Chapter 7 - Product Development

Development

Design Development

Fabric Selection
Production

Fabric Recipe FIS, FC & Lab Dip Round Tech Pack First Bulk Lot, Fabric Report

Pre Proto Sample & Sample Exit

Trims

GPT, FPT, LR

Pre Production Sample & GPT

Generic T&A

Size Sets

First Fit Comments

Pilot Run

Prototype Approval

Interim Inspection

Qty based T&A

Full Inspection

Shipment

Step 1
Design Development As much as fashion can seem a navel gazing industry, in truth it is one that spends more time looking forward than down (or even back). Being one step ahead of the curve is the professional obligation of nearly every member of the fashion pack. The obsession with trend forecasting is thus one born out of necessity. One looks forward for the bottom line rather than any need to be hip. That is merely ancillary benefit or depending on your perspective the occasional curse. Thus with the stakes so high there are many excellent sources for keeping informed of the moods and emotions that will come to define a season still a full year away. Designers work and try to predict the trend which is likely to come after a year. Design development includes simultaneous contribution of three teams. The design teams of Ann Taylor, Triburg and the vendor.

a) Ann Taylor Design Team The designing team of Ann Taylor always try to create a new style or product, which is different from the competition. Their motto is to create designs which are likely to be in trend in the near future and in order to know this the team does an extensive research as well as tries to forecast fashion trends. Designers attend international fashion weeks and other fashion events in order to know the latest trends and the fabrics in the market. Designers visit international shows like Premiere Vision which is one of the most famous fabric shows, other things which designers look are future trends and colours. After buyer decides about what kind of style it needs, buyer asks us to develop it by sending an inspiration for it. This could be some pictures or a web page link so that the team sitting in Triburg understands what kind of product is required to be developed. Such design ideas given by the buyer are called as Mockup Requests. Mock up requests are forwarded to the vendor so as to get that style developed.

A mock up request sent by New York office

Above picture shows the kind of smocking buyer wants in the new design.

b) Triburg Design Team

Triburg has dedicated design teams for each of its buyers. Designers follow a similar process of designing where in a team of designers visit and analyse the trends showcased in major fashion weeks and based on this the design team finalise the concept or trend which would be followed in the coming season. This entire concept is then presented to the buyer by the design team

c) Vendor Design Team Like triburg even the vendor has in house design team which designs for the buyer and all such designs are presented to the buyer for its approval.

Step2 Fabric Selection After buyer approves the designs the fabric research starts, the aim is to look for fabrics which can meet the requirements of the buyer and different fabrics and their FIS have to be sent to the buyer for its approval. FIS is very important at this stage because it gives detailed information about the fabric. The buyer can verify that fabric is as per the requirements.

Step 3 Fabric Recipe After the fabric is selected and approved for the designs the buyer gives us the fabric recipe and order yardages.

Step 4 Tech Pack flow along with SO After fabric recipe is given by the buyer, the buyer sends the tech packs of the styles selected. These tech packs are forwarded by triburg to the concerned vendor. The allocation is done on the basis of the fabric of the style or may be because the reason that design is developed by the vendor. Tech Packs are also filed in the records of triburg. After the tech packs are received from the buyer a Sample Order is issued, which is a confirmation given to the vendor to go ahead with the development of the samples in each colour and size. The SO is issued through Zymmetry and a copy of it is sent to the vendor.

Step 5 Pre Proto Sample for Style Approval After vendor gets sample order and the tech pack, it starts with the development of the proto type which has to be sent to the buyer by a specific date. The merchants at triburg have to keep a track of these proto fits and so that they can meet the deadlines. The proto sample developed has to be approved by the buyer wherein buyer checks whether the proto sample is in accordance with the details in the tech pack. The buyer also sees how the garment looks because this is the first stage at which the designs on paper are developed in to an actual garment.

Step 6 Sample Exit The proto sample must be sent to the buyer on time, this date is referred to as sample exit date.

Step 7 Development of FPT, GPT, Generic T&A and Call Out If the sample is approved by the buyer the vendor is asked for Fabric Package Test and Garment Package Test. FPT is done for every fabric and every colour in which the garment has to be developed. Parameters used in FPT are Colour Fastness to Crocking Appearance after Steam Pressing Dimension Stability to Wash Colour Fastness to Laundering Color Fastness to Perspiration Colour Fastness to Chlorine Bleach Colour Fastness to Light

Garment Test is done on the following parameters Stretchability of the Garment seams Appearance after wash Twisting After washing

These fabric and garment tests are performed by third party certified agencies which issue the test report. These reports are then sent to the buyer by the vendor.

Step 8 Generic Time and Action Plan After Fabric and garment tests are done the vendor develops a generic Time and action plan. It is a document which defines a proper schedule of events with their respective dates and the vendor has to meet those dates. Generic TNA is developed at the time of product development when buyer asks for a time and action plan for a certain quantity of units, this request is then forwarded to the vendor. In generic time and action plan the units may change, the buyer may ask a TNA for 100K units but may place an order only for 50000 units in that case the vendor is asked to re frame the dates of the TNA according to the new order.

Call Out Call Outs refer to any issues which are faced while construction of the garment. This may relate to some problems faced by the factory in stitching the garment. These call outs are communicated to the buyer. The NYO then analysis the problem and gives the solution to the factory people. There are times when these call outs are so complicated that it is nearly impossible to remove, in that case NYO suggests alternatives which can be implemented by the vendor.

Step 9 Order Indication PD/Assortment, BOM After call outs are highlighted and communicated to NYO, the New York office sends the Bills of Materials which is also called as trim page, it is a detailed summary of what all trims will be used in the garment. Line Review The proto samples which triburg sends to the designers sitting at NYO are reviewed, line review is kind of a presentation of these proto samples by the Ann Taylor designers to their merchandising team and based on this presentation the merchandising team selects the style for which bulk order have to be confirmed. First Fit Comment The first comment is received from the NYO after the sample sent to them is checked for its fitting. If there is anything which they do not like, some defect or some changes they want to make are notified to the triburg.

These comments are sent to us along with a tech pack. This tech pack carries the changes explained by the buyer and if needed it is also has a actual photograph of someone wearing the garment. Step 10 Second set of Time and Action Plan (quantity based) A second set of TNA is made for actual quantities on order, initially a generic TNA is developed for 2 3 In Store dates and from those the NYO selects one in store date and then for that particular in store date a new TNA is developed and sent to the buyer. This TNA takes into account the quantity of units ordered.

Step 11

Pre Production Activities

Following are the activities which are performed after buyer approves the order for bulk production.

Fabric
Approved FIS FIS is approved for the bulk fabric which is purchased for the production. Fabric Commitment Sheet FC would define buyers commitment to purchase the fabric Lab dipping Round After receiving commitment, lab dips are created to check for the colour. CAFC It is also the last date by which triburg merchant has to take approval of the lab dip. 1st Bulk Lot First bulk lot is very important and is sent to the New York office for approval and after that 7 bulk lots are internally closed by the merchant team. Fabric Report Before production starts the bulk fabric has to be approved for GPT and FPT.

TRIMS BOMs The buyer sends us a detailed list of trims which have to be used in the bulk order. The vendor is then asked to source these trims and mock ups are sent to the NYO for their approval.

Trim Test Report Trims like zipper, buttons etc are then tested for their durability, color fastness etc.

Step 12

Production
Pre Production Sample A pre production sample is developed using all the actual raw materials which would be used in bulk production. A PP sample is a representation of how would a bulk production piece would like. Size Set Styles are then developed in size sets, it is reviewed by the QA department. QA checks for the pattern setting and the fitting. Pilot Run During pilot run a set of 50 pieces are made so as to set the line and see how much time does it takes to make one garment. Interim Inspections Inspections are done when the pieces are still under production, line walks are performed where the garments are checked for quality of stitching and for other quality parameters. Full Inspection: There is a policy of 100 % inspection before shipping the goods to the buyer. Vendors have personnel in their production facilities that are trained and certified by triburg to perform a 100 % quality check.

Step 13 Shipment of Goods After full inspection the goods are then delivered to the consolidator to be finally shipped to Ann Taylor distribution centre in Louisville Kentucky, USA.