Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

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Anti-hairloss and
Hair growth promoter
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Hair growth cycle
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Hair cycle of head hair shaft
Stage of the hair cycle
Anagen : the growing phase
Catagen: the intermediate phase
Telogen : the shedding phase
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Hair growth cycle
Exp. Gerontol. 2002;37:981-90.
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Hair follicle gradually terminated
Terminal hair changes to vellus hair
Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 6-8 : 1 Normal
Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 0.1-3.9 : 1 Bald
Hair Loss
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Causes of hair loss
Reduction in hair follicle function due to
male hormones
Reduction in metabolic functions of hair
follicles and hair bulbs
Reduction in scalp physiological functions
Local impairment of circulation due to
tension in the scalp
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 2
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Physical stress
Emotional stress
Diet considerations
Hormonal causes
Endocrinopathy
Oral medications:
Blood thinning agents
Retinoids
Antihypertensive agents
Miscellaneous
Hair Loss
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Overall causes
Androgen
Genetic
Age
Testosterone 5-Dihydrotestosterone
Androgenic alopecia
9 Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283. 10 Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283.
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J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2001;45(suppl):S70-80.
Regions of scalp potentially involved in pattern hair loss
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A. Regional scalp
hair density scale
B. Regional scalp
zones
F : Frontal
M : Mid
T : Temporal
V : Vertex
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62.
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 3
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Hair loss patterns in male
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.
1985;13:185-92.
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Male Pattern Diffuse Frontal Accentuation
(Hamilton/Norwood) (Ludwig) (Olsen)
Hair loss patterns in female
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62.
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Graduation of hair loss in Ludwig pattern
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62.
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Graduation of hair loss in frontal accentuation pattern
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62.
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Savin patterns of hair loss
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1999;40:106-9.
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Big head? Bald head?
Med. Hypo. 2009; 72: 23-28.
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 4
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Hair care products
Hair cleansing products
Hair growth promoters
Hair grooming cosmetics
Hair waving and straightening products
Hair coloring products
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Basic ingredient and function
Detergent : removes dirt, styling products, sebum
and skin scale from hair and scalp
Foaming agent: allows shampoo to foam
Conditioner : soften and smoothen hair after
sebum removal
Thickener : thicken shampoo
Opacifier : makes shampoo opaque
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Basic ingredient and function
Sequestering agent : prevent soap scum from
forming on hair and scalp in hard water
pH adjusters or neutralizer : minimize hair
damage from base
Fragrance : give acceptable smell
Preservative : prevent microbial and fungal
contaminations
Specialty additive : treatment ingredient or
marketing aid to impart other benefit to shampoo
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Basic shampoo categories
Normal hair shampoo
Dry hair shampoo
Damaged hair shampoo
Oily hair shampoo
Everyday shampoo
Deep cleaning shampoo
Baby shampoo
Medicated shampoo
Conditioning shampoo
Hair dyeing shampoo
Ethnic shampoo
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Active ingredients : Hair loss
Finasteride : 5-reductase Type II inhibitor
Minoxidil : vasodilator (long lasting anagen)
Dutasteride or GI198745 : 5-reductase inhibitor
Iamin or prezatide copper : 5-reductase inhibitor
Folligen or copper chloride : 5-reductase inhibitor
Zinc : hair growth, 5-reductase Type I inhibitor
Polysorbate 80 : hair growing improvement
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MK-386 or -dimethyl-4-aza-5-cholestan-3-
one: 5-reductase inhibitor
WO9704002 : 5-reductase inhibitor
FCE28260 : 5-reductase inhibitor
FCE26073 or Turosteride : 5-reductase
Type II inhibitor
Ketoconazole : Androgenetic blocker
Active ingredients : Hair loss
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 5
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Canrenone 2%
Spironolactone 3%
Dexamethasone
Prednisone
Cyclosporin A
Cyproterone acetate
Flutamide
Drospirenone
Bromocriptine
Active ingredients : Hair loss
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Amino acids : hair growth and healthy, 5-
reductase inhibitor
Biotin : hair nutrient and hair growth
Folic acid : hair nutrient and hair growth
Procyanidin B3 : hair thickener
Azelaic acid : strong DHT inhibitor
Ferritin
B7, B12
Active ingredients : Hair loss
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Phytoestrogens
Isoflavone
Daizein
Genistein
Glycitein
Lignans
Enterodiol
Enterlactone
Bisnapthaquinone
Capsaicin
(-)-epoglaaocatechin-3-gallate
Soymethide-4
Active ingredients : Hair loss
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5-reductase inhibitor
Hair regrowth promoter
Essential fatty acid
-linolenic acid, -linolenic acid, palmitoleic
acid, oleic acid, myristoleic acid
palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic
acid
Evening primrose oil
Emu oil
-sitosterol
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Saw palmetto : Serenoa repens
- DHT formation inhibitor
- 5-reductase inhibitor
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Pygeum : Pygeum africanum
- Androgenic blocker
- 5-reductase inhibitor
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 6
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Holy basil : Ocimum sanctum
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Chillies
- Capsaicin
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Fenugreek : Trigonella foenum
- Multivitamin B
- Hair root strengthen
- DHT formation inhibitor
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False daisy: Eclipta alba
- Hair growth promoter
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False daisy: Eclipta alba
87.5 480.4 41.2 66 7.3 3.2 mg E.alba
50 417.4 35.9 39 8.4 1.6 mg E.alba
87.5 253.25 6.6 73 8.2 2% minoxidil
87.5 160.2 10 69 3.9 1%minoxidil
Anagen induction, % Skin thickness, m Folicle count Treatment
J. Ethanopharmacol. 2009. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2009.05.023
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Fennel : Foeniculum vulgare
- Antiinflammatory
- Androgenic blocker
- 5-reductase inhibitor
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 7
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Nettle : Urtica dioica
- Androgenic blocker
- DHT blocker
- 5-reductase inhibitor
- Blood circulator
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Bayberry : Myrica rubra
- 5-reductase inhibitor
- Hair growth stimulant
- Anti hair loss
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Arborvitae : Thuja
- 5-reductase
Type II inhibitor
- sebum reduction
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Arborvitae : Thuja
0.34 M
Finasteride
2.6 g/ml
T. occidentalis
5.55 g/ml (19.93 M)
-Linolenic acid
31.55 g/ml (112.50 M)
Linoleic acid
5-reductase Type II inhibitor, IC
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Compounds
J. Dermatol. Sci. 2003; 31: 91-98.
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Gourds
- 5-reductase inhibitor
- Anti hair loss
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Avocado : Persea americana
- 5-reductase Type I inhibitor
- Sebum secretion reduction
- Antidandruff
- Antiitching
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 8
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Hop : Humulus lupulus
- 5-reductase inhibitor
- Hair growth stimulant
- Scalp tonics
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Burdock : Arctium lappa
- Scalp tonics
- Antidandruff
- Antiitching
- Anti hair loss
- Hair sheening
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Pumpkin
- 5-reductase inhibitor
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Grape seeds
- proanthocyanidins
- in vitro hair follicle proliferation promotion
- in vivo Telogen converts to Anagen
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Willow
- Antiinflammatory
- 5-reductase inhibitor
- Hair loss treatment
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Black cohosh : Cimicifuga racemosa
- 5-reductase inhibitor
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 9
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Soy bean Flax seed
- 5-reductase inhibitor
- Grey hair treatment
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Ginkgo : Ginkgo biloba
- Hair regrowth promoter
- Astringent
- Epidermis growth stimulant
- Antiinflammatory
- Radical scavenger
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Tea : Camellia sinensis
- Antioxidant
- Androgenic blocker
-5-reductase inhibitor
-Similar activity with
saw palmetto
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Sophora : Sophora flavescens
- 5-reductase Type II
inhibitor
- Anagen elongation
activity
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Licorice : Glycyrrhiza glabra
- DHT formation inhibitor
- Hair loss treatment
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Breadfruit: Artocarpus incisus
5-reductase Type II inhibitor
- Chlorophorin IC
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37 M
- Artocarpin IC
50
85 M
Melanin biosynthesis inhibition
Planta Medica 2000; 66: 16-19.
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 10
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Henna : Lawsonia inermis Linn.
Hair growth accelerator -
Leaf extracts have mild
antiinflammatory and antiallergic action
and analgesic effect
Impart dark red shades :
Lawsone
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Aloe : Aloe vera L.
- Traditionally for hair loss
- Improve hair growth
following alopecia
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Rhinacanthus nasutus Kurz.
- Hair loss treatment
- Grey hair treatment
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Butterfly pea : Clitoria ternatea
- Antiinflammatory
- Antioxidant
- Hair growth promoter
- Grey hair recover
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Citrus hystrix DC.
- Wound healing
- Antidandruff
- Soft & smooth hair
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Citrus grandis
Skin & scalp tonic
Exfoliation refresh
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 11
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Sapindus rarak A. DC.
Wound healing
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Acacia concinna DC.
- Cleansing
- Shining
- Antidandruff
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Sesame : Sesamum indicum Linn.
- Skin & scalp soother
- Antioxidant
- Natural moisturizer
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Centella asiatica (L.) Urb.
Antioxidant
Wound healing
Blood circulation
Scalp conditioning
Energy stimulant
Detergent
Anti hair loss
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Coconut : Cocos nucifera Linn.
- Saturated fatty acid
- Lauric acid
- Myristic acid
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Cymbopogon citratus Stapf
- Oily and grease hair treatment
- Antidandruff
- Antiseptic
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 12
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Garlic : Allium sativum L.
- Dandruff control
- Antiseptic
- Tonic
- Antioxidant
- Antiinflammatory
- Antibacterial
- Antifungal
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Ginger : Zingiber officinale Roscoe
- Antiinflammatory
- Blood circulation stimulant
- Muscle relaxation
- Hair loss treatment
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Ginseng : Panax ginseng
- Skin & scalp soften
- Aniinflammaroty
- Blood circulation
- Cell regeneration
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Rice: Oryza sativa
- Skin & scalp conditioning
- Moisturizer
- Emollient
- Antioxidant
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Almond: Prunus amygdalus
- Skin conditioning
- Moisturizer
- Sun protect
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Sage : Salvia officinalis L.
- Hair conditioning
- Maintain the sheen of dark curly hair
- Strengthen and stimulate hair growth
- Antidandruff
- Anti hair loss
- Greasy hair treatment
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 13
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Rosemary : Rosmarinus officinalis Linn.
- Stimulate hair growth
- Antioxidant
- Greasy hair conditioner
- Gives body and sheen to hair
- Daily antidandruff treatment
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Thyme :Thymus vulgaris L.
- Inhibit dandruff
- A scalp rub to prevent hair falling out
- Promote natural hair health
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Swertia japonica Makino
- abdominal pain
- skin infection
- blood circulation
- hair growth stimulant
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- Eczema
- Acne
- Hair loss
- Scalp itching
- Scalp peeling
- Dandruff
- Emollient
- Skin disorder treatment: crack, abrasion, frostbite, chaps
- Sun burn treatment
- Nappy rashes
English Walnut Juglans regia L.
Black walnut : Juglan nigra
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Honey
- Hair growth promoter
- Skin & scalp conditioning
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Propolis
- Antifungal
- Antibacterial
- Similar activity with aloe
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 14
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14 Fruit juices Citrus hystrix
79 Leaves Ixora maerothyra
75 Leaves Artocarpus altilis
53 Leaves Mitragyna hirsuta
51 Leaves Piper betle
47 Fruits Passiflora foetida
47 Leaves Eucalyptus sp.
29 Flowers Clitoria ternatea
25 Fruit peels Citrus hystrix
25 Leaves Leucaena leucocephala
23 Leaves Flagellaria indica
21 Fruits Acacia concinna
5 Leaves Albizia myriophylla
0 Leaves Tamarindus indica
0 Leaves Alpinia galanga
5-reductase inhibitory activity, % Parts Plants
J. Wood Sci. 2000; 46: 385-389 Conc. 200 g/ml
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Provillus
Hair loss treatment example products
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Hair loss treatment example products
- Kigelia africana
- Salvia sclarea
- Gingko biloba
- Cinnamomum zeylanicum
- Panax ginseng
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- Niacin
- Biotin
- Plant Phytosterols
- Saw Palmetto Berry
- Macadameia Nut oil
- Borage Oil
- Evening Primrose oil
- Pygeum africana
- Green tea extract
Hair loss treatment example products
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Minoxidil 5% w/v for men
Minoxidil 2% for women
Hair loss treatment example products
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- Linolenic acid
- Linoleic Acid
- Oleic Acid
- Azaleic acid
- Vitamin B6
- Zinc
- Saw Palmetto Extract
- -Sitosterol
- Procyanidin Oligomers
Hair loss treatment example products
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 15
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- Hops extract
- Rosemary extract
- Swertia extract
- Si compounds
- Panthenol
Hair loss treatment example products
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- Saw palmetto
- zinc
- nettles
- pumpkin seed extract
Hair loss treatment example products
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Hair loss treatment example products
- Soy bean
- Panax ginseng
- Castanea sativa
- Arinca montana
- Hedera helix
- Geranium maculatum
- Inositol, Panthenol
- Cystine, Cysteine, Methionine
- Biotin
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Hair loss treatment example products
- Swertia extract
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Hair loss treatment example products
- Biotin
- Zinc PCA
- Panax ginseng, Ginkgo biloba, Swertia
japonica, Palmaria palmata, Soy bean germ,
Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts
- Simmondsia chinensis Oil,
- Benzyl Nicotinate, Inositol, L-Cystine,
Cysteine, Choline, Niacin, Methionine
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Hair loss treatment example products
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 16
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Mice
hair length
hair growth area
Rabbits
hair length and weight
Hamsters
sebaceous glands size (in vivo)
5-reductase inhibition (in vitro)
DHT receptor inhibition (in vitro)
Monkeys
hair growth at head
Animals
Hair growth promoters evaluations
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Hair growth promoters evaluations
hair roots culture
hair root cells culture
Tissue culture
photographic evaluation
trichogram method
5-reductase inhibition
hair wash test
blood flow measurement
Humans
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Hair growth promoters evaluations : Mice
30 days application of Asiasari radix extract 1% solution in 40% EtOH
J. Dermsci. 2005; 38:89-97.
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Hair Loss / Hair Growth
Principle
- Anti-hair loss efficacy
- Anti-hair regrowth products
- Videomicroscope visualizations
Protocol design
- Long term studies: M0-M1-M2
- Up to M0-M3-M6 studies
- Female and male volunteers
- No age criteria
Biometrological Test
Videotrichogram

D0 D2
Illustrations :
the telogenous hairs
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Selected references
Lee OS, Kang HH, Han SH. 1997. Oriental herbs in cosmetics. Cosmet
Toiletries 112:57-64.
Kameyama S. 1995. Application and consideration of medicinal plants for
hair care products. Frag J 23:28-34.
Takahashi T, Kamiya T, Yokoo Y. 1998. Proanthocyanidins from grape
seeds promote proliferation of mouse hair follicle cells in vitro and convert
hair cycle in vivo. Acta Derm Venerol 78:428-432.
Kim SH, Jeong KS, Ryu SY, Kim TH. 1998. Panax ginseng prevents apoptosis
in hair follicles and accelerates recovery of hair medullary cells in
irradiated mice. In vivo 12:219-222.
Camacho-Martnez FM. 2009. Hair loss in women. Semi. Cutan. Med. Surg.
28:19-32.
Yonenaga M. 2001. Henna leaf extracts and makeup materials containing
henna. Jpn Kokai Tokkyo Koho Patent JP2001335496.
Bruneton J. 1999. Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry, Medicinal Plants.
Lavoisier Publishing: Paris.
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