GP Buggies Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL GP BEACH BUGGY & GP SUPER BUGGY MK 3 2000

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Index

INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR GP BEACH BUGGY & GP SUPER BUGGY

Our kits are designed with the home constructor in mind, the quality of build allowing for a construction time of under 120 hours! Here you will find a complete set of instructions on how to turn your donor VW beetle into a head-turning, street legal buggy! THE GP BUGGY IS ONE OF THE FEW KIT CARS EXEMPT FROM THE GOVERNMENT S.V.A. TEST IN THE UK!!!

What you need to do the job Choosing a suitable donor VW Beetle Stripping the donor VW down to the chassis Shortening the chassis *[for SWB GP Beach Buggy only]
Part A: Removing Components from the rolling chassis Part B: Part C: Measuring up and cutting the chassis METHOD ONE - DIAGONAL TUNNEL Measuring up and cutting the chassis METHOD TWO - DIAGONAL FLOORPAN

Part D: Removal of the 400mm section & Welding it back together

Preparing the chassis Mounting your GP body to the chassis Fitting optional components Final checks and your on the way to an MOT!

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CH 1 - Tools Required

What you need to do the job

As both GP Buggy Kits are designed for home construction, there are no specialist tools required to complete your car, except for any VW tools you may need to work on the mechanics of the donor vehicle. We would recommend the following: TOOLS
A HAYNES manual for the donor VW model A complete METRIC spanner & socket set, 6 - 19mm A 36mm Socket (Rear Brake drum nut & flywheel) A drill with a selection of HSS drill bits Grips, screwdrivers, hacksaw etc A MIG welder (for shortening/reconditioning chassis) A grinder (for tidying up welding/cutting chassis to shorten) 2 saw horses, planks and blocks/axle stands/ trolley jack (to support the chassis when shortening) A chisel, tape measure, protractor & masking tape (for chassis shortening) A Sabre saw (optional for chassis shortening)

PARTS

M8, M6 Bolts and Nuts 4 or 5mm plate steel for producing brackets Self-tapping screws

And somewhere to do it - access to a pit or ramp helps, but it is not essential - most of our customers have done it in their own home garages or on their drives!

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CH 2 - Choosing Donor

Choosing a suitable donor VW Beetle

Please check the guidance given here to ensure you have a suitable vehicle for your buggy... Which Model? GP kits are designed to fit the torsion bar front suspension chassis of the Type 1 VW Beetle, which includes all standard models except the 1302, 1302S, 1303 and 1303S. These can still be used, although it involves changing the whole MacPherson strut front end for a new chassis frame head to hold the torsion bar front, plus a flat fuel tank. This is certainly worth the extra effort, as this will give you the vastly superior double jointed independent rear suspension (IRS) for better roadholding. What Age? Any age of Beetle can be used, although a 1961 or later is preferable and best of all is a post-1967 with 12V electrics, ball-joints and 4 stud wheel hubs. This has the benefit of components being more plentiful and also cheaper than those from earlier models. Later 4 stud hubs have better brakes, plus early 5 stud wide wheels are now difficult to obtain and banded wheels are now illegal! Donor Chassis or Complete Car? Its up to you, as each has its pros and cons! Obviously, starting from a donor car means that time has to be spent removing the body first, which may then reveal problems not inherant originally on the chassis. However, as the GP Buggy utilises many parts from the original car, these are already to hand, plus you will have the opportunity to test various parts of the car (i.e. the brakes, engine and transmission). A rolling chassis will be cheaper to acquire and allow a quicker build time, although several items (i.e. the guages, switches, windscreen wiper assembly etc.) will have to be purchased seperately. If you intend to use customised items to finish your car, rather than re-utilising stock VW items from a donor car, then a rolling chassis is a good option, but starting with a complete donor car gives you the piece of mind of a fully working vehicle beforehand.
Complete donor car

The choice is up to you!

Rolling chassis

What should I look for?

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CH 2 - Choosing Donor

Whether choosing a complete donor car or a rolling chassis and whether it is a wreck or not, always check the following:
1] The floorpan, torsion bar and front bulkhead for accident damage/repair, corrosion, cracks, bends and excessive wear in the steering. 2] The front and rear suspension for bent trailing arms, wheel bearing play, worn ball joints and worn shock absorbers. 3] The transaxle for leaks and cracks in the casing. 4] The engine for oil leaks, cracks in the crankcase and seizure if it hasn't been run for some time.

Any repairs should be carried out BEFORE fitting the GP Buggy kit - and if it doubt about the condition of the donor chassis - or your own ability to correct any defects then don't use it!

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CH 3 - Stripping Donor Car

Stripping the donor VW down to the chassis

[REFER TO THE HAYNES MANUAL FOR EXACT GUIDANCE ON REMOVING COMPONENTS FROM YOUR PARTICULAR DONOR MODEL] Components Dissassembling the VW Beetle is pretty straightforward, with the following parts needing to be removed and KEPT SAFELY for completing your GP Buggy:
1] Battery strap and cover.

2] The steering column. Start by removing the clamping bolt at the bottom end of the shaft, then remove the 2 bolts and clamp at the upper end that holds the column to the underside of the dashboard. The whole steering column can then be pulled out complete. Save the rubber grommets at each end (top one in the shaft and bottom one through the body).

**Care must be taken so that the column is not bent in any way during removal - these can often be a sod to get out and resorting to strong tactics can end up in damage!**
3]Internal Instruments - the speedometer, speedometer cable, ignition switch complete, light switch complete, windscreen wiper motor, assembly and switch complete, fuel gauge and sender cable, rear light units and front indicators which can all be re-used if so desired in your GP Buggy. Remember to mark up electrical connections!

4] Wiring loom complete - if you intend to re-use it. Again, remember to mark up electrical connections! (We would suggest however that a complete new loom is installed, which we can supply).

5] Petrol tank and cap. Keep the 4 retaining bolts for use later.

6] Brake reservoir and connecting pipes.

Disassembly Once all the above items have been removed and stored safely, the body is ready for removal from the chassis. The body is simply held on by a series of bolts running around the outside of the floorpans underneath the car and beneath the rear seats. Undo these and keep safely along with their rectangular washers. Next, remove the 2 x 10mm bolts and rubber pads that secure the body to the top of the front axle beam (these are accessable through the inspection hatch at the rear of the front spare wheel well). The body can now be simply lifted off the car - the more people there are to do this the better! Obviously, lessen the weight as much as possible by removing the bonnet, deck lid, doors and glass first if you have to! After all - you're not gonna need them anymore - and if they're in good condition, you could get some money for them. And there you have it - one VW rolling chassis ready to fit your GP Buggy body to!

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CH 3 - Stripping Donor Car

[If you are building the SWB GP Beach Buggy, now proceed to Section 4 on how to Shorten your chassis, or for those constructing the LWB GP Super Buggy, you can get straight on to Section 5,Chassis preparation.]

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

Shortening the chassis *[for SWB GP Beach Buggy only]

[AGAIN REFER TO THE HAYNES MANUAL FOR EXACT GUIDANCE ON REMOVING COMPONENTS FROM YOUR PARTICULAR DONOR MODEL] A/ Removing Components from the rolling chassis A-1] With the bodywork removed from the floorpan, you now have a complete rolling chassis on which to work. The first thing to do then is to remove the engine and this is simply done by undoing the 4 x 17mm engine bolts that attach it to the transaxle. (Yeah, yeah I know it sounds simpler than it often is!!) Next, the gearbox must be removed to lighten the chassis enough for manouvering when you have cut it.

A-2] Then the following components have to be removed from the chassis (and kept safely!):
a) The complete pedal assembly, throttle cable and clutch cable. b) The battery earth and hold down straps. c) The handbrake assembly. Slacken off the handbrake cables and remove from lever, then do the same for the heat exchanger cables. The handbrake is connected simply by a pin held in position by a circlip - don't lose it! d) The gearlever assembly. Undo the 2 x 13mm bolts and lift out.(When removing the gearlever, note the position of the shift guide plate that incorporates the reverse lock-out to ensure it goes back in exactly the same position, if you intend to re-use the stock VW gear shifter.) e) The rear oval tunnel access cover. f) The front tunnel access cover, situated behind the front axle beam.

Removal of the front cover access plate gives access to the gear selector rod.

A-3] Next, the gear level selector rod must be removed from the tunnel. Firstly, undo the coupling to the gearbox linkage, now exposed by removal of the rear access cover. Remove this bolt as shown.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

Undoing the gear selector rod coupling.

The gear selector rod assembly can now be completely removed from the tunnel, by drawing it out through the front access cover. A-4] Now the main brake line must be removed. Start at the rear, where it joins the 'T' fitting on the chassis and disconnect it. Then, bend open all the tabs along the left side of the floor tunnel, that keep it in position - from the rear up to the vicinity of the handbrake.

Bending tabs out of the way to enable removal of the brake line.

The rubber grommets at the rear, where the line goes through the chassis can now be removed. The whole line can then be extracted through the hole and gently bent forward out of the way towards the pedals, but don't kink it. (If the condition of the brake line looks suspect in any way, then ensure it is replaced.) A-5] The next step is to pull out both the handbrake cables and heat exchanger cables from the rear of the tunnel. If you have trouble locating them through the rear access panel, it can be enlargened with a hacksaw, but ensure you do not make the whole bigger than the cover plate! A good idea is to use the cover as a template, and scribe around it on the tunnel. Then measure approximately 15mm in from the line to mark the outline of the metal to be removed, ensuring enough is left surrounding the clutch and throttle guide tubes on the passenger side.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

A-6] The cable conduits behind the rear access panel now need to be loosened from the chassis as they exit the rear of the transmission tunnel. They are welded in place, and these welds need to be broken, so they will simply be pushed through when the chassis is shortened. At the same time, measure the amount they poke through so you will be able to cut the tubes back to this length when you have shortened the chassis.

Break the welds where the cable conduit channels attach to the chassis at the rear.

A-7] The 2 jacking points can now be removed from the chassis, either by breaking the welds or cutting to remove the mounts completely, or by simply hacksawing off the ends in line with the outside edge of the floorpan. A-8] The floorpan gasket can then be stripped off the outer perimeter of the chassis. A-9] Finally, unless you are going to re-use them, the VW seat runners can now be removed from the floorpan. Don't worry about any holes made at this time, as they can be welded up later. A-10] The chassis now needs to be cleaned up as much as possible, in preparation for cutting. The sound deadening material around the centre tunnel and floorpan has to be removed, to prevent it catching fire when cutting and welding up the floorpan. It is best cleaned off using a good chisel. There are several methods available to shorten the chassis - and we trust the 2 given here are both simple enough to follow our guidelines to - and should prove the least difficult to undertake. They are by no means the only methods, so feel free to use any others that you may be familiar with.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

B/

Measuring up the chassis & cutting the 400mm section out: METHOD ONE

DIAGONAL CUT TO TUNNEL METHOD

*** It must be stressed at this point that only proceed with the cutting of the chassis if you are confident in your ability to do so. If you are unsure of being able to correctly carry out the procedure, then get an experienced person do it for you - it may be additional cost, but it will mean that you are left with a usable chassis on which to complete your GP Beach Buggy.*** Before you eagerly launch in with the hacksaw, please do remember the GOLDEN RULE OF MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE! Also ensure that you are working on a level floor and never start cutting or welding until you are 100% sure of what you are about to do. Spend as much time and care as possible in measuring so that when you cut there will be no unforseen problems! THE SHORTENING DISTANCE IS: 400mm (15 3/4")

CUTTING THE CHASSIS - DIAGONAL TUNNEL The method we have set out here involves cutting straight across the floorpan, then coming up the side of the tunnel at a 30 degree angle BACKWARDS (to the vertical), before going straight across the top of the tunnel and repeating on the other side. This allows for the longest weld area at the strongest point and caters for the taper in the tunnel. B-1] The first measurement to make is 30mm behind the handbrake support bracket on the top of the tunnel. For accuracy, a thin piece of sheet metal, measuring at least 100mm wide by 300mm long, can be bent around the tunnel to scribe against. Mark a line across the tunnel top. B-2] Next, measure 400mm back and scribe a second line across the tunnel. Use masking tape to mark your lines, with the lines on the outside of each piece of tape (i.e. both pieces of tape are on the piece to be cut out).

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

Ensure your measurements are accurate and that the tape is on the inside of the measurements.

B-3] Now, take a 30 degree angle down and FORWARDS from each mark and scribe down each side of the tunnel to the floorpan. You can check your accuracy, as of course the 2 marks where the lines meet the floorpan should be 400mm apart as well, on each side. The exact angle doesn't have to be bang-on 30 degrees, so long as the 2 lines are parallel.

By cutting an angle forwards on the tunnel, a stronger join is made, with the front sliding over the back.

B-4] Now scribe 2 parallel lines straight across each floorpan, again ensuring accuracy by checking that the 2 marks are 400mm apart on the outside of each floorpan.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

Shaded section to be removed (not to scale!)

B-5] Now you can begin to cut - BUT DOUBLE CHECK ALL MEASUREMENTS FIRST! B-6] The first cut is across the top of the tunnel at both front and back marks but THIS MUST BE DONE VERY CAREFULLY, SO NOT TO CUT THE CABLE CONDUITS THAT ARE SITUATED ALONG THE TOP OF THE TUNNEL.

When cutting the top of the tunnel, don't go too deep to start with - as there are cable conduits underneath!

B-7] With the two cuts made, carefully cut along the sides of the tunnel between the two marks, to enable the top of the tunnel lid to be lifted off, exposing the cable tubes. However, if the tunnel top cannot be easily removed, there may be a conduit fastened to the underneath of it. If this is so, other cuts can be made in the section to be removed, all the while inspecting underneath, by carefully prising the lid up until you are able to unfasten the tubes without damage.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

Be careful when removing the top of the tunnel, as the guide conduits are often attached by clips to the underside of it.

B-8] Unless the heat exchangers are to be retained on your buggy, the heater cable guide tubes can be cut and removed at this point - but do ensure you get the right ones - and not the handbrake cable guide tubes at the top! [NOW PROCEED TO SECTION 4 Part D Final Cut & Removing the 400mm section.]

C/

Measuring up the chassis & cutting the 400mm section out: METHOD TWO

DIAGONAL CUT TO FLOORPAN METHOD

*** It must be stressed at this point that only proceed with the cutting of the chassis if you are confident in your ability to do so. If you are unsure of being able to correctly carry out the procedure, then get an experienced person do it for you - it may be additional cost, but it will mean that you are left with a usable chassis on which to complete your GP Beach Buggy.*** Before you eagerly launch in with the hacksaw, please do remember the GOLDEN RULE OF MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE! Also ensure that you are working on a level floor and never start cutting or welding until you are 100% sure of what you are about to do. Spend as much time and care as possible in measuring so that when you cut there will be no unforseen problems! THE SHORTENING DISTANCE IS: 400mm (15 3/4")

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

CUTTING THE CHASSIS The second method of cutting the chassis is to use DIAGONAL cuts across the floorpan and a straight cut across the tunnel. When the 2 halves of the chassis are matched up, a dart template is used to cut out spare metal from the chassis to compensate for where the floorpan has a more narrow front section, than the rear end which will be wider - see APPENDIX DIAGRAM.) C-1] Using the rear of the four seat tracks as a starting point, scribe a line in a diagonal chevron across the floorpan. To secure accuracy, a piece of thin sheet metal, at least 100mm wide by 350mm long can be bent around the tunnel to scribe against. The lowest portions of the floor should be scribed with the help of a straight piece of wood cut to fit.

Ensure your measurements are accurate when measuring up!

C-2] Next, make a stick exactly 400mm long (be sure the ends are cut square). This will be used to layout the second line across the floorpan. Using the 400mm stick as a measure, place one end even with, and at right angles to, the first line scribed just behind the seat tracks. At the opposite end of the stick, scribe a small mark. Continue doing this from one side of the floorpan, over the tunnel and to the opposite side.

Ensure the lines are PARALLEL when marking out the diagonal chevron across the floorpan.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

C-3] Now, using the sheet metal and the straight wood from the first line, scribe through the marks completing the second line. These two lines 400mm apart, indicate the section to be removed from your floorpan. (Additonally, there will be two darts taken from the rear corners of the floorpan to accomplish a straight line along each side - see APPENDIX DIAGRAM.)

Shaded section to be removed (not to scale!)

C-4]Next, cut the lines on the tunnel only, making sure you do not cut any of the control tubes inside. Now, remove this section of the tunnel by cutting along the lower corners between the previous two cuts. If the tunnel top cannot easily be removed, there may be control tubes still fastened to it inside. If this is so, other cuts can be made in the section to be removed, all the while inspecting underneath, by carefully prising the lid up until you are able to unfasten the tubes without damage.

When cutting the top of the tunnel, don't go too deep to start with - as there are cable conduits underneath!

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

C-5] With the control tubes exposed, you will find that the two tubes nearest the top lead to the handbrake. Hacksaw these tubes off, directly behind the handbrake opening, or even with the rear of the seat tracks. Sometimes it is necessary to braze these remaining short tubes back onto the bracket just under the handbrake opening, as they will be loose and inadequate to become handbrake cable guides. By reaching through the enlarged rear access hole,the handbrake tubes can be cut near the torsion bar housing. (Older models pass under the torsion bar housing, and later models pass over the top.)

Be careful when removing the top of the tunnel, as the guide conduits are often attached by clips to the underside of it.

C-6] Next, cut the heater cable guide tubes, front and back, as they will no longer be used unless you intend to retain the original heating system in your completed buggy. If you look just inside the rear access hole, you will see where the throttle, clutch, and on early models the choke guide tubes, pass through the left side,and are welded to the floorpan. You need to release these, first measuring the distance that the clutch tube protrudes beyond the chassis. When you come to rewelding - this distance must be the same! When you are happy, cut through the welds so the tubes are unfastened from the chassis. [NOW PROCEED TO SECTION 4 Part D Final Cut & Removing the 400mm section.]

D/

Removal of the 400mm section & Welding it back together

D-1] BEFORE CONTINUING, NOW IS THE TIME TO SUPPORT EACH END OF THE CHASSIS, JUST OUTSIDE THE CUT LINES, IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE 400mm SECTION. D-2] Now continue the 2 cuts down the tunnel sides following the lines you have made, but do not continue across the floorpan yet! Before these long cuts, the underside of the tunnel has to be cut - and don't fall foul of forgetting to do it like many people have in the past! A Hacksaw is the best tool for this and again make sure you avoid the control conduits! D-3] When you are happy with the tunnel bottom cut, continue the cuts from the sides of the tunnel to the outer edge of the floorpan, either straight or at an angle (depending on which method you have used). For safety stop approximately 50mm from the edge to leave some support whilst each long cut is made. A sabre saw is ideal for this is you have one or can beg/borrow or steal one! Otherwise it's some hard work with a hacksaw or an angle grinder.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

A sabre saw makes the floorpan cuts a lot easier if you can get your hands on one.

D-4] NOW SUPPORT THE SECTION TO BE REMOVED BEFORE CONTINUING CUTTING. Finally, cut the edges of the floorpan to remove the 400mm section. As you have removed the top of the tunnel, it can be simply dropped out leaving the conduits exposed and undamaged. . and sit back and admire your handiwork! There's no going back now! The repositioning of the 2 halves can be easily accomplished with a pair of axle stands supporting the rear half of the car and a trolley jack under the front half to move it into position. D-5] Bring the 2 halves of the car together so the front half of the tunnel simply slides over the back half into alignment. If you followed METHOD 1 , The guide conduits, having been earlier released from the chassis at the rear of the tunnel, will simply move back through the tunnel and poke out 400mm longer at the back, although they will probably need someone to guide them at this point. You should now be able to see how much of the rear outer edge corners of the floorpan will need to be cut down, due to the chassis being slightly wider on the rear section. If your measurements are accurate the 2 halves will meet with very little grinding or hammer work to get a perfect fit where the gaps at the outer edge of the floorpan can just be welded up, with spare sheet metal from the cut-out section. If you followed METHOD 2 , see section D-7] for instructions on using the dart template to cut out the surpus part of the floorpan. D-6] Once you are happy, use a few tack welds, about 100mm apart, leaving about 200 mm unwelded on the outside edge of the floorpans. This should hold everything in place, so you can check alignment, squareness and lengthwise and diagonal measurements, to ensure that you have not inadvertently put a twist in the chassis while working. Double-check everything NOW, by trial fitting the body to chassis gasket and placing the GP Beach Buggy body tub on top -this will also allow you to accurately shape the outer side of the floorpan correctly at the join line.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

D-7] Once you are happy with everything, strengthen the welding by adding additional tack welds between the ones already made. Now is the time to use the dart template to measure how much metal has to be removed to compensate for the mis-aligning of the floorpan edges see APPENDIX DIAGRAM.) The dart template should be cut out and copied onto light sheet metal. Place your -sheet metal template with point 'A' on the aft corner of the floorpan, and point 'B' unwelded on the outside edge of the floorpan. The template edge 'B-C' should align with the previously cut edge of the aft floorpan section. Scribe onto the floorpan around the inboard edge of the template from point 'A' to point 'C'. Use a small square to ensure a perpendicular projection down into the deepest area of the floorpan. While maintaining point 'A' swing the 'B-C' end of the template inward until the templates outside edge 'A-B' aligns itself with the outside edge of the forward section of the floorpan. Again, scribe around the inboard 'A-B' edge of the template using the small square where needed to project downward onto the floorpan. These two scribed lines indicate the dart to be removed. Remove the dart , which will completely disconnect the rear corner of the floorpan. When rewelding the rear corners of the floorpan back into position, make sure to align with the front section of the floorpan to both fore and aft, and sideways dimensions. There will be a small remaining hole to be filled by a piece trimmed from the 400mm section of the floorpan, which you have already cut away. D-8] If it's all OK, complete the welding with a further series of tack welds approximately 120mm apart along the entire length of the cut. Then complete the welding proper, working from side to side and never in one spot for any length of time, to avoid distortion. D-9] Do not forget the underneath of the tunnel, which is best left to the end, when the chassis can be tipped onto its side and rested on the wheels to do this. D-10] From your earlier measurements (see section 6), you should now be able to cut down the cable conduits protuding at the back down to size, shortening by 400mm. Once this is done, the conduits can all be spot-tacked back onto the chassis at the rear of the tunnel. D-11] All cables and linkages must now be shortened by 400mm before replacement. (The use of a shortening kit for this is highly recommended - which we can supply.) The accelerator cable is best cut at the exposed end above the transmission, where the terminal block adapter will not interfere with anything. D-12] Shortening of the gear lever linkage tube has to be done extremely carefully, to ensure that the 2 halves are rejoined in perfect alignment. Measure a 400mm section to be cut out of the rear straight portion of the linkage tube. Make 2 marks 400mm apart, and with the tube on a flat surface, scribe a line along the tube and parallel to its axis that bisects the two marks, to ensure there is no rotation when the two halves are rejoined. Remove the 400mm section with a hacksaw, make certain the line along the side is perfectly re-aligned, then weld the 2 halves back together. D-13] Be sure to grease the gearlever and bushing freely when re-installing, remembering the position of the shift guide plate (see section 2) for the reverse lock out, if you are re-using the stock VW gearlever.

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CH 4 - Chassis Shortening

D-14] When re-installing the main brake line through the hole in the back of the chassis, ensure that it is correctly seated using the grommets and tabs along the floorpan and not kinked in any way. And there you go - one shortened chassis - easy wasn't it?!

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CH 5 - Chassis Preparation

Preparing the chassis

Now that you have your chassis ready to go, it is a good idea to take the opportunity to recondition it before mounting the body. Any parts that are damaged in any way, or are even slightly suspect should be REPLACED at this point. This cannot be stressed enough, as it is vital to ensure that all moving parts are in a condition to withstand any off-roading abuse that you may feel inclined to put your buggy to! (And we all know how irresitible that feeling is!) Also, with the addition of wide wheels and an uprated engine, then your chassis and working parts - suspension and braking system - MUST be in good condition. The most important items to look out for are: 1) The 3 transaxle rubber mountings - check these are in good condition. If in doubt - replace them NOW as it's a lot easier with the gearbox already removed! You may wish to consider an aftermarket HEAVY DUTY transaxle strap to go with the mountings - this is especially important on a shortened chassis to minimise gearbox movement and assist in correct gear selection with any aftermarket "fast" shifters. If you intend to off-road, uprated mountings are a MUST! 2) The rubber axle boots - check for leaks and tears - these are easily replaced with the aftermarket split type. 3) The complete braking system - master cylinder, rigid and flexible brake pipes, wheel cylinders, shoes and drums. If you are using the older 5 stud drums, then you may wish to consider the more modern 4 stud ones. Not only are 4 stud wide wheels more readily available (although you could use adapters), but the brake shoes are larger for better braking. TIP: On the standard VW Beetle, the wheel cylinders are larger at the front for front-biased braking. You may wish to swap them to the back to compensate for larger tyres on your off-road monster! 4) The rear axle outer oil seals for leakage - check for the tell-tale signs of oil drips on the hubs or streaks on the inside of the wheel rim. The replacement kits are only about 5 from any VW garage and simple to fit. 5) The front wheel bearings - inspect and repack with grease. 6) The front and rear suspension - check for excessive wear and tear, the shock absorbers for leaks and worn bushes. If replacing with aftermarket shocks, especially stiffer ones for off-roading, DO bear in mind that your finished GP Buggy will be considerable lighter than a normal car - and if you make the suspension too stiff, it can make for a rather hard ride! 7) The steering assembly - check for excessive play and correct lubrication. Very often the damper may be worn or leaking, especially if from a particularly high-mileage donor vehicle. 8) Any holes or damage anywhere on the chassis. Now is the time to weld everything up that could possibly need doing, including fitting new seat runners in position if you are relacing the stock VW ones. Once you are content that the rolling chassis is servicable, remove any remaining insulation from the floorpan and tunnel and treat the whole works to a coat of rust-proof paint. We would recommend a product such as Hammerite, which although expensive, does do a very good job. It also comes in spray cans for getting to those awkward areas. Ensure any loose rust is removed,
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CH 5 - Chassis Preparation

and give the chassis a good rub-down before applying, so that there is a firm key for it to adhere to. For a truly professional finish, you may wish to have the chassis blasted clean before painting, and even properly spray painted with a Zinc coating or underbody sealer such as Schutz or Waxoil. Some clients decide at this point to really go to town by chroming the torsion bar, painting parts of the chassis in their final car colour, gold-plating the gearbox and all sorts of tricks..... Oh - and don't forget to put the gearbox and engine back in!!!

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CH 6 - Mounting the GP Body onto the Chassis

Mounting your GP body to the chassis

Finally you can get to the fun bit - the actual construction of your GP Buggy, once you are positive that your chassis is prepared and all unservicable parts have been replaced! 1] The new body to chassis gasket can now be fitted to the floorpan, sealed down using a proprietary car body sealant (we would recommend a good quality one such as TIGER SEAL which although pretty expensive, sticks to anything!) 2] Next, place your GP Buggy body tub on top of the chassis and ensure you have got it correctly positioned. Using the M8 x 30mm bolts supplied with the Starter Kit, you can now start bolting the body on. Drill 8mm holes up through the holes already in the floorpan, a couple on each side to start with to ensure the body is straight. Use the rectangular VW washers underneath as before and the large flat washers that come with the kit, above. When you are happy with the first few, continue bolting the body on all the way round. If you find at any point that the original holes in the chassis are beyond the bulkhead of the body tub, then do not use them (this certainly may be the case at the rear of the car) - drill new ones instead. Complete the body fitment by again using a sealant all the way around the join - both inside and out. 3] The VW petrol tank can now be positioned in the front of the chassis. There are 2 ways to fit the tank, so read the whole of this section before proceeding. You will notice that in the GP Buggy, the tank is angled downwards at quite a steep angle - and dependent on the year of the donor vehicle that it came from - it may not actually fit! This can be overcome by some careful trimming around the edges of the tank opening, but you may also find that it fouls the steering gear below, whichever way you turn it round! Don't worry as there are a couple of solutions to this - and (before you ask) - no, it's not a design fault - the tank has to be modified to fit, otherwise the bonnet line could not be kept as it is! Plus, with so many sizes of VW Type 1 petrol tanks over the years, it is very difficult to cater for every one! So, to get your tank to fit - there's only one way to do it, namely "to modify the profile with a mallet" (to quote our old instruction manual) - i.e. bashing in the parts that get in the way! Check which way round is the best fit, then looking underneath to see where the steering gear gets in the way, you can re-shape the tank to fit. Before doing this however, a decision must be made over the position of the filler neck for the tank. There are 3 basic positions on standard VW Type 1 tanks: a) Pre-1961 tanks have the filler neck in the middle. These are best used as they are, in POSITION 2 (See below). b) 1961-1967 tanks have the filler neck to the lower left corner (looking forward on the car). These style of tanks can be used as they are in POSITION 1 or modified for use in POSITION 2. c) Post-1967 tanks have the filler neck in the upper right corner (looking forward on the car). These types will have to be modified to either POSITION 1 or POSITION 2. POSITION 1 This involves having the filler neck to the lower left-hand corner, sticking through the bonnet next to the headlight. On a 1961-1967 tank, this is where the filler neck already is; on all others, they will have to be modified. Trial fit the tank to work out the position needed for the neck to stick through the bonnet, then cut out a hole to the full size of the neck plus 6mm. The breather tube on a standard neck will need clipping short - to enable the bonnet to slip over - and then

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CH 6 - Mounting the GP Body onto the Chassis

sealed off to prevent petrol leakage. Another breather tube will need fitting to the tank, by drilling a hole at the top and making up a tube to run down from the tank. Place the tank in position and drill holes to attach the retaining bolts. Check they are correct with a trial fit, but DO NOT tighten them up as the tank will have to be removed again later. Make sure the filler neck is centred in the hole you have made in the bonnet at this point. A rubber sealing neck can be used to hide the metal tube sticking through - either purchased or we have heard of them made up from axle boots! Either the standard VW filler cap can be used, or an aftermarket chrome assembly can be fitted to really look the business! (A company such as Europa in the UK supplies a wide range of locking chromed filler caps and accessories for fitting.) POSITION 2 The second position is at the top of the tank, above the sender unit, in the middle of the bonnet. There is certainly an advantage to this as its elevated position gives an additional couple of gallons capacity. This position involves either having an elongated neck fitted, so that the actual filler cap is above the bonnet, or having a short one under the bonnet, accessed through a dummy aircraft-style filler cap attached to the bonnet. The choice is up to you! Whichever way you decide, remove the original filler neck carefully, and fill up the old hole - either by welding or using a proprietry petrol tank filler/bonder. The neck can then be used to scribe around on the tank in the position you want, before cutting a hole and then bonding/welding the neck on in the new position. (Again, a company such as Europa in the UK supplies a wide range of locking chromed filler caps/ aircraft-style filler caps and accessories for fitting.) ** Do take care when working on an old petrol tank - it can be extremely dangerous unless the tank has been thoroughly cleaned before any cutting or welding is performed. We would suggest a rigorous steam cleaning to remove ALL traces of fuel before any modifications are begun. If you are in ANY doubt whatsoever about the safety of working on a petrol tank, seek professional advice or get somebody experienced to do it for you ** Finally, due to the tank being fitted an angle - and not flat as originally in a VW Beetle, it is a good idea to modify the fuel feeder line from the bottom of the tank to compensate. Simply, unscrew the fitting and remove the original pipe and using some copper fuel pipe, cut a section to stick through the hole, angled down and bent forwards to the lowest level in the petrol tank. It is a good idea to braze the fitting to prevent against leakage. 4] Once the petrol tank is in position, the brake reservoir can be fitted. This is best positioned on the front bulkhead of the passenger footwell. Some people prefer to have it on the inside, so they may check levels at a glance, whilst other people will mount it on the outside of the bulkhead, under the tank. A bracket can be made up from sheet steel, or holes drilled and a large 'jubilee' clip used to hold it in position. 5] Now, the body tub can be securely attached to the front of the car, using the 2 stubs on top of the axle beam. In order to do this, 2 'Z' shaped brackets will need making up, which are simply made out of 4 or 5mm plate steel. With the petrol tank in position, you will be able to measure the size needed and the clearance required for them to attach to the body tub. Drill a 15mm hole in each leg of the bracket to fit them, facing forwards from the axle stubs and use the bolts and rubber washers from the VW chassis for the lower mounts with the petrol tank bolts being used at the top. 6] The dashboard can now be fitted to the car. In order to do this, the bonnet must be placed in position - and ENSURE IT IS IN THE CORRECT POSITION - i.e. correctly seated on the body tub - before measuring up for the dashboard. In some instances, you may need to trim the edges of the bonnet to ensure it sits squarely. This can be easily done with the tank out, so that you can view the high spots from underneath. You can mark them, lift off the bonnet and then trim it. In some cases, you may then find that the petrol tank then fouls on the bonnet panel - so if this is the case some more mallet modification may be in order!

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CH 6 - Mounting the GP Body onto the Chassis

The dashboard first has to be attached to the dashboard frame. 2 small cuts will have to be made on the dashboard to allow the frame to be let in, before attaching which is best done using either pop rivets or self tappers, positioned as shown with the tube section along the bottom edge of the dashboard. Make sure you get the frame in the correct way round - the angled feet should be pointing downwards, with the straight sections attached to the dashboard. With the bonnet then in the final correct position, offer up the dashboard as tight as possible and mark holes in the body tub for fitting. Bolt the dashboard on securely and then remove the bonnet section again. 7] The next task is to fit the steering column. You should have the complete unit from your donor VW, including the top mounting bracket, which in a Beetle, is connected to the underside of the dashboard. It can still be fitted like this in the GP Buggy, mounting to the underside of the GP dashboard, but many people find this too low. The solution then, which most of our customers prefer, is to turn the column bracket upside down, so it mounts downwards to the inside of the dashboard. To do this, cut a suitable hole to pass it through the dashboard and one in the front bulkhead, taking care to ensure the holes are aligned as the column passes through the body tub. The hole in the front body wall should be made large enough to accept the rubber grommet that was retained from the original car. The steering angle can be altered by loosening the 2 x17mm bolts that hold the steering box to the front axle. Once in position, the top mounting bracket can then be attached to the dashboard. For added strength, it is a good idea to weld or bond in some plate metal to the dashboard and dashboard frame, to bolt or bond the mounting bracket to. Whichever way you do it, take some time to measure up and ensure the column will be in the correct position for you! Of course, this may well be dependant on what type of seats you are going to fit, so fitting these in position is a sensible solution at this point. Again, with the steering column in position, you may find that it fouls the fuel tank, which means you'll have to get that hammer out again!! Don't forget to tighten up the steering box bolts at the end! 8] Now that you know the petrol tank is not going to foul anything above or below, it is a good idea to treat it to as coat of rust-proof paint. 9] With the bonnet removed, you can now fit all the internal components. Start by fitting the wiring loom, ensuring it is firmly attached around the body. Put the battery into position, then the instrument gauges and switches can then be put in place, wired up and checked, followed by the light units front and rear together with the front indicators. Take your time in doing this, making sure any holes you drill are symmetrical and that your wiring is all connected correctly. The fusebox can be placed anywhere you desire - as long as its accessible! Make sure all the
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CH 6 - Mounting the GP Body onto the Chassis

correct electrical connections are then made to the engine, starter and alternator. Drill a small hole through the front body tub to pass the speedometer cable through, going under the petrol tank to the left front wheel hub. Remember that if you're fitting an aftermarket gauge, or have different sized wheels or tyres from a stock VW Beetle, that not only will the cable end require modification, but the guage will need re-calibrating so it shows the correct speed and mileage. The stock VW windscreen washer bottle will need replacing with an electrically pumped aftermarket one, as you won't have a spare tyre on your GP Buggy. Mount these wherever you feel is suitable! The washer nozzle(s) can be attached to the underside of the bonnet, ensuring there is enough slack in the water tubes to make the connection from the pump to the nozzle, when the bonnet is put back in position. Then, connect up the petrol tank to the central fuel line, the fuel line to the engine fuel pump and the brake reservoir to the master cylinder. Finally, the windscreen wiper assembly and motor can be fitted. A good idea is to make up a bracket to hold the motor, which can be bonded to the underside of the bonnet and hold the whole assembly in place. This has the advantage of easy removal should the bonnet have to be removed in future, simply by undoing the electrical connector beforehand. Whether you are re-using the stock VW assembly, or fitting an aftermarket one (Mini assemblies are a good choice, though the Lucas motors for them can be expensive), the positioning is up to you, dependant on whether you want the arm spindles to be evenly placed on the bonnet or to on side. If they are to be evenly placed on each side, then the position of the wipers will be one-up and one-down in the park position. If to the side, then both wiper arms will be down when parked. Due to the smaller windscreen height on the GP, the wiper arms themselves will need replacing (again Mini ones are good value - and even available in Stainless Steel from a company such as Mini Sport). 10] The bonnet can then be fixed in position. To start with, use 2 self tapping screws on each side at the forward lower end of the front wings - but do not tighten too much at this stage. Next, make sure that the bonnet fits tightly over the dashboard and using 2 M6 x 30mm bolts, attach it to the dashboard through each side of the bonnet. When drilling the holes for this, make sure that you go through the dashboard and dashboard frame. Make sure the bolts are securely fastened - but again not too tight. The wing piping can then be put in position down each side of the bonnet. Continue drilling and bolting the bonnet down the length of the body, from underneath the front wings, working from side to side. Get all the positions correct and then tighten up and you will see the gaps gradually close up on each side for a snug fit! When complete, don't forget to connect up the electrics to the windscreen motor and the washer tube(s) to the nozzle(s) on the underside of the bonnet. 11] It is now time to fit the windscreen. The laminated glass and rubber come with the kit - but you'll also need some washing up liquid. The rubber seal has a filler strip that fills the groove to make a tight fit - this must be removed before trying to install the glass. To start then, place the screen in position and scribe a line around the edge approximately 6mm larger than the glass. Cut out the excess fibreglass and then install the rubber seal in position. Liberally coat the outer edge of the screen with washing up liquid, then offer up the glass from the bottom first and place in position. The amount cut out for the seal should allow enough movement to make this fairly easy, so long as you keep the pressure even and are not too heavy handed. A second person to assist makes this job a lot easier! With the glass in position, the filler strip can then be replaced to take up the slack in the rubber to make a watertight seal. Again use lots of washing up liquid and the end of a teaspoon handle really helps! And that's it - one complete GP Buggy built - how's it feel?!

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CH 7 - Fitting Optional Components

Fitting optional components

1] ROLL BAR The GP Buggies supplied roll bar is angled slightly backwards with a 3 point fitment to the chassis. The feet are located on each side utilising the one original hole in the floorpan and one new one that must be drilled. The upper mounting locates through the body onto the rear of the chassis. Be sure to use large enough spacers when bolting in. 2] GP BUMPERS The front bumper simply attaches to the front axle tubes using standards 2" exhaust clamps. The rear bumper/engine cage fits to the top of the rear shock absorbers and at the bottom to the gearbox mounting bolts. 3] HOOD Fitting the hood perfectly is never an easy task - so take plenty of time and care in doing so! (Anyone can fit a hood badly!) The more people there are to assist in this operation, the better. Start by strapping the frame into the inside of the hood using the 4 press-stud flaps. Then, position the hood onto the body and locate the correct position for the frame to be attached to the body. This is an exercise in patience to ensure that the correct position and tension will be achieved. Pull the hood forward to the windscreen to assist in the positioning, and when happy, drill and screw the frame into position. The best way to attach the hood is by using "Lift the Dot" fixings, consisting of a male stud (attached to the body) and a female tab plate on the hood itself. In order to ensure an even fit, the hood should first be attached at the rear of the car. Decide how many fitments you would like at the back, measure and space then out evenly in position and fix the male studs onto the body. Work out where the corresponding female fixings will go on the hood, fit them and attach. Now, fit the male studs around the windscreen, then pull the hood forward and position the females in order to get an even tension across the length of the hood, making sure it is centralised. The fittings can then be attached down each side. Job Done!

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CH 8 - Final Checks

Final checks and your on the way to an MOT!

Now the actual build is done, there's still a lot to do before you can grab your MOT and get it on the road! Don't forget to check the following items: 1] Tracking - adjustment will be the same as for the original VW Beetle. 2] Brakes - ensure you bleed them properly, all fittings are tight and brake shoes are adjusted. 3] Headlights - aligned correctly (easily done using the Haynes manual method). 4] Tyre Pressures - keep them low for some extra grip! 5] Electrics - double check all connections and be sure to keep some spare fuses handy as something is bound to go as your car wears itself in! Your vehicle should now be ready for its MOT test - and all being well you can get it done with nobody querying that its no longer a VW Beetle! Unfortunately, although insurance is fairly easy, (and cheap on kit cars!) the problem can come when you have to tax it - when your V5 (Vehicle Registration document) says "VW 1200 Beetle Saloon" and your insurance certificate says "VW Beach Buggy"! At this point in time, although the DVLA rules state that as long as you retain the original chassis and 2 of the other main components (from the suspension, axles, transmission, engine, gearbox, steering assembly), then you can retain the original number plate - and are not subject to the SVA (Single Vehicle Approval) Test BUT this is actually being enforced to differing degrees depending on your location in the UK and who deals with your paperwork! There seems to be a real drive on by the DVLA to Q-plate anything they feel isn't an original factory mass-production vehicle. So, send in your V5 for an update at your peril - you may get a rude letter back demanding you take your car for a special SVA test to get it re-registered (at a 300 cost to YOU - plus 80 re-registration fee!!!!!) Our advice is stick with your current V5 and find a sympathetic Post Office to get your tax done!

And that's it - so we would just like to take this opportunity to wish you many years of happy motoring in you GP Buggy and we hope to see you buggin' around at a few events in the future!

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CH 8 - Final Checks

If you have any comments or suggestions on anything we have said here, don't hesitate to get in touch: tech@gpbuggies.com

GP Buggies
16 Pawley Close- Tongham - Farnham - Surrey - GU10 1DR- England Tel: +44 (0) 468 005111 Fax: +44 (0) 1252 665880

These instructions are provided by GP Buggies as guidance only to assist customers in constructing their own cars. In no event shall GP Buggies be liable, in any form whatsoever, for customers either following or failing to follow these instructions, including any consequential loss or damage caused as a result. No warranties are made for any products purchased from GP Buggies in respect of their merchantability and fitness for any particular purpose.

All Contents GP Buggies:1999, 2000. Manual - UPDATED 24.03.00 - SRK

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Appendix - Dart Template

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Appendix - Dart Template

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