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Ore Extraction Chemistry and Other Tips for small scale miners

HELPFUL TIPS BEFORE YOU START IF YOU HAVE A LIVING GREEN GOLD LEACHING PLANT PLEASE NOTE THAT IT IS POWDER COATED TO PROTECT IT FROM LEACHES THAT YOU MAY USE WITH THE PLANT. WITH IT YOU HAVE BINS A, B, AND C BIN A IS YOUR PRIMARY LEACH BIN. BIN B IS YOUR PRECIPITATION BIN AND BIN C IS WHERE YOU PLACE YOUR COFFEE OR OTHER FILTER THAT RECEIVES THE PRECIPITATED METALS AND PASSES YOUR FILTERED LEACH INTO THE YELLOW BUCKET PROVIDED WITH THE SYSTEM. THIS CATCHMENT ALLOWS YOU TO RECYCLE THE LEACH BACK INTO BIN A FOR REPRIMING AND DOING A SECOND OR THIRD OR FOURTH LEACH ON WHAT MIGHT BE RICH MATERIALS. YOU WILL WANT TO PUT THE WHITE FILTER THAT CAME WITH YOUR SYSTEM INTO THE WELL BUILT FOR IT IN THE TOP BIN.. A. IT FITS SNUGLY INTO THE DEPRESSION MADE FOR IT. REPLACEMENT FILTERS SHOULD BE 25 TO 50 MICRONS. YOU WILL WANT TO WORK OUTSIDE SO BUILD YOURSELF A LAB TABLE IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE. IF YOU HAVE AN AWNING TO WORK UNDER THAT MAKES IT COMFORTABLE TO WORK OUTSIDE WHEN THE SUN IS BEATING DOWN. BESIDES YOU DONT WANT TO BE BREATHING FUMES INSIDE A BUILDING WITHOUT A FUME HOOD TO VENT UNHEALTHY VAPORS. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ELECTRICAL POWER WITH A POWER STRIP AT YOUR WORK BENCH. WHEN THE AIR IS STILL YOU MAY HAVE TO PUT A FAN OUTSIDE WITH YOU TO KEEP ANY FUMES AWAY FROM YOU. ALWAYS WORK WITH SAFETY IN MIND. YOURE SAFETY AND THE SAFETY OF OTHERS IS IMPORTANT. NEVER ALLOW CHILDREN IN YOUR LAB AREA. KEEP YOUR CHEMICALS LOCKED UP AND AWAY FROM PRYING HANDS. DO NOT LET OTHERS INTERRUPT YOU WHEN YOU ARE WORKING WITH CHEMICALS AS DISTRACTIONS WILL CAUSE YOU TO MAKE MISTAKES. TURN YOUR CELL PHONE OFF AND PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING. NEVER CONSUME ALCOHOL WHILE YOU ARE WORKING. GATHER YOUR MATERIALS AND HAVE THEM NEARBY BEFORE STARTING TO TEST YOUR ORES OR BLACK SANDS. KEEP SOME PAPER TOWELS OR SHOP RAGS AROUND IN CASE YOU NEED TO WIPE UP AND RINSE A SPILL FROM YOUR WORKSPACE.

KEEP A SOURCE OF WATER NEARBY IN CASE OF A SPLASH TO YOUR FACE OR EYES OR SKIN AND FLUSH FOR FIFTEEN TO TWENTY MINUTES IF EXPOSED TO ACID, LYE OR LEACH & GET HELP. SAFETY TIP: NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED YOU CAN PURCHASE SOME OF THESE THINGS FROM YOUR LOCAL GROCERY AND HARDWARE STORES AND YOU LOCAL MINING SUPPLY STORES GLASSWARE: LIKE JARS, CHEMICALLY IMPERVIOUS PLASTIC BOTTLES, CONTAINERS, TEST TUBES FOR TESTING, LAB BOTTLES WITH SPOUTS, PLASTIC SPOONS LARGE AND SMALL, ALONG WITH MEASURING SPOONS AND A LARGE PLASTIC LONG HANDLED SOUP SPOON A GOOD GRAIN, GRAM, PENNYWEIGHT SCALE AN ORP METER, A PH METER OR PH PAPERS FIREBRICKS FOR TORCH WORK AN OXY/ACETELENE OR MAPP GAS TURBO TORCH FOR SMALL TESTS LONG CUPEL/CRUCIBLE TONGS AND A JEWELERS MELT DISH (LONG METAL HANDLE WITH WOODEN HAND HOLD). SCORIFICATION DISHES AND CUPELS FOR TESTING METALS WITH A TORCH IF YOU HAVE AKILN OR GAS FURNACE YOU ARE AHEAD OF THE GAME. BORAX (20 MULE TEAM) BORAX GLASS, BAKING SODA, BORIC ACID, LOTS OF SALT, CITRIC ACID (MAKES LEMONADE), VINEGAR 5%, NITRIC ACID (FROM MINING SUPPLY OR CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE, MURIATIC ACID (LOCAL HARDWARE STORE). OTHER CHEMICALS YOU WILL NEED ARE LIME, IODINE (FROM YOUR LOCAL FEED STORE USED FOR ANIMAL INJURIES), LYE (SODIUM HYDROXIDE.. RED DEVIL LYE WITHOUT ALUMINUM PARTICLES) SOME LYE HAS ADDITIVES DO NOT USE THAT TYPE OF LYE. YOU WILL NEED UREA AND OR BAKING SODA TO NEUTRALIZE ACIDS.

IN THE FLUX SECTION OF THIS MANUAL YOU WILL FIND OTHER INGREDIENTS THAT YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE ADDITIONAL FLUX RECEPIES. OTHER HANDY ITEMS ARE : METAL MORTAR AND PESTAL FOR GRINDING SMALL AMOUNTS OF ORE FOR TESTING, OR USE AN IMPACT MILL OR GAS DRIVEN PORTABLE CRUSHER FROM KEENE. A HANDY CHEAP MORTAR AND PESTAL CAN BE MADE FROM IRON PIPE WITH END CAPS ON IT AND A LARGER END CAP THAT DOES NOT FIT THE PIPE TO PLACE YOUR ORE INTO AND THEN CRUSH WITH THE PIPE. YOU WILL NEED A CHANNEL LOCK, PLIERS, A GOOD HAMMER AND AN OLD IRON SKILLET WITH A HANDLE OR AN OLD FLAT IRON GRIDDLE OR OTHER PIECE OF METAL TO POUR SMALL TESTS ONTO. A CONE MOLD WORKS WELL FOR THOSE OF YOU GETTING REALLY SERIOUS ABOUT POURING METALS. AN OLD ELECTRIC FRYING PAN COMES IN HANDY WHEN DRYING OUT SCORIFICATION DISHES, CUPELS AND CRUCIBLES AND FILTERED PRECIOUS METALS. FOR REAL SMALL TEST BATCHES OF LEACH AND ORE YOU CAN USE A CROCK POT THAT STILL WORKS. IT REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF CHEMICALS YOU HAVE TO USE FOR A TEST. IF YOU HAVE WATER DISTILLER USE IT ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE WELL WATER. TRIPLE FILTERED WATER CAN ALSO BE USED. STEAM DISTILLED WATER IS AVAILABLE IN GROCERY STORES. RUBBER GLOVES WILL PROTECT YOUR HANDS FROM SOME OF THE CHEMICALS. LYE BURNS VERY QUICKLY SO DOES NITRIC AND MURIATIC ACID (DILUTE HYDROCHLORIC ACID). WEAR EYE PROTECTION GLASSES OR GOGGLES AND A PLASTIC OR RUBBER APRON THAT YOU MIGHT USE FOR PAINTING TO PROTECT YOUR CLOTHES. TINY SPLASHES OF LEACH ON YOUR CLOTHES WILL EAT A HOLE IN THEM QUITE FAST.

CHAPTER 2 ORES THAT FOOL YOU YOU ARE CURRENTLY WALKING OVER MANY ORES THAT YOU THINK ARE NOT CONTAINING VALUES. THEY LOOK LIKE LEAVE ER RITE THERE ROCK. YOU MIGHT WANT TO RECONSIDER THEM FOR TESTING AND HERES WHY:

HEMATITE AND MAGNETICS CAN HIDE VALUES BASALT CAN BE VERY RICH WITH UNSEEN GOLD VALUES LOCKED UP CHEMICALLY THAT YOU CAN TEST FOR AND EXTRACT. YOU WILL NOT SEE THESE VALUES WITH A MICROSCOPE. GOLD CHLORIDES (ALL 19 FORMS OF THEM) ARE SOLUABLE IN WATER AND THERE ARE PLATINUM CHLORIDES AS WELL BUT NO ONE EVER TALKS ABOUT THESE. SOME OF THE RICHEST GOLD CHLORIDES ARE FOUND IN OCEAN BEDS THAT HAVE BEEN UPLIFTED FROM WHAT WAS ONCE OCEAN FLOOR AND ARE NOW PART OF MOUNTAINS BECAUSE OF UPHEAVELS. THEY ARE WATER SOLUABLE. SOME OF THE RICHEST GOLD MINES HAVE BEEN FOUND IN PYRITE DEPOSITS SO WHEN YOU FIND THEM TEST THEM FOR GOLD. DO NOT OVERLOOK THE POTENTIAL OF IRON PYRITES. I RECENTLY DID A TEST ON A VERY RICH IRON COPPER PYRITE. SOME ROCKS LOOK GREY WITH BLACK STREAKS AND ARE HEAVY DO NOT PASS THESE BY I HAVE LEARNED TO TEST MOST OF THE HEAVY ROCKS I SEE ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE REALLY HEAVY FOR THEIR SIZE. QUARTZ OUTCROPS AND OTHER OUTCROPS MAY NOT HAVE VISIBLE METALLIC GOLD BUT CAN HAVE CHEMICALLY BOUND AND OR METALLIC GOLD ON ONE SIDE OR OTHER OF THE OUTCROP. YOU CAN ALSO EXTRACT GOLD FROM ASHES FROM A FIRE, WOOD, HAY, AND FROM WEEDS GROWING IN A GOLD BEARING AREA. ALWAYS LOOK FOR A WEED CALLED GOLD WEED THAT GROWS HERE IN THE SOUTHWEST. IT GROWS OVER RICH GOLD BEARING AREAS. IN GOLD COUNTRY WHEN YOU SEE AN ARROYO WHERE TWO OR THREE MOUNTAIN BASES ARE COMING TOGETHER AT THE BASE TEST WHATS IN THE WASH TO SEE WHATS IN THE MOUNTAINS SURROUNDING YOU. A MINING ENGINEER NOW PASSED ON TAUGHT ME THIS.

PH TEST YOUR ORES I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THE 4-9 PH RANGE IS A GOOD RANGE TO WORK WITH. GOLD CHLORIDES ARE USUALLY RED AND HAVE A PH BETWEEN 1 AND 7. MANY GOLD CHLORIDES ALSO HAVE FREE MILLING MICRON GOLD PARTICLES COMBINED WITH THEM THAT SHOULD BE TABLED AND REMOVED PRIOR TO LEACHING. THEY MAY ALSO CONTAIN PLATINUM CHLORIDES. ORES CONTAINING ARSENIC BASES WILL HAVE A PH RANGE OF 7-14. THIS INFORMATION CAN BE IMPORTANT WHEN TRYING TO FIRE YOUR ORE IN A MELT DISH. DO YOU NEED AN ACID FLUX, NEUTRAL FLUX OR AN ALKALINE FLUX. KNOWING THE PH CAN HELP YOU WITH THIS. TO TEST PH GRIND YOUR ORE TO 100 -200 MESH AND PUT SOME IN DISTILLED WATER STIR IT UP AND LET IT SETTLE. AFTER AN HOUR OR SO TEST THE PH WITH PH PAPER AND RECORD IT ON PAPER. WRITE A DESCRIPTION OF THE ORE ALONG WITH WHERE IT WAS FOUND AND YOURE GPS READING IF YOU HAVE ONE. NOTE COLOR AND WEIGHT OF YOUR SAMPLE. TRUST ME YOU WILL FORGET WHERE YOU GOT IT IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS. I CANT TELL YOU HOW MANY PEOPLE DO NOT WRITE DOWN WHERE THEY FOUND SOME GOOD ORES.

THE ELECTRICAL LADDER OF METALS MOST FOLKS DO NOT KNOW THAT ALL METALS HAVE ELECTRICAL CHARGES AND WHAT ORDER THEY OCCUR IN. THIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE PRECIOUS METALS CAN BE DROPPED OUT OF SOLUTIONS BASED ON THE PH OF THE SOLUTION AND BECAUSE OF THEIR ELECTRICAL CHARGES GOLD DROPS FIRST THEN THE PLATINUM GROUP METALS THEN SILVER THEN COPPER THEN JUNK METALS THE PHS NOTED IN THE MANUAL WILL KEEP YOU FROM DROPPING JUNK METALS IF YOU PREPARE THE ORE AND BLACK SAND PROPERLY

WORKING WITH CHEMICALS IT IS IMPORTANT TO STAY SAFE WHEN WORKING WITH CHEMICALS. WEARING PROPER PROTECTIVE GEAR DOES NOT MEAN YOU ARE SLOPPY OR WIMPY IT MEANS YOU ARE SMART AND CAREFUL ABOUT WHAT YOU DO AND THAT YOU WANT TO PROTECT YOURSELF AND OTHERS BOTH ACIDS AND BASES CAN EAT THROUGH CLOTHING AND HUMAN FLESH AND IT HURTS.

STRONG ACIDS WILL HAVE A PH OF 1 OR 2 IN A GOOD LEACH STRONG BASES WILL HAVE A PH OF 8 TO 14 AND WILL BURN YOUR SKIN IF YOU GET IT ON YOU. THATS WHY YOU NEED TO KEEP RUNNING WATER FROM A HOSE NEARBY

NEVER NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID IT WILL SPLASH UP INTO THE AIR WITH FORCE. ACID BURNS HURT REALLY BAD. NEVER STAND DIRECTLY OVER AN ACID BOTTLE WHEN OPENING IT. STAND BACK A BIT AND OPEN IT CAREFULLY SO YOU DO NOT BREATHE THE STRONG FUMES THAT CAN COME UP OFF OF IT. THIS CAN DAMAGE YOUR LUNGS!
WHEN MAKING LYE SOLUTIONS PUT YOUR DISTILLED WATER INTO A PLASTIC OR GLASS CONTAINER AND PLACE THAT CONTAINER INTO A POT WITH COOL WATER IN IT. THERE IS A THERMAL REACTION THAT TAKES PLACE WHEN YOU PUT LYE CRYSTALS INTO WATER AND IT MAKES A LOT OF HEAT. DO NOT MIX LYE DIRECTLY IN A METAL POT MAKE IT IN A GLASS OR PLASTIC CONTAINER. TO MAKE YOUR LYE SOLUTION TO USE AS A PH ADJUSTER USE A GOOD TABLESPOON OF LYE TO 8-10 OUNCES OF DISTILLED WATER AND LET IT DISSOLVE COMPLETELY USE ONLY DROPS TO ADJUST YOUR PHS. STIR WELL WHEN DROPPING THIS INTO YOUR LEACH TO ADJUST PH. THEN TEST THE PH TO SEE IF YOU ARE IN RANGE. ONLY USE A FEW DROPS AT A TIME FOR THIS. KEEP YOUR GLASSWARE CLEAN AFTER YOU USE IT. OLD RESIDUES CAN CONTAMINATE YOUR TESTS. A THIN STRIP OF STEEL WOOL TORN OFF AND WRAPPED AROUND A PENCIL CAN BECOME A GOOD TEST TUBE CLEANING BRUSH.. ITS CHEAP AND IT WORKS. KEEP SOME JET DRY LIQUID AROUND THE WORK BENCH. IT COMES IN HANDY WHEY YOU HAVE AN ORE IN WATER AND THERE IS MICRON GOLD FLOATING ON THE TOP OF THE WATER. IT BREAKS THE SURFACE TENSION OF THE WATER AND ALLOWS THE GOLD TO DROP. I USE IT WHEN PANNING WHEN THE GOLD IS FLOATING ON TOP OF THE WATER IN THE PAN. I ALSO USE IT WITH MY SHAKER TABLE TO GET THE MICRON GOLD TO DROP INTO THE GROOVES ON THE TABLE.

PREPARING YOUR ORE ORE PREPERATION RATION IS VERY IMPORTANT. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS CAN BE USED FOR BLACK SAND AND OTHER ORES. MOST ORES LEACH BEST AT 80, 100 AND 200 200 MESH OR MORE. ORES IN BLACK REEF SHOULD BE CONSIDERED TO CONTAIN SULFIDES WHICH MUST BE DRIVEN OFF AT SOME POINT IN YOUR YOUR PROCESS. EITHER ROAST THE ORE AT 350 DEGREES FOR THREE TO FOUR HOURS AFTER YOU HAVE TESTED IT OR AFTER YOU HAVE DROPPED IT OUT OF YOUR LEACH SOLUTION. CRUSH YOUR ORE AND SET ASIDE THE 80, 100 200 MESH. YOU DO THIS BECAUSE SOME ORES WILL LEACH BEST AT DIFFERENT SIZE PARTICLES TEST YOUR ORE TO SEE WHICH SIZE PARTICLE LEACHES BEST OR YOU WILL BE DOING MULTIPLE LEACHES ON THE SAME BATCH ESPECIALLY IF IT IS VERY RICH

The mobile gold plant will take care of all of the above
REMOVING JUNK METALS

CRUSH YOUR ORES OR BLACK SANDS. THIS CAN BE DONE WITH AN ORE CRUSHER THEN PULVERIZED IN AN IMPACT MILL OR MORTAR AND PESTLE OR TUMBLER FOR SMALL TESTS.

YOU CAN ALSO CRUSH ORE IN A CEMENT MIXER TO WHICH HAS BEEN ADDED ROUND RIVER ROCK AND ANY OF THE FOLLOWING SUBSTANCES WITH PLENTY OF WATER. WHEN THE JUNK METALS ARE TAKEN OFF YOU CAN THEN TABLE THE ORE TO GET THE RECOVERABLE METALS OUT PRIOR TO LEACHING. CITRIC ACID (MAKES LEMONADE) TAKES OFF IRON AND JUNK METALS LIKE ALUMINUM, OXIDES AND CALCIUM SALTS. ACETIC ACID (VINEGAR 5 %) DOES THE SAME THING. DILUTED NITRIC ACID 05 % SOLUTION (IF YOU KNOW YOU HAVE NO SILVER IN THE BASIC ORE) A MILD LYE SOLUTION WILL ALSO CLEAN YOUR ORES

YOU MAY HAVE TO RUN THE CEMENT MIXER FOR A DAY OR TWO TO REALLY GET ALL THE OILS, THE OXIDES, CALCIUM SALTS AND DESERT VARNISH OFF (IF YOU LIVE IN THE SOUTHWEST). ONCE THE JUNK METALS ARE OFF OF THE ORE YOU MUST GIVE IT THREE OR FOUR SEPARATE RINSES WITH FRESH WATER THAT YOU TUMBLE IN THE CEMENT MIXER AND POUR OFF. TEST IT WITH PH PAPER TO BE SURE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE MILD ACIDS OR BASE THAT YOU USED. SOMETIMES IT IS NECESSARY TO USE TWO SESSIONS WITH THE CEMENT MIXER AND THE CITRIC OR ACETIC ACID TO GET ALL OF THE JUNK METAL OFF. IF YOU WANT TO RECYCLE YOUR DIRTY CITRIC ACID WATER YOU CAN POUR IT THROUGH GREEN SAND FROM HOME DEPOT TO CLEAN AND REUSE IT. SCORIFICATION TESTING ANOTHER GOOD TEST IS A SCORIFICATION TORCH TEST. GOOD FOR CHECKING FOR THE BEST ORES BEFORE LEACHING YOUR ORE MAY OR MAY NOT CONTAIN ENOUGH METAL TO POUR A BEAD WITH THIS TEST. TAKE FINELY GROUND ORE THE FINER GRIND THE BETTER- 200 MESH WORKS WELL WITH THIS TEST. PUT TO TEASPOON INTO A SMALL SCORIFICATION DISH. ADD THE SAME AMOUNT OF EACH FLUX INGREDIENT. EITHER GOLD SILVER OR PGM FLUX TO THE DISH AND STIR WELL IN THE DISH. YOU CAN USE BORAX (20 MULE TEAM) OR BORAX GLASS BEADS AND BAKING SODA OR ONE OF THE OTHER OF YOUR FAVORITE FLUXES IN EQUAL AMOUNTS. JUST DO NOT USE AN INGREDIENT

THAT WILL PULL SILVER OUT. SEE THE FLUX RECEPIES AT THE BACK OF THIS MANUAL. NOW TAKE SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL JUST ENOUGH TO WET THE MATERIAL IN THE DISH..THIS KEEPS THE MATERIAL FROM BLOWING OUT OF THE DISH WHEN YOU APPLY THE TORCH HEAT. LIGHT THE DISH WITH A MATCH AND LET THE ALCOHOL BURN OFF. YOU MAY NEED TO TRY DIFFERENT FLUXES IN SEPARATE TESTS TO CHECK FOR MELTABLE METAL. YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN FLUXES! . TAKE EITHER AN OXY ACETELENE TORCH OR MAPP GAS TURBO TORCH AND START APPLYING HEAT TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE DISH. SOME PEOPLE ALSO USE A JEWLERS MELT DISH WITH THE HANDLE ON IT. THEY ALSO HOLD THE HEAT OF THE TORCH BETTER. THESE ARE SOLD IN MINING SUPPLY STORES AND AT JEWELERY SUPPLY STORES. THEY ARE HANDY BECAUSE YOU DONT HAVE TO USE TONGS TO HOLD ONTO A SCORIFICATION DISH. NOW APPLY THE HEAT TO THE DISH STARTING FROM THE OUTSIDE AND MAKING A CIRCLE AROUND THE EDGE OF THE DISH. GRADUALLY WORK AROUND CLOSER TO THE MATERIAL AS IT STARTS TO MELT. THIS STEP WILL TAKE A LITTLE TIME SO THAT ALL OF THE MATERIAL MELTS. IF YOU HAVE MELTABLE METAL YOU WILL SEE LITTLE BALLS OF METAL STARTING TO GATHER ON THE SIDES OF THE DISH AND IN THE MIDDLESTAY WITH THE MELTING UNTIL THE DISH IS ORANGE HOT AND THE MELT LOOKS LIKE SMOOTH HONEY. TILT THE DISH AROUND SO THAT THE METAL BALLS GATHER INTO ONE BALL. THIS WILL TAKE A LITTLE PRACTICE SO EXPECT SOME FAILURES AT FIRST. TILT THE DISH SLIGTHTLY TO SEE IF ALL THE MATERIAL IN THE DEEPEST PART OF THE DISH HAS MELTED DO NOT POUR IT UNTIL IT IS ALL MELTED. HAVE YOUR CONE MOLD HOT OR IRON PAN READY FOR A POUR. (IT IS WISE TO HOLD THE MELT DISH OVER THE CONE MOLD OR PAN TO PRE HEAT IT FOR THE POUR.) IF YOU ARE USING AN IRON PAN POUR OUT THE GLASS AHEAD OF THE METAL WHILE STILL APPLYING THE HEAT POUR THE METAL LAST SO IT DOSENT GET LOST IN THE GLASS. IF YOU POUR INTO A CONE MOLD MAKE SURE THAT IT IS COATED WITH CARBON FROM THE TORCH. WHEN THE GLASS IN THE MOLD NO LONGER MOVES ON THE TOP WHEN YOU TILT THE MOLD IT IS READY TO POUR OUT IN A PAN THAT HAS BEEN WARMED BY THE TORCH.

SAFETY TIP ON POURING METALS: NEVER POUR MOLTEN METAL ON CEMENT AS IT WILL EXPLODE UPWARD AND OUTWARD AND COULD BURN YOU AND OR START A FIRE ON WHATEVER IT LANDS ON! WHEN POURING YOUR MELT INTO THE CONE MOLD AT THE SAME TIME HOLD YOUR TORCH FLAME TO THE EDGE OF THE DISH AND THEN USE IT TO PUSH BEHIND THE MOLTEN POOL TO KEEP IT POURING. THIS KEEPS THE MELT LIQUID FLOWING BECAUSE IT MAY COOL TOO FAST AND KEEPS SOME OF YOUR METAL AS A DRIP ON THE EDGE OF THE DISH. IFYOU CAN POUR A BEAD FROM RAW ORE.. GO STAKE OUT A MINING CLAIM!!!! REMEMBER TO COAT THE MOLD/PAN WITH GRAPHITE OR CARBON FROM YOUR ACETELENE TORCH PRIOR TO STARTING THIS PROCESS OR YOUR POUR MAY STICK IN THE MOLD. THIS CAN BE VERY HARD TO REMOVE IF IT STICKS. YOU WILL HAVE TO POUND IT OUT. YOU CAN TORCH TEST YOUR MAGNETIC AND NON MAGNETIC MAGNETIC BLACK SANDS THIS WAY AS WELL AFTER YOU TAKE THE JUNK METALS OFF. OFF BUT CRUSH YOUR BLACK SANDS FIRST MAKING THE PARTICLES AS SMALL AS YOU CAN BECAUSE THEY MELT FASTER THAT WAY. YOU SHOULD ALSO ROAST YOUR BLACK SANDS AS NOTED EARLIER IN THIS MANUAL. YOU CAN TEST LARGER QUANTATIES OF MATERIAL WITH THE JEWLERS MELT DISH WITH THE HANDLE ON IT AS IT RETAINS THE HEAT BETTER THAN THE SCORIFIER DISHES. YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS OF FLUX AND ORE WHEN YOU DO THIS. SOME FOLKS USE JUST THE MELT DISH TO POUR DORE BARS.

SEPARATING BLACK SANDS

DO YOUR SEPARATION WITH DRY SANDS NOT WET WATER TENSION CAN PULL GOLD OUT OF YOUR SANDS ALONG WITH MAGNETICS WHEN USING A MAGNET. I HAVE SEEN THIS HAPPEN MANY TIMES WHEN I TRIED IT WET. I HAVE USED A MAGNETIC RAKE AND A PANNING TUB TO QUICKLY SEPARATE THE MAGNETICS FROM THE NON MAGNETICS IN THE DRY STATE. PRE GRIND YOUR ORE TO 80- 100-200 MESH. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A MORTAR AND PESTEL OR AN IMPACT MILL OR A CEMENT MIXER WITH ROUND RIVER ROCK, WATER AND CITRIC ACID.. SO YOU CAN CRUSH AND CLEAN THE BLACK SANDS AT THE SAME

TIME. SAVE BOTH YOUR MAGNETICS AND NON MAGNETICS BUT KEEP THEM SEPARATE. ONE CHEMIST I KNOW DEVELOPED A FORMULA THAT REMOVED 12 OUNCES OF SILVER AND 2 OUNCES OF GOLD PER TON OF MAGNETIC BLACK SANDS. THESE SANDS DID NOT PRODUCE A TEST FOR EITHER GOLD OR SILVER. THE VALUES WERE LOCKED UP CHEMICALLY AND HAD TO BE TREATED A VERY SPECIAL SIMPLE WAY TO EXTRACT THAT VALUES. MOST PEOPLE THROW AWAY THEIR MAGNETICS.. BAD IDEA! IF YOU USE A TUMBLER OR CEMENT MIXER TO CRUSH YOUR BLACK SANDS AND CLEAN THE JUNK METALS OFF BE SURE TO RINSE THEM THOROUGHLY AS NOTED EARLIER WITH THE JUNK METALS TAKEN OFF YOU CAN TABLE THE SANDS TO GET RECOVERABLE METALS PRIOR TO LEACHING. YOU CAN EVEN AT THIS POINT DO SOME DIRECT SCORIFICATION TESTING. I SAW ONE MAN JUST USE BORAX GLASS BEADS AND BAKING SODA TO POUR A BAR FROM HIS MATERIALS.

IF YOU HAVE MICRON GOLD YOU ARE BETTER OFF USING A WAVE TABLE OR UTECH OR A SHAKER TABLE TO TAKE THE MICRON SIZE METALS OFF OF YOUR ORE. THE PARTICLES ARE SOMETIMES AS SMALL AS 400 MESH OR HIGHER. THESE USUALLY ARE NOT CAUGHT WHEN PANNING OR USING A MECHANICAL GOLD WHEEL. ANOTHER GOOD WAY TO CATCH THIS SUPERFINE GOLD IS TO USE A FILTER SYSTEM THAT HAS A CARBON FILTER IN IT, TO PULL YOUR WATERS THROUGH. I AM TALKING ABOUT THE KIND OF FILTER SYSTEM YOU WOULD USE IN A PUMP HOUSE FILTER. I HAVE TO CHANGE MINE EVERY MONTH THEN I SAVE THEM TO EXTRACT THE PRECIOUS METALS COMING UP FROM MY WELL WITH THE LEACHS I AM ABOUT TO TELL YOU ABOUT IN THE NEXT CHAPTER. I ALSO FILTER THE WATER COMING OFF OF MY EQUIPMENT TO CATCH MICRON GOLD THAT IS IN THE WATER. I WILL ALSO USE A CARBON BLANKET TO CATCH MICRON GOLD IN MY EQUIPMENT WATER.

MAKING LEACHES MY FAVORITE LEACH IS AN SSN (SUPERSATURATED LEACH SOLUTION WITH NITRIC ACID). SSN LEACH LOVES TO GRAB GOLD AND PLATINUM GROUP METALS AND DISSOLVES THEM WITH GUSTO! DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM POT TO MAKE THIS SOLUTION. TO MAKE AN SSN LEACH TAKE UNIODIZED SALT (ROCK SALT WORKS) BOIL YOUR WATER ON A LARGE BURNER OR A PROPANE TURKEY COOKER. DO NOT USE AN ALUMINIUM POT TO MAKE THIS LEACH. USE ENAMAL OR STAINLESS STEEL. YOU KNOW YOU HAVE ENOUGH SALT IN THE BRINE IF SALT REMAINS UN-ABSORBED ON THE BOTTOM OF YOUR BOILING POT. KEEP STIRRING WITH A LARGE PLASTIC SPOON UNTIL THE WATER WILL NOT DISSOLVE ANY MORE SALT AND IT IS SATURATED. THEN LET THIS SALT SOLUTION SETTLE AND COOL A BIT. THEN POUR OFF A MEASURED AMOUNT AND PUT IT INTO BIN A OF YOUR LEACH SYSTEM IF YOU HAVE THE CHEM GOLD UNIT. THEN ADD NITRIC ACID TO A PH OF 1.5 NOW YOUR LEACH IS BORN. THE RATIO IS ABOUT 7 TO 1 OR SO. EASY TO MAKE. MAKE A 2-3 GAL BATCH FOR LEACHING. NOW SLOWLY ADD YOURE FINELY GROUND ORE TO BIN A. IF YOU HAVE THE CHEM GOLD SYSTEM. IT WILL PROBABLY FOAM UP SO DONT DO THIS TOO FAST. STIR IT IN WITH A LONG HANDLED PLASTIC SOUP SPOON AND THEN ADD THE BUBBLER TO THE SYSTEM AFTER ALL YOUR ORE HAS BEEN ADDED. THIS KEEPS THE SOLUTION MOVING IF YOU WANT IT TO ACT FASTER. HOT SOLUTIONS WORK VERY QUICKLY WHEN LEACHING. IN FACT YOU CAN LEACH IN JUST A COUPLE OF HOURS WITH HOT LEACH. NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID.

4 Gold extraction process This process uses chlorine, which is present in easily obtainable household chemicals such as bleach and swimming pool acid (dilute HCl) and has been developed to replace the use of mercury in the extraction of gold from concentrates. It has already been successfully used by SSM's in South Africa. Instead of poisonous products like mercury being discharged into the environment, the chlorine was converted to harmless salt. The mercury amalgam process used by the artisanal miners is unable to treat

refractory ores in which fine gold particles are trapped inside sulphide minerals such as pyrite. The Living Green Gold process was modified so that gold can be extracted even from sulphides. The income for the miner is increased in this way and his health and the environment protected. Another advantage of the new gold extraction process is that the gold is produced as a fine powder usually with a purity of over 98% gold. This powdered gold can be pressed into a solid disk with a simple press . The value of the gold produced is easily determined by weighing and applying the current gold price. The small-scale miner is therefore aware of the value of his product, and unscrupulous buyers cannot make unjustifiable profits by offering too low a price. This again increases the income of the small miners. 6 Leaching Procedure The swimming pool acid usually has a strength of between 30% and33% HCl and is used at this strength because the strength of the acid is important for a good oxidation rate. Care must be taken when diluting the acid. Always wear safety goggles or even better a face shield when working with acid, it could splash up into your eyes. Note: Water should never be poured into acid, the acid should slowly be poured into the water while stirring. The bleach should contain 14 to 16% NaOCl. Sometimes CaOCl (which is HTH granules) can be used by first dissolving 250 g (1 cup) in 1 litre of warm water. The leach is done in a plastic or perspex container or any other material, which is not oxidised by chlorine and will still be strong at high temperatures. 1.5 litre of pool acid and 1 kg of concentrate are added to the 5litre container. In the case where Red-ox Probe is used to measure the (eH) oxidation potential inside the reaction vessel, the Red-ox reading must be maintained at least above 1000 mV to dissolve gold with drops of bleach while stirring or until the reading stays constant above 1000 mV *(4) In the case where process-measuring instruments are unavailable, results from the laboratory (that should be done at Mintek) can be used to estimate the reagent addition.

If 10-50ml of bleach maintains the red-ox reading above 1000 mV, then the addition without the probe measure will be the same as obtained from the lab test work. An extra 10-50 ml of bleach might be added every minute for the first 10 minutes depending on whether the reaction will be faster at the beginning or not . Remember to stir the contents of the container regularly to ensure that the chemicals keep coming into contact with the gold. Generally the leaching process takes 4 hours optimum. However when sulphides like pyrite and bits of iron or rust are present, the chemicals will dissolve these first. The time taken and the amount of chemicals used will need to be increased in that case. Once the leaching has been completed, the pulp is poured through the filter to separate out the liquid from the solids *(6). To speed up the filtration process a low pressure filter has been designed. This uses a motor car tyre pump to create a slight pressure in the vessel and speeds up the filtration of the pulp. *(7). Once the clear solution has been produced, ferrous sulphate/ sodium metabisulphite is added to precipitate the gold *(8). This settles out as a gold powder and may be brown, black or gold in colour depending on how fine the gold is. The dry powder is then poured into the die *(9) and hit with a hammer *(10) to form a gold disk.
DROP YOUR PRECIOUS METALS FROM YOUR LEACH PLEASE NOTE THAT A REALLY RICH ORE WILL START TO DROP VALUES BEFORE YOU START RAISING THE PH UP. I HAVE HAD A RICH ORE START TO DROP AT A PH OF 1-2 WHEN YOU ADD THE T-6. THE SOLUTION WILL START TO LOOK FUZZY AND THEN YOU WILL SEE CLOUDS OF MATERIALS START TO DROP OUT AND FALL TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CONTAINER. HOWEVER STILL BRING YOUR PH UP TO 7. I OFTEN WILL USE A CROCK POT FOR A FIRST TEST AND SOMETIMES JUST A TEST TUBE WILL DO FOR A SMALL TEST. THE AMOUNT YOU USE WILL DEPEND ON HOW MUCH LEACH YOU HAVE. MORE IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER AS SOME FOLKS BELIEVE. LET THE METALS DROP OUT AND SETTLE IN BIN B OR ANOTHER CONTAINER. THEN WHEN THE SOLUTION ON TOP LOOKS CLEAR SLOWLY OPEN THE DRAIN VALVE ON BIN B TO ALLOW THE LEACH TO COLLECT IN THE COFFEE OR OTHER FILTER THAT YOU PUT INTO THE BOWL LIKE DEPRESSION ON BIN C. CUT UP OLD SHEETS WORK WELL AS FILTERS. MAKE SURE THAT THE YELLOW BUCKET IS IN PLACE UNDER BIN C BEFORE YOU DRAIN THE PRECIPITATED METALS INTO BIN C. JUST

OPEN THE VALVE ON THE BIN B TO SLOWLY DRAIN THE PRECIPS INTO THE FILTER. DO NOT OVERFLOW THE FILTER AND WASTE ALL THE WORK YOU HAVE DONE. FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT DO NOT HAVE THE CHEM GOLD SYSTEM NOW IS THE TIME TO FILTER THE PRECIPITATED METAL IN YOUR COFFEE OR OTHER FILTER OVER A BUCKET. BIG PLASTIC COLLANDER STRAINERS FROM THE DOLLAR STORE FIT RIGHT INTO THE TOP OF A FIVE GALLON BUCKET AND DO A GOOD JOB. THE BIG COFFEE FILTERS FROM THE COMPANY MENTIONED IN THIS MANUAL ALSO DO A GOOD JOB. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO DO NOT WANT TO USE T-6 OR BIG RED YOU CAN USE OTHER PRECIPITANTS LIKE ZINC (BUT DONT USE ZINC WITH IODINE LEACHES AS YOU CANNOT RECOVER THE IODINE IF YOU DO). FERROUS SULFATE AND MANY OTHER PRECIPITANTS ARE ALSO USED BUT CAN LEAVE METALS BEHIND THAT HAVE TO BE DEALT WITH LATER. T-6 LOCKS UP THE REMAINING JUNK METALS SO THAT THEY DO NOT CONTAMINATE THE ENVRIONMENT. BE SURE TO CAREFULLY AND GENTLY RINSE THE PRECIPS IN THE FILTER WITH THREE OR FOUR RINSES OF FRESH CLEAN WATER. DO NOT USE A HIGH PRESSURE RINSE BECAUSE PRESSURE CAN FORCE YOUR PRECIPS THOROUGH THE FILTER INTO THE SOLUTION AGAIN. YOU NEED TO CAREFULLY RINSE OFF ALL THE SALT AND NITRIC ACID BEFORE YOU PROCEED. PH TEST TO DETERMINE IF ALL THE ACID IS GONE FROM YOUR FILTERED MATERIAL.

DRYING YOUR FILTERS NOTE WELL: HOPEFULLY YOU WEIGHED YOUR FILTER PRIOR TO USING IT AND MARKED THE SIDE OF IT WITH THE WEIGHT IN GRAMS. USE A PERMANENT BLACK MARKER FOR THIS. THEN YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH METAL YOU WILL GET FROM YOUR DROP AFTER IT IS DRIED AS NOTED BELOW. THE TOTAL IN METAL THAT YOU SHOULD GET WILL BE OF THE TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE DRIED FILTERED MATERIAL AND THE FILTER WHEN YOU GO TO FIRE IT (THE FILTER ADDS CARBON TO THE MELT). SUBTRACT THE WEIGHT OF THE FILTER FROM THE TOTAL DRIED WEIGHT OF THE FILTER AND THE MATERIAL TOGETHER TO GET THIS NUMBER. THEN DIVIDE IT BY FOUR FOR A TOTAL IN GRAMS. ITS IMPORTANT THAT YOUR FILTERED SOLUTION IS CLEAR. IF IT IS NOT IT NEEDS TO BE FILTERED AGAIN. YOU CAN USE THE SAME FILTER THAT YOU HAVE ALREADY CAPTURED YOUR PRECIPS IN BECAUSE IT WILL ACT AS A DOUBLE FILTER FOR YOU. IF YOU DONT LIKE THAT IDEA USE A NEW ONE. IF YOU HAVE A LOT OF COLOR REMAINING IN YOUR LEACH FLUID TRY ADDING A LITTLE MORE T-6 AND RAISE THE PH UP OR DOWN A LITTLE TO SEE IF MORE METAL DROPS OUT. I HAVE HAD TO DO THIS SEVERAL TIMES IN THE PAST.

NOW IS THE TIME TO MENTION THAT YOU CAN RECYCLE YOUR LEACH SOLUTION BACK INTO BIN A OR YOU CAN RECHARGE YOUR SOLUTION IN A BUCKET. CHECK YOUR PH AND ADD ACID AND SALT TO BRING IT BACK TO LEACHING RANGE AND ITS READY TO USE AGAIN. THE MATERIAL IN YOUR FILTER WILL BE YOUR PRECIOUS METALS. YOU CAN GENERALLY TELL BY THE COLOR OF THE MATERIAL WHAT YOU HAVE AS A PRECIOUS METAL. DARK RUSTY BROWN IS USUALLY GOLD AND GREY IS USUALLY PLATINUM GROUP METALS. AFTER YOU FILTER IS SEMI DRY YOU CAN TRANSFER IT TO A ELECTRIC FRYING PAN AND REALLY DRY IT. USE A TEMPERATURE OF 250-350 DEGREES FOR A MINIMUM OF 2 HOURS. I USUALLY DRY THEM FOR 3-4 HOURS. THIS WILL DRIVE ANY SULFIDES OFF THAT YOU MAY NOT HAVE ROASTED OFF EARLIER.

LEACH DISPOSAL TO DISPOSE OF YOUR LEACH AFTER IT HAS BEEN USED 8 OR SO TIMES TAKE YOUR SSN SOLUTION AND NEUTRALIZE IT WITH UREA. DROP IT SLOWLY INTO THE LEACH UNTIL ALL BUBBLING CEASES. IN CASE YOU LET YOUR SSN LEACH SOLUTION GO DRY JUST ADD WATER TO RE-DISSOLVE THE SALT THAT WILL BE EVIDENT IN A BUCKET IF THE FLUIDS EVAPORATE LIKE IT CAN HERE IN ARIZONA. THE SALT CAN BE REUSED OVER AND OVER AGAIN. JUST ADD THE SALT AND THE WATER IN AN ENAMEL POT COOK IT TO SATURATE IT AGAIN AND POUR IT IN YOUR BUCKET FOR RECHARGING WITH THE ACID.

WORKING WITH MOLTEN METAL CAN BE DANGEROUS! SAFETY ISSUES

ALWAYS WEAR A PROTECTIVE FACE SHIELD GLOVES BUILT FOR THERMAL PROTECTION. MOST MINING STORES SELL THESE. WEAR A PROTECTIVE APRON HAVE A CLEAR UNOBSTRUCTED WORK SPACE GATHER ALL THE MATERIALS YOU WILL NEED BEFORE YOU START

YOU MAY HAVE TO HAVE A PLATFORM ON WHICH TO PLACE YOUR CONE MOLD TO RAISE IT UP OFF OF THE GROUND. I USE CONCRETE BLOCKS BECAUSE THE LENGTH OF THE TONGS OR OTHER POURING DEVICES HAVE LONG HANDLES AND MIGHT HIT THE GROUND WHEN TILTING AND POURING A HEAVY CRUCIBLE. WHEN I USE THE BLOCKS I PUT A THERMAL SHIELD ON THE TOP IN CASE THE MOLTEN METAL JUMPS OUT OF THE MOLD AND HITS THE CONCRETE. (THE METAL WOULD EXPLODE UP AND OUT) MOLTEN METAL STICKS TO FLESH AND CANNOT BE REMOVED UNTIL IT IS COOL. IT HURTS REALLY BAD! KEEP OTHERS OUT OF YOUR WORK SPACE AND DO NOT LET ANYONE BREAK YOURE CONCENTRATION WHEN POURING. IF YOU NEED A HELPER BE SURE THAT THEY WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. IN SOME CASES YOUR HELPER MAY HAVE TO FOLLOW THE CRUCIBLE OUT OF THE FURNACE WITH AN ACETELENE TORCH ON IT TO KEEP YOUR CRUCIBLE HOT WHILE YOU POUR YOUR METALESPECIALLY IF THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE IS COLD. THIS PREVENTS LEAVING METAL IN THE CRUCIBLE BECAUSE IT COOLS TOO QUICKLY. PREHEAT YOUR TONGS PRIOR TO LIFTING YOUR CRUCIBLE. A COLD TONG CAN CRACK YOUR CRUCIBLE. PREHEAT YOUR MOLD. IF YOU USE A JEWLERS MELT DISH AND HAVE POURED YOUR MELT INTO A MOLD AND IT IS COOL ENOUGH (JUST TAKES A FEW MINUTES) TO DUMP OUT OF THE MOLD.. KEEP YOUR FACE AWAY FROM THE BUTTON BECAUSE WHEN COOLING THE BUTTON WILL SPALL (SNAP APART). REMEMBER IT SHATTERS IN SHARP PIECES AND THE GLASS CAN CAUSE SOME NASTY CUTS ON YOUR FACE AND HANDS. I USUALLY TURN THE MOLD OVER ON TOP OF THE BUTTON TO KEEP THE PIECES FROM HEADING MY WAY. I ALSO HAVE COVERED THE BUTTON WITH A SCORIFICATION DISH TURNED UPSIDE DOWN OVER IT. CHECK YOUR BUTTON AT THE TIP FOR METAL. WITH SOME FLUXES THE BUTTON WILL BE LARGE AND NOTICABLE AND WILL REQUIRE THAT YOU USE A HAMMER TO BREAK THE GLASS AWAY FROM THE BUTTON. YOU KNOW YOU HAVE THE RIGHT FLUX IF THE BUTTON BREAKS AWAY CLEAN FROM THE GLASS. MOST PEOPLE POUND THIS INTO A CUBE FOR CUPELLING. DO NOT HAVE WATER NEAR THE POUR. THE SLIGHEST AMOUNT OF WATER IN A CONE MOLD OR A DRIP FROM AN AWNING OR A DROP OF SWEAT CAN CAUSE A STEAM EXPLOSION WHEN POURING METALS.

DO NOT POUR IN THE RAIN IN CASE A WIND GUST SHOULD BLOW DROPS OF WATER INTO YOUR MOLTEN METAL.

SIMPLE FLUXES THERE ARE OXIDIZING FLUXES (THAT ADD OXYGEN TO THE SMELT) AND REDUCING FLUXES (THAT WILL REMOVE OXYGEN AND IMPURITIES FROM THE SMELT) AND NEUTRAL FLUXES (THAT DO NOT REDUCE OR OXIDIZE). FLUXES COME IN MANY FORMULATIONS SOME OF THE EASY ONES ARE VERY SIMPLE FOR EXAMPLE: 1. BORAX GLASS AND BAKING SODA + ORE 2. BORAX (TWENTY MULE TEAM) AND BAKING SODA +ORE 3. BORIC ACID AND BORAX (TWENTY MULE TEAM) +ORE 4. LIME CAN BE ADDED TO THIN THE MIXTURE WITH SOME ORES YOU MIGHT NEED THIS. SOME ORES WHEN MOLTEN WILL BE TOO THICK TO POUR EASILY. YOUR MELT SHOULD HAVE THE CONSISTENCY OF WATER.. NICE AND THIN. 5. FLUROSPAR CAN BE ADDED TO THIN A POUR. FLUROSPAR AND LIME CAN BE ADDED TOGETHER TO THIN A POUR. 6. A LONG INCH OR LARGER PIPE CAN BE USED AS A DELIVERY SYSTEM FOR LIME AND OTHER INGREDIENTS INTO THE CRUCIBLE WHEN IT IS STILL IN THE GAS FURNACE. I USE A FUNNEL IN THE TOP OF THE PIPE TO ADD INGREDIENTS TO A CRUCIBLE WHEN IT LOOKS TOO THICK. YOU NEED TO TAP THE PIPE FOR ALL THE POWDER TO MAKE IT DOWN INTO THE CRUCIBLE. IF YOU ADD INGREDIENTS THIS WAY ADD ANOTHER 45 MINUTES TO YOUR SMELT FOR FURNACE WORK. IF YOU ARE DOING THIS WITH A TORCH AND A JEWLERS MELT DISH JUST ADD THE THINNERS AND COOK IT UNTIL IT ALL MELTS AND THE MOLTEN METAL LOOKS SMOOTH LIKE HONEY AND THERE ARE NO UNMELTED ORES IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISH. A MINT FLUX REQUIRES THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS: ONE PART ORE ONE PART BORAX ONE PART SILICA ONE PART SODA ASH ONE PART MANGANESE DIOXIDE

(IF YOU HAVE SILVER IN YOUR ORE REMOVE THE MANGANESE DIOXIDE AND REPLACE IT WITH POTASSIUM NITRATE). PLACE THE POTASSIUM NITRATE ON TOP OF THE ORE AFTER YOU HAVE MIXED THE ORE THOROUGHLY WITH THE REST OF THE FLUX INGREDIENTS.. DO NOT MIX IT INTO THE ORE FLUX MIXTURE ITSELF. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH POTASSIUM NITRATE AS IT CAN COMBUST WITH OTHER MATERIALS IF IT COMES IN CONTACT WITH THEM. STORE THIS VERY SAFELY. THE POTASSIUM NITRATE RELEASES OXYGEN AND REMOVES IMPURITIES FROM THE METALS IN THE POUR BY OXIDATION. OTHER TIPS ABOUT SMELTS AND MELTS JUST REMEMBER TO WEIGH OUT BY VOLUME YOUR ORES AND FLUX MATERIALS. MEASURE OUT HALF OF THE FLUX WITH THE ORE THEN ADD IT TO A CRUCIBLE OR MELT DISH OR SCORIFICATION DISH AND COVER IT WITH THE REMAINING FLUX. MOST PEOPLE SMELT IN AN OVEN OR FURNACE AT 2000-2100 DEGREE TEMPERATURES. YOU SHOULD SMELT A MINIMUM OF HOUR PREFERRABLY 45 MINUTES OR LONGER. USE A THERMOCOUPLE TO DETERMINE THE TEMPERATURES OF YOUR GAS FURNACE. I HAVE DRILLED A HOLE INTO THE WALL OF MY GAS FURNACE FOR INSERTION OF THE THERMPCOUPLE WITH THE METER ON IT. I HANG THE METER NEARBY TO ALWAYS VISUALIZE THE TEMPERATURE IN MY FURNACE. FOR ASSAY TON ASSAY USE 3 OZ OF FLUX AND 14.58 GRAMS OF ORE. FOR EACH MILLIGRAM OF BEAD WT MULTIPLY 2 TIMES THE AMOUNT OF THE BEAD WEIGHT FOR YOUR OZS PER TON FIGURE.

YOU CAN BUY FLUXES FROM ACTION MINING IN NEVADA THEY HAVE THE FOLLOWING: SILVER CHLORIDE FLUX GOLD CHLORIDE FLUX PLATINUM FLUX LEAD CAUSES PROBLEMS IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE LIKE TO USE LEAD AS A ELEMENT TO GATHER THE METALS IN GOLD/PLATINUM ORE WITH. I DONT LIKE TO USE LEAD AND PREFER TO USE SILVER INSTEAD. THIS CAN BE SILVER THAT YOU HAVE DROPPED OUT OF SOLUTION OR SILVER THAT COMES FROM OTHER SOURCES. WEIGH THE SILVER IN GRAMS WHEN YOU USE IT BEFORE YOU START. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE SILVER AT A LATER TIME WITH NITRIC ACID AND WEIGH THE REMAINDER. SOME PEOPLE USE COPPER FOR A GATHERING METAL. IF YOU ARE COMFORTABLE USING LEAD JUST REMEMBER IT IS A HEALTH HAZARD.

WHEN THE FURNACE IS ON AND YOU USE LEAD SOME OF IT VOLITALIZES INTO THE AIR WHICH YOU MIGHT BE BREATHING LEAD AND OTHER HEAVY METALS REQURE CHELATING (REMOVAL) FROM YOUR BODY OR ELSE YOU CAN BECOME ILL. IF YOU USE LEAD REMOVE YOUR CLOTHING AND LEAVE THESE CONTAMINATED ARTICLES IN YOUR GARAGE. DO NOT BRING THEM INTO YOUR HOUSE. HAVE ANOTHER CLEAN SET OF CLOTHES TO CHANGE INTO AFTER SMELTING WITH LEAD. WASH CONTAMINATED CLOTHING SEPERATELY FROM HOUSEHOLD CLOTHING.

CUPELLING FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO DO USE A LEAD BASED FLUX AND YOU POUR A BUTTON YOU WILL NEED TO CUPEL THE BUTTON IN AN ELECTRIC FURNACE TO ABSORB THE LEAD INTO THE CUPEL. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ANY PRECIOUS METAL LEFT AFTER THE LEAD BURNS/ABSORBS OFF. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE NEVER DONE THIS YOU MUST FOLLOW THESE DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY: SET YOUR FURNACE TO 1750 DEGREES AND OPEN THE DOOR OF THE FURNACE JUST A CRACK TO LET SOME OXYGEN IN.. AND WAIT AS LONG AS IT TAKES FOR THE POOL OF METAL TO FORM A BALL IN THE CUPEL. IF ITS STILL A POOL ITS NOT DONE YET. THE PRECIOUS METALS IN THE CUPEL WILL SOLIDIFY INTO A ROUND BALL AT THAT TEMPERATURE IF THEY ARE PRESENT IN YOUR CUPEL (BECAUSE THEY DONT MELT AT THAT TEMPERATURE). IF YOU HAVE A SOLID BEAD THAT FORMS TAKE IT OUT AND LET THE CUPEL COOL (IT MAY BE VERY TINY AND WILL NEED TO BE SEEN WITH A MICROMETER OR A MICROSCOPE). THE IMPORTANT POINT IS TO LET IT COOK LONG ENOUGH TO GET THE LEAD OFF OF THE BEAD. IF YOU HAVE NO BEAD YOU DO NOT HAVE GOOD ORE.

CHELATION CHELATION IS DONE BY TAKING AN ORAL PRODUCT THAT CAN GRAB THE HEAVY METALS OUT OF YOUR TISSUES. IT IS ADVISABLE TO USE A CHELATOR DAILY AS MOST OF USE HAVE HEAVY METAL TOXICITY BEFORE WE EVER DO ANY WORK WITH METALS THAT WE MINE. THERE ARE SEVERAL PRODUCTS THAT CAN BE USED CALCIUM EDTA, AND CHELOREX ARE TWO OF THEM. ACTION MINING CARRIES THE EDTA.

LIES YOU HAVE BEEN TOLD ABOUT PLATINUM A NUMBER OF YEARS AGO (1939) THE METALS MARKET MAKERS SIGNED AN AGREEMENT WITH RUSSIA RELATING TO PLATINUM. IT WAS AGREED THAT A LIE WOULD BE TOLD ABOUT MINING PLATINUM IN THE UNITED STATES IE: THAT THERE IS NO PLATINUM IN THE USA. IF YOU TELL A LIE IN THE WORLD LONG ENOUGH IT BECOMES POPULAR BELIEF. THOUSANDS OF MINERS HAVE OVERLOOKED PLATINUM IN THEIR LEACHES AND IN THEIR ORES BECAUSE OF THIS. THERE ARE MILLIONS OF DOLLARS LYING AROUND IN OLD TAILING PILES THAT THE OLD PROSPECTORS DID NOT KNOW WAS THERE WAITING TO BE EXTRACTED. EVEN THE SPANISH IGNORED PLATINUM IN THEIR MINING PROCESSES (THEY THOUGH IT WAS SILVER). PLATINUM WILL MELT WHEN COMBINED WITH OTHER PRECIOUS METALS LIKE GOLD SILVER COPPER AND OTHER METALS LIKE LEAD AND WITH YOUR FLUX MATERIALS . PURE PLATINUM HAS A VERY HIGH MELTING POINT THAT SMALL MINERS CANNOT ACHIEVE WITH CONVENTIONAL METHODS. . IT TAKES 2400 DEGREES OR SO TO MELT IT. MOST REFINERS IN THE SA WILL NOT ACCEPT MATERIAL FOR REFINING THAT A MINER CLAIMS HAS PLATINUM. GENERALLY IT HAS TO BE SPECTROGRAPHED TO VERIFY THE PLATINUM. THEN IT HAS TO BE SENT TO PLACES LIKE BELGIUM. CALL MIKE AT ACTION MINING AND ASK HIM ABOUT THIS. HE CAN TELL YOU WHERE TO SEND PGMS FOR REFINING. PLATINUM CAN OCCUR IN PLACER FORM. SOMETIMES IT IS A BRIGHT SHINY SILVER TO WHITE NUGGET. IF COMBINED WITH OTHER METALS IT CAN BE A DULL DARK GREY OR EVEN BLACK. SO IF YOU GET THESE PARTICLES IN YOUR DRY WASHER OR SLUICE DONT THROW THEM AWAY THEY WILL NOT DISSOLVE IN NITRIC ACID AND WATER BUT SOME OF THE JUNK METALS WILL. PLATINUM CAN ALSO BE PRESENT IN THE FORM OF A CHLORIDE SALT THAT CAN DISSOLVE IN WATER WITH OTHER SALTS. THIS FORM OF PLATINUM CAN BE DROPPED OUT AND LEACHED FROM GOLD CHLORIDE ORES CONTAINING PLATINUM SALTS. NO ONE EVER TALKS ABOUT THIS. THINK ABOUT THIS FOR A SECOND WHAT OTHER SALTS CAN IT COMBINE WITH? THATS RIGHT JUST PLAIN OLD ROCK SALT,

DESERT SALTS, GREAT SALT LAKE SALTS AND THE SALT FLATS IN THE SOUTH WEST AND WESTERN USA. THE METHODS OUTLINED ABOVE WILL DROP BOTH GOLD AND PLATINUM CHLORIDES. WHEN FIRED TOGETHER BOTH GOLD AND PLATINUM WILL FORM A BUTTON THAT IS ROUGH THAT HAS A DIMPLE IN THE CENTER AND WILL HAVE BUBBLES IN THE BUTTON. THE BUTTON WHEN VISUALIZED UNDER A MICROSCOPE MAY HAVE A CROSS HATCH PATTERN ON THE SURFACE OF THE METAL. THE BUTTON HAS TO BE TREATED WITH AQUA REGIA TO SEPARATE THE METALS. THIS IS A LONG INVOLVED PROCESS. YOU CAN GET THE BOOK RECOVERY & REFINING OF PRECIOUS METALS BY C.W. AMMEN TO LEARN THIS PROCESS. CHAPTER SEVEN OTHER INTERESTING THINGS GOLD FROM OTHER MATERIALS WHENEVER YOU FIND ASHES FROM A FIRE PIT IN GOLD COUNTRY DO A GOLD TEST ON IT. IF IT TESTS GOOD YOU ALREADY HAVE FOUND MATERIAL THAT HAS HAD THE SULFIDES BURNED OUT OF IT. TAKE THIS MATERIAL HOME WITH YOU AND LEACH IT. YOU CAN FIND GOOD VALUES IN THESE ASHES. GRASSES CAN BE TESTED THE SAME WAY SO CAN MULCHES, MATERIALS FROM BOGS, PEAT MOSS AND DEAD FOREST MATERIALS. ACCORDING TO MIKE AT GOLDMINE WORLD YOU CAN LEACH METAL OUT OF HAY AND FROM MUD FOUND IN A GOLD BEARING AREAS. TAKE A LOOK AT HIS WEBSITE. HE HAS A GOOD MANUAL DESCRIBING THESE PROCESSES. MIKE ALSO SELLS A MANUAL THAT DESCRIBES LEACHING PRECIOUS METALS FROM SALT. THIS IS A VERY EASY PROCESS AND FOR SOME PEOPLE BECOMES A PRIMARY SOURCE OF INCOME.

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