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Concept of Weaving and Passing of Yarns Through Khaddi

Concept of Weaving and Passing of Yarns T hrough Khaddi Mashood Ahmed School Of Textile and Design (ST D) University of Management & Technology, Lahore, Pakistan. Cell : 0346-3331968 Email: 111811008@umt.edu.pk T heory: i. Khaddi is a hand (home) spun and hand (home) woven cloth. It could be cotton, silk or wool. T hese f abrics are made entirely of biodegradable materials, without using f inite energy (machinery) and resources, so their impact on the environment is greatly reduced. Unlike other industrially manuf actured woven and knitted textiles, these f abrics are spun and woven by hand. Being hand craf ted greatly reduces energy consumption, and f urthermore has f ar reaching economic and social benef its to the artisans who produce the f abrics, living in remote villages. The main uses of Khaddi fabric are as under: Ladies suit, Shirts, Bags, Bed Sheets, Dhoties, Jackets, Kurta Pajamas, Ladies and Gents Kurta, Gown, and Pillow Cover. ii. Weaving is a method of f abric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to f orm a f abric or cloth is called weaving . T he longitudinal threads are called the warp or pickings and the lateral threads are the wept or f illings. T his is an image of plain weave cloth in which you can see how wept and warp yarns are been interlaced at an angle.
We aving p ro c e s s

Khad d i fab ric

iii. Shedding is the space produced by dividing the warp sheet into two parts is called shed . We divide the yarn sheet by f rames by up and down motion, they are set in such a way that one goes up and one f rames goes down. Due to this yarn sheet splits up and the space we see is shed.

As you can see in this image the shed when the yarns sheets are divided up and reed also. Simply you can say that the dividing of warp sheet is shedding. iv. Picking it is insertion of wept yarn in shed area is called picking . It is done by shuttle it passes f rom the shed area. Pirn is putted in shuttle and is set to the picker and it goes by applying f orce to handle which is connected with it. In this image you can see that pirn is in the shuttle and it passes f rom the shed area. Pick Length is the length of yarn used f or 1 length is pick length. v. Beat Up is the displacement of pick yarn f rom shed area to the f eel of cloth by either rolling or pushing up is beating up . T he instrument which is used in beating up is reed which beats up the yarn when it is picked up f rom the shuttle and then reed is used to beat up and make f abric. As you may see reed in this image that f rom where the yarns have been split up and f rom the shed area when picking is done this reed comes and beat up and this is the working of reed. T hen it goes into f abric roll. Working of Machine: In its working of yarn passage through Khaddi is as under: 1. We add yarn in machine and pass it f rom the two f rames which are set in a way that one is up and second is down. 2. T he yarn is passed f rom eyes wire and then f rom the reed and then to the f abric roll. 3. T here is a paddle which is under the f rame and at the top of the f rame you see ropes going up and due to f ulcrum one f rame go up and second down. 4. You paddle up and sown the f rames will move and split up the yarns which are on the sheet. T his is will create shed area. 5. When the shed area is created the shuttle which passes f rom it and insertion of wept yarns in the shed area is picking. T his is done when you apply specif ic f orce to the shuttle. 6. We see at the picker where shuttle is set there are ropes going up to the handle because of this handle you apply f orce and shuttle moves and goes to the other end.

We aving

She d d ing

Pic king

Be at Up

7. Af ter this process there is reed, af ter the yarn has been inserted you beat up the sheet and this process is called beating up and instrument used is reed. T his is done by mechanically. 8. At then you take up the f abric and it is rolled. T his is the working of the khaddi machine. Result: By this process of yarn passage f rom khaddi is achieved by insertion of wept yarns through shuttle in the shed area and beating up by reed.

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