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Coastal Erosion from waves 1. Hydraulic Action Sheer force of the waves beating down on the coast.

. High Pressure. 2. Abrasion Waves carrying sediment which is then used to erode the coast. 3. Attrition Sediment and particles carried down by the river colliding with each other. 4. Solution Rock minerals which can be dissolved by sea water, breaking rocks down. Sediment Transport by Waves 1. Traction Heavy boulders rolling along the sea bed, brought down by the river. 2. Saltation Small/Medium size sediments bouncing along the sea bed in a leap from motion. 3. Suspension Small/Medium size sediments carried by the waves in the sea water. 4. Solution Rock minerals dissolved by the sea water, breaking rocks down. Waves are formed by wind blowing over the surface of the water. They are pulses of energy moving through the sea water. How do waves break? As the wave approaches the coast the circular motions of the water particles become slowed down and distorted. Therefore the wave increases in height and slows down. The water particles at the top of the wave are quicker than those closer to the sea bed and so it becomes unstable and topples over; releasing its energy on the coast. What determines the energy of a wave? Wind Speed Higher the wind speed, higher the energy of the wave. The frictional drag exerted on the water has the potential to transfer more energy. (Think storms) Wind Duration Longer the wind is blowing, the higher the energy. More energy being transferred. Wave Fetch The fetch is the distance the wave producing winds can blow over open sea. Longer the fetch, more energy. Different Waves Destructive Frequent (11-15 waves per minute). Short, steep waves that is high in relation to wavelength. Stronger backwash than swash. Drags material back down the beach. Constructive Infrequent (6-9 waves per minute). Long, shallow waves that is low in relation to wavelength. Stronger swash than backwash. Carries material up the beach.

Headlands and Bays Where the bay has been formed was softer rock. It has been eroded away from waves, hydraulic action, attrition abrasion and solution. The headlands that stick out are made of harder rock and so they dont erode back. As waves move towards headlands they focus maximum energy on the headland increasing erosion. As waves move towards the beach they decrease in height as friction increases into the bay. Eroded material from the headlands is transported to the bays and trapped to form beaches.

Coastal Landforms 1. Abrasion + Hydraulic Action which causes erosion at cliff base. 2. Erosion creates undercut of cliff base Wave cut notch 3. Overhang is created. Wave cut notch deepens therefore overhang cant be supported. Collapses and retreats. 4. Cliff retreat leaves a rocky platform in front of cliffs Wave cut platform 5. Abrasion + Hydraulic Action occur more rapidly along lines of weakness joints. 6. Erosion along fault/joint produces cave. 7. Cave merging from opposite sides of headland for arch. 8. Roof of arch cant be supported so a stack if formed. 9. Continued erosion stack collapses stump

Longshore drift This involves a zigzag movement of sediment up the beach. Waves break at an angle on the shore, so sediment is deposited diagonally on the shore. The backwash scours the sediment down the beach at right angles to the coastline. With this being repeated lots of times the sediment moves along the shore.

Human activity on the coast 1. Recreation Dog walking, holiday makers. 2. Industry ports, large ships with trade, tourism. 3. Flooding sea levels rise due to climate or storms. Bad for the houses/buildings/hotels etc. 4. Pollution Litter from tourists, dog mess on beaches and pollution from ships. 5. Erosion Cliff collapse and retreat threatening houses, tourists etc. 6. Conservation Beautiful landscapes and preserved. Protecting rare wildlife. Coastal Management Usually done to Prevent erosion. (Might reach houses/building etc. dangerous. Loose tourism etc) Preserve beaches that bring a lot of tourism etc. The government carry out a cost-benefit analysis. This basically finds out if the coastal management scheme will be worthwhile. Will they get a substantial profit from it? Also they must realise how long the scheme will last and the environmental impacts of any work that is carried out (machines etc). Soft Management Strategies Prevent new building in coastal areas which are threatened by flooding or erosion. Often very vulnerable areas are red-lined so that any new building is forbidden. Also they may choose to let nature take its course and encourage residents and businesses to relocate with the assistance of compensation packages. This way, little money is spent, natural processes are not being interfered with so there are no negative knock on effects. On the other hand many residents are reluctant to move because they have emotional memories from there. They may not have the money to move. People often argue to the council that the money to compensate is not enough and they are not being protected.

Hard Management Strategies Sea Wall Concrete walls built to reflect the wave attack on the coast preventing erosion of the land behind.

Gabions Small Mesh cage filled with small rocks. They are able to move a little by are strong. They allow water in but absorb the energy of the wave and dissipate wave energy. Water can move inside to reduce risk of landslide and mudflows.

Armour Blocks Large boulders dumped on beach. Very strong and protects coast from being eroded. Absorbs the energy and prevents undercutting by erosion and collapse.

Revetments Open structure of planks to absorb wave energy allowing water through to build up sediment beyond. Revetments These are sloping, slatted, timber walls set at about 45*. They are made from hard woods and the slats in them means water is partly reflected but partly dissipated + some of the water percolates between the slats. They stop undercutting and collapse of the cliff.

Groynes Wooden or steel piling. Concrete wall. Prevents longshore drift by trapping the materials/sediments.

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