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Exotic

escapes
6 CARIBBEAN TRIPS
for less than $200 a day P. 57
12 DAYS
WITHOUT
WORDS P. 50
25
Easier than you might think
FLY NONSTOP TO:
Nicaragua Azores Abu Dhabi
Cape Verde Fiji ... Yes, Fiji!
WELCOME TO TAHITIS TWIN
{ 3 HOURS FROM MIAMI }
P. 38
FOLLOW US TO
BAHAMAS
SECRET
BEACH
P. 34
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ISLANDS
P. 37
CAPE VERDE
P. 49
FROM THE EDITOR
Different, but Not Less
A two-week trip to New
Zealand boils down to
this hike that I begged for.
Waivers. Phone calls. hirty hours
of travel. And now, on the day of, my
guide is red-agging my clothing.
Didnt you bring anything warm?
Before us are my packs contents: a
ski coat and pants; sweats and socks.
No merino wool? he asks.
Cotton is cold when its wet.
Wet? Nobody mentioned wet .
A mile into the hike my guide
marches through a river. I crouch to
remove my shoes and socks.
Dont bother, he says. hree
more river crossings are ahead.
My shoes squeak as the path goes
vertical. Four hours later, a view of
Crucible Lake is ours and ours alone.
riumph. And Im shivering.
When I thaw out, I tackle another
hike, one I didnt have to beg for. Its
path is wide. My shoes stay dry. Just
40 minutes in, I share a view of the
Rob Roy Glacier with dozens of hik-
ers. riumph. And Im warm.
For years, Ive risked more and tra v-
eled farther for greater rewards. his
issue offers shortcuts. A ahiti-like
trip a few hours from Miami (page
38). A colony of elephant seals just a
ferry ride from Santa Barbara (page
37). Great escapes right under your
nose. Just be sure to keep it warm.
EDDY PATRICELLI, editor@islands.com
I S L A N D S A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 4 V O L U M E 3 3 N U M B E R 3
THE FASTEST
ROUTES TO
EXOTIC-NESS
See the islands on the map
above? heyre all less than
three hours from the mainland
U.S., or one nonstop flight away.
So is the place pictured below.
Hint: It rhymes with Piji.
Nicaraguas
Fresh Find
26
It seems so
un-Islands. In a
lake, three hours from
Houston? But this has
swordfish, volcanoes
and giant toads.
Close to Home
34
These exotic
escapes dont
require a passport. A
full tank of gas maybe.
Tahitis Twin
38
The author
finds his proof
of paradise in a wildly
unexpected spot.
Nonstop to ...
46
Board a plane
near home.
Take a nap and wake
up ... here!
Why Bali Is Easy
50
Honestly, its
a pain to get
to Amed. But then we
start to breathe easier.
ULTIMATE CARIBBEAN
Trips for Less
Than $200 a Day
57
We werent
camping on
Anguilla, Dominica or
Tobago. The prices just
make it look that way.
DEPARTMENTS
10 Get Here
12 Life Here
16 First Person
17 Reviews
18 Live the Life
20 Travel Tales
74 Outtake
ON THE COVER
Even Martinique locals
have confused their
own island with Tahiti.
Photo by Matteo Co-
lombo/Getty Images.
OVERWATER BUNGALOWS (NOT TAHITI) Browse through our guide to the
best Tahitian-style huts in the Caribbean. Some are less than $200
per night. For those who want Tahitian-style huts in Tahiti, we have
booking information for those too. Go to islands.com/bungalows.
MAUI
P. 18
JAMAICA
P. 14
A
DRY TORTUGA
P. 3
FIJI
P. 46
AZORES
P. 49
VANCOUVER
P. 49
ICELAND
P. 49
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P. 58
MARTINIQUE
P. 38
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For details, visit
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Youll
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GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Walker


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OCEANIA
Wake up in Greece
JAMAICA: I was supposed to fall in love
with a local rum, right? Most likely
Appleton Estate. But a Saint Lucian stole
my heart. Chairmans Reserve, aged
in oak casks that once belonged to Jim
Beam and Jack Daniels, is the best ... rum
... ever. Islands editor Shawn Bean, via e-mail
DI SPATCHES
I SLANDS.COM/ BESTCRUI SES
INDONESIA: Im searching for head-
hunters, not heaven. But when every
local you meet tells you that heaven
is real and you can take a bus there,
you do what I do on the Indonesian
island of Sulawesi, no questions
asked. You get on that bus.
Contributor Jad Davenport, via e-mail
When planning your
travels, is it more impor-
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is easy to get to (like
White Bay in the BVI,
left) or full of mystery
(like Essque Zalu hotel in
Zanzibar, right)?
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It started well
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LENSMAN JON WHITTLE, COERCED INTO A TRIATHLON
NEW ZEALAND: Standing on a helipad,
my guide, J, is aghast. Not ever? No, I
tell him. Ive never ridden in a helicop-
ter. How is that possible? J has lived
in Queenstown for decades, where the
Southern Alps erupt skyward, and heli-
copters buzz about like Balis scooters.
For J, skiing, hiking, biking, hunting
they all entail helicopters. For fun, J
bungee-jumped off one. For work, he
was Aragorns stunt double in Lord of the
Rings. I was a bit dusty [hung over].
He tests our headsets by telling a
joke: How do you know if any helicop-
ter pilots are in a bar? I shrug. heyll
tell you. Our pilot smiles. here are
no worries with this one, says J. Our
pilots name is Safety Dave. An easy
first flight! And hes right. he next day,
however, Im riding in a smaller helicop-
ter. J isnt with me, but Ive been told
to mention two words to the pilot: wood
pigeons. Oh, says the pilot. he birds
that fly straight up, stall, and then fall
from the sky ... like this? Ahhhhhhhhhh!
Islands editor Eddy Patricelli, via e-mail
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11
White Turf
Its time to stroll again on
Calanggaman Island.
SOFT LANDING
I live in the Philippines. Manila, to
be exact. But I didnt know about
Calanggaman Island until a friend
who backpacked in the Palompon
area told me: Its all white and tur-
quoise, everywhere you step. So I
took a plane (1 hour), a bus (4 hours)
and a boat (1 hour) to this spot.
WALK TO LUNCH
The boat dropped us off at the end
of the sandbar for a long walk to the
island itself, where development
consists of a few huts that can be
rented. On the beach our guide
started grilling fish and squid to
complete the morning with a blaze.
Note: The tourism director in Leyte prov-
ince says tourism is helping the region
recover from Typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan).
by VERA VENUS
Security
System
by PAUL ROBERT
12
Top Shelf
OLD SCENE
The south coast of
Jamaica is a throw-
back to pre-Bob
Marley fame. Fish-
ing dories head out
to sea at dawn, and
the nightly rate for
my cottage at Jakes
($150; villas are
$600+) is vintage.
And then theres
the bag of 96 tennis
balls I brought.
From a patio at Jakes Hotel,
Jamaica is in rare form.
NEW APPROACH
The balls, and part
of my room rate, go
to a local park that
Jakes owner, Jason
Henzell, helped
build. We all get
involved, he says.
We even help push
those dories to
shore later.
jakeshotel.com
by PETER ZAREMBA
Miami to
Montego Bay:
90 minutes
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Your
Find self
TAHI TI
ARCHAEOLOGIST MARK EDDOWES
has spent more than 25 years
excavating sites across the
Pacific New Zealand, where
he grew up, the Australs,
Aitutaki, Easter Island. Hence
that twinkle in his eye. Het gets
to do what he loves digging
and reconstructing ancient
ceremonial platforms and he
does it here on Moorea, where
lush mountains surround his
house above Cooks Bay. Its
waters twinkle too.
I was in Auckland in 1987,
just hanging out in my
schools coffee lounge, when
my professor came running up
to me and said, Man, we just
got a research project. Were
going to Tahiti!
Later, the Tahiti site direc-
tor asked, Would you like to
stay? So, am I going to go
back to Auckland, where its
raining in July? Or am I going
to be out in Tahitis bush on a
dig? Yeah, I stayed.
Im known for marae, temple
sites. The Museum of Tahiti
and Her Islands employed me
for 11 years. Every day I was
out in the field, footloose, no
tie-downs. Theyd say, You up
for the Marquesas in a week?
And Id go for six months.
All Polynesian artifacts are
related. The marae temples.
The heiau temples in Hawaii.
The moai statues on Easter
Island those are just
humongous tikis of the ances-
tors found here.
People forget were only
200 years removed from tradi-
tional society out here in Tahiti.
Despite population loss after
European contact, despite
acculturation, locals still view
things like their ancestors did.
I see things that never disap-
peared manifesting today,
particularly in how islanders
view tapu, the sacred. The way
Tahitians think and act is not
Western at all.
Sacred Sights
The moai statues
on Easter Island are
just humongous
tikis of Polynesian
ancestors.
Polynesian Triangle? This guy calls it his office space.
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They call it nia matai,
above the wind. Its the
ancient reputation of the
islands of Tahiti and Moorea.
Today the term means having
as much pleasure as pos-
sible dancing, drinking ava
(liqueur), having huge heiva
festivals. Its the warmth of the
sun, youre covered in monoi
(coconut oil infused with tiare)
and youre ready for a party.
The feeling Tahiti visitors
get has ties to the past, for
sure. Air Tahiti Nui lands in
Papeete; the ferry brings you
to Moorea. Pretty soon, stun-
ning people hand you food and
drinks. You hang out, share
stories, exchange gifts and go
home happy just as invited
guests did long ago. Of course,
the locals now get paid to put
flowers around your neck. But
theyve got no complexes.
Everybody feels blessed to
be in these islands. Nobodys
leaving Tahiti to work in San
Francisco or in Sydney, you
know? MATTHEW MILLER
STAY IN A HUT: islands.com/
overwaterbungalows
LIFE DOES COME WITH A RESET BUTTON.
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I always prefer shorts when traveling, but
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Where to Wear
Frosty mornings gave way to warm after-
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Alpine Design 2-in-1 Skirt Dress
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Where to Wear
On a recent trip to Abu Dhabi, the ankle-
length skirt made for a comfy flight and
did double duty at temples, where modest
attire was required. But at the beach, out
came the halter, and voil, a coverup ... and
a dress for dinner that night. LORI BARBELY
Where We Found It
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Cabelas Guidewear Insulated Jacket
Inside this snowballproof coat is a lighter
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Where to Wear
A damp morning on Georgias Sea Islands
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downpour later brought out layer two: stout
Gore-Tex down past the hips, with (almost) a
million deep pockets. ROBERT STEPHENS
Where We Found It
cabelas.com, $219
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18
LIVE THE LIFE HAWAI I
Mauis Nonstop
Party Lady
For her, there couldnt be a more
perfect fit than the Rainbow State.
by BROOKE MORTON
chances are, if you rsvp yes
to a baby luau on Maui, Rachel
DeBoer will be there. he artist, 39,
will paint a hibiscus on your daugh-
ters cheek. Or if youre feeling playful,
shell paint you your whole body if
youre willing. It isnt just for birthday
parties. At corporate events, CEOs
become wolves, tigers and robots. I
like to expand peoples ideas of them-
selves, Rachel says. Her vision became
a ticket out of Los Angeles to see the
world. hailand. India. Austria. Her
nal stop: Maui. It called me.
Q: Whats more fun: kids or executives?
A: he rewards are greater with adults,
especially men. One night I painted this
guy who was very shy and conservative.
I covered his whole head with Day-Glo
robot designs. Women flocked to him.
People took pictures. He became a cen-
terpiece for the event.
Q: Youve painted 10,000 people. What
about the oops moments?
A: My answer is baby wipes.
Q: But you make mistakes.
A: Ive learned to be careful with dark
colors around a womans jaw line. It can
look like a beard. hey dont like that.
Q: Painting yourself hows that work?
A: I practice on my body. After 19 years
its still nearly impossible to keep the
lines symmetrical. And I havent gured
out how to paint my back.
Q: So why does body paint work on Maui?
A: Look at the tattoos. In this culture,
theyre worn proudly. hey tell a lot about
a persons family clan, their tribulations
and if theyre married. It used to be that
you werent an adult on Maui until you
had a tattoo. It was kind of like having a
drivers license. hats changed some, but
body art is still culturally connected.
Q: And body paint is mistakeproof.
A: Yep, back to the baby wipes. But
more importantly, the people here are
so accepting. And theyre generous.
Within ve days of moving to Maui,
I had a job and a place to live. he
island has an energy mana that
can work to your advantage, but only
if you choose to respect the place and
the people who live here.
Q: How do you do that, specifically?
A: Heres an example: I just came
from a Hawaiian chanting class.
We chant to ask permission to
enter the forest or move a rock
or pick a piece of fruit. Hawaiians
are very respectful of nature.
Q: You said theyre accepting too.
A: When I lived in cities on the
mainland, I was always trying
to blend in. Here, on this crazy
beautiful island, Im comfort-
able. I can be my outrageous self.
Q: Outrageous self?
A: Yeah, sometimes that means
dressing all in pink pink tutu,
pink wig. hats how I meet
people. Kids will ask if pink is
my natural hair color.
Q: Youre talking about pink hair
and pink tutus at birthdays and ...
A: Not just at parties. Shopping
too. I wear costumes all the time.
Q: That makes you stand out more
than just a little bit, doesnt it?
A: Yeah, which means I dont have to
spend any money on advertising. I can
just be myself and it works. Living here
is expensive enough without an adver-
tising budget.
Q: How expensive is it?
A: Well, I live with a lot of roommates.
At my last place, I had seven room-
mates and we shared three bedrooms.
At one point, with a few visitors crash-
ing on our sofas, we had 10 people all
sharing one bar of soap.
Q: And youre an artist. You probably go
through a lot of soap.
Pink wig. Pink
tutu. I can be my
outrageous self
on this crazy
beautiful island.
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A: We make it work. I only have one
pair of shoes: flip-flops. I share clothes
with my female roommates. Our par-
ties are potlucks. he only thing I need
a lot of is the body paint.
Q: At least the bodies are smaller at the
baby luaus theyll save you some paint
money. Are the luaus a big deal?
A: Celebrating a babys survival of the
first year? Oh, yeah. Mainland rela-
tives fly in. Families hire dancers and
magicians and rent carnival rides. Ive
been hosted by Samoans, ongans,
Chinese, ahitians and Japanese. Only
two things stay the same: Im the only
Caucasian, and you must take a heap-
ing plate of food (or three) home or
the family gets mad.
Q: There you go. Saving your food money.
A: Sure. Here they say that you feed the
gods by feeding yourself.
Q: But back to the baby luaus. Those are
a little over the top, arent they?
A: No way. Im a party person. I never
think any party is over the top.
MEET 10 BRAVE EXPATS: islands.com/bitlo
SAMOA: THOSE ARENT BIKE SHORTS
Even the governor of Samoa has a pea,
or a waist-to-knee full-body tattoo thats
dense enough to look like a pair of shorts.
These are perfectly symmetrical. The pro-
cess of applying the black ink can take
days, sometimes weeks, to finish.
THAILAND: SMILEY FACES
The sak yant tattoos are meant to protect
and bring happiness to the wearer, pro-
vided he obeys certain rules. The guide-
lines often forbid the intake of alcohol,
drugs and leftovers, and speaking poorly
of mothers is a big no-no.
NEW ZEALAND: WOOD DOESNT SCREAM
The tool box for Maori skin art called
ta moko includes chisels. Flesh isnt
punctured; its carved, leaving grooves.
Its quite challenging because when
carving wood, you dont care if you make
a mistake, says tattoo artist Riki Manuel.
This art has life in it. Yeah, and it has
something to say: ouch!
Body Languages
With the Islands app, you can access all the latest issues
and subscribe to Islands.
Search Islands Magazinein the App Store.
Do you have the App?
20
TRAVEL TALES
Its a drizzly Wednesday in St.
Davids, the smallest city in the
U.K. But the windows on Julia Horton-
Powdrills house are open, and her face
is sunburned. Let it rain. he beach was
beautiful this morning, she says.
Julias in a party mood. So, it seems,
is her kitchen. Bowls and jars are spill-
ing over with whatever she is happily
snacking on. Some
sort of green and
black streamers
hang from ceiling
hooks, so low and
so thick that Im talking through them in
the general direction of Julias munching.
hats kelp, she says of the stream-
ers. I collected it this morning. I found
this sea spaghetti on Sunday. Its ready.
Ready. Julia slides a bowl toward me.
Id come to the western shore of
Wales to walk through 700-year-old
castles and churches. A local told me to
visit Julia because shes such a character.
I figured she might politely offer some-
thing to eat. But not this. At my finger-
tips is perhaps the worlds most organic
food: seaweed, flung over a hook, dried
for three days, and served. Julia grabs a
few of the brittle strands for herself. Its
her kitchen. Her rules. Ill bite.
I cant say its a Pringles experience,
but the first taste does lead to another,
proving that anything crispy and salty
consumed at 3 p.m. will result in the
munchies. Anything. Here, try some gut-
weed, Julia says. It tastes better than it
looks or sounds. Shes right, even if the
bar has been set at toenail height.
here are nine types of beach finds on
her buffet. Sea lettuce. Sugar kelp. Rock
samphire. Other than salty I cant de-
scribe any of the flavors. Ocean-y? he
kitchen door opens and Julias husband,
Brian, stops cold. Oh God, he says.
Youre not feeding him the seaweed.
Weve been caught. Yes, Mr. Powdrill,
your wife is feeding me the seaweed. I
dont fight it anymore, Brian says. Its a
The Other
Fresh Seafood
This lady might have the healthiest snacks in
Europe. So, how healthy do you want to be?
by ROBERT STEPHENS
COASTAL U. K.
SEA SPAGHETTI
DARE TO BI TE
TASTE
WALES
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22
lost cause. Julia stores the stuff in bag-
gies and bowls. She hides it under the bed
and in his dinner. He doesnt know hes
eating it sometimes, she says. Neither
does our dog. He seems to like dulse best.
It has a little bacon flavor to it.
(For the record, Im not tasting bacon
in the dulse. But I could use some water.)
Living off the land is in the
Welsh DNA. Julias dad was a doc-
tor, but he loved finding things to eat.
Grasshoppers. Dandelions. Julia learned
to cover all the food groups, for free. I
eat roadkill, sure. Mostly birds. You have
to give them a good smell first. At this
point Brian quietly leaves the kitchen.
Say what you will, but Julias 64-year-
old face is full of life. She slides a bowl of
Alexander seed my way. It doesnt taste
like any of the others. I toss a few seeds
into my mouth, and Julia immediately
sees something in my eyes.
he window is open for a reason,
she says. I stick my head into the rain
and ptooey. Some say it tastes like cat
pee, she says. Ill take her word for it
on that one. TROPICAL RECIPES: islands.com
NICARAGUA
LESSONS LEARNED
TAKE AWAYS
hats No
Paddle
I collect paddles.
his, from Fijis
Likuliku Resort, is
my most radical nd.
hick, solid and
its no wonder. Its
a Fijian war club.
Hundreds of varia-
tions existed in the
1800s. Clubs to
break bones, disjoint,
disable. he shiny
inlays (whale ivory
or a victims teeth)
denote the clubs
kills, the victims
mana transferred
to the club. his is
a replica, but it feels
heavy. Really heavy.
EDDY PARICELLI
Tourism is young, so were all
learning this together.
Fi j i an
War
Cl ub
DONT MISS the
pottery shops
even if it isnt your
thing. It wasnt
mine either until I
came to a stop at
Cermica Valentn
Lpez in San Juan
del Oriente. There,
I watched pre-
Columbian-style
pottery thrown,
painted and fired.
The multiday
process was inge-
niously acceler-
ated to half an hour.
What a souvenir.
DO BELIEVE that in
the 1850s, before
completion of the
transcontinental
railroad, stage-
coaches took
travelers on a
scenic route from
New York to San
Francisco way
south through
Nicaragua. The trip
took a month and
cost about $30.
Writer Matthew
Miller offers a few
nuggets from his
travel notes.
DO TRY chicha bruja
(witchs brew). It
sounds wicked and
looks risky. I saw it
served from rain
barrels in small
towns. Turns out,
its sweet-corn
beer and good.
The fizzing is proof
of a fresh batch.
DONT MIND the
gnats around the
ferry launch out to
Ometepe Island.
They dont bite, and
they cant afford
the fare. The island
has much weirder
forms of life.
DO STAY away from
giant toads along
Ometepes trails.
Dont kiss them.
Dont pick them up.
Theyre poisonous
to the touch and
will not turn into
giant princes.
A $30 Fijian club at the cruise port is only worth its
weight in firewood. Be willing to pay five times that.
Rock Samphire:
From the beach
to the bowl
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24
My friend Guillermo and I are
hiking the GR221, a popular trail
on the northwest coast of Mallorca. At
least we hope we are. We arent sure if
we took the right detours, and nobody
could really set us straight. One guy told
us to watch for a fence; another said
theres no fence. he landowners dont
mind; no, the landowners will shoot you.
Weve covered about 10 miles to-
day, weaving through pine forests and
networks of stone terraces built up by
farmers over mil-
lennia. But now
we want to be in
a town. Any town.
By that I mean
any town with a place to eat. A beer
would be nice too, and a patio, prefer-
ably with a view of the sea since post-
card views are, after all, why were here.
Instead of a town, however, we find
the side of a mountain. Its another ar-
duous climb, and when we reach the top,
there are two humongous problems: a
giant fence and a giant gate blocking our
way. Both are about 20 feet high and
equipped with menacing nests of barbed
wire that go on forever. Still, I consider
climbing until a couple of guard dogs
bark with a level of enthusiasm that sug-
gests they havent torn apart any hikers
in a while. I ask Guillermo a question
that suggests were in real trouble.
You got any food with you?
In situations like this, stupid ques-
tions seem to spill out. No, says
Guillermo. Do you?
here is no going forward, and at this
late hour, there is no going back. If we
managed to get lost during the day, who
knows where wed wind up in the dark?
So this is home for the night.
Chocolate
Manna
Getting stuck and missing
dinner has a weird payoff.
by MI KE RANDOLPH
hats Close Enough
his friendship developed on the way up Mount Keli-
mutu in Flores. I wanted to catch the hree Colored
Lakes during an Indonesian sunrise, and when I arrived
at the trail head, this monkey was waiting to guide me.
He stayed precariously close to the edge of the crater wall
all the way up, as if he knew his job was to stay between
me and the 300-foot plunge into the lake. Even here, he
seems to be concerned for me. BROWN W. CANNON III
=
RECIPES 1-2-3
At Anse Chastanets pancake bar on Saint Lucia, the chef has put out a bottle
of banana syrup. With notepad in hand, I coax the recipe from her. Put a
banana in a blender, she starts. OK, got it. Pour in syrup. Im following. Press
the on button. Mm-hmm. But then I ask where she gets her syrup. She looks
at the bottle. It says Vermont. All right, lets go over this again. RS
+
IN MY SHOES
A VERY SPECIAL TOUCH
MALLORCA, SPAI N
EPI C HI KE
DEAD-END FI ND
ENCOUNTERS
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Visit www.theromanticholiday.com or call 1 866 371 9555
Time is so precious,
smart couples steal it
Rendezvous allows you to nd time, time to be together, time to relax,
time to talk. It gives you time to reconnect and to reect. It gives you
time to concentrate on each other, to refocus. It gives you time to
rediscover what matters most you.
Rediscover lifes pleasures together.
Wildest Walks
DOMINICA: CURVES AHEAD
The 115-mile Waitukubuli National Trail on
Dominica is a doodle of switchbacks. The
island itself is only 29 miles long.
ST. JOHN: ULTIMATE REWARD
The Reef Bay Trail is beautiful and down-
hill all the way. It ends at a beach where a
boat will pick you up for just a few bucks.
NEW ZEALAND: BEACH BUMS
The Abel Tasman Coast Track follows 30
miles of beaches too remote for visitors to
linger on but homey for playful fur seals.
Wed been told the GR221 is a jew-
eled necklace of European hiking trails.
rue, if you know the way. And when it
comes to that, like I said, nobody seems
to agree. One guy told us we couldnt
hike the trail at all. Another said we
could hike it, but we needed a guide.
Someone else said we wouldnt need a
guide, but we would need a bus.
And so we decided to find out for
ourselves. After walking past olive
orchards and coves of electric-blue wa-
ter, we met a German couple coming the
opposite direction. We knew this was a
tricky section so we asked about the trail.
Ja, straight ahead all the vay, the man
said. You cant miss it.
Well, I dont know what to say. hey
werent lying to us, but it was not straight
ahead all the vay, and we did, evidently,
miss a turn. And thats how, after crash-
ing through the bush and plodding up
mountains, we ended up at he Gate.
After finally conceding that we arent
getting past the thing, we follow a few
switchbacks down to a flat patch of land
big enough to sleep on. Even better, it
has a stunning view of the sea.
I start pulling things from my pack
to set up. A mallet. A tent. A flashlight.
A whats this? A Snickers bar? Its
slightly crushed, but a heavenly sight
nonetheless. Hey Guillermo, I say,
holding it up high and peeling back the
wrapper. Look what I found.
he cove has a wild feel to it. I
lie there thinking how nice it is that
there are no buildings or roads nearby.
he shimmering Mediterranean Sea
stretches on to the horizon under the
glow of stars. Weve discovered, by ac-
cident, a forgotten corner of Mallorca.
he kind of place wed been looking
for all along. We just had to get lost to
find it. WIN A TRIP: islands.com/photocontest
The GR221 trail is alive with Mediterranean
views, old stone walls and rumored detours.
nicaragua
EASY&EXOTI C
26
rising
ACROSS A LAKE OF SWORDFISH. OVER A
JUNGLE OF GIANT TOADS. WERE ON OUR
WAY TO THE TOP OF AN ISLAND ISOLATED
FROM THE WOES OF NORMALCY.
story by MATTHEW MILLER photos by JON WHITTLE
t
hree ghos-pale monkeys come looping
through the treetops, chattering and arcing from
branch to branch. hey travel effortlessly toward
the distant summit of the same volcano Im trying to
reach. Its humid and 95 degrees. he trail runs entirely uphill.
My lungs ache, and my clothes are soaked in sweat. he wild
monkeys ing themselves over the cliffs edge and out of sight.
Caras blancas, says my lead guide, David. White-faced
capuchins. Dont worry. hey avoid people unless theyre mad.
Our local companion, Abel, hasnt broken a sweat or
taken a deep breath. his is like a walk on the beach for him.
Cuidado, he cautions me as I almost step on a toad the size of
a grapefruit. hose are poisonous to the touch. Perhaps not-
ing how Im panting, he adds, We can turn back at any time.
Were climbing now into the dwarf forest. Ribbons of vapor
enlace ferns and madrones stunted by the wind. Its like a
miniature prehistoric world. My legs may be cramping, but
my eyes are wide open. So no, I dont want to turn back.
Im OK, I say, trying to regulate my voice.
We have a saying in Nicaragua, says David. Were already
on the horses, so we might as well ride.
Up until this trip the word Nicaragua was, for me,
usually embedded in news stories about a war more than
20 years ago. And the country is an isthmus, not a proper
landform for a magazine called Islands. But none of that
holds true for the splotch of land called Ometepe, which
is indeed an island in Lake Nicaragua. he lake, once part
of the Pacic Ocean, is the largest body of water in Central
America. Sharks still swim in it. And the war, now long over,
never reached the island. Development has been slow. he
road, hand-laid brick, only reached this end of Ometepe in
the past 10 years. he people in the sleepy towns depend
on the volcano for the rich farming soil it produces, not for
the travelers it might bring. Like me.
Sights on Ometepe: white-faced capuchins; the
barely used road; bar owners; Ojo de Aguas
healing water; views of the mainland (opposite).
28
In the twilight, absorbing the islands curative minerals, I was
convinced that a little island day hike would be just as tranquil.
We set out at 8 a.m., a little later than planned. And pretty
quickly I realize this abnormal island is about to deal me an
abnormal hike. Im hufng over coffee groves, holding my
hips at trail forks. Sometimes the trail just disappears. But
Abel forges ahead, with David and me following over roots
and slick rocks, ever upward.
During a too-brief banana break, I ask Abel, How many
times have you climbed this volcano?
Its now 362 times, he says. He does it several times a week,
daily in the high season. Ive climbed it twice in one day. His
-shirt is dry, a phenomenon as strange as poisonous toads.
As we set off again, a roar descends from the tall trees
above, like a big cat charging toward us. Whoa, I say. Does
Nicaragua have lions? his country has a way of catching me
off guard. No one responds to my question.
A FRESH FIND We dont often
cover lake islands, but ...
Lake Nicaragua was an ocean
bay before a volcanic eruption
changed the landscape. The
lake still has sharks swimming
in it. Ometepe is one hour out
(and $3) by ferry.
Last evening, down on the narrows that connect Ometepes
two volcanoes, Maderas and the more active Concepcin (you
read that right, two volcanoes on one freshwater island), I
swam in the Ojo de Agua, a peaceful spring-fed pool. Its
waters are filtered through the same volcanic rock were
climbing over now. Youll look 10 years younger after swim-
ming here, David said. Crested jays known as urracas ew
close overhead. Fireies ared in the bushes along the shore.
PRETTY QUICKLY I REALIZE THIS
ABNORMAL ISLAND IS ABOUT TO
DEAL ME AN ABNORMAL HIKE.
HOW EXOTIC IS OMETEPE ISLAND?
Lake
Nicaragua
NICARAGUA
Caribbean
Sea
Pacific
Ocean
Ometepe
Granada
Managua
29
Sights on the mainland: Gorgeously undeveloped ocean bays;
symbols of faith rising up from war-torn areas; families making
tortillas to sell on the street; reminders of sacrifice (opposite).
en roue o caching he ferry over o omeepe
two days earlier, David and I had passed through the colonial
mainland city of Granada, Davids hometown. He took me
to a cemetery, a stop I hadnt requested. He wanted to show
me the ornate crypts and the tombs with marble steeples.
Im ashamed now to admit, but by the time he paused at a
monument with a hand-painted grave marker, I was a little
annoyed. I wanted to get over to the island. But I dutifully
took another photo of the scrawled lettering.
his guy died in the war, David said.
I read the name and dates. Jose Rodolfo Viales Castillo
was born in 1967. hats the same year I was born, I said
and felt a twinge in my jaw. And Jose Rodolfo died in 1983,
when I was a sophomore in high school. hat means while I
was pining over the ute players in band class, my 16-year-old
Nica counterpart was ghting, and dying, for freedom.
And here came my memories of the headlines: Sandinistas
versus Contras, dictatorial oppression, chaos.
Now, three decades later, Im here to stagger up
mountains for the fun of it. In the surf town of
San Juan del Sur, Ill watch waves crash on the
curvaceous beach. Ill order from a menu written in English.
Nicaragua has deep resources of natural beauty all lakes
and volcanoes, David says and a generosity of spirit we
nd in the worlds best places. Yet I never would have known
any of this without Jose Rodolfos sacrice.
A tide of emotion at the cemetery overtook my boredom.
I tried to look away from the grave, but couldnt. Im sorry,
I said, wiping my eyes.
Its OK, said David, born in 1972. I understand.
David himself had been in school when the National
Guard came to conscript boys only a few years older than he
was. he priests hid boys in the closets. It was hard.
Nicaragua is now one of the safest countries in the region.
he war is a recent memory that the people of Granada are
ready to leave behind. en miles into Lake Nicaragua, on
Ometepe, its a much different story.
ooco eco-lodge, where we sared our hike
this morning, runs mostly on solar power. he rooms have
composting toilets, and empty wine bottles get cleaned
and lled with fresh drinking water. he restaurant serves
organic food (what else is there?) from the gardens. his is
sustainability borne from what Ometepe has to offer, not
from a marketing idea. Most people here dont even use the
word sustainable. hey call it life.
ASSUMING NO DELAYS To the
airport in Managua its a four-
hour flight from Atlanta, 3
hours from Houston, two hours
from Miami. Taxis are every-
where, but negotiating the Pan
American highway in a rental
is easy. Bring documentation
police stops are common to
keep safe drivers safe (you)
and illegal ones off the asphalt.
he views from the lodge showcase a Central American
world worth sustaining. he perfect Strombolian cone of
Concepcin rises off the island oor, almost always ringed
in clouds and quiet. he so-called road is a reminder of
the islands ruggedness. oo rugged, in fact, for Davids two-
wheel-drive car. So whenever I need a ride somewhere, I
call Marcos Herrera, who runs a nearby guesthouse and has
offered to pick me up in his truck.
he rst time I rumbled along in Marcos truck, he said
casually, I fought in the war. He showed me a photograph of
himself with revolutionary leader and now president Daniel
Ortega, taken in the 1970s. Do you know why we fought the
revolution? Marcos asked. We did it for the young people.
We saw that if we did nothing, the lives of another generation
would be ruined. It was like a promise.
His words come back to me near the top of the hiking trail
where David, Abel and I crest the rim of Maderas and look
down. here, inside the crater, is a disk of emerald-green
water a sealike lagoon. Marcos was talking about ghting
for people like Abel, raised on Ometepe and now working as
a tour guide. No, the war wasnt about tourism. But tourism
is the next generation, and the promise is being kept.
GRANADAS CEMETERIES AND
OMETEPES WILDLIFE. ITS 10
MILES BETWEEN WAR AND PEACE.
HOW EASY IS NICARAGUA?
NICARAGUA
MIAMI
ATLANTA
HOUSTON
BEST
VALUE
RESORTS
islands.com
31
hunder booms around us, so we decide o walk
back down the volcano. In Nicaraguas wet season, if it hasnt
rained today, its about to. And when it rains, it rains hard.
Slogging down the trail, which now doubles as a creek bed, my
shoes ll with water. Abels -shirt gets soaked at last. hats
gratifying to me. It only took an act of God.
In the downpour and through my breathing, I have to
shout questions to Abel. I ask when he was born.
I was born in 1987, he says. hat was two years before the
war ended, the war across the lake.
Did the war affect Ometepe? I ask him.
Some men went to ght in other parts of the country,
Abel says over his shoulder, but there was no ghting here.
He points upward, and we stop to observe a pair of crested
guans, perched in a tree like wild turkeys. he chunky birds
reject our attention and take ight. hen we hear that lionlike
roaring again. Its spookier this time.
Just howler monkeys, says David. heyre vegetarians.
My thoughts toggle between those cemeteries around
Granada and the unfettered wildlife and repose on Ometepe.
en miles of water between war and peace.
At some point I realize the rain has stopped, the clouds have
dispersed and dusk is falling. Abel turns onto an overgrown
trail to make sure were out of the jungle before dark. he
ID NEVER SEEN AN AGOUTI
OR A LAGOON IN A VOLCANO.
FATIGUE IS A SMALL PRICE.
32
slope attens as we walk through the coffee bushes again. And
then something that looks like a gerbil the size of a schnauzer
darts out from the cover at my feet and bounds across the
meadow a forest sprite, so fast I question whether I actually
saw it or if muscle fatigue has spread to my eyes.
Guatusa, says Abel, not breaking stride, and then he offers
the more common name: Agouti.
My legs are shot after nine hours of hiking. But Id never
seen an agouti before, nor a lagoon at the top of a volcano
on the peak of an island in the middle of a freshwater lake.
Fatigue seems a pretty small price to pay.
We didnt fall! shouts David, coming down the trail
behind us. Abel told us earlier that 90 percent of the people
hiking the volcano hit the dirt. Nearly half turn back.
We didnt fall yet, I say.
Abel smiles and repeats, Not yet.
But we wont fall, not today.
As we cross the last eld before re-entering otoco prop-
erty, a whole ock of parrots ushes from the trees, dozens
of big lime-green birds fanning out across the silver-lined
clouds. Abel, still ahead of me, traces the birds ight with
his hand. Like the island of Ometepe, he has never seen war.
And like a forest dripping with fresh rain, thats a beautiful
thing. FOLLOW OUR FOOTSTEPS: islands.com/nicaragua
On the hike from Totoco Eco-Lodge (above):
fast-growing ceiba trees; magpie jays; local pork
dishes; Concepcin under a veil (opposite).
33
EASY&EXOTI C
Close to Home
1 GRAND BAHAMA Lucayan National Park
HOW EASY IS IT? The phrase travel day does not really apply. Our flight left Miami at 8 a.m.
We were on the runway in Freeport at 8:50 a.m. HOW EXOTIC IS IT? The directions from the
airport to the rippled, sandy bank of Gold Rock Beach went like this: Drive east one hour and
pull off at the compost toilet. Take off your shoes and prepare the camera. My timing, by
accident, was perfect. The tide was on its way out, revealing a textured beach the width of
a football field. There were no chaise rentals or food stands. Which makes it sound strange
to offer the following tip: Bring your own Sands (the local beer). ZACH STOVALL
1 Bahamas 2 Mt. Desert 3 Dry Tortugas 4 Channel Islands 5 Orcas Island
1
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5
Look at that map. A world of extreme escapes is as near as you want it to be.
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MOUNT DESERT ISLAND,
MAINE Acadia National Park
HOW EASY IS IT? From Bangor
its a casual 70-minute drive to
this misunderstood spot.
HOW EXOTIC IS IT? I made the
mistake of pronouncing Mount
Desert as if I were surrounded
by cacti. The local way is
dessert, and its fair to say
no coast in the East is so dra-
matically rocky. From the top of
Cadillac Mountain, I could see
Nova Scotia, exotic in its own
Canadian way, 100 miles in the
distance. JON WHITTLE
4 CHANNEL ISLANDS
Off the coast of Santa
Barbara, California
HOW EASY IS IT? As breezy
as a three-hour ferry ride
(islandpackers.com)
HOW EXOTIC IS IT? The
closer my hiking shoes
take me to the beach on
San Miguel Island, the
noisier it gets. Bellow-
ing. Snorting. Barking.
Its all carrying across
the windswept isle. At
the crest of a craggy
bluff Im greeted with a
drama-filled spectacle.
Thousands of northern
elephant seals, California
sea lions and northern
fur seals squabble in the
sand. This is their island.
Im just a lonely spectator.
CHUCK GRAHAM
5 ORCAS ISLAND
Among the 172 islands in
Washingtons San Juans
HOW EASY IS IT? One hour
from Seattle (plane) or
from Anacortes (ferry)
HOW EXOTIC IS IT? An over-
look emerges from the old-
growth forest. Ive passed
a stream filled with spawn-
ing salmon and a waterfall
spilling into a lost world of
moss and ferns. Up here
on a high perch Orcas is
totally isolated. The white
wake of a ferry navigating
past a deep fjord shows
a symbolic connection
from this island to a far-off
landmass capped by the
snow-covered Cascade
Mountains. I can see the
mainland, but Im nowhere
near it. BOB FRIEL
Dry ortugas 40 minues by seaplane from key wes
here, out the window of the seaplane, an enormous yard
seems to be oating in the Gulf of Mexico. Were techni-
cally in the U.S., but closer to Cuba than to the Florida
peninsula. his truly is the forgotten land: Fort Jefferson,
former home to army deserters and conspirators. he plane
touches down among the islands and maneuvers to shore.
I step off holding the only carry-on necessary for this trip:
snorkel gear. Oh, this is gonna be good. drytortugasinfo.com jw
Sapelo Island, Georgia
XEasy After a 20-minute ferry
ride, you rent a banged-up
four-wheel-drive. XExotic
Along the dirt paths are a
church made of driftwood,
homes made with tabby, and
70 full-time residents.
Vancouver Island
XEasy Seaplanes go from
mainland to no mans land
in an hour. XExotic This is
a microcosm of Canadian
wilderness. Bears. Elk. Killer
whales. Totem poles. Its also
the warmest spot in Canada.
Little Pine Key, Florida
XEasy Its a flat three-hour
drive from Miami. XExotic
Prepare to feel 1) the ground
shake when iguanas fall from
trees and 2) Key deer licking
your elbows (bucks are the size
of yellow labs, and tame too).
3
EASY&EXOTI C
Close to Home
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Story and Photos by JAD DAVENPORT
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EASY&EXOTI C
Gauguin painted Saint-Pierre Bay while living
here. The artwork fooled the author twice.
This is not Tahiti.
Its the scene of
a Paul Gauguin
painting, yes. But
this is Martinique.
And theres one
troubling question
we need to
answer about it.
proof
of
paradise
T
he taxi comes to a
sudden stop. I jump out
and slide down a steep
embankment in a clatter
of loose rocks. Vines snag
my legs and branches tear
at my camera strap.
Monsieur! Come back!
the driver calls from the
road above. I can take you
to a much better belle vue
to make your picture.
But Im not hunting for just any beau-
tiful view of Saint-Pierre Bay on the
northwest coast of Martinique. Im
searching for the view painted by Paul
Gauguin in 1887, the one with bright
blue water beneath a brooding volcano
(see previous page). I have a wrinkled
copy of the painting in my hand. When
I showed it to the driver a couple of
hours ago and asked if he knew the
location, he said he did.
Oui, oui. ahiti.
his is a problem, because were not
in ahiti. his is the Caribbean. I cant
fault the driver. Flash a Gauguin paint-
ing anywhere in the world, and the
rst word on peoples lips is ahiti.
So braided together are the ahitian
islands and the legend of Gauguins
art that the most luxurious cruise line
sailing around French Polynesia these
days is naturally named Gauguin.
Im guilty too. Years ago I bought a
print of a Gauguin painting at my college
art fair. It hung in a progressive series of
dorm rooms and basement apartments.
When winters in upstate New York gave
me cabin fever and I needed proof that
I could like Gauguin drop out of
society and go live on a tropical island, Id
soak up the foam-core scenery on my wall.
Gauguins bay was out there waiting for me.
his would have been ne, except I
got married and bought a house, and my
dented print was replaced by a ne-art
book that I nally read recently. In it, to
my surprise, was this: Long before his
portraits of ahiti brought him fame,
Gauguin had a brief and star-crossed
affair with another island. hat paint-
ing of paradise I had pinned my dreams
on? Not Bora Bora. It wasnt even half-
way around the world. Its a three-hour
ight from Miami: Martinique.
I felt betrayed, but also excited. It
was like nding out Dad was engaged
before he met Mom, but that his an-
ce was a movie star. I needed to meet
her. So a few months later I packed up
a neat folder of Gauguins early prints
and sketches and boarded an American
Airlines ight to Fort-de-France.
But when I arrived on the island to
nd my painted paradise and to take a
picture, it proved to be elusive. Now,
on my last day, the driver and I are for
hours scouting the wild coastline of
northern Martinique. We have little
daylight left, and the view from this
ravine is one of the last spots I havent
checked. I collect myself after sliding,
take a rm stance, and try to recreate
the painting in my Nikons viewnder.
It ... is a perfect match. Almost.
Its impossible to photograph the bay
and the volcano without the buildings
of Saint-Pierre in the foreground. he
city was here when Gauguin made his
painting too. I know this from research.
I look at the painting again. here are
no buildings. How and where did he
nd an angle with virgin forest, and no
city? he thought nags at me.
I climb back to the road and pull
CLOSE YOUR EYES X You can imagine
Tahiti when you step off the plane
in Martinique. Its a pretty quick trip.
American Airlines flies to the island
twice weekly from Miami in just un-
der three hours. The itineraries of at
least nine cruise lines include stops
at the port near Fort-de-France.
EASIER FOR US X Martinique might
be a French territory, but it sits
4,350 miles from Paris. Thats
slightly farther than the distance
between Los Angeles and Tahiti.
EASY FLIGHT TO MARTINIQUE
MIAMI
Caribbean
Sea
MARTINIQUE
PUERTO
RICO
Atlantic
Ocean
40
Grande Anse des Salines is one of Martiniques most
spectacular beaches. Red ginger flowers and songs about
the French Caribbean add to the islands colorful identity. A
unique natural walkway leads to Cap Est Lagoon Resort.
41
The street scene around the capital, Fort-de-France, is typical-
ly busy. Islanders come out for Creole cuisine and the shade
at La Savane Park. Artist Laurent Valere (above) is among the
few who have local insight about Gauguins paintings.
THE MANGO PICKERS Gauguin
romanticized the life of farmers
who struggled to shed the burden
of slavery. He wrote that he enjoyed
watching the coming and going of
women in brightly-coloured finery
on Martinique. The few people here
who know of Gauguin dont neces-
sarily share his idea of paradise.
of the sketches I have is of a neighbor-
hood in the city center. On one street is
the studio Gauguin used as his mailing
address when he arrived as a penniless
former stockbroker from Paris.
I think I know where that is, Marie
said, surprised, leading me on our scav-
enger hunt through town.
Gauguin called Martinique a para-
dise, I say from behind her. He called
it the land of the Creole gods.
Marie snorts. his idea of paradise
he created, Oh, you live under the sun,
you dont work, you are drinking and
dancing and loving. It might have been
paradise for him because he was a white
man in the 19th century and he was on a
permanent holiday. But Martinique was
not paradise for the women.
We nd a building with Gauguins
old address at the edge of La Savane
Park, where a statue of Josephine
Bonaparte stands (Napoleons wife
was born in Martinique). he two-
story building is wedged between a
jewelry store and an osteopathic ofce.
Just as in the sketch, planks of sunshine
slant down on the shoppers. Except for
the absent backdrop of green moun-
tains, we could be standing on a side-
walk in Papeete, ahiti.
Nothing much has changed, Marie
observes. Maybe just the details.
Gauguin didnt linger long in Fort-
de-France. He hadnt abandoned a wife
and ve children in Paris just to relocate
to another urban life. He wrote that he
wanted to live a savage life, and he
soon found it in rural Martinique.
I cant tell you my enthusiasm for
life in the French colonies, he wrote
his embittered wife. Nature is at its
most opulent, the climate hot, with cool
spells intervening. With a little money
you can have all that is needed to be
happy. hen he begged for cash.
over he next few days i search
out Martiniques natural opulence
around the south. Its tough to escape
the endless march of scooped beaches
dripping with coconut palms and slen-
der French tourists. he smooth roads
look like they were rolled out last night,
the stripes painted this morning, and
Lycra-clad pelotons weave among a
parade of shiny Peugeots and Renaults.
But, as they did for Gauguin, the sen-
sual charms of the south start to derail
When I pull out my photocopies of
the paintings like lost-dog fliers,
almost everyone looks at them
and says, Oui, oui. Tahiti.
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out another painting (see page 44). It
shows a sunny beach with trees, a goat
and some shermen. Hardly solid land-
marks. But theyre my last hope.
Do you know where this one was
painted? I ask the driver.
he driver crushes out his cigarette
and examines it. Oui, oui, he says,
driving off to nd the spot. And this
time he does not say ahiti.
i all sars a few days earlier.
he search immediately hits some
highs and lows. Marie-Annick Paulin-
Pyram is a local historian Ive found in
downtown Fort-de-France. She knows
Gauguins name. When I was young, I
wore all of Gauguins colors, just like
the women in his paintings. More
promising, she knows he didnt isolate
himself in ahiti, that he did some of
his best work here in Martinique. Marie
pauses to watch brightly dressed women
sashay past in bold red, yellow and green
madras. Slaves werent allowed to wear
pretty colors or any sign of wealth, so
when they were emancipated, they cel-
ebrated their new lives with color.
Maries own white and blue dress bil-
lows as she hustles between pedestrians.
Finding her was a stroke of luck. In the
few days Ive wandered Fort-de-France,
pulling out my color photocopies like
lost-dog fliers, almost everyone has
politely looked at them and said, Oui,
oui ahiti. But when I showed the
paintings to Marie she beamed in recog-
nition. hen she corrected my pronun-
ciation of Gauguin. Its GO-ga, she
said. You must swallow the n.
I taught Marie something too. One
43
The paintings never match the
panorama. The city is in the way.
And then it dawns on me: Its the
19th-century version of Photoshop.
coastal plain rises into ahitian-style
mornes, jungle-draped mountains lost
in the clouds. Houses in small villages
are all in that lovely state of colonial
decay water-stained stucco walls and
tiled roofs furred with ferns.
he road eventually slinks below
hulking Mount Pele and drops us into
the port of Saint-Pierre. Down along
the beach men are setting up a stage and
women in madras unpack food stalls.
We ask around for the museum, but
were met with confused looks and head
shaking. Finally an old man walking a
goat on a leash points up the side of the
mountain. he car barely makes it up
the steep moss-slick track.
When we reach the top, I see it: the
art museum. All thats left is a concrete
shell. ree branches grow through
glassless windows. In a mat of leaves
and mud I nd an exhibition poster, a
decomposing reminder of Gauguins
presence on Martinique. his is when
I pull out my copies of the paintings of
the bay and show them to the driver. We
need to go down near the water and nd
it. One more time. Our nal shot.
we drive up and down he road
on the coast, stopping to compare the
paintings with the panorama. hey
never match. he city is always in our way.
heres no vantage point where Saint-
Pierre is gone. Not now. Not in the 1880s.
And then it dawns on me: Photoshop.
Gauguin must have performed the 19th-
century version of it on his work. He
erased the city from his paintings, placing
a virgin forest in its place. He created not
what he saw, but the paradise he imagined.
he driver understands too. He
drives into a sandy lot and parks. We
walk through the sea grape trees down
to the water. I take out a dog-eared
painting and hold it up.
he Bay of Saint-Pierre, the driver
nods. Oui. Martinique.
he volcano and beach match up
perfectly. his is definitely where
Gauguin stood, pretending Saint-
Pierre wasnt there.
Gauguin fell ill and left Martinique
after only six months, never to return.
One May morning not long after he
departed, Mount Pele detonated. A
nuee ardente a glowing ash cloud
incinerated Saint-Pierre and all of
the surrounding villages. he trees in
this painting, the shermen, the boat,
even the goat, were most likely incin-
erated in just a few seconds along with
another 30,000 residents. here was
only one survivor, a drunk in the win-
dowless jail cell.
In a twist of fate, nature imitated art.
It did what Gauguin could only imag-
ine and erased every trace of civilization.
he town was later rebuilt, but not as
big. Gauguin? He sailed to ahiti and
died of a morphine overdose. he date
of his death: May 8, 1903, exactly one
year after Saint-Pierre was destroyed.
Beyond the beach on the promenade,
I hear the zouk drums thumping. oday
is May 8, the anniversary of the erup-
tion. As they do every year, the towns-
people mourn the dead and celebrate
life. he sun glows on the trees and
shermen and beach. I raise my Nikon
and make my own picture of paradise.
OUR CARIBBEAN BEST OF LISTS: islands.com
SAINT-PIERRE BAY, MARTINIQUE The
beach as Gauguin painted it in 1887
is nearly identical to how the author
found it today with a major detail
amiss. It was here where the painter
said he felt my real self. Ironically,
this timeless seascape, like most
of Gauguins work, connects the
painters legend with his life in Tahiti.
my mission. Every so often Ill sh out
my paintings and ask islanders where
each scene might be. And I hear that
same singsong answer, Oui, oui, ahiti.
One night, at a party, a local artist
named Laurent comes up to me and asks,
What brought you to Martinique? We
dont see many Americans here.
I was hoping to take pictures of
Martinique the way Paul Gauguin saw
it, but I think Im a century too late.
Au contraire, Laurent says. Its still
here. But you need to go up to the
north side of the island. Up near Saint-
Pierre. It is still unspoiled there. I think
there might be a museum too.
I hire the taxi driver the next day. he
ride north is beautiful. he crowded
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Church spires and impossibly green water at Les Anses-
dArlet are reminiscent of Tahiti, as are the flowers worn
by women. The shore (below) is strangely similar to what
Gauguin painted more than a century ago (opposite).
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Distant and Direct
1 FIJI Tadrai Resort on Mana Island
HOW EASY IS IT? Sure, its an 11-hour flight from Los Angeles to Nadi. But there are no con-
nections. I left America at 11:30 p.m., fell asleep during a movie, and woke up on Fijis main
island of Viti Levu with drool on my shirt. HOW EXOTIC IS IT? Im not sure the wet spot around
my collar dried during the boat ride out to the resort. The sight of thatched villas among
palm-lined hills, the wet landing at low tide it couldnt have been choreographed any
better. Before drying off I took a short walk over a hill and into a classic Fijian village. Hard to
believe that 15 hours earlier I was sweating through a classic L.A. traffic jam. JON WHITTLE
hanks to some clever ight options, these far-ung escapes are one step away.
EXOTI C&EASY
1 Fiji 2 Abu Dhabi 3 Cape Verde 4 Azores 5 Taipei
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47
2
ABU DHABI Sheikh Zayed
Grand Mosque
HOW EASY IS IT? Airport to
airport, its 13 hours from
Washington, D.C. Then its a
20-minute ride to the mosque.
Entry is free. So are guides.
HOW EXOTIC IS IT? This is one
of 82 domes on the mosque.
Looking up, I saw Swarovski
crystal-studded chandeliers. At
my feet lay the worlds largest
hand-knotted carpet (60,000
square feet). LORI BARBELY
EXOTI C&EASY
Distant and Direct
Cape Verde eigh-hour fligh from boson o praia
he man at customs pauses. Im a visitor to his homeland,
350 miles off western Africa. He says Cape Verdeans have
an island passion called sodade, and soon I will too. OK, I
say. Later, as I walk along a dusty road after kite surng, I
hear blues in the distance. It pulls me past children blowing
soap bubbles and shermen mending nets. he song is being
sung on a beach, near a caldron of sh soup. I cant translate
the Creole lyrics, but sodade is settling in. JILL K. ROBINSON
Belize from Dallas
XEasy Less than three hours
from Texas. Or fly nonstop
from Atlanta, Charlotte, New-
ark, among others. XExotic On
land, see the highest concen-
tration of Maya ruins. On water,
snorkel with nice sharks.
Iceland from Sanford
XEasy Sanford? Its the quiet
airport 30 miles north of Or-
lando. Iceland Air flies out of
there. Denver and Seattle too.
XExotic Bathe in hot mineral
pools, walk amid glaciers, and
leave totally refreshed.
Cancun from Everywhere
XEasy The dots connect to
here from Nashville, Lansing,
Milwaukee, Salt Lake City,
Hartford; pick a city with an
airport. XExotic Beaches cant
be whiter, and underwater
coral cant be more colorful.
4 AZORES Nine islands
far off Portugals coast,
and the closest European
destination to the U.S.
HOW EASY IS IT? Less
than five hours from
Boston. Oakland (yes,
California) also has
summer flights (sata.pt).
HOW EXOTIC IS IT? On the
island of So Miguel, I
see houses built over fire
in a village called, well,
Furnas. Its nestled within
the caldera of an active
volcano. Geysers fueled
by hot magma spew
steam near homes and
businesses. In the former
public bath, now a cafe, I
order tea steeped in water
from a superheated spring.
And I look up for hot flying
objects. ZACH STOVALL
5 TAIPEI Capital of Taiwan,
Asias oft-overlooked island
HOW EASY IS IT? From San
Francisco its a 13-hour
flight. In the heart of Taipei,
people who speak English
are everywhere, thanks
to mandatory language
lessons from third grade
up. They see my confused
looks and offer help before
I can even ask.
HOW EXOTIC IS IT? First stop
is the sky mall of Taipei
101, the worlds tallest
green building. Down
the road is the village of
Pingxi, where kids light
and launch those rice-
paper lanterns near a wild
gorge. Tea? Of course.
Vegetarian 7-Elevens?
Those are here too.
AMANDA CASTLEMAN
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mahew smyh hasn spoken in 12 days. hes he ype
of guy youd only find here in amed, in norh bali.
ST ORY BY NAT HAN MY ERS PHOT OS BY ZACH ST OVAL L
&
Jemeluk Bay is
where Smyths
self-improvement
visions take shape.
51
Listen for a moment, Matthew says
when I meet him. Im not sure he real-
izes that hes just broken nearly two
weeks of silence. What do you hear?
I dont hear a thing.
Matthew nods. Exactly. Its a non-
answer to a non-question. Youll under-
stand only if you can nd your way to
this place called Amed.
he rest of Bali is the racket. New
hotels. Street hawkers. Nightclubs bat-
tling for attention. Roosters, dogs and
gamelan music. Everything screaming:
Welcome to Paradise! Maybe youve heard.
Ive followed the whispers elsewhere.
Way up the road. Past empty rice pad-
dies and lonely mountains. o a place in
Amed thats painfully quiet and personal.
Where oxygen is craved.
he sign out front reads: Yoga,
Meditation and Breathwork. Ive been
told that holding my breath for ridicu-
lously long periods of time can make me
a gentler husband, a more patient father,
a new and improved person. Its why Im
here. When I mention this to Matthew,
he chuckles. hen sighs. hen smiles.
Its been a while since he spoke.
Even when he gets his voice back,
Matthew is soft-spoken. A rosy-cheeked
Irish lad running an ocean-view yoga
studio on the cobblestone bay. Life is
slow and rustic. OK, its poor too. But
dont tell these people. Brightest smiles
on earth. Amed is ideal for this class,
Matthew says. here are no bars or
construction sites. When the sun goes
down, people go to sleep.
jungle-green mounains wrap
around the bay. From a ridge above, you
can see every inch of coral reef, and the
dark core where it plunges deep. Blue
skies and a lazy breeze are here on a six-
month holiday. Apneista students shuf-
e onto the beach before class, drinking
tea. Im not sure how I t in. Im not a
seeker. Or a wanderer. Maybe were all
lost souls. I nd it strange that a class on
breath holding has drawn us together.
S
myhs self-imposed vow of silence is fiing
for he apneisa free-diving founder. here in
his lile beach-view villa. sreching. breahing.
his is his search. now hes making i mine.
Itas rest et quam
quam, evene
con plautem ium
quiaepra nobistem
vel il int quaerum
We settle onto yoga mats and the
course begins. At its core, diving is pri-
mal: spearshing, pearl diving, babies in
the womb. Of course, Western culture
added bleachers and Guinness records
(the longest tankless dive: 22 minutes;
the deepest: 116 meters). At profes-
sional-level free-diving events, competi-
tors must prove they havent blacked out
to avoid being disqualied (gasp!).
Matthew, a former competitor,
assures us this wont be goal-oriented
diving. hen he asks us to hold our
breath for as long as we can.
Hold it until you feel an uncontrol-
lable urge to exhale, he says, and then
hold it some more.
Staying calm is the key. Fear and
panic divert oxygen to the extremities
to aid in impending ght or ight. Calm
keeps oxygen where you actually need it,
in your core and brain. Even then, the
pain and urge to exhale arent due to
lack of oxygen, but rather a building tox-
icity of carbon dioxide. Because of this,
we always return to the surface before
we really need to. An internal fail-safe.
When everyone in class exhales short
of two minutes, Matthew says after two
days of practice well double our capac-
ity. I have to admit, silently, that breath
holding is already super un-fun.
Up until the 1960s, Matthew
explains, scientists believed that you
couldnt dive below 30 meters with-
out your lungs collapsing. hen peo-
ple started going 50 and 60 meters.
Science couldnt explain it.
It tried, of course. Even gave the
phenomenon a name: mammalian
dive reflex. In practical terms, the
reex slows heart rate, closing capillar-
ies and changing the way blood ows
through our bodies. What this really
means is that our bodies are changing
underwater. Adapting.
heres a theory called Aquatic Ape
that suggests mankind evolved straight
from the water, Matthew says. I dont
know how much of that I buy into, but
theres a feeling out there of being at
peace. As if were coming home. We
spent the rst nine months of our lives
in the water. Our bodies are made of
water. his is not a foreign place.
He grabs his ns and heads toward
the bay. he rest of us hurry to follow.
Were going home, to the water.
he nex morning, i wake wih
sunrise between my toes. From bed
I order my cappuccino with a straw.
Dawn pours itself across the distant
islands. Fleets of outriggers return from
their outings. Everything looks golden.
Amed wakes up early, but it stays in
bed awhile too. An hour-long yawn. he
view from Griya Hotel captures every-
thing. Sunrise to sunset. Sea and jungle.
I have to admit, silently, that breath holding is already super un-fun.
The class is all
about calm, which
plays perfectly in
Amed. Its only road
was paved in 2000.
53
Boat and bird. his is the rst true lux-
ury hotel in the area, but it wont be the
last. A bellman offers to sell me land. A
housekeeper drops a real-estate agents
business card. he golden dawn turns
copper blue; I roll out of bed into my
private plunge pool and hold my breath
underwater for a full three seconds.
I take a motorbike along an asphalt
track clinging to the cliffs and hooking
into each bay like a curious shopper. No
jewelry or bootleg DVDs here though.
he villages are themselves. Fresh pro-
duce and the mornings sh line the only
road. Mothers carry children in batik
slings. Men haul their boats from the
water, smoking clove cigarettes. Gossip
and nothing. he quiet pace of life.
Im the only paleface around. Soon
the dive shops will be opening. Fitting
students with big metal tanks and inat-
able vests. Carting them off to the dive
boats in buses and vans. Noses buried
in their guidebooks to see where-to-
go-next before theyve even been here.
I have an urge to return to the hotel and
check a few e-mails before class, but I
stroll down to the beach instead, strain-
ing to remain disconnected.
hats the problem these days. Even
on vacation, we check in with the ofce,
touch base with the real world and
steal glimpses of V to stay in touch.
Just as scuba divers bring oxygen to
the ocean oor, we travel with laptops,
iPads and a careful eye on Wi-Fi hot
spots. Weve lost our ability to unplug.
Underwater is the last frontier.
I check my watch. Its time for class.
Im already late. Even my journey to
totally disconnect is stuck on a timeline.
How do you just let go?
be like waer. floaing. gazing
into the depths. Silently reciting the
mantra: Be like water. Be like water.
HOW EASY IS BALI?
THE EASIEST WAY Islands staff
photographer Zach Stovall was
reminded many times by Bali-
based author Nathan Myers that
Bali is easy. So Zach requested
a nonstop flight to Bali. He got
three of them. [1] Orlando to Los
Angeles: 5 hrs. 10 min. [2] Los
Angeles to Hong Kong: 14 hrs. 45
min. [3] Hong Kong to Denpasar:
4 hrs. 40 min. [4] Then it was a
one-hour drive to Amed. Easy.
IT GETS EASIER Amed is a region of
seven slow coastal towns. Even
by tranquil standards, the Griya
Hotel is the most ridiculously
easy place (thegriya.com).
hats the problem. Weve lost our ability to unplug. Underwater is
BALI
HONG KONG
CALIFORNIA
FLORIDA
Pacific
Ocean
54
The Griyas plunge
pool was a warm-
up for the deeper
dive one motorbike
ride up the road.
Its designed to relax and distract my
busy-bee mind. Be like water. Prepare
to dive. Be like water. Get ready to stop
breathing altogether. Be like water.
I take one nal breath and plunge
straight down.
Underwater, my body knows what
to do. Not just as a surfer and a fetus,
but as someone feeling the call beneath
the sea. ranquility. Freedom. Escape.
heres no progress down here. No
pressure. But my burning lungs disagree.
Darkness presses in. Were in the deep
of the bay with just a lonely stretch of
yellow rope for company. Im not sure I
fully understand free diving. Or enjoy it.
But I pull myself deeper anyway.
Be like water.
At the end of the rope is a tennis
ball. wenty meters straight down. I
grasp for my inner calm. My dolphin
DNA. My be like water. But what I
really want is to breathe again.
he return to the surface is fast and
easy. he air in my lungs expands and
carries me upward like a natural rescue
buoy. o the bright light and blessed
oxygen. Ive been here before too. My
whole life. I think about checking e-mail.
he next student plunges down the
rope. Again and again, up and down
the rope we go. After those exhilarat-
ing rst few dives, free diving becomes
a disciplined matter of practice and
repetition. Deeper. Longer. Visiting a
place we cannot stay. Experiencing a
calm we cant contain. Like most forms
of tranquility, its a little dull.
My mind wanders. So I feign a
cramp and oat away from the group
until their bobbing heads are just buoys
on the bay. Free from free diving, I drift.
Sun in my eyes. hought bubbles over
my head. Maybe I was never a dolphin
at all, but a jellyfish. Or a barnacle.
Something that has trouble letting go.
I roll onto my stomach, tuck my
chin, kick my feet and leave the world
behind. Down, down, down I go, using
everything Ive just learned. I reach the
reef without a thought. Shafts of sun-
light dance around me in blue columns.
Coral spires and unearthly dunes. his
alien planet seems so familiar.
he natives surround me. A thou-
sand sh at once. Undisturbed by any
bubbling space suit or gurgling re-
breather, they swim right up to me.
Look me in the eye as if to ask Is it
really you? Have you come home?
So lonely, so wonderful is this breath-
less silence, I nearly cry. Salty tears.
Same as the sea. But no, little shy, I
am not home. Just an alien on vacation.
I wish I could stay, but I have e-mails
to return. And a massage booked at the
hotel. We should denitely stay in touch,
dear shies. But for now I need to catch
my breath. WORTH THE TRIP?: islands.com
the last frontier. I check my watch. Its time for class. Im already late.
55
Call 877.796.1283 or visit www.moorings.com/islands
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When it comes to your dream vacation, the ease
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Or Carriacou? Or the Bay Islands? A new stamp on your passport
doesnt have to leave a giant dent in your wallet. A lobster dinner. A
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Bay Islands
AFFORDABLE
Most visitors come to Roatan via cruise
ship, so theres little demand for cars
and rooms (notice the quiet airport).
Even then, its mostly divers looking
for a place to hang wetsuits. he result:
high-end resorts with low-end rates.
BAREFOOT CAY About 30 minutes from
busy West End are these
ocean-view lofts ($215)
and beach villas. From
the dock its an easy
swim (or kayak) to the
world-famous reef. We
wore swimsuits to every
dinner the staff is like
family. barefootcay.com
PALMETTO BAY PLAN-
TATION his palapa
(left) is practically on
the reef. he villas
($225) sit among coco-
nut trees on a mile-long
beach and are almost as
serene as the underwater world. heres
even a tropical-bird preserve on the prop-
erty. palmettobayplantation.com
ANTHONYS KEY Roatan is to diving
what Sicily is to pasta. Everyone whos
visiting the island has come to try it.
Anthonys Key caters to that singular
focus. he room rate ($168) includes
three dives and three meals a day. he
wallet stays in the safe. anthonyskey.com
STAY FOR $168-$225 A NIGHT
If the Bay Islands are about diving, well
stick to the dive theme with meals too
without resorting to the Hot Dog Hut.
BALEADAS When the manager at the
Black Pearl Golf Course offered bale-
adas, I thought he was talking about a
special type of ball. No, a baleada is the
Honduran version of a light burrito. I
wound up eating three of them because 1)
theyre better than burritos, 2) I was fam-
ished, and 3) they cost $1 to $2 around
the island, even at the upscale Black Pearl.
MACHUCA his fish soup made with
coconut milk is found on the streets of
the islands oldest village of Punta Gorda.
Its a quick $5 fill-up emphasis on fill.
TROPICAL FRUIT Dining from the trees
is truly local and really cheap. We bought
two types of mangos and enough sweet
pineapple to create a big $3 lunch. Dont
eat cashews off the trees (below). he
fruit is edible, but the nut has to be pro-
cessed so it doesnt scorch the lips.
What you see in this
picture explains why a
snorkel mask and fins
replace Facebook and
DirectV for island
entertainment.
USE THE SEA Its avail-
able 24 hours a day.
One night on the dock
at Barefoot Cay I saw
the phenomenon of
bioluminescence an
underwater fireworks
show courtesy of glow-
ing plankton. A six-pack of Port Royal
beer added to the moment: $5.
FIND CAMP BAY BEACH On one end of
Roatan is West Bay, where everything is
available: boat tours, Jet Skis, crowded
all-inclusives. Its why I made the drive
the opposite direction until the islands
only paved road turned to gravel and ruts,
and landed my rental car on a beach only
the locals use. Call it $10 for gas.
GO OUT FOR RECESS Bring a bag of
books and school supplies for the Sand
Castle Library near Sandy Bay (literacy
is maybe 50 percent on Roatan). Bring
$20 worth of ibuprofen to Nurse Peggys
medical clinic (her affordable care act
costs locals about $5 a visit). Do any of this
and a soccer game is likely to break out
with thankful kids. rober sephens
EAT FOR $1-$5 PLAY FOR $0-$20
Champagne flights also arrive from Toronto and Montreal.
$155 a night is the cost of a private island half a mile from Utila.
The weirdest mini-golf course is on Utila. The $6 fee includes a beer.
Spare lempiras are collected at the airport to fund local charities.
on $169 a day
J
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HOST 2014
60
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Anguilla
AFFORDABLE
on $155 a day
Anguilla is known as the
island for celebs looking
to escape the paparazzi.
But a wallet that size is
not a prereq for a visit.
LITTLE BAY heres
no stumbling onto this
beach (left). Arriving
by boat is one way, but
climbing down the rope
(read: not rope ladder)
from the top of the cliff
is the fun (and free)
way. At the bottom, a
curve of sand ensconced
by mighty cliffs is all mine. Rent snorkel
gear at the Arawak Inn for $10.
RENT BIKES he trail we chose in
Island Harbour shouldve been marked
advanced, but nothings marked on
this unspoiled part of the isle. Not trail
heads, nor beaches, so its ripe for explor-
ing. After a few forward topples, I get
the hang of dodging rocks and sliding
through sand. Which Im thankful for
when spots like Captains Bay pop into
sight. Rent bikes at Arawak Inn for $18.
SCILLY CAY Shoal Bay, named one of
the worlds top 10 beaches by he ravel
Channel, is worth seeing in the morning,
but I like Scilly Cay for staying all day.
he short boat ride is free from Island
Harbour; just wave and theyll pick you up.
First-class food without the pomp is
the culinary vibe on Anguilla, which has
more than 90 restaurants.
ON DA ROCKS he Saturday $5 crayfish
nights drew me in, but it was the view of
Scilly Cay, the locals and the rum punches
that kept me there most of the night.
HUNGRYS Lobster quesadillas stuffed
with melted Gouda; goat soup (try it!);
shrimp creole with scalloped potatoes
and rice and peas all served out of a
van that looks like the Mystery Machine
from Scooby Doo ... and all less than $12
each. Owners Irad and Papi open the
doors at 11:30 a.m. hungrysgoodfood.com
SANDY ISLAND A car-battery-powered
grill on a spit of sand just happens to serve
the best Anguillan lobster on the island,
and its the place to splurge a little. Split
the $55 lobster; its huge and comes with
rice and peas, seashell pasta salad, slaw and
fresh greens. mysandyisland.com
Reasonably priced digs arent the norm,
but they do exist, and mostly on the east-
ern end. Its just a 10-or-so-minute drive
to hot spots like Sandy Ground, home of
the famous Elvis and its rum punch.
ARAWAK BEACH INN Staying here isnt
about five-star luxury or over-the-top
amenities. Its about
laid-back simplicity
and superior service.
Its about grabbing a
beer at the bar on the
honor system. Its about
those beers costing only
$3, and an oceanfront
deluxe room with a
wraparound balcony
going for less than $200.
For 2014, low-season
rates start at $175 per
night. arawakbeach.com
MILLYS INN Set high
on a bluff above prime Shoal Bay East, all
four rooms have water views (its worth a
few extra bucks for the top floor). Millys
daughter, Samantha, and her husband,
Vince, run the inn and are a powder keg
of info on island dos and donts, like the
fact that taxis are a rip and its cheaper to
rent a car. his location in high season at
a price tag of just $160 a night (for top
floor) cant be beat. Low-season rate is
$150. millysinn.ai audrey s. clair
Fly nonstop into St. Martin from Chicago and D.C. too.
Locals refer to east as above and west as below.
Four of the seven endangered sea-turtle species are found here.
No one can be a citizen of Anguilla. Born here? Then youre British.
PLAY FOR $0-$18 EAT FOR $5-$55 STAY FOR $150-$175 A NIGHT
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DID YOU KNOW?
MIAMI
2:45
ATLANTA
4:04
ST. MARTIN
25-minute
ferry to
ANGUILLA
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TAHITI
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WHEN: Sept. 27-Oct. 4, 2014 (7 nights!)
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RATES start at $4,995 per person
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62
Dominica
AFFORDABLE
on $62 a day
Dominicas pleasures are largely out-
door, so it only makes sense to maxi-
mize time among them.
TIAS BAMBOO COTTAGES A 20-min-
ute, $15 taxi ride out of the capital city of
Roseau accesses ve steaming hot springs,
the ultimate perk at ias. A nighttime
soak is made all the more relaxing by
knowing my bed is yards away. Rates start
at $65 a night. tiasbamboocottages.com
HIBISCUS VALLEY INN he main, open-
air dining room feels like my summer camp
save for the dull roar of tree frogs and
tangle of bright fauna. Bungalows start at
$45 a night in low season. hibiscusvalley.com
PLAY FOR $5-$10
CORAL REEF Im mesmerized by the
tiny waves breaking on the lagoon, but
the counter girl at Coral Reef, on the
Calibishie coast, is immune to the beauty.
She frets over soccer on V while I wait
for the steamed sh of the day. For $12, its
a big portion, served with pasta and salad.
BIG PAPAS his is the go-to sunset
spot. I was part of the rst wave there to
work on $17 heaping plates of goat curry
or seafood, sided by breadfruit and salad.
MELVINAS CHAMPAGNE BEACH BAR
Come Saturday, Melvinas Champagne
Beach Bar named not for French
bubbly but the snorkel site just offshore
VICTORIA FALLS Of course I bring
my hiking boots to Dominica I just
didnt expect to go barefoot. My guide
suggests the Victoria Falls path as a
moderate introduction to the volca-
nic island, so we set off. he rst few
times I unlace to cross the White River,
I foolishly slide wet feet back into wool
socks. he squish of mud and slick of
rocks painted with algae wake me up
this is why Ive come: the rainforest,
with its fragrant mangoes and explo-
sion of girlie-color blossoms.
SCREWS SULPHUR SPRINGS In the hills
outside Roseau, $10 buys access to Screws
Sulphur Springs, seven cascading pools of
increasingly warmer temperatures. I settle
in at one of the hottest ones, waterfalls tum-
bling overhead, and
forget about every-
thing including
that my cell phone
doesnt work here.
Otherwise, Id beg
my driver to stay lon-
ger. screws spa .com
brooke moron
EAT FOR $12-$15
is the place to be. he kitchen doles
out some serious barbecue and fish
($10-$15), but the crowd, showing up
around 10 p.m., is there to cut loose. So
I stayed for the atmosphere, a Kubuli
beer and a lesson in Calypso after all,
nobody should leave the island without
knowing who the Mighty Sparrow is.
Dominica has more active
volcanoes for its size than any
other country in the world.
STAY FOR $45-$65 A NIGHT
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Visit www.StKittsTourism.kn for details
Prepare to Surrender
The French and British fought
over St. Kitts for hundreds of years.
Today, its still the crown jewel
of the Caribbean. And one visit will
capture your heart forever.
Only 3 hours from Miami
and less than 5 hours from JFK
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DID YOU KNOW?
FLY OUT FREE!
Visit www.MyOutIslands.com
Call 1-866-689-5505
BIMINI BIG GAME CLUB
RESORT & MARINA
Adventure for the Entire Family! Resort, Marina,
Fishing Center, Watersports Center and PADI Dive
Center. Big Game Bar & Grill, Vegetarian and Gluten
free menu. 800-867-4764 242-347-3391
Reservations@biggameclubbimini.com
www.BigGameClubBimini.com
GRAND ISLE RESORT & SPA
Exuma, Bahamas. Lavish in casual luxury. Reconnect
seamlessy. This spectacular oceanfront resort
offers 1-to-4-bedroom villas with spacious living
areas, gourmet kitchens, high-end amenities, and
extraordinary views. 866-380-5213 241-393-2841
www.GrandIsleResort.com
FERNANDEZ BAY VILLAGE
Discover the breath taking beauty and relaxed
atmosphere of Fernandez Bay Village. 12 beachfront
cottages on a mile of sugary white sand, outdoor
dining, tiki-bar, water sports.
800-940-1905 954-474-4821
www FernandezBayVillage.com
STANIEL CAY YACHT CLUB
Soothe your body, mind and soul with small island
charm. Your balcony will literally overhang the
clearest waters in the world. Come experience
the Exumas. 954-467-8920 242-355-2024
info@StanielCay.com www.StanielCay.com
SMALL HOPE BAY LODGE

Totally All Inclusive! Celebrating 50 years! 21
Beachfront Cottages. Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing
and More... Packages Available. 800-223-6961
shbinfo@SmallHope.com www.SmallHope.com
STELLA MARIS RESORT CLUB
Superb beaches and water sports; beautiful
rooms-cottages-villas; attentive services, and many
complimentary activities. On tranquil
Long Island, in the southern Bahamas.
800-426-0466 242-338-2051
reservations@StellaMarisResort.com
www.StellaMarisResort.com
TIAMO RESORT
Our luxury boutique resort on South Andros Island is
an idyllic place for an amazing escape. Relax on the
private, white sand beach or enjoy activities such as
diving, snorkeling, shing, and canoeing.
786-374-2442242-225-6871
www.TiamoResorts.com
VALENTINES RESORT & MARINA
Real Island Luxury Awaits Your Arrival. Each luxury
suite is equipped with a full kitchen, a spacious patio,
and incomparable dcor. Every detail is a stroke of
design genius - from the fabulous fabrics that ribbon
throughout the suites, to the sunken tubs in our
marble bathrooms. 866-389-6864
www.ValentinesResort.com
TREASURE CAY BEACH,
MARINA & GOLF RESORT
One of the best beaches in the world 3.5 miles
powder white beach,* Unspoiled & Uncrowded *
Championship Golf * Fly Free Specials * 3 Bars &
Restaurants* 150 Slip Marina * Watersports*
Scuba/Snorkeling/ Fishing Charters
800-327-1584 www.TreasureCay.com
CAT ISLAND
EXUMA
PIGEON CAY CLUB
A remote piece of paradise, the cottages offer
the ultimate in seclusion and breathtaking views.
Located steps from a private 3-mile stretch
of white, powdery sand beach. 242-354-5084
www.PigeonCayBahamas.com
CAT ISLAND ANDROS
ANDROS
EXUMA
BIMINI
LONG ISLAND
ABACO
EXUMA
HARBOUR ISLAND
HALVORSON HOUSE VILLA RESORT
Cat Islands newest destination. TripAdvisor 2013
Certicate of Excellence Winner. Romantic, serene,
and simple. Ideal for weddings and honeymoons
as well as family getaways for those who want to
reconnect. 6 villas on a secluded beach. Restaurant
on-site. 242-359-9500 www.HalvorsonHouse.com
CAT ISLAND
HIGHBOURNE CAY
A luxury private island with 8 cottages nestled
in undisturbed landscape, each offering spectacular
views. Its rst-class marina is steps from the beach
and features 750 feet of face dock for yachts up to
180 feet (8 draft) and 16 back-in slips for
boats up to 75 feet. 242-355-1008
www.HighbourneCayBahamas.com
64
Carriacou
AFFORDABLE
on $73 a day
With a prop-planes-only airstrip, all-
to-yourself beaches and no name-brand
hotels, Grenadas laid-back sister island
has the charm and prices of a place
unknown. More goats than people here.
PETIT CARENAGE For sweet isolation
and perfect sea-urchin shells I head to
Windward Village. Civilization seems far
away, yet this crescent is just a short walk
through mangrove forest from the road.
RUM SHOPS here are more than 100
of em. A visit to Bill Patersons, behind
his general store in Hillsborough, means
meeting other Kayaks (as Carriacouans are
known) over a $3.75 rum (coke on the side).
BAYALEAU POINT Perched on the
islands windward edge, none of the four
color-splashed cottages at Bayaleau Point
are alike, but all include basic budget-
helping kitchenettes. he breezy com-
munal deck that hangs above the ocean
is where the action is since I dene
action as lounging with a glass of owner
Dave Goldhills Magic Elixir, hypnotized
by distant islands bobbing in a turquoise
bath. Low-season rates from $65-$115 a
night. carriacoucottages.com
ROUND HOUSE COTTAGES Across
the isle on Sparrow Bay, chef-owner
Roxanne Russells dogs are happy to
LAMBI QUEEN he barbecue at Sherwin
Noels Lambi Queen in yrrel Bay attracts
major crowds every Friday night. Start
with lambi (conch) fritters, followed by
a whole grilled snapper, likely caught that
morning by Sherwins father. After dinner,
live steel pan, cold Caribs and standout
rum punch keep things interesting. he
whole snapper goes for about $15.
LAURENA II JERK CENTRE A hearty local
lunch of jerk chicken or pork with West
Indian sides like macaroni pie and peas
and rice set me back just a bit more than
my $5 venti frappuccino back home.
THE SLIPWAY Go for a romantic can-
dlelit dinner and a fab seared tuna and
tuna carpaccio in yrrel Bay. Its as
close to the beach as
I could get and still
keep my feet dry.
he menu changes
daily, but the prices
hover around $20.
slip wayrestaurantcar
riacou.com ann
vanderhoof
keep me company on my beach walks.
Surrounded by tropical owers, the trio
of cottages have small fridges and stove
tops, but frankly, mine didnt get much
of a workout. he quirky stone building
even its windows are round that I
can see from my door is home to Russells
acclaimed restaurant. Low-season rates of
$97-$120 a night. boglesroundhouse.com
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PLAY FOR $0-$5
STAY FOR $65-$120 A NIGHT
EAT FOR $8-$20
The Grenadines is the only
country in the Caribbean where
petroglyphs have been found.
www.aruba.com
BLUE RESIDENCES
This luxury condo resort offers 124 spacious
ocean-view rooms, suites and penthouses, most with
fully equipp ed kitchens. Amenities include an upscale
restaurant and bar, innity pool, spa and tness center.
1-800-728-4910
www.bluearuba.com
AMSTERDAM MANOR BEACH RESORT
Friendly & intimate resort located
at quiet Eagle Beach for some real me time.
Comfortable studios and suites, beach dining,
free Wi-Fi and warm smiles.
1-800-969-2310
www.amsterdammanor.com
HYATT REGENCY ARUBA RESORT, SPA & CASINO
Experience Authentic Island Chic at the islands
premier retreat on Palm Beach. The resort offers four
distinctive restaurants and bars with breathtaking views.
Transforming the expected to distinctly remarkable.
297-586-1234 800-223-1234
www.aruba.hyatt.com
aruba.reservations@hyatt.com
DID YOU KNOW?
This spring, discover hidden caves and coves, explore a shipwreck, or simply relax on
our award-winning white-sand beaches, and see why so many people return to Aruba
year after year. Book your escape today at aruba.com
2014 Aruba Tourism Authority
Defrost on
one of the
best beaches
in the world
66
Grand Bahama
AFFORDABLE
on $142 a day
Given a choice, Id rather travel by boat. So
the two-hour ride from Fort Lauderdale
to Grand Bahama was made for me.
GRAND LUCAYAN When traveling, the
rst thing I do when entering my room
is sprawl out on the bed. But at Grand
Lucayan, its the property itself, with
50,000 square feet of outdoor space,
that I want to sprawl out over. Gatsby-
style lawns lead to the mile-long cottony
beach (the east end is the quietest spot);
serpentine pools weave through the
grounds; plantation-style dining rooms
give way to swim-up bars and takeout
joints. And my oceanfront suite with
a double balcony (at only $126 a night
in low season) is bigger than my rst
apartment. Low-season standard rooms
for $125 a night. grandlucayan.com
OUTRIGGERS ON THE BEACH If its
Wednesday night on Grand Bahama,
the locals are here at this Smiths Cove
beachfront shack for the best fish fry
in town. heres soca music, a family-
friendly party atmosphere, and plates
loaded with whole sh, mac n cheese
and Bahamian spicy rice for $12; a giant
gully wash made with coconut water,
sweetened condensed milk and gin
sends it all down. After nishing, a local
guy at the next table turned to us and
said, Youre diving conch, which appar-
ently means you look tired. And he was
right. outriggersbeachclub.com
IRIES On-site at Grand Lucayan, this
first stop upon arriving at the resort
meant a welcome lunch of conch fritters
(with just the right amount of bread-
ing), lobster salad (only $12) drizzled
in homemade ginger dressing and a
Bahama Mama. grandlucayan.com
DOLPHIN ENCOUNTERS he $85 to play
with dolphins seemed a bit pricey, and the
entire idea hit me as, well, touristy. But
the facility at Unexso is more playground
than pen, its 9-acre lagoon divided up
into pools for the 14 bottlenose dolphins
that call it home. Petting Gumbay while
learning that dolphins eat one-third of
their body weight
per day in sh made
me glad I wasnt a
fish. Learning that
they do ocean free-
swims four times a
week made me forget
the entry fee and my
earlier trepidations.
unexso.com
BAHAMIAN BREWERY Marketed as
the ruly Bahamian Beer, Sands was
born on Grand Bahama in 2008 after a
name those beers competition among
the locals. ouring the 60,000-square-
foot site for just $5 ends in a tasting of
six brews in the upstairs bar (Strong Back
Stout, please). bahamianbrewery.com as
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STAY FOR $125 A NIGHT
EAT FOR $12-$20
PLAY FOR $5-$85
During U.S. prohibition, the
Bahamas served as home base
for the smuggling of alcohol.
Discover Utopias secluded island retreat.
Weekly oceanfront room packages
range from adventurous to romantic and
relaxing -Diving, Yoga and private island
picnics for two!
US 512-333-1684
Reservations@utopiautila.com
www.utopiautila.com
Utopia Village Dive & Spa Resort
Utila
of honduras
BAY ISLANDS
Luxury boutique resort on Roatan.
Private beachfront bungalows and villas,
spa, gourmet dining, pool. Valet diving
with 5-star dive center, Barefoot Divers.
866-246-3706
Info@BarefootCay.com
www.BarefootCay.com
Barefoot Cay Resort
Roatan
DID YOU KNOW?
67
Free brochures, catalogs and other advertiser information. Simply mail the attached
Reader Response Card, FAX toll-free to 888.847.6035, or visit islands.com/freeinfo
for direct access to each Advertisers website and free information.
Free Travel
Information!
CARIBBEAN & BAHAMAS
1. Amsterdam Manor Beach
Resort Aruba PAGE 64
2. Aruba Tourism Authority
Aruba - One Happy Island.
White sand beaches, cooling
trade winds, warm friendly
people. One Happy Program.
PAGE 64-65
3. Bahamas Out Islands
Promotion Board
Bahamas PAGE 63
4. Bimini Big Game Club
Bahamas PAGE 63
5. Blue Residences
Aruba PAGE 64
6. Breathless Punta Cana Resort
& Spa - Spirited, Captivating.
Vibrant. Bedazzling. Sublime.
Unlimited-Luxury

. Live big.
Breathe deep. PAGE 7
7. Cayman Islands
Department of Tourism
Experience Caymankind,
everything and everyone that
makes a Cayman Islands
vacation so unique. PAGE 76
8. Fernandez Bay Village
Bahamas PAGE 63
9. Grand Isle Resort & Spa
Bahamas PAGE 63
10. Halverson House
Bahamas PAGE 63
11. Highbourne Cay Cottages
Bahamas PAGE 63
12. Hyatt Regency Aruba Resort &
Casino Aruba PAGE 64
13. Jewel Resorts Jamaica All
inclusive (Adults Only or All
Ages), Jewel Resorts, located
oceanfront in beautiful Jamaica.
Offer vacations unlike any other.
PAGE 19
14. Ocean Club Resorts
Turks & Caicos PAGE 69
15. Pigeon Cay Beach Club
Bahamas PAGE 63
16. Ports of Call
Turks & Caicos PAGE 69
17. Royal West Indies
Turks & Caicos PAGE 69
18. Rendezvous Time is so
precious, smart couples
steal it. PAGE 25
19. St. Kitts Ministry Tourism
Follow your heart to St. Kitts
and discover an island of rich
history, lush natural beauty and
vibrant cultural traditions.
PAGE 62
20. Schooner Bay Great Abaco
Island Bahamas - an out-island
harbour village surrounded by
the sea. Find Yourself at
Schooner Bay. PAGE 16
21. Small Hope Bay Lodge
Bahamas PAGE 63
22. Staniel Cay Yacht Club
Bahamas PAGE 63
23. Stella Maris Resort
Bahamas PAGE 63
24. Tiamo Resort
Bahamas PAGE 63
25. Treasure Cay Hotel & Marina
Bahamas PAGE 63
26. Valentines Resort & Marina
Bahamas PAGE 63
CENTRAL AMERICA
27. Barefoot Cay Resort Roatan,
Honduras - PAGE 66
28. Utopia Village Dive & Spa
Resort Utila Bay Islands of
Honduras- PAGE 66
CRUISE/YACHT VACATIONS
29. The Moorings Crewed Yacht
Vacations Experience all-
inclusive luxury and adventure
aboard your own private yacht
with captain and chef at your
service! PAGE 56
30. Paul Gauguin Cruises
Comfort and luxury, with
spacious suites and
staterooms, water sports
and an atmosphere of warmth
and informality. PAGE 8
31. Princess Cruises Escape
completely. PAGE 75
HAWAII
32. Aston Hotels & Resorts 26
hotels and resorts on 4 Hawai-
ian islands to fit any lifestyle,
taste or budget. PAGE 5
33. Hawaii, The Big Island From
natural wonders to uncommon
luxuries, discover more of what
you come to Hawaii for. PAGE 6
34. Kauai Visitors Bureau
From endless beaches to
green valleys, discover Kauai.
Request a free travel planner
today. PAGE 17
MEXICO
35. Fiesta Americana Grand Coral
Beach - Experience the best of
both worlds with award-winning
luxury that transports the soul
to pure relaxation. PAGE 59
36. Oasis Hotels & Resorts Ten
quintessential Mexican all-in-
clusive resorts offering a unique
variety of vacation experiences.
PAGE 9
37. Palace Resorts Offering
all-inclusive resorts in Mexico.
PAGE 15
MISCELLANEOUS
38. Thrifty Car Rental Get out
and have some fun! PAGE 68
MULTIPLE ISLANDS
39. Hard Rock All Inclusive
Collection Book your stay in
the front row of paradise and
experience the all inclusive
vacation that includes it all.
PAGE 21
40. Palladium Hotels &
Resorts Five-Star all-
inclusive accommodations
on some of the worlds finest
beaches. Perfect for a
honeymoon or family vacation.
PAGE 71
41. Sandals Resorts - Jamaica,
Antigua, St. Lucia & the Baha-
mas - Voted the worlds best
all-inclusive resorts for over a
decade. C2-3
SOUTH PACIFIC
42. Fiji Tourism - 333 exotic
islands to satisfy your quest for
privacy, relaxation, adventure
and cultural interaction.
PAGE 23
VACATION RENTALS
43. Antigua Village Beach Resort
Antigua PAGE 72
44. Catered To...Vacation Homes
St. John, USVI PAGE 72
45. Cayo Espanto Belize
PAGE 72
46. Coral Beach Club St. Martin/
St. Maarten - PAGE 72
Anguilla: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+264-497-2656
Antigua: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+268-462-9532
Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4816-8001
Aruba: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+297-583-4832
Bahamas: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+242-377-8300
Barbados: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+246-416-4456
Belize: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+501-207-1271
Brazil: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+55-92-3584-1293
Chile: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+56-2-2232-5892
Costa Rica: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+506-2257-3434
Curacao: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+599-9461-3089
Dominican Republic: . . . . . .+809-333-4000
Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+5932-2-228-688
El Salvador: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+503-2263-7799
French Guiana . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Grand Cayman: . . . . . . . . . .1-866-478-3421
Guadeloupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Guatemala: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+502-2277-9070
Honduras: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+504-234-3183
Jamaica: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+876-952-1126
Martinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Mexico: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+52-33-3122-5551
Nicaragua: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+505-2255-7981
Panama: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+507-204-9555
Paraguay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(595)-21-5197310
Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(1) 447-7118
Puerto Rico: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+787-253-2525
St. Barts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590 52 34 06
St. Kitts: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+869-465-2991
St. Lucia: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+758-451-6150
St. Maarten: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+599-545-2393
St. Thomas: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+340-776-1500
Tobago: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-639-8507
Trinidad: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-669-0602
Turks & Caicos: . . . . . . . . . . .+649-946-4475
Uruguay: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+598-2481-8170
Worldwide Reservations: . . .1-800-367-2277
To book online,
please visit:
2014 A licensee of DTG Operations, Inc. or its affiliates. Thrifty features a wide selection of quality vehicles.
Tobago
AFFORDABLE
rinidadians will tell you fuh true
you dont have to spend a bundle to
vacation here. hey ock to obago for
holidays, and to chill out after Carnival.
(Dont expect to get a room then at any
price unless you book long ahead.)
BIRDING obago has enough rare
easily spotted birds (210 nesting spe-
cies compared with 80 on most other
islands) to excite even a non-bird-
watcher like me. I spotted motmots
with long jewel-colored tail feathers on
phone lines and was awakened by the
raucous calls of chachalacas, also called
cocricos because that sounds exactly
like what theyre shouting.
SUNDAY SCHOOL If a obagonian insists
you go to Sunday school in Buccoo, think
street party, not church. hings get going
about 8 or 9 p.m. with steel-pan music,
which turns into soca, dance hall and hip-
hop later. A few bucks in my pocket for
the barbecue and drink stalls were plenty.
STORE BAY KIOSKS A chalkboard is
often a sign of killer food and in Store
Bay, its one after the other listing the days
specials ($5-$10). hey usually include the
national dish: curry crab and dumplings. I
on $110 a day
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EAT FOR $5-$35
Recently renovated and just steps from
famed Grace Bay Beach where chaise
lounges, umbrellas and beach attendants
await. Spacious accommodations with a
modern and trendy dcor. Tropical Pool
Bar. Fitness Room. Business Center. Free
Continental Breakfast & WiFi. Adjacent to the
Shops at Ports of Call with a great variety of
Restaurants, Boutiques, Spa and Dive Center.
PORTS OF CALL RESORT
(888) 678-3483
www.portsofcallresort.com
Beautiful by Nature
Do nothing for less on the Caribbeans Best Beach. Our guests say of all the things to do here
tennis, water sports and nearby golf their favorite is doing nothing at all. Maybe because we
sit right on the Caribbeans best beach, according to Trip Advisor.
April 22 - November 15: Save up to 20% off low-season rates.
OCEAN CLUB
(800) 457-8787
www.oceanclubresorts.com
Surprisingly affordable luxury on Grace
Bay. Recipient of a Travelers Choice Award
for 2006. Royal West Indies is an all-suite,
luxury, beachside condominium resort
featuring Studios and 1 and 2 bedroom
Suites. Perfect for honeymooners, sun lovers
and families alike. Enjoy non-motorized
water sports and fabulous meals at the
resorts international restaurant, Pelican Bay
Restaurant and Bar.
ROYAL WEST INDIES RESORT
(800) 332-4203
www.royalwestindies.com
favor Miss Esmie, my husband likes Miss
Alma, but whichever cook you try, eat in
your swimsuit: he dish rightly lays claim
to being the worlds messiest.
KARIWAK VILLAGE At Kariwak Village,
owner Cynthia Clovis recently published
a cookbook. Her
grilled mahimahi
and peppery gin-
ger beer are rst-
rate; her coconut
cream pie with
homemade coco-
nut ice cream had
me swooning. A
three-course din-
ner set us back
about $35, but we went cheap and cheerful
the next night: with pizza at Store Bays La
Cantina, a lively spot owned by an Italian
obagonian ($25 for two). kariwak.com
KARIWAK VILLAGE HOLISTIC HAVEN
Admittedly, this stretches the afford-
able label a bit, but its Amerindian-style
thatched-roof ajoupas, hidden among gar-
dens and rainbow-hued birds, are hard
to pass up. Helping to even the balance
sheet are free yoga and tai chi, a gratis
shuttle to iconic Pigeon Point beach
(Store Bay beach is a six-minute walk)
and breakfast included in the room rate.
ry the cocoa tea instead of coffee, and
the fried ying sh instead of eggs. Low-
season rate is $175 a night. kariwak.com
JOHNSTON APARTMENTS Its all about
location here. With Store Bay at their
doorstep, the 27 cabana-style one-bed-
rooms have a private stairway to the beach,
plus they share the grounds (and pool) of
Crown Point Beach Hotel. A balcony and
kitchenette make eating in enjoyable, not
just money-saving. Low-season rate is
$105 a night. johnstonapartments.com av
Tobago law requires children
attend school for just six years.
STAY FOR $105-$175 A NIGHT
DID YOU KNOW?
You want soft sand, inviting water, warm sun and no stress. Thats a Mexican vacation.
Choose a Mexican getaway, and youll reap the benets of a tropical escape without the hassle. Mexico
is exotic with culture and customs, and its resorts tend to pamper guests in ways that exceed expectations.
desk to your guest room, where you choose the
scent. Visits begin with crisp white coconut mar-
tinis and cool scented towels, and continue with
a signature pillow menu. Your butler will unpack
and iron your clothes, and prepare a whirlpool
tub each night.
Dine in eight gourmet restaurants, includ-
ing the French-fusion Lumier. New executive
chef Marco Czares presents a-la-carte and
wine-tasting menu indulgences like green rice
Portuguese steak with cherry tomatoes and
fresh coriander foam, and lobster ravioli with
basil, cheese and tangerine, in a chic, ele-
gant space. The new weekly Chefs Dinner at
BlancInternational Restaurant is a visceral treat
with a cooking demonstration and wine pair-
ings. Maya-inspired spa treatments include the
80-minute Kukulkan, where four hands simu-
late four sacred animals.
Most every bit is included. Pay for extras like
beach cabanas (a bottle of Moet included) with
your resort credit, awarded on a sliding scale up
to your $1,500 for ve nights. 877-753-2526,
leblancsparesort.com
FAMILY MATTERS
Guests of Palladium Hotels & Resorts return again
and again, and its because the seven Mexico
properties offer incredible diversity plus all-
inclusive beverages, meals, entertainment and
nonmotorized water sports.
The Grand Palladium Colonial Resort & Spa,
for instance, is a luxurious ve-star property with
14 restaurants, 25 bars, nine swimming pools,
a disco and a kids club, plus activities, ameni-
ties and entertainment to suit. Kids are the focus
at all ve Riviera Maya resorts, with tiered chil-
drens clubs at each one. The new childrens pool
shared by the Colonial and Kantenah resorts wow
little ones with playful tropical elements like dol-
phin and turtle slides, and a faux palm tree with
a toucan. Play at Palladium with Raggs features
Raggs character appearances by the pool, at a
special breakfast and in a show.
Alone or with the family, try volleyball, archery,
Yet you can reach this escape from your home-
town, as airlines y nonstop to the tourist areas
regularly from cities all over the United States.
At your resort and major tourist attractions, most
everyone you encounter will speak English. You
can use your regular credit card and cash, join
English-speaking tours and nd American-style
meals, if thats your preference. If you want tacos
with handmade tortillas, or gourmet twists on tra-
ditional recipes, youll be just as pleased with your
discoveries.
Mexico blends the intrigue of a foreign culture
with the niceties of home. Here are ve places to
play in the Mexican sun.
OOH LA LA. LE FOOD!
Cancun may be easy to reach, and Le Blanc Spa
Resort makes it easy to stay.
The adults-only, all-inclusive resort is a luxuri-
ous AAA Five Diamond property. Aromatherapy
abounds throughout the hotel, from the check-in
SIMPLY
MEXICO
Our south-of-the-border neighbor is close, afordable
and easy to reach and lined with beautiful beaches.
Experience
PALLADIUM
SPAIN | MEXICO | DOMINICAN REPUBLIC | JAMAICA | BRAZIL
Palladium Resorts are exclusively all-inclusive.
That means one great price includes everything
youll need for the vacation of a lifetime.
Luxurious accommodations, lavish meals, five-star
service and unforgettable activities, set on the
worlds most beautiful tropical beaches. Expect
more. Expand your world. Experience Palladium.
For more information, visit PalladiumResorts.com,
contact our call center at 800.961.7661 or your
preferred tour operator.
@PalladiumHotels /PalladiumHotelsandResorts
All wows. All whims.
al included.
snorkeling or kayaking, or karaoke, PlayStation
or a pontoon boat ride, depending which resort
you choose. Then escape from the world with a
spa treatment or a stop in the vapor bath, sauna
or eco-meditative cold bath. 800-961-7661,
palladiumhotelgroup.com
ROCKIN IT IN MEXICO
You can count on endless style when you book a
stay at any of Hard Rocks all-inclusive Mexican
escapes. Edgy rock-star theming pervades all
three properties, from a guitar-shaped driveway
in Cancun to the rock-themed art in Vallarta
guest rooms.
Better yet, youll have incredible amenities,
dining and service. Sky terraces, an adults-only
resort-within-a-resort, a Rock Spa, nine restau-
rants, a HIT Entertainment-themed kids club and
a teen lounge wow at the Hard Rock Riviera Maya.
A hot Welcome to the Jungle theme at Hard
Rock Hotel Cancun includes a neon-lit glass
staircase with sheer metallic curtains and rock
memorabilia, plus outdoor palapa-style massage
rooms and an outdoor amphitheater.
For a more intimate experience, choose the
348-room Hard Rock Hotel Vallarta, with four
restaurants, a kids club, mini-golf, volleyball,
tennis and an amphitheater. 888-762-5002,
hrhallinclusive.com
CHOOSE YOUR OASIS
Finding the perfect vacation has never been
easier. Oasis Hotels & Resorts offers nine
awesome options for the ultimate escape to
Mexico, and one or two will be ideal for you.
Love entertainment? Want family time? Craving
serenity, sensuality or an LGBT-friendly option?
Oasis has everything you need and more.
More fabulous food, whether you indulge in
high-end molecular gastronomy, choose a blind-
tasting experience, opt for exotic Moroccan fare
or prefer hearty meals at the gastropub. More spa
options, from a romantic couples massage to a
chocolate wrap to a traditional Maya lodge expe-
rience. More cool pools, more pristine beaches,
more exciting excursions whether youre into
porpoises, paddleboards or pirate ships.
Expect the unexpected: dancers in the lobby
and comedians by the pool at Grand Oasis
Cancun, plus festivals, concerts and shows.
Kinky fun at the risqu Grand Oasis Viva. A nur-
turing calm atmosphere at Oasis Tulum. And
sunny days and sultry nights everywhere you
turn. 800-44-OASIS, oasishotels.com
A BEACHFRONT GEM
Diamonds are everywhere at Fiesta Americana
Grand Coral Beach Cancun Resort & Spa AAA
Diamonds, that is. The oceanfront all-suite prop-
erty earned the coveted AAA Five-Diamond rating
16 years straight, and following a massive two-year
renovation expects to reach that status again. Its
French-Mediterranean restaurant Le Basilic con-
tinues to carry the Five-Diamond accolade.
Youll feel pampered here, where every ele-
ment from the decor to the service is designed to
be exceptional. Every suite has a beach view. The
Gem Spa boasts not only 26 treatment rooms,
but also a signature 10-step hydrotherapy ritual.
A visit here isnt all serious, of course. This
is a beach resort. Mariachi singers serenade in
the lobby at sunset. Children build sand castles
and hunt for sea shells with the Fiesta Kids Club.
And water sports are on offer. 888-830-9008,
coralbeachcancunhotel.com
S P E CI A L P R OMOT I ONA L F E AT UR E
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LuxuryVILLAS
CAYO ESPANTO A PRIVATE ISLAND
Our ve-star, world-class Belize resort is for the discriminating
few who demand the best life has to offer. 888-666-4282

aprivateisland.com
BELIZE
CATERED TO VACATION HOMES
Our private homes are beautifully furnished and
landscaped, all with spectacular deck views and
most with pools or spas. cateredto.com
ST. JOHN, USVI
ANTIGUA VILLAGE Personally styled, luxury
beachfront villas and condos set in lush tropical
gardens on one of the most beautiful and famous
beaches on Antigua. antiguavillage.net
ANTIGUA
CORAL BEACH CLUB
The art of luxury beachfront living with the amenities of a boutique resort!
Contact us about Specials! 866-978-7278

coralbeach-club.com
ST. MARTIN/
ST. MAARTEN
73
IslandsCLASSIFIEDS
JEWELRY
FOR SALE
Yachtsmans Haven
Yachtsmans Haven on Green Turtle Cay, Abaco,
Commonwealth of the Bahamas. Four acre estate
in protected corner of White Sound, adjacent to the
Green Turtle Club, between White Sound and Bluff
Harbor. Total waterfront frontage is approximately
600: Modern 5200 ft, 2 house; a 2 Bedroom house;
a 1 Bedroom Apt.; tennis court; ample dockage for
several large boats (8ft. draft). Free and clear title,
wi th ori gi nal 1927 Crown Grant Deed. Contact
gwpage@erols.com.
TOUR OPERATORS
caravan

Affordable Guided Vacations Since 1952


Costa Rica
9 Days $1095
Volcanoes, Rainforests and
Beaches. All meals included.
Join the smart shoppers and
experienced travelers who rely
on Caravan to handle all the
details. Call for choice dates.
Free Vacation Catalog:
1-800-Caravan, visit Caravan.com
Panama Tour, Canal Cruise 8 days $1195
Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Is. 10 days $1395
California Coast, Yosemite 8 days $1295
New England and Fall Foliage 8 days $1295 +

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YACHT CHARTERS & CRUISES
800-524-8292 www.bajoryachts.com
Absolutely! The best vacation ever!
Personally designed yacht vacations since 1988.
Bajor Yacht Charters, Virgin Islands.
Absolutely! The best vacation ever!
CLOTHING
c
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The Worlds Largest Selection Of Board Shorts & Board Skirts.
Hand
Crafted
in USA
TRAVEL SUPPLIES
ISLAND ACCOMMODATIONS
Anguilla
Look no morewww.BaliHaiVilla.com
Bahamas
800.454.2299 or 239.732.5112
www.kokomo1.com
ELEUTHERA
BAHAMAS KOKOMO
3 bedroom air-conditioned home on a
secluded pink sand beach. Great snorkeling,
4 kayaks, pool table, huge decks,
hammocks $1,795-$2,395/Wk.
Cayman Islands
PARADISE VILLAS, LITTLE CAYMAN - Only 100%
oceanfront Resort on Little Cayman. 12 oceanfront vil-
las, dive operation, seaside dining at the Hungry Iguana.
1-877-3CAYMAN, www.paradisevillas.com
Grenada & Carriacou
CARRIACOU - SIMPLEST OF THE GRENADINES.
Peacef ul vacat i on vi l l as. Down I sl and Lt d.
www.islandvillas.com E-mail: islander@islandvillas.com
Phone: (473) 443-8182
Puerto Rico
Islands.com
Turks & Caicos
Island Based Central Reservations - for 50 hotels/
resorts and 100 villas throughout the destination!
www.turksandcaicosreservations.com - call islands toll
free 1-877-774-5486
St. Croix
ST. CROIX, SHOYS BEACH - Lovely 3 bedroom
villa. Large pool and deck. Gorgeous view. Steps from
Swimming, Snorkeling, and Golf. From $1,600/week.
508-785-9895 http://www.shoysparadisefound.com
Tahiti
Extraordinary vacations.
Extraordinary value.
Starting at $2599
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HAWAII ACCOMMODATIONS
Maui
Watch the humpback whales
from your private lanai.
:SLLW[V[OLZV\UKZVM[OLZ\YMM[LLUZ[LWZH^H`
Come Listen! $129 per night.
Owners: 1-800-742-7955 www.mauikondo.com
breathtaking
Maui Beachfront Condominium...
NATURISM
74
That One Island
The name of this island? Not sure. That might actually be the name: Not Sure Island. Its
one of 1,700 islands in the Florida Keys, among them Ramrod and No Name. Looks like
someone beat photographer Jon Whittle to it on his day trip to the Dry Tortugas (page 37).
Islands, Vol. 34, No. 3, April/May 2014 (ISSN 0745-7847), is published 8 times a year (Jan./Feb., March, April/May, June, July/Aug., Sep./Oct., Nov., Dec.) by Bonnier Corporation, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, FL 32790; 407-628-4802. One year (8 issues) $24 in the U.S. For
Canada, add $9 for postage per year. All other countries add $18. Copyright 2014 by Bonnier Corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the written consent of Bonnier Corporation. Periodicals postage paid at Winter Park, FL,
and at additional offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ISLANDS, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Printed in USA. PUBLICATION MAIL AGREEMENT NUMBER 40612608 CANADA RETURN MAIL: IMEX, P.O. Box 25542, London, Ontario N6C 6B2
WHATS HAPPENING AT ISLANDS.COM Nonstop Caribbean Flights How to Raise a Family on an Island Most Exotic Villas Best Islands for Romance
J
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W
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GOING OUT OF THE WAY
TO GIVE YOU OUT OF THE WAY.
THATS CAYMANKIND.
A WORLD AWAY. JUST ONE HOUR FROM MIAMI.
WWW.CAYMANISLANDS.KY

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