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Vernacular Architecture ~> Bayanihan

The word Vernacular was derived from


vernaculus which means native.
Native science of building
Informal Building of Structures through
traditional building methods by local
builders without using the services of a
professional architect. It is the most
widespread form of building.
The builders of this structures are
unschooled in formal architectural
design and their work reflects the rich
diversity of their climate, locally
available material and the intricate
variation in social custom and
craftsman.
Vernacular architecture, the simplest form of addressing human needs, is
seemingly forgotten in modern architecture. However, due to recent rises in
energy costs, the trend has sensibly swung the other way. Architects are
embracing regionalism and cultural building traditions, given that these
structures have proven to be energy efficient and altogether sustainable. In
this time of rapid technological advancement and urbanization, there is still
much to be learned from the traditional knowledge of vernacular
construction. These low-tech methods of creating housing which is perfectly
adapted to its locale are brilliant, for the reason that these are the principles
which are more often ignored by prevailing architects.
Vernacular architecture originated when mankind was forced to make use of
the natural resources around
him, and provide himself
shelter and comfort which is
responsive to the climate, a
shield from the elements. It is a
pure reaction to an individual
persons or societys building
needs, and has allowed man,
even before the architect, to
construct shelter according to
his circumstance. Such simple
traditions have long been
regarded as backward, and have been replaced by half-digested, largely
inappropriate architectural values.
The humanistic desire to be culturally connected to ones surroundings is
reflected in a harmonious architecture, a typology which can be identified
with a specific region. This sociologic facet of architecture is present in a
material, a color scheme, an architectural genre, a spatial language or form

that carries through the urban framework. The way human settlements are
structured in modernity has been vastly unsystematic; current architecture
exists on a singular basis, unfocused on the connectivity of a community as a
whole.
Vernacular architecture
adheres to basic green
architectural principles of
energy efficiency and utilizing
materials and resources in
close proximity to the site.
These structures capitalize on
the native knowledge of how
buildings can be effectively
designed as well as how to
take advantage of local
materials and resources. Even
in an age where materials are
available well beyond our region, it is essential to take into account the
embodied energy lost in the transportation of these goods to the
construction site.
The effectiveness of climate responsive architecture is evident over the
course of its life, in lessened costs of utilities and maintenance. A poorly
designed structure which doesnt consider environmental or vernacular
factors can ultimately cost the occupant in addition to the environment
more in resources than a properly designed building. For instance, a
structure with large windows on the south faade in a hot, arid climate would
lose most of its air conditioning efforts to the pervading sun, ultimately
increasing the cost of energy. By applying vernacular strategies to modern
design, a structure can ideally achieve net zero energy use, and be a wholly
self-sufficient building.

If anything is to be taken
from vernacular
architecture, it provides a
vital connection between
humans and the
environment. It reestablishes us in our
particular part of the world
and forces us to think in
terms of pure survival
architecture before the
architect. These structures
present a climateresponsive approach to
dwelling and are natural and
resource conscious solutions to a regional housing need. The benefits of
vernacular architecture have been realized throughout the large part of
history, diminished during the modern era, and are now making a return
among green architecture and architects. In order to progress in the future of
architecture and sustainable building, we must first gain knowledge of the
past and employ these strategies as a well-balanced, methodical whole to
achieve optimum energy efficiency.

Climate
Hot and Dry

Flat, sandy, rocky ground with spares vegetation of cacti thorny


bushes.
Water level is very low
The diurnal variation in temperature is quite high more than 10 C.
The climate is dry because relative humidity is generally very low.
The hot and dry regions receives less rainfall- the annual precipitation
being less than 500mm.
Hot winds during summer and sand storms are also seen.
The absorbed radiation are dissipated to atmosphere at night.
Due too low water level and spares vegetation the houses re made
using twigs, mud, clay, stone.
The air is cool at night.

Warm and Humid

The warm and humid zone covers the coastal region.


The high humidity encourages abundant vegetation.
The main design criteria in warm and humid region are to reduce heat
gained by providing shading.
The relative humidity is high about 70% - 90% in year.

Moderate

The temperate climate has mild to warm summers and cool winters.
The need for winter home heating is greater than the need for summer
cooling.
It is a relatively comfortable climate, especially near the coast, where
summers are cooler and winters warmer than further inland.
In the mountains of the Great Dividing Range, winters are cold and
summers are pleasantly mild.
Few opening on external side other than door.
Cooking and sleeping outdoors in summer were as inside in winter.

DISASTER RESILIENCY
1. Four-sided slope roof.
According to Gabitan, the best structure for the roof of a house especially during storms is a
four-sided slope like an elongated pyramid with a rectangular base that lessens wind pressure and
decreases the risk of structural destruction over time.
Canopies or eaves should also be minimized or if possible avoided. Eaves are basically the
edges of the roof or overhangs that ensure no water drips inside when it rains.
[It] makes the whole house more prone to the effects of the storm especially the strong wind. The
strong lift of the wind can strip the roof away so a narrower canopy is preferred, but better if there
is no overhang altogether, Gabitan explained.
2. Storm shutters, installation.
Most Philippine houses have windows, even in the slums with cheap glass, but the risk is that most
of these materials cannot withstand 200 km/h winds, so the glass breaks and makes those inside
even more vulnerable. This can be easily fixed by installing storm shutters. Gabitan also
recommends the louver-type window frame as it can cover the glass windows to lessen the
pressure during a storm.

Also, during the onslaught of the typhoon, several people perished after being hit by corrugated
iron sheets flying like paper due to the strong winds. This is a construction flaw that could have
been prevented easily with a simple and effective installation process and framing.
The recommended method to attach the roof is to use the old method of strap to attach the main
frame of the house. It makes the grip of the metal roof sheets to the frame stronger, said Gabitan,
adding that using this method instead of the old nail and hammer will be cheaper in the long run.
Metal frames is the way to go, coupled with appropriate installation angles for additional support,
added Louie Baclagon from Habitat for Humanity Philippines.
3. Right materials.
Homes should be also be built using earthquake-resilient materials, aside from typhoon-resilient
ones. Baclagon explained that using the load-bearing design will be perfect for this purpose
because it will be adaptable to the movement of the ground, lessening the potential damage to the
house.
This is echoed by Gabitan saying that this concept, much like the natural dumping effect, is seen
in earth bags. Earth bags are regular sacks usually old rice sacks, filled with sand, gravel or
soil used to build structures.
One material that is very cheap and very easy to use is what we call earth bags. If its properly
utilized, it can be very strong, he noted. It becomes earthquake-resilient because the material
has a natural dumping effect. Even if the ground shakes or moves, the impact is minimized.
He cautioned, however, that whatever materials builders use, when they are not used properly and
effectively, including symmetry and balance, the whole concept will crash down.
4. Location.
Every year, Filipinos brace themselves for floods during the rainy season, so making houses floodresilient is a no-brainer. Elevating homes and putting them on stilts can be an option, but this will
be a band-aid solution because of the risk it poses when an earthquake hits.
The problem with building houses on stilts is that its not necessarily earthquake-resilient except if
additional braces are built. The houses are anchored in soft foundation. For disaster resilience, the
ultimate solution is finding the right location, he explained.
The Philippine government has geohazard maps, but local governments and developers rarely
consult them before pushing through with a development project.

Organic Architecture ~> Building with nature

Once a far-fetched futuristic idea, a living tree building is now not only possible but is
also a reality amazing living architecture that uses growing trees as their structural
supports, twisted, shaped and connected as they make their way skyward.

These so-called Botany Buildings by students from the University of Stuttgart use trees
that meet a series of critical criteria, from fast growth rates to flexibility, adaptability and
durability. The core structures are augmented with artificial elements and can be used to
support everything from rooms and platforms to towers and walkways.

Unlike conventional construction, there are many unique challenges that come with
custom tree building techniques. Connections must be checked and added by hand as
growth progresses, variations in strength have to be accounted for and stability is
paramount these are just some the flip-sides of using living and growing materials.

While there are limitations to this kind of construction, tree buildings have a great deal of
potential for do-it-yourself types who enjoy having a hand in the creation of their own
alternative-style abode.

Connection Methods:
Timber connection:

Bamboo connection:

Joining horizontal with vertical elements

1. Joint with one or two ears. Is used to join bamboo rafters, logs or lumber.

2. Double ear joint. This technique Is used


when the rafters or beams have a larger
diameter than the diameter of the columns.

3. Joint with one or two external


ears.

4. Flap joint. Is used when there is no lashing


wire available. The flap can be secured with
bamboo strips.

5. Fish mouth joint.

Use of dowels and anchors in bamboo joinery

1. Joining bamboo with dowels and lashing. The peg should be placed in the column parallel to the
rafter.

2. Fish mouth joint with pegs.


3. Bamboo joint with wooden anchor. Is also used inverted.

4. Bamboo joint with metal anchor. This technique is used in various positions.

Double and quadruple bamboo rafter support

1. Beams formed by 4 or 6 members. The top row is separated from the bottom with bamboo or wood
slats so that the upper bamboos do not slide over the lower.

2. Central double rafter. It has a wide range of applications in the construction of bridges and structures
for rural facilities.
3. Lateral double rafter. Each of the rafters is secured independently at the side support and each other.
It is often used in the construction of bridges and structures for rural facilities
4. Lateral double rafters. Is often used as a central support for bridge structures or sheds.

Joining and fixation of bamboo poles

1. Joint with double wooden wedge.

3. Cross joint with dowel.

2. Joint with dowels and clamping fitters.

4. Lateral joint with dowel.

5. Corner joint.

Splicing bamboo poles

1. Top splicing.
2. Bevel splicing.
3. Ray splicing
4. Half bamboo splicing.
5. Splicing with internal
union.
6. Splicing with external
union.
7. Telescope splicing.

Do not use green, fresh cut bamboo. Bamboo has to be completely dry before using it in
construction (preferable air dried). During the drying process the bamboo diameter shrinks, so
when bamboo is used in joinery this will result in lose and weak joints after a few weeks.

Do not use bamboo when it is less then 3 years of age. Only use mature bamboo of 4-6 years.

Do not use bamboo infected by insects (powder beetle for example). Bamboo has to be
properly cured with a boron mix immediately after harvesting.

Do not use bamboo that has flourished. Rest assured bamboo only flourishes once in a lifetime
(60-120 years).

Do not use bamboo poles with profound vertical cracks.

Use appropriate cuts and joints when building with bamboo.

Use bamboo with the right diameter and wall thickness for your project.

Do not use conventional wood nails in bamboo joinery, they will cause the bamboo to split.
Instead use nylon, steel or vegetal cord of the appropriate diameter.

When using bamboo as a column make sure that the lower part connecting with the surface ends
with a node. If not the bamboo will splinter when struck (for example to position the column).

When connecting bamboo poles with bolts, make sure to bolt them together in between 2 nodes,
otherwise the bamboo may crush. More about utilizing the nodes below...

Bamboo Has Nodes, Use Them!

In construction, using the bamboo nodes is very important. Bamboo columns or beams need to have a
node at both ends (or as close as possible towards the ends), if not the pressure of a structure on the
joint may crush the bamboo.
Often it isn't possible to find bamboo of the required length with both end nodes in place. When this occurs
you should insert a wooden cylinder of the appropriate diameter or a fitting piece of bamboo with a
node.

Bamboo Cuts

These are the most common cuts to use when making bamboo joints:
one ear / two ear / beveled / flute mouth / fish mouth
As you can see in the illustration below, making basic cuts in bamboo doesn't require expensive or heavy
power tools, just a few traditional hand tools will work fine.

Breaking the nodes of the bamboo with a hatchet is the first step of the flattening process. The second
step is to make one vertical incision in the bamboo pole with a spade so all the nodes are completely
perforated.

Once all the nodes are broken, it is fairly easy to open the bamboo and crush it with a mallet to end up
with a flat bamboo panel.
After the bamboo is flattened it is very important to remove the inner white layer and to clean the
board. This step is important because the inner layer is extremely attractive for insects.

When the bamboo panels are completely cleaned, the next step is to preserve them against future insect
attacks and mold. Curing is done by submerging the bamboo in tanks with a mixture of non-toxic
preservatives and water for several days.
Finally, after all panels are treated, the drying process can start. Air drying of crushed bamboo takes about
1-2 months under roof, or in our case, several hours in a computerized kiln.

Sources:
http://www.slideshare.net/nikxcool/vernacular-architecture-28330912#btnNext
http://www.archdaily.com/155224/vernacular-architecture-and-the-21st-century/

http://dornob.com/organic-architecture-living-tree-building-designsideas/#axzz2pLQLGvGQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:L-Fachwerkwand.png
http://www.guaduabamboo.com/how-to-split-bamboo.html
http://www.guaduabamboo.com/bamboo-joinery.html
http://www.guaduabamboo.com/making-bamboo-cables.html
http://www.guaduabamboo.com/bending-bamboo.html
http://www.guaduabamboo.com/joining-bamboo-basic-principles.html
http://www.guaduabamboo.com/crushed-bamboo.html#How
http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/woodwork-glossary.html

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