Fabric construction F A B R I C A.

weaving Is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Warp yarns the yarns which run lengthwise. Woof yarns - the yarns which run crosswise. Woven fabric features 1. Fabric grain the lengthwise and the crosswise grains of the fabric. Bias a fabric is cut along a forty-five degree angle. 2. Selvage refer to the finished edges of a woven fabric that run parallel to the lengthwise direction of the fabric. 3. Count of fabric refers to the closeness or looseness of the weave. 4. Balance the proportion of warp yarns.

A cloth is said to have good balance if the number of warps and the number of fillings to the inch are nearly the same (not more than 10 yarns difference)

Basic weaves A. Plain Weave the most common and simplest of all the weaves. Plain Weave common type of construction which is inexpensive to produce, durable, flat having tight surface on which printing and other finishes can be easily applied.

The filling yarns goes the first warp yarn then under the next warp yarn, over the third and so on, repeating the same alternating pattern all throughout.

A variation of the plain weave is the basket weave. The same principle is followed except that instead of one warp yarn and filling yarn, it can be 2x1 (two warp yarns pass over and under one filling yarn) or 3x2 two fillings pass over and under three warp.

B. Twill Weave are more closely woven, heavier and sturdier than plain weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size.

A common variation of the twill weave is the heringbone. In this weave, the warp and filling threads are interlaced so that distinct diagonal lines appear on the fabric face.

C. Satin weave is characterized by floating yarns to produce high luster on one side of fabric. The weakest of the three basic weaves. The satin weave is a variation of the satin construction. Filling yarns, instead of warp yarns, float and are visible on the surface of the fabric.

Other weave Figure Leno / Gauze Pile Double-cloth Leno / gauze weave - warp yarns in pairs are crossed over each other in the form of figure 8. The filling yarn passes through the loop of the figure 8.

This process is made possible by a leno attachment which shifts the warp threads across as well as up and down Spacing between the yarns create an open, porous effect.

Figure/pattern weave Under this group are dobby, Lappet, swivel and jacquard. They are called figure or pattern weaves since they produce from simple to complex designs through the use of special looms or machine attachment. Dobby weave. Simple, small geometric design or figures can be woven inexpensively by placing a dobby attachment. Lappet weave. Extra warp yarns carried by needles weave designs on the fabric while it is being woven. The design is knotted to the base fabric. Swivel weave. Yarns are woven into the basic weave of the fabric and cut automatically to produce a shaggy of fuzzy design. They are not fastened or knotted to the base weave. Jacquard weave. This kind of weave with elaborate designs is done on intricately constructed looms called jacquard looms, which allow each warp yarn to be controlled individually by the use of perforated cards. Pile Weave

Produces decorative third dimension to the fabric surface, creating an additional yarn either on the warp or filling direction into the basic construction, which maybe plain or twill.

Knitting Is the process of interlooping one or more yarns with the use of needles until chains of stitches are produce.

Basic types of knit 1. Warp knits 2. Filling knits Filling/Weft knit - Are made with only one yarn carried back and forth to make a flat fabric or are knitted completely around to make a circular fabric. Cotton Jersey (stockinet) Horsiery Double knits

Warp knits - Are machine knit from one or more sets of yarns placed side by side. - The loops are made simultaneously by interlooping individual warp yarns into the loops of adjacent warp yarns. Two commonly used warp knits machine: Tricot - use underwear, dress and blouse fabrics. Raschel - knit anything from very fragile hairnets, tulles and veiling's to coarse rugs fur clothes. C. Lace-Making Lace-making and netting are two similar methods of fabric construction. To produced a lace or net, a single continuous yarn is looped, tied, or twisted upon itself until it takes a form.

Elements 1. The pattern forms the closer worked and more solid portion. 2. Open mesh ground serves to hold the pattern together. Two kinds of laces: Real or hand-made Machine made

Alencon Lace

Chantilly Lace

Cluny Lace

Filet Lace

Valenciennes

D. Braiding Is the interlacing of at least three or more yarns, lengthwise and diagonally, to form a fabric.

E. Felting & bonding In felting, wool or other specialty hair fibers (camel, goat, or rabbit hairs) are matted together by the use of heat, moisture and pressure. Bonding also make use of heat and pressure to bind together certain fibers other than wool. F. Stitchbonding - A development using sewing-knitting machines called MALIMO, MALIWAT, MALIPOL and MALIVIES is one of the latest fabric manufacturing processes which was developed in East Germany. Applications are still limited to artificial furs, towels, floor, coverings and decorative materials G. non-wovens - Commonly called disposables, non-woven materials are manufactured in almost the same method as paper making. Fabric finishes Fabrics are given a variety of treatments before, during or after construction, designed to alter their performance and final appearance.

Finishes are divided into: Functional Affecting fabric behavior Makes the fabric more versatile or better suited to a specified need. Decorative Affecting a fabric look or feel Makes a fabric a pleasure to see and feel.

Functional finishes 1. Anti-bacterial 2. Anti-static 3. Flame-resistant 4. Mercerized 5. Mildew-resistant

6. Month proof 7. Permanent press 8. Preshrunk 9. Stretch and sag-resistant 10. Wrinkle-resistant