.

Thin Quan ngha trong Kinh L c cu: Phm ngi m c th

l ngi cho ng ngha l nh l ngha, m m u ca l ngha l

H Ni, ngy 19.2.2013

cng khng phi d dng. Gi y mun kho li y quan ca c nhn,

th gii y quan vn vt ca c nhn, vi ti c sc hp dn l thng. Vi

Chng II. TRANG PHC THI TRN.....

nim v hai mu en trng ................. 147

Chng III. TRANG PHC THI L...153

II. Trang phc b quan.........................200

Chng IV. TRANG PHC THI TY

4. Qun phc ........................................295

Trang phc thi L Trung Hng..........187

Chng V. TRANG PHC THI

Trung Hng nm 1725

Trong cun sch ny, tn cc sch trch dn

S thiu khuyt s liu - hin vt l mt trong nhng tr ngi ln,

dng o m hu ht mang nng tnh t bin, c on. Mt khc, t liu