This class will go over how to take the correct measurements for the tunic to customize the fit. I have been asked a couple of time how I can make the tunics fit so nice. I make each tunic to fit each person with the measurements. We will go over measuring and added enough so that our men dont try to rip out their clothes and the cut out.
Measurements MEN Back Shoulder - ______ Chest - ___________ Waist - _________ Neck to Knuckle - ___________ Neck to waist - __________ Neck to Kneecap - ___________ Upper Arm - ___________ Around Knuckles - _______ Hips - __________ Crotch to Belly button- _________ Waist to Floor - _________ Pelvic to Pelvic bone - _________ Around Head_____________ Crotch to middle back_________ Inseam__________________
First off when taking the back shoulder measurement, make sure who ever you are taking it for pretends to be the Hulk. The reasoning behind this is most of our guys fight and this will give them the room to be able to move. Next is the chest measurement, take this while they have taken a deep breath to allow for expansion of the chest. This also goes for the waist, You really dont want the pants or tunic to be too small here. The upper arm muscle you want fully flexed. When taking the measurements around the knuckles make sure that they make a fist and measure the largest part. This allows for you to make the tapered sleeves but they can get their hand through it. Helpful Hints: When picking out your material make sure that it will breathe. I use 100% linen medium weight or tropical weight 100% wool twill weave. Take into account if this will be an over tunic or under tunic, as this will determine the length & overall size of your finished tunic. I generally figure out how long I want the tunic to be then fold the material in half to be 2 inches longer. To figure out the neckline make a pattern out of freezer paper. This way you can try it on and get the right fit. Once you have found the right one. Iron it to the material and cut around the outside. Make sure to mark where the center of your body would be so you know where to match it up on the body. You should have body, 2 sleeves, 2 gussets, and 4 gores. If you wish to have more flair you can add 2 gores in front.
This is the Birka style tunic. There are many others but this is the easiest to start with.
This is the layout for the Skjoldehamnfunnet Pattern.
Make sure that you mark the center of the sleeves and on the body mark where the sleeves meet. 1.) First take the gussets and sew them to the sleeves. 2.) Match up the sleeves to the body and pin & sew including the gusset. 3.) Next sew the gores to the body. 4.) Lay flat and match up the neck hole facing with the center. Off set to the front slightly so that you are not choked by your tunic or under dress. 5.) Pin the neckline to the body and sew around the pattern. Hint: you can mark the sewing line with edge of soap and then pull pattern off for later use. 6.) Carefully cut out the neckline around the neck sewing line. Then carefully clip the edge to the sewing line to make it easier to turn. You can also carefully turn the edge. And stitch down. 7.) Sew the gusset the rest of the way into the tunic then sew down the sides and the sleeve. 8.) Turn the collar in and stitch down.
Bibliography Lvlid, Dan Halvard: Nye tanker om Skjoldehamnfunnet 2009, Department of Archeology, History, Cultural Studies and Religion at the University of Bergen http://www.lofotr.no/pdf/Skjoldhamnfunnet/Nye%20tanker%20om%20Skjoldehamnfunnet.pdf
Lvlid, Dan Halvard: Skjoldehamnfunnet i lys av ny kunnskap. En diskusjon om gravleggingen, funnets etniske tilknytning og personens kjnn og sosiale status. 2010 http://www.lofotr.no/pdf/Skjoldhamnfunnet/Skjoldehamnfunnet%20i%20lys%20av%20ny%20kunnskap.p df
Carlson, Marc: Some Clothing of the Middle Ages, the Skjoldehamn tunic, http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~Marc-Carlson/cloth/skjolha.html