Arco Climbing Guide

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coronn.com
arco
Trento
Verona
Brescia
Sal
Garda
Roverto
Mori
Riva d. Garda
Arco
Direction
Venezia
Direction
Milano
Direction
Bolzano
Arco and outlaying areas, Italy
Valle del Sarca
Stallavena
Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
N
1
2
3 4
7
5
11
10
12
14
13
9
17
18
19
20
Arco
Massone
Dro
Ceniga
Pietramurata
Sarche
Lasino
Stravino
Cavedine
Brusino
Drena
Lago di C
avedine
Nago
Mori
Besagno
Loppio
Tierno
Lago di Garda
Riva di Garda
6
1. Massone
2. Terra Promessa
3. Colodri Pareti Est, Sport Roccia and Massi di Prabi
4. Rupe Secca Est and Sud
5. Salt de la Cavra
6. Pilastri povero e Afgano
7. Red point wall
8. Muro dellAsino
9. Swing Area and Diamante
10. Belvedere
11. Marmitte dei Gigante
12. Nago
13. Passo S. Giovanni
14. Besagno
15. Mori
16. Punta Corna di Bo and Spiaggia delle Lucertole
17. Transatlantico, Camerete, Muro di Chitarra, Baule and Giardini di Nato
18. Sisyphos
19. San Siro
20. Cavedine
21. Marciaga (not on this map, location near Garda)
22. Stallavena (not on this map, location near Verona)
15
16
Torbole
8
1
P
P
P Massone
Arco
Direction
Rovereto
Direction
Trento San Martino
P
Lago di Garda
Keymap, Approach, Massone
N 45 55.736
EO 10 54.173
How to find the crag:
Drive from Arco in the direction of Trento. About 300 metres after you have passed the
bridge a road to the right is signposted MASSONE, S. MARTINO. Follow that road to
Massone. After a short tunnel turn left in the direction of FALECIA POLICROMURA and
BRAILIA-BE-DRENA . In the following T-junction, turn right. You will find the first car park
2 km after you have left Arco at your left side on this small road, and further into the olive
field you will find a small boulder crag 50 metres from the car park. Continue to the first
hairpin and you will find a second car park. To get to the last, overhanging part of this crag,
continue and pass tree hairpin bends. After about 200 metres, park on the left side, follow
the road ahead until you find a small road that turns into the wood on your left. Take that
road, take the big track down to the left to reach the crag.
Massone is a beautiful crag, easy to access and perfect for anyone, including families.
The magic big cave is impressive, for old as for children.
1.Piccola Luna 4a
2. Formica Lodovica 5a
3. Giacca gialla 5b
4. Banane fisch 5a
5. Lara Croft 5c
6. Galateria Tarifa 6a+
7. Easy Rider 6c
8. Alce volante 6a
9. Boiacca 5c
10. Giuditta 6a
11. Pesce daprile 6a
12. Mingus 6b
13. Pegasus 6a+
14. Zac 5a
15. Tac 5a
1
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
15 14
13
The crag
continue
Lago di Garda
1.1. Massone, left part
20 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.2. / 1.3. / 1.4. / 1.5. / 1.6. / 1.7. / 1.8.
1. ? 6a+
2. Fra fra 6b
3. Fur eine Hand 6a+
4. Dottor Plantier 6a
5. Zl 6a
6. Nino 6a
7. Tangram 6a+
8. La bamba 7a+
9. The mirror 6c
10. Spectrum 6b+
11. Red Point 7a+
12. Mirta del Pineto 7a+
13. Marsabit 7c
14. Stressami 7c
15. Desiree 7b
16. Loacher 7b+
17. Not normal 7a
18. Vite minori 6c
19. Let me life 7b
20. Il ladro 8a
21. C qualcuno 7b
22. Deasy 6c
23. Tis sa arc 6b+
24. Cannonau 7a
25. Crisi 7a
26. Via le man 7a
1
12
11 10 9
8 7
5
4
2
15
14
13
6
3
21
20
25
22
18,
19
16
19
24
23
See route 1.
1.3.
17
26
Lago di Garda
1.2. Massone, left part
25 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.3. / 1.4. / 1.5.
1.6. / 1.7. / 1.8.
1. Marlene 7a+
2. Greta 7a
3. Sulla pancia 7c+
4. Mantide Atea direct 6c+
5. Mantida Atea 7b+
6. I buoni cattivi 7c
7. Sangit 7a+
8. Panico sopra lorlo 7c
9. Profumo di invisible 8a
10. Soviet supremo 7b
11. Bevery Hills 7b+
12. Kabul 6b
13. I like Gorba 6c
14. Killer event 7b+
15. Action direct 6c+
16. Incantesimo 8a
17. Ricky Bike 8a
1
8
7
4,5
2
6
3
12
11
10 9
15
14
13
17
16
See route
26. TO. 1.2.
Lago di Garda
1.3. Massone, middle part
30 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.2. / 1.4. / 1.5.
1.6. / 1.7. / 1.8.
11. Over booking 6a
12. Raper 5c
1. Musetto e Big Gim 6b+ 13. Settima Luna 6c+
2. Super Golia 6c+ 14. Ektoplasma 6b
3. Heliotrop 7b 15. Odio la polvere 6b
4. Berny 7c+ 16. Lunicorno 5c
5. Ictus 6c+ 17. Stattento 5c
6. Destinazione Arena 7c+ 18. Impretrites 5b
7. Sabato turistico 6c 19. Marinas 5a
8. Prime impressioni 6a
9. Tullio e lamore 6a
10. Hurgada 6b
1
12
11
10
9
8
7
4
2
15
14
13
6
3
17
16
5
19 18
Lago di Garda
1.4. Massone, middle part
25 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.2. / 1.3. / 1.5. / 1.6. / 1.7. / 1.8.
1
9
8
7
4
2 6
3
5
1. Rettoscopie 6b+
2. Il culto 6b
3. Fata Morgana 7a+
4. Il rotorno di Aly 6b+
5. Ulla 6c
6. Un bacio di Karin 7a+
7. Halloween 7a
8. Ottopromille 6c+
9. Briciola 6c
Lago di Garda
1.5. Massone, right part
20 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.2. / 1.3. / 1.4. / 1.6. / 1.7. / 1.8.
1
8
7
4
2
6
3
5
1. Brioche 7c
2. La chiave 7b+
3. Utopia 6b+
4. Zelda 7c
5. Red rocks 8a
6. Alpen liebe 6c+
7. Il calabrese 7c
8. Open area 8a+
9. M.S. 7c
10. Beach boys 7b
11. ? 8a+
12. Disneland 7c
13. Efrem de Sisco 7a+
14. Rubagotti 7c
15. Epilogo 7a+
16. Bonsai 7c+
17. Abissi 7c
18. Pilotwings 7c
12
11
10
9
15
14
13
17
16
See route 1.
1.7.
18
Lago di Garda
40 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.2. / 1.3. / 1.4. / 1.5. / 1.7. / 1.8.
1
8,
9
7
4
2
6
3
5
1. Cannabis 7b+
2. Only locals 7b+
3. Gameboy 7b
3.1. Gameboy plus 8a
4. Ultimo dubbio 7a+
5. Il vizzietto 7c
6. La cucina 8a
7. Fessura porta 7a
8. Il cattivo ist berall 7c
9. Meglio un giallo 7c
10. Ramses 7c
11. Ludness 7a
12. Warner Broz 7b
13. Il ballatoio 6c
14. La cura della fessura 6c
15. Mangia cacca 7a
16. Gino e la sfiga 6b+
17. La scolaro 6b+
18. Aladin 7a
19. Adelante 7a+
20. Duracell 7b
12,
13
11
10
15 14
17 16
19
18
20
9
13
3.1
Lago di Garda
30 m.
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.2. / 1.3. / 1.4. / 1.5. / 1.6. / 1.8.
Lago di Garda
1
8,
9
4
6,
7
5
10,
11,
12,
13
16
14
20,
21
23,
24
22
26
25
2 3
7
9
12
11
18
17
19
20
24
30
31
15
32
33
28
27
29
1. Blondhopf 7b+ 8. Randa 8a+ 15. Reinis Vibos 8c 28. El Riccio 8a+
2. Troppo leicht 7b+ 9. Fuego 8b 16. La Pietra murata 8b+ 29. The best off 8a
3. Troppo schwar 8b 10. Underground 8c+ 17. ? 8a+ 30. Obsession 7b+
4. Super attico 7c+ 11. X-Large 8c 18. Shaved beaver 7c 31. ? 7c+
5. Haleboop 8b+ 12. Super Maratona 8b 19. Flytrap 7a 32. The brohen vase 7c+
6. Grado dipendenti 7c 13. Maratona 8b 20. Twingo 7b+ 33. Better days 7b
7. Big spender 7b+ 14. Athena 8b+ 21. KathaMartina 7b
22. Mike Jordan 8b
23. Thin Ice 7b
24. Spleen 7a
25. Hochseitzpfeiler 8a+
26. Heroes del Silencio 8b+
27. Man spricht deutsch 8b
1.8. Massone, far right
25 m. ( nr. 16 are 45 m.)
Southeast
Take me to 1.1. / 1.2. / 1.3. / 1.4. / 1.5. / 1.6. / 1.7.
1
P
P
P Massone
Arco
Direction
Rovereto
Direction
Trento San Martino
P
2
Direction
Troiana
P
Lago di Garda
1
8
4 6
14 15
2
3
7
9
12 11
5
13
10
2.2.
2.1.
2.1.
1. Cinema Paradiso ?
2. Carnevale 7a
3. Nice Price ?
4. Elefant ?
5. Orange Juice ?
6. Brown sugar 8a
7. Brasl ?
8. Efeu Tanz 7b
9. Blov Job 7a
10. Canna Cannon 7b
11. Red Points 7c
12. Lo Hobbit 8a
13. Renni ?
14. Mama Africa 8a+
15. Mama 8b
16. Tula (no TOPOS) 7b
Take me to 2.2.
Drive from Arco in the direction of
Trento. About 300 metres after you
have passed the bridge a road to
the right is signposted MASSONE,
S. MARTINO. Follow that road to
Massone. After a short tunnel turn
left in the direction of FALECIA
POLICROMURA and BRAILIA-BE-
DRENA . In the following T-junction,
turn right. Pass the Massone and
continue 3 km. In the T-junction,
turn left and in the first hairpin you
will find a car park. Walk 150 metres
up to the crag.
2.1. Terra Promessa
N 45 56.529
EO 10 55.018 (Car park)
35 m.
West, Southwest
Lago di Garda
1
8
6
2
3
7 9
12
11
5
13
10
15
17
16
4
1. Nanur 6a+ 9. O Pio mio 7c+
2. US Open 6a+ 10. Tribout 8a
3. Rere 6a 11. Cathy 7c
4. Lorenzo 6a+ 12. Solimano 8a
5. Cris Crocco 6b 13. Marco gelato 8b
6. Lochness 6a, 6c+ 14. Cludio Caff 8c
7. Luca Joint 6c+ 15. Aerodromo 8b+
8. Weisswurst 7b 16. ? ?
17. Hydra 8a
14
2.2. Terra Promessa
30 m.
West, Southwest
Take me to 2.1.
1
8
6
2
3
7
9
12
11
5
10
4
P
P
P
Direction
Trento
Direction
Nago
C
a
m
p
i
n
g
Private
Restaurant
3.1.
3.2.
3.3.
3.4.
4
Arco
1. Povero illuso 7c
2. ? ?
3. Pericoloso sporgerti 6a
4. Mani pulite 6b+
5. Betazza 6a+
6. Ciciuz 6a
7. O sole mio 6a+
8. Soltanto un gioco 6a+
9. Anna e... 6a
10. E per si muove 5c
11. Tienila 5c
12. Donaldo 5a
Lago di Garda
3.1. Massi di Prabi
15 m.
North
Take me to 3.2. / 3.3.
From South ( Riva del Garda). Drive trough Arco,
just before the road turns to the right over a bridge
a smaller road leads straight ahead down to a car
park. From this car park it is easy to view the
crags, and a good place to have as a meeting
point. It is near to the Arco old city, with climbing
stores, restaurants and shops. Masi di Prabi is
two smaller crags in an boulder area near the
Camping where you will find a indoor boulder wall.
Park at the car park between the Camping and a
bar. Continue on the small road about 200-300
metres. On your left is a restaurant CALIFORNIA.
Take the road in the direction of the restaurant
car park, turn left on the track and after about 50
metres you will find crag 3.2.
To find Sport Roccia (3.3.), continue to the right
and towards Colodri Est. This crag has sport
routes on a small part of Colodri Est. To reach
the multi pitch routes on Colodri Est, take the
same approach.
1. Barna lama 6b
2. Politema 7a
3. Il male sconfitto 7a
4. Egoista 6b+
5. Strane idee 6b
6. Zoo caming 6a
7. Sud Africa 6b+
8. Lucia 6a
9. Via del Maurilio 4a
10. Ancora una 5a
Lago di Garda
1,2
8
6
2
3
7
9
5
10
4
3.2. Massi di Prabi
15 m.
North
Take me to 3.1. / 3.3.
1. Camouflage 6c 10. ? ?
2. Cupido 6b 11. ? ?
3. Daphne 7b 12. ? ?
4. Palline 7b 13. Sayonara club 6c+
5. Cactus 6c 14. Il dolce far niente 7a
6. No money 6c+ 15. Black crak 7a,6c+
7. Andromeda 6b+ 16. Finale maschile 7c
8. Dont worry 6b+ 17. Finalissima 7b
9. Orchidea 6c+ 18. Finale Femminile 7a
Lago di Garda
1
8
6
2 3
7
9
5
10
4
14
13
12
11
15
16
18
17
3.3. Sport roccia 86
25 m. One multi pitch 40 m.
East
Take me to 3.1. / 3.2.
Lago di Garda
G
u
r

B
a
s
s
i
S
p
i
t
f
i
r
e

v
a
r
i
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t
e
H
a
m
m
a
d
a
F
e
s
t
i
v
a
l
Z
a
n
z
a
r
a
4
6b
4
7a
7c
5a
6c
7a+
6b
7c
7c+
7a
7a
7b
4
7c+
6c+
6a
6a
6a
6b
6c
7a 6b
7b
6a
7b
6b+
6c
7a
5c
6a
6b+
6b+
7c
6c
7a
7c
6c
6c
7b
3.4. Colori Est
Multi pitch 300 m.
East
Lago di Garda
S
t
y
r
i
a
E
m
i
l
i
a
n
a
M
a
i
a
l
i

n
e
l
l
o
s
p
a
z
i
o
P
a
s
s
i

f
a
l
s
i
R
i
c
c
i

e

c
a
p
r
i
c
c
i
A
s
p
e
t
t
a
n
d
o

M
a
r
t
i
n
o
7a
6b+
6b
7a+
6b+
6a
6c
6c+
7b
7a
7a
6b
5c
6a
6a
6c
7a
5a
3c
4c
4c
6b
6c
7a
6c
6b+
6c+
6b
4c
4c
5a
5c
7a
6b+
P
P
P
Direction
Trento
Direction
Nago
C
a
m
p
i
n
g
Private
Restaurant
3.1.
3.2.
3.3.
3.4.
4
Arco
4.1. Rupe Secca Est
Multi pitch 200 m.
East
From South ( Riva del Garda). Drive trough
Arco, just before the road turns to the right
over a bridge a smaller road leads straight
ahead down to a car park. From this car park
it is easy to view the crags, and a good place
to have as a meeting point. It is near to the
Arco old city, with climbing stores, restaurants
and shops. This car park is also the place to
start your approach to Rupe Secca Est. Walk
to the road that turns left, Via Legionari, and
follow the track to the crag.
To reach Rupe Secca Sud the best way is
described on TOPOS 4.2.
P
P
P
Direction
Trento
Direction
Nago
C
a
m
p
i
n
g
Private
4.1.
Arco
4.2.
4.3.
P
P
Direction
Riva del Garda
Tennis
court
Lago di Garda
Restaurant
1
8
6
2
3
7
9
5
10
4
14
13
12 11
15 16
17
20
21
18
19
23 22
1. La venere nera 7b+ 9. Waunded Knee 6b
2. Ivan a tutta canna 7a 10. Sister Moon 6c+
3. La larna del sole 7a+ 11. Apache 7a+
4. Sandrino Jones 7a 12. Gli Antenati
5. Luomo lichene 6b+ 13. Durazzik Park
6. Il Caprone Beato 14. ? ?
7. Via Crusis 15. Laal 7a+
8. Bravi ma lenti 16. La donna cannone 7a
17. Rupe Morbida 8a
18. Zacha 7c
19. Diavolina 8a
20. Drepano 7b+
21. Mani di Burro 7c
22. Lincompiuta 6c+
23. Trota 6b+
6a
6c
6c
5b
5c
6a
4b
6c
5c
6a+
6a+
6a
6a+
6a
6b
7a+
6b
6a
6b+
From Camping. Drive on the main road in the
direction of Riva del Garda. In the town, turn
right in a crossroad after a Tennis court, Via
C. Battisti. Continue and drive straight forward,
you will pass a park (to your left), Parco
Arciducale, and some old parts of Arco, Porta
Stranforio.
The small road will lead you up to Via Crusis
and you can park at the big car park in the T-
junction or continue around (one way road)
and park at a lay bay on the left side of the
road. Take the track 30 metres to the crag.
4.2. Rupe Secca Sud
30 m. Multi pitch 80 m.
South
Take me to 4.3.
Lago di Garda
1
8
6
2
3
7
9
10
4
14
13
12
11
16
17
5c
5a
5
5c
5b
4a
5c
15
1. Simply Red 6c
2. Yena Plinsky 7a
3. Preludio 6a, 6b+
4. Modesty Blaise 7b+
5. Athos projett 7a
6. Sher Kahn 6b+
7. Virus 6b+
8. Bauleni Village 5a, 6a+, 5c
9. Gigi il musico 5a, 6b
10. Mister caramel 7a
11. Passeggiata nel grigio 6c, 7a
12. Club Med 7a, 7b
13. Alhoa (variant) 7b
14. Gobbi-Seiwald
15. Bongo
16. Michy en Lory 7a
17. Cicciolina spit 6a
4.3. Rupe Secca Sud
25 m. Multi pitch up to 90 m.
South
Take me to 4.2.
Lago di Garda
Arco
P
Direction
Riva del Garda
Tennis
court
Restaurant
4
5.2.
5.1.
1
6
2
3
7
9
10
4
12
11
5
8
1. Lo scoiaro 6c 7. Spiraglio di sole 7a
2. Il caccastrello 7b 8. Aurora 6a
3. Brontolosauro ? 9. Tarifa 6b
4. ? ? 10. Che cavron 6b
5. Any la fata 7c 11. Nutellata tour 6a
6. Grey Ape 8a 12. Il bacio della donna senza danti 6a+
13. top Flex 101 6a+
14. Red Point 7a
14
13
From the Camping. Drive on the main road in the direction of Riva del
Garda. In the town, turn right in a crossroad after a Tennis court, Via
C. Battisti. Continue and drive straight forward, you will pass a park (to
your left), Parco Arciducale, and some old parts of Arco, Porta Stranforio.
The small road will lead you up to Via Crusis (one way road). At a cross,
just by a small Chapel, turn left in the direction of 408, Mandre, S.
Giovanni. Park after 800 meteres, where the small road changes from
asphalt to cement. Continue 30 metres and turn left and follow a track
signposted 408, Mandre, S. Giovanni.
At the crest, turn right and after 15 metres you will find yourself standing
under a power line mast. Continue straight forward (dont take the track
that leads to the left or to the right). A small track that could be easy to
miss leads you to the crag after 100 metres.
5.1. Salt de la Cavra
N 45 55.937 (car park)
EO 10 52.767
20 m.
East
Take me to 5.2.
Lago di Garda
1
6
2
3
7
9
10
4
5
8
11
1. Pacrili 7a+ 7. Mister Bean ?
2. M B 97 7b 8. Beppe il fisico esoterico 6c+
3. Livio 6c 9. Ischiatutto 7a
4. Mani di burro 7c+ 10. Folle idea 6c
5. La bruschettata 7a 11. Il testamento di mio zio 6b+
6. Esto es el primero 7a
5.2. Salt de la Cavra
25 m.
East
Take me to 5.1.
Lago di Garda
Arco
P
Restaurant
4
5.2.
5.1.
P
6
7
M
a
r
a
m
a
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S
p
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T
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n
a
d
o
N
e
s
s
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o
n
a
s
c
e

i
m
p
a
r
a
t
o
L
i
b
e
r
t
y
L
e

l
u
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e
d
i

P
a
o
l
a
6a+
6a
6c+
6b+
7a
6c
5c
6b
6c
7a
7b
7a+
7c
6b
6b
6a+
6b+
5c
6c
6a+
7a +
7a
6a
just by a small Chapel, turn left in the direction of 408, Mandre, S.
Giovanni. The small road changes from asphalt to cement, then it will
become a gravelled road. Locate the crags, park at a lay bay by the
road and walk to the crag.
You will need a double rope to be able to abseil down.
6. Mandrea, I Pilastri Povero and Afgano
Double rope necessary for abseil
Multi pitch 150 m.
East
Lago di Garda
Arco
P
Restaurant
4
5.2.
5.1.
P
6
7
1. Dietro o davanti 6b+ 8. I suini ?
2. Il riposo ? 9. Piccola peste 7b+
3. ? ? 10. Signorina 7b
4. ? ? 11. Spirito nero 7b
5. ? ? 12. Un coccodrillo 6c+
6. Red point trip 7b+ 13. Pippistrello 7b
7. Contre di Cavour 7b 14. Felix 7a
15. Riai ?
16. lo, tu e Epifanio 7b+
17. Gino pilotino 7a
18. Bambina 7a
19. La bistecca 7a
20. Luomo falso e... 6b+
1
6
2
3
7
9
10
4
5
8
11
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
just by a small Chapel, continue straight forward. 1,5 km after you have
passed the Chapel the road turns to the left, a smaller road leads straight
forward and you will find a car park in this T-junction. Park and follow
the smaller road 20 - 30 metres. Just before a house a track turns off
to the right. Follow this track and when you first meet a crag, in a hairpin,
take to the left on a small track and follow that 50 metres to reach the
crag.
7. Red Point Wall
32 m.
West
Arco
P
Restaurant
4
5.2.
5.1.
P
6
7
Lago di Garda
1
6
2
3
7
9
10,
11
4
5
8
18
17
16
15
14
13 12
19
20
11
1. ? ? 8. Linfaticabile uomo 4c
2. La macc. nera 3c 9. Collezione di ... 5b
3. Questione di ... 6a 10. Il manico 4c
4. Prima erede 6b 11. Prime esperienze 4b
5. Walter lasa 6b 12. La thermos 5a
6. Alice nel paese 6b+ 13. Servi della gleba 3c
7. Randa de vista 6a+ 14. Boulder con ... 3c
15. Calcio dAngolo 4a
16. Corso 97 5a
17. Spazzacamino 4a
18. ? ?
19. Il dicembre 6a
20. Giovanna 5c
just by a small Chapel, park your car and follow the track. After a long
walk, just before you reach the crest, a small track leads straight forward
in a hairpin. Follow that and after about 100 metres you will stand by
the right part of this crag.
If you continue the main track you will reach the top of Colodri Est, with
a beautiful view.
The crag aint one of the best, but together with a nice walk and a nice
view it could do.
8. Muro dell Asino
30 m.
West
Lago di Garda
Direction
Trento
Zoo
Camping
Restaurant
P
P
1
6
2,
3
7
9
10
4
5 8
16 15 14
13
12
11
3
1. Pipistrello 7b
2. Indiana Jones 7c, 7c
3. Super swing 7b+
4. La gnogna 7b+
5. Nisida 7c
6. Balle bollenti 7c
7. La pista 8a
8. La gita 7b
9. Porca vacca 7c+
10. Armando Diaz 7a
11. Greppo Greppo 6a, 5a
12. Karl Dalle 6c+, 6b+
13. Sirac en rut 6b+, 6b
14. Topolino 6b+
15. Karl Knopf 7a
16. Tin tin 6c
9.1. Swing area
East
Take me to 9.2.
Drive from Arco in the direction of Trento but instead
of the main road you take the smaller road on the
West side of the river F. Sarca. You will pass the
Camping, after some 100 metres you also pass the
Zoo Camping. Continue in the direction of Ceniga.
After you have passed a restaurant, La Laterna, you
will be able to locate the crags to your left. Park and
follow the track to the crag.
Lago di Garda
1. Not only Apple 7a
2. Parassiti doltralpe 6c
3. Copacabana 7a, 7b+
4. ? ?
5. Letica del Ba. Ro. 8a+
6. Tibbia silinziosa 7c, 7c+
7. Dune 7c+
8. Spirito libero 8a
1, 2
7
4
5, 6
8
3
2
6
9.2. Diamante
East
Take me to 9.1.
Lago di Garda
12
13
Nago
Torbole
11
10
11
10
P
P
1, 2
6
7
9
10
4
5
8
16
15
14
3
20
19
18
17
21
13 12
11
2
23
22
1. Piccola chimera 5c 10. Loro del Reno 6c+
2. Via del Biscotto 6a+ 11. Bastiamola li 7a
3. Patatina Fritta 6b 12. Worm up 6b
4. Renato butta 6b+ 13. Pea Brain 7a
5. Zucchina trafelata 6a 14. Apotecher 7a+
6. Fini Flambee 7a+ 15. Cave Cannam 7b+
7. Zorro in condotta 6c 16. Last train home 7b+
8. Si badrone 7a 17. Povero gatto 7b+
9. Naquimo Forti 7a+ 18. Urlo del vento 7a
19. Val di Non 6c+
20. Il dolce 6c
21. Caff espresso 6b+
22. ? ?
23. ? ?
10.1. Belvedere
25 m.
Southwest
Drive from Arco in the direction of Nago.
About 150 metres before you reach the T-
junction (Arco, Nago, Torbole) you will find
a big car park on your right. The car park
is a sight seeing point with benches and
table.
To reach the main crag (10.1.) cross the
road from the car park. Follow a track that
sometimes is a stone waterfall. It is easy
to get lost, but the crag is just about 100
metres from the car park.
This crag offers nice climbing with a
beautiful view over Lago di Garda.
To reach the small crag (10.2.). Follow the
road in the direction of Nago, cross the
road after 50 metres and you will find a
track. Follow the track into the thicket, near
the crag, and after 20 metres you will find
the routes.
Take me to 10.2.
Lago di Garda
1
4
5
3
2
1. ? 5b
2. Lurky 6a+
3. ? 5c
4. ? 5b
5. Storch 6a
10.2. Belvedere
N 45 52.829
EO 10 53.227
8 m.
Southwest
Take me to 10.1.
Lago di Garda
12
13
Nago
Torbole
11
10
11
10
P
P
1
10
4, 5,
6, 7
9
3
11 to 19
from left to right
2
4
7
6
5
1. Marmitta catalittica 6c, 5c 10. Un attimo 6a+
2. I due giganti 6a, 5c 11. Ulisse 6a
3. Piove governo 6b+, 5c 12. ? 4c
4. ? 6b 13. ? 4c
5. Orecchietta 6a+ 14. ? 4c
6. A tutta birra 7a 15. ? 4c
7. Faro freak 6c 16. ? 4c
8. Dora 5c, 5c 17. ? 4c
9. Galattica 6b 18. Il ciclope 5c
19. ? 6a+
9
11. Marmitte dei Giganti
Southeast
Drive from Arco in the direction of Nago.
In the T-junction (Arco, Nago, Torbole),
turn right in the direction of Torbole. After
200 metres, after a hairpin, you will find a
big car park on your right. Walk down the
road 40 metres and turn right, on to a track
signposted Marmite del Gigante. When you
reach a cross, take right to reach the big
pothole, take left and walk down to a
beautiful meadow where you will find the
rest of the routes.
The bar at the opposite side of the road
from the car park has nice sandwiches.
Lago di Garda
12
13
Nago
Torbole
11
10
P
P
P
Direction
Arco
Drive from Arco to Nago. In the T-junction
(Arco, Torbole, Mori), drive straight over
the main road and into the village Nago.
turn left and soon you pass a car park.
Turn right and find your way through the
village.
Look out for a signpost, Strada del monte
Baldo. Depending on wich part you want
to go to, drive to the car park on the south
side of the crag and park on a big car park
by a Ranch or drive. Alternative, drive on
the road signposted chiesetta alpini Casina
and park by the road in a hairpin where
you see the upper part of this magnificent
crag. In both cases, take the track about
100 metres to reach the crag.
This is one of the crags in the area that
offers very good climbing.
Keymap, Approach, Nago
N 45 52.243 (Car Park South)
EO 10 53.585
1
6
7
9
10
4
5
8
16 15
14
3
20 19 18
17 21
2
23
22
11 13
12
25 24
1. ? ? 16. Ramba 6a
2. ? ? 17. Phantom 6b+
3. ? ? 18. Chiedi a Beppo 6b
4. ? ? 19. Panorama 6b+
5. ? ? 20. Kira 6c
6. Vogue 6a 21. Il panettiere 6c+
7. Nuvola rossa 6a 22. Good Morning 7c+
8. Giochi dombra 5c 23. Mario la sa 7b
9. Take it easy 5c 24. Ruggero lo perfido 6a+
10. ? ? 25. Fuori orario 6c
11. ? ?
12. ? ?
13. ? ?
14. ? ?
15. Il calabrone 5b
Lago di Garda
12.1. Nago
25 m.
South
Take me to 12.2. / 12.3. / 12.4. / 12.5. / 12.6. / 12.7. / 12.8.
1
4
5
3
2
1
4
3
2
6
TOPOS 12.1.
1. Flash 7c
2. ? 8c
3. ? 7a+
4. Via Nicole ?
5. Buon anno 5b
6. Un bar per Rita 5c
Lago di Garda
12.2. Nago
15 m.
North, East
Take me to 12.1. / 12.3. / 12.4. / 12.5. / 12.6. / 12.7. / 12.8.
1. Bali 6a 10. Il Capriccio 7c
2. Visigoti 6a 11. Supermario 7b+
3. Unni 4c 12. Gobazio 6a+
4. Zuppa zuppa 3, 6a 13. La mandria 6a
5. Parampampoli 3, 6b 14. Mario Polenta 6a
6. Alcor 5b 15. Lillila 6a+
7. Winkinbongo 5b
8. Asd 5c
9. Enzo Molinari 5c
1
6
7
9
10
4
5
8
15
14
3
2
11
12
13
Lago di Garda
12.3. Nago
South
Take me to 12.1. / 12.2. / 12.4. / 12.5. / 12.6. / 12.7. / 12.8.
1
6
7
9
10
4
5
8
14
2, 3
11
12
13
16
15
17
3
1. la placca 5c, 6a+ 10. Esuli lontani 7a
2. Cato-Zul 6b+ 11. La nonna va 6c+
3. Lo sconosciuto 6b+ 12. Tasmania 7a
4. Peach-Pitt 6c 13. Crisalide 6b+
5. Torpedo 7a+ 14. ? ?
6. Mammalucco 7a 15. Facile 4c
7. Genesi 7a 16. Asdo da Melch 7c
8. ? 6b+ 17. Gris 7a+
9. Astuzio 6b+
Lago di Garda
12.4. Nago
South
Take me to 12.1. / 12.2. / 12.3. / 12.5. / 12.6. / 12.7. / 12.8.
1, 2
5
6
8, 9
3
4
7
14
13
15
10
11
12
17
16
9
2
1. Lucacappiotti 7b+
2. Dago 7b+
3. Eh Merch 7b
4. Culo dritto 7b
5. Uligane Dangereux 7a+
6. Passeggeri del vento 7b+
7. Lunatica 7b
8. Boulevard 7c
9. Per sempre Mary 7b+
10. I soliti Ignoti 7a
11. Sbargek 6b+
12. lupo Alberto 6c+, 7a+
13. Titanic 7a+
14. Iceberg 7a+
15. Gandalf 6c
16. Esodo 6b
17. Cohelet 6b+
18. Swami il bullo 5c
19. Nillo il bello 5c
19
18
Lago di Garda
12.5. Nago
South
Take me to 12.1. / 12.2. / 12.3. / 12.4. / 12.6. / 12.7. / 12.8.
1
5
6
8
3
4
7
14
15
10
17
16
9
2
13
12
11
10. Ragioner Filini 5c
11. Mega Direttore 5c
12. Alvarez 6b+
13. Aquilante 6b
1. Troppo buoni con le donne 5b 14. Il generale 6c
2. Nevermore 6c+ 15. Firminik 6a+
3. Spleen 6b 16. Il fachiro 6b+
4. Equinox 6a 17. Patti Sassi 5b
5. gerico 6a
6. Nightfly 5c
7. Super Tramp 5c
8. Good buy stranger 6a
9. Cif 5b
Lago di Garda
12.6. Nago
20 m.
South
Take me to 12.1. / 12.2. / 12.3. / 12.4. / 12.5. / 12.7. / 12.8.
1
5
6
3
4
7
2
11
10
9
8
1. King Lear 7a 7. Agave 7b
2. Cassio 6c+ 8. Elena 6b+
3. Lago 6c 9. Gonnerilla 7a
4. Rosencrantz 7a+ 10. Regana 6b
5. Guildenstern 6b+ 11. Cordelia 6a
6. Medea 6a+
Lago di Garda
12.7. Nago
30 m.
South
Take me to 12.1. / 12.2. / 12.3. / 12.4. / 12.5. / 12.6. / 12.8.
1
5
6
3
4
7
2
15
10,
11
9
8
14
13
12
17
16
1. Albatros 7a 7. Odyssey 7b+ 13. Mac Becht 7c
2. Little crack 5c 8. Nausica 7b 14. Marino 4b
3. franz und Andrea 7a 9. Prometeus 7a+, 7a 15. Ugo il Paciugo 4b
4. Das Glassperlenspiegel 6c 10. La tana dei ciclopi 7a+ 16. Pio albergo 6c
5. Patience dans lazur 6c+ 11. Lotus 7b+, 8a 17. C qualcosa 6a+
6. Cyclops 7a 12. Heracles 7c, 7c+
11
Lago di Garda
12.8. Nago
N 45 51.957
EO 10 53.849
South
Take me to 12.1. / 12.2. / 12.3. / 12.4. / 12.5. / 12.6. / 12.7.
Lago di Garda
12
13
Nago
Torbole
11
10
Direction
Arco
P
P
Pic nic
area
Hotel
Direction
Mori
1
5
4 3 2
6
12
11
10
9
8
7
13.2.
13.3.
very easy
easy
difficult
very difficult
extremely difficult
1. Super Nova 5c
2. Saphir 5c
3. Bochiada 6c+
4. Hot dream 5c
5. Fil de fer 6c
6. E.T. 5c
7. Nomesis 6b+
8. Sogni di robot 6b+
9. Hari sheldon 6a
10. Io noi Gaia 6a+
11. Il mule 4c
12. Seconda 5c
13.1. Passo S. Giovanni
Keymap, boulder
Take me to 13.2. / 13.3.
Drive from Arco to Nago. Turn left in the
T-junction in the direction of Mori and
Roverto. When you reach Passo S.
Giovanni you will find a car park in front of
the Hotel and also one at the opposite side
of the road.
About 50 metres to the right from the Hotel
a cycle and walk road leads down in the
valley. Follow that and then turn left on a
track to reach this area.
This is a perfect place for families, and you
will find more than 100 boulder problems
and rock climbing in a beautiful surrondings.
Lago di Garda
1
5
3
4
2
1. Venezia ?
2. Macho man ?
3. Moonraket ?
4. Fafifurni 8a
5. Bol de Ri 7b
13.2. Passo S. Giovanni
13 m.
North
Take me to 13.1. / 13.3.
Lago di Garda
1
5
3
4
2
10
9
8 7
6
11
1. Nuovi eroi 6c
2. S.D.A.P. 7a+
3. T.N.T. 7a, 7a
4. Sniff-sniff 7b+
5. Vampiria 7a
6. Doppio malto 6c
7. Lucky Strucca 6c+
8. Boys dont cry 6c
9. Controll 6b
10. Bucefalomania 6a+
11. Cri cri 6a+
13.3 Passo S. Giovanni
25 m.
South
Take me to 13.1. / 13.2.
13. Urla infinite 6c
14. Gabrys caffe 7a+
15. ? ?
1. I paesani 5c 16. ? ?
2. I frichettoni 6a+ 17. Spatacash 6c+
3. Ghost 7a+ 18. Tango e cash 5c
4. Engi 7a+ 19. Lasciami volare 6a+
5. Luigia 6b+ 20. Il disguido 7a
6. francesca 6b 21. Manaslu 6b
7. ? ? 22. ? ?
8. Carlo non farl o 6b+ 23. ? ?
9. Eroica 6b+ 24. Topo 5b
10. La suocera 7a+ 25. Gigio 4c
11. Philip Lorris 7b+
12. Sar quel che 6b+
14
Mori
Besagno
Tierno
15
Lago di Garda
Direction
Castione
1
5
3 4
2
9,
10
8
7
6
11
19
18
17
16 15
14
13
12
20
10
21
25
24
23
22
14.1. Besagno
35 m.
Northwest
Drive from Arco to Mori. In the village, turn right
in the direction of Besagno. Pass Besagno and
park by the side of the road 70 metres after
you have passed the cross where a road turns
right to Castione.
Take the track that leads into the wood where
a signpost declare that climbers climb without
any responsibilities for the land owner.
To the right you will find 14.2.
Take me to 14.2.
Lago di Garda
1
5
3
4
2
6
1. Tempi lontani 6b
2. Diretta allinfinito 6b+
3. The callieer 6b
4. Cerro Pipel 5c
5. Senza Sugo 6b
6. Ocio al travers 6a+
7. Var 5c
7
14.2. Besagno
30 m.
Northwest
Take me to 14.1.
Mori
15
Lago di Garda
Direction
Arco
Direction
Tierno
P
P
Boulder
area
1
5
3
4
2
9
8 7
6
11
18
16,
17 15
14 13 12 10
17
1. Linsensibile 7b+ 10. Poche idee 6c+
2. Max-minimum 7b+ 11. Scorpio 6b+
3. Larte delle 7a+ 12. Enigma 6a+
4. Lignoranza 6c 13. Pippo che 7a+
5. Menti e molecole 7b+ 14. Mani di fata 7a
6. Atto di forza 7c 15. Kibbutz 6b
7. Il non senso 6b 16. Tira buta 6c+
8. Overdose 6c+ 17. African 7a
9. Parny dura 6b 18. Meteora 7b
15. Mori
25 m.
South
Drive from Arco in the direction of
Mori. You will reach this two small
crags if you take left in the direction
of the old part of Mori.
The climbing isnt the best and you
could put off this crag if you are
visiting Arco for a short period.
From friends we have information
about a very nice boulder area
north of Santuario di Monte Albano,
marked on the map.
11
Nago
16
Torbole
Lago di Garda
10
12
16.1.
16.2.
P
1 5
3
4
2
9 8
7
11
15
14
12
10
6
13
16
18
17
1. Daffy-Daffy 6a+ 11. Albatros 6b, 7c
2. Ventofobia 6b 12. Luisa violenta 6b+, 5a, 7a
3. ? 7a 13. Tom tom club 6b, 7b
4. Funky ma chic 7b 14. Sentierissimo 7a
5. Bepi nero 7a 15. La signora degli appigli 7c
6. Piccola dose 7a+ 16. Non seguitemi 7b
7. Honky-Tonky 6b+ 17. Laury 7a
8. Cicala clack 7c 18. ? 6c
9. Peyote al rabarbaro 7c 19. Tom e jerry 7c
10. Pat end patachon 6b+
19
16.1. Spiaggia delle Lucertole
South
Drive from Arco in the direction of Nago. In the
T-junction, turn right in the direction of Torbole,
continue trough the village in the direction of
Malcesine. After about 2 km you will pass the
second tunnel. Park at a car park just as you
leave the tunnel. By the sea side is Spiaggia
delle Lucertole. To reach Corna di Bo, walk
back trough the tunnel and turn left as you leave
it.
Nice climbing by the sea.
Take me to 16.2.
Lago di Garda
1
5
3
4
2
1. Pritt 4b, 4b
2. Kuki 4c, 4c
3. ? ?
4. Tony il telefonista 3a, 5a, 5a, 3a
5. Cesira 3a, 5c
6. Norex 5a, 5a, 4a
6
16.2. Punta Corno di Bo
Multi pitch, 50 to 110 m.
West
Take me to 16.1.
Lago di Garda
17
Pietramurata
Lago di Cavedine
18
P
17.1.
17.2.
17.3.
17.4.
1
5
3
4
2
9
8 7
11
16
14 12
10
6
15
1. Arbeit macht frei 6c 10. Il delta di Venere 6b+, 6b, 6c
2. Ultima tule 7a+ 6b, 6b+
3. Aquila della notte 6b 11. Volo felice 7b+, 6b, 7b+
4. Al tonno 7b 12. La fattoria degli animali 6c, 6b
5. Preludio 7a+ 7a, 6c
6. Potiomkin 7a 13. Land Art 7a, 7c
7. Fruit e vegetabilt 7a, 6b, 3a 7b, 7b
7a, 6c, 6b 14. Controvento 7c, 7c+, 7a+
8. Perigeo 6c 15. Quarto potere 6b+, 6c
9. Mururoa 6b, 6b, 7b 16. Panghea 6b, 6a+
7a, 6b
13
17.5.
17.1. Transatlantico
30 m. Multi pitch, 120 m.
East
Take me to 17.2. / 17.3. / 17.4. / 17.5.
Drive from Arco in the direction of Sarche. A couple of hundred
metres after you have reached Pietramurata you will see a bar
on your left, Snack Bar New Entry. Park at the big car park
outside the bar. From the car park you can see and locate the
crags. Follow a small track from the car park, after about 100
metres you will meet a new track, follow that 100 metres to the
left and then turn right just where a stone is marked 426 on a
small track if you are going to visit 17.3., 17.4. or 17.5. Continue
straight forward for 17.1. and 17.2.
Lago di Garda
1 5
3
4 2
9
8
7
6
11
18 16 15
14 13
10
17
12
24
23
22
21
20
19
25
1. Initiator 6a 10. Benny 6a 19. ? 7c+
2. La Tambata 6b+ 11. Austria 5c 20. Pin e Puk 8a
3. Spazio 1999 6c 12. Shhit 7c+ 21. El Nino 7c
4. Nutella 6b+ 13. Una Manzana 7c+ 22. Mani di Fata 7a
5. Tutti i giorni 6c+ 14. La Bamba 7c+ 23. Rampados 7b
6. Il topo 7a 15. La Classica 7c 24. Scorpion 7a
7. Ficcanaso 6a 16. Ikebana 8a 25. Ocio che slimpego 7b
8. Tantum 7a+ 17. Libia 7c+
9. Jack 6c 18. Dx Sx 7c
17.2.1. Camerete
30 m.
Southeast
Take me to 17.1. / 17.3. / 17.4. / 17.5.
Take me to 17.2.2.
Lago di Garda
1
5
3
4 2
9 8
7
6 11
10
1. La Rivincita ?
2. Sogno ?
3. Tutti Pazzi ?
4. Tornatene ?
5. Ovviamente 6b+
6. Diedricamente 6b
7. ? ?
8. Nido di Falco 5c, 6a+, 6b, 6a
9. Sorella Luna 7a
10. Fratello Sole 7b
11. Doveri 7a+
17.2.2. Camerete
30 m. One Multi pitch 100 m.
Southeast
Take me to 17.1. / 17.3. / 17.4. / 17.5.
Take me to 17.2.1.
Lago di Garda
1
5
3
4
2
9
8
7
6
11
10
13
12
1. Prete lesso 7b+
2. ? ?
3. ? ?
4. ? 7c
5. ? ?
6. ? 7c
7. ? ?
8. ? 7b
9. ? 7a+
10. ? 7c
11. ? 7b
12. ? 7c+
13. ? 6b
17.3. Muro di Chitarra
15 m.
Northeast, East
Take me to 17.1. / 17.2. / 17.4. / 17.5.
Lago di Garda
1
5
4
2, 3
3
7
6
1. ? ?
2. ? 7a+
3. ? 7b+
4. ? 7a
5. ? 7a+
6. ? 7b+
7. Gratta e vinci 7b
17.4. Baule
N 46 01.341
EO 10 55.975
25 m.
Southeast
Take me to 17.1. / 17.2. / 17.3. / 17.5.
Lago di Garda
9 10
10. ? ?
11. Non seici 7b
12. Il celvino 7b
13. Scontrino 6a
14. La sfesura 5c
15. Giro daria ?
16. Gipelosa 5c
1. Gerry 6a 17. Mr. Castagna 6c+
2. Struccaluca 6b 18. Minicuz e .. 6b+
3. Mammaluca 6c 19. Il giardino di ... 6a+
4. Don Pedro 7a 20. Killer Sisters 6b+
5. Polverom 7b 21. Sgeve dautore 7a+
6. Craxi crack 6b 22. Ehi fratello 7b
7. Mr. Obaloba 7a 23. B.B. 7b
8. Zio e la Tibia 6c+ 24. Lo slancio 7b
9. Bertoli 7b+ 25. Diesel 6b
1
5
3
4
2
8
7
6
11
18
16
15
14
13
17
12
22
21
20
19
23
25
24
17.5. Giardini di nato
25 m.
East
Take me to 17.1. / 17.2. / 17.3. / 17.4.
Lago di Garda
9
10
1
5
3
4
2
8 7 6
17
Pietramurata
Lago di Cavedine
18
P
16 15
14 13
21
20
19 18
17
11
12
1. Solero 6a+ 12. ? ?
2. Cookie Snack 6b 13. Bikini 7b
3. Ice tea 6b+ 14. Blob 7b+
4. Liuk 6b+ 15. Winner 7b
5. Calippo 6a 16. Croccante 5c
6. Freddolone 6b+ 17. Coppa del nonno 7a
7. Cremino 6b 18. Eldorado 6c
8. Camillino 6b+ 19. Il profeta 7b+
9. Cornetto 6b+ 20. Timoty Leary 7b
10. Magnum 7a 21. Boom 7a
11. Cucciolone 7b 22. Estremi rimedi 6c+
18.1. Sisyphos
N 46 01.788 (car park)
EO 10 56.641
25 m.
East
Take me to 18.2.
Drive from Arco in the direction of Sarche. Park on a small road
that turns left at the outskirts of Pietramurata in a industy block.
The small road is located 500 metres before the bridge. Walk
to the house placed just before the bridge and follow the small
road that turns in on the left side of the house (straight forward
though). You will pass an old industy, C. MUSSI, and 500
metres after you have passed the house you will find a track
to the left. Follow that to reach the crag.
Lago di Garda
9
10
1 5
3, 4
2
8 7
6
16
15 14
13
17 11
12
3
See route 21,
18.1.
18
1. Goo 7b 10. Maestro tappo 7a
2. Corriera barallina 7b+ 11. Vita da corridoio 6c+
3. Ogni limite ha una pazienza 6c+ 12. Spavaldo 6b+
4. Lampo di fulmine 6b+ 13. Piume di struzzo 6a
5. Uccidi i tuoi idoli 7c 14. Vaselina 6a
6. By Pass 7b 15. Il terzo sesso 6b
7. Ci Isoffio 7a+ 16. La commedia umana 6c+
8. Severance 7a 17. Tu mi pungi 5c
9. Non mi conta il torno 7a+ 18. Il ruggito del leone 7a
18.2. Sisyphos
25 m.
East
Take me to 18.1.
Lago di Garda
17
P
P
18
19
20
Pietramurata
Sarche
Lasino
Stravino
Cavedine
L
a
g
o

d
i

C
a
v
e
d
i
n
e
Keymap, Approach, San Siro
Drive from Dro to Lasino. In Lasino, turn left on one of the small
roads in the direction of Pergolese, Sarche and the Chapel
San Siro. In the second hairpin after you have passed the
Chapel you will find a big car park.
Walk down some steps to find the right track, turn right in the
T-junction and after 150 metres you will reach the right part of
San Siro crag.
You can also continue with the car to a car park further down,
easy to find because of a big notice board covering tracks and
climbing in the area.
A superb crag, a lot of nice climbing and easy access also for
families.
9 10
1
5 3
2
8
7
6
16 15
14 13
17
11
12
18
4
21
20
19
24
23
22
1. Chaira ma indecisa 7a+ 13. Quivi il tempo 7b
2. ? ? 14. ? ?
3. Charlot 7b+ 15. Atlantic city 7c+
4. Luisiana 7b 16. ? 7b+
5. ? 6a 17. Regan boia 6b+
6. Aleph 6a 18. ? ?
7. Scansati 7a+ 19. Haiku ?
8. Salay 7a+ 20. Zagor 7c
9. Jeron 7b 21. Iatifah 7b
10. E inutile sognare 8a 22. Vendetta 7b+
11. Miss Lolita 7b+ 23. ? ?
12. Melarinfanfunfinfla 8a+ 24. Mafia bianca 7a
Lago di Garda
19.1. San Siro
N 46 01.682
EO 10 58.198
25 m.
South
Take me to 19.2. / 19.3.
10
1
5
3
2
8
7
6
16
15
14
13
17
11
12
18
4
20
19
9
23 22
21
1. La monella 6c+ 13. Magic Biest 5c
2. Meninblak 8a 14. Mir 7b+
3. Memboraccio 6b 15. Lessenziale 8a+
4. Blow 7b+ 16. Tempesta nel deserto 8a
5. Xanadu 8a+ 17. ? ?
6. Eletric Budda 8a 18. ? ?
7. Piani molteplici 7c 19. Aria 6c
8. Letreno presente 7b 20. ? ?
9. Il vergine 7a+ 21. Tuxedo 6a
10. Nuvole 7a 22. Gedeone 5c
11. Dedi 6c 23. The kid 5a
12. Bush del cul 6a+
Lago di Garda
19.2. San Siro
30 m.
South
Take me to 19.1. / 19.3.
10
1
5
3
2
8
7
6
16
15
17
4
9
13
12
11
14
1. Pic-Nic 6b+ 13. Rock Story 6b+, 6a, 6b
2. Nuovi giorni 6b 14. Una foolta 6a
3. Il risveglio degli eroi 6b 15. Castaglia 6a
4. Houdini 6c+ 16. Magico Alberman 6b+
5. Nazka 7b+ 17. Thyco B. 6b
6. Sederini Parlanti 7b 18. Fiesta 7a
7. Fred fallo 7a+ 19. W Messico 6c
8. Zio ulcera 7c 20. Il fagiano 6a+
9. Mad professor 7b+
10. Flipper 6c+, 6a+
11. Alexander Plaz 7b, 6a
12. Zizomat 6b+, 6b+, 6a+
20
19
18
Lago di Garda
19.3. San Siro
30 m. Multi pitch up to 65 m.
South
Take me to 19.1. / 19.2.
Lago di Garda
17
18
19
20
Pietramurata
Sarche
Lasino
Stravino
Cavedine
L
a
g
o

d
i

C
a
v
e
d
i
n
e
P
10
1
5 3
2
8
7
6
18
4
9
16
11
23
22
21
26
25
24
19
20
15
17
12 14 13
1. Latte Pi ? 14. Tot dArabia 7b
2. Sbarbie e Prepuzio 6c 15. Ingenue Utopie 6c
3. Popolo bue 6c+ 16. Placebo 6c+
4. Oro nero 6c 17. Polvere 7b
5. Oib 6b+ 18. Misery 7b
6. Oib plus 7c 19. Ganja 7b
7. Alta tensione 6a+ 20. Magma 6c
8. Alta tensione plus 7b+ 21. Sesso e nutella 6b+
9. Gioia Rivoluzione 7a+ 22. Vox Populi 7a
10. Gioia Rivoluzione plus 7c 23. Diaframma 6c+
11. Alibi 7a 24. ? ?
12. Orgasmatic 7b+ 25. ? ?
13. Palpito tenue 7b+ 26. ? ?
20. Cavedine
N 45 59.913 (car park)
EO 10 57.624
25 m.
West
Drive from Trebi in the direction of Cavadine.
With a nice view over the lake this crag offer
some nice routes.
Park at the right side of the road on a big lay
bay. Continue about 300 metres and turn right
just after a stone wall. It could be hard to see a
track but you will see the crag behind the wood
from the road.
Lago di Garda
Lago
di Garda
Garda
Costermano
Marciaga
Torri
Direction
Arco
P
P
Madonna del
Soccorso
Golf
area
Golf
area
Direction
Albisano,
Garda
Direction
Affi,
Castion
Marciaga
Keymap, Approach, Marciaga
Drive from Arco in the direction of Garda. Garda is a touristic
village with a lot of shopping, restaurants and bars. The whole
area is crowded during the spring, summer and autumn.
If you are flying from Milano it is a good crag to drive to at the
last day so that the highroad aint to far away.
This area offers a lot of easy climbing on slab or vertical crag.
Drive from Garda to Marciaga, continue and turn right in the
T-junction. Park at the car park near the Madonna del Soccorso
and walk to the crag (10-15 minutes).
1. Gnimo 5a
2. Zirichiltagghia 5a
3. Bamboline 6a
4. Hoherman spitze 5a
5. Police verde 5b
6. Traccanamenti 6a+
7. Aspettando Lul 5a
8. Cactus 6a
9. Scambiamoci le donne 6a+
10. Super Ciuk 6b+
11. Shalon 4b
1
5
6
3
4
7
2
10
9
8
11
Lago di Garda
21.1. Marciaga
Zirichittalgia sector
25 m.
South
Take me to 21.2. / 21.3. / 21.4. / 21.5. / 21.6.
1
5
6
3
4
7
2
10
9
8
11
18
15
14
13
12
20
19
17
16
1. Bombaso 3c 12. Graspia 4c
2. Petit pilier 4c 13. Che Stress 5c
3. Angevenesi 4c 14. La pulce nellorecchio 5c
4. Quelli del I C 3c 15. Gufo Triste 5b
5. Sognando California 5b 16. Bolle di sapone 7b
6. Bacche rosse 4b 17. Zucca mancante 5b
7. Old love 4b 18. Ricordi 5a
8. Tempesta 4c 19. Arbre magique 6a
9. Gavina 3a 20. Il signor Bla Bla 6a+
10. Ciao Efrem 4b
11. Whisky 5b
Lago di Garda
21.2. Marciaga
Graspia sector
South
Take me to 21.1. / 21.3. / 21.4. / 21.5. / 21.6.
1
5,
6 3
4
7
2
8
11,
12
15
14
13
17
16
21
20
19
18
6
10
9
12
1. Colori 6a 12. Mr. Verde 5b
2. Vaccadi 6c 13. Negus 4c
3. Vecchia luganega ? 14. Niet Pezolsky 4c
4. Biko 6a+ 15. Apparenza 5b
5. Sfinission 5b 16. Tappi e rattoppi 5c+
6. Il gobbo 6a 17. Incomprensioni 6a
7. Pilastro giallo 6b+ 18. Puzza di Pesce 6b
8. Mani di Fata 7a+ 19. Non Sparate sui Free 5a
9. Rombo ? 20. Napo Orso Capo 6a
10. W La Mamma ? 21. Do not disturb 6a
11. Oasi 5a
Lago di Garda
21.3. Marciaga
Negus sector
30 m.
South
Take me to 21.1. / 21.2. / 21.4. / 21.5. / 21.6.
1. Lilliput 7a
2. Piastine gialle 4b 14. Tanto per fare 6a
3. Cocco di Mamma 6a+ 15. Saluto al sole 5c
4. Arlecchina 5b 16. La tana de rospo 5b
5. Areofagia 6a+ 17. Babbo Natale 5c 26. Febbre gialla 6a+
6. Miciona bella 7a+ 18. Crumiri Biondi 4c 27. Approccio lassativo 6b+
7. Stato interessante 6c+ 19. Gabri 6c 28. ? ?
8. Orizzonti fotografici 4a 20. Pollicino 5b 29. Di tutto un p 5a
9. Lui e Cinzia 3a, 4b 21. ? ? 30. W le donne 4b
10. Palestrina 4a 22. Che Bellezza 7a 31. Va Ben 5a
11. Prima della nascita 4c 23. Bella Tonda 6c+ 32. Via Vai 4b
12. Guai in vista 6a+ 24. I Veci Rimba 6a
13. Magic moment 6a+ 25. Terry Violenta 6b+
1
5
3
4
7
2
11
14
13
17
20
19
6
10
12
24,
25,
26
27,
28
15
16
18
8
9
30
32 31
21
22
23
28
24
25
26
29
Lago di Garda
21.4. Marciaga
Aerofagia sector
South
Take me to 21.1. / 21.2. / 21.3. / 21.5. / 21.6.
1
5
3
4
7
2
11
14 13
6
10
12
8
9
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
1. Ginevra 4a 12. Pizzamiglio 4b
2. Annalisa 4b 13. Glasnost 5a
3. Fata turchina 4c 14. Che Pica 5c
4. Cavallo rosso 4b 15. Lupo Rolandino 6a+
5. Il futuro ha 4c 16. Boulder problem 7a+
6. Carolina 4c 17. Anchorage 6b
7. Frenesia 5c 18. Barbara B. 5a
8. Excalibur 6a 19. A-frodite 5b
9. Nonna Belarda 6a+ 20. Lorelei 4a
10. Bob Rock 4a 21. Marciagantropia 5b
11. Willy 4a
Lago di Garda
21.5. Marciaga
Cavallino rosso sector
25 m.
South
Take me to 21.1. / 21.2. / 21.3. / 21.4. / 21.6.
1. Perongi 4a
2. Nuvola Bianci 4b
3. La Beffa del destino 5c
4. Nero su bianco 6a
5. Zio Billy 4a
6. Tempo Duri 5a
7. Paturnie 4b
8. Orlando furioso 4b
9. Criminal 4a
10. Barbagianni 4b
11. Gekki 4b
12. Dedicata a Laura 4c
1
5
3
4
7
2
6
10
8
9
12
11
Lago di Garda
21.6. Marciaga
Per Laura sector
25 m.
South
Take me to 21.1. / 21.2. / 21.3. / 21.4. / 21.5.
Lago di Garda
Lago di Garda
Verona
Direction
Milano
Direction
Venezia
Direction
Trento
Stallavena
Direction
Bosco
Chiesanuova
Stallavena
Chiesa
Alcenago
Keymap, Approach, Stallavena
Drive from Stallavena in the direction of Alcenago, Vigo. After about 1 km, in the T-
junction, continue trough the hairpin in the direction of the Church. Park at the car park
outside the cementery. Walk back to the first hairpin and continue straight forward on
the track by the power line. Walk down between the crags, turn right if you are going
to climb any of the routes 1 to 50, to the left for the rest.
A nice crag, a lot of easy climbing. During weekends, when Arco is crowded, a trip to
Stallvena could be an opportunity to experience a less touristic part of the area.
1
3
2
Lago di Garda
1. La prima 3+
2. Spigoletto 3+
3. Spigoletto di DX. 4-
22.1. Stallavena
25 m.
East
Take me to 22.2. / 22.3. / 22.4. / 22.5. / 22.6. / 22.7. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
1. Ripper 5a 10. Lele 4-
2. Via da Turri 6b 11. Sajanora extra 5a
3. Snackaplak 5a 12. Toffa Pungente 5b
4. Pollicino 4+ 13. Panciolite 5b
5. Indiani Metropolitan 5a 14. Non picchiatemi 6a
6. Attenti a quei due 5b 15. Zanzi banzi 5c
7. Broppa 6a
8. Ada 4
9. Sperone 4-
1
7
6
5
4
3
2
12 11
10
9
8
14
13
15
22.2. Stallavena
30 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.3. / 22.4. / 22.5. / 22.6. / 22.7. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
1
7
6
5
4
3
2
12
11
10
9
8
14 13
15
18
17
16
1. Corna e bicorna 5b 10. Spigolo Giallo 5b
2. Mamy 5b 11. Felipe se Sudas 6a
3. Tira e tasi 5c 12. Placca fredda 6a
4. Mavvas 6a 13. Gran diedro 5a
5.Dito del Diavolo 5c 14. Riflessi di settembre 5c
6. Fiaba del mare 6a+ 15. My friend Socky 6b+
7. Verona 6a 16. Placca della famiglia Felice 6b
8. Perlotto ? 17. Via del Ciba 5c
9. Gialla ? 18. Dulfer 5b
22.3. Stallavena
30 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.2. / 22.4. / 22.5. / 22.6. / 22.7. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
1
7 6
5
4
3 2
12
11 10 9
8
14
13
15
16
19
18
17
1. Dulfer 5b
2. Alcazar 5c
3. Anatomic 6a+
4. Riccioli doro 5b
5. Orzowall 5c
6. Ferratina 5c
7. Diamanti di Sara 5c
8. Ciabatta pazza 5c
9. Gianni e fafifurni 6a
10. Obliqua 5a
11. Mandrillomaniaque 5c
12. Mamas gang 6a
13. Rovereto 6a
14. Messaggeri del teschio 6c+
15. Gran strapiombo 6c
16. Apprendisa stregone 6b
17. Primi passi 6a+
18. Rien ne va plus 6c+
19. LSD 6a
22.4. Stallavena
25 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.2. / 22.3. / 22.5. / 22.6. / 22.7. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
1
5
4
3
2
1. Diedrino alto 3+
2. Diedrino 4-
3. Placca peuterey 5c
4. Placca Arf 5c
5. Uagamma 4
22.5. Stallavena
30 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.2. / 22.3. / 22.4. / 22.6. / 22.7. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
1
7
4,5,6
3
2
11 9,10
1. Sette nani 5c 7. Venezia 5b
2. Profumo di provenza 5c 8. ? 4+
3. Delise Brut 6a+ 9. Pulpito 4+
4. Alce nero 5c 10. Fessurone 5c
5. Peruviana 4- 11. Arramak 6a
6. Alcenago 5c
8
6
22.6. Stallavena
35 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.2. / 22.3. / 22.4. / 22.5. / 22.7. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
1
7
3
2
10
9
8
6
4
5
1. Placca sgobbi 5b
2. Stella 4+
3. Longa 4
4. Attaco 4+
5. Quando il cielo non pi blu 5a
6. Meditate gente 5b
7. Bufera 5b
8. Bufera variant 5b
9. Le voyage des Beppos 5c
10. Via degli alpini 5b
22.7. Stallavena
50 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.2. / 22.3. / 22.4. / 22.5. / 22.6. / 22.8.
Lago di Garda
8. Signori degli inganni 6b+
9. Albero 5b
10. Via delle Grole 6b+
1. Mickey Mouse 5c 11. Firenze 5/A2
2. Cest plus facile 6b+ 12. Diedro Giallo 5c
3. Nonno zomp 6c 13. Danielona e belzeb 6a
4. Brazil 6a 14. Squaqquaci 5b
5. Nasok 5c 15. Isapepp 5b
6. Sgriffalda Sgraffame 6a+ 16. Cynder track 5b
7. SuperBilly 5c 17. Chiodi neri 5a
1
7 3 2
10
9
8
6
4
5
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
22.8. Stallavena
50 m.
East
Take me to 22.1. / 22.2. / 22.3. / 22.4. / 22.5. / 22.6. / 22.7.

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