NGUYN LIU C BN DNG TRONG M PHM

Cc nguyn liu c bn dng sn xut m phm bao gm:

Cc du, m, sp
Cht hot ng b mt
Cht lm m
Cht st trng
Cht chng oxy ha
Cht mu
Hng liu
Cc cht ph gia khc

S lng cng nh thnh phn ca cc nguyn liu ty theo cng thc ca tng
loi sn phm. Mi loi nguyn liu c th c mt hoc nhiu chc nng, v c
tc ng tng ng hoc h tr cho cc nguyn liu khc.
Chng trnh ny s trnh by mt s vn chnh nh: cc yu cu c bn,
ngun gc, tnh cht ca mt s hp cht tiu biu, cc yu t nh hng n hiu
qu s dng. Ring nguyn liu hng liu c trnh by chi tit trong phn ha
hng liu v cc cht ph gia khc trong phn sn phm chm sc da dng phn.

11.1 DU- M- SP
Khi ni v du, ngi ta thng ngh ti cc cht lng hu c c trong t nhin
ging nh du olive v du da l cc glycerid hay cc hp cht este ca
glycerin v cc acid bo, nhng loi du nay c dng lm nguyn liu cho
m phm t rt lu. Ngoi ra, ngi ta cng tm thy cc hp cht c tnh cht
tng t trong t nhin hoc tng hp nh cc du hydrocarbon, du silicon
nhng loi ny khng cha glycerin lin kt.
C nhiu cch nh ngha du v sp theo chc nng ca chng. Du c
trng bi tnh cht k nc v tnh khng tan trong nc. Chng c th c s
dng lm cht nh ha hoc lm dung mi cho cc cht hu c, c nht thp v
tn ti th lng 210C. M c tnh cht tng t nh du nhng tn ti th rn
210C, v vy tnh lan rng ca m b gii hn.

Du v m

thc vt

ng vt

Cc glycerid

Khong

cc ru v cc

Tng hp v bn tng hp

Hydrocarbon

Cc este

Cc silicon

Este nonglycerin

Sp l cht rn 210C, tan trong du, khng tan trong nc v to lp mng

chng nc. Mt s loi sp c s dng lm cc cht nh ha, tr nh ha,
chng l cc cht rt d gy lng.

Sp

Thc vt

ng vt

Khong

Tng hp v bn
Tng hp

Cc glycerid
Cc este khng glycerin

Ru acid bo,
este nonglyceride

Hydrocarbon Cc este Cc
silicon

11.1.1 Du v m
Ha m phm thng quan tm n nhng tnh cht sau y ca du m:
Cht lng c bay hi thp nhit phng v khng tan trong nc .

 C cm gic nhn khi c gia cc ngn tay, sua khi s dng chng li
mt lp mng nht trn da v tc.
Lan ta d dng trn da v li mt lp mng k nc trn da.
C th c c nh ha vi nc khi c mt mt cht nh ha thch hp.
C kh nng lm dung mi tt, v th c th c dng lm dung mi cho
cc cht hu c khc trng thi c nh ha, nhm mc ch iu tr hay to
cc hiu qu mong mun khc.
C tnh cht lm mm, chng ngn s kh da bng cch duy tr hm lng
nc ca da, to cho da s mm mi.
Nguyn liu du m tha mn su tnh cht trn c mch carbon di v
thng khng phn nhnh.
1. Dn xut t du m
Du m l mt hn hp cc hn hp hydrocarbon c mu nu en v mi
mnh.Trong du m, ngoi hydrocarbon cn c cc hp cht cha lu hunh,
nit nhng cht ny c mi kh chu v gy kh khn cho vic tinh ch du
m.
Phn sn phm s dng t du m dng trong m phm cn gi l du
trng. Du trng k thut dng trong m phm c t trng 0,84 0,88; 60/60 0F,
phm vi nhit si t 310 4100F.
Thnh phn du trng: du trng l mt hn hp phc tp ca cc loi
hydrocarbon khc nhau, chng l cc hp cht polymethylen a vng hay cc
vng no ni vi cng thc chung (CH2)n.

Ngoi ra, du trng c cha mt lng nh parafin mch di, cc naphten, h

a vng cha nhn thm.

Trong h vng naphten gn vi nhnh paraffin, nhm CH < l ni d b oxi

ha, khi tip xc vi khng kh, c bt l khi c nh sng mt tri, c th lm
bin i mu hay gy mi kh chu.
2. Hydrocarbon c ngun gc ng vt
Cht tiu biu l squalene (C30H50) ngun chnh l t du gan c mp. Phn t
squalene c 6 nhnh metyl v c 6 lin kt i, cc lin kt ny rt d b oxy ha
v polyme ha. Squalene c mi c kh chu v khng c s dng nhiu trong
m phm.
Squalene c th c biu din nh sau:

Tuy nhin, khi hydro ha du gan c mp trc khi chng ct ta thu c

hydrocarbon no squalan. Squalan c dng lm cht lm mm v cht bi trn
da, n d b nh ha v tng hp vi phn ln cc cu t ca m phm.
3. Du silicon l cc cht tng hp c cng thc sau:

Mch phn t silicon c th ko di. Du silicon trng thi lng, khng

mu, trong nh nc, c sc cng b mt thp. Chng khng b oxy ha khi b
t nng trong khng kh n nhit 150 0C, chy khi t chy trn 3200C, b
ph hy bi acid v kim mnh. Silicon c nht t thay i theo nhit .
Du silicon c s dng trong kem stearat ( nh kem tan) to lp mng
trn da, a vo kem nh rng to lp mng k nc ngn nga dnh thc n.
4. Ru cao phn t
Ru cao phn t l cc ru c mch cacbon di k nc. Ru cao phn t
ng vi cc acid to ester.
CH2OH + CH3COOH -CH2OCOCH3 +H2O
CH2OH + HOSO2OH -CH2OSO2OH + H2O
Cc ester ca ru cao phn t vi acid sulfuric c th c c trung ha
bng lim to mui alkyl sulfate, mui ny c s dng lm cht HBM

( thng s dng nhm ru c mch cacbon t 12 18). Trong sn xut thng

dng acid chlorsulfonic:
CH2OH + ClSO2OH CH2OSO2OH + HCl
Cc ru bo c mch cacbon cha 18 nguyn t C ( no hoc khng no)
c s dng trong m phm.
Oleylacol tn ti dng t do hay ester, c trong du u ca ng vt c
v, ngun chnh l c nh tng. Sn phm thng mi l mt cht lng mu vng
ti, ch s iod 80 85, khng tan trong nc.
CH3(CH2)7 CH=CH(CH2)7 CH2OH
Linoleyl alcol c sn xut t du v m c ngun gc ng vt v thc
vt. Tnh cht tng t nh oleyl alcol.
CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH3(CH2)7CH2OH
Linolenyl alcolc hai ni i ging vi linoleyl alcol v c tnh cht tng
t.
CH3(CH2CH=CH2)3CH2(CH2)6CH2OH
5. Glyceride phn ng vi acid to ra cc mono, i hay tri ester. Cc
tryglyceride ca glyceride v cc acid bo c nhiu v chim phn ln trong
cc loi du m t nhin.
Tnh cht l ha ca cc glyceride c xc nh bi cu trc v cu trc ca
cc acid bo trong phn t. Cc acid cha t 10C tr ln tng i kh bay hi,
i khi c mi mnh v c trng.
C du c ngun gc t ng vt di nc c nhiu loi acid bo khc nhau
hn du m ng vt trn cn v thc vt, chng u c hm lng acid bo
khng no cao. ng vt nc ngt v thc vt ch yu cha cc acid khng no
C16 v C18 v mt lng nh cc acid khng no C20 v C22. Tri li, du thc vt
bin cha mt lng ln cc acid bo khng no C20 v C 22, vi mt lng nh
hn cc acid khng no C16 v C18.
Du c khng th dng trc tip trong m phm do c mi mnh v khuynh
hng b oxy ha. Du c c x l thu c cc cu t c gi tr trong
ngnh m phm nh squalene, oley alcol, spermaceti v vitamin A...
Acid bo no: cng thc chung CnH2nO2 vi n l s chn, cc acid bo quan
trng nht l:
Acid bo khng no
Acid cha mt ni i
Acid oleic:CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH, c tm thy trong tt c du
v m, m.p 40C; b.p 2860C ( 100mm Hg); ch s iod 90. Rt kh tch ra trng
thi tinh khit.

 Acid erucic:CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)11COOH, c trong cc glycerid ca du

ci, du mm ht m tc, mm ht qu trc... m.p 33,8 0C; b.p 314,4( 100mm
Hg) ; ch s iod 75.
Acid cha mt ni i vafnhoms hydroxyl
Acid ricinoleic: CH3(CH2)5CH(OH)CH2=CH(CH2)7COOH
X phng, sodium ricinoleate c tnh cht st trng cng nh tnh cht t ra, m.p
5,50C; b.p 2450C ( 10mm Hg); ch s iod 85.
Acid c mt vng v mt ni i: CnH2n-4 O2
Acid hydrocarpic c trong du hydrocarpus. Cc tinh th khng mu khi mi
iu ch, mu sm dn v nhit nng chy gim so vi ban u l 59600C.
Acid Chaul moogric:
Acid chaul moogric c trong du chaulmoogric, m.p 68,5 0C; b.p 247: 2480C
( 20mmHg); ch s iod 90,5. N cng sm dn v b gim nhit nng chy.
Acid c hai ni i:CnH2n-4O2
Acid linoleic l cht tiu biu nht trong nhm ny, c nhiu cc glycerid t
nhinnh trong ht cy thuc phin v du lanh, du ng, du u nnh; m.p
120C; ch s iod 181.1.
CH3(CH2)4CH=CH-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)7COOH
Acid c ba ni i:CnH2n-6O2
Acid linolenic c trong nhiu glycend t nhin: du u nnh, du ht cy
thuc phin, du lanh... ...; b.p 230: 2320C ( 17mmHg).
CH3(CH2-CH=CH)3CH2(CH2)6COOH
Cc acid bo khng bo ha khc
Mt s acid bo khng bo ha c trong du dn xut t ng vt di nc
nh acid clupanodonic C22H34O2, n l mt du c mi mnh, ng rn -78 0C,
si 2360C 5mmHg. Acid clupanodonic rt d b oxy ha khi tip xc vi
khng kh.
6. Du, m, sp tng hp
Acid bo mch di v cc ru mch di t do c th thu trc tip t nguyn
liu t nhin, chng c dn tng hp cc ester, bng cc phn ng gia ru
v acid mch ngn. V d khi acid palmitic phn ng vi methyl alcol khi c mt
acid hydrochloric, sau lng, sn phm methyl palmital s tch ra nm lp
di.
Ester ca ru thp phn t c th to ra trc tip t cc glyceride bng cc
pahnr ng ru phn. Cc metyl ester ca hn hp acid lauric, myristic, palmitic
c th c iu ch trong thng mi bng phn ng ca methyl alcol vi du
ht qu c hay du da vi xc tc acid hoc bazo.
Methyl ester c gi tr thng mi cao v c nhit si thp hn cc acid
bo tng ng v c th tch ra khi hn hp cc acid bo. T methyl ester,

ngi ta c th tng hp c cc acid bo hoc ru bo. Acid bo cng c

dng rng ri trong vic sn xut cc alcylolamid hoc iu ch cc glyceride
khng c trong t nhin nh glyceryl monostearat (C17H35OCOCH2-CH2-CHOHCH2OH), mt cht tr nh ha.
Cc triglyceride cng c th tng hp bng cch acetyl ha glyceryl
monostearate sn xut du, m sp tng hp.

11.1.2. Sp
Sp l cc cht rn khng tan trong nc, tn ti dnagj tinh th hay v
nh hnh. Sp c nhiu loi v thng l hn hp nh sp ong ch yu l ester
nhng cha 1113% hydrocarbon v khong 13% acid bo t do.
1. Tnh cht: sp dng cho m phm c cc tnh cht sau:
To lp mng chng nc nh c mch cacbon di k nc.
Tan trong du, lm tng nhit nng chy ca lp mng du trn da, lm
tng kh nng lm mm da ca du.
Mt s trng hp c s dng lm tc nhn nh ha hay tr nh nh ha.
Thng thng lm tc nhn lng v trong nhiu trng hp ci thin mn
v cu trc ca kem nh thng.
To bng trong cc sn phm m phm nh son mi.
2. Mt s sp thng dng trong m phm
Sp paraffin thu t du m, gm ch yu cc hydrocarbon no (C 20-C35), m.p
35750C.
Cc acid bo : cc acid rn nhit phng v c th s dng nh sp.
Cetyl alcol: CH3(CH2)14 CH2OH, c tnh cht sp, lm cht tr nh ha, tn
ti dng t do cng nhu dng ester trong spermaceti, m.p 47 490C.
Steary alcol: CH3(CH2)16CH2OH; m.p 57590C, c tnh cht gn ging cetyl
alcohol, i khi trong qu trnh s dng hai ru c trn li vi nhau.
Lanolin: cht rn hi dnh, mu vng ti. Lanolin l hn hp cc ester trung
tnh v ru t do, bao gm c cholesterol, c th lm tc nhn nh ha, m.p
31 410C.
Spermaceti thu c t c nh tang, cha ch yu cetyl palmitate, m.p 450C.
Sp ong l mt hn hp cc ester cetyl hoc myrcyl vi gc myristate hoc
palmitate v mt vi acid bo t do, ru t do v cc hydrocarbon, m.p
62640C, c th dng lm cht nh ha rt hiu qu.
Sp carnauba l sp l c, cng v gin, vng sng hay xanh xm vi
bng cao, m.p 840C.
Cng nh du v m, vic sn xut cc sp c nhiu tin b, c bit l
trong k thut polymer, nhiu loi sp tng hp c s dng thay th
nguyn liu t nhin.

11.2 CHT HOT NG B MT

Hin tng c bn ca cht hot ng b mt l hp ph, n c thdn n
hai hiu ng hon ton khc nhau.
Lm gim mt hay nhiu sc cng b mt phn gii trong h thng.
Bn ha mt hay nhiu mt phn gii bng s to thnh cc lp b hp ph.
Mt tc nhn hot ng b mt l mt vt liu c tnh cht lm thay i
nng lng b mt m n tip xc. S gim nng lng b mt c th d quan
st thy trong s to bt, s lan rng mt cht lng trn mt cht rn, s phn
tn cc ht rn trong mi trng lng v to s huyn ph.
Vic s dng cht hot ng b mt trong m phm c 5 lnh vc chnh ty
thuc vo tnh cht ca chng:
Ty ra
Lm t khi cn c s tip xc tt gia dung dch v i tng
To bt
Nh ha trong cc sn phm, s to thnh v bn ca nh tng l quyt
nh, v d trong kem da v tc.
Lm tan khi cn a vo sn phm cu t khng tan, v d nh a hng
liu.

11.2.1 Phn loi cht hot ng b mt

Tt c cc cht hot ng b mt thng thng c mt im chung v cu
trc: phn t c hai phn, mt phn k nc v mt phn a nc.
Phn k nc thng l cc mch hay vng hydrocarbon hay hn hp ca c
hai, phn a nc thng l cc nhm phn cc nh cc nhm carboxylic,
sulfate, sulfonate, hay trong cc cht hot ng b mt khng ion, n n l mt
s nhm hydroxyl hay ether. Tnh cht kp ny ca cc phn t cho php n hp
th mt phn cch v iu ny gii thch cho tnh cht ca chng.
C th phn loi cht hot ng b mt theo nhiu cch, nhng c l hp l
nht l phn loi theo tnh cht ion, khi s c bn loi:
Cht hot ng b mt anion l cc cht m phn t ca chng trong nc
c ion hot ng b mt tch in m, v d nh C17H33C00-Na+( natri oleate).
Cht hot ng b mt cation: cc ion hot ng b mt trong dung dch tch
in dng.
Cht hot ng b mt khng ion: phn a nc thng cu to t v s cc
nhm phn cc, v d nhm hydroxyl hay lin kt ether trong dy ethylene
oxide. Cng nhng lin kt c dng tng tnh a nc trong mt s cht
hot ng b mt anion, v d nh cc alkyl ether sulfate R(OCH 2CH2)n OSO3M+.

 Cht hot ng b mt lng tnh c kh nng to cc ion hot ng b mt

tch in dng ln m.
11.2.2 Tnh cht ca cht hot ng b mt
S thay i v tnh cht b mt khi nng ca mt dung dch nc ca
cht hot ng b mt tng ln l tng ln l mt c im ca phn ln cc
phn t hot ng b mt. V d khi nng tng, sc cng b mt ca dung
dch sodium dodecyl sulfate (C12H25OSO3Na) gim nhanh cng vi nhng s
thay i tng ng v cc tnh cht vt l nh sc cng gia cc b mt, dn
in mt nng no c mt s gin on xy ra, sc cng b mt v
cc tnh cht khc khng gim xung na. nng c s gin on ny
xy ra c gi l nng mixen ti hn CMC

Vic khm ph ra s gin on ny v nguyn nhn ca n ln u tin

c gii thch bi Mc Bain vo nhng nm 1920. Mc Bain cho rng sc cng
b mt gim khi nng ca cc ion n tang(v d nh C 12H25OSO3-) n gi
tr CMC th cc ion n bt u lin kt thnh mt nh m ng gi l mixen.
Cc mixen ny c th dng hnh cu, vi kch thc phn t, trong cc ui
k nc ca cc ion nh hng theo tm qu cu, trong khi phn u a nc
li b mt ngoi. V vy, mt mixen hnh cu ca sodium dodecyl sulphate s
gm mt nhm cc ui C12H35- hng v phi tm qu cu cn u OSO 3-
mt ngoi.Thc t cc mixen khng c tnh cht ha tan cc cht hu c khng
tan trong nc. hin tng ny gi l s lm tan, hin tng ny l mt trong
nhng c tnh quan trng ca cht hot ng b mt i vi ha m phm.
Khi sc cng b mt gim, tnh to bt v thm t thng tng.Sc cng
b mt gim thng i i vi s gim sc cng gia cc b mt m n cho tnh
nh ha v ty ra tt hn. nng cao hn CMC, tt c cc cht hot ng
b mt u c tnh lm tan ra.
1. Cc cht hot ngb mt anion

Nhm anion lin kt lin kt trc tip vi phn k nc

Fatty acid soap: RCOOM+
Alkyl sulfate: ROSO3M+
Alkyl sulfonate:RSO3M+
Alkyl aryl sulfonate:RC6H4SO3M+
RCH(SO3M+)COOM

Secondary alkyl sulfate:RCH(OSO3)RM+

Alkyl phosphate: ROPO32(M+)2

Nhm anion lin kt qua in kt ester
Mono glyceride sulfate: RCOOCH2CHOHCH2OSO3M+
Dialkyl sulfosuccinate (R thng C6- C10)

Polyethylene glycol ester sulfate: RCO(OCH2CH2)nOSO3M+

Isothionate: RCOOCH2CH2SO3M+
Nhm anion c ni qua lin kt ete

Alkyl ether sulfate: R(OCH2CH2)nOSO3M+

Phenol ether sulfate RC6H4(OCH2CH2)nOSO3M+

Alkyl ether carboxylateR(OCH2CH2)nOCH2COOM+

Nhm anion c ni qua lin kt amid

Alkanolamide sulfate: RCONHCH2CH2OSO3M+

TaurineRCONHCH2CH2SO3M+

Sarcosinate: RCON(CH3)CH2COOM+
Nhm anion c ni qua lin kt amidin
Imidazole sulfate

2. Cc cht hot ng b mt cation

Cc mui anion bc 4 trong nito ni trc tip vi nhm k nc
Mui alkyl trimethyl amonium
Mui dialkyl dimethyl amonium
Mui alkyl benzyl dimethyl amonium
Mui ethoxylated alkyl dimethyl amonium
Nhm cation in ly

Quaternized amides of ethyl diamine

Quaternized amides of polyethylenamine
Nhm cation t trong vng
Mui alkyl piridinium

Mui alkyl morpholinium

Cht hot ng b mt cation khng nit

Mui sulfonium
Mui phosphonium
Cht hot ng b mt dicationic
Mui quaternized diamine
Alkanol amides
Fatty acid alkanol amid: RCONHCH2CH2OH
Fatty acid dialkanol amid: RCON(CH2CH2OH)2
Cc dn xut poly ethylene glycol
Alkyl poly glycol ether: R(OCH2CH2)nOH
Alkyl aryl poly glycol etherRC6H4(OCH2CH2)nOH
Poly glycol esterRCO(OCH2CH2)nOH
Thio etherRS(CH2CH2O)nH
Cc dn xut poly ethylene imin
Alkyl poly ethylene imin: R(NHCH2CH2)nNH2
Poly ethylene imin amidRCONH(CH2CH2NH)nN
3. Cht hot ng b mt khng ion

Alkylamino acid

Betaine
Acylamino acid

Acyl peptid

Chn la v s dng cht hot ng b mt ( HDBM )

1. Ty ra l mt qu trnh phc tp lin quan n vic thm t i tng
( tc hay da ). Nu cc cht cn loi l dng rn dnh m, qu trnh ty ra
lin quan n s nh tng ha cc cht du c loi i v bn ha nh
tng.
Vi nhu cu lm sch da, x phng vn l mt cht ty ra rt tt.Theo thi
quen, ngi ta thng i hi bt nhiu d n khng c chc nng g, kh
nng to bt ca x phng c th tng d dng bng cch thm vo cc acid
bo mch di.
Vic lm sch tc phc tp hn v trong qu trnh lm sch tc, th tch bt c mt
vai tr no . Sodium laurul ether sulphate ( SLES ) l mt cu t thng dng ca
x phng gi u v s to bt thng c thm bng cch cho thm cc
alkanolamide. Cc cht HBM lng tnh c dng cho cc x phng gi u
chuyn bit.
2. Thm t: Tt c cc tc nhn HBM u c mt s tnh cht lm t.
Trong m phm, ngi ta thng s dng cc alkyl sulphat mch ngn ( C12), hoc alkyl ether sulphat.
3. To bt: Nh ni trn, to th tch bt ln v bn, ngi ta thng
s dng SLES tng cng vi cc alkanolamide.
4. Nh ha: Mt tc nhn nh ha tt thng di hi phn k nc hi di hn
cc tc nhn t. Hin nay x phng vn cn c s dng lm tc nhn nh
ha trong m phm do d iu ch. Nu mt acid bo c a vo pha
nc, khi cc nh tng bn du trong nc d dng hnh thnh khi trn
ln. Nh tng nc trong du nh trong mt s kem tc thng c b
ha bng x phng cha kali.
Cc cht HBM khng ion cng c gi tr trong nh tng.
5. Lm tan: Tt c cc cht HBM trn nng CMC u c tnh cht ha tan.
iu ny quan trng khi cn phi kt hp hng liu hu c hay mt cht
hu c khng tan vo sn phm, v d nh x phng gi u. X phng,
alkyl ether sulfate v phn ln l cc cht HBM c s dng cho mc
ch ny, tuy nhin cn c s dng nng cao cho qu trnh lm tan
tt.
Cc tnh cht khc ca cht hot ng b mt
Ngoi nhng tnh cht ni trn, mt s cht HBM c nhng tnh cht
ring bit nh sau:

- Tt c cc cht HBM cation hp th mnh trn protein v cc i tng

khc tch in m, v th chng c dng ci thin tnh cht b mt ca
cc i tng, v d lam tng cm gic bng v mt tc. Cc hp cht
cation c kh nng dit khun v c th c s dng trong cc x phng,
gi u t bit v nc sc ming.
Sodium N-lauroyl sarcoosinat c kh nng c ch enzym hexokinasc
( enzyme c lin quan n qu trnh phn hy ng trong ming ) c s
dng trong kem nh rng.
- Khng nn s dng hn hp cc cht HBM cation v anion do chng c
th to thnh cc mui cation anion khng tan, ngay c cht HBM anion
cng c nh hng ln nhau. V d, bt sinh ra bi SLES c th d dng b
ph v bi x phng, tnh cht ny c ng dng trong cc cng thc cht
ty ra to bt thp.
CHT GI M
Cht gi m l cc vt liu ht m c tnh cht ht hi nc t khng kh m
cho n khi t c cn bng. Kh nng ht m ph thuc tnh cht lm n
v m tng i ca khng kh xung quanh. Cht gi m c thm vo
cc kem m phm, c bit l loi m phm du trong nc, trnh cc
kem b kh khi tip xc vi khng kh. Tuy nhin, tnh cht ca lp mng
ht m vi cht gy m tn ti trn b mt da khi s dng sn phm c th l
mt nhn t quan trng nh hng ln kt cu v tnh trng ca da.
S mt nc ca sn phm
Vic mt sn phm m phm b kh c h xy ra by k lc no, t khi sn
xut n lc s dng ht sn phm.Qa trnh ny chu tc ng ca nhit ,
mc tip xc v m tng i ca khng kh. Nc trong sn phm
bc hi ti khi p sut hi nc ca sn phm bng vi p sut hi nc
trong khng kh xung quanh.
c tnh ca bao b ng mt vai tr quan trng trong vic ngn nga kh
sn phm, sn phm s c bo v tt khi bao b c ng kn hiu qu,
cht lm m t quan trng hn v ch c mt khng gian nh pha trn b bo
ha hi nc.
i vi sn phm nh tng, kh sn phm ph thuc ch yu vo loi
nh tng.Nh tng nc trong du mt nc chm hn nhiu so vi nh
tng du trong nc.Cc loi kem nh tng du trong nc rt kh duy tr
trng thi cn mi nguyn ngay c khi bao b rt kn.

Cht gi m chc chn khng loi tr hon ton s kh sn phm. Nng

ca cht lm m trong pha nc ca mt sn phm in hnh thng qu
thp c th t c cn bng vi m khng kh trung bnh. Cht gi
m ch c th lm gi tc mt nc vo khng kh, do bao gi knh l
cch bo v tt nht.
Tnh cht ca cht gi m l tng
Sn phm phi ht m t khng kh v duy tr n iu kin m thng
thng.
Hm lng nc t thay i theo m tng i
Cht lm m c nht thp, d trn vo sn phm, tuy nhin cht c
nht cao gip ngn nga s tch ri nh tng.
Cht lm m nn tng hp vi nhiu vt liu, c tnh cht dung mi hay
ha tan.
Mu, mi, v thch hp.
Khng c v khng kch thch.
Khng gy n mn i vi vt liu bao gi.
Khng bay hi, khng ng rn hay kt tinh nhit thng thng.
Trung tnh trong cc phn ng.
Khng t tin.
Cc loi cht lm m
C ba loi cht lm m: v c, c kim, v hu c.
Cht lm m v c: CaCl2 l in hnh, kh hiu qu nhng gy n mn v
tnh tng hp khng cao, ch s dng gii hn trong sn phm m phm.
Cht lm m c kim ( kim loi hu c ): cht chnh l natri lactat, cht
ny c tnh ht m cao hn glyceriin, nhng khng tng hp vi mt s vt
liu th, c th gy n mn, c v r rt v c th bin mu. Cc loi cht
lm m c kim khng c s dng rng ri trong m phm, tuy nhin c
dng trong kem da v n khng c v khng gy vim da, pH trong sn
phm c th c iu chnh bng cch trn vi acid lactic, cng l mt cht
ht m kh tt. dung dch m c th t Ph 7,1

7,2 t l 5% natri

lactate/ acid lactic.

Cht lm m hu c c s dng rng ri nht, cc cht lm m hu c l
cc ru a chc, cc ester v ete ca chng nh ethylen glycol, glycerin
( trihydroxy propan ), sorbiol ( hexanhydroxy henxan ).
Ru a chc c th c to ra bng cch cng ethylene oxide vo n v
c bn ( ethylen glycol ) hay vo chnh n. Cc lin kt ete lm tng tnh

cht ht m, tnh cht ny ph thuc ch yu vo t l nhm OH v mt s

nguyn t cacbon.
Cc hp cht thng c s dng nht cho mc ch ht m trong sn
phm m phm l: ethylen glycol; propylen glycol; glycerol; sorbitol;
polyethylene glycol.
Yu t an ton khi s dng cht gi m
Ba cht lm m c s dng rng ri trong cng nghip m phm l
glycerin, sorbitol v propylen glycol do khng c vi da. Ethylen glycol
khng c xem l an ton do b oxy ha cho acid oxalic v bt k s hp
ph no qua da cng c th dn n si thn. glycerin b t vn v
kh nng c th ht nc t da.
11.4 CHT ST TRNG
Mt t l ln sn phm m phm dng cho cc mc ch v snh thng
thng c cha cht st trng, t x phng, du gi u cho n nc sc
ra ming v kem nh rng.
Cc tc nhn dit khun dng trong m phm ch yu gim bt cc tnh
trng nh hi ming, mi c th, mn trng c. Mc d c mt s im
tng ng, cc sn phm cha thuc cha tr cc tnh trng bnh l, do
thuc cha tr c th cha cht khng sinh v cc tc nhn khc khng thch
hp cho mc ch v sinh.
Vic s dng cc cht st trng trong sn phm m phm khc vi vic s
dng cc cht bo qun. Cht st trng c kh nng chng li cc vi sinh vt
trn da, u hay trong ming cn cht bo qun l duy tr sn phm
lun iu kin tt.
11.4.1 H vi sinh vt trn c th ngi
H vi sinh vt trn b mt c th bao gm hai nhm ring bit: h thng
trc v tm thi. Cc vi sinh vt thng trc sinh trng nhanh trn b mt
da, nh acetobacter, micrococi, corynebacteria gram+, nhng ni m nh
nch v hng c th c mt cc vi khun gram- nh acinetobacter.
Lng vi khun thay i ng k trn cc phn khc nhau ca c th: tc,
nch, hng. Phn ln cc vi sinh vt thng trc c tm thy trn b mt
da nhng khong 10- 20% tp trung nang lng, tuyn b nhn nhng
ni kh loi chng. Thng vic ra da khng hiu qu lm trong vic loi
i cc vi sinh vt thng trc ( v iu ch c th t c bng cch
dng cc cht dit khun). Tuy nhin phn ln cc vi sinh vt thng trc c
c tnh thp.

Cc vng ca c th ( ch yu l tay ) cng nh cha cc h vi sinh vt tm

thi nhim t mi trng. H sinh vt ny gm nhiu loi khc nhau, k c
cc loi gy bnh. Tuy nhin, thng thng cc vi sinh tm thi ch tn ti
trong khong thi gian tng i ngn do khng m v c s hin
din cc cht khng khun nh cc acid bo trn b mt da. Khc vi cc
sinh vt thng trc, cc sinh vt ny ch gn lng lo vi da v c th b
loi i phn ln bng cch tm ra.
11.4.2 Tnh hiu qu ca cc tc nhn dit khun
Tnh hiu qu ca cc sn phm st trng khng ch ph thuc vo tnh cht
dit khun m cn ty thuc vo bn cht ca cng thc sn phm, c th l
x phng thi, nh tng, x phng lng hay cch ty ra Vic s dng
chlorhexidine to ra hiu qu nhanh chng trong vic loi cc sinh vt trn
da, trong khi cc hp cht phenol nh hexachlorophene v irgasan 300 ch
c hiu qu tt sau thi gian s dng lu di.
iu cn thit i vi cc sn phm m phm c tnh st trng l mc ch
s dng: loi cc sinh vt thng trc hay tm thi, loi nhanh chng hay
lu di Cc sn phm dng cho tm ra thng thng gip c th chng
li cc vi khun thng trc v tm thi, trong khi nhng sn phm dng
trong vic ra tay lin quan n toalet, v sinh thc phm, cm nm tr em
mi sinh, tip xc ngi bnh cn c kh nng loi i cc sinh vt tm thi
trn da ngn nga bnh truyn nhim.
11.4.3 Cc cht st trng thng thng
1. Phenol v cresol
Mt s ln cc cht dn xut ca phenol v cresol c tnh dit khun, cc
hp cht ny dit khun gram+ mnh hn gram-, chng c s dng vi
nng 0,1-5%. Tuy nhin, nhiu hp cht tan t trong nc nn cn phi
dng x phng hay cc cht hot ng b mt t nng cho hot
ng ti u. D c tnh c th kh thp, nhiu phelic gy kch thch
nng cao, do vy cc hp cht ny khng c s dng nhiu trong
m phm v c thay th bng cc bisphenol, cc salicyanilide v
carbanilide.
2. Bisphenol
Trong rt nhiu cc cht s st trng phenol c tng hp, cc
phenol c halogen ha nm trong s cht c hot tnh mnh nht.
nhiu dn xut diphenol c halogen ha s dng rng ri trong m
phm, c bit c kh nng tng hp vi x phng nh

hexachlorophene, dichlorophene, bithionol v irgasan DP 300. Cng nh

cc phenolic, cc hp cht ny thng hiu qu i vi vi khun gram+
hn cc vi khun gram- v nm. chng t tan trong nc, v vy cc sn
phm dung dch cn cha cc cht hot ng b mt t nng cn
thit. nng thng c s dng l t 0,3 2%. Tt c cc hp cht
ny khng tng hp vi cc cht hot b mt cation,
hexachlorophene khng tng hp vi cc hp cht hot ng b mt
anion v khng ion.

3. Cng thc mt s hp cht st trng tng hp vi cc hp cht anion

Hexachlorophene dng trong x phng dng thi, x phng lng v cc
nh tng ty ra vi nng 2-3%, hiu qu gii hn ln u s
dng.hiu qu nhanh ca mt s sn phm x phng lng cha 3%
hexancholrophene c th c tng ln bng cch thm vo 0,3%
chlorocresol.
Mt bt li quan trng khi s dng hexachlorophene l tnh hot ng
chn lc ca n i vi vi sinh vt gram+ dn n hin tng cc vi sinh
vt gram- c th pht trin trong sn phm ny.

Vic s dng rng ri hexachlorophene trong sn phm m phm lm

tng s lo s v nguy c tch t khng mong mun trong c th. Vo
thng 9 nm 1912, s nhim c hng lot do dng hexanchlorophene
trong mt loi bt cho tr em lin quan n mt s ci cht ca tr s
sinh ti Php, dn n vic c quan th phm v thuc Hoa K loan bo
hn ch vic s dng hexachorophe, sau l quy nh dng
hexachorophene ti nng 0,1% lm cht bo qun.