A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume 2

Matthew Flinders
Project Gutenberg's A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume 2, by Matthew Flinders This eBoo is !or the use o! anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoe"er# $ou may co%y it, gi"e it away or re&use it under the terms o! the Project Gutenberg 'icense included with this eBoo or online at www#gutenberg#net Title( A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume 2 Author( Matthew Flinders )elease *ate( August +, 2,,- ./Boo 0121213 'anguage( /nglish 4haracter set encoding( A5466 777 5TA)T 8F T965 P)8:/4T G;T/<B/)G /B88= A V8$AG/ T8 T/))A A;5T)A'65 777

This eBoo was %roduced by 4ol 4hoat

P)8*;4T68< <8T/5( <otes re!erred to in the boo >7? are shown in s@uare brac ets >.3? at the end o! the %aragra%h in which the note is indicated# 6talics are indicated by underscore characters >A? at the start and !inish o! the italicised words# )e!erences to the charts ha"e been retained though, o! course, the charts are not %resent in the teBt only "ersion o! the eboo # The original %unctuation and s%elling and the use o! italics and ca%ital letters to highlight words and %hrases ha"e, !or the most %art, been retained# 6 thin they hel% maintain the C!eelC o! the boo , which was %ublished nearly 2,, years ago# Flinders notes in the %re!ace that C6 heard it declared that a man who %ublished a @uarto "olume without an indeB ought to be set in the %illory, and being unwilling to incur the !ull rigour o! this sentence, a running title has been a!!iBed to all the %agesD on one side is eB%ressed the country or coast, and on the o%%osite the %articular %art where the shi% is at anchor or which is the immediate subject o! eBaminationD this, it is ho%ed, will answer the main %ur%ose o! an indeB, without swelling the "olumes#C This treatment is, o! course, not %ossible, where there are no de!ined %ages# 9owe"er, Flinders' %age headings are included at a%%ro%riate %laces where they seem rele"ant#

These, together with the <otes which, in the boo , a%%ear in the margin, are re%resented as line headings with a blan line be!ore and a!ter them#

A V8$AG/ T8 T/))A A;5T)A'65 ;<*/)TA=/< F8) T9/ P;)P85/ 8F 48MP'/T6<G T9/ *6548V/)$ 8F T9AT VA5T 48;<T)$, A<* P)85/4;T/* 6< T9/ $/A)5 1E,1, 1E,2 A<* 1E,2, 6< 965 MA:/5T$'5 596P T9/ 6<V/5T6GAT8), A<* 5;B5/F;/<T'$ 6< T9/ A)M/* V/55/' P8)P865/ A<* 4;MB/)'A<* 54988</)# G6T9 A< A448;<T 8F T9/ 596PG)/4= 8F T9/ P8)P865/, A))6VA' 8F T9/ 4;MB/)'A<* AT MA;)6T6;5, A<* 6MP)658<M/<T 8F T9/ 48MMA<*/) *;)6<G 56H $/A)5 A<* A 9A'F 6< T9AT 65'A<*# B$ MATT9/G F'6<*/)5 48MMA<*/) 8F T9/ 6<V/5T6GAT8)# 6< 2 V8';M/5 G6T9 A< AT'A5# V8';M/ 2# '8<*8<( P)6<T/* B$ G# B;'M/) A<* 48# 4'/V/'A<* )8G, A<* P;B'659/* B$ G# A<* G# <648', B88=5/''/)5 T8 965 MA:/5T$, PA''&MA''# 1E1.Facsimile /dition, 1I++3 A V8$AG/ T8 T/))A A;5T)A'65 V8';M/ 66 TAB'/ 8F 48<T/<T5# >For both "olumes? 6< T9/ F6)5T V8';M/# 6<T)8*;4T68<# P)68) *6548V/)6/5 6< T/))A A;5T)A'65# 5/4T68< 6# <8)T9 48A5T# Preliminary )emar s( *isco"eries o! the *uy!henD o! TorresD 4arstensD PoolD PietersenD TasmanD and o! three *utch "essels# 8! 4oo D M'4luerD BlighD

/dwardsD Bligh and Portloc D and Bam%ton and Alt# 4onclusi"e )emar s# 5/4T68< 66# G/5T/)< 48A5T5# Preliminary 8bser"ations# *isco"eries o! 9artog( /del( o! the 5hi% 'eeuwin( the Vianen( o! Pelsert( Tasman( *am%ier( Vlaming( *am%ier# 4onclusi"e )emar s# 5/4T68< 666# 58;T9 48A5T# *isco"ery o! <uyts# /Bamination o! Vancou"er( o! *'/ntrecasteauB# 4onclusi"e )emar s# 5/4T68< 6V# /A5T 48A5T, G6T9 VA< *6/M/<'5 'A<*# PA)T 6# Preliminary 8bser"ations# *isco"eries o! TasmanD o! 4oo D Marion and FurneauB# 8bser"ations o! 4oo D BlighD and 4oB# *isco"ery o! *'/ntrecasteauB# 9ayes# PA)T 66# Preliminary 6n!ormation# Boat eB%editions o! Bass and Flinders# 4lar e# 5hortland# *isco"eries o! Bass to the southward o! Port :ac sonD o! FlindersD and o! Flinders and Bass# /Baminations to the northward by Flinders# 4onclusi"e )emar s# B88= 6#

T)A<5A4T68<5 F)8M T9/ B/G6<<6<G 8F T9/ V8$AG/ T8 T9/ */PA)T;)/ F)8M P8)T :A4=58<# 49APT/) 6# A%%ointment to the 6n"estigator# 8ut!it o! the shi%# 6nstruments, boo s, and charts su%%lied, with articles !or %resents and barter# 'iberal conduct o! the 9on# /ast&6ndia 4om%any# Passage round to 5%ithead# The )oar sand# 6nstructions !or the eBecution o! the "oyage# French %ass%ort, and orders in conse@uence# 8!!icers and com%any o! the 6n"estigator, and men o! science who embar ed# Account o! the time ee%ers# 49APT/) 66# *e%arture !rom 5%ithead# Variation o! the com%ass# The *eJertas# Arri"al at Madeira# )emar s on Funchal# Political state o! the island# 'atitude and longitude# *e%arture !rom Madeira# The island 5t# Antonio# Foul windsD and remar s u%on them# The shi% lea y# 5earch made !or 6sle 5able# Trinidad# 5aBemberg sought !or# Variation o! the com%ass# 5tate o! the shi%'s com%any, on arri"ing at the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# )e!itment at 5imon's Bay# 8bser"atory set ;%# The astronomer @uits the eB%edition# )ates 8! the time ee%ers# 5ome remar s on 5imon's Bay# 49APT/) 666# *e%arture !rom False Bay# )emar s on the %assage to Terra Australis# Gra"ity o! sea&water tried# 4a%e 'eeuwin, and the coast !rom thence to =ing George's 5ound# Arri"al in the 5ound# /Bamination o! the harbours# /Bcursion inland# 4ountry, soil, and %roductions# <ati"e inhabitants( 'anguage and anatomical measurement# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) 6V# *e%arture !rom =ing George's 5ound# 4oast !rom thence to the Archi%elago o! the )echerche#

*isco"ery o! 'uc y Bay and Thistle's 4o"e# The surrounding country, and islands o! the Archi%elago# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# Goose&6sland Bay# A salt la e# <autical obser"ations# 4oast !rom the Archi%elago to the end o! <uyts' 'and# Arri"al in a bay o! the un nown coast# )emar s on the %receding eBamination# 49APT/) V# Fowler's Bay# *e%arture !rom thence# Arri"al at the 6sles o! 5t# Francis# 4orres%ondence between the winds and the marine barometer# /Bamination o! the other %arts o! <uyts' Archi%elago, and o! the main coast# The 6sles o! 5t Peter# )eturn to 5t# Francis# General remar s on <uyts' Archi%elago# 6denti!ication o! the islands in the *utch chart# 49APT/) V6# Prosecution o! the disco"ery o! the un nown coast# AnBious Bay# Anchorage at Galdegra"e's and at Flinders' 6slands# The 6n"estigator's Grou%# 4o!!in's Bay# Ghidbey's 6sles# *i!!erences in the magnetic needle# 4a%e Giles# Anchorage at Thistle's 6sland# Thorny Passage# Fatal accident# Anchorage in Memory 4o"e# 4a%e 4atastro%he, and the surrounding country# Anchorage in Port 'incoln, and re!itment o! the shi%# )emar s on the country and inhabitants# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) V66# *e%arture !rom Port 'incoln# 5ir :ose%h Ban s' Grou%# /Bamination o! the coast, northward# The shi% !ound to be in a gul%h# Anchorage near the head o! the gul%h# Boat eB%edition# /Bcursion to Mount Brown# <autical obser"ations# *e%arture !rom the head, and eBamination o! the east side o! the gul%h# /Btensi"e shoal# Point Pearce# 9ardwic e Bay# Veri!ication o! the time ee%ers# General remar s on the gul%h# 4a%e 5%encer and the Althor%e 6sles#

<ew land disco"ered( Anchorage there# General remar s on =angaroo 6sland# <autical obser"ations# 49APT/) V666# *e%arture !rom =angaroo 6sland# /Bamination o! the main coast, !rom 4a%e 5%encer eastward# The 6n"estigator's 5trait# A new gul%h disco"ered# Anchorage at, and eBamination o! the head# )emar s on the surrounding land# )eturn down the gul%h# Troubridge 5hoal# $or e's Peninsula# )eturn to =angaroo 6sland# Boat eB%edition to Pelican 'agoon# Astronomical obser"ations# =angaroo 6sland @uitted# Bac &stairs Passage# The coast !rom 4a%e :er"is, eastward# Meeting, and communication with 'e Geogra%he# )emar s u%on the French disco"eries on the 5outh 4oast# 49APT/) 6H# /Bamination o! the coast resumed# /ncounter Bay# The ca%es Bernouilli and :a!!a# Baudin's )oc s# *i!!erences in the bearings on tac ing# 4a%e Bu!!on, the eastern limit o! the French disco"ery# The ca%es <orthumberland and Bridgewater o! ca%tain Grant# *anger !rom a south&west gale# =ing's 6sland, in Bass' 5trait( Anchorage there# 5ome account o! the island# <autical obser"ations# <ew $ear's 6sles# 4a%e 8tway, and the north&west entrance to Bass' 5trait# Anchorage in, and eBamination o! Port Philli%# The country and inhabitants# <autical obser"ations# 49APT/) H# *e%arture !rom Port Philli%# 4a%e 5chanc # Gilson's Promontory, and its isles# =ent's Grou%s, and FurneauB's 6sles# 9ills behind the 'ong Beach# Arri"al at Port :ac son# 9ealth o! the shi%'s com%any# )e!itment and su%%ly o! the shi%# Price o! %ro"isions# Volunteers entered# Arrangement !or the succeeding %art o! the "oyage# French shi%s# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) H6

8! the winds and currents on the south coast o! Terra Australis, and in Bass' 5trait# ;sual %rogress o! the gales# Pro%er seasons !or sailing eastward, and !or going westward( best %laces o! shelter in each case, with some instructions !or the 5trait# APP/<*6H# Account o! the obser"ations by which the A'ongitudesA o! %laces on the north coast o! Terra Australis ha"e been settled# 6< T9/ 5/48<* V8';M/# B88= 66# T)A<5A4T68<5 *;)6<G T9/ 46)4;M<AV6GAT68< 8F T/))A A;5T)A'65, F)8M T9/ T6M/ 8F '/AV6<G P8)T :A4=58< T8 T9/ )/T;)< T8 T9AT P8)T# 49APT/) 6# *e%arture !rom Port :ac son, with the 'ady <elson# /Bamination o! "arious %arts o! the /ast 4oast, !rom thence to 5andy 4a%e# Brea &sea 5%it# Anchorage in 9er"ey's Bay, where the 'ady <elson joins a!ter a se%aration# 5ome account o! the inhabitants# Variations o! the com%ass# )un to Bustard Bay# Port 4urtis disco"ered, and eBamined# 5ome account o! the surrounding country# Arri"al in =e%%el Bay, and eBamination o! its branches, one o! which leads into Port 4urtis# 5ome account o! the nati"es, and o! the country round =e%%el Bay# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) 66# The =e%%el 6sles, and coast to 4a%e Mani!old# A new %ort disco"ered and eBamined# 9ar"ey's 6sles# A new %assage into 5hoal&water Bay# View !rom Mount Gestall# A boat lost# The u%%er %arts o! 5hoal&water Bay eBamined# 5ome account o! the country and inhabitants# General remar s on the bay# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) 666# *e%arture !rom 5hoal&water Bay, and anchorage in Thirsty 5ound# Magnetical obser"ations# Boat eBcursion to the nearest <orthumberland 6slands# )emar s on Thirsty 5ound# 8bser"ations at Gest 9ill, Broad 5ound#

Anchorage near ;%%er 9ead# /B%edition to the head o! Broad 5ound( another round 'ong 6sland# )emar s on Broad 5ound, and the surrounding country# Ad"antages !or a colony# Astronomical obser"ations, and remar s on the high tides# 49APT/) 6V# The Percy 6sles( anchorage at <o# 2# Boat eBcursions# )emar s on the Percy 6slesD with nautical obser"ations# 4oral ree!s( courses amongst them during ele"en days search !or a %assage through, to sea# *escri%tion o! a ree!# Anchorage at an eastern 4umberland 6sle# The 'ady <elson sent bac to Port :ac son# 4ontinuation o! coral ree!sD and courses amongst them during three other days# 4a%e Gloucester# An o%ening disco"ered, and the ree!s @uitted# General remar s on the Great BarrierD with some instruction relati"e to the o%ening# 49APT/) V# Passage !rom the Barrier )ee!s to Torres' 5trait# )ee!s named /astern Fields# Pandora's /ntrance to the 5trait# Anchorage at Murray's 6slands# 4ommunication with the inhabitants# 9al!&way 6sland# <otions on the !ormation o! coral islands in general# Prince o! Gales's 6slands, with remar s on them# Gallis' 6sles# /ntrance into the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# )e"iew o! the %assage through Torres' 5trait# 49APT/) V6# /Bamination o! the coast on the east side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# 'anding at 4oen )i"er# 9ead o! the Gul%h# Anchorage at 5weers' 6sland# 6nter"iew with 6ndians at 9orse&shoe 6sland# 6n"estigator's )oad# The shi% !ound to be in a state o! decay# General remar s on the islands at the 9ead o! the Gul%h, and their inhabitants# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) V66# *e%arture !rom 5weers' 6sland# 5outh side o! 4# Van *iemen eBamined# Anchorage at Bounti!ul 6sland( turtle and shar s there# 'and o! 4# Van *iemen %ro"ed to be an island# /Bamination o! the main coast to 4a%e Vanderlin# That ca%e !ound to be one o! a grou% o! islands#

/Bamination o! the islandsD their soil, etc# Monument o! the nati"es# Traces o! !ormer "isitors to these %arts# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) V666# *e%arture !rom 5ir /dward Pellew's Grou%# 4oast !rom thence westward# 4a%e Maria !ound to be an island# 'immen's Bight# 4oast northward to 4a%e Barrow( landing on it# 4ircumna"igation o! Groote /ylandt# 5%ecimens o! nati"e art at 4hasm 6sland# Anchorage in <orth&west Bay, Groote /ylandtD with remar s and nautical obser"ations# Blue&mud Bay# 5 irmish with the nati"es# 4a%e 5hield# Mount Grindall# 4oast to 4aledon Bay# 8ccurrences in that bay, with remar s on the country and inhabitants# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# 49APT/) 6H# *e%arture !rom 4aledon Bay# 4a%e Arnhem# Mel"ille Bay# 4a%e Gilber!orce, and Bromby's 6sles# The /nglish 4om%any's 6slands( meeting there with "essels !rom Macassar# Arnhem Bay# The Gessel's 6slands# Further eBamination o! the <orth 4oast %ost%oned# Arri"al at 4oe%ang Bay, in Timor# )emar s and astronomical obser"ations# 49APT/) H# *e%arture !rom Timor# 5earch made !or the Trial )oc s# Anchorage in Goose&6sland Bay# 6nterment o! the boatswain, and sic ly state o! the shi%'s com%any# /sca%e !rom the bay, and %assage through Bass' 5trait# Arri"al at Port :ac son# 'osses in men# 5ur"ey and condemnation o! the shi%# Plans !or continuing the sur"eyD but %re%aration !inally made !or returning to /ngland# 5tate o! the colony at Port :ac son# 49APT/) H6# 8! the winds, currents, and na"igation along the east coast o! Terra Australis, both without and within the tro%icD also on the north coast# *irections !or sailing !rom Port :ac son, through Torres' 5trait, towards 6ndia or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# Ad"antages o! this %assage o"er that round <ew Guinea#

B88= 666# 844;))/<4/5 F)8M T9/ T6M/ 8F F;6TT6<G P8)T :A4=58< 6< 1E,2, T8 A))6V6<G 6< /<G'A<* 6< 1E1,# 49APT/) 6# *e%arture !rom Port :ac son in the Por%oise, accom%anied by the Bridgewater and 4ato# The 4ato's Ban # 5hi%wrec o! the Por%oise and 4ato in the night# The crews get on a sand ban D where they are le!t by the Bridgewater# Pro"isions sa"ed# )egulations on the ban # Measures ado%ted !or getting bac to Port :ac son# *escri%tion o! Grec &)ee! Ban # )emar s on the loss o! M# de 'a Perouse# 49APT/) 66# *e%arture !rom Grec &)ee! Ban in a boat# Boisterous weather# The 4oast o! <ew 5outh Gales reached, and !ollowed# <ati"es at Point 'oo &out# 'anding near 5mo y 4a%eD and again near Port 9unter# Arri"al at Port :ac son on the thirteenth day# )eturn to Grec )ee! with a shi% and two schooners# Arrangements at the Ban # Account o! the ree!, with nautical and other remar s# 49APT/) 666# Passage in the 4umberland to Torres' 5trait# /astern Fields and Pandora's /ntrance# <ew channels amongst the ree!s# Anchorage at 9al!&way 6sland, and under the $or 6sles# Prince o! Gales's 6slands !urther eBamined# Booby 6sle# Passage across the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# Anchorage at Gessel's 6slands# Passage to 4oe%ang Bay, in TimorD and to Mauritius, where the lea iness o! the 4umberland ma es it necessary to sto%# Anchorage at the Baye du 4a%, and de%arture !or Port 'ouis# 49APT/) 6V# Arri"al at Port 'ouis >or <orth&Gest? in Mauritius# 6nter"iew with the French go"ernor# 5eiJure o! the 4umberland, with the charts and journals o! the 6n"estigator's "oyageD and im%risonment o! the commander and %eo%le# 'etters to the go"ernor, with his answer# )estitution o! some boo s and charts# Friendly act o! the /nglish inter%reter# Pro%ositions made to the go"ernor# 9umane conduct o! ca%tain Bergeret# )e!lections on a "oyage o! disco"ery# )emo"al to the Maison *es%eauB or Garden Prison# 49APT/) V#

Prisoners in the Maison *es%eauB or Garden Prison# A%%lication to admiral 'inois# 5%y&glasses and swords ta en# 5ome %a%ers restored# 8%inions u%on the detention o! the 4umberland# 'etter o! ca%tain Baudin# An /nglish s@uadron arri"es o!! Mauritius( its conse@uences# Arri"al o! a French o!!icer with des%atches, and obser"ations thereon# Passages in the Moniteur, with remar s# Mr# A en liberated# Arri"al o! cartels !rom 6ndia# A%%lication made by the mar@uis Gellesley# *i!!erent treatment o! /nglish and French %risoners# PriJes brought to Mauritius in siBteen months# *e%arture o! all %risoners o! war# Permission to @uit the Garden Prison# Astronomical obser"ations# 49APT/) V6# Parole gi"en# :ourney into the interior o! Mauritius# The go"ernor's country seat# )esidence at the )e!uge, in that Part o! Gilliems Plains called Vacouas# 6ts situation and climate, with the mountains, ri"ers, cascades, and "iews near it# The Mare auB Vacouas and Grand Bassin# 5tate o! culti"ation and %roduce o! VacouasD its blac ebony, game, and wild !ruitsD and !reedom !rom noBious insects# 49APT/) V66# 8ccu%ations at Vacouas# 9os%itality o! the inhabitants# 'etters !rom /ngland# )e!usal to be sent to France re%eated# Account o! two hurricanes, o! a subterraneous stream and circular %it# 9abitation o! 'a Perouse# 'etters to the French marine minister, <ational 6nstitute, etc# 'etters !rom 5ir /dward Pellew# 4a"erns in the Plains o! 5t# Pierre# Visit to Port 'ouis# <arrati"e transmitted to /ngland# 'etter to ca%tain Bergeret on his de%arture !or France# 49APT/) V666# /!!ects o! re%eated disa%%ointment on the mind# Arri"al o! a cartel, and o! letters !rom 6ndia# 'etter o! the French marine minister# )estitution o! %a%ers# A%%lications !or liberty e"asi"ely answered# Attem%ted seiJure o! %ri"ate letters# Memorial to the minister# /ncroachments made at Paris on the 6n"estigator's disco"eries# /B%ected attac on Mauritius %roduces an abridgment o! 'iberty# 5trict bloc ade# Arri"al o! another cartel !rom 6ndia#

5tate o! the %ublic !inances in Mauritius# French cartel sails !or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# 49APT/) 6H# A %ros%ect o! liberty, which is o!!icially con!irmed# 8ccurrences during ele"en wee s residence in the town o! Port 'ouis and on board the 9arriet cartel# Parole and certi!icates# *e%arture !rom Port 'ouis, and embar ation in the 8tter# /ulogium on the inhabitants o! Mauritius# )e"iew o! the conduct o! general *e 4aen# Passage to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, and a!ter se"en wee s stay, !rom thence to /ngland# 4onclusion# APP/<*6H# <o# 6# Account o! the obser"ations by which the A'ongitudesA o! %laces on the east and north coasts o! Terra Australis ha"e been settled# <o# 66# 8n the errors o! the com%ass arising !rom attractions within the shi%, and others !rom the magnetism o! landD with %recautions !or ob"iating their e!!ects in marine sur"eying# <o# 666# General )emar s, geogra%hical and systematical, on the Botany o! Terra Australis# By )8B/)T B)8G<, F# )# 5# AAcad# )eg# 5cient# Berolin# 4orres%#A <AT;)A'65T T8 T9/ V8$AG/# A '65T 8F T9/ P'AT/5, G6T9 *6)/4T68<5 T8 T9/ B6<*/)# 6< V8';M/ 6# View !rom the south side o! =ing George's 5ound# /ntrance o! Port 'incoln, ta en !rom behind Memory 4o"e# View on the north side o! =angaroo 6sland# View o! Port :ac son, ta en !rom the 5outh 9ead# 6< V8';M/ 66# View o! Port Bowen, !rom behind the Gatering Gully# View o! Murray's 6slands, with the nati"es o!!ering to barter# View in 5ir /dward Pellew's Grou%&&Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# View o! Malay )oad, !rom Pobassoo's 6sland# View o! Grec &)ee! Ban , ta en at low water# 6< T9/ AT'A5# Plate#

6# General 4hart o! T/))A A;5T)A'65 and the neighbouring lands, !rom latitude K deg# to --1L2 deg# south, and longitude 1,2 deg# to 1+M deg# east# 66# Particular chart o! the 5outh 4oast, !rom 4a%e 'eeuwin to the Archi%elago o! the )echerche# 666# *itto !rom the Archi%elago o! the )echerche to %ast the head o! the great Australian Bight# 6V# *itto !rom the head o! the great Australian Bight to %ast /ncounter Bay# V# *itto !rom near /ncounter Bay to 4a%e 8tway at the west entrance o! Bass' 5trait# V6# *itto !rom 4a%e 8tway, %ast 4a%e 9owe, to Barmouth 4ree # V66# Particular chart o! Van *iemen's 'and# V666# Particular chart o! the /ast 4oast, !rom Barmouth 4ree to %ast 4a%e 9aw e# 6H# *itto !rom near 4a%e 9aw e to %ast Glass&house Bay# H# *itto !rom Glass&house Bay to Broad 5ound# H6# *itto !rom Broad 5ound to 4a%e Gra!ton# H66# *itto !rom 4a%e Gra!ton to the 6sle o! *irection# H666# Particular chart o! the /ast 4oast !rom the 6# o! *irection to 4a%e $or , and o! the <orth 4oast !rom thence to Pera 9eadD including Torres 5trait and %arts o! <ew Guinea# H6V# A %articular chart o! the <orth 4oast, !rom Torres' 5trait to Point *ale and the Gessel's 6slands, including the whole o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# HV# The north&west side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, on a large scale# HV6# Particular chart o! Timor and some neighbouring islands# HV66# Fourteen "iews o! headlands, etc# on the south coast o! Terra Australis# HV666# Thirteen "iews on the east and north coasts, and one o! 5amow 5trait# A<* Ten %lates o! selected %lants !rom di!!erent %arts o! Terra Australis# B88= 66 T)A<5A4T68<5 *;)6<G T9/ 46)4;M<AV6GAT68< 8F T/))A A;5T)A'65, F)8M T9/ T6M/ 8F '/AV6<G P8)T :A4=58< T8 T9/ )/T;)< T8 T9AT P8)T# 49APT/) 6#

*e%arture !rom Port :ac son, with the 'ady <elson# /Bamination o! "arious %arts o! the /ast 4oast, !rom thence to 5andy 4a%e# Brea &sea 5%it# Anchorage in 9er"ey's Bay, where the 'ady <elson joins a!ter a se%aration# 5ome account o! the inhabitants# Variations o! the com%ass# )un to Bustard Bay# Port 4urtis disco"ered, and eBamined# 5ome account o! the surrounding country# Arri"al in =e%%el Bay, and eBamination o! its branches, one o! which leads into Port 4urtis# 5ome account o! the nati"es, and o! the country round =e%%el Bay# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# ./A5T 48A5T# T8GA)*5 9/)V/$'5 BA$#3 T9;)5*A$ 22 :;'$ 1E,2 'ieutenant :ohn Murray, commander o! the brig 'ady <elson, ha"ing recei"ed orders to %ut himsel! under my command, 6 ga"e him a small code o! signals, and directed him, in case o! se%aration, to re%air to 9er"ey's BayD which he was to enter by a %assage said to ha"e been !ound by the south&sea whalers, between 5andy 4a%e and Brea &sea 5%it# 6n the morning o! :uly 22, we sailed out o! Port :ac son togetherD and the breeJe being !air and !resh, ran ra%idly to the northward, ee%ing at a little distance !rom the coast# >Atlas, Plate V666#? At ele"en o'cloc , the south head o! Bro en Bay bore G# by <# three leaguesD and Mr# Gestall then made a s etch o! the entrance, with that o! the 9aw esbury )i"er, which !alls into it >Atlas, Plate HV666, View 2?# The colonists ha"e called this %lace Bro en Bay, but it is not what was so named by ca%tain 4oo D !or he says it lies in latitude 22 deg# -2' >9aw esworth 666# 1,2?, whereas the southernmost %oint o! entrance is not !urther than 22 deg# 2-' south# There is, in ca%tain 4oo 's latitude, a "ery small o%ening, and the hills behind it answer to his descri%tion o! Csome bro en land that seemed to !orm a bay,C when seen at !our leagues, the distance he was o!!D but in reality, there is nothing more than a shallow lagoon in that %lace# 6n conse@uence o! this di!!erence in %osition, 4a%e Three&%oints has been sought three or !our leagues to the north o! Bro en BayD whereas it is the north head o! the entrance into the bay itsel! which was so named, and it corres%onds both in situation and a%%earance# At noon, the south&eastern blu!! o! 4a%e Three&%oints bore 5# +- deg# G#, se"en or eight miles, and was !ound to lie in 22 deg# 221L2' south and 1M1 deg# 221L2' east# 6n steering northward along the coast, at !rom siB to two miles distance, we %assed two roc y islets lying under the high shoreD and at sunset, 4oal 6sland, in the entrance o! Port 9unter, bore <# I deg# G#, !i"e or siB miles# This %ort was disco"ered in 1KIK by the late ca%tain :ohn 5hortland, and lies in 22 deg# M+' south, longitude 1M1 deg# -2' east# Ge %assed Port 5te%hens a little be!ore midnightD and the breeJe being !resh at G# by 5#, the 'ady <elson was le!t astern, and we lay to !or an hour neBt morning .F)6*A$ 22 :;'$ 1E,23, to wait her coming u%# The land was then scarcely "isible, but a north course brought us in with the Three Brothers >Atlas Plate 6H#?D and at !our in the a!ternoon, they bore !rom 5# M+ deg# to +M deg# G#, the nearest land being a low, but stee% %oint,

distant !our or !i"e miles in the !irst direction# The Three Brothers lie !rom one to !i"e miles behind the shore, at the eastern eBtremity o! a range o! high land, coming out o! the interior country# The northernmost hill is the broadest, most ele"ated, and nearest to the water sideD and being "isible !i!ty miles !rom a shi%'s dec , is an eBcellent landmar !or "essels %assing along the coast( its latitude is 21 deg# -2' south, and longitude 1M2 deg# -M' east# To the northward o! the Three Brothers there is !our leagues o! low# and mostly sandy shoreD and a!ter %assing it, we came u% with a %rojection, whose to% is com%osed o! small, irregular&sha%ed hummoc s, the northernmost o! them being a roc y lum% o! a sugar&loa! !ormD !urther on, the land !alls bac into a shallow bight, with roc s in it standing abo"e water# Ghen abreast o! the %rojection, which was called ATac ing PointA, the night was closing in, and we stood o!! shore, intending to ma e the same %art neBt morningD !or some o! this coast had been %assed in the dar by ca%tain 4oo , and might there!ore contain o%enings# 5AT;)*A$ 2- :;'$ 1E,2 At daybrea o! the 2-th, Tac ing Point was distant three miles, and the breeJe !resh at 5# G# by G# with !ine weather# 8ur little consort being out o! sight, we stood an hour to the southwardD and not seeing her in that direction, bore away along the coast until noon, when our situation was as under( 'atitude obser"ed 2, deg# ME1L-' 'ongitude by time& ee%ers 1M2 +1L2 <orthern Brother, dist# -E miles, bore 5# 22 G# 5mo y 4a%e, distant 2 or - miles, <# -1 deg# to 2, G# <orthern eBtreme o! the land, <# M G# The coast !rom Tac ing Point to 5mo y 4a%e is generally low and sandyD but its uni!ormity is bro en at inter"als by roc y %oints, which !irst a%%ear li e islands# Behind them the land is low, but @uic ly rises to hills o! a moderate heightD and these being well co"ered with wood, the country had a %leasant a%%earance# 5mo y 4a%e was !ound to answer the descri%tion gi"en o! it by ca%tain 4oo D its centre lies in 2, deg# MM' south, and 1M2 deg# -' east# The three hummoc s u%on it stand on so many %rojecting %artsD and at hal! a mile !rom the southernmost lie two roc s, and a third two miles !urther south, which were not be!ore noticed# 8n the north side o! 5mo y 4a%e, the coast !alls bac !our or !i"e miles to the westward, !orming a bight in the low land, where there may %robably be a shallow inletD it a!terwards resumed a northern direction, and consisted as be!ore o! sandy beaches and stony %oints# 8ur consort was not yet in sightD but we e%t on until !i"e in the e"ening, when the nearest land was two miles o!!, and the northern hummoc on 5mo y 4a%e bore 5# - deg# G# nine leagues# 6 had be!ore seen the coast !urther northward, as !ar as 2I deg# 2,'D and ha"ing there!ore no inducement to lose a night's run !or its eBamination, we steered onward, %assing without side o! the 5olitary 6sles# At three in the morning .5;<*A$ 2M :;'$ 1E,23, ho"e to until day&lightD and at eight o'cloc made the south head o! a bay disco"ered in the <or!ol >6ntrod# Vol 6, C6n latitude 2I deg# -2', we disco"ered a small o%ening li e a ri"er, with an islet lying in the entranceD and at sunset, entered a larger, to which 6 ga"e the name o! 598A' BA$, an a%%ellation which it but too well

merited#C?, and named A5hoal BayA# 8ne o! the mar s !or !inding this small %lace is a %ea ed hummoc on the low land, thirteen miles distantD and it was now set o"er the south head o! the bay at 5# 2, deg# G# 6n steering northward close along the coast, we %assed two small ree!s, and the water shoaled to 1, !athomsD they lie two miles o!! the land, and there did not seem to be any sa!e %assage within them# 8ur latitude at noon was 2I deg# -', and longitude by time ee%ers 1M2 deg# 21'D the shore was three miles o!! but until we came u% with 4a%e Byron at !i"e in the e"ening, there was no %rojection worthy o! being %articularly noticed# From 5hoal Bay to 4a%e Byron is !i!ty miles, where the coast, with the eBce%tion o! two or three roc y heads, is mostly low and sandyD and the soundings, at !rom two to !our miles o!!, "ary between 1, and 22 !athoms, on a sandy bottom# A !ew miles bac the land rises to hills o! moderate ele"ation, which were %oorly co"ered with wood in the southern %art, but towards the ca%e had a more !ertile a%%earance# 4a%e Byron is a small stee% head, %rojecting about two miles !rom the low land, and in coming along the coast ma es li e an islandD its latitude is 2E deg# 2E', and longitude 1M2 deg# 2K', or K' east o! the situation assigned to it by ca%tain 4oo # There are three roc s on its north sideD and in the direction o! <# MK deg# G#, eight or nine leagues !rom it, is the %ea ed to% o! a mass o! mountains, named by its disco"erer AMount GarningAD whose ele"ation is about 22,, !eet, and eBceeds that o! Mount *romedary, or any other land 6 ha"e seen u%on this /ast 4oast# To Mr# Gestall's s etch o! this remar able %ea >Atlas, Plate HV666# View 2#? it may be added, that the surrounding hills were well co"ered with wood, whose !oliage announced a soil more !ertile than usual so near the sea side# The sun was near setting at the time 4a%e Byron bore west, three or !our milesD and the coast !rom thence to Point 'oo &out ha"ing been seen by ca%tain 4oo , we steered o!! in order to a"oid !alling in with the ree!s o! Point *anger in the night# At ele"en, hauled more in !or the landD and at eight neBt day .M8<*A$ 2+ :;'$ 1E,23, Mount Garning was set at 5# 2M deg# G#, twenty leagues# 8n coming in with Point 'oo &out, 6 too obser"ations !or the latitude and longitude, which !iBed it in 2K deg# 2K' south, and 1M2 deg# 21' east# The latitude is the same as it had been made in the <or!ol , >6ntrod# Vol# 6?, but is 1I' south, and 2' west o! the situation gi"en in ca%tain 4oo 's chart# The bearings o! the land at noon were, Point 'oo &out, distant 2 leagues, 5# I deg# G# Moreton entrance to Glass&house Bay, 5# MM G# 4a%e Moreton, distant siB leagues, <# 1E G# A strange "essel seen to the southward, had induced me to carry little sail all the morningD it was now %ercei"ed not to be the 'ady <elson, but %robably one o! the two whalers nown to be !ishing o!! the coastD we there!ore made sail !or 4a%e Moreton, and came u% with it at !our o'cloc # 6 was much sur%rised to see a small, but dangerous ree! lying between !our and !i"e miles o!! this ca%e to the north&east, which had not been noticed in the <or!ol D in entering Glass&house Bay 6 had then hauled close round 4a%e Moreton at dus in the e"ening, and in coming out had %assed too !ar westward to obser"e it# The longitude o! 4a%e Moreton was now !iBed by the time ee%ers at 1M2 deg# 2+1L2' east, di!!ering only 11L2' !rom the lunar obser"ations be!ore ta en in the <or!ol D when its latitude had been settled at 2K deg# ,1L2' south# >Atlas, Plate H#?

T;/5*A$ 2K :;'$ 1E,2 A!ter %assing the dangerous ree!, we steered northward until three in the morningD and then ho"e to until daylight, !or the %ur%ose o! eBamining the land about *ouble&island Point and Gide Bay, which did not a%%ear to ha"e been well distinguished by ca%tain 4oo # At se"en o'cloc the %oint bore <# 2 deg# G#, siB leagues, and the shore abreast, a beach with sandy hills behind it, was distant siB miles# Between the 5# +2# G# and a low blu!! head bearing 5# 22 deg# G#, was a bight in the coast where the sand hills seemed to terminateD !or the bac land !urther south was high and roc y with small %ea s on the to%, similar to the ridge behind the Glass 9ouses, o! which it is %robably a continuation# At hal! %ast nine we hauled close round *ouble&island Point, within a roc lying between one and two miles to the <# <# /#, ha"ing K !athoms !or the least water# The %oint answered ca%tain 4oo 's descri%tion( it is a stee% head, at the eBtremity o! a nec o! land which runs out two miles !rom the main, and lies in 2M deg# M+' south, and 1M2 deg# 12' east# 8n the north side o! the %oint the coast !alls bac to the westward, and %resents a stee% shore o! white sandD but in cur"ing round Gide Bay the sandy land becomes "ery low, and a small o%ening was seen in it, leading to a %iece o! water li e a lagoonD but the shoals which lie o!! the entrance render it di!!icult o! access, i! indeed there be a %assage !or any thing larger than boats# 9ad the 'ady <elson been with me, 6 should ha"e attem%ted to get her into the lagoon, ha"ing %re"iously entertained a conjecture that the head o! 9er"ey's Bay might communicate with Gide BayD but the a%%rehension that lieutenant Murray would arri"e at the !irst rendeJ"ous, and %roceed to the neBt be!ore we could join him, deterred me !rom attem%ting it with the 6n"estigator or with boats# ;%on the north side o! the o%ening there was a number o! 6ndians, !i!ty as re%orted, loo ing at the shi%, and near *ouble&island Point ten others had been seen, im%lying a more numerous %o%ulation than is usual to the southward# 6 in!erred !rom hence, that the %iece o! water at the head o! Gide Bay was eBtensi"e and shallowD !or in such %laces the nati"es draw much subsistence !rom the !ish which there abound, and are more easily caught than in dee% water# 5o !ar as could be seen !rom the mast head at three or !our miles o!!, the water eBtended about !i"e miles westward, to the !eet o! some hills co"ered with small wood# 6ts eBtent north and south could not be distinguished, and it seemed %robable that one, and %erha%s two streams !all into itD !or there were many large medusas !loating at the entrance, such as are usually !ound near the mouths o! ri"ers in this country# Ge %assed the shoals o! Gide Bay in !rom 12 to M !athoms waterD and steered northward at the distance o! siB, and !rom that to two miles o!! the shore, until dar # 4a%tain 4oo describes this %art o! the coast as moderately high and "ery barrenD there being great %atches o! mo"eable sand many acres in eBtent, through which a%%eared in some %laces the green to%s o! trees hal! buried, and in others the na ed trun s o! such as the sand had destroyed# Ge sailed some miles nearer to it than the /ndea"our had done, and saw eBtensi"e, bare %atches in many %artsD but nothing to indicate the sands being mo"eableD and in general, there were shrubs, bushes, and some trees scattered o"er the hills in !ront o! the sea# <othing howe"er can well be imagined more barren than this %eninsulaD but the smo es which arose !rom many %arts, corroborated the remar made u%on the %o%ulation about Gide BayD and bes%o e that !resh water was not scarce in this sandy country#

8ur course at night was directed by the !ires on the shore, and the wind being moderate !rom the south&westward, it was continued until ten o'cloc D a!ter which we stood o!! and on till daylight .G/*</5*A$ 2E :;'$ 1E,23, and then had 6ndian 9ead bearing 5# M- deg# G# one mile and a hal!# This head was so named by ca%tain 4oo , !rom the great number o! 6ndians assembled there in 1KK,# Mr# Gestall's s etch o! it >Atlas, Plate HV666, View -#?, ta en as we steered close along the shore !or 5andy 4a%e, will show that the same sterility %re"ailed here as in the southern %art o! the %eninsulaD and it continued to the northern eBtremity# At ele"en o'cloc we reached 5andy 4a%e, and the master was sent ahead to sound in a small %assage through Brea &sea 5%it# The shi% !ollowed under easy sail, until we got into 2 !athomsD and the master not ma ing the signal !or any dee%er water, 6 tac ed and called the boat on board# The channel a%%eared to go @uite through the 5%it, into 9er"ey's BayD but as there were, in many %arts, not more than 2 !athoms, it can be %assed only by small "essels# At noon, 5andy 4a%e, distant a miles, bore 5# +- deg# to E, deg# G# 6ndian 9ead, distant K leagues, 5# 12 /# 8ur obser"ations !iBed 5andy 4a%e in 2- deg# -2' south, and 1M2 deg#' 1+' east, being 2' north, and K' east o! the %osition assigned to it by ca%tain 4oo # ./A5T 48A5T# 9/)V/$'5 BA$#3 At one o'cloc we steered northward, close to the edge o! Brea &sea 5%it, searching !or a %assage through it into 9er"ey's Bay# There were many small winding channels amongst the brea ers, and a larger being %ercei"ed at three, the boat was sent to ma e an eBaminationD in the mean time, the wind ha"ing shi!ted to north&west and become "ery light, we dro%%ed the stream anchor two miles !rom the 5%it, in 11 !athoms, !ine grey sand# The channel where the boat was sounding, and out o! which a tide came o! more than one mile an hour, bore G# by <#1L2 <#, and 5andy 4a%e 5# 2- deg# to -1 deg# G#, about three leagues# 5oon a!ter sunset the master returned, and re%orted the channel to be nearly a mile and a hal! wide, and that it went @uite through to the bayD but it did not generally contain more than !ourteen !eet water, and was there!ore im%assable !or the 6n"estigator# The bottom o! this, and o! the !ormer small channel, as also the shoaler ban s o! the 5%it, were o! coral, miBed with coral sand# T9;)5*A$ 2I :;'$ 1E,2 At three in the morning, on a breeJe s%ringing u% at 5# G# by 5#, we stretched south&eastwardD and a "essel ha"ing been obser"ed o"er night o!! 6ndian 9ead, this tac was %rolonged till se"en o'cloc D when seeing nothing o! her, we stood bac !or the 5%it, and coasted close along its east side as be!ore, in !rom 1, to M !athoms water# At !orty minutes a!ter noon we %assed o"er the tail o! the 5%it, in latitude 2- deg# 2-'D the water then dee%ening suddenly !rom + and K, to 22 !athoms, and the white %atches on 5andy 4a%e bearing 5# E deg# /# 6n standing <# G# by G# we crossed a ban in 11 !athoms, and on tac ing, %assed another %art o! it with only MD the water u%on it was not discoloured, nor had it been obser"ed either

by ca%tain 4oo , or by me in the <or!ol ( it lies about + miles G# <# G# !rom the end o! Brea &sea 5%it# The !irst rendeJ"ous a%%ointed !or lieutenant Murray, was the anchorage near 5andy 4a%eD but the wind being un!a"ourable, we did not reach it till !our on the !ollowing a!ternoon .F)6*A$ 2, :;'$ 1E,23D at which time the anchor was dro%%ed in K !athoms, sandy bottom, with the outer eBtremity o! the ca%e bearing 5# KI deg# /#, and the nearest %art distant two miles# A "essel was seen on the outside o! the 5%it, which %ro"ed to be the 'ady <elsonD and the master being sent with a boat to assist her through the %assage, she anchored near us at sunset, and lieutenant Murray came on board# The account he ga"e o! his se%aration, and the delay in arri"ing at the rendeJ"ous, con"inced me both o! the 'ady <elson being an indi!!erent "essel, and o! the truth o! an obser"ation be!ore made u%on the currents( that they run much stronger to the southward at the distance o! siB, and !rom that to twenty leagues o!! the coast, than they do close in with the shore# Mr# Murray not being much accustomed to ma e !ree with the land, had e%t it barely within sight, and had been much retarded# 6n order to gi"e the botanists an o%%ortunity o! eBamining the %roductions o! 5andy 4a%e, 6 determined to remain here a dayD and some nati"es being seen u%on the beach, a boat was sent to commence an ac@uaintance with themD they howe"er retired, and su!!ered Mr# Brown to botanise without disturbance# <eBt morning .5AT;)*A$ 21 :uly 1E,23 the brig anchored within a @uarter o! a mile o! the shore, to co"er our landing %artiesD and the armed boats being moored at gra%nels, out o! the reach o! the nati"es, we se%arated into three di"isions# The naturalist's %arty, consisting o! siB %ersons, wal ed along the shore towards the u%%er %art o! the bayD Mr# Murray and his %eo%le went to cut wood !or !uelD and the %arty with me, also o! siB %ersons, including my nati"e !riend ABongareeA, went towards the eBtremity o! 5andy 4a%e# 5e"eral 6ndians with branches o! trees in their hands, were there collectedD and whilst they retreated themsel"es, were wa"ing to us to go bac # Bongaree stri%%ed o!! his clothes and laid aside his s%ear, as inducements !or them to wait !or himD but !inding they did not understand his language, the %oor !ellow, in the sim%licity o! his heart, addressed them in bro en /nglish, ho%ing to succeed better# At length they su!!ered him to come u%, and by degrees our whole %arty joinedD and a!ter recei"ing some %resents, twenty o! them returned with us to the boats, and were !easted u%on the blubber o! two %or%oises, which had been brought on shore %ur%osely !or them# At two o'cloc the naturalists returned, bringing some o! the scoo% nets used by the nati"es in catching !ishD and we then @uitted our new !riends, a!ter %resenting them with hatchets and other testimonials o! our satis!action# These %eo%le go entirely na ed, and otherwise much resemble the inhabitants o! Port :ac son in %ersonal a%%earanceD but they were more !leshy, %erha%s !rom being able to obtain a better su%%ly o! !ood with the scoo% nets, which are not nown on the southern %arts o! the coast# 6 noticed in most o! them a hard tumour on the outer nuc le o! the wrist, which, i! we understood them aright, was caused by the stretcher o! the scoo% coming in contact with this %art in the act o! throwing the net# 8ur nati"e did not understand a word o! their language, nor did they seem to now the use o! his AwomerahA or throwing stic D !or one o! them being in"ited to imitate Bongaree, who lanced a s%ear with it "ery deBterously and to a great distance, he, in the most aw ward manner, threw both womerah and s%ear together# <othing li e a canoe was seen amongst these %eo%leD but they must ha"e some means o! %assing o"er the water to short

distances, since 6 !ound, in 1KII, that 4urlew 6slet, near the head o! this bay, had been "isited# A s%ecies o! A%andanusA be!ore !ound at Glass&house and 5hoal Bays, grows in abundance u%on 5andy 4a%eD and notwithstanding the eBtreme sterility o! the soil, the sand hills were mostly co"ered with bushes, and the "allies contained trees o! the AcasuarinaA and Aeucaly%tusA# There was !resh water in a %ool near the shore, and as a shi% may lie within hal! a mile, both wood and water might be %rocured here without great di!!icultyD but 6 doubt i! the water would not altogether !ail in the dry season# A tolerably regular tide set %ast the shi%, <# <# /# and 5# 5# G#, nearly one mile an hourD and it a%%eared by the shore to be high water Aabout eight hours a!terA the moon's %assage, and the common rise to be between siB and se"en !eet# <o mention has been made o! the "ariation o! the com%ass since lea"ing Port :ac son, A gradual diminution seems to ta e %lace !rom Two!old Bay, near the southern eBtremity o! this coast, to 5andy 4a%eD as will a%%ear !rom the !ollowing obser"ations# 'at# 2K deg# -' AJim#, one com%ass, on shore, I deg# 2I' /# 22 M2 do , do , do , E M1 21 2+ do , do , head north, I E 2, 22 do , three com%#, do , E -2 2+ 1, do , one com%#, head <# by G# E deg# -,', corr# E K 2M , Am%l#, do , head <# G# by <# I 2I , corr# E I 2- -2 do , do , head 5# /# 1L2 5# + 22 , corr E 1The coast lies nearly north, and eBce%t 5andy 4a%e, a%%ears to be mostly o! !ree stone, which 6 ha"e not !ound to %roduce any e!!ect u%on the needleD and what is remar able, on com%aring my obser"ations with those o! ca%tain 4oo , it a%%eared that little or no change had ta en %lace in the "ariation, during thirty&two yearsD !or where"er our obser"ations were ta en with the shi%s heads in the same direction, there the same "ariation was obtained to a !ew minutes# Githin Brea &sea 5%it, an am%litude ga"e the "ariation when corrected, K deg# 2M' eastD and one ta en at the anchorage near 5andy 4a%e, but uncorrected, the direction o! the shi%'s head being un nown, K deg# MK' east# There is little doubt that on bringing the land to the eastward o! the shi%, the "ariation was diminished at least hal! a degree( the stone o! 5andy 4a%e is granitic# 5;<*A$ 1 A;G;5T 1E,2 6n the morning o! August 1, the wind was !rom the southward, and we steered across 9er"ey's Bay, towards a slo%ing hummoc on the west side, where my eBamination in the <or!ol had terminated# The soundings increased !rom K, gradually to 1E !athoms, and a!terwards decreased till hal! %ast !our in the a!ternoonD when the slo%ing hummoc bore 5# 2 deg# /# eight miles, and we had no more than 21L2 !athoms near some dry ban s and brea ers, which eBtend out three miles !rom two shallow inlets in the coast# At dus the anchor was let go in +1L2 !athoms, mud and sandD the shallow inlets to the south being distant + miles, and the slo%ing hummoc bearing 5# 1K deg# /# 6n ca%tain 4oo 's chart, the width o! 9er"ey's

Bay is !i!ty&nine miles, which had a%%eared to me too great when here in the <or!ol D and 6 now made the distance, !rom the north&west eBtremity o! 5andy 4a%e to a low %oint running out !rom the hummoc , to be !orty three miles by the Atime ee%ersA# 5uch errors as this are almost una"oidable without the aid o! these instruments, when sailing either along a coast which lies nearly on the same %arallel, or where no land is in sight to correct the longitude by bearings# From Port :ac son to 5andy 4a%e, ca%tain 4oo 's %ositions had been !ound to di!!er !rom mine, not more than !rom 1,' east to K' westD which must be considered a great degree o! accuracy, considering the eB%editious manner in which he sailed along the coast, and that there were no time ee%ers on board the /ndea"ourD but !rom 5andy 4a%e northward, where the direction o! the coast has a good deal o! westing in it, greater di!!erences began to show themsel"es# ./A5T 48A5T# </A) B;5TA)* BA$#3 There was a little tide running %ast the shi% in the !irst %art o! the night !rom <# <# G#, which a%%eared to be the !lood setting into 9er"ey's Bay# At daybrea .M8<*A$ 2 A;G;5T 1E,23 we %ursued our course along the shore, at the distance o! !our or !i"e miles, in soundings between M and I !athoms# The coast was low, but not sandyD and behind it was a range o! hills eBtending north&westward, and li e the !lat country, was not ill clothed with wood# There was no remar able %rojection till we came to the south head o! Bustard BayD and the night being then at hand, we ran in and anchored on a sandy bottom, in -1L2 !athoms, nearly in the same s%ot where the /ndea"our had lain thirty&two years be!ore# The roc y south head o! Bustard Bay, !rom the sur"ey between the %receding and !ollowing noons, should lie in 2- deg# I' south, and the time ee%ers %laced it in 1M1 deg# M2' eastD or M' south and 1,' east o! ca%tain 4oo 's situationD nor did the !orm o! the Bay corres%ond to his chart#7 The "ariation obser"ed a !ew miles !rom the anchorage, was E deg# 2,' east, with the shi%'s head <# G# by <#, or + deg# M2' reduced to the meridianD nearly as had been !ound in the morning, when it was + deg# M+' corrected# This is a !ull degree less than it was on the east side o! 5andy 4a%e, and ca%tain 4oo 's obser"ations show a still greater diminution# .7 The latitude 2- deg# -' was obser"ed on board the /ndea"our, at anchor hereD by whom is uncertain, but it was not by ca%tain 4oo or Mr# Green# 6n the AAstronomical 8bser"ationsA o! the "oyage, %# 12-, Mr# Gales, in deducing the %osition o! Bustard Bay, ta es no notice o! this obser"ation, and omits the latitude#3 T;/5*A$ 2 A;G;5T 1E,2 At daylight we %roceeded along the coastD but the wind being "ery light, were no more than abreast o! the north head o! Bustard Bay at noonD and the shi% being dri!ted by the tide toward some roc s lying o!! the head, a boat went to sound amongst them !or a %assageD in the mean time an air s%rung u% at northD and ha"ing got the shi%'s head to the eastward, we stretched o!! !rom the roc s# This north head lies in latitude 2- deg# ,', as laid down by ca%tain 4oo , and bears !rom the south head <# -- deg# G#, twel"e milesD it is moderately high, and behind it is a mass o! hummoc y, barren hills, which eBtend !ar to the westward# A ree! lies out as !ar as two miles !rom the north headD but within the outer roc abo"e water our boat had 1- !athoms, and there was room !or a shi% to %ass# <ot being able to weather the ree! be!ore dar , we wor ed to windward

during the nightD bearing down !re@uently to the 'ady <elson, to %re"ent se%aration# At daylight .G/*</5*A$ - A;G;5T 1E,23, the wind had shi!ted gradually round, !rom north to the south&westwardD and at noon the north head o! Bustard, Bay was brought to bear 5# 1+ deg# /#, !our leagues, our latitude being then 22 deg# -E', and longitude 1M1 deg# -,'# A low island was seen !rom the mast head, bearing north at the su%%osed distance o! siB leagues, o! which ca%tain 4oo does not ma e any mentionD7 and the !urthest "isible %art o! the main land was a cons%icuous hill, named AMount 'arcomA, in com%liment to ca%tain 'arcom o! the na"y# 6t bore G# 1L2 deg# <#, ten or ele"en leaguesD but the coast line between it and the north head o! Bustard Bay, seemed to be much bro en# .7 A cluster o! low islands, about !i!teen leagues !rom the coast, was seen in the !ollowing year by Mr# Bun er, commander o! the Albion, south whaler# 9e described the cluster to be o! considerable eBtent, and as lying in latitude 222L- deg#, and longitude about 1M21L2 deg#D or nearly a degree to the eastward o! the low isle abo"e mentioned# 6t is %robably to these islands, whose eBistence ca%tain 4oo sus%ected, that the great !lights o! boobies he saw in 9er"ey's Bay retire at night#3 6n the a!ternoon, a breeJe !rom the north&westward enabled us to stretch in !or the landD and we anchored soon a!ter sunset in 1, !athoms, brown sand, !i"e or siB miles !rom a %rojection which recei"ed the name o! AGatcombe 9eadAD and to the southward o! it there was a rather dee% bight in the coast# The bearings o! the land, ta en a !ew minutes be!ore anchoring, were as under# <orth head o! Bustard Bay, dist# M leagues, 5# M+ deg# /# Gatcombe 9ead, 5# E+ G# Mount 'arcom, <# E, G# <orthern eBtreme o! the coast, <# -+ G# The chain o! hills which rises near Bustard Bay, was seen to stretch westward a !ew miles behind the shore, till it was lost at the bac o! Mount 'arcom# These hills were not destitute o! wood, but they had a barren a%%earanceD and the coast was more roc y than sandy# At this anchorage, the !lood tide came !rom the north&by&east, and the ebb set east, hal! a mile %er hour# ./A5T 48A5T# P8)T 4;)T65#3 T9;)5*A$ M A;G;5T 1E,2 At daylight o! the Mth, we closed in with the shore, steering north&westwardD and at nine o'cloc a small o%ening was disco"ered, and water seen o"er the low !ront land# The 'ady <elson was ordered to loo !or anchorageD and at ele"en we came to, in - !athoms brown sand, one mile !rom the east %oint o! the o%eningD and the !ollowing bearings were then ta en( 5outhern eBtreme o! the coast, o"er the east %oint, 5# 2+ deg# /# )oc y islet in the middle o! the o%ening, dist# 11L2 mile, 5# 2E G# Mount 'arcom, 5# KM G# 9ummoc at the northern eBtreme >4# 4a%ricorn?, <# 1E G#

The o%ening was not so much as a mile in width, but !rom the eBtent o! water within, it was conjectured to ha"e a communication with the bight on the south side o! Gatcombe 9eadD and this being an object worthy o! eBamination, the sails were !urled and the boats hoisted out# The naturalist and his com%anions landed at the west side o! the entrance, where some 6ndians had assembled to loo at the shi%D but they retired on the a%%roach o! our gentlemen, and a!terwards ta ing the ad"antage o! a hilloc , began to throw stones at the %artyD nor would they desist until two or three mus ets were !ired o"er their heads, when they disa%%eared# There were se"en bar canoes lying on the shore, and near them hung u%on a tree some %arts o! a turtleD and scoo% nets, such as those o! 9er"ey's Bay, were also seen# 6 %roceeded u% the o%ening in a boat, and lieutenant Murray got under way to !ollow with the brigD but the tide ran u% so ra%idly, o"er a bottom which was roc y and "ery irregular in de%th, that he anchored almost immediately, and came to the middle islet where 6 was ta ing angles# Ge then went o"er to the west shore, and ascended a hill called in the chart, A9ill ViewAD !rom whence it was e"ident, that this water did certainly communicate with the bight round Gatcombe 9ead, and by an o%ening much more considerable than that in which the "essels were anchoredD the %ort was also seen to eBtend !ar to the westward, and 6 was induced to !orm a regular %lan !or its eBamination# The northern entrance being too !ull o! roc s and shoals !or the 'ady <elson to %ass, although drawing no more than siB !eet when the eels were hoisted u%, Mr# Murray was desired to go round to the southern o%eningD and about sunset he got under way# F)6*A$ + A;G;5T 1E,2 /arly in the morning 6 went o!! in the whale boat, with two days %ro"isions, and made nearly a straight course u% the %ort, !or a low %oint on the south shore called A5outh&trees PointA# The water was "ery shallow, with many roc s and dry ban s, until the southern entrance was !airly o%en, when the de%th "aried between K and 2 !athomsD but there was !rom + to E close to the low %oint# This !orms the inner %art o! the southern entrance, and Gatcombe 9ead, the outer %art, lies !rom it 5# +- deg# /# about !our milesD !rom the head southward, howe"er, the width o! the channel is much less, being contracted by ban s which eBtend out !rom the o%%osite shore# 5eeing nothing o! the brig, 6 %roceeded in the eBamination, steering westward !or a small island !our or !i"e miles u% the %ort# This is the southernmost o! siB islets, lying behind the %oint o! 9ill View, and !rom one o! two hilloc s u%on it, another set o! bearings was ta en# The de%th o! water thus !ar, had "aried !rom E !athoms, to siB !eet u%on a middle shoalD a!ter which it dee%ened to 2, -, and K !athoms, and there was 1, close to the southern islet# The 'ady <elson made her a%%earance o!! Gatcombe 9ead about noonD but not waiting !or her, 6 went to a %oint on the northern shore, near two miles higher u%, where the water was so dee% that a shi% might ma e !ast to the roc s and trees( the soundings were "ery irregular !rom the southern islet, but the least de%th was M !athoms# The %ort was here contracted to one mile in widthD but it o%ened out higher u%, and ta ing a more northern direction, assumed the !orm o! a ri"er# 6n steering across to the western shore, 6 carried !rom E to -, and a!terwards !rom + to 2 !athomsD when turning northward !or two islets co"ered with mangro"es, the de%th increased again to K !athoms# Ge tried

to land u%on a third islet, it being then sunsetD but a surrounding ban o! so!t mud ma ing the islet inaccessible, we rowed on u%wards, and landed with di!!iculty on the west shore be!ore it became @uite dar # The breadth o! the stream here was about a mileD and the greatest de%th + !athoms at low water# 5AT;)*A$ K A;G;5T 1E,2 6n the morning, a small o%ening was obser"ed in the o%%osite, eastern shoreD but reser"ing this !or eBamination in returning, 6 %roceeded u%wards with a !air wind, !i"e miles !urther, when the greatest de%th any where to be !ound was 2 !athoms# The stream then di"ided into two armsD the largest, about one mile in breadth, continuing its direction to the <# G# by <#, and a%%arently ending a little !urther u%D the other running westward, but the greater %art o! both occu%ied by shallow water and mud ban s# ;%on the %oint o! se%aration, which is insulated at high water, there were some low, reddish cli!!s, the second obser"ed on the west shoreD and !rom thence 6 set Mount 'arcom at 5# 1M deg# 1M' G#, distant se"en or eight miles# This station was nine miles abo"e the stee% %oint, where the %ort is !irst contracted, and the stee% %oint is ten !rom Gatcombe 9eadD and concei"ing it could answer no essentially use!ul %ur%ose to %ursue the eBamination where a shi% could not go, 6 returned to the small o%ening in the eastern shore, o%%osite to where we had %assed the night# There was !athoms in the entrance o! this little branchD but it %resently became shallow, and 6 landed to ascend a hill which had but little wood at the to%# The sea was "isible !rom thenceD and the shi% at the northern entrance o! the %ort was set at <# EI1L2 deg# /, and Mount 'arcom 5# MI1L2 deg# G# The small, mangro"e islets below this branch, were %assed on the east side in our way down, there being a narrow channel with !rom 2 to M !athoms in it, close %ast two trees standing alone in the waterD and at sunset we got on board the brig, lying at anchor o!! 5outh&trees Point# 'ieutenant Murray had !ound some di!!iculty in getting into the southern entrance, !rom a shoal which lay to the 5# /# by /#, one mile and a hal! !rom Gatcombe 9ead# 9e %assed on the north side o! the shoal, and brought dee% water as !ar as 5outh&trees PointD but in steering onward, in mid&channel, had met with other ban s, and was obliged to anchor# 6 desired Mr# Murray to ascertain as he went out, whether there were any channel on the south side o! the shoal near Gatcombe 9eadD and @uitting the brig neBt morning .5;<*A$ E A;G;5T 1E,23, 6 landed on the larger island to the south o! the %oint o! 9ill View, to ta e anglesD and soon a!ter nine o'cloc , reached the shi%# *uring my absence, the botanical gentlemen had been on shore e"ery day, lieutenant Flinders had made astronomical obser"ations, and boats had been em%loyed, though unsuccess!ully, in !ishing# <o 6ndians had been seen on the east side o! the %ort, and 6 there!ore ga"e a %art o! the shi%'s com%any lea"e this a!ternoon, to land there and di"ert themsel"es# At eight in the e"ening a gun was heard in the o!!ingD and by the guidance o! our light, the 'ady <elson returned to her anchorage !our hours a!terward# Mr# Murray had struc u%on a ree!, ha"ing e%t too near the shore in the a%%rehension o! missing the anchorage in the dar D but his "essel did not a%%ear to ha"e sustained any other damage than the main sliding eel being carried away# As much time ha"ing been em%loyed in the eBamination o! this %ort as the "arious objects 6 had in "iew could %ermit, we %re%ared to @uit it on the

!ollowing morning# This %art o! the /ast 4oast had been %assed in the night by ca%tain 4oo D so that both the o%enings esca%ed his notice, and the disco"ery o! the %ort !ell to our lot# 6n honour o! admiral 5ir )oger 4urtis, who had commanded at the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e and been so attenti"e to our wants, 6 ga"e to it the name o! P8)T 4;)T65D and the island which %rotects it !rom the sea, and in !act !orms the %ort, was called AFacing 6slandA# 6t is a sli% o! rather low land, eight miles in length, and !rom two to hal! a mile in breadth, ha"ing Gatcombe 9ead !or its southern eBtremity# The northern entrance to Port 4urtis is accessible only to boatsD but shi%s o! any siJe may enter the %ort by the southern o%ening# Mr# Murray did not !ind any %assage on the south side o! the shoal near Gatcombe 9ead, but could not say that none eBistedD he thought the dee% channel to be not more than a mile wideD but at hal! a mile !rom the head there was !rom + to 1, !athoms, and the channel !rom thence leads !air u% the %ort to beyond 5outh&trees PointD 6 sus%ected, howe"er, !rom the account gi"en by Mr# Murray, that there might be a second shoal, lying not so much as a mile !rom the head, and one is mar ed in the %lan accordingly, that shi%s may be induced to greater caution# There is good anchorage just within Gatcombe 9eadD and at a small beach there, behind a roc , is a rill o! !resh water, and wood is easily to be %rocured# 6 cannot "enture to gi"e any other sailing directions !or going u% this %ort, than to run cautiously, with a boat ahead and the %lan u%on the binnacle# Both the bottom and shoals are usually a miBture o! sand, with mud or clayD but in the northern entrance, and o!! some o! the u%%er %oints and islands where the tides run strong, the ground is in general roc y# The country round Port 4urtis is o"ers%read with grass, and %roduces the Aeucaly%tusA and other trees common to this coastD yet the soil is either sandy or co"ered with loose stones, and generally inca%able o! culti"ation# Much o! the shores and the low islands are o"ers%read with mangro"es, o! three di!!erent s%eciesD but that which sends down roots, or rather su%%orters !rom the branches, and interwea"es so closely as to be almost im%enetrable, was the most common# This s%ecies, the A)hiJo%hora MangleA o! 'innaeus, is also the most abundant in the /ast and Gest 6ndiesD but is not !ound at Port :ac son, nor u%on the south coast o! this country# Granite, strea ed red and blac , and crac ed in all directions, a%%eared to be the common stone in the u%%er %arts o! the %ortD but a strati!ied argillaceous stone was not un!re@uentD and u%on the larger island, lying o!! the %oint o! 9ill View, there was a so!tish, white earth, which 6 too to be calcareous until it was tried with acids, and did not %roduce any e!!er"escence# Traces o! inhabitants were !ound u%on all the shores where we landed, but the nati"es e%t out o! sight a!ter the little s irmish on the !irst day o! our arri"alD they subsist %artly on turtle, and %ossess bar canoes and scoo% nets# Ge saw three turtle lying on the water, but were not so !ortunate as to %rocure any# Fish seemed to be %lenti!ul, and some were s%eared by Bongaree, who was a constant attendant in my boatD and yet our e!!orts with the seine were altogether unsuccess!ul# The shores abound with oysters, amongst which, in the u%%er %arts o! the %ort, was the ind %roducing %earlsD but being small and discoloured, they are o! no "alue# The attem%ts made near the shi% with the dredge, to %rocure larger oysters !rom the dee% water, were without success#

6 saw no @uadru%eds in the woods, and almost no birdsD but there were some %elicans, gulls, and curlews about the shores and !lats# Fresh water was !ound in small %ools on both sides o! the northern entrance, and at the %oint o! 9ill View 6 met with some in holesD but that which best merits the attention o! a shi%, is the rill !ound by Mr# Murray at the bac o! the small beach within Gatcombe 9ead# The AlatitudeA o! our anchorage at the northern entrance, !rom !our meridian altitudes o! the sun, is 22 deg# --' 1+C south# 5iB sets o! distances o! the sun west o! the moon, ta en by lieutenant Flinders, would ma e the AlongitudeA 1M1 deg# 21' 22C eastD the two time ee%ers ga"e 1M1 deg# 2,' 1,CD and !i!ty sets o! distances, reduced !rom Broad 5ound by the sur"ey, which 6 consider to be the best authority, %lace the anchorage in 1M1 deg# 2,' 1MC east# These being reduced by the sur"ey to the southern entrance, %lace Gatcombe 9ead in latitude 22 deg# M21L2 deg# 5# longitude 1M1 deg# 2-' /# <o A"ariationsA were obser"ed at the anchorageD but two am%litudes o!! Gatcombe 9ead ga"e 11 deg# 11', and aJimuths with three com%asses, 1, deg# M,' east, the shi%'s head being G# 5# G# and G# <# G# These being reduced to the meridian, will gi"e the true "ariation to be E deg# -,' east# This is an increase o! near 2 deg# !rom Bustard BayD and seems attributable to the attraction o! the granitic land which lay to the westward, and drew the south end o! the needle that way# The rise o! AtideA at the %lace where 6 sle%t near the head o! the %ort, was no more than !our !eetD but u%on the roc y islet in the northern entrance, there were mar s o! its ha"ing risen the double o! that @uantity# The time o! high water was not well ascertained, but it will be between eight and nine hours a!ter the moon's %assage o"er and under the meridian# M8<*A$ I A;G;5T 1I,2 8n getting under way at daylight o! the Ith, to %rosecute the eBamination o! the coast, the anchor came u% with an arm bro en o!!, in conse@uence o! a !law eBtending two&thirds through the iron# The negligence with which this anchor had been made, might in some cases ha"e caused the loss o! the shi%# ./A5T 48A5T# =/PP/' BA$#3 6n !ollowing the low and rather sandy shore, northward to 4a%e 4a%ricorn, we %assed within a roc y islet and another com%osed o! roc and sand, !our miles south&east o! the ca%e, the soundings being there !rom E to I !athomsD and at ten o'cloc hauled round !or 4a%e =e%%el, which lies !rom 4a%e 4a%ricorn <# E, deg# G#, ten miles# The shore is low, with some small inlets in it, and sand ban s with shoal water run o!! more than two milesD at siB miles out there is a hummoc y island and !our roc s, one o! which was at !irst ta en !or a shi%# Ge %assed within these, as ca%tain 4oo had be!ore doneD and at hal! %ast two in the a!ternoon anchored in =e%%el Bay, in + !athoms so!t bottom, three&@uarters o! a mile !rom a head on the east side o! the entrance# My object in sto%%ing at this bay was to eB%lore two o%enings mar ed in

it by ca%tain 4oo , which it was %ossible might be the entrances o! ri"ers leading into the interior# 5o soon as the shi% was secured, a boat was sent to haul the seine, and 6 landed with a %arty o! the gentlemen to ins%ect the bay !rom an eminence called A5ea 9illA# There were !our %laces where the water %enetrated into the land, but none o! these o%enings were largeD that on the west side, in which were two islands, was the most considerable, and the hills near it were su!!iciently ele"ated to a!!ord an eBtensi"e "iewD whereas in most other %arts, the shores were low and co"ered with mangro"es# These considerations induced me to begin the %ro%osed eBamination by the western armD and early neBt morning .T;/5*A$ 1, A;G;5T 1E,23 6 embar ed in the 'ady <elson, intending to em%loy her and my whale boat in eB%loring the bay and inlets, whilst the botanists made their eBcursions in the neighbourhood o! the shi%# The de%th in steering !or the western arm was !rom + to I !athoms, !or about one mile, when it diminished @uic ly to 2, u%on a shoal which seemed to run u% the bayD the water a!terwards dee%ened to M and K !athoms, but meeting with a second shoal, the brig was obliged to anchor# 6 then went on in my boat !or the nearest o! the two islands, %assing o"er the ban s and crossing the narrow, dee% channels mar ed in the %lan# The two islands are mostly "ery low, and the shores so muddy and co"ered with mangro"es, that a landing on the northern and highest o! them could be e!!ected only at the west endD but a hilloc there enabled me to ta e an use!ul set o! bearings, including Mount 'arcom, which is "isible !rom all %arts o! this bay, as it is !rom Port 4urtis# 6n the a!ternoon 6 %roceeded u% the western arm, ha"ing !rom 2 to E !athoms close along the northern shoreD and about !our miles u%, where the width was diminished to one mile, !ound a landing %lace, a rare con"enience here, and ascended a hill !rom whence there was a good "iew# At !i"e or siB leagues to the south, and eBtending thence north&westward, was a continuation o! the same chain o! hills which rises near Bustard Bay and %asses behind Mount 'arcomD but at the bac o! =e%%el Bay it !orms a more connected ridge, and is roc y, stee%, and barren# Githin this ridge the land is low, and intersected by "arious streams, some !alling into the western arm at ten or twel"e miles abo"e the entrance, and others into the south&west and south arms o! the bay# The borders o! the western arm, and o! its u%%er branches so !ar as could be %ercei"ed, were o"er&run with mangro"esD whence it seemed %robable the water was salt, and that no landing was %racticable, higher than this stationD the sun also was near setting when my bearings !rom AGest&arm 9illA were com%letedD and 6 there!ore ga"e u% the intention o! %roceeding !urther, and returned to the northern island in the entrance, to %ass the night# 6t was high water here at se"en in the e"ening, and the tide !ell nine and a hal! !eetD but the morning's tide rose to siB and a hal! only .G/*</5*A$ 11 A;G;5T 1E,23# 6n rowing out between the two islands, 6 had !rom E to 2 !athomsD but shoal water in crossing !rom thence to the entrance o! the south&west arm, where again there was M to E !athoms# A strong wind !rom the south&eastward did not %ermit me to go u% this arm, and the eBtensi"e !lats made it im%ossible to land u%on the south side o! the bayD and !inding that nothing more could be done at this time, 6 returned to the shi%# The numerous shoals in =e%%el Bay rendering the ser"ices o! the 'ady <elson in a great measure useless to the eBamination, 6 directed lieutenant Murray to run out to the hummoc y island lying to the north&east !rom 4a%e =e%%el, and endea"our to ta e us some turtleD !or there were no signs o! inhabitants u%on it, and turtle seemed to be

%lenti!ul in this neighbourhood# 9e was also to ascend the hills, and ta e bearings o! any island or other object "isible in the o!!ingD and a!ter ma ing such remar s as circumstances might allow, to return not later than the third e"ening# T9;)5*A$ 12 A;G;5T 1E,2 <eBt a!ternoon, 6 went, accom%anied by the naturalist, to eBamine the eastern arm o! the bay, which is di"ided into two branches# Pursuing the easternmost and largest, with soundings !rom + to 2 !athoms, we came to se"eral mangro"e islands, about !our miles u%, where the stream changed its direction !rom 5# 5# /# to /# 5# /#, and the dee%est water was 2 !athoms# A little !urther on we landed !or the night, cutting a %ath through the mangro"es to a higher %art o! the northern shoreD but the swarms o! mus etoes and sand !lies made slee%ing im%ossible to all eBce%t one o! the boat's crew, who was so en"iably constituted, that these insects either did not attac him, or could not %enetrate his s in# 6t was high water here at nine o'cloc D and the tide a!terwards !ell between ten and twel"e !eet# F)6*A$ 12 A;G;5T 1E,2 6n the morning, 6 set Broad Mount in =e%%el Bay at <# +1 deg# 2,' G# and Mount 'arcom 5# E deg# 2,' /D and we then steered onward in siB to eight !eet water, amongst "arious little islands o! mud and mangro"esD the whole width o! the stream being still more than hal! a mile, nearly the same as at the entrance# Three miles abo"e the slee%ing %lace the water began to increase in breadth, and was 2 !athoms dee%D and ad"ancing !urther, it too a direction more southward, and to our "ery agreeable sur%rise, brought us to the head o! Port 4urtisD !orming thus a channel o! communication !rom =e%%el Bay, and cutting o!! 4a%e 4a%ricorn with a %iece o! land twenty&!i"e miles in length, !rom the continent# 6 landed on the eastern shore, nearly o%%osite to the reddish cli!!s which had been my u%%ermost station !rom Port 4urtis, and set Broad Mount in =e%%el Bay at <# +, deg# -M' G# Mount 'arcom, 5# 1+ 1M G# 9a"ing !ound one communication, we rowed u% the western branch near the reddish cli!!s, ho%ing to get bac to =e%%el Bay by a second new %assageD but a!ter going two miles, with a diminishing de%th !rom - !athoms to three !eet, we were sto%%ed by mangro"es, and obliged to return to the main stream# The tide was hal! ebbed when we came to the shallowest %art o! the communicating channelD and it was with much di!!iculty that the boat could be got o"er# A s%ace here o! about two miles in length, a%%ears to be dry, or "ery nearly so, at low waterD but it is %ossible that some small channel may eBist amongst the mangro"es, o! su!!icient de%th !or a boat to %ass at all times o! tide# Ge reached the entrance o! the eastern arm !rom =e%%el Bay, with the last o! the ebbD and too the !lood to go u% the southern branch# The de%th o! water was generally 2 !athoms, on the eastern side, and the width nearly hal! a mile# This continued three miles u%, when a di"ision too %laceD in the smallest, which ran southward, we got one mile, and u% the other, leading south&westward, two milesD when both were !ound to terminate in shallows amongst the mangro"es# 6t was then dus D and there being no

%ossibility o! landing, the boat was made !ast to a mangro"e bush till high water, and with the returning ebb, we got on board the shi% at ele"en o'cloc # The 'ady <elson had returned !rom the hummoc y island, without ta ing any turtle# <o good anchorage was !ound, nor was there either wood or water u%on the island, worth the attention o! a shi%# Mr# Murray ascended the highest o! the hummoc s with a com%ass, but did not see any lands in the o!!ing !urther out than the =e%%el 6sles# 5AT;)*A$ 1- A;G;5T 1E,2 6 le!t the shi% again in the morning, and went u% the southern arm to a little hill on its western shoreD ho%ing to gain !rom thence a better nowledge o! the "arious streams which intersect the low land on the south side o! the bay# This arm is one mile in width, and the de%th in it !rom 2 to + !athomsD the shores are !lat, as in other %arts, and co"ered with mangro"esD but at high water a landing was e!!ected under the A5outh 9illA, without much trouble# The sides o! this little eminence are stee%, and were so thic ly co"ered with trees and shrubs, bound together and intertwisted with strong "ines, that our attem%ts to reach the to% were !ruitless# 6t would %erha%s ha"e been easier to climb u% the trees, and scramble !rom one to another u%on the "ines, than to ha"e %enetrated through the intricate net wor in the dar ness underneath# *isa%%ointed in my %rinci%al object, and unable to do any thing in the boat, which could not then a%%roach the shore within two hundred yards, 6 sought to wal u%wards, and ascertain the communication between the south and south&west armsD but a!ter much !atigue amongst the mangro"es and muddy swam%s, "ery little more in!ormation could be gained# The small !ish which lea%s on land u%on two strong breast !ins, and was !irst seen by ca%tain 4oo on the shores o! Thirsty 5ound, was "ery common in the swam%s round the 5outh 9ill# There were also numbers o! a small ind o! red crab, ha"ing one o! its claws uncommonly large, being, indeed, nearly as big as the bodyD and this it ee%s erected and o%en, so long as there is any eB%ectation o! disturbance# 6t was curious to see a !ile o! these %ugnacious little animals raise their claws at our a%%roach, and o%en their %incers ready !or an attac D and a!terwards, !inding there was no molestation, shoulder their arms and march on# At nine in the e"ening, the tide brought the boat under the hill, and allowed us to return to the shi%# All the eBamination o! =e%%el Bay which our time could allow, was now doneD but a day being re@uired !or laying down the %lan o! the di!!erent arms, 6 o!!ered a boat on 5unday .1M A;G;5T 1E,23 morning to the botanists, to "isit the 5outh 9ill, which a!!orded a "ariety o! %lantsD but they !ound little that had not be!ore !allen under their obser"ation# A %art o! the shi%'s com%any was allowed to go on shore abreast o! the shi%, !or no 6ndians had hitherto been seen thereD but towards the e"ening, about twenty were obser"ed in com%any with a %arty o! the sailors# They had been met with near 4a%e =e%%el, and at !irst menaced our %eo%le with their s%earsD but !inding them inclined to be !riendly, laid aside their arms, and accom%anied the sailors to the shi% in a good&natured manner# A master's mate and a seaman were, howe"er, missing, and nothing was heard o! them all night# M8<*A$ 1+ A;G;5T 1E,2 At daylight, two guns were !ired and an o!!icer was sent u% the small inlet under 5ea 9illD whilst 6 too a boat round to 4a%e =e%%el, in the

double "iew o! searching !or the absentees and obtaining a set o! bearings !rom the to% o! the ca%e# This station a!!orded me a better "iew o! the =e%%el 6sles than any !ormer oneD and to the northward o! them were two high %ea s on the main land, nearly as !ar distant as 4a%e Mani!old# Amongst the number o! bearings ta en, those most essential to the connection o! the sur"ey were as under# 4a%e 4a%ricorn, outer hummoc , 5# KI deg# 2,' /# Mount 'arcom, 5# + 1, /# The shi% at anchor, 5# MI M, G# 9ighest %ea near 4a%e Mani!old, <# 2M 1, G# =e%%el 6sles, outermost, called !irst lum%, <# , -M /# 9ummoc y 6sland, <# M- deg# 2M' to +1 -, /# 8n my return to the shi%, the master's mate and seaman were on board# The o!!icer had "ery incautiously strayed away !rom his %arty, a!ter nati"es had been seenD and at sunset, when he should ha"e been at the beach, he and the man he had ta en with him were entangled in a muddy swam% amongst mangro"es, se"eral miles distantD in which uncom!ortable situation, and %ersecuted by clouds o! mus etoes, they %assed the night# <eBt morning they got out o! the swam%D but !ell in with about twenty&!i"e 6ndians, who surrounded and too them to a !ire %lace# A cou%le o! duc s were broiledD and a!ter the wanderers had satis!ied their hunger, and undergone a %ersonal eBamination, they were conducted bac to the shi% in sa!ety# 5ome o! the gentlemen went to meet the nati"es with %resents, and an inter"iew too %lace, highly satis!actory to both %artiesD the 6ndians then returned to the woods, and our %eo%le were brought on board# T;/5*A$ 1K A;G;5T 1E,2 The anchor was weighed at daylight o! the 1Kth, but the wind and tide being un!a"ourable, it too the whole day to get into the o!!ingD at dus we came to, in I !athoms, mud and sand, ha"ing the centre o! the hummoc y island bearing 5# K2 deg# /# two leagues# A s etch o! the island and o! 4a%e =e%%el was ta en by Mr# Gestall >Atlas, Plate HV666# View M#? whilst beating out o! the bay# =e%%el Bay was disco"ered and named by ca%tain 4oo , who sailed %ast it in 1KK,# A shi% going in will be much decei"ed by the colour o! the waterD !or the shores o! the bay being so!t and muddy, the water running out by the dee% channels with the latter %art o! the ebb, is thic D whilst the more shallow %arts, o"er which the tide does not then set, are co"ered with sea water, which is clear# <ot only are the shores !or the most %art muddy, but a large %ortion o! the bay itsel! is occu%ied by shoals o! mud and sand# The dee% water is in the channels made by the tides, setting in and out o! the di!!erent armsD and the best in!ormation 6 can gi"e o! them, will be !ound by re!erring to the %lan# The broadest o! these channels is about two miles wide, on the east side o! the bayD and our anchorage there near 5ea 9ill, just within the entrance, seems to be the best !or a shi% %ur%osing to ma e but a short stay# Good is easily %rocuredD and !resh water was !ound in small %onds and swam%s, at a little distance behind the beach# This is also the best, i! not the sole %lace in the bay !or hauling the seineD and a !resh meal o! good !ish was there se"eral times %rocured !or all the shi%'s com%any# The country round =e%%el Bay mostly consists either o! stony hills, or o! "ery low land co"ered with salt swam%s and mangro"es# Almost all the

borders o! the bay, and o! the se"eral arms into which it branches, are o! this latter descri%tionD so that there are !ew %laces where it was not necessary to wade some distance in so!t mud, and a!terwards to cut through a barrier o! mangro"es, be!ore reaching the solid land# Mention has been made o! the ridge o! hills by which the low land on the south side o! the bay is bounded# The u%%er %arts o! it are stee% and roc y, and may be a thousand, or %erha%s !i!teen hundred !eet high, but the lower slo%ing sides are co"ered with woodD Mount 'arcom and the hills within the ridge, are clothed with trees nearly to the to%D yet the as%ect o! the whole is sterile# The high land near the western arm, though stony and shallow in soil, is co"ered with grass, and trees o! moderate growthD but the best %art o! the country was that near 4a%e =e%%elD hill and "alley are there well %ro%ortioned, the grass is o! a better ind and more abundant, the trees are thinly scattered, and there is "ery little underwood# The lowest %arts are not mangro"e swam%s, as elsewhere, but %leasant loo ing "allies, at the bottom o! which are %onds o! !resh water !re@uented by !loc s o! duc s# 4attle would !ind here a tolerable abundance o! nutriti"e !ood, though the soil may %erha%s be no where su!!iciently dee% and good to a!!ord a %roducti"e return to the husbandman# A!ter the mangro"e, the most common trees round =e%%el Bay are di!!erent inds o! Aeucaly%tusA, !it !or the ordinary %ur%oses o! building# A s%ecies o! A4ycasA, described by ca%tain 4oo >9aw esworth, 666# 22,, 221? as a third ind o! %alm !ound by him on this coast, and bearing %oisonous nuts, was not scarce in the neighbourhood o! Gest&arm 9ill# Ge !ound three inds o! stone here( a greyish slate, @uartJ and "arious granitic combinations, and a so!t, whitish stone, sa%onaceous to the touchD the two !irst were o!ten !ound intermiBed, and the last generally, i! not always lying abo"e them# The @uartJ was o! "arious colours, and sometimes %ureD but ne"er in a state o! crystallisation# Ghere"er we landed there had been 6ndiansD but it was near the shi% only, that any o! them made their a%%earance# They were described by the gentlemen who saw them, as stout, muscular men, who seemed to understand bartering better than most, or %erha%s any %eo%le we had hitherto seen in this country# ;%on the outer bone o! the wrist they had the same hard tumour as the %eo%le o! 9er"ey's Bay, and the cause o! it was attem%ted, ine!!ectually, to be eB%lained to one o! the gentlemenD but as cast nets were seen in the neighbourhood, there seems little doubt that the manner o! throwing them %roduces the tumours# These %eo%le were not de"oid o! curiosityD but se"eral things which might ha"e been su%%osed most li ely to eBcite it, %assed without notice# 8! their dis%ositions we had e"ery reason to s%ea highly, !rom their conduct to our sailorsD but %articularly to the master's mate and seaman who had lost themsel"es, and were absolutely in their %ower# 8n the morning we @uitted the bay, a large %arty was again seen, coming down to the usual %laceD which seemed to im%ly that our conduct and %resents had conciliated their good will, and that they would be glad to ha"e communication with another "essel# 6t is scarcely necessary to say, that these %eo%le are almost blac , and go entirely na ed, since none o! any other colour, or regularly wearing clothes, ha"e been seen in any %art o! Terra Australis# About their !ire %laces were usually scattered the shells o! large crabs, the bones o! turtle, and the remains o! a %arsni%&li e root, a%%arently o! !ernD and once the bones o! a %or%oise were !oundD besides these, they doubtless %rocure !ish, and wild duc s were seen in their %ossession# There are angaroos in the woods, and se"eral bustards were seen near 4a%e =e%%el#

The mud ban s are !re@uented by curlews, gulls, and some lesser birds# 8ysters o! a small, crum%ly ind, are tolerably %lenti!ulD they do not adhere to the roc s, but stic to each other in large masses on the ban sD here are also %earl oysters, but not so abundantly as in Port 4urtis# The AlatitudeA o! our anchorage, !rom the mean o! three meridian altitudes to the north, was 22 deg# 2I' 2-C south# A'ongitudeA !rom twenty&!our sets o! distances o! the sun and moon, the %articulars o! which are gi"en in Table 6# o! A%%endiB <o# 6# to this "olume, 1M1 deg# ,' 2ECD but !rom !i!ty other sets, reduced by the sur"ey !rom Broad 5ound, the better longitude o! the anchorage is 1M, deg# ME' 2,C east# According to the time ee%ers the longitude would be 1M, deg# MK' -2CD and in an inter"al o! siB days, they were !ound to err no more than MC o! longitude on the Port&:ac son rates# From three com%asses on the binnacle, lieutenant Flinders obser"ed the A"ariationA + deg# -E', when the shi%'s head was north, and M deg# -K' when it was south&south&east# This last being reduced to the meridian, the mean o! both will be + deg# -K' east, nearly the same as in Bustard BayD but 2 deg# less than was obser"ed o!! Gatcombe 9ead# At the di!!erent stations round =e%%el Bay whence bearings were ta en, the "ariation di!!ered !rom M deg# 1,' to + deg# 2,' east# Ghilst beating o!! the entrance, 6 had K deg# M2' east "ariation, !rom aJimuths with the sur"eying com%ass when the head was <# G#, and !rom an am%litude, with the head <# by G#, + deg# M-'D the mean reduced to the meridian# will be !or the outside o! the bay + deg# 1+' east# 4a%tain 4oo had K deg# 2-' near the same situation, !rom am%litudes and aJimuths obser"ed in 1KK,, with the /ndea"our's head G# <# G# The rise o! AtideA in the entrance o! =e%%el Bay seems to "ary at the nea%s and s%rings, !rom nine to !ourteen !eet, and high water to ta e %lace Anine hours and a hal!A a!ter the moon's %assage o"er and under the meridianD but the morning's tide !ell two or three !eet short o! that at night# The set %ast the shi% was greatest at the last @uarter o! the !lood and !irst o! the ebb, when it ran two&and&hal! nots, and turned "ery suddenly# 6n the o!!ing, the !lood came !rom the eastward, at the rate o! one mile %er hour# 49APT/) 66# The =e%%el 6sles, and coast to 4a%e Mani!old# A new %ort disco"ered and eBamined# 9ar"ey's 6sles# A new %assage into 5hoal&water Bay# View !rom Mount Gestall# A boat lost# The u%%er %arts o! 5hoal&water Bay eBamined# 5ome account o! the country and inhabitants# General remar s on the bay# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# ./A5T 48A5T# F)8M =/PP/' BA$#3

A;G;5T 1E,2 The roc s and islands lying o!! =e%%el Bay to the northward, are numerous and scattered without orderD two o! them are o! greater magnitude than the rest, and ca%tain 4oo had attem%ted to %ass between these and the main land, !rom which they are distant about !i"e milesD but shoal water obliged him to desist# Ghen we got under way in the morning o! the 1Eth .G/*</5*A$ 1E A;G;5T 1E,23, our course was directed !or the outside o! these two islands, and we %assed within a mile o! them in I, and !rom that to 12 !athoms water# They are !i"e miles asunder, and the southernmost and largest is near twel"e in circum!erenceD its roc y hills are %artly co"ered with grass and wood, and the gullies down the sides, as also the nati"es seen u%on the island, im%lied that !resh water was to be had there# ./A5T 48A5T# 4AP/ MA<6F8'*#3 At the bac o! the islands the main coast is low and sandy, with the eBce%tion o! two or three roc y headsD but at a !ew miles inland there is a chain o! hills, moderately ele"ated and not ill clothed with wood# These hills are a continuation o! the same which 6 had ascended on the west side o! =e%%el Bay, and eBtend as !ar as the two %ea s behind 4a%e Mani!old# A!ter %assing the =e%%el 6sles we steered !or a small o%ening in the coast, se"en or eight miles to the north&west, and the 'ady <elson was directed to lead inD but on her ma ing the signal !or 2 !athoms, and the inlet a%%earing to be a sandy co"e !it only !or boats, we e%t on northward, between one and two miles !rom the shore# At !i"e o'cloc , the south&east breeJe died away, and a descent o! the mercury announcing either little wind !or the night or a breeJe o!! the land, a edge anchor was dro%%ed in E !athoms, sandy bottom# The bearings then ta en were, =e%%el 6sles, the !irst lum%, 5# -M deg# /# 4# Mani!old, east end o! the island near it, <# I /# Pea ed islet in the o!!ing, <# 2E1L2 /# Flat islet, distant !our or !i"e leagues, <# -2 /# The two last are called the Brothers#, in ca%tain 4oo 's chartD though described in the "oyage as being, one Clow and !lat, and the other high and round#C A %er!oration in the higher islet admits the light entirely through it, and is distinguishable when it bears nearly south&east# T9;)5*A$ 1I A;G;5T 1E,2 At se"en neBt morning, ha"ing then a light air !rom the land with !oggy weather, we steered northward along the coastD and at noon were in latitude 22 deg# -K2L-', and two roc s near the shore bore 5# M- deg# G# two or three miles# From that time until e"ening, we wor ed to windward against a breeJe !rom the north&east, which a!terwards "eered to <# <# G#D and at nine o'cloc , a small anchor was dro%%ed in 1- !athoms, two miles !rom the shore# The 'ady <elson had !allen to leewardD and made no answer to our signals during the night# F)6*A$ 2, A;G;5T 1E,2 At daylight, su%%osing the brig had %assed us by means o! a shi!t o! wind to G# <# G#, we %roceeded along the coast to the island lying o!! 4a%e Mani!old# This island, with some o! the northern hills, had been s etched

by Mr# Gestall >Atlas, Plate HV666# View +#? on the %receding e"eningD it is slightly co"ered with "egetation, and lies in latitude 22 deg# -2', and longitude 1M, deg# M,'# The ca%e is !ormed o! se"eral roc y heads and intermediate beachesD and the hills behind, !rom which the ca%e was named, rise one o"er the other to the two %ea s set !rom 4a%e =e%%el, and a%%eared to be roc y and barren# The easternmost, and somewhat the highest %ea , is about !our miles !rom the shore, and lies 5# -I deg# G# !rom the east end o! the island whose situation is abo"e gi"en# The wind was !rom the northward at noon, and we were then ma ing a stretch !or the land, which was distant !our or !i"e miles# 'atitude, obser"ed to the north, 2- deg# 2+1L2' 4# Mani!old, east end o! the island, 5# 1 G# 4# Mani!old, the highest %ea , 5# 2,1L2 G# 5mall isle >/ntrance 6#? at the northern eBtreme, <# 2I G# Pea ed islet in the o!!ing, distant K miles, 5# +1 /# From 4a%e Mani!old the coast !alls bac to a sandy beach, siB miles long, and near it are some scattered roc s# The land is there "ery lowD but at the north end o! the beach is a hilly %rojection, !rom which we tac ed at one o'cloc , in 12 !athomsD being then within a mile o! two roc s, and two miles !rom the main land# The brig was seen to the south&eastward, and we made a long stretch o!!, to gi"e her an o%%ortunity o! joining, and at two in the morning .5AT;)*A$ 21 A;G;5T 1E,23 lay by !or herD but the wind "eering to south&west at !i"e, we stretched in !or the land, and a%%roached some roc y islets, %art o! the 9ar"ey's 6sles o! ca%tain 4oo , o! which, and o! the main coast as !ar as 6sland 9ead, Mr# Gestall made a s etch >Atlas, Plate HV666# View K?# At hal! %ast nine, when we tac ed !rom 9ar"ey's 6sles, 6 was sur%rised to see trees u%on them resembling the %ines o! <or!ol 6slandD none such ha"ing been be!ore noticed u%on this coast, nor to my nowledge, u%on any coast o! Terra Australis# Pines were also distinguished u%on a more southern islet, !our miles o!!, the same which had been the northern eBtreme at the %receding noonD and behind it was a dee% bight in the land where there seemed to be shelter# The breeJe had then shi!ted to south, and the 'ady <elson being to windward, the signal was made !or her to loo !or anchorageD but the brig being "ery leewardly, we %assed her and stood into the bight by an o%ening between the islets o! one mile wide and !rom 1, to K !athoms in de%th# 8n the soundings decreasing to M, we tac ed and came to an anchor near the %ine island in the entrance, in K !athoms coarse sand, eB%osed between <# KM deg# and 5# 22 deg# /, and the wind was then at south&eastD but ha"ing a !air %assage by which we could run out to the northward#, in case o! necessity, 6 did not a%%rehend any danger to the "essels# ./A5T 48A5T# P8)T B8G/<#3 6nstead o! a bight in the coast, we !ound this to be a %ort o! some eBtentD which had not only esca%ed the obser"ation o! ca%tain 4oo , but !rom the shi!t o! wind, was "ery near being missed by us also# 6 named it P8)T B8G/<, in com%liment to ca%tain :ames Bowen o! the na"yD and to the hilly %rojection on the south side o! the entrance >see the s etch?, 6 ga"e the a%%ellation o! 4a%e 4linton, a!ter colonel 4linton o! the EMth, who commanded the land, as ca%tain Bowen did the sea !orces at Madeira, when we sto%%ed at that island A boat was des%atched with the scienti!ic gentlemen to the north side, where the hills rise abru%tly and ha"e a romantic a%%earanceD another went to the same %lace to haul the seine at a small beach in !ront o! a

gully between the hills, where there was a %ros%ect o! obtaining !resh waterD and a third boat was sent to A/ntrance 6slandA with the car%enters to cut %ine logs !or "arious %ur%oses, but %rinci%ally to ma e a main sliding eel !or the 'ady <elson# 8ur little consort sailed indi!!erently at the bestD but since the main eel had been carried away at Facing 6sland, it was as unsa!e to trust her on a lee shore, e"en in moderate weather# 8n landing at /ntrance 6sland, to ta e angles and ins%ect the !orm o! the %ort, 6 saw an arm eBtending behind 4a%e 4linton to the southward, which had the a%%earance o! a ri"erD a still broader arm ran westward, until it was lost behind the landD and between /ntrance 6sland and 4a%e 4linton was a s%ace three miles wide, where nothing a%%eared to obstruct the !ree %assage o! a shi% into both arms# Finding the %ort to be worthy o! eBamination, and learning that the seine had been success!ul and that good water was to be %rocured, 6 le!t orders with lieutenant Fowler to em%loy the %eo%le in getting o!! %ine logs and watering the shi%D and early neBt morning .5;<*A$ 22 A;G;5T 1E,23, set o!! in my whale boat u%on an eBcursion round the %ort# From the shi% to the inner %art o! 4a%e 4linton the soundings were !rom M to E !athoms, on a sandy bottomD but close to the innermost %oint there was no ground at 1, !athoms# From thence 6 steered u% the western arm, %assing to the south o! a central roc lying a mile outD and got with di!!iculty to the %rojection named AGest&water 9eadA# The arm terminated a little !urther onD but to the northward, o"er the land, 6 saw a long shallow bay at the bac o! 6sland 9ead, and beyond it was the sea# This western arm being !ull o! sandy shoals, and o! no utility, i! at all accessible to shi%s, 6 obser"ed the latitude and too angles, and then returned to the inner %art o! 4a%e 4linton# 6n rowing to the southward, close along the inside o! the ca%e, we had !rom 2 to I !athoms waterD but it was too late in the e"ening to ma e an eBamination o! the southern arm, and 6 there!ore ascended a hill near the shore, to ins%ect it# This was called A/ast&water 9illA, and 6 saw !rom its to%, that the southern arm eBtended 5# 1+ deg# G# about se"en miles, to the !oot o! the hills behind 4a%e Mani!old, where it terminated in shallows and mangro"es# 4lose under /astwater 9ill there was a small branch running eastward, nearly insulating 4a%e 4lintonD but neither this branch nor the main arm seemed to be dee% enough to admit a shi% much higher than the ca%eD and in conse@uence, 6 ga"e u% the !urther eBamination, and returned on board at se"en o'cloc # Amongst the use!ul bearings !or the sur"ey, ta en at /astwater 9ill, were the !ollowing( /ntrance 6sland, centre, <# I deg# -M' /# Pea ed 6slet in the o!!ing, 5# ME -M /# 4a%e Mani!old, east end o! the island, 5# 2I -, /# 4a%e Mani!old, highest o! the two %ea s, 5# 2 2, G# By means o! this last bearing, the longitude o! Port Bowen was connected with =e%%el Bay and Port 4urtis, inde%endently o! the time ee%ers# A !resh wind !rom the south&eastward had blown all day, and raised so much sur! on the north side o! the %ort, that our watering there was much im%ededD a midshi%man and %arty o! men remained on shore with cas s all night, and it was not until neBt e"ening .M8<*A$ 22 A;G;5T 1E,23 that the holds were com%leted and %ine logs got on board# The water was "ery goodD it drained down the gully to a little beach between two %rojecting beads

which ha"e roc y islets lying o!! them# The gully is on the west side o! the northern entrance, and will easily be nown, since we sent there on !irst coming to an anchor, in the eB%ectation o! !inding water, but Mr# Gestall's s etch will ob"iate any di!!iculty >Atlas, Plate HV666# View I?# There were %ine trees in the watering gully and on the neighbouring hillsD but the best, and also the most con"enient, were those u%on /ntrance 6sland, some o! them being !it to ma e to% masts !or shi%s# The branches are "ery brittleD but the car%enter thought the trun s to be tough, and su%erior to the <orway %ine, both !or s%ars and %lan s( tur%entine eBudes !rom between the wood and the bar , in considerable @uantities# For a shi% wanting to ta e in water and %ine logs, the most con"enient %lace is under /ntrance 6sland, where we lay in the 6n"estigatorD indeed !resh water was not !ound in any other %laceD but this anchorage is not tenable against a strong south&east wind# At the entrance o! the southern arm, just within 4a%e 4linton, a shi% may lie at all times in %er!ect sa!etyD and might either be laid on shore or be ho"e down, there being 2 !athoms close to the roc s, at each end o! the beachD it is moreo"er %robable, that !resh water might be there !ound, or be %rocured by digging at the !oot o! the hills# 6n the southern arm the bottom is muddyD but it is o! sand in other %arts o! the %ort# 8! the country round Port Bowen not much can be said in %raiseD it is in general either sandy or stony, and un!it !or culti"ationD ne"ertheless, besides %ines, there are trees, %rinci%ally Aeucaly%tusA, o! moderate siJe, and the "allies o! 4a%e 4linton are o"ers%read with a tolerably good grass# <o inhabitants were seen, but in e"ery %art where 6 landed, !ires had been made, and the woods o! 4a%e 4linton were then burningD the nati"es had also been u%on /ntrance 6sland, which im%lied them to ha"e canoes, although none were seen# There are angaroos in the woodsD haw s, and the bald&headed moc ing bird o! Port :ac son are commonD and duc s, sea&%ies, and gulls !re@uent the shoals at low water# Fish were more abundant here than in any %ort be!ore "isitedD those ta en in the seine at the watering beach were %rinci%ally mullet, but shar s and !lying !ish were numerous# The AlatitudeA o! the north&west end o! /ntrance 6sland, !rom an obser"ation ta en by lieutenant Flinders in an arti!icial horiJon, is 22 deg# 2E' 2EC south# A'ongitudeA !rom twel"e sets o! lunar distances by the same o!!icer, 1M, deg# -K' M-CD and by the time ee%ers, 1M, deg# -M' 2+CD but !rom the !i!ty sets which !iB Broad 5ound, and the reduction !rom thence by sur"ey, the more correct situation will be 1M, deg# -M' ,C east# A*i%A o! the south end o! the needle, M, deg# 2,'# AVariationA !rom aJimuths with the theodolite, K deg# -,' eastD but on the to% o! the island, where my bearings were ta en, the "ariation a%%eared to be E deg# 2,' eastD and E deg# in other %arts o! the %ort# The time o! high water, as near as it could be ascertained, was Aten hours a!terA the moon's %assage o"er and under the meridian, being hal! an hour later than in =e%%el BayD and the tide rises more than nine !eet, but how much was not nownD it is howe"er to be %resumed, !rom what was obser"ed to the south and to the north o! Port Bowen, that the s%ring

tides do not rise less than !i!teen !eet# T;/5*A$ 2- A;G;5T 1E,2 At daylight o! the 2-th, we steered out o! Port Bowen by the northern %assage, as we had gone in# The wind was !rom the westwardD but so light, that when the ebb tide made !rom the north&west at ten o'cloc , it was necessary to dro% the edge anchor !or a time# 6n the e"ening we came to, in 1, !athoms !ine grey sand, one mile and a hal! !rom the mainD being sheltered between <# /# by /# and /# by 5# by the same cluster o! small isles u%on which the %ine trees had been !irst seen# 6n the morning .G/*</5*A$ 2M A;G;5T 1E,23 we wor ed onward along the coast, against a breeJe at north&west, till ten o'cloc D when the tide being un!a"ourable, an anchor was dro%%ed in 1M !athoms, sand and shells, near three islets, o! which the middlemost and highest bore 5# 2I deg# /#, one mile( these were also a %art, and the most northern o! 9ar"ey's 6sles# A boat was lowered down, and 6 landed with the botanical gentlemen on the middle isletD where we !ound grass and a !ew shrubs, and also ants, grassho%%ers, and liJards# ;%on the roc s were oysters o! the small, crum%ly ind, which seemed to indicate that the sea here is not "iolently agitatedD and in the water we saw se"eral large turtle, but were not able to har%oon any o! them# 5e"eral o! the <orthumberland 6sles were in sight !rom the to% o! the islet, and the !ollowing obser"ations were ta en# 'atitude, obser"ed in arti!icial horiJon, 22 deg# 2,' -2C 'ongitude, deduced !rom sur"ey, 1M, -2 Pea ed 6slet in the o!!ing bore 5# 2M 2M /# 6sland 9ead, distant 2 miles, 5# E2 -M G# 4a%e Townshend, the roc near it, <# MK -M G# <orthumberland 6sle, the -th, a %ea , <# -2 2, G# Ghen the tide slac ed in the a!ternoon we stretched o"er towards 6sland 9ead, and saw a canoe with two 6ndians, who made !or the shore near a %lace where the woods were on !ire# At dus we anchored in 1E !athoms, so!t mud, in a bight between 6sland 9ead and 4a%e Townshend, at the bottom o! which was an o%ening one mile wide, where ca%tain 4oo had sus%ected an entrance into 5hoalwater Bay# The 'ady <elson had !allen to leeward, as usualD and not being come u% in the morning .T9;)5*A$ 2+ A;G;5T 1E,23, the master was sent ahead o! the shi% in a boat, and we steered !or the o%ening with a strong !lood tide in our !a"our# From 22 !athoms, the water shoaled to 12, and suddenly to 2, on a roc y bottom, just as we reached the entrance# A edge anchor was dro%%ed immediatelyD but seeing that the o%ening went through, and that the master had dee% water !urther in, it was weighed again, and we bac ed and !illed the sails, dri!ting u% with the tide so long as it continued to run# At nine o'cloc the anchor was let go in + !athoms, sand and shells, one mile within the entrance, the %oints o! which bore <# 2- deg# and 5# EI deg# /#D but the eBtent o! dee% water was barely su!!icient !or the shi% to swing at a whole cable# ./A5T 48A5T# 5T)8<G&T6*/ PA55AG/#3 >Atlas, Plate H6#? 'ieutenant Flinders landed on the north side o! the entrance, and obser"ed the latitude 22 deg# 1K' M2', !rom an arti!icial horiJonD and a boat was sent to haul the seine u%on a beach on the eastern shore, where !ish to gi"e hal! the shi%'s com%any a meal was %rocured# Ge had no %ros%ect

o! ad"ancing u% the %assage until the turn o! tide, at three in the a!ternoonD and 6 there!ore landed with a %arty o! the gentlemen, and ascended the highest o! the hills on the eastern side# From the to% o! it we could see o"er the land into Port BowenD and some water was "isible !urther distant at the bac o! it, which seemed to communicate with 5hoal&water Bay# 8! the %assage where the shi% was lying, there was an eBcellent "iewD and 6 saw not only that 4a%e Townshend was on a distinct island, but also that it was se%arated !rom a %iece o! land to the west, which ca%tain 4oo 's chart had le!t doubt!ul# Gishing to !ollow the a%%arent intention o! the disco"erer, to do honour to the noble !amily o! Townshend, 6 ha"e eBtended the name o! the ca%e to the larger island, and distinguish the western %iece by the name o! A'eicester 6slandA# Besides these, there were many smaller isles scattered in the entrance o! 5hoal&water BayD and the southernmost o! them, named AA en's 6slandA a!ter the master o! the shi%, lies in a bight o! the western shore# 8ut at sea there were more o! the <orthumberland 6slands, !urther westward than those be!ore seen, the largest being not less distant than !i!teen leaguesD Pier 9ead, on the west side o! Thirsty 5ound, was also "isibleD and in the o%%osite direction was the highest o! the two %ea s behind 4a%e Mani!old, the bearing o! which connected this station with Port 4urtis and =e%%el Bay# The "iew was, indeed, most eBtensi"e !rom this hillD and in com%liment to the landsca%e %ainter, who made a drawing !rom thence o! 5hoal&water Bay and the islands, 6 named it Mount Gestall#7 The bearings most essential to the connection o! the sur"ey, were theseD Pier 9ead, the northern eBtreme, <# +2 deg# -,' G# A en's 6sland in 5hoal&water Bay, <# E+ MM G# Pine Mount, on its west side, 5# E, -, G# *ouble Mount, 5# M+ 2M G# 4a%e Mani!old#, highest %ea behind it, 5# 2, 1, /# Gest&water 9ead in Port Bowen, 5# 2, 2M /# <orthern 9ar"ey's 6sles, last station, <# E1 2, /# 4a%e Townshend, north&east eBtreme, <# 2, 2M G# <orthumberland 6sles, the -th, a %ea , <# 2+ 2M G# .7 A %ainting was made o! this "iew, and is now in the AdmiraltyD but it has not been engra"ed !or the "oyage#3 Mount Gestall and the surrounding hills are stony, and o! stee% ascentD %ines grow in the gullies, and some !resh water was !ound there, standing in holes# The lower hills are co"ered with grass and trees, as is also the low land, though the soil be shallow and sandyD the wood is mostly Aeucaly%tusA# <o nati"es were seen during our wal , and only one angaroo# At dus in the e"ening, when we returned on board, 6 !ound the 'ady <elson at anchor near us, and two boats absent !rom the shi%# 6n hauling them u% to be hoisted in, the cutter had been u%set !rom the ra%idity o! the tides, which ran abo"e !our nots, the man in her was thrown out, and the boat went adri!t# The man was ta en u% by the 'ady <elsonD but the boatswain, who with two men in a small gig had gone a!ter the cutter, was not heard o! till neBt morning .F)6*A$ 2K A;G;5T 1E,23, when he returned without any intelligence o! his object, ha"ing been bewildered in the dar by the ra%id tides in a strange %lace, and in danger o! losing himsel!# ./A5T 48A5T# 598A'&GAT/) BA$#3

8n weighing the edge anchor to go !urther u% the %assage, it came u% bro en near the crown, ha"ing in all %robability hoo ed a roc # The 'ady <elson went one mile ahead, a boat was e%t sounding close to the shi%, and in this manner we dri!ted u% with the !lood tide, till hal! %ast eightD when another edge anchor was dro%%ed in K !athoms, a short mile !rom the land on each side, and two !rom the inner end o! the o%ening# 'ieutenant Fowler was immediately sent away in the whale boat, to search !or the lost cutterD and in the mean time we weighed with the a!ternoon's !lood, to get through the %assage# 8n a%%roaching a low, triangular island on the eastern shore, the de%th diminished @uic , and an anchor was let goD but in swinging to it, the shi% caught u%on a ban o! sand and shells where there was no more than twel"e !eet water# 6n hal! an hour the tide !loated her o!!D and the whale boat ha"ing returned, but without any in!ormation o! the cutter, it was e%t aheadD and be!ore dar we anchored in M !athoms, at the entrance o! 5hoalwater Bay# The o%ening through which we had come was named A5trong&tide PassageA# 6t is siB miles long, and !rom one to two broadD but hal! the width is ta en u% by shoals and roc s, which eBtend out !rom each shore and sometimes lie near the mid&channelD and the ra%id tides scarcely lea"e to a shi% the choice o! her course# The bottom is roc y in the outer entrance, but in the u%%er %art seems more generally to consist o! sand and shells# By the swinging o! the shi%, it was high water Aten hours a!terA the moon's %assage, and the rise was thirteen !eet by the leadD but at the to% o! the s%rings it is %robably two or three !eet greaterD and the rate at which the tides then run, will not be less than !i"e miles an hour# 6t will be %ercei"ed, that 6 do not recommend any shi% to enter 5hoal&water Bay by this %assage# 5AT;)*A$ 2E A;G;5T 1E,2 6n the morning, 6 went in the whale boat to the westward, both to search !or the lost cutter and to ad"ance the sur"ey# 6n crossing the inner end o! 5trong&tide Passage, my soundings were M, -, 2, 21L2, 2, 2 !athoms, to a roc near the south end o! Townshend 6sland, whence it a%%eared that the dee%est water was close to the 5hoals on the eastern side# A!ter searching along the shore o! Townshend 6sland#, and amongst the roc y islets near it, 6 crossed the western channel o"er to the south end o! 'eicester 6slandD where a set o! bearings was ta en, and the latitude obser"ed to be 22 deg# 1E' 1KC !rom an arti!icial horiJon# This channel is about one mile wide, and 6 %roceeded u% it until a %assage out to sea was clearly distinguishableD but although there be !rom - to K !athoms with a so!t bottom, the dee% %art is too narrow !or a stranger to %ass with a shi%# 6 returned on board in the e"ening, without ha"ing disco"ered any traces o! the lost cutter or seen any thing worthy o! %articular noticeD unless it were three o! the large bats, called !lying !oBes at Port :ac son( when on the wing and at a distance, these animals might be ta en !or crows# 5;<*A$ 2I A;G;5T 1E,2 8n the !ollowing morning, we got u% the anchor and steered !urther into 5hoal&water Bay# The land on the western side a%%eared to be highD and as the botanists were li ely to !ind more em%loyment there, during the time o! my %ro%osed eB%edition to the head o! the bay, than they could %romise themsel"es at any other %lace, 6 was desirous o! lea"ing the shi% on that side, in a situation con"enient !or them# A!ter running three miles to the westward, mostly in 2 !athoms, we anchored in +, till !our o'cloc ,

and then again weighed# The soundings became "ery irregularD and at !i"e, seeing a shoal which eBtended u% and down the middle o! the bay, we tac ed !rom it and came to, in M !athoms so!t bottom, it being then low water# Mount Gestall bore <# E+ deg# /# 'eicester 6sland, the south end, <# I G# Pine Mount, 5# KE G# The western land was still siB or se"en miles distant, but there was no %ros%ect o! getting nearer, without ta ing time to ma e a %re"ious eBamination o! the shoalD and 6 there!ore embar ed early neBt morning .M8<*A$ 2, A;G;5T 1E,23 on board the brig, and %roceeded towards the head o! the Bay# 5teering south&eastward, in a slanting course u% the bay !rom the middle shoal, we had !rom M to E !athomsD and %assed a shallow o%ening in the eastern low shore, !our miles abo"e 5trong&tide Passage# Three miles higher u% there was another o%ening, near two miles in widthD and the wind being then light and !oul, 6 @uitted the brig and %roceeded three miles u% in my boat, when the arm was !ound to be di"ided into two branches# Pursuing that which led eastward in a line !or Port Bowen, and was three&@uarters o! a mile wide, 6 carried a diminishing de%th, !rom + !athoms to siB !eet, abo"e two miles !urtherD and the branch then terminated at the !oot o! a ridge o! hills# 6 wished much to ascend this ridge, belie"ing that Gestwater 9ead in Port Bowen, lay close at the bac D but the shore was so de!ended by mud !lats and interwo"en mangro"es, that it was im%ossible to land# The other branch o! the eastern arm led south&eastward, and was a mile wide, with a de%th o! + !athoms as !ar as two miles abo"e the di"isionD it then se%arated into three, but the entrances were shallow and the borders e"ery where muddy and co"ered with mangro"es# 6 there!ore returned to the brig which had anchored at the entrance o! the branchD and in the night, we dro%%ed out o! the eastern arm with the tide, to be ready !or going u% the bay with the morning's !lood# T;/5*A$ 21 A;G;5T 1E,2 8n the 21st, in steering !or the middle o! the bay, the brig grounded u%on a s%it which runs out !rom the south %oint o! entrance to the eastern arm, and 6 belie"e eBtends so !ar down the bay as to join the middle shoal near the shi%# The bottom was muddy, and the rising tide soon !loated herD but our %rogress being slow, 6 went onward in the boat and got into a channel o! a mile wide, with regular soundings !rom + to !athoms# Abreast o! the eastern arm, the width o! the bay had diminished to about !our milesD and in ad"ancing u%wards, 6 !ound it to go on contracting until, at !our miles abo"e the arm, the shores were less than one mile asunder, and the head o! the bay assumed the !orm o! a ri"er, though the water remained @uite salt# The de%th here was !rom - to + !athomsD and the east side o! the contracted %art being a little ele"ated, 6 was able to land and ta e a set o! angles to !iB its %osition# The width and de%th continued nearly the same two miles higher u%, to a woody islet in the middle o! the channelD where the latitude 22 deg# 2K' +C was obser"ed !rom an arti!icial horiJon, and more bearings ta en# A shi% may get u% as high as this islet, !or the channel is no where less

than hal! a mile wide, nor the de%th in it under 2 !athomsD but there the stream di"ides into se"eral branches, which a%%eared to terminate amongst the mangro"es, similar to the branches o! the eastern arm# The largest runs 5# 5# /D and 6 could see three or !our miles u% it, near to the !oot o! the hills behind 4a%e Mani!old, where it %robably ends, as did the southern arm o! Port Bowen# The islet had been "isited by 6ndians, and se"eral trees u%on it were notched, similar to what is done by the %eo%le o! Port :ac son when they ascend in %ursuit o! o%ossums# ;%on the main, to the west o! the islet, where 6 wal ed a mile inland, !ire Places and other signs o! inhabitants were numerous, and still more so were those o! the angarooD yet neither that animal nor an 6ndian was seen# Around the eBtinguished !ires were scattered the bones o! turtle, and the shells o! crabs, %eriwin les, and oysters o! the small indD and in the low grounds 6 obser"ed many holes, made a%%arently by the nati"es in digging !or !ern roots# An iguana o! between two and three !eet long, which lay u%on the branch o! a high tree watching !or its %rey, was the sole animal illedD but the mud ban s are !re@uented at low water by sea %ies o! both inds, curlews, and small cranes# The soil was sti!!, shallow, and o!ten stonyD the "egetation consisted o! two or three s%ecies o! Aeucaly%tusA and the AcasuarinaA, not thic ly set nor large&&o! se"eral inds o! shrubs, amongst which a small grass&tree was abundant&&and o! grass, with which the rest o! the soil was thinly o"ers%read# A!ter ma ing my obser"ations, 6 rejoined the 'ady <elson two miles below the woody isletD but the wind blowing !resh u% the bay, and the brig being leewardly, went on and with some di!!iculty landed on the west side, o%%osite to the entrance o! the eastern arm# This %art is stonyD but e@ually low with the rest o! the shores, and is %robably an island at high water# A con!ined set o! bearings was ta en hereD and the sun being then nearly down and the brig at anchor, 6 went on board !or the night# <eBt a!ternoon .G/*</5*A$ 1 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23, when the ebb tide enabled the "essel to ma e %rogress against the strong north&west wind, we beat down in a channel o! between one and two miles wide, with soundings !rom 2 to E !athomsD but they were not regular, !or the de%th was less in some %arts o! the middle than at the sides o! the channel# The wind moderated in the e"eningD and being then within three miles o! the shi%, 6 @uitted the brig, and got on board at sunset# 8ne object o! my research in this eB%edition had been the lost cutter, and orders had been le!t with lieutenant Fowler to send again into 5trong&tide Passage u%on the same errand, but all was without success# *uring my absence, the naturalist and other gentlemen had gone o"er in the launch to the west side o! the bay, where they had an inter"iew with siBteen nati"esD their a%%earance was described as being much in!erior to the inhabitants o! =e%%el and 9er"ey's Bays, but they were %eaceable, and seemed to be "ery hungry# They had bar canoes which, though not so well !ormed, were better secured at the ends than those o! Port :ac sonD and in them were s%ears neatly %ointed with %ieces o! @uartJ, !or stri ing turtle# The number o! bones lying about their !ire %laces bes%o e turtle to be their %rinci%al !oodD and with the addition o! shell !ish, and %erha%s !ern roots, it is %robably their sole su%%ort# The same muddy !lats which rendered landing so di!!icult in the u%%er %arts o! the bay, run o!! to some distance !rom the shore under A*ouble

MountAD and the land is low !or two or three miles bac # The hills then rise, ridge o"er ridge to a considerable ele"ationD and at the to% are se"eral hummoc s, o! which two, higher than the rest, obtained !or this high land its %resent name# 5o !ar as the gentlemen were able to ascend, the hills were !ound to be tolerably well co"ered with %ines and other treesD and the soil o! the "allies was better than in those near Mount Gestall on the o%%osite side o! the bay# T9;)5*A$ 2 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 /arly on the 2nd the brig rejoinedD and the wind being at 5# by /#, we steered across towards Pine Mount, %assing o"er the shoal in siBteen !eet# 6n crossing the middle channel, our soundings increased to I, and then diminished to less than 2 !athoms u%on a second shoal, the width o! the channel here being not @uite three miles# 8n the west side o! the second shoal is another channel, nearly as wide as the !ormerD and the greatest de%th in it, reduced to low water as usual, was E !athoms# The water shoaled again suddenly on a%%roaching the west side o! the bay, and obliged us to "eer round o!!D we then steered to %ass within A en's 6sland, intending to anchor in the Gest Bight behind itD but the de%th not being su!!icient !or the shi% at low water, we came to in - !athoms, muddy bottom, one mile !rom the shore and two !rom A en's 6sland, the east end o! which bore <# 2K deg# G# Pine Mount is a single round hill with a high %ea ed to%, standing about two miles inland !rom the Gest BightD and to obtain a set o! bearings !rom it which should cross those !rom Mount Gestall, had induced me to anchor hereD but !inding my health too much im%aired by !atigue to accom%lish a laborious wal , 6 sent the launch neBt morning .F)6*A$ 2 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 with the scienti!ic gentlemen, and as an easier tas , landed u%on A en's 6sland and too angles !rom the little eminence at its north&east end# At e"ery %ort or bay we entered, more es%ecially a!ter %assing 4a%e 4a%ricorn, my !irst object on landing was to eBamine the re!use thrown u% by the sea# The French na"igator, 'a Perouse, whose un!ortunate situation, i! in eBistence, was always %resent to my mind, had been wrec ed, as it was thought, somewhere in the neighbourhood o! <ew 4aledoniaD and i! so, the remnants o! his shi%s were li ely to be brought u%on this coast by the trade winds, and might indicate the situation o! the ree! or island which had %ro"ed !atal to him# Gith such an indication, 6 was led to belie"e in the %ossibility o! !inding the %laceD and though the ho%e o! restoring 'a Perouse or any o! his com%anions to their country and !riends could not, a!ter so many years, be rationally entertained, yet to gain some certain nowledge o! their !ate would do away the %ain o! sus%enseD and it might not be too late to retrie"e some documents o! their disco"eries# ;%on the south&east side o! A en's 6sland, there was thrown u% a con!used mass o! di!!erent substancesD including a @uantity o! %umice stone, se"eral inds o! coral, !i"e or siB s%ecies o! shells, s eletons o! !ish and sea sna es, the !ruit o! the %andanus, and a %iece o! cocoa&nut shell without bernacles or any thing to indicate that it had been long in the waterD but there were no mar s o! shi%wrec # A seine was hauled u%on the small beaches at the south end o! the island, and brought on shore a good @uantity o! mullet, and o! a !ish resembling a ca"allyD also a ind o! horse mac erel, small !ish o! the herring ind, and once a sword !ish o! between !our and !i"e !eet long# The %rojection o! the snout, or sword o! this animal, a !oot and a hal! in length, was !ringed with strong, shar%

teethD and he threw it !rom side to side in such a !urious way, that it was di!!icult to manage him e"en on shore# A boat was sent in the e"ening to the !oot o! Pine Mount, !or the naturalist and his %arty, but returned without any tidings o! themD and it was noon neBt day .5AT;)*A$ - 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 be!ore they got on board# They had reached the to% o! the mount, but were disa%%ointed in the "iew by the %ines and underwood# 6n returning to the boat, a chase a!ter a angaroo had led one o! the gentlemen out o! his rec oningD and this, with the labour o! bringing down their %riJe, had %re"ented them !rom reaching the water side that night# Pine Mount is stony, but co"ered with large trees o! the ind denoted by its e%ithetD the country between it and the water side is grassy, bears timber trees, and is o! a tolerably good soil, such as might be culti"ated# There are small cree s o! salt water in the low landD and in one o! them a !ish was shot which !urnished the %arty with a dinner# Pine Mount is com%osed o! the AgreenstoneA o! the German mineralogistsD but in some other %arts o! the neighbourhood the stone seems to be di!!erent, and contains small "eins o! @uartJ, %ieces o! which are also scattered o"er the sur!ace# At A en's 6sland there was some "ariety# The most common ind was a slate, containing in some %laces "eins o! @uartJ, in a state nearly a%%roaching to crystalliJation, and in others some metallic substance, %robably iron# The basis o! most other %arts o! the island was AgreenstoneAD but in the eastern cli!!s there was a so!t, whitish earthD and on the north&west side o! the island, a %art o! the shore consisted o! water&worn grains and small lum%s o! @uartJ, o! coral, %umice stone, and other substances jumbled together, and concreted into a solid mass# 5%ea ing in general terms o! 5hoal&water Bay, 6 do not concei"e it to o!!er any ad"antages to shi%s which may not be had u%on almost any other %art o! the coastD eBce%t that the tides rise higher, and in the winter season !ish are more %lenti!ul than !urther to the south# <o !resh water was !ound, unless at a distance !rom the shore, and then only in small @uantities# Pine trees are %lenti!ulD but they grow u%on the stony hills at a distance !rom the water side, and cannot be %rocured with any thing li e the !acility o!!ered by Port Bowen# The chart contains the best in!ormation 6 am able to gi"e o! the channels leading u% the bay, and o! the shoals between themD but it may be added, that no alarm need be eBcited by a shi% getting aground, !or these ban s are too so!t to do injury# The shel"ing !lats !rom the shores are also so!tD and with the mangro"es, which s%read themsel"es !rom high water at the nea%s, u% in the country to the !urthest reach o! the s%ring tides, in some %laces !or miles, render landing im%ossible in the u%%er %arts o! the bay, eBce%t at some !ew s%ots already noticed# Gere an /nglish settlement to be made in 5hoal&water Bay, the better soil round Pine Mount and the less di!!iculty in landing there, would cause that neighbourhood to be %re!erred# There is not a su!!icient de%th at low water, !or shi%s to go into the Gest Bight, by the south side o! A en's 6sland, and the north side was no otherwise sounded than in %assingD but there is little doubt that the de%th on the north side is ade@uate to admit shi%s, and that some %arts o! the bight will a!!ord anchorage and good shelter# The tides do not run strong in 5hoal&water Bay, the rate seldom eBceeding one notD but they stir u% the so!t mud at the bottom#, and ma e the water thic , as in =e%%el Bay# 6 am not able to s%ea "ery accurately o!

the rise in the tideD but it may be rec oned at twel"e or !ourteen !eet at the nea%s, and !rom se"enteen to eighteen at the s%rings# 9igh water ta es %lace about Aten hours and a hal! a!terA the moon's %assageD but on the east side o! the bay, the !lood runs u% a !ull hour later# The AlatitudeA o! the north&east end o! A en's 6sland, !rom an obser"ation in the arti!icial horiJon, is 22 deg# 21' 2MC south# A'ongitudeA !rom twel"e sets o! distances o! the sun and moon, ta en by lieutenant Flinders, and reduced to the same %lace, 1M, deg# 1E' -MCD but !rom the sur"ey, and the %osition a!terwards !iBed in Broad 5ound, it is %re!erably 1M, deg# 1M' ,C east# AVariationA !rom aJimuths ta en with a theodolite at the same %lace, I deg# -E'D but the bearings on the to% o! the eminence showed it to be I deg# ,'# The "ariation on shore, on the AwestA side o! the bay, may there!ore be ta en at I deg# 2-' east# ;%on Mount Gestall on the east side, and at the south end o! 'eicester 6sland, it was !rom the bearings E deg# M,'# ;%on the small islet at the head o! the bay, I deg# 2M'# At our anchorage on the west side o! the bay, Mr# Flinders too aJimuths when the shi%'s head was 5# /# by /#, which ga"e + deg# 21' by one com%assD be!ore he had done, the shi% swung to the !lood tide with her head G# <# G#, and two other com%asses then ga"e 11 deg# 2K' and 11 deg# -'( the mean corrected to the meridian, will be E deg# -+' east# At an anchorage towards the east side o! the bay, the same o!!icer obser"ed the "ariation with two com%asses, when the head was east, to be - deg# -I', or corrected, K deg# 21' east# The di!!erence in 5trong&tide Passage, where the land was one mile to the south&south&east on one side, and the same to the west on the other, was still more remar ableD !or when the head was <# /# by <#, an am%litude ga"e me I deg# 1,', or corrected, 1, deg# 2-' east# There might ha"e been an error in any o! the shi% obser"ations o! hal! a degreeD but 6 am %ersuaded that the attraction o! the land, sometimes to the east and sometimes west, as the shi% was near one or the other side o! the bay, was the great cause o! the di!!erence in the corrected resultsD and it will %resently be seen, that the e!!ect on a neighbouring %art o! the coast was much more considerable# 49APT/) 666# *e%arture !rom 5hoal&water Bay, and anchorage in Thirsty 5ound# Magnetical obser"ations# Boat eBcursion to the nearest <orthumberland 6slands# )emar s on Thirsty 5ound# 8bser"ations at Gest 9ill, Broad 5ound# Anchorage near ;%%er 9ead# /B%edition to the head o! Broad 5ound( another round 'ong 6sland# )emar s on Broad 5ound, and the surrounding country# Ad"antages !or a colony# Astronomical obser"ations, and remar s on the high tides# ./A5T 48A5T# T96)5T$ 58;<*#3

5AT;)*A$ - 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 At noon 5e%tember -, when the botanical gentlemen returned !rom their eBcursion to Pine Mount, we made sail out o! 5hoal&water Bay with a breeJe !rom the eastward# 6n steering north&west amongst the small islands, the soundings were between I and 1- !athomsD and nearly the same a!terwards, in ee%ing at three or !our miles !rom the coast# 6 intended to go into Thirsty 5oundD but not reaching it be!ore dar , the anchor was dro%%ed in E !athoms, sandy bottom, when the to% o! Pier 9ead bore west, three miles# 6n the morning .5;<*A$ M 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 we ran into the 5ound, and anchored in + !athoms, with the %oints o! entrance bearing <# 1+ deg# and 5# +K deg# /#, one mile# The car%enters had !or some time been em%loyed in ma ing a sliding eel !or the 'ady <elson, !rom the %ine logs cut in Port BowenD and being now !inished, it was sent on board# The botanists landed u%on the east shore, %re!erring the main land !or their %ursuitsD and the launch was sent to haul the seine on that side, at a beach a little way u% the 5ound# 6 went to the to% o! Pier 9ead and too bearings o! the <orthumberland 6slands, as also o! the %oints and hills o! the coast to the east and westD the most essential o! them to the conneBion o! the sur"ey, were as under( Mount Gestall, station on the to%, 5# +2 deg# 2,' /# A en's 6sland, station on the <# /# end, 5# -2 1, /# Pine Mount, 5# 2M M /# 'ong 6sland, the north %oint, distant E miles, <# +M M G# Pea ed 9ill, west side o! Broad 5ound, <# +1 2M G# <orthumberland 6#, a %ea , mar ed h, <# 22 2M G# <orthumberland 6#, <o# 2 %ea >o! Percy 6sles?, <# 2, 1, /# 4a%tain 4oo obser"ed, when ta ing bearings u%on the to% o! Pier 9ead, Cthat the needle di!!ered "ery considerably in its %osition, e"en to thirty degrees, in some %laces more, in others lessD and once he !ound it di!!er !rom itsel! no less than two %oints in the distance o! !ourteen !eet#C >9aw esworth, 666, 12+?D !rom whence he concluded there was iron ore in the hills# 6 determined, in conse@uence, to ma e more %articular obser"ations, both with the theodolite and di%%ing needleD and shall brie!ly state the results obtained on this, and on the !ollowing day# AJimuths were ta en, and the bearing o! Mount Gestall, distant thirty&!our miles, was set at 5# +2 deg# 2E' /# >true?, whilst the theodolite remained in the same %laceD and !rom a com%arison between this bearing and those o! the same object at di!!erent %arts o! the head, the "ariations were deduced# The di% was obser"ed with both ends o! the needle, and the !ace o! the instrument changed each time# At the highest to% o! Pier 9ead, Var# 2 deg# 2M' /# *i% M2 deg# 2,' 5# Gest, three yards !rom it, + 1, 5# /# three yards, 1, M 5# 5# /#, ten yards, E + M2 1I <orth, !our, + MM <# /#, twenty, + M, M, 2M <# <# /#, one&siBth mile, at the water side, K + M, 2E 5# /#, one&third mile, at ditto, E 2 M, M, There are here no di!!erences e@ual to those !ound by ca%tain 4oo D but it is to be obser"ed, that he used a shi%'s aJimuth com%ass, %robably not raised !urther !rom the ground than to be %laced on a stone, whereas my

theodolite stood u%on legs, more than !our !eet high# The di%%ing needle was raised about two !eetD and by its greater inclination at the to% o! the hill, shows the %rinci%al attraction to ha"e been not !ar !rom thence# The least di%, M, deg# 2E', ta en at the shore on the north side o! the head, was doubtless the least a!!ectedD but it a%%ears to ha"e been hal! a degree too much, !or at Port Bowen, twenty&two miles !urther south, it was no more than M, deg# 2,'# An am%litude ta en on board the shi% in the 5ound by lieutenant Flinders, when the head was 5# 5# G#, ga"e "ariation E deg# 2I', or corrected to the meridian, K deg# -,' east# As Pier 9ead lay almost eBactly in the meridian, !rom the shi%, its magnetism would not alter the direction o! the needleD and 6 there!ore consider K deg# -,' to be "ery nearly the true "ariation, when una!!ected by local causes( in Port Bowen, it "aried !rom K deg# -,' to E deg# 2,' east# <otwithstanding this "ery sensible e!!ect u%on the needle, both horiJontally and "ertically, 6 did not !ind, any more than ca%tain 4oo , that a %iece o! the stone a%%lied to the theodolite drew the needle at all out o! its directionD ne"ertheless 6 am induced to thin , that the attraction was rather dis%ersed throughout the mass o! stone com%osing Pier 9ead, than that any mine o! iron ore eBists in it# The stone is a %or%hyry o! a dar , blueish colour# M8<*A$ + 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 8n the +th, at noon, when the obser"ations were !inished and 6 had %ro%osed to @uit Thirsty 5ound, the wind and tide were both against us# To em%loy the rest o! the day use!ully, 6 went o"er in the whale boat, accom%anied by the landsca%e %ainter, to the +th, Kth, and Eth <orthumberland 6slands, which, with many low islets and roc s near them, !orm a cluster three or !our leagues to the north&east o! the 5ound# 8rders were le!t with lieutenant Fowler to get the shi% under way as early as %ossible on the !ollowing morning, and come out to meet us# <early mid&way between Pier 9ead and the cluster, lie some roc s surrounded with brea ersD and until they were %assed the de%th was !rom + to E !athoms, and 11 a!terwards# Ge rowed to a beach at the north&west end o! the Kth island, %ro%osing there to %ass the night, and ho%ed to turn some turtleD but %roo!s o! nati"es ha"ing lately "isited, or being %erha%s then on the island, dam%ed our %ros%ects, and still more did the absence o! turtle trac sD yet under each tree near the shore were the remains o! a turtle !east# T;/5*A$ K 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning 6 ascended the highest hill on the Kth island, and too bearingsD but the haJy weather which had come on with a strong wind at /# 5# /#, con!ined them within a circle o! three leagues# This island is somewhat more than a mile in length, and was co"ered with grass, but almost destitute o! woodD the roc is a greenish, s%ec led stone, with "eins o! @uartJ !inely inserted, and is something between granite and %or%hyry# The +th island is the largest o! this little cluster, being two and a hal! miles longD and it was well co"ered with wood# Ge rowed o"er to it with some di!!iculty on account o! the wind, but could not sound in the channelD it a%%eared to be dee%, its least width three&@uarters o! a mile, and in !ine weather a shi% might anchor there and %rocure %ines !it !or to% masts, at se"eral %laces in the grou%# Gater was !ound under the hills on the +th islandD but not in su!!icient @uantities !or the %ur%ose o! a shi%#

6 loo ed anBiously, but in "ain, !or lieutenant Fowler to come out o! Thirsty 5oundD !or the wind blew so strong that it was uncertain whether the boat could !etch o"er, or that it was e"en sa!e to attem%t itD our %ro"isions, besides, were nearly eBhausted, and nothing more substantial than oysters could be %rocured# Pressed by necessity, we set o!! under close&ree!ed sailsD and the boat %er!orming admirably, !etched the low nec to leeward o! Pier 9ead, whence another boat too us to the shi%D and at high water in the e"ening, the whale boat !loated o"er the nec and !ollowed# Ghen Mr# Fowler had weighed in the morning, according to my directions, the shi% had dri"en so near the shore be!ore the stream anchor was at the bows, that he let go the small bowerD but the cable %arted, and obliged him to dro% the best bower, being then in 2 !athoms water with the wind blowing strong into the sound# By means o! a war% to the brig, the best bower was shi!ted into - !athomsD and when 6 got on board, the stream and small bower anchors had just been reco"ered# The weather tide made at nine in the e"ening, and we ran into K !athoms in the channelD and at daylight stood out o! the sound, with the brig in com%any, ha"ing then a moderate breeJe at south&east# 8! Thirsty 5ound as a harbour, "ery little can be said in %raiseD the north&east and east winds throw in a good deal o! sea, and there is not room !or more than three or !our shi%s, without running u% into the narrow %artD and what the de%th may be there 6 did not eBamine, but saw that there were shoals# The entrance o! the sound may be nown by two round hills, one on each side, lying nearly north and south, one mile and a hal! !rom each other( the northernmost is Pier 9ead# The surrounding country is clothed with grass and woodD but on the 'ong&6sland side the grass is coarse, the trees are thinly scattered, and the soil is e"ery where too stony !or the culti"ation o! grain# There were many traces o! nati"es, though none recent# :udging !rom what was seen round the !ire %laces, turtle would seem to be their %rinci%al !oodD and indeed se"eral turtle were seen in the water, but we had not deBterity enough to ta e any o! them# 6n !ishing with the seine, at a small beach two miles u% the sound, we always had tolerably good successD but no !resh water accessible to boats could be !ound in the neighbourhood# The AlatitudeA o! Pier 9ead, !rom an obser"ation made at the to% in an arti!icial horiJon, is 22 deg# +' M2C 5# A'ongitudeA !rom thirteen sets o! distances o! the sun west o! the moon, obser"ed by lieutenant Flinders, 1-I deg# -K' M,CD but by the sur"ey and the !iBed %osition in Broad 5ound, with which the time& ee%ers agreed, it will be more correctly 1M, deg# ,' 1,C /# 4a%tain 4oo s%eci!ies the situation o! Thirsty 5ound to be in latitude 22 deg# 1,', longitude 1-I deg# -2' >9aw esworth, 666, 12E?D but in the chart %ublished by Mr# *alrym%le, it is 22 deg# K' and 1-I deg# 2+', which agrees nearer with the deductions o! Mr# Gales >AAstron# 8bs#A %# 12M?# 6n either case it a%%ears, that my longitude was getting more eastward !rom ca%tain 4oo as we ad"anced !urther along the coast# G/*</5*A$ E 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 The tides in Thirsty 5ound were nea%ed at this time, and the rise, judging by the lead line, was !rom ten to twel"e !eetD but ca%tain 4oo

says, Cat s%ring tides the water does not rise less than siBteen or eighteen !eet,C which 6 ha"e no doubt is correct# 6t ceases at Aten hours and three @uarters a!terA the moon %asses o"er and under the meridian# 8n @uitting Thirsty 5ound we steered north&westward, to %ass round a chain o! roc s eBtending siB miles out !rom Pier 9ead, and behind which there was a bight in 'ong 6sland, with some a%%earance o! an o%ening# 6t was my intention to eBamine Broad 5ound u% to the !urthest na"igable %art, and we hauled u% between the north %oint o! 'ong 6sland and a cluster o! small isles lying three miles to the north&westD but !inding the water too shallow, and that it would be more ad"antageous to begin the eBamination on the west side, 6 desired Mr# Murray to lead round the A<orth&%oint 6slesA and across the sound# A small ree! lies between !our and !i"e miles <# /# by /# !rom the largest and easternmost o! these islesD it is co"ered at hal! tide, and there!ore dangerous, but we had K to E !athoms at less than a mile distance, on the inside# At noon, the de%th was E !athoms, the largest <orth&%oint 6sle, which is nearly se%arated into two, was distant !our miles, and our situation was as under( 'atitude obser"ed to the north, 21 deg# M+' 1KC Pier 9ead to%, bore 5# 2E /# <orthumberland 6sland, %ea mar ed 'h', <# 1M G# <orth&%oint 6#, westernmost, highest %art, 5# M+ G# <orth&%oint 6#, largest, 5# 2K to 1+ G# 6n steering G# by <#, ri%%ling water was seen ahead at one o'cloc # and the de%th diminishing to - !athoms, we hauled a little to the southward and then resumed our course# This ri%%ling seems to ha"e been on a %art o! the same shoal near which ca%tain 4oo anchored in 2 !athomsD !or it lies !i"e miles !rom the <orth&%oint 6sles, and as he says, Chal! way between them and three small islands which lie directly without them#C ./A5T 48A5T# B)8A* 58;<*#3 8ur course !or the west side o! Broad 5ound %assed close to some low, !lat isles, lying to the south&east o! the %ea ed Gest 9ill set !rom Pier 9ead# At dus 6 sought to anchor behind the hill, !or it had the a%%earance o! being se%arated !rom the main landD but the water being too shallow, we hauled o!! u%on a wind# At ten o'cloc , howe"er, the breeJe ha"ing become light and the sea gone down, an anchor was dro%%ed in M !athoms, sandy bottomD whence the to% o! Gest 9ill bore <# +E deg# G# three miles# A !lood tide was !ound running !rom the <# <# /#, one mile and a @uarter %er hour# T9;)5*A$ I 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning 6 landed with the botanical gentlemen, and wished to ascend the to% o! the hillD but the brush wood was too thic to be %enetrable# ;%on a %rojecting head on the north&east side, 6 too a %art, and about hal! way u% the hill on the south&east side, the remainder o! a set o! bearings, which included many o! the <orthumberland 6sles not be!ore seen, and other o! the Flat 6sles within Broad 5ound# The !urthest "isible %art o! the main land towards 4a%e Palmerston, was distant about !i"e leagues, and behind it was a hill to which, !rom its !orm, 6 ga"e the name o! AMount FunnelAD the shore both to the north and south was

low, and the Flat 6sles to the southward o! the shi% were mostly o"er&run with mangro"es# 6 did not go round Gest 9ill, and could not see whether it were connected with the main land, or notD but i! joined, it must be by a "ery low isthmus# The bearings at this station, most essential to the connection o! the sur"ey, were these( Main coast, the eBtremes, <# 1 deg# and 5# 1, deg# -M' /# Pier 9ead, the to%, 5# +1 2M /# <orthumberland 6sles, %ea mar ed 'h', <# +1 -M /# <orthumberland 6sles, high northmost mar ed 'i', dist# 11 '# <# 1I 1M /# The stone o! the hill had in it s%ec s o! @uartJ or !eldts%ath, and was not much unli e that o! Pier 9eadD but it had a more basaltic a%%earance# A %iece o! it a%%lied to the theodolite, drew the needle two degrees out o! its direction, and yet the bearings did not show any great di!!erence !rom the true "ariationD !or an am%litude ta en on board the shi% by Mr# Flinders, when the head was <# <# /, ga"e + deg# 1E', or corrected to the meridian, K deg# 1K' east, and the "ariation on the eastern side o! the hill was E deg# 1M', according to the bac bearing o! Pier 9ead# From an obser"ation o! the sun's u%%er and lower limbs in an arti!icial horiJon, the latitude was 21 deg# M,' 1EC, and the shi% bore !rom thence 5# +E deg# /# two miles and a hal!D the latitude o! the shi% should there!ore ha"e been 21 deg# M1' 1-CD but a meridian altitude obser"ed to the north by lieutenant Flinders, ga"e 21 deg# -I' M-CD and 6 belie"e that altitudes !rom the sea horiJon can ne"er be de%ended on nearer than to one minute, on account o! the "ariability o! the horiJontal re!raction# From this cause it was that, when %ossible, we commonly obser"ed the latitude on board the shi% both to the north and south, ta ing the sun's altitude one way and his su%%lement the other, and the mean o! the two results was considered to be trueD se%arately, they o!ten di!!ered 1', 2', and e"en 2', and sometimes they agreed# The obser"ation to the north most commonly ga"e the least south latitude, but not always, nor was there any regular coincidence between the results and the heights o! the barometer or thermometerD though in general, the more haJy the weather, the greater were the di!!erences# At this time, the wind was light !rom the eastward and weather haJyD the thermometer stood at K2 deg#, and barometer at 2,#1M inches# At two o'cloc we got under way to go u% Broad 5ound, it being then near low water# A!ter steering south&east one mile, the de%th ra%idly diminished and we tac edD but the shi% was set u%on a ban o! sand, where she hung !i"e minutes and then swung o!!# 6 a!terwards steered nearer to the shore, in dee%er waterD and at dus the anchor was dro%%ed in M !athoms, sandy bottom, between the Flat 6sles and the main, Gest 9ill bearing <# 2M deg# G# three leaguesD the master sounded towards the coast, which was !i"e miles o!!, and !ound the dee%est water to be on that side# 6n the morning .F)6*A$ 1, 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 the wind had shi!ted to south, and we beat u% in a channel !ormed by the Flat 6sles and the shoals attached to them, on one side, and the shel"ing ban s !rom the main coast, on the other# Ge had the assistance o! a strong !lood tide till ele"en o'cloc D at which time the anchor was let go, one mile !rom the north end o! the -th Flat 6sland#

6 landed immediately, with the botanistsD and at the south&east end o! the island, which is a little ele"ated, too bearings and the meridian altitude o! both limbs o! the sun !rom an arti!icial horiJon# The latitude deduced was 22 deg# E' 22CD and the shi% bearing <# 1I deg# 2,' G#, two miles, it should ha"e been !or her, 22 deg# +' -,CD but lieutenant Flinders' obser"ation to the north ga"e 22 deg# M' 1IC, or 1' 21C less, nearly as on the %receding dayD and it was ascertained that the di!!erence arose neither !rom the eye nor the instrument# Amongst the bearings were, Gest 9ill, the to%, <# 1+ deg# -,' G# <orthumberland 6sles# the %ea mar ed 'h', <# 2M 1M /# 'ong 6sland, eBtreme o! the north %oint, <# K2 2M /# ;%%er 9ead, on the west shore u% Broad 5ound, 5# 2I MM /# The -th Flat 6sle is about one mile long, and there is a smaller lying o!! its south&east endD they are a little ele"ated, and bear grass and small treesD but the shores are co"ered with mangro"es, and surrounded with eBtensi"e !lats o! mud and sand# The main coast, !rom which they lie two or three miles, is also low, with mangro"es and shel"ing mud ban sD but there is a dee% channel between, o! a mile in width# 6n the e"ening, when the !lood made, we steered into this channel with a light sea&breeJeD but not ha"ing time to clear it be!ore dar , the anchor was dro%%ed in - !athoms at siB o'cloc # My attention was attracted this e"ening by the "ast eBtent o! mud le!t dry on each side o! the channel, and 6 ordered %articular attention to be %aid to the tides during the night# At ele"en o'cloc , when the !lood had ceased running, the de%th was sounded and the lead line measured, and the same at hal! %ast !i"e in the morning .5AT;)*A$ 11 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 when it was low waterD the di!!erence was no less than thirty&two !eet, and it wanted a day o! being !ull moonD so that the s%rings may reach two or three !eet higher# The !lood set 5# by /#, but its greatest rate did not eBceed one mile and three @uarters an hour# At daylight the wind was south&east, directly against us# Ge bac ed and !illed, dri!ting u% with the !lood between the shoals on each side, and ha"ing the 'ady <elson and a boat aheadD but on a%%roaching the end o! the channel, our %assage into the sound was bloc ed u% by a ban running across, u%on which there was not water enough !or the shi% by a !athom, and we there!ore anchored# At nine the tide had risen a !athom# and we %assed o"er into the o%en soundD the de%th immediately increasing to and K !athoms, reduced to low water# 5o long as the !lood continued running we wor ed u% the soundD and when it ceased, anchored three miles !rom a shallow o%ening in the low western shore, the second which had been obser"ed# Ge again %roceeded u%wards with the e"ening's tide until dus D and at nine neBt morning .5;<*A$ 12 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 %assed a !i!th o%ening, and anchored abreast o! the hilly %rojection on its east side, which 6 ha"e named A;%%er 9eadA, in - !athoms, so!t bottom, two&thirds o! a mile !rom the shore# This was the !irst %lace on the main where there was any %ros%ect o! being able to landD !or the western shore, thus !ar u%, was e@ually low, and as much o"er&run with mangro"es and de!ended by muddy !lats, as the shores o! =e%%el Bay# 6t being my intention to eB%lore the head o! Broad 5ound with the brig and whale boat, a situation where tents could be !iBed and an easy communication held with the shi% during my absence, was the object now soughtD and 6 immediately went with a %arty o! the gentlemen, to ascertain how !ar ;%%er 9ead was calculated !or our %ur%ose# Ge landed at

hal! !lood, without di!!icultyD and on ascending the hill, obtained a "iew o! the 5ound which eBceeded my eB%ectations# Amongst the many bearings ta en, were the !ollowing !iBed %oints in the sur"ey# Pine Mount, o! 5hoal&water Bay, 5# E- deg# 2E' /# Pier 9ead, the western %art, <# 2+ K /# Gest hill, the to%, <# 2E M G# Flat 6sles, the -th, station there, <# 2I M2 G# The breadth o! the 5ound, !rom ;%%er 9ead o"er to the inner end o! 'ong 6sland, a%%eared to be three leagues, but it contracted u%wards, and assumed the same ri"er&li e !orm as 5hoalwater BayD and it was to be !eared, !rom the mangro"e shores and muddiness o! the water, that it would terminate in the same manner# <o shoals could be then distinguishedD but towards low water in the e"ening 6 again ascended the hill, and saw to my regret, that the u%%er %arts were mostly occu%ied with ban s o! mud and sand, many o! which were dry, and eBtended downward %ast the inner entrance o! Thirsty 5ound# Amongst the ban s were "arious channelsD but that o! about two miles wide where the shi% lay, was by !ar the most considerable# The small !i!th o%ening, close on the west side o! ;%%er 9ead, ran some miles in the low land towards the !oot o! a ridge o! hills, lying three or !our leagues at the bac o! the shoreD but the greater %art o! this inlet was also ta en u% by mud ban s, and the borders co"ered with mangro"es# There was no !resh water at ;%%er 9ead, nor did 6 see any %ros%ect o! obtaining wherewith to com%lete the holds o! the two "essels be!ore lea"ing the coastD unless it were at a %lace a little higher u% on the same side, to which the a%%earance o! another o%ening between two hills, induced me to mo"e the shi%# M8<*A$ 12 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning, when the !lood made, we dri!ted u%wards, with the 'ady <elson and a boat sounding ahead# A!ter ad"ancing three miles the brig suddenly too the ground, and we dro%%ed a stream anchorD but in swinging to it, the shi% was caught u%on a ban o! @uic sand in ele"en !eetD and the tide running strong u%on the broad side, it made her heel in a manner to eBcite alarm# The sails were immediately clewed down, and the to%&gallant yards struc D and it a%%earing that the stream anchor allowed the shi% to dri"e !urther u% the ban as the tide rose, the best bower was let go, and then she righted and swung to the tide# The 'ady <elson also got o!! sa!eD but a %art o! the a!ter sliding eel was carried away# 6 went in a boat to eBamine the %lace which had %resented the a%%earance o! an o%eningD but it %ro"ed to be only a bending in the shore, and the mud ban s and mangro"es did not admit o! landingD we there!ore went bac with the returning ebb to ;%%er 9ead, and moored the shi% nearly in our !irst situationD where there was something more than 2 !athoms all round, at low water# T;/5*A$ 1- 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 8n the !ollowing morning, the time ee%ers and other instruments were sent on shore under the charge o! lieutenant Flinders, with two o! the young gentlemen to assist him, and a guard o! marines !or the %rotection o! the tents# 6t had a%%eared !rom the sur"ey, that the time ee%ers were losing more than the Port&:ac son rates su%%osedD and be!ore @uitting this coast !or the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, it was necessary to ta e !resh

obser"ations# Mr# Flinders undertoo as usual to %er!orm this ser"ice, whilst 6 should be absent u% the 5oundD and lieutenant Fowler was directed to eBamine and air all the stores, and ma e the shi% ready !or sea against my return# 9a"ing made these dis%ositions, 6 embar ed in the 'ady <elson with the naturalist, ta ing my whale boat and sur"eying instruments# Ge had a strong !lood tideD and a!ter grounding on a ban , anchored ele"en miles abo"e the shi%, in 2 !athoms, that being the greatest de%th to be !ound# 6t was then high waterD and the brig being eB%ected to be le!t dry by the ebb, we %re%ared !or it by mooring, to %re"ent all chance o! settling on the anchor, and ho"e u% the !ore and a!ter eelsD the new main eel being swelled by the wet, could not be raised, and when it too the ground, the "essel turned about "iolently and dragged both the anchors, until the eel bro e o!!, and then she lay easy# At low water, the seamen went out u%on the dry !lat and !ound the best bower cable %arted, and the anchor so !ar buried in the @uic sand, that it could not be raised# At ten o'cloc the !lood tide came rolling in, and %resently set the brig a!loatD the anchor was then weighed with ease, by means o! a hawser %re"iously bent to it, and the "essel rode by the small bower, against a tide which ran at the strongest between !our and !i"e nots# G/*</5*A$ 1M 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 The 'ady <elson again too the ground at siB in the morning# 8n sounding o"er to the east shore, distant hal! a mile, 6 !ound a small channel leading u%wards, with !our or !i"e !eet more water in it than where the brig layD the western shore was two miles distant o"er a silty !lat, which was dry at low water and le"el as a race ground# At ele"en, the !lood came in, siB or eight inches %er%endicular, with a roaring noiseD and so soon as it had %assed the brig, 6 set o!! with Mr# Brown and Mr# 'acy in the whale boat, to !ollow it u% the small channel on the eastern shoreD and ha"ing a !air wind we outran the tide and were sometimes obliged to wait its rising be!ore we could %roceed# At the end o! siB miles the small channel led across to the western sideD and the rare o%%ortunity o! a landing %lace induced me to %itch our tent there !or the night( two miles higher u%, the whole breadth o! the 5ound was reduced to hal! a mile# The country here was a sti!!, clayey !lat, co"ered with grass, and seemed to ha"e been o"er!lowed at s%ring tidesD though the high water o! this day did not reach it by !i"e !eet# Three or !our miles to the southward there were some hills, whence 6 ho%ed to see the course o! the stream u% to its terminationD and ha"ing time be!ore dar , we set o!!# The grass o! the %lain was inters%ersed with a s%ecies o! sensiti"e %lant, whose lea"es curled u% in, and about our !ootste%s in such a manner, that the way we had come was !or some time distinguishable# From the nearest o! the small hills, 6 set the bearings o! *ouble and Pine Mounts, our tent, and the brig at anchor, by which this station was !iBed as in the chartD but in order to reconcile the bearings, 6 !ound it necessary to allow 12 deg# o! east "ariation# Towards *ouble Mount and 5hoal&water Bay, the country consisted o! gently&rising hills and eBtensi"e %lains, well co"ered with wood and a%%arently !ertile# The stream at the head o! Broad 5ound could not be traced !rom hence more than three or !our miles abo"e the tentD but it

may %ossibly run u% much !urther to the south&eastward, though too small to be distinguished in the wood, or to be na"igable !or boats# To the south and westward there was a ridge o! high land, which a%%eared to be a %rolongation o! the same whence the u%%er branches o! Port Bowen and 5hoal&water Bay ta e their rise, and by which the low land and small arms on the west side o! Broad 5ound are bounded# A similar ridge ran behind Port 4urtis and =e%%el Bay, and it is not im%robable that the two are connected, and o! the same substanceD !or at Port 4urtis the basis stone o! the country was a granite, and this small hill was the same# 6t has been more than once obser"ed, that granite is amongst the substances which eBert an in!luence u%on the magnetic needleD and it is to the attraction o! the ridge o! mountains to the south and westward, that 6 attribute the great "ariation !ound in the bearings at this station# Ge returned to the tent at sunsetD and there %assed a disagreeable night amongst mus etoes, sand !lies, and ants# At !our in the morning .T9;)5*A$ 1+ 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 the ebb had made, and we embar ed in the boatD but the de%th o! water was so little that we could not %roceed, and were obliged to re&land and wait !or the !ollowing tideD not without a%%rehension o! being le!t till the neBt s%rings came on# At two in the a!ternoon the !lood came u% ra%idly, and in hal! an hour it was high waterD we set o!! immediately, and a!ter some trouble !rom the shoals, reached the brig at !i"e o'cloc # Mr# Murray got under way at three the neBt morning .F)6*A$ 1K 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 to beat down to ;%%er 9ead, the wind being !rom the northwardD but the 'ady <elson getting aground, 6 went o!! with Mr# Brown in my boat, and reached the shi% at se"en o'cloc , and in the e"ening, the brig arri"ed# 'ieutenant Fowler had gone through the most essential duties, and the shi% was nearly ready !or seaD but on landing at the tents 6 !ound that the time ee%ers had been let down, and the business o! !inding new rates !or them was to be recommenced# This accident would re@uire a wee to be re%airedD and being unwilling to remain so long inacti"e, 6 determined to lea"e Mr# Flinders at ;%%er 9ead, and ta e the shi% o"er to the inner end o! Thirsty 5ound, where it a%%eared there was something to correct in ca%tain 4oo 's chart# 5AT;)*A$ 1E 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 The 'ady <elson had lost two sheets o! co%%er, and the trun s o! the sliding eels re@uired some re%arationD 6 there!ore desired lieutenant Murray to lay his "essel on shore and get these matters arranged, to cut wood !or himsel!, and be ready to sail in a wee !or Torres' 5traitD and his stoc o! water was com%leted out o! the 6n"estigator# 5;<*A$ 1I 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 8n the 1Ith in the morning we unmoored the shi%, and a little be!ore low tide stretched o"er towards Thirsty 5oundD but the numerous shoals to be encountered, and which cannot be concisely described otherwise than in a chart, caused much delayD and it was near noon o! the day !ollowing .M8<*A$ 2, 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 be!ore we anchored at the south end o! 'ong 6sland, in 2 !athoms, and about one mile !rom the low mangro"e shore# At the south end o! the island was a small hill, bearing 5# MM deg# /# one mile and a hal! !rom the shi%, where 6 landed with a %arty o! the gentlemenD it !orms the west %oint o! the inner entrance to Thirsty 5ound, as some low red cli!!s, one mile and a hal! distant, do the east %ointD but a shoal, dry at low water, lies in the middle, and the channels on each side are not calculated !or a shi%# The small hill was !ound to be on a

detached islet one mile long, the greater %art o! which is mud co"ered with mangro"esD the hill is %artly eBca"ated by an arched way running through it, and the stone is o! a miBed red and white colour, and o! an ochry consistence# From the highest to%, 6 set( ;%%er 9ead, bearing 5# 2E deg# 22' G# *ouble Mount# 5# M2 2, /# Pine Mount, 5# +1 M /# These bearings %lace the inner end o! Thirsty 5ound in latitude 22 deg# 1+'D and curtail the distance o! thirty miles !rom Pier 9ead in ca%tain 4oo 's chart, to twel"e miles and a hal!# T;/5*A$ 21 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 8n the 21st, the botanical gentlemen went o"er in the launch to the east side o! Thirsty 5ound, the main land ha"ing been always !ound more %roducti"e in the objects o! their %ursuit, than any island howe"er large# 6 went to eBamine along the west side o! 'ong 6slandD but had not %roceeded two miles be!ore an o%ening %resented itsel! amongst the mangro"es# 6t led to the eastward, and then se%arated into two branchesD and in !ollowing that which trended north&east 6 came into Thirsty 5ound, and landed !i"e miles abo"e the inner entrance, at an islet in mid&channel, which had been set !rom Pier 9ead and is laid down by ca%tain 4oo # <o less than !i"e di!!erent %ieces o! land were !ound to be cut o!! !rom the south end o! 'ong 6sland, by winding channels amongst the mangro"esD and 6 now saw the %ros%ect o! a %assage through the middle, leading out at the bight between the north %oint and Pier 9ead# A woody and rather ele"ated islet obscures the inner end o! the o%ening, and seems to ha"e %re"ented ca%tain 4oo 's obser"ing this se%aration when going u% Thirsty 5ound in his boat# 6 !ound in it a good bottom, with 2 to M !athoms water, and room !or a shi% to swing, or sail through as !ar as the outer o%ening to seaD but another island lies in the outlet, the bottom is roc y, and the regular de%th at low water is not so much as 2 !athoms on either side# 9a"ing ta en a second set o! angles, and %assed out by the new o%ening, 6 steered northward along the east side o! 'ong 6slandD but although the land be high and rather stee%, there was seldom so much as 2 !athoms at a mile distance# 6 landed at the north end o! the island, to ascertain better the !orms and %ositions o! the <orth&%oint 6slesD and then, steering southward along the west side, entered a co"e where the !orm o! the surrounding land ga"e a ho%e o! !inding !resh water !or the shi%D but the borders were co"ered with mangro"es, and we could not get su!!iciently !ar u% to now whether any %art o! the stream running through them were !resh# Another set o! angles was ta en !rom a hill on the south side o! the co"eD and the sun being then set, our tent was %itched !or the night# G/*</5*A$ 22 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning 6 steered onward along the west side o! 'ong 6sland, landing occasionally to eBamine the gullies made by the rainsD but at this time they were all dry# As !ar to the south as Gestside 6slet, the shore is tolerably high and the water dee%D and near to the inner end o! the

islet, where 6 landed to ta e angles, there was no bottom with 1, !athomsD but the shore !rom thence to the shi% was low and co"ered with mangro"es, and e"en the roc y %oints cannot be a%%roached within hal! a mile, eBce%t by boats# <ot a single 6ndian was seen during this eBcursion round 'ong 6slandD nor !rom the length o! the grass and a%%earance o! their !ire %laces, do 6 thin they had been there !or some months# T9;)5*A$ 22 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt day 6 made a !urther eBamination o! the winding channels at the south end o! 'ong 6slandD and also went to an inlet on the east side o! Broad 5ound, the entrance o! which is so much obstructed by shoals, that it was di!!icult to !ind a su!!icient de%th, e"en !or the boat# 6 landed with the naturalist at a low, cli!!y head on the north side o! the entranceD but not without wading a @uarter o! a mile in the mud# Ge saw !rom thence, that this inlet, though %resenting the a%%earance o! a res%ectable ri"er when the tide was in, had no %erce%tible breadth at !i"e miles within the land, that it was almost wholly dry at low water, and that the shores were co"ered with mangro"es to a great eBtentD e"en the cli!!y head where we stood, was surrounded with mangro"es, and a%%eared to be insulated at s%ring tides# F)6*A$ 2- 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning o! the 2-th, we got under way to return to ;%%er 9eadD and ha"ing the same di!!iculties to encounter amongst the shoals as be!ore, did not reach our !ormer anchorage until neBt day .5AT;)*A$ 2M 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23# 8n landing at the tents, 6 !ound, to my no less sur%rise than regret, that the time ee%ers had again been let downD and no more than one day's rates had been since obtained# Twenty&!i"e sets o! distances o! the sun and moon had been ta en to corres%ond with an e@ual number on the o%%osite sideD and it a%%eared that lieutenant Flinders being intent u%on these, had !orgotten to wind u% the time ee%ers on the 22nd at noon# This !resh di!!iculty was "ery embarrassing# To go away !or Torres' 5trait and the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria without good rates, was to cri%%le the accuracy o! all our longitudesD and on the other hand, the eB%ected a%%roach o! the contrary monsoon on the <orth 4oast admitted o! no longer delay in Broad 5ound# 8n com%aring the last day's rates with those o! the !our days %re"iously obtained, the letting down did not a%%ear to ha"e %roduced any material alterationD and 6 there!ore determined to combine the whole together, and to sail immediately# 5;<*A$ 2+ 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 The !ollowing day was occu%ied in com%leting the holds with wood, ta ing on board our shore establishment, and %re%aring !or seaD and neBt morning .M8<*A$ 2K 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 we steered down Broad 5ound, with the 'ady <elson in com%any, ee%ing near the western side to a"oid the middle shoals# 8n a sea breeJe coming in at north, we tac ed towards the <orth&%oint 6slesD and at sunset, the !lood tide ha"ing then made, anchored in E !athoms, u%on a bottom o! sand and roc , the north&westernmost isle bearing <# + deg# /#, two leagues# 6n the morning we %assed round the <orth&%oint 6sles, with a breeJe !rom the south&eastD and thus @uitted Broad 5ound, steering o!! !or the outermost and largest o! the <orthumberland 6slands#

There remains little to be said u%on the na"igation o! Broad 5ound, more than what has been related o! our courses in it, and what will be !ound in the chart# The western channel, between the Flat 6sles and the main, is not to be recommendedD but a!ter steering u% the middle o! the 5ound and %assing these isles, the western shore should be e%t nearest a&bord# A shi% may then reach ;%%er 9ead without di!!iculty, and lie there in %er!ect sa!ety !rom all winds, at two&thirds o! a mile o!!D but cannot go higher u% the sound without ris o! grounding on the ban s# From hal! !lood to hal! ebb, landing is easy at ;%%er 9ead, and it is %erha%s the sole %lace on the main %ossessing that ad"antageD e"ery where else the shore is "ery low, !ronted with mud ban s, and co"ered, in some %laces miles dee%, with interwo"en mangro"es, amongst which the tide !lows at high water# The stone o! ;%%er 9ead, and a%%arently o! all the hills in its neighbourhood, is graniticD whilst that o! 'ong 6sland and Gest 9ill a%%roach nearer to %or%hyry# At the inner entrance o! Thirsty 5ound the %oints are mostly com%osed o! an earth, which is not hea"y, is sometimes red, but more !re@uently white, or miBedD and o! a consistence not harder than ochre# 'ong 6sland, though co"ered with grass and wood, is stony and inca%able o! ordinary culti"ation# 8n the main land, the low %arts between the mangro"es and the hills seemed to be o! a tolerably good soilD and according to the re%ort o! some o! the gentlemen, who made an eBcursion at the bac o! ;%%er 9ead, the "allies there %roduce good grass and a%%eared !ertile# There seems, indeed, to be a considerable eBtent o! land about Broad 5ound and on the %eninsula between it and 5hoal&water Bay, which, i! not calculated to gi"e a rich return to the culti"ator o! wheat, would su%%ort much cattle, and %roduce maiJe, sugar, and tobaccoD and cotton and co!!ee would grow u%on the more roc y sides o! the hills, and %robably e"en u%on 'ong 6sland# 5hould it e"er be in contem%lation to ma e an establishment in <ew 5outh Gales within the tro%ic, in aid o! Port :ac son and the colonies to the southward, this neighbourhood would %robably be chosenD and the great rise o! tide %resents ad"antages which might be some time turned to account in shi% building# 8n the west side o! the sound, near the Flat 6sles, the rise at s%ring tides is not less than thirty, and %erha%s reaches to thirty&!i"e !eet# At ;%%er 9ead it is !rom twenty at the nea%s, to thirty or more at the s%ringsD but the bottom rises so much towards the to% o! the sound, that the tide there ne"er seems to eBceed twel"e !eet# The time o! high water is nearly Aele"en hours a!terA the moon's %assage o"er and under the meridianD though the !lood runs u% near an hour on the west side o! the sound, a!ter it is high water by the shore# The %laces best calculated !or the construction o! doc s, a%%ear to be at the u%%ermost or -th Flat 6sles, where the shoals !orm a natural harbour, and at the entrance o! the o%ening near ;%%er 9ead, in which is a small islet o! sand and roc , not co"ered with mangro"es nor surrounded with mud !lats# The %ines o! Port Bowen, 5hoal&water Bay, and the <orthumberland 6sles, would !urnish the necessary s%ars and lighter %lan ingD and there is no reason to thin that the Aeucaly%tusA, which grows all o"er the country, should not be as !it !or timbers, etc#, as it is !ound to be !urther southward# <o iron ore was seen in the neighbourhoodD but were a colony established and the bac ridge o! mountains well eBamined, this and other metallic %roductions might be !ound# The attraction which the mountains seemed to ha"e u%on the needle, is in !a"our o! this %robabilityD but the iron wor might be %re%ared at Port :ac son where the ore eBists, and in whose "icinity there are %lenty

o! coals# Fresh water was scarce at this time, none being any where disco"ered near the sea side, eBce%t a small rill at the bac o! ;%%er 9ead, little more than ade@uate to the su%%ly o! the tentsD it can howe"er be scarcely doubted, that !resh water !or domestic %ur%oses would be !ound in most %arts o! the countryD and there is a season o! the year, most %robably the height o! summer, when rain !alls abundantly, as was demonstrated by the torrent&worn mar s down the sides o! the hills# <ot a single nati"e was seen, either on the shores o! Thirsty, or Broad 5ounds, during the whole time o! our stay# There are angaroos in the woods, but not in numbers# The shoals all o"er the sound are !re@uented by !loc s o! duc s and curlewsD and we saw in the u%%er %art, some %elicans, an indi"idual o! a large ind o! crane, and another o! a white bird, in !orm resembling a curlew# Many turtle were seen in the water about 'ong 6sland, and !rom the bones scattered around the deserted !ire %laces, this animal seemed to !orm the %rinci%al subsistence o! the nati"esD but we had not the address to obtain any# 9um%&bac ed whales !re@uent the entrance o! the sound, and would %resent an object o! interest to a colony# 6n !ishing, we had little success with hoo and lineD and the nature o! the shores did not admit o! hauling the seine# The climate here, being one degree within the tro%ic, was warm at this season, which may be considered as the s%ring and the driest time o! the year# 8n board the shi%, the height o! the thermometer did not eBceed K+ deg#, with the warm winds !rom the northward, but at the tents it a"eraged at noon somewhat abo"e I, deg#D and the mus etoes and sand !lies were "ery troublesome at all %laces near the mangro"es# Ge did not see any sna es or other "enemous re%tiles or insects# The AlatitudeA o! ;%%er 9ead, !rom siB meridian obser"ations in the arti!icial horiJon, is 22 deg# 22' 2-C 5# A'ongitudeA !rom !i!ty sets o! distances o! the sun and moon, gi"en in Table 66 o! the second A%%endiB to this Volume, 1-I deg# -+' M2C /# The errors o! the time ee%ers !rom mean Greenwich time, at noon there 5e%t# 2+, and their mean rates o! going during se"en days, o! which !our were be!ore and three a!ter they had been let down the second time, were as under( /arnshaw's <o# M-2 slow 2h 2' 2K#22C and losing I#+2C %er day# /arnshaw's <o# M2, slow 2h 2I' 1M#MKC and losing 21#-1C %er day# These errors and rates were !ound by lieutenant Flinders, !rom e@ual altitudes ta en with a seBtant on a stand, and using an arti!icial horiJon o! @uic sil"er# The longitudes gi"en by the time ee%ers on 5e%t# 12 a#m# at ;%%er 9ead, with the Port&:ac son rates, were these( <o# M-2, 1-I deg# M-' 2KC east# <o# M2,, 1-I deg# M2' -K#MC east#

The mean is K' 1-C to the east o! the lunarsD but on using rates e@ually accelerated !rom those at Port :ac son to the abo"e at ;%%er 9ead, and commencing the acceleration on Aug# 1M, at =e%%el Bay, where the time ee%ers were !ound to be ee%ing their !ormer rates, the mean longitude will be 1-I deg# -E' M+#+C, or 2' 2#+C !rom the lunar obser"ationsD which is there!ore the %resumable sum o! their irregularities a!ter August 1M, or in 2K#K days# 6n !iBing the %ositions o! %laces along the /ast 4oast, 6 ha"e made use o! the time ee%ers !rom Port :ac son to Port 4urtis, without any correction# From Port 4urtis to Broad 5ound, the coast and islands are laid down !rom theodolite bearings ta en on shore, combined with the obser"ed latitudesD and conse@uently the accuracy in longitude o! the !irst %ortion de%ends u%on that o! Port :ac son and the time ee%ers, and o! the last, u%on ;%%er 9ead and the sur"ey# These two unconnected longitudes meet at Port 4urtis, and the di!!erence between them is there no more than MC# From obser"ations with the theodolite u%on the to% o! ;%%er 9ead, the A"ariationA was E deg# 2K' eastD but on mo"ing the instrument ten yards to the south&west, it was -M' less# At two other stations on the west side o! the sound, it was E deg# 1M', and E deg# ,'D and on board the shi% K deg# 1K' and K deg# -+', corrected# 8n the east side o! the sound it di!!ered at siB stations on shore, !rom E deg# to + deg#D and on board the shi% was + deg# --' corrected# As general results, there!ore, but subject to many small de"iations, the "ariation may be ta en, 8n the west side o! Broad 5ound at E deg# ,' /# 8n the east side K , At the head o! the sound it was, at one station 12 deg#, at another 1, deg#D the mean, 11 , The di!!erences between the two sides o! the sound, both on shore and on board, are nearly similar to what too %lace in 5hoal&water Bay# The rise o! AtideA and time o! high water ha"e been mentionedD but it may be %ro%er to say what 6 concei"e to be the cause o! the eBtraordinary rise in Broad 5ound# From 4a%e 9owe, at the southern eBtremity o! the /ast 4oast, to Port 4urtis at the edge o! the tro%ic, the time o! high water !alls between se"en and nine hours a!ter the moon's %assage, and the rise does not eBceed nine !eetD but !rom thence to the northward, commencing with =e%%el Bay, the time becomes later, and the rise augments, till, at Broad 5ound, they reach ele"en hours, and between thirty and thirty&!i"e !eet# The %rinci%al !lood tide u%on the coast is su%%osed to come !rom the south&east, and the ebb !rom the north, or north&westD but !rom the %articular !ormation o! =e%%el and 5hoal&water Bays, and o! Broad 5ound, whose entrances !ace the north, or north&west, this ebb tide sets into them, and accumulates the water !or some time, becoming to them a !lood# This will, in some degree, account !or the later time and greater rise o! the tideD and is con!ormable to what ca%tain 4oo says u%on the same subject >9aw esworth, 666# 2--?D but 6 thin there is still a su%er&adding cause# At the distance o! about thirty leagues to the <# <# G# !rom Brea &sea 5%it, commences a "ast mass o! ree!s, which lie !rom twenty to thirty leagues !rom the coast, and eBtend %ast Broad 5ound# These ree!s, being mostly dry at low water, will

im%ede the !ree access o! the tideD and the greater %ro%ortion o! it will come in between Brea &sea 5%it and the ree!s, and be late in reaching the remoter %artsD and i! we su%%ose the ree!s to terminate to the north, or north&west o! the 5ound, or that a large o%ening in them there eBist, another !lood tide will come !rom the northward, and meet the !ormerD and the accumulation o! water !rom this meeting, will cause an eBtraordinary rise in Broad 5ound and the neighbouring bays, in the same manner as the meeting o! the tides in the /nglish and 6rish 4hannels causes a great rise u%on the north coast o! France and the west coast o! /ngland# That an o%ening eBists in the ree!s will herea!ter a%%earD and ca%tain 4oo 's obser"ations %ro"e, that !or more than a degree to the north&west o! Broad 5ound, the !lood came !rom the northward# 6 !ound, when at anchor o!! =e%%el Bay, and again o!! 6sland 9ead, that the !lood there came !rom the east or south&eastD but when lying three miles out !rom Pier 9ead, there was no set whate"erD and 6 am dis%osed to thin that it is at the entrance o! Broad 5ound, where the two !loods meet each other# 49APT/) 6V# The Percy 6sles( anchorage at <o# 2# Boat eBcursions# )emar s on the Percy 6slesD with nautical obser"ations# 4oral ree!s( courses amongst them during ele"en days search !or a %assage through, to sea# *escri%tion o! a ree!# Anchorage at an eastern 4umberland 6sle# The 'ady <elson sent bac to Port :ac son# 4ontinuation o! coral ree!sD and courses amongst them during three other days# 4a%e Gloucester# An o%ening disco"ered, and the ree!s @uitted# General remar s on the Great BarrierD with some instruction relati"e to the o%ening# ./A5T 48A5T# P/)4$ 65'/5#3 T;/5*A$ 2E 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 8n @uitting Broad 5ound, we steered !or the north&easternmost o! the <orthumberland 6slands#, which 6 intended to "isit in the way to Torres' 5trait# These are no otherwise mar ed by ca%tain 4oo , than as a single %iece o! land seen indistinctly, o! three leagues in eBtentD but 6 had already descried !rom Mount Gestall and Pier 9ead a cluster o! islands, !orming a distinct %ortion o! this archi%elagoD and in honour o! the noble house to which <orthumberland gi"es the title o! du e, 6 named them APercy 6slesA# >Atlas, Plate H6#? At noon, the obser"ed latitude on both sides was 21 deg# M1' 2,CD the west end o! the largest <orth&%oint 6sle bore 5# 1E deg# G# three or !our leagues, and the Percy 6sles were coming in sight ahead# The weather was haJyD and the wind at /# 5# /# %re"enting us !rom !etching <o# 2, the largest isle, we tac ed at !i"e o'cloc , when it bore 5# 21 deg# to M- deg# /, two or three leaguesD <o# M, the north&westernmost o! the cluster, bearing <# 2- deg# G#, two miles and a hal!# At dus the anchor was dro%%ed in 1- !athoms, sandy ground, two or three miles !rom some roc y islets which lie o!! the west side o! <o# 2# The !lood tide at this anchorage came !rom the north&east,

one mile %er hour# Ge got under way again in the morning .G/*</5*A$ 2I 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23D but the wind being light and un!a"ourable, and the tide ad"erse, 6 went o!! in the whale boat, accom%anied by Messrs# Brown and Gestall, to eBamine the %assage between the roc y islets and <o# 2, directing lieutenant Fowler to !ollow with the shi% when the signal should be made# Ge !irst landed at the islets, where the same ind o! %ine as seen at Port Bowen and other %laces, was abundantD and lea"ing the two gentlemen there, 6 sounded the %assage, which was a mile and a hal! wide, with a sandy bottom o! E to 12 !athoms dee%, and sheltered !rom all eastern winds# The signal was then made to the shi%D and so soon as she was brought to anchor, 6 went to eBamine a little co"e, or basin, into which the height o! the surrounding hills ga"e eB%ectation o! !inding a run o! !resh water# The entrance is little more than wide enough !or the oars o! a rowing boat, the basin, within side, is mostly dry at low water, and the borders are o"er&run with the tiresome mangro"eD but when the tide is in, it is one o! the %rettiest little %laces imaginable# 6n searching round the s irts, between the mangro"es and !eet o! the hills, a torrent&worn gully was !ound with se"eral holes o! waterD and one in %articular, near the edge o! the mangro"es, where, by cutting a rolling way !or the cas s, the holds o! the two "essels might be !illedD and at a beach without side o! the entrance to the basin, se"eral hauls o! the seine were made with good success# T9;)5*A$ 2, 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 /arly neBt morning, lieutenant Fowler landed with a %arty o! men %re%ared to cut through the mangro"esD but !resh water was disco"ered to ooJe out !rom amongst them, much below high&water mar D and by digging in the sand at hal! ebb, our cas s might be !illed more easily, and with better water than in the gully# Ghilst this duty was going on, the car%enters were sent to cut !ire wood and %ine logs u%on the roc y islets, the botanical gentlemen !ollowed their %ursuits where it best %leased them, and my time was occu%ied in sur"eying# From a hill near the head o! the basin, 6 too bearings o! all the objects to the south and westwardD amongst which, the !i"e !ollowing were the most im%ortant to the conneBion o! the sur"ey# Mount Gestall on the main >not distinct?, 5# 22 deg# M' /# <orthumberland 6slands, the -th, a %ea , 5# 1E 2, /# <orthumberland 6slands, the Kth, station on the hill, 5# 1I 2, G# <orthumberland 6slands, a %ea ed 6# mar ed 'h', 5# EI deg# MM' to <# EK 2M G# <orthumberland 6slands, high northmost, mar ed 'i', <# MK , G# The circle was com%leted in the a!ternoon, !rom a higher %art o! the island near the north %ointD and the weather being tolerably clear, nearly the whole o! the <orthumberland 6slands were com%rehended in the bearings !rom one or the other station# Two distant %ieces o! land in the <# G# by <#, mar ed A A and A 1A, situate near the eastern 4umberland 6slands o! ca%tain 4oo , were also distinguishedD but to the north&east, where 6 eB%ected to see a continuation o! the ree!s disco"ered by ca%tain 4am%bell o! the brig *e%t!ord, in 1KIK, neither ree! nor island was "isible# 5AT;)*A$ 2 84T8B/) 1E,2 8n the 2nd o! 8ctober, Mr# Brown accom%anied me to <o# 1, the

southernmost o! the Percy 6sles, which is near !i"e miles long, and the second o! the grou% in magnitude# Fresh water was !ound in %onds near the shore, and there were clusters o! %ine treesD but in general, this island is in!erior to <o# 2, both in soil and %roductions# 8! the two %ea ed hills u%on it, the south&easternmost is highestD but being craggy and di!!icult to be ascended, my bearings were ta en !rom the western hill# 6n returning to the shi% in the e"ening, we %assed between <o# + and the east side o! <o# 2, and round the north end o! the latter island, in order to see the !orm o! its coasts( the water was dee%, and there a%%eared to be no hidden dangers# 5;<*A$ 2 84T8B/) 1E,2 8n the 2rd, Mr# Bauer, the natural&history %ainter, went with me to the northern Percy 6sles, u%on each o! which is a hill somewhat %ea edD but that on <o# 2 is much the most so, and the highestD and being thic ly co"ered with %ine trees, is called APine Pea A( it lies in 21 deg# 211L2' south and 1M, deg# 1-1L2' east# My %rinci%al object was to ta e angles !or the sur"eyD and not being able to ascend Pine Pea , !rom its great accli"ity, we went onward to the two smaller islands <o# -D and !rom the to% o! the easternmost, a third 4umberland 6sland, mar ed A 2A, was distinguished, and the !ollowing amongst many other bearings, were ta en# Percy 6sle <o# 2, Pine Pea , distant 21L2 miles, 5 2 deg# M' G# The shi%, at anchor under <o# 2, 5# 1, -E G# <orthumberland 6#, the Kth, station, 5# 1- , G# <orthumberland 6#, the %ea mar ed 'h', 5# +K 2M G# <orthumberland 6#, the high, northmost, mar ed 'i', <# K2 1, G# 4umberland 6#, mar ed ' ', centre, <# 2+ , G# 4umberland 6#, mar ed ' 2', centre, <# -2 M, G# There is no shelter amongst the northern Percy 6sles against east windsD but shi%s may %ass between them, ta ing care to a"oid a roc which lies one mile northward !rom the Pine Pea , and is dry at low water# <othing was seen on these islands to merit more %articular noticeD and their !orms and situations will be best learned !rom the chart# 8n returning to the shi% at nine in the e"ening, 6 !ound lieutenant Fowler had @uitted the shore with his tents and %eo%le, the holds were com%leted with water, and both "essels ready !or sea# <o# 2, the largest o! the Percy 6sles, is about thirteen miles in circum!erenceD and in its greatest ele"ation %erha%s a thousand !eet# The stone is mostly o! two inds# A concreted mass o! di!!erent substances, held together by a hard, dar &coloured cement, was the most abundantD 6 did not see either coral or %umice&stone in the com%osition, but it otherwise much resembled that o! A en's 6sland in 5hoal&water Bay, and still more a stratum seen at the north&west %art o! 'ong 6sland( it was !ound at the to%s o! the highest hills, as well as in the lower %arts# The second ind o! stone is light, close&grained, and easily s%lits, but not in layersD it is o! a yellowish colour, and %robably argillaceous# The sur!ace o! the island is either sandy or stony, or both, with a small %ro%ortion o! "egetable soil intermiBed# 6t is generally co"ered with grass and woodD and some o! the "allies round the basin might be made to %roduce "egetables, es%ecially one in which there was a small run, and se"eral holes o! !resh water# The %rinci%al wood is the Aeucaly%tusA, or

gum tree, but it is not largeD small cabbage %alms grow in the gullies, and also a s%ecies o! !ig tree, which bears its !ruit on the stem, instead o! the ends o! the branchesD and %ines are scattered in the most roc y %laces# <o inhabitants were seen u%on any o! the islands, but there were deserted !ire %laces u%on all# The 6ndians %robably come o"er !rom the main land at certain times, to ta e turtle, in which they must be much more deBterous than we wereD !or although many turtle were seen in the water, and we watched the beaches at night, not one was caught# There are no angaroos u%on the Percy 6slesD nor did we see any use!ul birds# The large bats or "am%yres, common to this country, and called !lying&!oBes at Port :ac son, were o!ten !ound hanging by the claws, with their heads downward, under the shady to%s o! the %alm treesD and one solitary eel o! a good siJe, was caught on clearing out the hole where our water cas s had been !irst intended to be !illed# Pines, !resh water, and !ish will be some inducement to "isit the Percy 6slesD as %erha%s may be the hum%&bac ed whales, o! which a considerable number was seen in the "icinity# The best and most con"enient anchorage, and indeed the only one to be recommended, is that where the 6n"estigator lay, directly o!! the basinD in mid&channel between <o# 2 and the western %ine islets# 6t is sheltered at !ourteen %oints to the eastward, and three towards the westD and there being a clear %assage out, both to the north and south, no danger is to be a%%rehended( the bottom, howe"er, does not hold "ery well# A wet doc might be made o! the basin without other trouble or eB%ense than a little dee%ening o! the narrow entrance, and throwing a %air o! gates acrossD and were the mud to be cleared out, the basin would contain !i!teen or twenty sail o! merchant shi%s with great ease# The !lood AtideA came !rom the north and the ebb !rom the south, %ast the anchorageD but on the outside, they run south&west and north&east# 6t is not eBtraordinary that the rise and !all by the shore did not eBactly coincide with the swinging o! the shi%D but that the time o! high water should di!!er three hours, and the rise twenty !eet !rom Broad 5ound, is remar able# According to Mr# Fowler's obser"ations in the basin, it was high water there Aeight hours a!terA the moon's %assageD and the rise at the nea%s and s%rings a%%eared to be !rom eight to twel"e !eet# Three meridian obser"ations to the north, ta en by lieutenant Flinders, ga"e the AlatitudeA o! our anchorage, 21 deg# 2I' 21C 5# A'ongitudeA, according to the %osition o! ;%%er 9ead and the sur"ey !rom thence, 1M, deg# 12' /# AVariationA o! the needle, obser"ed on the low south&west %oint o! <o# 2, E deg# 2E' /# Three com%asses on board the shi% at anchor, ga"e M deg# 2-' when the head was east, or corrected to the meridian, E deg# -' /# ;%on the di!!erent ele"ated %laces whence bearings were ta en, the "ariation di!!ered !rom K deg# 2,' to I deg# 2,' east# M8<*A$ - 84T8B/) 1E,2 /arly in the morning o! the -th, we got under way, with the 'ady <elson

in com%any, to %roceed on our "oyage to Torres' 5trait and the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# The wind was at /# by <#, and we e%t close u% to weather the northern Percy 6slesD !or 6 had a desire to !all in with the ree!s laid down by Mr# 4am%bell, three&@uarters o! a degree to the eastward, in latitude 211L2 deg#D and to ascertain their termination to the north&westward# ./A5T 48A5T# BA))6/) )//F5#3 The tide %re"ented us !rom weathering the islands till three in the a!ternoonD we then %assed between <o# - and some roc s lying two miles to the north&east, with 22 !athoms water# *uring the night we tac ed e"ery two hours, wor ing to the eastward, in !rom 2, to 2+ !athomsD and at daylight .T;/5*A$ M 84T8B/) 1E,23, my station on the eastern isle <o# bore <# EI deg# G#, !our leagues# <othing was seen in the o!!ing, but in stretching to the <# <# /, ree!s were disco"ered !rom the mast head a little be!ore noonD and a!ter the obser"ation !or the latitude was ta en, 6 set one bearing /ast to /# by 5#, two leagues, and another <# 1- deg# G# to 2I deg# /#, !our or !i"e miles# 8ur situation was in 21 deg# 1M 2L2' south, and longitude !rom the bearing o! the Pine Pea , 1M, deg# 2-' east# These ree!s were not eBactly those seen by Mr# 4am%bellD but they are %robably not more than !i"e or siB leagues to the north&westward o! them, and !orm %art o! the same AbarrierA to the coast# 6n standing on between the two ree!s abo"e set, others, or %arts o! the same, came in sight aheadD u%on which 6 shortened sail to the three to% sails, desired the 'ady <elson to ta e the lead, and bore away north&westward along the inner side o! the northern ree!# 6n an hour we had %assed its west endD but another ree! came in sight, and !or a time obliged us to steer G# by 5# At !our o'cloc we ran northward again, !ollowing the direction o! the ree! on its lee sideD and at siB anchored in 2K !athoms, coarse sand, in the !ollowing situation( 'atitude obser"ed !rom the moon#, 21 deg# -' 5# 'ongitude !rom bearings, 1M, 1I /# <earest %art o! the ree!, dist# 21L2 miles, /# 1L2 5# A smaller ree!, distant 2 miles, <# G# 1L2 <# Percy 6sles, Pine Pea o! <o# 2, 5# I , G# 4umberland 6sland mar ed ' ', G# + , <# The ree!s were not dry in any %art, with the eBce%tion o! some small blac lum%s, which at a distance resembled the round heads o! negroesD the sea bro e u%on the edges, but within side the water was smooth, and o! a light green colour# A !urther descri%tion o! these dangers is unnecessary, since their !orms and relati"e %ositions, so !ar as they could be ascertained, will be best learned !rom the chart# ;ntil midnight, !i"e hours a!ter the moon had %assed the meridian, a tide came !rom 5# by /#, hal! a mile %er hour# The shi% then tended to the <# /# by /#D and this tide, whose rate was one mile, a%%earing to be the !lood, led me to su%%ose there might be an o%en sea in that direction# 6n the morning .G/*</5*A$ + 84T8B/) 1E,23, 6 sent a boat to lieutenant Murray with instructions !or his guidance in case o! se%arationD and a%%ointed him Murray's 6slands in Torres' 5trait, disco"ered by ca%tain /dwards in 1KI1, !or the !irst rendeJ"ousD cautioning him to be strictly on his guard against the treachery o! the nati"es# Ge weighed at se"en o'cloc , and steered <# <# /#, close to the windD at

ten, ree!s came in sight, eBtending !rom G# by <#, to <# by /# 1L2 /#, which we weathered one mile, ha"ing 2M !athoms water# 8ur situation at noon was in latitude 2, deg# -M' -,C, !rom obser"ations to the north and south, and the longitude by time ee%er 1M, deg# 2E'D the east end o! the great ree! to leeward bore 5# G# 1L2 G# two miles, and it eBtended in %atches to <# 1+ deg# G#, where, at the distance o! two leagues, was either a dry white sand or high brea ers but which could not be discerned !rom the re!lection o! the sun# <othing was seen to the north&east, and we now lay u% in that directionD but at one o'cloc there was a small ree! bearing <# 1L2 /#D and at three, a larger one eBtended !rom <# by G# 1L2 G# to /# <# /#, and on the outside o! it were such high brea ers, that nothing less than the unobstructed wa"es o! the ocean could %roduce them# Ge stood on !or this ree!, until !ourD and being then one mile o!!, tac ed to the southward, ha"ing 22 !athoms, nearly the same de%th as be!ore# The larbord tac was continued to siB o'cloc , at which time we anchored in 22 !athoms, white sand, shells, and %ieces o! coral, ha"ing neither ree! nor danger o! any ind in sightD but the smoothness o! the water le!t no doubt o! many lying to windward# From the high brea ers seen in the a!ternoon, howe"er, ho%es were entertained o! soon clearing the ree!sD !or by this time 6 was weary o! them, not only !rom the danger to which the "essels were thereby eB%osed, but !rom !ear o! the contrary monsoon setting in u%on the <orth 4oast, be!ore we should get into the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# At this anchorage, the tide came !rom between 5# G# by 5# and G# by 5#, till midnightD and at two in the morning .T9;)5*A$ K 84T8B/) 1E,23 the shi% rode north, and a!terwards <# /# by /#, to the !loodD which seemed to im%ly two o%enings in the ree!s, and one o! them near the high brea ers# The de%th o! water changed !rom 2M to 22 !athoms, in the nightD but a %art o! the di!!erence might arise !rom irregularities in the bottom# Ge got under way at daybrea , and stretched south&east to gain the windD at nine, a ree! was %assed on each beamD and at noon, when we tac ed to the northward in 2, deg# ME' south and 1M, deg# -E' east, there were !i"e others, distant !rom two to !i"e miles, bearing !rom 5# 2, deg# G#, round by the east and north to <# 2M deg# G#D but a%%arently with %assages between most o! them# ;%on these ree!s were more o! the dry, blac lum%s, called negro heads, than had been seen be!oreD but they were so much ali e as to be o! no use in distinguishing one ree! !rom anotherD and at high water, nearly the whole were co"ered# 6n the a!ternoon, a "ery light wind at north&east le!t no %ros%ect o! weathering the ree! be!ore dar , u%on which the high brea ers had been seenD we there!ore tac ed to the /# 5# /#, and anchored at sunset in E!athoms, !ine white sand, not !ar !rom our noon's situationD a ree!, %artly dry, was then distant one mile and a hal!, and bore /# 1L2 5# to 5# /# The !lood tide here ran something more than one mile an hour, and came !rom between north and north&west, the shi% tending to it at one in the morning# F)6*A$ E 84T8B/) 1E,2 At se"en, when the !lood had done running, the two "essels were lying u% /# <# /#, with a light breeJe !rom the northwardD but a ri%%ling which eBtended a mile !rom the ree!, caused us to tac until a boat was sent to sound u%on itD !or the 'ady <elson was so leewardly, that much time was lost in waiting !or her# At ten we %assed through the ri%%ling, in !rom

1- to 2- !athomsD and at noon were in latitude 2, deg# MM', and longitude 1M, deg# MM' by time ee%er# Ge seemed at this time to be surrounded with ree!sD but it was ascertained by the whale boat, that many o! these a%%earances were caused by the shadows o! clouds and the ri%%lings and eddies o! tide, and that the true coral ban s were those only which had either green water or negro heads u%on them# 8! these, howe"er, there was a !ormidable mass, all round ahead, with but one small channel through themD and this 6 was resol"ed to attem%t, in the ho%e o! its carrying us out to windward o! the high brea ers# At two o'cloc , the eastern ree!, which was a mile distant to leeward and nearly dry, was seen to terminate, whilst the northern ree!s eBtended out o! sight to the north&eastD the o%ening between them was a mile and a hal! wide, and !ull o! ri%%lingsD but ha"ing the whale boat ahead, we bore away /# 5# /#, to go through the least agitated %art# 9a"ing little wind, and a !lood tide ma ing against us, the boat was called bac to tow, and the brig directed to ta e its station by means o! her swee%s# 8ur soundings were irregular in the narrow %art, between 2- and I !athoms, on roc y groundD but a!ter getting through, we had !rom 2, to 22, the usual de%th in the o%en %laces# At sunset, the stream anchor was dro%%ed on a bottom o! coral sand and shellsD the ree!s then in sight eBtending !rom about /# 5# /#, round by the north to <# G#, where was the great northern ban # Ghether there were any %assage through them, could not be discernedD but the brea ers on many o! the outer %arts %ro"ed the o%en sea to be not !ar distant, and that the wa"es ran highD whilst within side, the water was as tran@uil as in harbour# The shi% rode north&west, till between eight and nine o'cloc , when it a%%eared to be high water, and the de%th was 2M !athomsD at Ih 2-' the moon %assed the meridian, and we were then riding 5# by G#, to a tide which ran at the strongest one and a @uarter mile %er hour# Between three and !our in the morning .5AT;)*A$ I 84T8B/) 1E,23 this tide had done, the de%th was 21 !athoms, and the shi% a!terwards rode <# <# /# till daylight# The !irst o! the !lood there!ore came !rom the <# <# /# and the latter %art !rom <# G#D it was high water at Aone hour be!oreA the moon's %assage, and the rise at least three !athoms, or eighteen !eet# This time o! high water coincides with that o! Broad 5oundD but it is remar able, that at the Percy 6sles, lying between them, it should be three hours earlier# The rise in Broad 5ound was !i"e !athoms, and three, or more, amongst the ree!sD whereas at the Percy 6sles, there was nothing on the shore to indicate a higher tide than two !athoms# 6n the morning we steered /# <# /#, with a light air !rom the southwardD the brig was ahead, and at hal! %ast nine, made the signal !or immediate dangerD u%on which the stream anchor was dro%%ed in 1+ !athoms# The tide ran one mile and a hal! to the /# <# /, and this leading me to eB%ect some o%ening in that direction, 6 sent the master to sound %ast the brigD and on his !inding dee%er water we !ollowed, dri!ting with the tide# At ele"en he made the signal !or being on a shoal, and we came to, in 2M !athoms, bro en coral and sandD being surrounded by ree!s, eBce%t to the westward !rom whence we had come# 8n the outside were high brea ers, not more than three or !our miles distantD these terminated at /# by 5#, and between them and other ree!s !urther on, there seemed a %ossibility o! !inding an outletD but no access to it could be had, eBce%t by a winding circuit amongst the great mass o! ban s to the southward, which it was not ad"isable to ma e u%on such an uncertainty# 6 there!ore determined to remain at the %resent anchorage till low water, when the ree!s would be dry, and the channels between them, i! any such there were, would be "isible( and should nothing better then %resent itsel!, to steer

north&westward, as close within the line o! the high brea ers as %ossible, until an o%ening should be !ound# The latitude obser"ed to the north and south, at this !i!th anchorage amongst the ree!s, was 2, deg# M2' 1MCD longitude by time ee%er, 1M1 deg# M' east# 6n the a!ternoon, 6 went u%on the ree! with a %arty o! the gentlemenD and the water being "ery clear round the edges, a new creation, as it was to us, but imitati"e o! the old, was there %resented to our "iew# Ge had wheat shea"es, mushrooms, stags horns, cabbage lea"es, and a "ariety o! other !orms, glowing under water with "i"id tints o! e"ery shade betwiBt green, %ur%le, brown, and whiteD e@ualling in beauty and eBcelling in grandeur the most !a"ourite A%arterreA o! the curious !lorist# These were di!!erent s%ecies o! coral and !ungus, growing, as it were, out o! the solid roc , and each had its %eculiar !orm and shade o! colouringD but whilst contem%lating the richness o! the scene, we could not long !orget with what destruction it was %regnant# *i!!erent corals in a dead state, concreted into a solid mass o! a dull&white colour, com%osed the stone o! the ree!# The negro heads were lum%s which stood higher than the restD and being generally dry, were blac ened by the weatherD but e"en in these, the !orms o! the di!!erent corals, and some shells were distinguishable# The edges o! the ree!, but %articularly on the outside where the sea bro e, were the highest %artsD within, there were %ools and holes containing li"e corals, s%onges, and sea eggs and cucumbersD7 and many enormous coc les >Achama gigasA? were scattered u%on di!!erent %arts o! the ree!# At low water, this coc le seems most commonly to lie hal! o%enD but !re@uently closes with much noiseD and the water within the shells then s%outs u% in a stream, three or !our !eet high( it was !rom this noise and the s%outing o! the water, that we disco"ered them, !or in other res%ects they were scarcely to be distinguished !rom the coral roc # A number o! these coc les were ta en on board the shi%, and stewed in the co%%ersD but they were too ran to be agreeable !ood, and were eaten by !ew# 8ne o! them weighed -K1L2 lbs# as ta en u%, and contained 2lbs# 2 oJ# o! meatD but this siJe is much in!erior to what was !ound by ca%tains 4oo and Bligh, u%on the ree!s o! the coast !urther northward, or to se"eral in the British MuseumD and 6 ha"e since seen single shells more than !our times the weight o! the abo"e shells and !ish ta en together# .7 Ghat we called sea cucumbers, !rom their sha%e, a%%ears to ha"e been the Abeche de merA, or Atre%angAD o! which the 4hinese ma e a sou%, much esteemed in that country !or its su%%osed in"igorating @ualities#3 There were "arious small channels amongst the ree!s, some o! which led to the outer brea ers, and through these the tide was rushing in when we returned to the shi%D but 6 could not any where see an o%ening su!!iciently wide !or the "essels# 'ow water too %lace at a @uarter %ast three, which corres%onded with the time o! high water obser"ed at the %receding anchorage# 6t was too late in the day to begin !ollowing the line o! the high brea ers to the north&westwardD but we li!ted the anchor to remo"e !urther !rom the eastern ree!, which was dry within a mile o! the shi%# The wind was light at south&eastD and in steering westward, with a boat sounding ahead, we got into one o! the narrow streams o! tide which carried us ra%idly to the south&westD nor could the boat assist us across, so much was it twisted about by the whirl%ools# At siB o'cloc , being well clear o! the stream, an anchor was dro%%ed u%on coral sand, in 2, !athomsD at ten, when the shi% swung to the ebb, the de%th was 22

!athoms, and 2E at low waterD as, howe"er, we had two&thirds o! a cable out, some o! the di!!erence %robably arose !rom the irregularity o! the bottom# 5;<*A$ 1, 84T8B/) 1E,2 At daylight we steered <# <# G#D but ree!s were %resently seen all round in that direction, and the course was altered !or the small %assage through which we had come on the Eth# 5uch, howe"er, was the change in the a%%earance o! the ree!s, that no %assage could then be disco"eredD and !earing to be mista en, 6 dared not "enture through, but too a more southern channel, where be!ore no %assage had a%%eared to eBist# At nine o'cloc , ha"ing sandy ground in 22 !athoms, and it being "ery di!!icult to distinguish the shoals at high water, the anchor was dro%%ed in latitude 2, deg# M+1L2' south and longitude 1M, deg# M-1L2' east# Between one and two in the a!ternoon, we steered G# <# G# and <# G#D and meeting with a small dry ree! at !our, hauled u% northward, !ollowing the line o! the great northern ree!s u%on which the high brea ers had been seen# At hal! %ast !i"e we came to, in 2+ !athoms sand and shells, ha"ing ree!s !rom 5# by /#, round by the east and north, to G# by 5#D but there were o%enings at <# <# G# 1L2 G# and <# /# by /#, and we had the %leasure to see high brea ers, !i"e or siB miles distant in the latter direction# The latitude here, !rom an obser"ation o! the moon, was 2, deg# -I1L2', and longitude 1M, deg# -E' by time ee%er# M8<*A$ 11 84T8B/) 1E,2 <eBt morning, the brig and whale boat went ahead, and we steered north, a!ter themD the eastern o%ening was choa ed u% with small ree!s, and we had scarcely entered that to the west when Mr# Murray made the signal !or danger, and hauled the wind to the southward# Ge did the same, round two inner shoalsD and !inding the bottom irregular, and more shallow than usual, dro%%ed the stream anchor in 2K !athoms# The 'ady <elson was carried ra%idly to the south&west, seemingly without being sensible o! it, and 6 there!ore made the signal o! recallD but although !a"oured by a !resh breeJe, she did not get u% against the tide till %ast nine o'cloc # Ge rode a great strain on the stream cable, and the shi% ta ing a sudden sheer, it %arted at the clinch and we lost the anchorD a bower was immediately let goD but the bottom being roc y, 6 !eared to remain during the lee tide, and in a short time ordered it to be weighed# Mr# Murray had lost a edge anchor, and was then riding by a bowerD and when the signal was made to weigh, he answered it by that o! inability# The tide was, indeed, running %ast the brig at a !ear!ul rate, and 6 !eared it would %ass o"er her bowsD !or she lay in one o! the narrow streams which came gushing through the small o%enings in the outer ree!# 5o soon as our anchor was %urchased, a boat's crew was sent to her assistanceD and just be!ore noon she got under sail# Ge beat u% till one o'cloc , towards the anchorage o! the %receding e"eningD but the ree!s being dee%ly co"ered, they could not be distinguished one !rom the otherD and ha"ing !ound a good bottom, in 2M !athoms, we came to, and made signal !or the brig to do the same# 'ieutenant Murray in!ormed me that his anchor had come u% with a %alm bro en o!!D and ha"ing only one bower le!t, he a%%lied to me !or another# 8ur anchor had swi"eled in the stoc D and the wor re@uired to it, with getting the last stream anchor out o! the hold, and sending Mr# Murray two gra%nels, which were all that our own losses could allow o! being s%ared, occu%ied us till the e"ening# At low water, two ree!s were seen, bearing <# 1E deg#to -1 deg# /#, a third 5# K2 deg# /#, and a !ourth 5# K- deg# G#D their

distances being !rom two to !our or !i"e miles# The loss o! anchors we had this day sustained, deterred me !rom any more attem%ting the small %assages through the Barrier )ee!D in these, the tide runs with eBtraordinary "iolence, and the bottom is coral roc D and whether with, or without wind, no situation can be more dangerous# My anBious desire to get out to sea, and reach the <orth 4oast be!ore the un!a"ourable monsoon should set in, had led me to %erse"ere amongst these intricate %assages beyond what %rudence could a%%ro"eD !or had the wind come to blow strong, no anchors, in such dee% water and u%on loose sand, could ha"e held the shi%D a roc y bottom cut the cablesD and to ha"e been under sail in the night was certain destruction# 6 there!ore !ormed the determination, in our !uture search !or a %assage out, to a"oid all narrow channels, and run along, within side the larger ree!s, until a good and sa!e o%ening should %resent itsel!# This %lan, which was dictated by a common regard to sa!ety, might carry us !ar to the north&west, and delay our arri"al in the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD yet 6 ho%ed notD !or ca%tain 4oo had !ound the !lood tide to come !rom south&east a!ter %assing the 4umberland 6slands, whereas be!ore, it ran !rom the northwardD a circumstance which seemed to indicate a termination o! the ree!s, or a great o%ening in them#, to the north or north&west o! those islands# T;/5*A$ 12 84T8B/) 1E,2 6n the morning#, we got under way and steered <# <# G#D but anchored again on !inding the !lood tide too strong to be stemmed with a light breeJe# 8ur latitude at this tenth anchorage amongst the ree!s, was 2, deg# M2' 1,C, !rom obser"ations to the north and south, and longitude by time ee%er 1M, deg# -2' east# At one o'cloc our course was resumed, and continued till sunset in clear waterD when we came to, in 22 !athoms sand and shells, not !ar to the south o! where the !irst high brea ers had been seen, in the a!ternoon o! the +th# A dry ree! bore <#1L2 /#, distant two and a hal!, and another /# 1L2 5# one&and&hal! milesD and !rom the mast head others were seen at the bac o! them, eBtending !rom <# G# by <# to near 5# /# by /# G/*</5*A$ 12 84T8B/) 1E,2 8n going u%on dec neBt morning at daybrea , to get the shi% under way, 6 !ound her situation di!!erent to that wherein we had anchored in the e"ening# The wind had been light, and as usual in such cases, the cable was shortened inD and it a%%eared !rom the bearings, and !rom the soundings mar ed e"ery hour on the log board, that between !our and !i"e in the morning, the anchor had been li!ted by the tide, or dragged, two miles north&east amongst the ree!s, !rom 22 into 2E !athomsD where it had again caught# This change o! %lace had not been %ercei"edD and it was di!!icult, !rom the circumstance ha"ing occurred at the relie! o! the watch, to disco"er with whom the cul%able inattention layD but it might ha"e been attended with !atal conse@uences# 9a"ing weighed the anchor, we steered westward with the brig and whale boat ahead, until %ast tenD when the eastern breeJe died away and the stream anchor was dro%%ed in 2, !athoms, !ine white sand# The ree!s were then co"ered# and a dry ban , bearing <# G# by G# !i"e or siB miles, was the sole object abo"e waterD and towards noon it was co"ered also# Between this ban and the great ree! and brea ers, was a s%ace which seemed to be o%enD but it was not su!!iciently large, nor did the tide run with that regularity and strength, to induce a belie! that, i! there

were a %assage, it could be such as 6 desired !or the "essels# Ge there!ore again steered westward, on a breeJe rising at <# G#, until ree!s were seen eBtending southward !rom the dry ban , and we bore away along their eastern side# At sunset, the anchor was dro%%ed in 2+ !athoms, near to our situation on the +th at noonD the dry ree!s bearing !rom 5# 2, deg# to <# 21 deg# G#, distant !rom one to three miles# T9;)5*A$ 1- 84T8B/) 1E,2 At daylight the breeJe was still !rom the north&westward, and our course was %ursued to the south and south&west, close round the inner end o! the ree!s, till they trended west and we could no longer ee% in with them# The Pine Pea o! the northern Percy 6sles, and se"eral o! the 4umberland 6slands were then in sightD and at noon our situation and bearings were as under# 'atitude obser"ed to the north and south, 21 deg# 2' 5# 'ongitude by time ee%er, 1M, 11 /# Pine Pea , 5# + 2, /# <orthumberland 6#, mar ed 'i', 5# +, -, G# 4umberland 6#, mar ed ' ', <# EI deg# to <# EM 2, G# 4umberland 6#, siB others, 5# KM to <# M- 2, G# The nearest o! these isles was little better than a sand ban surrounded with roc s, and was distant two leagues in the direction o! <# M- deg# G# Ge tac ed shi% at one, and at !our o'cloc D and anchored at dus , in 2K !athoms !ine sand, about !i"e miles to the <# <# G# o! our noon's situation# F)6*A$ 1M 84T8B/) 1E,2 The wind was at 5# by /# in the morning, and we steered northward a!ter the brig, in order to !all in with the ree!s and %rosecute our search !or an o%eningD in an hour they were "isible, and we %assed along their west side at the distance o! a mile# Be!ore nine o'cloc the brig made signal !or ha"ing only 1K !athoms, other ree!s were disco"ered in the north&west, and the course was altered to %ass within them# At ele"en we rounded their west endD and at noon were in latitude 2, deg# 2E' MEC, and !rom the bearing o! the 4umberland 6sle A A, in longitude 1M, deg# 1' east# Ge were now obliged to steer westward again, ha"ing ree!s at the distance o! two miles, !rom <# /# by /#, to <# G# by G#D and seeing that they eBtended onward, and the breeJe was !resh, 6 hauled u% !or the 4umberland 6sland mar ed AlA, the largest yet seen, with the intention o! anchoring there !or the night# The tide carried us too !ar to leeward, but we !etched a lesser island, Al2A, se"en miles to the northD and came to, in 1K !athoms grey sand, one mile !rom a beach on its north&west side, and hal! a mile !rom the ree! which surrounds the island# 5AT;)*A$ 1+ 84T8B/) 1E,2 /arly in the morning 6 landed with a %arty o! the gentlemen, and scrambled through a thic brush and o"er lum%s o! roc , to the highest %art near the north end o! the island# 9aJy weather much contracted my "iewD but se"eral new 4umberland 6slands were "isible, ma ing u% the number to !i!teen, o! which the greater %art had not been seen by ca%tain 4oo # Amongst the bearings ta en with a theodolite, were those o! ' ' and ' 2', which had been set !rom <o# - o! the Percy 6sles#

' ', the eBtremes, bore 5# -E deg# 2,' to -+ deg# -,' /# ' 2', 5# 2+ M, to 22 -, /# 5hi% at anchor, dist# one mile, <# +- , G# From these bearings and the se"eral latitudes, 6 ascertained the di!!erence o! longitude made !rom ;%%er 9ead to the shi%, to be 12' 2KC west# This little island Al2A is o! a triangular sha%e, and each side o! it is a mile longD it is surrounded by a coral ree! which, as usual, %resented a beauti!ul %iece o! marine scenery# The stone which !orms the basis o! the island, and is scattered loosely o"er the sur!ace, is a ind o! %or%hyryD a small %iece o! it, a%%lied to the theodolite, did not a!!ect the needle, although, on mo"ing the instrument a !ew yards southward, the east "ariation was increased 2 deg# 22'# <ot much "egetable earth was contained amongst the stones on the sur!ace, yet the island was thic ly co"ered with trees and brush wood, whose !oliage was not de"oid o! luBuriance# Pines grow here, but they were more abundant, and seemingly larger, u%on some other o! the islands, %articularly on Al2A, to the westward# There did not a%%ear to be any !iBed inhabitantsD but %roo!s o! the island ha"ing been "isited some months be!ore, were numerousD and u%on the larger island AlA, there was a smo e# The time o! high water coincided with the swinging o! the shi%, and too %lace one hour be!ore the moon's %assage, as it had done amongst the barrier ree!sD !rom ten to !i!teen !eet seemed to be the rise by the shore, and the !lood came !rom the northward# Ge returned on board the shi% at noonD but 6 de!erred getting under way till neBt morning, on account o! the wind blowing !resh, and some business to be eBecuted which could not be attended to whilst among the ree!s# This ga"e an o%%ortunity o! ma ing !urther obser"ations by the time ee%ers, !rom which it a%%eared that they ga"e only E' 2+#2C o! longitude west !rom ;%%er 9ead, with the rates there !oundD whereas by the sur"ey, we had made 12' 2KC# The time ee%er <o# M2,, ta en alone, ga"e 11' 2M#ECD and when the correction, a!terwards !ound necessary in the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, is a%%lied, the di!!erence becomes 12' -1C, almost eBactly as by sur"ey# The %re"ious %ositions o! the shi% amongst the ree!s, and where"er 6 had not any bearings o! !iBed %oints, ha"e there!ore been deduced !rom this time ee%er# The AlatitudeA o! the anchorage, !rom obser"ations to the north and south#, was 2, deg# -M' 2E' 5# A'ongitudeA !rom a chain o! bearings, connected with the !iBed station in Broad 5ound, 1-I deg# 2-' 12C /# AVariationA o! the theodolite, obser"ed on the north&west beach o! Al2A, K deg# 2I' eastD but it di!!ered on the north head o! the island, !rom K deg# to I deg# 22' east, in the s%ace o! a !ew yards# The "ariation amongst the Barrier )ee!s has not been mentionedD but !i"e aJimuths and am%litudes were ta en between the +th, %#m# and the 1Mth a#m# Ghen corrected to the meridian, the eBtremes were K deg# M2' and K deg# 11'D and the mean, in latitude 2, deg# --', longitude 1M, deg# 22', will be K deg# 2,' east#

5;<*A$ 1K 84T8B/) 1E,2 At daylight on the 1Kth, the breeJe was moderate at /# by <#, with !ine weatherD and in steering northward, close to the wind, we %assed three miles to leeward o! a dry ban o! roc s and sand# 5e"eral o! the 4umberland 6slands were in sight at noon, when our situation and the most essential bearings were as under# 'atitude, obser"ed to the north and south, 2, deg# 22' M+C 'ongitude !rom bearings, 1-I 221L6sland l2, station on the north end, 5# M /# 8ther isles, large and small, !rom thence to <# +K1L2 G# Pentecost 6# >o! ca%t# 4oo ?, resembling a tower, 5# EI G# <o ree!s were in sight, nor in steering <# <# /# and <# /# by <#, could any be distinguished !rom the mast head all the a!ternoon# At hal! %ast !i"e we tac ed and bore down to the brigD and then anchored in 21 !athoms, s%ec led sand and small stones, and sent a boat to lieutenant Murray with orders# 8ur latitude here, by an obser"ation o! the moon, was 2, deg# 1,' southD and now ho%ing we should not meet with any more interru%tion !rom the ree!s, 6 resol"ed to send the brig bac to Port :ac son# The 'ady <elson sailed so ill, and had become so leewardly since the loss o! the main, and %art o! the a!ter eel, that she not only caused us delay, but ran great ris o! being lostD and instead o! sa"ing the crew o! the 6n"estigator, in case o! accident, which was one o! the %rinci%al objects o! her attendance, it was too %robable we might be called u%on to render her that assistance# A good "essel o! the same siJe 6 should ha"e considered the greatest ac@uisition in Torres' 5trait and the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD but circumstanced as was the 'ady <elson, and in want o! anchors and cables which could not be s%ared without endangering our own sa!ety, she was become, and would be more so e"ery day, a burthen rather than an assistant to me# 'ieutenant Murray was not much ac@uainted with the ind o! ser"ice in which we were engagedD but the Jeal he had shown to ma e himsel! and his "essel o! use to the "oyage, made me sorry to de%ri"e him o! the ad"antage o! continuing with usD and increased my regret at the necessity o! %arting !rom our little consort# The stores and %ro"isions already su%%lied to the brig, were returnedD and Mr# Murray s%ared us his old launch, to re%lace, in some sort, the cutter we had lost in 5trong&tide Passage# A<anbarreA, one o! the two nati"es, ha"ing eB%ressed a wish to go bac to Port :ac son, was sent to the 'ady <elson in the morning .M8<*A$ 1E 84T8B/) 1E,23, with two seamen eBchanged !or the same number o! that "essel's crewD and Mr# *enis 'acy, who had been lent, returned bac to the 6n"estigator# 6 wrote to 9is /Bcellency go"ernor =ing, an account o! our %roceedings and disco"eries u%on the /ast 4oastD and re@uested a new boat might be built against our return to Port :ac son, and that the brig should be re%aired and e@ui%%ed ready to accom%any me in the !ollowing year# At nine o'cloc we got under way, and showed our colours to bid !arewell to the 'ady <elsonD she steered southward !or the 4umberland 6slands, whilst our course was directed north&east, close to the wind# The brig was not out o! sight when more ree!s were disco"ered, eBtending !rom east to <# <# G#D and in %ursuance o! my %lan to a"oid small o%enings, we bore away to run along their inner side# At noon, the latitude was 1I deg# ME'

2,C, and longitude by time ee%er, 1-I deg# 2K' east# )ee!s eBtended !rom /# 1L2 <# to 5# 1L2 /#, at the distance o! one to three milesD and there were se%arate %atches somewhat !urther, bearing G# by <# 1L2 <# and <# <# /# Between the !irst and last bearing was an o%ening o! a good a%%earance, and we hauled u% !or itD but the water ha"ing shoaled to 12 !athoms, though no brea ers were seen ahead, we e%t away againD and !rom that time till e"ening, %assed a "ariety o! ree!s, hauling u% between them to loo into the o%enings, and bearing away when re%ulsed# <one o! these ban s were dry, nor was there much brea ing water u%on themD which made it %robable that they were !ar within the outer line o! the barrier# The breeJe was !resh at south&east, and by sunset we had run ele"en leagues u%on "arious courses to the north&westward, with soundings !rom 1- to 22 !athomsD the bottom being roc y in the shallow, and sandy in the dee%er %arts# Ge were steering north&west, at the rate o! siB nots, when new ree!s were disco"ered, !rom ahead to aba!t the larbord beamD u%on which we cla%%ed u%on a wind to the southward, and just weathered them, %assing through ri%%ling water in 2, !athoms# ;%on this occasion 6 !elt "ery ha%%y that the 'ady <elson was gone, !or in all %robability she could not ha"e esca%ed this danger# Being now dar , it was too haJardous to stand onD and there!ore, on !inding a bottom o! grey sand in 2!athoms, we came to with the best bower, "eered to a whole cable, and sent down the to%&gallant yards# The latitude here, !rom a meridian altitude o! the moon, was 1I deg# -E 1L2', and the longitude 1-I deg# 121L2'D there was a small drain o! ebb tide !rom the 5# by G#, until ele"en o'cloc , but no run was %erce%tible a!terwards# T;/5*A$ 1I 84T8B/) 1E,2 6n the morning, we saw the ree! !rom <# 1L2 /# to G# 1L2 <#, not !urther distant than two miles, and the northernmost o! ca%tain 4oo 's 4umberland 6slands bore 5# M+ deg# G#, about eight leagues# The wind was at /# 5# /, blowing !reshD and our course was %ursued along the south side o! the ree! till nine o'cloc D when it terminated, and we steered northward twel"e miles, with no soundings at 2, !athoms# Another ree! was then seen, bearing !rom <# 1L2 /# to G# <# G#, and obliged us to steer westward again# The latitude at noon was 1I deg# 2M' 1MC, and longitude by time ee%er 1-E deg# -K1L2'D !our ree!s then eBtended !rom /# by 5# to <# G# by G#, at the distance o! two to !i"e milesD the northern 4umberland 6sland bore 5# I deg# /, and the outer o! two hills which 6 judged to be u%on 4a%e Gloucester, 5# 2I1L2 deg# G# This bearing, and ca%tain 4oo 's latitude o! the ca%e, would ma e its longitude to be 1-E deg# 2+1L2', or 1M1L2' east o! what that great na"igator lays it downD and it is to be obser"ed, that !rom the time o! %assing 5andy 4a%e, my longitude had gradually become more eastward as we ad"anced along the coast# 6t has be!ore been said, that ca%tain 4oo had no time ee%er in his !irst "oyageD nor did he %ossess many o! our ad"antages in !iBing the %ositions o! %lacesD it cannot there!ore be thought %resum%tuous, that 6 should consider the 6n"estigator's longitude to be %re!erable# Ge ran !rom noon, !i"e leagues G# 2L- <# along the south side o! the ree!sD and seeing their termination at two o'cloc , steered <# <# G#, 9olborne 6sle then bearing 5# M2 deg# G#, about !our leagues# At hal! %ast !our we had a small ree! two or three miles to the G# 5# G#, and a larger !our miles to the <# /#D and behind this last was one more eBtensi"e, with high brea ers on the outside, reaching !rom <# /# by <# to /#1L2 5# 6 hauled u% with the intention o! anchoring under the lee o! these ree!s, till

morningD but not !inding su!!icient shelter against the sea, we tac ed and stretched southward !or the clear water between the ree!s and the land# At sunset, the "ariation !rom am%litude was M deg# 2I' eastD 9olborne 6sle bore 5# by G# !rom the mast head, and no brea ers were in sight# This tac was %rolonged, under treble&ree!ed to% sails, till ten o'cloc D when a light was seen bearing 5# by /# 1L2 /#, %robably u%on the isle, and we stood to the northward# The wind blew !resh !rom the eastward all night, and raised a short swell which tried the shi% more than any thing we had encountered !rom the time o! lea"ing Port :ac sonD and 6 was sorry to !ind, brought on her !ormer lea iness, to the amount o! !i"e inches o! water %er hour# Ge tac ed to the south, soon a!ter mid&night, and to the northward at three in the morning .G/*</5*A$ 2, 84T8B/) 1E,23# 9olborne 6sle was seen bearing 5# + deg# G#, !our or !i"e leagues, at daylightD and at se"en we %assed between three small ree!s, o! which the easternmost had been set at G# 5# G# on the %receding a!ternoon# 6n hal! an hour, when the latitude !rom the moon was 1I deg# 1-', and longitude by time ee%er 1-E deg# 211L2', distant high brea ers were seen to the north and eastwardD the nearest small ree! bore 5# G# 1L2 G#, two miles, and a much larger one eBtended !rom <# 1L2 /# to G# by <# The %assage between these two being three miles wide, we bore away through itD and in !ollowing the south side o! the great ree!, le!t another, !i"e or siB miles long, on the larbord hand, the %assage being e@ually wide with the !ormer, and the least de%th 21 !athoms# 5oon a!ter ten o'cloc , we steered northward, round the west end o! the great ree!# At noon, the latitude !rom obser"ations to the north and south was 1I deg# E' 1MC, and longitude by time ee%er, 1-K deg# MI' east# <o land was in sight, and the high brea ers were lost in the eastern @uarterD but we had detached ree!s in the <# /#, the <# /# by <#, and G# <# G#, distant !rom two to !i"e miles# Towards the north there was siB %oints o! clear water, and 6 steered onward till near three o'cloc D when, besides two new ree!s already %assed, one on each side, we had !i"e others( two in the /# by <# at the distances o! one and !i"e miles# one /# 5# /# !our miles, another <# G# by G# siB miles, and a !i!th <# G# by <# three miles# Ghether to steer onward amongst these, and trust to !inding shelter !or the night, or to run south&westward towards the land, and get within all the ree!s be!ore night came on, was an im%ortant, but di!!icult %oint to decide# The ree!s in sight were small, and could not a!!ord shelter against the sea which was brea ing high u%on themD but these brea ers eBcited a ho%e that we might, e"en then, be near an o%ening in the barrierD and although caution inclined to steering bac towards the land, this %ros%ect o! an outlet determined me to %roceed, at least until !our o'cloc , at the chance o! !inding either larger ree!s !or shelter, or a clear sea# Ge were success!ul# At !our, the de%th was -2 !athoms, and no ree!s in sightD and at siB, a hea"y swell !rom the eastward and a de%th o! ++ !athoms were strong assurances that we had at length gained the o%en sea# The to%sails were then treble ree!ed, and we hauled to the wind, which blew strong at /# 5# /#, with s@ually weather# At eight, ho"e to and sounded( no ground with KM !athomsD and at twel"e, none with 11M# But the wind un!ortunately headed two %ointsD and the %robability o! meeting un nown ree!s being thereby much increased, 6 tac ed to the southward at one in the morning .T9;)5*A$ 21 84T8B/) 1E,23D %re!erring, i! we must o! necessity be again dri"en amongst them, to come in where we new o! an o%ening, rather than where their !ormation was totally un nown# At !our, tac ed shi% to the northward, and sounded with 1,, !athoms, no bottom# At daylight, no ree!s could be seen !rom the mast head, the wind

had moderated its strength, and we made all %ossible sail to the <# by /#D ee%ing two %oints !ree, to ma e the shi% go through the water# Ge now considered oursel"es entirely clear o! the ree!sD but at noon high brea ers were seen eBtending !rom Gest to <# <# G#, at the distance o! siB or se"en miles, and we hauled u% a %oint more to the eastward# 8ur latitude was 1K deg# M-', longitude 1-E deg# 2K', and at the de%th o! 1,, !athoms there was no groundD the "ariation obser"ed in the morning, with three aJimuth com%asses, was + deg# E' east, corrected to the meridian# Another ree! was disco"ered at two o'cloc , lying nearly three leagues to the northward o! the !ormerD but although there were many boobies, and tro%ic and man&o!&war birds about, no more dangers had been descried at dus D nor did we see any more until a%%roaching Torres' 5trait# 6 shall conclude this cha%ter with some general remar s on the ree!s, which !orm so eBtraordinary a barrier to this %art o! <ew 5outh GalesD and amongst which we sought !ourteen days, and sailed more than !i"e hundred miles, be!ore a %assage could be !ound through them, out to sea# The easternmost %arts o! the barrier seen in the 6n"estigator, lie nearly in 21 deg# south and 1M1 deg# 1,' eastD but there can be no doubt that they are connected with the ree!s lying to the southward, disco"ered in 1KIK by ca%tain 4am%bell o! the brig *e%t!ordD and %robably also with those !urther distant, which ca%tain 5wain o! the /liJa !ell in with in the !ollowing year# 6! so, the Barrier )ee!s will commence as !ar south&eastward as the latitude 22 deg# M,' and longitude about 1M2 deg# -,', and %ossibly still !urtherD Brea &sea 5%it is a coral ree!, and a conneBion under water, between it and the barrier, seems not im%robable# The o%ening by which we %assed out, is in 1E deg# M2', and 1-E deg# 2'D so that, did the Barrier )ee!s terminate here, their eBtent would be near 2M, miles in a straight lineD and in all this s%ace, there seems to be no large o%ening# Mr# 5wain did, indeed, get out at the latitude 22 deg#D but it was by a long, and "ery tortuous channel# 8! what eBtent our o%ening may be, is uncertainD but since ca%tain 4oo had smooth water in running to the west and northward to 4a%e Tribulation, where he !irst saw the ree!s, it should seem to be not "ery greatD certainly, as 6 thin , not eBceeding twenty, and %erha%s not !i"e leagues# 6 there!ore assume it as a great %robability, that with the eBce%tion o! this, and %erha%s se"eral small o%enings, our Barrier )ee!s are connected with the 'abyrinth o! ca%tain 4oo D and that they reach to Torres' 5trait and to <ew Guinea, in I deg# southD or through 1- deg# o! latitude and I deg# o! longitudeD which is not to be e@ualled in any other nown %art o! the world# The breadth o! the barrier seems to be about !i!teen leagues in its southern %art, but diminishes to the northwardD !or at the <orthumberland 6slands it is twel"e, and near our o%ening the breadth is not more than se"en or eight leagues# The ree!s seen in latitude 1K2L- deg#, a!ter we got through, being !orty leagues !rom the coast, 6 consider to be distinct ban s out at seaD as 6 do those disco"ered by Mons# de Bougain"ille in 1M1L2 deg#, which lie still !urther o!!# 5o !ar northward as 6 eB%lored the Barrier )ee!s, they are unconnected with the landD and continue so to latitude 1+ deg#D !or, as be!ore said, ca%tain 4oo saw none until he had %assed 4a%e Tribulation# An arm o! the sea is inclosed between the barrier and the coast, which is at !irst twenty&!i"e or thirty leagues wideD but is contracted to twenty, abreast o! Broad 5ound, and to nine leagues at 4a%e GloucesterD !rom whence it seems to go on diminishing, till, a little beyond 4a%e

Tribulation, ree!s are !ound close to the shore# <umerous islands lie scattered in this inclosed s%aceD but so !ar as we are ac@uainted, there are no other coral ban s in it than those by which some o! the islands are surroundedD so that being sheltered !rom the dee% wa"es o! the ocean, it is %articularly well ada%ted to the %ur%oses o! a coasting trade# The reader will be struc with the analogy which this arm o! the sea %resents to one in nearly the same latitude o! the northern hemis%here# The Gul%h o! Florida is !ormed by the coast o! America on the west, and by a great mass o! islands and shoals on the eastD which shoals are also o! coral# 8n the outside o! the barrier, the sea a%%ears to be generally un!athomableD but within, and amongst the ree!s, there are soundings e"ery where# <or is the de%th "ery une@ual, where the bottom is sandyD but li e the breadth o! the ree!s and the arm they inclose, it diminishes as we ad"ance northward, !rom +, to -E, to 2M, and to 2, !athoms near our o%eningD and to 2, at 4a%e Tribulation# The !urther to leeward, the shallower the water, seems to be a law amongst coral ree!s# There is some "ariation in the tide in di!!erent %arts o! the barrier, but the most general rise is about two !athomsD abreast o! the <orthumberland 6slands, howe"er, where the !lood !rom the south&east seems to meet that !rom the northward, it is three !athoms, and %erha%s more# The time o! high water there, and also at the eastern 4umberland 6slands, is Aele"en hours a!terA the moon's %assageD but it %robably accelerates north&westward, to the o%ening, and then retards !urther on( at /ndea"our )i"er, ca%tain 4oo !ound it to be high water an hour and a hal! earlier than is abo"e gi"en# 6t has been said, that the width o! the o%ening by which we got out to sea, is uncertainD it is undoubtedly !our, and %ossibly more leagues, but there are many small, unconnected ban s in it# To a shi% desiring access to any %art o! the coast, south o! /ndea"our )i"er, 6 should certainly recommend her to enter the inclosed sea by the way o! Brea &sea 5%it, i! able to choose her own routeD but the @uestion is, whether a shi% dri"en by stress o! weather, or by accident, to see the coast, might steer !or the o%ening with a !air %ros%ect o! %assing through in sa!etyN 6 certainly thin she mightD with the %recaution o! not attem%ting the %assage late in the day# The mar s to be gi"en !or it, are, the latitude 1E deg# M2', longitude 1-E deg# 2', "ariation + deg# east with the shi%'s head north or south, and the soundings# Ghen right o!! the o%ening, bottom will be !ound at !rom K, to -, !athoms be!ore any ree!s come in sightD whereas, i! brea ers be seen and no soundings can be obtained, it may be certainly concluded that the shi% is not in the !air way !or this o%ening, and %robably, that no large o%ening eBists in that %art o! the barrier# 8n getting soundings and a!terwards ma ing the ree!s near the situation abo"e gi"en, a shi% should %ush through the !irst o%ening o! two miles wide that %resents itsel!, and steer south&westward amongst the inner ree!s !or the landD and it will not be many hours, %erha%s minutes, be!ore she will !ind smooth water and anchoring ground# The commander who %ro%oses to ma e the eB%eriment, must not, howe"er, be one who throws his shi%'s head round in a hurry, so soon as brea ers are announced !rom alo!tD i! he do not !eel his ner"es strong enough to thread the needle, as it is called, amongst the ree!s, whilst he directs the steerage !rom the mast head, 6 would strongly recommend him not to a%%roach this %art o! <ew 5outh Gales# 49APT/) V# Passage !rom the Barrier )ee!s to Torres' 5trait#

)ee!s named /astern Fields# Pandora's /ntrance to the 5trait# Anchorage at Murray's 6slands# 4ommunication with the inhabitants# 9al!&way 6sland# <otions on the !ormation o! coral islands in general# Prince o! Gales's 6slands, with remar s on them# Gallis' 6sles# /ntrance into the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# )e"iew o! the %assage through Torres' 5trait# ./A5T 48A5T# T8GA)*5 T8))/5' 5T)A6T#3 T9;)5*A$ 21 84T8B/) 1E,2 The last ree!s were out o! sight in the e"ening o! 8ct# 21, and our course was continued !or Torres' 5traitD but the barrier was yet at too little distance, not to cause a%%rehension o! straggling ree!sD and 6 thought it too haJardous to run in the night, during this %assage# At noon o! the 22d .F)6*A$ 22 84T8B/) 1E,23, our latitude was 1+ deg# 2I', longitude 1-E deg# -2', and there was no bottom at 1M, !athoms >Atlas, Plate H66#?D nor was any thing unusual to be seen, unless it were tro%ic and man&o!&war birds, and gannets# The ABature de *ianeA o! Mons# de Bougain"ille should lie about thirty&eight leagues to the <# /# by /#, and his western ree!s about twenty&eight leagues to the <# <# G# 1L2 G#, o! this situationD and to them, or %erha%s some nearer ban s, the birds might %robably belong#7 A %iece o! land is mar ed to the south&west o! the !irst ree!s, but its eBistence is "ery doubt!ulD !or all that M# de Bougain"ille says o! it >66, 1+2? is, that Csome e"en thought they saw low land to the south&west o! the brea ers#C .7 Bougain"ille's longitude o! the north end o! Aurora 6sland, one o! his AArchi%el de Grandes 4ycladesA >the <ew 9ebrides o! 4oo ?, di!!ered M-' o! longitude to the east o! ca%tain 4oo 's %ositionD and it seems "ery %robable that it was as much too great when the abo"e dangers were disco"ered# Admitting this to be the case, the situations eBtracted !rom his "oyage >66, 1+1, 1+-? will be as under( Bature de *iane 1M deg# -1' south 1M, deg# 2M' east o! Greenwich# )ee! 1M 2-1L2 1-E + 5econd ree!, 1M 1K 1-K MK 3 5AT;)*A$ 22 84T8B/) 1E,2 <eBt day at noon, we were in 1M deg# 12' south, and 1-I deg# 2' eastD the current had set hal! a not to the <# <# G#, and many o! the !ormer inds o! birds, as also boobies and %etrels, were seen# 9itherto we had e%t u% nearly to the wind, in order to gain an o!!ing !rom the coast and Barrier )ee!sD but neBt morning .5;<*A$ 2- 84T8B/) 1E,23 the course was directed <# G# At noon, latitude 12 deg# -K', longitude 1-E deg# 2I'( many boobies seen, and some %etrels and tro%ic birds# 8n the 2Mth .M8<*A$ 2M 84T8B/) 1E,23, a shag !lew round the shi%, and a large !loc o! %etrels was seen( latitude at noon, 12 deg# MM', longitude 1-K deg# 22', and the current setting more than a mile an hour to the west >Atlas, Plate H666#?# At eight in the e"ening, when we hauled to the wind, there was no bottom at 12, !athoms# G/*</5*A$ 2K 84T8B/) 1E,2

6n the morning o! the 2Kth, a small land bird, resembling a linnet, was seenD at noon we were in 1, deg# 2E' south and 1-+ deg# K' east, and the current had set G# <# G#, three @uarters o! a mile an hour, since the 2Mth# The wind, which had been at south&east, then shi!ted suddenly to north, and blew !resh with s@ually weatherD but at midnight it "eered to south&east again# These changes were accom%anied with thunder, lightning and rainD indications, as 6 !eared, o! the a%%roaching north&west monsoon# Ge lay to, during a %art o! the nightD and at day&brea .T9;)5*A$ 2E 84T8B/) 1E,23 bore away again u%on our north western course# At eight o'cloc , brea ers were seen eBtending !rom 5# G# by G# to <# by# /#, distant !rom two to siB milesD there was a small ga% in them, bearing <# by G#1L2 G#, but we hauled u% north&east, to windward o! the whole, and made more sail# 6 "entured to bear away at tenD and at noon our latitude was I deg# M1' 2+C, and longitude 1-M deg# -M1L2' by time ee%er# <o ree!s were then in sightD but in steering west, we %assed through a ri%%ling o! tide or current, and a single brea er was seen !rom the mast head, at three o'cloc , bearing 5# G# !our or !i"e miles# These ree!s lie nearly a degree to the eastward o! those !irst seen by the ca%tains /dwards and Bligh, when entering Torres' 5traitD !or the north&eastern eBtreme lies in 1, deg# 2' south, and 1-M deg# -M' east# From this %osition, the eastern line o! the brea ers eBtended ten or twel"e miles to the 5# 5# G#, and the single brea er a!terwards seen, lies about siB leagues to the G# <# G#D but how !ar they may be connected, or what the eBtent o! the ree!s may be to the south&west, could not be seen# 6n the belie! that this was the !irst disco"ery o! these coral ban s, 6 called them the A/astern FieldsAD intending thereby to designate their %osition with res%ect to the other ree!s o! Torres' 5trait# 8ur latitude at noon was eBactly that o! the o%ening by which ca%tain /dwards o! the Pandora had entered the 5trait in 1KI1D and which 6 call the APandora's /ntranceA# This o%ening a%%eared to be %re!erable to that !urther northward, by which ca%tain Bligh and Mr# Bam%ton had got within the ree!sD more es%ecially as it led directly !or Murray's 6slands, where, i! %ossible, 6 intended to anchor# 8ur course was there!ore steered westD and seeing no more ree!s, it was continued until eight in the e"ening, at which time we hauled to the wind, ha"ing no bottom at 1,M !athoms# F)6*A$ 2I 84T8B/) 1E,2 At daylight, a!ter sounding ine!!ectually with 1,, !athoms, we bore away on our western course# Two ree!s were seen at siB o'cloc D the one bearing <# by G#1L2 G# three, and the other G# by <# 1L2 <# !our miles# They seemed to be small, and unconnectedD but in all %robability were %arts o! those which !orm the north side o! the Pandora's /ntrance, and which ca%tain Bligh, who saw them more to the northward, named collecti"ely, Portloc 's )ee!# The situation o! the southernmost %art, deduced !rom the %receding and !ollowing noons, will be I deg# -E' south, and 1-- deg# -M' east# ./A5T 48A5T# T8))/5' 5T)A6T#3 A!ter %assing these ree!s, our course was west, by com%assD and nothing !urther was descried till ele"en o'cloc D brea ers then came in sight ahead, and we hauled u% north&east, till noonD when the obser"ed latitude !rom both sides was I deg# 2+' MMC, longitude 1-- deg# 12', and the de%th M, !athoms on a bottom o! !ine, white sand# The ree! was distant one mile and a hal! in the nearest %art, and three miles at the eBtremes, which bore <# 1M deg# /# and 5# +, deg# G#D a sand ban or ey u%on it bore G# 2L- 5#,

and is %robably dry at all times, !or it was then near high water# Finding by the latitude that we had been set considerably to the north, and were out o! the %arallel o! Murray's 6slands, 6 tac ed to the 5# 5# G#D and at two o'cloc , the largest island was seen bearing 5# 2E deg# G# about !i"e leagues# 5oon a!terward, a ree! came in sight to the south&east, eBtending in %atches toward the islandsD and %resently another was distinguished to the westward, !rom the mast head, which too nearly a %arallel direction, the %assage between them being about !our miles wide# Ge steered along the lee side o! the eastern ree!, at the distance o! a mile, with soundings !rom 2I to 2- !athoms, coral sand, until !our o'cloc D the ree! then trended more southward, and we edged away !or the islands, o! which Mr# Gestall s etched the a%%earance >Atlas Plate HV666# View 1,?# At hal! %ast !i"e, the largest island bore 5# 2+ deg# /# to 2E deg# G#, one mile and a hal!D and there being more ree!s coming in sight to the westward, the anchor was immediately let go in 2, !athoms, coarse sand and shells# The north and east sides o! the island are surrounded by a ree!, which may %robably include the two smaller isles on its southwest sideD but it is totally unconnected with the ree!s to the north&east# These a%%ear to be a northern continuation o! the "ast ban , on the outside o! which the Pandora sailed as !ar as 111L2 deg# south, and in the chart o! ca%tain /dwards' trac , %ublished by Mr# *alrym%le, it is mar ed as surrounding the islandsD whereas it is at least !our miles distant !rom the ree! which %robably does surround them# A number o! %oles standing u% in "arious %laces, more es%ecially between the islands, a%%eared at a distance li e the masts o! canoes, and made me a%%rehend that the inhabitants o! the 5trait had collected a !leet hereD but on a%%roaching nearer, the %oles were !ound to be u%on the ree!s, and were %robably set u% !or some %ur%ose connected with !ishing# Ge had scarcely anchored when between !orty and !i!ty 6ndians came o!!, in three canoes# They would not come along&side o! the shi%, but lay o!! at a little distance, holding u% cocoa nuts, joints o! bamboo !illed with water, %lantains, bows and arrows, and "oci!erating AtooreeO tooreeOA and AmammooseeOA A barter soon commenced, and was carried on in this manner( a hatchet, or other %iece o! iron >tooree? being held u%, they o!!ered a bunch o! green %lantains, a bow and @ui"er o! arrows, or what they judged would be recei"ed in eBchangeD signs o! acce%tance being made, the 6ndian lea%ed o"erboard with his barter, and handed it to a man who went down the side to himD and recei"ing his hatchet, swam bac to the canoe# 5ome deli"ered their articles without any distrust o! the eBchange, but this was not always the case# Their eagerness to get tooree was great, and at !irst, any thing o! that same metal was recei"edD but a!terwards, i! a nail were held u% to an 6ndian, he shoo his head, stri ing the edge o! his right hand u%on the le!t arm, in the attitude o! cho%%ingD and he was well enough understood# At sunset, two o! the canoes returned to Murray's 6sland, %addling to windward with more "elocity than one o! our boats could ha"e rowedD the third set a narrow, u%right sail, between two masts in the !ore %art o! the canoe, and steered north&westward, as 6 judged, !or the *arnley's 6sland o! ca%tain Bligh# 6 did not !orget that the inhabitants o! these islands had made an attac u%on the Pro"idence and Assistant in 1KI2 >Vol 6, 6ntroduction7?D nor that Mr# Bam%ton had some %eo%le cut o!! at *arnley's 6sland in 1KI2 >Vol 6, 6ntroduction77?# The marines were there!ore e%t under arms, the guns clear, and matches lightedD and o!!icers were stationed to watch e"ery motion, one to each canoe, so long as they remained near the shi%# Bows

and arrows were contained in all the canoesD but no intention o! hostility was mani!ested by the 6ndians, unless those who steered !or *arnley's 6sland might be su%%osed to go !or assistance# .7 C8n the Mth, boats were again sent to sound the %assage# 5e"eral large sailing canoes were seenD and the cutter ma ing the signal !or assistance, the %innace was sent to her, well manned and armed# 8n the return o! the boats in the a!ternoon, it a%%eared, that, o! !our canoes which used their e!!orts to get u% to the cutter, one succeeded# # # #C3 .77 CA!ter ha"ing gone entirely round the island, and seen nothing o! the object o! his research, Mr# *ell returned to the !irst co"eD where a great concourse o! nati"es, armed with bows, arrows, clubs, and lances, were assembled at the outs irt o! the wood# # # #C3 .5AT;)*A$ 2, 84T8B/) 1E,23 Ge did not get under way in the morning, until the sun was high enough !or altitudes to be ta en !or the time ee%ers# 5oon a!ter daylight, the nati"es were with us again, in se"en canoesD some o! them came under the stern, and !i!teen or twenty o! the %eo%le ascended on board, bringing in their hands %earl&oyster shells and nec laces o! cowriesD with which, and some bows and arrows, they obtained more o! the %recious AtooreeA# Gishing to secure the !riendshi% and con!idence o! these islanders to such "essels as might herea!ter %ass through Torres' 5trait, and not being able to distinguish any chie! amongst them, 6 selected the oldest man, and %resented him with a hand&saw, a hammer and nails, and some other tri!lesD o! all which we attem%ted to show him the use, but 6 belie"e without successD !or the %oor old man became !rightened, on !inding himsel! to be so %articularly noticed# At this time we began to hea"e short !or weighing, and made signs to the 6ndians to go down into their canoes, which they seemed unwilling to com%rehendD but on the seamen going alo!t to loose the sails, they went hastily down the stern ladder and shi%'s sides, and sho"ed o!!D and be!ore the anchor was u% they %addled bac to the shore, without our good understanding ha"ing su!!ered any interru%tion# The colour o! these 6ndians is a dar chocolateD they are acti"e, muscular men, about the middle siJe, and their countenances eB%ressi"e o! a @uic a%%rehension# Their !eatures and hair a%%eared to be similar to those o! the nati"es o! <ew 5outh Gales, and they also go @uite na edD but some o! them had ornaments o! shell wor , and o! %laited hair or !ibres o! bar , about their waists, nec s, and ancles# 8ur !riend Bongaree could not understand any thing o! their language, nor did they %ay much attention to himD he seemed, indeed, to !eel his own in!eriority, and made but a %oor !igure amongst them# The arms o! these %eo%le ha"e been described in the "oyage o! ca%tain Bligh >Vol 6, 6ntroduction7?D as also the canoes#, o! which the anneBed %late, !rom a drawing by Mr# Gestall, gi"es a correct re%resentation# The two masts, when not wanted, are laid along the gunwalesD when set u%, they stand abreast o! each other in the !ore %art o! the canoe, and seemed to be secured by one set o! shrouds, with a stay !rom one mast head to the other# The sail is eBtended between themD but when going with a side wind, the lee mast is brought a!t by a bac stay, and the sail then stands obli@uely# 6n other words, they brace u% by setting in the head o! the lee mast, and %erha%s the !oot alsoD and can then lie within se"en %oints o! the wind, and %ossibly nearer# This was their mode, so !ar as a distant "iew would admit o! judgingD but how these long canoes ee% to

the wind, and ma e such way as they do, without any a!ter sail, 6 am at a loss to now# .7 CTheir arms were bows, arrows, and clubs, which they bartered !or e"ery ind o! iron wor with eagernessD but a%%eared to set little "alue on any thing else# The bows are made o! s%lit bambooD and so strong, that no man in the shi% could bend one o! them# The string is a broad sli% o! cane, !iBed to one end o! the bowD and !itted with a noose, to go o"er the other end, when strung# The arrow is a cane o! about !our !eet long, into which a %ointed %iece o! the hard, hea"y, AcasuarinaA wood, is !irmly and neatly !ittedD and some o! them were barbed# Their clubs are made o! the AcasuarinaA, and are %ower!ul wea%ons# The hand %art is indented, and has a small nob, by which the !irmness o! the gras% is much assistedD and the hea"y end is usually car"ed with some de"ice( 8ne had the !orm o! a %arrot's head, with a ru!! round the nec D and was not ill done#C3 Murray's largest island is nearly two miles long, by something more than one in breadthD it is rather high land, and the hill at its western end may be seen !rom a shi%'s dec at the distance o! eight or nine leagues, in a clear day# The two smaller isles seemed to be single hills, rising abru%tly !rom the sea, and to be scarcely accessibleD nor did we see u%on them any !ires, or other mar s o! inhabitants# 8n the shores o! the large island were many huts, surrounded by %alisades, a%%arently o! bambooD cocoa&nut trees were abundant, both on the low grounds and the sides o! the hills, and %lantains, with some other !ruits, had been brought to us# There were many 6ndians sitting in grou%s u%on the shore, and the se"en canoes which came o!! to the shi% in the morning, contained !rom ten to twenty men each, or together, about a hundred# 6! we su%%ose these hundred men to ha"e been one hal! o! what belonged to the islands, and to the two hundred men add as many women and three hundred children, the %o%ulation o! Murray's 6sles will amount to se"en hundredD o! which nearly the whole must belong to the larger island# The AlatitudeA o! the highest hill, deduced !rom that o! the shi% at the !ollowing noon, is I deg# M-' south, and AlongitudeA by the time ee%er corrected, 1-- deg# 2' eastD being 2' north, and 2,' east o! its %osition by ca%tain /dwards# A regular tide o! about one not an hour set /# by 5# and G# by <#, %ast the shi%D and by her swinging, it was high water at hal! an hour a!ter midnight, or about Aten hours and a hal! a!terA the moon had %assed o"er the meridian# The bottom seemed to be loose at our anchorageD but were these islands eBamined, it is %robable that better ground and shelter would be !ound on their western sides# 6 distinguished !rom the mast head the north end o! a ree!, three miles distant to the G# <# G#D but could not see whether it joined the ree! surrounding the large island# At <# <# G# 2L- G# !our miles, was the south&west end o! another ree!D and when we got under way at hal! %ast eight in the morning, our course was directed between the two# )i%%lings o! a sus%icious a%%earance caused the whale boat to be e%t ahead !or some timeD but !inding no ground u%on them with 2, !athoms, and the breeJe becoming !resh, the boat was called on board# At Ih -,' the !ollowing bearings were ta en( *arnley's 6sland, highest %art, <# 2I deg# G# Murray's 6slands, the largest, 5# ME deg# to -, /# Murray's 6slands, two smaller, nearly touching, 5# 2+ to 2K /# )i%%ling o!! the <# end o! a ree!, dist# 1L2 mile, 5# G# 1L2 G# /ast end o! a ree!, distant 11L2 miles, <# + /#

Mr# Gestall's second "iew o! Murray's 6sles was ta en !rom this %osition# >Atlas Pl# HV666# View 11#? =nowing the di!!iculties eB%erienced by ca%tain Bligh and Mr# Bam%ton in the northern %art o! the strait, 6 e%t as much u% to the southward, !or 4a%e $or , as the direction o! the ree!s would admit# 8n the windward side, we had a long chain o! them eBtending G# 5# G# to a great distanceD but its breadth was not great, as the blue water was seen beyond it, !rom the mast head# 8n the north side there was no regular chain, and but one ree! o! much eBtentD small %atches were indeed announced e"ery now and then, !rom alo!t, but these did not cause us much im%edimentD the greatest was !rom two right in our trac D but being a mile a%art, we %assed between them at ele"en o'cloc # .<8)T9 48A5T# T8))/5' 5T)A6T#3 ;ntil noon, we had no soundings with !rom 2M to 2, !athoms o! line, but then !ound bro en coral and shells at the latter de%thD the great ree!s to windward were two or three miles distant, stretching south&west, and our situation and bearings were as under( 'atitude obser"ed, I deg# M21L2' 5# 'ongitude !rom time ee%er, 1-2 -2 /# Murray's 6sles, the largest, highest %art, 5# EE1L2 /# Murray's 6sles, the westernmost, highest %art, 5# E11L2 /# *arnley's 6#, highest %art, obscure, <# 1, /# A small, low isle, To the westward# <earest ree!, distant two miles, 5# +K deg# to <# -2 G# 9a"ing a !resh breeJe at 5# /# by /, we ran at the rate o! siB nots, !ollowing the chain o! ree!s lying to windward# 8n the other side, there were still "ery !ew ree!sD but se"eral low isles were distinguished, similar to that seen at noonD these were small, but seemingly well co"ered with wood, and a%%ertain, as 6 judge, to the grou% called by Mr# Bam%ton, 4ornwallis' )ange# At hal! %ast two, we %assed between ree!s one mile and a hal! asunder, ha"ing no ground at 2M !athomsD and then the chain which had been !ollowed !rom Murray's 6sles, either terminated or too a more southern direction# Another small, woody isle was then in sight, nearly in our trac , at !our it bore <# +K deg# G#, two&and&hal! milesD and not seeing any other island ahead to a!!ord shelter !or the night, we bore away round the south end o! its ree!, and came to an anchor in 1K !athoms, coral sand# 4ent# o! the island, dist# 11L- miles, bore, 5# E2 deg# /# The surrounding ree!, <# KE deg# to 5# 12 /# A woody isle, westmost o! !i"e seen this %# m#, <# I G# A dry sand, set !rom the mast head, 5# G#2L- 5# A boat was lowered down, and 6 went on shore with the botanical gentlemen, to loo about the island# 6t is little better than a ban o! sand, u%on a basis o! coral roc D yet it was co"ered with shrubs and trees so thic ly, that in many %laces they were im%enetrable# The north&western %art is entirely sand, but there grew u%on it numbers o!

A%andanusA trees, similar to those o! the east coast o! <ew 5outh GalesD and around many o! them was %laced a circle o! shells o! the Achama gigasA, or gigantic coc le, the intention o! which eBcited my curiosity# 6t a%%eared that this little island was "isited occasionally by the 6ndians, who obtained !rom it the !ruit o! the %andanus, and %robably turtle, !or the mar s o! them were seenD and the ree! !urnishes them with coc les, which are o! a su%erior siJe here to those we had !ound u%on the ree!s o! the /ast 4oast# There being no water u%on the island, they seem to ha"e hit u%on the !ollowing eB%edient to obtain it( 'ong sli%s o! bar are tied round the smooth stems o! the %andanus, and the loose ends are led into the shells o! the coc le, %laced underneath# By these sli%s, the rain which runs down the branches and stem o! the tree, is conducted into the shells, and !ills them at e"ery considerable showerD and as each shell will contain two or three %ints, !orty or !i!ty thus %laced under di!!erent trees will su%%ly a good number o! men# A %air o! these coc le shells, bleached in the sun, weighed a hundred and one %oundsD but still they were much in!erior in siJe to some 6 ha"e since seen# The !ruit o! the %andanus, as it is used by these 6ndians and by the nati"es o! Terra Australis, a!!ords "ery little nourishment# They suc the bottom %art o! the dru%es, or se%arated nuts, as we do the lea"es o! the articho eD but the @uantity o! %ul% thus obtained, is "ery small, and to my taste, too astringent to be agreeable# 6n the third "olume o! the Asiatic )esearches, the !ruit o! the %andanus is described as !urnishing, under the name o! AMelloriA, an im%ortant article o! !ood to the inhabitants o! the <icobar 6slandsD and in Mauritius, one o! these s%ecies is %lanted !or its long and !ibrous lea"es, o! which sac s, mats, and bags !or co!!ee and cotton are in a made# This little island, or rather the surrounding ree!, which is three or !our miles long, a!!ords shelter !rom the south&east windsD and being at a moderate day's run !rom Murray's 6sles, it !orms a con"enient anchorage !or the night to a shi% %assing through Torres' 5trait( 6 named it A9al!&way 6slandA# 6t is scarcely more than a mile in circum!erence, but a%%ears to be increasing both in ele"ation and eBtent# At no "ery distant %eriod o! time, it was one o! those ban s %roduced by the washing u% o! sand and bro en coral, o! which most ree!s a!!ord instances, and those o! Torres' 5trait a great many# These ban s are in di!!erent stages o! %rogress( some, li e this, are become islands, but not yet habitableD some are abo"e high&water mar , but destitute o! "egetationD whilst others are o"er!lowed with e"ery returning tide# 6t seems to me, that when the animalcules which !orm the corals at the bottom o! the ocean, cease to li"e, their structures adhere to each other, by "irtue either o! the glutinous remains within, or o! some %ro%erty in salt waterD and the interstices being gradually !illed u% with sand and bro en %ieces o! coral washed by the sea, which also adhere, a mass o! roc is at length !ormed# Future races o! these animalcules erect their habitations u%on the rising ban , and die in their turn to increase, but %rinci%ally to ele"ate, this monument o! their wonder!ul labours# The care ta en to wor %er%endicularly in the early stages, would mar a sur%rising instinct in these diminuti"e creatures# Their wall o! coral, !or the most %art in situations where the winds are constant, being arri"ed at the sur!ace, a!!ords a shelter, to leeward o! which their in!ant colonies may be sa!ely sent !orthD and to this their instincti"e !oresight it seems to be owing, that the windward side o! a ree! eB%osed to the o%en sea, is generally, i! not always the highest %art, and rises almost %er%endicular, sometimes !rom the de%th o!

2,,, and %erha%s many more !athoms# To be constantly co"ered with water, seems necessary to the eBistence o! the animalcules, !or they do not wor , eBce%t in holes u%on the ree!, beyond low&water mar D but the coral sand and other bro en remnants thrown u% by the sea, adhere to the roc , and !orm a solid mass with it, as high as the common tides reach# That ele"ation sur%assed, the !uture remnants, being rarely co"ered, lose their adhesi"e %ro%ertyD and remaining in a loose state, !orm what is usually called a A eyA, u%on the to% o! the ree!# The new ban is not long in being "isited by sea birdsD salt %lants ta e root u%on it, and a soil begins to be !ormedD a cocoa nut, or the dru%e o! a %andanus is thrown on shoreD land birds "isit it and de%osit the seeds o! shrubs and treesD e"ery high tide, and still more e"ery gale, adds something to the ban D the !orm o! an island is gradually assumedD and last o! all comes man to ta e %ossession# 9al!&way 6sland is well ad"anced in the abo"e %rogressi"e stateD ha"ing been many years, %robably some ages, abo"e the reach o! the highest s%ring tides, or the wash o! the sur! in the hea"iest gales# 6 distinguished, howe"er, in the roc which !orms its basis, the sand, coral, and shells !ormerly thrown u%, in a more or less %er!ect state o! cohesionD small %ieces o! wood, %umice stone, and other eBtraneous bodies which chance had miBed with the calcareous substances when the cohesion began, were inclosed in the roc D and in some cases were still se%arable !rom it without much !orce# The u%%er %art o! the island is a miBture o! the same substances in a loose state, with a little "egetable soilD and is co"ered with the AcasuarinaA and a "ariety o! other trees and shrubs, which gi"e !ood to %aro@uets, %igeons, and some other birdsD to whose ancestors it is %robable, the island was originally indebted !or this "egetation# The latitude o! 9al!&way 6sland, deduced !rom that o! the %receding and !ollowing noons, is 1, deg# E' south, and longitude by time ee%er corrected, 1-2 deg# 1E' east# From the time o! anchoring, to nine at night, there was a set %ast the shi% to the north&east, o! hal! a notD it ceased !or three hours, then recommencing at a slower rate, ran to the same %oint# Thus !ar in the strait, the current had been !ound to run at the rate o! !ourteen miles a day to the westwardD and the abo"e set might ha"e been an eddy under the lee o! the ree!, !or it seemed too irregular to be a tide# .5;<*A$ 21 84T8B/) 1E,23 At daylight in the morning the south&east trade blew !resh with s@ually weather# Ge steered south&westward, %assing at se"en o'cloc between two dry sands, three or !our miles a%art, with a de%th o! 1M !athomsD at eight, another dry ban was le!t two miles to the southward, and a small, low island set at <# by G#, two or three leagues# From this time, and running at the rate o! se"en nots, nothing was seen until tenD a dry sand then bore <# KE deg# G#, two miles and a hal!, and two more low isles were seen to the northwardD the soundings had become regular, between 1, and I !athoms, and the bottom was o! miBed sand and shells, !it !or anchorage# 8ur latitude at noon was 1, deg# 2+' -MC, and longitude 1-2 deg# 2I1L2'D and we had high land bearing 5# 2 deg# /# ten or twel"e miles, which 6 su%%osed might be the easternmost o! the $or 6sles, although ca%tain 4oo 's longitude o! it was 2E' more westward# The weather being haJy, no other land was seen, nor any ree!sD but at one o'cloc , 6 set these bearings(

$or 6sle, high !lat to%, 5# 2M deg# /# A more northern, double isle, 5# E- G# A high %ea ed hill >Mt# /rnest o! Bligh?, <# 1+ G# .<8)T9 48A5T# P)6<4/ 8F GA'/5' 65'A<*5#3 At two o'cloc , when we %assed on the north side o! the double isle, it was seen to be surrounded with a coral ree!, and there were roc s on its west and south sides# Ge then hauled ti% 5# G# by 5# !or some roc y islets lying, as 6 su%%osed, o!! 4a%e $or D but !inding no shelter there, bore away round the north end o! an island, o! which Mr# Gestall too a "iew >Atlas, Plate HV666# View 12?, and anchored in K !athoms, gra"el and shells, one mile and a hal! !rom the land, and two or three cables length !rom a shoal to the southward, which became dry at low water# 8ur latitude here was 1, deg# 2,' !rom bearings, and longitude by time& ee%er 1-2>N illegible in boo ? 1E1L2' eastD but 6 was altogether at a loss to now what islands these were, under which we had anchored# 5u%%osing the !lat&to%%ed island to ha"e been the easternmost $or 6sle, the land we had in sight to the southward should ha"e been 4a%e $or D but no such isles as those around us were laid down by ca%tain 4oo , to the north o! that ca%e# 8n consulting the s etch made by ca%tain Bligh in the Bounty's launch >Voyage to the 5outh 5eas, %# 22,?, it a%%eared that the !irst land was not the easternmost isle, but one much nearer to 4a%e $or D and that our anchorage was under the southern grou% o! the Prince o! Gales' 6slands, the longitude o! which, by ca%tain 4oo , is 1 deg# 12' west o! what 6 ma e it#7 The north&eastern isle o! this grou%, under which we more immediately lay, is that named Gednesday 6sland by ca%tain BlighD to the other isles he ga"e no nameD but the one westward o! the shi% seems to ha"e been the 9ammond's 6sland o! ca%tain /dwards, when %assing here with the Pandora's boats# 5o soon as the weather cleared a little, the subjoined bearings were ta en# .7 Mr# Gales deduces !rom ca%tain 4oo 's obser"ations in the /ndea"our, that the error o! his chart here, is 2M' west >AAstron# 8bser"ationsA, %# 121?#3 Gednesday 6#, distant 11L2 to 2 miles, 5# EI deg# /# to 21 deg# G# 9ammond's 6sle, dist# - or M miles, 5# M2 G# to K1 G# 9aw esbury 6# >o! /dwards?, highest %art, <# M2 G# Mount Augustus >o! Bligh?, <# 2 G# A small isle, distant three leagues, <# 2- /# Mount /rnest, %ea , <# 2+ /# *ouble 6sle, %assed at 2 %#m#, <# K,1L2 /# Brea ers on a ree!, distant 21L2 miles, <# +- to 2, G# .M8<*A$ 1 <8V/MB/) 1E,23 This e"ening and all the neBt day, the wind blew so strong that it was im%ossible to landD nor did 6 thin it %rudent to @uit the anchorage, though anBious to commence the sur"ey o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# ;%on 9ammond's 6sland some !ires were seenD but Gednesday 6sland showed no signs o! being inhabited, unless some whitish, conical !igures li e sentry boBes, were hutsD there were bushes and small trees scattered o"er both islands, but their general a%%earance was roc y and barren# The tide here ran nine hours to the westward, at the strongest

two&and&hal! notsD and three hours north&eastward, but scarcely %erce%tibleD which de"iation !rom the regular order was %robably caused by the current setting westward# 5o !ar as the soundings ta en e"ery hour could ascertain the rise, it was at least two !athoms, and high water too %lace A!our or !i"e hours a!terA the moon's %assage o"er and under the meridian, and was com%leted by the three hours tide# According to this, it would be high water here, and low water at Murray's 6slands at the same time, which would %resent a remar able analogy between this strait and that o! Bass to the southwardD this howe"er is certain, that the tide set /# by 5# one not and a @uarter, at Murray's 6slands, at !our in the morningD and that two days a!terward, at Gednesday 6sland, it set !rom one&and&hal! to two&and&hal! nots G# by 5#, !rom one till se"en in the morning# 6 will not "enture to say that the latter %art o! the !lood comes !rom southwest at the Prince o! Gales' 6slands, though a%%earances bes%o e itD because ca%tain 4oo , who had better o%%ortunity !or obser"ation, !ound it setting !rom the east, in /ndea"our's 5trait# 9e also gi"es the time o! high water at one or two hours a!ter the moon, which comes nearer to what 6 obser"ed at Murray's 6slands# From aJimuths with the sur"eying com%ass when the head was 5# /# by /#, the "ariation was 2 deg# 22', or corrected to the meridian, - deg# M2' east# T;/5*A$ 2 <8V/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning o! <o"# 2, the wind being more moderate and at /# 5# /#, we steered between 9ammond's 6sland and the north&western ree!, with soundings !rom + to I !athoms# Another island a%%eared beyond 9ammond's, to the south&west, which, as it had no name, 6 called AGood's 6slandA, a!ter Mr# Good, the botanical gardenerD and we hauled u% !or it, %assing a roc and a small ree! between the two# 8n seeing an eBtensi"e shoal ahead, which would ha"e carried us o!! the land to go round it, we anchored in K !athoms, dead coral and shells, with the north end o! 9ammond's 6sland bearing <# +- deg# /#, !our or !i"e miles# The botanical gentlemen landed on Good's 6slandD and in the a!ternoon 6 too these bearings amongst others, !rom a hill near its south&west end# The shi%, distant 11L- miles, <# ME deg# ,' G# Gallis' 6sles, o"er the 5hoal 4a%e o! Bligh, 5# 22 M G# Booby 6sle, centre, 5# E, , G# <orthern isles, the westernmost "isible, <# 2E deg# 1,' to 2- M G# 9aw esbury 6sland, <# I 1M to - , G# <orth&west ree!, its a%%arent termination, <# 2E M, G# The shoal which sto%%ed our %rogress did not run o!! !rom 5hoal 4a%e, as ca%tain Bligh had su%%osed, but !rom a smaller and nearer island, two miles !rom my station# Githin the large island, o! which 5hoal 4a%e !orms the north&western %oint, 6 saw water li e an inclosed %ort, %robably the Gol!'s Bay o! ca%tain /dwardsD and it seemed %ossible that the land may be there di"idedD but the best in!ormation 6 can gi"e o! the !orms and eBtent o! all these islands, will be seen in the %articular chart# 6t was now ascertained, that the !igures resembling sentry boBes were ant hills, o! eight or more !eet highD Pelsert !ound similar hills on the Gest 4oast, and says they might ha"e been ta en !or the houses o! 6ndians, as in !act we did ta e them at a distant "iew# They were also seen by *am%ier on the <orth&west 4oast, who mistoo them in the same wayD but says he !ound them to be so many roc s, %robably !rom not ma ing

the eBamination with his usual care# The insects which inhabit, and 6 su%%ose erect these structures, are small, reddish, with blac heads, and seemed to be a sluggish and !eeble race# Ge !ound the common blac !lies eBcessi"ely numerous hereD and almost as troublesome as *am%ier describes them to be on the <orth&west 4oast# Good's 6sland is between one and two miles long, and resembles the rest o! the cluster in being hilly, woody, and roc y, with small beaches on the leeward side# The stone is granitic and brittleD but there is also %or%hyry, and in one %lace 6 !ound strea s o! "erdegrease, as i! the cli!!s abo"e had contained co%%er ore# A log o! wood, resembling the cedar o! Port :ac son, was thrown u% on the beach, but none o! the trees were seenD those scattered o"er the island, though o! "arious inds, were small and !it !or little else than the !ire# A s%ecies o! sil &cotton %lant was %lenti!ulD the !ibres in the %od are strong, and ha"e a !ine gloss, and might %erha%s be ad"antageously em%loyed in manu!acture# From two su%%lements o! the sun's meridian altitude to the north, the AlatitudeA o! our anchorage would be 1, deg# 2-' 12CD but the su%%lements obser"ed on the 21st ha"ing gi"en 1' 1-C too !ar south, the correct latitude is ta en to be 1, deg# 22' MEC# The AlongitudeA !rom nine sets o! distances o! the sun west o! the moon, was 1-2 deg# 22'D but by the corrected time ee%er, which 6 %re!er, it was 1-2 deg# 1,1L2' east# To com%are this longitude with that o! ca%tain 4oo , it must be reduced to some %oint distinctly laid down by him, and 6 ta e Booby 6sland, which was in sight# According to that na"igator, Booby 6sle is in 1-, deg# 2E' east >9aw esworth, 666, 21-?D whereas 6 made it to lie in 1-1 deg# MK', or 1 deg# 1I' !urther east, a di!!erence which certainly a%%ears "ery eBtraordinaryD but it is still more so, that the island should be laid down +2' o! longitude to the west o! the high, !lat&to%%ed $or 6sle, instead 8! -2' or --'# To show that the longitude by my time ee%er was not much, i! any thing too great, 6 ha"e to obser"e, that in ca%tain Bligh's manuscri%t chart o! 1KI2, Mount Augustus is laid down !rom his time ee%ers in 1-2 deg# 1-'D and the mean o! his lunar obser"ations, ta en eight days be!ore and siB days a!terward, was 1+' Amore eastA# My time ee%er now %laced Mount Augustus in 1-2 deg# 1E', or only -' more east than ca%tain Bligh's chart, conse@uently in 12' less than by his lunar obser"ationsD by which @uantity it was also less than the nine sets o! distances now ta en by lieutenant Flinders# <o run o! tide was %erce%tible at the anchorage, !rom eight in the morning to two %#m#D but it then set westward, and continued so to do until !our neBt morning, and was then running one not and a hal!# The time o! high water a%%eared by the soundings, to be nearly as they ga"e it at Gednesday 6sland# G/*</5*A$ 2 <8V/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning o! the 2rd, the wind was moderate at /# 5# /#, and we made sail to get in with the main land to the south o! the Prince o! Gales' 6slands# 6n hauling round the dry %art o! the shoal, we !ell into 2 !athoms, and were obliged to steer round o!!D nor was it until a!ter many attem%ts, and running !our or !i"e miles !urther to the south&westward, that the shoal would allow us to steer a southern course# At Eh -M', being then in M !athoms, Booby 6sle bore, <# M+ deg# G# 4a%e 4ornwall, 5# ME /# 5tation on Good's 6sland, dist# 11 miles <# M-1L2 /#

From hence we carried + to K !athoms until %ast ten, and a!terwards irregular soundings between 2 and I !athoms, to noonD the latitude !rom a su%%lement to the north, with the same correction as a%%lied on the 2nd, was then 1, deg# M,' --C, and the bearings o! the land were theseD 5tation on Good's 6sland, <# 2I1L2 deg# /# 4a%e 4ornwall, <# +E /# Gallis' 6sles, the highest, distant 21L2 miles, <# E- /# Gallis' 6sles, a lower and broader, dist# 2 or - miles, 5# K1 deg# to +- /# Main land, low sandy %oint, dist# E miles, 5# -2 /# Main land, !urthest eBtreme near a smo e, 5# KK /# Between 4a%e 4ornwall and the low main land abo"e set, is the o%ening called in the old *utch chart, 5%eult's )i"erD but which ca%tain 4oo , who sailed through it, named /ndea"our's 5trait# Gallis' 6sles are small, low, and roc y, and the northernmost seemed destitute o! "egetationD they are surrounded with sandy shoals, which a%%eared to connect with the main land and lea"e no shi% %assage between them# 8n the north side o! the isles there are se"eral ban s at the outlet o! /ndea"our's 5traitD and the %assage this way into the 6ndian 8cean is thereby rendered much in!erior to that between Gednesday 6sland and the north&west ree!, in which there are no di!!iculties# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 Ge %assed Gallis' 6sles, steering southward to get in with the main coastD but the shoals !orced us to run se"en or eight miles to the west, out o! sight o! land, be!ore regular soundings could be obtained and a southern course steered into the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# At dus , the anchor was dro%%ed in E !athoms, so!t mud, in latitude 11 deg# M', as obser"ed !rom the moon to the north and south, and longitude 1-1 deg# M1' by time ee%er# The "ariation !rom am%litude at sunset, was 2 deg# 22', with the shi%'s head 5# 5# /#, or 2 deg# 1,' east when reduced to the meridianD which is 1 deg# -2' less than was obtained !rom aJimuths under Gednesday 6sland# 6 now considered all the di!!iculties o! Torres' 5trait to be surmounted, since we had got a !air entry into the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD and to ha"e accom%lished this, be!ore the north&west monsoon had made any strong indications, was a source o! much satis!action, a!ter the uneB%ected delay amongst the Barrier )ee!s on the /ast 4oast# 6t was this a%%rehension o! the north&west monsoon that %re"ented me !rom ma ing any !urther eBamination o! the 5trait, than what could be done in %assing through itD but e"en this was not without its ad"antage to na"igation, since it demonstrated that this most direct %assage, !rom the southern Paci!ic, or Great 8cean to the 6ndian 5eas, may be accom%lished Ain three daysA# 6t may be remembered, that the ree!s on the north side o! the Pandora's /ntrance were %assed at siB in the morning o! 8ct# 2ID and that, a!ter lying two nights at anchor, we reached the Prince o! Gales's 6slands at three in the a!ternoon o! the 21stD and nothing then %re"ented us !rom %assing Booby 6sle, had 6 wished it, and clearing Torres' 5trait be!ore dus # 8ur route was almost wholly to see , and another shi% which shall ha"e that route laid down to her, may surely accom%lish the %assage in the same timeD it must howe"er be ac nowledged, that this na"igation is not without di!!iculties and dangersD but 6 had great ho%e o! ob"iating many o! them, and e"en o! !inding a more direct %assage by the

south o! Murray's 6slands in the !ollowing year, when 6 should ha"e the assistance o! the 'ady <elson in ma ing a sur"ey o! the 5trait# 49APT/) V6# /Bamination o! the coast on the east side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# 'anding at 4oen )i"er# 9ead o! the Gul%h# Anchorage at 5weers' 6sland# 6nter"iew with 6ndians at 9orse&shoe 6sland# 6n"estigator's )oad# The shi% !ound to be in a state o! decay# General remar s on the islands at the 9ead o! the Gul%h, and their inhabitants# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 T9;)5*A$ - <8V/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning o! <o"# -, the wind was at south&east, and we steered southward, close to it, with soundings !rom E to 11 !athoms# 5e"eral land birds o! the siJe o! a %igeon, but more slender, came o!! to the shi%D when ta en they !ought des%erately, being armed !or war with a strong claw u%on each wing# This bird had been seen at Port Phili% on the 5outh 4oast, and belongs to the genus ATringaA, being "ery nearly allied to the ATringa GoensisA# At noon, the latitude was 11 deg# 2-1L2', longitude 1-1 deg# -+1L2'D and at three, a sea breeJe which set in !rom south&west, enabled us to steer in !or the coast o! 4ar%entaria on the east side o! the Gul%hD and it came in sight !rom the mast head soon a!terwards# At !i"e, the nearest %art was siB or eight miles distant, and the eBtremes bore <# /# to 5# 5# /#D the de%th o! water was 1, !athoms, which decreased to K1L2 at dus , when we anchored on a bottom o! gra"el and shellsD the shore being then distant !our miles, and the eBtremes bearing <# 2E deg# to 5# E deg# /# 6t was sandy and low, li e that on the south side o! /ndea"our's 5trait, with which it is no doubt connectedD although, in a s%ace o! !i"e or siB leagues, our distance was too great !or the land to be seenD behind the shore it was indi!!erently co"ered with shrubs and small trees, but totally destitute o! any thing li e a hill( !ires bes%o e it to be inhabited# There was no set o! tide %ast the shi% in the night, but the de%th o! water diminished !rom K1L2 to +1L- !athoms# F)6*A$ M <8V/MB/) 1E,2 Ghen we got under way in the morning to %roceed along shore, the wind was light, o!! the land, and soon a!ter nine it !ell calmD a drain o! tide setting to the north&east, induced me to dro% a stream anchor, !our or !i"e miles !rom a %art o! the beach where some nati"es were collected round a !ire# At ele"en the sea breeJe came in !rom G# by <#, with dar cloudy weather, and we steered onward, %assing a small o%ening at one o'cloc , !our or !i"e miles south o! the nati"es# A much larger o%ening came in sight at two, into which 6 ho%ed to get the shi%D but the water was so shallow at !i"e or siB miles o!!, that we were obliged to tac D and a!ter ma ing a second ine!!ectual attem%t, it became dus , and we anchored in +1L2 !athoms, !ine dar sand, the centre o! the o%ening bearing 5# 2K deg# /# three leagues# The coast was low, as be!ore, but the trees u%on it were taller# The largest o%ening is about two miles wide, leading in south&eastD but

turning a!terwards more east, and a%%arently contracting its width# <ear the south&west %oint o! the entrance, which %rojects a little !rom the general line o! the shore, was a clum% o! trees, higher than usual, %resenting the !irst mar 6 had yet !ound !or bearings# The latitude o! this o%ening is 11 deg# MM', and agrees nearly with that o! Bata"ia )i"er in the old *utch chartD but the shoal which runs siB miles out, seemed to render it inaccessible to a shi%# 5AT;)*A$ + <8V/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning we had a breeJe o!! the landD and the !ear o! the north&west monsoon %re"enting me !rom ta ing time to beat u%, we %assed Bata"ia )i"er at the distance o! siB miles, with soundings !rom M to E !athoms# 5e"eral !loc s o! duc s were seen coming !rom the westward, where they had %robably been to %ass the night u%on some island not inhabited# 8ur latitude at noon, !rom double altitudes, was 11 deg# M+', and longitude by time ee%er 1-1 deg# M,'D the clum% o! trees near the entrance o! Bata"ia )i"er bore /# 1 deg# 5#, the !urthest eBtreme o! the land, 5# 11 deg# G#, and the nearest %art was distant !our miles# The land wind continued to blow all day, but %ermitted us to lie along the shore# 8n its !alling calm toward sunset, we anchored in 1, !athoms, so!t mud, three or !our miles !rom the coastD the eBtremes bearing <# -I deg# /# and 5# 2 deg# G# A light air came o!! the land at !our in the morning .5;<*A$ K <8V/MB/) 1E,23, and at daylight we again steered southwardD but in two hours the wind died o!!, and an anchor was dro%%ed in I !athoms# There was a small o%ening at /# M deg# 5#, about three milesD and the botanical gentlemen being desirous o! seeing the %roductions o! this %art o! the country, the whale boat was lowered down, and we went to eBamine the inlet# 8n a%%roaching the entrance, a canoe, or something li e one, %assed and re%assed !rom the north to the south side, the rower using both hands to the %addle li e the nati"es o! Murray's 6slands# Ge had a good deal o! di!!iculty to get in, on account o! the shoalsD the channel amongst them being narrow and winding, and not more than nine to twel"e !eet dee%# 8n the north side was a %arty o! nati"es, and Bongaree went on shore to them, na ed and unarmedD but although %ro"ided with s%ears, they retreated !rom him, and all our endea"ours to bring about an inter"iew were unsuccess!ul# 6t was not sa!e !or the gentlemen to botanise in %resence o! these sus%icious %eo%leD and there!ore we rowed a mile higher u%, to a green loo ing %oint on the same side, and landed about noon# The de%th thus !ar, was 2 !athomsD and 6 could see two&and&hal! miles !urther u% the inlet to the /# 5# /#, where it turned more southward, round a woody %ointD and !rom the strength o! the tide, %robably eBtended some miles into the country# Ghilst the botanists where ma ing their eBamination and 6 wal ed along the shore to shoot some birds, se"eral "oices were heard in the wood, as o! %eo%le ad"ancing towards usD and there being too much o%%ortunity here to cree% on secretly, we assembled and retired into the boat, to wait their a%%roach# A sea breeJe had then set inD and the 6ndians not a%%earing, we rowed bac to the !irst %lace, where the country was o%enD and the gentlemen botanised whilst centinels e%t watch on the sandy hilloc s# 6n the u%%er %arts o! the %ort the country was well co"ered with wood, mostly Aeucaly%tusAD but near the entrance it was little better than bare sand, with some scattered trees o! the AcasuarinaA and A%andanus(A a

stone o! im%er!ectly concreted coral sand and shells !ormed the basis# Foot mar s o! the angaroo were im%rinted on the sand, and a dog was seenD dru%es o! the %andanus, which had been suc ed, lay in e"ery direction, and small coc le shells were scattered on the beaches# 6 sought in "ain !or the canoe which had landed here, nor did 6 !ind any huts o! the nati"es# Be!ore @uitting the shore, a hatchet was made !ast to the branch o! a tree, and set u% cons%icuously near the water side# Ge had scarcely sho"ed o!!, when the %arty o! 6ndians, siBteen in number, made their a%%earance and called to usD but when the boat's head was turned toward them, they ran away# 8n the south side o! the entrance were !our other nati"es, who also ran at our a%%roachD we there!ore set u% another hatchet !or them on the beach, and returned bac to the shi%# These %eo%le were all na edD and in colour, as in e"ery thing else, seemed to ha"e a %er!ect resemblance to the inhabitants o! the east and south coasts o! Terra Australis# 6n Torres' 5trait bows and arrows are the o!!ensi"e wea%onsD but here we saw s%ears only( each man had se"eral in his hand, and something which was su%%osed to be a throwing stic # This small o%ening a%%ears to be the A4oen )i"erA o! the *utch chartD but the entrance is too small and shallow to admit any thing larger than boats( its latitude is 12 deg# 12' south, and longitude 1-1 deg# -K' eastD and the "ariation o! the com%ass, obser"ed with the shi%'s head in the magnetic meridian, was - deg# 2+' east# The tide was running !rom south&west, at ten in in the morning, and on entering the inlet it was !ound to be setting in with considerable strengthD at two in the a!ternoon the !lood was still runningD and admitting that it would be high water an hour a!terwards, as seemed %robable, the time would be A!i"e hours and a hal! a!terA the moon %assed the lower meridianD or an hour later than it had Aa%%earedA to be at the Prince o! Gales' 6slands# 'ieutenant Fowler had got the shi% under way, on the sea breeJe setting in, and stood o!! and on the entrance to 4oen )i"er, until our return at three o'cloc # Ge then steered south&westward along the shoreD and soon a!ter sunset, anchored in 1, !athoms, nearly !our miles !rom the land, which eBtended !rom <# 2E deg# to 5# + deg# /# and was still low and woody, and !ronted with a sandy beach# A breeJe came o!! the land at night, as usual, and the weather was dar and s@ually# /arly in the morning .M8<*A$ E <8V/MB/) 1E,23 we steered along the coast, with good soundings between 1, and I !athoms, muddy bottom# A sandy %oint with two hilloc s on it, which had been the eBtreme o! the %receding e"ening, was %assed at ten o'cloc D and seeing a large bight round it, we tac ed to wor u%# At noon, the %oint bore !rom <# -- deg# /#, one mile and a hal!, to the southern eBtreme at east, three miles# This %oint is one o! the "ery !ew remar able %rojections to be !ound on this low coast, but it is not noticed in the *utch chartD there is little doubt, howe"er, that it was seen in 1+,+, in the yacht *uy!hen, the !irst "essel which disco"ered any %art o! 4ar%entariaD and that the remembrance may not be lost, 6 ga"e the name o! the "essel to the %oint# 8ur obser"ations %laced the south eBtreme o! A*uy!hen PointA in 12 deg# 2M' south, and 1-1 deg# -2' eastD and the "ariation !rom am%litude, with the shi%s head G# <# G#, was M deg# 2-', or reduced to the meridian, 2 deg# -2' east# 8n the sea breeJe setting in at two o'cloc , we steered into the bight until %ast !i"eD when ha"ing no more than 21L2 !athoms, we tac ed and stretched out# The bight eBtends ele"en or twel"e miles bac !rom the

line o! the coast, and there are three small o%enings in itD but the shore being "ery low, and in many %laces o"er&run with mangro"es, and the water shallow !our or !i"e miles o!!, these o%enings are %robably no more than drains out o! salt swam%s or lagoons# The bearings when we tac ed in 21L2 !athoms, were, *uy!hen Point, south eBtreme, dist# + or K miles, <# +2 deg# G# 5mall o%ening behind it, distant M or + miles, <# 22 G# A second o%ening, distant !our miles, <# +- /# A third, distant three miles, 5# KE /# At eight in the e"ening, ha"ing reached out o! the bight, and a breeJe coming o!! the land, we steered southward until hal! %ast tenD and then anchored in E !athoms, muddy bottom# 6n the morning .T;/5*A$ I <8V/MB/) 1E,23, 6 set the west eBtreme o! *uy!hen Point at <# I deg# /#D and the !urthest land in the o%%osite direction, at 5# I deg# /# This land !orms the south side o! the large bightD and besides %rojecting beyond the coast line, and being a little higher than usual, is remar able !or ha"ing some reddish cli!!s in it, and dee% water near the shore# 6t is not noticed in the *utch chartD but 6 called it APera 9eadA, to %reser"e the name o! the second "essel which, in 1+22, sailed along this coast# >Atlas, Plate H6V#? Pera 9ead was %assed at the distance o! one mile and a hal!, at noon, with I !athoms waterD and the most %rojecting %art o! the cli!!s !ound to be in 12 deg# ME1L2' south, and 1-1 deg# -,' east# The sea breeJe had then set in, and we steered southward till %ast !our o'cloc D when a decrease in the soundings to 2 !athoms, obliged us to tac at a league !rom the landD and the wind being at 5# G#, we wor ed along shore till ten in the e"ening, and then anchored in + !athoms, ooJy bottom# At daylight .G/*</5*A$ 1, <8V/MB/) 1E,23, the land was seen to be !i"e miles distant, e@ually low and sandy as be!oreD and a small o%ening in it, %erha%s not accessible to boats, bore 5# KI deg# /# 8n getting under way again, we closed in with the shore and steered along it at the distance o! two or three miles, in soundings !rom 2 to K !athoms until noonD our latitude was then 12 deg# -2' 2MC, longitude 1-1 deg# 22', being nearly the %osition o! A4a%e =eer&GeerA, at which the yacht *uy!hen ga"e u% her eBamination# 6 could see nothing li e a ca%e hereD but the southern eBtreme o! the land, seen !rom the mast head, %rojects a littleD and !rom res%ect to anti@uity, the *utch name is there %reser"ed# At !our o'cloc we %assed the southern eBtremity o! 4a%e =eer&Geer, round which the coast !alls bac somewhatD the water then became more shallow, and did not admit o! being sa!ely a%%roached nearer than !our miles# An o%ening is laid down here in the *utch chart, called Vereenigde )i"er, which certainly has no eBistence# All this a!ternoon the sea breeJe was !resh and !a"ourableD and by eight o'cloc , when we anchored in M !athoms, the distance run !rom noon eBceeded !orty miles# A !ire was seen on the land about !our miles o!!, and some smo es had been %assed in the dayD so that the country should seem to be at least as well %eo%led in this %art o! 4ar%entaria as !urther northward# The coast was, i! %ossible, still lower than be!oreD not a single hill had yet been seenD and the to%s o! the trees on the highest land, had scarcely eBceeded the height o! the shi%'s mast head# T9;)5*A$ 11 <8V/MB/) 1E,2

The land wind came !rom <# <# /#D and in the morning our course was %ursued along the shore at the usual distance# At eight o'cloc the de%th decreased to 21L2 !athoms, and obliged us to steer o!!, though !i"e miles !rom the landD and when !air soundings were obtained, the to%s o! the trees only were "isible !rom the dec # At noon we had closed in again, the shore being distant !i"e or siB miles, and the de%th + !athoms on a gra"elly bottomD our latitude was 1- deg# M1' MC, longitude 1-1 deg# 22', the eBtremes seen !rom the dec bore <# 2I deg# to 5# ++ deg# /#, and a smo e was seen rising at 5# 2E deg# /# The sea breeJe came in !rom the south&westwardD but the trending o! the coast being nearly 5# 5# /#, we lay along it until %ast !our o'cloc , and then tac ed o!!, in 2 !athomsD the nearest %art o! the land being distant two or three miles, and the eBtremes bearing <# 2 deg# and 5# K deg# G# At eight in the e"ening the breeJe died away, and a stream anchor was dro%%ed in M !athoms, mud and shells, !i"e or siB miles o!! shoreD where the latitude !rom an obser"ation o! the moon was 1M deg# M' south# F)6*A$ 12 <8V/MB/) 1E,2 At sunrise, neBt morning, the shi% was steering southward with a land wind at eastD and at se"en o'cloc we %assed an o%ening near which se"eral nati"es were collected# The entrance seemed to be a !ull mile in widthD but a s%it !rom the south side runs so !ar across, that there is %robably no access to it, unless !or rowing boats( its latitude is 1M deg# 12' south, corres%onding with a bight in the *utch chart to the south o! the second AGater PlaetsAD and the "ariation, with the shi%'s head in the meridian, was - deg# -2' east# 8ur course southward was continued at two or three miles !rom the shore, in 2 to - !athomsD but at ele"en o'cloc , the sea breeJe ha"ing then set in, the de%th diminished suddenly to 2 !athomsD and in tac ing, the shi% stirred u% the mud# The latitude at noon was 1M deg# 2M' 2,C, and longitude 1-1 deg# 22'D at one o'cloc we steered 5# 5# G#, with the whale boat ahead, and carried !rom - to + !athoms until se"en in the e"ening, when the stream anchor was dro%%ed about !our miles !rom the shore, in M !athoms, muddy bottom# This de%th had diminished at daylight .5AT;)*A$ 12 <8V/MB/) 1E,23 to 22L!athoms, a!ter a tide had been setting nine hours to the <# by /#D and !or the !irst time u%on this coast it had run with some strength, the rate being one mile an hour# Ge were again under way soon a!ter !i"e o'cloc D and at siB, being then !our miles !rom the land, and steering 5# 5# G#, a lagoon was seen !rom the mast head, o"er the !ront beach# 6t has doubtless some communication with the sea, either by a constant, or a tem%orary o%ening, but none such could be %ercei"ed# The latitude 1M deg# M2' corres%onds with that o! A<assau )i"erA in the old chartD and !rom the eBam%les already had o! the *utch ri"ers here, it seems %robable that this lagoon was meant# A !ew miles !urther south, the shoal water obliged me to run westward, out o! sight o! land !rom the dec D and e"en at the mast head, the to%s o! the trees were only %artially distinguishedD yet the de%th was no more than !rom to + !athoms# At noon, when our latitude was 1+ deg# 2-' 2IC and longitude 1-1 deg# 1-1L2', trees were "isible !rom the dec at <# K, deg# /#, and !rom thence to 5# M, deg# /D the nearest %art, whence a smo e arose, being distant se"en or eight miles, and the de%th o! water - !athoms# The slight %rojection here is %robably one o! those mar ed in the old chart on each side o! 5taten )i"erD but where that ri"er can be !ound 6 now not# The nearest a%%roach made to the land in the a!ternoon, was !i"e or siB

miles, with 2 !athoms waterD at dus we anchored in + !athoms, mud, at siB or se"en miles !rom the shore, ha"ing been !orced o!! a little by the sea breeJe "eering southward# A tide here ran gently to the 5# 5# G#, till near ten o'cloc , and then set northward till daylight .5;<*A$ 1<8V/MB/) 1E,23D at which time the water had !allen nine !eet by the lead line# Ge got under way with a land wind !rom the north&east, which a!terwards "eered to north&west, and steered a course nearly due southD which, as the coast then trended south&westward, brought us in with it# At noon, the latitude was 1K deg# 2' 1MC, longitude 1-1 deg# ,'D a %rojecting %art bore <# MI deg# /# three or !our miles, and the de%th was 21L2 !athoms# There a%%eared to be a small o%ening on the south side o! this little %rojection, which corres%onds in latitude to AVan *iemen's )i"erA in the old chartD but across the entrance was an eBtensi"e !lat, nearly dry, and would %robably %re"ent e"en boats !rom getting in# 6! this %lace had any title to be called a ri"er in 1+--, the coast must ha"e undergone a great alteration since that time# 6n the a!ternoon our course along shore was more westwardD and this, with the increasing shallowness o! the water, made me a%%rehend that the Gul%h would be !ound to terminate nearly as re%resented in the old charts, and disa%%oint the ho%es !ormed o! a strait or %assage leading out at some other %art o! Terra Australis# At !our o'cloc , a!ter running more than an hour in 21L2 !athoms, or less than 2 at low water, our distance !rom the shore was !i"e milesD and a small o%ening then bore 5# 1- deg# /, which seems to be the A4aron )i"erA, mar ed at the south&east eBtremity o! the Gul%h in the *utch chartD but whate"er it might ha"e been in Tasman's time, no na"igator would now thin o! attem%ting to enter it with a shi%( the latitude is 1K deg# 2+', and longitude 1-, deg# M2' east# From !our till se"en our course was G# by 5#, close to the wind, the de%th being mostly 2 !athoms, and the land barely within sight !rom the mast head# Ge then stood o!!D and the water being smooth, anchored on muddy ground, in -1L2 !athoms, which became 21L2 at low water# The !lood tide here set 5# 5# G#, till midnightD and the ebb <# by /#, till we got under way in the morning# M8<*A$ 1M <8V/MB/) 1E,2 8n the 1Mth, we ran be!ore a north&east wind towards the !urthest land seen !rom the mast head# The soundings were 21L2, 2, and soon a!ter se"en o'cloc , 21L2 !athomsD which made it necessary to steer !urther o!!, though the land was distant siB or eight miles, and scarcely "isible !rom the dec # Ge e%t in 2 !athoms, steering "arious westward courses, until noonD when the latitude was 1K' 2,' IC, and longitude 1-, deg# 22'# The land was distant se"en or eight miles to the southward, and the !urthest %art distinguished !rom the mast head was at 5# by G# 1L2 G#D it was low and sandy as e"er, and with less wood u%on it than any %art be!ore seen# A sea breeJe at <# <# G# scarcely %ermitted us to lie along the shore in the a!ternoonD but the ground being so!t, and soundings regular, though shallow, we e%t on until !i"e o'cloc D and then tac ed in 21L2 !athoms, ha"ing reached within three miles o! the land# At eight o'cloc , the anchor was let go in - !athoms, on a bottom o! mud and shells# The coast to which we a%%roached nearest this e"ening, was sandy and "ery barrenD but there were some nati"es collected u%on the hilloc s, to loo at the shi%D so that e"en here, and at the end o! the dry season, !resh water may be had# These %eo%le were blac and na ed, and made many wild gestures# Between this %art and the land set at 5# by G# 1L2 G# at noon, there was a bight !alling bac as !ar as the latitude 1K deg# -2', or %erha%s !urther, which a%%eared to be the southern eBtremity o! the Gul%h o!

4ar%entariaD !or the coast !rom thence too a direction to the northward o! west# 5hoals eBtended a great way out !rom the bightD and were almost dry to a considerable distance# T;/5*A$ 1+ <8V/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning our route was %ursued along the shore, at the distance o! siB to nine or ten milesD the course being <# G#, close to a <# <# /# wind, and the soundings remar ably regular, between 2 and 21L2 !athoms# Two leagues !rom the %lace where the nati"es had been seen, was a %rojecting %art where the country again became woodyD but the coast there, and onward, was as low as be!ore# At noon, the obser"ed latitude was 1K deg# 21' 1MC, and the longitude by time ee%er 12I deg# M-' eastD the !urthest continuation o! the land seen !rom the mast head, bore G# 1L2 5#, but there was a small lum% bearing <# 2M deg# G#, towards which we e%t u% as much as %ossible# At two o'cloc the wind headed, and on coming into 21L2 !athoms, we tac edD being then !i"e miles !rom the low southern land, and three or !our leagues !rom the northern hill, which bore <# 1E deg# G# <ot much was gained in wor ing to windward !rom that time till dus D and the anchor was then dro%%ed in -1L2 !athoms, blue mud, no other land than the small hill being in sight# There being no island mar ed in the *utch chart so near to the head o! the Gul%h as this hill, made me conclude that it was u%on the main landD and to ho%e that the s%ace o! !our leagues, between it and the southern coast, was an o%ening o! some im%ortance# 6n the morning .G/*</5*A$ 1K <8V/MB/) 1E,23, a !resh land wind at south&east !a"oured our course, the water dee%ened to 1, !athoms, and at eight o'cloc to no ground with 12, near the south end o! a ree! eBtending out !rom the hill# 8n coming into M !athoms behind the ree!, the anchor was dro%%ed on a muddy bottom, with the hill bearing <# 1M deg# /#, one mile and a @uarter, and the dry eBtremity o! the ree! 5# /# 1L2 /# The coast to the southward was scarcely "isible !rom the mast head, but land was seen to eBtend westward !rom the hill, as !ar as nine or ten milesD and in order to gain a better nowledge o! what this land might be, 6 went on shore, ta ing instruments with me to obser"e !or the rates o! the time ee%ers# The hill %ro"ed to be a mass o! calcareous roc , whose sur!ace was cut and honeycombed as i! it had been eB%osed to the washing o! a sur!# 6t was the highest land we had seen in 4ar%entaria, a!ter ha"ing !ollowed one hundred and se"enty&!i"e leagues o! coastD nor was any land to be distinguished !rom the to% o! the hill which had an e@ual degree o! ele"ationD yet it did not much eBceed the height o! the shi%'s mast headO The land round it %ro"ed to be an island o! !i"e miles longD se%arated !rom other land to the west by a channel o! nearly two miles in width# The wide o%ening between this land and the low coast to the southward, 6 ta e to ha"e been what is called Maatsuy er's )i"er in the old chartD and that the island, which Tasman, or whoe"er made the eBamination, did not distinguish well !rom being too !ar o!!, is the %rojecting %oint mar ed on the west side o! that ri"er# Maatsuy er was one o! the counsellors at Bata"ia, who signed Tasman's instructions in 1+--D but as there is no ri"er here, his name, as it stands a%%lied in the old chart, cannot remain# 6 would ha"e !ollowed in the intention o! doing him honour, by trans!erring his name to the island, but Maatsuy er's 6sles already eBist on the south coast o! Van *iemen's 'andD 6 there!ore ado%t the name o! 5weers, another member o! the same Bata"ia councilD and call the island at the entrance o! the su%%osed ri"er, A5weers' 6slandA# The hill obtained the name o! A6ns%ection 9illAD and a!ter ta ing bearings !rom it, 6 rowed into the channel which se%arates 5weers' 6sland !rom the

western landD and !inding the shelter to be good, the bottom so!t, and soundings regular between 2 and + !athoms, the shores on each side were searched !or !resh water, with a "iew to !illing u% the holds there and caul ing the shi%, be!ore %roceeding !urther in the eBamination o! the Gul%h( the search, howe"er, was unsuccess!ul# 6n Torres' 5trait, when running with a !resh side wind, the shi% had lea ed to the amount o! ten inches o! water %er hour# and in some hours the car%enters had re%orted as much as !ourteenD but no anchorage, ada%ted to the %ur%ose o! caul ing the bends, had %resented itsel! until our arri"al here# Be!ore going on shore, 6 had le!t orders !or the shi% to be %ut on a careen, and the car%enters began u%on the larbord side# 6n the course o! their wor two %lan s were !ound to be rotten, and the timber underneath was in no better stateD it was there!ore desirable to !ind a %lace where the holds could be com%leted with water, and the botanists and mysel! !ind use!ul em%loyment !or a !ew days, whilst the de!iciencies were re%airing# 5uch a %lace, it was reasonable to eB%ect, the o%ening to the westward would a!!ordD and the car%enters ha"ing %atched u% the bad %art by the e"ening o! the 1Eth .T9;)5*A$ 1E <8V/MB/) 1E,23, and another set o! obser"ations !or the time ee%ers being obtained, we were then ready to %roceed in the eBamination# .<8)T9 48A5T# G/''/5'/$'5 65'A<*5#3 F)6*A$ 1I <8V/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning at sunrise, we steered u% the o%ening with a land wind at 5# 5# /#D and until ten o'cloc , when we had reached the !urthest %art o! the western land seen !rom 6ns%ection 9ill, the soundings were between + and 2 !athoms, reduced to low water# This land %ro"ed to be an island o! ten or ele"en miles long, and 6 ha"e gi"en it the name o! Bentinc , in honour o! the )ight 9on# '8)* G6''6AM B/<T6<4=D o! whose obliging attention, when go"ernor o! Madras, 6 shall herea!ter ha"e to s%ea in %raise# To the north&west o! Bentinc 's 6sland, se"eral small isles came in sightD but a northern sea breeJe ha"ing set in, we e%t on our western course !or the low main land, which trended here north&westward# At one o'cloc the diminution o! de%th to 21L2 !athoms, obliged us to tac D the main being !our miles distant, and the eastern eBtreme o! the nearest island bearing <# 2 deg# G#, two leagues( this was named AAllen's 6sleA, a!ter the %ractical miner o! the eB%edition# 6n wor ing to windward, the water was !ound to be shallow in almost e"ery directionD and the dee%est being at three or !our miles !rom the south&west %oint o! Bentinc 's 6sland, the anchor was there dro%%ed in -1L2 !athoms, muddy bottom# 5AT;)*A$ 2, <8V/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning we steered towards Allen's 6sle, with the whale boat aheadD and anchored one mile and a hal! !rom its south&east end, in 21L2 !athoms, mud# 8ur latitude here was 1K deg# M', longitude 12I deg# 2+'D and aJimuths ta en with the sur"eying com%ass, when the head was <# by /#, ga"e "ariation 2 deg# -I', or 2 deg# 1M' east, corrected# 6 went on shore with the botanical gentlemen, in order to ta e bearings, and eB%lore !urther u% the o%ening# Allen's 6sle is between !our and !i"e miles in length, and though generally barren, there are bushes and small trees u%on it, and some tolerable grass# 6t is altogether low landD but the south&east end is cli!!y, and within two cables length o! it there is - !athomsD no !resh water was !ound near the shore, nor any %lace where cas s could be

con"eniently landed# A!ter ta ing a set o! bearings 6 le!t the gentlemen to !ollow their %ursuits, and rowed north&westward, intending to go round the islandD but an im%assable ree! eBtended so !ar out, that the %roject was gi"en u%D and a!ter ta ing angles !rom one o! the roc s, 6 went eastward to a smaller island two miles o!!, where se"eral 6ndians where %ercei"ed# The water was too shallow !or the boat to get near themD but we landed at a little distance, and wal ed a!ter three men who were dragging siB small ra!ts toward the eBtreme northern roc s, where three other nati"es were sitting# These men not choosing to abandon their ra!ts, an inter"iew was una"oidable, and they came on shore with their s%ears to wait our a%%roach# 8ne o! us ad"anced towards them, unarmedD and signs being made to lay down their s%ears, which were understood to mean that they should sit down, they com%liedD and by degrees, a !riendly intercourse was established# They acce%ted some red worsted ca%s and !illets, as also a hatchet and an adJe, the use o! which being eB%lained, was immediately com%rehended# 6n return, they ga"e us two "ery rude s%ears, and a AwomerahA, or throwing stic , o! nearly the same !orm as those used by the nati"es o! Port :ac son# The ra!ts consisted o! se"eral straight branches o! mangro"e, "ery much dried, and lashed together in two %laces with the largest ends one way, so as to !orm a broad %art, and the smaller ends closing to a %oint# <ear the broad end was a bunch o! grass, where the man sits to %addleD but the ra!t, with his weight alone, must swim "ery dee%D and indeed 6 should scarcely ha"e su%%osed it could !loat a man at all# ;%on one o! the ra!ts was a short net, which, !rom the siJe o! the meshes, was %robably intended to catch turtleD u%on another was a young shar D and these, with their %addles and s%ears, seemed to constitute the whole o! their earthly riches# Two o! the three men were ad"anced in years, and !rom the resemblance o! !eature were %robably brothers# Gith the eBce%tion o! two chie!s at Taheity, these were the tallest 6ndians 6 had e"er seenD the two brothers being !rom three to !our inches higher than my coBswain, who measured !i"e !eet ele"en# They were not remar able !or being either stout or slenderD though li e most o! the Australians, their legs did not bear the /uro%ean %ro%ortion to the siJe o! their heads and bodies# The third nati"e was not so tall as the other twoD and he was, according to our notions, better %ro%ortioned# Their !eatures did not much di!!er !rom those o! their countrymen on the 5outh and /ast 4oastsD but they had each o! them lost two !ront teeth !rom the u%%er jaw# Their hair was short, though not curlyD and a !illet o! net wor , which the youngest man had wra%%ed round his head, was the sole ornament or clothing seen amongst them# The two old men a%%eared, to my sur%rise, to ha"e undergone circumcisionD but the %osture o! the youngest, who remained sitting down, did not allow o! obser"ation being made u%on him# A!ter being !i"e minutes with them, the old men %ro%osed to go to our boatD and this being agreed to, we %roceeded together, hand in hand# But they sto%%ed hal! way, and retreating a little, the eldest made a short harangue which concluded with the word AjahreeOA %ronounced with em%hasis( they then returned to the ra!ts, and dragged them towards their three com%anions who were sitting on the !urthest roc s# These 6 judged to be women, and that the %ro%osal o! the men to go to our boat was a !eint to get us !urther !rom themD it did not seem, howe"er, that the women were so much a!raid o! us, as the men a%%eared to be on their accountD !or although we wal ed bac , %ast the ra!ts, much nearer than

be!ore, they remained "ery @uietly %ic ing oysters# 6t was not my desire to annoy these %oor %eo%leD and there!ore, lea"ing them to their own way, we too an o%%osite direction to eBamine the island# This low %iece o! land is between one and two miles long, and !rom its !orm recei"ed the name o! A9orse&shoe 6slandAD there is "ery little soil miBed with the sand on its sur!ace, and eBce%t the mangro"e trees u%on the shore, it bears nothing larger than bushes# Ge did not !ind any hutsD but the dried grass s%read round two or three neighbouring !ire %laces, mar ed the last residence o! the 6ndians# <ear it were lying se"eral large s%iral shells, %robably the "essels in which they had brought water !rom the main landD !or none was !ound on the island, nor was there any a%%earance that it could be %rocured# 5hells and bones o! turtle, some o! them !resh, were %lenti!ully scattered aroundD u%on the beach also there were turtle trac s, and se"eral o! these animals were seen in the water during the dayD but it was not our !ortune to ta e one o! them# 6n returning to the shi% in the e"ening, 6 steered !rom 9orse&shoe, to the south&east end o! Allen's 6sle, and sounded the channel between themD but had only once so much as 2 !athoms# There was conse@uently no !it %assage this way !or the shi%, and the se"eral low islets to the north&east, %recluded the eB%ectation o! !inding one any where to the west o! Bentinc 's 6slandD 6 there!ore judged it most ad"isable to return, and %lace the shi% between Bentinc 's and 5weers' 6slands, until the necessary caul ing was !inished# <ati"es had been seen on both those islandsD and this ga"e a ho%e that water might still be !ound to com%lete the holds %re"iously to encountering the bad weather o! the north&west monsoon, which 6 had been eB%ecting to set in e"ery day# 5;<*A$ 21 <8V/MB/) 1E,2 At daylight neBt morning the anchor was weighedD and ha"ing to wor against !oul winds, the breadth o! the shi% %assage between Bentinc 's 6sland and the southern main, was ascertained and soundedD and at dus in the e"ening we anchored hal! a mile !rom the west sandy %oint o! 5weers' 6sland, in M !athoms, small stones and shells# This anchorage between the two islands, though it may not be called a %ort, is yet almost e@ually well sheltered, and 6 named it A6n"estigator's )oadAD it has the a%%earance o! being eB%osed between <# <# G# and <# /# 1L2 <#D but the roc s !rom each shore occu%y nearly one hal! o! the s%ace, and the water is too shallow in the remaining %art to admit any surge to endanger a shi%# M8<*A$ 22 <8V/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt day, a boat was sent to !ish with the seine u%on 5weers' 6sland, and an o!!icer went to the o%%osite shore to dig !or waterD the botanists di"ided themsel"es into two %arties, to "isit both islands, and the car%enters began caul ing the starbord side o! the shi%# 6 re%eated the obser"ations under 6ns%ection 9ill, !or the rates o! the time ee%ersD and being in!ormed on my return, that the midshi%man o! the seining boat had disco"ered a small hole containing a little muddy water, with a shell lying near it, 6 had the %lace dug out, through the sand and a stratum o! whitish clay, to the de%th o! ten or ele"en !eet# ;nder the clay we !ound a bottom o! stone and gra"el, and the water then !lowed in clear, and tolerably !ast# This was a great ac@uisitionD more es%ecially as the s%ring was not !ar !rom the beach at the west %oint o! 5weers' 6sland, where the cas s could be con"eniently landed, and where we had had great success in !ishing#

The gentlemen who "isited Bentinc 's 6sland, !ound a small la e o! !resh water at no great distance !rom the sea sideD and it a%%eared that the interior %art o! 5weers' 6sland, towards the northern end, was occu%ied by swam%s# This com%arati"e abundance o! water u%on such low islands, and at the end o! the dry season, seemed "ery remar ableD it may %erha%s be attributed to the clayey consistence o! the stratum immediately under the sand, and to the gra"elly roc u%on which that stratum restsD the one %re"enting the e"a%oration o! the rains, and the other obstructing their !urther in!iltration# T;/5*A$ 22 <8V/MB/) 1E,2 /arly neBt morning the shi% was remo"ed to within two cables length o! the west %oint, nearer to the s%ringD and lieutenant Fowler was established on shore with a %arty o! seamen and marines, ta ing tents, a seine, and other necessaries !or watering the shi% and su%%lying us with !ish# The car%enters %roceeded in their wor o! caul ingD but as they ad"anced, re%ort a!ter re%ort was brought to me o! rotten %laces !ound in di!!erent %arts o! the shi%&&in the %lan s, bends, timbers, tree&nails, etc#, until it became @uite alarming .G/*</5*A$ 2- <8V/MB/) 1E,23# 6 there!ore directed the master and car%enter to ma e a regular eBamination into all such essential %arts, as could be done without delaying the ser"iceD and to gi"e me an o!!icial re%ort thereon, with answers to certain @ueries %ut to them# A!ter two days eBamination, their re%ort was made in the !ollowing terms .F)6*A$ 2+ <8V/MB/) 1E,23# 56), 6n obedience to your directions we ha"e ta en with us the oldest car%enter's mate o! the 6n"estigator, and made as thorough an eBamination into the state o! the shi% as circumstances will %ermit, and which we !ind to be as under( 8ut o! ten to% timbers on the larbord side, near the !ore channel, !our are sound, one %artly rotten, and !i"e entirely rotten# Ge ha"e seen but one timber on the larbord @uarter, which is entirely rotten# 8n the starbord bow, close to the stem, we ha"e seen three timbers which are all rotten# ;nder the starbord !ore chains we !ind one o! the chain&%late bolts started, in conse@uence o! the timber and inside %lan being rottenD and also a %re"enter eyebolt, !rom the same cause# 8n boring into the second !uttoc timbers !rom the main hold, close under the beams o! the lower dec on the larbord side, we !ind one sound and two rottenD and on the other side, one sound and one rotten# 8n boring into one o! the second !uttoc timbers in the coc %it, on each side, we !ind it to be sound on the starbord, but on the other side rotten( the inside %lan on both sides is rotten# 8n boring into one timber o! a side in the a!ter hold, we !ind them to be sound# 8n boring into one timber o! a side !rom the bread room, one is soundD but on the larbord side it is rotten# The stem a%%ears to be goodD but the stemson is mostly decayed#

The lower breast hoo is decayed within side# The transoms, slee%ers, stern %ost, and %ostson are all sound# The ends o! the beams we !ind to be uni"ersally in a decaying state# The tree&nails are in general rotten# From the s%ecimens we ha"e seen o! the to%&sides and bends, we eB%ect that the insides o! them are rotten, !ore and a!tD but that about one inch o! the outside o! the greater %art is yet @uite sound# A!ter the abo"e re%ort, and u%on due consideration, we gi"e the !ollowing answers to the !our @uestions %ut to us# 1st# The shi% ha"ing be!ore made ten inches o! water an hour, in a common !resh breeJe, we judge !rom that, and what we ha"e now seen, that a little labouring would em%loy two %um%sD and that in a strong gale, with much sea running, the shi% would hardly esca%e !ounderingD so that we thin she is totally un!it to encounter much bad weather# 2nd# Ge ha"e no doubt but that, i! the shi% should get on shore under any un!a"ourable circumstances, she would immediately go to %iecesD but with a so!t bottom and smooth water, she might touch !or a short time without any worse conse@uences than to another shi%, i! she did not heel muchD but altogether, we judge it to be much more dangerous !or her to get aground in her %resent state, than i! she were sound# 2rd# 6t is our o%inion that the shi% could not bear hea"ing down on any accountD and that laying her on shore might so !ar strain her as to start the co%%er and butt ends, which would ma e her unable to swim without "ast re%air# -th# Mr# A en has nown se"eral shi%s o! the same ind, and built at the same %lace as the 6n"estigatorD and has always !ound that when they began to rot they went on "ery !ast# From the state to which the shi% seems now to be ad"anced, it is our joint o%inion, that in twel"e months there will scarcely be a sound timber in herD but that i! she remain in !ine weather and ha%%en no accident, she may run siB months longer without much ris # Ge are, 5ir, To Matthew Flinders, /s@# your obedient ser"ants, 4ommander o! 9is Majesty's :ohn A en, master, sloo% the 6n"estigator# )ussel Mart, car%enter# 6 cannot eB%ress the sur%rise and sorrow which this statement ga"e me# According to it, a return to Port :ac son was almost immediately necessaryD as well to secure the journals and charts o! the eBaminations already made, as to %reser"e the li"es o! the shi%'s com%anyD and my ho%es o! ascertaining com%letely the eBterior !orm o! this immense, and in many %oints interesting country, i! not destroyed, would at least be de!erred to an uncertain %eriod# My leading object had hitherto been, to ma e so accurate an in"estigation o! the shores o! Terra Australis that no !uture "oyage to this country should be necessaryD and with this always in "iew, 6 had e"er endea"oured to !ollow the land so closely, that the washing o! the sur! u%on it should be "isible, and no o%ening, nor any thing o! interest esca%e notice# 5uch a degree o! %roBimity is

what na"igators ha"e usually thought neither necessary nor sa!e to %ursue, nor was it always %erse"ered in by usD sometimes because the direction o! the wind or shallowness o! the water made it im%racticable, and at other times because the loss o! the shi% would ha"e been the %robable conse@uence o! a%%roaching so near to a lee shore# But when circumstances were !a"ourable, such was the %lan 6 %ursuedD and with the blessing o! G8*, nothing o! im%ortance should ha"e been le!t !or !uture disco"erers, u%on any %art o! these eBtensi"e coastsD but with a shi% inca%able o! encountering bad weather&&which could not be re%aired i! sustaining injury !rom any o! the numerous shoals or roc s u%on the coast&&which, i! constant !ine weather could be ensured and all accidents a"oided, could not run more than siB months&&with such a shi%, 6 new not how to accom%lish the tas # A %assage to Port :ac son at this time, %resented no common di!!iculties# 6n %roceeding by the west, the un!a"ourable monsoon was li ely to %ro"e an obstacle not to be surmountedD and in returning by the east, stormy weather was to be eB%ected in Torres' 5trait, a %lace where the multi%lied dangers caused such an addition to be %eculiarly dreaded# These considerations, with a strong desire to !inish, i! %ossible, the eBamination o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, !iBed my resolution to %roceed as be!ore in the sur"ey, during the continuance o! the north&west monsoonD and when the !air wind should come, to %roceed by the west to Port :ac son, i! the shi% should %ro"e ca%able o! a winter's %assage along the 5outh 4oast, and i! not, to ma e !or the nearest %ort in the /ast 6ndies# 5;<*A$ 2E <8V/MB/) 1E,2 By the 2Eth, the watering and wooding o! the shi% were com%leted, the gunner had dried all his %owder in the sun, and the tents and %eo%le were brought on board# All that the car%enters could do at the shi% was to secure the hooding ends to the stem&&shi!t some o! the worst %arts in the rotten %lan ing&&and caul all the bendsD and this they had !inished# The wind being south&east on the morning o! the 2Ith .M8<*A$ 2I <8V/MB/) 1E,23, 6 attem%ted to @uit the 6n"estigator's )oad by steering out to the northwardD but this being !ound im%racticable, !rom the shallowness o! the water, we were obliged to beat out to the southD and so contrary did the wind remain, that not being able to weather the ree! at the south&east end o! 5weers' 6sland, we anchored within it on the e"ening o! the 2,th .T;/5*A$ 2, <8V/MB/) 1E,23# 6 shall now sum u% into one "iew, the %rinci%al remar s made during our stay amongst these islands# The stone most commonly seen on the shores is an iron ore, in some %laces so strongly im%regnated, that 6 concei"e it would be a great ac@uisition to a colony !iBed in the neighbourhood# Abo"e this is a concreted mass o! coral, shells, coral sand, and grains o! iron ore, which sometimes a%%ears at the sur!ace, but is usually co"ered either with sand or "egetable earth, or a miBture o! both# 5uch a%%eared most generally to be the consistence o! all the islandsD but there are many local "arieties# The soil, e"en in the best %arts, is !ar behind !ertilityD but the small trees and bushes which grow there, and the grass in some o! the less co"ered %laces, sa"e the larger islands !rom the re%roach o! being absolutely sterile# The %rinci%al woods are Aeucaly%tusA and AcasuarinaA, o! a siJe too small in general, to be !it !or other %ur%oses than the !ireD the A%andanusA grows almost e"ery where, but most abundantly in the sandy %artsD and the botanists made out a long list o! %lants, se"eral o!

which were @uite new to them# Ge saw neither @uadru%ed nor re%tile u%on the islands# Birds were rather numerous the most use!ul o! them were duc s o! se"eral s%ecies, and bustards and one o! these last, shot by Mr# Bauer, weighed between ten and twel"e %ounds, and made us an eBcellent dinner# The !lesh o! this bird is distributed in a manner directly contrary to that o! the domestic tur ey, the white meat being u%on the legs, and the blac u%on the breast# 6n the woody %arts o! the islands were seen crows and white coc atoosD as also cuc oo&%heasants, %igeons, and small birds %eculiar to this %art o! the country# 8n the shores were %elicans, gulls, sea&%ies, oB&birds, and sand&lar sD but eBce%t the gulls, none o! these tribes were numerous# The sea a!!orded a "ariety o! !ishD and in such abundance, that it was rare not to gi"e a meal to all the shi%'s com%any !rom one or two hauls o! the seine# Turtle abound amongst the islandsD but it seemed to be a !atality that we could neither %eg any !rom the boat, nor yet catch them on shore# 6ndians were re%eatedly seen u%on both Bentinc 's and 5weers' 6slandsD but they always a"oided us, and sometimes disa%%eared in a manner which seemed eBtraordinary# 6t is %robable that they hid themsel"es in ca"es dug in the groundD !or we disco"ered in one instance a large hole, containing two a%artments >so to call them?, in each o! which a man might lie down# Fire %laces under the shade o! the trees, with dried grass s%read around, were o!ten met withD and these 6 a%%rehend to be their !ine&weather, and the ca"es their !oul&weather residences# The !ern or some similar root, a%%ears to !orm a %art o! their subsistenceD !or there were some %laces in the sand and in the dry swam%s, where the ground had been so dug u% with %ointed stic s that it resembled the wor o! a herd o! swine# Ghether these %eo%le reside constantly u%on the islands, or come o"er at certain seasons !rom the main, was uncertainD canoes, they seemed to ha"e none, but to ma e their "oyages u%on ra!ts similar to those seen at 9orse&shoe 6sland, and o! which some were !ound on the shore in other %laces# 6 had been taught by the *utch accounts to eB%ect that the inhabitants o! 4ar%entaria were !erocious, and armed with bows and arrows as well as s%ears# 6 !ound them to be timidD and so desirous to a"oid intercourse with strangers, that it was by sur%rise alone that our sole inter"iew, that at 9orse&shoe 6sland, was brought aboutD and certainly there was then nothing !erocious in their conduct# 8! bows and arrows not the least indication was %ercei"ed, either at these islands or at 4oen )i"erD and the s%ears were too hea"y and clumsily made, to be dangerous as o!!ensi"e wea%ons( in the de!ensi"e, they might ha"e some im%ortance# 6t is worthy o! remar , that the three nati"es seen at 9orse&shoe 6sland had lost the two u%%er !ront teethD and *am%ier, in s%ea ing o! the inhabitants o! the <orthwest 4oast, says, Cthe two !ront teeth o! the u%%er jaw are wanting in all o! them, men and women, old and young#C <othing o! the ind was obser"ed in the nati"es o! the islands in Torres' 5trait, nor at =e%%el, 9er"ey's, or Glass&house Bays, on the /ast 4oastD yet at Port :ac son, !urther south, it is the custom !or the boys, on arri"ing at the age o! %uberty, to ha"e AoneA o! the u%%er !ront teeth noc ed out, but no moreD nor are the girls subjected to the same o%eration# At Two!old Bay, still !urther south, no such custom %re"ails, nor did 6 obser"e it at Port Philli% or =ing George's 5ound, on the 5outh 4oastD but at Van *iemen's 'and it seems to be used %artially, !or M# 'abillardiere says >%# 22, o! the 'ondon translation?, Cwe obser"ed some, in whom one o! the middle teeth o! the u%%er jaw was wanting, and others

in whom both were gone# Ge could not learn the object o! this customD but it is not general, !or the greater %art o! the %eo%le had all their teeth#C The rite o! circumcision, which seemed to ha"e been %ractised u%on two o! the three nati"es at 9orse&shoe 6sland, and o! which better %roo!s were !ound in other %arts o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, is, 6 belie"e, no"el in the history o! Terra Australis# 8n 5weers' 6sland, se"en human s ulls and many bones were !ound lying together, near three eBtinguished !iresD and a s@uare %iece o! timber, se"en !eet long, which was o! tea wood, and according to the judgment o! the car%enter had been a @uarter&dec carling o! a shi%, was thrown u% on the western beach# 8n Bentinc 's 6sland 6 saw the stum%s o! at least twenty trees, which had been !elled with an aBe, or some shar% instrument o! ironD and not !ar !rom the same %lace were scattered the bro en remains o! an earthen jar# Putting these circumstances together, it seemed %robable that some shi% !rom the /ast 6ndies had been wrec ed here, two or three years bac &&that %art o! the crew had been illed by the 6ndians&&and that the others had gone away, %erha%s to the main land, u%on ra!ts constructed a!ter the manner o! the nati"es# This could be no more than conjectureD but it seemed to be so su%%orted by the !acts, that 6 !elt anBious to trace the route o! the un!ortunate %eo%le, and to relie"e them !rom the distress and danger to which they must be eB%osed# The ad"antages to be obtained here by a shi% are brie!ly these( shelter against all winds in the 6n"estigator's )oad, wood !or !uel, !resh water, and a tolerable abundance o! !ish and turtleD !or to antici%ate a little on the "oyage, there are islands lying within reach o! a boat !rom the )oad, where the turtle are not disturbed by the 6ndians# 5hould it e"er enter into the %lan o! an eB%edition, to %enetrate into the interior o! Terra Australis !rom the head o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, the 6n"estigator's )oad is %articularly well ada%ted !or a shi% during the absence o! the tra"ellers( the season most !a"ourable to their o%erations would be in May, :une, and :ulyD but not so !or the "essel, as the crew would %robably be unable to %rocure turtle at that time# For a similar eB%edition !rom the o%%osite %art o! the 5outh 4oast, 5e%tember, 8ctober, and <o"ember would seem to be most %ro%er# From the time o! !irst arri"ing, to that o! @uitting 5weers' 6sland, the range o! the thermometer on board the shi% was between E1 deg# and I, deg#, and on shore it might be M deg# to 1, deg# higher in the day timeD the weather was conse@uently warmD but being alle"iated by almost constant breeJes either !rom sea or land, it was seldom o%%ressi"eD and the insects were not "ery troublesome# The mercury in the barometer ranged between 2,#,+ and 2I#K, 6t stood highest with the winds !rom the sea, between north&east and north&westD and lowest when they blew gently o!! the land, between south&east and south&west, but most so !rom the latter direction# 8n the 5outh 4oast the winds !rom these %oints had %roduced a contrary e!!ect( the mercury there stood lowest when the northern winds blew, and highest when they came !rom the southwardD they coincided, howe"er, so !ar, in that the sea winds raised, and the land winds de%ressed the mercury, the same as was obser"ed at Port :ac son on the /ast 4oast# The AlatitudeA o! 6ns%ection 9ill, !rom se"eral single and two double obser"ations, was 1K deg# E' 1MC 5# A'ongitudeA !rom !orty&two sets o! lunar distances ta en by lieutenant Flinders, the %articulars o! which are gi"en in Table 666# o! the A%%endiB <o# 6# to this "olume, 12I deg# --' M2C /#

The rates o! the time ee%ers were deduced !rom morning's altitudes, ta en with a seBtant and arti!icial horiJon at the shore under 6ns%ection 9ill, !rom <o"# 1+ to 2ID and the mean rates during this %eriod, with the errors !rom mean Greenwich time at noon there on the 2,th, were as under( /arnshaw's <o# M-2, slow 2h 1+' 2I#M1C and losing 1-#K-C %er day# /arnshaw's <o# M2,, slow 2h M2' 1I#K,C and losing 2,#,1C %er day# The longitude gi"en by the time ee%ers, with the rates !rom ;%%er 9ead in Broad 5ound, on our arri"al <o"# 1+, was by <o# M-2, 1-, deg# +' 2M#2C east# <o# M2,, 12I deg# -K' -2#2C east# <o# M2, there!ore di!!ered "ery little to the east o! the lunar obser"ations, and the !irst day's rate was almost eBactly the same as that with which we had @uitted ;%%er 9eadD whilst <o# M-2 di!!ered greatly, both in longitude and rate# A similar discordance had been noticed at the 4umberland 6sland, mar ed Al2A, twenty days a!ter lea"ing ;%%er 9eadD <o# M2, then di!!ered only 1' 1#2C !rom the sur"ey, but <o# M-2 erred K' 2#2C to the east# 6 ha"e there!ore been induced to %re!er the longitude gi"en by <o# M2,, to the mean o! both time ee%ersD and accordingly, the %ositions o! %laces be!ore mentioned or laid down in the charts, between ;%%er 9ead and 5weers' 6sland, including Torres' 5trait, are !rom this time ee%er aloneD with such small correction e@ually %ro%ortionedD as its error !rom the lunars, 2' M,#2C to the east in !i!ty&two days, made necessary# <o# M-2 had undergone some re"olution on the %assage, but seemed at this time to be going steadilyD whereas <o# M2,, which had e%t its rate so well, now "aried !rom 1E#KIC to 2M#2IC, and ceased to be entitled to an e@ual degree o! con!idence# Mean Adi%A o! the south end o! the needle, obser"ed u%on the west %oint o! 5weers' 6sland, -- deg# 2K'# AVariationA o! the theodolite in the same %lace, - deg# K' /# AVariationA o! the sur"eying com%ass in the )oad, 2 deg# 2E' with the shi%'s head /# <# /, and - deg# 2,' with the head northwardD the mean corrected to the meridian, will be - deg# 21' /# 6n bearings ta en on the east side o! Bentinc 's 6sland, the "ariation a%%eared to be a !ull degree greater than on the west side o! 5weers' 6sland# The AtidesA in the 6n"estigator's )oad ran <# <# /# and 5# 5# G#, as the channel lies, and their greatest rate at the s%rings, was one mile and a @uarter %er hourD they ran with regularity, but there was only one !lood and one ebb in the day# The %rinci%al %art o! the !lood came !rom <# <# /#D but according to lieutenant Fowler's remar s on shore, between the 22rd and 2Kth, it was high water three hours a!ter the o%%osite tide had set inD or about Athree hours and a @uarter be!oreA the moon came to the meridian# At the Prince o! Gales' 6slands, and at 4oen )i"er, it had also a%%eared that the tide !rom south&west made high water# The time here

ha%%ened between E1L2h and 111L2h at night, !rom the 22rd to the 2KthD but whether high water will always ta e %lace at night, as it did at =ing George's 5ound on the 5outh 4oast, 6 cannot be certain# About twel"e !eet was the greatest rise, which 6 a%%rehend would be diminished to eight, at the nea% tides# 49APT/) V66# *e%arture !rom 5weers' 6sland# 5outh side o! 4# Van *iemen eBamined# Anchorage at Bounti!ul 6sland( turtle and shar s there# 'and o! 4# Van *iemen %ro"ed to be an island# /Bamination o! the main coast to 4a%e Vanderlin# That ca%e !ound to be one o! a grou% o! islands# /Bamination o! the islandsD their soil, etc# Monument o! the nati"es# Traces o! !ormer "isitors to these %arts# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# .<8)T9 48A5T# G/''/5'/$'5 65'A<*5#3 G/*</5*A$ 1 */4/MB/) 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate H6V#? 8n the 1st o! *ecember we got under way, and %assed the ree! at the south&east end o! 5weers' 6sland# 6 wished to run close along the north side o! this, and o! Bentinc 's 6sland, and get in with the main land to the westD but the shoal water and dry ban s lying o!! them %resented so much im%ediment, that we steered north&westward !or land which came in sight in that direction# At noon, the land was distant siB or se"en miles, and a%%eared to be the inner %art o! that great %rojection o! the main, re%resented in the old chart under the name o! A4a%e Van *iemenAD but the roc y nature o! the shore and une"enness o! the sur!ace were so di!!erent !rom the sandy uni!ormity o! the continent, that 6 much doubted o! its conneBion# 8ur situation at this time, and the bearings ta en were as under( 'atitude, obser"ed to the north and south, 1+ deg# -E' 2IC 'and o! 4a%e Van *iemen, <# K, deg# G# to 2M G# A %iece a%%arently se%arated, <# 1E G# to 11 /# Bentinc 's 6#, highest %art at the north end, 5# 1M /# A smo e was rising in the direction o! 9orse&shoe 6sland, but no land was there "isible# Ge had a light breeJe at /# by <#, and steered westward along the roc y shore, at the distance o! two or three miles, till !i"e in the e"eningD when the breeJe ha"ing shi!ted to 5# G#, we tac ed and came to an anchor in + !athoms, mud and shells# The land was then distant three miles, and eBtended !rom <# +1 deg# /# to a %oint with a clum% o! high trees on it, which a%%eared to be the south&west eBtremity o! the northern land and bore <# E- deg# G# Ghether the s%ace between it and the main near Allen's 6sle were the entrance o! an inlet, or merely a se%aration o! the two lands, could not be distinguishedD but the tide set G# by 5#, into the o%ening, and there was a low island and many roc s in it# From an am%litude at this anchorage, the "ariation was 2 deg# 1+' east, corrected to the meridian, nearly the same as at Allen's 6sle, !i"e leagues to the southD and a !ull degree less than in the 6n"estigator's )oad#

T9;)5*A$ 2 */4/MB/) 1E,2 At !i"e neBt morning we steered !or the o%ening, with light, "ariable winds# 8n each side o! the low island and roc s there seemed to be %assages leading into a large s%read o! water, li e the seaD and our course was directed !or the northernmost, until the water shoaled to 21L2 !athoms and we tac ed to the southward# The south&west %oint o! the northern land then bore <# K- deg# G# !our miles, and the north end o! Allen's 6sle was seen !rom the mast head, bearing 5# 2 deg# G# !i"e leaguesD but that %art o! the o%ening between them, not occu%ied by the main land, seemed to be so choa ed with roc s that there was little %ros%ect o! a %assage !or the 6n"estigator# This being the case, and the wind becoming un!a"ourable to the search, we steered bac eastward, along the shoreD and at eight in the e"ening, anchored near the !urthest %art yet seen in that direction, in +1L2 !athoms sand and shells# F)6*A$ 2 */4/MB/) 1E,2 At daylight, the %iece o! hilly land be!ore judged to be an island, and which still a%%eared so, bore <# E+ deg# to 2E deg# G#, two or three miles, with some nearer roc s lying in !rontD the northern land eBtended !rom behind it to <# 22 deg# /#, and we !ollowed its course at the distance o! !i"e, and !rom that to two miles o!! shore# At noon we a%%roached the eastern eBtremity, and saw a small island two leagues !urther out, one o! three laid down in the old chart near 4a%e Van *iemenD it is thic ly co"ered with wood, %rinci%ally o! that so!tish, white ind, whence it obtained the name o! A6sle PisoniaA# Another and a larger island a!terwards o%ened !rom the ca%eD but this could not be one o! the three, !or it lies so close, that Tasman, or whoe"er disco"ered these %arts, would scarcely ha"e obser"ed the se%arationD and in !act, the other two isles %resently came in sight to the southward, nearly in the situation assigned to them# The wind being un!a"ourable to doubling the ca%e, we bore away !or the two islandsD and soon a!ter !our o'cloc , anchored on the south&east side o! the outermost, in +1L2 !athoms, good holding ground# Turtle trac s were distinguished on the beach as we rounded the north&east %oint, and a!!orded us the %leasurable antici%ation o! some !resh !ood# Ge had eB%lored tro%ical coasts !or se"eral months, without rea%ing any one o! the ad"antages usually attending it, and been !re@uently tantaliJed with the sight o! turtle in the water, and o! bones and shells round the !ire %laces on shoreD but we now ho%ed to ha"e !ound a %lace where the 6ndians had not !orestalled us, and to indemni!y oursel"es !or so many disa%%ointments# 6n rowing to the 6sland, we carried M !athoms nearly close to the beach# 5e"eral turtle were swimming about, and some %ercei"ed abo"e high&water mar , which we ran to secure, but !ound them dead, and rottenD they a%%eared to ha"e !allen on their bac s in climbing u% a stee% %art o! the beach, and not being able to right themsel"es, had miserably %erished# 6 wal ed the greater %art o! the length o! the islandD and !rom the highest hilloc set the eastern eBtreme o! the island close to 4a%e Van *iemen, at <# 2-2L- deg# G#, and 6sle Pisonia !rom <# 222L- deg# to 1I1L2 deg# G# *uring my absence !rom the boat, the im%atient crew, not waiting !or the turtle to come on shore, had been attac ing them in the waterD and had caught three large ones, and bro en my har%oon# They had also been scratching out some o! the holes, o! which the u%%er %art o! the sandy

beach was !ullD !rom one they !illed a hat with turtles eggs, and !rom another too a swarm o! young ones, not broader than a crown %iece, which 6 !ound crawling in e"ery %art o! the boat# 6t was then %ast sunset, and numbers o! turtle were collected, waiting only !or our de%arture to ta e the beachD 6 there!ore hastened to the shi%, and sent lieutenant Fowler with a %arty o! men, to remain all night and turn them# 5AT;)*A$ - */4/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning, two boats went to bring o!! the o!!icer and %eo%le with what had been caughtD but their success had been so great, that it was necessary to hoist out the launchD and it too nearly the whole day to get on board what the dec s and holds could contain, without im%ediment to the wor ing o! the shi%# They were !ound by Mr# Brown to be nearly similar to, but not eBactly the true green turtle, and he thought might be an undescribed s%ecies# Ge contri"ed to stow away !orty&siB, the least o! them weighing 2M, lbs, and the a"erage about 2,,D besides which, many were re&turned on shore, and su!!ered to go away# This ABounti!ul 6slandA, !or so 6 termed it, is near three miles long, and generally low and sandyD the highest %arts are ridges o! sand, o"ers%read with a long, cree%ing, coarse grass, which binds the sand together, and %reser"es it !rom being blown awayD grass o! the common ind grows in the lower %arts, and in one %lace there were some bushes and small trees# The basis consists %artly o! a strea ed, ochrous earth, and in %art o! sand, concreted with %articles o! iron ore# <othing bes%o e this island to ha"e been e"er be!ore "isited, whence it is %robable that the nati"es o! the neighbouring lands do not %ossess canoesD !or with them, the distance o! !our leagues !rom 4a%e Van *iemen would not ha"e been too great to be %assed, though too !ar in a tide's way !or such ra!ts as 6 saw at 9orse&shoe 6sland# A ind o! bustard, with a "ery strong bill, and not larger than a hen, was numerous at Bounti!ul 6slandD and a%%eared to subsist u%on the young turtle# The e!!ect o! instinct is admirable in all cases, and was "ery stri ing in these little am%hibious creatures# Ghen scratched out !rom their holes, they no sooner saw the day light than they made !or the water, and with s%eed, as i! conscious that the bustards were watching themD when %laced in a direction !rom the sea, which was done !or eB%eriment, they turned themsel"es and too the straightest course to the water side# But it is not only in the bustards, nor on land alone, that they ha"e enemies to !earD tiger shar s were numerous# and so "oracious, that se"en were hoo ed along&side the shi%, measuring !rom !i"e to nine !eet in length# These were ready to recei"e such o! the little animals as esca%e their !irst enemiesD and e"en one o! the !ull grown turtle had lost a semi circular %iece, e@ual to the tenth %art o! its bul , which had been bitten out o! its sideD and what seemed more eBtraordinary, the shell had closed, and the %lace was healed u%# Gere it not !or the immense destruction made o! these animals in the di!!erent stages o! their eBistence, and that !ood must in the end !ail, their !ecundity is such, that all the tro%ical seas and shores would scarcely a!!ord room !or them in a !ew years# The number o! eggs !ound in the !emales, and there were !ew, i! any males amongst the !orty&siB ta en here, usually ran !rom !our to se"en hundredD and in one weighing -MI lbs, ta en earlier in the !ollowing season, the number o! eggs counted was 1I-,, as recorded in lieutenant Fowler's journalD but many were not bigger, some not so large as %eas# They seem to lay !rom twenty to a hundred eggs at once, and this is done many times in the seasonD a!ter which they go "ery little on shore# 6n Terra Australis, the season a%%ears to commence in

August, and to terminate in :anuary or February# The AlatitudeA o! our anchorage, one mile !rom the south&east side o! Bounti!ul 6sland, was 1+ deg# -1' south# 'ieutenant Flinders obser"ed siB sets o! lunar distances, which ga"e 12I deg# -+' 1EC east AlongitudeAD but the time ee%er <o# M-2 made it 1-1L2' east o! 6ns%ection 9ill, or in 12I deg# MI1L2'# The A"ariationA o! the com%ass, !rom aJimuth and am%litude obser"ed with the shi%'s head in the magnetic meridian, was 2 deg# -+' eastD and at my station on shore, an am%litude with the theodolite ga"e 2 deg# -K' east# From a little %ast ten in the morning to ele"en at night, the AtideA ran hal! a mile an hour to the 5# G#, and <# /# during the remainder o! the twenty&!our hoursD the !irst, which seemed to be the !lood, was only three hours a!ter the moon, abo"e siB hours earlier than in the 6n"estigator's )oadD but the time o! high water by the shore might be "ery di!!erent( no greater rise than !i"e !eet was %ercei"able by the lead line# 5;<*A$ M */4/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning o! the Mth, we @uitted Bounti!ul 6sland to resume our eBamination at 4a%e Van *iemenD and the weather being rainy, with thunder and lightning, and the wind !resh at <# <# /#, we %assed round the smaller island, two miles to the southwest, be!ore hauling to the northward# At ten o'cloc , 4a%e Van *iemen was distant three miles, and we tac ed to the eastD and !rom that time till e"ening, continued to wor u% between the ca%e and a shoal lying two leagues !rom it to the /# 5# /# This shoal is a narrow ridge o! sand, o"er which we had %assed in going to Bounti!ul 6slandD but there were now brea ers u%on a more southern %art# 6t seems to be !ormed by di!!erent sets o! tide amongst the islands, and to be stee% toD !or in %assing o"er, the soundings had been 12, -, M, K, 11 !athoms, almost as @uic as the lead could be hea"ed# At dus the wind had gone down, and the anchor was dro%%ed in + !athoms, sand and shells, in the !ollowing situation# 4# Van *iemen, the 5# /# eBtreme, dist# 2 miles, 5# KM deg# G# The island close to it, <# MK deg# to 21 G# 6sle Pisonia, distant 2 miles, <# MM to +1 /# Bounti!ul 6#, station on the green hilloc , 5# -, /# That %art o! 4a%e Van *iemen abo"e set, is in latitude 1+ deg# 22' south, and longitude 12I deg# -I1L2 east# The tide here set <# <# /# and 5# 5# G#, between the island close to the ca%e and 6sle PisoniaD and at daylight .M8<*A$ + */4/MB/) 1E,23 we steered !or the middle o! the o%ening# 8n seeing brea ers ahead, the master was sent in the whale boat to sound, and we e%t more westward, a!ter him# There were nati"es u%on the island nearest to the land, who seemed to wait in eB%ectation o! being "isitedD but our soundings diminishing to 2 !athoms, and the master ha"ing still less, we stood out and were !ollowed by the boat# The wind was then at <# /#D and 6sle Pisonia being brought to bear <# G# at nine o'cloc , we tac ed and weathered it nearly a mile, carrying !rom I to 12 !athoms water# Turtle trac s were "ery distinguishable u%on the beach, but these %rognostics, once so much desired, did not now interest usD howe"er, on the wind becoming so light that we could not weather some brea ers whilst the lee tide was running, the stream, anchor was dro%%ed in I !athoms, and 6 went to the island with the botanical gentlemen#

More holes were scratched in the sand here by the turtle, than e"en u%on the island last @uittedD and se"eral o! the %oor animals were lying dead on their bac s# The isle is nothing more than a high sand ban u%on a basis o! coral roc , which has become thic ly co"ered with wood, and much resembles se"eral o! the smaller isles in Torres' 5trait# There was no trace o! !ormer "isitors, though it is not more than !our miles !rom the island where 6ndians had been seen in the morningD the tides %robably run too strong in a narrow, !our&!athom channel, close to 6sle Pisonia, to be encountered by their ra!ts# T;/5*A$ K */4/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning, the wind was at <# /#D and a!ter weathering a ree! which runs out three miles !rom the island under 4a%e Van *iemen, we closed in with the land, and steered westward along it with soundings !rom I to !athoms# A low head with white cli!!s was %assed at nine o'cloc , and %ro"ed to be the northernmost %oint o! this landD beyond it the coast eBtended G# by 5#, in a long sandy beach, and the country was better clothed with trees than on the south side# At noon we came abreast o! a low woody %oint, with a shoal running o!!, where the coast too a south&west directionD and our situation and bearings were then as under( 'atitude, obser"ed to the north#, 1+ deg# 2+' 'ongitude, !rom time ee%er and bearings, 12I 2M 4li!!y north head o! this land, <# E+ /# Goody shoal %oint, distant two miles, 5# 2M /# Furthest southern eBtreme, 5# 2I G# 6slet !rom the mast head, distant 2 leagues, <orth# From one o'cloc till !our, we steered 5# 5# G# %ast three other small cli!!y %rojectionsD and 6 then saw the clum% o! high trees on the south&west %oint o! this land, bearing 5# 21 deg# /# siB miles, the same which had been set !i"e days be!ore !rom the inner side# 8ur course was continued, to get in with the main landD but in hal! an hour the de%th had diminished to 21L2 !athoms, and obliged us to haul out G# by <#, close to the wind# The low main coast was then in sight !rom the mast head to the south&westward, and at dus we anchored about three leagues o!!, in M !athoms, sandy bottom# <o doubt remained that the land o! 4a%e Van *iemen was an islandD !or it had been circumna"igated, with the eBce%tion o! about three leagues, which the roc s and shoal water made im%racticable# 6ts eBtent is considerable, being thirty&!i"e miles long, and the circum!erence near ninety, inde%endently o! the smaller sinuosities in the coastD 6 did not land u%on any %art, but the sur!ace a%%eared to be more roc y than sandyD and judging !rom the bushes and trees with which it is mostly co"ered, there must be some %ortion, though %erha%s a small one, o! "egetable soil# 6n any other %art o! the world, this would be deemed low landD but here, where e"en the to%s o! the trees on the main scarcely eBceed a shi%'s mast head in ele"ation, it must be called moderately highD !or it may in some %arts, reach three hundred !eet# 5e"eral smo es and some nati"es were seen, and it is reasonable to su%%ose there are !iBed inhabitants, but their number is %robably small# 9ad not the name o! Van *iemen so o!ten occurred in Terra Australis, as to ma e con!usion, 6 should ha"e eBtended it !rom the ca%e to the whole

islandD but such being the case, 6 ha"e ta en this o%%ortunity o! indulging my gratitude to a nobleman o! high character and considerationD who, when go"ernor&general o! British 6ndia, humanely used his e!!orts to relie"e me !rom an im%risonment which was su%er&added to a shi%wrec in the se@uel o! the "oyage# This large island is there!ore distinguished by the name o! A6sle MorningtonAD and to the whole o! the grou%, now disco"ered to eBist at the head o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, 6 ha"e gi"en the a%%ellation o! G/''/5'/$'5 65'A<*5# G/*</5*A$ E */4/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning o! the Eth, the wind was light !rom the southward, and un!a"ourable !or closing in with the main landD but a water s%out brought the wind u% !rom north&east, and obliged us to double ree! the to% sails# At noon the s@ualls had mostly %assed o"er, and the shore, which then eBtended !rom 5# /# by 5# to G# 5# G#, was distant !i"e miles in the nearest %artD our latitude being then 1+ deg# -21L2' south, and longitude 12E deg# -I' east# Ge continued to steer westward till !i"e o'cloc , at nearly the same distance !rom the land, and in soundings between M and 2 !athomsD the wind then drew !orward, and the trending o! the shore being G# <# G#, we could barely lie along it# At se"en, tac ed !or dee%er waterD and in hal! an hour anchored in - !athoms, sand and shells, the land being distant !i"e or siB miles, and the !urthest eBtreme !rom the mast head bearing <# K, deg# G# A meridian altitude o! the star AAchernarA ga"e the latitude 1+ deg# 2I 2L2'D and !rom the sun's western am%litude the "ariation was - deg# 1,', with the shi%'s head <# G#, or 2 deg# 2K' east, corrected to the meridian# The main land, !rom Gellesley's 6slands to this anchorage, is o! the same descri%tion as that along which we had %re"iously sailed a hundred and ninety leagues, being a "ery low, woody country, !ronted by a sandy beachD there are some slight wa"ings in the shore, but so slight, that not any %art o! it could be set twice# This tedious uni!ormity began, howe"er, to be somewhat bro enD !or a range o! low hills was %ercei"ed at three or !our leagues inland, and the sinuosities o! the shore were becoming more distinguishable( two smo es were seen during the day# T9;)5*A$ I */4/MB/) 1E,2 8ur %rogress neBt morning was "ery little, until the sea breeJe set inD and we were then obliged, !rom the more northern trending o! the coast, to ee% u% to the wind# The soundings "aried between + and 2 !athomsD and at !i"e in the e"ening diminished rather suddenly to 21L2, on a roc y bottom, two or three miles !rom the land# Ge then tac ed, and wor ed to windward till dar , when the anchor was dro%%ed in -1L2 !athoms u%on roc y ground co"ered with mudD but as there was little wind and no sea, the anchor held# The obser"ed latitude here, !rom the moon, was 1+ deg# 2E', and longitude by time ee%er 12E deg# +1L2' east# *uring the night, the wind came as usual o!! the landD and in the morning .F)6*A$ 1, */4/MB/) 1E,23 we lay u% <# by G#, nearly %arallel to the then direction o! the coast# At ten, the sea breeJe set in at <# by G#D and !rom that time until e"ening we wor ed to windward, tac ing !rom the shore when the de%th diminished to 21L2 !athoms, and stretching in again when it increased to +D the distances !rom the land being in miles, as nearly as might be what the de%th was in !athoms, a coincidence which had been obser"ed in some %arts on the east side o! the Gul%h# At sunset, a hilloc u%on a %rojecting %oint bore <# K2 deg# G# !our miles, and behind it was a small o%ening which answered in situation to the A)i"er Van Al%henA

o! the old chartD our last tac was then made !rom the shoreD and at dus we anchored in - !athoms, coarse sand and gra"el# Variation !rom am%litude, with the head G# by <#, - deg# -M', or corrected to the meridian, 2 deg# 2E' east, nearly as on the Eth# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 5AT;)*A$ 11 */4/MB/) 1E,2 At daylight, we steered northward with a land windD and when the sea breeJe came, stretched G# 5# G# towards the shore# At noon, 'atitude obser"ed, 1+ deg# 111L2' 'ongitude by time ee%er, 12K M2 The eBtremes o! the land bore 5# 21 deg# /# to EI G# <earest %art, dist# 2 miles, 5# 2M G# 5mall o%ening, su%%osed )# Van Al%hen, 5# 2 G# This o%ening may be hal! a mile in width, but a dry sand runs across !rom the west side, and le!t no %ros%ect o! its being accessible to the shi%D the shoal water, indeed, eBtended !urther out than usual, being caused, %robably, by a de%osit o! sand !rom the inlet# The range o! low hills, be!ore mentioned as running behind the coast, was still %ercei"edD but in !ront, the country was low as be!ore, and somewhat less co"ered with wood# The direction o! the coast, which had been !rom north to north&west the day be!ore, was now again G# <# G#D and a!ter ma ing a tac at noon, in 2 !athoms, and stretching o!! !or an hour, we lay along it till near eight o'cloc # At that time the de%th diminished !rom 21L2, suddenly to 21L2 !athomsD and be!ore the helm was %ut down the shi% touched u%on a roc , and hung aba!t# By ee%ing the sails !ull she went o!! into 2 !athoms, but in !i"e minutes hung u%on another roc D and the water being more shallow !urther on, the head sails were now laid abac # 8n swinging o!!, 6 !illed to stretch out by the way we had comeD and a!ter another slight touch o! the eel we got into dee% water, and anchored in - !athoms, on a bottom o! blue mud# The bad state o! the shi% would ha"e made our situation amongst these roc s "ery alarming, had we not cleared them so @uic lyD but the water was "ery smooth at this time, and it could not be %ercei"ed that any injury had been sustained# 8ur distance here !rom the shore was three miles# 6t is "ery low and bro en, with many dry roc s and ban s lying near itD and in the s%ace o! se"en or eight miles we had counted !i"e small o%enings, and behind them some lagoons were %ercei"ed !rom the mast head# AThe Abel Tasman's )i"erA o! the old chart is mar ed in about this situationD and howe"er little these shallow o%enings and salt lagoons resemble a ri"er, there is no other %lace to which the name could ha"e been a%%lied# 6 was %re%aring to ta e altitudes o! the star A)igelA, to ascertain our longitude at this anchorage, when it was !ound that the time ee%ers had sto%%ed, my assistant ha"ing !orgotten to wind them u% at noon# 6n the morning .5;<*A$ 12 */4/MB/) 1E,23 they were set !orward, and altitudes o! the sun ta en to !ind their errors !rom the time under this meridian# The moon and %lanet Mars had been obser"ed in the night, !rom which, and the

noon's obser"ation !ollowing, the latitude o! the anchorage was ascertained to be 1+ deg# K1L2'D and a %rojection on the west side o! the )# Van Al%hen, which had been the nearest shore at the %receding noon, was now set at 5# +-1L2 deg# /# From these AdataA and !rom the log, 6 ascertained the di!!erence o! longitude, !rom hal! %ast ten in the morning o! the 11th, when the last obser"ations !or the time ee%ers had been ta en, to be 2,' 1ECD and that this anchorage was in 12K deg# 2K' 1EC east# The errors !rom mean Greenwich time were thence obtainedD and they were carried on as be!ore, with the rates !ound at 5weers' 6sland, which it was to be %resumed, had undergone no alteration !rom the letting down, since none had been caused by !ormer accidents o! the same ind# An am%litude ta en when the shi%'s head was G# <# G#, ga"e "ariation 2 deg# -+', or 1 deg# -K' east, corrected to the meridianD being nearly a degree less than on the east side o! the )i"er Van Al%hen, when the land lay to the west o! the shi%# 5oon a!ter se"en o'cloc the anchor was weighedD and the breeJe being at <# G#, we stretched o!! till noon, when the obser"ed latitude !rom both sides was 1+ deg# 2' 11C, and the land was nine or ten miles distantD but the only %art "isible !rom the dec was the range o! low hills, two or three leagues behind the shore# Ge then tac ed to the westward, and e%t closing in with the coast until sunsetD at which time the corrected "ariation was 1 deg# -K' east, as on the %receding e"ening, and the !ollowing bearings were ta en# /astern eBtreme o! the shore 5# 21 deg# /# 5mall o%ening, dist# - or M miles, 5# M- G# Gestern eBtreme o! the main, a sandy head, <# KM G# Beyond the head, much higher land than any we had %assed in the gul%h was seen !rom alo!t as !ar as <# G# by <# This 6 eB%ected was the 4a%e Vanderlin o! the old chartD and i! so, there ought to be a large double bay between it and the sandy headD and in !act, no land was "isible there in a s%ace o! two %oints# 8ur course along the shore was %rolonged till dus , when we tac ed in 21L2 !athomsD and on getting -1L2, came to an anchor u%on !ine sandy ground# 6n the morning .M8<*A$ 12 */4/MB/) 1E,23, the wind was light !rom the south&westward, and little %rogress was made until the sea breeJe set in# At noon, our situation was in 'atitude, obser"ed to the north a"id south, 1M deg# M,' 21C 'ongitude by time ee%er, 12K 1I1L2 Gest eBtreme o! the sandy head, dist# K miles, 5# 2- G# 'and o! 4a%e Vanderlin, <# 2E deg# to 5# EE G# 'and o! 4a%e Vanderlin, highest %art, <# M+ G# 'and o! 4a%e Vanderlin, sandy east %oint, dist# + miles, <# -K G# 'ow islet o!! the south end#, 5# KK1L2 to 5# EM G# Many roc s are scattered along the east side o! this landD some o! them are stee%, and one, which we a%%roached within a mile soon a!ter one o'cloc , resembled the crown o! a hat# The whale boat was then sent towards the o%ening, and we bore away 5# G# by 5# a!ter herD but the water shoaling !ast, and loo ing worse ahead, we hauled out close to the wind, and wor ed northwardD anchoring at dus , two or three miles !rom the east %oint o! the northern land, in + !athoms, coarse sand and

shells# The main coast on the south side o! the o%ening had been seen eBtending G# <# G#, two or three leagues !rom the sandy headD it was low as e"er, and there was no a%%earance o! the northern land, which was hilly and roc y, being connected with itD and 6 there!ore called the se%arated %iece AVanderlin's 6slandA# 9a"ing no %ros%ect o! being able to get the shi% u% the o%ening, we %roceeded northward neBt morning .T;/5*A$ 1*/4/MB/) 1E,23, along the east side o! the islandD but the wind being directly contrary, it was sunset be!ore the outermost o! the scattered roc s could be weatheredD soon a!terward the anchor was dro%%ed in + !athoms, one mile and a @uarter !rom the north&east %oint, and something more !rom the outer roc s which bore 5# +2 deg# /# The north %oint o! the island, which is the true 4a%e Vanderlin, bore <# K1 deg# G#, and was distant three or !our miles( its utmost eBtremity lies in 1M deg# 2-1L2' south, and 12K deg# E1L2' east# 5ome 6ndians had been seen trac ing a canoe or ra!t, along the east side, and a body o! thirty&!i"e o! them had been there collected, loo ing at the shi%# This com%arati"ely numerous %o%ulation, and the %ros%ect there was o! this island %ro"ing more than usually interesting to the naturalists, made me desirous o! !inding a secure anchorage near itD and in the morning .G/*</5*A$ 1M */4/MB/) 1E,23 we landed at the north&east %oint, which is a %eninsula joined to the island by a low sandy nec , and has three hummoc s u%on it, near the eBtremity# From the highest o! these hummoc s, 6 set two small islands in the o!!ing, to the north&west, where two are laid down in the old chartD and saw more land to the west o! 4a%e Vanderlin, a%%arently a large and distinct island# The water between them was eBtensi"eD and as it %romised to a!!ord good shelter, we returned on board a!ter a short eBamination, in order to wor the shi% into it# A hard, close&grained sand stone !orms the basis o! the north&east %oint o! Vanderlin's 6slandD but the hummoc s and the u%%er roc s are calcareous, similar to 6ns%ection 9ill at the head o! the Gul%h# The soil is "ery sandy, and %oorly clothed with "egetationD though in the more central %arts o! the island the hills seemed to be moderately well co"ered with wood# There were !oot mar s o! men, dogs, and angaroos, and trac s o! turtle near the shoreD but none o! the men, nor o! the animals, were seen# Ge got under way soon a!ter ten o'cloc with a breeJe !rom the north&westward, and were obliged to ma e a long stretch to sea be!ore 4a%e Vanderlin could be weathered# Towards e"ening we came in with a small ree!, lying <# -, deg# /# two&and&hal! miles !rom the eBtremity o! the ca%eD and this, with the lateness o! the hour, ma ing it haJardous to run into the new o%ening, we anchored at dus , under the easternmost o! the two small islands in the o!!ing, in + !athoms, coral sand and roc # The white beach here seemed to be so !a"ourable a situation !or turtle, that an o!!icer with a %arty o! men was sent on shore to watch themD but he returned immediately, on !inding the beach to be not sand, but %ieces o! coral bleached white by the sun, which bore no traces o! turtle# .<8)T9 48A5T# P/''/G'5 G)8;P#3 T9;)5*A$ 1+ */4/MB/) 1E,2 6 landed early in the morning, with the botanical gentlemen, to ta e bearingsD and amongst them set the craggy north end o! the western

island#, which 6 call A4a%e PellewA, at 5# EK deg# G#, distant three or !our miles# 6t lies in latitude 1+ deg# 2,1L2', longitude 12K deg# 2', and there is a roc lying hal! a mile o!! to the <# /#D indeed these two small isles and another roc may be considered as also lying o!!, and a%%ertaining to it# The basis o! the easternmost and largest isle was !ound to be the same close&grained sand stone as at Vanderlin's 6slandD but the sur!ace consisted o! loose %ieces o! coral, with a slight intermiBture o! "egetable soil, %roducing a !ew shrubs and small bushes( there were no traces either o! men or turtle# 8n our return to the shi%, we steered !or the o%ening between the 4a%es Vanderlin and PellewD the wind was !rom the north&westward, and this being now the most settled @uarter !or it, we anchored under the western island, in -1L2 !athoms so!t bottom, hal! a mile !rom the shoreD with the eBtremes bearing <# 2M deg# /# one mile, and 5# 22 deg# G# two miles# An outer roc y islet near 4a%e Vanderlin bore <# K, deg# /#, and a small island within hal! a mile o! the shi% co"ered !i"e %oints in the south&eastern @uarterD to the south there was "ery little land "isible, but no sea was to be !eared !rom that sideD and the sole direction in which we were not sheltered, was between <# <# /# and /# <# /# The botanical gentlemen landed abreast o! the shi%, and lieutenant Flinders went to commence a series o! obser"ations !or the rates o! the time ee%ers on the small isle, thence called A8bser"ation 6slandA# My attention was attracted by a co"e in the western shore, u%on the borders o! which, more abundantly than elsewhere, grew a small ind o! cabbage %alm, !rom whence it was called A4abbage&tree 4o"eA# This %resented the a%%earance o! a com%lete little harbourD and su%%osing it to a!!ord !resh water, was just such a %lace as 6 wished !or the shi%, during the time necessary !or ma ing an eBamination o! the islands in my whale boat# 6 !ound the co"e to run near two miles into the island, and there was a small rill at the headD but un!ortunately, the de%th at the entrance was insu!!icient !or the shi%, being no more than 2 !athoms, and in the u%%er %art it was too shallow e"en !or a boat# F)6*A$ 1K */4/MB/) 1E,2 6n the morning, a %arty o! men was sent to cut wood at the nearest shoreD and there being a sort o! beach, unco"ered at low tide, the seine was hauled there with some success# A small drain o! !resh water ran behind the mangro"es at the bac o! the beach, and by cutting a rolling way to it, our em%ty cas s, it was thought, might be !illedD but 6 ho%ed to !ind a better %lace, and went away in the boat, as well with that object in "iew as to carry on the sur"ey# From the !urthest %art o! the western island "isible !rom the shi%, 6 !ound the shore trending 5# K2 deg# G#, to a %oint where there was an o%ening out to the westward, o! a mile and a hal! wide and o! considerable de%th# About three leagues u% the o%ening were two craggy islandsD and beyond them was more eBtensi"e land, which %ro"ed to be an island also, and !rom its situation in this grou% was called AGest 6slandA# The island whose north end is 4a%e Pellew, and whose southern eBtremity 6 had now reached, was called A<orth 6slandAD and the land o%%osite to me, which !ormed the south side o! the o%ening and seemed to be eBtensi"e, is mar ed with the name o! A4entre 6slandA in the chart# These lands are moderately high, and seemed to !orm se"eral co"es and small inlets, with %romise o! runs o! !resh waterD but the weather was too un!a"ourable to ma e much eBamination at this time, and a!ter ta ing bearings !rom the south and south&east %oints o! <orth 6sland, 6 returned on board#

5AT;)*A$ 1E */4/MB/) 1E,2 The wooding o! the shi% was carried on neBt dayD and although the weather remained s@ually, with !re@uent hea"y rain, some !urther bearings were obtained, and obser"ations ta en !or the time ee%ers# 6n the morning o! the 1Ith .5;<*A$ 1I */4/MB/) 1E,23, the weather cleared, and 6 too the shi% o"er to 4a%e VanderlinD both !or the con"enience o! the sur"ey, and to gi"e the botanical gentlemen a better o%%ortunity o! eBamining that island, which a%%eared to be the most interesting, as it was the largest o! the grou%# Besides three roc y islets, lying o!! the west side o! the ca%e, there is a small island one mile to the south&west, and 6 sought to anchor behind itD but being %re"ented by a shoal which eBtends southward !rom the island, the anchor was dro%%ed hal! a mile without side, in -1L2 !athoms, muddy ground# A!ter the latitude had been obser"ed, and bearings ta en !rom the island, we crossed o"er in the boat to 4a%e Vanderlin# There was a de%th o! - to K !athoms between them, with a %assage leading in !rom the north, and a shi% would lie here in %er!ect sa!ety during the south&east monsoonD but with the %resent north&west winds and s@ually weather, this otherwise good anchorage was not e@ual to the %lace we had @uitted# The highest %arts o! 4a%e Vanderlin are hilloc s o! almost bare sandD on the isthmus behind it were many shrubs and bushes, and amongst the latter was !ound a wild nutmeg, in tolerable abundance# The !ruit was small, and not ri%eD but the mace and the nut had a hot, s%icy taste# There was no a%%earance o! !resh water here, nor was the shi% in a situation sa!e to remain all nightD so soon, there!ore, as my bearings were ta en !rom the to% o! 4a%e Vanderlin, we returned on board, and steered !or the o%ening between <orth and 4entre 6slands# At dus , the anchor was dro%%ed in + !athoms, muddy ground, a little within the o%eningD where we had land at di!!erent distances all round, with the eBce%tion o! one %oint to the G# <# G# T;/5*A$ 21 */4/MB/) 1E,2 *uring the two days we remained here, 6 eBamined a shallow bay on the east side o! 4entre 6sland, and went to the westward as !ar as the 4raggy 6sles, ta ing bearings !rom "arious stations# 5e"eral rills o! !resh water were !ound at the heads o! little co"es, but the de%th was not su!!icient !or the shi% to get near any o! themD and there!ore we returned to our !irst anchorage near 4abbage&tree 4o"e .G/*</5*A$ 22 */4/MB/) 1E,23, to cut through the mangro"es and get the holds com%leted with water at the small run there# This duty 6 le!t to the care o! the !irst lieutenant, and the rates o! the time ee%ers to be continued by the secondD and went away the same a!ternoon in my boat, u%on an eBcursion o! !our days, accom%anied by Mr# Gestall, the landsca%e %ainter# The soundings we had in steering !or the west %oint o! Vanderlin's 6sland and southward along the shore, will be best nown !rom the %articular %lan o! this grou%# Bearings were ta en at two chosen stationsD and we sto%%ed in the e"ening, at the !urthest o! two small isles near the south&west side o! the island, to %ass the night without disturbance !rom the 6ndians# 6t then rained and blew hard, with thunder and lightning, and the soil being sandy and destitute o! wood to brea o!! the wind, it was with di!!iculty the tent could be securedD the islet had been "isited, and we !ound the remains o! more than one turtle !east# Amongst

the bearings set !rom hence was a %rojecting %art o! the low main land, at 5# 1I1L2 deg# G# siB or se"en miles, and it was the !urthest "isible# T9;)5*A$ 22 */4/MB/) 1E,2 Ge had more moderate weather in the morning, and went on towards the south %oint o! Vanderlin's 6slandD but sto%%ed two or three miles short o! it, at a station whence the south %oint and the low islet lying o!! were "isible, as also was the sandy head set !rom the shi% on the 12th and 12thD and !rom the bearings o! these objects my sur"ey round Vanderlin's 6sland became connected# A %art o! the sandy main coast was distant not more than !our miles to the 5# 5# G#, whence it eBtended as !ar as 5# +2 deg# G#D the water a%%eared to be too shallow !or a shi% to %ass between it and the island# A !resh wind !rom the north&west %re"ented me !rom going any !urther to leewardD and it was with much di!!iculty that we rowed bac to the isle where we had %assed the night# 5trong s@ualls again came on towards e"ening, and the larger isle, lying a mile to the north&west, was chosen !or our night's residence, on account o! its a!!ording some shelterD but the lightning was so "iolent and close to us, that 6 !eared to %lace the tent near the trees# and was sur%rised in the morning, not to see hal! o! them shi"ered to %ieces( the rain !ell in torrents, during a %art o! the night# F)6*A$ 2- */4/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning the weather was better, but the wind still ad"erse to my %roject o! going o"er to the south end o! 4entre 6slandD by noon, howe"er, we reached a low islet hal! way across# where 6 obser"ed the latitude 1M deg# -2 deg# -KC, and too a set o! bearings "ery use!ul to the sur"eyD and we a!terwards made an attem%t to get o"er, and succeeded# A roc y hilloc on the south&east %oint o! 4entre 6sland, was my neBt stationD and !rom thence we %roceeded westward along the south side, to a low islet near the south&west %oint, !or the %ur%ose o! landing, the sun being then setD but the islet %ro"ing to be a mere mud ban co"ered with mangro"es, we rowed onward to the large 5outh&west 6sland, in "ery shallow waterD and there %assed a night which, ha%%ily !or the !atigued boat's crew, turned out !ine# 5AT;)*A$ 2M */4/MB/) 1E,2 6 too aJimuths and some bearings in the morning, and we then %roceeded northward through a small %assage between the 4entre and 5outh&west 6slandsD there was M !athoms in the "ery narrow %art, but no dee% water withinD and without side, it was also "ery shoal !or two or three miles# <ear the north&west %oint o! 4entre 6sland lies an islet and two roc s, and !rom the cli!!y north end o! the islet another set o! bearings was ta enD a!ter which we steered eastward, sounding along the north side o! 4entre 6sland# 6t was noon when we reached the north&east %oint, and 6 obser"ed the latitude 1M deg# 2I' 2MC u%on the south&east end o! a roc y islet there, and too more bearings !rom the to%D and in the a!ternoon, we reached the shi%# Very little has been said u%on the islands or their %roductions, or u%on the "arious traces o! nati"e inhabitants and o! !ormer "isitors !ound in this, and in !ormer boat eBcursionsD the obser"ations on these heads being intended !or the general and conclusi"e remar s u%on this grou%#

These are now to be gi"enD !or the wooding and watering were com%leted on the day a!ter my return .5;<*A$ 2+ */4/MB/) 1E,23, and the shi% was then ready to %roceed in the eBamination o! the Gul%h# 6n the old *utch chart, 4a%e Vanderlin is re%resented to be a great %rojection !rom the main land, and the outer ends o! <orth and Gest 6slands to be smaller %oints o! it# There are two indents or bights mar ed between the %oints, which may corres%ond to the o%enings between the islandsD but 6 !ind di!!iculty in %ointing out which are the !our small isles laid down to the west o! 4a%e VanderlinD neither does the line o! the coast, which is nearly G# 5# G# in the old chart, corres%ond with that o! the outer ends o! the islands, and yet there is enough o! similitude in the whole to show the identity# Ghether any change ha"e ta en %lace in these shores, and made islands o! what were %arts o! the main land a century and a hal! be!ore&&or whether the *utch disco"erer made a distant and cursory eBamination, and brought conjecture to aid him in the construction o! a chart, as was too much the %ractice o! that time&&it is %erha%s not now %ossible to ascertainD but 6 concei"e that the great alteration %roduced in the geogra%hy o! these %arts by our sur"ey, gi"es authority to a%%ly a name which, without %rejudice to the original one, should mar the nation by which the sur"ey was madeD and in com%liment to a distinguished o!!icer o! the British na"y, whose earnest endea"ours to relie"e me !rom o%%ression in a subse@uent %art o! the "oyage demand my gratitude 6 ha"e called this cluster o! islands 56) /*GA)* P/''/G'5 G)8;P# The s%ace occu%ied by these islands is thirty&!our miles east and west, by twenty&two miles o! latitudeD and the !i"e %rinci%al islands are !rom se"en to se"enteen miles in length# The stone which seems to !orm the basis o! the grou% is a hard, close&grained sand stone, with a small admiBture o! @uartJ, and in one or two instances it was slightly im%regnated with ironD calcareous, or coral roc was sometimes !ound at the u%%er %arts, but the hard sand stone was more common# Ghere the sur!ace is not bare roc , it consists o! sand, with a greater or less %ro%ortion o! "egetable soil, but in no case did 6 see any near a%%roach to !ertilityD yet all the larger islands, and more es%ecially the western side o! Vanderlin's, are tolerably well co"ered with trees and bushes, and in some low %laces there is grass# As in most other %arts o! Terra Australis, the common trees here are "arious s%ecies o! the Aeucaly%tusA, mostly di!!erent !rom, and smaller than those o! the /ast and 5outh 4oasts# The cabbage %alm, a new genus named by Mr# Brown A'i"istona inermisA, is abundantD but the cabbage is too small to be an interesting article o! !ood to a shi%'s com%anyD o! the young lea"es, drawn into sli%s and dried, the seamen made handsome light hats, eBcellent !or warm weather# The nutmeg was !ound %rinci%ally on Vanderlin's 6sland, growing u%on a large s%reading bushD but the !ruit being unri%e, no accurate judgment could be !ormed o! its @uality# Amongst the "ariety o! other %lants disco"ered by the naturalist, were two shrubs belonging to the genus A5antalumA, o! which the sandel wood, used as a %er!ume in the /ast, is also oneD but this a!!inity to so "aluable a tree being not nown at the time, !rom the descri%tion o! the genus being im%er!ect, no eBamination was made o! it with that object in "iew# All the larger islands seem to %ossess the angarooD !or though none were seen, their !oot mar s were %erce%tible in most o! the sandy %laces where 6 landed( the s%ecies seemed to be small# 6n the woods were haw s, %igeons o! two inds, and some bustardsD and on the shore were seen a

%retty ind o! duc and the usual sea !owl# Turtle trac s were obser"ed on most o! the beaches, but more es%ecially on the smaller islands, where remains o! turtle !easts were generally !ound# There were traces o! 6ndians on all the islands, both large and small, but the latter are "isited only at timesD these %eo%le seemed to be e@ually desirous o! a"oiding communication with strangers, as those o! Gellesley's 6slands, !or we saw them only once at a distance, !rom the shi%# Two canoes !ound on the shore o! <orth 6sland were !ormed o! sli%s o! bar , li e %lan s, sewed together, the edge o! one sli% o"erlaying another, as in our clincher&built boatsD their breadth was about two !eet, but they were too much bro en !or the length to be nown# 6 cannot be certain that these canoes were the !abrication o! the nati"es, !or there were some things near them which a%%ertained, without doubt, to another %eo%le, and their construction was much su%erior to that on any %art o! Terra Australis hitherto disco"eredD but their substance o! bar s%o e in the a!!irmati"e# The same degree o! doubt was attached to a small monument !ound on the same island# ;nder a shed o! bar were set u% two cylindrical %ieces o! stone, about eighteen inches longD which seemed to ha"e been ta en !rom the shore, where they had been made smooth !rom rolling in the sur!, and !ormed into a sha%e something li e a nine %in# )ound each o! them were drawn two blac circles, one towards each endD and between them were !our o"al blac %atches, at e@ual distances round the stone, made a%%arently with charcoal# The s%aces between the o"al mar s were co"ered with white down and !eathers, stuc on with the yol o! a turtle's egg, as 6 judged by the gluten and by the shell lying near the %lace# 8! the intention in setting u% these stones under a shed, no %erson could !orm a reasonable conjectureD the !irst idea was, that it had some relation to the dead, and we dug underneath to satis!y our curiosityD but nothing was !ound# This sim%le monument is re%resented in the anneBed %late, with two o! the duc s near it( the land in the bac ground is Vanderlin's 6sland# 6ndications o! some !oreign %eo%le ha"ing "isited this grou% were almost as numerous, and as widely eBtended as those le!t by the nati"es# Besides %ieces o! earthen jars and trees cut with aBes, we !ound remnants o! bamboo lattice wor , %alm lea"es sewed with cotton thread into the !orm o! such hats as are worn by the 4hinese, and the remains o! blue cotton trousers, o! the !ashion called moormans# A wooden anchor o! one !lu e, and three boats rudders o! "iolet wood were also !oundD but what %uJJled me most was a collection o! stones %iled together in a line, resembling a low wall, with short lines running %er%endicularly at the bac , di"iding the s%ace behind into com%artments# 6n each o! these were the remains o! a charcoal !ire, and all the wood near at hand, had been cut down# Mr# Brown saw on another island a similar construction, with not less than thirty&siB %artitions, o"er which was laid a rude %iece o! !rame wor D and the neighbouring mangro"es, to the eBtent o! an acre and a hal!, had been cut down# 6t was e"ident that these %eo%le were Asiatics, but o! what %articular nation, or what their business here, could not be ascertainedD 6 sus%ected them, howe"er, to be 4hinese, and that the nutmegs might %ossibly be their object# From the traces amongst Gellesley's 6slands, they had been conjectured to be shi%wrec ed %eo%leD but that o%inion did not now a%%ear to be correct# The barometer stood here !rom 2I#I+ to 2I#+2 inches, being highest with the winds at north&east, and lowest with those !rom the southwardD in the hea"y s@ualls o! wind, rain, thunder, and lightning !rom the north&west, the mercury stood at a medium ele"ation# 8n board the shi%, the a"erage standard o! the thermometer was nearly EM deg## 8n shore it was hotter, yet

the mus etoes were not "ery troublesomeD but the common blac !lies, !rom their eBtraordinary numbers and their im%udence, were scarcely less annoying than mus etoesD they get into the mouth and nose, and settle u%on the !ace or any other %art o! the body, with as much unconcern as they would alight on a gum treeD nor are they dri"en away easily# This was the case on shore, and on board the shi% whilst lying at anchor, and !or a day or two a!terwardsD but the society o! man wrought a change in the manners e"en o! these little animals# They soon became more cautious, went o!! when a hand was li!ted u%, and in three or !our days a!ter @uitting the land, beha"ed themsel"es orderly, li e other !liesD and though still numerous on board, they ga"e little molestation# *am%ier !ound these insects e@ually troublesome on the <orth&west 4oastD !or he says >Vol# 6# %# -+-?, s%ea ing o! the nati"es, CTheir eye&lids are always hal! closed, to ee% the !lies out o! their eyesD they being so troublesome here, that no !anning will ee% them !rom coming to one's !aceD and without the assistance o! both hands to ee% them o!!, they will cree% into one's nostrils, and mouth too, i! the li%s are not shut "ery close#C 5ir /dward Pellew's Grou%, as will be seen by a re!erence to the %lan, a!!ords numerous anchorages against both the south&east and north&west monsoonD but unless it should be within the two small isles near the south&west side o! Vanderlin's 6sland, where the de%th was not well ascertained, there is not a single harbour, the di!!erent bays and co"es being too shallow to admit a shi%# Good !or !uel is easy to be %rocuredD and water may be had in *ecember, and %robably as late as A%ril or May, but 6 thin not a!terwards# The most accessible watering %lace we could !ind, was at the bac o! the mangro"es near our %rinci%al anchorage, within the east %oint o! <orth 6sland, where, with some trouble, our cas s were !illedD and at a beach there, le!t dry at low water, the seine was hauled with some success# At Vanderlin's 6sland there are many beaches !it !or the seineD and indeed it seemed su%erior to the other islands as well !or this, as !or e"ery other %ur%ose, when a shi% can lie thereD it is also the most !re@uented by the 6ndians, and may %robably ha"e !iBed inhabitants# The AlatitudeA o! 8bser"ation 6sland, !rom two meridian altitudes to the north and south, is 1M deg# 2+' -+C 5# A'ongitudeA !rom siB sets o! distances o! the sun east o! the moon, gi"en in Table 6V# o! A%%endiB <o# 1, 12K deg# +' -2CD but by the time ee%er <o# M-2 corrected, it is %re!erably 12K deg# 2' 1MC /# The rates o! the time ee%ers were !ound !rom a!ternoon's altitudes in an arti!icial horiJon, between the 1+th and 2+thD and the means, with their errors !rom mean Greenwich time, at noon there on the last day o! obser"ation, were as under( /arnshaw's <o# M-2, slow 2h 2I' 11#1KC and losing 1-#I2C %er day /arnshaw's <o# M2,, slow -h 11' 2K#MIC and losing 2E#2MC %er day This rate o! <o# M-2 is only ,#1IC more than that !ound at 5weers' 6sland, and so !ar as the siB sets o! lunars may be relied on, the longitude by this time ee%er was not !ar !rom the truthD the letting down on the %assage there!ore did not seem to ha"e %roduced any changeD but in <o# M2,, the rate is more than EC greater, and the longitude was getting 11L2' %er day too much to the east, as well be!ore as a!ter it was let down# The coast !rom 5weers' to 8bser"ation 6sland is conse@uently laid down by <o# M-2, with the small accelerating correction

arising !rom the ,#1IC increase o! rate in 1+#- days# AVariationA o! the theodolite, obser"ed on the east side o! 5outh&west 6sland, 2 deg# 22' east# 6n the bearings ta en at di!!erent %arts within the grou%, the "ariation seemed to di!!er !rom 2 deg# 2,' to l deg# 2,'# The largest "ariations were on the east sides o! the islands, and the smallest on the west sidesD seeming to show an attraction o! the land u%on the south end o! the needle# 8n board the shi%, when coasting along the east side o! Vanderlin's 6sland, and the whole grou% lay to the west, the "ariation a%%eared !rom the bearings to be as much as - deg# east# The best obser"ation made on the AtideA, was on the 22rd, during my boat eBcursion to the south end o! Vanderlin's 6sland# 8n that morning the moon %assed o"er the meridian at siBteen minutes %ast ten, and the %er%endicular mo"ements o! the tide were as !ollows# At se"en o'cloc , when 6 le!t the shore, the tide was !allingD on landing at nine it was stationary, and a%%eared to be low waterD at noon it rose !ast, and at three was still rising, and continued so to do, but slowly, until se"en in the e"ening, The tide then began to !allD but a!ter subsiding one !oot, it rose again until ten o'cloc , and had then attained its greatest height# 'ow water too %lace there!ore about an hour be!ore, and high water at Aele"en hours and a @uarter a!terA the moon %assed the meridian( the rise a%%eared to be !rom !our to se"en !eet# At Gellesley's 6slands high water had ta en %lace an hour and a hal! earlier, which seems eBtraordinary, i!, as it necessarily must, the !lood come !rom the northward# 6 thin it "ery %robable, that the tide in both %laces will !ollow what was obser"ed in =ing George's 5ound on the 5outh 4oastD where high water, a!ter becoming gradually later till midnight, ha%%ened on the !ollowing day be!ore se"en in the e"ening, and then later as be!ore# The brea o! three hours in the tide here, is somewhat remar able( it was not obser"ed amongst Gellesley's 6slands, where the tide ran twel"e hours each wayD but was !ound to increase as we %roceeded west and northward until it became siB hours, and the tides assumed the usual course# 49APT/) V666# *e%arture !rom 5ir /dward Pellew's Grou%# 4oast !rom thence westward# 4a%e Maria !ound to be an island# 'immen's Bight# 4oast northward to 4a%e Barrow( landing on it# 4ircumna"igation o! Groote /ylandt# 5%ecimens o! nati"e art at 4hasm 6sland# Anchorage in <orth&west Bay, Groote /ylandtD with remar s and nautical obser"ations# Blue&mud Bay# 5 irmish with the nati"es# 4a%e 5hield# Mount Grindall# 4oast to 4aledon Bay# 8ccurrences in that bay, with remar s on the country and inhabitants# Astronomical and nautical obser"ations# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 M8<*A$ 2K */4/MB/) 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate H6V#?

At daylight o! *ec# 2K, we got under way !rom Pellew's Grou%D and %assing between the small isles near 4a%e Pellew, stretched o!! to sea with a !resh breeJe at G# <# G# At noon the ca%e bore 5# 2+ deg# G# !our leagues, and towards e"ening we weathered it, ha"ing 1, !athoms water at the distance o! !i"e milesD the soundings a!terwards diminished gradually to -1L2 !athoms, at two miles !rom Gest 6sland, where the anchor was dro%%ed on a muddy bottom, !or the night# <eBt morning .T;/5*A$ 2E */4/MB/) 1E,23, the wind being still at north&west, we again stretched out to seaD and at noon, when the latitude was 1M deg# 2-', 4a%e Pellew bore 5# +, deg# /# !our leagues# Ge were then standing south&westwardD and at three o'cloc , Gest 6sle bore !rom 5# K- deg# /# to about 5outh, the last eBtreme being hidden by an islet and roc distant two&and&hal! miles# The main coast was in sight to the south and westward, and we stood !or it until siBD the shi% was then tac ed to the north&east, in 2 !athoms, the shore being three miles o!!, and eBtending !rom behind Gest 6sland to <# 2+ deg# G# 6t was low, mostly sandy, and co"ered with wood behind the beachesD and eBce%t that some %laces on the shore were roc y, it altogether resembled the more eastern %arts o! the gul%h# At dus , the anchor was let go in + !athoms, mud and shells# G/*</5*A$ 2I */4/MB/) 1E,2 A small ree! was seen in the morning, two miles to the north&east o! the shi%, and about se"en !rom the coast# Ge %assed hal! a mile to windward o! it with 21L2 !athoms, and stretched o!! to sea until noon, with the usual north&western windD the latitude was then 1M deg# K', longitude 12M deg# -,', and we tac ed towards the land, which was not in sight !rom the mast head# At siB in the e"ening it was distant two leagues, and the eBtremes bore 5# 2+ deg# /# to K- deg# G#, the !irst being the same %art which had been set at <# 2+ deg# G#, the e"ening be!ore# At se"en, we tac ed !rom the shore in 21L2 !athoms, and on the water dee%ening to -, anchored on coarse sandy ground# 6n wor ing along the shore neBt day .T9;)5*A$ 2, */4/MB/) 1E,23, we met with a shoal o! sand and roc s#, as !ar as three leagues o!! the landD the outer %art, u%on which we had less than 21L2 !athoms at noon, lying in 1M deg# 12' south and 12+ deg# 1+' east# A!ter getting clear o! this danger, we stretched o!! until dus D and then anchored in I !athoms, grey sand, some bac hills being "isible in the 5# G# by G#, but no %art o! the low shore# F)6*A$ 21 */4/MB/) 1E,2 Ge had the wind at G# by 5# in the morning, and stood o!! until noon, nine or ten leagues !rom the coastD two small lum%s o! land were then seen, bearing 5# M2 deg# and ME deg# G#, and at the mast head they were %ercei"ed to join, and a%%arently to !orm an island# 8n the wind "eering to the south and eastward we steered !or it, and be!ore sunset got to an anchor in a small bay on its south side, in - !athomsD the eBtremes o! the island bearing <# E1 deg# /# one mile and a hal!, to 5# E2 deg# G# three miles# The main land was "isible three or !our leagues to the southward, and a %rojecting %art o! the bac hills, which at !irst made li e a head land, bore 5# 2 deg# G# A similar error to that at the 4a%es Van *iemen and Vanderlin has been made here in the *utch chart, this island being re%resented as a %rojection o! the main land, and called 4a%e Maria# To the west o! it is mar ed a large bay or bight, called 'immen's Bogt, where the coast turns north&eastward to a %rojecting ca%e without name, which has a shoal, !orty miles in length, running out !rom itD and between this shoal and

4a%e Maria, is laid down a small island# 6n these %articulars, the old chart was !ound to be correct as to the general matter o! !act, but erroneous in the !orms and %ositions# 5AT;)*A$ 1 :A<;A)$ 1E,2 Fires were seen at night, u%on the islandD and early in the morning 6 landed with the botanical gentlemen, to eBamine the %roductions and ta e bearings# My attention was attracted by something li e a nati"e's hut, which %ro"ed to be an ant hill com%osed o! red earth, about eight !eet high, and !ormed li e a haycoc D the inhabitants were the same !eeble race o! insect as be!ore seen at the Prince o! Gales' 6slands, and the least %ressure was su!!icient to crush them# From the highest hill on the south side o! the island, 6 set the !urthest "isible eBtremity o! the main land to the eastward, near which is a low islet, at 5# 21 deg# M,' /#D !rom thence it eBtended %ast the %rojecting %art o! the hills to <# E, deg# G#, where it was lost in 'immen's BightD but re&a%%earing 1+ deg# !urther north, it was distinguishable to <# 22 deg# G# The length o! the island is about se"en miles, <# /# and 5# G#, by a "ariable breadth !rom one to !our milesD and its northern eBtremity, to which 6 continue the name o! A4a%e MariaA, lies in 1- deg# M,' south, and 12M deg# M21L2' east# A slaty roc seemed to !orm its basisD the sur!ace is hilly, well co"ered with wood, and grass grows u% !rom amongst the loose stonesD and notwithstanding its barren soil, the a%%earance !rom the shi% was green and %leasant# That men were u%on the island was shown by the !ires, and it was corroborated by the !resh %rints o! !eet u%on the sandD but they eluded our search, and we did not !ind either canoes or habitations# 8n returning to the shi% at nine o'cloc , we stretched southward !or the main coast, with the wind at west# Ghen within !i"e or siB miles, the water shoaled to 21L2 !athomsD and the shi% being !ound to dri!t to leeward with the tide, a stream anchor was dro%%ed# There seemed to be two tides here in the day, setting nearly east and west, but the rise and !all were so im%erce%tible by the lead, that it could not be nown which was the !lood# The west wind died away at noon, and being succeeded by a sea breeJe !rom the north&eastward, we steered !or 'immen's Bight so long as it lastedD and then anchored in - !athoms, blue mud, with the island o! 4a%e Maria bearing 5# M+ deg# to E+ deg# /#, ten or twel"e miles# The main land was eight or nine miles o!!, and "isible all round the Bight and as !ar as <# + deg# G#D it was low and woody, and an eBtensi"e shel"ing !lat seemed to render it inaccessible to a shi%# At se"en in the e"ening, the land wind came o!! in a strong s@uall, with thunder, lightning, and rainD a!terwards the weather clearedD and at day light .5;<*A$ 2 :A<;A)$ 1E,23 we !ollowed the line o! the coast to the northward# 6 wished to get as near to it as %ossibleD but the water shoaling to 21L2 !athoms when siB or se"en miles o!!, we ran out east, till it dee%ened to -, and then steered north&eastward, %arallel to the line o! the shoal# A low roc came in sight to seaward, which 6 too to be the small island laid down to the north&east o! 4a%e Maria, but it lies nearly north !rom it# At nine o'cloc , when the main land was distant se"en miles and the de%th + !athoms, The low roc , distant - miles, bore 5# +M1L2 deg# /#

5tation hill near 4# Maria, dist# + leagues, 5# K1L2 /# A slo%ing %art o! the main, higher than the rest, <# M, G# /Btreme !rom the mast head, <orth# 8ur latitude at noon was 1- deg# 2+' 2IC, and longitude 12M deg# M-1L2'D the main coast was se"en miles o!!, and seen !rom the mast head as !ar as <# <# /# Three miles to the <# E, deg# /# there were two dry sands, and shoal water eBtended !rom them to the north and southward, !urther than could be distinguished# Ge had already no more than 2 !athomsD but a sea breeJe ha"ing set in at /# by 5#, un!a"ourably !or going without side o! the sands, we e%t on close to the wind, ho%ing to !ind a %assage within them# The de%th "aried between E and - !athoms, till %ast !i"e o'cloc , when it diminished to 21L2, the main coast being distant !i"e or siB miles, and the sands out o! sight asternD we then tac ed, and stretched /# 5# /# into - !athoms, and anchored at dus on a bottom o! gra"el# An obser"ation o! the moon ga"e the latitude here 1- deg# 1I'D and the "ariation !rom an am%litude, with the head /# by 5#, was , deg# -2' east, or corrected to the meridian u%on the %rinci%le o!ten be!ore mentioned, 2 deg# --' east !or the true "ariation# There is no doubt that the dry ban s seen at noon, were meant to be re%resented in the *utch chart by the great shoal to the north&east o! 4a%e MariaD but their direction !rom the ca%e is there too !ar eastwardD neither do they join to the main land, nor lie out !rom it more than one&@uarter o! the distance mar ed( se"eral turtle were seen in the "icinity o! the ban s# The main coast in the northern %art o! 'immen's Bight is not altogether so low as at the headD but the shoal water eBtends e@ually !ar out, and e"en the southern head o! the gul%h is not more inaccessible to shi%s# Ge had strong s@ualls o! wind in the night, with rain, thunder, and lightning, and were obliged to dro% a second anchorD the wind, howe"er, remained in the north&east, and at daylight .M8<*A$ 2 :A<;A)$ 1E,23 we stood !or the edge o! the shoal# At se"en, tac ed shi% in 2 !athomsD and a breeJe coming o!! the land soon a!terward, we steered along the shore until noon, with a good de%th o! water# 5e"eral %ieces o! distant land, which seemed to be islands o! greater ele"ation than usual, were then seen, !rom <# by /# to /# 5# /#D the main coast was about !i"e miles o!!, and the !urthest %art bore north !rom the mast head# 8ur latitude at this time was 1- deg# M', and longitude 12+ deg# +' east# 6n the a!ternoon, the soundings became irregular between - and K !athoms, and the whale boat was sent aheadD but a !resh wind setting in at <# /#, the boat was called bac , and in being "eered astern, got !illed with water, bro e adri!t, and the two men were thrown out# Another boat was lowered down to sa"e them and 6 ran the shi% to leeward and came to an anchor# The whale boat was %ic ed u%, as also one o! the menD but the other, Gilliam Murray, ca%tain o! the !ore to%, being unable to swim, was un!ortunately lost# The weather remained s@ually, and wind unsettled during the night# 6n the morning .T;/5*A$ - :A<;A)$ 1E,23 our course was continued to the northward, lea"ing eBtensi"e land, which 6 su%%osed to be the AGroote /ylandtA o! the old charts, siB or eight leagues on the starbord hand# Be!ore commencing the in"estigation o! that island, 6 wished to trace the main coast !urther on, and i! %ossible, gi"e the botanists an o%%ortunity o! eBamining its %roductionsD !or it was u%on the main that they usually made the most interesting disco"eries, and only once, since entering the

Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, had we been able to land there# At se"en o'cloc we edged in !or the coastD and on coming into 21L2 !athoms, dro%%ed the anchor on a bottom o! blue mud, within a mile o! the shore# <o %art o! Groote /ylandt was in sightD but an island o! considerable eBtent and ele"ation, not noticed in the old chart, lay siB or se"en miles to the /# <# /#D and 6 ha"e called it B64=/)T8<'5 65'A<*, in com%liment to admiral 5ir )ichard Bic erton# Between it and the main coast is an o%en s%ace, !rom !our to siB or se"en miles wide, through which, to all a%%earance !rom this side, a shi% might sa!ely %ass# Ghilst the botanical gentlemen landed abreast o! the shi%, 6 too the whale boat to a woody islet, !i"e miles o!!, close to Bic erton's 6sland, the soundings across the o%ening in going to it, being !rom 2 to K !athoms# A meridian obser"ation to the north and south, %laced the islet in latitude 12 deg# -E' 2,C, and the %oints o! the o%ening to the northward bore <# 1E deg# /# and <# 21L2 deg# G#D this last was the !urthest "isible %art o! the main landD and %ro"ing a!terwards to be a %rojecting ca%e, 6 named it A4a%e BarrowA, a!ter :ohn Barrow# /s@#, author o! the interesting tra"els at the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# The islet is about hal! a mile long, and though many bushes and some trees grew u%on it, is little more than a bed o! sand# There were holes in the beach, made by turtleD and besides other %roo!s o! the islet being sometimes "isited by the 6ndians, 6 !ound !our human s ulls lying at the bac o! the shore# From the woody islet 6 crossed o"er to the main land near the shi%, and too another set o! bearings !or the sur"ey# ;%on the shore were %ieces o! bamboo, and other traces o! the same !oreign %eo%le o! whom mention has !re@uently been madeD and three small huts were !ound, so entirely co"ered with grass that no o%ening was le!tD but they were em%ty, and nothing was buried underneath# 8n the borders o! a small !resh la e the botanists rea%ed a har"est o! new %lants, without molestationD indeed no nati"es were seen any whereD but se"eral s eletons were !ound, standing u%right in the hollow stum%s o! treesD and the s ulls and bones being smeared or %ainted, %artly red and %artly white, made a "ery strange a%%earance# 5ome angaroos were %ercei"ed at a distanceD and judging by their !oot&mar s on the sand, they were rather numerous# The country near the sea side is stony and barrenD !urther bac , it rises gently to a small ele"ation, and seemed to be moderately well co"ered with grass and wood# G/*</5*A$ M :A<;A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning o! the Mth we got under way, and steered eastward !or Groote /ylandt, which 6 now intended to circumna"igate# 6n %assing the south side o! Bic erton's 6sland, we obser"ed in it a dee% bight or bay which would a!!ord shelter in the north&west monsoon#, i! there be de%th su!!icient !or a shi%D and the hills at the bac being high and woody, there was a %robability o! its recei"ing a stream o! !resh water# The country round the entrance o! the bight, had the a%%earance o! being sandy and sterile# Between the nearest %arts o! Groote and Bic erton's 6slands is a s%ace o! eight miles, which seemed to o!!er a %er!ectly sa!e %assage, with soundings, i! 6 may judge !rom what we had in crossing the south side, between 12 and 1K !athomsD nor can the rather high and woody isle, which lies almost eBactly in the middle o! the o%ening, be considered as %resenting any obstacle# This isle, !rom its local %osition, would seem to be the central one o! three laid down in the *utch chart between Groote /ylandt and the mainD but the latitude corres%onds with the

southernmost# 6 call it A4onneBion 6slandAD because my sur"ey round Groote /ylandt was connected by its means, and made in a great measure inde%endent o! the time ee%ers# The centre o! 4onneBion 6sland, !rom obser"ations at noon to the north and south, lies in 12 deg# M,1L2' southD and the longitude, deduced at three o'cloc when the eBtremes bore <# 2, deg# G# to 11 deg# /# !our miles, would be 12+ deg# 2K' !rom the best time ee%erD but !rom the sur"ey and lunar obser"ations, 12+ deg# 2-1L2' east should be more correct# 8ur distance !rom the west side o! Groote /ylandt at !our o'cloc , was not @uite three miles, and we then bore away southward along the shore, in E to + !athoms water# This de%th diminished gradually to - !athoms, and suddenly !rom that to 21L2D on which we steered o!! into K, and then resumed our southern course# 5oon a!ter sunset, Bic erton's island, south %oint, bore <# M2 deg# G# 4onneBion 6#, the west eBtreme#, <# 11 G# Groote /ylandt, north&west eBtreme, <# 1+ /# Groote /ylandt, central hill#, <# EK /# Groote /ylandt, a low %rojection, dist# - or M miles, 5# -2 /# 6n hal! an hour, the anchor was dro%%ed in 11 !athoms, muddy bottom# At the north&west end o! Groote /ylandt is a blu!! head, the termination that way o! a range o! woody hills !rom the interior, o! which the highest is what was set under the name o! 4entral 9ill# 8n the west side o! the island these hills do not come close to the water side, but lea"e a s%ace o! increasing breadth to the southward, where the land is low, sandy, and sterileD and e"en the hills, though mostly co"ered with wood, had little o! !ertility in their a%%earance( the shore is %artly roc , and in %art sandy beach# T9;)5*A$ + :A<;A)$ 1E,2 Ge had the wind light and "ariable in the morning, and %roceeded to the southward "ery slowly# The shore trended 5# 5# /#, !or some timeD and then turning westward to the south&west ca%e, it !ormed a bight in the low land three or !our miles bac , in which there seemed to be much shoal water# There is a sandy hill u%on the south&west ca%e, and a roc lies close to itD and at three or !our miles o!! the soundings were eBceedingly irregular, jum%ing !rom K to M, and - to 11 !athoms, on a roc y bottom# This irregularity, and the meeting o! two tides, one !rom the north and another !rom the east, caused great ri%%lings in the waterD and with the light winds, retarded our %rogress round the ca%e# The eBtreme south&west %oint lies in latitude 1- deg# 1M' south, and !rom siB sets o! lunar distances with stars east and west, the longitude would be 12+ deg# 1K' eastD but according to the sur"ey, 12+ deg# 2M' is the better situation# An am%litude at sunset ga"e the "ariation 1 deg# I', with the shi%'s head 5# /#, or corrected to the meridian, 2 deg# 2+' east# Ge anchored at dus in 12 !athoms, muddy bottom, !i"e or siB miles to the south o! the ca%e# .<8)T9 48A5T# G)88T/ /$'A<*T#3 5AT;)*A$ E :A<;A)$ 1E,2 8n the Kth and Eth, the winds hung between 5# /# and <# <# /#D and the

direction o! the south side o! Groote /ylandt being nearly east, it too us those two days and %art o! a third, to ma e the eBamination, though the eBtent be little more than twel"e leagues# The land here is more sandy than on the west side, and the trees u%on the hills are more thinly scattered and %resent a less agreeable !oliage# <o islands are laid down near the south side in the *utch chartD but 6 counted eight scattered along it, o! which the easternmost and largest is more than two miles longD and besides these, there are se"eral roc s# The %ositions o! these roc s and islets, with our courses and soundings amongst them, will be best seen in the chart# 5;<*A$ I :A<;A)$ 1E,2 6n the a!ternoon o! the Ith, we %assed round the south&east roc y %oint o! Groote /ylandt, which lies in 1- deg# 1K' south, and 12K deg# 21L2' east# The shore then trended northward, to a small cluster o! roc s and islets three miles distantD and two miles !urther was another islet, behind which we anchored in 12 !athoms, coarse sand, in a sandy bight o! the great islandD but the bight being eB%osed to south&east winds, and containing much !oul ground, the anchorage was !ar !rom being good# M8<*A$ 1, :A<;A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning, we steered out on the north side o! the islet, between it and a low %oint two miles o!!, with a boat aheadD our soundings being I, +, -, 21L2, M, E, and soon a!terward 22 !athoms# The low %oint, which has se"eral roc s near it, lies se"en or eight miles northward !rom the south&east eBtremity o! Groote /ylandtD !rom thence the shore trends westward about !our leagues, and !orms a large bight, mostly bounded by a sandy beachD but in the middle o! it is a %oint with many roc s# 8n the west side o! the bight, two or three miles bac , are the same woody hills which seem to occu%y all the middle o! the islandD and on this side they terminate to the north&east in a blu!!# The de%th o! water at noon was 1I !athoms, and our situation and %rinci%al bearings were as under# 'atitude, obser"ed to the north and south, 1- deg# M' 21C 'ongitude by time ee%er and sur"ey, 12K 2 Groote /ylandt, low eastern %oint, dist# - miles, 5# 1 G# Groote /ylandt, woody hills, the north&east blu!!, <# +- G# Groote /ylandt, !urthest "isible eBtreme, <# + G# Ge were then steering across the bight be!ore a south&east windD but the de%th o! water becoming less, and the wind more dead on the shore, we hauled u% <# by /# !or the !urthest land in sight# At three o'cloc , a small o%ening was seen under the north&east blu!!, but our distance o! three leagues was too great to distinguish it accurately# Towards e"ening, when three miles !rom the shore, the sounding jum%ed !rom I to !athoms, and we tac ed to the south&eastD and the night %romising to be !ine, anchored at dus in 1I !athoms, mud and sand, with the north&east %oint o! Groote /ylandt bearing <# 22 deg# G#, about se"en miles >Atlas, Plate HV#?D !urther out lay two small islands, and a hill u%on the outermost was set at <# 1, deg# G# The latitude o! this anchorage was ascertained, !rom altitudes o! two stars and the moon, to be 12 deg# M2 1L2' southD and an am%litude with the shi%'s head <# /# by <#, ga"e "ariation 2 deg# MK', or - deg# -' east, corrected to the meridian# T;/5*A$ 11 :A<;A)$ 1E,2

Ge had the wind at <# G# in the morning, and steered close to it on the larbord tac , until noonD when the hill on the outer north&east island, bore 5# EI1L2 deg# G#, nine or ten miles# The latitude o! the hill is 12 deg# 2E1L-', and !rom siB sets o! distances o! stars east and west o! the moon, its longitude would be 12+ deg# 2+'D but !rom the sur"ey and more numerous obser"ations, it is 12K deg# ,1L2' east#7 A!ter a calm the sea breeJe came in, and our course was directed !or the north&east %oint o! Groote /ylandtD at sunset we a%%roached a roc y islet three or !our miles !rom the %oint, and anchored under it in +1L2 !athoms, sandy ground, with the %oint bearing 5# M deg# /#, and the !urthest "isible %art, "ery low and sandy, 5# +2 deg# G# !i"e or siB miles# 8n the other side, the north&east islands eBtended !rom <# 22 deg# /# to 2I deg# G#, with many small roc s scattered along themD the nearest o! which, a s%lit roc , was distant a short mile# .7 The a%%arent error o! 2-1L2' in the !irst longitude, is greater than should eBist in the mean result o! siB sets o! distances# There is an inter"al o! three days in the obser"ations o! the moon at Greenwich with which these distances were com%aredD and it seems %robable that a great %art o! the error might arise !rom that cause#3 G/*</5*A$ 12 :A<;A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning we steered close to a <# <# G# wind, !or the low sandy %oint, where the shore was !ound to trend southwardD and !i"e or siB miles to the west there was other land, moderately high and in some %laces cli!!y, which too nearly a %arallel directionD and the bight between them ran so !ar u% towards the north&east blu!! o! the woody hills, that a junction with the small o%ening seen on the outside a%%eared to be %robable# A shel"ing s%it eBtended out !rom the low %oint, and on o%ening the bight our soundings decreased !rom + to 21L2 !athoms, which made it necessary to tac D and the wind being ad"erse to %assing within the north&east islands, i! indeed there be water enough !or a shi%, which seemed doubt!ul, we steered out by the way we had come in# 9a"ing little wind, the isles were not %assed till late in the e"ening, and !rom the same cause not much %rogress was made to the westward neBt day .T9;)5*A$ 12 :A<;A)$ 1E,23D but the land was better distinguished than be!ore, and many straggling roc s and two islets were seen to lie o!! the north end o! Groote /ylandt# 6n the morning o! the 1-th .F)6*A$ 1- :A<;A)$ 1E,23 we weathered all these, and on the wind dying away, anchored in 111L2 !athoms, blue mudD the outer A<orth&%oint 6sletA, which lies in 12 deg# 2K' south and 12+ deg# -M' east, then bore /# 2 deg# 5# !i"e miles, and the !urthest eBtreme o! a higher cli!!y island, 5# 2E deg# G# three miles# 6 went in a boat to this last island with the botanical gentlemen, intending to ta e bearings !rom the u%%ermost cli!!sD but the many dee% chasms by which the u%%er %arts are intersected, made it im%ossible to reach the to% in the short time we had to s%are, and a !ew bearings !rom the eastern low %oint were all that could be obtained# This was called A4hasm 6slandAD it lies one mile and a hal! !rom a low %oint o! Groote /ylandt, where the shore trends southward and seemed to !orm a bay, into which 6 %ro%osed to conduct the shi%# Ge !ound u%on 4hasm 6sland a !ruit which %ro"ed to be a new s%ecies o! AeugeniaA, o! the siJe o! an a%%le, whose acidity o! taste was agreeableD there were also many large bushes co"ered with nutmegs, similar to those seen at 4a%e VanderlinD and in some o! the chasms the ground was co"ered

with this !ruit, without our being able, !or some time, to now whence it came# 5e"eral trees shot u% in these chasms, thirty or !orty !eet high, and on considering them attenti"ely, these were !ound to be the trees whence the nutmegs had !allenD thus what was a s%reading bush abo"e, became, !rom the necessity o! air and light, a tall, slender tree, and showed the admirable %ower in nature to accommodate itsel! to local circumstances# The !ruit was small, and not o! an agreeable !la"ourD nor is it %robable that it can at all come in com%etition with the nutmeg o! the Molucca 6slands( it is the AMyristica insi%idaA o! Brown's AProdrom# <o"# 9oll#A %# -,,# 6n the stee% sides o! the chasms were dee% holes or ca"erns, undermining the cli!!sD u%on the walls o! which 6 !ound rude drawings, made with charcoal and something li e red %aint u%on the white ground o! the roc # These drawings re%resented %or%oises, turtle, angaroos, and a human handD and Mr# Gestall, who went a!terwards to see them, !ound the re%resentation o! a angaroo, with a !ile o! thirty&two %ersons !ollowing a!ter it# The third %erson o! the band was twice the height o! the others, and held in his hand something resembling the AwhaddieA, or wooden sword o! the nati"es o! Port :ac sonD and was %robably intended to re%resent a chie!# They could not, as with us, indicate su%eriority by clothing or ornament, since they wear none o! any indD and there!ore, with the addition o! a wea%on, similar to the ancients, they seem to ha"e made su%eriority o! %erson the %rinci%al emblem o! su%erior %ower, o! which, indeed, %ower is usually a conse@uence in the "ery early stages o! society# A sea breeJe had s%rung u% !rom the eastward, and the shi% was under way when we returned on board at three in the a!ternoon# At !i"e we hauled round 4hasm 6sland with 12 !athoms water, which diminished gradually as we %roceeded u% the bay, to -1L2, where the anchor was dro%%ed on a muddy bottomD the south&west end o! 4hasm 6sland then bore <# 1+ deg# /#, three or !our miles, and the cli!!y end o! a smaller isle on the west side o! the entrance, <# 2I deg# G# two miles and a hal!D and eBce%t between these two bearings, we were sheltered !rom all winds# The situation o! this bay in Groote /ylandt, led me to gi"e it the name o! A<orth&west BayA# 6t is !ormed on the east and south by that islandD and on the west by a se%arate %iece o! land, !i"e or siB miles long, which, in honour o! the noble %ossessor o! Burley Par , in the county o! )utland, 6 named AGinchilsea 6slandAD and a small isle o! greater ele"ation, lying a short mile to the east o! the shi%, was called AFinch's 6slandA# 5AT;)*A$ 1M :A<;A)$ 1E,2 /arly neBt morning the botanists landed on Groote /ylandt, and 6 went to Finch's 6sland with the second lieutenant, to ta e bearings and astronomical obser"ations# From the western head, 6 saw that the bay eBtended siB or eight miles abo"e the shi%, to the southward, and that the southern outlet, beyond Ginchilsea 6sland, was about one mile wideD but the whole seemed to be too shallow !or any thing larger than boats# Amongst the bearings ta en !rom this station, those most essential to the sur"ey were, Groote /ylandt, the woody north&west blu!!, 5# M+ deg# -+' G# A distant wedge&sha%ed roc , the <# /# blu!!, <# MI MM G# 4hasm 6#, the stee% west end, <# 2 M1 /#

And !rom another station, hal! a mile to the /# 5# /#, 6 set Groote /ylandt, the central hill, at 5# 1- deg# 2K' /# This bearing and that o! the north&west blu!!, !ormed connecting lin s in the chain o! longitude round the island# 5;<*A$ 1+ :A<;A)$ 1E,2 <eBt day the botanists landed u%on Ginchilsea 6sland, and !urther astronomical obser"ations were ta en u%on that o! FinchD where also a %art o! the shi%'s com%any went to di"ert themsel"es, and to wash their linenD and in the e"ening, we %re%ared to @uit <orth&west Bay# A close&grained sand stone, nearly resembling that o! Pellew's Grou%, seems to !orm the basis o! Groote and the neighbouring islandsD we !ound also coral, ironstone, and @uartJ# 6n many %laces, @uartJ in almost a crystallised state was s%rin led in grains through the sand stone, and in others, the sand stone itsel! was %artly "itri!ied# Ghere"er we landed, the sur!ace was so entirely com%osed o! stone and sand, that the idea o! any ind o! culti"ation could in no wise be assimilated with itD the hills at a little distance !rom the water side were, howe"er, well co"ered with wood, and it is not im%robable, that there may be "allies in the central %arts o! Groote /ylandt %ossessing some degree o! !ertility# The central hill, which is siB or eight hundred !eet in ele"ation, a%%eared to be not so much as three leagues !rom the head o! <orth&west Bay, and 6 was desirous to ha"e made an eBcursion to the to%, to see the interior o! the islandD but the state o! the shi% being such as to %ress us !orward with all %racticable haste, it was not attem%tedD nor did 6 sto% to eBamine %articularly the head o! the bay, since it a%%eared to be shallow, and o! little interest to na"igation# The wood on Groote /ylandt was mostly com%osed o! di!!erent s%ecies o! Aeucaly%tusAD the trees were small, and might do !or !ire wood and "ery common %ur%oses, but did not seem calculated !or any su%erior use# 4hasm 6sland was the sole %lace where the nutmeg was !ound, though in general, the gleanings o! the botanists were tolerably !ortunate# <one o! the nati"e inhabitants were seen, nor any angaroos or other @uadru%edsD and birds seemed to be scarce# 5mall @uantities o! water, de%osited in holes o! the roc s by the late rains, were use!ul to the seamen !or washing their clothesD but we did not !ind any !rom which a shi% could be su%%lied, nor were there any beaches con"enient !or hauling the seine# The AlatitudeA o! Finch's 6sland, !rom a meridian obser"ation to the north and south, is 1- deg# -2' 21C 5# A'ongitudeA !rom siB sets o! distances o! the sun east o! the moon, ta en by mysel!, 12+ deg# 2E' -KC, and !rom twel"e sets by lieutenant Flinders >see Table V# o! A%%endiB <o# 6?, 12+ deg# 22' 2ECD but there being no obser"ations o! the moon at Greenwich within two or three days, the longitude !rom sur"ey and the %osition o! 4aledon Bay a!terwards !iBed, is %re!erred, and is 12+ deg# 2+' M2C /# A*i%A o! the south end o! the needle, 2I deg# 22'# AVariationA o! the theodolite, 2 deg# +' east# The "ariations o! the sur"eying com%ass, !rom am%litudes ta en near di!!erent %arts o! Groote /ylandt during the circumna"igation, were these(&&

<ear the main, o%%# the 5#G# Pt#, head /# by 5#, , deg# -2', cor# 2 deg# --' /# <ear the south&west %oint, 5# /#, 1 I , cor# 2 2+ 8!! the east side, <# /# by <#, 2 MK , cor# - <ear the north&east isles#, <# G# by G#, 2 22 , cor# 1 ME 8!! the north end, 5# G# by G#, M M1 , cor# - 1Ghether the small "ariation near the north&east isles arose !rom any %eculiar attraction, or !rom some o"ersight in ta ing the am%litude, 6 cannot determineD i! !rom the latter, it would a%%ear that the "ariation is a degree and a hal! less on the south&west, than on the east and north sides o! Groote /ylandt# 5carcely any run o! AtideA was %erce%tible in <orth&west Bay, nor did the rise a%%ear to eBceed !our or !i"e !eet at any %art o! the island, though it runs with some strength o!! the %rojecting %oints# The irregularity in di!!erent %laces was such, that the time o! high water could not be ascertainedD but 6 thin there is only one !ull tide in the day, and that the !lood comes !rom the northward# M8<*A$ 1K :A<;A)$ 1E,2 /arly on the 1Kth we wor ed out o! the bay, and stretched o!! to sea with a G# <# G# windD at noon the latitude was 12 deg# 2K' 1,C, and the !urthest eBtreme o! 4hasm 6sland bore 5# 2+ deg# G# A!ter a calm in the a!ternoon, the sea breeJe came in, and we steered south&westward till nine o'cloc D when a bower anchor was let go in 1- !athoms, two or three miles !rom the north end o! Ginchilsea 6sland# 6n the morning .T;/5*A$ 1E :A<;A)$ 1E,23 we lay u% south&west, on the starbord tac , and weathered the island, lea"ing a roc one mile and a hal! on the other side# 6 wished, by a good bearing o! 4onneBion 6sland, to join the sur"ey com%letely round Groote /ylandtD and at nine o'cloc it was set at 5# 2K1L2 deg# to -K deg# G#, two leagues# The wind then came ahead, and we tac ed towards two small isles, where the anchor was dro%%ed at ten, one mile and a hal! !rom their south side, in 1+ !athoms, sand and shells# 8ur latitude here was 12 deg# -2' -2C south, and the east side o! 4onneBion 6sland bore 5# I1L2 deg# G# siB or se"en milesD the di!!erence o! longitude !rom our situation on the Mth at three %#m#, was hence ascertained to be it 1' MMC east, not di!!ering MC !rom what was gi"en by <o# M-2, but <o# M2, showed +1L2' too muchD the di!!erences o! longitude by the !ormer time ee%er alone ha"e there!ore been used round Groote /ylandt# 6 went immediately, with the botanical gentlemen, to the northern and largest o! the two sandy islesD and a!ter obser"ing the latitude 12 deg# -2' 1KC on the south&west %oint, ascended the highest hilloc , which, !rom the clum% o! trees u%on it, was called APandanus 9illA# 5ome o! the trees being cut down, 6 had a tolerably eBtensi"e "iew o! %oints and islands be!ore %assedD and saw more to the north&westward, behind Gedge )oc , all o! which the *utch chart re%resents as %arts o! the main land# 8ne o! these 6 ha"e called ABurney's 6slandA, in com%liment to ca%tain :ames Burney o! the na"y, and another A<icol's 6slandA, a!ter 9is Majesty's boo seller, the %ublisher o! this wor # Beyond these was a more eBtensi"e land, which also %ro"ed to be an islandD and its !orm ha"ing some resemblance to the whaddie or woodah, or wooden sword used by the nati"es o! Port :ac son, it was named A6sle GoodahA# A low sandy island, lying !our or !i"e miles <# by# /# !rom my station, seems to be the northernmost o! the three isles laid down between Groote /ylandt and the

mainD but it is %laced, as are also the neighbouring lands, hal! a degree too !ar north( 4onneBion 6sland, ta ing it to be the southernmost o! the three, is well !iBed in latitude# Amongst the many bearings ta en at the to% o! Pandanus 9ill, those which !ollow were the most im%ortant to the sur"ey# <orth&%oint 6slet, outer eBtreme <# K2 deg# 1M' /# 4hasm 6sland, <# K- deg# 1M' to <# KE 2M /# Groote /ylandt, central hill, 5# -- 2, /# Groote /ylandt, north&west eBtreme, 5# I , /# The shi% distant 12L- miles, 5# K -M /# 4onneBion 6sland, 5# E , to 5# 22 2, G# Bic erton's 6sland, 5# -2 -, to <# KM -M G# 6sle Goodah, <# +, 2, to <# 2E 1M G# Gedge )oc , stee% north&east end, <# 2, -M G# <icol's 6#, stee% east end, <# 2+ M G# There was "ery little wood u%on the two sandy isles, nor did they !urnish any thing new to the botanistsD but they were %artly co"ered with long grass amongst which harboured se"eral bustards, and 6 called them ABustard 6slesA# The basis o! the largest is nearly the same miBture o! sand&stone and @uartJ, as at <orth&west BayD bro en coral and sand !ormed the beachesD and some !resh turtle trac s being there %ercei"ed, and the a%%earance o! the weather being un!a"ourable, it induced me to remain at anchor all nightD but only one turtle was %rocured# G/*</5*A$ 1I :A<;A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning we had a north&east wind, and a!ter %assing round a shoal which runs one or two miles !rom the south&west end o! the Bustard 6sles, hauled u% to weather Bic erton's 6slandD but owing to a tide setting to leeward it was not accom%lished be!ore two in the a!ternoon# 5oon a!ter three we got to anchor one mile !rom the south side o! Burney's 6sland, in -1L2 !athoms, mud and shellsD and 6 went on shore with the botanists# This island is moderately high, roc y, and barren, yet thic ly co"ered with the Aeucaly%tusA and AcasuarinaA# From the highest roc on the south&east side, 6 too bearings o! the objects in sightD and amongst them set Gedge )oc , the north eBtreme, at <# E2 deg# M,' /# 4hasm 6sland, north eBtreme, 5# KI MM /# Pandanus 9ill, the last station, 5# M2 M /# 6 a!terwards got through the wood, intending to set the objects lying to the north and westwardD but no clear %lace could be !ound !or %lacing the theodolite# A small bay was obser"ed on the north&west side o! the island, which might be con"enient !or boatsD and !rom the stee% decli"ity o! the land round it, there seemed a %robability that !resh water might be %rocured at this season# The stone o! this island is the same as that o! the Bustard 6slesD and the 6ndians had "isited both# A set o! aJimuths, obser"ed at the same station whence the bearings were ta en, ga"e "ariation 2 deg# M,' eastD but on board the shi%, with the head <# /# by /#, Mr# Flinders obser"ed , deg# 22' east, with three com%asses, which would

be 2 deg# ,' correctedD whence it should seem, that the stone o! the island had some attraction on the south end o! the needle# .<8)T9 48A5T# B';/&M;* BA$#3 T9;)5*A$ 2, :A<;A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning, we steered 5# G# to ta e u% the sur"ey o! the main coast at 4a%e Barrow, between which and 6sle Goodah was an o%ening where no land was "isibleD but meeting with shoal water, and the wind being light, a stream anchor was dro%%ed until the boat had time to sound# 8n her return, we steered !or the north side o! the o%ening, with a de%th which increased !rom - !athoms to 1K o!! the south end o! Goodah# A higher island, two or three miles long, then showed itsel! to the <# <# G#D and on the water shoaling to 21L2 !athoms, the anchor was dro%%ed at !our in the a!ternoon, one mile and a hal! !rom its south side, on a bottom o! blue mud# The main land was in sight to the westward, !orming a large bay with 6sle Goodah, and Bic erton's 6sland co"ered the entrance, so that the shi% was in com%lete shelter# 8n landing with the botanical gentlemen, 6 ascended a hummoc at the east end o! the island, where alone the "iew was not im%eded by wood# Many o! my !ormer !iBed %oints were "isible !rom thence, and the main land was traced round to the northward, to a hill named AMount GrindallA, near which was another round hill u%on an islandD and behind them the main eBtended eastward, nearly as !ar as o"er the middle o! 6sle Goodah# Amongst the numerous bearings ta en !rom this eastern hummoc , the !ollowing siB were most essential to the sur"ey# 4hasm 6sland, the centre, 5# +K deg# -+' /# Gedge )oc , stee% north&east end, 5# MI -K /# 4a%e Barrow, the eastern eBtreme, 5# + M, G# Mount Grindall, <# 12 1+ G# )ound&hill 6sland, the to%, <# E M G# /Btreme o! the main, o"er Goodah, <# MM 2, /# F)6*A$ 21 :A<;A)$ 1E,2 A %arty o! men was sent to cut wood on the !ollowing morning, and another to haul the seineD the botanists also landed, and 6 went to obser"e the latitude and ta e bearings !rom the west end o! the islandD e"ery %erson was armed, !or mar s o! !eet had been %ercei"ed, so newly im%rinted on the sand, that we eB%ected to meet with 6ndians# A!ter accom%lishing my objects, 6 wal ed with a small %arty round the north&west end o! the islandD and then returned o"er the high land, through a most !atiguing brush wood, towards the wooders and the boat# 8n clearing the wood, !our or !i"e 6ndians were seen on a hill, hal! a mile to the le!t, and some o! the wooding %arty ad"ancing towards them# The sight o! us seemed to gi"e the nati"es an a%%rehension o! being surrounded, !or they immediately ranD but our %roceeding @uietly down to the boat, which 6 did in the ho%e that our %eo%le might bring on an inter"iew, a%%eared to satis!y them# The scienti!ic gentlemen accom%anied me on board to dinnerD and 6 learned !rom Mr# Gestall, that whilst he was ta ing a s etch at the east end o! the island, a canoe, with siB men in it, came o"er !rom Goodah# 9e too little notice o! them until, !inding they saw him and landed not !ar o!!, he thought it %rudent to retreat with his ser"ant to the wooding %arty# The nati"es !ollowed %retty smartly a!ter himD and when they a%%eared on

the brow o! the hill, Mr# Ghitewood, the master's mate, and some o! his wooders went to meet them in a !riendly manner# This was at the time that the a%%earance o! my %arty caused them to runD but when we le!t the shore they had sto%%ed, and our %eo%le were wal ing gently u% the hill# The nati"es had s%ears, but !rom the smallness o! their number, and our men being armed, 6 did not a%%rehend any dangerD we had, howe"er, scarcely reached the shi%, when the re%ort o! mus ets was heardD and the %eo%le were ma ing signals and carrying some one down to the boat, as i! wounded or illed# 6 immediately des%atched two armed boats to their assistance, under the direction o! the masterD with orders, i! he met with the nati"es, to be !riendly and gi"e them %resents, and by no means to %ursue them into the wood# 6 sus%ected, indeed, that our %eo%le must ha"e been the aggressorsD but told the master, i! the 6ndians had made a wanton attac , to bring o!! their canoe by way o! %unishmentD intending mysel! to ta e such ste%s on the !ollowing day, as might be !ound eB%edient# At !i"e o'cloc Mr# Ghitewood was brought on board, with !our s%ear wounds in his body# 6t a%%eared that the nati"es, in waiting to recei"e our men, e%t their s%ears ready, as ours had their mus ets# Mr# Ghitewood, who was !oremost, %ut out his hand to recei"e a s%ear which he su%%osed was o!!eredD but the 6ndian, thin ing %erha%s that an attem%t was made to ta e his arms, ran the s%ear into the breast o! his su%%osed enemy# The o!!icer sna%%ed his !ireloc , but it missed, and he retreated to his menD and the 6ndians, encouraged by this, threw se"eral s%ears a!ter him, three o! which too e!!ect# 8ur %eo%le attem%ted to !ire, and a!ter some time two mus ets went o!!, and the 6ndians !ledD but not without ta ing away a hat which had been dro%%ed# Thomas Morgan, a marine, ha"ing been some time eB%osed bare&headed to the sun, was struc with a Acou%&de&soleilAD he was brought on board with Mr# Ghitewood, and died in a state o! !renJy, the same night# 5o soon as the master had learned what had ha%%ened, he went round in the whale boat to the east end o! the island, to secure the canoeD and !orgetting the orders 6 had gi"en him, sent Mr# 'acy with the wooders o"erland, to interce%t the nati"es on that side# Their searches were !or some time !ruitlessD but in the dus o! the e"ening three 6ndians were seen by the wooders, and be!ore they could be interce%ted had %ushed o!! in the canoe# A shar% !ire was commenced a!ter themD and be!ore they got out o! reach, one !ell and the others lea%ed out and di"ed away# A seaman who ga"e himsel! the credit o! ha"ing shot the nati"e, swam o!! to the canoe, and !ound him lying dead at the bottom, with a straw hat on his head which he recognised to be his own# Ghilst dis%laying this in trium%h, he u%set the tic lish "essel, and the body sun D but the canoe was towed to the shore, and the master returned with it at nine o'cloc # 6 was much concerned at what had ha%%ened, and greatly dis%leased with the master !or ha"ing acted so contrary to my ordersD but the mischie! being un!ortunately done, a boat was sent in the morning .5AT;)*A$ 22 :A<;A)$ 1E,23 to search !or the dead body, the %ainter being desirous o! it to ma e a drawing, and the naturalist and surgeon !or anatomical %ur%oses# The cor%se was !ound lying at the water's edge, not lengthwise, as a body washed u%, but with the head on shore and the !eet touching the sur!# The arms were crossed under the head, with the !ace downward, in the %osture o! a man who was just able to crawl out o! the water and dieD and 6 "ery much a%%rehend this to ha"e been one o! the two nati"es who had lea%ed out o! the canoe, and were thought to ha"e esca%ed# 9e was o! the middle siJe, rather slender, had a %rominent chest, small legs, and

similar !eatures to the inhabitants o! other %arts o! this countryD and he a%%eared to ha"e been circumcisedO A mus et ball had %assed through the shoulder blade, !rom behindD and %enetrating u%wards, had lodged in the nec # The canoe was o! bar , but not o! one %iece, as at Port :ac sonD it consisted o! two %ieces, sewed together lengthwise, with the seam on one sideD the two ends were also sewed u%, and made tight with gum# Along each gunwale was lashed a small %oleD and these were s%anned together in !i"e %laces, with cree%ing "ine, to %reser"e the sha%e, and to strengthen the canoe# 6ts length was thirteen and a hal!, and the breadth two and a hal! !eetD and it seemed ca%able o! carrying siB %eo%le, being larger than those generally used at Port :ac son# 6t does not accord with the usually timid character o! the nati"es o! Terra Australis, to su%%ose the 6ndians came o"er !rom 6sle Goodah !or the %ur%ose o! ma ing an attac D yet the circumstance o! their being without women or children&&their !ollowing so bris ly a!ter Mr# Gestall&&and ad"ancing armed to the wooders, all im%ly that they rather sought than a"oided a @uarrel# 6 can account !or this unusual conduct only by su%%osing, that they might ha"e had di!!erences with, and entertained no res%ect!ul o%inion o! the Asiatic "isitors, o! whom we had !ound so many traces, some almost in sight o! this %lace# The body o! Thomas Morgan who died so un!ortunately, was this day committed to the dee% with the usual ceremonyD and the island was named a!ter him, AMorgan's 6slandA# The basis stone is %artly argillaceous, and in %art sand stone, with a miBture in some %laces o! iron ore, but more !re@uently o! @uartJ# A little soil is !ormed u%on the slo%es o! the hills and in the "alliesD and there, more es%ecially at the east end o! the island, it is co"ered with small trees and coarse grass, which the late rains had caused to loo !resh and greenD there were also some tem%orary drains o! !resh water# The AlatitudeA o! the hummoc at the east end o! Morgan's 6sland, is 12 deg# 2K1L2', and AlongitudeA !rom the sur"ey, 12+ deg# I1L2'# AJimuths obser"ed at the anchorage, with three com%asses and the shi%'s head in the magnetic meridian, ga"e 2 deg# 22' east A"ariationA, which corres%onded "ery well with the bearings# The AtidesA here are "ery inconsiderable, and there a%%eared to be only one !lood and one ebb in the dayD high water too %lace about midnight, when the moon was a little %ast the lower meridianD but whether it will always be so !ar behind the moon, may admit o! a doubt# A "iew o! the main land to the westward, !rom 4a%e Barrow to Mount Grindall, had been obtained !rom the higher %arts o! Morgan's 6slandD but a %robability still remaining that some ri"er might !all into the bay, 6 %ro%osed to coast round it with the shi%# 8n a breeJe s%ringing u% at /# 5# /, early in the a!ternoon, we steered round the west end o! the island, and hauled to the northwardD but meeting almost immediately with shoal water, the course was altered !or the south&west, and a!terwards !or the south %art o! the bayD and !inding no where more than 2 !athoms, we tac ed to the <# /# at dus , and came to an anchor# The bottom here, and in most other %arts o! the bay, is a blue mud o! so !ine a @uality, that 6 judge it might be use!ul in the manu!actory o! earthern wareD and 6 thence named this, ABlue&mud BayA# 6t was e"ident !rom the uni!orm shallowness o! the water, that Blue&mud Bay did not recei"e any stream o! conse@uence, either in its south or

western %artD and to the north, it seemed not to be accessible !rom this side# The main land rises "ery gradually !rom the water side into the countryD and the wood u%on it made a greater show o! !ertility than on any borders o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria we had be!ore seen# 5;<*A$ 22 :A<;A)$ 1E,2 Ge got under way again at daylightD but the wind coming to blow strong !rom the eastward, with rain, thunder, and lightning, were not able to %ass round the south end o! 6sle Goodah and get out o! the bay, until the morning o! the 2Mth .T;/5*A$ 2M :A<;A)$ 1E,23# 8ur soundings in wor ing out diminished to 21L2 !athoms, near the o%ening between Bic erton's 6sland and 4a%e BarrowD and it is %robable that no shi% %assage eBists there, although 6 had %re"iously !ound as much as K !athoms in the southern %art o! the o%ening# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 A!ter clearing Blue&mud Bay, we wor ed to the north&eastwardD and at eight in the e"ening, anchored under <icol's 6sland in M1L2 !athoms, muddy bottom, one mile !rom the shore, and two and a hal! !rom the low eastern %oint o! 6sle Goodah( two large roc s and much shoal water lie between the islands, and %re"ented me !rom see ing shelter there# 6n the morning .G/*</5*A$ 2+ :A<;A)$ 1E,23 we stretched <# <# /#, !or the %rojecting %art o! the main land be!ore set at <# MM deg# 2,' /# !rom the eastern hummoc o! Morgan's 6slandD and to which 6 ha"e gi"en the name o! 4AP/ 596/'*, in com%liment to ca%tain G# 5hield, a commissioner o! the na"y# There is a small bay on its south&west side, and we anchored there in !athoms, blue mud, with the outer %oints o! the bay bearing 5# -1 deg# /# and <# 21 deg# G#, each distant one mile# 8n landing with the botanists, 6 !ound the beach con"enient !or hauling the seine, and ordered one to be sent !rom the shi%, which had tolerable success# The ca%e is low land, mostly co"ered with woodD and a sandy hilloc , %ercei"ed !rom the mast head about one mile behind the beach, being the sole %lace whence a "iew was li ely to be obtained, 6 went there with a theodolite# <o %art o! the main coast to the eastward could be seen !rom thence beyond a low %rojection distant se"en or eight miles, which 6 named APoint ArrowsmithAD to the west my "iew was obstructed by trees, but some %oints be!ore set were "isible, and more to the southwardD and the !ollowing, amongst many use!ul bearings, were ta en# 4hasm 6#, centre o! the highest %art, 5# 22 deg# 1M' /# Gedge )oc , centre, 5# M MM G# <icol's 6#, south&east %oint >o"er the south eBtreme o! 4# 5hield, dist# 11L2 miles?, 5# 2+ 2, G# )ound&hill 6sland, the to%, 5# EI 2M G# Point Arrowsmith, <# +2 2, /# The sand hill whence these bearings were ta en, stands close to the water on the east side o! 4a%e 5hieldD and directly o!! it, at a mile and a hal! distance, lies a small island( u%on the shore was !ound a carling o! a shi%s dec , o! tea wood, in a decayed state# 8n the land side o! the hill was a small la e o! !resh water, !re@uented by duc s, teal, and smaller a@uatic birds, se"eral o! which were shot# 4a%e 5hield lies in latitude 12 deg# 1I2L-' south, longitude by the sur"ey 12+ deg#

22' eastD it %rojects out siB miles !rom the body o! the land, and a%%ears, when seen !rom the south, to be an island# Two cassowaries were seen u%on it, and many trac s o! men, dogs, and angaroos# The wood is small, and the soil sandyD but the botanists made an am%le collection o! %lants, some !ew o! which made an addition to their !ormer disco"eries# T9;)5*A$ 2K :A<;A)$ 1E,2 <eBt morning we steered westward, with a !air wind, to eB%lore the main coast u% to Mount Grindall, and see the northern %art o! Blue&mud Bay# At three leagues !rom 4a%e 5hield, we %assed a %rojecting %oint to which 6 ga"e the name o! APoint BlaneA, in com%liment to *r# >now 5ir Gilbert? Blane, o! the na"al medical board# Fi"e miles !rom it to the G# 5# G#, lies )ound&hill 6sland, and a!ter %assing between them with - !athoms water, 6 sent the boat to sound between the island and Mount Grindall, %ur%osing to anchor thereD but the de%th was too little !or the shi%# Ge then wor ed u% to a large bight on the west side o! Point BlaneD and the water being shallow towards the head, anchored in 2 !athoms, muddy ground, with the eBtremity o! the %oint bearing 5# -1 deg# /# two and a hal! miles# An o!!icer was sent on shore to search !or !resh water and eBamine the beach with a "iew to hauling the seine, but had no successD the naturalist accom%anied him, to botanise, and not coming down to the boat at dus , the o!!icer le!t a man with a !ire on the beach, to wait his arri"al# At ten o'cloc a gun was !ired, and the boat sent bac D but nothing had been heard o! the naturalist, or the seaman who carried his s%ecimen boBes, and some a%%rehensions began to be entertained# 5oon a!ter daylight .F)6*A$ 2E :A<;A)$ 1E,23 we had the satis!action to see Mr# Brown on the shore# 6t a%%eared that !rom one o! those mista es which so !re@uently occur in thic woods and dull weather, when without a com%ass, the east had been mista en !or westD and Mr# Brown reached the water side at dus , but on the wrong side o! the %oint# 9e thought it more %rudent to remain there all night, than to re&enter the wood in the dar D and the re%ort o! the gun ha"ing gi"en him the true direction, he had no di!!iculty in the morning# <o nati"es were seenD but the howling o! dogs was heard not !ar o!!# Ghilst the botanists continued to !ollow their %ursuits u%on Point Blane, 6 went o"er in the whale&boat to Mount Grindall, with the landsca%e %ainterD !rom whence, a!ter cutting down some small trees at the to%, my "iew eBtended o"er all the neighbouring islands, %oints, and bays# Blue&mud Bay was seen to reach !urther north than Mount Grindall, ma ing it to be u%on a long %oint, which 6 also named APoint GrindallA, !rom res%ect to the %resent "ice&admiral o! that nameD !urther west, in the bay, was a stream running !i"e or siB miles into the land, terminating in a swam%, and with shoal ban s and a low island at the entranceD all the northern %art o! the bay, indeed, seemed to be shallow, and to ha"e no shi% %assage into it on the north side o! 6sle Goodah# The large bight between Points Grindall and Blane eBtended two leagues abo"e the shi%, but it did not a%%ear to recei"e any stream o! waterD a still larger bight, between Point Blane and 4a%e 5hield was also "isible, though not so distinct as to s%ea o! it %articularly( the eBtremity o! the ca%e bore 5# K+ deg# 1M' /# An obser"ation to the north and south, ta en on the outermost roc s, %laces Mount Grindall in 12 deg# 1M1L2' southD and the longitude !rom sur"ey is 12+ deg# + 1L2' east# Mr# Gestall's s etch in the Atlas, ta en !rom the shi% at anchor under Point Blane, will show the a%%earance o! this mount and o! the neighbouring land# >Atlas, Plate HV666# View 12#?

The to% o! Mount Grindall consists o! the same ind o! sand stone, with %articles o! @uartJ in it, as seen at Groote /ylandtD but the roc s on the shore are granite, and one bloc made a brilliant a%%earance !rom the @uantity o! mica it contained# There is "ery little soil on the surrounding land, the sur!ace being either sandy or stonyD it was howe"er mostly co"ered with grass and wood, and amongst the trees was a cluster o! the new s%ecies o! AeugeniaA, !rom which the boat's crew !illed their hand erchie!s with !ruit, which they called a%%les# Two nati"es were distinguished u%on )ound&hill 6slandD but none at Point Grindall, nor any thing to show that they had been there recently( the !oot&mar s o! dogs and angaroos were both recent and numerous# 5trong s@ualls !rom the eastward, with rain, much im%eded our return to the shi% in the e"eningD and !rom a continuance o! the same un!a"ourable weather, Point Blane could not be re%assed until the a!ternoon o! the 2,th .5;<*A$ 2, :A<;A)$ 1E,23# The wind was then 5# /#, and we wor ed to windward all night, between the main coast and 6sle GoodahD and not being able to weather 4a%e 5hield on the !ollowing day .M8<*A$ 21 :A<;A)$ 1E,23, we ran to our !ormer anchorage under it, and remained there !or the night# T;/5*A$ 1 F/B);A)$ 1E,2 <eBt morning we stood out o! the bay with light windsD and a!ter being %ut into some danger by them, in %assing the island near 4a%e 5hield, a breeJe s%rung u% at G# by 5# and we %roceeded in the eBamination o! the main coast# The situation o! the shi% at noon, and the bearings o! the land were as under( 'atitude, obser"ed to the north and south, 12 deg# 2,' 1+C 4hasm 6#, centre o! the high %art, 5# 1+ /# 4a%e 5hield, the south eBtremity, <# E+ G# Point Arrowsmith, dist# + miles, <# 1E G# Furthest eBtreme "isible !rom the dec # <# 1, /# 8ur course was then directed <# /# by <#, %arallel with the coast, until the wind "eered round ahead and dro"e us o!! to the eastwardD at siB o'cloc Point Arrowsmith bore G# 2 deg# 5#, ten or ele"en miles, and a round hummoc , beyond the noon's eBtreme, was then seen at <# 21L2 deg# /# The coast here shows some %rojections on which are sandy hills, with shallow bights between themD the hills !urther bac , es%ecially behind Point Arrowsmith, are better co"ered with wood, but there was no a%%earance o! !ertility in the country, nor o! shelter in the bights# .<8)T9 48A5T# 4A'/*8< BA$#3 Ge wor ed to windward all night, with a north&western breeJeD and in the morning .G/*</5*A$ 2 F/B);A)$ 1E,23 saw two islands, the outermost rather low and !lat, nearly in the situation where three are mar ed in the *utch chart# These are laid down at the entrance o! an o%ening, o! a ri"er&li e !ormD and there a%%eared to be a wide o%ening behind them, the entrance being round a %rojection u%on which is the hummoc set at <# 21L2 deg# /# in the e"ening( this %rojection 6 ha"e named 4AP/ G)/$, in com%liment to the 9on# general Grey, lately commander o! the !orces at the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# 8ur situation and bearings at noon were,

'atitude# obser"ed to the north and south# 12 deg# 2' -1C 'ongitude !rom sur"ey, 12+ -+1L2 Furthest southern eBtreme, !rom the dec , 5# K2 G# 4a%e Grey, the round hummoc , <# M+ G# 4a%e Grey, outermost roc s near it, <# -1 G# 8uter and rather !lat isle, centre, <# 2 G# 8n the wind "eering to north&east, we were enabled to weather the roc s near 4a%e Grey, but not more than a @uarter o! a mileD the de%th in %assing was I !athoms, and it continued between that and 11, two miles !urther u% the bay, where, on its !alling calm, an anchor was dro%%ed# 6n the e"ening we ran !urther u%, and at sunset anchored in I !athoms, mud and sand, near the innermost and largest o! three islands which lie in the entrance# Around, and between these islands, were many islets and roc s, and others were seen to the north&eastwardD the bay eBtended to the north&west, and was di"ided into two branches by a %rojection named APoint MiddleA, the eastern branch being de!ended !rom the sea by a tongue o! land, whose south %oint seemed to be connected by a ree! o! roc s with the inner island# This %oint 6 ha"e called APoint AleBanderAD and to a hill u%on the !urthest "isible %art o! the coast to the northward, the a%%ellation o! AMount AleBanderA is gi"en# T9;)5*A$ 2 F/B);A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning, there being no wind to mo"e the shi%, 6 sent the master u% the bay with the whale boat, to search !or !resh water and a secure anchorageD and on his ma ing the signal to !ollow, a little be!ore noon, we steered !or Point Middle# A shoal was seen to eBtend !rom it, down the bayD and the de%th ha"ing diminished to - !athoms, we hauled u% into the eastern branch, and anchored under Point AleBander in -1L2 !athoms, muddy bottomD our distance !rom the shore being one mile, and two cables length !rom a ban in !ront o! it, u%on which there was only siB !eet water# 6n this situation, the outer roc s near 4a%e Grey bore 5 2E deg# /#, and the inner roc s !rom the island near Point AleBander#, 5# 2M deg# /#D the intermediate angle o! K deg# being that at which alone we were o%en to the sea# 5e"eral nati"es were seen on the shore abreast o! the shi%, and lieutenant Fowler was sent to communicate with them, and to search !or !resh water# They stayed to recei"e him, without showing that timidity so usual with the AustraliansD and a!ter a !riendly intercourse in which mutual %resents were made, Mr# Fowler returned with the in!ormation that !resh water was %lenti!ul# F)6*A$ - F/B);A)$ 1E,2 /arly neBt morning, ha"ing gi"en directions !or two tents, a seine, and a cor%oral's guard, to be sent on shore under the command o! the !irst lieutenant, 6 landed with the botanical gentlemenD the nati"es running !rom their night residences to meet us# There were twel"e middle&aged and young men, all o! whom eB%ressed much joy, es%ecially at seeing ABongareeA, our good&natured 6ndian !rom Port :ac son# 8n the arri"al o! two other boats, the nati"es retreated into the wood, eBce%t two, who assisted in hauling the seineD and the others came bac by degrees, without arms as be!ore, and recei"ed a %ortion o! the !ish# A situation was chosen !or the tents, and con!idence seeming to be established, 6 went into the wood, towards some sand hills, !or the %ur%ose o! ta ing bearingsD but whilst ma ing the circuit o! a salt swam% which lay in the way, the nati"es were heard running in the wood, and calling to each

other# This ha%%ened twice, and at length a mus et was !iredD u%on which 6 returned to the tents with all eB%edition# Ghen the botanical gentlemen had entered the wood with their attendants, the greater %art o! the nati"es !ollowed themD and one too an o%%ortunity o! snatching a hatchet !rom the hand o! a ser"ant# The 6ndians then ran o!!, but seeing no %ursuit, nor much notice ta en, soon returned, and became more !riendly than e"er# /ach o! our %arty had a nati"e with him, wal ing arm in arm, and Mr# Brown's ser"ant had two, who %aid him %articular attentionD so much so, that whilst one held him by the arm, the other snatched the mus et o!! his shoulder, and they all again ran o!!D that is, all who remained, !or se"eral had %re"iously withdrawn themsel"es# A mus et was !ired a!ter the thie!D but he had already got some distance, and it %roduced no other "isible e!!ect than that o! ma ing him run !aster# The botanists then judged it im%rudent to !ollow their %ursuit, and returned to the tents# Two hours %assed be!ore any thing more was heard o! the nati"esD some were then seen in the wood, and an inter"iew was obtained with two, who being made to understand that a hatchet would be gi"en on the mus et being returned, they went o!! to !etch it# 6n a little time it was actually brought, with the stoc bro en and ramrod gone, and the hatchet was %aidD a!ter which the nati"es came to the tents with con!idence, and some would ha"e remained all night, had they been %ermitted# 5AT;)*A$ M F/B);A)$ 1E,2 This a!ternoon and the !ollowing morning, 6 too bearings !rom two stations on Point Middle, and others !rom a sandy hummoc on Point AleBander# The nati"es came early to the tents, and beha"ed themsel"es tran@uilly until noonD when one o! those who had been most indly treated, ran o!! with a wooding aBe, and !rom the thic ness o! the !orest, eluded the %ursuit made a!ter him# The cor%oral and another marine, who had run a!ter the 6ndian without their hats, recei"ed a Acou%&de&soleilA, and were sent on board in a state nearly a%%roaching to deliriumD but they ha%%ily reco"ered# Finding these %eo%le so determinately bent u%on stealing e"ery thing within their reach, 6 ordered lieutenant Fowler to watch an o%%ortunity o! seiJing two o! themD and a!ter a while to release one, ma ing him understand that the other would be carried away in the shi%, i! the stolen aBe were not returned# 6n the e"ening, 6 went o"er with two o! the gentlemen to the south side o! the bayD !or the %ur%ose o! ta ing a station u%on a hill there named AMount 4aledonA, whose height eBceeded that o! any other near the water side# Ge landed at dus , at the !oot o! the mountD and ascended the to% neBt morning .5;<*A$ + F/B);A)$ 1E,23 be!ore the heat o! the sun became eBcessi"e, %assing in the way se"eral streamlets which were coursing ra%idly down to the sea# The "iew was !ully e@ual to what had been antici%ated, and eBtended to a %rojection hal! way to Point Arrowsmith on one side, and o"er all the islands in the entrance to Mount AleBander on the other# 8ut o! thirty&nine bearings ta en at this station, the !ollowing are selected as being most essential to the sur"ey o! the coast# The tents, <# 2 deg# M,' /# Point AleBander, the eBtremity, <# +, , /#

8uter, and rather !lat isle, <# E+ deg# 1M' to EE 22 /# Mount AleBander, the to% <# 2K 2, /# 4a%e Grey, the outer roc s near it, 5# +M M /# A southern %rojection o! the coast, 5# 1- E /# Ge returned to the shi% in the a!ternoon, and the nati"es had not then a%%roached the tents since the the!t o! the aBeD but neBt morning .M8<*A$ K F/B);A)$ 1E,23 two o! them ad"anced, bringing some small !ruitsD and on being in"ited to eat !ish, they sat down and were immediately seiJed, some others who !ollowed, running away on hearing their cries# 6n a little time the eldest and most intelligent o! them was liberatedD on his %romising by signs to restore the aBe, and being made to understand that his com%anion would be carried o!!, should he !ail# Ge obser"ed !rom the shi% much running o! the nati"es amongst the bushes, and %ee%ing about the tentsD and least they should attem%t any mischie!, a s%ring was %ut u%on the cable, and a siB&%ounder, with gra%e shot, e%t readyD but a!ter one o! the %risoners was released they seemed to ha"e less anBiety, and se"eral swam bac across a salt cree , to their usual %lace o! residence# 6n the e"ening 6 landed at the tentsD and ta ing the nati"e, a youth o! !ourteen named AGogaA, into the boat, rowed to the %lace most !re@uented by the 6ndians, many o! whom were seen behind the bushes# Two came !orward, bringing a young girl in their armsD and by eB%ressi"e signs they o!!ered her to Bongaree, in order to entice him on shore, !or the %ur%ose, a%%arently, o! seiJing him by way o! retaliation# Ge demanded the restoration o! the aBe, and our %risoner seemed to use all his %owers to en!orce itD but the constant answer was, that the thie! A$ehangereeA, had been beaten and was gone awayD and !inding no aBe li ely to be brought, Goga was carried on board the shi%, through a great deal o! crying, entreating, threatening, and struggling on his %art# 9e there ate heartily, laughed, sometimes cried, and noticed e"ery thingD !re@uently eB%ressing admiration at what he saw, and es%ecially at the shee%, hogs, and cats# Ge had not seen any bows and arrows in the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, nor in any %art o! Terra AustralisD but some o! those !rom Murray's 6slands being shown to Goga, he new the use o! them, and ga"e their names in his languageD it may there!ore be true, as Burgomaster Gitsen relates, that they are used by the nati"es on the <orth&west 4oast and in the Gul%hD but when he describes the bows as being Co! such a length, that one end rests on the ground when shooting,C 6 cannot hel% sus%ecting some eBaggeration in his in!ormer# T;/5*A$ E F/B);A)$ 1E,2 A!ter brea !ast neBt morning, 6 too our %risoner to the tents# 8n a%%roaching the shore, he was %re%aring to ma e a s%ring out o! the boat, which made it necessary to bind him again, !or he had been loosed on board the shi%# 9e struggled much, calling u%on Bongaree to assist himD but a!ter a while, became @uiet, and 6 le!t him bound to a tree, eating rice and !ish# A %arty o! the gentlemen landed near the head o! the bay, ho%ing to botaniJe without interru%tionD but a number o! nati"es had collected there, two o! whom ad"anced, and sought to entice them into the wood by eB%laining how many animals might be there shot# The gentlemen were aware o! the treachery, and soon thought it ad"isable to return to the boatD u%on which the nati"es closed in u%on them, with %oised s%ears and e"ery a%%earance o! intended mischie!# The %ointing o! mus ets sto%%ed their !orwardness !or a momentD but they came on again, and a shot was !ired at

each o! the two !oremost, which %ut them to !light, and they were not seen a!terwardsD but the gentlemen thought it unsa!e to %roceed in their occu%ation, and returned to the shi%# <either o! the two nati"es dro%%edD but the mus ets being loaded with buc shot, it was su%%osed that one or both, must ha"e been wounded# The second e"ening o! Goga's ca%ti"ity came, and there was no a%%earance o! the aBe being restoredD his detention, on the contrary, had caused some annoyance to us, and mischie! to his countrymenD and i! %erse"ered in to the eBtent o! carrying him away, might be an injury to those who should come a!ter us, es%ecially to ca%tain Baudin, whom we daily eB%ected to meet, according to what he had said at Port :ac son# 9ad the conse@uences a!!ected oursel"es alone, the time o! our de%arture was so near that 6 should ha"e been glad to ha"e e%t GogaD !or he was a s%rightly lad, whom our treatment would soon ha"e reconciled, and in any !uture intercourse with his countrymen, as also in !urnishing in!ormation u%on many interesting %oints, he might ha"e been o! ser"iceD but !or the abo"e reason, and that it was not altogether just to do otherwise, 6 determined to release the %oor %risoner though the aBe should not be restored, and went to the tents !or that %ur%ose# Goga a%%eared to be a little melancholy in his bondage, but u%on the whole, had not !ared amiss, ha"ing been eating the greater %art o! the morning and a!ternoon# 9e begged hard to be released, %romising, with tears in his eyes, to bring bac the aBeD and a!ter gi"ing him some clothing and %resents, he was su!!ered to de%art# As !ar as two hundred yards, he wal ed away leisurelyD but then, loo ing !irs behind him, too to his heels with all his might, lea"ing us no !aith in the !ul!ilment o! his %athetic %romises# At this time the holds were com%leted with water and wood, and on the !ollowing morning .G/*</5*A$ I F/B);A)$ 1E,23 the last obser"ations !or the time ee%ers were ta enD a!ter which the shore establishment was embar ed, and we %re%ared !or sea# The botanists made an eBcursion u%on Point Middle, and %ursued their researches without disturbanceD and neither Goga nor any o! his countrymen were seen during the whole day# 6t has been said, that an o%ening o! a ri"er&li e !orm is laid down in the *utch chart, in the situation o! this bay# <o name is there gi"en to itD and as 6 concei"e our eBamination to con!er the right o! bestowing one, 6 ha"e distinguished it by the title o! 4A'/*8< BA$, as a mar o! res%ect to the worthy nobleman, lately go"ernor o! the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, a!ter whom the mount on the south side was also named# There is no other sa!e %assage into the bay than that between the islands in the entrance and 4a%e GreyD which ca%e is remar able !or the round hummoc on its eBtremity, and lies in latitude 12 deg# 1' south, and longitude 12+ deg# -2' east# The western branch o! the bay a%%eared to be shallow, and not well sheltered, so that 6 did not go u% it to soundD but in the eastern branch, which is near three miles wide, there is !rom - to 2 !athoms on blue mud, u% to within three&@uarters o! a mile o! a roc y %oint at the headD and the roc s o! Point AleBander may there be nearly, i! not altogether brought to shut on with those o! 4a%e Grey# Good !or !uel was %lenti!ul e"ery where, and there was no di!!iculty in %rocuring water !rom the %onds and holes in the low, sandy land near the shore o! Point AleBanderD but !rom May to *ecember, 6 doubt whether they would not all be dried u%, as well as the small streams which descended !rom Mount 4aledon# 8ur success with the seine was "ery moderate, more sea slugs, or what we called sea cucumbers !rom their sha%e, being brought on shore than !ishD these di!!ered !rom what we had seen on the ree!s o! the /ast

4oast, in being o! a more !irm consistence, and o! a light brown or grey, instead o! a blac colour( when these slugs were %ressed with the !oot, they threw out a stream o! water to some distance# The country round 4aledon Bay, es%ecially at the heads o! the two branches, is generally low landD Mount 4aledon and the hills o! the south side are o! granite, and this stone is !ound in some other %artsD but at Point AleBander the basis is a sand stone, more or less im%regnated with iron, and at Point Middle it is almost iron ore# A %iece o! this last stone carried the needle o! the theodolite entirely roundD yet the bearings ta en !rom thence did not show any di!!erence !rom those at Mount 4aledon, and !rom those u%on Point AleBander, ta en !rom a hilloc o! sea sand, they did not di!!er more than hal! a degree# 5o !ar as our eBamination went the soil is %oor, being either sandy or stony, with a small miBture in some %laces o! "egetable earthD notwithstanding which both the grass and wood were luBuriant, owing to the abundance o! rain which had lately !allen, and to the warmth o! the climate( in the dry season, 6 should judge the country would be almost burnt u%# The AcasuarinaA was %lenti!ul in the sandy %laces, and the Aeucaly%tusA amongst the roc s, where it reached a tolerable siJeD the wild nutmeg was !ound u%on Point Middle, and there aloneD our a%%le, the new s%ecies o! AeugeniaA, grew on Point AleBander and elsewhere, and also a !ew other %lants bearing small !ruits o! little use# Foot mar s o! the angaroo were seen in di!!erent %laces, but none o! the animals, nor indeed any @uadru%edD and birds seemed to be rare, both in the woods and on the shores# The nati"es o! 4aledon Bay are the same race o! men as those o! Port :ac son and =ing George's 5ound, %laces at nearly the two o%%osite eBtremities o! Terra AustralisD7 in %ersonal a%%earance they were behind some tribes we had seen, but the di!!erence did not go beyond what a less abundant su%%ly o! !ood might %roduce# All those who came to the tents had lost the u%%er !ront tooth on the le!t side, whereas at Port :ac son it is the right tooth which is noc ed out at the age o! %ubertyD whether the women undergo the same o%eration, contrary to the usage at Port :ac son, we had no o%%ortunity o! nowing, ha"ing seen only one !emale, and that at a distance# This girl wore a small %iece o! bar , in guise o! a !ig lea!, which was the sole a%%roBimation to clothing seen among them# Abo"e the elbow the men usually wore a bandage o! net wor , in which was stuc a short %iece o! strong grass, called AtomoA, and used as a tooth %ic D but the most remar able circumstance in their %ersons was, that the whole o! them a%%eared to ha"e undergone the :ewish and Mahometan rite o! circumcision# The same thing was be!ore noticed in a nati"e o! 6sle Goodah, and in two at Gellesley's 6slandsD it would seem, there!ore, to be general on the west side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD but with what "iew it may be done, or whence the custom were recei"ed, it is not in my %ower to state# <o such %ractice was !ound on the 5outh or /ast 4oasts, nor was it obser"ed in the nati"es o! the islands in Torres' 5trait, who howe"er, go na ed as the Australians# .7 6n Van *iemen's 'and, according to ca%tain 4oo and succeeding "isitors, and on the <orth&west 4oast, according to *am%ier, the inhabitants ha"e woolly hairD in which %articular they are di!!erent !rom the race abo"e mentioned# Ghich o! them may be aborigines can be only conjectured, until the interior o! the new continent shall be eB%lored#3 <o other wea%ons than s%ears were seen amongst these %eo%leD but they were not unac@uainted with bows and arrows# 6t is %robable that they ha"e

bar canoes, though none were seen, !or se"eral trees were !ound stri%%ed, as i! !or that %ur%oseD yet when Bongaree made them a %resent o! the canoe brought !rom Blue&mud Bay, they eB%ressed "ery little %leasure at the gi!t, and did not seem to now how to re%air it# That this bay had be!ore recei"ed the "isits o! some strangers, was e"inced by the nowledge which the nati"es had o! !ire armsD they imitated the act o! shooting when we !irst landed, and when a mus et was !ired at their re@uest, were not much alarmed# A @uantity o! %osts was lying near the water, which had been e"idently cut with iron instrumentsD and when we in@uired o! the inhabitants concerning them, they imitated with their hands the motion o! an aBe cutting down a tree, and then sto%%ing, eBclaimed APooOA Ghence we understood that the %eo%le who cut the wood had !ire arms# This was all that could be learned !rom the nati"esD but !rom the bamboos and %artitions o! !rame wor !ound here, similar to those at Pellew's Grou%, they were doubtless the same Asiatic nation, i! not the same indi"iduals, o! whom so many traces had been seen all the way !rom the head o! the gul%h# The %ro%ensity shown by the nati"es to steal, es%ecially our aBes, so contrary to all 6 ha"e nown and heard o! their countrymen, is not only a %roo! that they had been %re"iously "isited by %eo%le %ossessing iron im%lements, but !rom their audacity it would a%%ear, that the e!!ect o! !ire arms was either not "ery certain in the hands o! the strangers, or had seldom been resorted to in the %unishment o! aggressionD and !rom the circumstance o! the 6ndians bringing us a !ew berries, as a recom%ense !or the last stolen aBe, it should seem that they had been accustomed to ma e "ery easy atonements !or their the!ts# 6 ha"e some ho%e that those who may !ollow us will not be robbed, at least with so much e!!ronteryD and at the same time, that the inhabitants o! 4aledon Bay will not a"oid, but be desirous o! !urther communication with /uro%eans# 6 do not now that the language at any two %arts o! Terra Australis, howe"er near, has been !ound to be entirely the sameD !or e"en at Botany Bay, Port :ac son, and Bro en Bay, not only the dialect, but many words are radically di!!erentD7 and this con!irms one %art o! an obser"ation, the truth o! which seems to be generally admitted( that although similarity o! language in two nations %ro"es their origin to be the same, yet dissimilarity o! language is no %roo! o! the contrary %osition# The language o! 4aledon Bay may there!ore be totally di!!erent to what is s%o en on the /ast and 5outh 4oasts, and yet the inhabitants ha"e one common originD but 6 do not thin that the language is absolutely and wholly di!!erent, though it certainly was no better understood by Bongaree than by oursel"es# 6n three instances 6 !ound a similarity( the %ersonal %ronoun o! Port :ac son, Agni&aA >6?, was used here, and a%%arently in the same senseD when in@uiry was made a!ter the aBe, the nati"es re%lied CA$ehangeree %yA,C ma ing signs o! beatingD and A%yA signi!ies to beat, in the Port&:ac son languageD the third instance was o! the lad Goga calling to Bongaree in the boat, which a!ter he had done se"eral times without being answered, he became angry, and eBclaimed ABongaree&gahOA in a "ehement manner, as Bongaree himsel! would ha"e done in a similar case# For the !ollowing list o! words 6 am %rinci%ally indebted to Mr# Brown, naturalist to the eB%editionD who remar ed that the word here !or eye was "ery nearly the same with that used, both at =ing George's 5ound and Port :ac son, to eB%ress the same organ# .7 This multi%licity o! tongues in the same country %resents an eBtraordinary contrast with the AislandsA in the Great 8cean, where, !rom the 5andwich 6sles near the northern tro%ic, to the !urthest eBtremity o! <ew Peeland in -K deg# south, the language is almost e"ery where the sameD

and with so little di!!erence o! dialect, that the se"eral inhabitants ha"e not much di!!iculty to understand each other#3 .'65T 8F /<G'659 G8)*5 A<* T985/ ;5/* B$ T9/ P/8P'/ AT 4A'/*8< BA$ T8 /HP)/55 T9/ 5AM/ 6*/A#&&not included in eboo #3 6n collecting the words some errors may %ossibly ha"e been made, either !rom misunderstanding the nati"es or !rom their decei"ing us intentionallyD !or a!ter the tric %ut u%on Mons# 'abillardiere at the Friendly 6slands, in the words gi"en him !or the high numerals, they are always to be sus%ected# *uring the wee we remained in 4aledon Bay, the !ollowing astronomical obser"ations were ta en# A'atitudeA !rom three obser"ations to the north and south, ta en in a boat astern o! the shi% and reduced to the tents on Point AleBander, 12 deg# -K' 1+C 5# A'ongitudeA !rom twel"e sets o! distances o! stars east and west o! the moon, ta en on a stand by lieut# Flinders, and o! which the indi"idual results are gi"en in Table V6# o! the A%%endiB <o# 6, 12+ deg# 2M' -K#MC /# The rates o! the time ee%ers were !ound !rom morning's altitudes o! the sun in an arti!icial horiJon, between Feb# 2 and ED and the means, with the errors !rom mean Greenwich time at noon there on the Ith, were as under( /arnshaw's <o# M-2, slow 2h -1' ,#I1C and losing 1+#M2C %er day# /arnshaw's <o# M2,, slow 2h 2K' 1I#MMC and losing 2,#E2C %er day# <o# M2, had been accidentally let down in Blue&mud Bay, whence its longitude is not now noticedD that gi"en by <o# M-2 on Feb# 2, with the rate !rom 8bser"ation 6sland, was 12+ deg# -2' 2#MC, or K'1+C greater than the lunars# Gere a rate used, e@ually accelerated !rom that o! 8bser"ation 6sland to what was !ound in 4aledon Bay, the longitude would be ,' MMC less than the lunarsD but during the twel"e days occu%ied in circumna"igating Groote /ylandt, it was %ro"ed that this time ee%er was ee%ing its !ormer rate, and conse@uently the acceleration cannot here be admitted# 6n constructing the chart o! the coast and islands between Pellew's Grou% and 4aledon Bay, a time ee%er was re@uired only in laying down the south and east sides o! Groote /ylandt, and the main coast u% to 4a%e BarrowD in all the remaining %arts the longitude was %reser"ed by a connected chain o! bearings, mostly ta en on shore# The time& ee%er rec oning !rom 8bser"ation 6sland, and that by sur"ey wor ed bac !rom the !iBed %oint in 4aledon Bay, meet each other on :an# M %#m# at 4onneBion 6slandD and the di!!erence was there !ound to be 2' -1C, which the time ee%er ga"e more to the east# This may ha"e arisen !rom 8bser"ation 6sland being laid down in a longitude too great by that @uantity, or 4aledon Bay too little, or !rom a small error in eachD but the time ee%er was not thought entitled to such %er!ect con!idence, as to cause an alteration to be made in these stations# The di!!erence o! 2' -1C is there!ore corrected by a%%lying &1+#2C o! longitude %er day to the time ee%er, !rom 8bser"ation to 4onneBion 6slandD Groote /ylandt is laid down mostly !rom the time ee%er, with the !iBed correction &2' -1C all roundD and !rom thence to 4aledon Bay the chart is constructed !rom bearings and obser"ed latitudes#

The mean Adi%A o! the south end o! the needle, obser"ed at the tents, was 2+ deg# 2E'# AVariationA o! the theodolite, 2 deg# 2,' /# 8n board the shi%, at anchor o!! the south&west side o! the inner island at the entrance, the "ariation !rom three com%asses, with the head <# G# by G#, was 2 deg# 2+'D by the sur"eying com%ass alone, 2 deg# -+' east, and this, which 6 consider to be the best, would be, corrected, 1 deg# 1-' /# At my di!!erent stations on shore, the "ariation seemed to be between 2 deg# and 2 deg# 2,' eastD eBce%t on the north&east end o! the outer island in the entrance, where it a%%eared to be no more than 1 deg# 2,'# The rise o! AtideA in 4aledon Bay was so small, that nothing certain could be determined on board, either u%on the @uantity or the timeD but it a%%eared !rom the obser"ations o! lieutenant Fowler at the tents, that there were two tides in the day, the rise o! which "aried !rom 2 !eet 1,, to - !eet 1, inchesD and that the time o! high water too %lace at Anine hours and a hal! a!terA the moon %assed o"er and under the meridian# 8n board the shi%, the range o! the thermometer was !rom E2 deg# to EK deg#, nearly as it had been !rom !irst entering the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD and on shore it was %robably 1, deg# higher# 5e"eral o! our %eo%le were ill o! diarrhoeas at this time, accom%anied with some !e"er, which was attributed by the surgeon to the heat and the moist state o! the atmos%hereD !or since *ecember, when the north&west monsoon began, not many days had %assed without rain, and thunder s@ualls were !re@uent# /B%osing the head unco"ered to the sun, more es%ecially i! engaged in strong eBercise, was %ro"ed to be "ery dangerous hereD 6 lost one man in Blue&mud Bay !rom a want o! due %recaution in this %articular, and at this %lace two others "ery narrowly esca%ed# Mus etoes were numerous and eBceedingly troublesome on shore, as also the blac !liesD but no "enemous re%tiles were seen in our limited eBcursions round 4aledon Bay# The mercury in the barometer stood between 2I#I, and 2I#IM inches, in the rainy weather with strong winds !rom the eastwardD but with !ine weather and "ariable winds, more es%ecially !rom the south and westward, it descended to 2I#E, inches# 49APT/) 6H# *e%arture !rom 4aledon Bay# 4a%e Arnhem# Mel"ille Bay# 4a%e Gilber!orce, and Bromby's 6sles# The /nglish 4om%any's 6slands( meeting there with "essels !rom Macassar# Arnhem Bay# The Gessel's 6slands# Further eBamination o! the <orth 4oast %ost%oned# Arri"al at 4oe%ang Bay, in Timor# )emar s and astronomical obser"ations# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 T9;)5*A$ 1, F/B);A)$ 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate HV#?

At daylight in the morning o! Feb# 1,, we sailed down 4aledon Bay, and steered eastward along the south side o! the islands lying in the entrance# 6n %assing the outer island 6 landed with the botanical gentlemen, and too bearings !rom a small ele"ation on its north&east end, which materially assisted in !iBing the %ositions o! the northern islets, and eBtending the sur"ey onward along the coast# 4a%e Grey, the hummoc on it, bore 5# 2K deg# 12' G# Mount AleBander, <# 11 -M G# Furthest eBtreme northward, <# 12 -2 /# This outer island is nearly a mile long, /# by <# and G# by 5#, and mostly destitute o! woodD but one "alley was thic ly co"ered, and so interlaced with "ines as to be im%enetrable# The latitude obser"ed to the north and south, at the sandy west %oint, was 12 deg# M2' MIC south# Ge re&joined the shi% at one o'cloc , and steered northward, without side o! the islets and roc s which lie scattered along the shore as !ar as Mount AleBander# Amongst these are three near to each other, with hummoc s u%on them, which, as in many %oints o! "iew they seem to ma e but one island, may %robably ha"e been meant by the northernmost o! the three isles in the *utch chart# The wind had been !rom the southward, but on closing in with the coast at Mount AleBander it came !rom <# G# by <#, and edged us o!! a little !rom the land# At sunset the shore was three or !our miles distant, and Mount AleBander bore 5# M2 deg# G# A hummoc at the !urthest eBtreme, <# I /# Ge steered on till eight o'cloc , and then anchored in 21 !athoms, blue mud# At daylight .F)6*A$ 11 F/B);A)$ 1E,23, the shore was !ound to be distant !our or !i"e milesD the !urthest %art then seen was near the eastern eBtremity o! Arnhem's 'and, and this ha"ing no name in the *utch chart, is called 4AP/ A)<9/M# Mount AleBander was set at 5# -E deg# G# Two roc s under the shore, dist# M or + miles, <# 1M G# 4a%e Arnhem, rising land within the eBtremity, <# 111L2 G# From Mount AleBander to 4a%e Arnhem there is nine leagues o! wa"ing sandy coastD it a!!ords only one small o%ening, which is on the south side o! a cli!!y %oint, with two islets lying o!! the entrance, and may %robably a!!ord shelter !or boats# At eight in the morning we %assed 4a%e Arnhem, a smooth grassy %rojection which rises gently !rom the water's edge into the country, but is no where o! much ele"ationD a broad roc lies near the south&eastern eBtremity, and its %osition was ascertained to be 12 deg# 1I' south, and 12K deg# 1' east# 5trong ri%%lings o! a tide or current eBtended some distance o!! the ca%e, and in %assing through them we had irregular soundings between 2K and 1E !athomsD beyond 4a%e Arnhem the shore trended <# G# by <#, in roc y %oints and shallow bights, but the wind being !rom that direction,

we could not !ollow it closely# The !urthest land "isible at noon was a !lat&to%%ed hill which 6 call AMount 5aundersA, and nearer to us was a higher and more woody hill, also !lat&to%%ed and stee% at its north end, to which is gi"en the name o! AMount *undasAD their bearings, and our %osition at this time were as under( 'atitude obser"ed, 12 deg# 121L2' 'ongitude !rom sur"ey and time ee%er, 12K 21L2 Mount *undas, blu!! north end, dist# E miles, 5# EM G# Mount 5aunders, north end, <# E-1L2 G# 4a%e Arnhem, a rising within the eBtremity, 5# 21 G# Ge tac ed to the westward in the a!ternoon, and an island came in sight, lying to the north o! the two mounts, with se"eral roc s and islets scattered on its north&east side# At sunset the wind died away, and a stream anchor was dro%%ed in 1+ !athoms sandy groundD our situation being !i"e miles !rom the shore under Mount *undas, and three !rom the nearest roc y islets to the north&west# The !lood tide set gently to the westward, and induced me to su%%ose there might be a %assage within the island and roc s, and in the morning .5AT;)*A$ 12 F/B);A)$ 1E,23 our endea"ours were used to reach itD but the winds being light and mostly contrary, the e"ening came be!ore we got through# An anchor was then dro%%ed in - !athoms, coarse sand, one mile and a hal! !rom the sandy shore under Mount 5aunders, and three miles !rom the south&west end o! the island# The %assage is more than two miles wide, and our soundings in wor ing through it were between -1L2 and + !athoms on a gra"elly bottomD but a!terwards we had little more in some %laces than 2 !athoms# .<8)T9 48A5T# M/'V6''/ BA$#3 Two nati"es, with a canoe, had been seen u%on the islandD and as our boat stood that way, sounding ahead o! the shi%, they wa"ed and called to the %eo%le# The island is about !i"e miles long, and between one and two in breadthD it is low, mostly destitute o! wood, and the shores in general are sandyD and not being laid down in the *utch chart, 6 distinguish it, with the islets and roc s to the north and north&east, by the name o! AMel"ille 6slesA( the south end which !orms the %assage, lies in 12 deg# E1L2' south, and 12+ deg# M2' east# 6n the o%%osite shore, between Mount 5aunders and *undas, is a sandy bight where shi%s would be sheltered !rom all winds eBce%t those at north&east, i! the water be dee% enough !or them# The trees u%on the hills showed a dar &green !oliageD but the low land, es%ecially under Mount 5aunders, was sandy and barren, and so continued !or se"en miles westward, to a low %oint near a woody islet# Further on, the coast too a northern direction, and was seen !rom the mast head as !ar as <# <# G#D but no other %art could be set !rom the dec than the highest o! se"eral eminences on the bac land, named AMount BonnerA, which %ro"ed to be an use!ul mar in the sur"ey# The bearings ta en at this anchorage were %rinci%ally these( Mount *undas, blu!! north end, 5# M- deg# /# Goody islet, near a western sandy %oint, 5# +2 G# Mount Bonner, <# E2 G# Mel"ille 6sles, the northernmost, <# 12 /# Mel"ille 6sles, the largest, <# E2 deg# /# to /ast#

5;<*A$ 12 F/B);A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning we steered westward, with a light air o! wind at south and a !lood tide in our !a"ourD and ha"ing %assed o"er some ri%%lings near the anchorage, our soundings became regular, increasing !rom K to 12 !athoms# 8n a breeJe setting in at north&west, the course was directed towards a bight behind the woody isletD and a little be!ore noon its a%%earance became so %romising, that 6 steered into it be!ore the wind# 6n %assing the islet and sandy %oint we had !rom 1, to K !athoms, in an o%ening o! !our miles wideD and a bay o! considerable eBtent then lay be!ore us# 6n the middle o! the bay were three roc s, and to the north&east o! them a headland, beyond which the water eBtended eastwardD we steered to %ass between these till the de%th diminished to - !athoms, when we tac ed and let go the anchor in the north&eastern %art o! the bay, in M !athoms, muddy bottomD the sandy %oint at the entrance bore G# by <#, one mile and a @uarter, and the largest o! some granitic roc s in !ront o! the beach, <# by G# hal! a mile# A boat was sent to haul the seine on the beach, and 6 went there with the botanical gentlemen# The de%th was M !athoms close to the shore, e"en within the roc sD and the shi% might ha"e been %laced there in %er!ect security, though the room was scarcely su!!icient to allow o! swinging at single anchor# 6 called the largest o! the roc s which !orm the south&east side o! this snug little %lace, A9arbour )oc AD and the sandy %oint at the entrance o! the bay is named APoint *undasA# A!ter the seine had been hauled with good success, 6 wal ed to the eBtremity o! the %ointD and !rom a hilloc o! sand a little way bac , too a set o! bearings to commence the sur"ey, in which was included the blu!! north end o! Mount 5aunders at <# K- deg# MM' /# Many !oot&mar s o! men, dogs, and small angaroos were obser"ed on the beach#, but neither nati"es nor @uadru%eds were seen# M8<*A$ 1- F/B);A)$ 1E,2 /arly neBt morning a %arty o! men was sent to cut wood, and the botanical gentlemen landed on Point *undas u%on their %ursuitsD 6 went to eBamine the north&eastern %art o! the bay, where the water eBtended two miles abo"e the shi%D but the de%th in it %resently diminished to 21L2 !athoms, and to 1 near the end# Beyond a low isthmus there, a %iece o! water was seen communicating with the south&eastern %art o! the bay, and ma ing a %eninsula o! the high roc y land named A*rimmie 9eadAD at high water, indeed, it is an island, !or the tide then !lows o"er some %arts o! the isthmus# A!ter ta ing two sets o! bearings, 6 rowed southward along the shore o! *rimmie 9eadD and !rom a hill near the south&west eBtremity obtained a good "iew o! the bay, and saw the western coast as !ar northward as a cli!!y ca%e which was named a!ter AGilliam Gilber!orceA, /s@#, the worthy re%resentati"e o! $or shire# The %rinci%al bearings !rom hence were, 4ar# e Gilber!orce, highest %art, <# 2M deg# -,' G# Mount Bonner, <# M1 MM G# Point *undas, distant 2 miles, <# M2 2, G# 'ea"ing *rimmie 9ead, 6 steered o"er to the middlemost o! the three roc s in the bay, with a de%th o! water !rom 2 to +1L2 !athoms, on muddy ground# These roc s lie nearly due south !rom Point *undas, and 6 %ro%osed to obser"e the latitude on both sides !rom thence, whilst lieutenant

Flinders did the same at the %oint, that a base line !or the sur"ey might be obtained !rom the di!!erenceD but the di!!iculty o! !inding a con"enient %osition disa%%ointed me, and no satis!actory base was obtained hereD so that the eBtent o! this bay in the chart is rather uncertain# My course !rom the three roc s was directed 5# 5# /#, !or the south side o! the bayD the distance was three miles, and the de%th !or hal! the way !rom M to 2 !athoms, but a!terwards shoal# ;%on some low cli!!s there, %artly com%osed o! %i%e clay, a !ew bearings were ta enD and a!ter wal ing a little way inland, to eBamine the country, 6 rowed bac to a small island near the south eBtremity o! *rimmie 9ead, with soundings mostly between 2 and +1L2 !athomsD but there is no shi% %assage between it and the head# 9a"ing ta en some additional bearings and loo ed o"er the islet, 6 returned on board in the e"eningD %assing in the way near a roc , dry at hal! tide, but round which, at a shi%'s length, there is 21L2 to 2 !athoms# T;/5*A$ 1M F/B);A)$ 1E,2 5ome !urther bearings and obser"ations were ta en on the 1Mth, and my intention to sail on the !ollowing morning being !rustrated by a !resh wind at north&west, with unsettled weather, Messieurs Brown and Bauer accom%anied me .G/*</5*A$ 1+ F/B);A)$ 1E,23 in a boat eBcursion to the eastern %art o! the bay# Ge !irst landed at the islet near *rimmie 9ead, that Mr# Brown might eBamine its mineralogyD and then steered three miles eastward !or a low %rojection co"ered with mangro"es, growing on roc s o! strongly im%regnated iron stone# 4oasting along the mangro"e shore !rom thence northward, and a!ter landing at one other %lace, we came to the isthmus which connects *rimmie 9ead to the land o! Point *undasD and it being near high water, the boat was got o"er the isthmus by a small %assage through the mangro"es, and we reached the shi% at one o'cloc , where e"ery thing was %re%ared !or weighing the anchor# This bay is unnoticed in the *utch chart, and 6 name it M/'V6''/ BA$, in com%liment to the )ight 9on# )obert 5aunders *undas, "iscount Mel"ille, who, as !irst lord o! the Admiralty, has continued that %atronage to the "oyage which it had eB%erienced under some o! his %redecessors# 6t is the best harbour we !ound in the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD the entrance is !rom the <# <# G#, !our miles wide, and !ree !rom dangerD and within side, the sole dangers not cons%icuous, are a sandy s%it running hal! a mile to the 5# 5# /# !rom Point *undas, and the A9al!&tide )oc A# This lies hal! a mile !rom the north&west %art o! *rimmie 9ead, and bears >true as usual?, From the sandy hilloc within Point *undas, 5# -E deg# 2M' /# From 9arbour )oc , 5# 1, 2I /# Mel"ille Bay e"ery where a!!ords good holding ground, the bottom being either mud or sandD and there is de%th !or a shi% to run between the three roc s in the middle o! the bay and *rimmie 9ead, and steer eastward until the head is brought to bear <# <# G#, at the distance o! one or two milesD but the most con"enient anchorage is just within the entrance, between Point *undas and 9arbour )oc , where a shi% may lie close to the sandy beach in !rom 2 to M !athoms# /"en within the roc there is de%th enoughD and were moorings laid down, !our or !i"e sail might swing there in %er!ect security# Ge obtained here !ire wood, and a tolerable su%%ly o! !ishD and had water been wanted, it might ha"e been obtained by

digging at the !oot o! the small hills to the north&east o! 9arbour )oc , since a hole made there by the nati"es was !ound to contain good water# The stone on the north side o! Mel"ille Bay is a granitic com%osition o! @uartJ, mica, and coarse garnetsD the garnets are large, and gi"e the stone a %lum&%udding&li e a%%earance, and when %olished, it would be beauti!ul( o"er the granite is a crust o! calcareous roc in many %laces# 8n the south side o! the bay the stone is argillaceous, but !re@uently miBed with !erruginous grainsD and on the south&east side the roc s are o! iron ore, o! which a small %iece drew the needle o! my theodolite E deg# !rom the meridian# The bearings ta en here were !ound to ha"e been M, deg# wrongD but too late to ascertain whether the error arose !rom the attraction o! the shore, or !rom the needle ha"ing been %laced at 21, deg# by mista e, instead o! 2+, deg## There did not a%%ear to be any rich soil on the borders o! the bayD but on the south and eastern sides the country was co"ered with an agreeable intermiBture o! grass and trees, and better ada%ted !or cattle than any 6 ha"e seen in so low a latitude# The soil, though not dee%, would %roduce most things suited to the climateD !or the heat and moisture do so much !or "egetation, that "ery little earth seems necessary to its su%%ort# 8n the south side the trees are mostly di!!erent s%ecies o! Aeucaly%tusA, growing tall and straight, though not largeD whereas on the sandy %arts o! Point *undas, a AcasuarinaA, o! the same s%ecies as seen at 4oen )i"er and other %arts o! the gul%h, was most abundant, and ser"ed us !or !uel# A AsantalumA, more nearly allied to the true sandel wood than any be!ore seen in this country, was !ound on the borders o! the bay# <o inhabitants were %ercei"ed, nor any !resh traces o! themD but as dogs were seen twice, it is %robable the nati"es were watching us at no great distanceD they had "isited all the %laces where 6 landed, and should there!ore seem to %ossess canoes# Traces o! the same strangers, o! whom mention has been so o!ten made, were !ound hereD and amongst others were %artitions o! !rame wor and %art o! a large earthen jar# =angaroos a%%eared to be rather numerous in the woods, brown do"es and large white %igeons were tolerably %lenti!ul, and a bird nearly blac , o! the siJe and a%%earance o! a hen, was shotD there were also coc atoos, both blac and white, and a beauti!ul s%ecies o! %aro@uet not nown at Port :ac son# The a@uatic birds were blue and white cranes, sea&%ies, and sand&lar s# Besides !ish, our seine usually brought on shore many o! the grey slugs or sea cucumbers, but not so abundantly as in 4aledon Bay# Ge were not here %estered so much with the blac !lies as be!oreD but the mus etoes and sand !lies were numerous and !ierce# Most o! the bushes contained nests made by a small green antD and i! the bush were disturbed, these resent!ul little animals came out in s@uadrons, and ne"er ceased to %ursue till the disturber was out o! sight# 6n !orcing our way amongst the underwood, we sometimes got our hair and clothes !illed with themD and as their bite is "ery shar%, and their "engeance ne"er satis!ied, there was no other resource than stri%%ing as eB%editiously as %ossible# The sun was at this time "ery near the Jenith, which not only %re"ented the latitude !rom being obser"ed in the arti!icial horiJon, but rendered the obser"ations !rom the sea horiJon, to the north and south at the same noon, liable to inaccuraciesD and in conse@uence, our %ositions in this neighbourhood may not be "ery correct# The AlatitudeA o! Point *undas, !rom one double obser"ation, was 12 deg# 12'

M,CD but !rom the bearing o! Mount 5aunders, it is ta en to be 12 deg# 12' ,C 5# A'ongitudeA by sur"ey !rom 4aledon Bay, being 1' greater than by time ee%ers,12+ deg# -1' -,C /# AVariationA o! the theodolite on 9arbour )oc ,1 deg# 12' east# And eBce%t in the doubt!ul instance o! the iron&stone shore on the south&east side o! the bay, the bearings in other %arts did not di!!er more than 2,' !rom it# The greatest rise o! AtideA here, according to the mar s on shore, did not seem to ha"e eBceeded eight !eet# 9igh water too %lace nearly !i"e hours be!ore, and Ase"en hours a!terA the moon's %assage o"er the meridianD which is nearly two hours and a hal! earlier than in 4aledon Bay, as that is earlier than in Blue&mud Bay, !urther south in the gul%h# .<8)T9 48A5T# G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A#3 G/*</5*A$ 1+ F/B);A)$ 1E,2 At two in the a!ternoon o! the 1+th, the wind being moderate at <# <# G#, we wor ed out o! Mel"ille BayD and anchored at dus , !i"e miles !rom the entrance in 12 !athoms, sand and mud# <eBt morning .T9;)5*A$ 1K F/B);A)$ 1E,23, in !ollowing the line o! the western shore with a breeJe o!! the land, we %assed three roc s lying out !rom a %oint under Mount BonnerD and !urther on, siB or se"en miles short o! 4a%e Gilber!orce, there was a small shallow o%ening# From the north %art o! this cli!!y ca%e, a chain o! islands and roc s eBtends out three or !our leagues to the /# <# /#, which 6 call ABromby's 6slesA, a!ter my worthy !riend the )e"# :ohn Bromby o! 9ull# 8ne o! these is cli!!y, and two miles longD the rest are smaller, and the whole seemed to be connected by roc s under waterD but between 4a%e Gilber!orce and the nearest islet was a s%ace three&@uarters o! a mile wide, towards which we wor ed u% against a !resh wind at G# <# G# At noon, the two cli!!y %arts o! the ca%e bore 5# 1L- /# and G# 1L- <#, !rom one to two milesD and the latter, which is the north eBtremity, was ascertained to lie in 11 deg# M2' south, and 12+ deg# 22' east# At this time the weather became s@ually with much rainD but a!ter numberless tac s, made under double&ree!ed to% sails and courses in the narrow %assage, with soundings !rom 1, to 1E !athoms, we cleared it at two o'cloc , and stretched southwestward as the main coast was !ound to trendD and thus was the eBamination o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria !inished, a!ter em%loying one hundred and !i"e days in coasting along its shores and eB%loring its bays and islands# The eBtent o! the Gul%h in longitude, !rom /ndea"our's 5trait to 4a%e Gilber!orce, is M1L2 deg# and in latitude K deg#D and the circuit, eBcluding the numerous islands and the o%enings, is little less than !our hundred leagues# 6t will be remar ed that the !orm o! it, gi"en in the old charts, is not "ery erroneous, which %ro"es it to ha"e been the result o! a real eBaminationD but as no %articulars were nown o! the disco"ery o! the south and western %arts, not e"en the name o! the author, though o%inion ascribed it with reason to Tasman, so the chart was considered as little better than a re%resentation o! !airy land, and did not obtain the credit which it was now %ro"ed to ha"e merited# 9ence!orward, the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria will ta e its station amongst the cons%icuous %arts o! the globe in a decided character# .<8)T9 48A5T# /<G'659 48MPA<$'5 65'A<*5#3

A!ter clearing the narrow %assage between 4a%e Gilber!orce and Bromby's 6sles, we !ollowed the main coast to the 5# G#D ha"ing on the starbord hand some high and large islands, which closed in towards the coast ahead so as to ma e it doubt!ul whether there were any %assage between them# ;nder the nearest island was %ercei"ed a canoe !ull o! menD and in a sort o! roadsted, at the south end o! the same island, there were siB "essels co"ered o"er li e hul s, as i! laid u% !or the bad season# 8ur conjectures were "arious as to who those %eo%le could be, and what their business hereD but we had little doubt o! their being the same, whose traces had been !ound so abundantly in the Gul%h# 6 had inclined to the o%inion that these traces had been le!t by 4hinese, and the re%ort o! the nati"es in 4aledon Bay that they had !ire arms, strengthened the su%%ositionD and combining this with the a%%earance o! the "essels, 6 set them down !or %iratical 'adrones who secreted themsel"es here !rom %ursuit, and issued out as the season %ermitted, or %rey in"ited them# 6m%ressed with this idea, we tac ed to wor u% !or the roadD and our %endant and ensign being hoisted, each o! them hung out a small white !lag# 8n a%%roaching, 6 sent lieutenant Flinders in an armed boat, to learn who they wereD and soon a!terward we came to an anchor in 12 !athoms, within mus et shotD ha"ing a s%ring on the cable, and all hands at @uarters# /"ery motion in the whale boat, and in the "essel along&side which she was lying, was closely watched with our glasses, but all seemed to %ass @uietlyD and on the return o! lieutenant Flinders, we learned that they were %rows !rom Macassar, and the siB Malay commanders shortly a!terwards came on board in a canoe# 6t ha%%ened !ortunately that my coo was a Malay, and through his means 6 was able to communicate with them# The chie! o! the siB %rows was a short, elderly man, named APobassooAD he said there were u%on the coast, in di!!erent di"isions, siBty %rows, and that A5allooA was the commander in chie!# These %eo%le were Mahometans, and on loo ing into the launch, eB%ressed great horror to see hogs thereD ne"ertheless they had no objection to %ort wine, and e"en re@uested a bottle to carry away with them at sunset# The weather continued s@ually all night, with !re@uent hea"y rain, and the wind blew strongD but coming o!! the islands, the shi% rode easily# 6n the morning .F)6*A$ 1E F/B);A)$ 1E,23, 6 went on board Pobassoo's "essel, with two o! the gentlemen and my inter%reter, to ma e !urther in@uiriesD and a!terwards the siB chie!s came to the 6n"estigator, and se"eral canoes were along&side !or the %ur%ose o! barter# Be!ore noon, !i"e other %rows steered into the road !rom the 5# G#, anchoring near the !ormer siBD and we had more %eo%le about the shi% than 6 chose to admit on board, !or each o! them wore a short dagger or cress by his side# My %eo%le were under arms, and the guns were eBercised and a shot !ired at the re@uest o! the chie!sD in the e"ening they all retired @uietly, but our guns were e%t ready and hal! the %eo%le at @uarters all night# The weather was "ery rainyD and towards morning .5AT;)*A$ 1I F/B);A)$ 1E,23, much noise was heard amongst the %rows# At daylight they got under sail, and steered through the narrow %assage between 4a%e Gilber!orce and Bromby's 6sles, by which we had comeD and a!terwards directed their course south&eastward into the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# My desire to learn e"ery thing concerning these %eo%le, and the strict loo &out which it had been necessary to ee% u%on them, %re"ented me attending to any other business during their stay# According to Pobassoo, !rom whom my in!ormation was %rinci%ally obtained, siBty %rows belonging to the )ajah o! Boni, and carrying one thousand men, had le!t Macassar

with the north&west monsoon, two months be!ore, u%on an eB%edition to this coastD and the !leet was then lying in di!!erent %laces to the westward, !i"e or siB together, Pobasso's di"ision being the !oremost# These %rows seemed to be about twenty&!i"e tons, and to ha"e twenty or twenty&!i"e men in eachD that o! Pobassoo carried two small brass guns, obtained !rom the *utch, but the others had only mus etsD besides which, e"ery Malay wears a cress or dagger, either secretly or o%enly# 6 in@uired a!ter bows and arrows, and the Ai%%oA %oison, but they had none o! themD and it was with di!!iculty they could understand what was meant by the Ai%%oA# The object o! their eB%edition was a certain marine animal, called Atre%angA# 8! this they ga"e me two dried s%ecimensD and it %ro"ed to be the Abeche&de&merA, or sea cucumber which we had !irst seen on the ree!s o! the /ast 4oast, and had a!terwards hauled on shore so %lenti!ully with the seine, es%ecially in 4aledon Bay# They get the Atre%angA by di"ing, in !rom 2 to E !athoms waterD and where it is abundant, a man will bring u% eight or ten at a time# The mode o! %reser"ing it is this( the animal is s%lit down one side, boiled, and %ressed with a weight o! stonesD then stretched o%en by sli%s o! bamboo, dried in the sun, and a!terwards in smo e, when it is !it to be %ut away in bags, but re@uires !re@uent eB%osure to the sun# A thousand tre%ang ma e a A%icolA, o! about 12M *utch %oundsD and one hundred %icols are a cargo !or a %row# 6t is carried to Timor, and sold to the 4hinese, who meet them thereD and when all the %rows are assembled, the !leet returns to Macassar# By Timor, seemed to be meant Timor&laoetD !or when 6 in@uired concerning the /nglish, *utch, and Portuguese there, Pobassoo new nothing o! them( he had heard o! 4oe%ang, a *utch settlement, but said it was u%on another island# There are two inds o! tre%ang# The blac , called AbaatooA, is sold to the 4hinese !or !orty dollars the %icolD the white, or grey, called A oroA, is worth no more than twenty# The AbaatooA seems to be what we !ound u%on the coral ree!s near the <orthumberland 6slandsD and were a colony established in Broad 5ound or 5hoalwater Bay, it might %erha%s deri"e considerable ad"antage !rom the tre%ang# 6n the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, we did not obser"e any other than the A oroA, or grey slug# Pobassoo had made siB or se"en "oyages !rom Macassar to this coast, within the %receding twenty years, and he was one o! the !irst who cameD but had ne"er seen any shi% here be!ore# This road was the !irst rendeJ"ous !or his di"ision, to ta e in water %re"iously to going into the Gul%h# 8ne o! their %rows had been lost the year be!ore, and much in@uiry was made concerning the %ieces o! wrec we had seenD and a canoe's rudder being %roduced, it was recognised as ha"ing belonged to her# They sometimes had s irmishes with the nati"e inhabitants o! the coastD Pobassoo himsel! had been !ormerly s%eared in the nee, and a man had been slightly wounded since their arri"al in this road( they cautioned us much to beware o! the nati"es#7 .7 A @uestion suggests itsel! here( 4ould the nati"es o! the west side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria ha"e learned the rite o! circumcision !rom these Malay MahometansN From the short %eriod that the latter had !re@uented the coast, and the nature o! the intercourse between the two %eo%le, it seems to me "ery little %robable#3 They had no nowledge o! any /uro%ean settlement in this countryD and on learning the name Port :ac son, the son o! Pobassoo made a memorandum o! it as thus, >!oreign characters?, writing !rom le!t to right# ;ntil this

time, that some nutmegs were shown to them, they did not now o! their being %roduced hereD nor had they e"er met with cocoa nuts, bananas, or other edible !ruits or "egetablesD !ish, and sometimes turtle, being all they %rocured# 6 in@uired i! they new o! any ri"ers or o%enings leading !ar inland, i! they made charts o! what they saw, or used any chartsN To all which Pobassoo answered in the negati"e# There was a ri"er at Timor, into which the shi% could goD and he in!ormed me o! two turtle islands, one o! them not !ar to the north&west o! our situation in the roadD the other would be seen !rom the mast head as we sailed along the shore# 6 could !ind no other nautical instrument amongst them than a "ery small %oc et com%ass, a%%arently o! *utch manu!actureD by this their course is directed at sea, without the aid o! any chart or astronomical obser"ation# They carry a month's water, in joints o! bambooD and their !ood is rice, cocoa nuts, and dried !ish, with a !ew !owls !or the chie!s# The blac AgummotooA ro%e, o! which we had !ound %ieces at 5ir /dward Pellew's Grou%, was in use on board the %rowsD and they said it was made !rom the same %alm whence the sweet syru%, called AgulahA, is obtained# My numberless @uestions were answered %atiently, and with a%%arent sincerityD Pobassoo e"en sto%%ed one day longer at my desire, than he had intended, !or the north&west monsoon, he said, would not blow @uite a month longer, and he was rather late# 6 rewarded his trouble and that o! his com%anions with se"eral %resents, %rinci%ally iron tools, which they seemed anBious to %ossessD and he begged o! me an /nglish jac , which he a!terwards carried at the head o! his s@uadron# 9e also eB%ressed a desire !or a letter, to show to any other shi% he might meetD and 6 accordingly wrote him a note to ca%tain Baudin, whom it seemed %robable he might encounter in the Gul%h, either going or returning# 5o soon as the %rows were gone, the botanical gentlemen and mysel! %roceeded to ma e our eBaminations# The %lace where the shi% was anchored, and which 6 call AMalay )oadA, is !ormed by two islands( one to the 5# G## now named APobassoo's 6slandA, u%on which was a stream o! !resh water behind a beachD the other to the north, named A4otton's 6slandA, a!ter ca%tain 4otton o! the 6ndia directory# The o%ening between them is nearly hal! a mile wideD but the water being shallow, the road is well sheltered on the west side, and the o%%osite main coast lies not !urther o!! to the east than three milesD so that <# /# is the sole @uarter whence much swell can come# 6 landed u%on 4otton's 6slandD and ascending a high cli!! at the south&east end, saw Mount 5aunders and the northernmost Mel"ille 6sle o"er the land o! 4a%e Gilber!orce# 4otton's 6sland eBtends siB or se"en miles to the north# and beyond it, to the north&east, was another large island, which 6 called AGigram'sA, whose south&east %art is also a high cli!!# Further o!! were two small islesD and at a greater distance another, named ATruant 6slandA, !rom its lying away !rom the rest# Pobassoo's 6sland interce%ted my "iew to the 5# G#D but on mo"ing bac to a higher station, two other islands were seen o"er it, close to each otherD to the !urthest and largest 6 ga"e the name o! A6nglisA, and to the nearer that o! ABosan@uetA# 6n the west also, and not more than three miles distant, was an island o! considerable siJe, which was distinguished by the name o! AAstellA# The general trending o! all these islands is nearly <# /# by /#, %arallel with the line o! the main coast and o! Bromby's 6sles# 6n the *utch chart, i! they be mar ed at all, it is as main land, and without distincti"e a%%ellationD 6 ha"e there!ore a%%lied names to each, mostly a!ter gentlemen in the /ast&6ndia directoryD and in com%liment to that res%ectable body o! men, whose liberal attention to this "oyage was use!ul to us and honourable to them,

the whole cluster is named the /<G'659 48MPA<$'5 65'A<*5# Amongst the bearings ta en !rom the south&eastern cli!! o! 4otton's 6sland, the !ollowing were most essential to the sur"ey# 5hi% at anchor, distant 11L- miles, 5# -1 deg# M,' G# Mount Bonner, 5# 21 12 /# Mount 5aunders, north end, 5# -K M2 /# 4a%e Gilber!orce, <# G# cli!!, <# K- 1M /# Bromby's 6sles, the largest, <# ++ deg# 2I' to +I 2I /# Gigram's 6sland, <# -1 -M to 1M -, /# Mo"ed 5# M21L2 deg# G# one&third mile# Furthest %art o! the main land, 5# -I M G# 6nglis' 6sland, <# /# cli!!, 5# M2 2, G# Bosan@uet's 6#, <# G# eBtreme 5# +I M G# The *utch chart contains an island o! great eBtent, lying o!! this %art o! the <orth 4oastD it has no name in The"enot, but in some authors bears that o! Gessel's or GeJel's /ylandt, %robably !rom the "essel which disco"ered Arnhem's 'and in 1+2+D and !rom the south end o! 4otton's 6sland distant land was seen to the <# G, which 6 judged to be a %art o! itD but no bearings could be ta en at this time, !rom the hea"y clouds and rain by which it was obscured# From the 1Ith to the 22nd, the weather was !re@uently rainy, with thunder and lightningD and the wind blew strong in s@ualls, generally between the north and west, and made it unsa!e to mo"e the shi%# *uring these days, the botanical gentlemen o"er&ran the two islands which !orm Malay )oadD and 6 made a boat eBcursion to Astell's, and another to the north end o! 4otton's 6sland, to sound and ta e bearings !or the sur"ey# 6n the latter eBcursion .T;/5*A$ 22 F/B);A)$ 1E,23, three blac children were %ercei"ed on the north&east beachD and on wal ing that way we saw two bar huts, and an elderly man was sitting under a tree, near them# 9e smiled on !inding himsel! disco"ered, and went behind a bush, when a con!used noise was heard o! women and children ma ing o!! into the woodD the man also retreated u% the hill, and our !riendly signs were ine!!ectual to sto% him# 6n one o! the huts was a net bag, containing some %ieces o! gum, bone, and a bro en s%i e nailD and against a neighbouring bush were standing three s%ears, one o! which had a number o! barbs, and had been wrought with some ingenuity# This 6 too awayD but the rest o! the arms, with the utensils and !urniture o! the huts, consisting o! the a!oresaid net bag and a shell to drin out o!, were le!t as we !ound them, with the addition o! a hatchet and %oc et hand erchie!# 4otton's, Pobassoo's, and Astell's 6slands, to which our eBaminations were limited, are moderately high, woody landD they slo%e down nearly to the water on their west sides, but on the east, and more es%ecially the south&east, they %resent stee% cli!!sD and the same con!ormation seemed to %re"ail in the other islands# The stone o! the u%%er %arts is grit or sandstone, o! a close teBtureD but the lower %art o! the cli!!s is argillaceous and strati!ied, s%litting in layers o! di!!erent thic nesses, !rom that o! a shilling to two or three !eetD and the strata di% to the westward, about 1M deg## 8n brea ing some %ieces out o! the cli!!s, 6 !ound them curiously mar ed with the re%resentation o! !lowers and trees, owing, as 6 am told, to manganese or iron ore inserting itsel! %artially into the !issures# The layers are o! a reddish colour, resembling !lat tiles, and might, 6 concei"e, be used as such, almost

without any %re%arationD there are enough o! them to co"er a whole town, and the sand stone at the to% o! the cli!!s is e@ually well calculated !or building the walls o! the houses# The u%%er sur!aces o! these islands are barrenD but in the "allies, down which ran streams o! water at this time, there is a tolerable soil# 8ne o! these "allies, at the south end o! 4otton's 6sland, might be made a delight!ul situation to a college o! mon s, who could bear the heat o! the climate, and were im%enetrable to the stings o! mus etoes# 9ere grew the wild nutmeg, in abundance, the !ig which bears its !ruit on the stem, two s%ecies o! %alm, and a tree whose bar is in common use in the /ast !or ma ing ro%esD besides a "ariety o! others, whose to%s were o"ers%read with cree%ing "ines, !orming a shade to the stream underneath# But this a%%arently delight!ul retreat a!!orded any thing rather than coolness and tran@uillity( the heat was su!!ocating, and the mus etoes admitted not o! a moment's re%ose# ;%on Pobassoo's 6sland, near the stream o! water at the bac o! the beach, Mr# Good, the gardener, %lanted !our o! the cocoa nuts %rocured !rom the MalaysD and also some remnants o! %otatoes which were !ound in the shi%# The AlatitudeA o! Malay )oad, !rom two not "ery satis!actory obser"ations, was 11 deg# M22L-' 5# A'ongitudeA by the sur"ey !rom 4aledon Bay 12+ deg# 2K' /# From obser"ations made on shore in the arti!icial horiJon, the time& ee%er <o# M2, was di!!ering !rom its 4aledon&Bay rate, 1M#-C o! longitude %er day, to the east, but <o# M-2 only I#ECD and when the longitude o! this last is corrected by the %ro%ortion a!terwards !ound necessary, it will agree with the sur"ey to less than hal! a mile# <o obser"ations were ta en !or the A"ariationA o! the com%ass, but 6 judge it to ha"e been about 1 deg# east, when not a!!ected by any local attraction# <ear the north&east end o! 4otton's 6sland, and at the south&west %oint, the "ariation was 2 deg# Amore eastA than u%on the south&east headD as i! the south end o! the island attracted the north %oint, and the north end the south %oint o! the needle# 8n the day o! the new moon, a %articular obser"ation was made u%on the tide in Malay )oadD and it was high water at ten minutes %ast eight in the morning, or nearly Aeight hours and a @uarter a!terA the moon had %assed the lower meridianD and the rise was ten !eet two inches# There were two tides in the dayD but !rom the swinging o! the shi% in the road, it a%%eared that the last o! the ebb, as well as the whole o! the !lood, came !rom the <# /#D an irregularity which might be caused by the shallow %assage between the two islands# G/*</5*A$ 22 F/B);A)$ 1E,2 The weather was still s@ually on the 22rd, but in the a!ternoon became !inerD and at three o'cloc we steered south&westward, between the islands and the main, with a !lood&tide in our !a"our and the whale boat sounding ahead# All the %oints o! the main coast, li e the western sides o! the islands, are low and roc y, and they are bordered with ree!D but we had tolerably good soundings, !rom 2, to K !athoms, in %assing along them at the distance o! a mile# At dus in the e"ening we came to, in M !athoms muddy ground, in a %lace much li e Malay )oadD it is !ormed by

6nglis' and Bosan@uet's 6slands, and eBce%t in a s%ace between them, o! hal! a mile wide, we had land at "arious distances all round# 6nglis' 6sland !orms here a %retty loo ing co"e, in which is a woody islet# 6n the morning .T9;)5*A$ 2- F/B);A)$ 1E,23 6 sounded the co"eD and !inding it to be shallow, went on, accom%anied by the landsca%e %ainter, to ta e bearings !rom the stee% north&east head o! the island# From thence the main coast was "isible !our leagues !urther, eBtending in the same south&western directionD at the end o! it was an island o! considerable ele"ation, which 6 named AMallison's 6slandA, and west o! it another, with land running at the bac # The bearings which most ser"ed to %rolong the sur"ey, were these( Pobassoo's 6#, east cli!!, in a line with Malay )oad, <# MM deg# ,' /# Mo"ed bac 5# M2 deg# G# 1L- mile# Mallison's 6#, stee% south&east head, 5# 2E 2M G# Mallison's 6#, outer o! two roc s on the north&west side, 5# -E -K G# Ge had not brought any %ro"ision in the boatD but 6nglis' 6sland a%%earing to terminate three or !our miles !urther on, 6 ho%ed to ma e the circuit, and reach the shi% to a late dinner# An 6ndian !ollowed along the shore, in"iting us by signs to landD but when the boat's head was turned that way, he retreated into the wood, and we had no time to !ollow, or to wait his %leasure to come downD !or a good deal o! delay had been caused by the tide, and the island was !ound to eBtend se"eral miles !urther than was eB%ected, to another stee% head, !rom which 6 was desirous to obtain a set o! bearings# At !i"e o'cloc , when we reached the head, it rained !ast, which deterred me !rom attem%ting the stee% ascent, and we %ushed onwardD but the island, instead o! terminating here, eBtended !our miles !urther in a west direction, to a low %oint, where sunset and the bad weather obliged us to sto% !or the night# <o wood could be !ound to ma e a !ire, nor had we any tentD and !rom the rain, the cold, and mus etoes, and our want o! dinner, the night %assed uncom!ortably# F)6*A$ 2M F/B);A)$ 1E,2 At day&light, 6 too bearings !rom the low south&west %oint, whilst Bongaree s%eared a !ew !ish# Mallison's 6#, the high south&east head, bore 5# 11 deg# 1,' /# Mallison's 6#, west eBtreme 5# 11 2, G# A %robable island, dist# M miles, 5# -K deg# M,' G# to Gest# The main coast was close at the bac o!, and %erha%s joined the Probable 6slandD and to the south o! it were other lands, a%%arently insulated, between which and Mallison's 6sland was an o%ening o! !our miles wide, which 6 mar ed !or our neBt anchorage# Bongaree was busily em%loyed %re%aring his !ish, when my bearings were concluded# The nati"es o! Port :ac son ha"e a %rejudice against all !ish o! the ray ind, as well as against shar sD and whilst they de"our with eager a"idity the blubber o! a whale or %or%oise, a %iece o! s ate would eBcite disgust# 8ur good natured 6ndian had been ridiculed by the sailors !or this unaccountable whim, but he had not been curedD and it so

ha%%ened, that the !ish he had s%eared this morning were three small rays and a mullet# This last, being the most delicate, he %resented to Mr# Gestall and me, so soon as it was coo edD and then went to saunter by the water side, whilst the boats' crew should coo and eat the rays, although, ha"ing had nothing since the morning be!ore, it may be su%%osed he did not want a%%etite# 6 noticed this in silence till the whole were %re%ared, and then had him called u% to ta e his %ortion o! the mulletD but it was with much di!!iculty that his modesty and !orbearance could be o"ercome, !or these @ualities, so seldom eB%ected in a sa"age, !ormed leading !eatures in the character o! my humble !riend# But there was one o! the sailors also, who %re!erred hunger to ray&eatingO 6t might be su%%osed he had an eye to the mulletD but this was not the case# 9e had been se"en or eight years with me, mostly in <ew 5outh Gales, had learned many o! the nati"e habits, and e"en imbibed this ridiculous notion res%ecting rays and shar sD though he could not allege, as Bongaree did, that Cthey might be "ery good !or white men, but would ill him#C The mullet accordingly underwent a !urther di"isionD and Mr# Gestall and mysel!, ha"ing no %rejudice against rays, made u% our %ro%ortion o! this scanty re%ast !rom one o! them# Ge rowed northward, round the west end o! 6nglis' 6sland, lea"ing a hummoc y isle and a sandy islet to the le!tD but on coming to a low %oint with a small island near it, the ra%idity o! the !lood tide was such, that we could not ma e head way, and were obliged to wait !or high water# 6 too the o%%ortunity to get another set o! bearings, and then !ollowed the eBam%le o! the boat's crew, who, not !inding oysters or any thing to eat, had !allen aslee% on the beach to !orget the want o! !ood# 6t was high water at ele"en o'cloc , and we then %assed between the islet and sandy %oint, and across two rather dee% bights in 6nglis' 6slandD and lea"ing three roc s and as many small islands on the le!t hand, entered the %assage to the west o! the shi%, and got on board at two in the a!ternoon# This island is twel"e miles long, by a "arying breadth o! one to three miles# 6ts cli!!s and %roductions are much the same as those o! 4otton's 6slandD but in the south&eastern %art it is higher, and the siJe and !oliage o! the wood announced more !ertility in the soil# The construction o! my chart, and ta ing bearings !rom the north end o! Bosan@uet's 6sland, occu%ied me the neBt day .5AT;)*A$ 2+ F/B);A)$ 1E,23D astronomical obser"ations were also ta enD and it a%%eared that the cli!!y east end o! Bosan@uet's 6sland, a mile north o! the anchorage, was in 11 deg# MK 1L2' south, and 12+ deg# 1I' east# According to the swinging o! the shi% in the e"enings, the !lood tide ceased to run at eight hours and a hal! a!ter the moon %assed the u%%er meridian, whereas in the mornings it ceased se"en hours and a hal! a!ter the moon %assed belowD whether the same di!!erence too %lace in the times o! high water by the shore, 6 cannot tellD but i! the mean o! the morning's and e"ening's tides be ta en as the time o! high water, it will !ollow Aeight hours a!terA the moon, the same nearly as in Malay )oad# .<8)T9 48A5T# A)<9/M BA$#3 5;<*A$ 2K F/B);A)$ 1E,2 6n the morning o! the 2Kth, we steered south&westward between 6nglis' 6sland and the main, to eB%lore the o%ening on the west side o! Mallison's 6sland# The tide, which was in our !a"our, so stirred u% the

so!t mud, that we did not %ercei"e a shoal until !rom -1L2, the de%th diminished to 21L- !athoms, and the shi% stuc !ast# This was at less than a mile !rom the north&east head o! 6nglis' 6sland, yet the dee%est water lay withinD and towards noon, by carrying out a stream anchor, we got there into 1, !athoms, without ha"ing su!!ered any a%%arent injury# 8n the a%%roach o! low water neBt morning .M8<*A$ 2E F/B);A)$ 1E,23, we resumed our course, ee%ing nearly midway between the main coast and the island, with soundings !rom 12 to K !athoms, muddy groundD the shores are abo"e two miles asunder, but the ree!s !rom each side occu%y more than hal! o! the o%en s%ace# 8n clearing the south end o! the %assage, the boat ahead made signal !or - !athoms, and we tac ed, but a!terwards !ollowed till noonD hea"y rain then came on, and the wind dying away, an anchor was dro%%ed in + !athoms# There was a ri%%ling not !ar !rom the shi%, and the master !ound it to be on a narrow shoal eBtending north and south, which seems to ha"e been !ormed in the eddy o! the tides# Ge got under way, on a breeJe !rom <# G# bringing !iner weatherD and at two o'cloc %assed o"er the shoal with soundings twice in 2 !athoms, and a!terwards in M, K, 1,, 12, and 1-# The bearings ta en in 2 !athoms were, 6nglis' 6sland, north&east head, <# M, deg# /# 6nglis' 6sland, low south&west %oint, <# 1M G# Mallison's 6#, high south&east head, 5# 2 /# At siB o'cloc we entered the o%ening, and steered south&eastward into a "ast %iece o! water where the land could not be seen !rom the mast headD and the soundings were dee%, though irregular, "arying !rom 11 to 22 !athoms# At hal! %ast eight, being well within the o%ening, we tac ed towards Mallison's 6sland, and came to an anchor in 1M !athoms, sand and shells# T;/5*A$ 1 MA)49 1E,2 6n the morning, our distance !rom the south side o! the island was !ound to be something abo"e a mile, and the eBtremes bore <# +- deg# G# to 2I deg# /# 6n going to the shore with a %arty o! the gentlemen 6 carried a good de%th all the way, there being M !athoms within a !ew yards o! a little beach where a stream o! !resh water descended !rom the hills# A !irst "iew o! the cli!!s led me to thin they contained coalsD but this a%%earance arose !rom the colour o! the slate, o! which the lower %arts are com%osed# The to% o! the island is o! sand stone, similar to the /nglish 4om%any's 6slandsD and it seemed to be e@ually, or more barren than they, and to be destitute o! any rich "allies# My bearings were ta en on the south&eastern headD but e"en !rom thence, the land was not "isible to the southward beyond a low islet surrounded with shoals, and to the /# 5# /# it was but !aintly seen# The west side o! the entrance was com%osed o! bro en land, li e islands, eBtending out !ar to the northwardD on the east, the s%ace which se%arated Mallison's 6sland !rom the nearest %art o! the main seemed to be not more than hal! a mile broad, and was so !illed with roc s as scarcely to admit the %assage o! a boat# This %art o! the main land is a %rojecting ca%e, low without side but !orming a stee% head withinD and 6 ha"e named it A4a%e <ewbaldA# The most essential bearings were these(&&

6nglis' 6# station on the north&east head, <# 2I deg# M' /# 6nglis' 6# west eBtreme, <# 1M 1E G# Furthest western land "isible, <# 2+ 1, G# Probable 6sland, low north %oint, <# 2I 2 G# 'ow islet u% the bay, dist# ten miles, 5# K deg# to I 12 /# These bearings and the obser"ations %lace the south&east head o! Mallison's 6sland in 12 deg# 112L-' south, and 12+ deg# E' east# Ge returned on board at ele"en, and then steered eastward along the south side o! 4a%e <ewbaldD the !lood tide, which set in that direction, ha"ing induced the ho%e o! !inding a ri"er there# The wind was light and scant, so that we ad"anced %rinci%ally by means o! the tideD and !inding it to run against us at !i"e in the e"ening, anchored in M !athoms, mud and shells, eight or nine miles abo"e the entrance o! the bay, and one and a hal! !rom a roc y %oint on the 4a%e&<ewbald side# Ge %roceeded with the !lood tide, neBt morning .G/*</5*A$ 2 MA)49 1E,23, in a "arying de%th !rom 2 to M !athomsD and a!ter ad"ancing !our or !i"e miles, it was !ound im%ossible to go !urther without ris o! getting aground, and we there!ore came to an anchor# The land on the east side o! the bay was distant three miles, and no other than a shallow o%ening in the north&east corner could be seenD a disa%%ointment which le!t little to be eB%ected in the southern %arts o! the bay, to which no set o! tide had been %ercei"ed# 6n conse@uence, 6 ga"e u% the intention o! !urther %rosecuting the eBamination in the shi%, in !a"our o! going round in my boatD and directed lieutenant Fowler, so soon as the botanical gentlemen should ha"e eB%lored the %roductions on the nearest %art o! 4a%e <ewbald, to return with the shi% to the entrance o! the bay, and anchor near some low cli!!s on the western side, where the botanists could again %ursue their researches until my arri"al# Mr# Bauer the natural&history %ainter, himsel! a good botanist, eB%ressed a wish to accom%any me, and with Mr# Bell, the surgeon, we went o!! in the a!ternoon, steering 5# 5# /# !or a small beach in the low, woody shore, !i"e or siB miles o!!# 5@ualls o! wind with hea"y rain %re"ented sounding in the !irst hal! o! the wayD but we then had nine !eet, and nearly the same to the beach, where we landed at dus # The wood was "ery thic here, the ground swam%y, and the mus etoes numerous and !ierceD so that between them and our wet clothes we had "ery little rest# T9;)5*A$ 2 MA)49 1E,2 6n the morning, a!ter bearings had been ta en !rom a %rojecting %art o! the ironstone shore, we steered !our miles to the 5# 5# G#, mostly in 2 !athoms, to some low cli!!s o! red earthD where Mr# Bauer eBamined the %roductions o! the main land, whilst 6 too bearings !rom a small islet or ban o! iron ore, lying near it# The shi% at anchor, dist# E or I miles, bore <# 1 deg# 1M' /# Mallison's 6#, south&western cli!!s, <# M, 2M G# 'ow islet in the bay, centre#, 5# EI 2, G# 5eeing that the shore too a western direction about !i"e miles !urther on, we steered !or the low isletD and at a mile !rom the land had 2, and a!terwards M !athoms until a%%roaching a long sandy s%it, which eBtends out !rom the east end o! the islet and was then dry# 6 landed u%on it in

time to obser"e the sun's meridian altitude, which ga"e 12 deg# 22' +C south, but a %assing cloud de%ri"ed me o! the su%%lement# The islet is little else than a bed o! sand, though co"ered with bushes and small treesD there were u%on it many mar s o! turtle and o! turtle !eastsD and !inding the mus etoes less numerous than on the main, we sto%%ed to re%ose during the heat o! the day# 6n the a!ternoon, a!ter ta ing bearings, we steered o"er to the south side o! the bay, !our miles o!!, with soundings !rom K at the dee%est, to 2 !athoms at a mile !rom the iron&stone shore# The land is low and co"ered with wood, and the traces o! angaroo being numerous, the surgeon was induced to ma e a little eBcursion into the wood, whilst 6 too bearings and Mr# Bauer %ursued his botanical researches# Mr# Bell !ound the country to be tolerably !ertile, but had no success in his huntingD and at night we returned to the islet to slee%, ho%ing to %rocure some turtleD but no more than three came on shore, and one only was caught, the laying season a%%earing to be mostly %ast# F)6*A$ - MA)49 1E,2 At daylight we steered !or a low roc y island, se"en or eight miles to the G# <# G#, where 6 too angles !rom the iron&stone roc s at its south end, and Mr# Bauer eBamined the "egetable %roductions# To the 5# 5# G#, about !i"e miles, was a woody %oint, on the east side o! which no land was "isibleD and the de%th o! water in coming across !rom 'ow 6slet ha"ing been as much as 1, !athoms, it le!t a sus%icion that a ri"er might !all into the south&west corner o! the bay, and induced me to row o"er to the %oint# The soundings diminished !rom M to 2 !athomsD in which de%th the boat being brought to a gra%nel, 6 !ound the latitude to be 12 deg# 2,' 2KC, !rom obser"ations to the north and south, and set 'ow 6slet /# K deg# 5# by a %oc et com%ass# From thence to the %oint the water was shallow, and the o%en s%ace %ro"ed to be a shoal bight, with "ery low land at the bac # A!ter 6 had ta en bearings, to ascertain the %osition o! the %oint and !orm this side o! the bay, we returned northward, %assing on the west side o! the roc y islandD and the shi% ha"ing arri"ed at the a%%ointed station, got on board at eight o'cloc in the e"ening# 5AT;)*A$ M MA)49 1E,2 8n laying down the %lan o! this eBtensi"e bay, 6 was somewhat sur%rised to see the great similarity o! its !orm to one mar ed near the same situation in the *utch chart# 6t bears no nameD but as not a doubt remains o! Tasman, or %erha%s some earlier na"igator, ha"ing eB%lored it, 6 ha"e gi"en it the a%%ellation o! the land in which it is situate, and call it A)<9/M BA$# 5o !ar as an eBtent o! secure anchoring ground is concerned, it e@uals any harbour within my nowledgeD there being more than a hundred s@uare miles o! s%ace !it !or the rece%tion o! shi%s, and the bottom seemed to be e"ery where good# 8! the inducements to "isit Arnhem Bay, not much can be said# Good is %lenti!ul at all the shores, and the stream which ran down the hills at Mallison's 6sland would ha"e su%%lied us con"eniently with water, had it been wantedD but in three months a!terwards it would %robably be dried u%# 6n the u%%er %arts o! the bay the shores are low, and o"er&run with mangro"es in many %lacesD but near the entrance they may be a%%roached by a shi%, and there are beaches !or hauling the seine, where, howe"er, we had not much success# Ge saw no other stone on the low shores than iron ore, similar to that

!ound in the u%%er %art o! Mel"ille Bay, and on Point Middle in 4aledon BayD and it seems %robable, that iron runs through the s%ace o! country com%rehended between the heads o! the three bays, although the eBterior shores and the hills be either granitic, argillaceous, or o! sand stone# The !lat country where the iron ore is !ound, seems to a!!ord a good soil, well&clothed with grass and wood, much su%erior to that where granite or sand stone %re"ailsD this 6 judge !rom what was seen near the heads o! the bays, !or our eBcursions inland were necessarily "ery con!ined, and !or mysel!, 6 did not @uit the water side at Arnhem Bay, being disabled by scorbutic ulcers on my !eet# This country does not seem to be much %eo%led, though traces o! men were !ound where"er we landedD in the woods were se"eral s%ecies o! birds, mostly o! the %arrot ind, and the mar s o! angaroo were numerous, as at Mel"ille Bay# These circumstances would be in !a"our o! any colony which might be established in the neighbourhoodD but should such a ste% come to be contem%lated, it would be highly necessary, in the !irst %lace, to see what the country is in the dry season, !rom :une to <o"emberD !or it is to be a%%rehended that the "egetation may then be dried u%, and the sources o! !resh water almost entirely !ail# The middle o! the entrance into Arnhem Bay is in latitude 12 deg# 11' south, and longitude 12+ deg# 2' east# AJimuths ta en on board the shi%, when at anchor in the north&eastern %art o! the bay and the head /# by <#, ga"e , deg# -E' east "ariation, which corrected to the meridian, would be 2 deg# 21' eastD but the most allowed to the bearings on shore is 1 deg# -,', and the least 1 deg#, no greater di!!erence being %roduced by the iron stone u%on which some were ta en# From general obser"ation, the time o! high water was nearly the same as in Malay )oad, or about Aeight hours a!terA the moon's %assage, and the rise seemed to be siB or eight !eet# Be!ore noon o! the Mth we @uitted Arnhem Bay, and steered northward along the chain o! islands eBtending out !rom the west side o! the entrance# 8n a%%roaching the north end o! Probable 6sland the soundings diminished to - !athoms, and a short tac was made to the 5# /#D and the !lood tide becoming too strong to be stemmed with a light breeJe, an anchor was dro%%ed in 1K !athoms, sand and stones# A dry ree! had been set !rom Mallison's 6sland, and should ha"e lain about two miles 5# /# !rom this anchorageD but it was not seen !rom the shi%, being %robably co"ered by the tide# There were two nati"es, with a canoe, under Probable 6sland, and some others were standing on the beachD but no attem%t was made to a%%roach the shi%, nor did 6 send on shore to them# 5;<*A$ + MA)49 1E,2 6n the morning we had a moderate breeJe at /# 5# /#, and %ursued the line o! the main coast and islands to the northward at the distance o! three or !our miles, with soundings !rom 1, to 1K !athoms# Both the coast and islands are in general so low and near to each other, that it was di!!icult to say whether some were not connectedD at ele"en, howe"er, we a%%roached two which certainly were islands, and there being a clear %assage between the surrounding ree!s o! a mile and a hal! wide, we steered through it with 12 to 1K !athoms# The north&easternmost most, which 6 ha"e named a!ter ca%tain A4unninghamA o! the na"y, is !our or !i"e miles in circum!erence, and o! moderate ele"ationD and lies in 11 deg# -K' south and 12+ deg# +' east by the sur"ey# .<8)T9 48A5T# G/55/''5 65'A<*5#3

A third chain o! islands commences here, which, li e Bromby's and the /nglish 4om%any's 6slands, eBtend out north&eastward !rom the coast# 6 ha"e !re@uently obser"ed a great similarity both in the ground %lans and ele"ations o! hills, and o! islands in the "icinity o! each otherD but do not recollect another instance o! such a li eness in the arrangement o! clusters o! islands# This third chain is doubtless what is mar ed in the *utch chart as one long island, and in some charts is called Gessel's /ylandtD which name 6 retain with a slight modi!ication, calling them G/55/''5 65'A<*5# They had been seen !rom the north end o! 4otton's 6sland to reach as !ar as thirty miles out !rom the main coastD but this is not more than hal! their eBtent, i! the *utch chart be at all correct# At noon, when 4unningham's 6sland bore !rom 5# 1 deg# to 2+ deg# /#, at the distance o! two miles, the !urthest "isible %art o! Gessel's 6slands bore <# M2 deg# /#D it was not distant, !or the weather was s@ually with rain, and both %re"ented us !rom seeing !ar and obscured the sun# To the westward, we had land at the distance o! three or !our milesD and !rom its north&east end, which is named APoint *aleA, three small isles with roc s eBtended out to the bearing o! <# 1+ deg# /#, which we could not weather without ma ing a tac # At three they were %assedD and at siB in the e"ening the outer islet bore 5# 1- deg# /#, !our leagues, and the most western %art o! the land o! Point *ale, 5# 2+ deg# G#D but whether this last were an island or a %art o! the main, was still doubt!ul# For the last se"eral days the wind had inclined !rom the eastward, and at this time blew a steady breeJe at /# by 5#, with !ine weatherD as i! the north&west monsoon were %assed, and the south&east trade had resumed its course# Ge had continued the sur"ey o! the coast !or more than one&hal! o! the siB months which the master and car%enter had judged the shi% might run without much ris , %ro"ided she remained in !ine weather and no accident ha%%enedD and the remainder o! the time being not much more than necessary !or us to reach Port :ac son, 6 judged it im%rudent to continue the in"estigation longer# 6n addition to the rottenness o! the shi%, the state o! my own health and that o! the shi%'s com%any were urgent to terminate the eBamination hereD !or nearly all had become debilitated !rom the heat and moisture o! the climate&&!rom being a good deal !atigued&&and !rom the want o! nourishing !ood# 6 was mysel! disabled by scorbutic sores !rom going to the mast head, or ma ing any more eB%editions in boatsD and as the whole o! the sur"eying de%artment rested u%on me, our !urther stay was without one o! its %rinci%al objects# 6t was not, howe"er, without much regret that 6 @uitted the coastD both !rom its numerous harbours and better soil, and its greater %roBimity to our 6ndian %ossessions ha"ing made it become daily more interestingD and also, a!ter struggling three months against !oul winds, !rom their now being !air as could be wished !or %rosecuting the !urther eBamination# The accom%lishment o! the sur"ey was, in !act, an object so near to my heart, that could 6 ha"e !oreseen the train o! ills that were to !ollow the decay o! the 6n"estigator and %re"ent the sur"ey being resumed&&and had my eBistence de%ended u%on the eB%ression o! a wish, 6 do not now that it would ha"e recei"ed utteranceD but 6n!inite Gisdom has, in in!inite mercy, reser"ed the nowledge o! !uturity to itsel!# .<8)T9 48A5T# T8GA)*5 T6M8)#3 >Atlas Plate 6#? 8n @uitting Gessel's 6slands, we steered a north&west course all night, under easy sailD ha"ing a warrant o!!icer %laced at the loo &out, and the lead ho"e e"ery @uarter o! an hour# The soundings increased "ery

gradually till daylight .M8<*A$ K MA)49 1E,23, when we had 2, !athomsD and no land being distinguishable, the course was then altered to G# by 5# 8ur latitude at noon was 1, deg# M+' -,C, longitude by time ee%er 12M deg# 1,'D and 6 judged that %art o! the coast seen by lieutenant Mc4luer, in 1KI1, to lie about !i!ty miles to the southward# This was the !irst land seen by him in his course !rom <ew GuineaD and according to the com%arison a!terwards made o! his longitude, it should not lie more than twel"e leagues !rom the western %art o! Point *ale# Mr# Mc4luer saw some islands near the coast, and amongst others an outer one called <ew $ear's 6sle, in latitude 1, deg# M2' south and 122 deg# 12' east, which 6 %ur%osed to "isit in the ho%e o! %rocuring turtle# But our !riendly trade wind gradually died away, and was succeeded by light airs !rom the <# G# and 5# G#, by calms, and a!terwards by light winds !rom the north&eastwardD so that it was not until daylight o! the 12th .5AT;)*A$ 12 MA)49 1E,23, that the island was seen# At ele"en o'cloc , lieutenant Fowler went on shore to eBamine the beach !or traces o! turtleD but !inding none recent, he returned be!ore two, and we again made sail to the westward# <ew $ear's 6sle is a bed o! sand miBed with bro en coral, thrown u% on a coral ree!# 6t is !our or !i"e miles in circum!erence, and the higher %arts are thic ly co"ered with shrubs and brush woodD but much o! it is o"er&run with mangro"es, and laid under water by the tide# Fresh %rints o! !eet on the sand showed that the nati"es had either "isited it "ery lately, or were then u%on the islandD turtle also had been there, but their traces were o! an old date# The ree! eBtends about a mile o!!, all roundD we had 22 !athoms "ery near the outer edge, and saw no other danger# Bro en land was %ercei"ed to the southward, %robably the inner isles mar ed by lieutenant Mc4luerD and siB or se"en leagues to the 5# G# was a %art o! the main, somewhat higher but e@ually sandy, which we traced abo"e hal! a degree to the westward# 6 made the AlatitudeA o! the island to be 1, deg# MM' south, and AlongitudeA by time ee%er corrected 122 deg# -' eastD being 2' more south and E' less east than Mr# Mc4luer's %osition# The A"ariationA o! the com%ass, !rom aJimuths ta en twenty leagues to the east o! <ew $ear's 6sle, was 1 deg# MM' east, with the shi%'s head G# <# G#D and at thirteen leagues on the west side, 1 deg# 2,' with the head <# G#D these being corrected to the meridian, will be , deg# 22' and , deg# 12' east# The AtideA ran strong to the <# G# whilst it was ebbing by the shore, so that the !lood would seem to come !rom the westwardD whereas in the neighbourhood o! 4a%e Arnhem the !lood came mostly !rom the o%%osite direction( whether this change were a general one, or arose !rom some o%ening to the 5# /# o! <ew $ear's 6sle, our nowledge o! the coast was too im%er!ect to determine# Ge had continued to ha"e soundings, generally on a muddy bottom, !rom the time o! @uitting Gessel's 6slandsD nor did they "ary much, being rarely less than 2M, and ne"er more than 2M !athoms# 8n the 12th .5;<*A$ 12 MA)49 1E,23 at noon we had 2- !athoms, being then in 1, deg# -1' south and 122 deg# -,' east, and the coast still in sight to the southward# The winds then hung in the southern @uarter, being sometimes 5# G#, and at others 5# /#, but always lightD and 6 steered !urther o!! the land, in the ho%e o! getting them more steady# 8ur soundings gradually increased until the 1Eth, when the de%th was 1M, !athoms in latitude I deg# -K' and longitude 12, deg# 1K'D at midnight we had no ground at 1+,, but neBt morning .5AT;)*A$ 1I MA)49 1E,23 the coral bottom was seen under the shi%, and we tac ed until a boat was sent aheadD !rom K !athoms on the ban , the soundings in steering a!ter the boat increased to I, 1,, 12, and suddenly to I2 !athoms#

This small ban a%%eared to be nearly circular, and about !our miles roundD it lies in latitude I deg# M+', longitude 12I deg# 2E' and as 6 judge, about twenty&!i"e leagues !rom the western eBtremity o! the northern Van *iemen's 'and# 6n some o! the old charts there are shoals mar ed to a considerable distance !rom that ca%eD and it seems not im%robable, that a chain o! ree!s may eBtend as !ar out as the situation o! this ban # Ge a!terwards had soundings at irregular de%ths, !rom 2, to 1,, !athoms, until the e"ening o! the 2+th .5AT;)*A$ 2+ MA)49 1E,23, in 1, deg# 2E' south and 12+ deg# 2,' eastD in which situation they were lost# >Atlas, Plate HV6#? The winds had hung so much in the south&west, and retarded our %assage as well as dri"en us near to the island Timor, that 6 judged it ad"isable to obtain re!reshments there !or my shi%'s com%anyD under the a%%rehension that, as the winter season was !ast ad"ancing on the south coast o! Terra Australis, the bad state o! the shi% might cause more labour at the %um%s than our %resent strength was ca%able o! eBerting# 5ome o! the smaller articles o! sea %ro"ision#, such as %eas, rice, and sugar, which !ormed a %rinci%al %art o! our little com!orts, were also become de!icient, in conse@uence o! losses sustained !rom the heat and moisture o! the climate, and lea iness o! the shi%'s u%%er wor sD and these 6 was anBious to re%lenish# 4oe%ang is a *utch settlement at the south&west end o! Timor and the determination to %ut in there being made, 6 re"ol"ed in my mind the %ossibility o! a!terwards returning to the eBamination o! the north and north&west coasts o! Terra Australis, during the winter siB months, and ta ing the !ollowing summer to %ass the higher latitudes and return to Port :ac son# There was little chance o! obtaining salt %ro"isions at 4oe%ang, but there might be a shi% or shi%s there, ca%able o! !urnishing a su%%ly, and by which an o!!icer might be con"eyed to /nglandD !or it was a necessary %art o! my %roject to des%atch lieutenant Fowler to the Admiralty, with an account o! our %roceedings, and a re@uest that he might return as s%eedily as %ossible, with a "essel !it to accom%lish all the objects o! the "oyageD and 6 calculated that siB months em%loyed u%on the <orth and <orth&west 4oasts, and the subse@uent %assage to Port :ac son, would not lea"e much more than the re@uisite time !or re!reshing the shi%'s com%any be!ore his arri"al might be eB%ected# 6t is to be obser"ed, that the shi% had lea ed "ery little in her sides since the caul ing done at the head o! the Gul%hD and the car%enter being now directed to bore into some o! the timbers then eBamined, did not !ind them to ha"e become %erce%tibly worseD so that 6 was led to ho%e and belie"e that the shi% might go through this ser"ice, without much more than common ris , %ro"ided we remained in !ine&weather climates, as was intended# M8<*A$ 2E MA)49 1E,2 8n the 2Eth, being then in 1, deg# 2+' south, and 12M deg# -K' east, the high land o! Timor was seen bearing <# +1 deg# G#, at the distance o! thirty, or %erha%s more leaguesD but no soundings could be obtained with I,, nor in the e"ening with 1+, !athoms# <eBt day .T;/5*A$ 2I MA)49 1E,23, the light south&west wind suddenly "eered to 5# /#, and blew !reshD and !rom its dying away at sunset was e"idently a sea breeJe attracted by the land, which, howe"er, was !orty miles o!! in its nearest %art# 8ur latitude on the 2,th .G/*</5*A$ 2, MA)49 1E,23 was 1, deg# 2K' 12C, longitude 12- deg# 1E1L2', and the land, mostly high mountains, eBtended !rom <# <# /# 1L2 /# to G# <# G#, the nearest %art was distant se"en or eight leagues, but we still had no soundings# The island )ottee is rec oned tolerably high land, but must

be greatly in!erior to TimorD since the round hill at its eastern end was not seen !rom the mast head till !our this a!ternoon, when its distance was little more than !i!teen leagues# Ge carried all sail !or the strait between the two islands till midnight, and then had soundings in 12, !athoms, muddy groundD an hour and a hal! a!terwards the land was close, and the de%th no more than 1, !athoms, u%on which we hauled o!! till morning# T9;)5*A$ 21 MA)49 1E,2 At daylight, the north&east %oint o! )ottee was distant two miles, and we steered along the shore, loo ing !or boats and %eo%le to obtain intelligence, and i! %ossible some re!reshmentsD but none were seen, although we %assed close to a dee% and well&sheltered co"e# At ten o'cloc , when the sandy north %oint o! )ottee was distant one mile and a hal!, we hauled u% north&eastward, across the %assage o! about siB miles wide, between it and the northern landsD !or the %ur%ose o! entering 5amow 5trait, which was then o%en, and o! which Mr# Gestall too the "iew gi"en in the Atlas >Plate HV666, last View?# The south&west %oint o! Timor is surrounded by a ree!, which eBtends !rom hal! a mile to a mile o!!, and runs some distance u% the straitD both sides o! the entrance are low land, yet at ele"en o'cloc we had no ground between them with KM !athoms# The width o! the entrance is three miles and a hal!, and continues nearly the same u%wards, with a de%th o! 2+ or more !athoms, and no dangers in it, other than the ree! be!ore mentioned# From the obser"ations at noon, the eBtreme south&west %oint o! Timor lies in 1, deg# 22' south, and longitude by sur"ey bac !rom 4oe%ang, 122 deg# 2I' eastD ca%tain 4oo %laces it in 1, deg# 22' and 122 deg# MM', and calls it the south %oint, but there is a slo%ing %rojection, three leagues to the eastward, which 6 set in a line with it at /# 2 deg# 5# .<8)T9 48A5T# 48/PA<G BA$#3 Two "essels were lying under the north&east end o! 5amowD and on our ensign and %endant being hoisted, the one showed American, and the other *utch colours# An o!!icer was sent to them !or in!ormation, as well o! the %ro%riety o! going into 4oe%ang Bay at this season, as o! the %olitical state o! /uro%eD !or although the intelligence o! %eace had arri"ed be!ore we le!t Port :ac son, it seemed to be doubt!ul how long it might last# 8n his return with !a"ourable intelligence, 6 steered through the northern outlet o! the strait, which is not more than a mile and a hal! wide, but so dee% that +M !athoms did not reach the bottomD and at !our o'cloc the anchor was let go in 1K !athoms, muddy ground, hal! a mile !rom the shore, with the !lag sta!! o! Fort 4oncordia bearing 5# 5# /# 6 sent the second lieutenant to %resent my res%ects to the *utch go"ernor, and in!orm him o! our arri"al and wants, with an o!!er o! saluting the !ort %ro"ided an e@ual number o! guns should be returnedD and the o!!er being acce%ted, mutual salutes o! thirteen guns %assed, and the same e"ening we recei"ed a boat load o! re!reshments# <eBt day .F)6*A$ 1 AP)6' 1E,23, 6 went with three o!!icers and gentlemen to wait u%on AMynheer GieslerA, the go"ernor, who sent the commandant o! the !ort and surgeon o! the colony to recei"e us at the water side# The go"ernor did not s%ea /nglish, nor 6 any *utchD and our communications would ha"e been embarrassed but !or the %resence o! ca%tain :ohnson, commander o! the *utch brig, who inter%reted with much %olite attention# 4oe%ang is de%endant on Bata"ia !or a "ariety o! articles, and amongst

others, !or arrac , rice, sugar, etc# Mr# :ohnson had arri"ed not long be!ore with the annual su%%ly, yet 6 !ound some di!!iculty in obtaining !rom the go"ernor the com%arati"ely small @uantities o! which we stood in needD and 6 had no resource but in his indness, !or there were no merchants in 4oe%ang, nor any other who would recei"e bills in %ayment# 9a"ing made an agreement !or the %ro"isions, 6 re@uested %ermission !or our botanists and %ainters to range the country, which was readily grantedD with a caution not to eBtend their wal s !ar !rom the town, as they might be there liable to insults !rom the nati"es, o"er whom the go"ernor had no %ower# Ge were occu%ied nearly a wee in com%leting our water, which was brought on board in Malay boats, and in obtaining and stowing away the %ro"isions# .5;<*A$ 2 AP)6' 1E,23 The go"ernor, with ca%tain :ohnson and two other gentlemen were entertained on board the 6n"estigator, and recei"ed under a saluteD and the day be!ore we %ro%osed to sail .T9;)5*A$ K AP)6' 1E,23, 6 went with some o! my %rinci%al o!!icers and gentlemen to dine with the go"ernor, the !ort !iring a salute on our landingD and it is but justice to Mr# Giesler and the orders under which he acted, to say, that he conducted himsel! throughout with that %olite and res%ect!ul attention, which the re%resentati"e o! one !riendly nation owes to that o! another# A %art o! the shi%'s com%any was %ermitted to go on shore so soon as our wor was com%letedD and two men, my Malay coo and a youth !rom Port :ac son, being absent in the e"ening, the town was searched !or them, but in "ain# Ge got under way early neBt morning .F)6*A$ E AP)6' 1E,23, be!ore the sea breeJe set in, and stood o!! and on until lieutenant Fowler again went a!ter the men# 8n his return without success, we stretched out o! the bayD but the wind being light, and the go"ernor ha"ing %romised to send o!! the men, i! !ound be!ore the shi% was out o! sight, 6 still entertained a ho%e o! recei"ing my deserters# Timor is well nown to be one o! the southernmost and largest o! the Molucca 6slands# 6ts eBtent is more considerable than the charts usually re%resent it, being little less than 2M, miles in a north&eastern direction, by !rom thirty to siBty in breadth# The interior %art is a chain o! mountains, some o! which nearly e@ual the %ea o! Teneri!!e in ele"ationD whilst the shores on the south&east side are re%resented to be eBceedingly low, and o"er&run with mangro"es# Gold is said to be contained in the mountains, and to be washed down the streamsD but the nati"es are so jealous o! /uro%eans gaining any nowledge o! it, that at a !ormer %eriod, when !orty men were sent by the *utch to ma e search, they were cut o!!# 6n the "icinity o! 4oe%ang, the u%%er stone is mostly calcareousD but the basis is "ery di!!erent, and a%%eared to me to be argillaceous# The original inhabitants o! Timor, who are blac but whose hair is not woolly, inhabit the mountainous %arts, to which they a%%ear to ha"e been dri"en by the Malays, who are mostly in %ossession o! the sea coast# There were !ormerly se"eral Portuguese establishments on the north side o! the island, o! which *iely and 'e!!low still remainedD but these ha"e all gradually declined, and the go"ernor o! *iely was now said to be the sole white Portuguese resident on the island# The *utch territory at 4oe%ang did not eBtend beyond !our or !i"e miles round Fort 4oncordiaD and the settlement a!!ording no other ad"antage to the 4om%any than that o! ee%ing out other nations, it seemed to be !ollowing, with accelerated ste%s, the ruin o! their a!!airs# *uring the war which terminated in 1E,1, the communication with Bata"ia was interru%ted, and the town ta en

by the /nglish !orcesD an insurrection was raised by the hal!&cast %eo%le, and some o! the troo%s le!t as a garrison were massacred, and the rest abandoned the island# *uring these troubles the town had been set on !ireD and at this time, all the best houses were in ruins# The !ew troo%s e%t by the *utch were mostly Malays, some o! the o!!icers e"en, being mulattosD and the sole %erson amongst them, who had any claim to res%ectability, was a 5wiss who had the command o! Fort 4oncordia, but with no higher ran that that o! serjeant&major# Besides the go"ernor and two or three soldiers, 6 saw only two /uro%ean residents at 4oe%angD one was the surgeon o! whom ca%tain Bligh s%ea s so handsomely in his narrati"e, the other a young gentleman named ViertJen, who had lately arri"ed# 4oe%ang has little other trade than with Bata"ia# 5andel wood, bees&waB, honey, and sla"es, are eB%ortedD and rice, arrac , sugar, tea, co!!ee, beetel nut, and the manu!actures o! 4hina, with some !rom 6ndia and /uro%e, recei"ed in returnD and the duties u%on these were said to su!!ice the eB%ense o! ee%ing u% the establishment# A "essel laden with ammunition, clothing, and other su%%lies !or the troo%s, is annually sent !rom Bata"iaD but what may be called the trade o! 4oe%ang, is mostly carried on by the 4hinese, some o! whom are settled in the town, and ha"e intermiBed with the Malays# 4oe%ang Bay is eB%osed to the westwardD but !rom the beginning o! May to the end o! 8ctober, the anchorage is secureD and there is little to a%%rehend !rom north&west winds a!ter the middle o! March, or be!ore the middle o! <o"emberD but the standing regulations o! the *utch com%any were, that until the !irst o! May their "essels should lie under the north&east end o! Pulo 5amow, about !i"e miles !rom 4oe%angD although Babao )oad on the north side o! the bay, o! which *am%ier s%ea s, was said to be a more secure and con"enient anchorage# The commander o! the American shi% 9unter had gone under 5amow, because he !ound the *utch brig thereD and although assured there was almost nothing to be a%%rehended in the bay, he !eared to come u% till encouraged by our eBam%le# This shi% was u%on a trading s%eculation, and the commander was buying here sandel wood and bees&waB# For the best ind o! wood he %aid twenty dollars %er %icol, !or the in!erior sort thirteen, and se"en dollars !or the re!useD and bees&waB cost him twenty&!i"e dollars# ;%on all these he eB%ected to ma e three hundred %er cent# at 4anton, besides the ad"antage o! %aying !or them with cutlasses, aBes, and other iron tools, at an e@ually great ad"anceD he re%orted, howe"er, that iron was still more "aluable at 5olor, Flores, and the neighbouring islandsD and that su%%lies o! !resh %ro"isions were more %lenti!ul# The usual %ro!its o! trade here, seemed to be cent# %er cent# u%on e"ery eBchangeD and this the commander o! the 9unter %ro%osed to ma e many times o"er, during his "oyage# At 5olor he had bought some sla"es !or two mus ets each, which mus ets he had %urchased at the rate o! 1Es# in 9olland, at the conclusion o! the warD these sla"es were eB%ected to be sold at Bata"ia, !or eighty, or more %robably !or a hundred dollars indi"idually, ma ing about thirty ca%itals o! the !irst %rice o! his mus ets# 6! such ad"antages attend this tra!!ic, humanity must eB%ect no wea struggle to accom%lish its su%%ressionD but what was the result o! this trading "oyageN That the commander and his crew contracted a !e"er at *iely, and nearly the whole died be!ore they reached Bata"ia# 5%anish dollars were rated at Ms# -d# according to the *utch com%any's regulations, but their currency at 4oe%ang was siBty sti"ers or %enceD

whence it arose that to a stranger recei"ing dollars, they would be rec oned at Ms# -d# each, but i! he %aid them it was at Ms# Besides dollars, the current coins were ducatoons, ru%ees, and doits, with some !ew gold ru%ees o! Bata"iaD but the money accounts were usually e%t in riB dollars, an imaginary coin o! -s# 6 made many in@uiries concerning the Malay tre%ang !ishers, whom we had met at the entrance o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, and learned the !ollowing %articulars# The nati"es o! Macassar had been long accustomed to !ish !or the tre%ang amongst the islands in the "icinity o! :a"a, and u%on a dry shoal lying to the south o! )otteeD but about twenty years be!ore, one o! their %rows was dri"en by the north&west monsoon to the coast o! <ew 9olland, and !inding the tre%ang to be abundant, they a!terwards returnedD and had continued to !ish there since that time# The go"ernor was o! o%inion, that the 4hinese did not meet them at Timor&laoet, but at Macassar itsel!, where they are accustomed to trade !or birds nests, tre%ang, shar s !ins, etc#D and it there!ore seems %robable that the %rows rendeJ"ous only at Timor&laoet, on @uitting 4ar%entaria, and then return in a !leet, with their cargoes# The "alue o! the common tre%ang at 4anton, was said to be !orty dollars the %icol, and !or the best, or blac ind, siBtyD which agrees with what 6 had been told in Malay )oad, allowing to the 4hinese the usual %ro!it o! cent# %er cent# !rom Macassar to their own country# About ten days be!ore our arri"al, a homeward&bound shi% !rom 6ndia had touched at 4oe%angD and had we been so !ortunate as to meet with her, it might ha"e enabled me to %ut in eBecution the %lan 6 had !ormed o! sending an o!!icer to /ngland, and returning to the eBamination o! the north and north&west coasts o! Terra Australis# This %lan was now !rustratedD and the sole o%%ortunity o! writing to /uro%e was by ca%tain :ohnson, who eB%ected to sail !or Bata"ia in May, and %romised to !orward our letters !rom thence# 6 committed to his care an account o! our eBaminations and disco"eries u%on the /ast and <orth 4oasts, !or the AdmiraltyD with the re%ort o! the master and car%enter u%on the state o! the shi%, and the in!ormation 6 had obtained o! the tre%ang !ishery# 8ur su%%lies !or the shi%, %rocured at 4oe%ang, were rice, arrac , sugar, and the %alm syru% called AgulahAD with !resh meat, !ruit, and "egetables during our stay, and !or ten days a!terwards# The animal !ood consisted o! young A arabowA, a s%ecies o! bu!!alo, and o! small %igs and idsD the arabow being charged at eight, the %igs at !i"e, and ids at two riB dollars each# Vegetables were dear and not good, and !or many o! the !ruits we were too early in the seasonD but cocoa&nuts, oranges, limes, bananas, and shaddoc s were tolerably %lenti!ul# Tea, sugar candy, and some other articles !or our messes, were %urchased at the little sho%s e%t by the 4hinese&MalaysD and %oultry was obtained along&side by barter# To judge !rom the a%%earance o! those who had resided any length o! time at 4oe%ang, the climate is not goodD !or e"en in com%arison with us, who had su!!ered considerably, they were sic ly loo ing %eo%le# $et they did not themsel"es consider the colony as unhealthy, %robably !rom ma ing their com%arison with Bata"iaD but they s%o e o! *iely, the Portuguese settlement, as "ery bad in this res%ect# 4a%tain Baudin had lost twel"e men !rom dysentery, during his stay at 4oe%ang, and 6 !ound a monument which he had erected to his %rinci%al gardenerD but it was e"en then beginning to decay#

The AlatitudeA o! our anchorage, three&!i!ths o! a mile to the north o! Fort 4oncordia, was 1, deg# E' 2C !rom se"en meridian altitudes o! the sunD but these being all ta en to the north, 6 consider it to be more correctly, 1, deg# E1L2' 5# A'ongitudeA o! the anchorage and !ort, !rom !i!ty !our sets o! lunar distances, o! which the %articulars are gi"en in Table V66# o! the A%%endiB <o# 6#, 122 deg# 2M' -+C /# 'ieutenant Flinders too altitudes !rom the sea horiJon, between A%ril 1 %#m# and E a#m#, !or the rates o! the time ee%ersD the mean o! which, with the errors !rom mean Greenwich time at noon there on the last day o! obser"ation, were as under( /arnshaw's <o# M-2, slow 2h MK' 1-#M+C, and losing 1+#K2C, %er day, /arnshaw's <o# M2,, !ast 1h MK' 1I#2EC, and losing 22#IIC, %er dayD the rate o! <o# M-2 di!!ering only ,#2C !rom that with which we had le!t 4aledon Bay# The longitude gi"en by this time ee%er on A%ril 1, %#m#, with the 4aledon rate, was 122 deg# 2I' E#-C east, or 2' 22C more than the lunarsD and when the 4aledon rate is accelerated, the di!!erence is only 2' 21L2C east# This @uantity, i! the longitudes o! 4aledon and 4oe%ang Bays be correct, is the sum o! the irregularities o! <o# M-2, during the !i!ty&one days between one station and the other# The time ee%er <o# M2, had been let down on the %assage, and its rate being now more than 2C greater than at 4aledon Bay, its longitude was not attended to at this time# 6n laying down the coasts and islands o! Arnhem's 'and, the bearings and obser"ed latitudes were used, with "ery little re!erence to the time ee%ersD but <o# M-2, when corrected, did not di!!er so much !rom the sur"ey as 1' in twenty&!i"e days# The rest o! the trac , !rom Gessel's 6slands to 4oe%ang, is laid down by this time ee%er with the accelerated rate, and the a%%lication o! a %ro%ortional %art o! 2' 21L2C, its irregularity during !i!ty&one days# AVariationA o! the sur"eying com%ass, , deg# -+' west, obser"ed when the shi%'s head was /# 5# /#, or corrected to the meridian, , deg# 2K' eastD but this "ariation seems to a%%ly only to 4oe%ang BayD !or about two degrees to the eastward it was 1 deg# -' west, corrected, and one degree to the south&west it was 1 deg# -1' west# The !lood AtideA comes !rom the southward, through 5amow 5trait, and rises !rom three to nine or ten !eetD high water usually too %lace as the moon %assed under and o"er the meridian, but the winds ma e a great di!!erence both in the time and rise o! the tide# 49APT/) H# *e%arture !rom Timor# 5earch made !or the Trial )oc s# Anchorage in Goose&6sland Bay# 6nterment o! the boatswain, and sic ly state o! the shi%'s com%any# /sca%e !rom the bay, and %assage through Bass' 5trait# Arri"al at Port :ac son# 'osses in men# 5ur"ey and condemnation o! the shi%# Plans !or continuing the sur"eyD

but %re%aration !inally made !or returning to /ngland# 5tate o! the colony at Port :ac son# .F)8M T6M8)# T8GA)*5 4AP/ '//;G6<#3 F)6*A$ E AP)6' 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate HV6#? Ghen we stretched out o! 4oe%ang Bay on the Eth o! A%ril, the wind was light !rom the westwardD in the a!ternoon we tac ed towards Pulo 5amow, ho%ing that a canoe seen under the land might ha"e the two deserters on boardD but this not being the case, they were gi"en u%# At siB in the e"ening, when we stood o!!, the town o! 4oe%ang bore 5# +, deg# /#, siB or se"en miles, and the north %oint o! 5amow distant one mile, with the north&west eBtremity behind it, 5# K, deg# G# 6n this situation the de%th was K- !athoms, and soon a!terwards 12, did not reach the bottom# *uring the night the breeJe "eered to the south and eastward, and in the morning .5AT;)*A$ I AP)6' 1E,23 to north&east, and we coasted along the west side o! 5amow, !our or !i"e miles o!!, without getting soundingsD it is woody, hilly land, but not mountainous, and toward the south end is @uite low# A woody islet, called Tios in the charts, lies o!! the south&west %oint, which is the sole thing li e danger on the west side o! 5amowD but the tides run strong here, and ma e ri%%lings which at !irst alarm, !rom their great resemblance to brea ers# 5;<*A$ 1, AP)6' 1E,2 6t was e"ening on the 1,th be!ore we had any regular windD it then s%rung u% !rom the southward, and at siB, when we made sail, 5amow, north&west %oint, bore <# -E deg# /# Tios, dist# M miles, the south eBtreme, 5# +, /# )ottee, !urthest "isible %arts, 5# M11L2 deg# /# to 1E G# The island 5auw, or 5a"u came in sight to the westward neBt morning .M8<*A$ 11 AP)6' 1E,23, and also a small isle called *ouw or *owa, lying o!! the west end o! )otteeD at noon, when our latitude was 1, deg# 2K' 22C and longitude 122 deg# 2M1L2', 5a"u bore !rom the mast head, <# K+ deg# to EE deg# G# )ottee, !urthest "isible %arts, 5# E- to -M /# *owa, distant ten miles, 5# 2M to 2, /# Ge tried !or soundings with 22, !athoms o! line, without !inding groundD and it should a%%ear that there is no bottom amongst these islands at any reasonable de%th, unless "ery near the shores# The wind was still lightD and on the !ollowing day .T;/5*A$ 12 AP)6' 1E,23 we had rain, thunder, and lightning# 5a"u was seen in a clear inter"al towards e"ening, bearing <# 2 deg# G#, and another %iece o! land, a%%arently Benjoar, was %ercei"ed !rom the mast head to the <# <# G#D this was the last sight we had o! these islands, !or the breeJe !reshened u% !rom the eastward, and at noon neBt day .G/*</5*A$ 12 AP)6' 1E,23 our

latitude was 12 deg# 2,' south# 9a"ing been disa%%ointed in %rocuring salt %ro"isions and the means o! sending an o!!icer to the Admiralty !rom 4oe%ang, 6 had necessarily gi"en u% the %roject o! going bac to the north coast o! Terra AustralisD but since the decay o! the shi% did not a%%ear to ha"e ad"anced so ra%idly as was eB%ected, 6 judged there would not be much haJard in ta ing this o%%ortunity o! eBecuting the article o! my instructions, which directed me Cto eBamine as %articularly as circumstances would allow, the ban which eBtends itsel! !rom the Trial )oc s towards Timor#C >Atlas, Plate 6#? ;%on what authority the ban was thus described, 6 had no in!ormationD but that it did not reach so !ar as either Timor or )ottee, was %ro"ed by our ha"ing %assed the west end o! the latter island and sounded with more than 2,, !athoms without !inding bottom# 6t seemed to me %robable, that i! such a ban eBisted and had any conneBion to the north&east, it was more li ely to be with the 5ahul 5hoal than with TimorD and 6 there!ore steered a course to get u%on the line between the twoD %ro%osing a!terwards to run westward, across the line o! direction !rom the )oc s to Timor, so as in either case to !all in u%on the ban # Ge sounded e"ery two hours, and ho"e to three times a day, to get a greater de%thD and in this way ran 5# G# until the 1+th .5AT;)*A$ 1+ AP)6' 1E,23 at noon, to latitude 1+ deg# 1M' and longitude 11+ deg# -M', without !inding bottom with !rom 1,, to 2-, !athoms o! line# 8ur course was then G# by 5#, sounding in the same manner, until the 21st .T9;)5*A$ 21 AP)6' 1E,23 in the morning, to latitude 1K deg# -M' and longitude 1,K deg# ME', but e@ually without success as to the ban D and 6 then hauled to the wind at 5# /,# in order to ma e the roc s themsel"es# The Trial )oc s obtained their name !rom the /nglish shi% Trial, which was lost u%on them in 1+22D but their eBact situation seemed not to be well nown# Mr# *alrym%le had %ublished a s etch o! them u%on the authority o! a *utch sloo%, a%%arently sent !rom Bata"ia eB%ressly !or their eBaminationD and in this they are described to lie in 1I deg# 2,' south, eighty leagues !rom the coast o! <ew 9ollandD but Arrowsmith in his large chart o! the 5outh 5ea, laid the Trial )oc s down in 2, deg# -,' south, and 1,- deg# 2,' east, or near double the distance !rom the coast# The soundings o! two /ast&6ndiamen near the roc s, gi"en in the 5outh&5ea chart, stam%ed this last %osition with an authority which decided my o%inion in its !a"our, and 6 accordingly steered !or it# *ull weather, with !re@uent hea"y rain, thunder, and lightning, had %re"ailed !rom the time o! lea"ing 4oe%ang, and it %roduced the same e!!ect u%on the health o! the shi%'s com%any as similar weather had be!ore done in the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD !or we had at this time ten men in the sic list with diarrhoea, and many others were slightly a!!ected# 6t seemed %ossible that the change o! !ood, !rom salt %ro"isions to the !resh meat, !ruit, and "egetables o! Timor&&a change by which 6 ho%ed to banish e"ery a%%earance o! scur"y, might ha"e had an in!luence in %roducing the diseaseD and i! so, it was a"oiding 5cylla to !all u%on 4harybdis, and was truly un!ortunate# 5AT;)*A$ 22 AP)6' 1E,2 At noon o! the 22rd, we had reached the latitude 2, deg# M,', and were in longitude 1,M deg# 12' east, without ha"ing had soundings at 1,, !athomsD 6 then steered a west course, lying to !rom eight in the e"ening till daylightD and at the !ollowing noon .5;<*A$ 2- AP)6' 1E,23 we obser"ed in 2, deg# -I' south, and the longitude was 1,2 deg# -I' east# This was more than

hal! a degree to the west o! Mr# Arrowsmith's %osition, and we neither had soundings at 1-, !athoms, nor any thing in sight to beto en the "icinity o! landD 6 there!ore ran <# G# to get somewhat to the north o! the latitude 2, deg# -,', and at dus hauled u% to the wind, as near to east as the shi% could lie, to ma e !urther search in that direction# 8n the 2Mth, some tro%ic birds were seenD and the neBt day .T;/5*A$ 2+ AP)6' 1E,23, when our latitude was 2, deg# 2+' and longitude 1,- deg# MM', there were se"eral birds o! the %etrel ind about the shi%D "ery "ague signs o! land, it is true, but still they ga"e us ho%esD and once we were !lattered with the a%%earance o! brea ers, and bore away !or them, but it was a dece%tion# Ge continued to stretch eastward all the neBt day .G/*</5*A$ 2K AP)6' 1E,23D but the wind ha"ing "eered !rom south to 5# /#, a good deal o! northing was made with itD and ha"ing reached the latitude 1I deg# M2' and longitude 1,+ deg# -1', without !inding bottom, or any more signs o! land, 6 tac ed to the 5# 5# G# and ga"e u% the search# 6t should a%%ear !rom our eBamination, that the Trial )oc s do not lie in the s%ace com%rehended between the latitudes 2, deg# 1M' and 21 deg# south, and the longitudes 1,2 deg# 2M' and 1,+ deg# 2,' east# That they eBist, does not seem to admit o! a doubt, and %robably they will be !ound near the situation assigned to them by the *utch sloo%D but no ban can eBtend in a line !rom thence at all near to Timor# The "ariations o! the com%ass obser"ed during our search !or the Trial )oc s, were 2 deg# west with the head <# G#, M deg# 11' at /# by 5#, and M deg# 2E' at /# 5#/#D and the mean, corrected to the meridian, will be 2 deg# -2' west, in 2, deg# 22' south and 1,- deg# 2,' east longitude# From the 2Kth o! A%ril we steered eight days to the 5# 5# G#, mostly with south&eastern windsD they were sometimes light, but occasionally !resh, and at these times the shi% made !i"e inches o! water in the hour# The diarrhoea on board was gaining ground, notwithstanding all the attention %aid to ee%ing the shi% dry and well aired, and the %eo%le clean and as com!ortable as %ossible# 5ome o! the o!!icers began to !eel its attac D and in order to relie"e them and the %eo%le, now that we had no eB%ectation o! meeting danger, 6 directed the shi%'s com%any to be di"ided into three watches, and %ut the o!!icers to !ourD gi"ing Mr# *enis 'acy, master's mate, the charge o! acting lieutenant in the !ourth watch# T9;)5*A$ M MA$ 1E,2 8n May M, in latitude 2+ deg# 2-' and longitude 1,2 deg# 21', the south&east wind died away, and a breeJe s%rung u% !rom the o%%osite @uarter, which "eered a!terwards to the 5# G#, blowing !resh with s@ually, moist weather# 8ur course was then directed !or 4a%e 'eeuwin, with the wind usually a&beamD the sea being too high !or the shi% to ma e good way any nearer# 6n this %assage we were accom%anied by se"eral %etrels, and amongst them by the albatross, the !irst o! which had been seen in the latitude 22 deg# F)6*A$ 12 MA$ 1E,2 8n the 12th, we had reached the %arallel o! 4a%e 'eeuwin, and were steering /# by 5#, to ma e it# At siB in the e"ening, tried !or soundings with 1E, !athoms, without !inding groundD but a!ter running 5# +K deg# /# twenty&siB miles, we had KM !athoms, !ine white sandD and at daylight .5AT;)*A$ 1- MA$ 1E,23 the land was seen, bearing <# 22 deg# to M2 deg# /# about eight leagues# >Atlas, Plate 66#? The soundings should there!ore seem not to eBtend more than ten or twel"e leagues to the west, or but little

!urther than the land will be "isible in !ine weather# 8ur latitude at noon was 2- deg# -2', and the land o! 4a%e 'eeuwin bore !rom <# 2 deg# to 22 deg# /#D the uncorrected longitude o! the time ee%ers !rom Timor made the ca%e !our or !i"e leagues to the east o! the %osition be!ore ascertained, but when corrected, the di!!erence was too small to be %erce%tible# At siB in the e"ening we had -, !athoms, coral bottom, at se"en leagues !rom Point *'/ntrecasteauBD but the weather was too thic to ta e any bearings which might im%ro"e my !ormer sur"ey# Ge steered along the coast at the distance o! se"en or eight leagues, with a !resh breeJe and a strong current in our !a"ourD and on the neBt day .5;<*A$ 1M MA$ 1E,23 at noon 6 set land, which had the a%%earance o! Bald 9ead, at <# 21 deg# G#, distant about !i"e leagues# Mount Gardner and Bald 6sland were distinguished in the a!ternoonD but the land was "isible at times only, !rom the haJiness o! the weather# .F)8M T6M8)# A)496P/'AG8 8F T9/ )/49/)49/#3 My intention in coming so near the 5outh 4oast, was to s irt along the outer %arts o! the Archi%elago o! the )echerche, which had be!ore been seen im%er!ectlyD and to sto% a day or two in Goose&6sland Bay, !or the %ur%oses o! %rocuring geese !or our sic %eo%le, seal oil !or our lam%s, and a !ew cas s o! salt !rom the la e on Middle 6sland# 6t was night .M8<*A$ 1+ MA$ 1E,23 when we a%%roached the archi%elago, and 6 there!ore steered to ma e Termination 6sland, which is the outermost %artD at !our in the morning o! the 1Kth .T;/5*A$ 1K MA$ 1E,23, it was seen about two leagues to the <# /, and we had +2 !athoms on a bottom o! white sand# Mondrain 6sland was set at daylight, and the %ositions o! many other %laces were either "eri!ied or corrected, during the run to noonD at that time we had -M !athoms, and a ree! was seen which may %robably be that mar ed AVigieA, in the French chart, and is the more dangerous !rom the sea brea ing u%on it only at times# <o obser"ation was obtained !or the latitude, but it should be 2- deg# 12' south, !rom the !ollowing bearings then ta en# Gestern Twin, <# M deg# G# A nearer isle, surrounded with brea ers, <# 2 /# 4a%e Arid, to% o! the mount on it, <# M2 /# Middle 6#, highest to% o! the mount, <# ++1L2 /# *ouglas's 6sles, two a%%earing in one, <# E, /# 9igh brea ers, distant + miles, 5# -2 /# At one o'cloc in steering !or *ouglas's 6sles, a single brea er was seen right ahead o! the shi%, lying siB miles <# /# 1L2 <# o! the !ormer dangerous ree!, and about eight !rom the isles, in a G# by 1L2 5# direction# Ge %assed to the northward o! it, ha"ing no ground at 2M !athomsD and as we a%%roached to do the same by the isles, Mr# 4harles *ouglas, the boatswain, breathed his lastD and 6 a!!iBed his name to the two lum%s o! land, which seemed to o!!er themsel"es as a monument to his memory# Ge hauled u% close along the east side o! Middle 6sland with the wind at westD and at siB in the e"ening anchored in Goose&6sland Bay, in 12 !athoms, !ine sand, one&third o! a mile !rom the middle roc # and nearly in a line between it and the north&east %oint o! Middle 6sland# G/*</5*A$ 1E MA$ 1E,2 6n the morning, a %arty o! men was sent to ill geese and seals u%on the

roc y islets to the eastward, and another u%on Middle 6sland to cut wood and brooms# There was now so much more sur! u%on the shores o! the bay than in :anuary o! the !ormer year, that we could not land at the eastern beach, behind which lies the salt la eD 6 there!ore went with the master to the middle beach, and being scarcely able to get out o! the boat !rom scorbutic sores, sent him to eBamine the la e and ma e choice o! a con"enient %lace !or !illing some cas sD but to my sur%rise he re%orted that no good salt could be %rocured, although it had been so abundant be!ore, that according to the testimony o! all those who saw the la e, it would ha"e !urnished almost any @uantity( this alteration had doubtless been %roduced by the hea"y rains which a%%eared to ha"e lately !allen# 6 caused a hole to be dug in a sandy gully, in order to !ill a !ew cas s o! water, thin ing it %ossible that what we had ta en in at Timor might ha"e been injuriousD but the water was too salt to be drin able, although draining !rom land much abo"e the le"el o! the sea# This may a!!ord some insight into the !ormation o! salt in the la eD and it seems not im%robable, that roc salt may be contained in some %art o! Middle 6sland# Ge remained here three days, cutting wood, boiling down seal oil, and illing geeseD but our success in this last occu%ation was "ery in!erior to what it had been in :anuary 1E,2, no more than twel"e geese being now shot, whereas siBty&!i"e had then been %rocured# Mr# *ouglas was interred u%on Middle 6sland, and an inscri%tion u%on co%%er %laced o"er his gra"eD Gilliam 9illier, one o! my best men, also died o! dysentery and !e"er be!ore @uitting the bay, and the surgeon had !ourteen others in his list, unable to do any duty# At his well&judged suggestion, 6 ordered the cables, which the small siJe o! the shi% had made it necessary to coil between dec s, to be %ut into the holds, our %resent light state %ermitting this to be done on clearing away the em%ty cas sD by this arrangement more room was made !or the messing and slee%ing %lacesD and almost e"ery morning they were washed with boiling water, aired with sto"es, and s%rin led with "inegar, !or the surgeon considered the dysentery on board to be a%%roaching that state when it becomes contagious# 5AT;)*A$ 21 MA$ 1E,2 At daylight o! the 21st, ha"ing a !resh breeJe at <# G#, we %re%ared to de%art, and ho"e shortD but the shi% dri"ing be!ore the sails were loosed, and there being little room astern, a second bower was dro%%ed and a edge anchor carried out# This last not holding a!ter the bowers were weighed, a stream anchor was let goD and be!ore the shi% brought u%, it was again necessary to dro% the best bower# At this time we were not more than a cable's length !rom the roc s o! Middle 6slandD and the shi% being eB%osed to great danger with the least increase o! wind, we got a s%ring on the stream cable and began to hea"e on the best bower# 6n the mean time the shi% dro"e with both anchors ahead, which obliged me, on the instant, to cut both cables, hea"e u%on the s%ring, and run u% the jib and stay&sailsD and my orders being obeyed with an alacrity not to be eBceeded, we ha%%ily cleared the roc s by a !ew !athoms, and at noon made sail to the eastward# This eBam%le %ro"ed the anchorage in the eastern %art o! Goose&6sland Bay to be "ery bad, the sand being so loose as not to hold the shi% with two anchors, though the water was smooth and the wind not more than a double&ree!ed&to%&sail breeJeD yet !urther westward, between Goose 6sland and the west beach, our anchor had held "ery well be!ore# The most secure situation should seem to be o!! the east end o! the middle beach, between

it and the roc , in - or M !athomsD but 6 cannot answer !or the ground there being good, though to all a%%earance it should be the best in the bay# The AlatitudeA obser"ed !rom an arti!icial horiJon on the middle beach was 2- deg# M' 22C southD and the AlongitudeA o! the %lace o! obser"ation, a little east o! that be!ore !iBed by the time ee%ers !rom =ing George's 5ound, >Vol# 6#?, will be 122 deg# I' 2K#+C east# Mr# Flinders too three sets o! altitudes between the 1Eth %#m# and 21st a#m#, !rom which the rates o! the time ee%ers, and their errors !rom Greenwich time at noon there o! the 21st, were !ound to be as underD /arnshaw's <o# M-2, slow 2h 1,' MI#M2C and losing 1I#+2C %er day# /arnshaw's <o# M2,, !ast 1h 21' M-#2EC and losing 2-#,KC %er day# At the !irst obser"ation, the longitudes deduced !rom the 4oe%ang rates were, by <o# M-2&&122 deg# 22' 2K#MC east, <o# M2,&&122 2M 22#M eastD the mean o! which is 1I' M2#-C more than what 6 consider to be the true longitude, but on using rates e@ually accelerated !rom those at 4oe%ang to what were !ound abo"e, the error becomes reduced to 12' 11#+C eastD which is the sum o! the a%%arent irregularity o! the time ee%ers !rom A%ril E to May 1E, or in -,#2 days# The corrections a%%lied to the longitude during the last %assage, are there!ore what arise !rom the e@ual acceleration o! the rates, and !rom the %ro%ortional %art o! the 12' 11#+C o! irregularityD and when thus corrected, the time ee%ers did not a%%ear to di!!er at 4a%e 'eeuwin and Mount Gardner more than 1' !rom the longitude o! the !ormer year# .58;T9 48A5T# T8GA)*5 P8)T :A4=58<3 5AT;)*A$ 21 MA$ 1E,2 8n clearing Goose&6sland Bay we steered eastward, with cloudy weather and a !resh breeJe which "eered to 5# 5# G# A small round island, with two roc s on its north side, was disco"ered in the south&eastern %art o! the archi%elago, and also a ree!D neither o! which 6 had be!ore seen, nor are they noticed by admiral *'/ntrecasteauB# At 2h -,' the !ollowing bearings were ta en( 4a%e Arid, to% o! the mount, <# K-1L2 deg# G# 4a%e Pasley, <# 2+ G# Two south&east isles, 5# 1I G# )ee!, distant - or M miles, 5# 1+ /# 5mall round isle, dist# - or M leagues, <# EE /# Ge %assed within three miles o! the round isle at dus , and saw no other danger near it than the two roc s, which are "ery distinguishableD the weather was s@ually, but as 6 did not eB%ect to meet with any more dangers, we e%t on, steering se"en %oints !rom the wind all night, with the %recaution o! ha"ing a warrant o!!icer at the loo out# 6n the way to Bass' 5trait 6 wished to ha"e com%leted the eBamination o! =angaroo 6sland, and also to run along the s%ace o! main coast, !rom 4a%e <orthumberland to 4a%e 8tway, o! which the bad weather had %re"ented a

sur"ey in the !ormer yearD but the sic ly state o! my %eo%le !rom dysentery and !e"er, as also o! mysel!, did not admit o! doing any thing to cause delay in our arri"al at Port :ac son# M8<*A$ 22 MA$ 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate 666#? 6n the a!ternoon o! the 22rd, being in latitude 2M deg# 1,' and longitude 12E deg# M-', the "ariation was obser"ed with three com%asses to be - deg# ME' west, when the shi%'s head was at magnetic eastD this corrected, will be 1 deg# -+' west, agreeing with the obser"ations on each side o! this longitude in sight o! the coast# 8n the 2+th .T9;)5*A$ 2+ MA$ 1E,23, in 2K deg# M2' south and 12M deg# -E' east, with the head 5# /# by /#, the "ariation was 1 deg# 22' west, or 1 deg# 1K' east correctedD and in the same longitude at the head o! Port 'incoln, we had !ound 1 deg# 2I' east# This day :ames Greenhalgh, sergeant o! marines, died o! the dysenteryD a man whom 6 sincerely regretted, !rom the Jeal and !idelity with which he had constantly !ul!illed the duties o! his situation# The winds continued to blow strong, usually between 5outh and G# 5# G#D but the shi% did not at any time lea more than !i"e inches an hour# 8n the 2Ith .5;<*A$ 2I MA$ 1E,23, when a%%roaching Bass' 5trait, the breeJe died away, and a!ter some hours calm s%rung u% !rom the northwardD neBt day at noon .M8<*A$ 2, MA$ 1E,23, our latitude was -, deg# 2M 1L2', longitude 1-2 deg# E', and we sounded with IE !athoms, no ground >Atlas, Plate V6?# At two o'cloc the south end o! =ing's 6sland was in sightD and at -h -,', when it bore <# M deg# to 2M deg# /, a small island was seen !rom the mast head, bearing /# by 5#, which 6 at !irst judged must be Albatross 6slandD but as no other could be seen more southward, it was %robably the Blac Pyramid o! 9unter's 6sles, disco"ered in the <or!ol sloo%# 6 much wished to !iB its relati"e situation to =ing's 6slandD but night coming on, the bearing o! 5# M deg# G#, in which this %yramidal lum% was set at ten o'cloc with the assistance o! a night glass, was the best %oint o! conneBion to be obtained# The southern eBtremity o! =ing's 6sland lies nearly in -, deg# K' south and 1-2 deg# M2' eastD and by our run !rom -h -,' to ten o'cloc , corrected !or a tide setting to the south&westward, this lum% o! land, which 6 belie"e to ha"e been the Blac Pyramid, will be 2I' or 2,' o! longitude more east( its latitude made in the <or!ol was -, deg# 22' south# The wind blew !resh at north, and the shi% could barely lie a course to clear Albatross 6sland, yet we %assed without seeing it, though there was moonlightD so that su%%osing it was the Blac Pyramid we had set at ten o'cloc , the tide, which 6 calculated to turn about that time, must ha"e run strong to the <# /# 8ur least sounding between =ing's 6sland and 9unter's 6sles was 2E !athoms, on red coral sand, nine or ten miles to the south, as 6 judge, o! )eid's )oc sD but they were not seen, nor ha"e 6 any certain nowledge o! their %osition# They are laid down in the chart %artly !rom the journal o! lieutenant Murray, who saw them in going !rom the Bay o! 5eals to Three&hummoc 6slandD but %rinci%ally !rom a rough s etch o! Mr# Bass, then commander o! the brig Venus, who a%%ears to ha"e seen =ing's 6sland, )eid's )oc s, and the Blac Pyramid, all at the same time# 6t was a great morti!ication to be thus obliged to %ass 9unter's 6sles and the north coast o! Van *iemen's 'and, without correcting their %ositions in longitude !rom the errors which the want o! a time ee%er in the <or!ol had made una"oidableD but when 6 contem%lated eighteen o! my men below, se"eral o! whom were stretched in their hammoc s almost

without ho%e, and re!lected that the li"es o! the rest de%ended u%on our s%eedy arri"al in %ort, e"ery other consideration "anishedD and 6 carried all %ossible sail, day and night, ma ing such obser"ations only as could be done without causing delay# T;/5*A$ 21 MA$ 1E,2 At day brea , land was seen !rom the mast head bearing 5# G# by 5#, %robably Three&hummoc 6slandD and at noon our 'atitude obser"ed was 2I deg# M 1L2' Gilson's Promontory, the 5# G# %art, bore <# 1+ 1L2 /# 4urtis' largest 6sle, the to%, <# M1 /# =ent's Grou% came in sight in the e"eningD and a little be!ore nine o'cloc the centre o! the larger isles was set at <# by /, when the Pyramid was distant !our miles bearing 5# 1L2 G# At ele"en, we %assed su!!iciently near to the new roc , lying !our leagues to the /# 5# /# o! the grou%, to hear the growling o! the sealsD and land, a%%arently the 5isters, was distinguished soon a!terward in the 5# /#, but too im%er!ectly to be nown# A set o! bearings here would ha"e been essentially use!ul in !iBing the relati"e %ositions o! these lands, which remained in some degree doubt!ulD but 6 dared not lose an hour's !air wind to obtain them# T9;)5*A$ 2 :;</ 1E,2 8n the 2nd o! :une we lost :ohn *ra%er, @uarter master, one o! the most orderly men in the shi%D and it seemed to be a !atality, that the dysentery should !all hea"iest on the most "aluable %art o! the crew# The wind had then "eered against us, to the <# /#, as it had done the year be!ore in nearly the same situationD and it should seem that the direction o! the coast in!luences it to blow either !rom <# /# or 5# G# The weather was so haJy, that the hills at the bac o! the 'ong Beach were not seen till the e"ening o! the 2rdD and on the -th .5AT;)*A$ :;</ 1E,23 they were still "isible, about twenty leagues to the <# 21 deg# G# A !air breeJe s%rung u% in the nightD and at noon neBt day, the land !rom 4a%e 9owe northward eBtended !rom 5# +M deg# to <# K2 deg# G#, and a hill which a%%eared to be the highest o! those behind Two&!old Bay, bore G# 1 deg# 5#D our latitude was then 2K deg# 12', and longitude by time ee%ers 1M, deg# --' east# Ge steered a due north course, closing a little in with the landD at sunset .M8<*A$ + :;</ 1E,23 Mount *romedary bore <# -M deg# G#, and at eight neBt morning it was seen bearing 5# 2, deg# G#, at the distance o! twenty leagues, although the weather was haJy >Atlas, Plate V666?# The shore was !i"e miles o!! at noon, when the obser"ed latitude was 2M deg# 1K'D the outer %art o! 4a%e George bearing <# 22 deg# /#, about eight miles, and the Pigeon 9ouse 5# KK deg# G# Ge %assed the ca%e at the distance o! two miles, ha"ing then but light windsD and at dus , Bowen's 6sle in the entrance o! :er"is' Bay was set at <# M1 deg# G# 9at 9ill was abreast o! the shi% at noon neBt dayD but the wind had then "eered to the northward, and we beat u% until the !ollowing noon .G/*</5*A$ E :;</ 1E,23 with little ad"antage, our situation being then in 'atitude obser"ed# 2- deg# 21 2L2'

'ongitude by time ee%ers corrected, 1M1 12 1L2 9at 9ill bore 5# K,1L2 G# 5addle 9ill, on )ed Point, 5# M2 G# Point Bass, 5# 22 G# <orth eBtreme, near 4# 5olander#, <# 2 G# <earest shore, distant E or I miles, <# K2# G# ./A5T 48A5T# P8)T :A4=58<3 Ghilst beating against this !oul wind the dysentery carried o!! another seaman, Thomas 5mith, one o! those obtained !rom go"ernor =ingD and had the wind continued long in the same @uarter, many others must ha"e !ollowed# 9a%%ily it "eered to the southward at midnight, we %assed Botany Bay at three in the morning .T9;)5*A$ I :;</ 1E,23, and at daybrea tac ed between the heads o! Port :ac son, to wor u% !or 5ydney 4o"e# 6 le!t the shi% at noon, abo"e Garden 6sland, and waited u%on 9is /Bcellency go"ernor =ing, to in!orm him o! our arri"al, and concert arrangements !or the rece%tion o! the sic at the colonial hos%ital# 8n the !ollowing day .F)6*A$ 1, :;</ 1E,23 they were %laced under the care o! Thomas :amison, /s@#, %rinci%al surgeon o! the colonyD !rom whom they recei"ed that ind attention and care which their situation demandedD but !our were too much eBhausted, and died in a !ew days# The !irst o! them was Mr# Peter Good, botanical gardener, a Jealous, worthy man, who was regretted by all# 'ieutenant Murray had arri"ed sa!ely with the 'ady <elson, a!ter a somewhat tedious %assage !rom the Barrier )ee!sD he made himsel! an anchor o! hea"y wood on the coast, !or !ear o! accident to his sole remaining bower, but !ortunately had no occasion to use it# Besides the 'ady <elson, we !ound lying in 5ydney 4o"e 9# M# armed "essel Por%oise, the Bridgewater eBtra&6ndiaman, the shi%s 4ato, )olla, and AleBander, and brig <autilus# The Geogra%he and <aturaliste had not sailed !or the 5outh 4oast till some months a!ter 6 le!t Port :ac son to go to the northward, and so late as the end o! *ecember, ca%tain Baudin was lying at =ing's 6sland in Bass' 5traitD it was there!ore not "ery %robable that he should reach the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria by the middle o! February, when 6 had !inished its eBamination, nor e"en at the beginning o! March, when the south&west monsoon would set in against him# Ge !ound also at Port :ac son Mr# :ames 6nman >the %resent %ro!essor o! mathematics at the )oyal <a"al 4ollege, Portsmouth?, whom the Board o! 'ongitude had sent out to join the eB%edition as astronomer, in the %lace o! Mr# 4rosley who had le!t us at the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# To this gentleman's care 6 committed all the larger astronomical instruments, and also the time ee%ers, a!ter obser"ations had been ta en to com%are their longitudes with that o! 4attle Point# The results obtained on the 1,th a#m#, with the Goose&island&Bay rates, were, From <o# M-2, 1M1 deg# 1E' -1C east# From <o# M2,, 1M1 1+ 22 east# 4attle Point ha"ing been settled in 1M1 deg# 11' -IC >see Vol# 6#?, the mean error o! the time ee%ers was M' -2#MC to the eastD and as 6 ha"e no means to !orm an accelerating correction to the Goose&6sland Bay rates, the M' -2#MC o! error has been e@ually a%%ortioned throughout the twenty days between the two stations#

6n order to re&establish the health o! the shi%'s com%any, 6 contracted !or a regular su%%ly o! "egetables and !resh meatD and such was the !a"ourable change in the state o! the colony in one year, that the meat, %or one day and mutton another, was obtained at the a"erage %rice o! 1,d# %er %ound, which be!ore, i! it could ha"e been obtained, would ha"e cost nearly double the sum# 8n my a%%lication to the go"ernor, the commissary was ordered to su%%ly us with two %i%es o! %ort wineD and a %int was gi"en daily to all those on board, as well as on shore, whose debilitated health was judged by the surgeon to re@uire it# The arrangements being made which concerned the health o! the shi%'s com%any, 6 inclosed to the go"ernor the re%ort o! the master and car%enter u%on the state o! the shi% when in the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD and re@uested that he would a%%oint o!!icers to ma e a sur"ey o! her condition# A %lan was ri%%ed o!! all round, a little abo"e the water's edgeD and on the 1-th, the o!!icers a%%ointed by 9is /Bcellency made the sur"ey, and their re%ort was as !ollows( Pursuant to an order !rom 9is /Bcellency Phili% Gidley =ing, es@uire, %rinci%al commander o! 9is Majesty's shi% Bu!!alo# Ge whose names are hereunto subscribed, ha"e been on board 9is Majesty's shi% 6n"estigator, and ta en a strict, care!ul, and minute sur"ey o! her de!ects, the state o! which we !ind to be as !ollows# 8ne %lan immediately abo"e the wales being ri%%ed o!! all round the shi%, we began the eBamination on the larbord side !orwardD and out o! ninety&eight timbers we !ind ele"en to be sound, so !ar as the ri%%ing o!! o! one %lan enables us to see into them, ten o! which are amongst the a!termost timbers# 5iBty&three o! the remaining timbers are so !ar rotten as to ma e it necessary to shi!t themD and the remaining twenty&!our entirely rotten, and these are %rinci%ally in the bow and the middle o! the shi%# 8n the starbord side !orward we ha"e minutely eBamined eighty&nine timbers, out o! which we !ind only !i"e soundD !i!ty&siB are so !ar decayed as to re@uire shi!ting, and the remaining twenty&eight are entirely rotten# The sound timbers are in the a!ter %art o! the shi%, and those totally decayed lie %rinci%ally in the bow# The stemson is so !ar decayed, %rinci%ally in its outer %art, as to ma e it absolutely necessary to be shi!ted# As !ar as we could eBamine under the counter, both %lan and timbers are rotten, and conse@uently necessary to be shi!ted# Ge !ind generally, that the %lan on both sides is so !ar decayed as to re@uire shi!ting, e"en had the timbers been sound# The abo"e being the state o! the 6n"estigator thus !ar, we thin it altogether unnecessary to ma e any !urther eBaminationD being unanimously o! o%inion that she is not worth re%airing in any country, and that it is im%ossible in this country to %ut her in a state !it !or going to sea# And we do !urther declare, that we ha"e ta en this sur"ey with such care and circums%ection, that we are ready, i! re@uired, to ma e oath to the "eracity and im%artiality o! our %roceedings#

Gi"en under our hands on board the said shi% in 5ydney 4o"e, this 1-th :une 1E,2# >5igned? G# 5cott, 4ommander o! 9# M# armed "essel Por%oise# /# 9# Palmer, 4ommander o! the 9on# /ast&6ndia&4om%any's eBtra shi% Bridgewater# Thomas Moore, Master builder to the Territory o! <ew 5outh Gales#

6 went round the shi% with the o!!icers in their eBamination, and was eBcessi"ely sur%rised to see the state o! rottenness in which the timbers were !ound# 6n the starbord bow there were thirteen close together, through any one o! which a cane might ha"e been thrustD and it was on this side that the shi% had made twel"e inches o! water in an hour, in Torres' 5trait, be!ore the !irst eBamination# 6n the %assage along the 5outh 4oast, the strong breeJes were !rom the southward, and the starbord bow being out o! the water, the lea s did not eBceed !i"e inchesD had the wind come !rom the northward, the little eBertion we were then ca%able o! ma ing at the %um%s could hardly ha"e e%t the shi% u%D and a hard gale !rom any @uarter must ha"e sent us to the bottom# The 6n"estigator being thus !ound inca%able o! !urther ser"ice, "arious %lans were suggested, and discussed with the go"ernor, !or %rosecuting the "oyageD but that which alone could be ado%ted without incurring a hea"y eB%ense to go"ernment, was to em%loy the armed "essel Por%oiseD and as this shi% was too small to carry all my com%lement, with the necessary %ro"isions, to %ut the remainder into the 'ady <elson, under the command o! my second lieutenant# Both "essels were at this time re@uired !or a !ew wee s colonial ser"ice to Van *iemen's 'andD and my %eo%le not being in a state to !it out a new shi% immediately, our !inal arrangements were de!erred until their return# 6 too this o%%ortunity o! ma ing an eBcursion to the 9aw esbury settlement, near the !oot o! the bac mountainsD and the !resh air there, with a "egetable diet and medical care, soon made a great alteration in the scorbutic sores which had disabled me !or !our monthsD and in the beginning o! :uly 6 returned to the shi%, nearly reco"ered# The sic in the hos%ital were also con"alescent, and some had @uitted itD but one or two cases still remained doubt!ul# - :;'$ 1E,2 8n the -th, the Por%oise arri"ed !rom Van *iemen's 'and, and 6 re@uested the go"ernor would order her to be sur"eyed, that it might be duly nown whether she were, or could be in a short time made, ca%able o! eBecuting the ser"ice which remained to be done# 6 had heard some re%orts o! her being unsoundD and it seemed worse than !olly to be at the trouble and eB%ense o! !itting out a shi% which, besides causing a re%etition o! the ris we had incurred in the 6n"estigator, might still lea"e the "oyage un!inished# 9is /Bcellency, with that %rom%t Jeal !or 9is Majesty's ser"ice which characterised him, and was eminently shown in e"ery thing wherein my "oyage was concerned, immediately ordered the sur"ey to be madeD and it a%%eared that, besides ha"ing lost %art o! the co%%er which could not be re%laced, the re%airs necessary to ma e her !it !or com%leting what remained o! the "oyage, could not be done in less than twel"e monthsD and e"en then this shi% was, !rom her small siJe and shar%

construction, "ery ill ada%ted to this ser"ice# 8ther arrangements were there!ore suggestedD and 6 recei"ed the !ollowing letter o! %ro%ositions !rom the go"ernor# Go"ernment 9ouse, 5ydney, :uly 1,, 1E,2# 6 inclose the re%ort o! the sur"ey on the Por%oise, and am much concerned that the re%airs and alterations o! that shi% will re @uire so much time to com%lete her !it !or the ser"ice you ha"e to eBecute# This being the case, 6 can see no other alternati"es than the !ollowing( 1# To wait the Por%oise being re%aired and re!itted# 2# To %urchase the )olla, and !it her# 2# To ta e the 'ady <elson and colonial schooner Francis# -# Gait !or the Bu!!alo's return !rom 6ndia, which will be about the neBt :anuaryD or M# )eturn to /ngland and solicit another shi% to com%lete what you ha"e so success!ully begun# 8n the !irst %oint, you will be the best able to determine how !ar it would be ad"isable to wait so long a time !or the Por%oise's re%airs, nor do 6 thin they can be com%leted in a less time here# The builder and your car%enter re%ort to me, that the )olla cannot be %ut into the least con"enient state to recei"e your establishment, stores, and %ro"isions, in less than siB months# 6t must also be considered that she grounded on the Bra e with a !ull cargoD !rom which cause, some de!ects may a%%ear to render her useless in a shorter %eriod than you can !inish your "oyage# Added to which, 6 do not consider mysel! justi!ied in assuming the res%onsibility o! gi"ing '11,MM,# !or little more than the hull, masts, and rigging o! that shi%D nor will the master, as he in!orms me, ta e less# 6! you thin the 'ady <elson and Francis schooner e@ual to eBecute what you ha"e to !inish, they are at your ser"ice# The latter being absent getting coals and cedar, 6 cannot say what state she may be inD although she will re@uire considerable re%airs to ma e her !it !or a long "oyage# The Bu!!alo is now ins%ecting the islands to the eastward o! :a"a, to ascertain whether breeding stoc can be %rocured among them# That ser"ice %er!ormed, she %roceeds to 4alcutta !or a cargo o! cows, and may be eB%ected about :anuary, when she may want some re%airs, and o! course !itting# 6t is my intention, i! you do not !iB on her, to %ro!it by your disco"ery in stoc ing this colony with breeding animals, by the sa!e and eB%editious channel you ha"e o%ened through Torres' 5trait# 6! you do not consider waiting !or the Por%oise's re%airs ad"isable, it is my intention to send her to /ngland by a summer's %assage round 4a%e 9ornD which it is thought she may %er!orm in her %resent state# But should you concei"e it may ultimately !orward the ser"ice you are em%loyed on, to go to /ngland in her, lea"ing this %ort when you judge %ro%er, and ta ing the route most conduci"e to %er!ectioning any %art o! the sur"eys you ha"e commencedD 6 shall direct the commander o! that shi% to recei"e you and as many o! your o!!icers and %eo%le as can be

accommodated, as %assengersD and to !ollow your directions and gi"e you e"ery assistance in e"ery circumstance connected with the eBecution o! the orders you ha"e recei"ed !rom my 'ords 4ommissioners o! the Admiralty# $ou will, 5ir, ha"e the goodness to consider o! the abo"e and whate"er the result o! your deliberation may be, 6 will most cheer!ully gi"e my concurrence and assistanceD nowing that your Jealous %erse"erance in wishing to com%lete the ser"ice you ha"e so bene!icially commenced, could only be im%eded by un!oreseen and distressing circumstancesD but which 6 ho%e, !or the bene!it o! science and na"igation, will only be a tem%orary delay# 6 am, etc# >5igned?, Phili% Gidley =ing#

/ach o! the %lans %ro%osed in the go"ernor's letter were attended with one common disad"antage( a delay in the com%letion o! the sur"eys# Against the last %ro%osition there did not seem to be any other objectionD but the !our !irst included so many more incon"eniences and di!!iculties, either to the "oyage, or to the colony, that 6 saw the necessity o! concurring with the go"ernor's o%inionD notwithstanding the reluctance 6 !elt at returning to /ngland without ha"ing accom%lished the objects !or which the 6n"estigator was !itted out# My election was there!ore made to embar as a %assenger in the Por%oiseD in order to lay my charts and journals be!ore the 'ords 4ommissioners o! the Admiralty, and obtain, i! such should be their %leasure, another shi% to com%lete the eBamination o! Terra Australis# The last ser"ice 6 could render to the colony with the 6n"estigator and my %eo%le, was to lay down an additional %air o! moorings in 5ydney 4o"eD and that done, we le!t the shi% as a storehouse hul on the 21st, and %re%ared !or our "oyage to /ngland# The Por%oise was commanded by Mr# Gilliam 5cott, a senior master in the na"yD but he and the greater %art o! his %eo%le ha"ing eB%ressed a wish to be discharged, it was com%lied withD and the command was gi"en to Mr# Fowler, !irst lieutenant o! the 6n"estigator, and another crew o! thirty&eight men selected !rom the shi%'s com%any# 6n dis%osing o! the other o!!icers and %eo%le their se"eral inclinations were consulted# The surgeon too his %assage in the Bridgewater to 6ndia, the gunner remained charged with the care o! the 6n"estigator's stores, and Mr# /"ans, master's mate, was le!t sic at the hos%italD Messrs# Brown, Bauer, and Allen stayed at Port :ac son to %rosecute their researches in natural history, until my arri"al with another shi%, or until eighteen months should eB%ire without their ha"ing recei"ed intimation that the "oyage was to be continuedD nine men were discharged at their own re@uest, and the twenty&two remaining o!!icers and men, including mysel!, embar ed in the Por%oise as %assengers# 8! the nine con"icts who had been recei"ed into the 6n"estigator, one had diedD another had beha"ed himsel! so im%ro%erly, that 6 could not recommend him to the go"ernorD and the remaining se"en were !ully emanci%ated by 9is /Bcellency !rom their sentence o! trans%ortation, their conduct ha"ing been such throughout, as to recei"e my a%%robation# Four o! these were entered into the com%lement o! the Por%oiseD but 6 am sorry to add, that the subse@uent beha"iour o! two was di!!erent to what

it had been when their liberty was at sta e, and that a third was condemned to the hul s not "ery long a!ter he reached /ngland# Being about to ta e lea"e o! Port :ac son, it might be eB%ected that 6 should gi"e some account o! our colony there, and could this "oyage ha"e a%%eared in due time, a cha%ter would ha"e been de"oted to itD but a much later account being now be!ore the %ublic, dis%enses me !rom s%ea ing o! it in other than a !ew general terms# 6n 1E,2, it was %rogressi"ely ad"ancing towards a state o! inde%endence on the mother country !or !ood and clothingD both the wild and tame cattle had augmented in a %ro%ortion to ma e it %robable that they would, be!ore many years, be "ery abundantD and manu!actures o! woollen, linen, cordage, and leather, with breweries and a %ottery, were commenced# The number o! inhabitants was increasing ra%idlyD and that energetic s%irit o! enter%riJe which characterises Britain's children, seemed to be throwing out "igorous shoots in this new world# The seal !ishery in Bass' 5trait was carried on with ardour&&many boats were em%loyed in catching and %re%aring !ish along the coast&&sloo%s and schooners were u%on the stoc s&&"arious detached settlements were in a course o! establishment, and more in %roject# And all this, with the commerce carried on !rom 5ydney to Parramatta and the "illages at the head o! the %ort, and to those on the ri"ers !alling into Bro en and Botany Bays, made the !ine harbour o! Port :ac son a li"ely scene o! business, highly interesting to the contem%lator o! the rise o! nations# 6n 5ydney and Parramatta, houses o! stone or bric were ta ing %lace o! wood and %lasterD a neat church was built in the latter, and one commenced in the !ormer %laceD whar!s were constructing or re%airing&&a stone bridge o"er the stream which runs through the town o! 5ydney was nearly !inished&&and the whis ey, chariot, and hea"y&laden waggon were seen mo"ing on commodious roads to di!!erent %arts o! the colony# 6n the interior the !orests were gi"ing way be!ore the aBe, and their %laces becoming e"ery year more eBtensi"ely occu%ied by wheat, barley, oats, maiJe, and the "egetables and !ruits o! southern /uro%eD but the !ollowing eBtract !rom the o!!icial returns in 1E,2, the !i!teenth year a!ter the establishment o! the colony, will show its %rogress in a more ostensible manner# 'ands em%loyed by go"ernment, or granted to indi"iduals 12M,-K+ acres# Fuantity cleared o! wood, 1+,+2*itto, sown with wheat, K,11E 'ast ann# increase 2,1+M *itto, sown with barley, maiJe, etc# M,2KI A"erage %roduce o! wheat lands throughout the colony, 1E bushelsLacre# <o# o! horned cattle domesticated, 2,--K 'ast increase <o# o! 5hee%, 11,222 2,+1<o# o! 9ogs, K,EI, 2,EK2 <o# o! 9orses, 2M2 +M MI-

The number o! wild horned cattle was su%%osed to eBceed that o! the tame, and to increase !aster# /uro%eans o! e"ery descri%tion, resident in <ew 5outh Gales, K,128! which were "ictualled by go"ernment, 2,,2+ <umber o! inhabitants at <or!ol 6sland, 1,2,,

Amongst the obstacles which o%%osed themsel"es to the more ra%id ad"ancement o! the colony, the %rinci%al were, the "icious %ro%ensities o! a large %ortion o! the con"icts, a want o! more !re@uent communication with /ngland, and the %rohibition to trading with 6ndia and the western coasts o! 5outh America, in conse@uence o! the /ast&6ndia&4om%any's charter# As these di!!iculties become ob"iated and ca%ital increases, the %rogress o! the colonists will be more ra%idD and i! the resources !rom go"ernment be not withdrawn too early, there is little doubt o! <ew 5outh Gales being one day a !lourishing country, and o! considerable bene!it to the commerce and na"igation o! the %arent state# 49APT/) H6# 8! the winds, currents, and na"igation along the east coast o! Terra Australis, both without and within the tro%icD also on the north coast# *irections !or sailing !rom Port :ac son, through Torres' 5trait, towards 6ndia or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# Ad"antages o! this %assage o"er that round <ew Guinea# ./A5T 48A5T# G6<*5 A<* 4;))/<T5#3 8n com%leting the !irst %ortion o! the "oyage, 6 entered into an eB%lanation o! the winds and currents which had been !ound to %re"ail u%on the south coast o! Terra AustralisD and to obtain greater %ers%icuity and connection, 6 there antici%ated u%on the second %ortion so !ar as those subjects re@uired# This %lan o! assembling at the end o! each boo such general obser"ations u%on the coast immediately be!ore eBamined as could not enter con"eniently into the narrati"e, seeming liable to no material objection, 6 shall !ollow it hereD and conclude this second %art o! the "oyage with a statement o! the winds and currents which a%%ear to %re"ail most generally along the /ast and <orth 4oastsD adding thereto such remar s, more %articularly on Torres' 5trait, as may tend to the sa!ety o! na"igation# This statement will include the in!ormation gained in a subse@uent %assage, !or the reasons which in!luenced me in the !ormer accountD and the reader must not be sur%rised, should he remar herea!ter that 6 did not, in that %assage, !ollow "ery closely the directions here gi"enD !or besides that my in!ormation was then %ossessed only in %art, the directions are intended, not !or "essels see ing dangers, which was %artly my object, but !or those desirous only o! na"igating these distant shores with eB%edition and sa!ety# The /ast 4oast, with res%ect to winds and currents, re@uires a di"ision, the %art beyond the tro%ic o! 4a%ricorn being %laced under di!!erent, and almost o%%osite circumstances, to that within, or close to it# >Atlas, Plate 6#? From 4a%e 9owe, where the 5outh 4oast terminates and the /ast commences, to 5andy 4a%e, within a degree o! the tro%ic, the south&east trade most generally %re"ails in the summer season, !rom the beginning o! 8ctober to the end o! A%rilD and %roduces sea and land breeJes near the shore, with !ine weather# There are howe"er many occasional intermissions, es%ecially in the southern %arts, wherein gales !rom 5outh or 5# G#, and strong breeJes between <orth and <# /#, bring hea"y rain, with thunder and lightningD but these are usually o! short duration# A sultry land wind

!rom the <# G# in the summer, is almost certainly !ollowed by a sudden gust !rom between 5# /# and 5# 5# G#, against which a shi% near the coast should be %articularly guardedD 6 ha"e seen the thermometer descend at Port :ac son, on one o! these occasions, !rom 1,, deg# to +- deg# in less than hal! an hour# 6n the winter season, !rom May to 5e%tember, the western winds are most %re"alent, and generally accom%anied with !ine weatherD the gales then blow !rom the eastward, between north&east and south, and bring rain with themD indeed there is no settled weather in the winter, with any winds !rom the sea, and e"en between north&west and north there is !re@uent rain, though the wind be usually light in those @uarters# 6t is howe"er to be understood, that the sea and land breeJes in the summer are more regular near the tro%icD and that the winter winds %arta e more o! the south&east trade than they do !rom latitude 2, deg# to 4a%e 9owe# 6t is a !act di!!icult to be reconciled, that whilst the most %re"ailing winds blow !rom 5# /# in summer, and 5# G# in winter, u%on this eBtra&tro%ical %art o! the /ast 4oast, the current should almost constantly set to the southD at a rate which sometimes reaches two miles an hour# 6ts greatest strength is eBerted near to the %oints which %roject most beyond the general line o! the coastD but the usual limits o! its !orce may be rec oned at !rom !our, to twenty leagues !rom the land# Further out, there seems to be no constancy in the currentD and close in with the shore, es%ecially in the bights, there is commonly an eddy setting to the northward, !rom a @uarter, to one mile an hour# 6t is in the most southern %arts that the current runs strongest, and towards 4a%e 9owe it ta es a direction to the eastward o! southD whereas in other %laces, it usually !ollows the line o! the coast# This eB%osition o! the winds and currents beyond the tro%ic, %oints out the ad"antage o! ee%ing at not more than three or !our leagues !rom the land, when sailing northward and intending to touch on the coastD but in the winter season this must be done with caution, because gales then o!ten blow !rom the eastward# A marine barometer will here be o! signal ad"antage# 6! the weather be tolerably !ine, and the mercury do not stand abo"e 2, inches, there is no %robability o! dangerD but when the mercury much eBceeds this ele"ation and the weather is becoming thic , a gale is to be a%%rehendedD and a shi% should immediately steer o!!, until it is seen how !ar the wind "eers to blow dead on the coast# Gith res%ect to a rise and !all in the marine barometer, it may be ta en as a general rule u%on this /ast 4oast, that a rise denotes either a !resher wind in the @uarter where it then may be, or that it will "eer more to seawardD and a !all denotes less wind or a breeJe more o!! the landD moreo"er, the mercury rises highest with a south&east, and !alls lowest with a north&west windD and north&east and south&west are %oints o! mean ele"ation# The shelter !or shi%s which may be caught so suddenly as not to be able to clear the land, are these( Two&!old Bay, !or "essels o! !our&hundred tons and underD :er"is and Botany Bays, Port :ac son, and Bro en BayD Port 9unter !or brigs and small cra!tD Port 5te%hensD 5hoal Bay !or "essels not eBceeding !i!ty tonsD Glass&house BayD and lastly 9er"ey's Bay, by going round Brea &sea 5%it# All these %laces will be !ound in Plates V6, V666, 6H, and H# o! the Atlas, with %articular %lans o! the entrances to some o! them# *irections !or Port :ac son, and Botany and Bro en Bays are gi"en by ca%tain 9unter in his "oyageD and they may be !ound in 9orsburgh's A/ast&6ndia *irectoryA, Part 66, %# -+M&-+E# Two&!old Bay is described in the 6ntroduction to this "oyage, and mention

made o! :er"is, 5hoal, Glass&house, and 9er"ey's Bays# A shi% sailing along this coast to the southward, should not, to ha"e the ad"antage o! the current, come nearer than !i"e or siB leagues unless to the %rojecting %ointsD and i! the distance were doubled, so as to ha"e the land just in sight, an ad"antage would be !ound in itD and such an o!!ing ob"iates the danger o! the gales# Ghilst western winds %re"ail on the southern %arts o! the /ast 4oast, the south&east trade blows with most regularity within, and close to the tro%ic, %roducing sea and land breeJes near the shore, and serenity in the atmos%hereD and the !urther we go northward the longer does this !ine weather last, till, near 4a%e $or , it commences with the month o! A%ril, %robably e"en March, and eBtends to the middle or end o! <o"ember# 9ow the winds blow !rom <o"ember to A%ril, 6 ha"e no eB%erienceD but there is great reason to belie"e that they come !rom the northward, and ma e the wet season here, whilst dry weather %re"ails beyond the tro%ic# 6n Broad 5ound and 5hoal&water Bay we had more northern winds than any other, in the month o! 5e%temberD but these a%%eared to be altogether local, caused by the %eculiar !ormation o! the coastD !or they did not bring any rain, though it was e"idently near the end o! the dry season, and we !ound the south&east trade wind be!ore losing sight o! the land# .<8)T9 48A5T# G6<*5 A<* 4;))/<T5#3 The <orth 4oast a%%ears to ha"e the same winds, with a little eBce%tion, as the tro%ical %art o! the /ast 4oast# From March or A%ril to <o"ember, the south&east trade %re"ailsD o!ten "eering, howe"er, to east, and e"en north&east, and %roducing !ine weather, with sea and land breeJes near the shore# At the head o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, the north&west monsoon began to blow at the end o! <o"emberD but !urther westward, at the northern Van *iemen's 'and, 6 a%%rehend it will set in at the beginning o! that month, and continue till near the end o! March# This is the season o! hea"y rains, thunder, and lightning, and should seem, !rom our eB%erience, to be the sic ly time o! the year# 6t is thought to be a general rule, that a monsoon blowing directly in !rom the sea, %roduces rain, and !rom o!! the land, !ine weather, with sea and land breeJesD this 6 !ound eBem%li!ied on the west side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria, where the rainy north&west monsoon, which then came o!! the land, brought !ine weather( the rain came with eastern winds, which set in occasionally and blew strong !or two or three days together# 6t seems e"en %ossible, that what may be the dry season on the <orth 4oast in general, may be the most rainy on the west side o! the Gul%hD but o! this 6 ha"e doubts# According to *am%ier, the winds and seasons on the north&west coast o! Terra Australis are nearly the same as abo"e mentioned u%on the <orth 4oastD but he !ound the sea and land breeJes, during the south&east monsoon, to blow with much greater strength# 6n s%ea ing o! the currents, 6 return to the tro%ical %art o! the /ast 4oast# Githin the Barrier )ee!s, it is not the current, !or there is almost none, but the tides which demand attentionD and these, so !ar as they came under my obser"ation, ha"e been already described, and are mar ed on the charts# At a distance !rom the barrier there is a current o! some strength, at least during the %re"alence o! south&east windsD but instead o! setting southward, as 6 ha"e described it to do !rom 5andy 4a%e to 4a%e 9owe, the current !ollows the direction o! the trade wind,

and sets to the north&west, with some "ariation on either side, at the rate o! hal! a mile, and !rom thence to one mile an hour# This 6 !ound to continue amongst the ree!s o! Torres' 5trait, nearly as !ar as Murray's 6slandsD but !rom thence onward through the strait, its direction in 8ctober was nearly west, something more than hal! a mileD and so continued across the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria to 4a%e Arnhem, with a little inclination toward the south# Along the north coast o! Terra Australis, the current seems to run as the wind blows# 6n March, be!ore the south&east monsoon was regularly set in, 6 !ound no determinate current until the end o! the month, when Timor was in sight, and it then set westward, three @uarters o! a mile an hourD but in the <o"ember !ollowing, 6 carried it all the way !rom 4a%e Arnhem, as ca%tain Bligh had done !rom Torres' 5trait in 5e%tember 1KI2D the rate being !rom hal! a mile to one mile and a @uarter in the hour# The na"igation along the tro%ical %art o! the /ast 4oast, within the Barrier )ee!s, is not li ely to be soon !ollowed, any more than that round the shores o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD nor does much remain to be said u%on them, beyond what will be !ound in this Boo 66, and in the chartsD and in s%ea ing o! the outer na"igation, my remar s will be more %ers%icuous and use!ul i! 6 accom%any a shi% !rom Port :ac son, through Torres' 5traitD %ointing out the courses to be steered, and the %recautions to be ta en !or a"oiding the dangers# 6t is su%%osed that the shi% has a time ee%er, whose rate o! going and error !rom mean Greenwich time ha"e been !ound at 5ydney 4o"e, ta ing its longitude at 1M1 deg# 11' -IC eastD and that the commander is not one who !eels alarm at the mere sight o! brea ers( without a time ee%er 6 scarcely dare recommend a shi% to go through Torres' 5traitD and !rom timidity in the commander, %erha%s more danger is to be antici%ated than !rom rashness# The best season !or sailing is :une or :ulyD and it must not be earlier than March, nor later than the end o! 5e%tember# .<8)T9 48A5T# 5A6'6<G *6)/4T68<5#3 8n @uitting Port :ac son, the course to be steered is <# /# by /# by com%ass, to longitude about 1MM1L2 deg#, when the land will be !i!ty leagues o!!D then <orth, also by com%ass, as !ar as latitude 2- deg## Thus !ar no danger lies in the wayD but there is then the A4ato's Ban A, a dry sand !re@uented by birds and surrounded with a ree! >Atlas, Plate H?, and !urther northward is AGrec )ee!A, both disco"ered in the !uture %art o! this "oyage# Grec )ee! consists o! siB distinct %atches o! coral, eBtending twenty miles east and westD u%on !our o! them there are dry ban s, also !re@uented by birds, and the easternmost ban is co"ered with wiry grass and some shrubs, and is called ABird 6sletA# Their situations are these( 4ato's Ban 22 deg# +' south, 1MM deg# 22' east Bird 6slet 22 111L2 1MM 2K The bearing and distance o! these dangers must be successi"ely wor ed, and a course steered so as to lea"e them hal! a degree to the westwardD but !or !ear o! an error in the time ee%er the latitude 22 deg# 2,' should not be %assed in the night# 6t is better to ma e short tac s till daylight, than to hea"e toD and allowance should be made !or a %robable current o! one mile an hour to the north&west# A good loo out must be constantly e%tD and a con!idential o!!icer should now go to the masthead

e"ery two hours in the day and to the !ore yard at night, to listen as well as loo D !or in dar nights the brea ers may o!ten be heard be!ore they can be seen# 6t will not be amiss, i! the time o! the day be !a"ourable, to ma e Bird 6slet, which is well settled, in order to see how the longitude by time ee%er agreesD and should it err, the di!!erence, or more, must be added to, or subtracted !rom its !uture longitudesD !or it is most %robable that the error will continue to augment the same way, more es%ecially i! the time ee%er be a good one# .T8))/5 5T)A6T# 5A6'6<G *6)/4T68<5#3 >Atlas, Plate 6#? 9a"ing %assed Grec )ee!, there are no other A nownA dangers near the route !or Torres' 5trait, till we come to A*iana's Ban AD but as others may eBist, it will be %rudent to lie to, or %re!erably to ma e short tac s in the night, during the rest o! the %assage to the 5trait# 6n light nights, howe"er, and moderate weather, there would be not much ris in closely !ollowing the 4umberland's trac , carrying no more sail than will allow o! the shi% being con"eniently hauled to the windD but i! an unusual number o! boobies and gannets be seen in the e"ening, there is strong sus%icion o! a ban and ree! being nearD and the direction which the birds ta e, i! they all go one way as is usual in an e"ening, will nearly show its bearing# The longitude o! *iana's Ban , according to M# de Bougain"ille, is 1M1 deg# 1I' !rom GreenwichD but his longitude at the <ew 9ebrides, some days be!ore, was M-' too !ar east, according to ca%tain 4oo D and it is there!ore most %robable, that *iana's Ban lies in 1M deg# -1' south, 1M, deg# 2M' east# 6 should steer, a!ter %assing Grec )ee!, so as to go a !ull degree to the east o! this %ositionD and ha"ing so done, the neBt object o! attention is the /astern Fields, ree!s which lie a degree !rom those where Torres' 5trait may be said to commence# The %osition to be wor ed is, /astern Fields >Atlas, Plate H666?, north&east end, 1, deg# 2' south, 1-M deg# -M' eastD and !rom this 6 would %ass hal! a degree to the eastward# But i! the 5trait should be attem%ted without a time ee%er, it will be ad"isable !or a shi% to ma e that %art o! <ew Guinea lying in about 1, deg# south and 1-K2L- deg# east, which may be seen as !ar as twel"e or !i!teen leagues in clear weatherD and ha"ing corrected the dead&rec oning longitude by this land, to allow a!terwards eighteen miles a day !or a current setting to the G# <# G# The best latitude !or %assing the /astern Fields, is I deg# -M' to M,', steering a G# by 5# course, by com%assD and it will a!terwards be %ro%er, so long as there is daylight and no ree!s seen, to carry all sail !or the Pandora's /ntrance, which is the best o%ening yet nown to the 5trait# 6t is !ormed by ree!s, and is ele"en or twel"e miles wide, and lies, Pandora's /ntrance, the middle, in I deg# M-' 5#, 1-- deg# -2' /# and it is "ery %ossible, i! the /astern Fields be %assed in the morning, to get through without seeing the brea ers, and obtain a sight o! Murray's 6slands be!ore dar # But it is most %robable that ree!s will be !irst met withD and should the latitude o! the shi% be then uncertain, e"en to M', the wind must be hauled until an obser"ation can be had, !or it is by the latitude alone that the !irst ree!s can be distinguished one !rom the other# The ree!s being in sight and the latitude nown, a shi% will steer !or the Pandora's /ntrance, i! she can !etch itD but i! too much to the north, she may %ass round the north end o! Portloc 's )ee!, and haul u% 5# G# !or Murray's 6slands, which are "isible eight or ten leagues !rom the dec in !ine weather# >5ee View <o# 1, in Plate HV666# o! the Atlas#?

6t is best to a%%roach these islands !rom the <# /# by <#, !ollowing the 6n"estigator's trac , and to anchor the !irst night on the north side o! the largest island, or otherwise under the ree!s which lie to the north&eastD but i! neither can be reached be!ore dar , haul to the wind and ma e short tri%s till daylight, in the s%ace between these ree!s and Portloc 's )ee!# Murray's 6slands should not be %assed, or @uitted i! the shi% ha"e anchored there, later than ten or ele"en o'cloc in the morningD because the sun will be getting ahead and obscure the sight be!ore another good anchorage can be secured# 8n %assing the islands, ee% the ree! which lies !i"e miles to the north about a mile on the starbord hand, steering G# 1L2 5# by com%ass, with a boat aheadD !or in this %art there are many tide ri%%lings scarcely to be distinguished !rom the ree!s# 9a"ing %assed the ri%%lings, haul a %oint more to the southwardD and a!ter ha"ing run eight or ten miles, !rom the time that the largest island bore south, there will be "ery !ew ree!s to the northward, and *arnley's 6sland will be seen# 8n the larbord hand there will be a great mass o! ree!s( and these it is necessary to !ollow at the distance o! two or three miles, steering mostly G# 5# G#, and gradually more southward as they are !ound to trend# 5ome small %atches will occasionally be met withD but ha"ing the boat to go ahead, and the commander, or a care!ul o!!icer loo ing out alo!t, the 6n"estigator's trac between them may be sa!ely !ollowed# The leading mar in all this %art o! the course, is the line o! the great south&eastern ree!sD and the situation o! the shi% may be nown at any time, by laying down cross bearings o! Murray's and *arnley's 6slands on the chart, allowing, i! the shi%'s head be westward and the com%ass on the to% o! the binnacle, M deg# o! east "ariation# 5e"eral low, woody isles will come in sight ahead, or on the starbord bowD and be!ore reaching the end o! the south&eastern ree!s, A9ay&way 6slandA, which is the southernmost o! them, will be seen to the southwestD and here 6 would recommend the shi% to anchor !or the night# 6! this island can be %assed, howe"er, be!ore three in the a!ternoon, and the sun do not obscure the sight, she may %ush on south&westward till an hour be!ore sunsetD and anchor under the lee o! any o! those sand ban s which lie in the route, the ground being better here than in the eastern %art o! the 5trait# From 9al!&way 6sland, continue to !ollow the 6n"estigator's trac , steering 5# G# to 5# G# by G# by com%ass, as the small ree!s and ban s will allowD and here there is no necessity !or a boat to be e%t ahead# The !lat to% o! one o! the $or 6sles, called Mount Adol%hus by ca%tain Bligh, will be the !irst high land seen, and a!terwards Mount /rnestD the cross bearings o! which will show the situation on the chart, until the *ouble 6sle, which ma es as two small hummoc s, comes in sight# 5teer then !or *ouble 6sle, %ass on the north side, and haul south&westward !or Gednesday 6sland, which will be three leagues distant# Pass it also on the north side, about one mile, and the same by 9ammond's 6sland, which lies neBt to it# There will be an eBtensi"e ree! on the starbord hand, but the smallest distance between it and the islands is abo"e two milesD and a G# 5# G# course by com%ass, will lead !air through the %assage, with soundings !rom I to + !athoms# Booby 6sle will %resently be seen a&head, a%%earing at !irst li e a white sand ban D it may be %assed within a mile or two on either side, and is the last o! the dangers, i! it can be classed under them, o! Torres' 5trait# A shi% should a!terwards steer, by com%ass, G# by 5# thirty or !orty milesD and the course may then be directed !or any %art o! the world#

6n case the a%%roach o! night, or any other circumstance should ma e it desirable, shelter may be had under the Prince o! Gales' 6slands, or under Booby 6sleD and i! a boat be sent on shore at dus to Booby 6sle, many birds, and %erha%s some turtle' may be %rocured# This %assage through Torres' 5trait will occu%y !rom three to !i"e days, according to the !reshness o! the south&east trade, and the degree o! caution which a commander may see necessary to em%loy#7 9e will, o! course, sound continually, though it ha"e not been s%eci!iedD and ee% a boat ahead with sounding signals, !rom the time o! %assing Murray's 6sles till 9al!&way 6sland is in sight, and where"er else there a%%ears to him a necessity# 5hould he miss the 6n"estigator's trac in any %art, which is "ery %ossible, there is no occasion !or alarmD most, i! not all the inner ree!s ha"e dee% channels through them at e"ery !our or !i"e miles, and by these he may regain the trac , with the assistance o! his boat# .7 The most eB%editious %assage nown to ha"e been made through the 5trait, %re"iously to the 6n"estigator, was that o! ca%tains Bligh and Portloc , in nineteen daysD the account o! which, as also, that o! Messrs# Bam%ton and Alt in the 6ntroduction, a commander should %re"iously read with the chart be!ore himD and i! he do the same with the %assage o! the 6n"estigator, in 4ha%ter V# o! this Boo 66#, and that o! the 4umberland in 4ha%ter 666# !ollowing, he will ha"e a tolerably correct notion o! the dangers in Torres' 5trait, and o! the ad"antage in %ursuing the route abo"e described#3 The !ollowing %recautions must not be neglected( a strict and constant loo &out at the mast head, by the commander or his most con!idential o!!icer, all the time that the shi% is amongst the ree!s&&not to %ass Murray's 6slands without seeing them, since they are the leading mar !or getting into the %ro%er trac &&and on anchoring there, or at any other inhabited island, a strict watch must be e%t on the nati"es, who will come o!! in canoes to barter a !ew cocoa&nuts, %lantains, and their arms, !or hatchets and other iron ware# <o boat should be sent to an island where there are inhabitantsD but i! distress ma e it necessary, two or three should go together, well armedD !or they will certainly be attac ed, i! the 6ndians ha"e been able to lay a %lan and collect their strength# A British seaman will, at the same time, studiously a"oid all cause o! @uarrel with these %oor misguided %eo%le, and not !ire u%on them but where sel!&de!ence ma es it indis%ensable# Most o! the dry sands and the uninhabited islands in the 5trait a%%ear to be !re@uented by turtleD and in the month o! August, 5e%tember, or later, it is %robable some might be ta en by landing a %arty o! men, who should silently watch !or their coming on shore at dus # 6 do not now the ind o! turtle most common in the 5traitD at Booby 6sle they were haw es&bill, which !urnish the !inest tortoise shell, but are small and not the best !or !ood# The ad"antage in %oint o! time, which this route %resents to a shi% bound !rom the Great 8cean to 6ndia, or to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, will be best seen by a statement o! two %assages made at the same seasonD the one by Torres' 5trait, the other round <ew Guinea# 6 sailed !rom Port :ac son in com%any with the Bridgewater, an eBtra /ast&6ndiamanD and we made Grec )ee! in eight days# From thence the Bridgewater steered round 'ouisiade, through Bougain"ille's 5trait, *am%ier's 5trait, Pitt's Passage, and the 5trait o! 5alayerD and arri"ed at Bata"ia in Aeighty&eight daysA# 6 le!t Grec )ee! some time a!terward,

in a small schooner o! twenty&nine tonsD too ten days to reach Torres' 5trait, three to %ass through it, se"enteen to reach 4oe%ang Bay, and ten more to %ass the longitude o! :a"a 9ead# Adding to these the eight days to Grec )ee!, the %assage !rom Port :ac son to :a"a 9ead was A!orty&eight daysA, including "arious de"iations and sto%%ages !or sur"eyingD and it was %rinci%ally made in a "essel which sailed no more than !our or !i"e nots, when the Bridgewater would ha"e gone siB or eight# The di!!erence, ne"ertheless, in !a"our o! Torres' 5trait, was !orty daysD so that it seems within bounds to say, that in going !rom Port :ac son to 6ndia or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, it o!!ers an ad"antage o"er the northern route o! siB wee sD and o! !our wee s in going !rom the more eastern %arts o! the Great 8cean# 6n %oint o! sa!ety, 6 now not whether Torres' 5trait ha"e not also the ad"antageD !or although it be certainly more dangerous than any one o! the eastern %assages, it is doubt!ul whether it be more so than a !our or siB wee s eBtra na"igation amongst the straits and islands to the east and north o! <ew Guinea, where some new shoal, ban , or island is disco"ered by e"ery "essel going that way# For mysel!, 6 should not hesitate to %re!er Torres' 5trait, were it only on this accountD considering the long continuance o! the danger in one case, as being more than a counterbalance to the su%erior degree o! it in the other# Gith res%ect to a %assage through Torres' 5trait in the o%%osite direction&&!rom the 6ndian 5ea to the Great 8cean&&it has not, to my nowledge, been attem%tedD and 6 ha"e some doubt o! its %racticability# A shi% would ha"e an ad"antage in entering the strait by its least dangerous sideD but as the %assage could be made only in *ecember, :anuary, or February, the rainy s@ually weather which %robably will then %re"ail, would augment the danger !rom the ree!s ten !old# The eB%eriment is there!ore too haJardous !or any eBce%t a shi% on disco"eryD whose business it is to encounter, and e"en to see danger, when it may %roduce any im%ortant bene!it to geogra%hy and na"igation# B88= 666# 844;))/<4/5 F)8M T9/ T6M/ 8F F;6TT6<G P8)T :A4=58<, 6< 1E,2, A))6V6<G 6< /<G'A<* 6< 1E1,# 49APT/) 6# *e%arture !rom Port :ac son in the Por%oise, accom%anied by the Bridgewater and 4ato# The 4ato's Ban # 5hi%wrec o! the Por%oise and 4ato in the night# The crews get on a sand ban D where they are le!t by the Bridgewater# Pro"isions sa"ed# )egulations on the ban # Measures ado%ted !or getting bac to Port :ac son# *escri%tion o! Grec &)ee! Ban # )emar s on the loss o! M# de 'a Perouse# ./A5T 48A5T# P8)T :A4=58<3 1E,2 The third "olume o! my log boo and journal ha"ing been lost in the e"ents which succeeded the decay o! the 6n"estigator, 6 ha"e had recourse to a memorandum boo and to o!!icers journals to su%%ly the dates and leading !acts contained in the !irst three cha%ters !ollowingD

!ortunately, my bearings and the astronomical obser"ations ta en by lieutenant Flinders and mysel! were %reser"ed, as also were the rough charts, with one eBce%tionD so that there are !ew cases where this de%artment o! the "oyage will ha"e materially su!!ered# There are, howe"er, many circumstances related in these cha%ters, which either do not enter at all, or are slightly mentioned in the o!!icers journalsD !or these, my %ublic %a%ers and co%ies o! letters ha"e %rinci%ally !urnished materials, and a tolerably !aith!ul memory has su%%lied the rest# 6t seemed necessary to eB%lain this, that the reader may now to what the de!iciencies and abridgments in some %arts o! these cha%ters are to be attributedD and this being %remised, 6 resume the narrati"e o! our %re%arations !or returning to /ngland# 2, :;'$ 1E,2 8n :uly 2,, lieutenant Fowler @uitted the 6n"estigator, with the crew selected !or him, and too the command o! 9is Majesty's armed "essel APor%oiseAD and on the !ollowing day 6 went on board with the rest o! my o!!icers and %eo%le, to go with him as %assengers# Amongst other %re%arations !or the "oyage, a green house was set u% on the @uarter dec o! that shi%D and the %lants collected in the 6n"estigator !rom the south, the east, and north coasts o! Terra Australis were de%osited in it, to be con"eyed to 9is Majesty's botanical garden at =ewD and as we had had the mis!ortune to lose the gardener o! the eB%edition, and Mr# Brown, the naturalist, remained behind, a man !rom Port :ac son was engaged to ta e care o! the %lants during the %assage# The eBamination o! Torres' 5trait was one o! the most im%ortant articles o! my instructions which had been eBecuted only in %artD and although 6 could not %retend to ma e any regular sur"ey in the Por%oise, it was yet desirable to %ass again through the strait, and lay down as many more o! its dangers as circumstances would admitD and this being re%resented to go"ernor =ing, the !ollowing %aragra%h was made an article in lieutenant Fowler's orders# CThe objects which ca%tain Flinders will ha"e to !inish in his route through Torres' 5trait, re@uires that he should be assisted with boats, %eo%le, and ha"e the entire direction o! the shi% as to the courses she is to steer, ma ing and shortening sail, anchoring, and e"ery other %rom%t attention to his directions as connected with his sur"ey# $ou are there!ore !urther re@uired to com%ly with e"ery direction he may gi"e you, to enable him to eBecute the orders o! my 'ords 4ommissioners o! the AdmiraltyD and as it will be necessary that the most eB%editious route should be !ollowed, !or the %ur%ose o! ascertaining the length o! time it will ta e to ma e the "oyage !rom hence to /ngland, by Torres' 5trait, and to enable ca%tain Flinders to be in /ngland as early as %ossible, you will ta e es%ecial care to lose no time in getting to /ngland by the route ca%tain Flinders may indicate#C A;G;5T 1E,2 6n the beginning o! August, the Por%oise was nearly ready to sailD and two shi%s then lying in 5ydney 4o"e, bound to Bata"ia, desired lea"e to accom%any us through the 5trait# These were the 9on# /ast&6ndia&4om%any's eBtra&shi% Bridgewater, o! about KM, tons, commanded by /# 9# Palmer, /s@#, and the shi% 4ato o! 'ondon, o! about -M, tons, commanded by Mr# :ohn Par # The com%any o! these shi%s ga"e me %leasureD !or i! we should be able to ma e a sa!e and eB%editious %assage through the strait with

them, o! which 6 had but little doubt, it would be a mani!est %roo! o! the ad"antage o! the route disco"ered in the 6n"estigator, and tend to bring it into general use# 8n the 1,th .G/*</5*A$ 1, A;G;5T 1E,23 6 too lea"e o! my res%ected !riend the go"ernor o! <ew 5outh Gales, and recei"ed his des%atches !or /nglandD and lieutenant Fowler ha"ing gi"en a small code o! signals to the Bridgewater and 4ato, we sailed out o! Port :ac son together, at ele"en o'cloc o! the same morning, and steered north&eastward !or Torres' 5trait# Mr# 6nman had re&deli"ered to me the two time& ee%ers, with a table o! their rates deduced !rom e@ual altitudes, but the <o# M-2 had gone so "ery irregularly, as not to be entitled to any con!idenceD the error o! <o# M2, !rom mean Greenwich time at noon there on the 2nd, and its rate o! going during the twenty&!i"e %receding days were as under( /arnshaw's <o# M2,, !ast, ,h -I' M-#EMC and losing 22#2EC %er day# ./A5T 48A5T# 5T//)6<G <8)T9GA)*#3 >Atlas, Plate 6#? The winds were light, and mostly !rom the eastward during the !irst two days o! our @uitting Port :ac sonD and not being able to get !ar enough !rom the land to a"oid the southern current, it had retarded us 2M' on the 12th at noon .F)6*A$ 12 A;G;5T 1E,23, when the islands o! Port 5te%hens were in sight# 8n the !ollowing day the wind became more steady in the south&western @uarter, and as our distance !rom the land increased, the current abatedD and on the 1Mth, when the latitude was 2K deg# 2K', longitude 1M+ deg# 22', and distance !rom the coast about !i!ty leagues, the set was something in our !a"our# The wind was then at south, and our course steered was north !or twenty&!our hours, then <# by G#D and on the 1Kth at noon .G/*</5*A$ 1K A;G;5T 1E,23 we were in latitude 22 deg# 22', longitude 1MM deg# 2-', and had the wind at 5# /# by 5# >Atlas, Plate H#? 5oon a!ter two o'cloc , the 4ato being some distance on our larbord @uarter made the signal !or seeing land# This %ro"ed to be a dry sand ban , which bore 5# 5# G# about three leaguesD and the Por%oise sailing !aster than the other shi%s, they were directed to ee% on their course whilst we hauled u% to ta e a nearer "iew o! the ban # At three o'cloc , when it bore 5# by /# !i"e or siB miles, we ho"e to and sounded but had no bottom at E, !athoms# The A4ato's Ban A, !or so it was named, is small and seemed to be destitute o! "egetationD there was an innumerable @uantity o! birds ho"ering about, and it was surrounded with brea ersD but their eBtent seemed "ery little to eBceed that o! the ban , nor could any other ree! near it be disco"ered# The situation was ascertained to be nearly 22 deg# +' south, and 1MM deg# 22' eastD and we then made sail a!ter the Bridgewater and 4ato, to ta e our station ahead o! them as be!ore# 5ome a%%rehensions were eBcited !or the !ollowing night by meeting with this ban but as it was more than two degrees to the eastward o! the great Barrier )ee!s, we thought it unconnected with any other, li e the two disco"ered by ca%tain Ball and Mr# Bam%ton, !urther towards the north end o! <ew 4aledonia# 6 had, besides, steered !or Torres' 5trait in the 6n"estigator, !rom ree!s se"eral degrees to the westward, without meeting with any other danger than what lay near the Barrier or belonged to the 5traitD and by the time we had rejoined the shi%s in the e"ening, the distance run !rom the ban was thirty&!i"e miles, and no other danger had been descried# 6t did not there!ore seem necessary to lose a good night's run by hea"ing toD and 6 agreed with lieutenant Fowler, that it would be

su!!icient to ma e the signal !or the shi%s to run under easy, wor ing sail during the night&&to ta e our usual station ahead&&and to charge one o! the 6n"estigator's warrant o!!icers with the loo &out on the !ore castle# These %recautions being ta en, and the to% sails double ree!ed, our course was %ursued to the <# by G#, with a !resh breeJe and cloudy weatherD and at eight o'cloc the lead was cast, but no bottom !ound at EM !athoms# The Bridgewater was then about hal! a mile on the starbord, and the 4ato a mile on the larbord @uarterD and their distance seeming to increase at nine, when our rate o! going was eight nots, the !ore sail was hauled u% to ee% them in sight( wind then at 5# /# by /# ./A5T 48A5T# G)/4= )//F#3 6n hal! an hour, and almost at the same instant by the 6n"estigator's car%enter on the !ore castle, and the master who had charge o! the watch on the @uarter dec &&brea ers were seen ahead# The helm was immediately %ut down, with the intention o! tac ing !rom themD but the Por%oise ha"ing only three double&ree!ed to% sails set, scarcely came u% to the wind# 'ieutenant Fowler s%rang u%on dec , on hearing the noiseD but su%%osing it to be occasioned by carrying away the tiller ro%e, a circumstance which had o!ten occurred in the 6n"estigator, and ha"ing no orders to gi"e, 6 remained some minutes longer, con"ersing with the gentlemen in the gun room# 8n going u%, 6 !ound the sails sha ing in the wind, and the shi% in the act o! %aying o!!D at the same time there were "ery high brea ers at not a @uarter o! a cable's length to leeward# 6n about a minute, the shi% was carried amongst the brea ersD and stri ing u%on a coral ree!, too a !ear!ul heel o"er on her larbord beam ends, her head being north&eastward# A gun was attem%ted to be !ired, to warn the other "essels o! the dangerD but owing to the "iolent motion and the hea"y sur!s !lying o"er, this could not be done immediatelyD and be!ore lights were brought u%, the Bridgewater and 4ato had hauled to the wind across each other# 8ur !ore mast was carried away at the second or third shoc D and the bottom was %resently re%orted to be sto"e in, and the hold !ull o! water# Ghen the sur!s %ermitted us to loo to windward, the Bridgewater and 4ato were %ercei"ed at not more than a cable's length distanceD and a%%roaching each other so closely, that their running aboard seemed to us ine"itable# This was an awe!ul momentD the utmost silence %re"ailedD and when the bows o! the two shi%s went to meet, e"en res%iration seemed to be sus%ended# The shi%s ad"anced, and we eB%ected to hear the dread!ul crashD but %resently they o%ened o!! !rom each other, ha"ing %assed side by side without touchingD the 4ato steering to the north&east, and the Bridgewater to the southward# 8ur own sa!ety seemed to ha"e no other de%endence than u%on the two shi%s, and the eBultation we !elt at seeing this most imminent danger %assed, was great, but o! short durationD the 4ato struc u%on the ree! about two cables length !rom the Por%oise, we saw her !all o"er on her broad side, and the masts almost instantly disa%%earedD but the dar ness o! the night did not admit o! distinguishing, at that distance, what !urther might ha"e ha%%ened# Turning our eyes toward the Bridgewater, a light was %ercei"ed at her mast head, by which we new she had cleared the ree!D and our !irst sensations were, that the commander would certainly tac , and send boats to our assistanceD but when a little re!leBion had enabled us to %ut oursel"es in his %lace, it became e"ident that he would not choose to come so near the ree! in the night, blowing !resh as it didD and still less to send his boats and %eo%le into the brea ers, to their certain destruction#

The Por%oise had "ery !ortunately heeled towards the ree! so that the sur!s which struc against her turned&u% side, !lew o"er without washing any thing o!! the dec sD and the smooth a%%earance o! the water under the lee, a!!orded a %ros%ect o! being able to get the boats out on that side# The eB%eriment was tried with a small !our&oared gig, and succeededD but a siB&oared cutter was jer ed against the sheet anchor by the "iolence o! the shoc s, and being sto"e, was !illed with water# 6t was by no means certain how long the shi%, being slightly built and not in a sound state, might hold togetherD it was there!ore deemed eB%edient to lighten her, that she might dri"e !urther u% the coral ban and lie more easily# 8n sounding, the de%th was !ound to be 1K !athoms on the windward side, but no more than a !ew !eet on the ree!D and Mr# Fowler ordered the main and miJen masts, and the starbord anchor to be cut awayD but on my suggesting to him the %ossibility o! dri"ing o"er the ree!, with the rise o! tide, and sin ing in dee% water as the Pandora had done, the lightening o! the shi% was not %rosecuted !urther# Beyond the smooth water close under the lee, there was a line o! brea ers, and !urther on the sea a%%eared to be tran@uilD it there!ore seemed %robable that boats might a%%roach the shi% on that side, and i! this in!ormation could be con"eyed to ca%tain Palmer o! the Bridgewater, that something might be s%eedily done towards sa"ing the crewD and as it was li ely that my in!luence with him might be greatest, and being a %assenger in the Por%oise no charge made my %resence on board immediately necessary, 6 %ro%osed to ma e the attem%t in the gig, to which Mr# Fowler assented# The boat being obliged to lie at a little distance !rom the shi%, to %re"ent being sto"e, 6 jum%ed o"er&board and swam to herD and we %ushed through the brea ers to the smooth water, recei"ing two or three sur!s by the way, !rom which we hardly esca%ed sin ing# 8n eBamining into the condition o! the boat, 6 !ound nothing to bale out the water, and only two oars which did not belong to itD and instead o! the %ro%er crew o! !our men, there were only threeD but under the thwarts were stowed away three others, the armourer, a coo , and a marine, who did not now how to handle an oar# These last were set to baling with their hats and shoes, and we rowed towards the Bridgewater's light, ee%ing under the lee o! the brea ers# That shi% was standing !rom us, and 6 saw that any attem%t to get nearer be!ore she tac ed would be !ruitlessD and e"en a!terwards, it was much to be doubted whether, with two aw ward oars and an o"erloaded boat, we could ma e any way against the sea on the windward side o! the ree!D 6 there!ore determined to remain under the lee o! the brea ers until she should a%%roach, and to lie near the Por%oiseD that in case o! her going to %ieces be!ore morning, we might sa"e some o! the %eo%le# 6n rowing bac we met the cutter, which the men in her, ha"ing got the lea %artly sto%%ed, had %ushed o!! without an o!!icer, and were going they scarcely new whitherD they !urnished us with a third oar, and 6 desired them to ee% close to the gig, near the wrec , until morning# Ge !ound the bottom here to be coral roc , and the water so shallow, that a man might stand u% in many %laces without being o"er head# 6 wished to ha"e got on board the shi%, to let them now o! the boats being sa!e and what we had disco"ered o! the ree!D but the brea ers between us, and the dar ness o! the night cut o!! all ho%e o! communication be!ore morning# They burned blue lights e"ery hal! hour, as a guide to the BridgewaterD but her light was lost to us in the boats at ele"en o'cloc , and a!ter two in the morning .T9;)5*A$ 1E A;G;5T 1E,23 it was no longer seen !rom the Por%oise# At that time it a%%eared to be low water, and the shi% lay so much more @uiet than be!ore, that the

a%%rehension o! her going to %ieces be!ore daylight had much subsidedD to be %re%ared, howe"er, !or the neBt !lood, Mr# Fowler em%loyed his %eo%le during the night in ma ing a ra!t o! the s%are to% masts, yards, etc#, with short ro%es all round it, by which the %eo%le might hold onD and a cas o! water, with a chest containing some %ro"isions, a seBtant, and the 6n"estigator's log boo s, were secured u%on the ra!t# 6n the small gig we were @uite drenched, the south&east wind blew !resh and cold#, and the re!leBions eBcited by the great change so suddenly made in our situation# with the uncertainty o! what had be!allen the 4ato and e"en the Bridgewater, did not tend to ma e this long night %ass more agreeably# My thoughts were %rinci%ally occu%ied in de"ising %lans !or sa"ing oursel"es, under the a%%rehension that we might see no more o! the BridgewaterD but not to discourage the %eo%le, 6 s%o e o! e"ery body getting on board that shi% in the morning, and o! continuing our "oyage to /ngland, as not at all doubt!ul# 8! the %oor 4ato, we could neither see nor hear any thing# 6t a%%eared that ca%tain Par , when meeting the Bridgewater on o%%osite tac s, sto%%ed setting his main sail and bore away to leeward had he %erse"ered, both shi%s must ha"e come u%on the ree! togetherD but by his %resence o! mind on this occasion, the Bridgewater weathered the brea ers and esca%ed the im%ending danger# Ghen the 4ato struc the ree!, it was u%on the %oint o! a roc , under the larbord chess treeD and she !ell o"er to windward, with her dec s eB%osed to the wa"es# 6n a short time the dec s and holds were torn u%, and e"ery thing washed awayD and the sole %lace le!t, where the un!ortunate %eo%le could ho%e to a"oid the !ury o! the sea, was in the larbord !ore channel, where they all crowded together, the greater %art with no other co"ering than their shirts# /"ery time the sea struc the 4ato, it twisted her about u%on the roc with such "iolent jer s, that they eB%ected the stern, which was down in the water, would %art e"ery moment# 6n this situation, some lashing themsel"es to the timber heads, others clinging to the chain %lates and dead eyes, and to each other, ca%tain Par and his crew %assed the nightD their ho%e being, that the !ore castle o! the shi% might hold u%on the roc till morning, and that the Bridgewater would then send her boats to sa"e them# From the Por%oise they entertained no ho%eD and until the signal lights were seen, they thought her gone to %ieces# At the !irst dawning o! day, 6 got on board the Por%oise by the hel% o! the !allen masts# /"ery body was in good s%irits at seeing the shi% hold together so well, and !inding the boats sa!eD !or the gig, with all in her, had been gi"en u% !or lost, some one ha"ing thought he saw her sin in the brea ers# Gith the daylight a%%eared a dry sand ban , not more than hal! a mile distant, su!!iciently large to recei"e us all with what %ro"isions might be got out o! the shi%D and the satis!action arising !rom this disco"ery was increased by the Bridgewater being %ercei"ed under sail, and though distant, that she was standing towards the ree!# 8n the other side, the a%%earance o! the %oor 4ato, with the %eo%le wa"ing to us !rom the bows%rit and !ore castle, the only %arts abo"e water, was truly distressing# The ree! seemed to be a mile in breadth, and it eBtended in an east and west direction to a distance beyond what could be distinguished !rom the Por%oise's dec D but there were in it se"eral wide, and a%%arently dee% o%enings, by which the Bridgewater might run to leeward, and there anchor or lie to, whilst sending her boats to our assistance# 9a"ing made these remar s, 6 le!t Mr# Fowler and his %eo%le getting u% water and %ro"isionsD and went to the ban !or the %ur%ose o! being ready to go o!!

in the gig so soon as that shi% should be near enough, and %ointing out to ca%tain Palmer the means by which he might ta e on board the two crews and what else might be sa"edD but he went u%on the other tac soon a!terward, and no more was seen o! him during the day# A number o! sea&birds eggs scattered o"er the ban , showed that it was abo"e high&water mar , and 6 sent the gig bac with this intelligence to lieutenant Fowler# 5eeing that the Bridgewater did not a%%roach, he ordered the boat to lie o%%osite to the 4atoD and ca%tain Par and his men, throwing themsel"es into the water with any %ieces o! s%ar or %lan they could !ind, swam to her through the brea ersD and were then ta en to the Por%oise where they recei"ed !ood and some clothing# 5e"eral were bruised against the coral roc s, and three young lads were drowned# 8ne o! these %oor boys, who, in the three or !our "oyages he had made to sea, had been each time shi%wrec ed, had bewailed himsel! through the night as the %ersecuted :onas who carried mis!ortune where"er he went# 9e launched himsel! u%on a bro en s%ar with his ca%tainD but ha"ing lost his hold in the brea ers, was not seen a!terwards# At low water, which ha%%ened about two o'cloc , the ree! was dry "ery near to the Por%oise, and both o!!icers and men were assiduously em%loyed in getting u%on it %ro"isions and their clothesD they were brought !rom thence by the boats, !or the de%th was se"eral !eet at a distance round the ban # Be!ore dar , !i"e hal! hogsheads o! water, some !lour, salt meat, rice, and s%irits were landed, with such o! the %igs and shee% as had esca%ed drowningD and e"ery man !rom both shi%s had got on shore# 5ome o! the 4ato's sailors a%%eared in o!!icers uni!orms, gi"en to them in the Por%oiseD and 6 was %leased to see that our situation was not thought so bad by the %eo%le, as to hinder all %leasantry u%on these %romotions# Those who had sa"ed great coats or blan ets shared with the less !ortunate, and we laid down to slee% on the sand in tolerable tran@uillity, being much o%%ressed with !atigueD and eBce%t !rom those o! the 4ato's men who had been bruised or cut by the roc s, there was not a com%laining "oice heard on the ban # The Por%oise's two cutters and the gig were hauled u% to high&water mar D but the latter not ha"ing been well secured, and the night tide rising higher than was eB%ected, it was carried away, to our great loss# 6n the morning .F)6*A$ 1I A;G;5T 1E,23, we had the satis!action to see the shi% still entire, and thrown higher u% the ree!D the 4ato had gone to %ieces, and all that remained was one o! the @uarters, which had !loated o"er the !ront ledge o! the ree!, and lodged near our ban # 8! the Bridgewater nothing could be seenD and many !ears were entertained !or her sa!ety# For the better %reser"ation o! disci%line, and o! that union between the crews o! the Por%oise and 4ato and %assengers o! the 6n"estigator, so necessary in our circumstances, it was highly eB%edient that they should be %ut on the same !ooting and united under one head# The Por%oise was lost beyond a %ossibility o! ho%e, and the situation o! the commander and crew thereby rendered similar to that o! their %assengersD 6 there!ore considered mysel! authorised and called u%on, as the senior o!!icer, to ta e the command o! the wholeD and my intention being communicated to lieutenant Fowler, he assented without hesitation to its eB%ediency and %ro%riety, and 6 owe to ca%tain Par a similar ac nowledgement# The %eo%le were then assembled u%on the to% o! the ban D and 6 in!ormed the seamen o! the 4ato, one or two o! whom had shown signs o! discontent at being ordered to wor , that as they doubtless eB%ected to be !ed !rom our %ro"isions, so they must eBert themsel"es to sa"e as much as %ossibleD7 and although they were not in the =ing's %ay, yet as a magistrate acting

within the jurisdiction o! the Admiralty, 6 would %unish all de"iations !rom obedience and good conduct in them, the same as amongst our own seamen# 6 ordered the 4ato's men, who had sa"ed nothing, to be @uartered in the messes o! our %eo%le, in the %ro%ortion o! one to threeD and directed lieutenant Fowler, who had charge o! the %ro"isions, to "ictual all ali e# The surgeon o! the Por%oise was ordered to eBamine the wounded, and gi"e in a list o! those really inca%able o! dutyD and a large %arty, consisting o! as many men as the two cutters could contain, went o!! to the wrec under the command o! Mr# Fowler, to disembar %ro"isions and stores# .7 Ghen a merchant shi% is lost, the seamen not only cease to be in %ay, but lose all wages due to them a!ter the last deli"ery o! the cargoD and the sole interest they ha"e to sa"e the stores, e"en o! their own shi%, is !or the %reser"ation o! themsel"es, or the %ros%ect o! being rewarded by the owners or insurers#3 A to%&sail yard was set u% and secured as a !lag sta!! on the highest %art o! the ban , and a large blue ensign hoisted to it with the union downward, as a signal to the Bridgewater# Ge eB%ected, i! no accident had ha%%ened, that she would come to relie"e us !rom our critical situation so soon as the wind should be %er!ectly moderateD but 6 judged it most %rudent to act as i! we had no such resource, and this was justi!ied by the e"ent# 4a%tain Palmer had e"en then abandoned us to our !ate, and was, at the moment, steering away !or Bata"ia, without ha"ing made any e!!ort to gi"e us assistance# 9e saw the wrec s, as also the sand ban , on the morning a!ter our disaster, and must ha"e nown that the ree! was not all connected, since it is s%o en o! by him as lying in %atchesD but he did not see to ascertain whether any o! the o%enings were %assable !or the Bridgewater, and might enable him to ta e those on board who had esca%ed drowning# 9e bore away round allD and whilst the two ha%less "essels were still "isible !rom the mast head, %assed the leeward eBtremity o! the ree!, and ho"e to !or the night# The a%%rehension o! danger to himsel! must then ha"e ceasedD but he neither attem%ted to wor u% in the smooth water, nor sent any o! his boats to see whether some un!ortunate indi"iduals were not clinging to the wrec s, whom he might snatch !rom the shar s or sa"e !rom a more lingering deathD it was sa!er, in his estimation, to continue on his "oyage and %ublish that we were all lost, as he did not !ail to do on his arri"al in 6ndia#7 .7 Against a British seaman !illing a res%ectable situation, these are hea"y chargesD but Mr# Palmer is himsel! the authority# The !ollowing eBtracts !rom his account are ta en !rom a 4alcutta %a%er, the A8r%hanA o! Feb# 2, 1E,-# The Bridgewater, he says, Cwas just beginning to draw o!!, when the Por%oise was scarcely a shi%'s length to leeward, settling with her head towards us, and her broadside u%on the ree!D her !oremast was gone and the sea brea ing o"er her# At this moment we %ercei"ed the 4ato within hal! a cable's length, standing stem on !or us# 6 hailed to %ut their helm a&starboard, by which means she just cleared us, and lu!!ed u% under our sternD had she !allen on board o! us the conse@uences must ha"e been dread!ul indeed#C 8n the 1Eth, CGhen the day was bro e, we had the morti!ication to %ercei"e the 4ato had shared the !ate o! the Por%oiseD the bow and bow s%rit o! the latter only at inter"als a%%earing through the sur!# >The Por%oise and 4ato were mista en !or each other#? The latter lay with her bottom eB%osed to the sea, which bro e with tremendous !ury o"er herD not a mast standing# Finding we could not weather the ree!, and that Ait was too late had it been in our %ower to

gi"e any assistanceAD and still !earing that we might be embayed or entangled by the su%%osed chain or %atchesD all there!ore that remained !or us to do was either by dint o! carrying sail to weather the ree! to the southward, >meaning the 4ato's Ban ,? or, i! !ailing in that, to %ush to leeward and endea"our to !ind a %assage through the A%atches o! ree!A to the northward# At ten a#m#, we !ound by chronometer we had got considerably to the westwardD and that it would be im%ossible, with the wind as it was then blowing strong !rom the 5# /# with a hea"y sea, to weather the southern ree!D we there!ore determined, while we had the day be!ore us, to run to the westward o! the northern ree!#C CAt two %#m# we got sight o! the ree! bearing <# <# /# At !i"e %#m# Awe could %ercei"e the wrec s, and ascertained the westernmost eBtent o! the ree!A to lay in 1MM deg# -2' 2,C east longitude#C CAA!ter %assing the ree! we lay too !or the nightAD and in the morning we lost sight cc o! it, ha"ing dri!ted to the northward#C 5uch is the substantial %art o! Mr# Palmer's account, omitting his own !ears and congratulations, and his Cmost %ain!ul re!leBions on the su!!erings o! the shi%wrec ed#C <othing is said o! the sand ban D but 6 ha"e been !a"oured with a co%y o! the journal o! Mr# Gilliams, third mate o! the Bridgewater, and the !ollowing %assages are ta en !rom it# CAt hal! %ast se"en a#m# >Aug# 1E#? saw the ree! on our weather bow, and !rom the mast head we saw the two shi%s, and to leeward o! them a Asand ban A# The weather abated much, we set all our sails, and e"ery man rejoiced that they should ha"e it in their %ower to assist their un!ortunate com%anionsD as there was e"ery %robability o! our going within two miles o! the ree!# The morning threatenedD but be!ore the wind increased we had time to satis!y oursel"es i! there were any still in eBistenceD we had nothing to a%%rehend but what could be seen be!ore we a%%roached so near# The shi%s were "ery distinctly to be seen !rom alo!t, and also !rom the dec D but instead o! rendering them any succour, the ca%tain ordered the shi% to be %ut on the other tac , and said it was im%ossible to render them any relie!# Ghat must be the sensations o! each man at that instantN 6nstead o! %roceeding to the su%%ort o! our un!ortunate com%anions, to lea"e them to the mercy o! the wa"es, without nowing whether they were in eBistence, or had %erishedO From the a%%earance o! the wrec s, there was e"ery %robability o! their eBistingD and i! any sur"i"ed at the time we were within sight, what must ha"e been their sensations on seeing all their anBious eB%ectations o! relie! blasted#C C;ntil our arri"al at Bombay, nothing %articular occurred, eBce%t my being sent on shore at Tillicherry with the account o! the loss o! the Por%oise and 4atoD an account that ser"ed !or the moment to blind the %eo%le# 6n eBecuting this ser"ice, 6 did, !or the !irst time to my nowledge, neglect my duty, and ga"e a contrary accountD but !or this reason&&6 was con"inced that the crews o! those shi%s were on the ree!s, and that this was an erroneous account made by ca%tain Palmer to eBcuse his own conduct# 6 le!t it on shore !or the %erusal o! the inhabitants, a!ter relating the story as contrary as %ossible# This was the cause o! many wordsD and at length ended with my @uitting the shi%, and !or!eiting my wages and a %art o! my clothes#C 5uch was the conduct o! Mr# Palmer towards 9is Majesty's shi% Por%oise, and towards the 4ato which had gi"en way in the moment o! danger that he might be sa"ed# But the o!!icers and crews o! the Por%oise and 4ato

reached /ngland in sa!etyD whilst ca%tain Palmer and the Bridgewater, who le!t Bombay !or /uro%e, ha"e not been heard o!, now !or many years# 9ow dread!ul must ha"e been his re!leBions at the time his shi% was going downO 'ieutenant Tuc er o! the na"y, who was !irst o!!icer o! the Bridgewater, and se"eral others as well as Mr# Gilliams, had ha%%ily @uitted the shi% in 6ndia#3 The wind blew !resh !rom the south&eastward on the 1Eth, and 1Ith, but on the two !ollowing days it was moderate with !ine weatherD we wor ed hard on board the Por%oise, and by the 22nd .M8<*A$ 22 A;G;5T 1E,23 had got most o! the water and %ro"isions secured in a large tent made with s%ars and sailsD each mess o! o!!icers and men had also their %ri"ate tentD and our manner o! li"ing and wor ing had assumed the same regularity as be!ore the shi%wrec # 8ne o! the men whose liberty go"ernor =ing had granted at my re@uest, being guilty o! disorderly conduct, the articles o! war were %ublicly read, and the man %unished at the !lag sta!!# This eBam%le ser"ed to correct any e"il dis%osition, i! such eBistedD the men wor ed cordially together, and in all res%ects we %reser"ed the same disci%line and order as on board 9is Majesty's shi%s# 8ur %ros%ects o! recei"ing succour !rom the Bridgewater ha"ing become "ery !eeble, a!ter two days o! moderate weather had ela%sed, 6 called a council o! all the o!!icers, to deliberate u%on the best means o! relie"ing oursel"es !rom the %recarious situation in which our mis!ortune, and ca%tain Palmer's want o! energy and humanity had le!t us eB%osedD and it was !inally determined, that an o!!icer and crew in the largest o! the two siB&oared cutters, should endea"our to get to 5andy 4a%e, siBty&three leagues distant, and !rom thence along the coast to Port :ac sonD and %ray 9is /Bcellency, the go"ernor, to send "essels to carry us either bac to that %ort or on towards /ngland# But as the sa!e arri"al o! the cutter at that season o! the year, when strong winds usually %re"ail !rom the southward, was a subject o! much a%%rehensionD it was resol"ed that two dec ed boats, ca%able o! trans%orting e"ery %erson remaining on the ban , eBce%t one o!!icer and boat's crew, should be immediately laid down by the car%enters, to be built !rom what was already and might be still !urther sa"ed !rom the wrec D and that, i! the o!!icer in the cutter did not return with assistance in two months, the boats should then, or as soon a!ter as they could be ready to sail, %roceed to Port :ac son# The !irst and %rinci%al means, howe"er, through which our deli"erance was to be eB%ected, being the sa!e arri"al o! the cutter, the choice o! an o!!icer to conduct her was neBt considered# 'ieutenant Fowler %ro%osed, and it seemed to be the general wish, that 6 should underta e the eBecution o! the tas D and being satis!ied that the %reser"ation o! order on the ban , and the sa"ing o! the stores would be le!t in good hands, the ho%e o! being instrumental to the general sa!ety induced me readily to com%ly# But to %ro"ide against sic ness and the "arious accidents which might arise !rom the nati"es o! the coast or otherwise, it was necessary that two o!!icers should be in the boatD and ca%tain Par o! the 4ato being desirous o! returning to Port :ac son, to ma e the necessary statements relati"e to the loss o! his shi%, he was a%%ointed my second with the general a%%robation# The smaller cutter with an o!!icer, his second, and a boat's crew, 6 %ro%osed should remain with the stores, and in charge o! my charts and boo s !or a !ew wee s longer than the two monthsD and then go to Port :ac son also, should no "essel arri"e be!ore that time# This %recaution was necessary, lest any un!oreseen occurrence should delay my return to the ban beyond two months, though not %re"ent it altogetherD that the charts, journals, and %a%ers might still be !ound there, to be ta en on

to /ngland i! wanted# 6 designed my brother, lieutenant Flinders, !or this ser"iceD but Mr# Fowler claiming it as the %ost o! honour, 6 too much res%ected the %rinci%le that in!luenced him not to accede to his re@uestD and there!ore ordered, that the !ormer o!!icer and Mr# :ohn A en, master o! the 6n"estigator, should ta e charge o! the dec ed boats, with a master's mate in each ca%able o! conducting them to Port :ac son, should illness or any accident ha%%en to either o! the o!!icers# T;/5*A$ 22 A;G;5T 1E,2 By the e"ening o! the 22rd, the Por%oise was well nigh em%tied o! all the most essential thingsD and on a sur"ey being made, there was !ound su!!icient water and %ro"isions on the ban to ser"e ninety&!our men, which was our number, !or three months, e"en at !ull allowanceD although many cas s were sto"e in the hold by the bulging o! the larbord side, and much dry %ro"isions s%oiled by the salt water# The %rinci%al contents o! the warrant o!!icers store rooms, as well as the sails#, rigging, and s%ars, were also on shore# My boo s, charts, and %a%ers had su!!ered much damage, !rom the to% o! the cabin being dis%laced when the miJen mast !ellD all such %a%ers as chanced to be loose on the night o! the shi%wrec were then washed away by the sur!s, and amongst them a chart o! the west side o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria and %art o! the <orth 4oast, u%on which 6 had been occu%ied in the a!ternoon# Part o! my small library shared the same !ateD but the rest o! the charts, with my log and bearing boo s and astronomical obser"ations were all sa"ed, though some o! them in a wet and shattered state# The rare %lants collected on di!!erent %arts o! the south, the east, and north coasts o! Terra Australis, !or 9is Majesty's botanic garden at =ew, and which were in a !lourishing g state be!ore the shi%wrec #, were totally destroyed by the salt waterD as were the dried s%ecimens o! %lants# Fortunately, the naturalist and natural&history %ainter, who remained at Port :ac son, had %ut on board only a small %art o! their collection o! s%ecimensD the great mass, with the %reser"ed birds, @uadru%eds, and insects being e%t !or a !uture o%%ortunity# Mr# Gestall# the landsca%e %ainter, had his s etches and drawings wetted and %artly destroyed in his cabinD and my little collection in mineralogy and conchology was much de!aced, and one&hal! lost# T9;)5*A$ 2M A;G;5T 1E,2 The car%enters were em%loyed until the e"ening o! the 2Mth, in %re%aring the cutter !or her intended eB%editionD and the rest o! the %eo%le in adding to the stores on the ban # As the Por%oise became lighter, the sea threw her higher u% on the ree!, and she was much sha enD but we ho%ed the timbers and beams would hold together, at least until the neBt s%ring tides, and that e"ery thing would be got out# 8! the 4ato, nothing but a !ew scattered !ragments had remained !or se"eral days be!ore# Be!ore lea"ing Grec )ee!, it will be %ro%er to say something o! the sand ban to which we were all indebted !or our li"esD and where the greater %art o! the o!!icers and %eo%le were to remain in eB%ectation o! my return !rom Port :ac son# 6n the anneBed "iew o! it, Mr# Gestall has re%resented the corals abo"e water, to gi"e a better notion o! their !orms and the way they are seen on the ree!sD but in reality, the tide ne"er lea"es any considerable %art o! them unco"ered# The length o! the ban is about one hundred and !i!ty !athoms, by !i!ty in breadth, and the general ele"ation three or !our !eet abo"e the common le"el o! high waterD it consists o! sand and %ieces o! coral, thrown u% by the wa"es

and eddy tides on a %atch o! ree! !i"e or siB miles in circuitD and being nearly in the middle o! the %atch, the sea does no more, e"en in a gale, than send a light s%ray o"er the ban , su!!icient, howe"er, to %re"ent the growth o! any other than a !ew diminuti"e salt %lants# 8n its north and north&west sides, and at one or two cables length !rom the ree!, there is !rom 1E to 2M !athoms on a bottom o! coral sandD where the Bridgewater might ha"e anchored in sa!ety, so long as the wind remained between 5# G# and /# 5# /#, and recei"ed e"ery %erson !rom the wrec s, with %ro"isions !or their subsistence# The latitude o! the ban was !ound to be 22 deg# 11' south, and longitude by the time ee%er <o# M2,, reduced u% !rom an obser"ation on the a!ternoon %receding the shi%wrec , 1MM deg# 2'D but this was a!terwards !ound to re@uire correction# This eBcellent time ee%er did not seem to ha"e been a!!ected by the "iolent motion o! the shi%D but <o# M12 sto%%ed, and Arnold's watch <o# 1K2+ was s%oiled by the salt water# 6n searching !or something wherewith to ma e a !ire on the !irst night o! our landing, a s%ar and a %iece o! timber, worm eaten and almost rotten, were !ound and burnt# The timber was seen by the master o! the Por%oise, who judged it to ha"e been %art o! the stern %ost o! a shi% o! about !our hundred tonsD and 6 ha"e thought it might, not im%robably, ha"e belonged to A'a BoussoleA or A''AstrolabeA# Monsieur de la Perouse, on @uitting Botany Bay, intended to "isit the south&west coast o! <ew 4aledoniaD and he might ha"e encountered in the night, as we did, some one o! the se"eral ree!s which lie scattered in this sea#7 >Atlas, Plate 6#? 'ess !ortunate than we were, he %robably had no !riendly sand ban near him, u%on which his %eo%le might be collected together and the means o! eBistence sa"ed out o! the shi%sD or %erha%s his two "essels both too the unluc y direction o! the 4ato a!ter stri ing, and the seas which bro e into them carried away all his boats and %ro"isionsD nor would 'a Perouse, his "essels, or crews be able, in such a case, to resist the im%etuosity o! the wa"es more than twenty&!our hours# 6! such were the end o! the regretted French na"igator, as there is now but too much reason to !ear, it is the counter%art o! what would ha"e be!allen all on board the Por%oise and 4ato, had the !ormer shi%, li e the 4ato, !allen o"er towards the sea instead o! heeling to the ree!# .7 'a Perouse says, in his letter to M# de Fleurieu, dated Feb# K, 1KEI !rom Botany Bay, C$ou will doubtless be glad to learn, that 6 ha"e not allowed this mis!ortune >the massacre o! ca%tain *e l'Angle and ele"en others at the <a"igator's 6sles? to derange the %lan o! the remaining %art o! my "oyage#C This %lan, as eB%ressed in a %receding letter o! 5e%t# K, 1KEK, at A"atscha, was to Cem%loy siB months in "isiting the Friendly 6slands to %rocure re!reshments, Athe south&west coast o! <ew 4aledoniaA, the island o! 5anta 4ruJ o! Mendana, the southern coast o! the land o! the Arsacides, with that o! 'ouisiade as !ar as <ew Guinea#C AVoyage o! 'a PerouseA, Translation, 'ondon, 1KII, V8'# 66# %# -I-&M, M,2&2# As 'a PeLrouse did not reach the Friendly 6sles, it is %robable that he began with <ew 4aledoniaD and that u%on the south&west coast, or in the way to it, disaster be!el him#3 An o%inion that 'a Perouse had been lost in this neighbourhood, induced me when eBamining the main coast to see care!ully at e"ery %lace, amongst the re!use thrown u%on the shores, !or indications o! shi%wrec to windwardD and could the search ha"e been then %rosecuted to the 1Mth, or 12th degree o! latitude, 6 am %ersuaded it would not ha"e been in "ain# Besides the eBtensi"e ree!s which s irt the western side o! <ew 4aledonia, and the Barrier )ee!s on the o%%osite coast o! <ew 5outh Gales, we are now ac@uainted with the siB or eight !ollowing distinct

ban s o! coral in the sea between them, eBclusi"e o! Grec )ee! and the 4ato's Ban # Two ree!s disco"ered by Bougain"ille# Bature de *iane, by the same# Two ree!s !urther westward, by the 6n"estigator# Booby 5hoal, towards <ew 4aledonia, by ca%tain 9# '# Ball# Bellona's 5hoal, by the shi% o! that name# Bam%ton's 5hoal, an eBtensi"e ree! with two small islands# There are also the islets and shoals seen by the shi% 5o"ereign, which are %robably a %art o! those that eBtend so !ar !rom the northwest end o! <ew 4aledoniaD and all these, with some others !urther northward, lie in the s%ace com%rehended between 'ouisiade and <ew Guinea on the north&&<ew 4aledonia to the east&&<ew 5outh Gales to the west&&and a line drawn !rom 5andy 4a%e to the 6sle o! Pines on the south# Few shi%s ha"e %assed through this sea without ma ing the disco"ery o! some new ban o! coralD and it is %robable that se"eral other %atches o! ree!, yet un nown, will be !ound in it, es%ecially on the 4aledonian side# This s%ace might be "ery a%%ro%riately called the A4orallian 5eaA# 49APT/) 66# *e%arture !rom Grec &)ee! Ban in a boat# Boisterous weather# The 4oast o! <ew 5outh Gales reached, and !ollowed# <ati"es at Point 'oo &out# 'anding near 5mo y 4a%eD and again near Port 9unter# Arri"al at Port :ac son on the thirteenth day# )eturn to Grec )ee! with a shi% and two schooners# Arrangements at the Ban # Account o! the ree!, with nautical and other remar s# ./A5T 48A5T# 6< T9/ B8AT#3 F)6*A$ 2+ A;G;5T 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate H#? 8n August 2+, the largest cutter being ready !or her eB%edition, was launched and named the A9o%eA# The morning was !ine, and wind light !rom the southwardD and notwithstanding the day, which in the seaman's calendar is the most un!ortunate o! the whole wee to commence a "oyage, 6 embar ed !or Port :ac son with the commander o! the 4ato# Ge had a double set o! rowers, ma ing in all !ourteen %ersons, with three wee s %ro"isions and two hal! hogsheads o! waterD so that the 9o%e was loaded rather too dee%ly# At eight in the morning, we %ushed o!! amidst the cheers and good wishes o! those !or whom we were going to see relie!D an ensign with the union downward, had hitherto been e%t hoisted as a signal to ca%tain Palmer o! our distressD but in this moment o! enthusiasm a seaman @uitted the crowd, and ha"ing obtained %ermission, ran to the !lag sta!!, hauled down the ensign, and rehoisted it with the union in the u%%er canton# This symbolical eB%ression o! contem%t !or the Bridgewater and o! con!idence in the success o! our "oyage, 6 did not see without li"ely emotions# Ge made sail to the westward under the lee o! the ree!, and %assed two o%enings in it o! nearly a mile wide# The second league brought us abreast o! a dry sand ban , smaller than that @uittedD and at noon we

came to a third, lying ten miles west o! Grec &)ee! Ban # 9a"ing then lost the breeJe, we sto%%ed to coo our dinner on shoreD and in the mean time 6 shot as many noddies as would gi"e all the boat's crew a meal# 8n @uitting this third ban , which is near the western eBtremity o! Grec )ee!, we crossed into the o%en seaD and a breeJe s%ringing u% at south&east, made sail towards 5andy 4a%e# Many hum%&bac ed whales were %laying about the boat during the whole time we remained under the lee o! the ree!, but they did not !ollow us !urther# <othing but clear water was "isible at sunset, ne"ertheless we ran cautiously in the dar , loo ing out !or brea ersD the night was !ine, and we made good %rogress by means o! the oars, at which the twel"e men too watch and watch, as Mr# Par and mysel! did at the helm( it was !or this %ur%ose, and to guard against accidents, that 6 had ta en so many men in the boat# 5AT;)*A$ 2K A;G;5T 1E,2 At day brea the wind was /# 5# /#, and no land in sightD the boat was going !our nots, and at noon our latitude by log was 22 deg# +' and the distance made !rom Grec &)ee! Ban , ninety miles# The wind !reshened in the a!ternoon, and a cross sea rose which obliged us to ree! the sails, and made the boat "ery wet# At !our we close ree!ed and hauled to the wind, but this was not enoughD the increased hollowness o! the wa"es caused the boat to labour so much, that e"ery %lunge raised an a%%rehension that some o! the %lan s would start !rom the timbers# 9a"ing no other resource, we em%tied one o! the two cas s o! water, threw o"er&board the stones o! our !ire %lace and wood !or coo ing, as also a bag o! %ease and whate"er else could be best s%aredD the boat was then somewhat more easyD and be!ore dar , the hollow swell had so !ar subsided that we e%t two %oints !rom the wind, and again went along in tolerable tran@uillity# This hollow sea was %robably caused by a weather tide setting out o! some %assage between the ree!s to the north&westwardD and the succeeding smooth water by the tide ha"ing turned to leeward, or otherwise !rom the boat ha"ing %assed across the streamD it is at least certain, that the southern %art o! the Barrier )ee!s, seen by ca%tain 5wain o! the shi% /liJa, was somewhere to the north&west o! our situation at that time# To a"oid all these ree!s, and to counteract the e!!ect o! a north&western current, 6 e%t a 5# 5# G# course all the !ollowing night# 5;<*A$ 2E A;G;5T 1E,2 Ge had !ine weather neBt morning, with a moderate breeJe at north&eastD and at noon, the distance run in the %receding twenty&!our hours was ninety&one miles by the log, and the obser"ed latitude 2- deg# M2' south( the lead was %ut o"er&board#, but no bottom !ound at M, !athoms# 8ur situation being to the south o! 5andy 4a%e, we steered a %oint more west, in the ho%e o! seeing the land be!ore nightD it being my intention to ee% near the coast !rom thence to Port :ac son, that by landing, or running the boat on shore, we might esca%e !oundering at sea should a gale o! wind come on# At sunset, the land was "isible to the westward at the distance o! !our or !i"e leagues, and we then hauled u% south, %arallel to the coastD the night was !ine, the wind light and !air, and at daylight .M8<*A$ 2I A;G;5T 1E,23 the to%s o! the hills were seen in the west, at the same distance as be!ore# 8ur latitude at noon was 2+ deg# 22', and a high hummoc u%on the land, somewhere between *ouble&island Point and Glass&house Bay, bore G# 2L- <#

>Atlas, Plate 6H#? 8ur !a"ourable breeJe died away in the a!ternoon, and we too to the oarsD it howe"er s%rung u% again !rom the northward, and brought us within sight o! 4a%e Moreton at sunset# Towards midnight the weather became s@ually with hea"y rain, and ga"e us all a thorough drenchingD but the wind not being "ery strong in these s@ualls, our course was still %ursued to the southward# A!ter the rain ceased the wind came at 5# 5# G#D and the weather remaining unsettled, we tac ed at daylight .T;/5*A$ 2, A;G;5T 1E,23 to get close in with the land, and at noon anchored under Point 'oo &out# This was only the !ourth day o! our de%arture !rom Grec )ee!, and 6 considered the "oyage to be hal! accom%lished, since we had got !irm hold o! the main coastD !or the %robability o! being lost is greater in ma ing three hundred miles in an o%en boat at sea, than in running e"en siB hundred along shore# 6t would ha"e added much to our satis!action, could we ha"e con"eyed the intelligence o! this !ortunate %rogress to our shi%mates on the ban # The necessity !or a su%%ly o! !resh water was becoming urgent, !or our remaining hal! hogshead was much reduced# There were about twenty 6ndians u%on the side o! a hill near the shore, who seemed to be %eaceably dis%osed, amusing us with dances in imitation o! the angarooD we made signs o! wanting water, which they understood, and %ointed to a small rill !alling into the sea# Two o! the sailors lea%ed o"er&board, with some tri!les !or the nati"es and one end o! the lead lineD with the other end we slung the em%ty cas , which they hauled on shore and !illed without molestation# A shar had !ollowed them to the beachD and !earing they might be attac ed in returning, we got u% the anchor and went to a %lace where the sur!, though too much to allow o! the boat landing, %ermitted us to lie closer# The cas o! water, a bundle o! wood, and the two men were recei"ed on board without accidentD the nati"es ee%ing aloo! during the whole time, and e"en retiring when our %eo%le a%%roached, though they were without arms and na ed# 6t is %robable that the 6ndians were astonished at the com%arison between the moderately white s ins o! the sailors and their own, and %erha%s had heard o! my eB%edition to Glass&house Bay in 1KII, in which 6 had been %ro"o ed to ma e one o! them !eel the e!!ect o! our armsD and had they attem%ted any thing against my two men, we were %re%ared to ha"e gi"en them a "olley !rom the boat which would %robably ha"e been a !ear!ul con!irmation o! the truth o! the re%ortD but ha%%ily !or both %arties, we were not reduced to the necessity# 8n rowing to Point 'oo &out, to continue the "oyage, 6 !ound the wind so !resh !rom the southward that the greatest !atigue at the oars could ad"ance us littleD we there!ore ran to leeward o! two roc s, lying a mile and a hal! north&west !rom the eBtremity o! the %ointD and ha"ing anchored there, arranged the boat so as that e"ery %erson might ta e a better night's rest than we had hitherto been able to enjoy# G/*</5*A$ 21 A;G;5T 1E,2 At daylight, the wind being light and "ariable, we %roceeded along the coast by using both sails and oars# The weather was dull, and %re"ented an obser"ation at noon !or the latitudeD but a sight o! Mount Garning at dus showed that our %rogress was e@ual to eB%ectation# Ge then had a gentle breeJe !rom the north&eastwardD and at ten o'cloc , %assed close to a %rojection o! land which 6 su%%osed to be Point *anger, without seeing any brea ersD it is there!ore %robable, that the ree! laid down by

ca%tain 4oo does not join to the land, !or we e%t a good loo out, and the night was tolerably !ine# T9;)5*A$ 1 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 At !i"e on the !ollowing morning we %assed 4a%e Byron, with a breeJe at north&west, and at noon had made a hundred miles by our rec oning !rom Point 'oo &outD the obser"ed latitude was then 2I deg# 1+', and the land near 5hoal Bay was three leagues distant# Ge continued steering to the southward, in high s%irits at being so !a"oured by the northern winds, which there was so little reason to eB%ectD and at eight in the e"ening reached abreast o! the 5olitary 6sles# 5mo y 4a%e was in sight neBt morning .F)6*A$ 2 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23D but the wind coming round to south, and blowing !resh with thic weather, we tac ed towards the shoreD and at noon landed behind a small ledge o! roc s, about three leagues short o! the 4a%e# The distance run these twenty&!our hours was eighty !i"e miles, and the southwardly current had moreo"er gi"en its assistance# This ledge o! roc s lies on the north side o! a %oint u%on which there are some hummoc sD and on ascending the highest, 6 saw a lagoon into which the tide !lowed by a narrow %assage on the inner side o! the %oint# The A%andanusA grows hereD and as it was a tree un nown to Bongaree, this latitude >about 2, deg# -M'? is %robably near its southern limit# Ge too in a su%%ly o! !uel and gathered some !ine oysters, and the wind dying away to a calm in the a!ternoon, rowed out !or 5mo y 4a%eD but on reaching abreast o! it the wind again rose aheadD and at one in the morning we anchored in a small bight at the eBtremity o! the 4a%e, and remained until daylight# 5AT;)*A$ 2 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 The wind was still contrary on the 2rd, ne"ertheless we stood out and beat to the southward until !our in the a!ternoonD when the sea ha"ing become too high !or the boat, we anchored under the lee o! a small %rojecting %oint, eight or ten leagues to the south o! 5mo y 4a%eD which distance had been gained in about ten hours, %rinci%ally by means o! the current# 5;<*A$ - 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 8n the -th, we again attem%ted to beat to the southwardD but the wind being light as well as !oul, and the sea running high, not much was gainedD at noon the weather threatened so much, that it became necessary to loo out !or a %lace o! shelter, and we steered into a bight with roc s in it, which 6 judge to ha"e been on the north side o! Tac ing Point# At the head o! the bight is a lagoonD but the entrance %ro"ing to be "ery shallow, and !inding no security, we continued on our "oyageD trusting that some %lace o! shelter would %resent itsel!, i! obliged to see it by necessity# Towards e"ening the wind and weather became more !a"ourableD in the morning .M8<*A$ M 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23 the Three Brothers were in sightD and at noon 6 obser"ed the latitude 21 deg# MK', when the middlemost o! these hills bore <# <# G# and our distance o!! shore was two or three leagues# >Atlas, Plate V666#? At this time the wind blew a moderate sea breeJe at /# 5# /, 4a%e 9aw e was seen soon a!terward, and at eight in the e"ening we steered between 5ugar&loa! Point and the two roc s lying !rom it three or !our miles to

the south&east# At !our neBt morning .T;/5*A$ + 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23, %assed the islands at the entrance o! Port 5te%hens, and at noon the 4oal 6sland in the mouth o! Port 9unter bore <# G# by <#D the wind then shi!ted more to the southward, with s@ually weather, and both %re"ented the boat !rom lying along the coast and made it unsa!e to be at sea# A!ter struggling till !our in the a!ternoon, with little ad"antage, we bore u% to loo !or shelter behind some o! the small %rojecting %ointsD and almost immediately !ound it in a shallow co"e, eB%osed only to the north&eastward# This was the ele"enth day o! our de%arture !rom Grec )ee!, and the distance o! Port :ac son did not now eBceed !i!ty miles# At this %lace we sle%t on shore !or the !irst timeD but the weather being s@ually, rainy, and cold, and the boat's sails our best shelter, it was not with any great share o! com!ortD a good watch was e%t during the night, but no molestation was recei"ed !rom the nati"es# <otwithstanding our cram%ed&u% %osition in the boat, and eB%osure to all inds o! weather, we enjoyed eBcellent healthD one man eBce%ted, u%on whom the dysentery, which had made such ra"ages in the 6n"estigator, now returned with some "iolence# ./A5T 48A5T# P8)T :A4=58<#3 G/*</5*A$ K 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 A cas o! water was !illed on the morning o! the Kth, and our biscuit being all eB%ended or s%oiled, some ca es were ba ed in the ashes !or our !uture subsistence# At ele"en o'cloc , the rain ha"ing cleared away, we stood out to the o!!ing with light ba!!ling winds, and towards e"ening were enabled to lie along the coastD but the breeJe at south&east not gi"ing much assistance, we too to the oars and laboured hard all the !ollowing night, being animated with the %ros%ect o! a s%eedy termination to our "oyage# The north head o! Bro en Bay was in sight neBt morning .T9;)5*A$ E 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23, and at noon the south head was abreast o! the boatD a sea breeJe then setting in at /# <# /#, we crowded all sail !or Port :ac son, and soon a!ter two o'cloc had the ha%%iness to enter between the heads# The reader has %erha%s ne"er gone 2M, leagues at sea in an o%en boat, or along a strange coast inhabited by sa"agesD but i! he recollect the eighty o!!icers and men u%on Grec &)ee! Ban , and how im%ortant was our arri"al to their sa!ety, and to the sa"ing o! the charts, journals, and %a%ers o! the 6n"estigator's "oyage, he may ha"e some idea o! the %leasure we !elt, but %articularly mysel!, at entering our destined %ort# 6 %roceeded immediately to the town o! 5ydney, and went with ca%tain Par to wait u%on 9is /Bcellency go"ernor =ing, whom we !ound at dinner with his !amily# A raJor had not %assed o"er our !aces !rom the time o! the shi%wrec , and the sur%rise o! the go"ernor was not little at seeing two %ersons thus a%%ear whom he su%%osed to be many hundred leagues on their way to /nglandD but so soon as he was con"inced o! the truth o! the "ision be!ore him, and learned the melancholy cause, an in"oluntary tear started !rom the eye o! !riendshi% and com%assion, and we were recei"ed in the most a!!ectionate manner# 9is /Bcellency lost no time in engaging the shi% )olla, then lying in %ort, bound to 4hina, to go to the rescue o! the o!!icers and crews o! the Por%oise and 4atoD 6 accom%anied the go"ernor on board the )olla a day or two a!terwards, and articles were signed by which the commander, Mr# )obert 4umming, engaged to call at Grec )ee!, ta e e"ery %erson on

board and carry them to 4anton, u%on terms which showed him to ta e the interest in our mis!ortune which might be eB%ected !rom a British seaman# The go"ernor ordered two colonial schooners to accom%any the )olla, to bring bac those who %re!erred returning to Port :ac son, with such stores o! the Por%oise as could be %rocuredD and e"ery thing was done that an anBious desire to !orward 9is Majesty's ser"ice and alle"iate mis!ortune could de"iseD e"en %ri"ate indi"iduals %ut wine, li"e stoc , and "egetables, unas ed, on board the )olla !or the o!!icers u%on the ree!# My anBiety to get bac to Grec )ee!, and !rom thence to /ngland with the greatest des%atch, induced the go"ernor to o!!er me one o! the schooners to go through Torres' 5trait and by the most eB%editious %assage to /uro%eD rather than ta e the long route by 4hina in the )olla# This schooner was something less than a Gra"esend %assage boat, being only o! twenty&nine tons burthenD and there!ore it re@uired some consideration be!ore acceding to the %ro%osal# 9er small siJe, when com%ared with the distance !rom Port :ac son to /ngland, was not my greatest objection to the little 4umberlandD it was the @uic ness o! her motion and the want o! con"enience, which would %re"ent the charts and journal o! my "oyage !rom being %re%ared on the %assage, and render the whole so much time lost to this im%ortant object# 8n the other hand, the ad"antage o! again %assing through, and collecting more in!ormation o! Torres' 5trait, and o! arri"ing in /ngland three or !our months sooner to commence the out!it o! another shi%, were im%ortant considerationsD and joined to some ambition o! being the !irst to underta e so long a "oyage in such a small "essel, and a desire to %ut an early sto% to the account which ca%tain Palmer would %robably gi"e o! our total loss, they %ro"ed su!!icient inducements to acce%t the go"ernor's o!!er, on !inding his "essel had the character o! being a strong, good little sea boat# The 4umberland was at that time absent u% the ri"er 9aw esbury, and the Francis, the other schooner, was lying on shore and could not be got o!! be!ore the !ollowing s%ring tidesD on these accounts, and !rom the )olla not being @uite !itted, it was thirteen days a!ter my arri"al in the boat be!ore the whole could be ready to sail# This delay caused me much uneasiness, under the a%%rehension that we might not arri"e be!ore our !riends at the ree!, des%airing o! assistance, should ha"e made some unsuccess!ul attem%t to sa"e themsel"esD and this idea %ursued me so much, that e"ery day seemed to be a wee until 6 got out o! the harbour with the three "essels# Go"ernor =ing's answer to my communication res%ecting the shi%wrec o! the Por%oise and 4ato, and the orders under which 6 acted in embar ing in the 4umberland, are contained in the !ollowing letter# 5ydney, <ew 5outh Gales#, 5e%t# 1K, 1E,2# 5ir, 6n ac nowledging the recei%t o! yours with its inclosure o! the Ith instant, whilst 6 lament the mis!ortune that has be!allen the Por%oise and 4ato, 6 am than !ul that no more li"es ha"e been lost than the three you mention# 6 ha"e e"ery reason to be assured that no %recaution was omitted by lieutenant Fowler and yoursel! to a"oid the accident, and 6 am e@ually satis!ied with your account o! the eBertions o! the o!!icers and men a!ter the loss o! the shi%s, both !or the %reser"ation o! the stores and maintaining order in their %resent situationD nor can 6 su!!iciently commend your "oluntary ser"ices and those who came with you, in

underta ing a "oyage o! K,, miles in an o%en boat, to %rocure relie! !or our !riends now on the ban D and 6 ho%e !or the honour o! humanity, that i! the Bridgewater be sa!e, the commander may be able to gi"e some %ossible reason !or his not ascertaining whether any had sur"i"ed the shi%wrec , as there a%%ears too much reason to belie"e he has %ersuaded himsel! all %erished# <o time has been lost in %re"ailing u%on the master o! the )olla, bound to 4hina, to ta e on board the o!!icers and seamen now on the ree!, belonging to the Por%oise and 6n"estigator, and carrying them to 4anton whither he is boundD on the conditions eB%ressed in the agreement entered into with him by me, and which you ha"e witnessed# For that %ur%ose 6 ha"e caused a %ro%ortion o! all s%ecies o! %ro"isions to be %ut on board at !ull allowance, !or se"enty men !or ten wee s !rom the ree!D 6 shall also gi"e to lieutenant Fowler the instructions !or his conduct which 6 ha"e communicated to you, and direct him to consult with you on the measures to be ado%ted by him !or eBecuting those instructions, as !ar as situation and e"ents may render them %racticable# And as you agree with me that the 4umberland, colonial schooner o! twenty&nine tons, built here, is ca%able o! %er!orming the "oyage to /ngland by way o! Torres' 5trait, and it being essential to the !urthering 9is Majesty's ser"ice that you should reach /ngland by the most %rom%t con"eyance with your charts and journals, 6 ha"e directed the commissary to ma e that "essel o"er to you, with her %resent !urniture, sails, etcD and to com%lete her !rom the stores o! the 6n"estigator with such other articles as you may re@uire, together with a %ro%ortion o! %ro"isions !or siB months, !or ten o!!icers and men# And on your arri"al at Grec )ee! you will select such o!!icers and men as you may judge necessary, lieutenant Fowler ha"ing my orders on that head# A!ter ha"ing gi"en e"ery assistance to get the %eo%le and as many stores as can be ta en on board the )olla, and gi"en the commander o! the Francis schooner such orders as circumstances may re@uire, !or bringing those who may choose to be discharged !rom the ser"ice and as many stores as she can bring, you will then %roceed to /ngland by the route you may judge most ad"isable and bene!icial !or 9is Majesty's ser"ice# 8n your arri"al in 'ondon you will deli"er my letters to the Admiralty and the %rinci%al secretary o! state !or the colonies# 6n case any un!oreseen circumstances should %re"ent the accom%lishment o! the "oyage in the 4umberland, you will ta e such measures as may a%%ear most conduci"e to the interest o! 9is Majesty's ser"ice, either by selling the "essel, or letting her !or !reight at the 4a%e or elsewhere, i! any merchants choose to send %ro%er o!!icers and men to conduct her bac D and in the e"ent o! your being obliged to dis%ose o! her, you will account with 9is Majesty's %rinci%al secretary o! state !or the colonies !or the %roceeds# 6 am, etc#, >5igned? Phili% Gidley =ing# ./A5T 48A5T# T8GA)*5 G)/4= )//F#3 The small siJe o! the 4umberland made it necessary to sto% at e"ery con"enient %lace on the way to /ngland, !or water and re!reshmentD and 6 %ro%osed 4oe%ang Bay in Timor, Mauritius, the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, 5t# 9elena, and some one o! the Gestern 6slesD but go"ernor =ing objected to

Mauritius, !rom not wishing to encourage any communication between the French colonies and Port :ac sonD and also because he had understood that hurricanes o!ten %re"ailed in the neighbourhood o! that island, about the time o! year when 6 should be %assingD he le!t this matter, howe"er, to be decided by necessity and my judgment, and ga"e me two letters !or the go"ernor o! Mauritius, to be !orwarded !rom the 4a%e, or by the best o%%ortunity# At those %laces in the 6ndian 5eas where 6 might sto%, he re@uested me to ma e in@uires into the !acility o! obtaining cattle !or his colony, with the %rice and the tra!!ic with which they might be best %rocuredD and to send this in!ormation by any shi% bound to Port :ac son# G/*</5*A$ 21 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 /"ery thing being %re%ared !or our de%arture, 6 sailed out o! the harbour in the 4umberland on the 21st at daylight, with the )olla and Francis in com%any# Mr# 6nman, the astronomer, had ta en a %assage in the )olla with his instrumentsD and o! the thirteen %ersons who came with me in the boat, ca%tain Par and his second mate were on board that shi%, and the boatswain o! the 6n"estigator with the ten seamen com%osed my crew in the schooner# Ge had a !resh breeJe at south&east, and the 4umberland a%%eared to sail as well as could be eB%ectedD but the wind becoming stronger towards night, she lay o"er so much u%on the broad side that little sail could be carriedD and instead o! being tight, as had been re%resented, her u%%er wor s then admitted a great deal o! water# <eBt morning .T9;)5*A$ 22 5/PT/MB/) 1E,23, the wind ha"ing rather increased than diminished, 6 !ound we should soon be obliged to lie to altogether, and that i! we %assed Port 5te%hens there was no %lace o! shelter !or a long distance where the schooner could be sa"ed !rom dri!ting on shoreD the signal was there!ore made to tac , and at dus the )olla and Francis ran into Port 5te%hens# <ot being able to reach so !ar, 6 anchored in a small bight under Point 5te%hens, in "ery bad %lightD the %um%s %ro"ing to be so nearly useless, that we could not %re"ent the water !rom hal! !illing the holdD and two hours longer would ha"e reduced us to baling with buc ets, and %erha%s ha"e been !atal# This essay did not lead me to thin !a"ourably o! the "essel, in which 6 had underta en a "oyage hal! round the globe# F)6*A$ 22 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 <eBt morning 6 joined the )olla and FrancisD and it being then calm, we did not @uit Port 5te%hens until the a!ternoon# At night the wind again blew strong !rom the south&eastD but the desire to arri"e at Grec )ee! o"ercoming my a%%rehensions, the schooner was made snug and we %erse"ered# 8ur inability to carry sail was so much the more %ro"o ing, that this wind was as !air as could be wishedD but whilst the 4umberland could scarcely bear a close&ree!ed main sail and jib without danger o! o"ersetting, the )olla went along under double&ree!ed to% sails in great tran@uillityD and to a"oid %arting com%any was obliged to ee% her courses u%, and to bac a to% sail !rom time to time# 5AT;)*A$ 2- 5/PT/MB/) 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate H#? The wind moderated neBt day, and allowed us to ma e better %rogress# 6t a!terwards "eered round to the north&east, and %re"ented us !rom !etching more than ten miles to the east o! the ree! by Mr# 6nman's time ee%er, when we came into the %ro%er latitude# Ge bore away !or it, howe"er, on 8ct# 1 .5AT;)*A$ 1 84T8B/) 1E,23, and ran more than a degree to the westD

when !inding no ree! or ban , it a%%eared that we must ha"e been something to the west o! Grec )ee! when the time ee%er showed ten miles to the eastward# This obliged us to wor bac again, and it was not till the Kth .F)6*A$ K 84T8B/) 1E,23 that we got sight o! the ensign u%on the to% o! the ban #7 .7 The want o! my journal has %re"ented me !rom stating any %articulars o! this %assage "ery correctlyD but 6 ha"e lately obtained a sight o! Mr# 6nman's obser"ations, and it a%%ears !rom them that his time ee%er >=endal's <o# -M? erred 21' to the east on 8ct# 1, and that on the 2nd a#m# our corrected longitude was 1M2 deg# M2'# Ge ran westward till that e"ening, and must there!ore ha"e gone to about 1M2 deg# 2M', or 1 deg# M-' west o! Grec &)ee! Ban D and as no dangers were seen, this shows how com%letely the )ee! is se%arated !rom the great Barrier o! the coastD a %oint which it is o! some im%ortance to ha"e ascertained#3 ./A5T 48A5T# G)/4= )//F#3 6t was siB wee s on this day that 6 had @uitted the ree! in the boat, !or the %ur%ose o! see ing the means to relie"e my o!!icers and %eo%le# The ban was !irst seen !rom the )olla's mast head, and soon a!terward two boats were %ercei"ed under sailD and ad"ancing nearer, we saw one boat ma e !or the )olla and the other returning to the ban # The Por%oise had not yet gone to %iecesD but was still lying on her beam ends, high u% on the ree!, a !rail, but im%ressi"e monument o! our mis!ortune# 6n the a!ternoon 6 anchored under the lee o! the ban , in 1E !athoms coral sand, and a salute o! ele"en guns !rom it was immediately !ired, the carronades o! the Por%oise ha"ing been trans%orted !rom the wrec # 8n landing, 6 was greeted with three hearty cheers, and the utmost joy by my o!!icers and %eo%leD and the %leasure o! rejoining my com%anions so am%ly %ro"ided with the means o! relie"ing their distress, made this one o! the ha%%iest moments o! my li!e# The two boats we had seen, were the Por%oise's remaining cutter and a new boat constructed during my absenceD it was just com%leted, and lieutenant Fowler had this morning gone out to try its sailing against the cutter# My sa!e arri"al at Port :ac son became a subject o! much doubt a!ter the !irst monthD and they had begun to reconcile their minds to ma ing the best use o! the means they %ossessed to reach some !re@uented %ort# The )olla's to%&gallant sail was !irst seen in the horiJon by a man in the new boat, and was ta en !or a birdD but regarding it more stead!astly, he started u% and eBclaimed, d&&n my bl&&d what's thatO 6t was soon recognised to be a sail, and caused a general acclamation o! joy, !or they doubted not it was a shi% coming to their succour# 'ieutenant Flinders, then commanding o!!icer on the ban , was in his tent calculating some lunar distances, when one o! the young gentlemen ran to him, calling, C5ir, 5irO A shi% and two schooners in sightOC A!ter a little consideration, Mr# Flinders said he su%%osed it was his brother come bac , and as ed i! the "essels were nearN 9e was answered, not yetD u%on which he desired to be in!ormed when they should reach the anchorage, and "ery calmly resumed his calculations( such are the "aried e!!ects %roduced by the same circumstance u%on di!!erent minds# Ghen the desired re%ort was made, he ordered the salute to be !ired, and too %art in the general satis!action# My %lan o! %roceeding at the ree! ha"ing been arranged on the %assage, 6 immediately began to %ut it in eBecution# The %eo%le were assembled on the ban , and in!ormed that such as chose to be discharged !rom the

ser"ice might return to Port :ac son in the Francis schoonerD and that the rest would be ta en on board the )olla and carried to 4hina, with the eBce%tion o! ten o!!icers and men whom 6 named, to go to /ngland with me in the 4umberland, i! they would ris themsel"es in so small a "esselD !or notwithstanding what had been disco"ered o! the bad @ualities o! the schooner, 6 determined to %roceed, at least so !ar as to reach some %ort where a %assage might be %rocured in a better "essel without losing time# The determinations o! all were re@uired to be gi"en on the !ollowing dayD and in the mean time we began to ta e on board the !ew stores necessary to com%lete the 4umberland !or our "oyage, and es%ecially to !ill the holds with water, o! which there was yet a good @uantity remaining on the ban # M8<*A$ 1, 84T8B/) 1E,2 8n the 1,th, three days a!ter our arri"al, the )olla had recei"ed the %eo%le destined !or her, with %art o! the %ro"isions and storesD and the 4umberland was ready to sail# All those whom 6 had named, with the eBce%tion o! my cler , "olunteered to go in the schoonerD "iJ#, Mr# :ohn A en, master, and Mr# /dward 4harrington, boatswain o! the 6n"estigator, my ser"ant, and se"en chosen seamen# A cas containing what had been sa"ed o! my s%ecimens o! mineralogy and conchology was ta en on board, as also the charts, boo s, and %a%ers o! e"ery ind, with the instruments recei"ed !rom the <a"y Board and the sole time ee%er which had not sto%%ed# Mr# *enis 'acy, master's mate o! the 6n"estigator, desiring to return to Port :ac son, he was charged with my letter to 9is /Bcellency go"ernor =ingD and 6 ga"e him an order to command the new boat# 6t was about the siJe o! the 4umberland, had a dec , and was called the A)esourceAD and we manned her with a %art o! those %eo%le whose choice led them bac to Port :ac son# 6 ordered Mr# :ames Ai in, commander o! the Francis, and Mr# 'acy, to ta e on board !or the colony as much o! the stores as they should be ableD and on their arri"al, to ma e a statement to the go"ernor o! the condition in which they might lea"e the Por%oise, and what remained on the ban # The o!!icers journals, which were to be sent to the Admiralty at the conclusion o! the "oyage, had not been demanded at the time o! our shi%wrec D lieutenant Fowler was there!ore directed to ta e all that were sa"ed belonging to the o!!icers embar ed with him in the )ollaD and lest any accident should ha%%en to the 4umberland, 6 committed to his charge a co%y o! !our charts, being all o! the /ast and <orth 4oasts which there had been time to get readyD with these he too a short letter to the secretary o! the Admiralty, and one to the Victualling Board inclosing such "ouchers as had been sa"ed !rom the wrec # To Mr# 6nman 6 ga"e the remaining instruments belonging to the Board o! 'ongitude, reser"ing only a time ee%er and a telesco%eD the large and most "aluable instruments had "ery !ortunately been deli"ered to him be!ore we had sailed !rom Port :ac son in the Por%oise# These matters being arranged, 6 %ressed ca%tain 4umming to de%art, !earing that a change o! wind might eB%ose the )olla to dangerD but !inding him desirous to ta e o!! more %ro"isions and stores, 6 made sail !or a ban or rather islet se"en miles distant at the eastern eBtremity o! Grec )ee!, !or the %ur%ose o! collecting seabirds eggs, and i! %ossible ta ing a turtle# The )olla joined on the !ollowing day .T;/5*A$ 11 84T8B/) 1E,23, and 6 went on board to ta e lea"e o! Messrs# Fowler and Flinders and the other o!!icers and gentlemenD at noon we %arted com%any

with three cheers, the )olla steering north&eastward !or 4hina, whilst my course was directed !or Torres' 5trait# Gith the time ee%er, /arnshaw's <o# M2,, 6 had recei"ed !rom lieutenant Flinders an account o! its error !rom mean Greenwich time at noon there 8ct# +, and its rate o! going during the !ourteen %receding days, which were as under# <o# M2,, slow ,h I' -I#2MC and losing 2-#12C %er day# The AlatitudeA o! Grec &)ee! Ban was ascertained !rom eight meridian obser"ations !rom the sea, and !our !rom an arti!icial horiJon( the mean o! the latter, which are considered the best, is 22 deg# 11' 22C 5# A'ongitudeA !rom siBty sets o! lunar distances, o! which the indi"idual results are gi"en in Table V666# o! the A%%endiB <o# 6# to this "olume, 1MM deg# 1E' M,#MC /# The longitude o! the ban , as gi"en by /arnshaw's <o# M2, on Aug# 2E, ele"en days a!ter the shi%wrec , was 1MM deg# -' 1-#+C with the Port :ac son rate, or 1-' 2M#IC less than the lunar obser"ations# 6n laying down the Por%oise's trac on the chart, this error has been corrected by an e@ual %ro%ortion, according to the time o! each obser"ation !or the longitude# Mr# Flinders deduced the A"ariationA o! the com%ass !rom obser"ing the sun's magnetic aJimuth a# m# and %# m#, when e@ual altitudes were ta en, and com%aring the mean aJimuth at corres%onding altitudes with the true meridianD this method is %robably not the best, and the results !rom two com%asses di!!ered considerablyD Gal er's com%ass, mar ed <o# 1, gi"ing I deg# 1K' east !rom ten obser"ations, and that mar ed <o# 2, 12 deg# M-' !rom !i"e obser"ations# The !irst is undoubtedly the best, though %ossibly not "ery correct# There are here two regular AtidesA daily, and it was high water on the day o! !ull moon at Eh M,' in the morningD the rise was siB !eet two inches, but the night tide will %robably reach to eight, or %erha%s nine !eet at the height o! the s%rings# 5ome account was gi"en o! Grec &)ee! Ban be!ore @uitting it in the boat, but 6 had not then ac@uired a nowledge o! the whole eBtent o! the ree!# 6t is about twenty miles long, and !rom a @uarter, to one mile and a hal! in breadthD and consists o! many distinct %atches o! di!!erent magnitudes, the siB %rinci%al o! which are !rom !our to eight or ten miles in circuit# They are se%arated by channels o! one mile to near a league in widthD and in the two easternmost 6 !ound !rom E to 1, !athoms, and nothing to %re"ent a shi% %assing through in a case o! necessity# Four o! the siB larger %atches ha"e each a sand ban near the middle, which do not a%%ear to ha"e been lately co"ered by the tideD and they are now more or less !re@uented by sea birds, such as noddies, boobies, tro%ic, and man&o!&war birds, gannets, and %erha%s some others# 8! these !our ban s, two lie to the west and one to the east o! that near which our shi%s struc D but the eastern ban is the most considerable, and most !re@uented by birdsD turtle also land there occasionally, and this ban was not im%ro%erly called ABird 6sletA, being now co"ered with coarse grass, some shrubs, and a soil to which the birds are e"ery day ma ing an increase# Bird 6slet being to windward o!, and only se"en miles distant !rom our

ban , it was !re@uently "isited by the gentlemen during my absence# Besides sea birds o! the s%ecies already mentioned, they %rocured many thousand eggsD and also !our turtle, o! which one weighed -MI %ounds, and contained so many eggs, that lieutenant Fowler's journal says no less than 1I-,, large and small, were counted# These su%%lies, with shell !ish gathered !rom the ree!, and !ish, were a great resource, and admitted o! a sa"ing in the salt %ro"isionsD as the occasional rains, !rom which se"eral cas s were !illed, did o! their !resh water# The Atre%angA was !ound on Grec )ee!, and sou% was attem%ted to be made o! itD but whether our coo s had not the method o! stewing it down, or that the tre%ang is suited only to the "itiated taste o! the 4hinese, nothing good was %roduced 8ats, maiJe, and %um% in seeds were %lanted u%on Grec &)ee! Ban , as also u%on Bird 6sletD and the young %lants had come u%, and were in a tolerably !lourishing stateD some o! these may %ossibly succeed u%on the islet, but u%on the ban it is scarcely to be ho%ed# The cocoa nut is ca%able o! resisting the light s%rays o! the sea which !re@uently %ass o"er these ban s, and it is to be regretted that we had none to %lant u%on them# A cluster o! these majestic and use!ul %alms would ha"e been an eBcellent beacon to warn mariners o! their dangerD and in the case where dar ness might render them una"ailing in this res%ect, their !ruit would at least a!!ord some salutary nourishment to the shi%wrec ed seamen# The na"igator who should distribute ten thousand cocoa nuts amongst the numerous sand ban s o! the Great 8cean and 6ndian 5ea, would be entitled to the gratitude o! all maritime nations, and o! e"ery !riend to humanity# 6 may be thought to attribute too much im%ortance to this object in saying, that such a distribution ought to be a leading article in the instructions !or any succeeding "oyage o! disco"ery or in"estigation to these %artsD but it is !rom ha"ing su!!ered oursel"es that we learn to a%%reciate the mis!ortunes and wants o! others# and become doubly interested in %re"enting or relie"ing them# CThe human heart,C as an elegant author obser"es, Cresembles certain medicinal trees# which yield not their healing balm until they ha"e themsel"es been wounded#C7 .7 'e coeur est comme ces sortes d'arbres, @ui ne donnent leur baume %our les blessures des hommes @ue lors@ue le !er les a blesses euB&memes# 4hateaubriant's AGenie de 4hristianisme, /%isode d' AttalaA#3 49APT/) 666# Passage in the 4umberland to Torres' 5trait# /astern Fields and Pandora's /ntrance# <ew channels amongst the ree!s# Anchorage at 9al!&way 6sland, and under the $or 6sles# Prince o! Gales's 6slands !urther eBamined# Booby 6sle# Passage across the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria# Anchorage at Gessel's 6slands# Passage to 4oe%ang Bay, in TimorD and to Mauritius, where the lea iness o! the 4umberland ma es it necessary to sto%# Anchorage at the Baye du 4a%, and de%arture !or Port 'ouis# ./A5T 48A5T# T8GA)*5 T8))/5' 5T)A6T3 T;/5*A$ 11 84T8B/) 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate 6#?

8n %arting !rom the )olla, at noon 8ct# 11, o!! Bird 6slet, our course was steered <# <# G# by com%ass !or Torres' 5trait# At eight in the e"ening we had run thirteen leagues !rom Grec )ee!, without seeing any dangerD but 6 thought it ad"isable to lie to in the night, until the distance was !urther increased# Ge made sail again at !i"e in the morning .G/*</5*A$ 12 84T8B/) 1E,23, and at noon were in 2, deg# -+' south and 1MM deg# 2' east# *uring the two !ollowing days and nights, our course by com%ass was <# G# by <#, and a!terwards <# G#D and on the 1Mth .5AT;)*A$ 1M 84T8B/) 1E,23 at noon we had reached the latitude 1M deg# 2I' and longitude 1M1 deg# 2-', the current ha"ing set, u%on the a"erage o! !our days, 2L- o! a mile an hour to the G# <# G# This situation was a little to the north, and about one degree to the east o! Bougain"ille's Ban o! *iana, and the tro%ic birds, %etrels, and boobies seen e"ery day were this e"ening more numerous, es%ecially the boobiesD they most %robably belonged to *iana's Ban , but lest some other might lie in our way, we hauled to the wind at eight o'cloc # The little 4umberland was still "ery lea y at such times as the wind came more on the side and caused her to lie o"erD and the %um%s were so bad that a !ourth %art o! the day was !re@uently re@uired at them to ee% her !ree, and they were becoming worse !rom such constant use# 5;<*A$ 1+ 84T8B/) 1E,2 8ur north&west course was resumed at !i"e in the morning, and continued without interru%tion, or sight o! any danger, to the 1Ith .G/*</5*A$ 1I 84T8B/) 1E,23 at noon, when the latitude was 1, deg# M2' south, and longitude by time ee%er 1-K deg# +' eastD the current had set abo"e 2L- o! a mile an hour to the <# +, deg# G#, and we had e"ery day seen boobies, noddies, tro%ic birds, and some gulls# At !our in the a!ternoon the course was altered one %oint more west, in order to ma e the /astern Fields >Atlas, Plate H666?, whose eBtent to the southward, not ha"ing been seen in the 6n"estigator, 6 wished now to ascertain# The brea ers came in sight at eight neBt morning .T9;)5*A$ 2, 84T8B/) 1E,23, and we hauled u% to %ass round their south endD but the wind being scant !or going to windward o! all, and the small ga% be!ore seen in the middle a%%earing to be %assable !or the 4umberland, we bore u% !or it# The de%th at less than a @uarter o! a mile o!! was -, !athoms, then +, K, - in the centre o! the o%ening, E, and no ground with the hand lineD this !ront ree! seeming to be a mere ledge o! coral, which eBtended <# <# /# and 5# 5# G#D and that %art o! the o%ening in it where the sea did not brea , is about one mile wide# 6mmediately on getting through, altitudes were ta en !or the time ee%erD and the longitude, reduced to the north&east eBtremity o! the /astern Fields, was 1-M deg# --1L2' east, or about 1' less than what had been !ound in the 6n"estigator !rom Broad 5ound# 6n steering G# <# G#, two small %atches o! ree! were le!t to the south and one to the north, about !i"e miles !rom the o%eningD other ree!s then came in sight ahead and on each bowD and a!ter sounding in 2- !athoms coral sand, and obser"ing the latitude 1, deg# 2 1L2', we %assed through a narrow channel between them, ha"ing no ground at K !athoms# At one o'cloc , the western eBtremity o! these ree!s bore 5# 1+ deg# /# two miles, and others were seen in the horiJon eBtending !rom <# G# to G# 5# G#D we %assed close round the north end o! theseD but the single brea er laid down the year be!ore, and which should lie about !i"e miles to the <# <# /#, was not %ercei"ed# At three o'cloc , in steering westward, the last ree!s were out o! sight asternD and nothing more had been seen at se"en, when we hauled to the wind !or the night# An am%litude obser"ed at sunset, with the schooner's head G# by 5#, ga"e + deg# 2' east "ariation#

F)6*A$ 21 84T8B/) 1E,2 Ge tac ed e"ery two or three hours, until daylightD and then bore away G# 5# G# by com%ass, to ma e the south side o! the Pandora's /ntrance, which 6 had not seen in the 6n"estigator# 5oon a!ter eight o'cloc , brea ers came in sightD and we stood o!! and on till noon, to !iB their latitude and longitude, and ascertain our %osition with res%ect to Murray's 6slands be!ore entering the 5trait# The sun was "ertical and there!ore di!!icult to be obser"edD but in ta ing Mr# A en's obser"ation on one side and mine on the other, which di!!ered only 21L2', the mean latitude 1, deg# ,1L2', could not be !ar wrong# The ree! in sight was shown by this obser"ation to be on the south side o! the Pandora's /ntrance, as 6 wishedD and its north end will lie in 1, deg# MI' south, and longitude by the time ee%er 1-- deg# -,' east# Ge bore away so soon as the obser"ation was obtained, and in %assing close round the north end, got soundings at two casts, in K and M !athoms# This ree! lies <# <# /# and 5# 5# G#, and is about se"en miles long with a breadth !rom one to three milesD its !orm is nearly that o! a boot, and the outer edges are %robably dry at low tideD but there was a considerable s%ace within, where the water loo ed blue, as i! "ery dee%# The origin o! that class o! islands which abound in the Great 8cean, under the names o! Bow, 'agoon, etc#, may here be traced# The eBterior ban o! coral will, in the course o! years, become land, as in themD whilst the interior water will %reser"e its de%th to a longer %eriod, and !orm a lagoon, with no other outlet than %erha%s one or two little o%enings !or canoes or boats# 6n Mr# *alrym%le's chart o! the Pandora's trac , there is a dry ban mar ed on the north&west %art o! the ree!D but this commencement o! the metamor%hosis was not "isible to us, %robably !rom its being co"ered by the tide, !or it was then near high water# 6n some !uture age, when Boot 6sland shall be "isited, this little remar , it it li"e so long, may be o! some interest to the geogra%her# .<8)T9 48A5T# T8))/5' 5T)A6T#3 6 hauled u% under the lee side o! the ree!, intending to anchor and go in a boat to sound the dee% water withinD but not !inding any ground with K, !athoms at a mile o!!, we bore away at two o'cloc to ma e Murray's 6slands# At three, brea ers were seen !our or !i"e miles to the southward, and others, %erha%s on the same ree!, about three miles G# 5# G# !rom themD in hal! an hour the largest o! Murray's 6slands came in sight to the G# by <#D and our course being continued to siB o'cloc , the centre then bore <# KE deg# G# nearly !our leagues, but the !ront ree!s, which could not be more than hal! that distance in the same direction, were not "isible# Ge then hauled to the wind, and stood o!! and on till daylight .5AT;)*A$ 22 84T8B/) 1E,23, when the largest island bore G# by 5# Murray's 6slands may be considered as the ey to the best %assage yet nown through Torres' 5trait, and my route to them in the 6n"estigator being circuitous, 6 wished to ascertain whether a more direct trac might not be !oundD we there!ore steered to ma e the north&eastern ree!s, and on coming in with the brea ers, ran along their south side at the distance o! one or two miles# At hal! %ast se"en, the termination o! these ree!s bore <# <# G#D but another ree!, which eBtended !ar to the south, had !or some time been in sight, and a dry sand on its north end now bore 5# G# by G# one mile# 6n the o%ening between them was a small %atch o! coral, and se"eral green s%ots in the water round itD but there a%%earing to be room !or the 4umberland to %ass on the north side, 6

"entured through, sounding in 2, and 22 !athoms without !inding bottom# This o%ening is a mile wide, and lies !i"e or siB miles, nearly /# <# /#, !rom the largest o! Murray's 6slandsD it would conse@uently be more direct to %ass through it than to !ollow the 6n"estigator's trac round the north&eastern ree!sD but !rom the narrowness o! the o%ening and the many green s%ots where the de%th is un nown to me, 6 dare not recommend it to a shi%, though "ery %racticable !or small "essels in !ine weather# The dry ban on the south side o! the o%ening will %robably be co"ered at three&@uarters !lood# A!ter clearing the %assage, 6 steered G# <# G# to a"oid going near Murray's 6slands, lest the small siJe o! the 4umberland should tem%t the 6ndians to ma e an attac D this they were li ely to do i! the o%%ortunity o!!ered, and many were standing on the shore with their canoes seemingly in readiness# At Eh M,' the large island bore 5# + deg# /# to 12 deg# G#, three or !our milesD and our %osition in longitude being "ery nearly the same with that o! my !ormer anchorage, altitudes were ta en !or the time ee%er# The result, when corrected, was 1-- deg# 2' ,C east, and in the 6n"estigator it had been 1-- deg# 2' MEC, being a di!!erence scarcely worth notice# Ghen it is considered that Grec )ee!, whence the 4umberland's de%arture was ta en, and 4oe%ang in Timor, by which the longitude is corrected, are laid down !rom obser"ations wholly distinct !rom those at ;%%er 9ead and 5weers' 6sland, which regulated the 6n"estigator's longitude, this near coincidence will be thought remar ableD and it must also be allowed to show, that an e@ually accelerated rate and su%%lemental correction are im%ro"ements on the ordinary management o! time ee%ers# At this time, the large ree! to the north o! Murray's 6slands was distant one or two miles, and we steered westward along it, to get into my !ormer trac D but the man at the mast head saying that the water was discoloured, and that he did not thin there was any %assage in the direction we steered, 6 thought mysel! decei"ed in the distance o! the islandD and the schooner was hauled u% two %oints to the southward, where the a%%earance was better# 6t became e"ident, howe"er, that the discoloured water was in the same ri%%lings o! tide through which the 6n"estigator had %assed without !inding bottom at 2, !athomsD and no doubt it was !rom these ri%%lings that the discolouring arose# At ten o'cloc , the to% o! the largest island bore 5# K- deg# /# !i"e or siB miles, we had ree!s at the distance o! hal! a mile to a mile on each beam, and 6 then !ound that we were to the south o! the 6n"estigator's trac D but the channel being clear ahead, and ta ing a direction nearly straight !or 4a%e $or , 6 steered onward, being rather %leased than sorry at ha"ing thus got by accident into a new route# *arnley's 6sland was seen !rom the mast head be!ore ele"enD and when the to% o! Murray's 6sland bore /# 1 deg# 5# it was set at <# <# G#, the de%th being then M2 !athoms on a bottom o! small stones, coral, and shells# The great line o! ree!s which had been e%t on the larbord beam o! the 6n"estigator, was now on the starbord beam o! the schoonerD but we had also a great mass o! ree!s on the other side, !orming between them a ind o! channel !rom two to !our miles broad, leading south&westward# Ge ran on at the rate o! !i"e nots until noon, when the de%th was 2M !athoms, so!t sand, and our situation as under, 'atitude obser"ed to the south, I deg# ME1L2' 'ongitude brought on, 1-2 -M

Murray's 6#, to% o! the largest, <# KE /# Murray's 6#, south&westernmost, <# E2 /# The channel was now !i"e or siB miles wide, and no interru%tion yet a%%earedD but brea ers were seen a&head be!ore two o'cloc , and seemed to connect the ree!s to leeward with those on the weather sideD and there being a small o%ening on the starbord beam, we bore away north&west through it, towards the 6n"estigator's trac # 8ther ree!s, howe"er, obstructed the way, u%on one o! which was a dry ban D and seeing a sort o! middle channel within them, we hauled u% G# by 5# into it, and a!terwards 5# G# The sea did not brea u%on these ree!s, and the sun being on the starbord bow, %re"ented us !rom nowing how they lay to leeward# At !our, the coral bottom was seen under the schooner, and the de%th was no more than 2 !athomsD we tac ed immediately, and in ten minutes were able to weather the end o! the ree! at the outlet o! the middle channel, where no obstruction a%%earedD but a ban , %robably not o! coral, was !ound to run across, and in %assing o"er it we had 2, 11L2, 2, 2, E !athoms, and in !i"e minutes 22 on a so!t bottom# A swell was then %ercei"ed coming !rom /# 5# /#, which showed that the weather ree!s also there terminatedD it e"en im%lied that the wa"es had no obstruction !or many miles, %robably as !ar as the great outer ree! seen by the Pandora# 9al!&way 6sland came in sight as soon as the middle channel was cleared, and we steered west, carrying all sail to reach it be!ore dar # 6n %assing round the north end o! its ree! at sunset, we had 1E !athoms, and %resently anchored in 2,, with the centre o! the island bearing 5# by /# 1L2 /# one mile, and the ree! !rom /# 1L2 5# to 5# G# by 5# <eBt morning at daylight .5;<*A$ 22 84T8B/) 1E,23, Mr# A en went on shore to bring o!! some shells o! the large coc le >Achama gigasA?, which the 6ndians %lace under the %andanus trees to catch water, and on his return at eight o'cloc , we resumed our course to the south&westward, %assing between some dry sands be!ore seen in the 6n"estigator# 6 then e%t u% more southward to !etch the $or 6sles, and this too us between two other sands surrounded with small ree!s# There were many birds, and a %ole was standing u% on the northern ban D and the wind becoming "ery light, an anchor was dro%%ed in 1- !athoms under the west side, and 6 went on shore# This ban or ey was "ery little abo"e high waterD but a young %andanus had been %lanted on the to% and surrounded with a circle o! stones, a%%arently to %rotect it !rom the turtle, whose trac s were !resh on the sand# 6t a%%eared !rom thence, that the 6ndians come here at timesD and this tree had been %lanted with a "iew, most %robably, to obtain !resh water by the same means as at 9al!&way 6sland# The latitude o! the ban , according to Mr# A en's meridian obser"ation, is 1, deg# 1E' south, longitude by the time ee%er 1-2 deg# +' east, and there is a similar ban lying two or three miles to the southward# 8n my return the south&east trade had !reshened u%, and we steered 5# G# by com%ass, in soundings !rom 12 to 11 !athoms, so!t ground# 5ome o! the small woody isles be!ore laid down, were seen to the north&westward, but nothing else till !our o'cloc D the high !lat&to%%ed $or 6sle then came in sight, and at siB the !ollowing bearings were set# Mount Adol%hus, the !lat to%, Two roc s on its south side, 5# 22 deg# G# 5# 1K G#

Gestern $or 6sle, the north end, 5# +I G# A low distant isle >!rom the mast head?, 5 1L2 /# 6 %ur%osed anchoring between the !lat&to%%ed island and the western isleD but se"eral roc s being seen there, and the night coming on, we bore away to leeward o! the roc s and came to in 12 !athoms, soon a!ter se"en o'cloc # The tide was setting to the westward, and so continued till hal! %ast nine, when it turned to the east, and ran till hal! %ast three in the morning .M8<*A$ 2- 84T8B/) 1E,23D i! the rise by the shore corres%onded with the stream, it was high water Athree hours and a hal! a!terA the moon's %assageD which would be !i"e hours later than at Murray's 6slands, and one hour earlier than it had a%%eared to be at those o! the Prince o! Gales >see 4h# V, 1 <o"ember?# A !resh breeJe !rom south&east raised a swell here, but the anchor held all nightD and be!ore getting under way neBt morning, 6 set the !ollowing bearings o! the land# Flat&to%%ed 6#, distant three miles 5# -2 deg# to 2 deg# /# Flat&to%%ed 6#, centre o! Mount Adol%hus, 5# 22 /# 4# $or , outer o! three islets near the /# eBtreme, 5# 2 /# Gestern $or 6#, distant 11L2 miles 5# 1E to EE G# <orthern double 6#, im%er!ectly !rom alo!t, <# G# by G#1L2 G# 8n %assing the north end o! the western isle at se"en o'cloc , 6 too altitudes !or the time ee%er, and !rom thence deduced the longitude o! Mount Adol%hus to be 1-2 deg# -,' eastD we then hauled u% !or 4a%e $or , with soundings between 1- and 1, !athoms, lea"ing on the starbord hand a roc which lies 5# KE deg# G# !i"e miles !rom the north end o! the western isle# At hal! %ast eight, two roc s close to the northern eBtremity o! the 4a%e were distant !our or !i"e miles, the Prince o! Gales's 6slands were coming in sight, and the !ollowing bearings were ta en# Gestern $or 6sle, north end, <# K, deg# /# 4# $or , north eBtreme, 5# ME /# 4# $or , hill at the north&west eBtreme, 5# 11 G# Possession 6sle, a%%arently, o! ca%t# 4oo , 5# 2+ deg# to 22 G# <orthern double 6sle, centre, <orth# 8n the largest o! the Prince o! Gales' 6slands was a hill !orming something li e two horns at the to%D we steered a direct course !or this hill, and %ercei"ed a bight or o%ening two miles to the south o! it, by which the sea may %robably ha"e a communication with the water be!ore obser"ed within the great island# From abreast o! 9orned 9ill we !ollowed the line o! the shore northward, in soundings !rom - to K !athoms at one or two miles o!!D and soon a!ter ten o'cloc hauled west into the o%ening between this land and Gednesday 6sland, to %ass through the middle o! the grou%# 8ur soundings were "ariable between M and 2 !athoms, until a%%roaching 9ammond's 6slandD when there not a%%earing to be de%th enough on its south side, 6 steered out northward, lea"ing a roc on the starbord hand within which there was only 2 !athoms# This roc seems to be the small, dar &coloured island described by Mr# 9amilton as being near the centre o! 5andwich 5ound >see 6ntroduction?D and i! so, Gol!'s Bay, in which he says there is !rom M to K !athoms and

commodious anchorage !or shi%%ing, should be that inclosed %iece o! water seen !rom the to% o! Good's 6slandD but to me at this time, there did not a%%ear to be any shi% %assage into it !rom the northward# An island lies at the entrance, and on its west side the de%th may %robably be more considerable# 8n getting out !rom between Gednesday and 9ammond's 6slands, we steered along the south side o! the great north&western ree!D and at noon our obser"ation and bearings were as under# 'atitude obser"ed to the north, 1, deg# 21' 9ammond's 6#, the north roc dist# 2 miles, <# K2 /# Good's 6#, !ormer station on the 5# G# hill, 5# 22 G# 9aw esbury 6#, the highest %art, <# 1- G# Booby 6sle was in sight !rom the mast head at one o'cloc , bearing nearly G# 5# G#D and soon a!ter three we anchored one mile to leeward o! it, in K !athoms, so!t sand# A boat was sent on shore, which %resently came bac loaded with boobiesD and !resh turtle trac s ha"ing been %ercei"ed, the crew returned to watch, and at midnight we recei"ed !i"e turtle# These a%%eared to be o! the s%ecies called haw es&billD the shells and s ins, as also their !at, were o! a red tinge, and they had longer nec s than the turtle %rocured at Gellesley's 6slands, to which they were much in!erior, both in siJe and @uality# Ghen entering the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria in the 6n"estigator, 6 had remar ed what a%%eared to be a considerable error in the relati"e %ositions o! Booby 6sle and the !lat&to%%ed $or 6sland, as they are laid down by ca%tain 4oo D and to obtain more certainty, the longitude o! the !lat to% had been obser"ed this morning !rom the time ee%er, and 6 anchored here this a!ternoon to do the same by Booby 6sle# The result showed the di!!erence o! longitude between them to be -21L2', di!!ering less than 1' !rom what had been deduced in the 6n"estigator, whereas, by ca%tain 4oo , they are %laced +2' asunder# The high res%ect to which the labours o! that great man are entitled, had caused me to entertain some doubt o! the reality o! this error until the %resent "eri!ication# 6t is to be wholly ascribed to the circumstance o! his not ha"ing had a time ee%er in his A!irstA "oyageD and a more eminent %roo! o! the utility o! this "aluable instrument cannot be gi"en, than that so able a na"igator could not always a"oid ma ing errors so considerable as this, when de%ri"ed o! its assistance# A meridian altitude o! the moon %laced Booby 6sle in latitude 1, deg# 2+' southD and the longitude !rom a medium o! the 6n"estigator's and 4umberland's time ee%ers, was 1-1 deg# M+1L2' east# A morning's am%litude ta en a!ter @uitting the isle when the schooner's head was G# by 5#, ga"e the uncorrected "ariation M deg# 2E' east# T;/5*A$ 2M 84T8B/) 1E,2 At daybrea neBt morning, ha"ing a !resh trade wind, we steered G# by 5# by com%ass, the soundings increasing gradually !rom K !athoms to 12 at noon, when our latitude was 1, deg# 2E' and longitude 1-1 deg# 1K'# <o ree!s or other dangers had been seen to the west o! Booby 6sleD nor were any met with in steering across the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria towards 4a%e Gilber!orce >Atlas, Plate H6V?, though many birds, %rinci%ally boobies, were seen e"ery day# Ge ran in the night, with the %recaution o! hea"ing to e"ery

!our hours, to soundD the de%th was !rom 2, to 2+ !athoms on a muddy bottom, nearly all across the Gul%h# F)6*A$ 2E 84T8B/) 1E,2 >Atlas, Plate HV#? 8n 2Eth at two in the morning, 4a%e Gilber!orce being seen directly ahead, we ho"e to in 1E !athoms till daylightD the south&east eBtreme o! the ca%e then bore 5# M- deg# G, and the largest o! Bromby's 6sles was two miles distant to the northward# A!ter ma ing some short tac s, we %assed through between the two outer isles, with soundings !rom + to 11 !athomsD and at ten o'cloc , when clear o! the %assage, the bearings o! the nearest lands were as under( Bromby's 6#, the largest, cli!!y 5# /# end, 5# 2- deg# G# Bromby's 6#, outermost, highest %art, dist# 11L- m#, 5# M, /# Truant 6sle, centre, <# 2K /# Two islets, dist# M miles, centres, <# 2- deg# and 22 G# Gigram's 6sland, eBtremes, <# MM to 5# EK G# The longitude o! our situation according to the %ositions laid down in the 6n"estigator, would be 12+ deg# -1' 1,C, and the time ee%er now ga"e 12+ deg# -2' 12C# 6t was %rinci%ally !or the sa e o! com%aring the two longitudes, that 6 made the land near 4a%e Gilber!orce# .<8)T9 48A5T# G/55/''5 65'A<*5#3 Ge steered northward !or the two islets, and at noon, when the latitude !rom an obser"ation to the south was 11 deg# -2', but !rom bearings 11 deg# -2', they were distant three @uarters o! a mile to the G# by 5#D these islets had been set !rom the south&east head o! 4otton's 6sland at <# -2 deg# 2M' to -M deg# M' /#, and that head was now seen bearing 5# -M1L- deg# G# At one o'cloc the Gessel's 6slands came in sight, and 6 hauled more u%, wishing to ascertain their eBtent to the northwardD but the wind being at /# <# /, we could not %ass to windward be!ore dar , and there!ore steered !or an o%ening between the two outer islands# There were strong ri%%lings and whirl%ools o! tide at the entrance o! the o%ening, with "ery "ariable soundings between M and 1+ !athomsD and !inding we could not get through in time, the sun being then near the horiJon, an anchor was dro%%ed near a small beach on the north side, in - !athoms, out o! the set o! the tides# 5AT;)*A$ 2I 84T8B/) 1E,2 <eBt morning 6 landed on the northern island, to ta e bearings and search !or water, and the boat's crew had aBes to cut some !ire wood# Four or !i"e 6ndians made their a%%earance, but as we ad"anced they retiredD and 6 there!ore le!t them to themsel"es, ha"ing usually !ound that to bring on an inter"iew with the Australians, it was best to seem careless about it# A Malay %row had been thrown on the beach, and whilst the boat's crew was busied in cutting u% the wrec !or !uel, the 6ndians a%%roached gradually, and a !riendly intercourse too %laceD but as no water could be !ound, and time was more %recious than the com%any o! these %eo%le, they were %resented with our aBes a!ter the wor was done, and we got under way soon a!ter ten o'cloc #

This island a%%ears to be the outermost o! the chain called Gessel's 6slands, which eBtend thirteen leagues in a north&east direction !rom the main land near Point *ale# 6t seemed to be eight or nine miles in length, by about !i"e in breadthD the southern %art is sandy and sterile, but some trees are %roducedD and 6 saw angaroos o! a small ind, too lean to be worth the %ursuit their shyness re@uired# The nati"es are o! the same colour and a%%earance as in other %arts o! Terra Australis, and go e@ually na edD their %resence here showed the south end o! the island to be not wholly destitute o! !resh waterD but in the limited search we had time to ma e, none could be !ound, though traces o! torrents denoted the !alling o! hea"y rains in some %art o! the year# The island to the south&west, which is o! somewhat greater eBtent, though less in ele"ation, had much the same a%%earance# A distance o! two miles between the islands seems to %resent a !air o%eningD but there is a ree! o! low roc s on the west side, and the ri%%lings and whirl%ools caused by the meeting o! the tides ta e away the command o! a "essel in light windsD so that, although 6 went through sa!ely in the 4umberland, the %assage can be recommended to a Ashi%A only in a case o! necessity# The latitude o! our anchorage under the northern island, !rom a su%%lement o! the moon's meridian altitude, was 11 deg# 22L2' southD and the longitude by time ee%er, !rom altitudes o! the star AAltairA, 12+ deg# 2E1L2' east, but it is %laced in 1' less, con!ormably to the %ositions !iBed in the 6n"estigator# A head land seen in latitude 11 deg# 1E', was %robably the northern eBtremity o! this island, and o! the whole chainD at least nothing beyond it could be %ercei"ed# .<8)T9 48A5T# T8GA)*5 T6M8)#3 6n steering out o! the channel we were carried near the western roc s by the tideD but the water was dee%, and a breeJe soon too the schooner out o! its in!luence# At noon our obser"ed latitude was 11 deg# 21', the northern island bore <# +K deg# to 5# -E deg# /, and the !urthest %art o! the southern land 5# M deg# G#D the wind was light at north&east, and until midnight we steered north&west to get o!! the coastD our course was then more westward towards Timor, where 6 %ro%osed to sto% !or a su%%ly o! water and %ro"isions# >Atlas, Plate 6#? <8V/MB/) 1E,2 A moderate trade wind, coming generally !rom 5# /# in the !irst %art, and /# <# /# in the latter %art o! the day, carried us to the longitude o! the northern 4a%e Van *iemenD beyond that, the winds were light and "ariable, and !re@uently at south&west, which alarmed me lest the un!a"ourable monsoon should set in be!ore we could get !ar enough to be out o! its in!luence# <o"# + at noon .5;<*A$ + <8V/MB/) 1E,23, our latitude was I deg# 2E' south, longitude 12K deg# 12' east >Atlas, Plate HV6?, and 6 was sur%rised to see already the high land o! Timor eBtending !rom <# 1L2 G# to G# <# G#D the !irst was %robably the north&east eBtremity o! the island, and distant about twenty&three leagues, but the high land in the latter bearing could scarcely be nearer than thirty&!i"e leagues# This distance, with ten !eet ele"ation o! the eye on the schooner's dec , would gi"e the height to be more than I,,, !eet, had it been seen in the horiJon, but it was %erce%tibly abo"e, and this land is there!ore %robably not much in!erior to the %ea o! Teneri!!e# 6 did not measure its altitude abo"e the horiJon with a seBtant, or the ele"ation might ha"e been more nearly ascertained# The westward current had hitherto not eBceeded hal! a mile an hourD but

the neBt day it was one mile, and on the day !ollowing .T;/5*A$ E <8V/MB/) 1E,23 one and a @uarter to the G# 5# G# Ge had then regained the trade wind, and our situation at noon was 1, deg# 21L2' south and 12M deg# 1M' eastD the northern %art o! Timor was obscured by haJe, the nearest land "isible bore <# KM deg# G# about eight leagues, and the southern eBtreme G# M deg# 5# 8n the Ith .G/*</5*A$ I <8V/MB/) 1E,23, the round hill u%on )ottee came in sight, and bore 5# KE deg# G# at noon, when our latitude was 1, deg# 221L-' south and longitude 12- deg# ,' east# Ge carried all sail to gain 5amow 5trait be!ore dar D but it was eight o'cloc when we hauled round the low south&west %oint o! Timor, in soundings !rom + to 1- !athoms, within a @uarter o! a mile o! the ree!# There were lights on both shores, which were use!ul in directing our course u% the straitD but ha"ing un!a"ourable winds, the northern outlet was not @uite reached at noon neBt day .T9;)5*A$ 1, <8V/MB/) 1E,23D and it was near !i"e in the e"ening be!ore we anchored abreast o! Fort 4oncordia# This was the thirtieth day o! our de%arture !rom Grec )ee!, and two days might be deducted !rom them !or the de"iations and sto%%ages made !or sur"eyingD the indi!!erent sailing o! the schooner was also against ma ing a @uic %assage, !or with all the sail we could set, so much as siB nots was not mar ed on the log boardD yet notwithstanding these hindrances, and the much greater o! my siB&wee s "oyage in the boat to Port :ac son and twel"e days stay at Grec )ee!, the Bridgewater had arri"ed at Bata"ia only !our days be!ore we anchored in 4oe%ang Bay# 9ad not the un!ortunate accident ha%%ened to the Por%oise, 6 ha"e little doubt that we could, with the su%erior sailing o! that shi%, ha"e reached the longitude o! :a"a 9ead on the !ortieth, %erha%s on the thirty&!i!th day o! our de%arture !rom Port :ac son# .AT T6M8)# 48/PA<G BA$#3 Mynheer Geisler, the !ormer go"ernor o! 4oe%ang, died a month be!ore our arri"al, and Mr# ViertJen at this time commanded# 9e su%%lied us with almost e"ery thing our situation re@uired, and endea"oured to ma e my time %ass as %leasantly as was in his %ower, !urnishing me with a house near the !ort to which 6 too the time ee%er and instruments to ascertain a new rate and errorD but my anBious desire to reach /ngland, and the a%%rehension o! being met by the north&west monsoon be!ore %assing :a"a, induced me to lea"e him as soon as we could be ready to sail, which was on the !ourth day# The schooner had continued to be "ery lea y whene"er the wind caused her to lie o"er on the side, and one o! the %um%s had nearly become uselessD 6 should ha"e ris ed staying two or three days longer, had 4oe%ang !urnished the means o! !resh boring and !itting the %um%s, or i! %itch could ha"e been %rocured to %ay the seams in the u%%er wor s a!ter they were caul edD but no assistance in this way could be obtainedD we howe"er got a lea sto%%ed in the bow, and the "essel was a!terwards tight so long as she remained at anchor# Mr# ViertJen in!ormed me that ca%tain Baudin had arri"ed at 4oe%ang near a month a!ter 6 had le!t it in the 6n"estigator, and had sailed early in :une !or the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD and 6 a!terwards learned, that being delayed by calms and o%%osed by south&east winds, he had not reached 4a%e Arnhem when his %eo%le and himsel! began to be sic lyD and !earing that the north&west monsoon might return be!ore his eBamination was !inished, and ee% him in the Gul%h beyond the eBtent o! his %ro"isions, he abandoned the "oyage and steered !or Mauritius in his way to /uro%e# The situation o! Fort 4oncordia is considered to be 1, deg# I1L-' south and 122' 2M' -+C east, according to the obser"ations made in the 6n"estigator >see 4h# 6H?# 6 too altitudes with a seBtant and arti!icial horiJon on

the 11th, 12th, 12th, and 1-th, !or the rate o! the time ee%er, which, with its error !rom mean Greenwich time at noon there on the last day o! obser"ation, was !ound to be as under( /arnshaw's <o# M2,, slow ,h 22' MI#I1C and losing 2+#K-C %er day# From the !irst obser"ation on the 11th %#m#, the longitude gi"en with the rate !rom Grec )ee!, was 122 deg# -E' 2-C, or 12' -EC too !ar eastD but on using a rate e@ually accelerated !rom that !ound at Grec )ee! to this at 4oe%ang, the time ee%er will di!!er only ,' -,C to the east, which is the %resumable amount o! its irregularities between 8ct# + at noon and <o"# 11 %#m#, or in 2+#2 days# The longitudes o! my trac !rom Grec )ee! to Timor ha"e been corrected agreeably to the accelerated rate, with the !urther allowance o! a %art o! the su%%lemental error ,' -,C, %ro%ortionate to the time o! each obser"ationD but in Torres' 5trait, the situations are !iBed !rom a medium o! the longitudes so obtained and o! those o! the 6n"estigator with the corrections s%eci!ied in 4h# V6#, %recedingD the di!!erence between them no where eBceeding 11L2' o! longitude# .F)8M T6M8)# T8GA)*5 MA;)6T6;5#3 M8<*A$ 1- <8V/MB/) 1E,2 8n the e"ening o! the 1-th we sailed !rom 4oe%ang, and ha"ing %assed round the north end o! Pulo 5amow, steered south&westward with a !air breeJeD but the wind being light, and a!terwards "eering to 5# 5# G#, our %rogress was slow# At sunset on the 1+th .G/*</5*A$ 1+ <8V/MB/) 1E,23, the island 5a"u was seen to the <# G# by <#, and neBt morning .T9;)5*A$ 1K <8V/MB/) 1E,23 at siB o'cloc , the !ollowing bearings were ta en# 5a"u#, the highest %art, <# 2I deg# /# Benjoar, a round hill on it, <# 22 /# A roc y islet, distant 2 leagues, <# -E G# At noon, the roc y islet bore <# +2 deg# /#, and its %osition was ascertained to be 1, deg# -I1L2' south and 122 deg# -I' east# A small low island is laid down by admiral *'/ntrecasteauB, about three leagues to the north&west o! this %osition, and had been %re"iously seen by ca%tain 4oo in 1KK,D it seems %ossible that these may be one and the same island, !or the situation in *'/ntrecasteauB's chart is mar ed Adoubt!ulAD but they are both laid down in Plate HV6#, and such additions made to what little could be distinguished o! 5a"u and Benjoar, as *'/ntrecasteauB, 4oo , Bligh# and *alrym%le could !urnish# 6t was my intention on @uitting Timor, i! the lea y condition o! the schooner and the north&west monsoon did not o%%ose it, to %ass southward o! all the 5unda 6slands and direct !or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%eD but i! im%eded, to run through some one o! the eastern straits, get into the north&east monsoon, and ma e !or Bata"ia, or any %ort where the "essel could be re%aired# The "eering o! the wind to the westward o! south, accom%anied by a swell and the occasional a%%earance o! lightning in the north&western @uarter, made me a%%rehensi"e o! being !orced to this latter %lanD and we %re%ared a boarding netting to de!end us against the Malay %irates, with which the straits between :a"a and Timor were said to be in!estedD the wind howe"er came bac to the eastward, although the south&west swell continued, and we had !re@uent rain with sometimes

thunder and lightning# F)6*A$ 2M <8V/MB/) 1E,2 8n the 2Mth, our latitude was 12 deg# -E' and longitude 1,2 deg# +', which was %ast the meridian o! :a"a 9ead, and beyond the ordinary limits o! the north&west monsoon# The schooner was lea y, more so than be!ore, and the %um%s were getting worseD but ho%ing to reach the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, 6 had wholly gi"en u% the idea o! Bata"ia as lying too !ar out o! the trac D Mauritius besides was in the way, should the "essel become inca%able o! doubling the 4a%e without re%airs# 8ur course by com%ass was G# by 5# !or three days, and a!terwards G# 5# G#, with !resh south&eastern breeJes and cloudy weatherD but in the u%%er regions o! the atmos%here the wind was unsettled, showers o! rain were !re@uent, and it a%%eared that we were only just in time to sa"e our %assage# 8n the -th o! *ecember, in 1I deg# 2' south and E2 deg# M,' east, we had a good deal o! !ollowing sea !rom the eastward, whilst the ground swell came !rom the south&westD and the jumble caused by these di!!erent mo"ements in the water made the "essel labour eBceedingly# 6 "aried the course a %oint on either side, to ee% the wind in the easiest directionD but during this and the !ollowing day the lea s augmented so much, that the starbord %um%, which was alone e!!ecti"e, was obliged to be wor ed almost continually, day and nightD and had the wind been on the starbord side, it is doubt!ul whether the schooner could ha"e been e%t abo"e water# This state o! things made it necessary to ta e into serious consideration the %ro%riety o! attem%ting the %assage round the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, without !irst ha"ing the "essel caul ed and the %um%s !resh bored and !itted# 5hould a western wind meet the current setting round the 4a%e, and it was to be eB%ected, there would be much more sea running than we had yet encounteredD and with a !resh wind on the starbord side, which might %robably occur, the remaining %um% would not touch the water until the hold was hal! !ullD there was moreo"er cause to !ear, that it also would soon become ine!!ecti"e !rom constant use# A!ter turning these circumstances o"er in my mind !or a day or two, and considering what else might be urged both !or and against the measure, 6 determined to %ut in at MauritiusD and on the +th in the e"ening .T;/5*A$ + */4/MB/) 1E,23, altered the course hal! a %oint !or that island, to the satis!action o! the %eo%le# .AT MA;)6T6;5# BA$/ *; 4AP#3 6n the orders !rom go"ernor =ing, the %orts to be touched at on the way to /ngland were le!t to my own choiceD but when Mauritius had been mentioned amongst others in con"ersation, the go"ernor had objected to it, both on account o! the hurricanes in that neighbourhood, and !rom not wishing to encourage a communication between a French colony and a settlement com%osed as is that o! Port :ac son# 6t was these considerations which had made me hesitate to ta e the ste%, though the necessity !or it was %ressingD and as, in the case o! accident ha%%ening to the schooner, 6 might be called to answer be!ore a court martial !or going in o%%osition to the wish o! a su%erior o!!icer, it seemed %ro%er to state in my journal all the reasons which had any in!luence on my decision# This journal is not in my %ossessionD but notes o! the statement were made whilst the recollection o! it was strong, and the !ollowing was the substance and not !ar !rom the words#

1# The necessity o! caul ing the schooner and re!itting the %um%s be!ore attem%ting to double the 4a%e, were stated nearly as abo"eD to which was added a ho%e o! obtaining a %assage in a shi% where my de!aced charts and journals, which remained untouched !rom the time o! the shi%wrec , might be %ut into a state to be laid be!ore the Admiralty on arri"ing in /ngland# 6n the case o! meeting with such a %assage, 6 intended to let the 4umberland !or !reight bac to Port :ac son, or to sell her, agreeably to the authority gi"en me in go"ernor =ing's orders# 2# 4onsidering the %roBimity o! Mauritius to the western coasts o! Terra Australis, which remained to be eBamined, 6 was desirous to see in what state it had been le!t by the re"olution, and to gain a %ractical nowledge o! the %ort and %eriodical windsD with a "iew to its being used in the !uture %art o! my "oyage as a %lace o! re!itting and re!reshment, !or which Port :ac son was at an incon"enient distance# 6t was also desirable to now how !ar Mauritius, and its de%endencies in Madagascar which 6 new to abound in cattle, could be use!ul to Port :ac son in su%%lying it with breeding stoc D an object concerning which the go"ernor had eB%ressed anBiety !or in!ormation !rom any %lace on the east side o! the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# 2# The two letters !rom go"ernor =ing to general Magallon, go"ernor o! Mauritius, instead o! being !orwarded !rom the 4a%e might be deli"ered in %erson# -# 6 was a stranger to what had %assed in /uro%e !or nearly twel"e months, and there was conse@uently a %ossibility that war might again ha"e bro en outD my %ass%ort !rom the French go"ernment would be good at Mauritius, but in going to the 4a%e, it was uncertain what attention the *utch go"ernor might %ay to the orders o! the !irst consul o! FranceD and as %romoters and encouragers o! science, the character o! the nation was not so high as to gi"e me great eB%ectation on that head# Mauritius was there!ore much more certain than the 4a%e, since the necessary succour would be there obtained e"en in case o! warD whereas at the 4a%e there might be a ris o! losing my charts and journals and o! being made a %risoner# These reasons !or sto%%ing at Mauritius as we %assed by it, in addition to the necessity arising !rom the state o! the schooner, were written in my rough journal !or re!erence, without any idea o! their being criticised, or e"en seen by any other than mysel!D and 6 ha"e been %articular in detailing them, on account o! the uneB%ected occurrences with which they became connected# F)6*A$ I */4/MB/) 1E,2 8n the e"ening o! the Ith, a shi% was seen to the northward, and we sought to s%ea her !or in!ormationD but night coming on the sight o! her was lost, and we resumed our western course# 6 had no chart o! Mauritius, nor other descri%tion than what is contained in the third edition o! the /ncyclo%edia BritannicaD this in!ormed me that Port 'ouis was on the north&west side o! the island, but not o! the route usually ta en to reach itD and the %re"ailing wind being south&east, it seemed to be a matter o! indi!!erenceD 6 there!ore steered to ma e the middle o! the island, intending to go by the north or south sides as the wind might ha%%en to !a"our most# 8n the 1Mth .T9;)5*A$ 1M */4/MB/) 1E,23 be!ore daylight, the land was seen, and the wind being /# by 5# we hauled to the northward# Ghen the day bro e the island was se"en or eight miles o!!, and bore !rom 5# -2 deg# to <# M1 deg# G#D but there was a distant round lum%,

whether connected with it did not a%%ear, which bore <# by G#D and !inding the schooner could not clear it, !rom the sea running high and current setting to leeward, we "eered round and steered southward along the edge o! a ree! which eBtends !our or !i"e miles !rom this %art o! the island# 5oon a!ter eight o'cloc we %assed three !lat roc s within the ree!, lying, as 6 now su%%ose, at the entrance o! Port BourbonD the eBtremes o! the island then bore <# 1 deg# to 5# +I deg# G#, and a stee% %oint <# 2I deg# G# !i"e or siB miles# 6n steering westward along the shore, loo ing out !or boats or "essels to gain in!ormation, a !lag was seen u%on one o! the hillsD our colours were then hoisted, and a!terwards a French jac at the !ore&to%&mast head, as a signal !or a %ilot# At noon, the obser"ed latitude was 2, deg# 2-' south, and the eBtremes o! the island bore <# M- deg# /# to +1 deg# G# There was a small town bearing <# by /# two or three miles, !rom whence a schooner had come out, and being ahead we made sail to s%ea herD but she hauled in towards the shore until we had %assed, and then stood a!ter us# 8n our hea"ing to, the schooner again steered !or a %lace where some "essels were seen at anchor, and 6 began to ta e her mo"ements as an intimation that we should go in there !or a %ilotD accordingly we !ollowed her through a narrow %ass in the ree!s, and anchored in 21L2 !athoms, in a small ree! harbour which 6 a!terwards understood was called the ABaye du 4a%A# 6! the schooner's actions were strange be!ore, those o! the %eo%le were now more soD !or no sooner was their anchor dro%%ed, than without !urling the sails they went hastily on shore in a canoe, and made the best o! their way u% a stee% hill, one o! them with a trun on his shoulder# They were met by a %erson who, !rom the %lume in his hat, a%%eared to be an o!!icer, and %resently we saw se"eral men with mus ets on the to% o! the hillD this ga"e another "iew o! the schooner's mo"ements, and caused me to a%%rehend that /ngland and France were either at war or "ery near it# To induce some %erson to come on board, 6 held u% the letters !or general Magallon, the go"ernorD but this being to no %ur%ose, Mr# A en went on shore in our little boat, ta ing with him the letters and French %ass%ortD in a short time he returned with the o!!icer and two others, and 6 learned to my great regret that war was actually declared# The o!!icer, whose name was A*unien"illeA, s%o e a little /nglishD he as ed i! 6 were the ca%tain Flinders mentioned in the %ass%ort, whether we had been shi%wrec ed, and to see my commission# 9a"ing %erused it, he %olitely o!!ered his ser"ices, in@uired what were our immediate wants, and in"ited me to go on shore and dine with him, it being then near three o'cloc # 6 eB%lained my wish to ha"e a %ilot !or Port <orth&Gest >the name at that time !or Port 'ouis?, since it a%%eared no re%arations could be done in the little bay, and re@uested to ha"e a cas or two o! water# The %ilot was %romised !or the neBt day, and Mons# *unien"ille sent a canoe !or our em%ty cas s and the master o! the French schooner to moor the 4umberland in a secure %lace# My %ass%ort was in French, and being a stranger to the language, 6 had had its general %ur%ort eB%lained on !irst recei"ing it !rom the AdmiraltyD but !rom that time, and more es%ecially a!ter the %reliminaries o! %eace had reached Port :ac son, the %ass%ort had scarcely been loo ed at, and my nowledge o! its contents was "ery im%er!ect# Ghen the o!!icer was gone, 6 set mysel! to consider it attenti"elyD and so !ar as 6 could ma e out, it seemed to be solely !or the 6n"estigator, and without %ro"ision !or any other "essel in which the loss o! the shi%, or her inca%acity to %ursue the "oyage might oblige me to embar # The intention, no doubt, was to %rotect the "oyage generally,

and not the 6n"estigator in %articularD but it a%%eared that i! the go"ernor o! Mauritius should adhere to the letter o! the %ass%ort and disregard the intention, he might seiJe the 4umberland as a %riJeD and the idea o! being detained e"en a wee more than necessary was intolerable# 6 in@uired o! the %ilot whether the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e belonged to the *utch or /nglishD almost determining, should it not ha"e been gi"en u% be!ore the war commenced, to attem%t the %assage at all ris s, rather than incur the haJard o! being sto%%edD but the 4a%e was in the hands o! the *utch# An hour a!ter M# *unien"ille had been gone, we saw him returning with another o!!icer who %ro"ed to be his su%erior in ran D and they had with them a gentleman who s%o e /nglish intelligibly# My %ass%ort and commission were demanded in a rough manner, and a!ter the o!!icer had eBamined them with the assistance o! his inter%reter, he obser"ed that the %ass%ort was not !or the 4umberland, and re@uired an eB%lanationD ha"ing recei"ed it, he said it was necessary that both commission and %ass%ort should be sent to the go"ernor, and that 6 should remain with the "essel till an answer was returned# To this arrangement 6 objected, alleging that since war was declared, these %a%ers were my sole %rotection and could not be gi"en u%D but i! co%ies would do they might be ta en# 6t was at length settled, that 6 should go o"er land to Port 'ouis with the %ass%ort and commission, and that Mr# A en should be !urnished with a %ilot and bring the schooner round a!ter me# 6 was conducted to the house o! M# *unien"ille, about a mile distant, to be ready to set o!! on horsebac early neBt morning# The gentleman who inter%reted in!ormed me on the way, that general Magallon was at Bourbon, ha"ing been lately su%erseded by general *e 4aen, an o!!icer o! the French re"olution# M# *unien"ille had been a lieutenant o! the na"y and night o! 5t# 'ouis under the old go"ernment, and was then major o! the district o! A'a 5a"anneAD but the other o!!icer, M# /tienne Bolger, had lately been a%%ointed commandant o"er his head, by the new go"ernor# My rece%tion at the major's house was %olite and hos%itableD and at dawn o! day .F)6*A$ 1+ */4/MB/) 1E,23 6 rose to set o!! with my host !or Port 'ouis, according to the %lan settled o"er night# 6t a%%eared, howe"er, that he !irst eB%ected some orders !rom the commandantD and at ten o'cloc becoming im%atient o! the delay, 6 re@uested to now whether it were, or were not intended to go o"erlandN Major *unien"ille seemed to be hurt that the agreement had not been e%tD but the direction was ta en out o! his hands, and not ha"ing recei"ed !inal orders he could do nothing# 6 then returned to the 4umberland, with the intention o! sailing either with or without a %ilotD but a wind !a"ourable !or @uitting the bay being not eB%ected be!ore !our o'cloc it induced me to acce%t the major's %ressing in"itation to dine at his house, where !our or !i"e strangers were assembled# Be!ore dinner was o"er, an order came to him !rom the commandant Ato %ermit the de%arture o! the schooner he had sto%%edAD and at !i"e o'cloc the %ilot being on board, we stood out !rom the ree!s in one o! those s@ualls which come o!! the land at that hour in the summer season# This little Baye du 4a% lies about !our miles east !rom 4a%e Brabant, a headland at the south&west eBtremity o! the island# The shelter is !ormed by coral ree!s, through which a small ri"er !alling into the bay has e%t o%en a %assage o! about a cable's length wide, with a de%th o! 2 !athoms close to the eastern brea ersD within side there a%%eared to be anchorage !or siB or eight small "essels, in !rom 2 to 2 !athomsD but on account o! the !lurries o! wind which come down the gullies and o!! the %reci%ices,

it is necessary to moor head and stern# Mr# A en !ound the latitude !rom an indi!!erent obser"ation to be 2, deg# 2I1L2' south# At se"en in the e"ening we %assed round 4a%e Brabant, and the %ilot then e%t north&eastward, close along the ree!s under the high landD although by so doing we were !re@uently becalmed, and sometimes had strong !lurries which made it necessary to ta e in all sailD but it a%%eared that he was a!raid o! being dri"en o!! the island# At eight in the morning .5AT;)*A$ 1K */4/MB/) 1E,23, the mast heads o! the "essels in Port 'ouis were in sight, and there was a large shi% lying without side which 6 ho%ed might be A'e Geogra%heA# Major *unien"ille had in!ormed me that this shi% had been some time at Mauritius, and so !ar as he new, was still at the %ort, though u%on the e"e o! sailing !or /uro%e# 4a%tain Baudin died soon a!ter his arri"al, and Mons# Melius, who had been !irst lieutenant o! 'e <aturaliste when at Port :ac son, then commanded# *uring this %assage to Port 'ouis, my mind was occu%ied in turning o"er all the circumstances o! my situation, and the mode o! %roceeding li ely to be ado%ted by the new go"ernor# The brea ing out o! the war, the neglect o! %ro"iding in the %ass%ort !or any such case as that in which 6 stood, and the ungracious conduct o! the commandant at the Baye du 4a%, ga"e me some a%%rehensionsD but on the other hand, the intention o! the %ass%ort to %rotect the %ersons em%loyed in the eB%edition, with their charts and journals, must be e"identD and the conduct o! a go"ernor a%%ointed by the !irst consul Bona%arte, who was a %ro!essed %atron o! science, would hardly be less liberal than that o! two %receding French go"ernments to ca%tain 4oo in the American, and ca%tain Vancou"er in the last warD !or both o! whom %rotection and assistance had been ordered, though neither carried %ass%orts or had su!!ered shi%wrec # These circumstances, with the testimony which the commanders o! the Geogra%he and <aturaliste had doubtless gi"en o! their treatment at Port :ac son, seemed to insure !or me the indest rece%tionD and 6 determined to rest con!ident in this assurance, and to banish all a%%rehension as derogatory to the go"ernor o! Mauritius and to the character o! the French nation# 49APT/) 6V# Arri"al at Port 'ouis >or <orth&Gest? in Mauritius# 6nter"iew with the French go"ernor# 5eiJure o! the 4umberland, with the charts and journals o! the 6n"estigator's "oyageD and im%risonment o! the commander and %eo%le# 'etters to the go"ernor, with his answer# )estitution o! some boo s and charts# Friendly act o! the /nglish inter%reter# Pro%ositions made to the go"ernor# 9umane conduct o! ca%tain Bergeret# )e!lections on a "oyage o! disco"ery# )emo"al to the Maison *es%eauB or Garden Prison# .AT MA;)6T6;5# P8)T '8;65#3 5AT;)*A$ 1K */4/MB/) 1E,2 At !our in the a!ternoon o! *ec# 1K, we got to an anchor at the entrance o! Port 'ouis, near the shi% which 6 had ho%ed might be 'e Geogra%heD but ca%tain Melius had sailed !or France on the %receding day, and this %ro"ed to be ''Atalante !rigate# The %eculiarity o! my situation, arising !rom the renewal o! war and

neglect in the %ass%ort to %ro"ide !or any accident ha%%ening to the 6n"estigator, rendered great %recaution necessary in my %roceedingsD and to remo"e as much %ossible, any doubts or misconce%tions, 6 determined to go immediately with my %ass%ort and commission to the French go"ernor, and re@uest his lea"e to get the necessary re%arations made to the schoonerD but learning !rom the %ilot that it was a regulation o! the %ort !or no %erson to land be!ore the "essel had been "isited by the o!!icer o! health, it was com%lied with# At !i"e the boat came along&sideD and ha"ing answered some general @uestions %ro%osed in good /nglish, 6 went into the boat in my !roc uni!orm, and was conducted to the go"ernment house by an o!!icer o! the %ort and an inter%reter# These gentlemen, a!ter s%ea ing with an aide&de&cam%, told me that the ca%tain&general was at dinner, and we must return in an hour or twoD and they too me to a shady %lace which seemed to be the common lounge !or the o!!icers connected with the %ort# There were some who s%o e /nglish, and by way o! %assing the time, they as ed i! 6 had really come !rom Botany Bay in that little "esselD whether a cor"ette, sent out the night be!ore to obser"e my motions, had been seenD and i! 6 had not sent a boat on shore in the nightN 8thers as ed @uestions o! monsieur Baudin's conduct at Port :ac son, and o! the /nglish colony thereD and also concerning the "oyage o! monsieur Flinedare, o! which, to their sur%rise, 6 new nothing, but a!terwards !ound it to be my own name which they so %ronounced# 6n two hours we again went to the go"ernment house, and the o!!icers entered to render their account, lea"ing me at the door !or hal! an hour longer# At length the inter%reter desired me to !ollow him, and 6 was shown into a room where two o!!icers were standing at a tableD the one a shortish thic man in a laced round jac et, the other a genteel&loo ing man whose blood seemed to circulate more tran@uilly# The !irst, which was the ca%tain&general *e 4aen, !iBed his eyes sternly u%on me, and without salutation or %re!ace demanded my %ass%ort, my commissionO 9a"ing glanced o"er them, he as ed in an im%etuous manner, the reason !or coming to the 6sle o! France in a small&schooner with a %ass%ort !or the 6n"estigatorN 6 answered in a !ew words, that the 6n"estigator ha"ing become rotten, the go"ernor o! <ew 5outh Gales had gi"en me the schooner to return to /nglandD and that 6 had sto%%ed at the island to re%air my "essel and %rocure water and re!reshments# 9e then demanded the order !or embar ing in the schooner and coming to the 6sle o! FranceD to which my answer was, that !or coming to the island 6 had no order, necessity had obliged me to sto% in %assing&&my order !or embar ing in the 4umberland was on board# At this answer, the general lost the small share o! %atience o! which he seemed to be %ossessed, and said with much gesture and an ele"ated "oice&&C$ou are im%osing on me, sirO >AVous m'en im%oseJ, monsieurOA? 6t is not %robable that the go"ernor o! <ew 5outh Gales should send away the commander o! an eB%edition on disco"ery in so small a "esselO&&C 9e then ga"e bac my %ass%ort and commission, and 6 made a motion to !ollow the inter%reter out, but was desired to sto% a little# 6n a !ew minutes the inter%reter returned with a military o!!icer, to whom some orders not eB%lained to me were gi"en, and 6 was desired to !ollow themD when going out the ca%tain&general said in a so!ter tone something about my being well treated, which 6 could not com%rehend# 6n the way to the whar!, 6 in@uired o! the inter%reter where they were ta ing meN 9e said, on board the schooner, and that they had orders to bring my boo s and %a%ers on shoreD in e!!ect, they too all the charts, %a%ers, and journals relating to my "oyage, as also the Port&:ac son letters and %ac ets, both %ublic and %ri"ateD and ha"ing %ut them into a trun which was sealed by me at their desire, they made out a re%ort

>A%roces "erbalA? o! their %roceedings, and re@uested me to sign it with them# The %reamble o! this re%ort set !orth something u%on the sus%icions eBcited by my a%%earance at the 6sle o! France, with the ca%tain&general's o%inion thereonD 6 there!ore re!used to sign it, but certi!ied at the bottom, that all the charts, journals, and %a%ers o! the "oyage, together with all the letters on board the schooner had been ta en# The conduct o! these gentlemen being %olite, 6 eB%ressed to them my sentiments o! general *e 4aen's manner o! recei"ing me, and the injustice o! ta ing away the %a%ers o! a "oyage %rotected by a %ass%ort !rom the French go"ernmentD and added, that the ca%tain&general's conduct must alter "ery much be!ore 6 should %ay him a second "isit, or e"en set my !oot on shore again# The inter%reter ho%ed 6 would go on shore with them, !or the general had ordered a lodging to be %ro"ided !or meD and that, in !act, they had orders to ta e me there# 6 loo ed at him and at the o!!icer, who was one o! the aides&de&cam%&&GhatO 6 eBclaimed in the !irst trans%orts o! sur%rise and indignation&&6 am then a %risonerO They ac nowledged it to be trueD but said they ho%ed it would last only a !ew days, until my %a%ers were eBaminedD and that in the mean time, directions had been gi"en that 6 should want !or nothing# Mr# A en was also to go on shoreD and whilst we %ut a !ew clothes together in a trun , se"eral blac men, under the direction o! another %ilot, were war%ing the schooner u% into the %ort# At one in the morning .5;<*A$ 1E */4/MB/) 1E,23 the o!!icers too us into their boat, lea"ing the 4umberland, with Mr# 4harrington and the crew, under a guard o! soldiers# Ge were conducted to a large house in the middle o! the town, and through a long dar entry, u% a dirty stair case, into the room destined !or usD the aide&de&cam% and inter%reter then wished us a good night, and we a!terwards heard nothing sa"e the measured ste%s o! a sentinel, wal ing in the gallery be!ore our door# The chamber contained two truc le beds, a small table and two rush&bottomed chairsD and !rom the dirty a%%earance o! the room 6 judged the lodging %ro"ided !or us by the general to be one o! the better a%artments o! a common %risonD there were, howe"er, no iron bars behind the lattice windows, and the !rame o! a loo ing&glass in the room had !ormerly been gilt# 6t seemed to me a wiser %lan to lea"e the circumstances to de"elo% themsel"es, rather than to !atigue oursel"es with uncertain conjecturesD there!ore, telling Mr# A en we should %robably now the truth soon enough, 6 stri%%ed and got into bedD but between the mus etoes abo"e and bugs below, and the no"elty o! our situation, it was near daybrea be!ore either o! us dro%%ed aslee%# At siB o'cloc , 6 was awa ened by two armed grenadiers entering the room# The one said some words to the other, %ointing to us at the same time, and then went outD and he that remained began wal ing bac ward and !orward between our beds, as a sentinel on his %ost, without seeming to %ay great attention to us# 9ad there been curtains, 6 should ha"e tried to regain my slumberD but not being able to slee% in such com%any, 6 rose and awo e my com%anion, who seeing the grenadier and not at !irst recollecting our situation, answered in a manner that would ha"e di"erted me at any other time# The sentinel did not %re"ent us s%ea ing togetherD and on loo ing out at the window, we !ound that it was in reality a ta"ern where they had %laced us, though a "ery dirty oneD it bore the name o! A4a!e MarengoA# A brea !ast was brought at eight, and dinner at twel"e, and we eat heartilyD good bread, !resh meat, !ruit, and "egetables being great rarities#

At one o'cloc , the aide&de&cam%, whom 6 learned to be lieut# colonel Monistrol, came to the ta"ern and desired me to accom%any him to the generalD and being shown into an o!!ice, a German secretary, who s%o e some /nglish, %ut "arious @uestions to me !rom a %a%er, in substance nearly as !ollows# 9ow it was that 6 a%%eared at the 6sle o! France in so small a "essel, when my %ass%ort was !or the 6n"estigatorN Ghat was become o! the o!!icers and men o! science who made %art o! the eB%editionN Ghether 6 had any nowledge o! the war be!ore arri"ingN Ghy cartel colours had been hoisted, and a "essel chased in sight o! the islandN Ghat were my objects !or %utting into Port <orth&Gest, and by what authorityN The orders !rom go"ernor =ing, relating to the 4umberland, were also demanded, and carried to the ca%tain&general with my answers to the abo"e @uestionsD and soon a!terward to my sur%rise, an in"itation was brought me to go to the general's table, his dinner being then ser"ed u%# This in"itation was so contrary to all that had hitherto %assed, and being unaccom%anied with any eB%lanation, that 6 at !irst thought it could not be serious, and answered that 6 had already dinedD but on being %ressed to go at least to the table, my re%ly was, that Cunder my %resent situation and treatment it was im%ossibleD when they should be changed, when 6 should be set at liberty, i! 9is /Bcellency thought %ro%er to in"ite me, 6 should be !lattered by it, and acce%t his in"itation with %leasure#C 6t had indeed the air o! an eB%eriment, to ascertain whether 6 were really a commander in the British na"yD and had the in"itation been acce%ted without eB%lanation or a change o! treatment, an in!erence might ha"e been drawn that the charge o! im%osture was well !oundedD but in any case, ha"ing been grossly insulted both in my %ublic and %ri"ate character, 6 could not debase the situation 6 had the honour to hold by a tacit submission# Ghen the aide&de&cam% returned !rom carrying the abo"e re%ly, he said that the general would in"ite me when set at libertyD but nothing was o!!ered in the way o! eB%lanation# A %a%er containing the @uestions o! the German secretary with my answers, was re@uired to be signed, but this being in French, 6 objected as not understanding itD a translation was there!ore to be made, and the letter o! go"ernor =ing res%ecting the 4umberland was to be %ut into French !or the ca%tain&general# /Btracts !rom my journal, showing the necessity o! @uitting the 6n"estigator, were moreo"er desired, and also my reasons at !ull length !or sto%%ing at the 6sle o! France, instead o! going to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%eD it being necessary, they said, !or the general to transmit these to the French go"ernment, to justi!y himsel! !or granting that assistance to the 4umberland which had been ordered !or the 6n"estigator# 6t was already night, and the eBcessi"e heat, with being e%t siB hours answering @uestions, was "ery !atiguingD 6 there!ore too the third "olume o! my rough log boo , which contained the whole o! what they desired to now, and %ointing out the %arts in @uestion to the secretary, told him to ma e such eBtracts as should be thought re@uisite# 6 then re@uested to be shown bac to the ta"ern, also that the sentinel might be ta en out o! our room, and Mr# A en be %ermitted to return on board the schooner to ee% orderD to which the aide&de&cam% brought !or answer, that it was then too late to ma e new arrangements, but 9is /Bcellency would see me in the morning# All the boo s and %a%ers, the third "olume o! my rough log boo eBce%ted, were then returned into the trun and sealed as be!oreD and 6 was reconducted to my con!inement between eight and nine o'cloc # M8<*A$ 1I */4/MB/) 1E,2

<eBt morning, the sentinel in our chamber was ordered to ta e his station without sideD and in the a!ternoon M# Bonne!oy, the inter%reter, came to say that business %re"ented the ca%tain&general !rom seeing me be!ore the !ollowing day# Mr# A en had %ermission to go on board the schooner under the conduct o! an o!!icerD but not being allowed to remain, he brought away the time ee%er, with my seBtant and arti!icial horiJonD and we commenced a series o! obser"ations !or a new error and rate, ready against the day o! our de%arture# T;/5*A$ 2, */4/MB/) 1E,2 Mr# 4harrington came !rom the schooner on the 2,th to in!orm me, that the seamen were committing many irregularities, ta ing s%irits out o! my cabin and going on shore as they %leasedD the French guard seeming to ta e little or no cognisance o! their actions# At one o'cloc the inter%reter and a military o!!icer too me to the go"ernment house, and 6 eB%ected to ha"e an inter"iew with the general and a termination %ut to our con!inement# They showed me into the secretary's o!!ice, and re@uested a co%y o! my %ass%ort and commissionD and ha"ing made out one mysel! and signed them both, the inter%reter then said the general was busy and could not see me that dayD and 6 was ta en bac without learning when he would be at liberty, or what was intended to be done# As yet 6 was unable to com%rehend any thing o! the ca%tain&general's conductD but howe"er great my indignation at seeing my liberty and time thus tri!led with, it was to be !eared that in writing to him !or an eB%lanation, be!ore seeing what turn the a!!air would ta e, might be %roducti"e o! more harm than good# The disorders on board the schooner, howe"er, re@uiring immediate correction, 6 wrote a note to in!orm him o! themD re@uesting at the same time, that Mr# A en might remain in the 4umberland, and that the caul ing o! the "essel's u%%er wor s and !resh boring o! the %um%s might be commenced, these being the %rinci%al objects !or which 6 had sto%%ed at the island# 6n the e"ening the inter%reter called to say, that the cor%oral o! the guard on board the schooner had been %unished !or neglecting his ordersD that one o! the sailors, a Prussian, being !ound on shore had been %ut into the guard house, and that an answer would be gi"en to my note in the morning .G/*</5*A$ 21 */4/MB/) 1E,23# 6n e!!ect, the inter%reter then came with lieutenant&colonel Monistrol, and eB%lained to me a %a%er to the !ollowing %ur%ort# That the ca%tain&general being con"inced !rom the eBamination o! my journal, that 6 had absolutely changed the nature o! the mission !or which the First 4onsul had granted a %ass%ort, wherein 6 was certainly not authorised to sto% at the 6sle o! France to ma e mysel! ac@uainted with the A%eriodical winds, the %ort, %resent state 8! the colony, etc#A That such conduct being a "iolation o! neutrality, he ordered colonel Monistrol to go on board the 4umberland, and in my %resence to collect into one or more trun s all other %a%ers which might add to the %roo!s already ac@uiredD and a!ter sealing the trun s, 6 was to be ta en bac to the house where my sus%icious conduct had made it necessary to con!ine me !rom the instant o! arri"ing in the %ort# 6t was !urther ordered, that the crew o! the schooner should be e%t on board the %rison shi%D and that an in"entory should be ta en o! e"ery thing in the 4umberland, and the stores %ut under seal and guarded con!ormably to the regulations#7 .7 The !ollowing is a co%y o! the order, as gi"en to me by the inter%reter and certi!ied by colonel Monistrol >6n French, not included here# /boo editor#?3

5uch was the answer gi"en to my re@uest !or the re%airs o! the schooner to be commenced# 6n com%liance with their order the o!!icers too me on board, and the remaining boo s and %a%ers, whether relating in any way to the 6n"estigator's "oyage or not, e"en to letters recei"ed !rom my !amily and !riends during se"eral years, were all ta en away, loc ed u% in a trun , and sealed# Mr# A en and mysel! were allowed to ta e our clothes, but the o!!icers dared not "enture to let me ha"e any %rinted boo sD 6 must howe"er do colonel Monistrol and M# Bonne!oy the justice to say, that they acted throughout with much %oliteness, a%ologiJing !or what they were obliged by their orders to eBecuteD and the colonel said he would ma e a re%resentation to the ca%tain&general, who doubtless lay under some mista e# This turn to my a!!airs sur%rised, and at !irst stunned me# The single circumstance about which 6 had entertained the least a%%rehension, was the neglect in my %ass%ort o! %ro"iding !or any other "essel than the 6n"estigatorD but !rom this order o! the ca%tain&general, 6 !ound mysel! considered in the light o! a s%yD my desire to now how !ar Mauritius could be use!ul as a %lace o! re!itment in the !uture %art o! my "oyage&&a desire !ormed and eB%ressed in the belie! o! its being a time o! %eace, was made a %lea !or de%ri"ing me o! liberty and the result o! more than two years o! ris and labour# The sensations raised by this "iolation o! justice, o! humanity, and o! the !aith o! his own go"ernment, need not be describedD they will be readily !elt by e"ery /nglishman who has been subjected, were it only !or a day, to French re"olutionary %ower# 8n returning to my %lace o! con!inement, 6 immediately wrote and sent the !ollowing letter, addressed to 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general *e 4aen, go"ernor in chie!, etc# etc# etc# 6sle o! France# 5ir, From your order, which was eB%lained to me this morning, 6 !ind that the %lea !or detaining me is not now that 6 do not a%%ear with the 6n"estigator, according to Athe letterA o! my %ass%ort !rom the !irst consul o! FranceD but that 6 ha"e "iolated the neutrality therein re@uired by ha"ing gi"en in my journal, as an additional reason !or %utting into this %ort, that Cit would enable me to ac@uire a nowledge o! the %eriodical winds, and o! the %resent state o! the French colonyD how !ar it or its de%endencies in Madagascar might be use!ul to Port :ac son, and how !ar it would be a con"enient %lace !or me to touch at in my !uture eB%ected "oyage(C 6 @uote !rom memory only, my journal being in your %ossession# 9ow this remar , made u%on the su%%osition o! our two nations being at %eace, can be a breach o! neutrality, 6 ac nowledge mysel! unable to disco"er# <othing can, in my o%inion, add to the %ro%riety o! the intentions with which 6 %ut into this %ort, but 6 shall justi!y it by the eBam%le o! your own nationD and to do so, it is only necessary !or me to re!er to the instructions which %re!ace the %ublished "oyage o! the un!ortunate 'a Perouse, by the judicious Fleurieu# $our /Bcellency will there see, that the much lamented na"igator was ordered to ma e %articular obser"ations u%on the trade, manu!actures, strength, situation, etc# o! e"ery %ort where he might touchD so that, i! the eBam%le o! your own nation be ta en as a standard o! %ro%riety, the %lea !or ma ing me a %risoner is altogether untenable# ;%on the su%%osition e"en o! its being war, and that 6 new it and still intended to ma e the obser"ations eB%ressed in my journalD u%on this incorrect and worst su%%osition 6 ha"e, 6 thin , an eBam%le o! similar conduct in your own nationD unless you can assure me that the ca%tains Baudin and 9amelin

made no such remar s u%on Port :ac son, !or it was a declared war at the time they lay in that %ort# But were they !orbidden to ma e such remar s and notes u%on the state o! that /nglish colonyN ;%on its %rogress, its strength, the %ossibility o! its being attac ed with ad"antage, and the utility it might a!!ord to the French nationN 6 tell you, general *e 4aen, <o# The go"ernor in chie! at Port :ac son new too well the dignity o! his own nation, either to lay any %rohibition u%on these commanders, or to demand to see what their journals might contain# 6 shall neBt a%%eal to you as being the re%resentati"e in this %lace o! a great nation, which has hitherto shown itsel! !orward to %rotect and encourage those sciences by which the nowledge o! man ind is eBtended or their condition ameliorated# ;nderstand then, 5ir, that 6 was chosen by that %atron o! science sir :ose%h Ban s, %resident o! the )oyal 5ociety o! 'ondon, and one well nown by all the literati throughout the world, to retrace %art o! the trac o! the immortal ca%tain 4oo &&to com%lete what in <ew 9olland and its neighbourhood he had le!t un!inished&&and to %er!ect the disco"ery o! that eBtensi"e country# This em%loyment, 5ir, as it was congenial to my own inclinations, so 6 %ursued it with a"idityD u%on it, as !rom a con"eB lens, all the rays o! nowledge and science which my o%%ortunities ha"e enabled me to collect, were thrown# 6 was un!ortunate in that my shi% decayed be!ore the "oyage was com%letedD but the ca%tain&general at Port :ac son, who is also the senior na"al o!!icer there, was so sensible o! the im%ortance o! the "oyage and o! the Jeal with which 6 had %ursued it >!or the truth o! which 6 a%%eal to his letters now in your %ossession?, that he ga"e me a colonial shi% o! war to trans%ort me with my o!!icers, charts, etc# to /ngland, that 6 might obtain another shi% in which the "oyage might be com%leted# 6n this second shi% 6 was a %assengerD and in her, shi%wrec and the loss o! charts which had cost me much labour and many ris s to ma e %er!ect, were added to my !irst mis!ortuneD but my Jeal su!!ered no abatement# 6 returned to Port :ac son >K2- miles? in an o%en boat, and got a merchant shi% which was bound to 4hina, hired to carry my o!!icers and %eo%le to /ngland by that circuitous routeD but desirous o! losing no time, 6 too a small schooner o! twenty&nine tons, a mere boat, in order to reach /ngland by a nearer %assage, and thus gain two or three mouths o! time in the out!it o! my !uture eB%ected shi%D ma ing my own case and sa!ety to stand in no com%etition with the great object o! !orwarding my "oyage# <ecessity, and not inclination, obliged me to %ut in at the 6sle o! France in my route# <ow, 5ir, 6 would beg to as you whether it becomes the French nation, inde%endently o! all %ass%ort, to sto% the %rogress o! such a "oyage, and o! which the whole maritime world are to recei"e the bene!itN 9ow contrary to this was her conduct some years since towards ca%tain 4oo O But the world highly a%%lauded her conduct thenD and %ossibly we may sometime see what the general sentiment will be in the %resent case# 6 sought %rotection and assistance in your %ort, and 6 ha"e !ound a %risonO :udge !or me as a man, 5ir&&judge, !or me as a British o!!icer em%loyed in a neutral occu%ation&&judge !or me as a Jealous %hilanthro%ist, what 6 must !eel at being thus treated# At %resent 6 @uit the subject with the !ollowing re@uests( that 6 may be %ermitted to ha"e my %rinted boo s on shoreD and that my ser"ant may be allowed to attend me in my a%artment# Gith all the res%ect due !rom my situation to the ca%tain&general,

6 am From my con!inement, $our /Bcellency's obedient ser"ant, *ec# 21, 1E,2# Matthew Flinders# The la%se o! se"eral years has enabled me to consider the transactions o! this %eriod under di!!erent "iews, to regard them with almost the coolness o! an uninterested obser"erD and 6 see the %ossibility that a dis%assionate reader may accuse me o! ta ing too high a %osition, and using too warm a style&&in rather gi"ing way to the dictates o! !eeling than dwelling u%on the %roo!s o! my innocenceD %erha%s also, he may accuse me o! "anity, in see ing to enhance my own Jeal and claims# Githout attem%ting to contro"ert these censures, 6 beg him to consider all the circumstances o! my situation( my "oyage, shi%wrec , and anBiety to %ursue the ste%s o! our celebrated na"igators# 'et him su%%ose himsel! to ha"e eBecuted so much o! the same tas , esca%ed the same dangersD and under the in!luence o! %ower!ul moti"es to reach /ngland with eB%edition, to be arrested on the way, his mis!ortunes either not heeded or con"erted into %roo!s o! delin@uency, and himsel! treated as a s%yD and this is done by the re%resentati"e o! a go"ernment which had %romised assistance and %rotection, and moreo"er owed him a return !or the ind treatment recently eB%erienced by Frenchmen in the %ort !rom whence he came# 'et him su%%ose himsel! writing to his o%%ressor with these "arious recollections crowding on his imaginationD and the allowances he would then desire !or himsel!, 6 re@uest o! him to ma e !or me# T9;)5*A$ 22 */4/MB/) 1E,2 8n the day !ollowing the transmission o! the letter, my ser"ant was brought on shore !rom the %rison shi%, where he le!t Mr# 4harrington and the seamen closely con!inedD but no answer was returned either on the 22nd or 22rd, nor did we hear any thing that could gi"e an insight into what !urther was intended to be done# Ge su!!ered much !rom the heat o! the weather and want o! !resh airD !or the town o! Port 'ouis is wholly eB%osed to the rays o! the sun, whilst the mountains which !orm a semicircle round it to the east and south, not only %re"ent the trade wind !rom reaching it, but re!lect the heat in such a manner, that !rom <o"ember to A%ril it is almost insu%%ortable# *uring this season, the inhabitants whose a!!airs do not oblige them to remain, !ly to the higher and windward %arts o! the islandD and the others ta e the air and their eBercise "ery early in the morning and late in the e"ening# Ge who were shut u% in the middle o! the town, and !rom ha"ing been three months con!ined to a "essel o! twenty&nine tons were much in need o! eBercise, could not but !eel the %ersonal incon"eniences o! such a situation in their !ull rigourD and the %erturbation o! mind, eBcited by such unworthy treatment, did not tend to alle"iate their e!!ects on our health# But the heat and want o! !resh air were not the worst e"ils# 8ur unde!ended %allet beds were besieged by swarms o! bugs and mus etoes, and the bites o! these noBious insects u%on bodies ready to brea out with scur"y, %roduced e!!ects more than usually %ain!ul and disagreeable# Being almost co"ered with in!lamed s%ots, some o! which had become ulcers on my legs and !eet, 6 wrote to the ca%tain&general, re@uesting the assistance o! a surgeonD and also to now under what limitations he would allow me to write to the Admiralty o! Great Britain, and to my !amily and !riendsD but the main subject was le!t untouched, in eB%ectation o! an answer to the !ormer letter# 6n the a!ternoon, one o! the aides&de&cam% said that 9is /Bcellency did

not %re"ent me !rom writing to whom 6 %leasedD but that my letters must be sent o%en to the town major, who would !orward them to their address# The same e"ening a surgeon, who did not s%ea /nglish, came to our roomD neBt morning .5AT;)*A$ 2- */4/MB/) 1E,23 he returned with the inter%reter, and !inding the ulcers to be scorbutic, ordered me, in addition to his dressings, to drin %lenti!ully o! lemonade and li"e u%on !ruit and "egetables# Their "isit was re%eated on the !ollowing day .5;<*A$ 2M */4/MB/) 1E,23D but nothing trans%ired relati"e to the general's intentions, nor to any answer %ro%osed to be gi"en to my letter o! the 21stD and 6 there!ore wrote another in the !ollowing terms# 5ir, From whate"er cause it may be that 6 ha"e recei"ed no answer to my letter o! the 21st last, 6 shall yet continue to do my duty to my go"ernment and the cause o! disco"ery, by %ointing out e"ery circumstance that may ha"e a %robability o! inducing you to liberate my %eo%le, my "essel, and mysel!# A !ormer letter showed, that u%on the %rinci%les ado%ted in "oyages o! disco"ery by your own nation, the %lea !or detaining me a %risoner was untenableD and also that inde%endently o! any %ass%ort, it ill became the French nation to sto% the %rosecution o! a "oyage o! disco"ery, es%ecially one carried on with the Jeal that mine has hitherto been# 6n this letter 6 shall endea"our to %oint out another circumstance, at least as im%ortant as the !ormer, so !ar as regards the injustice o! my detainer# 6n this %oint o! "iew then, 5ir, 6 shall admit, that to ma e any remar s u%on a %ort which might enable either mysel! or others to come into it again with more !acility, or which might gi"e in!ormation concerning the re!reshments and articles o! commerce to be %rocured at it, is, although made in time o! %eace, a crimeD and conse@uently, that i! 'a Perouse eBecuted his instructions, he was no better than a s%y at the di!!erent %orts where he %ut in# 'et this, 5ir, !or the moment be admittedD and 6 as what %roo!s you ha"e that 6 ha"e made such remar sN $ou will %robably say, 6 AintendedA to ma e them# True, but intention is not action# 6 might ha"e altered my intentions on coming into the %ort, and !inding our two nations to be at war( you cannot now what alteration a nowledge o! the war might ha"e made in my sentiments# Ge do indeed judge much o! the merit or demerit o! an action by the intention with which it is %er!ormedD but in all cases there must be an action %er!ormed to constitute any certain merit or demerit amongst men# <ow in my case there a%%ears to ha"e been intention onlyD and e"en this intention 6 ha"e be!ore shown to be consistent with the %ractice o! your own nation, and 6 belie"e o! all nations# As it a%%ears that $our /Bcellency had !ormed a determination to sto% the 4umberland, %re"iously e"en to seeing me, i! a s%ecious %reteBt were wanting !or it, it would ha"e been more li e wisdom to ha"e let me alone until the e"e o! sailing, and then to ha"e seiJed my journalD where it is %ossible something better than AintentionA might ha"e been !iBed u%on as a cause !or ma ing me a %risoner# This would ha"e been a mean action, and altogether unworthy o! you or your nationD but it might ha"e answered your %ur%ose better than the ste% now ta en# 6 say there a%%ears to ha"e been a %re"ious determination to sto% the 4umberland, and !rom this causeD that on the !irst e"ening o! my arri"al, and be!ore any eBamination was made into my %a%ers >my commission and %ass%ort eBce%ted?, you told me im%etuously that 6 was Aim%osing u%on youA# <ow 6 cannot thin that an o!!icer o! your ran and judgment could act either

so ungentlemanli e, or so unguardedly, as to ma e such a declaration without %roo!D unless his reason had been blinded by %assion, or a %re"ious determination that it should be so, Anolens "olensA# 6n your order o! the 21st last it is indeed said, that the ca%tain&general has ac@uired con"iction that 6 am the %erson 6 %retend to be, and the same !or whom a %ass%ort was obtained by the /nglish go"ernment !rom the First 4onsulD it !ollows then, as 6 am willing to eB%lain it, that 6 Aam notA and Awas notA an im%ostor# This %lea was gi"en u% when a more %lausible one was thought to be !oundD but 6 cannot com%liment $our /Bcellency u%on this alteration in your %osition, !or the !irst, although !alse, is the most tenable %ost o! the two# Trusting that u%on a due consideration o! all the circumstances, you will be %leased to !ul!il the intention !or which the %ass%ort was gi"en, 6 ha"e the honour to be, From my con!inement, $our /Bcellency's obedient ser"ant, *ec# 2M, 1E,2# Matthew Flinders# 6n the e"ening, a letter was brought me by a soldier !rom general *e 4aen, and the haste with which it had been sent ins%ired !a"ourable ho%esD 6 did not eB%ect the "isit o! the inter%reter until the !ollowing day, and there!ore attem%ted to deci%her the letter by the hel% o! a French dictionary, with a degree o! anBiety which its contents were but little calculated to satis!y( it was as !ollows# 6 did not answer your letter o! the 21st *ecember, 5ir, because it was useless to commence a debate here between you and me, u%on the moti"es well or ill !ounded !rom which 6 too u%on mysel! to sto% the 4umberland until !urther orders# 8n the other hand, 6 should ha"e had too much ad"antage in re!uting your assertions, notwithstanding the reasonings and @uotations with which you ha"e adorned them# 6 was still willing to attribute the unreser"ed tone you had used in that letter, to the ill humour %roduced by your %resent situation# 6 was !ar !rom thin ing that a!ter ha"ing seriously re!lected u%on the causes and circumstances, you should ta e occasion !rom a silence so delicate to go still !urtherD but your last letter no longer lea"es me an alternati"e# $our underta ing, as eBtraordinary as it was inconsiderate, to de%art !rom Port :ac son in the 4umberland, more to gi"e %roo! o! an o!!icious Jeal, more !or the %ri"ate interests o! Great Britain than !or what had induced the French go"ernment to gi"e you a %ass%ort, which 6 shall un!old at a %ro%er o%%ortunity, had already gi"en me an idea o! your characterD but this letter o"erste%%ing all the bounds o! ci"ility, obliges me to tell you, until Athe general o%inion judges o! your !aults or o! mineA, to cease all corres%ondence tending to demonstrate the justice o! your causeD since you now so little how to %reser"e the rules o! decorum#7 .The teBt o! the letter, in French, was set out in the boo , but is not set out in this eboo #3 The accusation o! not %reser"ing the rules o! decorum, seemed not a little eBtraordinary !rom one who had e%t me abo"e two hours in the street when 6 had gone to wait u%on him, and who had @uali!ied me with the title o! im%ostor without eBaminationD but it seemed that any act o!

aggression on the %art o! the general was to meet only with submission and res%ect# /mbarrassment sheltering itsel! under des%otic %ower, was e"ident in this letterD but it ga"e no !urther insight into the reasons !or ma ing me a %risoner, and conse@uently no o%%ortunity o! "indicating my innocence# 6t there!ore seemed wisest, seeing the ind o! man with whom 6 had to deal, to !ollow his directions and lea"e the main subject to the o%eration o! timeD but to ta e o!! my mind !rom dwelling too intensely u%on the circumstance o! being arrested at such a conjuncture, 6 determined to em%loy it in !orwarding my "oyage, i! an a%%lication !or the necessary %a%ers should be attended with success# M8<*A$ 2+ */4/MB/) 1E,2 9a"ing obtained a translation o! the general's letter !rom the inter%reter, who came neBt morning in com%any with the surgeon, 6 wrote to re@uest, 1st# My %rinted boo s !rom the schooner# 2nd# My %ri"ate letters and %a%ers out o! the secretary's o!!ice# 2rd# To ha"e two or three charts and three or !our manuscri%t boo s, !or the %ur%ose o! !inishing the chart o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD adding in eB%lanation, that the %arts wanting were mostly lost in the shi%wrec , and 6 wished to re%lace them !rom my memory and remaining materials be!ore it were too late# For these a recei%t was o!!ered, and my word that nothing in the boo s should be erased or destroyedD but 6 wished to ma e additions to one or two o! the boo s as well as to the charts, and would a!terwards be ready to gi"e u% the whole# -th# 6 re%resented a com%laint !rom my seamen, o! being shut u% at night in a %lace where not a breath o! air could come to themD which, in a climate li e this, must be not only uncom!ortable in the last degree, but "ery destructi"e to /uro%ean constitutions# Also, that the %eo%le with whom they were %laced were a!!ected with that disagreeable and contagious disorder the itchD and that their %ro"isions were too scanty, eBce%t in the article o! bread, the %ro%ortion o! which was large, but o! a bad @uality# An answer was gi"en on the same day by one o! the general's aides&de&cam%, who said that orders had been gi"en !or the deli"ery o! the boo s and %a%ersD that the %lace where the seamen were e%t was "ery wholesomeD and as to the %ro"isions, that orders had been gi"en on my arri"al !or the %eo%le o! the 4umberland to be treated as French seamen in actual ser"iceD that he would in@uire whether any thing contrary had been done, which he did not thin , but in that case it should be set right# T;/5*A$ 2K */4/MB/) 1E,2 At noon neBt day colonel Monistrol and M# Bonne!oy called, and a trun was brought !rom on board the schooner, containing a %art o! my %rinted boo s# The colonel seemed to be sorry that my letters to the general had been couched in a style so !ar !rom humble, and to thin that they might rather tend to %rotract than terminate my con!inementD on which 6 obser"ed, belie"ing him to be in the general's con!idence, that as my demand was to obtain common justice, an adulatory style did not seem %ro%er, more es%ecially when addressed to a re%ublican who must des%ise

it( my rights had been in"aded, and 6 used the language natural to a man so circumstanced# 9ad !a"ours been wanted, or there had been any thing to conceal, my language would %robably ha"e been di!!erentD but o! all things 6 desired that the strictest scrutiny should be made into my %a%ers, and that it should be con!ronted with any eBamination they might choose to ma e o! mysel! or %eo%le# The colonel and inter%reter, either !rom %oliteness or con"iction, did not disagree with these sentiments, but re%eated that a di!!erent mode o! writing might ha"e answered betterD it a%%eared indeed, !rom their con"ersation, that French re%ublicanism in"ol"ed any thing rather than liberty, justice, and e@uality, o! which it had so much boasted# 5o soon as the two gentlemen were gone, 6 too out my na"al signal boo !rom the trun and tore it to %iecesD the %ri"ate signals had been lost in the shi%wrec , so that my mind was now !reed !rom a%%rehensions which had gi"en much in@uietude# G/*</5*A$ 2E */4/MB/) 1E,2 8n the 2Eth, M# 4ha%otin, the surgeon, called as usual with the inter%reter# 9e said that air and eBercise were necessary to the re&establishment o! my health, and that so soon as 6 should be able to wal out, it would be %ro%er to a%%ly to the general !or a %ermissionD and on my objecting to as any thing li e a %ersonal !a"our, he %romised with some degree o! !eeling to ta e the a%%lication on himsel!# <o mention was made this day o! the boo s and %a%ers, to be deli"ered !rom the sealed trun sD but neBt morning .T9;)5*A$ 2I */4/MB/) 1E,23 6 was conducted to the go"ernment house, and too out all my %ri"ate letters and %a%ers, the journals o! bearings and astronomical obser"ations, two log boo s, and such charts as were necessary to com%leting the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD !or which a recei%t was re@uired, without any obligation to return them# The third log boo , containing transactions and remar s in di!!erent "essels during the %receding siB months, was im%ortant to me on many accounts, and es%ecially !or the obser"ations it contained u%on Torres' 5trait and the Gul%hD but it was said to be in the hands o! the general, who could not be disturbed, and two boBes o! des%atches !rom go"ernor =ing and colonel Paterson had been ta en away# All the other boo s and %a%ers, including my %ass%ort, commission, etc#, with some accounts !rom the commissary o! <ew 5outh Gales and many %ri"ate letters !rom indi"iduals in that colony, were loc ed u% in a trun and sealed as be!ore# 5AT;)*A$ 21 */4/MB/) 1E,2 8n the 21st# 6 sent to the town major's o!!ice an o%en letter addressed to the secretary o! the Admiralty, gi"ing a short account o! my embar ation and shi%wrec in the Por%oise, "oyage in the 4umberland, and situation in MauritiusD with two %ri"ate letters, and a re@uest that they might be !orwarded by the !irst o%%ortunity# <eBt day .5;<*A$ 1 :A<;A)$ 1E,-3 the recei%t o! them was ac nowledged, and a %romise gi"en to in!orm me o! the means by which they should be sent, and it was done accordinglyD but not one o! the letters, or o! their du%licates, was e"er recei"ed# 9a"ing calculated with Mr# A en the obser"ations %re"iously ta en !or the rate o! the time ee%er,7 6 now wor ed earnestly u%on the chart o! the Gul%h o! 4ar%entariaD and this em%loyment ser"ed to di"ert my chagrin, and the indignation which, howe"er useless it might be, 6 could not but

!eel at the author o! our im%risonment# The want o! my log boo , howe"er, was a great obstacle to laying down the %arts seen in the 4umberlandD and nothing more ha"ing been said o! it, a short letter was written to general *e 4aen on the Mth, reminding him that the log was necessary to the construction o! my charts, and that only a small %art o! the %rinted boo s had yet been deli"ered# A "erbal answer was brought by the inter%reter, and two days a!terward the boo s came !rom the schoonerD but res%ecting the log no answer was made# .7 The rate !rom *ecember 1I to 2M, was 2+#IC losing, or only ,#1+C more than that %re"iously !ound at 4oe%ang in TimorD but the longitude deduced !rom the !irst obser"ation with the 4oe%ang rate, was MK deg# -,' -,#MC, or 1,' -2#MC greater than a!terwards obtained !rom twenty&se"en sets o! lunar distances# 6n laying down the trac !rom Timor, this error has been e@ually distributed throughout the thirty !i"e days between <o"ember 1and *ecember 1I, 1E,2#3 The sentinel %laced at the door o! our chambers >!or we had a !ew days be!ore obtained a second, with mus eto curtains to our beds?, became unusually strict at this time, scarcely allowing the master o! the ta"ern, or e"en the inter%reter or surgeon to see usD and one day, hearing me in@uire the name o! some dish in French !rom the sla"e who waited at dinner, the sentinel burst into the room and dro"e away the %oor a!!righted blac , saying that we were not to s%ea to any %erson# Pre"iously to this, a *utch, a 5wiss, a <orwegian, and two American gentlemen had calledD but eBce%t the 5wiss, who !ound means to bid us good day occasionally without being noticed, not one came a second time, !or !ear o! being held in a sus%icious light by the go"ernmentD and now, the surgeon and inter%reter were not admitted without a written order# Two a%%lications had been made by the surgeon in my behal!, to wal in the !ields near the townD the last was %ersonally to the ca%tain&general, but although he might ha"e caused a sentinel to !ollow, or a whole guard i! thought necessary, an un@uali!ied re!usal was gi"en to M# 4ha%otin's humane re@uest# Ge were lodged and su%%lied with meals in the ta"ern at the %ublic eB%enseD but ha"ing lost %art o! our clothes in the shi%wrec , and distributed some to those o! our com%anions who had sa"ed nothing, both Mr# A en and mysel! were much in want o! linen and other necessariesD and a!ter the !ew dollars 6 chanced to ha"e about me were gone, we new not how to %ay !or our washing# All strangers being re!used admittance too away the chance o! negotiating bills, !or the surgeon s%o e no /nglish and the inter%reter always a"oided the subjectD one morning howe"er, ha"ing %re"iously ascertained that it would not gi"e umbrage, the inter%reter o!!ered to attem%t the negotiation o! a bill drawn u%on the commissioners o! the na"yD but the sentinel, seeing him ta e a %a%er, ga"e in!ormation, and M# Bonne!oy was scarcely out o! the room when a !ile o! soldiers made him %risonerD nor, although a %ublic o!!icer, was he liberated until it was ascertained that he acted with %ermission, and had recei"ed no other %a%er than the bill# 6n the e"ening he brought the !ull sum, at a time when bills u%on /ngland could obtain cash with di!!iculty at a discount o! thirty %er cent# 6t was the che"alier Pelgrom, who !illed the o!!ices o! *anish and 6m%erial consul, that had acted thus liberallyD and he caused me to be in!ormed, that the !ear o! incurring the general's dis%leasure had alone %re"ented him !rom o!!ering his assistance sooner# Although Mr# A en and mysel! were strictly con!ined and closely watched, my ser"ant was le!t at liberty to go u%on my commissionsD and once a wee

6 sent him on board the %rison shi%, to ta e Mr# 4harrington and the seamen a bas et o! !ruit and "egetables !rom the mar et# They had always been %ermitted to wal u%on dec in the day time, and latterly been sometimes allowed to go into the town, accom%anied by a soldierD and since !rom all we could learn, the !inal decision o! the ca%tain&general was yet in sus%ense, 6 augured !a"ourably o! the result !rom this relaBation towards the men# My ho%es became strengthened on the 1-th, by learning !rom M# Bonne!oy that it was belie"ed we should be %ermitted to wal out, and %erha%s de%art altogether, so soon as three *utch shi%s commanded by rear&admiral *e er should ha"e sailed# These shi%s were loaded with %e%%er !rom Bata"ia, and bound to /uro%eD and it seemed %ossible that one reason o! our detention might be to %re"ent /nglish shi%s gaining intelligence o! them by our meansD but this could be no eBcuse !or close im%risonment and ta ing away my charts and journals, whate"er it might be made !or delaying our de%arture# Finding it im%ossible to obtain the third "olume o! my log boo , the charts o! Torres' 5trait and the Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria were !inished without itD !ortunately the journal e%t by Mr# A en in the 4umberland had not been ta en away, and it %ro"ed o! great assistance# 8ur time %assed on in this manner, ho%ing that the *utch shi%s would sail, and that general *e 4aen would then su!!er us to de%art, either in the 4umberland or some other wayD the surgeon came almost daily, on account o! my scorbutic sores, and the inter%reter called !re@uently# 6 was care!ul not to send out my ser"ant o!ten, !or it a%%eared that he was dogged by s%ies, and that %eo%le were a!raid o! s%ea ing to himD the surgeon and inter%reter were almost e@ually cautious with me, so that although in the midst o! a town where news arri"ed continually !rom some %art o! the world, e"ery thing to us was wra%%ed in mysteryD and M# Bonne!oy a!terwards ac nowledged, in answer to a direct @uestion %ut to him, that an order had been gi"en to %re"ent us recei"ing any intelligence# 8n the 2Ith, admiral *e er sailed with his three shi%sD and whilst anBiously eB%ecting some communication, the inter%reter called to in!orm me that an order had been gi"en !or the schooner to be mo"ed u% the harbour, and the stores to be ta en outD and he wished to now i! Mr# A en should be %resent at ma ing the in"entory# 6 as ed what was to be done with us&&with my boo s and %a%ersN To which he answered by a shrug o! the shoulders( he had come only !or the %ur%ose o! eBecuting his order# 8n each o! the two !ollowing days Mr# A en was ta en down to the schoonerD !or he acce%ted the %ro%osition to accom%any the o!!icers !or the sa e o! the wal , and in the ho%e o! obtaining some intelligence# 9e !ound the %oor 4umberland co"ered with blue mold within side, and many o! the stores in a decaying state, no %recautions ha"ing been ta en to %reser"e her !rom the heat or the rainsD the French in"entory was a!terwards brought to him to be signed, but he re!used it with my a%%robation# F/B);A)$ 1E,This new %roceeding seemed to bes%ea the ca%tain&general to ha"e !inally ta en his resolution to ee% us %risonersD and my disa%%ointment at seeing it, instead o! recei"ing bac my boo s and %a%ers and %ermission to de%art, was eBtreme# 6n the ho%e to obtain some in!ormation 6 wrote a note on the 2rd, to solicit o! 9is /Bcellency the honour o! an audienceD and !i"e days ha"ing ela%sed without an answer, the inter%reter was re@uested to deli"er a message to the same e!!ect# 9e %resently returned with the concise answer, A<oAD but a!terwards told me in con"ersation

that the general had said, Cca%tain Flinders might ha"e nown that 6 did not wish to see him, by not gi"ing an answer to his note# 6t is needless !or me to see him, !or the con"ersation will %robably be such as to oblige me to send him to the tower#C My intention in re@uesting the audience was to ha"e o!!ered certain %ro%osals to the general's consideration, and i! %ossible to obtain some eB%lanation o! the reasons !or a detention so eBtraordinary, and now %rotracted beyond siB wee sD and being disa%%ointed in this, a letter was written on the 12th, containing the !ollowing %ro%ositions# 1st# 6! your /Bcellency will %ermit me to de%art with my "essel, %a%ers, etc#, 6 will %ledge my honour not to gi"e any in!ormation o! the 6sle o! France or any thing belonging to it, !or a limited time, i! it be thought that 6 can ha"e gained any in!ormationD or i! judged necessary, any other restrictions can be laid u%on me# 6! this will not be com%lied with, 6 re@uest, 2nd, to be sent to France# 2rd# But i! it be indis%ensable to detain me here, 6 re@uest that my o!!icer and %eo%le may be %ermitted to de%art in the schoonerD as well !or the %ur%ose o! in!orming the British Admiralty where 6 am, as to relie"e our !amilies and !riends !rom the re%ort which will be s%read o! the total loss o! the Por%oise and 4ato, with all on board# Mr# A en can be laid under what restrictions may be deemed re@uisiteD and my honour shall be a security that nothing shall be transmitted by me, but what %asses under the ins%ection o! the o!!icer who may be a%%ointed !or that %ur%ose# 6n case o! re!using to ado%t any o! these modes, by which my "oyage might %roceed without %ossibility o! injury to the 6sle o! France, 6 then reminded 9is /Bcellency that since the shi%wrec o! the Por%oise, siB months be!ore, my %eo%le as well as mysel! had been mostly con!ined either u%on a small sand ban in the o%en sea, or in a boat, or otherwise on board the 4umberland where there was no room to wal , or been e%t %risoners as at that timeD and that 6 had not %re"iously reco"ered !rom a scorbutic and "ery debilitated state, arising !rom ele"en months eB%osure to great !atigue, bad climate, and salt %ro"isions# A!ter noticing my scorbutic sores, and his re!usal o! the surgeon's a%%lication !or me to wal out, it was added&&The ca%tain&general best nows whether my conduct has deser"ed, or the eBigencies o! his go"ernment re@uire, that 6 should continue to be closely con!ined in this sic ly town and cut o!! !rom societyD but o! no %art o! this letter was any notice ta en# Two days be!ore, 6 had been !a"oured with a "isit !rom ca%tain Bergeret o! the French na"y, who had commanded A'a VirginieA !rigate when ta en by 5ir /dward Pellew, and o! whose honourable conduct in the a!!air o! 5ir G# 5ydney 5mith's im%risonment, %ublic mention had been made in /ngland# This gentleman sat some time con"ersing u%on my situation, which he seemed desirous to ameliorateD he said that Cthe general did not consider me to be a %risoner o! war, and that my con!inement did not arise !rom any thing 6 had done#C From what then did it ariseN At this @uestion he was silent# 9e regretted not to ha"e been in town on my arri"al, belie"ing it would ha"e been in his %ower to ha"e turned the tide o! conse@uencesD and obligingly o!!ered to su%%ly me with money, i! in want# *uring a !ortnight !rom this time, no incident occurred worth notice# My scorbutic sores being much better, the surgeon came but seldomD and the

"isits o! the inter%reter being less !re@uent than be!ore, our solitude was rarely interru%ted# The Gul%h o! 4ar%entaria and Torres' 5trait being !inished, my time had since been em%loyed in writing an eB%lanatory memoir u%on the latter chartD Mr# A en was occu%ied in co%ying the journal o! bearings !or the Admiralty, and my ser"ant in transcribing the two !irst "olumes o! the log, which had been torn and de!aced in the shi%wrec D so that our time did not %ass wholly in "ain# 6t was the com%letion o! the charts, howe"er, that 6 had most at heartD and although the success o! an a%%lication !or more materials were "ery doubt!ul, an essay to obtain them was made on the 2Kth, in the !ollowing letter to the ca%tain&general# 5ir, The term o! my im%risonment being lengthened out much beyond my eB%ectation, %uts me under the necessity o! ma ing another a%%lication to $our /Bcellency !or more boo s and charts, that 6 may still %roceed in com%leting the account o! my obser"ations and disco"eries# 6! the whole were %ut into my %ossession it would be o! much ser"ice to my labour, and sa"e $our /Bcellency !rom being troubled with any !urther a%%lication on this headD but i! this will not be com%lied with, 6 beg to ma e a small selection !rom them, which will %rinci%ally consist o! a roll o! charts# 6 am not howe"er to decei"e $our /Bcellency&&this roll contains the greater %art o! my original !air charts, and 6 am desirous to ha"e them %rinci%ally !or the %ur%ose o! ma ing an abridgment o! my disco"eries u%on a single sheet# Gith all due consideration, 6 am $our /Bcellency's %risoner, Matthew Flinders# This letter was no more !ortunate than the last, and it seemed that general *e 4aen had determined u%on gi"ing me no answer to any thing# The Admiral A%lin, an eBtra&indiaman outward bound, on board o! which were se"eral o!!icers o! the army and !our ladies, had been brought in as a %riJeD the ladies with their husbands were su!!ered to remain at a ta"ern in the town, at the instance o! ca%tain Bergeret, by whose %ri"ateer, 'a Psyche, they had been ta enD the others were sent to a house at a little distance in the country, where all the /nglish o!!icers had been a short time con!ined# 6 "entured to send my ser"ant to the ta"ern, to in@uire a!ter my countrymen and womenD and they obligingly !urnished me with magaJines, news%a%ers, and a 5teele's list o! the na"y, u% to August 1E,2, which in such a %lace, and a!ter so long an ignorance o! what was %assing in /ngland, were highly acce%table# MA)49 1E,8n March 1, the inter%reter made a %ersonal a%%lication to general *e 4aen concerning the boo s and charts mentioned in my last letterD to which he recei"ed !or answer, that so soon as the go"ernor was a little !reed !rom business he would attend to this re@uest# 6 as ed M# Bonne!oy to gi"e me his o%inion o! what was li ely to be done with usN 9e re%lied that we should %robably be e%t %risoners so long as the war lasted, but might %erha%s ha"e %ermission to li"e in some interior %art o! the island, and liberty to ta e eBercise within certain limits# This o%inion sur%rised meD but 6 considered it to be that o! a man unac@uainted with the nature o! a "oyage o! disco"ery, and the interest it eBcites in e"ery nation o! the ci"ilised world, and not the least in France# To be

liberated in an honourable manner by an order o! the French go"ernment, so soon as it should be in!ormed o! my detention, a%%eared to be certainD !or whate"er colour general *e 4aen might gi"e to his %roceedings, it could not be disguised that he had arrested the commander o! a "oyage bearing a French %ass%ort, and had ta en !rom him his charts, journals, and "esselD but as yet 6 could not be %ersuaded that the general would ris the dis%leasure o! his go"ernment, and %articularly o! the !irst consul Bona%arte, by whose order my %ass%ort had been gi"en, and who had %ro!essed himsel! to be a %atron o! science# A "oyage o! disco"ery underta en u%on liberal %rinci%les, and carried on with Jeal, tem%ered with humanity towards the inhabitants o! the countries "isited, seemed to me an object to interest e"ery %erson, o! whate"er nation or %ro!ession# The %hiloso%her, or man o! general science would see his nowledge o! the globe, and o! man, its %rinci%al inhabitant, so much the object o! such a "oyage, that he might consider it as underta en !or his grati!icationD and he who %ro!essed a %articular branch, whether o! natural %hiloso%hy or natural history, would eB%ect so many new obser"ations and disco"eries in his !a"ourite %ursuit, that the "oyagers could not !ail to ha"e his best wishes !or their success# A %ro!essor o! the !ine arts might eB%ect new and stri ing subjects to be brought to light, u%on which to eBercise his genius and dis%lay his %owersD the merchant and manu!acturer would antici%ate !resh aids to their industry, and new mar ets !or its %roduceD and the seaman, !rom such a "oyage, would eB%ect the disco"ery o! new %assages and harbours, to which he might ha"e recourse either !or con"enience or sa!etyD and he would also see in it the ado%tion o! the best means !or ad"ancing his art to %er!ection# The %hilanthro%ist and Jealous 4hristian would ha"e delight in obser"ing the blessings o! ci"iliJation thus continually eBtending themsel"es, and in seeing new !ields o%ened in which to sow the seeds o! righteousnessD and e"en the man without %ro!ession, science, or Jeal, the %er!ectly idle, could not be without interest in a "oyage o! disco"ery, since the grati!ication o! curiosity is an object o! at least as much concern with them as with any other class o! men# 4onsidering, thus, a "oyage !or the in"estigation o! new countries as o! eBtensi"e interest and im%ortance, it was with di!!iculty 6 could be con"inced that there were %eo%le who thought it o! noneD or o! so little, that the %utting a sto% to it, im%risoning the commander and seiJing his charts and %a%ers, re@uired no more consideration than i! it were a common "oyage# To be e%t a %risoner so long as the war should last, did not there!ore enter into my conce%tion as within the bounds o! %robability, but it is the !ailing o! men o! all %ro!essions to o"er&rate the im%ortance o! that which they ha"e themsel"es ado%ted, and into this error it will %robably be thought 6 had !allen with res%ect to "oyages o! disco"ery# Ge had a second "isit on the +th !rom ca%tain Bergeret, to whom the %assengers o! the A%lin, and %articularly the married gentlemen, were indebted !or much attention and indulgence# 9e seemed to thin that nothing could at this time be able to %rocure our release, but that we might %erha%s be %ermitted to li"e in the countryD and he %romised to interest himsel! in it, so soon as a %ro%er time and o%%ortunity could be !ound !or s%ea ing to the ca%tain&general# The season was arri"ed in which, should we be set at liberty, it would be too late to attem%t a %assage round the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e in the schooner, and be!ore the return o! another year, the stores, and %erha%s the "essel itsel! might be rottenD and ha"ing no ho%e to obtain an answer to a letter, 6 re@uested M# Bonne!oy to ma e an a%%lication to the general !or %ermission to sell the 4umberland# Ten days a!terward the inter%reter in!ormed me, that general *e 4aen had s%o en to him o! my

wish to li"e in the country, which had been made nown to him by ca%tain BergeretD and he desired him to tell me, Cto ha"e a little %atience, he should soon come to some determination u%on my a!!airDC being s%o en to u%on the sale o! the 4umberland, his re%ly was, Ca little %atience, it is time enough yetDC and when the charts and boo s !or which 6 had a%%lied on Feb# 2K were mentioned, he still ga"e the same answer# My %eo%le were brought on shore on the 22rd, with other British subjects !rom the %rison shi%, in order to be sent to a district called Flac@, on the east side o! the islandD and this circumstance con!irmed my sus%icion that it was not intended to liberate us until orders were recei"ed !rom France# Mr# 4harrington, the boatswain, was %ermitted to s%ea to me in the %resence o! an o!!icer be!ore their de%artureD and a!ter learning the condition o! the %oor %risoners, 6 recommended him to ee% our %eo%le as clean in their %ersons and regular in their conduct as circumstances would %ermitD and not to attem%t any esca%e, since we must be liberated in siB or eight months by order o! the French go"ernment# 8ne o! them, the Prussian who had beha"ed so ill, had gone away in the 5%anish !rigate Fama, by %ermission o! the FrenchD the others had been e%t strictly on board the %rison shi% a!ter the de%arture o! the three *utch men o! war# Although se"eral %riJes had been brought in, the number o! /nglish %risoners was inconsiderableD owing to some o! the "essels being manned with lascars who were not con!ined and in %art to the sailors ha"ing been induced to enter on board the French %ri"ateers, !or the sa e o! obtaining more %ro"isions and to a"oid being e%t in irons# 6 had hitherto !orborne to write any letters to /ngland, whether %ublic or %ri"ate, but what %assed o%en through the o!!ice o! the town major, that no %lea, e"en what arbitrary %ower could construe into such, might be ta en !or continuing our im%risonmentD but the arri"al o! letters thus sent being eBceedingly %roblematical, and my ho%e o! liberation !rom general *e 4aen ha"ing disa%%eared, the moti"e !or this !orbearance had ceased to eBist# An account was there!ore written to the secretary o! the Admiralty o! my arri"al, rece%tion, and treatment in Mauritius, inclosing co%ies o! all the letters written or recei"edD that my 'ords 4ommissioners might be enabled to ta e %ro%er measures !or obtaining our liberty and the restitution o! my charts and journalsD es%ecial care was ta en at the same time, to a"oid the mention o! any thing which could be thought to in!ringe on the %ass%ort, as much as i! it had remained in"iolate on the %art o! general *e 4aen# This letter was inclosed to a !riend in 'ondon, and sent by the way o! AmericaD and 6 a!terwards learned !rom the %ublic %a%ers that it was recei"ed in the August !ollowing# The end o! March had arri"ed, and nothing more was said o! our %ermission to reside in the countryD and being most heartily weary o! close con!inement, 6 re@uested to be remo"ed to the same %lace with the British o!!icers, %risoners o! warD the house where they were e%t being described to be large, and surrounded with a wall inclosing about two acres o! ground, within which the %risoners were allowed to ta e eBercise# 8n the 2,th colonel Monistrol came to con!er on the subject, and neBt day conducted me to the house !or the %ur%ose o! choosing two rooms# 9e said on the way that the house was originally built by a surgeon named *es%eauB, and now hired by the go"ernment at twenty&!i"e dollars %er month to accommodate the /nglish gentlemenD that it was "ery s%acious, and had !ormerly lodged the ambassadors sent by Ti%%oo 5ultaun to this islandD 6 !ound it to be situate about a mile north&east !rom our ta"ern in the middle o! the town, and enjoying a !resh air which, in com%arison with our %lace o! con!inement, made me thin it a %aradise#

A!ter the un%leasant tas o! selecting two rooms, which colonel Monistrol, ordered to be "acated by the o!!icers who were in %ossession, he returned with me to the townD and %romised at %arting to s%ea again to the ca%tain&general concerning my charts and boo s# This little wal o! a mile showed how debilitating is the want o! eBercise and !resh air, !or it was not without the assistance o! colonel Monistrol's arm, that 6 was able to get through it# 4on"eyances were sent in the e"ening !or our trun s, and we too %ossession o! our new %rison with a considerable degree o! %leasureD this change o! situation and surrounding objects %roducing an eBhilaration o! s%irits to which we had long been strangers# 49APT/) V# Prisoners in the Maison *es%eauB or Garden Prison# A%%lication to admiral 'inois# 5%y&glasses and swords ta en# 5ome %a%ers restored# 8%inions u%on the detention o! the 4umberland# 'etter o! ca%tain Baudin# An /nglish s@uadron arri"es o!! Mauritius( its conse@uences# Arri"al o! a French o!!icer with des%atches, and obser"ations thereon# Passages in the Moniteur, with remar s# Mr# A en liberated# Arri"al o! cartels !rom 6ndia# A%%lication made by the mar@uis Gellesley# *i!!erent treatment o! /nglish and French %risoners# PriJes brought to Mauritius in siBteen months# *e%arture o! all %risoners o! war# Permission to @uit the Garden Prison# Astronomical obser"ations# .AT MA;)6T6;5# GA)*/< P)658<#3 AP)6' 1E,Ge lost no time in eB%loring our new %lace o! con!inement, and in ma ing ac@uaintance with our !ellow %risoners# These were major 5hi%%ard and Mr# G# 9# )obertson, who had come !rom 6ndia during the %eace on account o! their health, and been detainedD the ca%tains Mathews, *ansey, and 'oane, and Mr# Mc4rae o! the 6ndian army, ta en in the Admiral A%linD and Messrs# *ale and 5eymour o! 9# M# !rigate 'a *e*aigneuse, who ha"ing been sent with a %riJe to Bombay had !allen in with the cor"ette 'e Belier, and been brought to Mauritius# The o!!icers o! merchant shi%s, at !irst con!ined in the Garden Prison, had a !ew days be!ore been sent out to Flac@D and the !our remaining o!!icers o! the army ta en in the A%lin, were allowed, at the intercession o! ca%tain Bergeret, to dwell with their wi"es at a %lantation in the @uarter o! Pam%lemousses, about siB miles !rom the %ort# M# Bonne!oy, the inter%reter, continued to "isit us occasionallyD and ga"e some use!ul assistance in !orming our little establishment, by %rocuring the restitution o! a %art o! my %ri"ate %ro%erty le!t in the 4umberland, and obtaining a %ermanent %ermission !or my ser"ant to %ass the sentinel at the gate# 8ur lodging and table in the 4a!e Marengo had been de!rayed by the go"ernmentD and during the !irst month, siB dollars %er day, being two !or each %erson, had been chargedD but the A%re!etA, thin ing this too much, had !iBed the allowance at 11+ dollars %er month,

!or which the ta"ern ee%er agreed to su%%ly us nearly as be!ore# 8n being remo"ed to the Garden Prison, the inter%reter in!ormed me with some degree o! shame, that a !urther reduction o! ele"en dollars %er month had been ordered, to go towards %aying the rent o! the houseD which is %erha%s the !irst instance o! men being charged !or the accommodation o! a %rison# Towards the middle o! the month, rear&admiral 'inois came into %ort a!ter his unsuccess!ul attem%t u%on our 4hina !leet, the same in which my o!!icers and %eo%le were %assengers# As 6 belie"ed the want o! nautical in!ormation, and es%ecially u%on the usages ado%ted towards "oyages o! disco"ery, had materially contributed to the eBtraordinary %roceedings o! general *e 4aen, it seemed %robable that an eBamination o! my conduct and %a%ers by the rear&admiral might clear u% the a!!airD and this ho%e, with the character o! the admiral as an u%right and humane man, induced me to write to him# 6 described the leading circumstances o! my "oyage, and situation at that timeD and said, C6 should willingly undergo an eBamination by the ca%tains o! your s@uadron, and my %a%ers would either %ro"e or dis%ro"e my assertions# 6! it be !ound that 6 ha"e committed any act o! hostility against the French nation or its allies, my %ass%ort will become !or!eited, and 6 eB%ect no !a"ourD but i! my conduct hath been altogether consistent with the %ass%ort, 6 ho%e to be set at liberty, or at least to be sent to France !or the decision o! the go"ernment#C Admiral 'inois had the %oliteness to return an immediate answerD but said, that not being in the %ort at the time o! my arri"al, it belonged to the ca%tain&general to a%%reciate the moti"es o! my sto%%ing at the 6sle o! France, and to determine the time o! my momentary detention# C<e"ertheless 5ir,C he added, Cbelie"e, that ta ing an interest in your situation, 6 shall ha"e the honour to s%ea to the ca%tain&general concerning itD and shall be !lattered in contributing to your being set at liberty#C ;n!ortunately a di!!erence arose between the admiral and general *e 4aenD and the answer gi"en to the a%%lication was, that my case ha"ing been submitted to the French go"ernment, his re@uest could not be com%lied with# 4a%tain 9algan o! the French cor"ette 'e Berceau, ha"ing been in /ngland during the short %eace and heard my "oyage there mentioned, as well as by the o!!icers o! 'e Geogra%he, did me the !a"our o! a "isit more than once# 9e testi!ied a li"ely interest in my situation, and o!!ered %ecuniary assistance i! wantedD and being a!terwards ordered to France, a%%lied !or me to be sent on board his shi%D which being re!used, he obligingly too a letter to ca%tain Melius o! 'e Geogra%he, and two others !or /ngland which were %unctually sent# 6n May .MA$ 1E,-3 6 addressed a letter to 9is /Bcellency the mar@uis Gellesley, go"ernor&general o! British 6ndia, gi"ing an account o! my im%risonment# The character o! general *e 4aen %ermitted but little ho%e to be entertained !rom the inter!erence o! 9is 'ordshi%, but it seemed %ro%er to ac@uaint him with the circumstancesD and it was %ossible that some un!oreseen occurrence might %ut it in the %ower o! the mar@uis to demand my liberty in a way not to be re!used( in all these letters 6 continued to adhere most scru%ulously to the line o! %er!ect neutrality indicated by the %ass%ort# A detention o! some months longer, until orders should arri"e !rom France, a%%eared now to be ine"itable, and the ca%tain&general, by withholding the charts, %a%ers, and log boo , seemed to desire that nothing should ta e o!! my attention !rom !eeling the weight o! his %owerD but both Mr# A en and mysel! contri"ed to %ass some months neither uselessly nor disagreeably# Ge associated at table with Mr# )obertson and

the two young gentlemen o! the *edaigneuse, by which our society was enli"enedD and between the em%loyments o! co%ying my bearing boo and de!aced journals, ma ing some astronomical obser"ations, reading, and the amusements o! music, wal ing in the inclosure, and an old billiard table le!t in the house, the days %assed along rather lightly than otherwise# A %risoner or two were occasionally added to our number !rom the %riJes brought inD but when amounting to siB or eight, they were marched o!! to join the other merchant o!!icers at Flac@# The seamen there were e%t closely con!inedD but the o!!icers enjoyed some share o! liberty, and were as ha%%y as they could ma e themsel"es u%on !ourteen dollars a month, in a %lace where the necessaries o! li!e were eBorbitantly dearD the hos%itality o! the French !amilies in the neighbourhood, howe"er, aided them considerably, and they s%o e o! the indness and attention recei"ed in high terms# :;</ 1E,8n :une 1, ca%tain <eu!"ille, the o!!icer commanding the guard o"er the Prison, demanded all the s%y&glasses in our %ossessionD at the same time %romising that each should be returned when the owner had %ermission to @uit the island, and threatening those with close con!inement in the tower, by whom any glass should be concealed# There was no cause to doubt the authority ca%tain <eu!"ille had to ma e the threat, but it should seem he had none to %romise the restitution o! the glassesD !or 6 saw all the o!!icers de%art, and to the best o! my nowledge not one o! them could obtain their own# Ghen Mr# )obertson @uitted the island, and he was one o! the !irst, his s%y&glass was not to be !ound# The French gentleman to whom he delegated his claim, wrote to the town major u%on the subjectD and the answer was, that all arms and instruments ta en !rom %risoners o! war were the law!ul %ro%erty o! the ca%tors, as a reward !or their courageD that !or himsel!, he had not ta en ad"antage o! this right, but had gi"en the glass in @uestion to an o!!icer o! 'a 5emillante, to be used against the enemies o! his country# This answer not a%%earing satis!actory, the gentleman re%lied that he did not understand how a s%y&glass, belonging to a surgeon, as Mr# )obertson was, could be construed into arms or instruments o! war# The owner had come to the island on account o! his health, %re"iously to the war, and been detained, there!ore no eBtraordinary courage had been dis%layed in his caseD and as these circumstances must ha"e been !orgotten by the major, he ho%ed the glass would be restored according to %romise# To this no answer was returnedD and whether all the glasses were gi"en away, or how dis%osed o! 6 did not learn, but had to regret the loss o! two# To the measure o! ta ing away our s%y&glasses was added that o! nailing u% the door leading to the !lat roo! o! the house# At sunset the sentinel was accustomed to @uit the outer gate, and to be %osted be!ore the door o! the %rison to %re"ent any %erson going into the inclosure a!ter that timeD then it was that a wal u%on the roo!, a!ter the heat o! the day was %assed, became a real %leasureD but o! this we were now de%ri"ed#7 8n the !ollowing day a demand was made by a serjeant o! in"alids, who li"ed in the house as %olice o!!icer, o! the swords and all other arms in %ossession o! the %risoners, and o! mine amongst the restD but not choosing to deli"er u% my sword in this manner, 6 addressed a short letter to the ca%tain&general, re%resenting that it was inconsistent with my situation in 9is Britannic Majesty's ser"ice to do soD 6 was ready to deli"er it to an o!!icer bearing 9is /Bcellency's order, but re@uested that o!!icer might be o! e@ual ran to mysel!# 6n a wee ca%tain <eu!"ille called to say, that it was altogether a mista e o! the serjeant that my arms had been as ed !or, and he was sorry it had ta en %laceD had

the ca%tain&general meant to demand my sword, it would ha"e been done by an o!!icer o! e@ual ran D but he had no intention to ma e me a %risoner until he should recei"e orders to that e!!ect# The eB%lanation attending this a%ology seemed to be strangeD and the neBt time ca%tain <eu!"ille came to the house 6 obser"ed to him, that it a%%eared singular, a!ter ha"ing been con!ined siB months, to be told 6 was not a %risoner, and as ed him to eB%lain it# 9e said, no certainly, 6 was not a %risoner&&my sword had not been ta en awayD that 6 was sim%ly detained !or reasons which he did not %retend to %enetrate, and %ut under Asur"eillanceA !or a short %eriod# .7 6t being a!terward sus%ected, and not without reason, that some o! the gentlemen had !orced the door, we were o!!icially in!ormed that the sentinels had recei"ed orders to shoot any one who might be seen on the roo!D this %roduced greater circums%ection, but the %leasure o! the wal and ha"ing a "iew o! the sea was such, that it did not wholly remedy the e"il#3 6n this a!!air o! the sword 6 thought mysel! rather handsomely treatedD but about three months a!terward, one o! the lower o!!icers o! the sta!! came to demand it in the name o! the town major, by order o! the ca%tain&general# Ghen told the circumstances which had occurred u%on the same subject, he said the general had consented to my wish at that time, but had since altered his mindD and u%on the %romise o! sending an o!!icer o! e@ual ran , he said there was no o!!icer o! the same ran at that time in readiness&&that colonel *'Arson"al >the town major? would himsel! ha"e come had he not been engaged# 6 might, by a re!usal, ha"e gi"en the o!!icer the trouble o! searching my trun s, and %erha%s ha"e recei"ed some !urther degradationD but since the order had come !rom the general, who had bro en his word, my sword was deli"ered, with the obser"ation that 6 should not !orget the manner o! its being ta en# The o!!icer described himsel! as Alieutenant&adjutant de %laceAD he conducted himsel! with %oliteness, and did not as i! 6 or Mr# A en had any other wea%ons# A seaman o! the 4umberland and another %risoner !rom Flac@ made their a%%earance one morning behind the wall o! our inclosure# They had come to ma e a com%laint o! the scantiness o! their %ro"isionsD !or besides bread, they had only siB ounces o! meat or !ish in the day, without salt or "egetables, which a!!orded them but a %oor dinner and was their only meal in twenty&!our hours# 5e"eral %etitions and com%laints had been made to the o!!icer who had charge o! them, but without e!!ectD and they at length resol"ed that two o! their number should esca%e out o! the %rison, and go to the A%re!etA to ma e their com%laint# 6t was to be !eared that they would be considered as %risoners attem%ting to esca%e, i! !ound o%enly in the townD and there!ore, a!ter gi"ing them money to satis!y their immediate hunger, my ser"ant was sent with them and a note to the inter%reter, re@uesting he would be good enough to ta e them to the town major's o!!ice, where they might tell their storyD and the result was, that they were %ut on board the %rison shi%, and e%t in irons !or se"eral wee s# Mr# 4harrington, my boatswain, had hitherto been treated as a common seamanD but through the obliging mediation o! M# Bonne!oy, the allowance and %ortion o! liberty granted to mates o! merchant shi%s were obtained !or himD and by two or three o%%ortunities 6 sent tea and a !ew dollars to the seamen, on !inding they were so miserably !ed# 6n the middle o! this month, two o! the o!!icers who had resided with their wi"es at Pam%lemousses, obtained %ermission to go on their %arole to 6ndia, through the interest o! ca%tain Bergeret# This worthy man had

!re@uently come to the Garden Prison, and at this time undertoo to a%%ly to the ca%tain&general !or my boo s and %a%ers, and !or Mr# A en and mysel! to be remo"ed to Pam%lemousses# :;'$ 1E,8n the 2nd o! :uly he called early with in!ormation o! ha"ing succeeded in both a%%licationsD he had e"en "entured to %ro%ose my being sent to France, but to this it was answered, that the a!!air being submitted to the decision o! the go"ernment, 6 must remain until its orders were recei"ed# 6n a !ew days M# Bonne!oy conducted me to the secretary's o!!ice, and 6 too out o! the sealed trun all the boo s, charts, and %a%ers which re@uired any additions, or were necessary to the !inishing o! othersD as also a bundle o! %a%ers containing my %ass%ort commission, etc#, and the shattered accounts o! the 6n"estigator's stores# For these a recei%t was re@uired, the same as be!oreD but the third "olume o! my log boo , !or which so many a%%lications had been made, was still re!used# Gord had been sent me %ri"ately, that Athe trun had been o%ened and co%ies ta en o! the chartsA, but to judge !rom a%%earances this was not trueD and on %utting the @uestion to colonel Monistrol, whether the trun or %a%ers had been disturbed, he answered by an un@uali!ied negati"e# 6n regard to our li"ing in the country, the general had said to ca%tain Bergeret, Che should thin !urther u%on itDC and this we were gi"en to understand must be considered as a retraction o! his %romise( a second eBam%le o! how little general *e 4aen res%ected his own word# 4harles 'ambert, /s@#, owner o! the Althaea indiaman, brought in some time be!ore as a %riJe, ha"ing obtained %ermission to go to /ngland by the way o! America, and no restriction being laid u%on him as to ta ing letters, had the goodness to recei"e a %ac et !or the Admiralty, containing co%ies o! the charts constructed here and se"eral other %a%ers# A;G;5T 1E,6n August 6 !ound means o! sending to 6ndia, !or Port :ac son, a letter addressed to go"ernor =ingD describing my second %assage through Torres' 5trait, and the bad state o! the 4umberland which had obliged me to sto% at Mauritius, with the %articulars o! my im%risonment and the !ate o! his des%atches# This letter was recei"ed in the A%ril !ollowing, and eBtracts !rom it were %ublished in the 5ydney gaJetteD wherein was made a com%arison between my treatment in Mauritius and that o! ca%tain Baudin at Port :ac son, as described by himsel! and ca%tain Melius# This account was co%ied into the ATimesA o! 8ct# 1I, 1E,M, whence it a!terwards came to my nowledge# 8ne ad"antage o! being con!ined in the Garden Prison rather than at the 4a!e Marengo, was in the !re@uency o! "isitors to one or other o! the %risonersD %ermissions were re@uired to be obtained !rom the town major, but these were seldom re!used to %eo%le o! res%ectability# 6n this manner we became ac@uainted with all the %ublic news, and also with the o%inions entertained in the island u%on the subject o! my im%risonment# Those who new that 6 had a %ass%ort, and was con!ined u%on sus%icion only, thought the conduct o! the ca%tain&general se"ere, im%olitic, and unjustD and some who %retended to ha"e in!ormation !rom near the !ountain head, hinted that i! his in"itation to dinner had been acce%ted, a !ew days

would ha"e been the whole o! my detention# 8thers understood my %ass%ort and %a%ers to ha"e been lost in the shi%wrec , and that it was uncertain whether 6 were the commander o! the eB%edition on disco"ery or notD whilst many, not concei"ing that their go"ernor could thus treat an o!!icer em%loyed in the ser"ice o! science without his ha"ing gi"en some "ery su!!icient cause, naturally enough made a "ariety o! un!a"ourable conjectures, and in due time, that is, when these conjectures had %assed through se"eral hands, re%orts were in circulation o! my ha"ing chased a "essel on shore on the south side o! the island&&o! soundings and sur"eys o! the coast !ound u%on me&&and o! ha"ing @uarrelled with the go"ernor o! <ew 5outh Gales, who had re!used to certi!y on my %ass%ort the necessity o! @uitting the 6n"estigator and embar ing in the 4umberlandD and this last seemed to ha"e ac@uired credit# 6 will not %retend to say, that general *e 4aen had any %art in %ro%agating these re%orts, !or the %ur%ose o! satis!ying the curiosity o! an in@uisiti"e %ublic and turning its attention !rom the truth, though !ar !rom thin ing it im%robableD be that as it may, the nature o! my "oyage, our shi%wrec , the long %assage made in the little 4umberland, and our se"ere im%risonment, had eBcited a considerable degree o! interestD and 6 was told that this im%risonment had been mentioned in an anonymous letter to the ca%tain&general, as one o! the many tyrannical acts committed in the short time he had held the go"ernment o! the island# 8ne o! the %ersons who as ed %ermission to see me, was M# Augustin Baudin, brother o! the deceased commander o! 'e Geogra%heD he testi!ied the grate!ul sense his brother had always entertained o! the generous rece%tion and great assistance recei"ed !rom go"ernor =ing at Port :ac son, and eB%ressed his own regret at not being able to do any thing !or my release# 8n learning !rom him that a letter still eBisted, written by ca%tain Baudin to a member o! the tribunal o! a%%eal in Mauritius, 6 succeeded in obtaining an eBtract, o! which the !ollowing is an eBact translation# 8n board 'e Geogra%he, <ew 9olland, Port :ac son, the 2rd *ecember, 1E,2# A!ter ha"ing tra"ersed the sea in di!!erent directions !or nine months a!ter lea"ing Timor, 6 came to Port :ac son to %ass the winter# The scur"y had then made such ra%id %rogress, that 6 had no more than twel"e men !it !or duty when 6 arri"ed in this colony# The succours which were la"ishly bestowed, the a!!ectionate and obliging cares o! go"ernor =ing, his unremitting conduct and %roceedings beyond eBam%le, e"ery thing in !ine, has concurred to ma e the e!!ects o! this disorder less !atal than the !irst >a dysentery contracted at Timor?, although the cause was not less serious# 6 cannot %ass in silence an act o! humanity to which our situation ga"e rise# These are the !acts# 8n our arri"al at Port :ac son, to the number o! a hundred and se"enty %ersons, the resources in corn were !ar !rom abundantD a great inundation and the o"er!lowing o! the )i"er 9aw esbury, ha"ing in %art destroyed the har"est which was u%on the e"e o! being got in, and the !ollowing one being distant and uncertain, was not a !ortunate circumstance !or us# <e"ertheless we were made %er!ectly welcome, and so soon as our %resent and !uture wants were nown, the ration gi"en daily to the inhabitants and the garrison was reduced one&hal!# The go"ernor and the ci"il and military o!!icers set the eBam%le o! this generosity, which was immediately !ollowed by the others# Ge were not only strangers, but still at war, !or the news o! the %eace was not yet nown#

The original eBtract in my %ossession, is certi!ied to be true by the gentleman to whom the letter was addressed# 6ts contents a!!ord a contrast to the %roceedings o! the go"ernor o! Mauritius, too stri ing to re@uire any comment# Amongst the ac@uaintances !ormed whilst in the Garden Prison, the most agreeable, most use!ul, and at the same time durable, was that o! a young French merchantD a man well in!ormed, a !riend to letters, to science, and the artsD who s%o e and wrote /nglish, and had read many o! our best authors# To him 6 am %rinci%ally indebted !or ha"ing %assed some agreeable days in %rison, and his name there!ore merits a %lace in this history o! the mis!ortune which his !riendshi% contributed to alle"iateD nor am 6 the sole /nglish %risoner who will mention the name o! AThomas PitotA with eulogium# 8n the 2Kth, an /nglish s@uadron consisting o! two shi%s o! the line and two !rigates, under the command o! ca%tain :ohn 8sborn, arri"ed to cruise o!! the island# 5/PT/MB/) 1E,5ome days a!terward, my boatswain and siB o! the merchant o!!icers, %risoners at Flac@, made their esca%e to one o! the shi%s# The ca%tain&general, in a %aroBysm o! rage, ordered the o!!icer commanding at Flac@ to be dismissed, and e"ery /nglishman in the island, without distinction, to be closely con!inedD neither %aroles o! honour, nor sureties, nor %ermissions %re"iously gi"en to de%art, being res%ected# 5iB were brought to the Garden Prison, o! whom the ca%tains Mo!!at and 9enry !rom Pam%lemousses were two, and their wi"es !ollowed them# The seamen and remaining o!!icers !rom Flac@ %assed our gate under a strong guard, and were marched to an old hos%ital about one mile on the south&west side o! the townD where the seamen were shut u% in the lower, and the o!!icers in the u%%er a%artment, there being only two rooms# The arri"al o! the s@uadron ga"e the %risoners a ho%e o! being released, either !rom a general eBchange, or !or such Frenchmen as our shi%s might ta e whilst cruising o!! the islandD e"en Mr# A en and mysel!, since our swords had been ta en away, concei"ed some ho%es, !or we were then %risoners according to the de!inition o! M# <eu!"ille# There was, howe"er, no intercourse with the s@uadron until the 1Ith, on which, and the two !ollowing days, a !rigate was lying o!! the %ort with a !lag o! truce hoisted, and boats %assed and re%assed between her and the shore# 8ur anBiety to now the result was not a littleD and we soon learned that ca%tain 4oc burne o! the Phaeton had come in !or the %ur%ose o! seeing general *e 4aenD but on entering the %ort he had been met, blind!olded, and ta en on board the %rison shi%, which was also the guard shi%D that !inding he could not see the general, and that no o!!icer was sent to treat with him, he le!t a %ac et !rom ca%tain 8sborn and returned in disgust# 9is mission, we were told, was to negotiate an eBchange o! %risoners, %articularly mineD but in the answer gi"en by general *e 4aen it was said, that not being a %risoner o! war, no eBchange !or me could be acce%tedD nor did any one obtain his liberty in conse@uence# 84T8B/) 1E,Few %ersons were admitted to the Garden Prison during the %resence o! the /nglish s@uadronD but it did not %re"ent ca%tain Bergeret and M# Bonne!oy !rom coming occasionally# 6n the end o! 8ctober 6 learned with much regret, that the inter%reter had been dismissed !rom his em%loyment, in

conse@uence o! ha"ing carried only one co%y o! the same news%a%er to general *e 4aen, when two had been !ound in an American "essel which he had boarded o!! the %ort, according to customD the other had been communicated to some o! his !riends, which was deemed an irremissible o!!ence# This obliging man, to whom 6 was under obligations !or many acts o! attention and some o! real ser"ice, !eared to as any !uture %ermission to "isit the Garden Prison# Admiral 'inois arri"ed !rom a cruise on the 21st, with three rich %riJes, and got into Port Bourbon unim%eded by our shi%s, which were o!! another %art o! the islandD and the same e"ening commodore 8sborn @uitted Mauritius# Mr# )obertson and Mr# Gebb o! the A%lin were now %ermitted to go to /ngland by the way o! America .<8V/MB/) 1E,-3D and 6 too the good o%%ortunity o! sending by the !irst o! these gentlemen a co%y o! the general chart o! Terra Australis, com%rehending the whole o! my disco"eries and eBaminations in abridgment, and a %a%er on the magnetism o! shi%s addressed to the %resident o! the )oyal 5ociety#7 Four o!!icers o! the army also obtained %ermission to go to 6ndia, on condition o! returning, should !our French o!!icers whose names were s%eci!ied, be not sent bac in eBchangeD and two other gentlemen le!t the Garden Prison, and the island soon a!terward# 6n lieu o! these, were sent in ca%tain Turner and lieutenant 4artwright o! the 6ndian army, and the o!!icers o! the Princess 4harlotte indiaman# .7 This %a%er was read be!ore the 5ociety, and %ublished in the Transactions o! 1E,M, Part 66#3 By in!ormation recei"ed !rom the Grande&)i"iere %rison, where the merchant o!!icers and the seamen were con!ined, it a%%eared that my siB remaining %eo%le, and no doubt many others, were "ery miserable and almost na edD ha"ing been hurried o!! suddenly !rom Flac@, and com%elled to lea"e their !ew clothes behind# 8n this occasion 6 addressed the ca%tain&general on the score o! humanity, intreating him either to order their clothes to be restored, or that they should be !urnished with othersD and on the same day an answer was returned in the most %olite manner by colonel *'Arson"al, saying that an order had been gi"en !or all the %risoners to be !resh clothed, and their wants su%%lied# 5iB wee s a!terward, howe"er, !inding that the %oor seamen remained in the same na ed state as be!ore, 6 wrote to remind the town major o! what he had saidD re@uesting at the same time, i! it were not intended to gi"e these un!ortunate men any clothing, that Mr# A en might be %ermitted to "isit them, in order to relie"e their urgent necessities !rom my own %urse# <o answer was returned to this letter, but it %roduced the desired e!!ect# */4/MB/) 1E,My ho%es o! a s%eedy liberation by an order o! the !irst consul became wea ened in *ecember, on seeing nothing arri"e to con!irm them a!ter a whole year's im%risonment# 8n the 1Kth 6 wrote to remind the ca%tain&general that one year had ela%sedD and re@uested him to consider that the chance o! war rendered the arri"al o! des%atches uncertain&&that 6 was su!!ering an irretrie"able loss o! time, and "ery se"erely in my health, ad"ancement, and e"ery thing that man holds dearD 6 begged him to re!lect, that the rights o! the most se"ere justice would be ensured by sending me to France, where the decision o! my !ate was remittedD and where, should the judgment o! the French go"ernment be !a"ourable, it could be immediately !ollowed by a return to my country and !amily, and the resum%tion o! my %eaceable labours# <o answer being gi"en at the end o! a wee , a second letter was sent, inclosing a co%y o! the eBtract !rom

ca%tain BaudinD and 9is /Bcellency was re@uested to com%are the treatment o! the French commander at Port :ac son with what 6 had recei"ed at Mauritius, and at least to gi"e Mr# A en and mysel! the liberty o! some district in the island where we might ta e eBercise, and !ind the amusement necessary to the re&establishment o! our healthD but neither o! these letters obtained any re%ly, or the least notice# Mr# A en had been remo"ed to the hos%ital in 5e%tember, and a!ter a stay o! siB wee s had returned, more !rom !inding himsel! so ill accommodated and !ed than !rom the im%ro"ement in his health# 9e now declined ra%idlyD .:A<;A)$ 1E,M3 and my own health was im%aired by a constitutional gra"elly com%laint to which con!inement had gi"en accelerated !orce, and by a bilious disorder arising %artly !rom the same cause, !rom the return o! hot weather, and discouraging re!lections on our %ros%ects# Ge were there!ore "isited by *r# 'aborde, %rinci%al %hysician o! the medical sta!!, who judged the air and eBercises o! the country to be the most certain means o! restorationD and in order to our %rocuring them, he ga"e a certi!icate which 6 sent to general *e 4aen through colonel Monistrol, then become town major# <o answer was returnedD but a!ter some days it was told me that *r# 'aborde had recei"ed a message !rom the general, desiring him not to inter!ere with matters which did not concern himD and this was the sole mar o! attention %aid to his certi!icate or to our situation#7 .7 The doctor had said in his certi!icate, C:'estime @u'il !aut %re"enir 'augmentation de ses mauBD et en le secourant a%ro%os, c'est assurer la conser"ation d'un homme dont les tra"auB doi"ent ser"ir auB %rogres des sciences, et a 1'utilite de ses semblables#C3 Being thus disa%%ointed in e"ery attem%t to %rocure an amelioration !or my com%anion and mysel!, 6 sought the means o! dis%ensing with the ca%tain&general's humanity# 6 rose "ery early, and too much eBercise in our inclosure be!ore the heat o! the sun, became too %ower!ulD and a%%lied closely to the charts and accounts o! my "oyage, which ill health and a languid melancholy had !or some time caused to be neglected# By %erse"erance in these means, my disorders were at least %re"ented !rom becoming worseD but more %articularly 6 ac@uired a tran@uil state o! mind, and had e"en the ha%%iness o! !orgetting general *e 4aen, sometimes !or days together# The strength o! my com%anion was too much eBhausted !or such a regimenD and he was obliged to return to the hos%ital, being so much reduced that there was reason to !ear !or his li!e# 5e"eral military and merchant o!!icers obtained %ermissions at this time to de%art on %arole, some to 6ndia, others to AmericaD which !urnished o%%ortunities o! writing many letters# 6 addressed one to admiral )ainier, the commander in chie! o! 9is Majesty's shi%s in 6ndia, u%on the subject o! my detentionD and another to lord Gilliam Bentinc , go"ernor o! Madras, in !a"our o! two relations o! my !riend Pitot, who were %risoners under his go"ernmentD and it is with much gratitude to 9is 'ordshi% that 6 add his more than com%liance with the re@uest( he not only set the two %risoners at liberty, but used his endea"ours to %rocure my release !rom general *e 4aen# 8n the 2Ith, an American "essel arri"ed !rom France with many %assengers, and amongst them monsieur Barrois, the brother&in&law o! the general# 9e was charged with des%atchesD and 6 was told u%on good authorities that he had been sent to France in 'e Geogra%he u%on the same ser"ice, in *ecember 1E,2# The nowledge o! this !act ga"e an insight into "arious circumstances which too %lace at, and soon a!ter my arri"al at

Mauritius# 'e Geogra%he ha"ing an /nglish %ass%ort, was e@ually bound with mysel! to obser"e a strict neutralityD and the con"eyance o! an o!!icer with %ublic des%atches in time o! war was there!ore im%ro%er# 4ommon re%ort said, that ca%tain Melius objected to it, as com%romising the sa!ety o! his shi% and results o! the "oyageD but on its being nown !rom the signals that an /nglish "essel was on the south side o! the island, M# Barrois embar ed secretly, and the shi% was ordered o!! the same e"ening# 9ence 6 missed seeing her, and was arrested on arri"ing at Port 'ouis without eBaminationD and hence it a%%eared to ha"e been, that an embargo was immediately laid on all !oreign shi%s !or ten days, that none o! our cruisers might get in!ormation o! the circumstance and sto% 'e Geogra%heD hence also the truth o! what was told me in the 4a!e Marengo, that Amy con!inement did not arise !rom any thing 6 had doneA# 5uch was the res%ect %aid by general *e 4aen to the /nglish %ass%ortD and how little sacred he held that gi"en by his own go"ernment !or the %rotection o! the 6n"estigator's "oyage, will in %art ha"e already a%%eared# The conduct o! the British go"ernment and its o!!icers in these two cases was widely di!!erent# 6n conse@uence o! the /nglish %ass%ort, the Geogra%he and <aturaliste were recei"ed at Port :ac son as !riends, and treated with the indness due to their em%loyment and distressed situation, as will satis!actorily a%%ear !rom M# Peron's account o! their "oyageD and with regard to the French %ass%ort, it may be remembered that the Admiralty directed me, on lea"ing /ngland, not e"en to ta e letters or %ac ets other than such as might be recei"ed !rom that o!!ice, or that o! the secretary o! stateD and the des%atches sent !rom those o!!ices were to go"ernor =ing alone, and related solely to the 6n"estigator's "oyage# 6 was ordered to sto% at Madeira and the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, but neither to the o!!icers commanding 9is Majesty's land or sea !orces at one, nor at the other %lace was any des%atch sentD although no o%%ortunity o! writing to the 4a%e had !or some time %resented itsel!# F/B);A)$ 1E,M The return o! M# Barrois ga"e a reasonable ho%e that the ca%tain&general might ha"e recei"ed orders concerning me, and that some thing would be immediately determinedD but a whole month %assed in silence as so many others had be!ore done# 6t was re%orted, howe"er, as ha"ing come !rom the general, that the council o! state had a%%ro"ed o! the %recautions he had ta enD but whether it had decided u%on my being set at liberty, sent to France, or continued a %risoner, was not said# There were at this time only siB o!!icers in the Garden Prison, Mr# A en being still at the hos%italD lieutenant Manwaring o! the Bombay marine, be!ore commander o! the Fly %ac et, with two o! his o!!icers had %ossession o! one %art o! the house, and Messrs# *ale and 5eymour, midshi%men o! the *edaigneuse, li"ed with me in the other# These two young gentlemen, the !irst in %articular, aided me in ma ing co%ies o! charts and memoirs, in calculating astronomical obser"ations, etc#D and 6 had much %leasure in !urnishing them with boo s and assisting their studies# MA)49 1E,M 6n the beginning o! March, 6 was sur%rised to see in the o!!icial gaJette o! the French go"ernment, the Moniteur o! :uly K, 1E,-, a long letter !rom *un ir addressed to the editorD containing many %articulars o! my "oyage, %raising the Jeal with which it had been conducted, and describing my detention in Mauritius as a circumstance which had

originated in a mista e and was understood to be terminated# 6n the succeeding Moniteur o! the 11th, some obser"ations were made u%on this letter on the %art o! the go"ernment, which a!!orded some insight into what was alleged against meD and these being im%ortant to the elucidation o! general *e 4aen's %olicy, a translation o! them is here gi"en# M8<6T/;), <o# 2I2# Gednesday 22 Messidor, year 12D or :uly 11, 1E,-# 6n a letter !rom *un ir , addressed to the editor o! the Moniteur, and inserted in the %a%er o! the 1Eth o! this month, <o# 2EE, we read an account o! the "oyage o! Mr# Flinders, an /nglish na"igator, who arri"ed at the 6sle o! France the 2- Frimaire last, in the schooner 4umberland# The author o! the letter in the Moniteur says, that Mr# Flinders, ACnot nowing o! the war, sto%%ed at the 6sle o! France which was in his route, to obtain water and re!reshments( that some secret articles in his instructions ga"e rise to sus%icions u%on which the ca%tain&general at !irst thought it his duty to detain him %risonerD but that, ne"ertheless, the %ass%orts he had obtained !rom the French go"ernment and all other nations, the nature e"en o! his eB%edition which interested all ci"iliJed %eo%le, were not long in %rocuring his release#CA The !act is, that Mr# Flinders not nowing o!, but sus%ecting the war, "entured to come to the 6sle o! FranceD where ha"ing learned its declaration, he doubted whether the %ass%ort granted him by the French go"ernment in the year I, would ser"e him# 6n reality, the %ass%ort was eBclusi"ely !or the sloo% A6n"estigator, o! which it contained the descri%tionAD and it is not in the 6n"estigator that he has been arrested, but in the 4umberland# The same %ass%ort did not %ermit Mr# Flinders to sto% at French colonies but on condition that he should not de"iate !rom his route to go thereD and Mr# Flinders ac nowledges in his journal that he de"iated "oluntarily, >!or the 6sle o! France was not in his %assage, as the author o! the abo"e cited letter says?# 6n !ine, the %ass%ort granted to Mr# Flinders did not admit o! any e@ui"ocation u%on the objects o! the eB%edition !or which it was gi"en( but we read in one %art o! his journal, Athat he sus%ected the warAD and in another, Athat he had resol"ed to touch at the 6sle o! France, as well in the ho%e o! selling his "essel ad"antageously, as !rom the desire o! nowing the %resent state o! that colony, and the utility o! which it and its de%endencies in Madagascar could be to Port :ac son#A As the %ass%ort gi"en by the French go"ernment to Mr# Flinders, an /nglish na"igator, was !ar !rom admitting an eBamination o! that nature in a French colonyD it is not at all sur%rising that the ca%tain&general o! that colony has arrested himD and nothing announces as yet, that he has thought it necessary to release him# An elaborate re!utation o! these tri!ling, and in %art !alse and contradictory charges, will not, 6 should ho%e, be thought necessary# By turning to 4ha%ter 2 >*ecember?, and com%aring my reasons !or %utting in at Mauritius with what the Moniteur says, it will be seen that the necessity o! the measure, arising !rom the bad state o! the 4umberland, is e%t wholly out o! sightD and that in gi"ing the subordinate reasons, there is much omission and misre%resentation# The charges, e"en as they stand in the Moniteur, amount to nothing, i! my sus%icion o! the war be ta en awayD and it has no other !oundation than that, being a stranger to

what had %assed in /uro%e !or twel"e months, 6 thought there was a %ossibility o! war between /ngland and FranceD and thence deduced an additional reason !or sto%%ing at Mauritius where my %ass%ort would be res%ected, in %re!erence to going on to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e where it might not# This sus%icion, which is twice brought !orward, is moreo"er contradicted by in!erence, in the Moniteur itsel!# 6t says, CMr# Flinders not nowing o!, but sus%ecting the war, "entured to come to the 6sle o! FranceD where ha"ing learned its declaration, he doubted whether the %ass%ort would ser"e him#C <ow it is not credible, that with such a sus%icion, and being aware, conse@uently, o! the great im%ortance o! the %ass%ort, 6 should wait until arri"ing at the island be!ore see ing to now its %articular contentsD but going to Mauritius under the belie! o! %eace, and !inding war declared, an eBamination o! the %ass%ort was then natural# 6t is true that 6 did then entertain some a%%rehensions, !rom not !inding any %ro"ision made !or another "essel in case o! shi%wrec or other accident to the 6n"estigatorD but my con!idence in the justice and liberality o! the French go"ernment o"ercame themD and had general Magallon remained go"ernor, this con!idence would most %robably ha"e been justi!ied by the e"ent# 9ow my reasons !or sto%%ing at Mauritius were worded in the log boo , 6 certainly do not remember correctly, nor how !ar they were accom%anied with eB%lanationsD and %articular care has been ta en to %re"ent me gi"ing the words themsel"esD but is it %ossible to su%%ose, that sus%ecting the war and entertaining inimical designs, 6 should ha"e inserted this sus%icion and these designs in my common journalN 8r that, ha"ing done so, the boo would ha"e been %ut into the hands o! general *e 4aen's secretary, and these "ery %assages %ointed out !or him to co%yN $et the reasons alleged in the Moniteur, to be true, re@uire no less# The assertion that 6 ac nowledge to ha"e de"iated A"oluntarilyA !rom my route, !or the 6sle o! France was not in my %assage&&i! "oluntarily mean, Awithout necessityA, must be !alse altogether# 6 had intended to %ass the island without sto%%ing, and %robably said soD but that the intention was altered "oluntarily, could not ha"e been said, !or the AnecessityA arising !rom the bad state o! the schooner was alleged !or it# Ghether Mauritius be in the %assage !rom Timor to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, any seaman or geogra%her who nows the trade winds, can tell( it is as much in the %assage as is the 4a%e in going !rom /uro%e to 6ndia# The abo"e assertion induced me to eBamine ca%tain 4oo 's trac !rom Timor to the 4a%e, as it is traced u%on Arrowsmith's general chart, and to measure the distance !rom a certain %art o! it to Port 'ouis, and !rom thence to regain the trac really madeD and 6 !ound that his distance would not ha"e been increased so much as Aone hundred milesAD or less than the hal! o! what shi%s augment their distance by sto%%ing at Table Bay, in their route to 6ndia# 6t may %erha%s be said, that my A"oluntaryA de"iation and the island not being in the %assage, a%%ly only to my intention o! %assing Mauritius and then changing it# 6! so, the assertion could only be made !or su%er!icial readers, and contains nothingD such, in !act, are all the charges when duly eBamined, not eBce%ting the %retence that the %ass%ort was AeBclusi"ely !or the 6n"estigatorAD and more has already been said u%on them than is due to their real im%ortance# These Moniteurs, howe"er, in!ormed me o! two material circumstances&&that there was at least one %erson in France who "iewed my detention in its true light, and that the go"ernment had either been decei"ed by the re%resentations o! general *e 4aen, or coincided with his "iews !rom some secret moti"eD conse@uently, that too much reliance ought not to be %laced in an early liberation by its orders# 6 then determined to write

to monsieur *e Fleurieu, author o! the instructions to 'a Perouse, etc#, and counsellor o! state, who might be su%%osed to interest himsel! in my "oyageD and anneBed to the letter co%ies o! %a%ers showing the rece%tion gi"en to the French shi%s at Port :ac son, and the necessity which had !orced me to sto% at MauritiusD and begged him in the name o! humanity and the sciences, to use his in!luence that 6 might either be %ermitted to continue the "oyage, or otherwise be ordered to France !or eBamination# My worthy !riend Pitot wrote to the same e!!ect, to M# *e Bougain"ille, the na"igator and counsellor o! state&&to M# *e la 'ande, the astronomer&&to M# 4ha%tal, minister o! the interior&&and to M# *u%uis, counsellor o! stateD and admiral 'inois had the goodness to write to M# *e Fleurieu in !a"our o! my re@uest# At the same time 6 wrote to the secretary o! the Admiralty, inclosing a co%y o! the !irst letterD and all these being sent away in du%licate, by o%%ortunities which occurred soon a!terward, e"ery ste% seemed to ha"e been ta en that could a!!ord any ho%e o! liberty and the restitution o! my boo s and %a%ers# AP)6' 1E,M The !ate o! my o!!icers and %eo%le on board the )olla had been a subject o! some anBietyD but about this time 6 had the satis!action to learn !rom the %ublic %a%ers, that they had arri"ed sa!ely in /nglandD that lieutenant Fowler and the o!!icers and com%any o! the Por%oise had been honourably ac@uitted o! all blame !or the loss o! the shi%, and that Mr# Fowler had much distinguished himsel! in the action between the 4hina !leet and admiral 'inois' s@uadron# MA$ 1E,M Permissions being granted to se"eral %risoners to go away on their %arole in American "essels, Mr# A en, who still remained at the hos%ital, concei"ed ho%es that his might %ass amongst the rest, i! he a%%lied# 6n this notion 6 encouraged him, since my own %ros%ects were so obscureD and recommended that his %lea should turn wholly u%on his long&continued ill health, and to say nothing o! his conneBion with me# The a%%lication was made accordinglyD and on the Kth, he came to the Garden Prison with the uneB%ected in!ormation o! being then at liberty to de%art, on gi"ing his %arole Cnot to ser"e against France or its allies, until a!ter ha"ing been legally eBchangedDC that is, as a A%risoner o! war#A 6t seemed doubt!ul whether this %ermission had been granted !rom moti"es o! humanity, !rom !orget!ulness, or !rom some new %lan ha"ing been ado%tedD the general might %ossibly ha"e recei"ed orders, %ermitting him to dis%ose o! us as he should thin %ro%er, and ha"e no objection to getting rid o! me also, as a %risoner o! war, %ro"ided an a%%lication ga"e him the o%%ortunity# 6n this uncertainty o! what might be his intentions, 6 wrote to colonel Monistrol, re@uesting him to state the length o! my im%risonment and ill healthD and to mo"e 9is /Bcellency to let me de%art on %arole, or in any other way he should judge %ro%erD but it a%%eared a!ter waiting se"eral days, that the colonel !oreseeing the re@uest could answer no %ur%ose, had not laid it be!ore the ca%tain&general# 6 then resol"ed to ma e good use o! the o%%ortunity %resented by Mr# A en's de%arture, and !rom this time to that o! his sailing, was !ully occu%ied in ma ing u% my des%atchesD and Mr# A en's health being im%ro"ed, he too u% his residence in the Garden Prison !or the %ur%ose o! gi"ing his assistance# Besides a general chart o! Terra Australis, showing the whole o! my disco"eries, eBaminations and trac s in abridgment, this %ac et !or the

Admiralty contained nine sheets u%on a scale o! !our inches to a degree o! longitude, and three sheets o! %articular %arts in a larger siJeD also !i"e cha%ters o! a memoir eB%lanatory o! their construction, o! the changes in the "ariation on shi%board, etc#D an enlarged co%y o! my log boo , with remar s and astronomical obser"ations !rom the commencement o! the "oyage to @uitting the north coast o! Terra Australis in March 1E,2D and a boo containing all the bearings and angles which entered into the construction o! the charts# The time ee%er, with the mathematical and nautical instruments belonging to the <a"y Board were also sentD and in !ine, either the original or a co%y o! e"ery thing in my %ossession which related either to the 6n"estigator or the "oyage# Mr# 4am%bell, commander o! the American shi% :ames, bound to <ew $or , liberally ga"e Mr# A en and some other %risoners a %assage !ree o! eB%enseD7 and the %aroles they were re@uired to sign laying no other injunction than that o! not ser"ing until legally eBchanged, the boo s# etc# abo"e mentioned, with many letters both %ublic and %ri"ate, were sa!ely embar edD and on the 2,th in the e"ening, the shi% got under sail, to my great satis!action# 8! the ten o!!icers and men who had come with me to Mauritius, only !our now remainedD one was in the hos%ital with a bro en leg, another with me in the Garden Prison, and two were shut u% at the Grande )i"iere# A seaman had been allowed to go with Mr# A en in the :ames, and all our endea"ours were used to obtain %ermission !or the two in %rison to embar also, but without e!!ectD about a month a!terwards, howe"er, they were su!!ered to enter on board an American shi%, at the re@uest o! the commander# .7 6t gi"es me %leasure to say, that almost the whole o! the American commanders were ready to accommodate the /nglish %risoners who, !rom time to time, obtained lea"e to de%art, and the greater number without any other eB%ense than that o! laying in %ro"isions !or themsel"esD some were recei"ed on board as o!!icers !or wages, and others had a table !ound !or them without any s%eci!ied duty being re@uired# 6n most cases these were bene!icent actions, !or, as will readily be imagined, the greater %art o! the %risoners had no means o! obtaining money in MauritiusD the military o!!icers, howe"er, and those who had money at their dis%osal, were re@uired to %ay !or their %assages, and in some cases, dear enough#3 :;</ 1E,M 8n :une -, a !ortnight a!ter Mr# A en had sailed, ca%tain 8sborn again came o!! the island, with 9is Majesty's shi%s Tremendous, Gram%us, Pitt, and Ter%sichoreD and an embargo on all !oreign "essels was, as usual, the immediate conse@uence# 8n the 22rd, the shi% Thetis arri"ed !rom Bengal under cartel colours, ha"ing on board ca%tain Bergeret, with such o! his o!!icers and %eo%le as had not been illed in the action he had sustained against our !rigate the 5t# FiorenJo# This arri"al animated the s%irits o! all the %risoners in the islandD and the return o! my !riend Bergeret e"en ga"e me some ho%es, %articularly a!ter the rece%tion o! a note !rom him, %romising to use his eBertions to obtain a !a"ourable change in my situation# Mr# )ichardson, commander o! the Thetis, in!ormed us some days a!terward .:;'$ 1E,M3, that all the %risoners o! war would be allowed to go to 6ndia in his shi%, and that ho%es were entertained o! an a%%lication !or me also being success!ul# 4a%tain Bergeret did not call until the 2rd o! :uly, a!ter ha"ing used his %romised endea"ours in "ain, as 6 had !oreseen !rom the delay o! his "isitD !or e"ery good Frenchman has an in"incible disli e to be the bearer o! disagreeable intelligence# 8n the Mth, a letter came !rom Mr# 'umsden, chie! secretary o! the

go"ernment at 4alcutta, ac nowledging the recei%t o! mine addressed to the mar@uis Gellesley in May 1E,-D he said in re%ly, Cthat although the go"ernor&general had !elt the dee%est regret at the circumstances o! my detention and im%risonment, it had not been in 9is /Bcellency's %ower to remedy either be!ore the %resent time# The shi% Thetis,C he added, Cnow %roceeds to the 6sle o! France as a cartelD and 6 ha"e the honour to transmit to you the anneBed eBtract !rom the letter o! the go"ernor&general to 9is /Bcellency general *e 4aen, ca%tain&general o! the French establishments to the eastward o! the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# The go"ernor&general entertains no doubt that the ca%tain&general o! the 6sle o! France will release you immediately on recei%t o! that letter#C /HT)A4T#&&6 a"ail mysel! o! this o%%ortunity to re@uest your /Bcelleney's %articular attention to the truly se"ere case o! ca%tain FlindersD and 6 earnestly re@uest $our /Bcellency to release ca%tain Flinders immediately, and to allow him either to ta e his %assage to 6ndia in the Thetis, or to return to 6ndia in the !irst neutral shi%# Mr# 'umsden's letter and the abo"e eBtract were inclosed to me by the secretary o! general *e 4aen, who at the same time said, C6 wish with all my heart that the ca%tain&general could accede to the re@uest o! 9is /Bcellency the mar@uis GellesleyD but the moti"es o! your detention ha"ing been o! a nature to be submitted to the French go"ernment, the ca%tain&general cannot, be!ore he has recei"ed an answer, change any thing in the measures which ha"e been ado%ted on your account#C Thus whate"er ho%e had been entertained o! liberation !rom the side o! 6ndia was done away, but 6 did not !eel less gratitude to the noble mar@uis !or his attem%tD a!ter eighteen months o! indignities, this attention, and the %re"ious arri"al o! the two relations o! my !riend Pitot, set at liberty by lord Gilliam Bentinc , were grati!ying %roo!s that my situation was nown and eBcited an interest in 6ndia# An eBchange o! %risoners was soon a!terwards agreed u%on between commodore 8sborn and colonel Monistrol, with the eBce%tion o! %ost&ca%tains and commanders in the na"y and o!!icers o! similar ran in the armyD it was not said that the eBce%tions had any re!erence to ca%tain Bergeret or mysel!, the sole o!!icers in Mauritius o! the ran s s%eci!ied, but it seemed %robable# 8n the 2Eth, the shi% Prime arri"ed !rom Bombay with French %risoners, ha"ing on board lieutenant Blast o! the 4om%any's marine, as agentD admiral 'inois had met the shi% near 4eylon, and ta en se"enty&nine o! the French seamen on board his s@uadron, notwithstanding the re%resentation o! Mr# Blast that no eBchange had yet been settled# This %roceeding was said to be disa%%ro"ed by general *e 4aenD and a!terwards to be the cause o! the eBchange being declared "oid by 5ir /dward Pellew, then become commander in chie! in the 6ndian seas# A;G;5T 1E,M There was at this time an almost uncontrolled liberty to enter the Garden Prison, and 6 was !a"oured with !re@uent "isits by Mr# )ichardson o! the Thetis, and by Messrs# Blast, Madegon, and *a"ies o! the PrimeD these gentlemen, !inding they should be obliged to lea"e me behind and alone, rendered e"ery ser"ice 6 could %ermit mysel! to recei"e at their hands, and made an im%ression by their indness which will e"er be retained# From their con"ersation 6 learned what was the treatment o! French %risoners at Bengal and BombayD and the contrast it !ormed with that o! /nglish o!!icers and seamen in Mauritius, both in the degree o! liberty

and allowance !or subsistence, was indeed stri ing# 5omething has already been said u%on this subject, and much more might be saidD but it is a more agreeable tas to bestow %raise where it can with truth be gi"en# 6t is there!ore with %leasure, and with gratitude on the %art o! my un!ortunate countrymen to admiral 'inois and the o!!icers o! his s@uadron, as also to the commanders o! %ri"ateers, that 6 declare no one o! the se"eral %risoners 6 con"ersed with to ha"e made any com%laint o! themD on the contrary, almost all ac nowledged to ha"e been treated with indness Awhilst on boardA, and eBce%t sometimes a little %il!ering by the sailors, to ha"e lost nothing o! what they had a right to ee% by the recei"ed usages o! warD the trun s o! many were not searched, it being only re@uired o! the %ossessor to declare, that it was his %ri"ate %ro%erty and that no letters or journals were contained therein# Ghen the Fly %ac et was ta en by the %ri"ateer 'a Fortune, lieutenant Manwaring's table %late and time ee%er were returned to himD and his treatment by M# 'ameme was altogether so liberal, when com%ared with the usual conduct o! %ri"ateers in /uro%e, as to merit being cited# 6n order to gi"e some notion o! the mischie! done to British commerce in 6ndia, by shi%s !rom Mauritius, an abstract o! all the ca%tures made in the !irst siBteen months o! the war, so !ar as they came to our nowledge in the Garden Prison, is subjoined# There are %robably se"eral omissionsD and the su%%osed "alues anneBed to them are the least that can be estimated, %erha%s not eBceeding two&thirds o! the %rime cost# By admiral 'inois' s@uadron, three 6ndiamen and !i"e country shi%s mostly large, ' M,M,,,, By 'a Psyche %ri"ateer, one 6ndiaman and two %ri"ate shi%s, IM,,,, 'a 9enriette, siB shi%s and small "essels, 1M,,,,, 'a Fortune, one %ac et, three shi%s, !our small "essels, 1,2,,,, 4utter commanded by 5urcou!, !our "essels, KM,,,, ''Al!red, one shi%, 1,,,,, 'e Pariah, one shi%, 1,,,,, &&&&&&&& Brought into Port 'ouis, I-E,,,, 5hi%s nown to ha"e been sent to France or Bata"ia, run on shore, or sun at sea, 2,,,,,, Mischie! done at Bencoolen by admiral 'inois' s@uadron, E,,,,,, &&&&&&&& /stimated loss to British commerce in 1+ months, 1I-E,,,, &&&&&&&&

The sailing o! the Thetis and Prime, and o! a little brig named the Ariel which had brought %risoners !rom 4eylon, was delayed until the cruising s@uadron had le!t the island# 8n the 12th commodore 8sborn too his de%arture, and my young !riends *ale and 5eymour @uitted the Garden PrisonD the !irst carrying !or me a letter to 5ir /dward Pellew, gi"ing an account o! my situation, and another to Mr# 'umsden, in!orming him o! the little success attending the go"ernor&general's re@uest# 6n the e"ening o! the same day the cartels sailedD and 6 remained with my ser"ant, who re!used to %ro!it by the occasion o! obtaining his liberty, and my lame seaman, the sole /nglish %risoners at Mauritius# 4a%tain Bergeret in!ormed me two days a!terward, that the general was

dis%osed to %ermit o! my residence in the interior %art o! the islandD and he ad"ised a written a%%lication to be made, s%eci!ying the %lace o! my choice# A!ter consulting with M# Pitot, who had recei"ed se"eral o!!ers to accommodate me !rom di!!erent %arts o! the island, 6 wrote on the 1Kth, %ointing out the %lantation o! Madame *'Ari!at at Gilhems PlainsD which being at some distance !rom the sea, seemed least liable to objection# 8n the 1Ith, a %olite note !rom colonel Monistrol said that my re@uest was grantedD and he sent word neBt day, that 6 was at liberty to @uit the Garden Prison, and %ass two or three days in town %re"iously to going into the countryD and being im%ortuned by my !riend Pitot to s%end the e"ening with him, immediate ad"antage was ta en o! the %ermission# 8n ta ing lea"e o! the old serjeant, who had beha"ed indly to all the %risoners, and !inding mysel! without side the iron gate, 6 !elt that e"en a %rison one has long inhabited is not @uitted without some sentiment o! regret, unless it be to recei"e liberty# 8! the twenty months which my detention had now reached, more than siBteen had been %assed in the Garden Prison, sometimes rather lightly, but the greater %art in bitternessD and my strength and a%%earance were so changed, that 6 !elt to be scarcely recognisable !or the same %erson who had su%%orted so much !atigue in eB%loring the coasts o! Terra Australis# Various obser"ations had been ta en in the Garden Prison, both by Mr# A en and mysel!, %rinci%ally !or our amusement and to eBercise Messrs# *ale and 5eymour in the calculations# The corrected results o! my obser"ations were as !ollow( A'atitudeA !rom eight meridian altitudes o! the sun, ta en with a seBtant and arti!icial horiJon, 2, deg# I' 12#MC 5# A'ongitudeA !rom twenty&se"en sets o! lunar distances, the %articulars o! which are gi"en in Table 6H# o! the !irst A%%endiB to this "olume, MK deg# 2,' -2C /# AVariationA o! the theodolite !rom aJimuths a#m# and %#m# 11 deg# -2' 2,C G# The middle o! the town being nearly one mile south&west !rom the %rison, its situation should be( Port 'ouis, latitude 2, deg# I' M+C south, longitude MK deg# 2I' MKC east# 49APT/) V6# Parole gi"en# :ourney into the interior o! Mauritius# The go"ernor's country seat# )esidence at the )e!uge, in that Part o! Gilhems Plains called Vacouas# 6ts situation and climate, with the mountains, ri"ers, cascades, and "iews near it# The Mare auB Vacouas and Grand Bassin# 5tate o! culti"ation and %roduce o! VacouasD its blac ebony, game, and wild !ruitsD and !reedom !rom noBious insects# .AT MA;)6T6;5# P8)T '8;65#3 A;G;5T 1E,M My !irst "isit a!ter being liberated !rom the Garden Prison, was to ca%tain Bergeret, whose inter%osition 6 considered to ha"e been the %rinci%al cause o! this !a"ourable changeD he obligingly o!!ered me the

accommodation o! his lodging whilst in town, but M# Pitot had %re"iously engaged my residence with him# <eBt morning 6 accom%anied ca%tain Bergeret to the town major's o!!ice !or the %ur%ose o! gi"ing my %arole, which colonel Monistrol %ro%osed to ta e "erballyD but to a"oid all !uture misunderstanding, 6 desired that it might be ta en in writing, and two days a!terward it was made out as !ollows# 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general *e 4aen ha"ing gi"en me %ermission to reside at Gilhems Plains, at the habitation o! Madame *'Ari!at, 6 do hereby %romise, u%on my %arole o! honour, not to go more than the distance o! two leagues !rom the said habitation, without 9is /Bcellency's %ermissionD and to conduct mysel! with that %ro%er degree o! reser"e, becoming an o!!icer residing in a country with which his nation is at war# 6 will also answer !or the %ro%er conduct o! my two ser"ants# Town o! Port <orth&west, Matthew Flinders# August 22, 1E,M The habitation, !or so %lantations are here called, which was to be my residence, belonged to a res%ectable widow with a large !amilyD and was re%resented to be !i"e French leagues, or twel"e miles !rom the town, in a 5# 5# G# direction# The %ermission to range two leagues all round 6 considered to be an a%%roach towards liberalityD and a %roo! that, i! general *e 4aen had e"er really belie"ed me to be a s%y, he had ceased to thin soD it was not indeed consistent with the reason alleged !or my im%risonment, to grant a %arole at all, but this it was no %art o! my business to %oint out# 8n the other hand, by signing this %arole 6 cut mysel! o!! !rom the %ossibility o! an esca%eD but it seemed incredible, a!ter the "arious letters written and re%resentations made both in /ngland and France, that a !a"ourable order should not arri"e in siB or eight months# 6 moreo"er entertained some ho%es o! Mauritius being attac ed, !or it was not to be imagined that either the /ast&6ndia com%any or the go"ernment should @uietly submit to such losses as it caused to British commerceD and i! attac ed with judgment, it a%%eared to me that a moderate !orce would carry itD u%on this subject, howe"er, an absolute silence was %reser"ed in my letters, !or although the %ass%ort had been so "iolated by general *e 4aen, 6 was determined to adhere to it strictly# *uring !our days stay in the to town o! Port 'ouis no restriction o! any ind was im%osedD 6 "isited the theatre, and se"eral !amilies to whom my !riends Pitot and Bergeret introduced me, and %assed the time as %leasantly as any one who s%o e no French could do in such a situation# A young /nglishman, who under the name o! an American eB%ected to sail immediately !or /uro%e, too charge o! a boB containing letters and %a%ers !or the Admiralty and %resident o! the )oyal 5ociety, one o! which was u%on the e!!ect %roduced on the marine barometer by sea and land windsD7 and on the 2-th in the a!ternoon 6 set o!! with M# Pitot's !amily !or their country house, which was !our miles on the way to my intended residence# .7 This %a%er a%%eared in the 5ociety's Transactions o! 1E,+, Part 66#3 .AT MA;)6T6;5# G6'9/M5 P'A6<5#3 8n the !ollowing day we "isited the country seat o! the go"ernor, called the A)eduitA, about se"en miles !rom the town, and at the edge o! my limit o! two leagues !rom the habitation at Gilhems Plains# 6t stands

u%on an ele"ated %oint o! land between the )i"iere de Mocha, which comes !rom the east, and an e@ually large stream which collects the waters o! Gilhems Plains !rom the southwardD their junction at this %lace !orms the Grande )i"iere, and the )eduit commands a "iew o! its windings in the low land to the north, until it is discharged into the sea about a mile on the west side o! Port 'ouis# There was little water in the two ri"ers at this timeD but the eBtraordinary de%th o! their channels, which seemed to be not less than a hundred !eet, and to ha"e been cut through the solid roc , bes%o e that the current must be immense during the hurricanes and hea"y summer rainsD and the "iews which the di!!erent !alls o! water amongst the o"erhanging woods will then %resent, cannot be otherwise than highly %ictures@ue# At the )eduit the sides o! these ra"ines were %lanted with the wa"ing bamboo, and the road leading u% to the house, with the gardens around it, were shaded by the mango and "arious other !ruit treesD but all was in great disorder, ha"ing su!!ered more than neglect during the turbulent %eriod o! the French re"olution# The house was said to be ca%able o! containing thirty&!i"e beds, and was at this time in a state o! %re%aration !or general *e 4aenD and when com%leted, and the gardens, alleys, !ish %onds, and roads %ut into order, it would be an elegant residence !or the go"ernor o! the island# 8ur ins%ection was con!ined to the gardens and %ros%ects, !rom the house being shut u%D we a!terwards made a rural dinner under the shade o! a banian tree, and my !riend Pitot, with M# Bayard, a judge in the court o! a%%eal, then se%arated !rom their !amilies to conduct me onward to my asylum# 6nstead o! ta ing the direct road, they %ursued a winding route more to the eastward, to %ay a "isit to M# Plumet, a !riend o! the judgeD and we reached his habitation not much be!ore sunset, though still !our or !i"e miles short o! our destination# Thus !ar 6 !ound the country to be stony and not "ery !ertile, the roads bad and irregular, with se"eral %laces in them which must be im%racticable in the hea"y rainsD here and there, howe"er, we were grati!ied with the "iew o! country houses, surrounded with !ruit trees and well watered gardensD and once turned out o! the road to see a water !all made by a considerable stream down a %reci%ice o! at least a hundred !eet# The culti"ated !ields seemed to be generally %lanted either with sugar cane, maiJe, or manioc, but we were o!ten in the shade o! the %rimiti"e woods# M# Plumet had %assed many years in 6ndia, in the ser"ice o! 5cindeah, the Mahratta chie!, and s%o e some /nglishD he recei"ed us so indly that we remained with him until the !ollowing a!ternoon, and his habitation being within my limits, he in"ited me to "isit him a!terwards# From the time o! @uitting the %ort we had been continually ascendingD so that here the ele"ation was %robably not less than a thousand !eet, and the climate and %roductions were much altered# 4o!!ee seemed to be a great object o! attention, and there were some rising %lantations o! clo"e treesD 6 !ound also strawberries, and e"en a !ew young oa s o! tolerable growth# A "ast ad"antage, as well as ornament in this and many other %arts o! the island, is the abundance o! ne"er !ailing streamsD by which the gardens are embellished with cascades and !ish %onds, and their !ruit trees and "egetables watered at little eB%ense# Fuitting M# Plumet in the a!ternoon o! the 2+th, we rode in intricate %aths and crossed "arious %lantations to get into the direct road# 6n these, besides sugar cane, co!!ee, maiJe, and manioc, some !ields were totally co"ered with a cree%ing %lant bearing a heart&sha%ed lea!D this was the A%atateA, or sweet %otatoe, a root o! great utility to the nourishment o! the sla"esD and in the higher %arts o! the island, where it succeeds best, is a !a"ourite object o! culti"ation, being little

subject to injury !rom the hurricanes# As we ad"anced the streams became smaller and more numerous, and the uncleared woods more eBtensi"eD the country was still %artly co"ered with large stonesD but 6 remar ed with some sur%rise, that the %roductions o! the stony land were generally the most "igorous# <either o! my conductors were ac@uainted with the %lace o! my retreatD they in@uired o! e"ery blac man on the road, as to the right %ath and the distance that yet remainedD but o!ten could get no answer&&sometimes it was three&@uarters, and sometimes two leaguesD at length we !ound oursel"es surrounded on all sides by wood, the road had diminished to a !oot %ath, it was dar , and began to rain# 6t was then judged necessary to turn bac and ma e !or a light near the road, to obtain a guideD and it seemed odd that the %erson a%%lied to should answer in /nglish, that the %lantation o! Madame *'Ari!at was just bye# 9e %ro"ed to be an 6rishman named *ruse, who had been settled more than twenty years in this distant island as a car%enterD he had nown that an /nglish o!!icer was coming to reside here, and undertoo to be our guide, seeming to be not a little %leased at again using his nati"e language# A blac man who had charge o! the %lantation in the absence o! the %ro%rietor, had recei"ed orders to accommodate usD but not !inding my ser"ant and lame seaman who should ha"e arri"ed the day be!ore, we wal ed hal! a league to the habitation o! M# de 4haJal, a !riend o! M# Pitot who had the goodness to send out my baggage# <eBt morning we returned, and my abode was !iBed in one o! two little %a"ilions detached !rom the house, the other being a%%ro%riated to my two menD and M# Pitot ha"ing brought me ac@uainted with a !amily resident on an adjoining %lantation, and made some in@uiries and arrangements as to su%%lies o! %ro"isions, he and his com%anion M# Bayard then returned to the town# 5/PT/MB/) 1E,M My attention !or the !irst se"eral wee s was %rinci%ally directed to ac@uiring a nowledge o! the surrounding country, its natural curiosities and romantic "iewsD and as these are well worth notice, a descri%tion o! the most remar able objects, with an account o! the culti"ation and %roduce o! this secluded %art o! Mauritius, may %robably be acce%table to some readers# The district or @uarter called Gilhems Plains, occu%ies a considerable %ortion o! the interior o! the islandD its northern eBtremity borders on the sea by the side o! the district o! Port 'ouis, !rom which it is se%arated by the Grande )i"iereD and it eBtends southward !rom thence, rising gradually in ele"ation and increasing in breadth# The body o! the @uarter is bounded to the <# /# by the district o! Mocha&&to the 5# /# by that o! Port Bourbon or the Grand Port&&to the south by the @uarter o! 'a 5a"anne&&and to the west by the Plains o! 5t# Pierre# 6ts length !rom the sea to the Grand Bassin at its southern eBtremity, is about !i"e geogra%hic leagues in a straight line, and mean breadth nearly two leaguesD whence the su%er!icial eBtent o! this district should not be much less than ninety s@uare miles# 6n the u%%er %art is a la e called the AMare auB VacouasA, a%%arently so named !rom the number o! %andanus trees, called "acouas, on its bordersD and that %art o! Gilhems Plains by which the la e is surrounded, at the distance o! a league, more or less, bears the a%%ellation o! VacouasD in this %art my residence was situate, in a country o"ers%read with thic woods, a !ew %lantations eBce%ted, which had been mostly cleared within a !ew years#

6n conse@uence o! the ele"ation o! Vacouas, the climate is as much di!!erent !rom that o! the low %arts o! the island as i! it were se"eral degrees without the tro%icD :une, :uly, and August are the driest months at Port 'ouis, but here they are most rainy, and the thermometer stands !rom K deg# to 12 deg# lower u%on an a"erage throughout the year#7 6n a west direction, across that %art o! the Plains o! 5t# Pierre called 'e Tamarin, the sea is not more distant than siB milesD the descent is there!ore ra%id, and is rendered more so !rom three&!ourths o! the s%ace being !lat, low landD in com%arison with 'e Tamarin, Vacouas is in !act an irregular %lain u%on the to% o! the mountains, to which there is almost no other access than by ma ing a circuit o! !our or !i"e miles round by the lower %art o! Gilhems Plains# Three rugged %ea s called the Trois Mamelles, and another, the Montagne du )em%art, all o! them cons%icuous at sea, are the highest %oints o! a ridge somewhat ele"ated abo"e this irregular %lain, and bounding it to the westwardD and the road !orming the ordinary communication between the high and low land %asses round them# My retreat, which "ery a%%ro%riately to the circumstances o! my situation bore the name o! AThe )e!ugeA, lay two or three miles to the south&east o! the Trois Mamelles# .7 The mean height o! the thermometer in :uly 1E,M, which is the middle o! winter, was +K1L- deg#, and o! the barometer in French inches and lines, 2+#K2L-D and during February 1E,+, the middle o! summer# K+ deg# and 2+#M2L- were the mean heights# At M# Pitot's house in the town o! Port 'ouis, the a"erages in the same February were E+ deg# and 2K#K2L-# According to *e 'uc, the di!!erence between the logarithms o! the two heights o! the barometer eB%resses "ery nearly the di!!erence o! ele"ation in thousand toises, when the thermometer stands at K, deg# in both %lacesD and there!ore the a%%roBimate ele"ation o! Vacouas abo"e M# Pitot's house, should be 1EK1L- toises, or in French !eet, 1122 4orrection !or eBcess o! thermometers abo"e K, deg#, Q 2M 5u%%osed ele"ation o! M# Pitot's house abo"e the sea, Q -, &&&& /le"ation o! Vacouas in French !eet, 11EE

The /nglish !oot being to the French, as 12 is to 12#E1+, the height o! Vacouas abo"e the le"el o! the sea should be nearly 12+I /nglish !eet#3 The %rinci%al ri"ers in the neighbourhood are the )# du Tamarin and the )# du )em%art, each branching into two %rinci%al armsD these collect all the smaller streams in this %ortion o! the island, and arri"ing by di!!erent routes at the same %oint, ma e their junction at the head o! the Baye du Tamarin, where their waters are discharged into the sea# 6n wet weather these ri"ers run with great !orce, but in ordinary times they do not contain much waterD and their smaller branches are mostly dried u% in 8ctober and <o"ember# Both arms o! the )# du )em%art ta e their rise between one and two miles to the 5# by /# o! the )e!uge, and within hal! a mile o! the Mare auB Vacouas, !rom which it is thought their sources are deri"edD the western arm bears the name o! )# des Pa%ayas, %robably !rom the number o! those trees !ound on its ban sD7 and ta ing its course northward, is the boundary between two series o! %lantations, until it joins the other branch at the !oot o! the Montagne du )em%art and its name is lost# The )e!uge was one o! these %lantations bounded by the )# des Pa%ayes, being situate on its eastern ban , and recei"ing !rom it an accession o! "alueD !or this arm does not dry u% in the most un!a"ourable

seasons, neither does it o"er!low in the hurricanes# .7 The %a%aye, %a%aya, or %a%aw, is a tree well nown in the /ast and Gest 6ndies, and is common in MauritiusD the acrid mil o! the green !ruit, when so!tened with an e@ual @uantity o! honey, is considered to be the best remedy against worms, with which the negroes and young children, who li"e mostly on "egetable diet, are much troubled#3 The eastern arm bears the name o! )# du )em%art throughout, !rom its source near the AmareA or la e to its embouchure# 6ts course is nearly %arallel to that o! the sister stream, the distance between them "arying only !rom about hal! a mile to one hundred and twenty yardsD and the )e!uge, as also the greater number o! %lantations on the eastern, or right ban o! the )# des Pa%ayes, is di"ided by it into two une@ual %arts, and bridges are necessary to ee% u% a communication between them# Although the source o! this arm be ne"er dried u%, yet much o! its water is lost in the %assageD and during !i"e or siB months o! the year that nothing is recei"ed !rom the small branches, greater or less %ortions o! its bed are le!t dryD there seems, howe"er, to be s%rings in the bed, !or at a distance !rom where the water disa%%ears a stream is !ound running lower down, which is also lost and another a%%ears !urther on# 6n the summer rains, more es%ecially in the hurricanes, the )# du )em%art recei"es numberless re&en!orcements, and its torrent then becomes im%etuous, carrying away the bridges, loose roc s, and e"ery mo"eable obstructionD its %artial inundations do great damage to the co!!ee trees, which cannot bear the water, and in washing o!! the best o! the "egetable soil# *uring these times, the communication between those %arts o! the %lantations on di!!erent sides o! the ri"er is cut o!!, until the waters ha"e in %art subsidedD and this occurred thrice in one year and a hal!# At the western end o! the Mare auB Vacouas is an outlet through which a constant stream !lows, and this is the commencement o! the %rinci%al branch o! the )# du TamarinD the other branch, called the )# des Aigrettes, is said to ta e its rise near a more distant la e, named the Grand BassinD and their junction is made about one mile to the 5# 5# G# o! the )e!uge, near the boundary ridge o! the high land, through which they ha"e made a dee% cut, and !ormed a "alley o! a "ery romantic character# A short distance abo"e their junction, each branch ta es a lea% downward o! about se"enty !eetD and when united, they do not run abo"e a @uarter o! a mile northward be!ore they descend with redoubled !orce a %reci%ice o! nearly one hundred and twenty !eetD there are then one or two small cascades, and in a short distance another o! eighty or a hundred !eetD and !rom thence to the bottom o! the "alley, the descent is made by smaller cascades and numberless ra%ids# A!ter the united stream has run about hal! a mile northward, and in that s%ace descended near a thousand !eet !rom the le"el o! Vacouas, the ri"er turns westD and %assing through the dee% cut or chasm in the boundary ridge, enters the %lain o! 'e Tamarin and winds in a ser%entine course to the sea# The )# du Tamarin is at no time a tri!ling stream, and in rainy weather the @uantity o! water thrown down the cascades is considerableD by a calculation !rom the estimated width, de%th, and rate o! the current a!ter a hurricane, the water then %reci%itated was 1M,, tons in a minute# There are some %oints on the high land whence most o! the cascades may be seen at one "iew, about a mile distantD !rom a nearer %oint some o! them are %ercei"ed to the le!t, the Trois Mamelles tower o"er the woods to the right, and almost %er%endicularly under !oot is the im%etuous stream o! the ri"er, dri"ing its way amongst the roc s and woods at the bottom o! the "alley# 6n !ront is the stee% ga%, through which the ri"er rushes to

the low land o! 'e TamarinD and there the eye @uits it to sur"ey the sugar %lantations, the alleys o! tamarinds and mangoes, the "illages o! huts, and all the %arty&coloured "egetation with which that district is adornedD but soon it %asses on to the Baye du Tamarin, to the brea ers on the coral ree!s which s irt the shore, and to the sea eB%anded out to a "ery distant horiJon# An ele"ation o! ten or ele"en hundred !eet, and the distance o! three or !our miles which a s%ectator is %laced !rom the %lantations, gi"es a %art o! this "iew all the so!tness o! a well&!inished drawingD and when the sun sets in !ront o! the ga%, and "essels are seen %assing be!ore it along the coast, nothing seems wanting to com%lete this charming and romantic %ros%ect# Amongst the natural curiosities o! Mauritius may be rec oned the AMare auB VacouasA, situate about two miles 5# by /# o! the )e!uge# 6t is an irregular %iece o! !resh water o! about one mile in length, surrounded with many hundred acres o! swam%y land, through which run !our or !i"e little streams !rom the bac hillsD in some %laces it is !rom 2, to 2M !athoms dee%, as re%orted, and is well stoc ed with eels, %rawns and a small red !ish called Adame&cereA, originally brought !rom 4hina# The eels and %rawns are indigenous, and reach to a large siJeD the latter are sometimes !ound o! siB inches long without the beard, and the eels commonly o!!ered !or sale ran !rom siB to twenty, and some were said to attain the enormous weight o! eighty %ounds# This !ish is delicate eating, and the largest are accounted the bestD its !orm has more a!!inity to the conger than to our !resh&water eel, and much resembles, i! it be not eBactly the same s%ecies caught in the small streams o! <or!ol 6sland in the Paci!ic 8cean# Ghence it is that !resh&water !ish should be !ound on small islands, !re@uently at se"eral hundred leagues !rom other land, will %robably long remain one o! the secrets o! natureD i! it were granted that they might come by sea, the di!!iculty would scarcely be less to now how they should ha"e mounted %reci%ices o! many hundred !eet, to reach la es at the to%s o! mountains where they are not uncommonly seen# Fi"e or siB miles to the south o! the )e!uge lies another la e o! !resh water, called the AGrand BassinAD its situation is more ele"ated than Vacouas, and eBce%t the ridges and to%s o! mountains, it seemed to be in the highest %art o! the island# This basin is nearly hal! a mile in diameter, o! a !orm not !ar !rom circular, and is certainly dee%D but that it should be E- !athoms as was said, is scarcely credible# The ban s are roc y, and a%%ear li e a mound thrown u% to ee% the water !rom o"er!lowingD and the surrounding land, %articularly to the south, being lower than the sur!ace o! the water, gi"es the Grand Bassin an a%%earance o! a cauldron three&@uarters !ull# <o %erce%tible stream runs into it, but se"eral go out, draining through hollow %arts o! the roc y ban , and !orming the commencement o! so many ri"ersD the )i"ieres des Anguilles, *ragon, and du Poste !all into the sea on the south or south&east %arts o! the islandD the )# des Aigrettes be!ore mentioned, and the )# <oire which runs westward, rise not !ar o!!, but their asserted subterraneous communication with the basin is doubt!ul# <o great di!!erence ta es %lace in the le"el o! the water eBce%t a!ter hea"y rainsD when the su%%ly, which must %rinci%ally come !rom s%rings in the bottom, so !ar eBceeds the @uantity thrown out, as to raise it sometimes as much as siB !eet# 8n the western ban is a %ea ed hill, !rom which the Grand Bassin is not only seen to much ad"antage, but the "iew eBtends o"er great %art o! Mauritius, and in se"eral %laces to the horiJon o! the sea# 6t was a%%arent !rom hence, that between the mountains behind Port 'ouis and those o! 'a 5a"anne to the south, and !rom the )# <oire eastward to Port

Bourbon, not one&hal!, %robably not a third %art o! the %rimiti"e woods were cut downD and this s%ace com%rehends three&!i!ths o! the island, but eBcludes great %art o! the shores, near which the %lantations are most numerous# The ele"ated ban round the Grand Bassin consists %artly o! stones thrown loosely togetherD though %orous, the stone is hea"y and hard, o! a dar grey colour, and contains numerous s%ec s o! what seemed to be !eldts%ath, with sometimes %articles o! mica and oli"ineD it is more or less !erruginous, gi"es a bell&li e sound when struc , and in some %arts a%%eared to ha"e run in the manner o! la"a# From this descri%tion, and the circular !orm and ele"ated %osition o! this basin, the geologist will %robably be induced to thin it the crater o! an ancient "olcanoD and since there are other large holes nearly similar to it, and many ca"erns and streams under ground in other %arts, it may %erha%s be concluded that i! the island do not owe its origin to subterraneous !ire, it has yet been subject to "olcanic eru%tions, and that the Grand Bassin was one o! the "ents# 5uch were the ri"ers, la es, and "iews which most eBcited my eBcursions to the north, the west, and south o! the )e!uge# To the east at a league distance, there was, according to my in!ormation, a la e called the Mare auB :oncs, !rom whence rises the )# du MenilD and ta ing its course northward, joins the )# de Gilhems and at length !alls into the Grande )i"iere# At a !urther distance se"eral other streams were said to rise, some running northward to the same destination as the abo"e, and others south&eastward towards Port BourbonD but ha"ing ne"er "isited this %art o! my limits, 6 can s%ea o! it only !rom re%ort, corroborated by a "iew o! the chart# The country was re%resented as less inhabited than Vacouas, owing to the want o! roads and conse@uent di!!iculty o! con"eyance to the town, u%on which the "alue o! land "ery much de%ends( an uncleared AhabitationA7 near the Mare auB :oncs was sold !or M,, dollars, whilst the same @uantity o! land at Vacouas was worth siB times that sum# .7 The original concessions o! land in Mauritius were usually o! 1M+1L2 Aar%entsA, o! -,,,,, French s@uare !eet each, ma ing about 1+,1L2 acres /nglishD this is called Aun terrein d'habitationA, and in abridgment a AhabitationA, although no house should be built, nor a tree cut downD by corru%tion howe"er, the word is also used !or any !arm or %lantation, though o! much smaller eBtent#3 ;%on the high land near the Grand Bassin and in some other central %arts o! Mauritius, a day seldom %asses throughout the year without rainD e"en at Vacouas it !alls more or less during siB or eight months, whilst in the low lands there is "ery little eBce%t !rom *ecember to March# This moisture creates an abundance o! "egetation, and should ha"e rendered the middle %arts o! the island eBtremely !ertileD as they would be i! the soil were not washed down to the low lands and into the sea, almost as soon as !ormed# 'arge timber, whose roots are not seen on the sur!ace, and a blac soil, are here the eBterior mar s o! !ertilityD but near the Grand Bassin the trees are small, though thic ly set, and the roots, unable to %enetrate below, s%read along the ground# The little soil which has accumulated seemed to be good, and it will increase, though slowlyD !or the decayed wood adds something to its @uantity e"ery year, whilst the trun s and roots o! the trees sa"e a %art !rom being washed away# Both these ad"antages are lost in the cleared lands o! Vacouas, which besides are made to %roduce !rom two to !our cro%s e"ery yearD the soil is there!ore soon eBhausted, and manuring is scarcely nown# A %lantation co"ered with loose roc s is !ound to retain its !ertility longestD

a%%arently !rom the stones %reser"ing the "egetable earth against the hea"y rains, as the roots o! the trees did be!ore the ground was cleared# Much o! the lower %art o! Gilhems Plains has been long cleared and occu%ied, and this is one o! the most agreeable %ortions o! the islandD but Vacouas is in its in!ancy o! culti"ation, three&!ourths o! it being still co"ered with wood# This neglect it owes to the coldness and moisture o! the climate rendering it un!it !or the %roduce o! sugar and cotton, to its being remote !rom the sea side, and more than all to its distance !rom the town o! Port 'ouis, the great mart !or all inds o! %roductions# Mauritius is not laid out li e the counties in /ngland and other %arts o! /uro%e, with a city or mar et town at e"ery ten or twenty milesD nor yet li e the neighbouring isle Bourbon, where there are two or three towns and some "illagesD it has but one town, which is the seat o! go"ernment and commerce !or both islands# 6n other %arts the %lantations are scattered irregularlyD and although hal! a doJen houses may sometimes be !ound near together, !amilies within a mile o! each other are considered as neBt door neighbours# There being !ew tradesmen eBce%t in the town, the more considerable %lanters ha"e blac smiths, car%enters, and one or more taylors and shoema ers amongst their sla"es, with !orges and wor sho%s on their %lantationsD but e"ery thing they ha"e occasion to buy, e"en the bread !or daily consum%tion, is generally brought !rom Port 'ouis# The %roduce o! the di!!erent districts in Mauritius "aries according to the ele"ation and climate o! eachD and the tem%erature o! Vacouas being better suited to /uro%ean "egetables, the daily su%%ly o! the baJar or mar et with them, is a great object to the inhabitants# 8wing to the bad roads and eBcessi"e %rice o! beasts o! burthen, the manner uni"ersally ado%ted o! sending these su%%lies is u%on the heads o! sla"esD and the distance being twel"e hea"y miles, this em%loyment occu%ies nearly the whole time o! two or more strong negroes, besides that o! a trusty man in the town to ma e the necessary %urchases and sales# The distance o! a %lantation !rom Port 'ouis there!ore causes a material increase o! eB%ense and incon"enience !or this object alone, and is one reason why Vacouas is less culti"ated than many other districtsD in %ro%ortion, howe"er, as timber becomes more scarce in the neighbourhood o! the town, the woods o! Vacouas will rise in "alue and %resent a greater inducement to clear the lands# Timber and %lan s !or shi%s, and also !or building houses, with shingles to co"er them, were !ast increasing in demandD and the !re@uent %resence o! /nglish cruisers, which %re"ented su%%lies being sent !rom 'a 5a"anne and other woody %arts o! the sea coast, tended %ower!ully to throw this lucrati"e branch o! internal commerce more into the hands o! the landholders at Vacouas, and to clear the district o! its su%er!luous woods# Besides "arious inds o! eBcellent timber !or building, these woods contain the blac ebony, the heart o! which is sold by weight# The tree is tall and slender, ha"ing but !ew branches which are near the to%D its eBterior bar is blac ish, the !oliage thic , and the lea!, o! a dar green abo"e and %ale below, is smooth, not "ery %ointed, and larger than those o! most !orest trees# 6t %roduces clusters o! an oblong !ruit, o! the siJe o! a %lum, and !ull o! a "iscous, sweetish juice, rather agreeable to the taste# The ordinary circum!erence o! a good tree is three or !our !eetD when cut down, the head lo%%ed o!! and eBterior white wood chi%%ed away, a blac log remains o! about siB inches in diameter, and !rom twel"e to !i!teen !eet in length, the weight o! which is something abo"e 2,, %ounds# 6n 1E,+ se"eral inhabitants %ermitted a contractor to cut down their ebony, on condition o! recei"ing hal! a

5%anish dollar !or each hundred %ounds o! the blac woodD others cut it down themsel"es, trimmed and %iled the logs together, and sold them on the s%ot !or one dollar the hundredD but those who %ossessed means o! trans%orting the wood to town, obtained !rom 11L2 to 21L2 dollars, the %rice de%ending u%on the su%%ly, and the number o! American "essels in %ort, bound to 4hina, whither it was %rinci%ally carried# Many o! the %lantations in Vacouas were thus eBhausted o! their ebonyD and the tree is o! so slow a growth, that the occu%iers could eB%ect a!terwards to cut those only which, being too small, they had be!ore s%aredD these were "ery !ew, !or the object o! the %lanter being generally to realiJe a sum which should enable him to return to /uro%e, the !uture was mostly sacri!iced to %resent con"enience# 5uch cleared %arts o! Vacouas as are not %lanted with maiJe, manioc, or sweet %otatoes !or the su%%ort o! the sla"es, or with "egetables and !ruits !or the baJar, are commonly laid out in co!!ee %lantations, which were becoming more an object o! attention, as they ha"e long been at BourbonD the great demand made !or co!!ee by the Americans, and its conse@uent high %rice, had caused this object o! commerce to !lourish in both islands, notwithstanding the war# 6ndigo and the clo"e tree were also obtaining a !ooting at VacouasD but the eBtensi"e %lantations o! sugar cane and cotton shrubs !ound in the low %arts o! the island, a%%eared not to ha"e been attem%ted, and it is certain that the cotton would not succeed# The %ortions o! each habitation allotted to di!!erent objects o! culture, are usually se%arated by a double row o! some tree or shrub, either use!ul or ornamental, with a road or %ath running between the lines# Amongst the use!ul is the "acoua or %andanusD whose lea"es being strongly !ibrous, long, s%reading, and armed with %ric les, both !orm a tolerable !ence and su%%ly a good material !or ma ing sac s, bags, etc# 6t is only whilst young that the "acoua answers this double %ur%oseD but the tree is twel"e or !i!teen years be!ore it arri"es at maturity, and the lea"es may be annually cut( no other use is made o! the !ruit than to %lant it !or the %roduction o! other trees# A double row o! the tall jamb&rosa, or rose a%%le, ma es the %rinci%al di"isions in some %lantations, !orming agreeable, shady wal sD and !rom the shelter it a!!ords is %re!erred !or surrounding the co!!ee trees, which re@uire the utmost care to %rotect them !rom hurricanes# A tree once "iolently sha en, dies !i"e or siB months a!terward, as it does i! water stand se"eral days together round its !ootD slo%ing situations, where the water may run o!!, are there!ore %re!erred !or it, and i! roc y they are the more ad"antageous, !rom the !irmness which the roots thereby ac@uire to resist the hurricanes# )ows o! the banana, o! which the island %ossesses a great "ariety o! s%ecies, are also %lanted by the sides o! the %aths leading through the habitations, sometimes behind the "acoua, but o!ten aloneD the %ine a%%le ser"es the same %ur%ose in others, as do the %each and other !ruit trees where the %aths are more considerable# A long and strong grass, called A"itti&"ertA, is occasionally %re!erred !or the lines o! di"isionD this is cut twice or thrice in the year to be used as thatch, !or which it is well ada%ted# 9edges o! the e"er&!lowering 4hina rose, and o! the AnetshoulyA, a bushy shrub !rom 6ndia which %ros%ers in e"ery soil, are o!ten used in %lace o! the tall jamb&rosa to !orm alleys leading u% to the house o! the %lanter, and also the %rinci%al wal s in his gardenD the wa"ing bamboo, whose numberless uses are well nown, is %lanted by the sides o! the ri"ers and canals# A notion o! the wor ing and %roduce o! a %lantation at Vacouas will be most concisely gi"en by a statement o! the ordinary eB%enses and returnsD

and to render it more nearly a%%licable to the case o! such %ersons in /uro%e as might !orm the %roject o! becoming settlers, 6 will su%%ose a young man, with his wi!e and child, arri"ed at Mauritius with the intention o! em%loying his time and means on a %lantation in this districtD and at the end o! !i"e years other a!!airs call him thence, and he sells e"ery thing# 9e is su%%osed to %ossess 1E,,,, dollars in money or %ro%erty, to be acti"e, industrious, and !rugal, and though unac@uainted with the business o! a %lanter, to be su!!iciently intelligent to gain the necessary in!ormation in one year# Gith these re@uisites, 6 would eBamine whether he will ha"e been able to subsist his !amily com!ortably during the !i"e years, and what will then be the state o! his !unds# /HP/<5/5# *ollars#

6n town the !irst year, 1,E,, Price o! an uncleared habitation, 2,,,, Twenty negroes, some being mechanics, -,,,, Ten negresses, 1,M,, Ten children o! di!!erent ages, 1,,,, MaiJe M,, lbs# >K1L2 *#?, sweet %otatoes 12M, lbs# >22L- *#? to subsist each sla"e the !irst year, -M, 9ead taB !or M years, at #1 *# each %er an# 1,, Maroon taB !or ditto 1,, 5urgeon to attend the sla"es, 2,, Building and !urnishing a house, magaJine, etc#, eBclusi"e o! wood and labourers !rom the %lantation, 2,M,, Agricultural utensils, hand mills, etc# 2,, 1,, !owls and M, duc s !or a breed, 1,, Ten goats, +, Ten %igs, 1,, A horse, saddle, etc# 2M, A good ass, side saddle, etc# 12, 5eeds and !ruit trees, M, 4o!!ee %lants 2,,,,, !or 2, acres, -M, /B%enses at the %lantation in - years, eBclusi"e o! domestic su%%lies, 2,+,, 'osses !rom two hurricanes, 2,,,, &&&&&& Total 21,+E, )/4/6PT5# *ollars# 8! +, acres cleared to raise %ro"isions, 2, are necessary to su%%ort the sla"esD !rom the rest may be sold 1M,,,,, lbs# o! maiJe in - years, !or 2,2M, /bony, timber, %lan s and shingles, sold on the s%ot during M years, 2,,,, 4o!!ee rea%ed on the Mth year, M, bales >1,, lbs# each? at 1M *# %er bale, KM, Vegetables and !ruit sold at the baJar, a"er age 2 *# %er day, during !our years, 2,I2, Fowls and duc s 2,,, at 1L2 *# 1,,,, Thirty goats sold, 1E, Thirty hogs, +,,

At the end o! M years, the %lantation, buildings, etc#, will %robably bring, K,,,, Probable "alue o! the sla"es, M,M,, Pigs, goats, and %oultry remaining, 2+, 9orse, ass, etc# %robably not more than 2,, &&&&&& Ghole recei%ts 22,++, /B%enses and losses 21,+E, &&&&&& 6ncrease 1,IE, The taBes and %rice o! %ro"isions, co!!ee, etc# in the abo"e calculation, are ta en as they usually stood in time o! war, under the go"ernment o! general *e 4aenD and e"ery thing is ta en against, rather than in !a"our o! the %lanter# 6n his eB%enses a su!!iciency is allowed to li"e com!ortably, to see his !riends at times, and something !or the %leasure o! himsel! and wi!eD but i! he choose to be "ery economical, 2,,, dollars might be sa"ed !rom the sums allotted# 6n selling his %lantation at the end o! !i"e years, he is in a great measure losing the !ruit o! his labourD !or the co!!ee alone might be reasonably eB%ected to %roduce annually one hundred bales !or the !ollowing ten years, and ma e his re"enue eBceed 2,,, dollars %er annumD and i! he continued to li"e economically u%on the %lantation, this, with the rising interest o! his sur%lus money, would double his %ro%erty in a short time# 6t is there!ore better, su%%osing a man to %ossess the re@uisite nowledge, to %urchase a habitation already established, than to commence u%on a new one# The same %erson going to Vaucouas with the intention o! @uitting it at the end o! !i"e years, would not %lant co!!ee, but turn his attention to %ro"iding di!!erent inds o! wood and sending it to Port 'ouis# Gith this object %rinci%ally in "iew, he would %urchase two habitations instead o! oneD and as this and other eB%enses incident to the new arrangement would re@uire a greater sum than he is su%%osed to %ossess, he must borrow, at high interest, what is necessary to ma e u% the de!iciency# The amount o! his recei%ts and eB%enses !or the !i"e years# would then be nearly as !ollows# /HP/<5/5# *ollars#

As be!ore, deducting co!!ee %lants, 21,22, An additional habitation, 2,,,, Twenty asses, at I, *# each, 1,E,, 9arnesses !or three teams, 2,, Three waggons built on the %lantation, 1M, Three additional sla"es, +,, 6nterest o! +,,,, dollars borrowed !or three years, at 1E %er cent# %er an# 2,2-, &&&&&& Total 2,,22, Total recei%ts -1,I22 &&&&&& 6ncrease 11,+,2 )/4/6PT5# *ollars# As be!ore, deducting wood, co!!ee,

%lantation and buildings, 12,I1, Trimmed ebony sent to the town 2KM, +,,, lbs# at 2 *# %er 1,,, K,M12 Timber sent to Port 'ouis in - years, +-, loads at 2M *# each, 1+,,,, Two habitations stri%%ed o! the best wood may sell !or, with buildings, -,,,, Asses and additional sla"es, 1,M,, &&&&&& Total -1,I22 These statements will gi"e a general idea o! a %lantation at Vacouas, the em%loyments o! the more considerable inhabitants, o! the !ood o! the sla"es, etc#, and will render unnecessary any !urther eB%lanation on these heads# 6t was considered a !air estimate, that a habitation should gi"e yearly 2, %er cent# on the ca%ital em%loyed, a!ter allowance made !or all common lossesD and money %laced on good security obtained !rom I to 1E %er cent# in time o! war, and 12 to 2- in the %receding %eace# 9ad my %lanter %ut his 1E,,,, dollars out at interest, instead o! em%loying them on a %lantation at Vacouas, and been able to obtain 1M %er cent, he would at the end o! !i"e years, a!ter eB%ending 1M, dollars each month in the town o! Port 'ouis, ha"e increased his ca%ital nearly M,,,, dollarsD but it is more than %robable that he would ha"e !allen into the luBury o! the %lace, and ha"e rather diminished than increased his !ortune# The woods o! Vacouas are eBceedingly thic , and so interwo"en with di!!erent inds o! climbing %lants, that it is di!!icult to !orce a %assage throughD and to ta e a ride where no roads ha"e been cut, is as im%ossible as to ta e a !light in the air# /Bce%t morasses and the borders o! la es, 6 did not see a s%ace o! !i"e s@uare yards in these woods, which was co"ered with grass and unencumbered with shrubs or treesD e"en the %aths not much !re@uented, i! not im%assable, are rendered "ery embarrassing by the ras%berries, wild tobacco, and other shrubs with which they are @uic ly o"ergrown# 4leared lands which ha"e ceased to be culti"ated, are usually clothed with a strong, coarse grass, called Achien&dentA, intermiBed with !erns, wild tobacco, and other noBious weeds# 6n the low districts the grass is o! a better ind, and su%%lies the cattle with tolerable !ood during three or !our months that it is young and tender, and !or most o! the year in marshy %lacesD at other times they are %artly !ed with maiJe straw, the re!use o! the sugar mills, and the lea"es and tender branches o! some trees# A !ew short&legged hares and some scattered %artridges are !ound near the s irts o! the %lantations, and !urther in the woods there are some deer and wild hogs# Mon eys are more numerous, and when the maiJe is ri%e they "enture into the %lantations to stealD which obliges the inhabitants to set a watch o"er the !ields in the day, as the maroons and other thie"es do at night# There are some wood %igeons and two s%ecies o! do"es, and the marshy %laces are !re@uented by a !ew water hensD but neither wild geese nor duc s are nown in the island# Game o! all inds was at this time so little abundant in the woods o! Vacouas, that e"en a creole, who is an intre%id hunter and a good shot, and can li"e where an /uro%ean would star"e, could not subsist himsel! and his dogs u%on the %roduce o! the chase# Be!ore the re"olution this was said to ha"e been %ossibleD but in that time o! disorder the citiJen mulattoes %re!erred hunting to wor , and the woods were nearly de%o%ulated o! hares and deer#

8! indigenous !ruits there are none worth notice, !or that %roduced by the ebony scarcely deser"es the nameD a large, but almost tasteless ras%berry is howe"er now !ound e"ery where by the road side, and citrons o! two inds grow in the woods# A small s%ecies o! cabbage tree, called here A%almisteA, is not rare and is much esteemedD the unde"elo%ed lea"es at the head o! the tree, when eaten raw, resemble in taste a walnut, and a cauli!lower when boiledD dressed as a salad they are su%erior to %erha%s any other, and ma e an eBcellent %ic le# ;%on the deserted %lantations, %eaches, gua"as, %ine a%%les, bananas, mulberries and strawberries are o!ten le!t growingD these are considered to be the %ro%erty o! the !irst comer, and usually !all to the lot o! the maroons, or to the sla"es in the neighbourhood who watch their ri%eningD the wild bees also !urnish them with an occasional regale o! honey# Gith res%ect to noBious insects, the scourge o! most tro%ical countries, the wet and cold weather which renders Vacouas a disagreeable residence in the winter, is o! singular ad"antageD the numerous mus etoes and sand !lies, the swarms o! was%s, the ants, centi%edes, scor%ions, bugs and liJards, with which the lower %arts o! the island are more or less tormented, are almost un nown hereD and !leas and coc roaches are less numerous# A ser%ent is not nown to eBist in Mauritius, though se"eral ha"e been !ound on some o! the neighbouring isletsD it is there!ore not the climate which destroys them, nor has it been ascertained what is the cause#7 .7 Mauritius is not singular in being !ree o! ser%ents whilst they eBist on lands within sight, or not !ar o!!D but a late account says that one o! great siJe has been illed on that island near the )eduit, su%%osed to ha"e esca%ed out o! a shi% !rom 6ndia, wrec ed on the coast a !ew years be!ore#3 From this account o! the situation o! my retreat, it will be %ercei"ed that it was a "ast ac@uisition to eBchange the Garden Prison !or VacouasD there, it had been too warm to ta e eBercise, eBce%t in the mornings and e"enings, had there been room and inducementsD whilst at the )e!uge 6 was obliged to clothe in woollen, had s%ace to range in, and a "ariety o! interesting objects, with the charm o! no"elty to ee% me in continual motion# 6 bathed !re@uently in the )# du )em%art, wal ed out e"ery !ine day, and in a !ew wee s my !ormer health was in a great measure reco"ered# Those who can recei"e grati!ication !rom o%ening the door to an im%risoned bird, and remar ing the joy with which it ho%s !rom s%ray to s%ray, tastes o! e"ery seed and si%s !rom e"ery rill, will readily concei"e the sensations o! a man during the !irst days o! liberation !rom a long con!inement# 49APT/) V66# 8ccu%ations at Vacouas# 9os%itality o! the inhabitants# 'etters !rom /ngland# )e!usal to be sent to France re%eated# Account o! two hurricanes, o! a subterraneous stream and circular %it# 9abitation o! 'a Perouse# 'etters to the French marine minister, <ational 6nstitute, etc# 'etters !rom 5ir /dward Pellew# 4a"erns in the Plains o! 5t# Pierre# Visit to Port 'ouis# <arrati"e transmitted to /ngland#

'etter to ca%tain Bergeret on his de%arture !or France# .AT MA;)6T6;5# G6'9/M5 P'A6<5#3 5/PT/MB/) 1E,M The latter end o! August and beginning o! 5e%tember a%%ertain to the winter in the southern hemis%here, during which it rains !re@uently at VacouasD in the !irst month a!ter my arri"al there were !ew days that continued !ine throughout, and although all o%%ortunities were ta en to ma e eBcursions in the neighbourhood, a considerable %art o! the time was necessarily %assed within doors# 9a"ing sent away my charts and instruments, and most o! the boo s and %a%ers, no object o! my "oyage could be %rosecuted until a !urther su%%ly should be obtained !rom the ca%tain&general *e 4aenD and this being the time, should it e"er arri"e, to which 6 had loo ed !or gaining some nowledge o! the French language, the study o! it was now made a serious em%loyment# Amongst the %rinci%al habitations near the )e!uge, the %ro%rietor o! one only was resident in the countryD and the introduction o! my !riend Pitot ha"ing %roduced an in"itation, 6 %ro!ited by it to s%end there se"eral e"enings, which, besides being %assed agreeably, !acilitated the study to which my attention was directed# There was li"ing in the !amily an unem%loyed commander o! a merchant shi%, M# Murat, who had made the "oyage with /tienne Marchand, the account o! which is so ably written by M# de FleurieuD he was obliging enough to accom%any me in se"eral eBcursions, and amongst them in a wal o! !i"e miles to the house o! M# Giblot, commandant o! the @uarter o! Gilhems Plains, to whom it seemed %ro%er to show mysel! and %ay a "isit o! ceremony# The commandant was unac@uainted with my residence in his district, which was so !ar grati!ying that it showed 6 was not an object o! sus%icion in the eye o! the go"ernment# 84T8B/) 1E,M M# Pitot came to %ass a day with me at the end o! a month, as did ca%tain BergeretD and on the Ith o! 8ctober, the %ro%rietor o! the )e!uge arri"ed with two o! her sons and three daughters, to ta e u% their residence on the %lantation# 8n the !ollowing day 6 recei"ed a %ro%osal !rom Madame *'Ari!at, as liberal as the terms in which it was couched were obliging, to %arta e o! her table with the !amily, which a!ter some necessary sti%ulations, was acce%tedD and in a short time 6 had the ha%%iness to enumerate amongst my !riends one o! the most worthy !amilies in the island# The arri"al o! two other %ro%rietors !rom the town increased the number o! our neighbours, and o! those who sought by their hos%itable indness to ma e my time %ass agreeably# To M# de 4haJal 6 was indebted !or sending out my baggage, and in the se@uel !or many acts o! ci"ility and ser"iceD this gentleman had %assed two years in /ngland, during the tyranny o! )obes%ierre, and conse@uently my want o! nowledge in the French language, at !irst an obstacle to communication with others, was none to rea%ing the ad"antage o! his in!ormation# 8n the 22nd, a %ac et o! letters brought intelligence !rom my !amily and !riends in /ngland, o! whom 6 had not heard !or more than three yearsD Mr# )obertson, my !ormer com%anion in the Garden Prison, had !ound means to !orward it to M# Pitot, by whom it was immediately sent to Vacouas# A letter !rom the %resident o! the )oyal 5ociety in!ormed me that the misunderstanding between the French and British go"ernments was so great, that no communication eBisted between themD but that the %resident

himsel!, ha"ing obtained the a%%robation o! the ministry, had made an a%%lication in my behal! to the <ational 6nstitute, !rom which a !a"ourable answer had been recei"edD and there were strong ho%es that so soon as the em%eror <a%oleon should return !rom 6taly, an order !or my liberation would be obtained# 8ur !rigates, the Pitt and Ter%sichore, came to cruise o!! Mauritius a short time a!terward .<8V/MB/) 1E,M3, !or which 6 was as sorry on one account as any o! the inhabitantsD e"ery wee might %roduce the arri"al o! the eB%ected order, but it would %robably be thrown o"erboard i! the "essel should be chased, or ha"e an engagement with our shi%s# F/B);A)$ 1E,+ Three months thus %assed in !ruitless eB%ectationD at length an aide&de&cam% o! the general arri"ed, and ga"e a s%ur to my ho%esD but a!ter many days o! anBiety to now the result, 6 learned !rom ca%tain Bergeret that the des%atches said nothing u%on my im%risonment# This silence o! the marine minister and the great e"ents rising in /uro%e, admitted little ho%e o! my situation being rememberedD and 6 was thence led to entertain the %roject o! once more re@uesting general *e 4aen to send me to France !or trialD but the brother o! the general and another o!!icer being also eB%ected, it was de!erred at that time# 6n e!!ect, M# *e 4aen arri"ed on the 2Mth, in the !rigate 'a 4anonniere !rom 4herbourg, and eBcited a renewal o! ho%e only to be again disa%%ointedD the news o! "ictories gained by the French o"er the Austrians seemed to occu%y e"ery attention, and threw a dar shade o"er all eB%ectation o! %resent liberty# 6 learned, howe"er, and a %risoner's mind would not !ail to s%eculate thereon, that my detention was well nown in Paris, and thought to be hardD but it was also said, that 6 was considered in the same light as those %ersons who were arrested in France, as hostages !or the "essels and men said to ha"e been sto%%ed by our shi%s be!ore the declaration o! war# MA)49 1E,+ My %ro%osed letter to general *e 4aen was then sentD and a!ter %ointing out the uncertainty o! orders arri"ing, or e"en that the marine minister should !ind time to thin o! a %risoner in a distant island, 6 re%eated !or the third time my re@uest to be sent to FranceD where a s%eedy %unishment would %ut an end to my anBieties, i! !ound cul%able, or in the contrary case, a !ew days would restore me to my country, my !amily, and occu%ations# 4a%tain Bergeret had the goodness to deli"er this letter, and to gi"e it his su%%ortD but it was unsuccess!ul, the "erbal answer being that nothing could be done until the orders o! the go"ernment were recei"ed# To a %ro%osal o! ta ing my %arole to deli"er mysel! u% in France, should the shi% be ta en on the %assage, the general would not listenD though my !riend said he had read the letter with attention, and %romised to re%eat his re@uest to the minister !or orders# A hurricane had desolated the island on the 2,th and 21st o! FebruaryD and on the 1,th o! this month a second came on, causing a re%etition o! mischie! in the %ort and u%on the %lantations# 5e"eral "essels were dri"en on shore or blown out to sea, and more than one lostD the !ruit trees, sugar cane, maiJe, etc# were laid !lat with the earthD the di!!erent streams swelled to an eBtraordinary siJe, carrying away the best o! the "egetable soil !rom the higher habitations, miBed with all inds o! %roduce, branches and trun s o! trees, and the wrec s o! bridges torn awayD and the huts o! the sla"es, magaJines, and some houses were either unroo!ed or blown down# All communication with the %ort was cut

o!! !rom the distant @uarters, and the intercourse between adjoining %lantations rendered di!!icultD yet this chaotic derangement was said to be tri!ling in com%arison with what was su!!ered in the !irst hurricane at Bourbon, where the "essels ha"e no better shelter than o%en roadsteds, and the %lantations o! clo"es, co!!ee and maiJe are so much more eBtensi"e# 5ome American "essels were amongst the su!!erers, but as domestic occurrences were not allowed to be %ublished here, 6 learned only a "ery general account !rom the di!!erent re%orts( ha%%ily !or our cruisers the last had @uitted the island in :anuary# 6n the e"ening o! Feb# 2,, when the !irst hurricane came on, the swi!t&%assing clouds were tinged at sunset with a dee% co%%er colourD but the moon not being near the !ull, it eBcited little a%%rehension at the )e!uge# The wind was !resh, and e%t increasing until ele"en o'cloc , at which time it blew "ery hardD the rain !ell in torrents, accom%anied with loud cla%s o! thunder and lightning, which at e"ery instant im%arted to one o! the dar est nights the brightness o! day# The course o! the wind was !rom south&west to south, south&east, east, and north&east, where it blew hardest between one and three in the morning, gi"ing me an a%%rehension that the house, %a"ilions, and all would be blown away together# At !our o'cloc the wind had got round to north and began to moderate, as did the rain which a!terwards came only in s@uallsD at nine, the rain had nearly ceased, and the wind was no more than a common gale, and a!ter %assing round to <# <# G# it died away# At the time the wind moderated at Mauritius its !ury was most eBerted at Bourbon, which it was said to ha"e attac ed with a degree o! "iolence that any thing less solid than a mountain was scarcely able to resist# The lowest to which the mercury descended in the barometer at Vacouas# was M1L2 lines below the mean le"el o! two days be!ore and two days a!terwardD and this was at daybrea , when the wind and rain were subsiding# 5oon a!ter the "iolence o! the hurricane had abated, 6 went to the cascades o! the )# du Tamarin, to enjoy the magni!icent %ros%ect which the !all o! so considerable a body o! water must a!!ordD the %ath through the wood was strewed with the branches and trun s o! trees, in the !orest the grass and shrubs were so beaten down as to %resent the a%%earance o! an army ha"ing %assed that way, and the ri"er was !ull u% to its ban s# 9a"ing seen the !all in the nearest o! the two arms, 6 descended below their junction, to contem%late the cascade they !ormed when united, down the %reci%ice o! 12, !eetD the noise o! the !all was such that my own "oice was scarcely audible, but a thic mist which rose u% to the clouds !rom the abyss, admitted o! a white !oam only being distinguished# *uring these hurricanes in Mauritius, the wind usually ma es the whole tour o! the com%assD and as during this o! February it made little more than hal!, the a%%rehension o! a second hurricane was entertained, and became "eri!ied about a !ortnight a!terwards# The wind began at /# 5# /# with rainy weather, and continued there twenty&!our hours, with increasing !orceD it then shi!ted @uic ly to north&east, north, north&west, and on the third e"ening was at G# 5# G#, where it gradually subsided# This was not so "iolent as the !irst hurricane, but the rain !ell in torrents, and did great mischie! to the land, besides destroying such remaining %art o! the cro%s as were at all in an ad"anced state( at Bourbon it did not do much injury, the !ormer, it was said, ha"ing le!t little to destroy# The wind had now com%leted the hal! o! the com%ass which it wanted in the !irst hurricaneD and the un!ortunate %lanters were le!t to re%air their losses without !urther dread !or this year( maiJe and manioc, u%on which the sla"es are %rinci%ally !ed, rose two hundred %er cent#

An o%inion commonly entertained in Mauritius, that hurricanes are little to be a%%rehended eBce%t near the time o! !ull moon, does not seem to be well !ounded# 6n 1E,M indeed, there was a hea"y gale on A%ril 1- and 1M, a !ew days a!ter the !ullD but the !irst o! the two hurricanes abo"ementioned too %lace a day or two be!ore the new moon, and the middle o! the second within twenty&!our hours o! the last @uarterD whence it should a%%ear that the hurricanes ha"e no certain conneBion with the state o! this %lanet# :anuary, February, and March are the months which eBcite the most dread, and *ecember and A%ril do not %ass without a%%rehensionD !or se"eral years, howe"er, %re"iously to 1E,M, no hurricane had been eB%eriencedD and the inhabitants began to ho%e, that i! the clearing o! the country caused a dearth o! rain at some times o! the year, it would also deli"er them !rom these dread!ul scourgesD !or it was to the destruction o! the woods that the dryness o! %receding years and the cessation o! hurricanes were generally attributed# 8n the 21st, 9is Majesty's shi% )ussel came o!! the island u%on a cruise, and chased into Port 'ouis 'a Piemontaise, a French !rigate which had sailed !rom /uro%e in *ecember# By this o%%ortunity a con!irmation o! some, and an account o! other "ictories gained o"er the Austrians were recei"ed, as also o! the great na"al action o!! 4a%e Tra!algarD the bulletins o! the !ormer were inserted in the gaJette o! the island, but eBce%t a re%ort !rom the o!!icers o! 'e )edoubtable, not a word o! the na"al actionD amidst such e"ents as these, the mis!ortunes o! an indi"idual must be "ery stri ing to occu%y e"en a thought# 6n a "isit to M# Plumet, and to M# Airolles, the %ro%rietor o! an eBtensi"e %lantation called Menil, in his neighbourhood, 6 had an o%%ortunity o! seeing a ri"ulet, which !or some distance runs under ground# The bed o! this stream resembled a wor o! art, seeming to ha"e been nicely cut out o! the solid roc D and close by the side o! it was a ca"ern, containing layers o! a !erruginous stone li e la"aD their combined a%%earance eBcited an idea that the canal might ha"e been once occu%ied by a "ein o! iron ore, which being melted by subterraneous !ire, !ound an eBit, and le!t a %lace !or the !uture %assage o! the waters# About one mile !rom hence, and in a more ele"ated situation, is a large and dee% hole, o! a !orm nearly a%%roaching to a %er!ect circle, and its u%%er %art occu%ying, according to M# Airolles, the %lace o! se"enteen ar%ents o! landD 6 judged it to be two hundred !eet dee%, and that the loose stones in its bottom !ormed a !lat o! !our or !i"e acres, the angle o! descent being nearly e@ual on all sides# The stones around, and at the bottom o! this "ast %it are more honeycombed than is usual in other %arts, and much resemble those o! the Grand Bassin, o! whose nature they seemed to %arta e in other res%ects# Menil com%rehends a smaller %lantation, !ormerly occu%ied by the un!ortunate 'a Perouse, who was some time an inhabitant o! this island# 6 sur"eyed it with miBed sensations o! %leasure and melancholyD the ruins o! his house, the garden he had laid out, the still blooming hedge&rows o! 4hina roses&&emblems o! his re%utation, e"ery thing was an object o! interest and curiosity# This s%ot is nearly in the centre o! the island, and u%on the road !rom Port 'ouis to Port Bourbon# 6t was here that the man lamented by the good and well in!ormed o! all nations&&whom science illumined, and humanity, joined to an honest ambition, conducted to the haunts o! remote sa"ages&&in this s%ot he once dwelt, %erha%s little nown to the world, but ha%%yD when he became celebrated he had ceased to eBist# M# Airolles %romised me to %lace three s@uare bloc s o! stone, one u%on the other, in the s%ot where the house o! this lamented na"igator

had stoodD and u%on the u%%ermost stone !acing the road, to engra"e, 'A P/)8;5/# AP)6' 1E,+ My lame seaman ha"ing reco"ered !rom the accident o! his bro en leg, colonel Monistrol granted a %ermission !or his de%arture in the beginning o! A%rilD and he was shi%%ed on board the Telema@ue && 4lar , bound to Boston in America# 9is com%anion, the last o! the 4umberland's crew, had the same means o!!ered o! reco"ering his libertyD but he still re!used to lea"e me in Mauritius# 8n the 1Mth 6 sent away two %ac ets o! letters, one !or the Admiralty and my !riends in /ngland, the other to FranceD the last contained a second letter to M# de Fleurieu, and one to the French marine minister gi"ing a short account o! my "oyage and detentionD it inclosed the eBtract !rom ca%tain Baudin >4ha%ter V#, August#?, and re@uested 9is /Bcellency would direct general *e 4aen either to set me at liberty, or send me to France with my boo s and %a%ers !or eBamination# These letters were accom%anied by du%licates o! those written by my !riend Pitot in March 1E,M, to Messieurs *e Bougain"ille, *e la 'ande, 4ha%tal, and *u%uis, and were sent away by two di!!erent con"eyances# The 5ociety o! /mulation, !ormed in Mauritius the %receding year to %romote literary and %hiloso%hical %ursuits, but es%ecially to ad"ance the agriculture, na"igation, and commerce o! the two islands, wrote also to the <ational 6nstitute in my !a"ourD and as its sentiments may be su%%osed analogous to those o! the most enlightened %art o! the inhabitants, 6 "enture to gi"e in the original French a co%y o! that letter in a note, to show what those sentiments were#7 .<ot included in this eboo #3 MA$ 1E,+ 6n May, my !riend Pitot was accom%anied in his monthly "isit by M# Baudin, an o!!icer o! the !rigate last arri"ed !rom France, who had made the "oyage in 'e Geogra%he with his name sa eD and with liberality o! sentiment, %ossessed that ardent s%irit o! enter%rise by which the best na"igators ha"e been distinguished# 9e in!ormed me that M# de Fleurieu was ac@uainted with most o! the circumstances attending my arri"al in this island, and too an interest in my situation, as did many others in ParisD but could not say what might be the o%inion or intentions o! the go"ernment# 8n the +th, colonel Monistrol sent me two o%en letters !rom rear&admiral sir /dward Pellew, commander in chie! in the /ast 6ndiesD in the !irst o! which it was said, CThe circumstances o! your situation ha"e im%ressed themsel"es most strongly on my attentionD and 6 !eel e"ery dis%osition to alle"iate your anBiety, without, 6 !ear, the means o! a!!ording you any %resent relie! !rom your "ery un%leasant situation# 6 ha"e transmitted your letter to the Admiralty, that ste%s may !orthwith be ta en !or your release at home, by e!!ecting your eBchange !or an o!!icer o! e@ui"alent ran D under an im%ression that at least it may insure your return to /uro%e on %arole, i! that should be a necessary %reliminary to your !inal liberation#C To gi"e an o!!icer o! e@ui"alent ran was %robably the most certain mode o! obtaining my s%eedy release, but was not altogether agreeable to justice# 6t seemed to me, that the liberation o! an o!!icer em%loyed on disco"ery, and bearing a %ass%ort, ought to be granted as a matter o! right, without any conditionsD and accom%anied with the

restitution o! e"ery thing belonging to his mission and himsel!, i! not with an atonement to the o!!ended laws o! good !aith and humanityD but this was only the AjustA, the "iews o! sir /dward were directed to the AeB%edientA, and showed a better nowledge o! man ind# 9is second letter, dated :anuary 1M, 1E,+, contained sentiments nearly similar to the !irst, without any new subject u%on which to ground the ho%e o! an early releaseD that my situation, howe"er, should ha"e eBcited the attention and interest o! an o!!icer o! sir /dward Pellew's established character and merit, i! it did not much increase the %ros%ect o! a s%eedy return to my country and occu%ations, was yet grati!ying to the !eelings, and a consolation under mis!ortune# 6n com%liance with an in"itation !rom M# 4urtat, a !riend o! our good !amily at the )e!uge, 6 went to his %lantation near the Baye du Tamarin, which was within my limitsD and had an o%%ortunity o! seeing his sugar and cotton manu!actories, as also the embouchure o! the ri"ers du Tamarin and du )em%art# The bay into which they are discharged is no more than a sandy bight in the low land, %artly !illed u% with coralD and it would soon be wholly so, did not the !resh stream !rom the ri"ers ee% a channel o%en in the middleD it is howe"er so shallow, that eBce%t in !ine weather !ishing boats e"en cannot enter without ris # ;%on a %lantation in the Plains o! 5t# Pierre, about one mile !rom the !oot o! the Montagne du )em%art, are some ca"erns which M# 4urtat %rocured me the means o! eBamining# 6n the entrance o! one is a %er%etual s%ring, !rom which a stream ta es its course under ground, in a "aulted %assageD M# *ucas, the %ro%rietor o! the %lantation, said he had traced it u%on a ra!t, by the light o! !lambeauB, more than hal! a mile without !inding its issueD but he su%%osed it to be in a small la e near the sea side# The other ca"erns had e"idently been connected with the !irst, until the roo! ga"e way in two %laces and se%arated them# The middle %ortion has a lo!ty arch, and might be !ormed into two s%acious a%artmentsD its length is not many !athoms, but the third %ortion, though less s%acious, runs in a winding course o! se"eral hundred yards# From being un%ro"ided with torches we did not %ass the whole length o! this third ca"ernD but at the two eBtremities, and as !ar within as could be distinguished, the roo! admitted o! standing u%right, and the breadth was eight or ten yards !rom side to side# About thirty years be!ore, this %art o! the Plains de 5t# Pierre had been co"ered with wood, and the ca"erns inhabited by a set o! maroon negroes, whose de%redations and murders s%read consternation in the neighbourhood# Their main retreat in the third ca"ern was disco"ered by a man whom they had le!t !or deadD but ha"ing watched them to their haunt, he ga"e in!ormation to the o!!icers o! justice, and troo%s were sent to ta e them# A!ter securing the !urther outlet, the soldiers cre%t to the %rinci%al entrance, near which the maroons e%t a sentinel with loaded mus et in the to% o! a treeD he was !ound nodding on his %ost, and ha"ing shot him they rushed in a body to the mouth o! the ca"ern# The %oor wretches within started !rom their beds, !or they sle%t in the day time, and !lew to armsD a s irmish ensued, in which another o! them was illed and two soldiers woundedD but at length, !inding their retreat cut o!!, the sentinel, who ha%%ened to be their ca%tain and chie! instigator, illed, and the !orce o%%osed to them too great to be o"ercome, they yielded themsel"es %risoners to the number o! !i!ty&oneD and were marched o!!, with their hands tied, to head @uarters, to the great joy o! the district# Besides arms and a small @uantity o! ammunition, there was little else !ound in the ca"ern than a bag o! dollars, a case o! wine, some %ieces o! cloth, a slaughtered goat, and a small %ro"ision o! maiJe

not more than enough !or one day# The s ull o! their ca%tain, who was said to be %ossessed o! much cunning and audacity, was at this time lying u%on a stone at the entrance o! the ca"ernD and !or narrowness o! !ront and large eBtent at the bac %art o! the head, was the most singularly !ormed cranium 6 e"er saw# 'ittle oblong inclosures, !ormed with small stones by the sides o! the ca"ern, once the slee%ing %laces o! these wretches, also eBisted, nearly in the state they had been le!tD owing a%%arently to the su%erstition o! the blac , and the %olicy and disgust o! the white "isitants to these eBca"ations# The stone here is mostly o! an iron&grey colour, hea"y, and %orousD and there were mar s u%on the sides o! the middle ca"ern which might ha"e arisen either !rom a sul%hureous substance yielded by the stone when in a state o! ignition, or !rom an im%regnated water draining through the roo! during a succession o! timeD u%on the whole, though it seemed %robable that these ca"erns owe their origin to the same cause as the subterraneous canal at Menil, the mar s o! !ire in them were neither distinct nor une@ui"ocal# The %osition o! these long, winding eBca"ations, in a country nearly le"el and o! small ele"ation, a%%eared to be the most eBtraordinary circumstance attending themD but in this island they are commonly so situate, %articularly that remar able one, o! which a detailed account is gi"en in Grant's A9istory o! MauritiusA !rom M# de 5t# Pierre# Fuitting 'e Tamarin with M# 4urtat, 6 went to the town o! Port 'ouis, to ta e u% my residence !or a !ew days with my !riend Pitot, the ca%tain&general ha"ing granted a %ermission to that e!!ect# 8ne o! the objects !or which 6 had as ed the %ermission, was to obtain a !urther one to "isit 'a Poudre d'8r and Flac@, on the north&east side o! the islandD but my a%%lication was re!used a!ter two or three days consideration, and accom%anied with an order to return immediately to Gilhems Plains# 6t a%%eared that general *e 4aen had recei"ed a letter o! re%roach !rom go"ernor =ing o! Port :ac son, inclosing, it was said, a co%y o! that 6 had written to the go"ernor in August 1E,-, wherein my rece%tion and treatment at Mauritius were described in colours not calculated to grati!y the general's !eelingsD it was e"en considered, and %erha%s was in him, a great act o! !orbearance that he did not order me to be closely con!ined in the tower# *uring this short residence in town, the attentions o! my !riend Pitot, o! ca%tain Bergeret, and se"eral other French inhabitants were such as bes%o e a desire to indemni!y me !or the ill treatment o! their go"ernor, whose conduct seemed to be generally disa%%ro"edD my ac@uaintance with major *unien"ille o! 'a 5a"anne was renewed, as also with M# Boand, the good 5wiss, whose anBiety to ser"e me when a %risoner in the 4a!e Marengo, had not lost any thing o! its ardour# At the Garden Prison, which 6 could not re!rain !rom "isiting, there was no one but the old serjeant, the siB or eight /nglishmen in the island being e%t at the Grande )i"iere# 6n returning to Gilhems Plains 6 made a tour by the district o! Mocha, both to see that %art o! the island and to "isit M# 9uet de Frober"ille, with whom his intimacy with the good !amily at the )e!uge had brought me ac@uaintedD this gentleman was ne%hew o! 9uetius, the celebrated bisho% o! A"ranches, and author o! A5idner, or the dangers o! imaginationA, a little wor %ublished in Mauritius# :;</ 1E,+ The usual season o! arri"als !rom France eB%ired with the month o! May, and the time ela%sed since my !irst detention, without being otherwise

noticed by the French go"ernment than gi"ing general *e 4aen its tem%orary a%%robation, had eBceedingly wea ened my con!idence in its justiceD it a%%eared moreo"er, that not only had no %ublic a%%lication been made by our go"ernment !or my liberty and the restitution o! my charts and journals, but that the ad"ancement 6 had been led to eB%ect in conse@uence o! the "oyage, was sto%%ed# This could not be !rom inattention, and there!ore %robably arose either !rom a want o! in!ormation, or !rom some misconcei"ed o%inions at the AdmiraltyD to remo"e which, it seemed necessary to transmit an account o! all the circumstances attending my im%risonment, accom%anied with the letters to and !rom the ca%tain&general, and such other %ieces as were %ro%er to the authentication o! the narrati"e# :;'$ 1E,+ 6 was occu%ied in writing this account when the Garren 9astings, richly laden !rom 4hina, was ta en by 'a Piemontaise and brought to MauritiusD and ca%tain 'ar ins ha"ing obtained %ermission to return to /ngland, he o!!ered by letter to ta e charge o! any thing 6 desired to transmit# The narrati"e, com%leted to the time o! lea"ing the Garden Prison, was there!ore con"eyed to himD and in an accom%anying letter to the Admiralty, my ho%es were eB%ressed that their 'ordshi%s would not su!!er an im%risonment, contrary to e"ery %rinci%le o! justice and humanity, to continue without notice&&without such ste%s being ta en to obtain my release and the restitution o! my remaining charts and %a%ers, as in their wisdom should seem meet# 4a%tain 'ar ins had ine!!ectually sought to obtain a %ermission to come to Gilhems Plains, and my re@uest to go to the town !or a day or two was re!usedD he there!ore sailed .A;G;5T 1E,+3 without my being able to see him or any o! his o!!icersD and his de%arture was %receded by that o! my !riend Pitot !or Bourbon, and !ollowed by the embar ation o! ca%tain Bergeret !or France# 6n conse@uence o! the many indnesses con!erred by M# Pitot on se"eral o! our countrymen as well as mysel!, 6 had been induced to write some letters at his re@uest to the commanders o! 9is Majesty's shi%sD recommending to their !a"our, in case o! being ta en, such o! his !riends as had a claim to it, either !rom ser"ices rendered to %risoners or !rom their su%erior talentsD and 6 did not let sli% the occasion o! his "oyage to Bourbon, to testi!y in this manner my sense o! his worth# To so!ten the rigour o! con!inement to deser"ing men, is a grate!ul tas D 6 concei"ed that a war between two nations does not necessarily entrain %ersonal enmity between each o! their res%ecti"e indi"iduals, nor should %re"ent us !rom doing %articular acts o! indness where merit and mis!ortune ma e the claimD and in the con!idence that such were the general sentiments o! o!!icers in the na"y, 6 had no hesitation in addressing mysel! to them# Possibly some would thin these a%%lications unad"isably madeD but no&&to distinguish merit and re%ay the debt o! gratitude contracted by un!ortunate brother o!!icers or countrymen, are too congenial to the hearts o! BritonsD to those who %roduced either, or both o! these titles an /nglish seaman could not be dea!, and on no other account was my su!!rage obtained# 4a%tain Bergeret's name was too well nown to need any recommendation !rom meD but 6 wished to eB%ress my gratitude !or his generous %roceedings to many /nglish %risoners, and to ha"e the ad"antage o! his in!luence in obtaining an order !rom his go"ernment !or my liberty, or otherwise !or being sent to France to be eBamined# The letter transmitted a short time be!ore he sailed, eB%resses the state o! a %risoner's mind when su!!ering under injustice and wearied with disa%%ointmentD on this

account, the greater number o! readers will be induced to eBcuse the insertion o! the !ollowing %assages, which otherwise are without im%ortance, and %erha%s without interest# 6 need not at this time call to your recollection what my situation is in this %lace# 6 ha"e been so long %ressed under the hand o! injustice, and my con!idence in the French go"ernment is so much eBhausted, that 6 am reduced to as ing as a !a"our what ought to be demanded as a right# 8n your arri"al in France then, my dear 5ir, !orget not that 6 am here&&that my %rayer is, to be eBamined, to be tried, to be condemned, i! 6 ha"e in action, intention, or thought, done any thing whilst em%loyed in my "oyage o! disco"ery, against the French nation or its allies&&i! in any way 6 ha"e in!ringed u%on the line o! conduct %rescribed by the %ass%ort o! the !irst consul o! France# To ha"e the best years o! my li!e, the essence o! my eBistence thus drained away without any eBamination into the a!!airD to ha"e the !ruits o! my labours and ris s thus ra"ished !rom me&&my ho%es o! ad"ancement and o! re%utation thus cruelly blasted, is almost beyond what 6 am able to su%%ort# ;se then, 6 conjure you, 5ir, your best endea"ours with those men in France who ha"e it in their %ower to !orward my wishD with those men !or whom a "oyage o! disco"ery, the %reser"ation o! national !aith, and the eBercise o! humanity ha"e still attractions# Gith such men, in s%ite o! the neglect which my eBtraordinary situation here has undergone, now near three years, 6 will not belie"e but that the French em%ire aboundsD a Fleurieu, a Bougain"ille, a 'alande, a *elambre, and numberless others&&can such men be strangers to national honour and humanityN 9as a man reduced to mis!ortune by his ardent Jeal to ad"ance geogra%hy and its indred sciences, no claims u%on men li e theseN 6t cannot be# 9owe"er unworthy an instrument 6 am in the hands o! our literary British worthies, my em%loyment, i! not my mis!ortunes, gi"e me a claim u%on their assistance in obtaining, at least, an eBamination into my crimes or my innocenceD and this claim 6 now ma e# 5ee these celebrated men, 5ir, eB%lain to them the circumstances o! my situation, tell them the %lain tale, and that it is towards them, though so distant, that my loo s are directedD your own name will gi"e you an introduction, and the cause you underta e will not disgrace it# Adieu, worthy 5ir, may the winds be %ro%itious, and may you ne"er be reduced to the bitterness o! sighing a!ter justice in "ain# 49APT/) V666# /!!ects o! re%eated disa%%ointment on the mind# Arri"al o! a cartel, and o! letters !rom 6ndia# 'etter o! the French marine minister# )estitution o! %a%ers# A%%lications !or liberty e"asi"ely answered# Attem%ted seiJure o! %ri"ate letters# Memorial to the minister# /ncroachments made at Paris on the 6n"estigator's disco"eries# /B%ected attac on Mauritius %roduces an abridgment o! 'iberty# 5trict bloc ade# Arri"al o! another cartel !rom 6ndia# 5tate o! the %ublic !inances in Mauritius# French cartel sails !or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# .AT MA;)6T6;5# G6'9/M5 P'A6<53

5/PT/MB/) 1E,+ <ews o! negotiations at Paris !or %eace !ormed the %rinci%al to%ic o! con"ersation at Mauritius in 5e%tember, and no one more than mysel! could desire that the e!!orts o! 'ord 'auderdale might be crowned with successD a return to /ngland in conse@uence o! such an e"ent was o! all things what 6 most desired, but the ho%e o! %eace, be!ore national animosity and the means o! carrying on war became diminished, was too !eeble to admit o! indulging in the antici%ation# <8V/MB/) 1E,+ The state o! incertitude in which 6 remained a!ter nearly three years o! anBiety, joined to the absence o! my !riends Bergeret and Pitot, brought on a dejection o! s%irits which might ha"e %ro"ed !atal, had 6 not sought by constant occu%ation to !orce my mind !rom a subject so destructi"e to its re%oseD such an end to my detention would ha"e gi"en too much %leasure to the ca%tain&general, and !rom a sort o! %er"ersity in human nature, this con"iction e"en brought its share o! su%%ort# 6 reconstructed some o! my charts on a larger scale, corrected and eBtended the eB%lanatory memoir, and com%leted !or the Admiralty an enlarged co%y o! the 6n"estigator's log boo , so !ar as the materials in my hands could admitD the study o! the French language was %ursued with increased a%%lication, and many boo s in it, %articularly "oyages and tra"els, were read# But what assisted most in dis%elling this melancholy, was a %ac et o! letters !rom /ngland, bringing intelligence o! my !amily and !riendsD and the satis!actory in!ormation that Mr# A en had sa!ely reached 'ondon, with all the charts, journals, letters and instruments committed to his charge# :A<;A)$ 1E,K <o occurrence more %articular than the de%arture in :anuary o! a %risoner o! war, which !urnished an o%%ortunity o! writing to /ngland, too %lace !or se"eral months# 6n A%ril .AP)6' 1E,K3 the season !or the arri"al o! shi%s !rom France was mostly %assed, and the ca%tain&general had still recei"ed no ordersD being than at the town, 6 re@uested o! him an audience through the inter"ention o! M# Bec mann, who engaged, in case o! re!usal, to enter into an eB%lanation with 9is /Bcellency and endea"our to learn his intentions# 8n his return, M# Bec mann said that the general had eB%ressed himsel! sensible o! the hardshi% o! my situation, and that he e"ery day eB%ected to recei"e orders !rom FranceD but being unable to do any thing without these orders, it was useless to see me, and he recommended waiting with %atience !or their arri"al# MA$ 1E,K 6n ac nowledgment !or the letter written to the <ational 6nstitute by the 5ociety o! /mulation, 6 sent to it a descri%tion o! Grec )ee!, with my conjectures u%on the %lace where the un!ortunate 'a Perouse had %robably been lostD and this letter, as also a succeeding one u%on the di!!erences in the "ariation o! the magnetic needle on shi%&board, was transmitted by the 5ociety to the 6nstitute at Paris# :;</ 1E,K The e!!ect o! long %rotracted eB%ectation, re%eatedly changing its object and as o!ten disa%%ointed, became strongly mar ed in my !aith!ul ser"ant# This worthy man had re!used to @uit the island at the general eBchange o!

%risoners in August 1E,M, and also in the !ollowing year when his com%anion, the lame seaman, went to America, because he would not abandon me in mis!ortuneD but the des%air o! our being e"er set at liberty had now wholly ta en %ossession o! his senses# 9e imagined that all the inhabitants o! the island, e"en those who were most !riendly, were leagued with the ca%tain&general against usD the signals on the hills communicated my e"ery ste%, the %olitical articles in the gaJettes related in a meta%horical manner the designs carrying on, the new laws at that time %ublishing showed the %unishments we were doomed to su!!er, %ersons seen in con"ersation, e"ery thing in !ine, had some conneBion with this mysterious leagueD and the dread o! some sudden and o"erwhelming blow le!t him no %eace, either by day or night# This state o! mind continued some months, his slee% and a%%etite had !orsa en him, and he wasted dailyD and !inding no other means o! cure than %ersuading him to return to /ngland, where he might still render me ser"ice, a %ermission !or his de%arture was re@uested and obtainedD and in the beginning o! :uly .:;'$ 1E,K3 he embar ed on board an American brig, !or Baltimore# 6 ga"e into his charge some remaining charts and boo s, and many lettersD and had the satis!action to see him more easy, and almost con"inced o! the !olly o! his terrors on !inding he was really allowed to go away, which till then, had a%%eared to him incredible# 8n the 1Eth, arri"ed the 9on# 4om%any's shi% Mar@uis Gellesley, as a cartel !rom Madras, with French %risonersD and !our days a!terward colonel Monistrol transmitted me a letter !rom the secretary o! sir /dward Pellew, containing the eBtract o! a des%atch to the ca%tain&general, and two letters o! a more recent date !rom the admiral himsel!# 8ne o! these, addressed u%on 9is Majesty's ser"ice, was as !ollows# 9# M# shi% *uncan, Madras )oads, 21st :une, 1E,K# 5ir, Two days ago 6 renewed my a%%lication to the ca%tain&general *e 4aen in your !a"our, re@uesting that 9is /Bcellency would %ermit o! your de%arture !rom the 6sle o! France, and suggesting the o%%ortunity now o!!ered by 9is Majesty's shi% Greyhound# 6 ha"e since recei"ed des%atches !rom /ngland, containing the letter o! which a co%y is now inclosed, !rom Mr# Marsden, secretary o! the Admiralty,7 therewith transmitting instructions !or your release under the authority o! the French minister o! marine, to the ca%tain&general o! the French establishments# 6 congratulate you most sincerely on this long %rotracted e"entD and 6 trust, i! your wishes induce you to %roceed to 6ndia, that you may be enabled to embar with ca%tain Troubridge, !or the %ur%ose o! %roceeding to /ngland !rom hence by the !irst o%%ortunity# >5igned#? /dward Pellew# .7 48P$# The accom%anying letter is understood to contain a direction !rom the French go"ernment !or the release o! ca%tain Flinders# 6t has already been transmitted to the 6sle o! France in tri%licateD but as it may be ho%ed that the "essels ha"e been all ca%tured, you had better ta e an o%%ortunity o! sending this co%y by a !lag o! truce, %ro"ided you ha"e

not heard in the mean time o! Flinders being at liberty# Admiralty, 2,th *ec# 1E,+# >5igned? Gilliam Marsden#3 The admiral's second letter was a %ri"ate one, in"iting me to ta e u% my residence in his house at Madras, until such time as the de%arture o! a =ing's shi% should !urnish an o%%ortunity o! returning to /nglandD and was accom%anied by one !rom ca%tain Troubridge, eB%ressing the %leasure he should ha"e in recei"ing meD but the Greyhound had already been sent away two daysO and nothing announced any haste in the general to %ut the order into eBecution# 6 then wrote to re@uest 9is /Bcellency would ha"e the goodness to con!irm the ho%es %roduced by these lettersD or that, i! they were !allacious, he would be %leased to let me now it# 6t was se"en days be!ore an answer was gi"enD colonel Monistrol then said, C9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general has charged me to answer the letter which you addressed to him on the 2-th o! this monthD and to tell you that, in e!!ect, he has recei"ed through the medium o! 9is /Bcellency sir /dward Pellew, a des%atch !rom 9is /Bcellency the minister o! the marine and the colonies o! France, relati"e to you# 6 am also charged to send you the co%y, herewith joined, o! that letterD and to in!orm you that so soon as circumstances will %ermit, you will !ully enjoy the !a"our which has been granted you by his Majesty the /m%eror and =ing#C This long eB%ected document !rom the marine minister was literally as !ollows#7 .7 The document, in French, is not included in this eboo #3 6t a%%eared !rom this letter, that so long be!ore as :uly 1E,-, the council o! state had come to a decision u%on my caseD which was, Ato a%%ro"e o! the conduct o! general *e 4aen, and !rom a %ure sentiment o! generosity, to grant my liberty and the restitution o! the 4umberlandA# This decision had lain o"er until March 1E,+, be!ore it was made e!!icient by the a%%ro"al o! the French em%erorD it had then been sent in tri%licate by French "esselsD and it seemed "ery eBtraordinary that in :uly 1E,K, the @uadru%licate sent !rom /ngland in *ecember, round by 6ndia, should !irst arri"e, when two or more "essels had come !rom France in the %receding twel"e months# 4olonel Monistrol's letter ga"e me to understand that the order would be eBecuted, but the time when, and the manner, were le!t in uncertaintyD 6 there!ore re@uested a %ermission to go to town !or the arrangement o! my a!!airs, ho%ing there to learn some !urther %articularsD this howe"er was re!used, the answer being, Cthat when the time o! my de%arture should be !iBed,C a %ermission would be granted !or as many days as were necessary# Ghence this delay in eBecuting the minister's order could arise, 6 new notD but ha"ing heard that the 4umberland had been remo"ed !rom her usual %lace, and !earing that her re%aration and re!itment might be the cause, a letter was sent to in!orm colonel Monistrol, .A;G;5T 1E,M3 Cthat the im%ossibility o! obtaining any better "essel !or a direct %assage to /ngland could alone ha"e induced me to underta e it in the 4umberlandD and that unless 9is /Bcellency denied me any other means o! @uitting the 6sle o! France, it was not my intention to re&embar in her# 6! there!ore it were 9is /Bcellency's desire that she should be restored to me, rather than her "alue, 6 ho%ed he would admit o! her being soldD and allow me to ta e a %assage on board some shi% bound to America or 6ndiaDC a re@uest !or the restitution o! my boo s and %a%ers was also made, that the inter"ening time might be em%loyed in arranging them !rom the disorder into which they had been thrown at the shi%wrec , !our years be!ore# At the end o! three wee s, a letter !rom the colonel in"ited me to go to

town, that he might restore the boo s and %a%ers, with the other objects relating to my "oyage o! disco"eryD and on %resenting mysel! at his o!!ice, the trun into which they had been %ut was gi"en u%D my sword and s%y&glasses were to be returned at the time o! de%arture, as also the amount o! the schooner and her stores, which had been "alued soon a!ter my arri"al# 8n as ing !or the two boBes o! des%atches, the colonel said they had long been dis%osed o!, and he belie"ed that something in them had contributed to my im%risonmentD and to an a%%lication !or the remaining journal, he re%lied that it was wanted !or the %ur%ose o! ma ing eBtracts, at which 6 eB%ressed sur%rise, seeing that it had been in the general's %ossession near !our years, and the French go"ernment had made its decision# 8n re@uesting to now i! it were intended to let me embar in the Gellesley cartel, then in %ort, it a%%eared that this had not been thought o!D and the colonel hinted, that the order !or my liberation had been gi"en at a moment when /ngland and France were in better intelligence than usual, and %erha%s would not be granted to an a%%lication made at the %resent timeD and it a%%eared !rom his con"ersation, that the restitution o! my %a%ers was not to be considered an assurance o! a s%eedy de%arture# A!ter @uitting colonel Monistrol, 6 eBamined the condition o! the %a%ers, and then sent him the !ollowing note and recei%t# 6 ha"e the honour to inclose a recei%t !or the boo s and %a%ers recei"ed yesterday# The rats ha"e made great ha"oc amongst them, and many %a%ers are wholly destroyedD but so !ar as 6 ha"e yet eBamined, those which are o! the most im%ortance seem to ha"e wholly, or in %art esca%ed their ra"ages# 6 shall return immediately within the limits o! my %arole, according to the directions o! 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&generalD to wait the time when he shall be %leased to eBecute the orders which his 6m%erial and )oyal Majesty thought %ro%er to gi"e on March 11, 1E,+, !or my liberationD and 6 ha"e the honour to be, etc# )ecei"ed !rom colonel Monistrol, Ache! de l'etat&major&generalA in the 6sle o! France, one trun containing the remainder o! the boo s, %a%ers, etc# ta en !rom me in Port <orth&Gest on *ec# 1K, 1E,2, and *ec# 21 o! the same yearD which boo s and %a%ers, with those recei"ed at two di!!erent times in 1E,-, ma e u% the whole that were so ta en, with the !ollowing eBce%tions# 1# Various letters and %a%ers either wholly or in %art destroyed by the rats, the remains o! which are in the trun # 2# The third "olume o! my rough log boo , containing the journal o! transactions and obser"ations on board the 6n"estigator, Por%oise, the 9o%e cutter, and 4umberland schooner, !rom sometime in :une to *ec# 1K, 1E,2, o! which 6 ha"e no du%licate# 2# Two boBes o! des%atches# The one !rom 9is /Bcellency go"ernor =ing o! <ew 5outh Gales, addressed to 9is Majesty's %rinci%al secretary o! state !or the coloniesD the other !rom colonel Paterson, lieutenant&go"ernor o! Port :ac son, the address o! which 6 cannot remember# 6n truth o! which 6 hereunto sign my name, at Port <a%oleon,7 6sle o! France#, this 2-th day o! August 1E,K# Matthew Flinders# 'ate commander o! 9# M# sloo% 6n"estigator, em%loyed on disco"eries to the 5outh 5eas with a French %ass%ort#

.7 Port 'ouis, a!ter ha"ing been changed to Port de la Montagne, Port <orth&Gest, and 6 belie"e borne one or two other names, was now called Port <a%oleonD Port Bourbon and 6sle Bourbon underwent similar changes( such was the in!leBibility o! French re%ublicanism#3 Messrs 'e Blanc and 5toc , the commander and commissary o! the Gellesley cartel, ha"ing a house in the town, 6 too this o%%ortunity o! seeing themD and it was agreed between us, that when the cartel was allowed to sail, Mr# 5toc should ma e an o!!icial re@uest !or my embar ation with him# As, howe"er, there was much reason to a%%rehend a re!usal, 6 arranged a great %art o! the boo s and %a%ers just recei"ed, with all the Port&:ac son letters, and sent them on board the GellesleyD writing at the same time .5/PT/MB/) 1E,K3 to 5ir /dward Pellew my sus%icion, that general *e 4aen would not eBecute the order he had recei"ed !rom the marine minister# This %recaution was not useless, !or in the beginning o! 8ctober the Gellesly was sent away suddenlyD and although she had been detained three months, not a %risoner was gi"en in eBchange !or those brought !rom 6ndia# Mr# 5toc le!t a co%y o! the letter he had written, as was agreed, and o! the answer !rom the general's secretaryD this said, Cthe ca%tain&general is "ery sorry that he cannot allow ca%tain Flinders to embar in the cartel Gellesley# 5o soon as circumstances will %ermit, that o!!icer will be set at liberty, and to that e!!ect be sent to 'ondon#C The most direct means o! con"eyance to 'ondon in time o! war, was assuredly by the way o! FranceD but two "essels, the !irst o! which was commanded by the brother o! the ca%tain&general, had sailed a short time be!ore !or that destinationD so that this answer, i! not !alse, was at least e@ui"ocal# My o%inion o! the general's un!air dealing had induced me to write by the last o! these French "essels to the minister o! the marine, re%resenting the little %robability there was o! his order being eBecutedD but this "essel was ca%tured, and my letter most %robably thrown o"erboard# An attem%t to gain some nowledge o! what were the ca%tain&general's intentions was made in the !ollowing letter, written on the 1+th, to colonel Monistrol# 5ir, $ou will do me a !a"our in transmitting the log boo which was detained !or the %ur%ose o! ma ing eBtracts !rom it, as they ha"e doubtless been made long since# At the same time, 5ir, you would relie"e me !rom much in@uietude, i! you could in!orm me o! the time at which it is the intention o! 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general to grant me the liberty which 9is 6m%erial and )oyal Majesty was %leased to accord in March 1E,+# B$ your letter o! :uly 2K last, 6 was led to ho%e !rom the eB%ression, C"ous jouireJ %leinement de la !a"eur,C etc#, that this long desired %eriod would soon arri"e# Ghat the circumstances are to which you allude in that letter, it is im%ossible !or me to nowD nor is it within my imagination to concei"e the circumstances which %ermit "essels to sail !or 6ndia or America, but which cannot allow o! my de%arture# The desire eB%ressed by 9is /Bcellency to ca%tain Bergeret and M# Bec mann, to recei"e orders relating to me, and to the latter that he was sensible o! the hardshi% o! my situation, led me to ho%e that he would ha"e ta en into consideration the length o! time that my detention had continued, the mis!ortune which %receded it, and the time ela%sed since the date o! the marine minister's letterD and 6 still intreat him to ta e them into his consideration# 6 ha"e su!!ered much, 5ir, in the 6sle o!

France, and the uncertainty in which 6 ha"e e"er been e%t has been one o! the bitterest ingredients in the cu%D 6 thought it eBhausted when you !a"oured me with the co%y o! the letter !rom 9is /Bcellency the ministerD but the dregs remained, and it seems as i! 6 must swallow them to the last dro%# 6! the means o! my return to /ngland cause any %art o! the delay, 6 beg to in!orm you o! my readiness to embrace any means, or any route, in the 4umberland e"en, i! it will sa"e time, or in any other "essel o! any nation# A %assage on board the !inest shi% one month hence, would not indemni!y me !or one month longer o! su!!ering, such as the last !orty&siB ha"e been# 6 am !ully %ersuaded that no re%resentation o! mine can change the arrangements o! the ca%tain&generalD i! there!ore the time and manner o! my return be absolutely !iBed, 6 ha"e only to re@uest that he will ha"e so much charity as to im%art themD or e"en the time only, when 6 may eB%ect to see mysel! out o! this !atal islandD !or the manner, when com%ared to the time, becomes almost indi!!erent# To now at what %eriod this waste o! the best years o! my li!e was to end, would so!ten the anguish o! my mindD and i! you would !a"our me with the return o! my log boo , 6 should ha"e an occu%ation which would still !urther tend to diminish it# 6 re@uest you to acce%t the assurances o! consideration with which 6 ha"e the honour to be, etc# The answer recei"ed eight days a!terward, said not a word o! the log boo D but sim%ly that Cso soon as a con"enient o%%ortunity !or my de%arture %resented itsel!, the ca%tain&general would order it to be communicatedDC which was e"idently no more than an e"asion, !or "essels had gone to France, and others were at that "ery time sailing e"ery wee , either to 6ndia or America, in any one o! which a %assage might ha"e been obtained# 6 was now induced to enter into the eBamination whether, in justice and honour, my %arole ought to continue to be a restraint !rom @uitting the islandD it had been gi"en to general *e 4aen as the re%resentati"e o! the French go"ernment&&that go"ernment had ordered me to be set at liberty&&and nothing was alleged !or not %utting the order into eBecution, other than the want o! a con"enient o%%ortunityD had 6 not then a right to see that o%%ortunity !or mysel!, since the ca%tain&general had let %ass so many without indicating any one o! themN This @uestion was debated a long time, and under e"ery %oint o! "iew, be!ore deciding u%on the line o! conduct which duty to my country, my !amily and mysel! %rescribed to be right# Many letters !or 6ndia, and a co%y o! my narrati"e !or sir /dward Pellew had been con!ided to my 5wiss !riend, M# Boand, who was to ha"e embar ed in the GellesleyD but at the moment o! sailing, the ca%tain&general ga"e an order to %re"ent his going on boardD the good man went immediately to as an audience o! 9is /Bcellency, and a!ter discussing his own case, s%o e o! my im%risonment and tried to learn when it would cease# That he could obtain nothing decisi"e, was to be eB%ectedD but that the general should %reser"e his tem%er during this con"ersation, and e"en answer gaily, though e@ui"ocally, to se"eral closely&%ut @uestions, was contrary to what usually ha%%ened when my name had been mentioned be!ore him# M# Boand was %ermitted to embar in a *anish shi%, which sailed early on the 2-thD but late in the e"ening be!ore, some %olice o!!icers went on board, searched his trun , and too away all the letters they could !ind, telling him he might then sail, they had got what they wanted# This

transaction eB%lained the general's "iews in %re"enting M# Boand's de%arture in the cartel, where a search could not decently ha"e been madeD also why the cartel had been sent o!! so suddenly that my letters could not be %ut on board, and the cause o! his moderation when s%ea ing o! my im%risonment# 9e was not decei"ed in su%%osing this !riend would be the bearer o! many letters, though "ery much so i! he ho%ed to !ind therein %roo!s o! my ha"ing acted, or intending to act contrary to the %ass%ortD he howe"er missed his aim altogether, as 6 learned some months a!terwardD the cautious 5wiss had se%arated my letters !rom those he had recei"ed !rom other %ersons, and these last only were !oundD but it was not less e"ident, that general *e 4aen was see ing all means to !orti!y himsel! with %reteBts to a"oid setting me at liberty# */4/MB/) 1E,K This year !inished in the same manner as the %receding, without the least change in my situationD but i! 6 had reason to com%lain o! the want o! justice, humanity, and good !aith in the ca%tain&general, there was, on the other hand, great cause to be satis!ied with the sustained attentions o! the inhabitants in my small circle, es%ecially o! those in the house where 6 still continued to dwellD and it was some consolation to see, that the interest generally ta en in my liberation increased with e"ery !resh act denoting %erse"erance in rigorous measures# :;'$ 1E,E 5iB other months had ela%sed when two "essels came !rom France, and it was nown that the ca%tain&general's brother had sa!ely reached ParisD he had sailed two months a!ter the order !or my liberty had arri"ed, and as the general had %robably communicated his intentions to the marine minister, he might ha"e recei"ed !resh directionsD 6 there!ore wrote to the chie! o! the sta!!, re@uesting to now whether the des%atches contained any thing to gi"e me ho%es o! early liberty, and re%eating my readiness to embar in any "essel o! any nationD but it was answered, that nothing in the des%atches related to this subject# 5/PT/MB/) 1E,E 5e"eral shi%s being in %re%aration to de%art !or France in 5e%tember, a memorial containing the circumstances %re"ious to and attending my im%risonment was made out, with authenticating %a%ers anneBed, to be transmitted to the minister o! the French marineD in this, 6 eB%lained the late conduct o! the ca%tain&general, and earnestly entreated that 9is /Bcellency would direct him to send me to France, by an order couched in such terms as should lea"e no room !or e"asionD declaring at the same time, %erha%s incautiously, that 6 considered his %re"ious order to ha"e released me !rom %arole# Two co%ies o! this memorial were con!ided to gentlemen who %romised to deli"er them in %erson to the ministerD or in case o! being ta en, to the ca%tain o! the /nglish man o! war who would !orward them to the Admiralty# There still remained 'a 5emillante, an old !rigate sold to the merchants, on board o! which two o!!icers o! the French na"y were to go as %assengers# This a!!orded the most desirable o%%ortunity o! sending me to France, i! such had been the general's intentionD and to do away all a!ter %reteBt o! not nowing it to be my wish, another re@uest was made to that e!!ect .84T8B/) 1E,E3D with a %ro%osition to engage, Cin case 'a 5emillante should not arri"e at her destination, to ta e the most direct means that could be !ound o! reaching France, and gi"ing mysel! u% into the hands o! the go"ernmentD should it be judged eB%edient to re@uire !rom me such a %arole#C 6n

answer to this letter, it was then said !or the !irst time, !i!teen months a!ter recei"ing the order !or my liberty, that the ca%tain&general, Cha"ing communicated to 9is /Bcellency the marine minister the moti"es which had determined him to sus%end my return to /uro%e, he could not authorise my de%arture be!ore ha"ing recei"ed an answer u%on the subject#C Thus the !re@uently eB%ressed desire o! general *e 4aen to recei"e orders, and the %romise, when they arri"ed, that 6 should be set at liberty so soon as circumstances would %ermit, were shown to be !allaciousD and the so long eB%ected order to be o! none e!!ect# The reasoning o! the inhabitants u%on this sus%ension was, that ha"ing been so long in the island, 6 had gained too much nowledge o! it !or my de%arture to be admitted with sa!etyD but i! this were so, the ca%tain&general was %unishing me !or his own o"ersight, since without the detention !orced by himsel!, the su%%osed dangerous nowledge could not ha"e been ac@uired# 6n calling it an o"ersight 6 am %robably wrong# Ghen the general su!!ered me to @uit the Garden Prison, he eB%ected the order which a!terwards arri"edD and what a%%eared to be granted as an indulgence, was %erha%s done with a "iew to this "ery %reteBt o! my too eBtended nowledge o! the islandD a %reteBt which could scarcely ha"e been alleged so long as 6 remained shut u% in %rison# <8V/MB/) 1E,E 8ne o! the na"al o!!icers who embar ed in 'a 5emillante had ser"ed in the eB%edition o! ca%tain BaudinD he too charge o! a tri%licate o! my memorial to the marine minister, and %romised to use his e!!orts in obtaining !or it a %ower!ul su%%ort# This tri%licate was accom%anied by many letters, addressed to distinguished characters in the ministry, the senate, in the council o! state and the national instituteD as well !rom mysel! as !rom se"eral worthy %ersons who interested themsel"es in the issue o! my detention# By this and another o%%ortunity, 6 stated to the Admiralty and the %resident o! the )oyal 5ociety the circumstances attending the order which had arri"edD and !rom these "arious ste%s united, my !riends in Mauritius concei"ed the ho%e o! a success almost certainD but !rom ha"ing been so o!ten decei"ed 6 was less sanguine, and saw only that i! this memorial and these letters !ailed, there was little ho%e o! being restored to liberty be!ore the uncertain e%och o! %eace# 1E,I 4onstant occu%ation was, as usual, my resource to beguile the time until the e!!ect o! the memorial and letters could be nown# Being !urnished by some !riends with se"eral manuscri%t tra"els and journals in the interior, and along the coasts o! Madagascar, 6 constructed a chart o! the northern hal! o! that eBtensi"e island, accom%anied with an analytical account o! my materialsD and in this em%loyment, reading "arious French authors, mathematical studies, and "isiting occasionally some o! the inhabitants within my circle, this time o! anBious sus%ense %assed not un%ro!itably# 6n the month o! March .MA)49 1E,I3 arri"ed the !rigate 'a Venus, ca%tain 9amelin, the same who had commanded 'e <aturaliste at Port :ac son# 9is a!!airs, or some other cause, %re"ented him !rom seeing or writing to meD but he told M# Pitot that many %ersons too an interest in my situation, and that se"eral o!!icers o! 'e Geogra%he and <aturaliste had made a%%lications to the marine minister# The answers they recei"ed had constantly been, that orders were sent out to Mauritius to set me at liberty and restore the 4umberlandD yet it was nown in France be!ore ca%tain 9amelin sailed, that these orders had not been eBecuted, and the !uture intentions o! the go"ernment were un nown# The %ublication o! the French "oyage o! disco"ery, written by M# Peron,

was in great !orwardnessD and the em%eror <a%oleon considering it to be a national wor , had granted a considerable sum to render the %ublication com%lete# From a Moniteur o! :uly 1E,E, it a%%eared that French names were gi"en to all my disco"eries and those o! ca%tain Grant on the south coast o! Terra AustralisD it was e%t out o! sight that 6 had e"er been u%on the coastD and in s%ea ing o! M# Peron's !irst "olume the news%a%ers asserted, that no "oyage Ae"erA made by the /nglish nation could be com%ared with that o! the Geogra%he and <aturaliste# 6t may be remembered, that a!ter eB%loring the 5outh 4oast u% to =angaroo 6sland, with the two gul%hs, 6 met ca%tain Baudin, and ga"e him the !irst in!ormation o! these %laces and o! the ad"antages they o!!ered himD and it was but an ill return to see to de%ri"e me o! the little honour attending the disco"ery# <o means were s%ared by the French go"ernment to enhance the merit o! this "oyage, and all the o!!icers em%loyed in it had recei"ed %romotionD but the 6n"estigator's "oyage seemed to obtain as little %ublic notice in /ngland as in France, no one o! my o!!icers had been ad"anced on their arri"al, and in addition to so many years o! im%risonment my own %romotion was sus%ended# 6t would ill become me to say that in one case there was an ostentatious muni!icence, or in the other, injustice and neglectD but the eBtreme di!!erence made between the two "oyages could not but add to the bitterness o! my situation, and diminish the little remaining ho%e o! being s%eedily and honourably liberated# A "essel !rom 5t# Malo arri"ed in May, and ga"e in!ormation that one o! the shi%s which carried a du%licate o! my memorial to the marine minister, had reached FranceD and in a !ew days 'a Bellone, a !rigate in which the brother o! the ca%tain&general was an o!!icer, got into Port 'ouisD she had sailed in the end o! :anuary and brought des%atches, but i! the general recei"ed any new order by this or the !ormer "essel, it was e%t to himsel!# 6n :une the /nglish cruisers sent in a !lag o! truce with a French lady, ta en in ''Agile !rom 5t# MaloD this lady brought many letters, in some o! which the arri"al in France o! 'a 5emillante was mentionedD also that Bona%arte was at Paris when ''Agile sailed, and that the na"al o!!icer who carried the last co%y o! my memorial had been %romoted and made a member o! the legion o! honour# 6 did now certainly entertain ho%es that general *e 4aen would ha"e recei"ed an order to set me at liberty, and that no !urther %reteBt !or %rolonging my detention would be admittedD but wee a!ter wee %assed as be!ore, without any intimation o! this so much desired e"ent# :;'$ 1E,I There was reason to belie"e that a direct a%%lication to now whether any order had arri"ed, would obtain no answerD there!ore a!ter waiting a month, 6 wrote to as Cwhether 9is /Bcellency would %ermit my wi!e to come and join me, should she %resent hersel! be!ore Port <a%oleon#C 6t was not in reality my intention that she should lea"e /ngland, but 6 ho%ed to draw the desired in!ormation !rom the answerD and in siB wee s .5/PT/MB/) 1E,I3, a!ter another "essel had arri"ed !rom France, one was gi"en to the !ollowing e!!ect( CThe ca%tain&general will not o%%ose the residence o! your wi!e in the colonyD but with res%ect to a sa!e conduct, it is necessary that Mrs# Flinders should a%%ly to the ministers o! 9is Britannic Majesty, who should ma e the re@uest to those o! 9is Majesty the /m%eror and =ingDC which was e@ui"alent to saying, either that no !resh order to set me at liberty had been recei"ed, or that it would not be %ut into eBecution# At this time there was much tal o! an attac u%on the island, said to be

%rojected by the British go"ernmentD and all the /nglish o!!icers, %risoners o! war, were ta en !rom their %aroles and closely shut u%# 6n the middle o! the month our cruisers @uitted the island uneB%ectedly, and a !ortnight a!terwards it was nown that they gone to Bourbon, and made an attac u%on the town o! 5t# PaulD both the town and bay were then in their %ossession, as also 'a 4oraline !rigate and two 6ndiamen her %riJes, u%on which this go"ernment had counted !or su%%lying its de!iciency o! re"enue# *uring the attac , great disorders had been committed by the blac sla"es, and the humane care o! commodore )owley and his ca%tains had alone %re"ented greater eBcessesD this intelligence %ut a sto% to the raising o! regiments o! sla"es !or the de!ence o! Mauritius, which the ca%tain&general had commenced under the name o! A!rican battalions, much against the sense o! the inhabitants# These "arious circumstances, with the distress o! the go"ernment !or money, caused much agitation in the %ublic mindD and it was to be a%%rehended that general *e 4aen would scarcely su!!er me to remain with the usual degree o! liberty, whilst all the other %risoners were shut u%# 6 endea"oured by great circums%ection to gi"e no umbrage, in order to a"oid the numberless incon"eniences o! a close im%risonmentD but in the beginning o! 8ctober .84T8B/) 1E,I3 a letter came !rom colonel Monistrol, saying that C9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general ha"ing learned that 6 sometimes went to a considerable distance !rom the habitation o! Madame *'Ari!at, had thought %ro%er to restrain my %ermission to reside in the interior o! the colony on %arole, to the lands com%osing that habitation#C This order showed that the general had either no distinct idea o! a %arole o! honour, or that his o%inion o! it di!!ered widely !rom that commonly recei"edD a %arole is usually thought to be a con"ention, whereby, in order to obtain a certain %ortion o! liberty, an o!!icer %romises not to ta e any greaterD but general *e 4aen seemed to eB%ect me to be bound by the con"ention, whilst he withdrew such %ortion o! the ad"antages as he thought %ro%er, and this without troubling himsel! about my consent# 6! any doubts remained that the order o! the French go"ernment had in strict justice liberated me !rom %arole, this in!raction by the ca%tain&general was su!!icient to do them awayD ne"ertheless the same reasons which had %re"ented me declaring this con"iction long be!ore, restrained the declaration at this timeD and 6 returned the !ollowing answer to colonel Monistrol, written in French that no %reteBt o! bad translation might a!terwards be alleged# 5ir, $esterday at noon 6 had the honour o! recei"ing your letter o! the 1st# inst# 6t is true that 6 ha"e sometimes %ro!ited by the %ermission contained in the %arole which 6 had gi"en >@ue j'a"ais donnee? on Aug 22, 1E,M, by which 6 was allowed to go as !ar as two leagues !rom the %lantation o! Madame *'Ari!atD but since 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general has thought good to ma e other regulations, 6 shall endea"our to conduct mysel! with so much %rudence res%ecting the orders now gi"en, that 9is /Bcellency will not ha"e any just cause o! com%laint against me# 6 ha"e the honour to be, etc# The two objects 6 had in "iew in gi"ing this answer, were, to %romise nothing in regard to my mo"ements, and to a"oid close im%risonment i! it could be done without dishonourD had it been demanded whether 6 still considered the %arole to be in !orce, my answer was %er!ectly ready and "ery short, but no such @uestion was as ed# Many circumstances had gi"en room to sus%ect, that the ca%tain&general secretly desired 6 should

attem%t an esca%eD and his "iew in it might either ha"e been to some eBtraordinary se"erity, or in case his s%ies !ailed o! gi"ing timely in!ormation, to charging me with ha"ing bro en %arole and thus to throw a "eil o"er his own injustice# 9ence it might ha"e been that he did not see to now whether, being restricted to the %lantation o! Madame *'Ari!at, 6 still admitted the obligatory %art o! the %arole to be bindingD and that the eB%ression in my answer&&Athe %arole which 6 had gi"enA, im%lying that it eBisted no longer, %assed without @uestion# 9owe"er this might be, 6 thence!orward declined acce%ting any in"itations beyond the immediate neighbourhood o! the %lantationD and until the decisi"e moment should arri"e, amused by solitude with instructing the two younger sons o! our good !amily in the elements o! mathematical science, with in"enting %roblems and calculating tables that might be use!ul to na"igation, and in reading the most esteemed French authors# A!ter the e"acuation o! the town and bay o! 5t# Paul at Bourbon, the bloc ade o! Mauritius was resumed by commodore )owley with increased strictness# The !rigate 'a 4anonniere and the %riJe !ormerly 9# M# shi% 'aurel, which the want o! a !ew thousand dollars had induced the go"ernment to let !or !reight to the merchants, were thus %re"ented sailingD and a cartel !itted long be!ore to carry the /nglish %risoners to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, and waiting only, as was generally su%%osed, !or the de%arture o! these two shi%s, was delayed in conse@uence# Ghen ca%tains Goolcombe and 'ynne o! the na"y had been desired in August to ee% themsel"es in readiness, 6 had committed to the obliging care o! the latter many letters !or /ngland, and one !or admiral Bertie at the 4a%eD but instead o! being sent away, these o!!icers with the others were %ut into close con!inement, and their %ros%ects retarded until the hurricane season, when it was eB%ected the island would ha"e a res%ite !rom our cruisers# */4/MB/) 1E,I 6n the beginning o! *ecember, des%atches were said to ha"e arri"ed !rom France, and the marine minister ha"ing recei"ed my memorial in the early %art o! the year, !ull time had been gi"en to send out a !resh orderD but disa%%ointment on such arri"als had been so constant during greater %art o! the siB years to which my im%risonment was now %rolonged, that 6 did not at this time thin it worth as ing a @uestion on the subject# A British cartel, the 9arriet, arri"ed !rom 6ndia on the 12th, with the o!!icers o! 'a Piemontaise and 'a :enaD the 9arriet was commanded by Mr# :ohn )amsden, !ormerly con!ined with me in the Garden Prison, and the commissary o! %risoners was 9ugh 9o%e, /s@#, whom 'ord Minto had %articularly sent to negotiate an eBchange with general *e 4aen# The cartel had been sto%%ed at the entrance o! the %ort by the bloc ading s@uadron, and been %ermitted to come in only at the earnest re@uest o! Mr# 9o%e and the %arole o! the %risoners to go out again with him should the eBchange be re!used# 6n a !ew days 6 recei"ed an o%en letter !rom Mr# 5toc , the !ormer commissaryD and ha"ing learned that Mr# 9o%e %ro%osed to use his endea"ours !or my release, a co%y o! all the letters to and !rom colonel Monistrol, subse@uent to the marine minister's order, was transmitted, that he might be better enabled to ta e his measures with e!!ectD and towards the end o! the month, a letter !rom the commissary in!ormed me o! the "ery !a"ourable rece%tion he had met with !rom the ca%tain&general, o! the subject o! my liberty ha"ing been touched u%on, and o! his entertaining ho%es o! a !inal success# The !lattering rece%tion gi"en to Mr# 9o%e had been remar ed to me with sur%rise !rom se"eral handsD but a long eB%erience o! general *e 4aen %re"ented any !aith in the success o! his a%%lication !or my release( 6 !eared that Mr#

9o%e's wishes had caused him to inter%ret !a"ourably some so!tened eB%ressions o! the general, which he would in the end !ind to merit no sort o! con!idence# :A<;A)$ 1E1, 'a Venus !rigate, a!ter her eB%loit at Ta%%anouli, got into the Blac )i"er on the !irst o! :anuary, notwithstanding the %resence o! our cruisersD she had on board a %art o! the +Ith regiment, with the o!!icers and %assengers o! the Gindham, including !i"e ladies, and announced the ca%ture o! two other shi%s belonging to the /ast&6ndia 4om%anyD and two days a!terward, the !rigates 'a Manche and 'a Bellone entered Port 'ouis with the ;nited =ingdom and 4harleston, the Portuguese !rigate Miner"a, and 9is Majesty's sloo% Victor >!ormerly 'a :ena?# This was a most %ro"o ing sight to commodore )owley, whom ba!!ling winds and his %osition o!! the Blac )i"er %re"ented sto%%ing themD whilst the joy it %roduced in the island, more es%ecially amongst the o!!icers o! the go"ernment who had been many months without %ay, was eBcessi"e# The ordinary sources o! re"enue and emolument were nearly dried u%, and to ha"e recourse to the merchants !or a loan was im%ossible, the !ormer bills u%on the French treasury, drawn it was said !or three millions o! li"res, remaining in great %art un%aidD and to such distress was the ca%tain&general reduced !or ways and means, that he had submitted to as a "oluntary contribution in money, wheat, maiJe, or any ind o! %roduce !rom the hal!&ruined colonists# Promises o! great re!orm in the administration were made at that timeD and it was e"en said to ha"e been %romised, that i! %ecuniary succour did not arri"e in siB months, the ca%tain&general would retire and lea"e the inhabitants to go"ern themsel"esD and had the !rigates not returned, or returned without %riJes, it seemed %robable that such must ha"e been the case#7 .7 According to in!ormation !rom "arious sources, the %riJes brought to Mauritius were dis%osed o! in this manner# The %roceeds went !irst into the hands o! the go"ernment, which too ten %er cent# as a duty u%on the sales, and a!terwards one&third o! the remainder as its %ro%er right# 5iBty %er cent# remained !or the ca%tors, but the necessities o! the state being generally urgent, it too thirty more, gi"ing bills !or the amount on the treasury o! FranceD and !or the remaining %ortion, it was %arted with so reluctantly that the in!erior o!!icers and seamen were seldom able to obtain a dollarD but they were o!!ered other bills, and these they were glad to sell !or almost any thing to the inhabitants# This was the distribution to the !rigatesD the %riJes brought in by %ri"ateers were not so %ro!itable to the go"ernment, its claims being limited, 6 belie"e, to the ten %er cent# duty and one&third o! the remainder#3 The hurricane season was now arri"edD and the 4anonniere and 'aurel ha"ing ta en ad"antage o! our cruisers being at a little distance to get out at night, the British s@uadron abandoned the island# /B%ecting then that the cartel !or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e would be sent away, 6 augmented the number o! letters !or /ngland and the 4a%e in the hands o! ca%tain 'ynneD and transmitted to him the greater %art o! my boo s and clothes, which he had the goodness to send on board with his own# 5o many "essels had arri"ed !rom France, and amongst them two during this month o! :anuary, without %roducing any !resh in!ormation, that almost all ho%e !rom my memorial to the marine minister had ceasedD and should the ca%tain&general send me in this cartel, contrary to eB%ectation, then my e!!ects were already on board# 5he sailed on the 2Ith, with ca%tains Goolcombe and 'ynne and the commanders o! the 4om%any's shi%s Gindham,

4harleston and ;nited =ingdom, and their o!!icersD ca%tain G# 8wen o! the 5ea Flower and the remaining /nglish o!!icers were reser"ed !or the Bengal cartel, commanded by Mr# )amsdenD and with res%ect to the seamen and soldiers, a %art only o! the crews o! the 'aurel and 5ea Flower, and o! the +Ith regiment were le!t, many o! them ha"ing been seduced !rom their allegiance to enlist in the French ser"ice# 49APT/) 6H# A %ros%ect o! liberty, which is o!!icially con!irmed# 8ccurrences during ele"en wee s residence in the town o! Port 'ouis and on board the 9arriet cartel# Parole and certi!icates# *e%arture !rom Port 'ouis, and embar ation in the 8tter# /ulogium on the inhabitants o! Mauritius# )e"iew o! the conduct o! general *e 4aen# Passage to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, and a!ter se"en wee s stay, !rom thence to /ngland# 4onclusion# .AT MA;)6T6;5# G6'9/M5 P'A6<5#3 :A<;A)$ 1E1, The French cartel !or the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e had sailed two days when a %ac et boat arri"ed with des%atches !rom Bayonne, and !rom the unusual degree o! secrecy obser"ed res%ecting them, some %ersons were willing to su%%ose that orders to set me at liberty !ormed %art o! their contentsD o! this, the most %rudent mode to gain in!ormation was to wait %atiently !or the sailing o! the /nglish cartel !or 6ndia, when my embar ation therein or being again le!t the sole British %risoner in the island, would a!!ord a %ractical solution o! the @uestion# 6n the time o! waiting !or this e"ent, 6 re"ised some notes u%on the magnetism o! the earth and o! shi%s, and considered the eB%eriments necessary to elucidate the o%inions !ormed !rom obser"ations made in the 6n"estigatorD and 6 was thus occu%ied when, on March 12th .MA)49 1E1,3, a letter came !rom Mr# 9o%e, the commissary o! %risoners, to in!orm me that he had obtained the ca%tain&general's %romise !or my liberty, and de%arture !rom the island with him in the 9arriet# This unho%ed !or intelligence would ha"e %roduced eBcessi"e joy, had not eB%erience taught me to distrust e"en the %romises o! the generalD and es%ecially when, as in the %resent case, there was no cause assigned !or this change in his conduct# 6 dared not there!ore allow my imagination to contem%late a meeting with my !amily and !riends as li ely to soon ta e %lace, nor to dwell u%on any subject altogether /nglishD the same %re%aration howe"er was made !or a de%arture, as i! this %romise were eB%ected to be !ul!illed# 6t was re%orted that the 9arriet would sail within a !ortnight a!ter two !rigates and a sloo% should ha"e gone out u%on a cruiseD and as these shi%s sailed on the 1-th, the o!!icial in!ormation o! my liberty, i! really granted, might be eB%ected daily# 6t will be belie"ed that 6 sought on all hands to learn whether any thing had trans%ired !rom the go"ernment to bes%ea an intention o! su!!ering me to go in the cartelD but it was without success, and e"ery %erson endea"oured to discourage the ho%e, with a !riendly design o! so!tening another %robable disa%%ointment# They argued, that !or general *e 4aen to let me go at this time, when 6 new so much o! the island and an attac

u%on it was eB%ected, would be to contradict all the reasons hitherto gi"en !or my detentionD and there!ore, that unless he had recei"ed a new and %ositi"e order, he could not with any degree o! consistency set me at liberty# This state o! sus%ense, between ho%e and a%%rehension, continued until the 2Eth, when an eB%ress !rom the town, sent by M# Pitot, brought the !ollowing welcome in!ormation !rom colonel Monistrol# 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general charges me to ha"e the honour o! in!orming you, that he authorises you to return to your country in the cartel 9arriet, on condition o! not ser"ing in a hostile manner against France or its allies during the course o! the %resent war# )ecei"e, 6 %ray you, 5ir, the assurance o! the %leasure 6 ha"e in ma ing you this communication, and o! the sentiments o! %er!ect consideration with which 6 ha"e the honour to be, etc# P# 5# The cartel is to sail on 5aturday neBt >21st#? Being then satis!ied o! the intention to %ermit my return to /ngland, though the cause o! it was in"ol"ed in mystery, 6 "isited our immediate, and still almost incredulous neighbours, to ta e lea"e o! themD and wrote letters to the %rinci%al o! those more distant inhabitants, whose indness demanded my gratitude# /arly neBt morning a red !lag with a %endant under it, showing one or more o! our shi%s to be cruising be!ore the %ort, was hoisted u%on the signal hillsD this was an unwelcome sight, !or it had been an in"ariable rule to let no cartel or neutral "essel go out, so long as /nglish shi%s were be!ore the island# 6 howe"er too lea"e o! the bene"olent and res%ectable !amily which had a!!orded me an asylum during !our years and a hal!D and on arri"ing at my !riend Pitot's in the town, was met by Messrs# 9o%e and )amsden, neither o! whom new any other reason !or setting me at liberty than that the ca%tain&general had granted it to Mr# 9o%e's solicitations# .AT MA;)6T6;5# P8)T '8;65#3 8n waiting u%on colonel Monistrol on the 2,th, it a%%eared that nothing had been done relati"e to the 4umberland, or to returning what had been ta en away, %articularly the third "olume o! my log boo so o!ten be!ore mentionedD he %romised howe"er to ta e the ca%tain&general's %leasure u%on these subjects, and to re%eat my o!!er o! ma ing and signing any eBtracts !rom the boo which 9is /Bcellency might desire to %reser"e# 6n the e"ening 6 had the %leasure to meet a large %arty o! my countrymen and women, at a dinner gi"en by M# Foisy, %resident o! the 5ociety o! /mulationD and !rom the di!!iculty o! s%ea ing /nglish a!ter a cessation o! !our years, 6 then became con"inced o! the %ossibility o! a man's !orgetting his own language# AP)6' 1E1, There were lying in %ort two *utch and one American "essel, with a number o! Frenchmen on board, whom marshal *aendels, go"ernor o! the remaining *utch %ossessions in the /ast, had engaged to o!!icer some new regiments o! MalaysD these "essels waited only !or the absence o! our cruisers to go to Bata"iaD and that we might not gi"e in!ormation o! them was the alleged cause !or detaining the cartel all the month o! A%ril, our s@uadron ee%ing so close o!! the %ort that they dared not "enture out# MA$ 1E1,

8n May 2, ca%tain Gilloughby o! the <ereide made a descent u%on the south side o! the island, at Port :acotetD where he cut out ''/sta!ette %ac et boat, s%i ed the guns o! the !ort, carried o!! the o!!icer with two !ield %ieces, and M# /tienne Bolger, commandant o! the @uarter o! 'a 5a"anne, the same who had acted so ungraciously on my arri"al at the Baye du 4a%# This Asullying o! the French territoryA %roduced a !ulminating %roclamation !rom general *e 4aen, nearly similar in terms to that o! the em%eror <a%oleon a!ter the descent at GalcherenD its e!!ect on the inhabitants, howe"er, was not much, !or on as ing some o! them what they thought o! this second&hand gasconade, the re%ly was, C8h it is not to us, it is to Bona%arte that the %roclamation is addressedDC meaning that it was a bait to catch his a%%robation# Three days a!terwards a !lag o! truce was sent out to negotiate an eBchange !or M# Bolger and the o!!icer who had commanded the !ort, !or whom twenty soldiers o! the +Ith regiment were gi"enD we a!terwards learned that a %ro%osal had been made to let the cartel sail, %ro"ided the s@uadron would su!!er her to %ass without being "isitedD but to this arrangement ca%tain Pym, the then senior o!!icer, re!used his consent# An order was gi"en on the Eth !or all the British o!!icers to embar in the cartel, and we ho%ed to sail immediatelyD but the merchants o! the town %resented a %etition to the ca%tain&general !or a delay, lest we might gi"e in!ormation o! the eB%ected arri"al o! some shi%s !rom France# 8ur cruisers were stationed %ur%osely to sto% e"ery French "essel, whether going in or out, and this %etition there!ore seemed to be ridiculousD it a%%eared howe"er to be com%lied with, !or we not only were %re"ented sailing, but denied all communication with the inhabitants !or se"eral wee sD and the !i"e ladies on board were as much subjected to these restrictions as the o!!icers# The French cartel returned !rom the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e on the 1,th, with eBchanged %risonersD and the !ormer re%orts o! a %rojected attac on Mauritius and Bourbon were so strongly re"i"ed that general *e 4aen made a tour o! the island, in order, as was said, to ha"e batteries erected at all the landing %laces without de!ence, and to strengthen the eBisting !orti!ications# 8n the 1Eth, an eBchange was made with the s@uadron o! siBteen soldiers and %eo%le out o! the %rison on shore, !or the commander and some others o! ''/sta!etteD but nothing trans%ired relati"e to the sailing o! the cartel# :;</ 1E1, :une 2, a salute o! twenty&one guns was !ired to celebrate the marriage o! the French em%eror with the %rincess Maria 'ouisa o! Austria# This intelligence, accom%anied with that o! the ca%ture o! 'a 4anonniere, was brought by a shi% !rom BourdeauB, which had succeeded in getting into the Blac )i"er, as had ''Atree !rigate some wee s be!ore# The entrance o! these "essels at the time that !i"e or siB o! our shi%s were cruising round the island, a!!ords additional %roo! o! the im%ossibility o! bloc ading it e!!ectually, without a much more eBtensi"e !orce than so small a s%ot can be thought to deser"e# Mauritius owes this ad"antage %rinci%ally to its numerous hillsD !rom whence "essels at sea are in!ormed by signal o! the situation o! the cruisers, and are thus enabled to a"oid them# 8n the Kth, a %arole made out by the /nglish inter%reter was brought on board !or me to signD and at daylight o! the 1Eth a %ilot came to ta e the cartel out o! harbour, and we recei"ed !orty&siB seamen o! the 5ea Flower and soldiers o! the +IthD my sword was then deli"ered bac , and the !ollowing du%licate o! the %arole was gi"en, with a certi!icate anneBed !rom colonel Monistrol#

6 undersigned, ca%tain in 9is Britannic Majesty's na"y, ha"ing obtained lea"e o! 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general to return in my country by the way o! Bengal, %romise on my word o! honour not to act in any ser"ice which might be considered as directly or indirectly hostile to France or its allies, during the course o! the %resent war# Matthew Flinders# :e soussigne certi!ie @ue monsieur Mathieu Flinders, ca%itaine des "aisseauB de 5a Majeste Britanni@ue, a obtenu l'autorisation de 5on /Bcellence le ca%itaine&general *e 4aen de retourner dans sa %atrie, auB conditions enoncees ci&dessus, dont le double est reste entre mes mains# Au Port <a%oleon, 6sle de France, le K :uin 1E1,# ''adjutant commt#, che! de l'etat&major&gen# >5igned? Monistrol# 6 had much !eared to be laid under the obligation o! going to 6ndia, and o! thus losing some months o! time and incurring a considerable and useless eB%enseD but although the %arole eB%resses the Cha"ing obtained lea"e to return by the way o! Bengal,C neither the %art containing my %romise nor the certi!icate o! colonel Monistrol s%eci!ied any %articular routeD and the o!!icer o! the sta!! who deli"ered this du%licate, said he su%%osed 6 should not lose time in going to 6ndia, but %roceed to the 4a%e in the !irst "essel sent in by the s@uadron# Fre@uent mention has been made o! attem%ts to %rocure bac the third "olume o! my journal, the sole boo remaining in the hands o! the ca%tain&general# Twice during my residence in the town these attem%ts had been renewed, but with no better e!!ect than were my a%%lications res%ecting the 4umberlandD nor would certi!icates be gi"en o! the re!usal either o! these objects or o! the Port&:ac son des%atches# 6 there!ore re@uested Mr# 9o%e to certi!y the ste%s which had been ta en, that the Admiralty and 5ecretary o! 5tate might be satis!ied o! e"ery thing in my %ower ha"ing been doneD and this he did in the !ollowing terms# This is to certi!y to whomsoe"er it may concern, that a!ter ha"ing succeeded in eBecuting that %art o! the instructions o! 9is /Bcellency lord Minto, go"ernor&general o! British 6ndia, relating to the liberation o! Matthew Flinders, /s@#, late commander o! 9is Majesty's shi% 6n"estigator, who had been detained more than siB years in the 6sle o! France, 6 did, at the re@uest o! ca%tain Flinders, ma e a %ersonal a%%lication to 9is /Bcellency general *e 4aen !or the third "olume o! the log boo o! his "oyage o! disco"ery, which that o!!icer re%resented to be still e%t !rom him by 9is /Bcellency# That the answer to this was a %ositi"e re!usal, both o! the boo and o! %ermission to ta e a co%y o! itD and the reason gi"en !or this re!usal was, that ca%tain F# Anot being set at liberty in conse@uence o! any orders !rom FranceA, e"ery thing relating to this log boo and to his little schooner 4umberland must remain to be settled between the French and British go"ernments in /uro%e# 6 do !urther certi!y that ca%tain Flinders did, in my %resence, a%%ly to the chie! o! the sta!! in the 6sle o! France, !or certi!icates o! the abo"e log boo and schooner being re!used to be gi"en u%D and also !or a certi!icate o! two boBes o! des%atches ha"ing been ta en on his arri"al in this island, in *ecember 1E,2, and that 6 ha"e since made a similar

a%%lication to the same o!!icer !or the said certi!icatesD but which ha"e been re!used !or the same alleged reason as be!ore gi"en to me by 9is /Bcellency the ca%tain&general *e 4aen# Gitness my hand on board the 9arriet cartel, in Port <a%oleon, 6sle o! France, this Ith o! :une 1E1,# >5igned? 9# 98P/, 4ommissary and agent o! the British go"ernment in 6ndia !or the eBchange o! %risoners# 6t may %robably be as ed, what could be general *e 4aen's object in re!using throughout to gi"e u% this log boo , or to su!!er any co%y to be ta enN 6 can see no other reasonable one, than that the statements !rom it, sent to the French go"ernment as reasons !or detaining me a %risoner, might ha"e been %artial and mutilated eBtractsD and he did not choose to ha"e his accusations dis%ro"ed by the %roduction either o! the original or an authentic co%y# Besides this boo and the little schooner, 6 lost a cas containing %ieces o! roc collected !rom di!!erent %arts o! Terra Australis, the two s%y&glasses ta en in the Garden Prison, and "arious small articles belonging to mysel!D but 6 was too ha%%y at the %ros%ect o! getting out o! the island to ma e any di!!iculty u%on these heads# .8FF MA;)6T6;5#3 8n the same morning that the %ilot came on board, the anchors were weighedD but in swinging out, the shi% touched the ground, and hung till %ast !our in the a!ternoon# *uring this time we saw ''/sta!ette coming in with a !lag o! truce !rom the s@uadronD and the boat that went to meet her was returning when the cartel had !loated o!!, and sail was made# Ge were a good deal alarmed at what might be the subject o! ''/sta!ette's communication, and %articularly anBious to get without side o! the %ort be!ore any counter order should come !rom the generalD at sunset it was e!!ected, the French %ilot le!t us, and a!ter a ca%ti"ity o! siB years, !i"e months and twenty&se"en days, 6 at length had the ineB%ressible %leasure o! being out o! the reach o! general *e 4aen# Three !rigates and a sloo% o! war com%osed the s@uadron cruising be!ore the %ortD but instead o! coming to s%ea us !or in!ormation, as was eB%ected, we obser"ed them standing away to the southwardD a %roceeding which could be reconciled only u%on the su%%osition, that commodore )owley had sent in an o!!er not to communicate with the cartel# This was too im%ortant an a!!air to me to be let %ass without due in@uiryD my endea"ours were there!ore used with Mr# )amsden, the commander, to induce him to run down to the shi%sD and this was done, on !inding they %ersisted in stretching to the southward# At nine o'cloc Mr# )amsden went in a boat to the Boadicea, but was desired to ee% o!!D a letter was handed to him !or the commissary, containing a co%y o! one sent in by ''/sta!ette, wherein it was %ro%osed, i! general *e 4aen would su!!er the cartel to sail, that she should not be "isited by any shi% under the commodore's orders# Mr# 9o%e re%lied that the cartel had not come out in conse@uence o! this %ro%osal, nor had the boat reached the shore at the timeD and this %oint being clearly ascertained, a communication was o%ened, and 6 a%%lied !or a %assage to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# 6t ha%%ened !ortunately, that the 8tter sloo% o! war was re@uired to go there immediately with des%atchesD and the commodore ha"ing satis!ied himsel! that no engagement o! the commissary o%%osed it, com%lied with my re@uest# <eBt day 6 too lea"e o! Mr# 9o%e, to whose Jeal and address 6 owed so much, and wished my com%anions in the cartel, with her worthy

commander, a good "oyageD and a!ter dining with commodore )owley, embar ed in the e"ening on board the 8tter with ca%tain Tom inson# 8n bidding adieu to Mauritius, it is but justice to declare that during my long residence in the island, as a mar ed object o! sus%icion to the go"ernment, the ind attention o! the inhabitants who could ha"e access to me was in"ariableD ne"er, in any %lace, or amongst any %eo%le, ha"e 6 seen more hos%itality and attention to strangers&&more sensibility to the mis!ortunes o! others, o! what e"er nation, than here&&than 6 ha"e mysel! eB%erienced in Mauritius# To the names o! the two !amilies whose unremitting indness !ormed a great counter%oise to the %rotracted %ersecution o! their go"ernor, might be added a long list o! others whose endea"ours were used to so!ten my ca%ti"ityD and who sought to alle"iate the chagrin which %erha%s the strongest minds cannot but sometimes !eel in the course o! years, when re!lecting on their !ar&distant !amilies and !riends, on their %ros%ects in li!e inde!initely sus%ended, and their ho%es o! liberty and justice !ollowed by continual disa%%ointmentD and to the honour o! the inhabitants in general be it s%o en, that many who new no more than my !ormer em%loyment and my mis!ortunes, sought to render me ser"ice by such ways as seemed o%en to them# The long continuation and notorious injustice o! my im%risonment had raised a sensation more strong and widely eBtended than 6 could belie"e, be!ore arri"ing at Port 'ouis to embar in the cartelD when the number o! %ersons who sought to be introduced, !or the %ur%ose o! o!!ering their !elicitations u%on this uneB%ected e"ent, con!irmed what had been be!ore said by my !riendsD and a!!orded a satis!actory %roo! that e"en arbitrary %ower, animated by strong national %rejudice, though it may turn aside or de%ress !or a time, cannot yet eBtinguish in a %eo%le the broad %rinci%les o! justice and humanity generally %re"alent in the human heart# 5ome %art o! my desire to ascertain the moti"es which in!luenced general *e 4aen to act so contrary to the %ass%ort o! the !irst consul, and to the usages ado%ted towards "oyages o! disco"ery, may %erha%s be !elt by the readerD and he may there!ore not be dis%leased to see the leading %oints in his conduct brought into one "iew, in order to deducing there!rom some reasonable conclusion# 8n arri"ing at Mauritius a!ter the shi%wrec , and %roducing my %ass%ort and commission, the ca%tain&general accused me o! being an im%ostorD too %ossession o! the 4umberland with the charts and journals o! my "oyage, and made me a close %risoner# 8n the !ollowing day, without any %re"ious change o! conduct or o!!ering an eB%lanation, he in"ited me to his table# All other boo s and %a%ers were ta en on the !ourth day, and my im%risonment con!irmedD the alleged cause !or it being the eB%ression in my journal o! a desire to become ac@uainted with Athe %eriodical winds, the %ort, and %resent state o! the colonyA, which it was asserted were contrary to the %ass%ortD though it was not said that 6 new o! the war when the desire was eB%ressed# A!ter three months seclusion as a As%yA, 6 was admitted to join the %risoners o! war, and in twenty months to go into the interior o! the island, on A%aroleAD 6 there had liberty to range two leagues all round, and was unrestricted either !rom seeing any %erson within those limits or writing to any %art o! the world# 6t might be thought, that the most certain way o! counteracting my desire to gain in!ormation alleged to be contrary to the %ass%ort, would ha"e been Ato send me !rom the islandAD but general *e 4aen too the contrary method, and e%t me there abo"e siB years#

9is !eeling !or my situation, and desire to recei"e orders !rom the French marine minister had been more than once eB%ressed, when at the end o! three years and a hal!, he sent o!!icial in!ormation that the go"ernment granted my liberty and the restitution o! the 4umberlandD and this was accom%anied with the %romise, that 6, so soon as circumstances would %ermit, 6 should !ully enjoy the !a"our which had been granted me by 9is Majesty the /m%eror and C=ingDC yet, a!ter a delay o! A!i!teen monthsA, an a%%lication was answered by saying, Cthat ha"ing communicated to 9is /Bcellency the marine minister the moti"es which had determined him to sus%end my return to /uro%e, he could not authoriJe my de%arture be!ore ha"ing recei"ed an answer u%on the subjectDC in twenty months more, howe"er, he let me go, and declared to Mr# commissary 9o%e that it was Anot in conse@uence o! any orders !rom FranceA# Ghen !irst im%risoned in 1E,2, !or ha"ing eB%ressed a wish to learn the %resent state o! the colony, there was no sus%icion o! any %rojected attac u%on itD in 1E1,, %re%arations o! de!ence were ma ing against an attac almost immediately eB%ected, and there were !ew circumstances relating to the island in which 6 was not as well in!ormed as the generalit" o! the inhabitantsD then it was, a!ter gi"ing me the o%%ortunity o! becoming ac@uainted with the town and harbour o! Port 'ouis, that general *e 4aen su!!ered me to go away in a shi% bound to the %lace whence the attac was eB%ected, and without laying any restriction u%on my communications# 5uch are the leading characteristics o! the conduct %ursued by 9is /Bcellency general *e 4aen, and they will be admitted to be so !ar contradictory as to ma e the reconciling them with any uni!orm %rinci%le a di!!icult tas D with the aid howe"er o! "arious collateral circumstances, o! o%inions entertained by well in!ormed %eo%le, and o! !acts which trans%ired in the sha%e o! o%inions, 6 will endea"our to gi"e some insight into his %olicyD re@uesting the reader to bear in mind that much o! what is said must necessarily de%end u%on conjecture# A!ter the %eace o! Amiens, general *e 4aen went out to Pondicherry as ca%tain&general o! all the French %ossessions to the east o! the 4a%e o! Good 9o%eD he had a !ew troo%s and a number o! eBtra o!!icers, some o! whom a%%ear to ha"e been intended !or sea%oy regiments %ro%osed to be raised, and others !or the ser"ice o! the Mahrattas# The %lan o! o%erations in 6ndia was %robably eBtensi"e, but the early declaration o! war by /ngland %ut a sto% to them, and obliged 9is /Bcellency to abandon the brilliant %ros%ect o! ma ing a !igure in the annals o! the /astD he then came to Mauritius, eBclaiming against the %er!idy o! the British go"ernment, and with a strong disli e, i! not hatred to the whole nation# 6 arri"ed about three months subse@uent to this %eriod, and the day a!ter M# Barrois had been sent on board 'e Geogra%he with des%atches !or FranceD which transaction being contrary to the /nglish %ass%ort, and subjecting the shi% to ca%ture, i! nown, it was resol"ed to detain me a short time, and an embargo was laid u%on all neutral shi%s !or ten days# 6t would a%%ear that the re%ort o! the commandant at 'a 5a"anne ga"e some sus%icion o! my identity, which was eagerly ado%ted as a cause o! detentionD 6 was there!ore accused at once o! im%osture, closely con!ined, and my boo s, %a%ers, and "essel seiJed# <eBt day another re%ort arri"ed !rom 'a 5a"anne, that o! major *unien"illeD !rom which, and the eBamination 6 had just undergone, it a%%eared that the accusation o! im%osture was untenableD an in"itation to go to the general's table was then sent me, no sus%icion being entertained that this condescension to an /nglishman, and to an o!!icer o! in!erior ran , might not be

thought an e@ui"alent !or what had %assed# My re!usal o! the intended honour until set at liberty, so much eBas%erated the ca%tain&general that he determined to ma e me re%ent itD and a wish to be ac@uainted with the %resent state o! Mauritius being !ound in my journal, it was !iBed u%on as a %reteBt !or detaining me until orders should arri"e !rom France, by which an im%risonment o! at least twel"e months was insured# The !irst moti"e !or my detention there!ore arose !rom the in!raction %re"iously made o! the /nglish %ass%ort, by sending des%atches in 'e Geogra%heD and the %robable cause o! its being %rolonged beyond what seems to ha"e been originally intended, was to %unish me !or re!using the in"itation to dinner# The marine minister's letter admits little doubt that general *e 4aen new, on the return o! his brother&in&law in :anuary 1E,M, that the council o! state at Paris, though a%%ro"ing o! his conduct, %ro%osed granting my liberty and the restitution o! the 4umberlandD and he must ha"e eB%ected by e"ery "essel to recei"e orders to that e!!ectD but %unishment had not yet %roduced a su!!icient degree o! humiliation to ma e him eBecute such an order willingly# Ghen the eBchange was made with commodore 8sborn in the !ollowing August, it became con"enient to let me @uit the Garden Prison, in order to ta e away the sentinelsD ca%tain Bergeret also, who as a %risoner in 6ndia had been treated with distinction, strongly %ressed my going into the countryD these circumstances alone might %ossibly ha"e induced the ca%tain&general to ta e the %arole o! one who had been detained as a s%yD but his subse@uent conduct lea"es a strong sus%icion that he %ro%osed to ma e the %ortion o! liberty, thus granted as a !a"our, subser"ient to e"ading the eB%ected order !rom France, should such a measure be then desirable# At length the order arri"ed, and three years and a hal! o! detention had not %roduced any "ery sensible e!!ect on his %risonerD the eBecution o! it was there!ore sus%ended, until another re!erence should be made to the go"ernment and an answer returned# Ghat was the subject o! this re!erence could not be nown, but there eBisted in the island only one conjectureD that !rom ha"ing had such a degree o! liberty during near two years, 6 had ac@uired a nowledge o! the colony which made it unsa!e to %ermit my de%arture# /Btensi"e wars were at this time carrying on in /uro%e, the French arms were "ictorious, and general *e 4aen saw his !ormer com%anions becoming counts, du es, and marshals o! the em%ire, whilst he remained an untitled general o! di"isionD he and his o!!icers, as one o! them told me, then !elt themsel"es little better circumstanced than mysel!&&than %risoners in an almost !orgotten s%ec o! the globe, with their %romotion sus%ended# )umours o! a %remeditated attac at length reached the island, which it was said the ca%tain&general heard with %leasureD and it was attributed to the %ros%ect o! ma ing military le"ies on the inhabitants, and increasing his authority by the %roclamation o! martial lawD but i! 6 mista e not, the general's %leasure arose !rom more eBtended "iews and a more %ermanent source# 6! the island were attac ed and he could re%ulse the /nglish !orces, distinction would !ollowD i! unsuccess!ul, a ca%itulation would restore him to France and the career o! ad"ancement# An attac was there!ore desirableD and as the ca%tain&general %robably imagined that an o!!icer who had been siB years a %risoner, and whose liberty had been so o!ten re@uested by the di!!erent authorities in 6ndia, would not only be anBious to !orward it with all his might, but that his re%resentations would be attended to, the %reteBts be!ore alleged !or my im%risonment and the answer !rom France were wa"edD and a!ter %assing siB wee s in the town o! Port 'ouis and !i"e on board a shi% in the harbour, !rom which 6 had be!ore been debarred, he su!!ered

me to de%art in a cartel bound to the %lace where the attac was %ublicly said to be in meditation# This is the sole moti"e which, u%on a re"iew o! the general's conduct, 6 can assign !or being set at liberty so uneB%ectedly, and without any restriction u%on my communicationsD and i! such a result to an attac u%on Mauritius were !oreseen by the %resent count *e 4aen, ca%tain&general o! 4atalonia, e"ents ha"e %ro"ed that he was no mean calculator# But %erha%s this, as well as the %receding conjectures on his moti"es may be erroneousD i! so, %ossibly the count himsel!, or some one on the %art o! the French go"ernment may gi"e a more correct statement&&one which may not only reconcile the !acts here brought together, but eB%lain many lesser incidents which ha"e been omitted !rom !ear o! tiring the %atience o! the reader# .4AP/ 8F G88* 98P/#3 6 thought it a ha%%y concurrence o! circumstances, that on the same day we @uitted Port 'ouis in the cartel, the arri"al o! a !rigate !rom 6ndia should re@uire commodore )owley to des%atch the 8tter to the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e# 4a%tain Tom inson too his de%arture on the 1-th at nine in the e"ening, !rom 4a%e Brabant, with a !resh trade wind and s@ually weatherD at noon neBt day the island Bourbon was in sight, and the brea ers on the south&east end distinguishable !rom the dec D but thic clouds obscured all the hills# The winds !rom south&east and north&east carried us to the latitude 2K deg# and longitude -I deg#D they were a!terwards "ariable, and sometimes !oul !or days together, and we did not ma e the coast o! A!rica until the 2rd o! :uly .:;'$ 1E1,3# Being then in latitude 2- deg# M2' and longitude 2M1L2 deg#, the hills were descried at the distance o! twenty leagues to the northwardD and the water being remar ably smooth, the lead was ho"e, but no bottom !ound at 2,, !athoms# A continuance o! western winds obliged us to wor along the greater %art o! the coast, and 4a%e Agulhas was not seen be!ore the 1,thD we then had a strong breeJe at 5# /#, and 4a%e 9angli% being distinguished at dus , ca%tain Tom inson steered u% False Bay, and anchored at ele"en at night in 22 !athoms, sandy bottom# 6n this %assage o! twenty&siB days !rom Mauritius, the error in dead rec oning amounted to 1 deg# 1E' south and 2 deg# 21' west, which might be reasonably attributed to the current# 8n the 11th we ran into 5imon's Bay, and ca%tain Tom inson set o!! immediately !or 4a%e Town with his des%atches to "ice&admiral Bertie and 9is /Bcellency the earl o! 4aledonD he too also a letter !rom me to the admiral, ma ing a%%lication, con!ormably to my instructions, !or the earliest %assage to /nglandD and re@uesting, i! any circumstance should %lace general *e 4aen within his %ower, that he would be %leased to demand my journal !rom him, and cause it to be transmitted to the Admiralty# 6 went on shore neBt morning and waited u%on colonel sir /dward Butler, the commanding o!!icer at 5imon's TownD and learning that an 6ndia %ac et had %ut into Table Bay, on her way to /ngland, made %re%aration !or going o"er on the !ollowing day# At noon, howe"er, a telegra%hic signal eB%ressed the admiral's desire to see me immediatelyD and as the %ac et was eB%ected to sto% only a short time, 6 ho%ed it was !or the %ur%ose o! embar ing in her, and hastened o"er with horses and a dragoon guide !urnished by the commandantD but to my morti!ication, the %ac et was standing out o! Table Bay at the time 6 alighted at the admiral's door, and no other o%%ortunity !or /ngland %resented itsel! !or more than siB wee s a!terward# *uring the tedious time o! waiting at 4a%e Town !or a %assage, 6 recei"ed much %olite attention !rom 9is /Bcellency the earl o! 4aledon, and Mr# AleBander, secretary to the colonyD as also !rom the 9on# general Grey,

commander o! the !orces, commissioner 5hield o! the na"y, and se"eral other ci"il and military o!!icers o! the 4a%e establishment# 6 made little eBcursions to 4onstantia and in the neighbourhood o! the townD but !eared to go into the interior o! the country lest an o%%ortunity, such as that which the 6ndia %ac et had %resented, might be lost# Towards the latter end o! August .A;G;5T 1E1,3, ca%tain Par inson o! the army and lieutenant )obb o! the na"y arri"ed !rom commodore )owley's s@uadron, with intelligence o! the island Bourbon being ca%turedD and a cutter being ordered to con"ey them to /ngland, 6 re@uested o! the admiral and obtained a %assage in her# 5/PT/MB/) 1E1, Ge sailed !rom 5imon's Bay on the 2Eth August, in the 8lym%ia, commanded by lieutenant 9enry TaylorD and a!ter a %assage o! !ourteen days, anchored in 5t# 9elena road on the a!ternoon o! 5e%tember 11D and ha"ing obtained water and a !ew su%%lies !rom the town, sailed again the same night# 8n the 1+th, %assed close to the north side o! Ascension, in the ho%e o! %rocuring a turtle should any "essel be lying thereD but seeing none, steered onward and crossed the 'ine on the 1Ith, in longitude 1I1L2 deg# west# The trade wind shi!ted to the 5# G# in latitude M deg# north, and continued to blow until we had reached abreast o! the 4a%e&Verde 6slands, as it had done at the same time o! year in 1E,1# At my recommendation lieutenant Taylor did not run so !ar west as shi%s usually do in returning to /ngland, but %assed the 4a%e&Verdes not !urther distant than siBty leaguesD we there met the north&east trade, and on the 2Ith Mr# Taylor too the brig Atalante !rom Mauritius# .6< /<G'A<*3 84T8B/) 1E1, 8n reaching the latitude 222L- deg# north and longitude 22 deg# west, the north&east trade "eered to east and south&eastward, which enabled us to ma e some eastingD and being succeeded by north&west winds, we %assed within the AJores, and too a !resh de%arture !rom 5t# Mary's on the 1Mth o! 8ctober# 5oundings in KM !athoms were obtained on the 21st, at the entrance o! the /nglish 4hannelD but it then blew a gale o! wind !rom the westward, and obliged us to lie to on this, as it did on the !ollowing nightD and it was greatly !eared that the cutter would be dri"en on the coast o! France, near the 4as et roc s# 6n the morning o! the 22rd, the wind being more moderate, we made sail to the northward, and got sight o! the Bill o! PortlandD and at !i"e in the e"ening came to an anchor in 5tudland Bay, o!! the entrance o! Pool 9arbour, a!ter a run !rom 5t# 9elena o! siB wee sD which in an indi!!erent sailing "essel, "ery lea y, and eBcessi"ely ill !ound, must be considered an eBcellent %assage# 4a%tain Par inson and lieutenant )obb went o!! the same night with their des%atchesD and neBt morning we ran through the <eedles and came to at 5%ithead, where the %riJe brig, !rom which we had been long se%arated, had just be!ore dro%%ed her anchor# 6 went on shore to wait u%on admiral sir )oger 4urtis, and the same e"ening set o!! !or 'ondonD ha"ing been absent !rom /ngland nine years and three months, and nearly !our years and a hal! without intelligence !rom any %art o! my conneBions# The account o! the 6n"estigator's "oyage, and o! the e"ents resulting !rom it is concludedD but there is one or two circumstances which the na"al reader may %robably desire to see !urther eB%lained#

A regulation ado%ted at the Admiralty !orbids any o!!icer to be %romoted whilst a %risoner, u%on the %rinci%le a%%arently, that o!!icers in that situation ha"e almost always to undergo a court martial, which cannot be done until they are set at liberty# My case was made subject to this regulation, although it re@uired no court martialD and was moreo"er so di!!erent to that o! %risoners in general, that nothing similar %erha%s e"er occurred# 6n conse@uence o! my French %ass%ort, not only was the %ossibility o! rea%ing any ad"antage !rom the war done away, but the liberation on %arole or by eBchange, granted to all others in Mauritius, was re!used !or years, the %ass%ort remo"ing me !rom the class o! %risoners o! warD yet one o! the greatest hardshi%s to o!!icers o! a state o! war!are was at the same time a%%lied to me in /ngland, and continued throughout this %rotracted detention# 5o soon as it was nown that 6 had been released, and was arri"ed at the 4a%e o! Good 9o%e, a commission !or %ost ran was issuedD and on my re%resentations to the )ight 9on# 4harles $or e, !irst lord commissioner o! the Admiralty, by whom 6 had the honour to be recei"ed with the condescension and !eeling natural to his character, he was %leased to direct that it should ta e date as near to that o! general *e 4aen's %ermission to @uit Mauritius, as the %atent which constituted the eBisting Board o! Admiralty would allow# A more retros%ecti"e date could be gi"en to it only by an order o! the =ing in councilD unha%%ily 9is Majesty was then inca%able o! eBercising his royal !unctionsD and when the )egency was established, my %ro%osed %etition did not meet with that o!!icial encouragement which was necessary to obtain success# 6t was candidly ac nowledged, that my ser"ices in the 6n"estigator would ha"e been deemed a su!!icient title to ad"ancement in 1E,-, had 6 then arri"ed in /ngland and the Admiralty been com%osed o! the same membersD but no re%resentation could o"ercome the reluctance to admitting an eBce%tion to the established ruleD thus the injustice o! the French go"ernor o! Mauritius, besides all its other conse@uences, was attended with the loss o! siB years %ost ran in 9is Majesty's na"al ser"ice# 8ne o! my !irst cares was to see the means o! relie"ing some relations o! my Mauritius !riends, %risoners o! war in /nglandD and in a !ew months, through the indulgence o! the Admiralty and o! the earl o! 'i"er%ool, secretary o! state !or the colonies, 6 had the grati!ication o! sending !i"e young men bac to the island, to !amilies who had shown indness to /nglish %risoners# The Board o! Admiralty was %leased to countenance the %ublication o! the 6n"estigator's "oyage by %ro"iding !or the charts and embellishmentsD and a strong re%resentation was made by its directions to the French go"ernment, u%on the subjects o! my detained journal, the schooner 4umberland, and the %arole eBacted on @uitting Mauritius# A release !rom the %arole was transmitted in A%ril 1E12, a!ter three a%%licationsD but u%on the other %oints it was answered, that Cthe "essel o! ca%tain Flinders was at the 6sle o! France at the ca%itulation o! that colony, and returned in conse@uence to the %ower o! the /nglish go"ernment# Gith res%ect to the journal o! that na"igator, as it did not ma e %art o! the %a%ers brought !rom the 6sle o! France by the %re!ect o! that colony, a demand has been made !or it to the ca%tain&general *e 4aen, who is with the army# 6n de!ault o! an answer he will be again written to, and so soon as it shall be remitted, my !irst object will be to send it#C The 4umberland had been seiJed in 1E,2, and the ca%itulation was made in 1E1,D in the inter"al, both "essel and stores, i! not used, would be in great %art rottenD but 6 saw the 4umberland em%loyed in the French ser"ice, and belie"e that the stores were also# General *e 4aen, it a%%eared, still e%t the log boo in his own handsD although, i!

considered to be %ri"ate %ro%erty, it was undoubtedly mine, and i! as a %ublic document it ought to ha"e been gi"en u% at the ca%itulation, or at least to ha"e been de%osited in the o!!ice o! the marine minister# But the ca%tain&general had %robably his reasons !or not wishing e"en the minister to see itD and u% to this time, the commencement o! 1E1-, he has so !ar %erse"ered against both %ublic and %ri"ate a%%lications, that neither the original nor a co%y has been obtained# APP/<*6H 6# A448;<T 8F T9/ 8B5/)VAT68<5 B$ G9649 T9/ '8<G6T;*/5 8F P'A4/5 8< T9/ /A5T A<* <8)T9 48A5T5 8F T/))A A;5T)A'65 9AV/ B//< 5/TT'/*# 6n the A%%endiB to Vol# 6# a statement was made o! the circumstances under which the obser"ations !or settling the longitudes o! %laces on the 5outh 4oast were ta enD as also o! the method used in the calculations, and the corrections a%%lied more than what is usual in the common %ractice at sea# That statement is e@ually a%%licable to the !ollowing tables !or the /ast and <orth 4oasts, and the eB%lanation o! their di!!erent columns is the sameD a re!erence there!ore to the !ormer A%%endiB will render unnecessary any !urther remar on these heads# The !irst obser"ations on the /ast 4oast were ta en at Port :ac son, and the results would naturally !orm the !irst table o! this A%%endiBD but these obser"ations being so intimately connected with those on the 5outh 4oast that the time ee%ers could not recei"e their !inal corrections without them, the Port&:ac son table became an indis%ensable conclusion to the !ormer seriesD and it is thought unnecessary to re%eat it in this %lace# The !ollowing tables, set out in the boo , are not re%roduced in this teBt "ersion o! AA Voyage to Terra AustralisA&&re!er to the AhtmlA "ersion, a"ailable !rom htt%(LLgutenberg#net# Table 6# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter 6#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F T9/ A<498)AG/ 6< =/PP/' BA$# Table 66# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter 666#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F ;PP/) 9/A*, 6< B)8A* 58;<*# Table 666# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter V6#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F 5G//)5' 65'A<*, G;'P9 8F 4A)P/<TA)6A# Table 6V# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter V66? '8<G6T;*/ 8F 8B5/)VAT68< 65'A<*, 56) /# P/''/G'5 G)8;P# Table V# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter V666#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F F6<49'5 65'A<*, 6< <# G# BA$&&G)88T/ /$'A<*T# Table V6# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter V666#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F T9/ T/<T5, 6< 4A'/*8< BA$# Table V66# >)e!erence !rom B88= 66 4ha%ter 6H#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F T9/ A<498)AG/ 6< 48/PA<G BA$, T6M8)# Table V666# >)e!erence !rom B88= 666# 4ha%ter 66#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F G)/4=&)//F BA<=, '$6<G 8FF T9/ /A5T 48A5T#

Table 6H# >)e!erence !rom B88= 666# 4ha%ter V#? '8<G6T;*/ 8F T9/ GA)*/< P)658<, 1' <# /# F)8M P8)T '8;65&&MA;)6T6;5# APP/<*6H 66 8< T9/ /))8)5 8F T9/ 48MPA55 A)656<G F)8M ATT)A4T68<5 G6T96< T9/ 596P, A<* 8T9/)5 F)8M T9/ MAG</T65M 8F 'A<*D G6T9 P)/4A;T68<5 F8) 8BV6AT6<G T9/6) /FF/4T5 6< MA)6</ 5;)V/$6<G# .<ot included in this eboo #3 APP/<*6H 666 G/</)A' )/MA)=5, G/8G)AP964A' A<* 5$5T/MAT64A', 8< T9/ B8TA<$ 8F T/))A A;5T)A'65# B$ )8B/)T B)8G<, F# )# 5# A4A*# )/G# 546/<T# B/)8'6<# 48))/5P#, <AT;)A'65T T8 T9/ V8$AG/# A '65T 8F P'A<T5 <AT6V/ B8T9 8F T/))A A;5T)A'65 A<* 8F /;)8P/# */54)6PT68< 8F P'A<T5 F6G;)/* 6< T9/ AT'A5# .<ot included in this eboo #3

/<* 8F V8';M/ 66

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