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BIDAR AS A TOURISM DESTINATION

CHAPTER 1 1.1 INTRODUCTION


Bidar is a district of Karnataka state in southern India. The historic city of Bidar is the administrative centre of the district. The district is located in the northeastern corner of the state, near the borders with Andhra Pradesh to the east and Maharashtra to the north and west. Gulbarga district lies to the south. Bidar is 120 km from Andhra Pradesh's capital Hyderabad. Till 1956, Bidar was part of Hyderabad State. The name of Bidar appears to be derived from 'bidiru' which means bamboo. The place seems to have been known for bamboo clusters in the past, came to be known as 'Bidaroor' and then 'Bidare', 'Bidar'. Though there are other versions of origin, the name 'Bidarooru' seems to be more near one and authenticated by contemporary literary works. In ancient time, Bidar formed an important part of the kingdom of Vidharba, referred to in the Mahabharata. It became the part of the Chalukyan Empire in the 10th century. Bidar was the capital of the Bahmani kings from 1428 till it later passed into the hands of the Barid Shahi dynasty. There are some beautiful specimens of typical Muslim art and architecture here. Bidar witnessed many upheavals during the early medieval period. It was taken over by the Yadavas of Devangiri and later by the Kakatiyas of Warangal in the 14th century. It then became a part of the Bahamani kingdom in the 14th century. The Bidar Sultanate was absorbed by the Bijapur Sultanate to the west in 1619, which was in turn conquered by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1686.Bidar became part of the dominions of the Nizam of Hyderabad from 1724 to 1948, when Hyderabad was annexed to India to become Hyderabad state. In 1956, it became a part of Mysore state, later renamed Karnataka. Bidar, along with Gulbarga, Raichur and Koppal are collectively referred to as Hyderabad Karnataka. Bellary, though ceded by the Nizam to the British in 1796 AD, is also grouped together with these areas.

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Bidar has glorious chapters of past as capital of Chalukyas and later as kingdom of Bahmani's. Its achievements in statecraft are immense but stand surpassed by those in socio cultural and religious fields Viz., revolution by Jagadguru Basavanna, One of the five holy places of Sikhs in the form of Gurudwara Nanak Jhira, 15th Century Persian University of Mohammed Gawan and so on. The list is endless.

1.2 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY


The study is based on primary as well as secondary data. Primary data was collected using both qualitative as well as quantitative techniques. The following methods were used to get the data: Primary Data Consists of information gathered for some specific purposes and primary data is also that you collect through researches, surveys, questionnaires etc. (i) Interviews: formal, informal and in-depth; (ii) Case studies: simple and intensive; (iii) Group meetings: facilitated and non facilitated; (iv) Observations: simple and intensive; and

Secondary Data Secondary data consists of information that already exists somewhere having being collected for some purposes. (i) Documents related to Bidar Tourism; and (ii) Other literatures: reports, articles and books related to Bidar History and Tourism. We consulted and approached several libraries to collect reports, articles, notes related to Tourism with special reference to History of Bidar. These documents proved useful in

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understanding the position of different developmental schemes of Bidar Tourism regarding implementation, alternatives, solution, etc.

1.3 OBJECTIVES
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. To know the history of Bidar To understand the different dynasties ruled Bidar. To know the history of Bahamani Kingdom. To study the development of art and architecture during the rule of Bahamanis. To identify places of attractions that they mostly visit in Bidar To know the flow of tourist. To know why the tourist inflow varies from other destinations. To know the contribution of Bidar in Karnataka tourism. To check the role played by local tourism department and ASI. To check the recent development works taken up by ASI.

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CHAPTER 2 THEORETICAL KNOWLEDGE 2.1 INTRODUCTION TO TOURISM

According to WTO (World Tourism Organization) Tourism encompasses the activities of persons traveling and staying in places outside their usual environment for not more than one year for leisure, business and other purposes. In general tourism is defined as a person travel to his own residence at least 50kms (1way) and he has to stay overnight with payable accommodation. In order to understand tourism systematically it is very important to know various components which together make tourism happen. There are three major components in tourism. They are 1. Transportation 2. Attraction 3. Accommodation

1. Transportation : There can be no travel if there is no transportation. Travel involves movement of people from their origin to destination and it is possible only if there is some mode of transport. Connectivity is very important in tourism development this could be possible only if adequate transportation infrastructure is efficient, comfortable and in expensive. A tourist in order to get to his destination therefore needs some mode of transport. This may be a motor car, a coach, an aero plane, a ship or a train which enable a traveler to reach to a predetermined destination. In many countries tourism is developed only because of adequate major components. Especially a

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good transportation facility makes these countries to become a major tourist destination. The development of technology is caused for invention of new mode of transportation. Today a man can travel anywhere in the world with safety and also with inexpensive fare. 2. Attractions : Attraction is yet another important major component of it may include what it offers to tourist. The holiday destination may offer natural attractions like sunshine, scenic beauty and sporting facility. Man made attractions like historical monuments, archeological sites or any type of entertainment. The destination with attractions and amenities is the most important as these are very basic for tourism. Unless these are not there the tourist will not be motivated to go a particular place. However since interest and taste of tourist varies widely they might choose from a wide range of attractions available at various destinations all over the world. Types of Attractions: Traditions : National Festivals, Arts and Handicrafts, Music, Folklore, Native Life and Costumes. Cultural : Sites and areas of Archeological interest, Historical Buildings, Places of Historical Significance, Political and Educations Institutions, Religious Institutions etc. Scenic : National Parks, Wildlife, Flora and Fauna, Beach Resort, Mountain Resort. Etc. Entertainment : Participation and visiting Sports, Amusement and Recreation Parks, Cinemas, Night Life and Cruises Other Attractions: Climate, Health Resorts and SPAS

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3. Accommodation : Accommodation plays a central role and very basic tourist destination. WTO on its definition of tourist has stated that the tourist must spend at least one night in the destination visited to be qualified as a tourist. The availability of good accommodation makes a destination very popular tourist attraction. Accommodation provides hospitality and also tourists feel Home Away From Home. These are the three major components of tourism which motivate tourist to travel towards destinations. Along with these three major components there are various minor components which make tourism development they are very crucial they include 1. Travel agent 2. Tour Operator 3. Tourist Guide 4. Car Rental Companies 5. Shopping Complex 6. Health Centers etc.

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2.2 IMPORTANCE OF TOURISM IN INDIAN ECONOMY
Tourism is a powerful economic force providing employment, foreign exchange, income and tax revenue. The generators of economic impact for a city, estate, a country or a destination area or visitors their expenditure and the multiplier effect. The economic impact of tourism spending is a function of numbers of domestic and international visitors expenditure. Because goods and service provided to tourist are really inputs to the process of providing the experience demand for them is derived from demand for tourism. Some goods and services are complimentary and their demand is interrelated in a positive fashion. Package tours have the characteristics of putting all parts and services together, so they can become complementary. Competitions occur among tours, tour operator can maximize profits by selling tour of different values and costs in order to cater who has many people as possible along the demand. The number of people can be accommodated can be determined from the marginal cost of the tour and the marginal revenue to be derived from a given price level.

a) Employment Generation : The WTTC (World Tour and Travel Council) estimated that employment in the travel and tourism is 8.2% of the total employment. Tourism provides both direct and indirect employment. Firms such as hotel, restaurants, airlines, cruise liners and resorts provide direct employment because their employees are in contact with the tourist and provide tourist the experiences. Employees of firms providing goods and services to the direct employment firms such as aircraft manufacturing, construction firms and restaurant suppliers create direct employment.

b) Tourism increases tax revenue: Tourist must pay taxes like most other people. Because they come from other regions or countries, their expenditure represent an increased tax based for the host

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government in addition to usual sales tax. Tourist sometimes pays taxes less direct way. Airport taxes- exit fee, custom duty, and charges applied for granting Visa, these are just few examples of commonly used methods of taxing tourist. In some countries for instance the room rate at a hotel can be different for the tourist than for resident. Apart from these special cases the actual tax collected for m both tourism and residents increase because of tourism expenditure.

c) Income : Tourism stimulates the economy of the area in which the development occurs. Most of all in popular tourism destination local community were generating income by tourist expenditure. In international tourism the rate of expenditure will be more compared to domestic tourism. Service providers to tourist like local transportation, linkage, accommodation operator, entertainer, shopping complex etc. they can earn money from tourism activities.

d) Foreign exchange earnings: Earning of foreign exchange is one of the most major benefits of tourism. Many countries including India gives preferences to tourism because of its contributions towards Forex. International tourism defines a person must stay at least 24 hours and less than 1 year when length of stay of an international tourist increase his expenditure generates maximum foreign exchange to any host country in any tourist destination service provided to international tourist, the service provider will charge high.

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CHAPTER 3 THEORETICAL BACKGROUND 3.1 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND TOPOGRAPHY OF BIDAR
BIDAR town enjoys a picturesque situation, having been built on the brink of a plateau, and thus commanding lovely views of the lowlands (Talghat) towards the north and the east. Its latitude is 17 55' N., its longitude 77 32' E., and the height above the sea-level 2,330 feet. The climate is bracing and the temperature in the hottest season does not usually rise above 105. The distance of the town from Hyderabad is eighty-two miles, but the fringe of the Bidar plateau begins from Kamkol village, and the breast is reached when the visitor has passed a few miles beyond Akell. The plateau is an irregular oblong, twenty-two miles in length and twelve in extreme breadth, with an area of about one hundred and ninety square miles. The upper crust of the plateau is of laterite, a soft porous rock with limonitic surface. This crust varies in depth from 100 to 500 feet and rests on a bed of trap, which is of much harder texture and less pervious to water. The volume of water filtered during the monsoons through the laterite stratum is arrested by the trappean bed, and a nursery of springs is formed whose natural level of effluence is the line of contact of the two strata along the base of the cliffs of the plateau. The water in course of time frets out for itself an orifice and macerates and loosens portions of its rocky channel till a rift is produced. The rift gradually dilates into a ravine, and the ravine expands into a vale. These physical phenomena have provided Bidar with some charming sites. The most notable among them are the springs of PapNash ('destroyer of sins') and Sayyid-us-Sadat, and the flowered valley of Farah Bagh ('garden of joy'). The first two have lovely glens, while the last has a shady recess, at the head of which a streamlet gushes out from the cliff after flowing for a considerable distance in the womb of the rock. These sites will be described in greater detail in the sequel. The surface of the plateau presents wide stretches of red plains, either waved over by light dry grasses alive with coveys of partridges and herds of deer, or mottled by every sort of

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cultivation for which artificial irrigation is not essential. The laterite must everywhere be pierced nearly to the subjacent trap to reach the perennial springs, so that the wells in the vicinity of the edges of the tableland are of extraordinary depth. The stream-fed valleys and the tracts of mixed soil in the lowlands bear prodigally fruits and grains, canes and vines, and every variety of vegetable produce. Bidar is noted for its cattle and also for the rich quality of the butter made from their milk. To the ordinary visitor, however, the most attractive feature in the fauna of Bidar is the abundance of monkeys which run about freely in large troops amid the shady retreats and ruined abodes of the place. The species has a jet-black face, grey hair all over the body, and a long tail which helps it in swinging and leaping from branch to branch. It is called languor or hanuman (Semnopithecus), and is much larger in size than the more common brown monkeys or Bandar (Macaques) of Indian towns. These funny creatures, notwithstanding their predatory raids, enjoy considerable immunity from the people, the reason for this attitude apparently being the religious idea that they are the progeny of the sacred Hanuman or monkey god who helped Rama in vanquishing the ten-headed demon Ravana, and in liberating his beautiful wife, Sita, from the demon's possession. It was either this reverential regard of the people or the curiosity of the king himself in the antics and frolicsome gestures of these beasts that induced Nawab Nasirud-Daula Bahadur (1829-57) to issue farman sanctioning a handsome grant for the maintenance of the monkeys of Bidar. The grant is still continued, and the monkeys are fed under a large banyan tree near the gateway of the fort every day at noon. It is a pleasing sight to see them approaching the guard who distributes food. Bidar is the head-quarters of the district of that name. It is now accessible from Hyderabad by both rail and road.

CLIMATE
The climate of this district is characterized by general dryness throughout the year, except during the southwest monsoon. The summer season is from the middle of February to the first week of June. This is followed by southwest monsoon season, which continues till the end of September. The months of October and November constitute the post-monsoon or retreating monsoon season. The winter season is from December to middle of February and the temperature begins to decrease from the end of November, December is the coldest month with mean

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daily maximum temperature of 27.3 C and mean daily minimum of 16.4 C. From the middle of the February, both day and night temperatures begin to rise rapidly. May is the hottest month with mean daily maximum temperature of 38.8 C and mean daily minimum of 25.9 C. With the withdrawal of southwest monsoon in the first week of October, there is slight increase in day temperature but night temperature decreases steadily. After October, both day and night temperatures decrease progressively. The highest maximum temperature recorded at Bidar was on 8-5-1931(43.3 degree C) and the lowest minimum was on 5-1-1901(3.9 degree C).

THE PEOPLE
Bidar district, which occupies a central position in Deccan plateau, is mixed with several racial strains, ethnic groups and socio-cultural clusters. Long after the fusion of Dravidian and Aryan elements, there was, in the medivial times, a continuous influx of batches of various types like the Turks, Mughals, Iranians, Afghans and Arabs who were welcomed and encouraged to settle down in the area. As a result of these admixtures there has been a cultural mosaic. Bidar is predominantly an agricultural district and a major portion of the area is covered under agricultural practices. Mainly dry crops are grown, Jowar being the major constituent. Green gram, Bengal gram, Black gram, Paddy, Groundnut, Wheat, Red gram, Sugarcane and chilies are other agricultural crops. The average size of the land holdings in the district is 6.2 hectares as against the state average of 4.4 hectares.

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3.2 BRIEF HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF BIDAR


LEGEND has associated Bidar with the ancient kingdom of Vidarbha, to which references are found in early Hindu literature. But the situation of the latter kingdom has been determined by modern research, and it is now considered that Vidarbha occupied the country which is called Berar. The rulers of the kingdom are supposed to have been vassals of the Andhra rajas, whose dominions covered the plateau of the Deccan and at times extended over a much wider area. Bidar, which is some two hundred miles south-east of Paithan, the capital of the Andhra kings, must have been included in the territory of the latter, and it has been associated with Vidarbha apparently on account of the similarity in names Bidar and Vidarbha. The identity of Bidar with Vidarbha was, however, a common belief in Firishta's time, for him, when referring to the romances of the early rulers of Bidar, describes the love-story of Nala and Damayanti; and the latter was undoubtedly the daughter of Raja Bhima of Vidarbha. In the excavations carried out recently by the Archaeological Department, Hyderabad, some sculptures and broken tablets bearing inscriptions have been found in the Bidar fort; but they do not carry back the history of the place earlier than the 10th century A.D., when it was apparently included in the kingdom of the later Chalukyas (A.D. 974-1190), whose capital, Kalyani, is only thirty-six miles west of Bidar. The power of the Chalukyas, however, rapidly declined during the rule of the last three kings of the dynasty, and a large portion of their territory was occupied by the Yadavas of Deogiri and the Kakatlyas of Warangal, whose kingdoms were at the zenith of their glory in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Bidar was apparently annexed to the Kakatiya kingdom, for in A.D. 1322, when Prince Ulugh Khan marched upon Warangal; he besieged and conquered the town of Bidar, which was on the frontiers of Telingana. An inscription of Ghiyath-ud-Din Tughluq, dated A.D. 1323, recently found at Kalyani, shows that the latter town was also conquered by Ulugh Khan in this expedition, but the absence of Kalyanis name in this connection in contemporary history shows that Bidar at that time was a more important town than Kalyani, the glory of which seems to have faded with the decline of the Chalukyas. In this inscription Kalyani is mentioned as only a qasba, or minor town.

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The historian Dia-ud-Din Barni, in his account of the conquest of Warangal by Prince Muhammad (Ulugh Khan), gives further details of the siege of Bidar by mentioning the occupation of the outer defenses of the fort by the Prince. This fort, dating from Hindu times, was subsequently either demolished by Ahmad shah Wali al-Bahmani, when he built the present fort after making Bidar the capital of his kingdom, or incorporated by him in the new fortifications and lines of defenses. In 1341 Muhammad bin Tughluq honored Shihab-ud-Din of Multan with the title of Nusrat Khan and conferred on him the government of Bidar with its dependencies on the condition that he should pay a revenue of one Crore of rupees annually into the king's treasury. Nusrat Khan could not fulfill this condition, and in A.D. 1345 he rebelled. The king ordered Qutlugh Khan, the governor of Daulatabad, to chastise the rebel. Qutlugh Khan expelled Nusrat Khan from his government, but at that time, on account of the weakening of the king's authority, general disorder prevailed in the Deccan, and Amir Ali, one of the new officers who was sent from Daulatabad to collect the revenue of Gulbarga, raised an army and occupied Gulbarga and Bidar on his own account. Muhammad bin Tughluq again deputed Qutlugh Khan to subdue the rebellion. When the latter reached the confines of Bidar, Amir Ali gave him battle, but was defeated and obliged to shut himself up in the city. He later capitulated, and Qutlugh Khan sent him a prisoner to the imperial court. In 1347 Zafar Khan, a 'centurion' whose real name was Hasan, appeared before Bidar with 20,000 horses, but did not attack the place until a large number of troops were sent to his assistance by the Raja of Warangal. A fierce battle ensued in which the royalists were defeated and Imad-ul-Mulk, son-in-law to Muhammad bin Tughluq, was killed. After this battle Zafar Khan, at the suggestion of Nasir-ud-Din Ismail, was unanimously elected king by the people of the Deccan. The new monarch divided his empire into four provinces, of which Bidar was one, its governor receiving the title of Azam-i-Humayun ('the auspicious chief). Bidar was apparently governed well by Azam-i-Humayun during the reign of Ala-udDin, but no reference to it occurs in history until the reign of Muhammad Shah, the second Bahmani king who, during his expedition for the complete conquest of Telingana, detached Azam-i-Humayun with the troops of Bidar for the subjugation of Golconda. As a result of the expedition the hill-fort of Golconda with its dependencies was ceded hi perpetuity to the

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Bahmani king, who committed it to the charge of Azam-i-Humayun. Muhammad Shah, on his return from this campaign, disbanded his troops at Bidar and halted there for three months. The salubrity of its, climate and the picturesqueness of its environment were apparently the reasons that induced the king to break his journey at the place. Bidar nourished as a provincial town during the reigns of the early Bahmani kings, and it is mentioned among the great cities of the Deccan wherein schools for orphans were established by Muhammad Shah II (A.D. 1378-97). - Later the fortress of Bidar appears in history as the well-protected stronghold wherein the unfortunate hams-ud-Din, the seventh Bahmani king, was interned to pass the rest of his life in captivity. The turning-point in the history of Bidar came about the close of the reign of Firoz Shah (A.D. 1422), when the two slaves Hoshiyar and Bidar, who were jealous of the popularity of Prince Ahmad, led an expedition with the cognizance of the king against the prince. The royalists were defeated in the precincts of Bihar, either at Khanapur or at Nimatabad, the former being some ten miles west and the latter only three miles south-west of Bidar. This injudicious action cost Firoz Shah his throne, and Prince Ahmad shortly after his accession made Bidar the capital of his kingdom. Historians have given various reasons for the transfer of the capital from Gulbarga, among which the old Indian tale of the hunt of a fox by dogs and the extraordinary courage of the latter also occurs. This tale is not worthy of consideration, for it had been told by Indian writers in connation with the foundation of other ancient towns. The real reasons for the choice of Bidar were its central position in the kingdom, its natural defenses, and its invigorating climate. The three principal divisions of the Deccan Telingana, the Carnatic, and Maharashtra converge towards Bidar ; and the situation of the city on the brink of a plateau about two hundred feet above the adjoining plains would have made it difficult to attack in those days. The perennial springs and the abundance of verdure and fruit trees, which are still the attractive features of Bidar, must have further influenced the king in preferring it to Gulbarga for the seat of his government. The transfer led to the rebuilding of the old Hindu fortress on an extensive scale and capable of mounting cannon, the use of which had been recently introduced, and against which

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the previous defenses were practically useless. The king built for himself a large palace. Following the example of the king, the nobles of the court and the important State officials built houses for their residence, and a beautiful city arose, which rapidly acquired fame for the salubrity of its climate, the strength of its defenses, and the magnificence of its buildings. Ahmad Wali al-Bahmani had great military and administrative capacity, and during his reign he extended the limits of the Bahmani kingdom by his campaigns against the King of Malwa in the north, the Rai of Warangal in the east, the Raja of Vijayanagar in the south, and the King of Gujarat in the north-west. By these campaigns a large portion of the Konkan and a considerable tract of Berar were annexed to the Bahmani kingdom, and vast sums in cash and large treasures of jewels and valuable commodities realized as tribute or indemnity of war. These riches brought opulence to Bidar, the new capital, and it soon became a centre of culture and progress. Ahmad Wall's religious propensities attracted to Bidar some divines of repute from Persia, the most important of whom were the son and grandson of Shah Nimat-Ullah, the famous saint of Kirman. During Ahmad Shahs reign Bidar was also the scene of great revelry and festivities when Prince Ala-ud-Din was married to the daughter of Nasir Khan Faruqi of Asir. The celebrations lasted for two months, and the city was beautifully decorated for the occasion. This alliance strengthened Ahmad shahs government in Ramgarh, Mahur, and Kallam against the insurrections of the local chiefs and the aggression of the Malwa king. Ahmad Shah died in A.D. 1436 and was succeeded by his son Ala-ud-Din, who built a lofty dome over the grave of his father. The tomb is situated at Ashtur, some two miles to the east of Bidar city. The ceiling and walls of this tomb have been decorated with paintings in Muslim style composed of calligraphic devices or floral designs. These paintings are considered to be unique in India for their beauty and elegance. Ala-ud-Din built a large hospital at Bidar and staffed it with expert Muslim and Hindu physicians. A large endowment was made for the cost of medicines and other expenses of the hospital. 'Ala-ud-Din also laid out a delightful garden and built a beautiful palace at Nimatabad, a suburb of Bidar. He also built the tomb of Shah KhalilUllah and adorned it with carved stone-work and encaustic tiles. 'Ala-ud-Din was a cultured but pleasure-loving king, and his reign was occupied by intrigues at the court and rebellions in the outlying provinces of the dominions. The most crushing defeat sustained by Ala-ud-Din's army

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was, however, in the Konkan, where a large number of troops under Khalf Hasan Basari, the accomplished governor of Daulatabad, were cut to pieces by Sirka, a Konkan chief, and Shankar Rai the Raja of Khelna. Ala-ud-Din died of a wound in his shin in A.D. 1458 and was succeeded by his son, Humayun, who is styled Zalim ('the Cruel') in history on account of his atrocious deeds. 'Ala-ud-Dm was buried at Ashtur near the tomb of his father. The magnificent mausoleum which still stands over his grave was apparently built by Humayun. The tile-work of this monument has suffered much through climatic conditions, but wherever it is intact the designs and the color schemes are most pleasing. The dark picture of Humayun's deeds painted by historians seems to be considerably overdrawn. He was apparently of a peevish nature, perhaps duo to indifferent health, for he reigned only a little over three years and died at the early age of twenty-one years. He had rivals for the throne in his own family from the beginning, and when they openly rebelled against him and tried to oust him he showed no mercy to them or to the nobles who had espoused their cause. Humayun appointed his son Nizam as his successor during his lifetime, and as the boy was only eight years old he ordered that a Council of Regency should transact the affairs of the kingdom. According to Humayun's command the Council was to consist of Khwaja Mahmud Gawan, Khwaja Jahan Turk, and the Queen-mother. Khwaja Mahmud Gawan had entered the service of the State during the reign of Humayun's father, but distinguished himself by his fidelity to the son. Humayun died hi A.D. 1461, and his remains were interred in a tomb built in close vicinity to his father's mausoleum. The dome of Humayun's tomb has been destroyed in recent times by lightning, an incident which people of Bidar regard divine punishment of Humayun's misdeeds. The debris of the dome was lying at the site until A.D. 1917, but it has now been removed by the Archaeological Department of Hyderabad and the damage done to the walls of the building made good by suitable repairs. The Queen-mother appointed Mahmud Gawan to be Prime Minister and Khwaja Jahan Turk to be Controller of the State (Vakil-us-Saltanat), and with their joint advice, which was obtained through a woman called Mah Bano, began to administer the kingdom on behalf of her young son. Both these ministers were extremely capable and loyal, but in a country where autocratic government was in vogue and the safety of the kingdom depended upon the personal qualities of the ruler, the administration of the Bahmani kingdom by a Council of Regency gave

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a welcome opportunity for the neighboring rulers and chiefs to invade. The first aggressor to march with this object was the Rai of Orissa, who was joined in his expedition by some refractory chiefs of Telingana. The Rai entered the dominions from Rajahmundry and pushed on up to a place some twenty miles from Bidar. There the Bahmani army met the invaders and attacked them with such valor that the Rai of Orissa was defeated and had to pay an indemnity of five lakhs of silver coins. After the repulse of the Rai of Orissa the next aggressor to appear on the scene was Mahmud Khalji, the King of Malwa, who invaded the kingdom shortly afterwards from the north. Although the young Bahmani king, accompanied by his ministers and several accomplished generals, marched from Bidar to oppose the invader, their resistance proved unavailing, and Nizam Shah had to flee for his life to the capital. Mahmud Khalji marched on triumphantly to Bidar, and ultimately laid siege to the city. Nizam Shah, under the advice of the Queen-mother and Mahmud Gawan, committed the charge of the citadel of Bidar to Mallu Khan Deccani and himself retired to Firozabad. The city of Bidar was captured by Mahmud Khalji seventeen days after the departure of Nizam Shah, but the fort still held out. In the meantime Mahmud Gawan had written for help to Mahmud Shah of Gujarat, who readily complied with the request and marched towards the frontier. Later he placed a division of twenty thousand cavalry and several of his trusted officers at the disposal of Mahmud Gawan, who had gone to welcome him on behalf of the Bahmani king. Sultan Mahmud Khalji, who had been unable to capture the citadel, on hearing of the approach of the Gujarat army raised the siege and retreated precipitately towards Malwa. Nizam shah dispatched ambassadors with valuable presents to Mahmud Shah of Gujarat to show his gratitude to the latter for his timely aid. The King of Malwa again invaded the Deccan in the following year, advancing as far as Daulatabad, but was once more compelled to retreat through the help afforded by Mahmud shah of Gujarat. During the occupation of the city of Bidar by Sultan Mahmud Khalji of Malwa several of its buildings were destroyed. These were, however, built afresh by Nizam Shah when he returned to the capital. The young King died suddenly in A.D. 1463, at a time when the Queen-mother had arranged for his wedding, and a nuptial feast with due pomp and magnificence was being prepared. Ho was buried near the tomb of his father. The next Bahmani king after Nizam Shah was Muhammad Shah III, again a lad nine years old. The Council of Regency appointed during the reign of the last king continued to

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transact the affairs of government. Khan Julian Turk, however, acquired unlimited power and influence in every department of the State, and keeping Mahmud Gawan, his colleague, employed in the administration of the frontiers, he became the de facto ruler. The Queen-mother, who had a penetrating mind and also possessed considerable political capacity, could not tolerate the aggrandizement of Khan Jahan and arranged to have him put to death. Muhammad Shah III received a good literary education under Sadr-i-Jahan Shustari, a celebrated scholar of the age, and he is considered by the historians to have been the most learned prince, next to Firoz Shah, among the Bahmani kings. He gave promise of military prowess as well at a fairly early age, and after his emancipation from the tutelage of his mother and the minister, Mahmud Gawan, his first act was to send an expedition for the conquest of the fort of Kherla, which had been a bone of contention between the kings of Malwa and the Deccan. The fort was captured, but subsequently a treaty was signed, in accordance with which the fort was restored to the King of Malwa and a mutual understanding was reached between the two monarchs to refrain from molesting each other's dominions. In A.D. 1469 Mahmud Gawan led an expedition to the Konkan against some refractory chiefs, who were subdued, and finally the port of Goa, which previously belonged to the Raja of Vijayanagar, was captured. Mahmud Gawan established a strong garrison in the fort of Goa, and when he returned to Bidar after an absence of three years, which the expedition had occupied, the king honored him by a visit of a whole week and conferred upon him the highest titles with a suit of his own robes. Other triumphs secured during the reign were the subjugation of Vishagarh in the north, of Condapalli and Rajahmundry in the north-east, and of the country as far as Conjeevaram in the south. The success of the reign was, however, marred by a tragedy which was caused by the intrigue of some vicious officials of the court who had become jealous of Mahmud Gawan's popularity and power. These persons forged a letter over the seal of the minister, addressing it to the Rai of Orissa, who was at that time hostile to the king. The letter was shown to the king at a time when he was intoxicated with liquor, and suspecting treason he forgot all his previous regard for the minister and gave orders for his immediate execution. The orders were carried out, but the death of the minister caused general alarm and distrust, even among the most devoted

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officers of the State, who refrained from attending the court when the king invited them. This state of affairs led to the weakening of Muhammad shah's authority and to the gradual disruption of the kingdom. Mahmud Gawan was perhaps the greatest statesman and general known in the history of the Deccan. The chief reforms introduced during his ministry were: first, the division of the Bahmani kingdom into eight provinces instead of four as previously established, which had become of unmanageable size owing to the extension of the kingdom ; secondly, the assignment of only one fort in each province to the control of the governor, and the retention of other forts of the province, as regards appointment of officers, troops, equipment, munitions, and payment of salaries, in the hands of the king himself; thirdly, the increase in the salaries of army officers, to what were very substantial rates of pay, for Briggs, in a footnote to his translation of Firishta, writes that the pay of a body of five hundred cavalry maintained under the Bahmani kingdom in A.D. 1470 was fifty per cent, more than was necessary to keep an equal number under the British Government in 1828. Mahmud Gawan was a pious person and was devoted to learning. At Bidar he built a school which stands to this day, and the architecture of which is perhaps unique in India. It was staffed by learned men and divines from various countries of the East, and it contained a large collection of manuscripts for the use of professors and students. Mahmud Gawan was also a poet and a good prose writer, and a collection of his letters called Riyad-ul-lnsha is still extant in manuscript form. Muhammad Shah deeply repented his indiscreet haste in ordering the execution of the minister, and it is mentioned by historians that the sorrow caused by the tragedy undermined his health. He died in A.D. 1482, a year after the minister's death, at the early age of twenty-eight years. His remains were interred, in a tomb built near the mausoleum of his brother, Nizam shah, at Ashtur. Muhammad Shah III was succeeded by his son; Mahmud Shah Who was only twelve years old when he ascended the throne. The reign of Mahmud Shah, which was a long one, was a period of troubles and civil wars which ended in the subversion of the Bahmani dynasty. The king was a mere tool in the hands of his minister, Nizam-ul-Mulk Baihri, and disturbances broke

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out frequently in the city of Bidar and other parts of the kingdom. During the king's absence on an expedition to Telingana, Nizam-ul-Mulk determined to seize as much of the royal treasure as possible, and then join his son, who was governor of Junir. The plot was discovered by the governor of Bidar, and Nizam-ul-Mulk was arrested and executed. In the year A.D. 1490 the Deccanis and Abyssinians conspired to subvert the influence which the foreigners possessed over the king. Pasand Khan, combining with the Deccanis, agreed to assassinate Mahmud Shah and place another prince of the royal family on the throne. The king narrowly escaped with his life, and for three days afterwards continuous attacks were made by his troops upon the conspirators and their forces in the city. In order to celebrate his escape from this danger, Mahmud Shah held a magnificent festival lasting forty days, and went in solemn procession through the city, the streets of which were handsomely decorated for the occasion. After this the king neglected the affairs of his government, leaving them entirely to the direction of his favorites. Khafi Khan and Firishta have given vivid accounts of the morals of the court at the time. Qasim Barid, who had succeeded Nizam-ul-Mulk Baihri as minister, had the king completely in his power, and practically ruled over the kingdom. During this time Malik Ahmad Baihri Nizam-ul-Mulk, Fath-Ullah Imad-ul-Mulk, and Yusuf Adil Shah proclaimed their independence in Ahmadnagar, Berar, and Bijapur respectively, founding the Nizam Shah, the Imad Shahi, and the Adil Shahi dynasties. A little later Qasim Barid also proclaimed his independence in Ausa and Qandhar, but the king made terms with him, and in A.D. 1492 confirmed him as Amir-i-Jumla, or Prime Minister. Thereafter the Bahmani ceased in fact to be a ruling dynasty, though Mahmud Shah had four nominal successors in Bidar, Ahmad Shah II, Ala-ud-Din Shah III, Wali-Ulla, and last of all Kalim-Ullah, who died a fugitive in Ahmadnagar. Mahmud Shah has left several buildings to his credit at Bidar, the most important of which is the suite of rooms attached to the Gumbad Darwaza, which is referred to as the Shah Burj ('royal bastion') by Firishta. He writes that the king, after his escape from Pasand Khan's plot, caused a splendid building to be erected on the royal tower which he regarded as auspicious. This building became his favorite abode during the latter part of his life. Mahmud Shah also built the second gateway of the Bidar Fort, which is popularly called the Sharza Darwaza or 'the tiger's gate', on account of the effigies of two tigers carved thereon. The facade of the gateway is decorated with

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beautiful tile-work and according to an inscription, which can still be read, it was built in A.D. 1503. Mahmud Shah's mausoleum, built at Ashtur, is a monument of considerable dimensions. It was apparently erected by the king himself during his lifetime. The tombs of his successors, who were mere puppets in the hands of their Baridi ministers, are insignificant structures and possess no architectural interest. According to Firishta, Qasim Barid was of Turkish origin but domiciled in Georgia. He was brought as a young boy to the Deccan by Khwaja Shihab-ud-Din 'Ali Yazdi and offered for service to Muhammad Shah BaihmanI III. Qasim Barid was an expert in handwriting and also played well on musical instruments. In the service of Muhammad Shah he distinguished himself in subduing the Marathas, and married the daughter of Sabaji to his son Amir Barid. Qasim Barid obtained the office of Vakil ('Administrator') during the reign of Mahmud Shah BaihmanI, but he did not behave in a respectful manner towards his royal master. He died in A.D. 1504 and was succeeded by Amir Barid, who obtained still greater control over the members of the royal family. Amir Barid was constantly at war with the newly established Bijapur kings, and in A.D. 1529 Ismail Adil Shah marched at the head of a large force to Bidar, which he blockaded. Amir Barid, entrusting the defense of the citadel to his eldest son, withdrew to the fortress of Udgir. After the blockade had lasted for some time the besieged made a sortie, and a sharp engagement ensued under the walls of the town. While the siege was still in progress Ala-ud-Din Imad Shah came from Berar to intercede with Ismail Adil Shah for Amir Barid, but was informed that the injuries which the intriguer had inflicted on Bijapur could not be pardoned. Shortly afterwards Amir Barid was taken prisoner while in a fit of intoxication, and carried to the Bijapur king. He begged that his life might be spared and promised to induce his son to give up the fortress of Bidar and the treasures of the Bahmani family. The son refused to give up the fortress, upon which the Bijapur king issued orders for Amir Band to be trampled to death by an elephant. However, his life was spared, and after a second parley with his son the garrison evacuated the place and returned to Udgir, taking a good deal of the Bahmani jewels with them. Ismail now entered the fort and distributed the treasures amongst his nobles, troops, Ala-ud-Din Imad Shah, and other neighboring chiefs, reserving none for himself, to show that he did not make war for the riches of the Bahmani family.

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Amir Barid was in attendance on Ismail Adil Shah at the sieges of Raichur and Mudgal in A.D. 1530, and after the conclusion of the campaign the Bijapur king restored Bidar to him on condition that ho should give up Kalyani and Qandhar to Bijapur. Amir Barid died at Daulatabad in A.D. 1542, and was succeeded by his son Ali Barid, who was the first of the dynasty to adopt the title of Shah. He was a cultured prince, especially fond of poetry, calligraphy, and architecture. He built his own tomb at Bidar, which was completed in A.U. 1576, three years before his death. The architecture of this building is very pleasing, being different from the massive and somewhat somber style of the tombs of the Bahmani kings. Another delightful building erected by this king is the Rangin Mahal ('painted palace'), which has lovely tile and mother-of-pearl decoration. This was apparently built by a Persian architect, for some of the verses inscribed on this palace have a striking resemblance to those painted on contemporary buildings in Persia. During the reign of Ali Barid Bidar was attacked by Murtada Nizam Shah, who wanted to bestow it as jagir upon his favorite general, Sahib Khan. Ibrahim Qutb Shah, being covetous of a portion of the Barid Shah territory, sent troops from Golconda to help Murtada in besieging the city. Ali Barid was for some time in great straits until he applied for help to Ali Adil Shah of Bijapur. The latter sent a thousand horse at once, and promised to send more on certain conditions. At this time Murtada Nizam Shah, hearing of the rebellion of his son in Ahmadnagar, relinquished the siege and hastily returned to his capital. Another important historical event of Ali Barid's reign was his joining the confederacy of the Deccan kings in the expedition which was led against Rama Raja, the ruler of Vijayanagar. Ali Barid took an active part in the campaign, and in the final arrangement of troops for the battle he, with Ibrahim Qutb Shah, occupied the left wing. The result of the battle, which was fought at Talikota, is well known, but at the same time history is silent as to the territorial gains which Ali Barid secured through this joint triumph of the Deccan kings. Ali Barid died in A.D. 1680 and was succeeded by his son, Ibrahim Barid, who ruled for seven years. His tomb adjoins that of his illustrious father and suffers by comparison with the latter. In A.D. 1587 Ibrahim Barid was succeeded by Qasim Barid II, of whose reign no great event is mentioned in history. After the battle of Talikota the rival dynasties of Ahmadnagar,

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Bijapur, and Golconda became much too powerful for the Bidar kings, who during their later days led a precarious existence, and ultimately their kingdom, which had dwindled to a small principality, was absorbed in the Bijapur kingdom. In A. D. 1591 Qasim Barid II was nominally succeeded by his infant son, but a relative, Amir Barid, usurped the throne. Amir Barid was, however, expelled in A.D. 1601 by Mirza Ali Barid, another member of the family, and compelled to fly to Bhagnagar (Hyderabad). Firishta, who concluded his account of the Barid Shahi kings in 1018 H. (A.D. 1609) writes that Mirza Ali Barid was reigning at Bidar in that year. According to Basatin he was succeeded by Amir Barid, who was apparently the third sovereign of this name in the dynasty. In A.D. 1619 Ibrahim Adil Shah II marched against Bidar to punish Amir Barid, who had maintained the family tradition of hostility to Bijapur. Bidar fell, and Amir Barid and his sons were made captive by Ibrahim, who carried them to Bijapur, where they ended their days under surveillance, Bidar being annexed to the Adil Shahi kingdom. Bidar remained a part of the Adil Shahi territory until Aurangzeb began to devise plans for the subjugation of all the kingdoms of the Deccan. Early in A.D. 1656, this prince, then viceroy of the Deccan for his father, the emperor Shah Jahan, taking with him his son, Muhammad Muazzam, and his generals, Mir Jumla and Iftikhar Khan, marched from Aurangabad to Bidar. The place was at that time governed by Malik Marjan, an Abyssinian officer, who had been appointed by Ibrahim Adil II. During the regime of Malik Marjan, which lasted nearly thirty years, the defenses of the Bidar fort and the palaces inside it were extensively repaired. Aurangzeb laid siege to the city, and in a few days succeeded in bringing his artillery to the edge of the ditch, and breached two bastions and a portion of the lower wall. The officers of Aurangzeb's array then scaled the walls and discharged rockets and grenades on Malik Marjan's troops who were defending the breach. One of the rockets accidentally struck a magazine of gunpowder which exploded, severely burning Malik Marjan and his sons. Malik Marjan died of his injuries within two days of the accident, and on the 18th of April, A.D. 1656, after a siege of twenty seven days, Aurangzeb made a triumphal entry into the fort. Bidar was included in the Mughal Empire, and Aurangzeb by the capture of the place obtained twelve lakhs of rupees in

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cash, ammunition worth eight lakhs of rupees, and 230 guns. Aurangzeb, jubilant at his success, proceeded to the great mosque in the fort, and had the khutba recited in the name of his imperial father, Shah Jahan. Bidar was renamed Zafarabad, and Mughal coins issued under this name from Bidar may still be seen in museums. Iftikhar Khan, who had taken an active part in the capture of Bidar, was appointed its first governor, and he retained this office for a little over two years until his return to the Faujdarship of Churagarh in Malwa, which was his permanent post. The next Mughal governor of Bidar was Khan Zaman Mir Khalil-Ullah, who also held this charge for a little over two years, until 1071 H. (A.D. 1660), when he was promoted to the governorship of Malwa. Mir Khalil-Ullah was succeeded by Mir Shams-ud-Din Mukhtar Khan, whose name is still kept fresh in the memory of the people of Bidar by the inscriptional tablets which he fixed to the gates of the city and the fort. Mukhtar Khan also built the Farah Bagh Mosque, the inscription on which is a fine specimen of the nasta'liq style of writing. He repaired the gates and the defenses of Bidar, and Aurangzeb in appreciation of his services promoted him to the governorship of Khandesh in A.D. 1672 and appointed Qalandar Khan, who afterwards enjoyed the title of Jan Nisar Khan. in Mukhtar Khans place at Bidar. Qalandar Khan's name is preserved in an inscription which records the building by him of a pillared hall in 1088 H. (A.D. 1677). The hall does not exist now, and the inscription which at one time was placed in the Solah Khamb Mosque has been removed for safe custody to the Archaeological Museum in the Bidar fort. Qalandar Khan also built a fine mosque at Gulbarga, which may still be seen. Qalandar Khan retained the governorship of Bidar until 1092 H. (A.D. 1681), when he was succeeded by Jan Sipar Khan Bahadur Dil, the brother of Mukhtar Khan, the third governor. Jan Sipar Khans governorship lasted for several years, and according to the Ma'dthir-ul-Umara he was helped in the administration by his son Rustam Dil Khan, who afterwards succeeded him. In Jan Sipar Khan Aurangzeb had great confidence, and in 1098 H. (A.D. 1687), when the emperor, after conquering Golconda, came to Bidar, he deputed Jan Sipar Khan to escort Abu-lHasan to Daulatabad, where the unfortunate king afterwards spent the rest of his life in captivity. Jan Sipar Khan was subsequently promoted to the governorship of Hyderabad, and his son Rustam Dil Khan, who was already familiar with the government of Bidar, took up his father's

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office at the latter place. Rustam Dil Khan was an accomplished administrator and ultimately rose to be governor of Golconda, the Bidar province, after the annexation of Golconda and Bijapur to the Mughal Empire, occupying a minor position in the administration of the Deccan. The local records show that Rustam Dil Khan held the governorship of Bidar for one year and seven months only, until 1099 H. (A.D. 1688), but there is a mosque at Bidar built by Rustam Dil Khan with an inscription of the year 1107 H. (A.D. 1695). Rustam Dil Khan was succeeded by Aurang Khan, who, owing to his untimely death, held the governorship for a few days only. After Aurang Khan his son Qubad Khan assumed his office, and held it until his demise in 1102 H. (A.D. 1691). Qubad Khan built the Shrine of the Holy Cloak at Bidar. Qubad Khan was followed by Husam-ud-Din Khan. Who is better known in the history of the Deccan as governor of Udgir. He was an enterprising officer, possessing both military prowess and administrative ability. He was also fond of music, and was most accomplished in repartee. At Bidar he built a mosque and laid out a garden. He also built a platform near the Talghat Darwaza, whence he enjoyed the view of the lowlands on moonlit nights. The platform was called the Chandni Chabutra, the platform for moon-lit nights. Husam-ud-Din Khan was succeeded by Khana-zad Khan some time in 1107 H. (A.D. 1695), and he remained in office for nearly a year. Afterwards he proceeded to Delhi, where he was appointed Khan Saman, ' Lord Chamberlain', to the Emperor. After Khana-zad Khan's promotion, Sazawar Khan received from Aurangzeb the governorship of Bidar. During his regime the famous Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan was struck by lightning. This catastrophe occurred on the 1 1th of Ramadan 1 107 H. (4th April, A.D. 1696), destroying one-half of the front of the building and an equal part of the left wing, including the beautiful tower at the southeast corner. The Madrasa was in a ruinous condition until recently, and the fore-court and the interior were filled with debris. It has now been thoroughly repaired and the original plan of the missing portions restored up to the plinth. Sazawar Khan was succeeded by Anup Singh Bundela, who was of a violent temper and murdered one Tondar Mai (Todar Mai) Hazari, who had refused to marry his daughter to the son of Anup Singh. The followers of Tondar Mai rebelled against Anup Singh, who shut himself up in the fort of Bidar. Afterwards he secretly escaped from the fort through the help of Raja

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Chandra Sen.s troops who had come to his rescue. The followers of Tondar Mai represented the matter to the Emperor at Delhi, who appointed Mir Kalan Khan as governor of Bidar. Mir Kalan Khan retained the governorship of Bidar for a long time, and when Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jahi, after defeating Mubariz Khan at Shakar Khelda in October 1724, came to the Deccan and declared his independence, Mir Kalan Khan offered him a warm welcome. With the establishment of the Asaf Jahi dynasty Bidar fell into further insignificance, its governors gradually occupying the position of district officers. Mir Kalan Khan was succeeded in turn by his two slaves, Wasil Khan the senior, and Wasil Khan the Junior.2 Of these, the former was killed by trumpeters at Bhalki, and the latter was ousted by Khwaja Momin Khan, who was deputed by Asaf Jahi to chastise him in 1153 H. (A.D. 1750). Wasil Khan the junior extended the city of Bidar towards the west by building a large market, which was named Wasil Ganj after him. For the protection of this extension he constructed a high wall with three gateways and a moat. In 1156 H. (A.D. 1752) Nawab Asaf Jahi appointed Muqtada Khan to be governor of Bidar. Later on the latter took advantage of the disturbances which arose during the rule of the sons of Asaf Jahi, and levying more than five thousand troops consisting of both cavalry and infantry, began to plunder and lay waste the Telingana country adjoining the territory of Bidar. Nawab Salabat Jang besieged Bidar in order to punish Muqtada Khan. But when the latter showed contrition Salabat Jang not only pardoned him but reinstated him in the governorship. Muqtada Khan rebelled again, but on that occasion the siege was resumed by Mir Nizam Ali Khan. Who soon captured Bidar and appointed Siyadat Khan in place of Muqtada Khan as governor. Subsequently the ill-feeling between the two brothers, Nawab Salabat Jang and Nawab Nizam Ali Khan, became more pronounced, and when Nizam Ali Khan received a sanad from the Emperor of Delhi confirming him in the government of the Deccan, he issued farman confining Salabat Jang in Bidar. The latter remained in captivity for one year three months and six days until his death on the 20th Rabi' I, 1177 H. (28th September, A.D. 1763.) Siyadat Khan was the governor of Bidar when Salabat Jang was confined there, and as he showed loyalty to the latter, Nizam Ali Khan removed him from office and appointed Ala-ud-

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Daula Dilir Jang in his place. He was a very cruel officer, and it is alleged that he killed Salabat Jang in order to please Nawab Nizam Ali Khan. The wicked propensities of Dilir Jang found vent in other directions also, and ultimately he was deprived of his office by Nizam Ali Khan, who appointed Mir Kalan II in his place. Mir Kalan II remained in office for two years from 1179 to 1180 H. (A.D. 1766-7) and was succeeded by Murtada Khan. In 1187 H. (A.D. 1773) Raghoba marched with a large army upon Hyderabad in order to collect the chauth. Nizam Ali Khan met the Maratha army in the vicinity of Bidar, and ultimately defeated Raghoba in a battle which was fought on the bank of the river Manjra. The war lasted for twenty days, and during this period Bidar was also the venue of fighting. The garrison of Bidar fort on that occasion used the famous sat gazi gun in order to repel the Marathas. About the close of the year 1187 H. (A.D. 1773) Murtada Khan was succeeded by Muhammad Ghauth Saif-ud-Daula, but he died shortly after his appointment, and his brother Saif Jang Najm-ud-Daula Bahadur became governor of Bidar in his place. Saif Jang retained this office for twenty-four years until 1203 H. (A.D. 1789); he did not, however, attend to the duties in person, but appointed deputies to work in his behalf. The next governor of Bidar was Nawab Amin-ul-Mulk Bahadur, popularly called Tara Miyan, the bright master'. During his administration Bidar suffered from a terrible famine. To relieve the condition of the people Nawab Nizam Ali Khan Bahadur came in person from Hyderabad and distributed grain from the stores in the fort. Amin-ul-Mulk remained in office for three years, but was afterwards dismissed by Nawab Nizam Ali Khan, and Nur Muhammad Khan was appointed in his place. Nur Muhammad Khan stayed in Hyderabad, but sent Dhakirud-Din Khan as his deputy to manage the affairs of Bidar. About this time a scion of the Asaf Jahi family, named Ail Jah Bahadur, rebelled against Nawab Nizam Ali Khan ; and on the 9th Dhu-l-Hajj 1209 H. (27th June, A.D. 1795) he set out from Hyderabad towards Bidar. Sadasiva Reddi, a zamindar, joined Ali Jah on the way, and when the rebels reached Bidar Dhakir-ud-Din Khan opened the gates of the fort. Nawab Nizam Ali Khan was much upset by the news, and deputed Abdullah Khan, an Abyssinian officer, with a considerable force to chastise Ali Jah and his confederates. Abdullah Khan, however, was defeated by Sadasiva Reddi; the former was wounded, and his wife and children were captured by the enemy. Nawab Nizam Ali khan was further annoyed by this defeat, and he then dispatched a larger force under Monsieur Raymond

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and Sardar-ul-Mulk Ghansi Miyan. They ejected the rebels from the fort; Ali Jah fled to Aurangabad, while Sadasiva was captured and imprisoned at Golconda. Nawab Nizam Ali Khan, after the quelling of the rebellion, punished Nura Muhammad Khan for his disloyalty and appointed Khwaja Munim Khan as governor of Bidar in his place. He was exceedingly kind and good to the peasantry, and distributed large sums of money among the people of Bidar to help them to restore their houses which had been destroyed during the late disturbances, but unfortunately he died of paralysis within five months of his appointment. He was succeeded by Khan Jahan Bahadur in the month of Shawwal 1210 H. (April, A.D. 1796). The latter appointed as his deputy Mirza Husain Beg, whom he sent to Bidar to attend to the duties. The Mirza was an efficient officer, but Mushir-ul-Mulk, the Prime Minister, did not like Khan Jahan, and when the Prime Minister was released from imprisonment at Poona and returned to Hyderabad he induced the Nizam to replace Khan Jahan by Yakka Taz Jang Bahadur, whose real name was Mir Lillahi. The latter assumed office in 1214 H. (A.D. 1799). He himself did not go to Bidar, but sent his son Mir Asad Ali Khan as his deputy. In 1215 H. (A.D. 1800) Yakka Taz Jang died, and Mir Asad Ali Khan was confirmed as governor of Bidar in his father's place. He held the appointment for twenty-two years, being succeeded by Sayyid Khalil-Ullah Khan Bahadur in 1237 H. (A.D. 1822). After Khalil-Ullah Khan eight more governors held charge of Bidar, until 1262 H. (A.D. 1846), when the Nizam's dominions were divided into districts, and the old system of administration through military officers was abolished. Under the new arrangement Bidar for some time remained the head-quarters of a Sadr Ta'alluqdar (Commissioner) and afterwards of a Ta'alluqdar, a position which it still holds. The glory of the town really waned with the decline of the BaihmanI dynasty, although Barid kings kept up its beauty during their chequered rule of 122 years. The final signs of decay appeared when it became a provincial town, first under the Mughal kings and afterwards under the Asaf Jahi rulers. The last nail in the coffin was, however, driven when under the Zil-a-dari system Bidar dwindled to the insignificant position of the headquarters of a Collector. Having no railway connection, its industries, among which the Bidriware was the most notable, fell into decay; its beautiful palaces and public buildings which were once the envy of the great cities of India became a mass of debris; and the people whose piety and learning, military prowess and soldierly bearing were widely renowned, turned into charlatans and professional beggars, or hewers of wood and drawers of water. Fortunately, under the rule of our benign sovereign, His Exalted Highness Nawab Sir Mir Osman Ali Khan

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Bahadur, G.C.I.E., G.B.E., a new era of prosperity is dawning in the history of Bidar. It has been linked to Hyderabad by railway ; a network of schools has been established to spread literacy among its people ; large sums have been advanced for the revival of the Bidri-ware industry ; and effective steps have been taken for the improvement of the breed of cattle and the uplift of the general life of the peasantry of the district. Further, co-operative societies have been started to ameliorate the condition of the urban population; and for the expansion of the town itself a development scheme has been sanctioned, in which sanitation and aesthetic requirements are the principal features. Lastly, to foster a national pride among the people all the monuments of Bidar have been thoroughly repaired, and roads and paths laid out so that access to them is made easy.

3.3 BAHAMANI KINGDOM


The Bahmani Sultanate (Also called the Bahmani Empire) was a Muslim state of the Deccan in southern India and one of the great medieval Indian kingdoms. Bahmani Sultanate was the first independent Islamic and Shiite Kingdom in South India. The sultanate was founded on 3rd of August 1347 by governor Ala-ud-Din Hassan Bahman Shah, possibly of Tajik-Persian descent, who revolted against the Sultan of Delhi, Muhammad bin Tughluq. Nazir uddin Ismail Shah who had revolted against the Delhi sultanate stepped down on that day in favour of Zafar Khan who ascended the throne with the title of Alauddin Bahman Shah. His revolt was successful, and he established an independent state on the Deccan within the Delhi Sultanate's southern provinces. The Bahmani capital was Ahsanabad (Gulbarga) between 1347 and 1425 when it was moved to Muhammadabad (Bidar). The Bahmani contested the control of the Deccan with the Hindu Vijayanagar empire to the south. The sultanate reached the peak of its power during the vizierate (14661481) of Mahmud Gawan. After 1518 the sultanate broke up into five states: Ahmadnagar, Berar, Bidar, Bijapur, and Golconda, known collectively as the Deccan sultanates. According to Islamic historians, a rebel chieftain of Saulatabad (an area around Ellora) which was under Muhammad Bin Tughalaq founded the Bahamani kingdom. Allauddin Hassan,

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a man of humble origin assumed the name of Gangu Bahamani in memory of his patron, a Brahmin. His kingdom comprised of Deccan plateau, including parts of present day Karnataka, Maharashtra, and Andhra Pradesh. Bahanamis of Deccan left a important heritage of IndoIslamic art, language, and spread of Islamic tradition in South India. About eighteen kings ruled during the nearly 200 years after which the kingdom got divided into four smaller ones like Barishahi (Bidar), Kutbshahi (of Golkonda), Adamshahi( of Ahmadnagar), and Adilshahi (of Bijapur).

3.4 BAHMANI KINGS Note: Refer chapter 5.5 Page no.69 Name and Period of the Kings who ruled Bahmani reign 3.4.1 ALA-UD-DIN HASAN BAHMAN SHAH
Founder of Bahmani Dynasty of Deccan (Aug 3, 1347 - Feb 11, 1358 AD) Capital: Gulbarga Nasir-ud-din Ismail Shah asked Zafar Khan to become the King with the title of Sikandar- uth- thani Ala-ud-din Hasan Bahman Shah al-wali. The new King was crowned on Friday Aug 3, 1347 (24.04.748 AH) in the mosque of Qutb-ud-din Mubarak Shah Khalji at Daulatabad. According to one historian Hasan was the nephew of Malik Hizhbar-ud-din entitled Zafar Khan Alai, who was killed in 697 AH/ 1298 AD when Hasan was only 6 years old. The first act of the new king was to transfer his title of Zafar Khan to prince Muhammad. King adopted the title of Bahman. He sent Qutbul Mulk who conquered Kotgir, Maram, Mahendri and Akkal Kot. Qir Khan was sent to conquer Kalyan. After the news of this great victory of Kalyan, King renamed Daulatabad to Fatahabad.

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Sikandar was send to Malkher which was held by the Hindu Zamindars who opposed first but subdued later. Krishna Nayak of Tilangana entered into treaty and became friend of Sikandar and loyal to the King. Quir Khan revolted and was beheaded by the king. King renamed Gulbarga as Ahsanabad and made it the capital of Deccan. Hasan Gangu Abul Muzaffar Ala-udDin Bahman Shah (August 3, 1347 - 1358), whose original name was Hasan Gangu or Hasan Kanku and also bore the title of Zafar Khan was the founder of the Bahmani sultanate.

ANCESTRY AND EARLY LIFE


Early historians, Tabataba and Nizam-ud-Din Ahmad believe that Hasan was descended from the Persian king Bahman, son of Isfandiyar. But Firishta emphatically asserts that this genealogy was fabricated after Hasan's accession to the throne by the flatterers and poets though he has seen the same genealogy in the royal library at Ahmadnagar. He believes that his origin was too obscure to admit or being traced. He thinks that Hasan was an Afghan by birth. He was servant of an astrologer Brahmin named Gangu of Delhi and was blessed by him. Gangu began his career as a general serving under the Sultan Muhammad bin Tughluq. He received the title of Zafar Khan after becoming a governor. In 1347 he was made commander of an army in Daulatabad. On August 3, 1347 Nasir-ud-Din Ismail Shah (Ismail Mukh, whom the rebel amirs of the Deccan placed on the throne of Daulatabad in 1345) abdicated in his favour and he set up the Bahmani Kingdom with its headquarters at Ahsanabad (Gulbarga).

THE REIGN
On establishing an independent kingdom Gangu took the title of Abul-Muzaffar Ala-uddin Bahman Shah. The name Bahmani Kingdom was derived after the Brahmin caste of Gangu (who had blessed Hasan). Another theory was that the name Bahman came from Hasan's claim of descent from the Iranian hero Bahman, which also lead to the dynasty and kingdom having the name Bahmani. He gave Ismail Mukh a jagir near Jamkhandi and later conferred to him the

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highest title of his kingdom, Amir-ul-Umara. But Narayana, a local Hindu chieftain still succeeded in turning Ismail against Bahman Shah for a short period before he poisoned Ismail. Bahman Shah led his first campaign against Warangal in 1350 and forced its ruler Kapaya Nayaka to cede to him the fortress of Kaulas. His kingdom was divided into four provinces and he appointed a governor for each province. During his reign Hasan fought many wars with Vijayanagar. By the time of his death the kingdom stretched from north to south from the Wainganga River to Krishna and east to west from Bhongir to Daulatabad. He was succeeded by his son Muhammad Shah I after his death in 1358. The King died on Feb 11, 1358 at the age of 67.

3.5 BAHAMANI KINGS BIDAR PERIOD (116 YEARS)

SHIHAB-UD-DIN AHMAD I (Sep 22, 1422 - Apr 17, 1436 AD)


At the beginning of his reign he suffered the shock of the death of Hazrat Khwaja Syed Muhammad Gesu Daraz. He decided and shifted his capital from Gulbarga to Bidar between 827-830 AH. He made Khalaf Hasan Basri as his Wakil-e-Saltanate (Prime Minister). He constructed the Tomb of Gesu Daraz at Gulbarga. Ahmad Shah attacked Vijayanagar and over powered Vijayaraya I. In the last year of his reign he appointed his eldest son Ala-ud-din Zafar Khan to be his heir, giving him the full charge of kingdom. King died on 29th of Ramadan, 839 AH after a short illness

ALA-UD-DIN AHMAD II (Apr 17, 1436 - May 6, 1458 AD)


Ahmad I had been very successful as a king and when he died he was popular even to the extent of being regarded as a saint. His son Zafar Khan who assumed the title of Ahmad on his

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accession he gave preference to newcomers from outside over the old in his cabinet. This created a great cleavage between them and the Dakhnis (old comers). He married the daughter of Raja of Sangmeswar and gave her the title of Zeba Chehra apart from the daughter of Nasir Khan Faruqi of Khandesh Agha Zainab. There became two party, apparently the old-comers and the new-comers. King died early due to his wound in his shin (front of lower leg) Silver Coins struck in the name of Ahmad Shah II in 838 AH has been reported. No coin of Ahmad Shah I has been reported so for. This confirms that Ahmad Shah II ascended the throne in 838 AH when Ahmad I was alive.

ALA-UD-DIN HUMAYUN SHAH (May 7, 1458 - Sep 4, 1461 AD)


Ahmad Shah II had nominated his eldest son Humayun heir to his throne. King made Khwaja Mahmud Gawan, Malik-ut-tujjar, trafdar of Bijapur and Wakil-e-Sultunate giving him full control of military matters. Humayun was a very short tempered and cruel man. He made his own cousin Sikandar Khan as Sipahsalar. Sikandar became rebellion and was crushed to death with the help of Mahmud Gawan. Humayun died on 28th Zi-Qada 865 AH. Coins struck in the name of Humayun Shah 866 AH indicate that he might have died some time in 866 AH and hence Ahmad Shah III ascended the throne in 866 AH.

NIZAM-UD-DIN AHMAD III (Sep 4, 1461 - Jul 30, 1463 AD)


On Humayun's death his son Ahmad succeeded to the throne as Nizam-ud-din Ahmad III at the age of 8. He was escorted to the throne by Shah Muhib-ul-la and Syed-us-Sadat Syed Hanif. Late king had nominated a council of Regency constituting of Khwaja-e-Jahan Turk, Mahmud Gawan with the Dowager Queen Makhduma-e-Jahan Nargis Begum. Master mind which ruled the country during the short reign of Ahmad Shah III was that of the great queen. All

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the political prisoners of Humayun period were released. Ahmad III died on the very night of his marriage on 13th Zi-Qada and was succeeded by his younger brother Muhammad Khan as Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III.

SHAMS-UD-DIN MUHAMMAD SHAH III (Jul 30, 1463 - Mar 26, 1482 AD)
Shamsuddin Muhammad was between 9 and 10 years when he succeeded his elder brother. He was escorted to the Turquoise Throne by Shah Mohib-ul-lah (who was released by his captor Mahmud Khalji of Malwa) and Syed Hanif. Nizam-ul-mulk murdered Khwaja-e-Jahan Turk (one of the member of the three party committee of Regency after the death of Humayun) at the instance of Queen in the presence of boy king in 870 AH. Mohammad Shah III got married at the age of 14 years. Dowager Queen retired from active role. Malik-ut-tujjar Mahmud Gawan was made Prime Minister. The Prime Minister ship of Mahmud Gawan saw the Bahmani State attaining high unequalled in the whole of its history. During this period Parenda Fort, Great College of Bidar and Madarsa at Bidar Were built. Kherla was besieged in 872 AH. Kapileswar of Orissa was defeated in 1470 AD. Goa was annexed on 20th of Shaban 876 AH. Queen Dowager died in 877 AH. Boundaries of Bahmani Kingdom were now touching the Bay of Bengal in the east and the Arabian Sea in the west. Mahmud Gawan was one of the first ministers in Medieval India to order a systematic measurement of land, fixing the boundaries of villages and towns and making a thorough enquiry into the assessment of revenue. King annexed Kanchi on 1st Muharram, 886 AH. This was the southernmost point ever reached by Bahmani. Nobles conspired against Khwaja Mahmud Gawan and prepared a false paper on behalf of Khwaja saying he wants Deccan to be partitioned between him and Purushottum of Orissa. King sentenced Khwaja to death on 5th Safar 886 AH at the age of 73. Later King came to know that Khwaja was innocent. He appointed his son Mahmud as his heir. He died on 5th Safar 887 AH.

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SHIHAB-UD-DIN MAHMUD (Mar 26, 1482 - Dec 27, 1518 AD)
The long reign of Mahmud Shah Bahmani, was a period of gradual weakening of the state. He ascended the throne at the age of 12 years, when new-comers had been over thrown. New Regency was formed with Queen as president. Qasim Barid was entitled with Barid-ulmumalik. King began to indulge in wine women and song and spent so much money that he had to extract many jewels from the Turquoise throne at the instigation of Qasim Barid. Qasim Barid forced Mahmud to make Prime Minister of the kingdom in 897 AH. Malik Ahmad Nizamulmulk revolted and made a beautiful palace making it the center of his newly created capital,

which he named after himself, Ahmadnagar in 900 AH. Qutbul-Mulk was appointed as the Governor of Tilangana in 901 AH /1495-96 AD who controlled over Warangal, Rajakonda, Dewarkonda and Kovilkonda. Qasim Barid died in 910 AH and was succeeded by his son Amir Barid. Ahmad Nizam died in 914 AH and succeeded by his son Burhan. Sultan died on 24th Zilhij 924 AH.

AHMAD SHAH IV (Dec 27, 1518 - Dec 15, 1520 AD)


Amir Barid was very clever, He put Mahmud's son Ahmad on throne. Amir Barid was careful that king should not leave the palace but he actually set about to spoil his life and morals. New Sultan was forced to break up the ancient crown of the Bahmanis, worth 15 lakhs of Rupees (Rs. 1,500,000). And sell the jewels in order to provide himself with the means of ease and pleasure. Sultan died on 1st Muharram 927 AH.

ALA-UD-DIN SHAH (Dec 28, 1520 - Mar 5, 1523 AD)


Amir Barid's wish to become king was rekindled with Ahmad's death. He put the crown on Ahmad's son Ala-ud-din on 17th of Rabi-us-sani 929 AH after 15 days of thinking. The new Sultan was wise and courageous. Amir Barid conspired against him and Sultan was dethroned on 17th Rabi-us-sani 929 AH.

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WALI-UL-LAH SHAH (Mar 5, 1523 - 1526 AD)


Amir Barid put Waliullah son of Mahmud on throne. He was imprisoned in his own zanana (ladies room) and lived on bread and clothes provided to him by his master. Amir Barid married the pretty Bibi Sitti, Ahmad's widow who was just 22-23 yrs. Amir Barid was now a royal kinsman and was free to enter the zanana apartment of the palace. He began to make love with the queen. When Sultan resisted he was poisoned in the beginning of 932 AH. Coin of Waliullah struck in 928 AH and no coin of Alauddin Shah of 928 AH indicates that Alauddin Shah was dethroned in 928 AH and Waliullah ascended the throne in 928 AH. Coins struck in the name of Kalimullah in 930 AH indicate that he ascended the throne in 930 AH and Wali-ullah died in 930 AH.

KALIM-UL-LAH SHAH (1526 - 1527 AD)


Kalim-ul-lah son of Mahmud Shah was the last king of the Bahmani Dynasty. He was closely guarded by Amir Barid. A new political force had now appeared on the Indian Horizon in the person of Zahir-ud-din Muhammad Babur. All the rulers of Deccan i.e. Bijapur, Ahmadnagar, Berar, and Burhanpur sent their congratulations to the Mughal conqueror. Kalimullah also wrote letter to Babur to relieve him from Amir Barid. This news was leaked and out of fear of his life Kalimullah Shah fled to Bijapur in 934 AH / 1527 AD. He was not welcomed there. He left for Ahmadnagar. He was first received well by Burhan Nizamul Mulk, but never again called in open court. Kalimullah soon breathed his last in Ahmadnagar. His coffin was brought to Bidar. His date of death could not be confirmed. After the death of Kalimullah his son Ilhamullah proceeded to Mecca and never returned.

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3.6 BIDAR DISTRICT IMPORTANT HISTORICAL EVENTS
231 B.C The Satavahanas who were ruling at Paithan as vassals of Mauryas proclaimed independence. They ruled over Dakshinapatha for about four centuries and a half. The Vakatakas dominated the Deccan. 345 A.D Kadambas rose to power Vaijayanti (Banavasi) was their capital and palasika (Halsi) a second capital Sindas of Ranjeru- Attale nadu 545 A.D Pulakesin I established chalukya power. He made vatapi (the Modern Badami) his capital 753 A.D Rashtrakuta Prince Danti Durga proclaimed himself the sovereign power in the Deccan. Manyakheta (Malkhed) was their Capital, Jain temple at Kambithana (Kamthana) 913 A.D Rashtrakuta Karka 11 was dethroned by the Chalukya, Taila II, Taila's success was the beginning of the Chalukyan empire of Kalyani. 1042-68A.D Someshwara I removed the capital from Manyakheta to Kalyani 1075 A.D Kakatiya Beta II received Sabbinadu from Chalukyas. 26th February 1077 Coronation of Vikramaditya VI started Chalukya Vikrama Varsha Jalsangi Temple 1154 A.D Kalchuri Bijjala became the Mahapradhana to Taila III. 1155 A.D Bijjala Started carrying on the administration in the name of Taila III. 1157 A.D Kalachuri Bijjala assumed full imperial titles. 1162 A.D After the death of Baladeva, Basaveshwara was Minister to Bijjala. Allamaprabhu ascended sunya pitha in the anubhava mantapa 1167 A.D Bijjala abdicated the throne in favour of his son somideva or someshvara.

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1181 A.D Somesvara IV the son of Chalukya Taila III became ruler after sweeping away the last remnants of Kalchuri power. 1188 A.D Yadava Bhillama seized Kalyana. The Kakatiyas also gained some territory of Chalukyan Empire as a result of the final dissolution of Chalukyan hegemony. 1270 A.D Yadava mahadeva was forced to surrender Bedadakota (Bidar) which was annexed to the Kakatiya Kingdom. Sinda Bhairava assisted Kakatiyas in the struggle 1318 A.D Badarkot (Bidar) and other places were ceded to Khusrau Khan 1320 A.D Kakatiya pratap rudra reoccupied Badarkot and other places. 1322 A.D Bidar Town which was on the frontier of Telingana and Baswakalyan forts were taken by Ulugh Khan (Muhammad-Bin-Tughluq) who was then a prince. Those town forts were left incharge of trust worthy officers with strong garrison. 1336 A.D The Vijayanagar Empire founded. 1341 A.D Muhammad Bin Tughluq honoured Shihab-Ud-Din of Multan with the little Nusrat Khan and conferred on him the Government of Bidar( One of the aqlims or provinces) with its dependencies on the condition that he should pay a revenue of one Crore of rupees annually into the kings treasury. 1345 A.D As Nusrat Khan could not fulfill the condition, he was expelled. Sadah Amirs (who were revenue collectors as well as military commanders under Mohd. Tughluq) rebelled. They elected one of their members Ismail Mukh as the sultan of Deccan. As he was aged, he readily abdicated his charge in favour of Hasan Gangu. 3rd August 1347 Zafar Khan (Hasan Gangu) was crowned and assumed the title of Ala-Ud-Din Hasan Bahman Shah at Daulatabad. He made Gulbarga his capital. Bidar was made a taraf/province under a governor. The Bidar town began to flourish as a provincial head quarters.

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1358 A.D Azam-I-Humiyun of Bidar who defeated the Nayaka of Warangal was appointed as the Governor of Golconda. 1364 A.D The Kingdom of Warangal was finally destroyed by Ahmed shah 1378-1397 A.D Muhammad II established some schools for orphans at Bidar. 1396 The Durga Devi Xamam; a famine that lasted for 12 years and ruined the country between the Godavari and the Krishna. 1428 A.D On his return from Kherla, Ahmed stayed in Bidar for some time, where he was struck by its situation and climate that he decided to build a new city near its ancient fortress and called it Ahmadabad-Bidar. 1429 A.D Bidar became the new capital. Ahmed shah wali (1423-1436 A.D) laid the foundations of the Bidar fort. The construction was completed around 1432 A.D 1436-1458 A.D Ala-Ud-Din Ahmed -II. He built a large hospital at Bidar and staffed it with expert Muslim and Hindu physicians. 1453 Mohammed Gawan's arrival at Bidar. 1458-1461A.D Humayun was the sultan. He appointed Mahmud Gawan as the Prime Minister, Commander-in-Chief and governor of Bijapur. 1461-1463 Nizamud-din-Ahmed II 1463-1482 Muhammad III Mahmud Gawan. Prime Minister introduced many reforms, Great Madarsa of Mahmud Gawan was found by Gawan in 1472 A.D, Goa annexed to Bahmani Kingdom. 1471-1474 A.D Afanasy Nikitin a Russian Traveler was in the Deccan including Bidar. 5th April 1481 On the order of the monarch Muhammad III, Mahmud Gawan was beheaded at Condapalli Camp. 1523 A.D As Bahmani Sultan Ala-ud-din Shah was venturing to assert himself; he was dethroned by Amir Barid.

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1538 A.D The Bahamani dynasty faded out of history. Five smaller states emerged including Barid Shahi dynasty. 1543 A.D Ali Barid assumed royal appellation of Shah. 1619 A.D The Adil Shah of Bijapur took over Bidar. 1656 A.D The Mughal forces captured Bidar and Kalyani. Bidar was annexed to the Mughal Empire. 1724 A.D Asaf Jahi Dynasty succeeded Mughal rule. Rule by governors.

3.7 MAJOR TOURIST ATTRACTIONS OF BIDAR

3.7.1 THE FORT ENCLAVE FORTIFICATIONS


In the chapter on History it has been shown that there was a fort at Bidar with a double line of defenses when Prince Ulugh Khan conquered the place. What the form or the extent of this was, it is difficult to determine exactly now. Tradition, however, says that it occupied the western area of the present fort, from the Kalmadgi Gate to the Takht Mahal site, including the projection on which Virasangayya's temple is now built. The large tank would thus have stood at the foot of the old fort, which would have been also defended on three sides by natural precipices. Fragmentary inscriptions, carved blocks of masonry and architectural parts, such as pillars, capitals, and brackets, have been found in abundance in clearing the above area. The tradition is further confirmed by a statement made by Firishta that Ahmad Shah Wall built the Government House (Dar-ul-Imara) at a site where the old fort of Bidar stood in ancient times. The Dar-ul-Imara is now called the Takht Mahal or the Throne Palace. According to Firishta the building of the city and fort of Bidar commenced some time in A.D. 1429, when the king returned from the conquest of Kherla, and the operations lasted for

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nearly three years, for the same author writes that the fort of Bidar was completed in A.D. 1432, when public rejoicings were held.4 It was built of stone and mortar, and engineers and architects of various countries were employed on its design and construction. As gunpowder had not yet come into use in the Deccan, the form of the fort apparently consisted of long stretches of massive walls defended by a moat which was excavated from the rock on which the fort stood. The moat was apparently the work of Hindu masons, who from very early times were adept in carving scarps out of solid rock, while the massive walls constructed of stone and mortar were designed and built by Persian and Turkish architects who had assembled at the court of Ahmad shah Wall. The fortifications of Bidar, as the result of an invasion by Sultan Mahmud Khalji of Malwa, were destroyed and rebuilt during the reign of Nizam Shah Bahmani (A.D. 1461-3), but perhaps no great change was made in their original character until the time of Muhammad Shah Bahmani, when gunpowder was used for blowing up walls by laying mines beneath them. Firishta, in describing the siege of Belgaum by this king in A.D. 1472, observes that when the garrison thwarted the attempts of the royalists to fill up the moat, they resorted to other devices and began to dig trenches and lay mines which till then had not been used in the Deccan. Firishta has further used the words barut ('gunpowder') and top ('gun') in describing the war material and appliances used in this siege. Muhammad Shahs reign was marked by great prosperity, and through the military genius of Mahmud Gawan, his able general and minister, the boundaries of the Bahmani kingdom were much widened and the construction and equipment of forts were developed along scientific lines. On one occasion when the king ordered Mahmud Gawan to repair an old fort previously built by one of the Delhi kings, he strengthened the defenses and equipped it with guns and other war apparatus so thoroughly and with such expedition that the king exclaimed that the Almighty had conferred upon him an incalculable blessing in giving him a servant like Mahmud Gawan. Although there is no direct reference in contemporary history to the rebuilding of the defenses of Bidar fort during the reign of Muhammad Shah, yet the facts cited above leave no doubt that this king, who was anxious to rebuild even minor forts in his territory, must have planned afresh and remodeled the fortifications of his capital in view of the new material and appliances of war which had come into use during his time. There is both historical and epigraphic evidence to show that some additions to the defenses of the fort were made by Mahmud Shah Bahmani, but they were apparently of a minor character, for the reign of this king

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was disturbed by rebellions at the capital and outside it, and, further, the Baridi ministers held him completely under their control. Improvements on a large scale, however, may have been made during the reign of Ali Barid (A.D. 1642-80), who mounted guns, made under his express command, at various vulnerable points of the fort. Later, in A.D. 1618, Malik Marjan, the Bijapur governor, repaired the walls and bastions of the fort, and afterwards Mukhtar Khan al-Husaini, the Mughal commandant, re-erected and plated and bossed in iron almost all the gates of Bidar, which bear his inscriptions to this day. Muhammad Salih Kambo, the contemporary historian of Shah Jahan's reign, gives a description of the fort with certain details, which are true even to-day as regards the general disposition of its defenses. It is thus clear that since A.D. 1656, when Aurangzeb, as governor of the Deccan, annexed Bidar to the Mughal kingdom, no substantial change has been made in its fortifications, which were rebuilt by Muhammad Shah Bahmani under the able superintendence of his general, Mahmud Gawan, after the use of gunpowder was introduced into the Deccan, although they have been repaired and slight additions made during the occupation of the fort by rulers of other dynasties in subsequent years. Bidar fort is an irregular rhomboid in shape, built on the brink of the plateau with steep sides towards the north and east. On other sides, where the ground level was not higher than the adjoining lands, a moat has been excavated in the form of a triple channel with partition walls hewn out of the solid rock. These rocks after partitions are a special feature of the Bidar fort and their long stretches present a grim appearance. The rock is laterite, which by weathering has assumed a dark brown colour. The width of the moat between the glacis and the first partition wall is 32 feet 6 inches, between the first and second partition-walls 36 feet 4 inches, and between the second partition-wall and the scarp 41 feet 9 inches. The depth of the moat is 30 feet, and the height of the scarp above the rock-base on which it is built varies from 32 feet 8 inches to 43 feet. The moat and the glacis encircle the fort on all sides, but the rock-partitioned triple channel exists towards the city side only that is, towards the south-east, the south, and the south-west. The moat was apparently kept dry except between the Kalyani Burj and the Old Fort bastion, where a sluice has been built to fill it from the tank inside the fort. The external circumference of the defenses of the fort is two and a half miles. There are thirty-seven bastions and seven gates, besides the main entrance from the city side.

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RANGIN MAHAL
Rangin Mahal literally means the 'Colored Palace, and this name was apparently given to it on account of its walls being originally decorated with tiles of different hues, traces of which still exist on the facade of the eastern halls. Near the Gumbad Darwaza a royal tower has existed perhaps since the time when Ahmad Shah Wali built the fort (A.D. 1429-32). From this tower, which is mentioned as the Shah Burj in contemporary history, the BaihmanI kings often reviewed their troops, which assembled outside the gate of the fort. In 892 H. (A.D. 1487) when a party of Abyssinians and Deccanis revolted against Mahmud Shah Bahmani and tried to murder him, he took refuge in the Shah Burj. The rebels were subsequently punished, but as the king had despaired of his life he considered the shelter afforded by the Shah Burj as auspicious, and he had a lofty palace built in its close vicinity. The southern apartments of this palace were rebuilt by Ali Barid (A.D. 1642-80), who adorned them with wood-carving and mother-of-pearl work. In modern times the palace has been used as the court of the First Talukdar of Bidar, and a veranda and several partition walls have been built, which not only mar the general appearance of the building, but make it difficult to trace its original plan. Access to the building is now obtained by two flights of steps which lead to a landing from which, by passing through some rooms, the interior of the palace is reached. One of these rooms opens on a veranda which is modern, but there are two halls at its back towards the east, which from the style of their architecture appear to be of the Bahmani period. The haU at the northeast end is square in plan, but has a high-vaulted roof which is supported by squinches in corners. The hall measures 25 feet 4 inches each way at the base, and the domical ceiling is 23 feet 9 inches above the centre of the floor. The hall has a rectangular projection towards the east, and a window at the extreme end which opens in the south-eastern wall of the fort and commands views of the ramparts and the part of the city that is situated on that side. The walls of the hall are extremely thick, and the general style of the building gives an effect of heaviness. To the south of this hall there is another which was originally connected with it by an opening in the wall on that side. The latter hall also is square in plan, but is smaller than the former. It measures 18 feet each way, and has a pentagonal projection towards the east with a window at the end which opens upon the ramparts. This hall is entered from the veranda by an

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arch, the proportions of which are rather squat, the span being 11 feet 5 inches and the height up to the apex 13 feet 5 inches. This hall also seems to be of the Bahmani period, and may have been added by Mahmud Shah Bahmani after the revolt of A.D. 1487. It has a rectangular extension towards the south, which has also an arched opening to the veranda. This narrow room was utilized either as a toilet chamber or as a wardrobe. From the plan it will be noticed that there are three small rooms at the southern end of the veranda and two at the northern end. To the west of the latter there is a double room which opens on the court and has also a door towards the steps. All of these six rooms are of small dimensions, and their architecture is such that they may belong to any period, Bahmani, Baridi, or even later. From the court a view of the upper walls of the palace may be had. These were once richly adorned with tile-work arranged in arch-shaped and rectangular panels. The colour scheme now visible consists of white patterns on a dark blue background. There may have been other colours also, but as the tiles have been exposed to the in clemencies of the weather for several centuries, they have completely faded. The designs consist of floral and calligraphic devices exhibiting a highly developed technique and refined taste.

THE SHAHI MAIBAKH OR THE ROYAL KITCHEN


This adjoins the Rangin Mahal towards the west and is situated to the left of the road, a few steps from the venerable banyan tree. The building at one time may have been used for the royal kitchen, but it is too large to have been originally built for that purpose, and from its plan it would appear to have been the residence of a prince or of some court dignitary. After the annexation of Bidar to the Bijapur kingdom in A.D. 1619, Malik Marjan, an Abyssinian general in the service of the latter kingdom, was appointed governor of Bidar, and he resided in the fort, apparently in this palace, for there is an inscription on the inner entrance which mentions Malik Marjan's name. When first visited the fort in A.D. 1916, the building was used as the District Jail, The building is entered from the roadside by an arched gateway which leads to an open court measuring 70 feet 6 inches by 81 feet 8 inches. Along the eastern, western, and northern sides of this court runs a modern colonnade with masonry piers and semicircular arches. The south wing of the court is, however, old and comprises an inner gateway and seven rooms with

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double apartments. The arches of these rooms are extremely squat in their proportions, each having a span of 11 feet 2 inches with a height of 11 feet 7 inches only. The arch of the inner gateway, however, shows a better sense of proportion, its span being 8 feet and its height up to the apex 14 feet 2 inches. The passage of this gateway is 11 feet wide and 32 feet 9 inches long, and on either side of it are rooms for guards. The ceiling of the gateway consists of a single vault. The arches of the guards' rooms are again very squat in their proportions, the span being 18 feet 2 inches, the height from the floor up to the apex 14 feet 9 inches, and the height of the columns up to the springing-points 5 feet 8 inches. The rooms themselves measure 22 feet 3 inches by 14 feet 10 inches, and they have vaulted ceilings which are almost flat. On passing through the inner gateway a court is reached which measures 180 feet 5 inches from east to west, and 67 feet 5 inches from north to south. At the southern end of the court is a spacious platform, five steps higher than the court level, measuring 51 feet 7 inches in width and 162 feet 2 inches in length. There is a small cistern in the middle of the platform, and it appears that originally there were fountains and water-channels in this palace as well. The main building of the palace faced north, and comprised a series of rooms and chambers with two domical halls, one at the eastern and one at the western end. The two domical halls are still standing, but the rooms and chambers in between have been replaced by some modern halls which were erected when the building was used as the District Jail. The new halls are not in alignment with the old rooms, and the plan of the building has thus been considerably disturbed. The domical halls are very massively built. The interiors are star-shaped in plan, comprising a square space in the middle with projections on all four sides. The middle space measures 21 feet 2 inches each way. There are spacious arches on all four sides from which the projections start, the span of the arches being 20 feet 10 inches and the height up to the apex 17 feet 6 inches. There are squinches at the corners which make the plan of the hall octagonal above the arches, and higher up there are niches, three in each corner, which make it twenty-four sided, thus passing easily into the circular base of the dome above. The shape of the latter gives an impression of heaviness. It is probable that this palace was originally built by the Bahmani kings.

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SHAHI HAMMAM OR THE ROYAL BATH
The road near the north-eastern corner of the Shahi Matbakh enters through an arch in the enclosure of the Royal Seraglio, locally called the Zanana Mahallat, and passes by the steps of the Shahi Hamm am, which is situated within the enclosure. The building was, some time ago, used as the Civil Court and afterwards as the office of the Inspector of Schools, but on the representation of the Archaeological Department it has recently been made over by the Government to the latter department for preservation as an ancient monument. During the occupation of the building by the Civil Court and the office of the Inspector of Schools the platform in front of the building was extended towards the east and west, and a veranda with round columns was also constructed in front of the middle part of the building. In the plan reproduced in Plate XV these modern additions have been omitted. The platform rises to a height of 4 feet from the road, and has a length of 67 feet from east to west and a width of 61 feet from north to south. In front of the middle part of the building there is a pavement a little higher than the platform, measuring 29 feet by 23 feet. Behind the pavement was a double hall with five bays in each half, the four corner bays being larger than the middle ones. The divisions are arranged by means of arches which have wide spans and low imposts, a common feature of the architecture of Bidar. The total length of the hall is 63 feet and the depth 27 feet. The ceiling is divided into vaults. The hall extends towards the south in the form of two wings, each consisting of a double apartment with vaulted ceiling. The middle part of the building was apparently used as the waiting-hall, from which those who wanted to take the bath proceeded to the intermediate stage, which consists of three apartments, as shown in the plan, adjoining the hall towards the east. The original roof of the southern two apartments of this stage fell down some time ago, and the present roof is modern. These three apartments were used for dressing. Beyond this stage was another towards the east, consisting of a single domed chamber. Here, the temperature being warmer, the bathers waited for a few minutes to prepare themselves for the still warmer atmosphere of the interior. Those who came out of the bath here laid aside their wet clothes and were provided with towels. The dadoes of this chamber were once adorned with encaustic tiles, but they have disappeared, and now only the black stone margins, indicating the outlines of the tile panels, are to be seen.

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THE ZANANI MASJID OR THE SOLAH KHAMB MOSQUE


Both these names have been given in comparatively recent times; the first on account of the building being situated in the Zanana enclosure, adjoining the Lal Bagh towards the west, and the second on account of the presence of sixteen columns (solah khamb) in the middle part of the prayer-hall, which was screened off from the rest of the building after the latter had fallen into ruin. Originally it was the principal mosque, Masjid-i-Jami, of Bidar, and the Friday prayers, as well as State functions of a religious character, were held here. In A.D. 1656 when Aurangzeb, as Viceroy of the Deccan from the Imperial Court at Delhi, conquered Bidar, he hastened to this mosque to have the khutba recited in the name of his father Shah Jahan, as a proclamation of his sovereignty in the newly acquired territory. Muhammad Salih, the contemporary historian of Shah Jahan's reign, who has recorded this event, describes the building as two hundred years old, having been built by the BaihmanI kings. Khafi Khan also, who visited the Deccan during Aurangzeb's reign and stayed for many years there, does not give the exact date of the building, but writes that it was constructed by Khan Jahan. As this title was enjoyed by several ministers of the BaihmanI kings, it is difficult to say precisely which of them erected the mosque. Luckily the Archaeological Department of Hyderabad, while clearing the debris and earth from the decayed part of the mosque, has found an inscription which not only gives the exact date of the building but also the name of the prince in whose regime the mosque was constructed. The building has a long front, nearly 310 feet from the north to the south, but as its height is only 28 feet 6 inches, and all the arched openings of the facade are of a uniform size, there is considerable monotony, besides an effect of flatness in the general appearance of the building. The architect, however, had planned to remove this effect by building a parapet of pleasing design above the row of front arches and also by giving a high clerestory with windows of beautiful jali-work round the dome, whilst the dome by itself takes away the impression of flatness when the building is seen from a distance. But these features are completely lost when the building is seen from near, and the long stretch of nineteen uniform arches wearies the eye. The prayer-hall measures 294 feet 9 inches from the north to the south and 80 feet from the east to the west. The rows of columns divide the prayer-hall into five apartments lengthwise and

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nineteen breadth wise, thus making ninety-five bays, but the space of the nine middle bays near the western end is occupied by a hall which is crowned by a majestic dome. There is a well beyond the southern wall of the mosque from which water was obtained for the ablutions of the congregation. Traces of a water channel may still be seen along the top of the western wall of the mosque. There is also a water reservoir on the roof of the mosque, from which water was distributed to the cisterns in the ground-floor of the mosque.

TARKASH MAHAL
It was perhaps so styled on account of its having been built for a Turkish wife of the king, but about this time it appears that a certain conventionality was also observed in giving names to the royal buildings, for Tarkash Mahals, Gagan Mahals, and Nagina Mahals are mentioned in contemporary records as the names of palaces at Bijapur, Golconda, and Bidar. The rulers of the contemporary dynasties at these places evidently vied with one another in the glory of their architectural works and chose the same names for their palaces as were adopted by their rivals in the other kingdoms. The Tarkash Mahal at Bidar may have originally been begun by the Bahmani kings, but the upper parts of the building are decidedly of the Baridi period, and the palace has undergone so many alterations through the caprice of various rulers at subsequent periods that it is impossible now to determine its original plan.

The uppermost apartments of the building are approached at the present time from the steps which are built at the western end of the building and lead also to the roof of the Solah Khamb mosque. The roof of these apartments has fallen down, but the walls are more or less intact and they give an idea of the design of the building. In the middle there was a hall measuring 28 feet 6 inches in length and 14 feet 6 inches in width. It had arched openings and was beautifully decorated with tiles and stucco work. There are also a great number of small arched niches in the walls of this hall, such as we find in the buildings of Jahangir and Shah Jahan in North India. They may have been used for holding china and sundry articles of toilet, but apart from this utilitarian purpose their presence detracts from the solidarity of the building because of their tiny dimensions. The roof of the hall has fallen and originally there was another

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apartment above it, the remains of which in the shape of two arches may still be seen. These arches rise highest among the present buildings of the fort and are seen from a long distance, representing a distinguishing feature in the panorama of old dark-grey piles of ramparts and towers. They are also richly decorated with stucco work, and although their spans are a little too wide in relation to their height, yet their general appearance is very pleasing. There are smaller rooms on either side of the middle hall, those on the eastern side disfigured by later additions, but those on the western side more or less intact, and they comprise a square room with two narrow rooms in the form of corridors in front and behind respectively. The square room measures 11 feet 10 inches each way, and it was at one time beautifully adorned with encaustic tiles, traces of which may be seen on the dadoes of the room. The upper parts of the walls and the ceiling are decorated with cut-plaster work.

THE DIWAN-I-AM OR THE HALL OF PUBLIC AUDIENCE


This building was called the Jali Mahal, on account of some screens of trelliswork which were visible at the top of the huge pile of debris lying on the site until some twelve years ago. Since then excavations have been conducted on an extensive scale by the Archaeological Department of Hyderabad, and they have disclosed not only the plan of the building but also such remains as reveal, in their architectural and decorative features, the original grandeur of the whole. The building is situated to the west of the Zanana enclosure, and it is approached by a road which proceeds straight from the latter enclosure. The outer wall of the Diwan-i-Am is preserved up to a considerable height on the southern side, but on the remaining three sides it rises only a few feet above the plinth and has been exposed to view by recent excavations. The building has two entrances, one through the eastern wall and the other through the western, but they do not face each other. The excavations have exposed to view the original pavement of the eastern entrance, but the masonry of its outer and inner gateways, which must have comprised large blocks of carved stone, has all disappeared, perhaps carted away for use in modern buildings. The entrance on the outer side measures 9 feet in width, but on the inner side it has become wider, apparently owing to the decay of the side walls at this end.

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Passing through the entrance, we approach the court of the building, which measures 166 feet from east to west and 133 feet from north to south. In the latter direction it is, however, divided into two parts. The southern part is paved and has a width of 96 feet 3 inches. The northern part is some 16 inches lower than the former and has a width of 36 feet 9 inches only. The principal hall of the building, which was probably used for public audiences, is on the southern side and approached by five steps from the pavement. The steps extend along the entire length of the hall and are built of a black stone of close texture which has kept its beautiful polish to this day. The steps are, however, not comfortable to climb, being high and also narrow. But this defect is found in all Indian buildings, whether Buddhist, Brahmanical, or Muslim, down even to the eighteenth century A.D.

TAKHT MAHAL OR THE THRONE PALACE


The name Takht Mahal is modern, for it is not mentioned in contemporary history, although the magnificence of the royal palace built by Ahmad Shah al- Wali at Bidar is extolled by Sayyid Ali Tabataba in his work entitled, Burhan-i- Mahathir. This author mentions a palace and a forecourt but does not give any name of the palace. The name was apparently given by the literati of Bidar. The palace adjoins the audience hall towards the north, and has an imposing entrance facing the east. The facade is much damaged, but such arches as are intact show strength combined with beauty in the style of their architecture. They differ in span and also in shape, indicating the architect's love of variety. The stilt of the apex shows Persian influence, which is also apparent in the decorative schemes of the building which will be discussed later in this account. The Takht Mahal or the Throne Palace was used as a durbar hall, where the installation ceremonies of the Bahmani and Barid Sultans were celebrated. This Throne Palace at the west end of the Fort is where the Bidar rulers held private audience. It has a columned hall facing north onto a rectangular court. Steps to the west of the courtyard lead to various rooms with complicated plans. Some have remains of granite columns. Apart from a hot water swimming pool that once existed here, it is the carvings on granite that are significant. While the geometrical figures signify the Muslim influence, the floral engravings speak of Hindu culture. Discussing the Takht

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Mahal Prof. H.K. Sherwani writes: "The arches are all very stilted and this would be sufficient to prove Iranian influence". The same is also evident from the two bold outlines of the Persian emblem on each of the Eastern and Northern faades, the lion with the rising sun in the background, flanking the arch on both sides, all worked in mosaic of beautiful coloured tiles.

3.7.2 GURDWARA NANAK JHIRA SAHIB


Gurdwara Nanak Jhira Sahib is a Sikh historical shrine situated in Bidar, in Karnataka. It is located at a short distance off one edge of the plateau on which Bidar is located, and there are sweeping views of the plains as you descend down the road to the present Gurdwara. History During his second 'Udasi' (missionary tour) of South India, Guru Nanak after sojourning through Nagpur and Khandwa visited the ancient Hindu Temple of Om Kareswar on the Narbada and reached Nanded (where 200 years later Guru Gobind Singh spent his last days). From Nanded he proceeded towards Hyderabad and Golkonda where he met Muslim saints and then came to Bidar to meet Pir Jalaluddin and Yakoob Ali. The Guru accompanied by his companion Mardana stayed in the outskirts of the Bidar town where 'Nanak Jhira' Gurdwara is now located. Nearby were huts of Muslim fakirs, who took keen interest in the sermons and teachings of the great Guru. The news soon spread throughout Bidar and its surrounding areas about the holy Saint of the North and large number of people started coming to him to have his "Darshan" and seek his blessings. There used to be acute shortage of drinking water in Bidar. All efforts of the people to dig wells were of no avail. Even when wells produced water the water was found to be unfit for drinking.

Bauli Sahib The Guru was greatly moved by the miserable condition of the people. With divine name on his lips and the mercy in his heart he touched the hillside with his toe and removed some rubble from the place. To the utter surprise of all, a fountain of sweet, cool water gushed out of the hillside. The place soon came to be known as 'Nanak-Jhira'.

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A beautiful Gurdwara has now been constructed by the side of the fountain. The water of the fountain is collected in a small 'Amrit-Khud' built in white marble. There is a free kitchen (guru ka langar) where free food is given to pilgrims 24 hours night and day. A Sikh museum has been built in the memory of Guru Tegh Bahadur, depicting the important events of Sikh history through pictures and paintings. The birthday of Guru Nanak and the Hola Mohalla festival attract large numbers of devotees from all over India. At the spot where the spring originated, the management had an Amrit Kund built with the contributions of devotees. With the water channeled into a sarovar close by, the devotees now take dips in the sacred water which is thought to cure several ailments. The management of Gurdwara Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib now runs a free hospital, an engineering college, a Polytechnic, a college and two schools, one of them being in Hyderabad.

About 4 to 5 lakh (half a million) pilgrims and tourists visit Nanak Jhira every year. During the three melas held during Holi in March, Dashera in October and Guru Nanaks birthday in November, the numbers of visitors swells to about 30,000 a day. It may be recalled that Bhai Sahib Singh, one of the Panj Piaras (five beloved of Guru Gobind Singh), hailed from Bidar where he was once a barber. He was the son of Gurunarayana and Ankamma from Bidar. Another version of Guru Nanak's visit to Bidar has him visiting a Sufi saint who lived with his family and followers here - amidst a source of fresh, sweet water - and that is where the Gurudwara eventually came to be. Whatever the origin, the presence of this important Sikh shrine and the sizable Sikh presence is one of the many layers of Bidar that we encounter. In the course of his tours across the area people thronged to hear him. Guru Nanak listened to their complaints that only brackish water could be found in the area. Pir Jalaluddin and his followers from the nearby Muslim monastery also paid obeisance to the Guru and impressed upon him the need for sweet water in Bidar. In deference to their wishes, the compassionate Guruji uttering Sat Kartar shifted a stone with his wooden sandal, and lo and behold out gushed a spring of sweet water that has flowed to this day. Gurudwara Bidar is one of Holiest Place for Sikhs. Every Year this place attracts lots of tourists from all parts of the country particularly during the months of November and March. Legend has it that Saint Guru Nanak visited the place while the land was in the grip of a famine

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The Guru performed a miracle at the request of the locals and a spring of water from the laterite rock mountain burst out. Till this day crystal clear water flows from the laterite trap. The belief is that drinking of these water cures many ailments.

3.7.3 NARASIMHA JHARNA


The legend goes that, Lord Narasimha after killing Hiranyakashpu, proceeded to kill a demon named Jalasura. Jalasura was a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva. After he was killed by Lord Narasimha, Jalasura turns into water starts flowing from Lord's feet. And to this day water keeps flowing from lords feet and fills the cave. The Cave So, to reach the lord we will have to wade through a 100 feet long cave, with water about 4 feet deep. Bats hanging from the cave's ceiling add to the thrill. Lighting and ventilation have been recently installed. The water is a little muddy, since it is flowing water it is not uncomfortable to walk through it. At the end of the cave we have Lord Narasimha and also the Shiva linga which Jalasura was worshiping. There is very less place to stand, around 8 people can see the lord at once. If there are more people they have to wait in water

3.7.4 PAPNASH SHIVA TEMPLE


As per the local traditional saying, the Shiva Linga idol in this temple is one of those installed by Shri RAM during the time of his journey back from Lanka. The location of the temple in a valley is mesmerizing to the eyes. Every year at the time of Shivratri festival lot of tourists visit this place. . It is said that till a couple of years ago, during the Shivratri festival snakes would visit the temple A natural spring flows into a pond in front of the temple which is called 'Papnasha'.' annihilator of sins ', signifies, it is much resorted to as a place of pilgrimage by the people of the locality and even by those of distant places. It may be approached by the

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Hyderabad-Udgir road by taking a transverse course towards the edge of the plateau from near the eighty-seventh milestone, and afterwards following the cart-track which goes down to the valley below and has many abrupt turns and is generally unfit for vehicular traffic owing to being cut up by rain. The cart-track leads to a pleasant grove in which mango and guava trees abound. The visitor on arriving will notice a linga fixed to a yoni on a mound under a stately mango-tree. These symbols, representing the god Siva and his wife Parvati, are made of polished black stone. On the mound circular masonry work may also be seen, and in the niches formed thereby small images of Ganesha and some other gods of the Hindu pantheon are installed. Close by a sculpture, representing two intertwined snakes, is placed under a tree. This symbolizes fecundity, and is worshipped particularly by those women who desire children. In front of this same sculpture is the image of a bull carved in stone, and towards its left a small enclosure within which three lingas fixed to yonis may be observed. At the foot of the scarp is a cistern measuring 16 feet by 14 feet.

On descending five steps the water-level is reached, but as people bathe there in large numbers with their dhotis on, which generally are not clean, the water of the cistern is unsavory, although it has a continuous flow and is replenished by a fresh supply from the natural spring in the bosom of the rock. At a short distance from the cistern are the remains of a hall where pilgrims take rest and also perform certain rites. The hall measures 27 feet by 19 feet and was originally divided into six bays, of which only two towards the south-east are intact. In front of the hall is a pool without any masonry margins. People bathe in this pool also.

Southwards along the water-channel the end of the valley is reached where the scarp has a semicircular form. There is a natural spring in the rook-bed, and nearby some cells are hewn which have irregular plans. There is a double cell facing the west; the outer apartment measures 7 feet 9 inches by 6 feet, while the inner is more commodious, measuring 12 feet 9 inches by 7 feet 6 inches. The cells cut in the northern projection of the scarp are even more irregular in plan; one of them is L-shaped, while another in the western side of the hill has more or less a square form. Towards the north of the glen, as the slopes of the hill afford an abundant supply of water during the monsoons, the engineers of former days have taken advantage of the natural features

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and built a massive dike for the storage of water. The dike is 691 feet in length and has a sluice in its north-western part. The level of the water is generally 23 feet below the top of the dike, but during the monsoons it rises considerably, and for the exit of the water the sluice is opened. The water of the tank is utilized for irrigating crops. In the cold weather, November to February, ducks and other aquatic birds gather in large swarms around the tank and offer a tempting opportunity for shooting.

The tank with its dike most probably dates back to pre-Muslim times ; first on account of its association with the antiquities of Papnas, and secondly because the Hindu rulers of the Deccan in the eleventh and twelfth centuries A.D. built tanks at many places, and their dikes show a highly developed skill in this branch of engineering.

3.7.5 BIDRI OR BLACK SILVER ART OF BIDAR BIDRI ART


India is known as a great melting pot. It assimilates traits from outside, good or bad and gives it Indian format; be it philosophy, consumer goods, music or arts and crafts. The art of Bidri belongs to a borrowed and later Indianized form. Inlay or encrusting of one metal over the other artistically was practiced by Persians and Arabs centuries ago. It is believed that the inlay work originated in Damascus (Syria) and came to be known as damascene. But after coming to India during the Muslim rule, it took Indian shape and came to be known as Bidri work or Art. Bidar (now a district and headquarters in North Karnataka) was a capital of Bahamanis who ruled from 1347 to 1527 C.E

Bahmani kings patronized Persian and Arab scholars and craftsmen. Originally it was used to decorate martial, steel objects like swords and shibboleths. At times verses from the Holy Quran were inscribed on them. Slowly hukkas, pandaans, spittoons, trays, book holders, lamp-shades and other artifacts made their appearance with beautiful engravings of silver on molten black metal. The art did not die with the fall of the Bahamanis. Baridshahis who succeeded them and later Nizam of Hyderabad patronized this unique art of Deccan.

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Bidri in-lay work requires great skill and concentration and nowadays only few Muslim families are in this craft which have come down form generations. There are four stages of making a Bidri artifact. Molten solution of copper and zinc is poured into clay moulds. The ratio is fixed. When the base is ready, solution of copper sulphate is applied to give dark surface to the object. The designs are engraved by hand, with delicate chisels. In the third stage silver sheets are fixed and filed over the designs.

Finally the articles are gently heated and a solution of clay and salammoniac is applied. Shining silver designs over the jet black piece make unique and marvelous art pieces like jewelry boxes, ashtrays, kettles, buttons, bowls, knife-holders, clips etc.

The Russian traveler Nikitin who visited Bidar between 1470-74 C.E was enamored of the Bidri artifacts and carried some to present to his Emperor. Even today "Bidris" occupy a very high place in arts and crafts of India. But the price of basic materials being high and government being the main patron, who purchases the artifacts for emporiums, there is no bright future for this silver lined art. Salarjung Museum (Hyderabad) possesses some of the most beautiful furniture, kettles and huqqas of the bygone period.

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CHAPTER 4 4.1 FINDINGS

As for our project of II semester we visited Bidar, we conducted survey of the place we found that Karnataka government changing the face of Bidar as a tourism destination by giving importance to its major attraction places. Renovation work inside Bidar fort is in progress to attract the tourist around the world. Bidar tourism department is lacking in tourist research and identifying the needs of tourist which is a major concern in making Bidar a major tourist destination. The tourism planning and strategy of marketing in the place is not strategic. Information about Bidar destination is not available in details on the internet. Bidar tourism department also lacking in guest surveys to track visitors satisfactions with value and service on reaching the destination.

Arrangement of security guards is not properly made. Tourism department is also lacking in creating awareness among locals to protect the monuments.

Bidar has a good transportation facility; it is well connect by road to the major cities. NH9 which connects Mumbai to Hyderabad passes through the city. There no proper mode of transportation within the city. Tourist mostly depends upon their self vehicle or alternatives to reach their places of interest. There is no proper direction boarding to the tourist attractions. On reaching Bidar the problem of accommodation is always in the mind of tourist, the Guru Nanak Jhira trust runs guest houses apart from that there are few local Lodges but they do not match the standards of modern day. There were no chain hotels/motels in Bidar. Tourists prefer a day trip to see Bidar.

According to our Survey, the visitors to Bidar attraction places are in between the age of 20 to 40 years, the main motivation of their visit is to do shopping and sightseeing. The most visited attraction in Bidar is Guru Nanak Jhira and visitors are mostly from Punjab.

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4.2 SUGGESTIONS
As we visited Bidar and surveyed the Bidar destination, we would like to give some suggestions to the Tourism Department of Bidar and Government to improve Bidar as a better tourism destination. Improvement in the field of planning and marketing strategy by making tourist information centers near by the tourist attraction. It is to provide information which are necessary for the tourist to see the places as soon as they visit the places. Building information counters at Bus stands and railway stations to assist the tourist. E.g. Reception counters, Visitors and convention bureau etc. Good marketing strategy can increase the inflow of tourist from around the world. Giving advertisement in media will help Bidar to develop as a good tourism destination. Making some surveys regarding tourist needs and choices, the department can have good contact with them and their can gradual increase in knowing the tourist requirements and the major developments depending upon the tourist needs can be developed. The inflow of tourist at Guru Nanak Jhira is very high because of its popularity and religious importance. Some measures should be taken to create awareness about the other attractions in the city. Bidar is rich in its culture and history. There is lack of awareness about the importance and benefits of tourism among local people. Recently Bidar Utsav has been organized in the city. Organizing fairs in that the main objective should be to target local people and uplift the benefits by tourism. As local people will be aware of benefits, proper accommodation, security and infrastructure will be developed. There were no security guards in and around the attraction places to protect the monuments. The main reason for security is to avoid scratching and writing on the monument, maintaining cleanliness and proper guidance can be given to tourist by them. Tourist guide is a person who provides the information correctly and accurately to the tourist. There were no tourist guides recruiting near the monuments. The aim of the tourist is to

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know about the history and importance of the place, they derive satisfaction by this. So well knowledge tourist guides should be recruited. Transportation is the major concern for the tourist as they have to travel from one point to another. Bidar is a big city, there are many options to reach the city but the transportation facility within the city is less. Local travel agents can help by preparing packages of Bidar who can show the places in a day. This will help the local people in getting jobs and it will be easy for the tourist to have a wonderful experience. Accommodation in Bidar city is does not meet the international standards. There are few lodges which provide good accommodation facility, but to attract foreign tourist and create advertisement major players in the hospitality industry should be approached. This would create advertisement and popularity of the destination. Accommodation plays a major role in making a destination successful. The majority of the tourists visiting to Bidar are aged between 20 to 40 years. To motivate them to visit frequently to Bidar some entertainment and shopping area should be provided. The advertisement about the Bidri art artifacts will create an opportunity for the craftsmen to sell their artifacts. Bidar is a place of social, history and cultural value. Proper utilization of the tourism resources will help Bidar in becoming a major tourist destination.

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4.3 LIMITATIONS
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. There is limited time, labor and funding. Lack of interaction with the local community. Lack of guidance at most of the places. As we visited Bidar for a day we were unable to collect the brief information. The questionnaire used as survey instrument is limited to self-administered measures. Respondents may understand or interpret the items asked in the questionnaire differently, as respondents have different academic background. 6. There were no proper books to refer.

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4.4 CONCLUSION

As per our academic project of MTA II study tour we visited Bidar and chose the same as my project. We enjoyed a lot in the trip. I came to know about Bidar its history, culture, life style and it gave me chance to interact with local people of Bidar. I also came to know about its importance and role in development of tourism in Karnataka. After conducting survey on Bidar, I came to know that Bidar has the potential to become one of the major tourist destinations in India.

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CHAPTER 5

ANNEXURE

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5.1 BIDAR CITY MAP

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5.2 DATA ANALYSIS CHART 1

CHART SHOWING PURPOSE OF THEIR VISIT


Art and Architechture Cultural experience Leisure and scenic beauty Others

7%

4%

52% 37%

CHART 2

CHART SHOWING SOURCE OF INFORMATION ABOUT THE ATTRACTIONS


Magazines Newspapers Website Others

8%

25%

50%

17%

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CHART 3

CHART SHOWING THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE TOURISTS


Below 20 years 21 to 40 years 41 to 60 years

61 years a a ove

23%

23%

15%

39%

CHART 4

IS BIDAR A TOURISM DESTINATION


It gives Cultural Experie ce It gives e tertainment

It gives Peace a Nature Frie ly experie ce


Others

20%

13%

54%

13%

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CHART 5

CHART SHOWING HOW TOURIST MAKE THEIR TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS


Yurself Thrugh travel agent Free individual trip Others

9% 37%

36%

18%

CHART 6

THE MOST VISITED PLACE IN BIDAR


idar frt
Guru Nanak Jhira Papnash Others

6%

11% 33%

50%

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CHART 7

FACILITIES LACKING IN BIDAR


cco odation
Sec rity and articipation of Local eople To r Guide Ot ers

21%

22%

21% 36%

CHART 8

RATING OF BIDAR AS A TOURISM DESTINATION BY TOURIST


Excellent Good Poor Cant Say

9% 27% 18%

46%

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5.3 BAHMANI REIGN
During the 191 years of Bahmani reign following rulers ruled with Gulbarga and Bidar as their capital:

GULBARGA PERIOD (75 YEARS)


1. Ala-ud-din Hasan Bahman Shah 1347 - 1358 AD 2. Muhammad I 1358 - 1375 AD 3. Ala-ud-din Mujahid Shah 1375 - 1378 AD 4. Daud Shah I 1378 - 1378 AD 5. Muhammad II 1378 - 1397 AD 6. Ghiyas-ud-din Tahmatan Shah 1397 - 1397 AD 7. Shams-ud-din Daud Shah II 1397 - 1397 AD 8. Taj-ud-din Firoz Shah 1397 - 1422 AD

BIDAR PERIOD (116 YEARS)


9. Shihab-ud-din Ahmad Shah I 1422 - 1436 AD 10. Ala-ud-din Ahmad Shah II 1436 - 1458 AD 11. Ala-ud-din Humayun Shah 1458 - 1461 AD 12. Nizam-ud-din Ahmad Shah III 1461 - 1463 AD 13. Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III 1463 - 1482 AD 14. Shihab-ud-din Mahmud 1482 - 1518 AD 15. Ahmad Shah IV 1518 - 1520 AD 16. Ala-ud-din Shah 1520 - 1523 AD 17. Wai-ullah Shah 1523 - 1526 AD 18. Kalim-ullah Shah 1526 - 1538 AD

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Mujahid (3)

BIDAR AS A TOURISM DESTINATION Ruh Pawar


Muhammad I (2) Agah Fath Khan Tahamatan (6) Dawud II (7) Hamida Sultan Ahmad III (12) Humayun (11) Hasan Muhammad III (13) Jamashid

5.4
Khunza Nizam Mahmud (14) Khunza fatima

Dawud I (4) Mahmud Muhammad II (5)

Daughter

Ahm ( Wa

Daughter Khunza Sultan Ahmad II (10) Mahmud

Ala-ud-din Hasan Bahman Shah( 1)

Yahya

Ahmad

Daughter Khunza Humaira

Dawud

FAMILY TREE OF BAHMANI KINGS

Muhammad Ahmad I (9) Hasan

Daughter

Ahmad

Daughter

Dawud

Daughter

Hasan

Firoz (8)

Daughter

Mubarak

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5.5 BIDAR FORT
FORT ENTERANCE

RANGIN MAHAL

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ENTERANCE INSIDE RANGIN MAHAL

WOODEN CARVING ON THE ROOF

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ROYAL KITCHEN

THE SOLAH KHAMB MOSQUE/ THE ZANANI MASJID

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TAKHT MAHAL OR THE THRONE PALACE

THE DIWAN-I-AM OR THE HALL OF PUBLIC AUDIENCE

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5.6 GURUDWARA NANAK JHIRA SAHIB
GURU DWARA

AMRIT KUND

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WATER IN AMRIT KUND

PLACE OF WORKSHIP

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5.7 NARSIMHA JHARNA CAVE TEMPLE ENTERANCE

ENTERANCE OF CAVE

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THE CAVE

IDOL OF LORD NARSIMHA INSIDE THE CAVE

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5.8 PAPNASH TEMPLE FAR VIEW OF TEMPLE

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SHIVALINGA INSIDE THE TEMPLE

WATER SPRING NEAR THE TEMPLE

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5.9 QUESTIONNAIRE
P.G. Department in Tourism Sharanabasaveshwar College of Arts Gulbarga TO THE TOURIST:

1. Name of Individual:

__________________________________

2. Occupation:

___________________________________

3. Sex a) Male b) Female 4. Age a) Below 20 Years b) 21 to 40 Years c) 40 to 60 Years d) 60 Years and Above ( ( ( ( ) ) ) ) ( ( ) )

5. Education Qualification a) Degree b) PUC/SSLC c) Higher Primary School ( ( ( ) ) )

d) If any others, specify..................................

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6. How do you feel about Bidar as a tourism destination? a) It gives the cultural experience b) It gives the peace and nature friendly experience c) It gives entertainment d) If any other specify.. ( ( ( ) ) )

7. How do you make your travel arrangement? a) Yourself b) Through travel agent c) Free Individual Trip ( ( ( ) ) )

d) If any others, specify.................................................

8. Why do you visit Bidar for? a) Art and Architecture b) Cultural experience c) Leisure and Scenic beauty ( ( ( ) ) )

d) If others please specify.

9. What is your source of information about the attraction in Bidar? a) Magazines b) News papers c) Web site. ( ( ( ) ) )

d) If any please specify..

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10. Which place has attracted you more in Bidar District? a) Bidar Fort b) Guru Nanak Jhira c) PapNash ( ( ( ) ) )

d) If others, specify

11. What are the facilities lacking in the destination? a) Accommodation b) Security and participation of the local people c) Tour guide. d) If other specify ( ( ( ) ) )

12. How do you grade the tourism in the Bidar District? a) Excellence. b) Good. c) Poor. ( ( ( ) ) )

d) If any specify................................................................. 13. If you have any suggestions to develop Bidar tourism please specify .... ... ....

Thank You

Signature

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QUESTIONNAIRE ANSWERED BY A FOREIGN TOURIST

QUESTIONNAIRE ANSWERED BY DOMESTIC TOURIST

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BIBLOGRAPHY

Antiquities of Bidar, by Yazdani, 1914, Oxford University Press London Bidar its history and monuments, (Re-print) by Yazdani, 1915, Oxford University Press London Bahmanis of the Deccan, by Sherwani, Hyderabad, 1953 Manager of Publications (Hyderabad, Deccan)

www.bidar.nic.in www.bidartourism.com www.kamat.com

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