To all Yaesu VR500 Owners

There will surely come a time when the rotary clicking channel selector switch will
get so worn, that the radio channel change will either refuse to go forwards, miss
channels or jump backwards to previous channels. It gets progressively worse and the
only solution is to replace the switch. These are available from Yaesu as a spare part,
a bit pricey for what it is and I would hate to think how much one would be charged to
have it fitted.
Now I am fast approaching 60 and my abilities now for working on such a small
receiver do leave a lot to be desired. The fingers are not so nimble, much to large and
shaky, the eyesight is also next to useless at short distances.
But I decided to have ago and hopefully give you some confidence in doing the same
job yourself. But! Dont you blame me if you find you do not have a working radio
anymore. It is a very risky operation and you have to take the utmost care when the
switch is actually replaced.

Step 1, probably the easiest, is to remove the back cover:
Take off the battery cover, remove the batteries and locate and remove the two screws
as shown, either side in the upper part of the battery enclosure. These are self tappers!
This is most important to remember on re-assembly.















The rear cover should now lift off, with a little persuasion, to reveal the internals as
shown.
.
Is your heart still beating?


Next remove
the two screws
from the upper
part of the
back cover.
These are
machine
screws and not
the self tapping
type fitted
lower down.
Next you have to remove the knobs, first pull off the small channel/freq change knob.





Next is the removal of the small seal that is under the now removed volume knob.






Then the
lower one
that does the
squelch.
Next the
Volume knob
pulls off
followed by
the rubber seal
around the
BNC/Antenna
connector.
Now the first of the tricky operations starts. This is the
removal of three circular fixing nuts that are located under
the three items just visited. I did not have the special
spanner required for these but the photo on the left gives a
clue as to how I removed the fixings. A pair of thin long
nosed pliers were used to engage in the slots of the rings
and to enable the rings to be unscrewed, normal
anticlockwise rotation to remove. The YELLOW arrow is
one of the unscrewing slots, the RED arrows show the
cutaways that allow the ring to slip over the BNC socket.



Next remove the two small screws holding the keypad board at the bottom of the case.







The last photo is where you should be now, put the case and rubber seal/switch covers safely to one side.
With these fittings removed, it should now be possible
to remove the remaining half of the plastic case
including the loudspeaker. As this was my first
attempt I accidentally removed some board fixing
screws that did not need removal until the next step.
However, it did not make any real difference and I
will show these being removed prior to case removal
just for keeping continuity in the photographs.
If you have already removed the case then removing
these next three screws is your next step.









1
st
Screw 2
nd
Screw

Remove the funny flat head screw located
close to the offending channel switch.
Now you will need the soldering iron to
unsolder at three locations. These are at two
chassis earth points and the antenna input
from the BNC socket center terminal.
The latter is unsoldered at the board and
NOT at the BNC socket.
This upper board can now be lifted up and
away to reveal a second board beneath. Now
we have to remove another three screws for
this board, which once done, will allow the
board to be removed by sliding to the right
(as viewed on the photos) and slightly
upwards. It is easier to do than to describe!
































3
rd
Screw Pull board up to disengage the white rectangular
connector then slide right and upwards to clear. frame.




Escutcheon removed. 1
st
metal frame fixing screw.


2
nd
metal frame fixing screw. Frame removed.
Left is another view of THE NASTY!
Still a bit to do yet before we can extract it
and the going gets really tough from now on.
We have to remove the metal frame after
first removing the LCD metal escutcheon.
When this is removed, the LCD is hanging
perilously by three small wires on one side.
The LCD must therefore be treated with
utmost care to ensure minimum displacement
until we get it all back together again. The
escutcheon is removed by carefully bending
back its securing tabs.



How did I get the little XXX out? Well I laid the whole soldering iron bit across all
six solder pads of the switch and melted them all at once. At the same time I was
applying pressure to make the switch let go of the board but also making sure the iron
did not destroy the LCD!
I wish I had had an assistant to help me but somehow I managed to do it.
I also figured I could clean the board up afterwards and when the switch had been
removed, I found it easier to solder suck from the other side of the board, that is the
switch body side.
I cannot stress too much the need for minimum movement of the LCD. Just raise it
gently to give sufficient access for the soldering iron bit and NO MORE!

It may be helpful to slightly trim the tags of the new switch before fitting. The reason
for this is that the new switch has slightly longer tags than the old one removed. If you
do not trim the tags, they will stop the LCD setting down in its correct position. If you
leave them long you will find it difficult to trim the tags without lifting the LCD
display and this should be avoided as much as possible.

Re-assembly is of course the reverse of above instructions and dont forget to resolder
the BNC and earthing points.
The rubber seals are a bit tricky to get back but not too difficult.