Transistor Tester

This simple circuit has helped me out on many occasions. It is able to check
transistors, in the circuit, down to 40 ohms across the collector-base or base-emitter
junctions. It can also check the output power transistors on amplifier circuits.

Circuit operation is as follows. The 555 timer ( IC1 ) is set up as a 12hz multi
vibrator. The output on pin 3 drives the 4027 flip-flop ( IC2). This flip-flop divides
the input frequency by two and delivers complementary voltage outputs to pin 15
and 14. The outputs are connected to LED1 and LED2 through the current limiting
resistor R3. The LED's are arranged so that when the polarity across the circuit is
one way only one LED will light and when the polarity reverses the other LED will
light, therefore when no transistor is connected to the tester the LED's will
alternately flash. The IC2 outputs are also connected to resistors R4 and R5 with
the junction of these two resistors connected to the base of the transistor being
tested. With a good transistor connected to the tester, the transistor will turn on and
produce a short across the LED pair. If a good NPN transistor is connected then
LED1 will flash by itself and if a good PNP transistor is connected then LED2 will
flash by itself. If the transistor is open both LED's will flash and if the transistor is
shorted then neither LED will flash.
 555 Timer IC Tester

The 555-tester above is basically a led flasher circuit but with the 555 removed.
Imagen the output being a square-wave pulse with a high and low pulse, and is
so indicated by the two leds, one 'Hi' and the other one 'Lo'. When you have a
good 555 under test, the hi and lo leds are flashing steadily. If you have a
defective 555 you may get both leds off, one or both on steady, or one or both on
faintly. In all these case the 555 is defective. Oh yeah, just in case you are just
starting out in electronics; do NOT insert a 555 (or take it out) with the power
on. The flash-rate can be changed with different values for C1 and R2. Try it, its
fun. At pin 5 there is small ceramic 1nF capacitor. It is just there to filter out any
noise. Experiment with leaving C2 out. C2 can be a value of 1nF to 10nF (0.001
to 0.01µF). In regards to R3, R4; depending on your Led type; start with 220
ohm and go up or down from 100 to 330 ohms, again, depending on you Led
(e.i. regular, high, or ultra bright). The prototype was constructed with as few
parts in mind as posible. In that regards you could save money by replacing the
two leds with a bi-color (3 legs) one if you have a unit in your junkbox
somewhere; it will then flash green/red. The second unit I build was so small it
was about 1 inch square and fitted nicely in my pocket.