Nhom 12 (Huong Lieu) - Chuyen de Hoa Huu Co - Dhhc5lt

B CNG THNG
TRNG I HC CNG NGHIP TP. H CH MINH

KHOA CNG NGH HA
Mn hc :
CHUYN CHUYN NGNH HA

ti :
MT S NG DNG CA HNG LIU

TRONG I SNG
Ging vin hng dn : Th.s HUNH TH VIT H

Sinh vin thc hin
: Nguyn Tin Ha
Nguyn Th Hiu
Nguyn L Minh
Nguyn Hong Ngc Chu
Nguyn Th Thu Thng
Lp
: DHHC5LT.
Kha
: 2009 - 2011
Tp. H Ch Minh, thng 09 nm 2010.
NHN XT CA GING VIN HNG DN

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TP. H Ch Minh, ngy ______ thng______nm_______
Xc nhn ca ging vin hng dn
(Ch k, ghi r h v tn)
Th.s Hunh Th Vit H
MC LC
LI M U................................................................................................................................1
LI M U..........................................................................................................................1
CHNG 1: GII THIU V LCH S MI HNG.........................................................2
CHNG 1: GII THIU V LCH S MI HNG.......................................................2
1.1. Ngun gc lch s.............................................................................................................2
1.2. Khi nim mi hng.........................................................................................................3
CHNG 2: NHNG MI HNG C TRONG T NHIN.............................................4
CHNG 2: NHNG MI HNG C TRONG T NHIN...........................................4
2.1. Mi hng c ngun gc t thc vt................................................................................4
2.1.1. Hydrocacbon..................................................................................................................4
2.1.2. Alcol, Phenol, Etherphenol............................................................................................5
2.1.3 Aldehyde, Ceton, Ester....................................................................................................7
2.1.4. Cc hp cht khc..........................................................................................................8
2.2. Mi hng c ngun gc t ng vt..............................................................................9
2.3. Mt s phng php thng dng tch n hng quan trng t tinh du................10
2.3.1 Tch hp cht Ancol bng phng php CaCl2...........................................................10
2.3.2 Tch hp cht dn sut Phenol......................................................................................11
2.3.3 Tch cc hp cht d kt tinh........................................................................................11
2.3.4 Tch cc hp cht Aldehyd...........................................................................................11
2.4. Nhng cng dng k o trong hng liu cc loi cy, hoa, l.....................................12
2.5. Mt s tinh du quan trng..............................................................................................13
2.4.1. Tinh du hoa hng........................................................................................................13
2.4.2. Tinh du trm hng....................................................................................................15
2.4.3 Tinh du dng hi hng............................................................................................16
2.4.4 Tinh du hng qu.........................................................................................................17
2.6.5. Tinh du chanh thm....................................................................................................18
2.4.6. Tinh du v cam ng..................................................................................................19
2.4.7.Tinh du trm................................................................................................................21
2.4.8. Tinh du qu.................................................................................................................21
2.4.9. Tinh du Thng, Tuyt Tng, Hong n...................................................................24
CHNG 3: NHNG MI HNG NHN TO................................................................25
CHNG 3: NHNG MI HNG NHN TO.............................................................25
3.1. Tng hp v bn tng hp mt s cht c hng tnh..................................................25
3.1.1. Hp cht c hng tnh dng este................................................................................25
3.1.2. Hp cht c hng tnh dng andehyd........................................................................27
i
3.1.3. Hp cht c hng tnh dng ancol..............................................................................29

3.1.4. iu ch hp cht khc................................................................................................30
3.2. Vai tr mi hng nhn to i vi cuc sng...............................................................31
CHNG 4: NG DNG CA MI HNG......................................................................34
CHNG 4: NG DNG CA MI HNG..................................................................34
4.1. ng dng trong m phm................................................................................................34
4.1.1. Sa tm.........................................................................................................................34
4.1.2. Du gi.........................................................................................................................34
................................................................................................................................................35
4.1.3 Sn phm chm sc da..................................................................................................35
4.1.4. Nc hoa:.....................................................................................................................35
4.1.5. Mt na...........................................................................................................................37
4.2. ng dng trong dc phm.............................................................................................37
4.3. ng dng trong thc phm..............................................................................................38
4.4. ng dng trong hng tiu dng.......................................................................................40
4.4.1. Nc x vi..................................................................................................................40
4.4.2. Nc xt phng.............................................................................................................40
4.5. ng dng trong spa..........................................................................................................41
4.6. ng dng trong nhang thm...........................................................................................44
4.7. ng dng trong nn thm................................................................................................46
CHNG 5: MT S VN LU KHI S DNG HNG LIU...........................49
CHNG 5: MT S VN LU KHI S DNG HNG LIU........................49
CHNG 6: TH TRNG HNG LIU TRONG V NGOI NC........................52
CHNG 6: TH TRNG HNG LIU TRONG V NGOI NC.......................52
CHNG 7: KT LUN V XU HNG PHT TRIN MI HNG.........................54
CHNG 7: KT LUN V XU HNG PHT TRIN MI HNG........................54
ii
Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh
Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha
LI M U
Hin nay, hu ht mi ngi vt qua giai on n no mc m bc
vo giai on n ngon mc p v thm tho. Ni n chuyn thm tho th nh
lc vo m cung vi v vn nc hoa, ty sc chn la, no l nc hoa trong
phng tm, phng ng, nc hoa xt ln trn ngi v mi loi li cng rt a
dng... Bn cnh , hin nhiu ngi cn s dng hng tr liu trong khi tm,
xng hi, ngm chn, ngm ngi ti nh
Thm hng thm cho nh l mt trong nhng s thch mi ca nhiu gia
nh hin nay. H chi hng vi nhiu cp , nhiu gu rt ring. C ngi thch
nhng mi hng nng v nng theo phong cch Trung ng, c ngi li tm
mi hoa c t nhin ca hng ng ni hay lng mn kiu Php V vy, vi
nhng nhu cu rt a dng ca x hi cng nh ngi tiu dng nn ngnh cng
ngh hng liu pht trin mt cch nhanh chng vi rt nhiu mi hng khc
nhau i cng vi nhng sn phm th gin cng nh phong cch ca mi ngi.
Do , nhng ng dng khi a hng liu vo trong cc lnh vc ca cuc sng
l mt s pht trin vt bc ca khoa hc.
GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H
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CHNG 1: GII THIU V LCH S MI HNG

1.1. Ngun gc lch s.
Mi thm lin quan mt thit n s pht trin ca loi ngi. Thi tin s, con
ngi bit n du thm v g thm tng hng v ca thc n. Ngi Ai Cp c
i dng nhang v m thm cng thn, dng du thm trong nghi l tn gio v lm
p, iu ny c chng minh trong cc di ch kho c tm c.
Hnh 1.1 - Hnh nh di ch kho c c lin quan n mi hng.

Ngi Hy Lp c dong thuyn tm hng thm, ngi La M c dng hng
tr bnh. Khi cc tc ngi man di xm lng Chu u th vic dng hng thm cng
gim i vng ny, nhng cc lnh th theo o Hi th ngh thut lm cht thm li
c nhng bc pht trin mi. S ra i ca thit b chng ct v s hon thin k thut
chng ct a ngi Rp v Ba T ln bc thy v hng liu.
Phi n th k 12, cc nc Kit gio mi li bit n nc thm tr li, h cn
dng nc thm phng nga dch bnh v kh c, v nc thm va tng trng cho
s thanh lch va c ngha st khun.
Th k 16 chng kin s kt hp gia ngh lm gng tay vi ngh lm nc thm.
Nc thm bn chy v con ngi cn ngy trang cho ci mi kh ngi ca gng tay da.
Sang th k 17, kiu thnh hnh l cht thm ly t ng vt: cht x hng
(musk) c ly t con hu x v cht cy hng (civek) c ly t con vt cng tn.
n thi i Khai sng ca th k 18, mt thnh hnh l cht thm ly t hoa v qu, ch
yu tng s quyn r. Nhiu loi nc hoa v chai l mi c tung ra, v ngay trong
c tro dng trong L Tro ca o Kit cng c tm nc thm.
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Bc sang th k 19, ngnh ha hc c th tng hp cc cht thm nhn to bt

chc mi thin nhin ng thi sng to ra nhng cht thm mi. Cng ngh sn xut
c khai sinh.
c trng ca th k 20 l xa hoa v tin b. Cc loi nc thm tip tc chim u
th, thm nhp vo ngh thut cng nh thng trng.
Nm 1928, ln u tin thut ng liu php hng hoa - aromatherapy c nh
ho hc ngi Php - Rene Maurice Gattefosse a vo s dng. Liu php hng hoa l
cch s dng tinh du thm chit xut t l, thn, hoa, v cy hay r ca cc loi thc vt
to ra cm gic phn chn tinh thn.
1.2. Khi nim mi hng.
Hng liu l nhng cht thc vt c mi thm nng m ngi ta tch ly c
nhng kin thc v chng t kinh nghim ca cuc sng.
Hng liu l mt hn hp c s kt hp hi ha gia nguyn liu c bn thin
nhin v tng hp. Mi nguyn liu c bn c lu lng bc hi c trng: nhiu pht,
nhiu gi, c khi c nhiu ngy,
Hng liu c th c tm thy t nhng nguyn liu c bn cng nh c th
tng hp c. Mi loi hng liu c mt mi hng c trng ca n.
Ngi ta khm ph ra rng th gii c khong 4.000 loi c th tit ra tinh du,
trong c vi trm loi c th tc ng mnh ln khu gic con ngi. Mt s loi tinh
du thng dng nh qut to s hng phn, em li cm gic thoi mi. Hoa hng va
lm sn da, va gip th gin tinh thn. Cc loi oi hng, hoc hng, ngc lan gip
cc gic quan c ngh ngi, xua bt lo lng, cng thng. Tinh cht t tr xanh, tinh du
gng lm m c th, c mi thm d chu v cn cha mt s vitamin dng da.
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CHNG 2: NHNG MI HNG C TRONG T NHIN

2.1. Mi hng c ngun gc t thc vt.
Trn th gii hin nay c khong 2.500 loi cy cha tinh du sn xut khong
20.000 tn tinh du mi nm. Hm lng v tr lng tinh du ty thuc vo: vng
(nhit i, n i), iu kin thu hoch v trng trt, h, loi, v tr trn cy. B phn
cha tinh du rt a dng ty h: t bo (h long no, gng), biu b (hoa hng), ng
(hoa tn), ti (h cam). Ngoi ra tinh du c th dng t do hoc kt hp. Thnh phn
ha hc ca chng gm:
2.1.1. Hydrocacbon.
Cac hydrocarbon thng gp trong tinh du la nhng terpen (C10H16)n mach h
hoc vong.
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2.1.2. Alcol, Phenol, Etherphenol.
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2.1.3 Aldehyde, Ceton, Ester.
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2.1.4. Cc hp cht khc.
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2.2. Mi hng c ngun gc t ng vt.

Mt s ng vt c tuyn hormon tit ra hp cht c mi thm nh: c voi
(Ambrein), chn hng (Castoreum), cy hng (Scatol + civetton), hu c (x hng
Muscon), mo Ethiopia (Civette absolute).
Hnh 2.1 - C voi
Hnh 2.2 - Chn hng v cy hng
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Hnh 2.3 - Hu c
Hnh 2.4 - Mo Ethiopia

2.3. Mt s phng php thng dng tch n hng quan trng t tinh du.
2.3.1 Tch hp cht Ancol bng phng php CaCl2
Nguyn tc:
Li dng tnh cht nhng alcol c tnh acid d to mui alcolat Ca. Tch mui ra
khi hn hp ri sau hon nguyn alcol bng thu phn. ng dng tch cc cht nh:
geraniol, linalool, borneol,
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2.3.2 Tch hp cht dn sut Phenol

Nguyn tc:
Li dng tnh cht hp cht phenol c H acid d to mui phenolate Na (t tan) d
tch c mui ra khi hn hp tinh du. Sau hon nguyn dng phenol bng dung
dch acid. ng dng tch cc cht nh: Thymol, Eugenol,
2.3.3 Tch cc hp cht d kt tinh

Nguyn tc:
H nhit kt tinh n hng cn tch ra khi tinh du. ng dng tch cc
cht nh: Menthol, Anethol, Safrol.
2.3.4 Tch cc hp cht Aldehyd
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Nguyn tc:
Nhm C = O ca andehyd hoc ceton to phc cng vi Natri sunfit dng ta. Sau
tch ta, hon nguyn aldehyde (hoc ceton) bng dung dch pha long. ng dng
tch cc cht nh: Citral, citronellal,
2.4. Nhng cng dng k o trong hng liu cc loi cy, hoa, l.
Hng qu: Mi hng ti mi, xanh v ging nh cam tho. Hiu qu: Kch
thch tinh thn. Ch tr: Chng au na u, suy nhc, au c bp, au d dy.
G tuyt tng: Hng g, m v hng g thng. Hiu qu: Gip phn khch tnh
dc. Ch tr: Lnh cm, sung huyt, nhim trng, lo lng.
Qu: Hng ngt, m, cay. Hiu qu: Kch thch tinh thn. Ch tr: Cng thng,
kit sc, to bn, thp khp.
Cy x thm: V ngt, mi ht ph, tho mc. Hiu qu: Mang li trng thi thoi
mi, v lo. Ch tr: Cng thng, suy nhc, mn kinh, chng nhn v lnh cm.
inh hng: V ngt, hng hng, m. Hiu qu: Gip tinh thn thng hoa. Ch
tr: au rng, au nhc c bp, cng thng, cm cm.
Gng: C mi tiu cay, c tnh m, nng. Hiu qu: Tip thm sinh lc. Ch tr:
Cm, au nhc c bp, bun nn, lnh cm.
Th l: V ngt, tnh m. Hiu qu: Ly li s thanh thn, bnh tnh. Ch tr: Lo
lng, hong lon, vn v kinh nguyt, bun nn, hn ch np nhn.
Trm hng: Mi thm du, mi mc, m. Hiu qu: Cng thng, hen suyn, ho,
vim khp, np nhn.
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Bi: C v ngt, ging cam qut. Hiu qu: Lm tnh to khe khon. Ch tr:
Suy nhc, lo lng, kit sc.
Hng nhi: V ngt, mi cy c. Hiu qu: Phn khch tnh dc. Ch tr: Lnh
cm, suy nhc, cn au , kh da.
Bch x: Gia v, h tiu, mi g thng. Hiu qu: Lm cho tinh thn thanh sch.
Ch tr: Cc vn v da, tr nh km, vim khp, kh chu do say ru.
Hoa oi hng: V ngt, mi cy c. Hiu qa: Mang li cm gic m du. Ch
tr: Chng mt ng, bng, au u, nhim trng.
C tranh: Mi hng c, mi kh v lnh. Hiu qu: Kch thch tinh thn. Ch tr:
Tr nh km, trm cm, sng ty do cn trng t, tun hon km.
Kinh gii : Tnh m, mi g, tho mc: Hiu qu: Gip thanh thn. Ch tr: Lo
lng, au nhc c bp, huyt p cao, hen suyn.
Hoc hng: Mi hng, cay, nh mi x, ngt. Hiu qu: Kch thch tnh dc.
Ch tr: Lnh cm, cng thng thn kinh, chy nng, sng ty do cn trng t.
Bc h: V ngt, cay ca bc h, ti mi. Hiu qu: Tnh to v khe khon tinh
thn. Ch tr: Bun nn, tiu ha km, chy nng, thiu tp trung.
G n hng: V ngt, mi ca g, hng nng. Hiu qu: Ci thin nng lc.
Ch tr: Suy nhc, lnh cm, ho.
Ch: Mi cay, nh mi htuc. Hiu qu: kch thch tinh thn. Ch tr: cc vt m,
virus, au hng, nhim trng ng tit niu.
Hoa hng: V m, hng mi cy c. Hiu qu: Kch thch tnh dc. Ch tr: Mn
kinh, lnh cm.
Hong lan: Mi cy c, ngt. Hiu qu: Gy phn kch. Ch tr: Lnh cm, huyt
p cao, da du.
2.5. Mt s tinh du quan trng.
2.4.1. Tinh du hoa hng.
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Hnh 2.5 - Hoa hng Rosa damascena v tinh du hoa hng

Cc tn khc: Oleum rosarum (Latin), Essence de rose (Php), Rosenoel (c).
Thnh phn: Tinh du hoa hng cha 70 75 geraniol, citronellol v mt lng
nh nhng ester khc.
Nguyn liu v phng php tch chit:
Tinh du hoa hng c c bng cch chng ct li cun hi nc hay chit bng
dung mi nguyn liu hoa ti Rose damascena, Rose gallica v nhng loi hoa hng
khc.
Vi phng php ct ko thi gian ct khong 2 gi 15 pht. Hiu sut thu tinh
du khong 1kg tinh du/ (2600 2700kg hoa). Phng php chit dng dung mi
thng dng ether du ha, sau khi bc hi dung mi ta thu c rose concrete oil vi
hiu sut khong 0,22 0,25%, t rose concrete oil qua x l thu c rose absolute oil
(50 60%). Nc sn xut nhiu tinh du hoa hng nht l Bungari, mt s nc khc
cng sn xut tinh du hoa hng nh Th Nh K, Ai Cp, Marc, Php, Anh, H Lan,
n ,...
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du hoa hng l cht lng khng mu hoc c mu vng nht, c
mi hoa hng v c dng bn rn nhit thng.
- T trng 150C : 0,848 0,863
- Gc quay cc : - 10 - 40 (ng o 100mm, 250C)
- Chit xut 250C : 1,458 1,463
- Rt t tan trong nc, tan tt trong cn v CHCl3
Tinh du hoa hng Php nhn c t hoa rose centifolia c mi hng v tnh
cht khc tinh du Bungari nhn c t damask rose- thnh thong tinh du hoa hng
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trng cng c dng Bungaria, nhng c mi hng km hn tinh du ca damask

rose.
ng dng:
Tinh du hoa hng genuin rose otto c dng nhiu trong cc hp hng, trong
hn hp bouquet perfume. Hng hoa hng c s dng rng ri trong cc loi nc
hoa, sn phm m phm nh: kem, phn, lotion,... tm vo cc vt dng nh khn tay,...
Kh nng gy d ng:
Tinh du hoa hng gn nh khng gy d ng cho da.
2.4.2. Tinh du trm hng.
Hnh 2.6 - Tinh du trm hng

Cc tn khc: Oleum Aquilariae (Latin), Essence de boisd Aigle (Php),
Agarroel (c).
Thnh phn chnh ca tinh du trm:
-
2-(2-(4-methoxy phenyl) chromon : 27,0%
2-(2-phenylethyl) chromon : 15,0%
Oxoagarospirol : 5,0%
9,11-eremophilandien-8-0n : 3,0%
6-methoxy-2-(2-(4-methoxy phenyl ethyl) chromon : 2,5%
Ngoi ra, trong tinh du cn c guaia-1(10), 11-dien-15-al v nhng

sesquiterpen khc.

Trm l sn phm ca cu d sinh ra do tc dng ca mt s vi khun ln cy hoc
do tc ng ca vt thng. Trm l nhng khi nha nm trong g thn cy . Tinh
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du trm thu c bng cch chng ct li cun hi nc hoc chit bng dung mi t
phn vn hoc cc th phm khi khai thc trm.
Cy d c cc khu vc nh vng ng bc n n Myanma, Malaysia,
Sumatra, Borneo (Indonesia), Philipine, Nam Trung Quc, Campuchia, Vit Nam.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du trm l cht lng snh mu vng tm, mu da cam m, mi thm c
bit, rt dai.
- T trng : 1,0086 1,0116
- Gc quay cc : - 30 2 - 140
- Chit xut 250C : 1,4920 1,5001
ng dng:
Tinh du trm khi t c mi rt thm, thng dng trong cc nghi l tn gio
cc nc phng ng.
Tinh du c dng sn xut cc loi nc hoa cao cp.
2.4.3 Tinh du dng hi hng.
Hnh 2.7 - Tinh du hi

Cc tn khc: Oleum anisi (Latin), Essence d Anis (Php), Anisoel (c)
Thnh phn chnh: trong tinh du dng hi hng l trans anethol (89,7
94,0%), methyl chavicol, anise aldehyd.
Tinh du dng hi hng c c bng phng php chng ct li cun hi
nc qu hi kh Pimpinella anisum L, h hoa tn. Hiu sut thu tinh du khong 1,5
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6%. Cy hi Pimpinella anisum c trng vng Trung Cn ng, cc nc chu u,

n , Trung Quc v mt s nc Nam M.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du dng hi hng l cht lng khng mu hoc c mu vng nht, c mi
c trng ca hi, v ngt.
- T trng 200C : 0,980 0,990
- Gc quay cc D : 00 6 - 20
- Chit xut 200C : 1,552 1,559
ng dng:
Tinh du dng hi hng c dng nhiu trong mt s hp hng, cc sn
phm m phm chm sc tay v chn.
Tinh du dng hi hng c tc dng tr liu mt s bnh ng tiu ha nn
c dng trong cc sn phm chm sc rng ming.
2.4.4 Tinh du hng qu.
Hnh 2.8 - Tinh du hng qu

Cc tn khc: Oleum basilici (Latin), Essence de Basilic (Php), Basilicumoel
(c).
Thnh phn:
Thnh phn chnh trong tinh du ty thuc vo vng nguyn liu:
Tinh du Php: linalol 40,7%; methyl chavicol 23,8%; eugenol 5,9%; citronellol
3,6%; - terpineol 1,9%; camphor 1,4%.
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Tinh du Ai Cp: linalol 45,6%; methyl chavicol 23,8%; eugenol 5,9%; citronellol
3,6%; - terpineol 1,9%; camphor 1,4%..
Tinh du Vit Nam: methyl chavicol (79,1 82,5%); linalol 0,1%
Ti Vit Nam, loi Ocimum basilicum var. Basilicum c trng rt ph bin,
hm lng tinh du trong l khong 1,7% (tnh trn dc liu kh tuyt i)
Tinh du c khai thc t cnh v l ca cy hng qu Ocimum basilicum L, h
bc h. Hiu sut khong 0,1 0,25% khi dng nguyn liu l tt c cc phn trn mt
t v 0,4% khi dng cnh mang hoa, thi gian ct ko di t 1 11 gi. Tinh du c
khai thc nhiu cc nc Php, c, Hoa K, Ty Ban Nha, Algeri, Ai Cp v Trung
Quc.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du ca cc nc nu trn c tnh cht kh ging nhau l cht lng, mu
vng nht, c mi tinh du hng qu c trng.
- T trng 150C : 0,9 0,930
- Gc quay cc : -6 -2 20
- Chit xut : 1,481 1,495
ng dng:
Tinh du hng qu c dng trong cc hp hng trong thc phm, cng ngh
pha ch nc hoa v cc sn phm m phm chm sc rng ming nh kem nh rng,
nc sc ming...
2.6.5. Tinh du chanh thm.
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Hnh 2.9 Tinh du chanh

Cc tn khc: Oleum bergamottae (Latin), Essence de Bergamote (Php),
Bergamottoel (c).
Thnh phn:
Thnh phn chnh ca tinh du l - pinen (6,12%), limonen (39,9%), - terpinen
(6,4%), linalol (10,6%), linalyl acetate (28,9%).

Tinh du c c t s p v cy chanh thm, gn lc, sau ly tm, tch tinh
du. Dch v b cn li tn dng thu acid citric, pectin, v ct ko hi nc thu thm tinh
du (tinh du th phm).
Cy chanh thm citrus bergamia risso v poiteau h cam, hin c trng nhiu
Canada, mt t b bin Ng v Ghin.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du chanh thm l cht lng mu vng nht n mu vng, c mi thm ca
cam, v du, thm, khng ng.
- T trng 150C : 0,848 0,853
- Gc quay cc : +950 30 +990
- Chit xut 200C : 1,473 1,475
ng dng:
Tinh du chanh thm l mt trong nhng hng liu rt quan trng trong cng
ngh pha ch nc hoa, c bit l nc hoa cho nam gii, ngoi ra tinh du chanh thm
cn c dng lm cht thm trong thuc l.
2.4.6. Tinh du v cam ng.
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P a g e | 19
Hnh 2.10 - Tinh du v cam

Cc tn khc: Oleum aurantii Amari (Latin), Essence dorange bigarade (Php),
bitteres pomeranzenoel (c).

Tinh du c khai thc t v cy cam ng citrus aurantium L., h cam, bng
phng php p c qu. Khong 300kg qu th p c 1kg tinh du, b cn li ct c
0,25kg tinh du loi th phm.
Thnh phn:
Thnh phn chnh ca tinh du l limoen vi hm lng trn 90%. Ngoi ra cn
c cc thnh phn khc nh:
- Alcol 0,37% bao gm linalol v terpineol
- Ester 2,1% bao gm linalyl acetate, neryl acetate, geranyl acetate, citronellyl
acetate.
- Aldehyd 0,78% bao gm nonyl aldehyd, decyl aldehyd, dodecyl aldehyd.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du cam ng l cht lng mu vng, mi thm, v ng.
- T trng 150C : 0,8517 0,8542
- Gc quay cc 150C : 00 6 - 20
- Chit xut 150C : 1,4747 1,4764
ng dng:
Tinh du cam ng c dng trong hng liu.
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P a g e | 20
2.4.7.Tinh du trm.
Hnh 2.11 - Tinh du trm

Cc tn khc: Oleum cajeputi (Latin), Essence de Cajeput (Php), Cajeputoel
(c).
Thnh phn:
Thnh phn chnh ca tinh du trm l cineol (40 70%); - terpineol (6 11%);
linalol (2 5%).
Tinh du c c t phng php chng ct li cun hi nc l trm melaleuca
leucadendron L., hiu sut thu khong 0,4 1,2%. Cy trm melaleuca c cc nc c,
Tn Ghin, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thi Lan, Vit Nam.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du trm l cht lng khng mu n mu vng nht, mi thm d chu.
- T trng 200C : 0,910 0,920
- Gc quay cc : -10 - 30
- Chit xut 200C : 1,466 1,472
ng dng:
Tinh du trm c dng ch yu trong ngnh dc: trong du xoa bp, thuc
cha bnh ng h hp, cc vt thng phm mm. Ngoi ra, cn dng chit xut
cineol, ngoi vic dng trong ngnh dc, cineol c dng trong cc hp bnh ko, kem
nh rng, nc sc ming.
2.4.8. Tinh du qu.
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Hnh 2.12 - V cy qu v tinh du qu

Cc tn khc:
Oleum cinnamoni cassiae (Latin), Essence Cannelle de chine (Php), Cassia oil
(c)
Tn khoa hc: Cinnamomum zeylanicum nees; ceylon cinnamon; C. Loureirii
nees; Saigon cinnamon; C. Cassia nees; Chinese cinnamon.
Thnh phn:
Thnh phn chnh ca tinh du ph thuc vo nguyn liu u:
- Ceylon cinnamon (v): caryophyllene, - cymene, - pinene, linalool, furfural v
cc aldehyd khc.
- Seychelles cinnamon (l): Eugenol (75 95%); cc terpene, - caryophyllene,
cinnamic alcol v benzlbanzoate (trn 27%)
- Chinese cinnamon (v): cha cinnamic aldehyd rt cao (khong 85%), ngoi ra
cn c cinnamyl acetate, benzaldehyd, methyl salicylate v coumarin.
Tinh du thu c t phng php chng ct li cun hi nc v cy.
Tnh cht ha l:
Tinh du l cht lng mu nu, c mi c trng ca qu (mi cinnamaldehyd).
Ty theo ngun nguyn liu, tinh du c cc ch s l ha khc nhau:
Tinh du t v ceylon cinnamon:
- Khi lng ring 250C : 1,010 1,030
- Chit xut 200C : 1,5730 1,5910
- Gc quay cc 200C : 00 20
DHHC5LT
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- tan trong EtOH 70% : 1:2 1:3

- Hm lng cc hp cht aldehyd (quy theo cinnamic aldehyd): 55 78%
- Hm lng cc hp cht phenol (quy theo eugenol): 4 10%
Tinh du t l ceylon cinnamon:
- Khi lng ring 250C : 1,030 1,050
- Chit xut 200C : 1,5290 1,5370
- Gc quay cc 200C : +10 -20
- Hm lng cc hp cht phenol (quy theo eugenol):80 88%
- Hm lng cc hp cht aldehyd (quy theo cinnamic aldehyd): nh hn 7%
- tan trong EtOH 70% : 1:2
Tinh du l seychelles cinnamon:
- Khi lng ring 250C : 1,040 1,060
- Chit xut 200C : 1,5330 1,5400
- Gc quay cc 200C : 00 -20
- Hm lng cc hp cht phenol (quy theo eugenol):87 96%
- tan trong EtOH 70% : 1:1
Tinh du t v chinese cinnamon:
- Khi lng ring 200C : 1,046 1,071
- Chit xut 200C : 1,600 1,610
- Gc quay cc 200C : +10 +60
- Hm lng cc hp cht aldehyd (quy theo cinnamic aldehyd): 70 90%
- Ch s acid : 15,0 (max)
ng dng:
Tinh du qu c s dng nhiu trong hng liu thc phm, nc gii kht,
ru,... Ngoi ra, tinh du qu cn c s dng trong c cc du v cao xoa bp. Dch
ngm 20% trong EtOH 60 70% cng c s dng nhiu trong hng liu thc phm
v nc gii kht.
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 23
Kh nng gy d ng:
Tinh du qu c th gy d ng cp thi hay gy nng rt ln da nu dng qu liu.
2.4.9. Tinh du Thng, Tuyt Tng, Hong n.
Hnh 2.13 - Cy h thng

Cc tn khc: Oleum ligni cedri (Latin), Essence de ois de Cdre (Php),
Cedernholzoel (c).
Tinh du c khai thc t g bng phng php chng ct li cun hi nc.
Ngun nguyn liu ch yu:
- G thng tuyt cedrus deodara (roxle) h thng, cho tinh du hymalayan
cedarwood, hiu sut thu tinh du: 4,41%
- G tng juniperus virginiana L., h trc bh Hoa K, cho tinh du American red
dedarwood, hiu sut thu tinh du 3,5%.
- G hong n cupressus funebris gord, h trc bch, Trung Quc, Nht Bn, cho
tinh du chinese cedarwood, hiu sut thu tinh du 2 5% (g r); 0,2 1%(l)
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 24
CHNG 3: NHNG MI HNG NHN TO

Trc ht bn cn phn bit gia mi hng t nhin v mi hng tng hp.
Hng thm t nhin c chit xut t thc vt v mt s b phn ca ng vt, 100%
n t t nhin, cn hng thm tng hp li n t cc phng th nghim ha hc. Hp
cht ha hc ny c th to ra mt mi hng l m bn cha tng thy trong cuc i,
song cng c th bt chc chnh xc mt mi hng quen thuc no ca t nhin
nh anh em sinh i.
3.1. Tng hp v bn tng hp mt s cht c hng tnh.
3.1.1. Hp cht c hng tnh dng este
A. Nguyn tc
Ba dng phn ng thng c ng dng iu ch ester c hng tnh l:
R1CH2OH + R2COX
R1CH2OCOR2 + HX
R1CH2OH + R2COOCOR2
R1CH2OH + R2COOH
R1CH2OCOR2 + R2COOH
R1CH2OCOR2 + H2O
(1)
(2)
(3)
Ph ch:
Bc alcol cng cao
phn ng cng chm.

phn ng ph (tch nc) (H2SO4, to) cng cao.
Phn ng (3) < (2) < (1)

Nu thc hin phn ng (1) v (2), sau phn ng phi thu phn loi tc cht
d. Ngoi ba phn ng chnh trn cn phn ng trao i ester cng c quan tm trong
tng hp n hng. V d: tng hp cc ester anthranilate bc cao hn
methylanthranilate.
B. ng dng iu ch
iu ch mt s este mi qu:
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 25
iu ch mt s ester ca acetic acid v ru terpen:
iu ch mt s esterru thm:
iu ch mt s ester ca acid salicylic:
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 26
iu ch mt s ester ca acid cinnamic:
3.1.2. Hp cht c hng tnh dng andehyd.

A. Nguyn tc:
B. ng dng iu ch:
iu ch benzaldehyd t toluene:
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 27
Tc cht oxy ho MnO2

Tc cht to pH mi trng: H2SO4
iu kin:
nH2SO4/ ntoluene = 3/1

AgNO3 = 0.1% tnh theo lng H2SO4
nMnO2/ ntoluene = 0.25/1 (cho t t)
to phn ng (oC) = 20
Hiu sut (%) = 50 60
Ch : Mn2O + H2SO4
Mn2SO4 + H2 + 2[O]
iu ch citral t linalool, qua trung gian geraniol:
Tc cht oxy ha : K2Cr2O2

Tc cht to pH mi trng : H2SO4/CH3CO2H
iu kin:
n linalool/n Na2Cr2O7/nH2SO4 = 3:2:3,2

to phn ng (oC) = 60 62
T phn ng ( gi) = 3 -4 h
(*) dng NaHSO3 tch citral
Hiu sut (%) = 50 70
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P a g e | 28
3.1.3. Hp cht c hng tnh dng ancol

A. Nguyn tc:
Phn ng kh ha
Xc tc:
Vi : RCOOH
CuO, Cr2O3
Vi : RCOOR
Na/EtOH , Na/BuOH ( khng c dng vi cc este c
gc formiat)
Vi RCHO
Al alcolat
Vi RCHO
HCHO / NaOH
Phn ng ng phn ha, di tc dng t0C, xt, P
R1CH2OH
Phn ng hydrat ha anken vi xc tc H2SO4
R CH = CHR + H2O
R2CH2OH
CH
CH2R
OH
B. ng dng iu ch:
Citronellool t citral : xt, P, t0C
Geraniol t citral: phn ng Claisen + Tixenco
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 29
Terpineol t terpin hydrat: phn ng kh H2O/H2SO4xt
Hydroxyl citronellal t citronellol : phn ng hydrat ha
3.1.4. iu ch hp cht khc.

A. iu ch IONON:
Nguyn tc: tri qua 2 giai on
Ngng t citral v aceton di tc dng ca kim
ng vng.
DHHC5LT
pseudoionon.
P a g e | 30
B. iu ch MUSC AMBRO
Nguyn tc: tri qua 3 giai on
Methyl ha metacresol bi methyl sulfuric acid.
Isobutyl ha phenolate methyl bi isobutylic alcol vi xc tc
H2SO4.
Nitro ha sn phm va sinh ra.
3.2. Vai tr mi hng nhn to i vi cuc sng.

D em li nhng thnh tu rc r cho cng nghip mi hng nhng trong xu
hng a chung mi th thuc v t nhin nh hin nay (thc n t nhin, m phm t
nhin, cht liu t nhin), hng liu tng hp vn ngy ngy i mt vi hng lot nh
kin.
Hng liu tng hp r tin? Sai. Nhiu ngi khng bit rng hng liu tng
hp tt cng t nh tinh du t nhin chit xut t cc loi thc vt qu him. Hng
liu tng hp gy d ng? Sai. Nhiu hng liu t nhin c kh nng gy d ng trm
trng hn nhiu so vi hng liu tng hp. Ly v d, cht Sandalore c mi hng nh
g n hng (cht ny c cng thc ha hc l C14H26O). S dng nc hoa cha
Sandalore bn ch c mt kh nng b d ng vi C14H26O. Trong khi , s dng nc
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 31
hoa t n hng t nhin, vi cc phn t nh alpha, beta-Santalol, Spirosantalol,

beta-Curcumene, (Z)-Nucifero nguy c b d ng ca bn cao hn gp hng chc ln.
Nhiu ngi snh nc hoa thng c quan nim kh cc oan v nc hoa t
nhin v nc hoa tng hp. Theo h, nc hoa tng hp mang phong cch ca M, hin
i nhng x b. Trong khi nc hoa t nhin thng xut x t Php, lng mn, tinh
t.
Hng liu tng hp d dng kim sot hn cc hng liu t nhin vn c th b
h hng v bin cht do thi tit, kh hu, vn chuyn. Trong hnh tn cam chanh t
nhin, lm th no kim sot vi ng mi hng , vi nng t nm ny qua
nm khc, t ln sn xut ny qua ln sn xut khc? iu ny ch c th gii quyt c
vi hng liu tng hp.
Quan trng hn, mi hng tng hp gip bo v mi trng. Nhng cnh rng
n hng ca n ang b tn ph, hi ly v hu b git ly x, c voi b sn ly
cht long din hng Hng liu tng hp l gii php cho nhng iu v cn hn
th.
Trn th gii ch c tm cng ty nghin cu v ch to ra hng liu tng hp,
c gi chung l Big Eight: International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), GivaudanRoure, Firmenich, Quest International, Takasago, Symrise, Mane, Robertet.
Hnh 3.1 Tng hp mi hng nhn to
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 32
Hng t nhin
Hng tng hp
Phng sai
Thay i theo thi gian

v a im m ngun
nguyn liu c thu hoch.
S gp kh khn nu mun
duy tr tnh n nh ca mi
hng.
S lng nhiu hn mi
hng t nhin. Tuy nhin,
s pha trn cc cht tng
hp hu c khc nhau c
th sn sinh tp cht. Nu
tp cht c mi, nhng mi
hng thnh phm s c s
khc bit cho d cng l
mt nc hoa.
Thnh phn
Ty thuc vo tinh
Hng ngn hp cht ha
khit, bao gm ch yu l
hc
mt hp cht ha hc.
Tnh cht
Mi hng c th ging
ht t nhin song cng c
Mi hng c trng
th bin ha thnh cc mi
ca vt liu c khai thc
khng tm thy trong t
nhin.
Cc lp hng
Mi hng t nhin
Cc lp hng phn bit
thng c nhiu lp hng,
r rng v c tnh n nh
su v phc tp. Mm mi
cao.
vi cc sc thi mi tinh t.
Gi thnh
Gi thnh phi chng

khin nc hoa tng hp
c ph bin. Tuy nhin,
t do nguyn liu t
mt s mi hng tng hp
nhin c hn v phi khai
t bng, thm ch t
thc rt tn km.
hn hng t nhin v s
phc tp trong qu trnh
tng hp.
Bng 3.1 So snh hng t nhin v hng tng hp
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 33
CHNG 4: NG DNG CA MI HNG

4.1. ng dng trong m phm.
4.1.1. Sa tm.
Cc nh sn xut sa tm trn th gii a cc mi hng c chit xut
trong t nhin vo cc sn phm ca mnh.
Hng sn xut m phm Dove a ra th trng 4 loi sa tm mang hng v
ca thin nhin:
Sa tm Dove / Dove body

wash pro-age cha 7% du
u nnh, 1% du lu v
10% Glycerin & emollients
gip hi phc t bo da, dng
da v gi m cho da.
Sa tm Dove xanh/ Dove

body wash refresh c hng
thm da chut v tr xanh
mang li cho bn cm gic
khoan khoi.
Sa tm Dove vng/
Dove body wash go fresh
vi cc ht mt xa nh v
hng bi cng hng
c chanh s tip thm sinh
lc cho ln da ca bn.
4.1.2. Du gi.
T xa ng b ta dng tri b kt gi u, v ngy nay nhng sn phm du
gi u b kt vn c sn xut rt ph bin. Trong ni bt l sn phm Sunsilk.
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Ring du gi hoa hng dng c tc dng tr gu v lm mt tc nh hot cht

c trong ht hng dng. du gi chanh- s- bc h thm hng chanh t nhin.
4.1.3 Sn phm chm sc da.

Hin nay, vic bin i kh hu khng ch nh hng n sc khe m nhng tia
cc tm d dng xuyn qua tng kh quyn v i vo da chng ta. Chnh v vy nhng sn
phm chm sc da c chit sut t hng liu ra i khng nhng lm chng ta p
hn m chng cn c tc dng bo v ln da.
4.1.4. Nc hoa:
Ngy nay, vic s dng nc hoa ca con ngi ngy cao. Mi ngi i hi
nc hoa khng nhng phi c mi thm m cn phi tht d chu, tht quyn r. Trc
nhu cu con ngi khng ngng nng tm nc hoa ln. Nhng hng sn xut nc
hoa ni ting th gii cho ra i cng nhiu nhng sn phm nc hoa mang hng v
ca t nhin. Nhng loi nc hoa c chit xut t nhng tinh du t nhin c mi
ngi a chung v c sn xut nhiu hn c.
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 35
Nc hoa Chanel No.5: Hin sn phm c pht trin vi nhng mi c trng

gm hng ngc lan ty, tinh du hoa cam, hoa nhi, hoa hng, hoa lan chung, c
vetiver, g n hng, vani, h phch...
Nc hoa Shalimar, Guerlain: Rt phng ng, ly cm hng t cu chuyn

tnh bt t ca Taj Mahal. Shalimar l biu tng ca kht vng v quyn r, c bit n
tnh v m hoc lng ngi, hng thm ca n a ta vt qua mi ranh gii ca s
cm on. Chnh vani to nn iu k diu Shalimar. y l mt trong nhng nc
hoa lu i nht trong lch s.
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 36
4.1.5. Mt na.
Du Oliu l mt tuyt phm lm p ca thin nhin, sau y xin bt m thm cho
bn 2 cch lm mt n mi t du oliu gip chng lo ho cho da.
Mt n lm trng t du oliu
Nguyn liu: mt t ng, 1 tha du oliu.
Cch lm: Trn ng ct v du liu, cho tm
mt n vo ngm ri p ln mt, mi tun 3 ln,
c th thu nh l chn lng v gip lm trng da.
Mt n tr nm t du oliu
Nguyn liu: 1 tha du oliu, 1 t mt ong, gc
hoc 1 ming mt n.
Cch lm: Du oliu lm nng ln khong 37
, thm lng mt ong va phi, cho tm gc
hoc mt n vo ngm sau ly ra p ln mt
khong 20 pht, c th chng lo ho cho da, lm
mm v tr nm, thch hp dnh cho da kh.
4.2. ng dng trong dc phm.

Tinh du ngoi vic dng ch m phm, du gi v lm gia v trong cng ngh
thc phm, th cn mt vai tr rt rt quan trng trong i sng ca con ngi chng ta,
l ng dng ca hng liu v tinh du trong dc phm, tinh du c dung cha
bnh, Tinh du c dng ch cc loi thuc bi xoa, lm tan nhng vt t mu bm
tm, lm du cn au, tinh du cn lm thuc chng cm cm, st trng v kch thch tiu
ho
Sau y l mt trong s nhng tinh du ph bin:
Tinh du s: C tc dng st trng, ty trng, lm thuc kch thch tiu ho, gip
n ngon ming. Ngoi ra, tinh du s cn dng ui mui, lm nc hoa, du gi
u.
Tinh du qu: C tc dng kch thch tun hon mu, h hp mnh ln, kch thch
bi tit, tng cng co bp t cung v nhu ng rut. Tinh du qu cn dng xoa
bp vng au, bm tm do chn thng, dng nh gi khi b cm mo.
DHHC5LT
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Tinh du chanh: Tc dng lm thm cc thuc ngm hay thuc bt d ung.

Ngoi ra, tinh du chanh cn dng ch nc gi u.
Tinh du bc h: Dng lm thuc st trng, xoa bp ni sng au nh cc khp,
au u do cm nng, cha y bng kh tiu. Tinh du bc h bc hi nhanh gy
cm gic mt v t ti ch.
Vin ngm bc h iu tr ho, dng iu tr trong trng hp au dy thn kinh
ngoi bin. Khng dng tinh du ny nh mi v bi hng, d gy hin tng c
ch, c th ngng th, ngng tim t ngt.
Tinh du hng nhu: Cy hng nhu trng v ta u c tinh du, t l tinh du
hng nhu trng cao gp i hng nhu ta. Tc dng ca tinh du hng nhu ch
thnh v thuc dng trong nha khoa v tng hp cht vanilin.
Tinh du long no: Tinh du long no c th dng ngoi xoa bp thay long no
c cha cm lnh, tiu vim gim sng n, ngoi ra cn c tc dng ch thuc tr
su, ha tan sn nha lm dung mi.
Tinh du inh hng: C tc dng st khun v dit su b. Tinh du inh hng
c dng trong nha khoa lm thuc t v dit tu rng.
4.3. ng dng trong thc phm.
Hng liu cc k quan trng trong thc phm. Chng c s dng trong hu ht
cc loi thc phm hin nay. Chng l tc nhn to mu, to mi lm sn phm cng
thm a dng v phong ph. Bn cnh nhng loi thc phm c hng thm s rt thu
ht ngi tiu dng.
Thnh phn:
u xanh, ng kt tinh, m
ln, tinh du ca hoa bi.
Tinh du hoa bi gip tng
tnh hp dn ca sn phm ln
rt nhiu
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 38
Thnh phn:
Nc (80 n 85%), Alcohol (10 n
17%), Acid (0.4 n 1%), Cc cht ng,
Cc Mui Khong (0.2 n 0.4%), Cc
cht to hng v v to mu (0.01 n
0.5%), Cc cht to mi gm c cc
alcohol, cc aldehyde, cc ester, cc acid
v cc ketone., Cc sulfites hm lng
khong t 10 n 200 phn triu.
Thnh phn:
Min: Bt khoai ty, Bt u xanh,
Mui, ng , Bt ngt.
Sp : Du tinh luyn, mui, ng,
bt ngt, gia v, Bt tm, hnh l
sy, ng gai sy, tm sy, Axt
citric, Disodium 5-guanilate,
Disodium 5-inosinate, hng
chanh t nhin.
Thnh phn:
Water, green tea leaves (5g/l),
refined sugar, acidity modifiers,
citric acid ( E330), malic acid
(E296), trisodium citrate (E331iii),
certified lemon flavor, antioxidant:
vitamin C (E300)
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 39
4.4. ng dng trong hng tiu dng.

4.4.1. Nc x vi.
Thnh phn:
Dihydrogenated tallow
dimethyl ammonium
chloride, cht thm,
Stearic acid,
Benzalkonium chloride,
Acid citric, titanium
dioxide, calcium chloride,
1;2-Benzisothiazolin-3one, cht to mu, Nc.
(Hng ban mai)
Thnh
phn:
4.4.2. Nc
xt phng.
Nc,
Diethlester
Ammonium
Hydrochloric
Dimethyl
Chloride,
Acid,
Nc
Silicone,
hoa xt
phng
Calcium Chloride, Polyethylene
Sping N2 mang n cho
Glycol, Glutaraldehyde, Didecyl
khng gian hng thm
Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride,
thin nhin thm mt,
Cht to hng, Cht to mu.
trong lnh vi hng to
( Hng nng mai)
ngt ngo.
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 40
4.5. ng dng trong spa.

Con ngi t xa xa, bit s dng tinh du gi gn sc kho v sc p.
Tinh du c xem nh mt phng thuc thn k gi mi nt xun sc cho ngi
ph n.
Cc Spa ngy nay tn dng ti a kinh nghim ca qu kh vi nhng cng
ngh ca hin i bin Aromatherapy (nh nhng mi hng) tr thnh th c yu
thch nht. Aromatherapy khng ch n thun l tr liu bng hng, n cn l c mt
ngh thut v khoa hc trong vic s dng tinh du ca cc loi cy, hoa, l khc nhau
cha bnh v ci thin tm trng. C khong 1700 loi hng tr liu trong Spa, mi loi
hng hoc mi hn hp hng, nhng t l khc nhau, c th to ra nhng tc ng
khc nhau i vi tinh thn.
Theo nhiu nghin cu khoa hc, chm sc c th bng tinh du chit xut t tho
mc c th gii ta cng thng, tc ng ln h thn kinh v o thi nhng c t trong
c th ra ngoi di dng m hi. Tinh du gip loi t bo cht trn da, gi m v lm
cho da mt, mm mi, thoi mi, ng thi ngn chn v iu tit cht b gip da bt
nhn v khng ni trng c. Tuyt vi hn, tinh du cn kch hot v lm tiu m tha
di da gip da sn chc, ng thi ngm vo cc t bo da lm gim i s mt mi ca
h c.
C nm cch s dng tinh du trong liu php Spa: Tm, massage, xng hi,
dng v khuch tn.
Tm: Nh vi git tinh du nguyn cht vo bn nc m ri ngm mnh th gin
15-20 pht. Gip lm sch da, sn chc, thm tho sut nhiu gi ng h.
DHHC5LT
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Massage: S dng khong su git, c th dng mt loi hng liu hay trn ln
2-3 loi hng liu (nu kt hp ba loi, mi loi ch dng hai git l ), sau
trn u vi 15ml du massage hay cn gi l du mang (carrier oil). Phc hp
ny c dng xoa bp ton thn vi hiu qu rt tt.
Cng dng ca massage:
Massage c t hng nghn nm nay v c l l mt trong nhng phng
cch gim au nguyn s nht ca loi ngi. T massage c ngun gc t
masso ca Hy Lp vi ngha l s nn. Nhng tht ra, cch tr liu ny n t
phng ng. Vi quan nim rng c th con ngi c mt dng chy nng
lng cn gi l kh, massage chnh l cch vn kh, chuyn kh dng chy
ny lu thng tt nht trong c th ngi.
Massage gim cng thng v lo lng. N lm du cc h thn kinh, mang li
cm gic th gin v thoi mi hon ton.
Massage ci thin s tun hon mu a xy v dng cht ti cc t
bo.
Massage kch thch h thng mch huyt gip mang cc sn phm tha ra
khi c th.
N ngn chn v lm du cc s g b v co tht c bp.
Tr liu massage cng c th gip iu khin vt thng trong chng vim
khp, au thn kinh ta, c bp mi mt. Tuy nhin, nhiu ngi khe mnh vn
massage thng xuyn v n gip h duy tr s th thi trong c th, tinh thn v
cm xc.
Cc loi du massage:
Massage to cm xc thng hoa (Sensual massage oil)
Massage gii c (Detox massage oil)
Du massage tr ha (Rejuvenation massage oil)
Du massage th gin (Relax massage oil)
Du massage gip ng ngon (Deep Sleep massage oil)
Du massage dnh ring cho nam gii (For Men massage oil)
Du massage dnh cho da nhy cm (Sensitive massage oil)
Du massage gim bo (Cellubite massage oil)
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 42
Du massage lm trng (White massage oil)
Xng hi: D xng hi kh hay xng hi t th tinh du bc ln theo hi nng

s d dng thm thu vo da bn qua cc l chn lng lm se kht cc l chn lng.
D xng hi kh hay xng hi t th tinh du bc ln theo hi nng s d dng

thm thu vo da bn qua cc l chn lng.
Dng: Gm nhiu hnh thc
Lm mt n: Pha vi git tinh du vi sa chua, mt ong, cm go, hoc

tri cy nghin to ra cc loi mt n.
Dng tc: Sau khi gi u xong, xoa vi git tinh du ln tc cn m

gip tc khng b x v h tn.
Dng mi: Thoa nh mt cht tinh du c pha long vi du nn hoc

kem dng khng mi ln mi mi lun mm, khng b kh nt.
Dng bi: Sau khi tm, nh mt - hai git tinh du vo lng bn tay (pha
long vi nc m trnh b rt da), dng hai tay tn nh ri xoa u ln
c th. Lu : khng lau kh tay v ngi trc khi xoa tinh du thm
thu tt hn. Xoa nhiu hn ni th rp.
Khuch tn: Nh mt git tinh du vo l t nh c dng nn, cn phng ca

bn s tr nn thm mt. Bn cng c th nh vi git tinh du vo khn tay u
ging hoc vo gi, mt gic ng s n vi bn su sau khi chm dt liu trnh spa.
DHHC5LT
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4.6. ng dng trong nhang thm.

Vic dng hng (nhang) trong i sng ca ngi Vit Nam v cc nc
ng c l qu gn gi, nu khng mun ni l thit yu. Mi dp ngy rm, mng
mt hay gi tt th nn hng khng th thiu c trn bn th t tin hay thn ti ca
mi gia nh. Nn hng c xem l cu ni gia con ngi ca th gii hin ti v th
gii tm linh. Nn hng thm th hin s thnh knh ca ngi ang sng vi ngi
khut, vi t tin v cc v thn linh. Mi hng cng th hin khng kh trang nghim
ni tn knh. Trong nhng ngi cha, n th hay hi qun ca ngi ng, nhng
nn hng, vng hng vi ln khi mng v mi hng trm m lan ta l nhng hnh
nh rt i thn thuc.
Hnh 4.1 Nhang thm

Thnh phn hng chnh ca a s cc loi nhang thng c s dng v c
a chung nht l mi trm v trm c v s u im c nh gi rt cao nh l: Gi
tr ca trm hng c con ngi bit n t thi Ai Cp c i v xem l "cy ca
cc v thn" trong mi nn vn ha t Trung Cn ng cho n chu . Vi tnh cht
nh hng rt bn, mt th trm hng mc r trong t nhin hng ngn nm vn khng
mt mi, tinh du trm hng c s dng trong cng ngh ha m phm gip tng gi
tr sn phm ln gp nhiu lntrm hng c coi l mt v thuc c bit qu, him v
DHHC5LT
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t tin. Ngy xa, ngi ta dng trm hng lm gi chng au u, trm cm; ly
trm hng nu nc xng hoc tm cha si git tr em. Khi trm hng c dng
nh mt cht tr t, u kh. Nc trm hng c vy ln xc p bo qun. Bt
trm hng chng c b cht, chy, rn.
Dc liu trm hng c v cay, ng, hi ngt, mi thm, tnh m, c tc dng
b thn kh, trn tnh, gim au, cm nn, ch yu c dng trong nhng trng hp
au bng, tc ngc, lnh lng, nn ma, hen suyn, cm nng, kh th, b tiu tin, nam
gii tinh kh lnh. Tu Tnh (Nam dc thn hiu) dng trm hng phi hp vi ch
xc, nam mc hng, ht ci c, sao vng, sc nc ung cha thy thng, bng y
chng. Hi Thng Ln ng (Bch gia trn tng) li dng trm hng vi mc hng,
nhc qu, bch n, tn bt, lm vin ung vi nc sc l hoc hng cha nn ma
khng dt.
Hnh 4.2 Trm hng

Nhngtht cht trm thng s dng trong nhang( hng) a s u khng phi
l trm tht m u l nhng hng liu nhn to c mua bn rt nhiu nhng ch
tri . mt s nh sn xut h gi thnh sn phm s dng cc loi ha cht to mi
trn vo bt hng trong qu trnh sn xut hay l phun vo sn phm.. cc mi hng
thng c pha vi cn trong bnh xt , mi ln xt khong 1 thin (10.000 cy) 5
pht cho mi thm ngm vo. Mt s ni th pha ch hng liu trong thng phuy, nhang
c nhng vo y, hng thm s u hn. i vi nhang trm, hng thm c
trn nhiu ln khu lm bt gi mi lu hn
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Khng ch dng li , p ng quan nim rng sau khi thp, tn hng phi
qun v khng rng mi c lc, nhiu c s sn xut ngm que tm hng vo ha
cht, ch yu l axit photphoric (H3PO4) v tm cc loi ha cht vo bt hng gip
cho tn hng c mu v t ri xung sau khi t. Vic s dng cc loi hng s
dng ha cht ny c th khin ngi s dng b tn thng v th gic v khu gic, c
th nh chy nc mt, m mt, kh th... . Mt s ngi d ng vi ha cht cn c th
cm thy au u v bun nn.
Hnh 4.3 Sn xut nhang thm

Nguy him hn, trong qu trnh thp hng, tn hng c th ri vo cc loi thc
n dng th cng nh g, tht, xi, hoa qu..., cc ha cht ny s thm nhp trc tip
vo c th qua ng tiu ha khi n (hay cn gi l th lc) cc loi thc n ny l
mt tc hi ca vic s dng nhang (hng).
V vy khi mua nhang(hng) ta cn phi bit chn la nhng loi nhang c nh
sn xut v trnh bt v thch cc loi mi hng m hi n sc khe ca mnh.
4.7. ng dng trong nn thm.
Hng liu c dng trong nn t rt lu. V ngy nay n ang vn ln tm
cao mi, vi nhng mi hng tht c trng. Nhng mi hng to cm gic thoi
mi cho ngi s dng. Ty theo hng liu dng trong nn m khi t nhng loi nn
thm ny ln con ngi c cm gic tht th v.
Sp ong l mt loi nguyn liu t nhin, c mu, mi thm t nhin.
DHHC5LT
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Hnh 4.4 n cy sp ong

Nn c hng du s: C hng thm ngoi tri, nhng cn gi nh s nhanh
chng mang hng thm bay i. D sao th nn c hng du s dng ngoi tri l tt
nht, ngay c khi bn cha ngi thy th n l th ngn cn mnh m s quy nhiu
ca cn trng.
Hnh 4.5 Sp thm trang tr
Nn hnh cu thm mi tho mc
Nn cc c mi hng mt ong ngt ngo
DHHC5LT
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Mi hng thanh mt
ca tri da nhit i.
Mi hng hoa
nh nhng cho
khng gian sng
Nn cy to hng tri
cy nhit i
Nn cy ngn c mi
hng hoa ng ni
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 48
CHNG 5: MT S VN LU KHI S DNG HNG LIU

Ha cht l con dao hai li, cn phi l ngi s dng thng minh trnh b
li dao chm phi. Th nn, cc nh sn xut trc khi a sn phm lu hnh trn th
trng u phi c kim nghim ca c quan qun l Nh nc.
C mt thc t l, kh c th sn xut nn dng hon ton tinh du t nhin v loi
nguyn liu ny rt t. Tinh du t nhin li thng d bay hi nu khng pha thm cht
n nh.
V vy, a s nn, nhang thm s dng cc hng liu tng hp, trong s ,
khng loi tr c nhng hng liu c th gy ng c. Cn lu , trong qu trnh sng,
c th tch ly cc ha cht c mi theo thi gian n mc nhiu th khi ch ht thm
mt lng nh na cng c th gy nhng triu chng va nu m iu ny th mt phn
do s lm dng ca hng thm trong nhiu loi sn phm.
Mi thm ca hng liu c th gip bn t trng thi mt mi chuyn sang th
thi. Tuy nhin, nhiu loi mi thm li gy c cho c th bn, l yu t lm tng nguy
c ung th, d tt bm sinh, v sinh, tn thng h thn kinh.
Vic s dng hng thm ang ngy cng ph bin, nht l i vi gii n. Phi
k u tin l nc hoa vi nhiu chng loi, gi c t tm tm cho n... cht ngt.
Ngoi nc hoa, hng thm cn c cho vo rt nhiu loi sn phm khc nhau, t m
phm nh phn thm, ln kh mi, x phng tm, kem bi da... cho n cc sn phm
gia dng nh bt git, nc x vi, nc ra chn...
gc c nhn, hng thm gip con ngi cm thy d chu, th gin. gc
x hi, n h tr cho giao tip, gip ngi dng cm thy t tin hn khi tip xc vi
ngi khc. l cha k n c th tr thnh mt v kh b mt trong tnh cm v i
sng gi chn.
c s dng ph bin v c nhiu li ch l vy, nhng dn d cc nh khoa hc
li pht hin ra thm mt tri ca tm huy chng, trong phi k n s lm dng
ca c hai pha sn xut v tiu dng.
Mt kho st c C quan bo v mi trng M thc hin nm 1991 cho thy
c n 95% cc hng thm ang c s dng l ha cht c ngun gc t du m thay
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 49
v hng liu t nhin nh trc y. c bit, rt nhiu cht trong cc sn phm thm
c c tnh i vi c th, nh toluen, aceton, focmaldehit, dn xut ca benzen, metylen
clorua. Trong , nhiu cht c chng minh c th gy ung th, d tt bm sinh, v
sinh, tn thng h thn kinh.
Tuy kt qu ng bo ng nh vy nhng tnh trng lm dng cc ha cht to
hng thm hu nh khng c ci thin v nhiu l do. Th nht, khng nh thuc
c kim sot nghim ngt (phi th nghim trn ng vt, ri trn ngi qua nhiu giai
on mi c a ra s dng), cc loi m phm hoc sn phm gia dng c mi thm
c sn xut thoi mi hn nhiu. Th hai, hu ht cc nc, theo lut nh i vi
nc hoa, v thnh phn hng thm l b mt ca mi hng sn xut nn khng yu cu
ghi r tn ha cht m ch cn ghi hng thm (fragrance), d to k h cho vic s
dng cc loi ha cht kh kim sot.
Tc hi thng thy ca vic lm dng hng thm l gy kch pht cc cn hen
(suyn) nhiu khi rt trm trng c ngi ln ln tr em, thng xy ra i vi cc loi
ha cht c mi thm trong cc sn phm gia dng. Khoa hc cng pht hin mi lin
h ca ha cht thm vi tnh trng t t tr s sinh trong chng co tht ng th do
d ng. Tnh trng d ng cn c th xy ra khi dng nhng cht c hng thm trn da,
dn n vim da tip xc, chm...
Ngoi vic tc ng trn da hoc ng h hp, cc ha cht to hng cn c th
thm qua da v tch ly trong c th, gy nhiu tc ng c hi. c bit, tr s sinh, do
da rt mng nn cc ha cht s d thm qua hn. C th tr cng non yu nn d b nh
hng hn nhiu.
Hng thm nhn to cn c th gy tnh trng nhy cm a ha cht, ngy cng
thng gp. Ngi b hi chng ny khi tip xc vi mt ha cht c mi no s b
nhc u (c khi rt trm trng), bun nn, mt mi, thm ch kch ng, mt nh
hng, ri lon hot ng c. Nhng mi gy tc hi ny c th l hng thm ngun
gc du m, c th l xng hoc mi nha trong xe hi.
Trong qu trnh sng, khi c th tch ly cc ha cht c mi theo thi gian n
mc nhiu th ch cn ht vo thm mt lng nh na cng c th gy nhng triu
chng va nu.
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V nhng l do trn, bn cn hn ch ti a vic s dng nhng sn phm c mi

thm ha cht. Nn s dng sn phm khng c mi thm hoc ch thm nh. i vi
nc hoa th tin no ca ny v cc loi nc hoa dng hng thin nhin s t hn
nhiu so vi nc hoa sn xut t ha cht.
Nu mun c mi hng trong nh, vic trng nhng loi cy c hoa thm trc
hin s gip mang li cho c gia nh hng thm an ton v mt khung cnh nng m.
DHHC5LT
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CHNG 6: TH TRNG HNG LIU TRONG V NGOI NC

Hip hi tinh du - hng liu - m phm cho bit, VN c quan h c mua ln bn
nguyn liu, sn phm ca ngnh hng c th ny vi khong 30 nc. Song, nghch l
l nhng nc mua hng ny li l nhng quc gia ti xut khu tr li sn phm tinh ch
cho VN vi gi tr cao gp nhiu ln.
Theo s liu thng k, nm 2003 Vit Nam xut khu c 852.000 USD tinh du
- hng liu v 2.875.000 USD m phm ch bin tng hp t tinh du - hng liu cc
loi nhng nhp khu tr li vi gi tr tng ng l 1.750.000 v 152.386.000 USD.
Nhu cu v tinh du v hng liu - m phm trn th gii tng nhanh do nhu cu
ngi dn ngy cng c xu hng quay tr v dng nhng hp cht t nhin trong hng
liu - m phm, thc phm. Trung Quc v n l 2 quc gia c sn lng v xut
khu tinh du - hng liu ln nht th gii nhng hin nay cng phi nhp thm tinh
du v xy dng nhng nh my sn xut n hng v m phm ln p ng yu
cu s dng trong nc v xut khu.
Hng liu s dng cho m phm v thc phm hm cha trong tinh du cc loi
nh: bc h, hng nhu, bch n, hng qu, hoc hng, qu, hi, s cc loi... Ngoi
ra, cn c nhng loi him hoi nh x x, hng lau, trm tr, trm hng. y l ngun
nguyn liu c bn tng hp ra nhiu hp cht t nhin quan trng cho cng nghip
hng liu - m phm. Cc hng dc phm trn th gii ngy cng c nhu cu nhiu
loi tinh du cha cc cht cha c tng hp nhn to nh citronellal, geraniol, citral...
Cc nghin cu cho thy, nhng nguyn liu ny u ang c trong cc loi cy
c thc vt phong ph ca Vit Nam. C nc c n 300 loi cy tinh du c thu
thp, trong c n 50 loi cy c trng mang tnh sn xut hng ha. Cc ngnh
cng nghip thc phm, hng liu, m phm, y t my chc nm nay nghin cu,
u t pht trin cc cy tinh du hng liu v tng bc hnh thnh mng li tiu th
v xut nhp khu, to cc mt hng c gi tr cao. Trong hai thp k 80 v 90 cy trm,
bch n chanh c trng ng Thp Mi; cy s Java c trng cc nng
trng min ng v Ty Nguyn ch bin tinh du xut khu nhng cui cng cc
c s ny u phi gii th v khng th t ng c trn th trng th gii. Mt s
doanh nghip bc u u t trang thit b v nng cao k thut chng ct, chit xut
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 52
vi mong mun chim lnh th phn trong nc v xut khu nhng cui cng u tan r
v thiu s lin kt.
V lu thng, phn phi tinh du - hng liu - m phm hin nay ch yu do cc
doanh nghip t chc phn phi iu tit v gi c, chng loi trn a bn rng khp c
nc theo mt mng li ring, mnh ai ny bit. Mt s nh kinh doanh do khng c
chuyn mn lm th trng mt n nh v chu nhiu thua thit. Mt tn tinh du qu
sn xut Qung Nam, Qung Ngi nu xut khu ng ch c th em v c ngn USD
nhng thng thng chuyn tay nhau ch bn vi gi vi triu ng cng khng c ai
mua v khng c nhu cu. Tng t nh vy, sn phm tinh du trm hng, theo thng
tin c gi l 5.000 USD/kg du trm, nhng thc t, nhiu lng sn xut th cng
Qung Nam th chng ct v em tiu th trn th trng TP.HCM nhng sn phm
ch c tr vi gi r mt.
Ngnh tinh du - hng liu - m phm Vit Nam ang m ca nhng trong thc
t li thiu s qun l ch o ng b. Tin s Nguyn Vn Minh, Thng trc Vn
phng Hip hi tinh du - hng liu - m phm pha Nam cho rng y l mt ngnh
tng hp t trng trt n nghin cu, ch bin xut nhp khu, nn cn thit phi c cc
chng trnh di hn, trc ht l vic xc nh th trng v chin lc chim lnh th
trng tiu th sn phm bng cng tc xut nhp khu.
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 53
CHNG 7: KT LUN V XU HNG PHT TRIN MI HNG

Khoa hc chng minh rng, tinh du c kh nng tc ng mnh m ln cm
xc ca con ngi. Hn th, nh cu trc phn t nh b ca mnh, tinh du c th d
dng thm nhp vo su trong t bo da v tc ng ln t bo t nhng tng su.
T rt xa xa, ngi c i bit n tc dng cha tr bnh ca hng thm.
Nhng mi n nm 1926, nh cng ca nh ho hc ngi Php Gatefosso, nhn loi
mi c nhng nhn thc y v khoa hc v kh nng k diu ca mi hng.
Mn khoa hc hng nghn nm tui ny ng dng mi hng v tnh cht ho hc
ca cc tinh du thin nhin. Khong 400 loi tinh du c bit n v chit xut,
nhng ch c khong 50 loi c dng trong cha tr v m phm. Tu thuc loi tinh
du m ngi ta c th chit xut t hoa, l, v cy, r cy, thn cy hay ht.
Ngy nay, cc nc pht trin, liu php hng ang ngy cng c s dng
rng ri thay cho cc loi m phm truyn thng. Cng d hiu, trong mt x hi hin
i, ni m con ngi b nm bom bi loi stress hng ngy, th nhu cu chm sc
khng ch sc p ca c th m cn c s kho mnh ca tr tu thng qua cc gic quan
l rt ln.
c mt s nh sn xut m phm hng u ng dng liu php hng trong cc
sn phm ca h nh dng sn phm chm sc da The Body Shop (Anh), chm sc tc
chuyn nghip Kemon (Italy), Paul Mitchell (M), hay dng sn phm chm sc da
Sarbec (Php).
Ti Vit Nam, cc nh sn xut nhng sn phm ph thng nh Lux, Unza cng
ng dng liu php hng mc nht nh. Trong dng hng nhp khu, nhn
hiu The body shop mi ch c hng sch tay, cn Sarbec c mt chnh thc vi mt
dng sn phm chm sc da. Ch ring sn phm ng dng liu php hng c nhiu
loi nh mui tm khong cht bin, gel tm nc hoa, gel tm sc mu, sa tm bn.
Dng hng nhp khu sn phm tc chuyn nghip Kemon cng kh ni bt vi
cc sn phm Liu php hng v mt s cng ngh un dui siu nhanh.
Tuy tc dng ca tinh du l khng th ph nhn, hiu qu ca liu php hng
ph thuc ln vo loi tinh du, m c ca tinh du, cng ngh chit xut v kh
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 54
nng ca nh sn xut. Chn ng sn phm s gip bn p ln, mt v p su thm

khng ch l t ln da bn.
DHHC5LT
P a g e | 55

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B CNG THNG

TRNG I HC CNG NGHIP TP. H CH MINH

CHUYN CHUYN NGNH HA

MT S NG DNG CA HNG LIU

Ging vin hng dn : Th.s HUNH TH VIT H

NHN XT CA GING VIN HNG DN

Th.s Hunh Th Vit H

3.1.3. Hp cht c hng tnh dng ancol..............................................................................29

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

CHNG 1: GII THIU V LCH S MI HNG

Hnh 1.1 - Hnh nh di ch kho c c lin quan n mi hng.

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

Bc sang th k 19, ngnh ha hc c th tng hp cc cht thm nhn to bt

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

CHNG 2: NHNG MI HNG C TRONG T NHIN

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

2.1.2. Alcol, Phenol, Etherphenol.

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

2.1.3 Aldehyde, Ceton, Ester.

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

2.1.4. Cc hp cht khc.

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

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2.2. Mi hng c ngun gc t ng vt.

Hnh 2.1 - C voi

Hnh 2.2 - Chn hng v cy hng

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

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Hnh 2.4 - Mo Ethiopia

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

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2.3.2 Tch hp cht dn sut Phenol

2.3.3 Tch cc hp cht d kt tinh

2.3.4 Tch cc hp cht Aldehyd

GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

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GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

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GVHD: Ths. Hunh Th Vit H

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh

Tiu lun chuyn ngnh ha

Hnh 2.5 - Hoa hng Rosa damascena v tinh du hoa hng

Trng H Cng Nghip Tp. H Ch Minh