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TILES

GENERAL

Tile is a durable and attractive material for floors and walls. Easily
maintained, it may be just the look we want for our living room, bathroom or
kitchen. The decorator effect of tile has only recently taken hold in homes of all
styles; from contemporary to colonial, tile has a design and style to fit all
applications. Tile is widely adaptable and can be used in an array of settings,
from kitchens and baths to dining rooms and living rooms. Whether it is a stone
finish or a traditional glazed finish, there is a style to suit every taste.

BENEFITS OF TILES

When deciding on a new floor or wall, we have lots of options, and while
tile is only one of those options, the following are TEN FACTS that set tile apart
from others.

Ease of Maintenance: While no floor remains entirely maintenance free,


tile comes about as close at it can to being service free. Short of the application
of the occasional sealant, tile requires only the regular cleaning that any
flooring surface would require. With the installation of grout, tile becomes
almost impervious to water damage, and can be virtually hosed off if necessary.

Adaptability: There is a tile option for nearly any application, and


imagination and creativity are only limitations when installing tile. From porticos
in a dining room to a tiled hearth in front of a fireplace, we can adapt tile to
nearly any surface, indoors or out.

Cost Effectiveness: Tile is one of the most cost effective flooring


surfaces on the market today. When considering initial costs versus longevity, it
becomes quite clear that ceramic tile overall offers the best of any flooring
surface. Square footage material costs stay in check with most other
alternatives, and while the initial installation costs may be slightly higher, it's
important to consider all the long term costs and value when judging overall
cost effectiveness.

Installation Variety: While our installation options are only limited by


our imagination, there are a number of ideas already in place to get our creative
juices flowing. Although flooring has always been the number one usage of
ceramic tile, we are not limited to just floors. Backsplashes, porticos, murals and
countertops can all be tiled in an artistic manner, subject to our décor. We can
match our floor to our tile walls, or contrast the two to make our project stand
out even more.

Durability: Tile is great for high traffic situations due to its strength and
resiliency to staining and wear. While not extremely impact resistant, the wear
ability of tile is the reason for its durability.
Ease of Repair: Even though ceramic is strong, there is still the
opportunity for breakage, as with any earthenware. When a breakage does
occur, repairing tile is far simpler than fixing hardwood or plank flooring. Simply
remove the broken pieces, clean the area, reinstall replacement tiles and re-
grout the repaired area. Completing tile repairs typically takes less time than
repairing a wood floor, or even a composite flooring surface. It is important to
keep several pieces of tile left over from the installation for these repair needs.

Style: As always, style counts, and tile is no exception to that rule. Tile
has a finish and style to adapt to any décor. There is an unlimited variety to tile,
from bright vibrant colors to muted tones and everything in between. While
colors and textures can vary greatly between manufacturers, virtually any
combination of color and texture can be found on today's market.

Easy Installation: Generally speaking, the installation process for


ceramic tile is a project easily completed by the average workers. The basic
procedure involves preparing the area, gauging the space, installing the tile,
and grouting finished the project.

Design Flexibility: There is the variety of sizing options of ceramic tiles,


design flexibility is drastically improved. We can opt for smaller 6" x 6" tiles, all
the way up to the 24" x 24", as well as the squaring options, such as "brick and
block" or "Flemish" style joints. All these choices add to the design
characteristics that are perfect for our application.

Capital Improvement: In many cases, adding a tile floor and wall to the
home will increase its potential resale value tremendously. Potential buyers will
certainly take notice of a well installed and designed tile floor and wall. With its
attractive style and impressive presentation, a good tile floor and wall can add
thousands of money in potential value to prospective customers.

SELECTION OF TILES

When selecting a specific tile for our application, there are several factors
that must be taken into consideration.

• Where is the space you plan on tiling?


• Is it a bathroom or kitchen, where water is likely to be introduced?
• Does the space incur a high level of traffic or excessive wear from family
or pets?
• Is this an area where furniture will be slid or moved on a regular basis?

All these factors are keys when selecting the finish or type of tile we can
appropriately install for our application. A well laid tile floor can last for
centuries, so our selection should be made carefully, as this investment in our
home can last as long lasting as the home itself.

Homogenous tiles are used for floors and glazed tiles are for walls. We
have to use only floor tiles when tiling a floor. There is a difference. Floor and
wall tiles may look similar, but floor tiles are generally thicker and are textured
to make them safer to walk on. Larger floor tiles will not safely adhere to walls.
On the other hand, wall tiles are less weighted, smooth and slippery. It cannot
be used on floor because walking may not be safe.

Ceramic floor tile is available in lots of sizes, all the way from 1 square
inch - usually sold attached to sheets that are 12 inches by 12 inches - all the
way up to 24 inches. Wall tiles sizes are usually 150 x 150mm (6 x 6 inches) 200
x 200mm (8 x 8 inches) 200 x 250mm (8 x 10 inches) and 200 x 300mm (8 x 12
inches). As a general rule, aim for large tiles in a large room and small tiles in a
small room. Ceramic wall and floor tiles are made in a huge variety of colours,
sizes and designs.

However, all ceramic tiles do not resist water. In fact, some ceramic tile,
called non-vitreous, will actually absorb water, so it should only be used in
areas where it won't come in contact with water. Semi vitreous and
impervious ceramic tiles both resist water (impervious tiles won't absorb any
water all). So for using tiles on a bathroom or kitchen wall and floor, it must be
semi vitreous or impervious tiles.

WORKING OUT WALL AND FLOOR TILE QUANTITY

The easiest method of working out how many tiles are needed is to
measure the height of the wall or floor space and calculate how many of the
chosen tile size will be needed to fit from floor to ceiling or over the floor space.
Count any halves, or "bits" of a tile, as a whole one. Do the same for the wall
width or floor width. Multiply the number required for the height by the number
for the width and this will give the total number of tiles needed for the wall or
floor. Repeat the process for the other walls and using the same process to
deduct for doors and windows where tiling will not be done. When we have a
total for the whole room, add 10%, that is add a further 10 tiles for every 100
that the calculations say to be needed. This is to allow for mistakes, breakages
and to make sure we have some tiles of the same colour should any get broken
later on.

WALL TILES

Ceramic tile provides a beautiful, long lasting wall that's easy to take care
of and is almost impossible to mark or stain. Wall tiles can be installed literally
any place to be able to enjoy their beauty, but the obvious locations are in
kitchens (as backsplashes or countertops) and in bathrooms and showers.

Preparation of the Wall

Before starting the tiling work, the wall has to be prepared. Ceramic tiles
can be installed directly on brick wall, plaster or over plain concrete surface.
First the wall has to be cleaned. For the plain surface of concrete wall, chipping
is necessary for the adhesion of cement. Before starting the work, water is given
so that the wall becomes wet. Tiles are also soaked into water. This is done
because if we use dry tiles or work on dry wall, water of the mortar will be
absorbed by the dry surface of the wall or the tiles. This can decrease the
bonding strength of the mortar.

Installation of Wall Tiles

A measuring gauge is made out of a piece of timber 18mm x 44mm about


1.8 or 2.4m long marked out in exact tile widths including the spaces in
between. This gauge will be used to determine where lines of tiles start and
finish and to avoid difficult cutting. (Diagram 1)

To determine a starting point for tiling fix a perfectly straight length of


timber to the wall horizontally with the top edge just over one tile height above
the highest floor or skirting board level. A spirit level is used to check that the
batten is truly horizontal. This batten, going the full width of the wall, will
provide the level at which tiling commences, and will ensure that tiling lines are
straight even though the floor may be uneven. The nails should not be driven
fully home; they have to be removed later. (Diagram 2)

Measuring gauge is used vertically from the fixed batten to check that at
the top of the wall a narrow strip is not left to be tiled. Narrow tile strips are
difficult to cut. If this situation arises then the horizontal fixed batten is dropped
to leave roughly equal spacing at the top and bottom of the wall for cut tiles. By
measurement the centre point of the fixed batten is found (the centre point
along the width of the wall). This point is marked on the batten. Measuring
gauge is used horizontally along the batten to determine where the last whole
tile will be fixed close to the end of the wall. This point is also marked on the
fixed batten. (Diagram 3)

A plumb line is dropped down the wall so the string touches the last mark
on the horizontal batten (Diagram 4). Several pencil marks are made on the
wall, directly behind the string line, and then another batten is fixed vertically to
the wall, along those marks (Diagram 5). The batten is checked whether it is
truly vertical or not with a spirit level. A few tiles are laid into the corner formed
by the battens to check that they sit squarely.

Tiling commences in the corner. Mortar is spread over an area of about


one square meter at a time, and then it is combed out (Diagram 6). Or mortar
can be used on the backside of every tile. The tiles are placed firmly onto the
ribbed mortar with spacers set in between. The spacing between two tiles
should be about 2mm. Working sideways and upwards, the fixing of all whole
tiles are completed, and then it is left for about twenty four hours to dry. The
battens are carefully removed, and then tiles are cut to fit around the perimeter.

Every wall tiles must be in a same level. This is checked by plumb bob and
string. A leveler made of timber is used to level the tiles if needed. At the
corners of the walls tiles come in contact with each other perpendicularly. For
these tiles the sides of the tiles are cut at 45 degree angle so that tiles can
make smooth edge.

FLOOR TILES

Traditionally used in bathrooms and kitchens, floor tiles are beginning to


be used in other areas such as living rooms and bedrooms to create stunning
areas of color and texture. Today's floor tiles can be created to look like many
other materials too, and there really are no limits to the effects that can be
created.

Preparation of the Floor

Preparation for a tile floor is as important as any step in the tiling process.
Taking extra care in the preparation process can save our time, material and
aggravation. The first steps are to insure the substrate is appropriate for the
application. Taking these steps will not only insure the quality of your work, but
also guarantee that your flooring will remain in place and free from stress
cracks for as long as possible.
In some cases, screeding - a procedure that uses a very dense cement
mixture - is spread to level a floor. The next step in preparing for a tile floor is to
gauge or lay out the planned flooring area. During this process, it is important to
take into consideration any obstacles may be encountered during the
installation. These obstacles may include standpipes, drains, doorways,
electrical receptacles or floor vents. When preparing for a tile job, it is best to
think forward to these potential scenarios and know what to do when they arise.

Consider Substrate Material: When considering an appropriate subfloor or


substrate, it's imperative to consider a few factors. Introducing substrate may
raise the level of the floor by up to a half inch. Once that is added to the quarter
inch height of the adhesive and the quarter inch of the tile itself, the height is
increased by nearly an inch. This may be a factor when considering door
clearance, or thresholds for crossings into other rooms. In applications where
height restrictions prevent cement subfloor, thinner materials are available;
composite substrates offer an equally strong bonding agent and are only around
1/8" inch thick.

Screeding: Screeding is a procedure most commonly associated with


commercial applications, yet in recent years, it has found usage in homes
across the country. It is best used in a scenario where a high spot is present and
the rest of the floor must be brought up to that high spot to ensure levelness.

1. Using a moist mixture of sand, Portland cement and lime, rake together
everything in a large pan and spray lightly with a hose. Once the mix is
sufficiently moist enough to clump in hand and stay together, the mixture
is ready to spread across the floor.

2. From the low spot, a level “ribbon” of sand the length of one wall and
even with the high spot is created. Another ribbon is created on the
opposite wall, level with the high spot. The two ribbons should now be
level to each other. These ribbons will be used in conjunction with a large
straight edge to evenly distribute the rest of the mixture across the open
floor space.

3. Using a flat trowel, the screeded area is firmly troweled to satin finish. If a
cavity id found, a fist of the screed mixture is taken, and forcibly thrown
directly on top of the affected area. Straight edge is pulled over the area,
and troweled to a smooth finish.

4. Once the entire area have been screeded, let the mixture sit overnight to
ensure a solid working surface to walk and work on.

Laying Out the Tile: Floor tiles should be centered in the room for the best
visual appearance. So it should be kept in mind while laying out the floor tile.

1. First the center of two opposite walls were measured found out. These
points are used to snap a chalk line across the length of the room in the
center of the floor, dividing the room in half. Then another chalk line was
snapped perpendicular to the first so the two lines cross in the center of
the room. The lines are checked where the lines cross with a carpenter's
square to make absolutely sure the center point is square.

2. A row of tiles is dry-fitted down both lines to the width and length of the
room. Equal spacing is left for the grout joints. Most floor tiles do not come
with spacers, so the appropriate spacing is approximated.

Fig: Laying out of tiles.

3. By laying out the tiles in this way, an idea of any adjustments can get that
need to made the original reference lines. The goal is to work with as
many full tiles as possible. Also, it should be end up with at least half a tile
width in the areas where the tiles meet the walls. A slight adjustment at
the center point may save lots of time and money. The reference lines are
adjusted as necessary to achieve a layout that is satisfactory.

Installation of Floor Tiles

1. Laying of the tile is begun from the center of the floor where the two final
reference lines cross. Installation is started by laying a tile at the
intersection of the lines, and then the lines are used as a guide as work
way outward toward the walls in each quadrant.

2. Typically, a cement based adhesive is used to secure the tile to the


substrate. A notched trowel is used to apply the tile adhesive to an area
about 2-foot square in the starting corner.

3. The tiles are placed into the adhesive with a gentle, yet firm back and
forth motion. Each tile should be in level to the ones alongside it.

4. Use the spacer to make sure the tiles are evenly spaced, and continually
use a level to make sure the top of the tiles are flush with one another. If
any tiles are too high, use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a
hammer to tap them down.
5. If adhesive oozes up between the tiles, the excess should be cleaned out
before it dries. Any adhesive should be wiped out from the face of the tiles
with a solvent-soaked sponge or rag. Adhesives begin to set firmly in 20 to
30 minutes.

6. Similarly Adhesive is spread and tiles are laid to next 2-foot square areas,
moving back and forth across the room.

7. When all the full tiles have been laid, let them set overnight. After the
adhesive has set up, it will be the time to cut and install the border tiles.

CUTTING TILES

Cutting tiles is very important for the proper installation of tiles. It is a


simple procedure that follows the old adage: measure twice, cut once. Cutting
tiles is similar both for the floor and the wall tiles.

Nearly every tiling job requires trimming tiles to fit around borders or
obstructions such as window frames, electrical fixtures, pipes, basins, toilets or
countertops. Straight cuts are relatively simple. Shaping tiles to fit curves is
more difficult and requires practice and patience.

1. A dry tile is placed exactly over the last full tile. A 1/2" wide spacer is put
against the wall.

2. Another dry tile is placed up against the spacer so that the side edges are
lined up with the first loose tile. A line is marked across the first tile. This is the
line need to be cut.
3. Either a tile cutter or a glasscutter can be used to cut the ceramic tile. If
using a glasscutter, a straight edge is placed along the tile and the line is scored
once with the glasscutter. Then the tile is placed on the edge of a workbench or
over a couple of match sticks or spacers and snaps the tile along the scored
line.

4. To make cuts at a true right angle, a combination square is used as the


straightedge when scoring with a glass cutter. When using a glass cutter or tile
cutter, the tile should be scored in one stroke to achieve smooth and even
breaks. Repeated scoring will cause the tile to chip or crack.

5. For more complicated cuts, a tile saw or tile nippers can be used. A tile
saw typically consists of a diamond edged carbide blade, and a water source.
This water source is imperative, as it constantly coats the tile surface with a
cooling effect.

GROUTING THE JOINTS

After the tiles have all been installed and the adhesive has set up, it's
time to grout the tiles. Grouting tiles is done in the same way whether they are
floor tiles, wall tiles, ceramic tiles, quarry tiles and so on. The grout needs to get
into the joints and to fill them thoroughly.

1. Depending on the width of the grout lines, either sanded or un-sanded


grout is chosen. If the spaces between the tiles are bigger than 1/8",
sanded grout is used. Sanded grout actually contains sand particles that
help make the grout joint stronger. On the other hand, for smaller spaces,
un-sanded grout is used.
2. One of the major factors in grouting wall and floor tiles involves laying the
tiles in the first place. If enough wide joints are not allowed between the
tiles the grout will not get to the bottom of the joint. This makes it very
weak and will soon allow water to enter. For wall tiles we recommend
joints of 2 to 3mm and for floor tiles, it can be 5mm.
3. When laying the tiles it is also important that the adhesive is not allowed
to squeeze up too far into the joint as it’s almost impossible to chip it out
later and if the adhesive is too high it can affect the grout finish and the
finish of the tiling.
4. Mixing the grout is also very important. The finished grout should be a
creamy consistency much like thick custard. If there are any lumps they
can block a joint and stop mixed grout filling the joint properly. If the
grouting work is in a bathroom or kitchen area, the grout must include a
waterproofing agent. Normally white cement with or without any color is
used as grout. Color of grout depends on the color of the tiles.
5. Once the grout is mixed simply a dollop is troweled onto the floor. The
grout is applied at a 45-degree angle to the grout lines. Using a grout float
or a slightly damp sponge, the grout is pushed round the joints making
sure they are full. It is recommended to work in 3’ x 3' areas to ensure the
uniform coverage of all the grout lines.
6. After dried out of the waste grout on the tiles, a clean damp sponge is
used to wipe over the tile and the joint to clean off the surplus. The grout
should be hard enough to require a fairly strong rubbing action. If it is not
hard enough, the sponge will "drag" the grout out of the joints.
7. After the grout has cured for a week, silicone grout sealer may be applied
with a small paintbrush to help prevent grout discoloration.

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