Professional Documents
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Step 7: Laser Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 8: Assemble the Laser Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 9: Ready to Solder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Step 10: Adjust the Laser Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 11: Put the Pieces Together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Step 12: Burn Some Stuff ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. High-powered, pinpoint, low-voltage LED laser goes here. It burns a smaller size, equal size, or larger size copy of your original by tracing it with a stylus (seen here on the right). If you want to make the burned/etched copy bigger than the original, swap the laser with the stylus. 2. This spot stays steady on your work surface. 3. A stylus here traces your original drawing or text. 4. Power supply, controls, wiring not shown here, for clarity. This is not a difficult instructable, requires no special tools, no advanced skills, etc. It does require you to use safety and common sense when working with the laser. It burns stuff. Fast. 5. Yardsticks, nuts and bolts form this pantograph. This is an old-time gizmo for copying drawings, can also change the size from the original. 6. Pantograph works by maintaining a constant ratio between two moving points (laser and tracing stylus). Very easy to use. Been around for a few hundred years.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. High-powered, pinpoint, low-voltage LED laser goes here. It burns a smaller size, equal size, or larger size copy of your original by tracing it with a stylus (seen here on the right). If you want to make the burned/etched copy bigger than the original, swap the laser with the stylus. 2. This spot stays steady on your work surface. 3. A stylus here traces your original drawing or text. 4. Power supply, controls, wiring not shown here, for clarity. This is not a difficult instructable, requires no special tools, no advanced skills, etc. It does require you to use safety and common sense when working with the laser. It burns stuff. Fast. 5. Yardsticks, nuts and bolts form this pantograph. This is an old-time gizmo for copying drawings, can also change the size from the original. 6. Pantograph works by maintaining a constant ratio between two moving points (laser and tracing stylus). Very easy to use. Been around for a few hundred years.
Image Notes 1. Move the 'A' bolt and the 'B' bolt to the middle of their sticks and you get a 2to-1 drawing ratio. Put the laser on the right and the tracing stylus on the center knee, and you'll double the size of the original. Switch the laser and the stylus (that is, stylus on the left end and the laser in the middle knee) and you'll get a result that's one-half the size of the original drawing. 2. Stylus goes here to enlarge. Laser goes here to reduce. 3. Stylus goes here to reduce the size of the original drawing Laser goes here to double the size of the original drawing. 4. This is the 'B' bolt stuck in the middle of the yardsticks. 5. This bolt always remains in these holes. 6. This bolt is always in this hole and always mounted solidly to your work surface.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Laser goes here if you want to expand your original. Stylus traces your original here if you want to reduce it. 2. Trace this original with this bolt (or replace it with a stylus, pencil, etc.) and it will be expanded dramatically on the bottom end of the right leg. 3. Notice that the distances (to the two yardstick ends) from here are the same. Call these holes 'A' 4. This bolt always stays in these holes. 5. This set of holes (call them 'B') will be bolted the same distance from the ends as the holes at 'A'. In this case, they're in the third holes from the end of each yardstick. Choose other sets of holes to alter the amount the original drawing is reduced or expanded. 6. This bolt never moves. Always at this end of the yardstick. Always mounted solidly to your work surface.
Image Notes 1. Switch the laser (or marker) here and trace with the end of the right leg to dramatically reduce your original. This spot doesn't move much at all. 2. Put your original drawing and trace it with a stylus here and it will be radically reduced at the yardstick joint to the left of here. 3. This bolt remains stuck solidly to the work surface. Doesn't move. Nope. The yardstick just spins around it a little bit. 4. This bolt never leaves these holes, unless you're feeling very experimental. 5. Same ol' same ol'. This bolt (in this configuration) is in the third hole from each end of the yardsticks. 6. Yep. This bolt is still in the same (third) hole from each end of the yardsticks.
Image Notes 1. Packed for travel. Three feet long, only a few inches wide.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
you don't like the results, just take the wire off and use a fresh piece. Or, you can buy a box full of U-shaped, pre-stripped jumper wires (Radio Shack 276-173) ordinarily used for breadboard work. In fact, if you're sheepish about soldering, you could even use a breadboard (276-175) from the Shack and the pre-stripped jumpers , instead of a PC board. It'll be a little clumsy, but it should work. An alligator clip. Radio Shack 270-373 , for more clips than you'll ever need for $3. Or the fat aluminum clip that comes with the solder pencil mentioned above. Or a small, bent-to-suit paper clip (co-worker's desk, $0) or similar to keep delicate electronic components from being fried alive from the heat of your newly-developed soldering skills. Also, clips of any kind to hold on to things for you while you use both hands to solder will come in handy. One hand holds the soldering pencil, the other hand feeds the solder into the joint. That doesn't leave you with much to hold the pieces you're soldering. You can wedge parts sticking out of the edge of a book to hold them. When you get tired of that, solder a clip to the end of a piece of stiff wire, and use a wood screw to screw the other end down to a block of wood. Repeat, and you've got two ''Instructables helping hands'' to hold your work. A brick or flat rock or concrete or scrap drywall or similar for a fireproof work surface (goes under the stuff you're cutting or engraving). Ceramic cookware might be OK, too. (Neighbor's backyard or mom's kitchen, $0.) Nothing shiny or reflective! Or, if you can put an air gap under your work, you might get away with a sheet of plywood sitting a few inches below your work. The laser's beam is essentially in an hourglass shape, with your workpiece situated at the tiny waist of that hourglass. The further you move away from that tiny waist, the weaker the beam gets. Never underestimate it. It is a silent, serious power tool. A dark test area so you can check for red light reflections off your work and product surfaces. ' No reflection' is good. (Become a Midnight Rambler, $0.) Though not required if you follow these directions, a Digital Multimeter can be handy for making sure you get up to, but not over 3.2 Volts to supply the laser, or for checking polarity, continuity and other things (like unexpected short circuits before they blow something up, instead of after). Get one for under $15 and use it forever, or this one , or just check on eBay under multimeter . Some also test temperature (that's not going to work for us -- these temps are WAY too high), or frequency (usually in the audio range - 20Hz to 20,000Hz) capacitance, transistor gain, have a continuity beeper, etc. You're only going to get one; might as well get the one you want. A 10 Amp range will come in handy some day. Or, just use the parts I've specified. This design should limit you to no more than 3.2 volts from the power supply, the maximum allowable voltage for many LED lasers. Any higher voltage on the LED laser lets all the smoke out from the inside and makes it stop working. ;-)
Image Notes 1. These little doodads stick over the ends of the test leads and have little grippers on the ends. That lets you clip them on to connections so you don't have to hold them. Get a pair at Radio Shack, stock 270-334 for $3.50. Very handy. 2. This Elenco M-1700 digital multimeter is a popular, inexpensive model. Shop around and you can own one for under $20. Search for 'multimeter' on froogle.com or eBay.com, then sort by price. Radio Shack 22-810 is $20, it takes them 2 days to get one to your local store. 3. You'll use the 20 Volt DC range for your measurements. Don't put the meter on any other range unless you've read the instructions and know what you're doing. If you do something wrong, you'll probably blow a fuse (inside, by the battery) and have to go to mouser.com or eBay.com to get a replacement. 4. 10 Amp range may come in handy elsewhere. Move the red lead to this hole to use 10A Range. Measure for only a few seconds on this range, then give meter a few minutes to cool down. I'm serious. 5. Black lead is always negative, common. 6. Red lead is always positive, marked V (omega sign) A, meaning Volts, Ohms, Amperes. 7. This model also measures Capacitance, the gain of transistors, and audio frequencies. You don't need any of that for this project, but maybe in the future . . . 8. Meters always have a power switch. Turn it off when you're done to save the battery. 9. If you've somehow managed to reverse the black and red leads while testing (let's say you put the - lead on the + wire), this number will have a - (minus sign) in front of it. That means you've got the polarity backwards.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. 240 ohm resistor, 1/8 watt maximum capacity. Color code is Red, Yellow, Brown, and the fourth band doesn't matter. Shown here with Red band at the bottom. 2. Voltage regulator. Legs (left to right) are VoltageAdjust, VoltageOutput, VoltageInput. Sits inside heat sink shown just above it. 3. Two potentiometers shown here for clarity, but you only need one. 4. Heat sink for the voltage regulator keeps it from getting too hot and burning itself up.
Image Notes 1. This screw-adjustable lens is a critical component. 2. The two pieces of metal tubing screw apart at this line after you peel off the label. The shorter piece will be used in our project after you remove the lowpower laser inside and a spring that presses against the lens to keep it from turning. 3. The longer tube at the rear, along with the lower-powered laser inside, will be saved for some other project. Though only one-thousandth of the power of our laser, it can still cause eye damage and a very hot light beam. Not a toy. 4. This is the photo from the seller's eBay auction, to make sure you get the correct model. 5. Put toothpick across lens and in this slot and the one across from it to adjust the lens by screwing it in or out of the tube. 6. Put toothpick across lens and in this slot and the one across from it to adjust the lens by screwing it in or out of the tube.
Image Notes 1. My (cheesy) photo of the low-power laser and lens I received from eBay vendor AixiZ. Provided here so you don't think you got the wrong one. Carefully peel off the "Danger" label and put it on your project to warn others that this is not a toy, and should be handled seriously.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Pry the arm up slightly on the heat sink and slide the regulator under it. I've hung a resistor on a leg just to show you where it is. Have the plain back of the regulator pressing against the flat back of the heat sink. When you're done, the two pieces will be locked together for maximum transfer of heat. The heat sink is now electrically connected to the center leg of the regulator, which is also the output voltage. Don't let the heat sink touch any other electrical connections or it will cause a short, and that could trash your laser, power supply and regulator.
Image Notes 1. You'll need 4 yardsticks (or similar) and nuts and bolts to tie them together so they can move smoothly and accurately. 2. LED laser will go here 3. You'll trace your original drawing with a stylus in this hole and the resulting output (at left) will be much smaller. If you want to enlarge the output, swap the laser with the stylus. 4. This configuration will give massive enlargement or reduction of the original artwork. 5. This bolt is always mounted solidly to your work surface.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Move the 'A' bolt and the 'B' bolt to the middle of their sticks and you get a 2-to-1 drawing ratio. Put the laser on the right and the tracing stylus on the center knee, and you'll double the size of the original. Switch the laser and the stylus (that is, stylus on the left end and the laser in the middle knee) and you'll get a result that's one-half the size of the original drawing. 2. Stylus goes here to enlarge. Laser goes here to reduce. 3. Stylus goes here to reduce the size of the original drawing Laser goes here to double the size of the original drawing. 4. This is the 'B' bolt stuck in the middle of the yardsticks. 5. This bolt always remains in these holes. 6. This bolt is always in this hole and always mounted solidly to your work surface.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
120 volt AC input rating is OK. If you can make up a connector to attach to the end of the power supply's cable (take it with you to Radio Shack) you don't need to destroy the plug on the end if you don't want to -- you could still use it for your laptop, etc. You'll need to get the wires (polarity) straight. If you don't have a multimeter, skip the next paragraph. Set your multimeter to the 20 Volt DC range (or the 200 VDC setting if your power supply is over 20 volts). The red + meter lead, when connected to the positive wire on your power supply (and the black - lead to the negative wire), will give a normal voltage reading on the meter. If the wires are reversed, there will be a - (minus sign) in front of the number on the meter. Do not change anything on the meter while it's connected (20VDC to 200VDC and back is OK). Do not use any other range on the meter until you've read the manual and understand how to use it. If you blow your meter up, don't despair; you probably just blew a fuse inside. Replace the fuse EXACTLY with one from eBay or Radio Shack -- this is a safety issue. If you don't have a meter, look at the power supply label, or the case next to the hole where the power supply (used to) plug into the old laptop or whatever. There's typically a 'circle and tip' drawing of some kind linked to plus and minus signs to signify whether the outside conductor (circle) or inside hole (tip) is which lead. If your plug has some weird 3-hole arrangement, study it carefully. If you cut the plug off the end of the wire, you'll notice there are two separate wires side-by-side, (like a lamp or extension cord has) or a single round wire (like a satellite or TV cable has, only thinner) between the brick and the end in your hand. If there are two wires, one of them is marked with a stripe or a ridge or lettering or something. That one is usually positive (+ ) and the unmarked wire is usually negative (- )Usually. If there are two wires and a braid inside, use either wire as long as the ratings show them to be adequate. More voltage in does not equal more voltage out of the regulator. If there's only one round wire, you'll find a second wire hidden inside the first. The outside braid wire is usually negative, and the inside wire is usually positive. Usually. Usually, the positive wire is the one that's marked in some way, and the positive lead on the plug is the one inside. This makes the negative wire unmarked and on the outside (perimeter) of the plug. Usually. You can always test the polarity of any low DC voltage with an inexpensive LED connected to a 200 to 500 ohm resistor (the slider you bought is 500 ohms). The LED's short leg is negative, next to the edge of the plastic that's flattened. If it's backward, nothing happens. Resistor can go on either leg. If it lights, you can determine the polarity of the wires. If you still can't figure it out, maybe you should spring a few bucks for the meter, or borrow one. Enough, already. Let's move on.
Image Notes 1. This one is perfect. 5 Volts DC at 1 Amp is what this supply provides as an output voltage and current. If it said 2 Amps, it would only be working half as hard. If it said 10 Volts, it would still be OK, but 32 volts output is the maximum for this project. 2. The metal jacket surrounding the plug is the negative terminal (think 'negative ground in a car'). The hole inside the end (the tip) is the positive terminal. Unfortunately, if you choose to cut the plug off, you can't tell which wire went where without a multimeter. See text above to determine positive and negative wires. 3. Input is 120 Volts AC at 0.125mA, 60 cycles per second is how often the polarity changes. 16VA means 16 Watts. All these ratings are how much power the brick pulls from the AC wall socket. 4. I used this supply. Meets minimum requirements. 5 Volts at 1 Amp.
Image Notes 1. These ratings say the same thing as the box below. This one says +5V, signifying DC (AC doesn't have + and - leads). The symbols below signifying DC are the horizontal bar over 3 dashes. This describes that one wire is higher in voltage than the ground (dashed line) wire, so it's DC. 2. AC Input: works on anything from 100 Volts AC to 240 Volts AC (~ sign) and draws four-tenths of one amp from the wall socket. The first DC output is 5 Volts DC at 1 Amp. The second available output is 12 Volts DC at 1 Amp. Either will work fine, but the 12 Volt side won't have to work as hard; multiply V times A, and the first is 5 Watts. The second is capable of supplying 12 Watts (12 Volts times 1 Amp). The power supply will run cooler with the 12 Volt line, but the voltage regulator will have to remove more volts to get down to 3.2, so that will run hotter. Use the 5 Volt line if you have this dilemma. 3. I used the wire in the cord and trashed the rest. 4. As viewed from the end while you look at it.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. This was my DVD burner laser. You can see three legs on the right side of this box. 2. This one was the CD burner. See three legs at the bottom of this box. 3. Right-angle mirror shoots the beam upward (into my table). 4. There's a little reflector jobbie in here to coordinate the beams.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Pry the arm up slightly on the heat sink and slide the regulator under it. I've hung a resistor on a leg just to show you where it is. Have the plain back of the regulator pressing against the flat back of the heat sink. When you're done, the two pieces will be locked together for maximum transfer of heat. The heat sink is now electrically connected to the center leg of the regulator, which is also the output voltage. Don't let the heat sink touch any other electrical connections or it will cause a short, and that could trash your laser, power supply and regulator.
Image Notes 1. This screw-adjustable lens is a critical component. 2. The two pieces of metal tubing screw apart at this line after you peel off the label. The shorter piece will be used in our project after you remove the lowpower laser inside and a spring that presses against the lens to keep it from turning. 3. The longer tube at the rear, along with the lower-powered laser inside, will be saved for some other project. Though only one-thousandth of the power of our laser, it can still cause eye damage and a very hot light beam. Not a toy. 4. This is the photo from the seller's eBay auction, to make sure you get the correct model. 5. Put toothpick across lens and in this slot and the one across from it to adjust the lens by screwing it in or out of the tube. 6. Put toothpick across lens and in this slot and the one across from it to adjust the lens by screwing it in or out of the tube.
Image Notes 1. There are four solder pads, two positive and two negative. You'll see a tiny black box at the top. Ideally, you should avoid overheating this box, so you may solder to the pads at the bottom, even though this drawing shows them at the top. 2. The 1,2,3, numbers are on the pins found on the slide potentiometer. 3. The wires in green carry full current, should be 24 or 22 gauge wire, NOT the 30 gauge used with the wire wrap tool. 4. Push to turn laser on, release to automatically turn laser off. 5. Add cheap LED's from Mouser or Radio Shack. There are lots of colors, sizes, etc. You only need one 1K resistor for the whole lot. You can use 30 gauge Wire Wrap wire to connect them. 6. Do not skimp. Get a fuse.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
If you get a wire too hot, anything that's attached to it (insulation, printed circuit board traces, voltage regulators, friend's fingers) will get crisped. You can apply too little heat (1 to 3 seconds), just enough heat (around 4 to 8 seconds), and too much heat (over 10 seconds). So you've got about 5 seconds to do your work (between the 4and 8-second marks). If you screw something up, just move away from that spot for a minute to let everything cool, then try again. No harm, no foul. Take it easy. If two things get stuck together that shouldn't be or you've got too much solder on something, hold the work up above the pencil tip (again, just for a few seconds) and gravity will draw the solder down out of the wires and back into the pencil, then clean off the tip on the wet paper towel. Tin the tip with fresh solder and clean it again. Watch for dripping solder that is trying to land on you. It's still hot. Practice on lots of spare wire and leftovers from that old radio you've been dying to take apart until you feel confident. Clips of any kind hold things down while you hold the pencil in one hand and the solder in the other. Wrap wire around the regulator leads to start out with a good physical connection. If you're having trouble, 'tin' anything you're working with first by putting a little solder on it before connecting it to something else (but this makes wire too stiff to bend - just use a tiny amount of solder to tin wire, or just tin the very end tip of the wire). Any time you find something that just won't accept solder or 'tin' easily, it's probably dirty or oily. Wipe, clean, file, sand, or steel wool to a fresh surface, then wipe with a damp paper towel. So, the drill is this: Put a clip on the lead right next to the regulator and put the black body of it physically lower than the upcoming solder joint. Ideally, find something to hold everything in place so you don't have to (see instructables). Wipe the hot pencil on a folded, dampened paper towel to clean it off. Touch a tiny bit of solder to the tip to tin it and wipe it back off again. It's OK to have just the tiniest amount of solder on the tip to help conduct heat to the wires (like butter in a frying pan) but add just a little more if you like. Tin the wire if you like. Wrap the resistor wire (or the wire connected to the tied-together ends of the potentiometer) around the regulator lead (needle-nose pliers were just made for this). Apply heat about 4-8 seconds to both the wire and the lead. Touch solder to the wire and to the leg of the regulator at the same time, but not to the pencil. Solder flows all around both wires. Remove solder and pencil. Let solder joint cool by itself for one minute. Move the clip to the next wire. Get aloe plant because you grabbed the clip too soon. Repeat with next connection. If you look closely at the back of your laser, you'll see one or two tiny rectangular components. One of them is a protection device that shorts out (eliminates) static electricity jolts that you might accidentally give off while handling the laser PC board. The laser needs around 3 or 4 volts of electricity, not the 10,000 to 20,000 volts that a static shock contains.
Image Notes 1. There are four solder pads, two positive and two negative. You'll see a tiny black box at the top. Ideally, you should avoid overheating this box, so you may solder to the pads at the bottom, even though this drawing shows them at the top. 2. The 1,2,3, numbers are on the pins found on the slide potentiometer. 3. The wires in green carry full current, should be 24 or 22 gauge wire, NOT the 30 gauge used with the wire wrap tool. 4. Push to turn laser on, release to automatically turn laser off. 5. Add cheap LED's from Mouser or Radio Shack. There are lots of colors, sizes, etc. You only need one 1K resistor for the whole lot. You can use 30 gauge Wire Wrap wire to connect them. 6. Do not skimp. Get a fuse.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Put the voltage regulator LM350TG in these holes. Topmost hole in this photo is the rightmost leg on the regulator (as viewed from the front label side). 2. One end of the 240 ohm resistor (red, yellow, brown) goes in this hole. 3. One lead of the 1.2K (1200 ohm) resistor (brown, black, red) solders to this hole. 4. The other end of the 1200 ohm (1.2K) resistor solders here. Stand the resistor on one end to get it to fit if you didn't get the 1/8th watt size (you'll also have to bend one side of the heat sink). 5. Before using any PC board, buff it with a steel wool pad or a sponge and kitchen cleanser to get off any oily residue, then rinse under running water and dry. If you can't get solder to stick to the copper traces, you probably skipped this step. Not fun. 6. This hole connects to terminal 1 on the slide potentiometer, which is also connected to the negative side of the power supply. 7. These three holes hole the negative leads on three indicator LED's.Use wire wrap wire around one of the legs to jumper for more LED's, if you wish. These are the 'Power ON' indicator LED's. Use as many LED's as you wish, all connected in parallel. 8. The fuse holder specified comes with a single piece of wire. Cut it near one end, strip the wires, and put one wire in this hole. Fuses are cheaper than parts. 9. The positive wire from the power supply, and also one end of the fuse holder go in these two holes. The holder specified comes with a single piece of wire. Cut it near one end, strip the wires, and put one wire here. Other end goes to center leg on the voltage regulator. 10. Expand this hole and let the leg from the heat sink fit here. The other leg on the heat sink gets bent up out of the way to avoid the 1.2K resistor at the bottom of this drawing. 11. The other end of the 240 ohm resistor (red, yellow, brown) goes in this hole. 12. Remember when working with PC boards that the view of everything from the bottom side is the opposite of the view from the top! Take your time, check your work. Carpenters are taught, "Measure twice, cut once." 13. This board is only one half of what's in the package. Snap off the other half and use it for another project. 14. A 22 or 24 gauge piece of hookup wire connects this hole to one side of the Thumb Trigger Switch which carries positive, regulated voltage to the laser. 15. One end of 220 ohm resistor (red, red, yellow) goes in this hole. Supplies ground lead to the 'Power ON' indicator LED's. 16. You can make jumpers out of the 30 gauge Wire Wrap wire. Wrap it around the 'legs' sticking through the PC board, then solder all three (wire, leg, copper pad) together. 17. This pad is where all the negative jumpers and wires meet up. Return wire from the laser, jumper to the 1.2K resistor, negative power supply lead, jumper to the top pin on the potentiometer. 18. 240 ohm resistor sits above here 19. 1.2K resistor sits above here, standing up on one of its ends if necessary. 20. Jumper wire goes between this hole and two pins on lower end of potentiometer. 30 gauge Wire Wrap wire is OK if you wish. 21. This trace carries the negative -- side of the 'Power On' LED series. Short legs of the LED's can connect to any hole on this trace. 22. Slide potentiometer - one leg fits inside this hole, connects to the other let right
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
next to it and the PC board trace in the lower left corner of this photo. 23. The other end of the 220 ohm resistor goes here. 24. A ground wire connects here, the other end goes to the large pad of negative wires at the top of this photo. 25. The long, positive legs on the indicator LED's go in these holes, bend over and all solder together. Add a jumper wire to the blank copper pad to the left, just above the voltage regulator. 26. I put more indicator LED's short, negative leads in these holes, then ran a jumper wire to one of the negative leads 3 pads lower. 27. This hole gets a jumper wire to the long, positive leg on an indicator LED, directly to the right, to the 9 pads they use. You can use fewer LED's than I did (6). 28. A wire here goes to the trigger switch, to provide current only when the switch is closed (and the burn laser is on). This lead provides positive power to the indicator LED's. 29. Jumper wire goes from here to meet up with all the negative wires at top right. 30. A 220 ohm resistor sits above this spot. It provides limited current for the indicator LED's a little higher than this spot.
Image Notes 1. This screw-adjustable lens is a critical component. 2. The two pieces of metal tubing screw apart at this line after you peel off the label. The shorter piece will be used in our project after you remove the low-power laser inside and a spring that presses against the lens to keep it from turning. 3. The longer tube at the rear, along with the lower-powered laser inside, will be saved for some other project. Though only one-thousandth of the power of our laser, it can still cause eye damage and a very hot light beam. Not a toy. 4. This is the photo from the seller's eBay auction, to make sure you get the correct model. 5. Put toothpick across lens and in this slot and the one across from it to adjust the lens by screwing it in or out of the tube. 6. Put toothpick across lens and in this slot and the one across from it to adjust the lens by screwing it in or out of the tube.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Cut and strip the wires to leave enough slack to place the ends wherever you want. This model is kind of clunky (too large) but the 3AG type fuse it holds is easy to find.
Image Notes 1. Pin 2 is the slider, so both ends are the same thing. Pins 1 and 3 are at each end of the resistor section, so they are interchangeable with each other.
Image Notes 1. Indicator LED's show when power is applied to laser. 2. Potentiometer slide varies voltage applied to laser. 3. My fuse holder's wire is too large. If you can come up with a better solution, more power to ya. 4. This corner of the heat sink gets pried up to avoid a resistor. 5. These wires go the the trigger switch. 6. Negative wire from power supply. 7. Positive wire from power supply.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Image Notes 1. Completed PC board power regulator 2. Jumper wire 3. Negative wires 4. Fuse holder wire connects to VoltageIn leg on regulator. 5. Wire to trigger switch. VoltageOut from regulator. 6. Three LED's have their short leg / flat edge connected here. A jumper wire goes to the short leg on three more above. 7. These traces are where the long, positive legs go on six indicator LED's, three above here, and three below. 8. This wire connects to the other side of the trigger switch to provide positive voltage to the indicator LED's, showing when the laser is powered. 9. Positive wire from power supply, one of the wires to the fuse. 10. These two pins on the potentiometer tie together and to a jumper that goes to the left. 11. This pin on the potentiometer goes to the negative leads through a jumper wire. 12. Hot melt glue. 13. The resistors are all inside this box. 14. Center pin on voltage regulator.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
This instructable is over. Make your own and share with us. Have fun. I am. P.S. Many thanks to Stephanie Maksylewich , who came up with the idea that got me thinking . . .
Image Notes 1. My DVD burner laser attached with hot-melt glue to the lens tube from Aixiz. The copper trace at top right was cut off afterward.
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 99 comments
Ssslouter says:
how do I know which leg is VIn, VOut or VAdj? I think I know but I'd rather not take chances.
Hardwyre says:
DVD burner lasers have a max rating of less than 300 milliwatts, how can you claim this will be as strong as industrial lasers? Is this going to be able to cut stainless steel? Aluminum? At least acrylic and plastic sheet?
Timextoxlive says:
Dec 19, 2007. 4:40 PM REPLY this wouldnt work. Ive made class 3b lasers (a little stronger output than the DVD burner diode). It will SLOWLY cut electrical tape, or light black matches. but as far a burning anything that isnt thin and black, no chance in hell. sorry man, good idea, but the diode just isnt powerful enough.
hubi says:
Aug 20, 2010. 6:01 AM REPLY This will work, but not for a long time. first mistake, laserdiodes dont last long if they are voltage driven, its better to use a constant current source. second, a dvd laserdiode from a 16x dvd writer will not last more than 150mA in that case, if properly cooled by a good heatsink or a TEC you can achieve 250mA. but 500mA or more will cause sudden death of the diode. also laserdiodes dont like short voltage spikes, they can cause a decrease in output up to the death of the diode and in your supply there is no protection against those spikes. if you really want to burn morethan only black tape, you need more power. I used a cheap 2W IR(808nm) Laserdiode with constant current source. to see the beam for focussing, one can use a digitalcam.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
yespotato says:
it does work i did it.
covey12 says:
ive used dvd lasers to burn everything from balloons to balsa wood
Ssslouter says:
would it be able to cut cardboard?
pufferfish9108 says:
how do u do the dvd burner thing? is there a link?
Jul 24, 2010. 9:46 AM REPLY first page where it says "Stephanie Maksylewich" 1) click on it 2) hover mouse over "high-tech stuff" 3) then "lasers" 4) then click on "DVD Laser" or similar
PainTrane says:
Jun 7, 2010. 10:07 PM REPLY Could I use a 6V battery to power this laser? He stated that the laser only uses 3.2V max. So would a 6V battery dropped to 3.2V work okay? Thanks.
WV_Kokamo_Joe says:
Apr 9, 2010. 7:17 PM REPLY I want to say to i m legend that YOUR Comment on this man's hard work is very rude and I think is not positive or constructive. Lets See your small converging lens on your laser cutter. anyone else want to see it? I know I do.....
rhino21 says:
Jan 25, 2010. 11:07 AM REPLY Is there any way to protect your eyes or rest of your body from the laser burning you or blinding you? Would a welding mask work?
mmcnickle says:
Welding mask is no good. You need to buy the correct laser googles i.e. the googles match the wavelength of the laser you are using.
ttrat says:
lol "googles"
rhino21 says:
OK. Cool. My dad just told me he has some laser goggles. Thanks!
iBurn says:
They won't work if they're not made for the same wavelength as the laser they're supposed to protect you from.
kNeXFreek says:
AWESOME!!!!!!
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
thingygoboom says:
An incredibly good idea and Instructable. However I don't trust myself working on anything like that.
madgyver says:
Jul 11, 2007. 2:39 PM REPLY What's been said about the laser and its output so far is quite right. The Laser will not be able to "cut" anything thicker then 0.25mm. Here you can see mine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXfRSjHgtxs But it shoud be nice or engraving stuff, if you move and hold it precise of course.
drcrash says:
Jul 14, 2007. 8:39 AM REPLY Would a DVD laser cut foam? (Like pink or blue extruded polystyrene insulation foam?) That could actually be very useful; if you can cut a shape in foam, you can easily mold and cast it, or put a hard surface on it and vacuum form over it. Foam is a bunch of thin-walled bubbles, so cutting through it is like cutting through a bunch of very thin layers of plastic separated by air. I don't know whether to expect that to work, though. I don't know if the frequencies put out by DVD lasers are absorbed well by the plastics that foams are made out of. (And maybe not---I guess they're designed to pass through the polycarbonate plastic that DVD's are made out of. Unless polystyrene has an absorption peak there, where polycarbonate apparently doesn't, the laser beam may just go through a bunch of layers without cutting any of them.) I notice that on your YouTube video, you're engraving a darkcolored plastic. Does it work with light-colored plastic, or does to much of the beam pass through or reflect off?
quasi44 says:
Nov 10, 2009. 8:21 AM REPLY With a foam, the integrity of the beam is compromised from the shape of the mildly refracting surface of the bubbles in it, causing near instant heat in an area where random gases are expanded with the beam, causing little mini explosions that subtract from the accuracy of the cut before the beam actually gets there. Nothing wrong with your idea except choice of medium for your mold. Jul 18, 2007. 7:47 AM REPLY The Laser will cut foam, but it will also take a lot of time. Doing it with a knive is faster und more precise. The laser melts and then burns ist away. Real laser engravers use lasers, so powerfull they actually vaporise material away, yielding a nice and clean cut. Indeed those laser only work on dark plastics and dark woods.
madgyver says:
Rybin says:
so what would it take for me to make a hand-held laser cutter that can penetrate say... 1/8" corrugated steel? just curious...
quasi44 says:
Nov 10, 2009. 8:05 AM REPLY The problem with a laser is that for it to be useful, you must be able to both contain, and control it. Lasers can be optically pumped using very small amounts of power to near limitless coherence...provided your lenses and mirrors are made precisely enough, and placed precisely enough....but then you MUST be able to provide an environment for it, free of stuff like dust, flammable gases like oxygen and hydrogen, and the mirrors; not precisely equal, one of them must allow the pumped beam pass...understand, people, lasers are neat, but be VERY serious when experimenting. The consequences are.
PikminRed says:
Nov 8, 2009. 5:47 PM REPLY "When your laser stuff arrives, read every word in the next section all the way to the end. Out loud. Twice. Don't cheat -- I'm watching you. This laser will immediately BURN AND CUT anything you put in front of it faster than a hot knife through soft butter. And, a laser is a light beam, so it will REFLECT OFF OF ANYTHING SHINY OR REFLECTIVE AND THEN BURN WHATEVER ELSE IS NOW IN ITS WAY. You're not going to cut shiny foil or anything else that reflects light unless you want a quick trip to the Emergency Room." Lol I'm Still following your warnings but. That. That was funny.
jordan98 says:
the pick your power supply page is doing the same
jordan98 says:
Nov 4, 2009. 3:53 PM REPLY could you please put a list of the materials and tools needed in the intro because whenever i try to view them it shows but the text that you put in is missing
rrp9 says:
Oct 16, 2009. 8:35 AM REPLY This is an excellent instructable. I just have one comment: If you place a stylus or laser in the lower middle joint as shown, the only motion possible at this point is to swing back and forth in an arc. Because one of the segments is pinned at the other end, swinging (rotating around the pin) is all it can do....
rrp9 says:
Oct 16, 2009. 8:48 AM REPLY Oops! After looking at this a little further, I must qualify my previous comment. This IS a good instructable in the level of detail, instructions, etc. However, it is not a functional device as designed. Laser cutting with bolts through yardsticks just will not work. Hence the lack of any photos of the assembled and functional device or any samples of its output....
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
Briguy9 says:
Jul 16, 2009. 7:20 PM REPLY ah, the pantograph, a century-old invention. changing something like this that's tried and true would be like trying to reinvent the wheel, right?
omnibot says:
Actually there are some new types of wheels out there like the Mecanum and Omni wheel. Also there is a square wheel:
"A different type of square-wheeled vehicle was invented in 2006 by Jason Winckler of Global Composites, Inc. in the United States. This has square wheels, linked together and offset by 22.5, rolling on a flat surface. The prototype appears ungainly, but the inventor proposes that the system may be useful in microscopic-sized machines (MEMS)."
Tommyhzy says:
Aug 8, 2009. 3:14 PM REPLY Step 9 and 10: HOLY EXCREMENT that is a LOT of typing. 5 stars because you put so much time and dedication trying to teach other DIYers how to save about $6000 and get a nice milkshake :) May 28, 2009. 11:15 AM REPLY Wow! This instructable was the missing part for my laser etcher project! I was too planing to build a DIY laser etcher machine, only mine would be computer controlled. However I knew nuts about lasers, and I really wasen't sure a DVD burner diode could do the job. I even had no clue about how to supply it. Well, now it's solved! I have an old PC power supply, with many output ratings, varying from 1A to 15A (!), and from 3.5V to 12V, however I wouldn't know how to use it. I also have an old laptop adapter, rated around 17V I think, I forgot the amperage. I do have a question... how it is possible to supply, say the 12V you mentioned, if the diode will burn out at more than 3,25V? Other than this, thank you, you are a true genious and my cheap DIY will be done with your help :) May 21, 2009. 11:44 AM REPLY I don't know enough about it to say whether or not it will burn anything, but I'm going to give it a try anyway; the diode burns DVD's why not paper, wood, etc? Increasing its intensity with a magnifying/focusing lens can only help. If it does work I'm thinking I'll build a CNC from one of the Instructables and slap this laser into it - set it and go! I'm also thinking that some protective laser safety goggles formed around the base of the laser would greatly increase the safety of this. Nice instructable, by the way!
matroska says:
MaddMann says:
cuchulain92 says:
Has anyone considered focusing the beams from multiple emitters to a single point?
Rayl12 says:
Just out of interest guys, have any of you seen the Reprap http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MakeYourOwnRepRap
bombmaker2 says:
I'm going to build this but hook up a joystick controlled table
drcrash says:
Jul 2, 2007. 2:11 AM REPLY As labeled in the picture, the pantograph can't work. The cutter can only move in an arc, not trace out arbitrary shapes. (A picture of the whole system---fully assembled, properly labeled, and working---would be a good thing.)
dchall8 says:
Jul 2, 2007. 11:22 AM REPLY I would like to see the entire assembly, too. But what are you saying about a pantograph not working to trace arbitrary shapes? The pantograph I had as a kid seemed to trace out anything I put under it.
drcrash says:
Jul 2, 2007. 11:34 AM REPLY Pantographs certainly do work; they're great. They work in 3D too, if you have one that doesn't flex out of a plane, and attach it to the table (or stand or whatever) with a universal joint. (That's where the great potential of pantographs lies. The Sears Crafstman Deluxe Router Pantograph will do 3D shallow reliefs, but that's just scratching the surface, so to speak. In the 19th century people used 3D pantographs and synchronized turntables to scale sculptures up and down, in the round. Cool.) The picture says that the cutter is attached at the opposite end of the same lever from the pivot that mounts to the table. That is wrong. If you do it that way, the cutter will always be the same distance from the pivot---it can only move in a circle, not toward or away from the pivot. For a pantograph to work, you have to mount the cutter on one of the other levers, in a straight line between the main pivot and the probe. (Or to scale things up, with the probe between the cutter and the main pivot, but also in a straight line.) It'd be good if the instructable had a (correct) explanation of how a pantograph works, or at least a link to one. (There are several on the web. One has a Java applet that lets you play with a virtual pantograph in your browser.)
dchall8 says:
I see. You were pointing out that the pictures were labeled incorrectly.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/
drcrash says:
Jul 2, 2007. 5:32 PM REPLY Right. But I have my doubts that a pantograph will work with a laser. My impression is that you need to move the beam very precisely and at a very precise rate. If the beam is bouncing around significantly, moving at variable rates and so on, it'll cut through in some places, and just wobble back and forth making shallow cuts in others. Generally, you need precision movement comparable to the size of your cutter. Laser beams are very small and sharp. (Or if they're not, they require boatloads of power to actually cut anything.) I find it hard to imagine getting the necessary precision from levers made out of yardsticks, or enough power to cut a wide swath from a DVD burner laser.
reginaron says:
Oct 5, 2007. 9:27 AM REPLY Hi there. Im looking for type of laser that will cut through frozen (mostly pasteries) food. Knives are too slow and messy. Know of any links.. thanx rr
ReCreate says:
i think since it is ice it will reflect and burn your eye out
jongscx says:
if it's frozen, try a band saw
drcrash says:
And the picture is STILL wrong.
LasVegas says:
I'd also like to see the completed project and examples.
http://www.instructables.com/id/60-Laser-Engraver--Cutter/