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The diagram shows plain knit on the front and on the rear beds of a v-bed machine or the
cylinder and dial of a circular machine.

The notional yarn path shows the yarn crossing over itself as it passes round each needle. This in
fact does not happen in the fabric, as it is a convention to make the drawing easier.

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The diagram shows 1x1 rib knitting on a v-bed or circular machine. Note the change in direction
of the meshing between adjacent wales in the fabric, which creates the torsional forces in the
yarn that cause rib fabrics to contract widthwise when they are removed from the needles.
The notation can be compared with a diagram of rib knitting on the machine where the difference
between the notional yarn path and the true yarn path is clearly visible.

     


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The diagram shows purl knitting on a v-bed machine together with the stitch transfer necessary
to knit it. This structure cannot be knitted on most multi-feed circular machines because they do
not have the facility to transfer stitches back and forwards between the cylinder and the dial.

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The diagram shows the use of a tuck course together with a rib course to create half cardigan.
This structure is thicker and warmer than

1x1 rib and has a distinct front and back appearance.

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The diagram shows full cardigan. This is a much thicker and warmer structure than either 1x1 rib
or half cardigan and has an identical face and back.

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The diagram shows a further rib variant, milano rib, with one rib course followed by two
separate plain courses. This is a smooth faced fabric with identical front and back and subdued
horizontal lines.

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The diagram shows interlock stitch where each row in the fabric is made-up of two courses
knitted on alternate needles.

This can be compared with a view of the needle beds showing the way in which two successive
courses lie in the same fabric row.
ß comparison of the two diagrams reveals the difference between the notional yarn path in the
yarn path diagram and the actual yarn path in the fabric.

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This diagram shows a rib derivative that is normally produced on fine gauge double jersey
machines. Of course it can be knitted on v-bed machines but milano rib is usually knitted instead
as it is produced more quickly.

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The last rib derivative to be shown is pique which uses tuck stitches to generate a subdued
pattern in the fabric. Note the tuck stitch is represented by a yarn path that just touches the needle
but does not enclose it.

      


The technical pattern representation is a development of the Leicester graph paper notation. In
the Leicester notation µ0's and µX's are placed in the squares of graph paper to represent the face
and reverse stitches in a fabric. The technical pattern representation uses different symbols to
represent the elements of the fabric structure. In comparison with the yarn path diagram or
Nottingham notation which shows the interaction between the yarn and individual needles in the
machine, the technical pattern representation shows the position and type of each loop in the
fabric structure.

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:ifferent pattern papers are used depending on the type of fabric being knitted.

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h ëlain and purl knitted structures are represented using pattern paper with equal squares
h Vib and interlock knitted structures are represented using pattern paper with different size
squares

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The diagram (1.15) shows the plain structure knitted on the back needles

This diagram (1.16) shows the plain structure knitted on the front needles

ëlain knitted structure

h ?tructural requirement: all the stitches are meshed in the same direction
h Technical requirement: needles move in a defined needle plane (i.e. one needle system)

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The diagram shows a representation of purl knit.

h ?tructural requirement: stitches of neighbouring courses are meshed in different


directions
h Technical requirement: needles moving in two different needle planes with the knitted
loop transferring (i.e. either two needle systems or a double ended latch needle system)

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This diagram shows 1x1 rib.

h ?tructural requirement: stitches of neighbouring wales are meshed in different directions


h Technical requirement: two sets of needles moving in two different needle planes (i.e.
two needle systems in rib gaiting)

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Interlock knitted structures knit or repeat on four needles

h ?tructural requirement: same as a rib knitted structure but has two interlocking rib knitted
structures
h Technical requirement: needles moving on two different needle planes, with the ability to
select needles to act in two independent groups on each needle plane (i.e. a four needle
system in interlock gaiting)
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h The diagram (1.20) shows half cardigan with the tuck loops appearing in the back bed
squares.
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h This diagram (1.21) shows full cardigan.

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*oth yarn path diagrams and technical pattern representations can be used for the majority of
knit structures that repeat over two-eight needles and two to twelve courses. Jacquard patterns
may repeat over several hundred needles and courses and the use of the yarn path notation in this
case is cumbersome. The use of graph paper notations is a much more efficient way of recording
a jacquard pattern.


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carp knitting is defined as a stitch forming process in which the yarns are supplied to the
knitting zone parallel to the selvedge of the fabric, i.e. in the direction of the wales. In warp
knitting, every knitting needle is supplied with at least one separate yarn. In order to connect the
stitches to form a fabric, the yarns are deflected laterally between the needles. In this manner a
knitting needle often draws the new yarn loop through the knitted loop formed by another end of
yarn in the previous knitting cycle.

ß warp knitted structure is made up of two parts. The first is the stitch itself, which is formed by
wrapping the yarn around the needle and drawing it through the previously knitted loop. This
wrapping of the yarn is called an overlap. The diagram shows the path taken by the eyelet of one
yarn guide travelling through the needle line, making a lateral overlap (shog) and making a
return swing. This movement wraps the yarn around the needle ready for the knock-over
displacement.

The second part of stitch formation is the length of yarn linking together the stitches and this is
termed the underlap, which is formed by the lateral movement of the yarns across the needles.

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