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FASHION DISPOSAL OR DISPOSAL OF FASHION WASTE

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE

A RESEARCH REPORT ON FASHION DISPOSAL/ DISPOSAL OF FASHION WASTE

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

Under the guidance of : Ms.GulnazBano NIFT, Bangalore

13th of May, 2013

Submitted By : EktaArgal Nikita Prasad ShaliniSinha FD-VI Batch 2010-1014

DECLARATION

We, EktaArgal, Nikita Prasad and ShaliniSinha hereby declare that the Research Study document submitted to the Department of Fashion Design, NIFT, Bangalore as part of our academic requirements is an original work done by us under the supervision of Ms. GulnazBano, MFM, NIFT, Bangalore.

EktaArgal Nikita Prasad ShaliniSinha

Faculty Guide Ms.GulnazBano MFM, NIFT, Bangalore

CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that EktaArgal, Nikita Prasad and ShaliniSinha, Semester VI, Batch 20102014has undergone the Reseach Study on Fashion Disposal/ Disposal of Fashion Waste. Also, certified that this Research Methodology Document is their bonafide work.

EktaArgal Nkita Prasad ShaliniSinha Ms. GulnazBano Department of Masters of Fashion Management NIFT, Bangalore Place : Bangalore Date :13.5.2013

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This work is not a sole endeavour but rather an integrated effort of many individuals directedtowards the same goal. We feel indebted to several authors and researchers who helped us in the secondary data collection as well as in understanding of various issues relating to our topic. We would like to extend our gratitude towards the college NIFT, for providing us opportunity of carrying out this research. We would also like to thank our Director Mr. Shivalingam Sir NIFT, Bangalore, our Mentor Ms. GulnazBano for her support, patience and excellent correctionsand all those people who directly or indirectly has helped us in the Data-Collection process. This document would not have seen the light of the day without their cooperation.

CONTENT

CHAPTER NAME

PAGE NO.

CONTENT CONTENT
1 2 3-4 5-12 13 14

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Introduction Review of Literature Research Methodology Data Analysis Conclusion Suggestion Appendix: Annexure

List of Figures
S No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Consumer shopping behavior No. of clothes purchased by a consumer Wardrobe culling habit Clothes disposal by a consumer Trend conscious consumer Are u aware of eco-friendly fashion
Do you find trendy apparels in eco-friendly store

Description

Page 5 6 7 7 8 9 10 11

Are Consumers Willing To Accept A Take Back System For Clothing

9 10

Venn diagram showing methods of disposal of clothin by consumers Are Consumers Willing To Pay More For Bio Degradable Disposable Garments

11 12

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Venn diagram showing criteria if purchasing in fast fashion stores by consumers

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CHAPTER 1
INTRODCTION

CONTENT

Executive Summary
Now-a-days, with the development in technology, fashion industry has become far more affordable to millions of consumer but at the same time it is one of the most polluting and waste generating sectors in the world.Globalization has made it possible to produce clothing at increasingly lower prices, prices so low that many consumers consider this clothing to be disposable. Some call it fast fashion, the clothing equivalent of fast food. Many brands like Zara, H&M, C&A,etc are bringing fashion forward styles to the masses but fast fashion garments are generally designed to only last around 10wears. It is surely in such case that almost everyone with even a passing interest in their wardrobe must accumulate enough stuff in their wardrobe that, at some stage, sooner or later ,theyll need to get rid of some of it. With such fast fashion clothes that restocks every week, clothes have become consumption goods that increasingly constitutes a landfill problem along with several other environmental threats. The purpose of research is to do detail study of the above mentioned problem and find ways of dealing with the same. Secondly, being a design student we need to have knowledge about Eco-Friendly Fashion and Zero-Waste Fashion. Therefore this research also focuses on in depth concept study of Eco-Friendly Fashion and Zero-Waste Design and finding of new ways to Recycle, Resuse and Regenerate.

CHAPTER 2
REVIEW OF LITERATURE

Review of Literature
S. No. 1. ARTICLE SUMMARY This research focuses s on how waste is generated and what are the different ways to reduce the environment impact of it.

SUSTAINABILITY THEORY BY JESS

2.

WASTE AND WANT BY In her research she traces the Progressive obsolescence of clothing and other consumer goods to the 1920s. She talks SUSAN STRASSES
about conservation of clothes during the world war I which is needed again in 21st century. She promotes use of ecofriendly fashion and reducing fashion waste.

3.

GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK BY CHRISTINA CARDWELL

In her research Christina highlights the benefits of ecofriendly fashion and rise of green technology and the ways to make it budget friendly. she also focuses on how various industries do their part to counter wastefulness by creating upcycled organic and natural fashion lines that employ green practices such as GO VINTAGE, BUY LOCAL, CHECK THE LABEL etc. In this research a study about the purchasing of environmentally friendly clothing as a subset of environmental behaviour is done by conducting surveys. its research talks about independent variable- predictors: fashion orientation, shopping orientation and environmental concern and eco-friendly behaviours as well as dependent variable purchase intention regarding environmentally friendly fashion. This research shows the importance of globalization, consumerism and recycling that has made it possible to produce clothing at lower prices. It also makes us aware about how fast fashion leaves a polluting footprints and generates environmental and occupational hazards.

4.

ARE FASHION CONSCIOUS CONSUMERS MORE LIKELY TO ADOPT ECOFRIENDLY CLOTHING? BY HAE JIN GAM WASTE COUTURE BY LUZ CLAUDIO

5.

CHAPTER 3
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

Introduction
First there was fast food then came fast fashion which made clothes so cheap and appealing that ultimately make our wardrobes obese. Keeping the trends in mind we shop move leading to seriously overstuffed wardrobes. So excess is usually thrown away which end up in a landfill. Textile industry comprise four percent of the nations solid waste stream and the absolute amount is growing .Besides the clothing can be used again in one form or another. Discarding would be a waste, not just of the material itself but of the water and energy that went into the manufacturing.

Statement of Problem
It is surely the case that almost everyone with even passing interest in their wardrobe must accumulate enough stuff that at some point of time sooner or later they all will need to get rid of some of it. If ever a circumspect consumer has things to get rid of , imagine how much a lover of fast fashion might use to dispose of with development of fashion industry the fashion has become cheap and affordable but cheap fashion however has a cost. It takes 8,500 litres of water to raise 1kg of cotton lint enough to make one pair of blue jeans . The use of pesticides and fertilizers, in addition to water makes the global textile industry one of the most polluting and waste generating sectors inthe world. Tonnes of old clothes end up in a landfill. Manufacturers and fashion houses need to think harder about recycling.

Objective
To know in detail about eco-friendly fashion and sustainable design and zero waste fashion. To find out different ways to recycle, reduce and reuse fashion generated waste.

Research Methodology
Research design - Exploratory and Descriptive Data collection Secondary research - magazine, articles, blog, journals Primary research
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Sample unit - consumers, retailers, manufacturers Sample size Consumers -50 Retailers 5 Manufacturers 1 Sampling technique convenience

Mode of Data Collection


Questionnaire, Personal Interview

Data Analysis
Statistical tool in form charts and graphs

Scope of Research
The research focuses on the study of Ecofriendly-Fashion, Zero-Waste Fashion and Sustainable Design. It can be further reviewed for knowing about the above topics. Moreover this research can further be referred for finding new ways to recycle reduce and reuse of fashion waste.

Limitation
Area is confined to Bangalore. Time is limited.

CHAPTER 4
DATA ANALYSIS

The fashion apparel industry has signicantly evolved, particularly over the last 20years, when the boundaries of the industry started to expand. The changing dynamics of the fashion industry since then, such as the fadingof mass production, increase in number of fashion seasons, and modied structural characteristic in the supply chain have forced retailers to desire low cost andexibility in design, quality, delivery and speed to market.Looking at the basic structure of the fashion industry until the late 1980s,traditionally fashion apparel retailers used their capability of forecasting consumer demand and fashion trends (known as ready-to-wear) long before the actual time of consumption in order to compete in the market. However, recent years have seen fashion retailers compete with others by ensuring speed to market with their ability to provide rapidly the fashion trends revealed by fashion shows and runways. Moreover due to competition in market, new and fashionable styles have become really cheap and affordable now a days due to which the buying frequency of an average consumer has increased. The chart below shows how oftenly people shop.

Fig 1.Consumer Shopping Behaviour

once or twice a year once in a month often occassionally

Majority of consumers(33%) have a tendency to shop often i.e. twice or thrice a month. Imagine how many clothes they will end up buying at the end of the year which will ultimately make their wardrobe overstuffed at some point of time. Only 9% of the consumers buys once or twice in a month.
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Considering the above data on consumer buying behavior,it is clear that an average consumer buys more than 25 clothes per year. The no. of clothes purchased by a consumer per year is shown in the chart below.

Fig2.Number Of Clothes Purchased By A Consumer

1-5 clothes 5-10 clothes 10-20 clothes above 20

Majority of consumers purchase more than 20 clothes per year. The question here is that do we really need that much clothes? No, not really. So what we do to get rid of the excess clothes. The reality is that most of the unwanted clothes are thrown away which end up in a land fill creating a threat to environment.

The chase after Spring, Fall, Resort and Pre-Fall seasons is pointless when you have chains like H&M and Target coming up with collections every week or so. Many of them cross the lines between winter and summer, and their pieces could be mixed and matched.Many fast fashion brands offer new collections twice or thrice per season due to which the clothes in our wardrobe seems out dated and we end up changing our wardrobes with new and trendy stuffs. The chart below shows how quickly consumers change their wardrobes.
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Fig3.Wardrobe Culling Habit

every month every season once in a year whenever they feel like

Most of the people change their wardrobe whenever they feel like and 20% of the people change their wardrobe every season and very few people(10%) change their wardrobe once or twice a year. Let's put aside the question of how not to buy so much in the first place and address the predicament we're already in-an average of 68 pounds' worth per person annually for disposal.Besides, the clothing can be used again in one form or another. Discarding would be a waste, not just of the material itself, but of the water and energy that went into the manufacturing. Fig4.Clothes Disposal By A Consumer

1-5 clothes 5-10 clothes 10-20 clothes above 20

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According to the chart above, an 58% consumers discards above 20 clothes per year which is a serious issue for this huge population. This create millions of tonnes of waste per year which is very harmful to the environment.

Fig5.Trend Concious Consumers

yes no

Majority of consumers are trend concious consumers only 33% of people are not trend concious. Supporting eco-friendly fashion can be tough at times as there still isnt the same level of stylish, well-fitting options around compared to the cheaply made, mass produced ranges. With the onset of the global financial crisis, designers are developing a fashion conscience while consumers are seeking out economical alternatives to fast fashion, the frequent and rapid seasonal sartorial changes that take place according to the latest fashion trends. Sustainable fashion, then, seems like the perfect solution to the modern fashionista's catch22 - combining the hedonistic pursuit of one's fashion instincts with the reduction of one's ecological footprint. Most of the people are aware of eco- friendly fashion but they do not use it in their daily lives. There is a serious need to make people aware of the impact of fashion waste on environment and encourage them to use eco- friendly fashion.

Fig6.Are Consumers Aware Of Eco Friendly Fashion

yes no

When asked this question are you aware of eco friendly fashion? 74% of the people said yes but when same people were asked to tell how do you implement eco friendly fashion in your daily life majority of them said they dont implement or they dont know.

"More and more people are finding quality recycled clothing and leaving behind the oldfashioned fables of mothballs and knitted blankets." There has been an increase in stores which sell organic clothing," Ms Fitzpatrick said. "There are also more and more small designers who are using organic dye and fabrics to make clothing. The trend towards vintage clothes is also rising, as an increasing number of stores sell second-hand or vintage clothes."

Fig7.Do Consumers Find Trendy Apparels In Eco Friendly Clothing Store

yes no

Most of the people do find trendy clothes in ecofriendly clothing stores sometimes but fast fashion clothing is more cheap and affordable than that.

When our clothes become worn and unfashionable, we throw them away. From an environmental perspective it seems that the best thing to do is to recycle them, either by giving them to the appropriate organization or to sort and reuse the clothes for e.g. production of yarn, cotton waste, mattresses etc. However, there may also be problems with sending them to the Salvation Army or others for reuse since the clothes will eventually end up as waste somewhere in the world and it might be in a place with no incineration facilities where the waste will end up in landfills.Some major companies and chains have begun actively to collect clothes they sell, some in cooperation with charity foundations (Marks & Spencer and OxFam in Britain have an arrangement where if you hand in used clothing to the latter, the former gives you a premium towards a new purchase). The American sports-company Patagonia has another type of ambition; they want to collect all the clothes they sell themselves in order to actually recycle them and put them back in a closed-loop system.

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Fig8.Are Consumers Willing To Accept A Take Back System For Clothing

yes no

Majority of consumers are ready to accept take back system for clothing where a clothing item can be taken back when the consumer do not need it. But it is a recent concept which is still under development. Many consumers are willing to pay more for an eco friendly clothing if it goes with the trend and provide them the required look and quality. People today are more concerned about style and glamour rather about environment.

throw away 4

2 donate 24 2 reuse 2

Venn Diagram showing methods of disposal of clothes by consumers

recycle

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Fig8.Are Consumers Willing To Pay More For Bio Degradable Disposable Garments

yes no

Many consumers are willing to pay more for an eco- friendly clothing if it goes with the trend and provide them the required look and quality. People today are more concerned about style and glamour rather about environment.

advertising and media 2 2 2 window display 4 trendy prices and offers 2 clothes 3 6 2 2 brand loyalty 8 4

Venn Diagram showing criteria of consumer buying at fast fashion store.

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CHAPTER 5 CHAPTER 4
CONCLUSION

Through this data analysis we conclude that: the trend concious consumers out of which mostly are female of age group20-30 years and income group 5-10 lakh.The women of this age group are very experimental with fashion and like to keep themselves updated with latest trends. Most of the consumers like to shop often i.e twice or thrice a month as the fast fashion stores offer new and trendy stuffs very often An average consumer has 200-300 garments in their wardrobe An average consumer buys above 20 clothes per year. With every passing year which makes their wardrobe overstuffed because of which they need to get rid of the excess to accomodate new stuffs.

Most of the consumers change their wardrobe whenever they feel like Majority of people donate their old unwanted clothes but a big number of people throw it which end up in a land fill

An average consumer dispose above 20 clothes per year More than 60% of people are trend concious consumers

Most ot the people like to shop at fast fashion store because of their prices and offers Majority of consumers are aware of eco friendly fashion but most of them do not implement it

Majority of consumers agrees that there are trendy stuffs in an ecofriendly stores sometimes Minc, Quiksilver, Mother earth, Spykar, Jute cottage, Fab india etc. Are the eco friendly brands recognized by the consumers.

Many people are willing to accept a take back system for clothing

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CHAPTER 6
SUGGESTION

Resell If your old clothes are stylish and in top condition, sell them at your neighborhood vintage shop. You can also resell on ebay.

Swap
Bring your clothes in exchange shop "clothes swap" and pick up good stuff from someone else. Most swaps are free or charge just a nominal fee. Find a swap in your area or organize one of your own just for friends.

Donate
Give your disposable clothes for a good cause. Some organizations make it exceptionally easy. You can consider
-http://goonj.org/ -Oxfam International

Make freely available


Sign up with freecycle (for free of course) and list the clothes you're interested in unloading. If someone wants them, they'll let you know.

Recycle
If your clothes are really past their prime, see if there's a textile recycler in your area who will take them.

Other Tips
Fabrics made from recycled items are now becoming more commonplace with recycled polyester made from recycled drinks bottles now being made by companies such as Patagonia , Marks and Spencer, and Armani jeans. Recycling textile fabric- (Upcycling) for example using unwanted factory surpluses, offcuts or materials which would otherwise be thrown away. Recycling or customising clothing- taking second hand clothing and re-fashioning or repairing it so it is given a second life. Designer should take initiave in terms of Zero-waste Fashion. Students should be taught about Zero waste design and pattern making.

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Bibliography

http://emptyemptor.com/?p=1820 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964887/
http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/824819/eco-friendly-fashion http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals.htm?articleid=1926549 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964887/

http://emptyemptor.com/?p=1820 http://www.triplepundit.com/2012/12/sustainable-hms-new-global-clothes-collectinginitiative/ http://www.nicefashion.org/en/professional-guide/recycling/ http://www.nicefashion.org/en/professional-guide/recycling/breakthrough.html http://www.nrdc.org/thisgreenlife/0908.asp

ANNEXURE

QUESTIONNAIRE

NAME: GENDER: INCOME GROUP:

_____________________________________ Male Less than 1 lakh 5-10 Lakhs Female 1-5 Lakhs More than 10 Lakhs

AGE:

10-20

20-30

30-40

Above 40

1.HOW OFTENLY DO YOU SHOP ? Once Or Twice a Year Ocassionally Once In a Month Often

2. HOW MANY GARMENTS ARE THERE IN YOUR WARDROBE ? _________________________________________________________________

3. HOW MANY CLOTHES YOU BUY PER YEAR ? 1-5 Clothes 5-10 Clothes 10-20 Clothes Above 20

4. HOW QUICKLY DO YOU CHANGE YOUR WARDROBE/ GET BORED OF YOUR OLD CLOTHES? Every Month Once in a year Every season Whenever I feel like

5. WHAT DO YOU DO WITH YOUR OLD CLOTHES? Throw Away Recycle It ANY OTHER Donate Reuse It

6. HOW MANY CLOTHES DO YOU DISPOSE OFF PER YEAR ? 1-5 Clothes 5-10 Clothes 10-20 Clothes Above 20

7. WHATMAKES YOU SHOP AT FAST FASHION STORE ? Advertising & Media Prices & Offers Trendy clothes Brand Loyalty Window Display

8.ARE YOU AWARE OF ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION ? Yes No

9.IF YES THEN,HOW DO YOU IMPLEMENT ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION IN YOUR DAILY WEAR STYLE ? ________________________________________________________________

10.DO FIND TRENDY APPAREL IN ECO-FRIENDLY CLOTHING STORE? Yes No

11.NAME ANY SUCH STORE WHICH PROMOTES ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTS. _________________________________________________________________

12.IF A TAKE BACK SYSTEM (WHERE THE GARMENT IS RETURNED TO THE RETAILER OR MANUFACTURE AFTER USE FOR RECYCLING) IS OFFERED FOR YOUR GARMENT WILL YOU USE IT? Yes No

13.WOULD YOU CONSIDER BUYING BIODEGRADABLE DISPOSABLE GARMENT, IF YOU KNEW IT WOULD HAVE A LESSER ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT BUT YOU COULD ONLY WEAR IT A FEW TIMES? Yes No

CHAPTER 6

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