To Mom and Dad

For always encouraging me to pursue my dreams

And for putting up with me while I designed this game
And, of course, to Aaron
1
Tyler Bembenek
Lead Designer & Researcher
Eric Dale
Graphic Designer
David Lawrence
Illustrator
Nicola Berto
Contributor
Arran Slee-Smith
Contributor
2
Special Thanks to:
Philip Daileader
Chris Rett
Eric Riha
Mark DErrico
Alexander Kawczynski
And especially Rob Burke
All historical photographs courtesy of Higgins Armory, Worcester, Massachusetts
Intellectual Property of Tyler Bembenek
3
4
Introduction.................................................................................................6
How to Read This Book............................................................................8
Overview of the Game..............................................................................9
Vocabulary.................................................................................................11
Game Rules................................................................................................13
Components...............................................................................................14
The Board....................................................................................................16
Attrition......................................................................................................17
Terrain Features..........................................................................................19
Unit Organization......................................................................................21
Unit Characteristics...................................................................................22
Unit Types...................................................................................................24
Saves............................................................................................................27
Equipment..................................................................................................28
Unit Special Rules......................................................................................30
Morale.........................................................................................................32
Command...................................................................................................34
Preparing the Game..................................................................................35
Table of Contents
5
Playing a Game..........................................................................................37
Rally Phase.................................................................................................40
Movement Phase........................................................................................42
Shooting Phase...........................................................................................45
Ranged Weapons.......................................................................................48
Assault Phase.............................................................................................49
Combat Phase.............................................................................................51
Combat Weapons.......................................................................................55
Winning the Game....................................................................................57
Optional Rules...........................................................................................58
Britannia 1066............................................................................................63
Introduction...............................................................................................64
Hobby Guide.............................................................................................67
Introduction...............................................................................................68
Preparing Models to Paint........................................................................70
Painting.......................................................................................................72
Basing..........................................................................................................74
What I Wish I Had Known......................................................................77
Bibliography.............................................................................................80
Hello, my name is Tyler Bembenek and I am the lead designer and researcher for An Age of Sword
and Arrow (henceforth referred to as ASA). I am an International Relations and German Studies double
major at The College of William & Mary. My interest in international relations actually started as a fasci-
nation with history. As a child, I used to spend day after day reading books about ancient and medieval
empires and kingdoms. There was something about these stories that was incredibly enthralling and I
couldnt help but become attached to the characters that I was reading about. I imagined myself living
the lives of these historical fgures, pretending to be an Aztec emperor, a Viking raider, or any of a vari-
ety of ancient professions (with the notable exception of gong farmer!)
As I grew older, my sources of information evolved into more comprehensive works and I be-
came increasingly captivated by the narratives they contained. There was some element which gave
these stories profound meaning. Then, one day, I realized what I had been subconsciously thinking my
entire life: that these narratives are a refection of the temporal reality we all experience, that they are
the tales of ordinary men and women whose experiences upon this earth were fundamentally the same
as our own.
In the academic world, it is easy to become detached from the subject of ones study. All too
often, history is portrayed as something distant, alien to our own experience and of no relevance to
modern life. Without bringing the human nature of these narratives to life, history remains just a collec-
tion of dates and names. This is not helped by the rather dry manner in which many history textbooks
are written which serves to further this illusion of a cold and distant subject. To many students it may
even appear that historys course was inevitable and predetermined. Yet, those individuals who helped
shape history were no different than you or me but were subject to the same fears, desires, doubts, and
ambition. They entered the world as men and women and sought to guide their kin and countrymen as
well as possible. They were subject to the same realities of the human condition that underlie interna-
tional relations in the modern world: a desire for security and prosperity constantly threatened by the
shadow of violence in an anarchic international system.
The Mediterranean ca. 350 B.C.E.
6
Introduction
Comprehending this human side of history is the essential element to being able to truly under-
stand and engage with it. Suddenly, these collections of stories are more than just an accumulation of
facts but the accounts of real struggles that not only determined the course of human history, but were
the very substance of peoples lives. We can see the choices that real people were confronted with, the
decisions that they made, and the consequences that they faced. Furthermore, we can infer something
about their emotions, the stress of their challenges, and the joy of their victories. Thus, these accounts
refect elements of our own lives. Although we may never rule a kingdom or lead an army into battle,
our lives are nonetheless fundamentally intertwined with those who went before us. I sincerely believe
that there is value in making this connection, whether practical (e.g. trying to avoid the mistakes of the
past) or perhaps some deeper contribution, some element that resonates within our innermost selves.
Our Goal: Making History Fun
By developing ASA, we hope to create a tool that students can use to immerse themselves in
history. The best way to do this is to make history fun! It is my frm belief that the most effective educa-
tion is also entertaining. By playing ASA, students may think that they are just playing a game. And the
truth is that they are playing a game. However, despite modern conceptions, games are not necessarily
just a waste of time or a way to reduce stress. In fact, often in the natural world the act of playing has a
valuable educational component. Think for a moment of two lion cubs wrestling on the plains of Africa.
Despite how much silliness and fun they look to be having, those lions are actually learning how to hunt
and fght, essential skills for wild carnivores. Well, if lions can learn by having fun, so can we!
ASA is an educational game because it has been modeled to accurately represent history. By
engaging with the game students must face the tactical realities of the medieval battlefeld. Confronted
with the real challenges of ancient warfare, they will have to devise effective strategies to win their bat-
tles. To do so, they will have to learn the strengths and weaknesses of their armies, the effects of terrain,
and the appropriate tactics to counter their opponents. ASA will allow the players to make these dis-
coveries frst-hand through experience. The player who masters the game is the one who has developed
a deep understanding of ancient warfare and who can utilize that knowledge to bring success on the
tabletop.
An additional advantage of designing a game is that it truly engages participants in the history
by providing both visual and kinesthetic elements, two features that are distinctly lacking in most text-
books. Thus, by attempting to fll the roll of an ancient or medieval general, players can better under-
stand the perspective of historical leaders and can gain an appreciation for the realities and challenges
of warfare and command. It is this immersive aspect that really serves to bring the history to life and
provide a level of understanding which, without personally experiencing such a battle, would be im-
possible to achieve.
In conclusion, I hope that you take advantage of this opportunity and try out ASA. Dont be
afraid if you have never played a tabletop game before or are totally unfamiliar with ancient and medi-
eval historyyou may fnd that you like it! Happy gaming and may the dice be ever in your favor.
Sincerely,
Tyler Bembenek
7
How to Read
This Book
L
earning to play a new game can be a challenging task. Tabletop miniatures games, notorious
for being very complex, are certainly no exception. We have attempted to mitigate the chal-
lenge of learning to play An Age of Sword and Arrow by making this rulebook as easy to read
as possible. The overall organization is as follows:
1. Overview
We begin with an overview of the game, which describes the basic principles of the game.
2. Vocabulary
This section goes over some of the basic vocabulary that you will need to learn to understand this rule-
book. This list does not comprise all the standardized vocabulary that we use throughout the book.
Instead, it only focuses on the main terms that you will need in order to begin reading.
3. Components
The components section provides a list and basic description of the items you will need for gameplay.
4. Detailed Components Descriptions
The next several sections each focus on an individual component of the game and how it functions.
These sections tend to include a lot of details and even reference rules that havent yet been described.
For your frst time reading through the rulebook, you should skim over these details. Dont try to mem-
orize everything all at once! Instead, just get an overall idea of how the components work. Once you
have read further, you can refer back to these sections.
5. Preparing for Gameplay
After all the components have been described in detail, we explain how you go about setting up and
preparing for a game.
6. Playing the Game
Finally, we run through how to play the game. These rules are described according to the order of the
game to help players visualize the fow of gameplay.
7. Optional Rules
At the end of the rules section, we list a few optional rules that you may use in your games to add char-
acter complexity or to alter the command system.
Your Experience Level
We also understand that not all readers have the same level of experience with playing tabletop
games. With that in mind, weve written the main body of text so that it is easy for complete novices to
understand. This type of text provides thorough descriptions of basic wargaming concepts. Of course,
veteran gamers already know most of this material and should feel free to skim through it quickly.
8
Overview of
the Game
A
n Age of Sword and Arrow is a tabletop wargame designed for two or more players. A wargame
is any type of game that attempts to recreate some of the tactical realities of warfare. A good
example is chess, one of the worlds oldest wargames.
Every wargame has its own objectives and design philosophy. Some wargames try to
be very accurate simulations of the fundamental mechanics of warfare. Their rules are very
precisely designed so that any battle between two forces will yield realistic results.
Other games ignore some realism to focus purely on a particular aspect of warfare. Returning
to our example of chess, its clear that the game is not a totally accurate representation of battles: castles
werent actually able to move! However, chess does a fantastic job portraying a battle of the generals
in which each player attempts to out strategize their opponent. It also does an excellent job represent-
ing the importance of positioning your troops (aka pieces) on the battlefeld. If you dont position your
soldiers correctly, youll surely lose!
Still other games focus purely on the aesthetics of warfare. Their goal is to make the gameplay
come to life, even if its not an entirely realistic interpretation. These games usually ignore the more
tedious aspects of warfare, for example, the logistics of feeding an army. Instead, they focus on those
aspects that give a visceral feel of the battlefeld. Video games are the ideal example of this type of game.
Their emphasis on aesthetics provides an immersive experience.
An Age of Sword and Arrow, like many miniatures games, is designed in accordance with all three
of these philosophies. We have tried to create a game that generally yields realistic results, emphasizes
key aspects of strategy, and provides an immersive experience. Of course, all of these aspects have to
be balanced against each other and there are tradeoffs that need to be made. In general, An Age of Sword
and Arrow leans more towards strategy and immersion than pure realism.
Order of Play
Like popular games such as chess and checkers, players in An Age of Sword and Arrow take turns
to maneuver their pieces across a playing surface. However, unlike chess and checkers, your pieces can
do more than just move. They represent groups of soldiers who may charge, shoot, and battle each oth-
er. The actions that your units can take are determined by the phase of the game.
Each players turn has fve phases: the Rally, Movement, Shooting, Assault, and Combat Phases.
Once you have fnished all of these phases, your turn is over and it is now your opponents turn. The
player whose turn it is is referred to as the active player while his opponent is the inactive player.
Note that several of the game phases allow both players to make actions. An Age of Sword and Arrow uses
a modifed form of IGO-UGO.
When both players have completed taking turns, one round of the game is fnished. The players
continue to alternate taking turns until one player has won the battle. Alternatively, both players may
choose to end the battle after a set number of rounds, agreed upon before the battle begins.
Declared Intentions
An Age of Sword and Arrow is not designed to penalize players due to measurement errors. Thus,
when maneuvering your troops, you may declare your intention (e.g. I want to move my company of
knights into assault range of your infantry company). As long as this movement is valid and follows
all the rules of the Movement Phase, this declaration will decrease future disputes, especially if models
are accidently bumped during gameplay.
9
Premeasuring
You may measure any distance on the tabletop at any time.
Automatic Failure/Success
Despite any modifers, a natural die roll of 1 is always successful while a roll of 10 is always a
failure.
Rerolls
In some exceptional situations you will be allowed to re-roll a die result. To do so, you may
choose to re-roll the relevant number of dice and count the successes and failures. Once you have re-
rolled the dice you must abide by the new result, even if it is worse than the original. Unless the rules
specifcally state otherwise, you may never reroll a reroll.
Not WYSIWYG
An Age of Sword and Arrow is not a What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) game. This means
that the miniatures on the tabletop do not have to be exactly equipped as the unit they represent. For
example, it would be appropriate to feld bow-equipped miniatures to represent a unit of longbowmen,
provided that you clearly inform your opponent before the game begins. This rule is designed to keep
the game from being overly rigid. This is especially important since we do not produce miniatures and
thus players may be unable to fnd fgures that perfectly match what our rules dictate.
2-Dimensional Mechanics
To make gameplay as fuid as possible, An Age of Sword and Arrow treats all game features as
2-dimensional objects. This means that all objects have area but no height, even if they are physically
represented in three dimensions. For example, you may choose to use a 3-dimensional hill on your
game board. Despite the slopes and rise that are physically represented on the tabletop, the height of
the hill has no impact on the gameplay whatsoever. Instead, all that matters is the areathe amount of
groundthat the hill covers.
When youre reading through this ruleset, one way to visualize gameplay is to imagine two
planes, one resting atop the other. The bottom plane represents the board and terrain. In terms of the
chess metaphor, this plane is the chessboard, the ground across which your pieces will maneuver. The
top plane consists of units, the game pieces at your disposal. Because they exist within a 2-D plane, you
cant have multiple units occupying the same area (overlapping each other). However, your units can
interact with the terrain that they are maneuvering across. Imagine you are playing a game of chess
where the different tiles of the board could affect the pieces on top of them! The effect on your units
varies depending on what type of terrain feature they are on.
10
Vocabulary
T
o be able to understand this rulebook, you have to learn a few terms. The following defni-
tions are standardized to make it as easy as possible to understand the rules.
Stands
The term stand refers to a group of identically equipped miniatures that are glued onto a com-
mon base. Together, they constitute a single game piece.
Companies
Most stands are organized into companies, each company consisting of a number of identically
equipped stands. Companies are easy to identify: all their constituent stands are adjacent to each other.
Units
Whenever the game rules refer to a unit, this means any company. This also refers to any
stands that are not part of a company (independent stands).
Casualties
These rules will occasionally refer to stands being destroyed, killed, removed, or re-
moved as a casualty. These terms do not mean that your models are physically damaged in any way.
Instead, remove the stands from the playing surface. These stands many no longer participate in the
current game. This represents their constituent warriors being killed or driven off the feld of battle.
Characteristic Tests
Whenever a unit has to take a characteristic test (e.g. Morale Test, Skill Test, etc.), roll a die and
compare the result to the units corresponding stat value. You want the result (score) to be equal to or
less than the target value. For example, if you are taking a Morale Test at morale 8, a die result of a 1-8
would be a success. A result of a 9 or 10 would be a failure.
Whenever you roll multiple dice, treat each die result as separate. If you roll three dice looking
for a 5 and get a 1, 2, and 7 this would count as two successful rolls and one failed roll.
Modifers
In some cases, the score needed for a successful role will be modifed. For example, there is a
+1 modifer to skill when a company has a height advantage. This means that if a company has a skill
rating of 6, normally needing to roll a 6 or less for a successful attack, it now needs a 7 or less. This has
dramatically increased its chances of a successful attack.
Occasionally, there will be multiple modifers that apply to the same unit. Apply each of the
modifers to the affected unit. For example, an unarmored company with a normal Natural Save of 5
is targeted by ranged weapons, receiving a +1 Natural Save modifer. However, the company is also
Exhausted, giving it a 2 modifer. Thus, the companys fnal Natural Save is a 4, meaning it makes a
successful save on a roll of a 4 or less.
Line of Sight
Line of sight is a term used to indicate which units can directly see each other. To see if line of
sight exists between two points, place a straight measuring implement from one point to the other. If
that line crosses through units of troops or Concealing Terrain features, line of sight is blocked. This
means that the two points in question are considered to be out of line of sight. An Age of Sword and
Arrow does not use true line of sight.
11
12
A massive Islamic force advances into battle.
13
Game Rules
Components
T
his is a list of all the items you will need to play the game.
A Flat Surface
You will need a fat surface to play the game on, preferably a table but the foor can work, too. It
should cover an area of at least 4 by 4 for a normal two-player game. When playing battles with multi-
ple players on each side, the fat surface should be at least 6 by 4. This surface represents the area that
the battle is being fought over. From this point onwards, we will refer to this surface as the board.
Terrain
Because the earths surface is usually not just a fat plane, its a good idea to add some terrain to
the playing surface. This makes the gameplay more dynamic and visually pleasing.
Game Pieces (Stands)
Wargames require pieces to represent groups of soldiers. These playing pieces are the stands.
Each stand is a 40 mm wide by 2040 mm deep rectangle, representing the physical area that a group
of soldiers occupies. Think of a stand as a single piece from a game of chess. It doesnt really matter
what the pieces look like as long as they occupy the right amount of area (i.e. they dont cover multiple
squares), you can tell what type of piece they are, and you know which pieces belong to each player.
Representing units in An Age of Sword and Arrow can be just as easy as chess. The simplest way
to do so is to label each stand according to the unit it represents. For example, if you have a company of
eight spearmen, you could take eight stands and write spearmen on each one. Thats all you need!
Of course, it can add a lot to the game to embellish your stands and make them look cool. If
youve ever seen a custom chess set, you know exactly what we mean. The most common way to do this
is to glue miniatures on top. Miniatures are very tiny fgures that depict historical warriors. By using
accurately modeled fgures, players can instantly identify what type of soldier each stand represents. In
addition, using miniatures adds a lot of aesthetic appeal to the game, especially if theyre well painted.
Its very rewarding to see your lines of Roman legionnaires march across the table!
We recommend that players use miniatures between 6 mm and 15 mm tall. Miniatures under 6
mm tall will be diffcult to tell apart. Miniatures over 15 mm tall may not ft within the base dimensions,
especially in the case of large models such as elephants and chariots.
When gluing miniatures onto your base, take care to have them all facing the same direction to-
wards one of the longer edges. This is important because it matters what direction your troops are facing
during the game. For example, most soldiers cant shoot in the opposite direction theyre facing!
Dice
You will need ten-sided dice (D10s).
A Measuring Implement
An Age of Sword and Arrow doesnt use tiles or game squares like you chess and checkers. In-
stead, distances are represented by literal rates given in inches. For example, an infantry stand with a
movement rate of 6 can move up to 6 across the playing surface during a single Movement Phase.
As a result, you need some sort of measuring implement so that you can measure distances. A ruler or
tape measure would work nicely. If you would prefer to measure using centimeters, multiply the given
measurements by 2.5.
14
An Opponent
Finally, you need someone to play against. While you could play An Age of Sword and Arrow
by yourself, it would greatly diminish many of the strategic aspects that make the game both fun and
challenging. Of course, your opponent will also need stands to represent his army. If he doesnt have his
own pieces, youll have to loan him an army.
A Corinthian helmet ca. 550 B.C.E., standard equipment for the Greek hoplite during the Archaic and Classical periods.
15
The Board
Playing Surface
For standard-sized battles, the board should be a 4 by 4 square. For larger battles, increase the
dimensions of the board as necessary. 6 by 4 is a good size for playing doubles. To make the board aes-
thetically pleasing, you can paint it, apply fock, or use a colored mat to illustrate dirt and grass.
Terrain
Once you have a board to play on, youll want to cover it with terrain. The amount and type of
terrain depends on the location that youre attempting to represent.
Types of Terrain
In An Age of Sword and Arrow there are four categories of terrain: Rough, Diffcult, Treacherous,
and Impassable. The rest of the board counts as Open Ground and has no effect on your troops unless
listed otherwise. These are the general effects of the three terrain categories:
Cavalry suffer 1 attack in Rough Terrain features.
Units that move through Diffcult Terrain receive an additional Fatigue Marker. Cavalry may
not run and suffer 1 attack while in Diffcult Terrain. Cavalry stands that assault through Dif-
fcult Terrain must take Falter Tests.
Cavalry and artillery may not be deployed in or move through Treacherous Ground. Units
may not run across Treacherous Ground and receive a Fatigue Marker when marching or as-
saulting across it.
Units may not be deployed in or move into or through Impassable Terrain.
Units in Terrain
Any stand that is at least partially within a terrain feature counts as being entirely within that
feature. Units may be partially in a terrain feature but receive Fatigue on a unit wide basis. For exam-
ple, this means that your unit of spearmen would gain a Fatigue even if only one of their stands had
marched through Diffcult Terrain.
16
Attrition
Falter Tests
Enemy forces are not the only danger present on the ancient battlefeld. The terrain itself can be deadly
and units may suffer casualties as they traverse steep cliffs, swift rivers, and other obstacles. Even the weather can
be deadly as men collapse from exhaustion under the hot summer sun or freeze to death in a blizzard. Even more
frightening is the danger of confusion and chaos on the battlefeld. If a unit loses order and the mass of men begins
to frighten and press together, there is the serious possibility of being trampled by ones own comrades. This dan-
ger is exacerbated in diffcult terrain, creating further confusion and casualties. An interesting example of this is
the 1415 Battle of Agincourt during which a signifcant number of French men-at-arms died from being knocked
over by their own men. Their armor was heavy enough that they couldnt pull themselves out of the thick mud and
drowned.
Units are required to take Falter Tests when crossing certain terrain features. Roll a D10 for the
unit. If the result is a 9 or more, the test fails. The number the roll fails by indicates how many stands
must be removed as casualties. For example, your unit needs to roll a 7 or lower to pass its Falter Test.
Unfortunately, you roll a 9, which is 2 more than what you needed. This means that 2 of your units
stands are destroyed. Otherwise, the test is passed and your unit remains unaffected.
Each unit only has to take a single Falter Test each phase. If the unit makes several actions that
would require a Falter Test, all of those Falter Tests are compiled into a single test.
EXAMPLE:
An Exhausted unit of heavy cavalry runs across quicksand and rocky ground. The unit must
take a Falter Test with a 2 penalty (running while Exhausted [thereby incurring a Fatigue and prompt-
ing a Falter Test], 1 for moving over Quicksand, and 1 for being a heavy unit). Thus, the unit will
fail its Falter Test on a roll of 7 or more.
Note that the following modifers affect the score required to pass the Falter Test, not your actual
die roll. For example, this means that light units are less likely to fail a Falter Test.
+1
-x
-1
Classifed as light
Classifed as heavy
Terrain penalties as listed
Fatigue and Exhaustion
When units move across certain types of terrain or run, they receive a Fatigue Marker. A unit
may accumulate Fatigue up to the value of its Stamina static. As soon as that limit is reached, the unit is
Exhausted and may not be issued any more Fatigue. For any Fatigue that they would suffer, they must
instead take Falter Tests. Note that Fatigue is issued on a unit-wide basis. For example, this means that
if an Exhausted unit marches but only one of its constituent stands moves through Diffcult Terrain, the
whole unit would still suffer one Fatigue Marker. However, since they are Exhausted and cannot be
issued any more Fatigue Markers, the whole unit is forced to take a Falter Test.
17
Units may lose Exhaustion by resting. Units also receive Fatigue Markers due to enemy shoot-
ing, being assaulted, or participating in combat. Units must take 1 Fatigue Marker for every 3 hits they
suffer during any single Shooting Phase (rounded down). Units must take Fatigue Markers if an enemy
assaults them. Finally, units must take a Fatigue marker at the end of every Combat Phase during which
they participated in combat.
Exhaustion Penalties
Exhausted units suffer a 2 penalty to their Natural Save, Shock, and Harassment Values, to a
minimum of 0.
Eurasia ca. 1206, Genghis Khan unites the Mongol clans.
18
Terrain Features
T
his section describes the rules for all the types of terrain features you might use on your bat-
tlefeld. Terrain features classifed as Concealing Terrain block line of sight.
Open Ground
The following terrain features are classifed as Open Ground. They have effects on gameplay as
listed below:
1. Fields, Grass, Light Snow, Ice, Roads, and Bridges
2. Thin IceUnits must take Falter Tests when moving across thin ice.
3. Towns and VillagesTowns and villages are Concealing Terrain. In addition, units never
count as charging when initiating combat within a town or village. This means, for example,
that cavalry and elephants fght in combat using their reduced number of attacks, even on
turns when they charged.
4. RiversUnits attempting to cross must march or charge across at speed. For each turn that
the unit spends crossing or attempting to cross a river it must take a Falter Test. Units that
charge into or across rivers do not count as charging for the purposes of shock and their num-
ber of attacks.
5. Gentle HillsHills have two sections, the slope and the crest. The crest represents the top of
the hill and is completely surround by either slopes or cliffs. The crest blocks line of sight
across it but not to and from units on top of it. For example, a ranged unit positioned on top of
the hillcrest can shoot at targets in any direction. If the unit was positioned on the slope, it
could shoot in any direction except through the crest of the hill. Units that are on the hill and
closer to the crest than their targets receive a +1 bonus to skill. This represents the advantage
of taking the high ground during shooting and combat.
Rough Terrain Features
Cavalry suffer 1 attack in Rough Terrain features, to a minimum of 1 attack. The following ter-
rain features are classifed as Rough Terrain:
1. Muddy Fields, Heavy Snow, Rocky Ground, and Sand Dunes
2. Woods, Vineyards, Orchards, and RuinsConcealing Terrain.
3. Rocky HillsRocky hills are hills that count as Rough Terrain.
4. Streams and FordsUnits positioned in streams and fords suffer 1 penalties to their skill and
Natural Save. Units that run across streams and fords must take Falter Tests.
5. QuicksandUnits must take Falter Tests when moving across quicksand.
19
Diffcult Terrain
Units that move through Diffcult Terrain receive an additional Fatigue Marker. Cavalry may not
run and suffer 1 attack while in Diffcult Terrain, to a minimum of 1 attack. Cavalry units that assault
through Diffcult Terrain must take Falter Tests.
1. Thick Mud, Wetlands, and Steep Hills
2. ForestConcealing Terrain.
Treacherous Ground
Cavalry and artillery may not be deployed in or move through Treacherous Ground. Units may
not run across Treacherous Ground and must receive a Fatigue Marker when marching through or as-
saulting from it.
1. Scree SlopesScree slopes are hills that count as Treacherous Ground.
2. Swamps and JungleConcealing Terrain.
Impassable Terrain
Units may not be deployed in or move into or through Impassable Terrain.
1. Cliffs, Gorges, and Wide Rivers
20
Unit
Organization
Stands
Each 40 mm by 2040 mm base is referred to as a stand and is the simplest grouping of soldiers
in the game. Each stand represents anything from a few dozen to a few hundred warriors, depending
on the scale of the battle. Although a stand represents several soldiers, they all combine to form a single
stat line and will fght and die as a group. This means that miniatures are never removed from a stand.
Instead, if casualties are suffered, the entire stand counts as destroyed and is removed from the game.
Companies
Stands are rarely ever felded by themselves. Instead, stands are often organized into companies,
each company consisting of a number of identically equipped stands. Unless stated otherwise in their
unit profle, infantry companies consist of 3 to 8 stands while cavalry companies consist of 3 to 4 stands.
In terms of movement, Fatigue, and Morale Tests, companies always count as a coherent unit. In the
case of Morale Tests, this means that you only need to roll a single die for the entire company.
EXAMPLE
A company consisting of four stands of spearmen needs to take a Morale Test. Instead of rolling
four dice (one for each stand) you only need to roll one die for the entire company. If the die result is
successful, the entire company counts as having successfully passed the Morale Test. Similarly, if the die
result is a failure, the entire company counts as having failed.
Company Coherency Company Facing
Movement Speed
All the stands belonging to the same company must
be adjacent to each other. If, for some reason, a gap de-
velops separating stands from the same company, they
must be moved back together at the earliest opportu-
nity. The only exception to this rule are stands with the
Skirmisher special rule who may be up to apart.
Companies are organized by ranks, each of
which can be between 2 to 4 stands wide. The front
ranks must be flled in frst, such that no rank is wider
than any rank before it. If stands in the front ranks are
killed, stands in the back ranks are moved forward to
replace them.
Except in extraordinary circumstances, all the stands
belonging to the same company must face the same di-
rection. This means that each company has four distinct
facings. The direction in which the company is facing
is its front. The areas to its right and left are its fanks.
Finally, the area behind the company is its rear. These
facing arcs are extended out of the companys corners
at a 45 angle such that each arc forms a quadrant.
Companies must always move at the slowest move-
ment speed of their constituent stands.
Attachments
Some army lists allow you to purchase specifc types of troops as attachments. These stands do
not constitute an independent unit. Instead, their job is to support one of your main units. Choose one
of your infantry units for them to join and place them in the rear rank. The attached stands constitute
part of their host unit for all intents and purposes. Each of your infantry companies may only have one
unit of attached stands. Even though they are in the rear rank, attached stands may still participate in
combat provided that they may make attacks.
Independent Stands
Independent stands are those stands that are not permanent members of any company. In most
cases, treat independent stands as if they were a company composed of a single stand.
21
E
ach stand in An Age of Sword and Arrow has its own characteristics that represent its indi-
vidual skills and capabilities. These characteristics are displayed in its unit stat lines. Here is
an example stat line for a stand of Norman Milites (knights):
Type Shck Hras Skll Arm Mor Stam Size Cost
Milites CHC 3/1 1/0 7 1 9 6 3-4 66
Unit Type (Type)
There are several different types of units, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.
With the exception of elephants and artillery, most units are listed as three letters. The frst refers to its
combat role: close combat (C) or ranged (R). The second is its mobility: light (L), medium (M), or heavy
(H). The last letter indicates either infantry (I) or cavalry (C).
Shock (Shck)
A units Shock Value represents the ferocity of its charge. Heavily armed and armored units
such as Persian cataphracts have a much fercer charge than a group of peasants waving pitchforks!
When a unit with a Shock Value greater than 0 successfully charges an enemy, that enemy receives 1
Fatigue Marker for each Shock Value. For example, if a unit of Norman Milites with a Shock Value of 3
successfully charges a unit of peasants, those peasants immediately gain 3 Fatigue Markers. Note that
if a unit has two Shock Values divided by a slash, the frst number is its value when mounted whereas
the second number is its value when dismounted.
Harassment (Hras)
A units Harassment Value represents its ability to skirmish with enemies and disrupt their for-
mation. Lighter armed units, especially when mounted on horseback, are quick and agile, making them
much better at harassment than more heavily armored soldiers. Units with a Harassment Value greater
than 0 may probe an enemy unit in the Assault Phase. The enemy unit suffers 1 Fatigue Marker for each
value of your units harassment statistic. If a unit has two Harassment Values divided by a slash, the
frst number is its value when mounted whereas the second number is its value when dismounted.
Skill (Skll)
Skill measures a units combat prowess and experience. Whenever a stand rolls attack dice
during shooting or combat, use its Skill Value as the score required for each die to hit. If a die result is
equal to or less than the stands Skill Value, it counts as a successful attack and has the potential to de-
stroy enemy stands. Otherwise, the attack fails and has no effect.
Armor (Arm)
A stands Armor Value measures the strength and durability of its protection. Whenever taking
a save, a units Armor Value is added to its Natural Save. Thus, units with a higher armor rating are
more likely to survive enemy attacks. A units Armor save bonus can be negated by enemy weapons
with an armor piercing (AP) value. Reduce your Armor save bonus for each AP value of the enemys
weapon, to a minimum of zero.
Unit
Characteristics
22
Morale (Mor)
Morale measures a units courage and fghting spirit.
Stamina (Stam)
Stamina measures a units level of battlefeld endurance. While this also represents physical
stamina, it is more dependent on the soldiers experience, level of training, and discipline. A units
Stamina Value indicates how many Fatigue Markers it can accumulate before it becomes Exhausted.
Size & Cost
A units size indicates the number of stands that it may feld. A units cost is its price (point cost)
per each stand. These values help players design their armies.
Eurasia ca. 1279, the Mongol Empire at its greatest extent.
23
T
Unit Types
Ranged Units (R)
Ranged units are those units who are not trained to fght in close combat. Ranged units:
Receive an additional Fatigue Marker when successfully charged in close combat.
Have 1 less attack in close combat per stand, to a minimum of 1. For example, this means that
ranged cavalry have only 1 attack per stand on turns when they charge into close combat (com-
bat cavalry would have 2 attacks per stand).
Suffer a 2 penalty to Combat Resolution and are thus more likely to lose when fghting hand-
to-hand.
Combat Units (C)
Combat units are primarily trained to fght in close combat. Sometimes they are also armed with
ranged weapons (this may also represent ranged soldiers integrated into their unit). In this case, they
may use their ranged weapons during the Shooting Phase but suffer a 1 penalty to their rate of fre, to
a minimum of 1.
here are several different types of units, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.
With the exception of elephants and artillery, most units are listed as three letters. The frst
refers to its combat role: close combat (C) or ranged (R). The second is its mobility: light (L),
medium (M), or heavy (H). The last letter indicates either infantry (I) or cavalry (C). As mo-
bility is heavily interconnected with being either infantry or cavalry, it is explained under the
Infantry
Infantry were the most common soldier type in the medieval era. Infantry units can be extreme-
ly varied, ranging from armed brigands to noble samurai. Nonetheless, infantry units all share one
commonality: they fght on foot. Although this means they are not as fast as mounted soldiers, they are
signifcantly more agile in diffcult terrain. Additionally, since they dont have to pay for their horses
upkeep, infantry units are generally less expensive. Employing even the most elite infantry unit will be
signifcantly less pricey than its mounted counterpart. Infantry units are subject to the following rules:
March Distance: 6
Run Distance: 10
Assault Distance: 4
Slow: Infantry units may not arrive from reserve during the frst round of the game.
Attacks: Infantry stands have 2 attacks in close combat.
Light Infantry (LI)
Light infantry forgo heavy equipment so that they can better move through rough terrain.
Woodsmen: Light infantry never receive Fatigue due to moving across terrain.
Fast Deployment: Light infantry receive a +1 bonus when rolling to arrive from reserve.
Quick: Light infantry may run and assault an additional 2.
Agile: Light infantry may make reform maneuvers without expending movement. In addition, they
beneft from a +1 bonus to Falter Tests.
24
relevant infantry and cavalry sections.
Medium Infantry (MI)
Heavy Infantry (HI)
Light Cavalry (LC)
Medium Cavalry (MC)
Heavy Cavalry (HC)
Special Types of Cavalry
Medium infantry are the typical soldiers of the medieval era. They are neither heavily armored nor are
they particularly mobile in diffcult terrain.
Heavy infantry are the elite of medieval infantry. They are clad in great suits of armor that make them
almost impervious to enemy attacks. Unfortunately, such armor is also very burdensome and tiring, causing them
to become easily exhausted.
Clumsy: Heavy infantry suffer a 1 penalty to Falter Tests.
Cavalry
Horses are expensive to maintain but are worth their weight in gold. Their speed allows cavalry
to outmaneuver their enemies, giving them a decisive battlefeld advantage. Cavalry units are subject to
the following rules:
March Distance: 10
Run Distance: 16
Assault Distance: 6
Attack Order: Charging cavalry units make their combat attacks before enemy infantry and
artillery. This means that infantry units will suffer casualties before being able to strike back.
Attacks: Cavalry units have 1 attack per stand. This is increased to 2 attacks if they charged
this turn.
Light cavalry are the most mobile elements of the medieval army. Their light armor gives them greater
mobility but leaves them vulnerable to prolonged melees.
Agile: Light cavalry may make reform maneuvers without expending movement. In addition, they ben-
eft from a +1 bonus to Falter Tests.
Quick: Light cavalry may run and assault an additional 2.
Vanguard: Light cavalry receive a +1 bonus when rolling to arrive from reserve.
Medium cavalry are the standard cavalry of the medieval era. They are neither heavily armored nor par-
ticularly swift-footed.
Heavy cavalry are the masters of the battlefeld. An ordered charge of heavy horse will break almost any
enemy, crushing the foe beneath a wave of horse and iron.
Clumsy: Heavy cavalry suffer a 1 penalty to Falter Tests.
Camels: Some factions may upgrade their cavalry units to be mounted on camels. Units mounted on camels are
still cavalry and follow the normal rules for their unit type. Camels units are Terrifying to all non-camel cavalry,
both friends and enemies.
Chariots: Some factions may feld chariot units. Units mounted on chariots are still cavalry and follow the normal
rules for their unit type. Chariots must take Falter Tests when running or assaulting across Rough Terrain. In ad-
dition, they suffer a 1 penalty to Falter Tests.
25
Artillery: Although mostly used for siege battles, artillery units were occasionally employed during feld battles.
If positioned correctly, they could be used to deadly effect.
March Distance: 6
Cannot Run: Artillery units cannot run.
Cannot Charge: Artillery units cannot charge or otherwise initiate close combat.
Non-Combat Unit: If an enemy unit successfully charges your artillery, the artillery unit is immediately
Exhausted.
May not Fall Back: If an artillery unit would be forced to fall back from combat, it is destroyed.
Attacks: Artillery units have 1 close combat attack per stand.
Bulky: Artillery units suffer a 1 penalty to Falter Tests.
Slow: Artillery units may not arrive from reserve during the frst round of the game.
Ranged Units: All artillery are ranged units.
Note that most army lists do not include the stat lines for artillery units. Instead, each army list will indicate which
artillery units it can use (if any). Stats for those artillery units can be found within the Artillery Support List.
Elephants: Elephants are a terrifying sight to behold on the battlefeld. Massive creatures, they can crush men,
horses, and steel beneath their incredible bulk.
March Distance: 6
Cannot Run: Elephants are too heavy to move quickly for sustained periods. They cannot run.
Assault Distance: 6
Slow: Elephants may not arrive from reserve during the frst round of the game.
Attack Order: Charging elephant units make their combat attacks before enemy infantry, artillery, and
cavalry. This means that enemy units will suffer casualties before being able to strike back.
Terrifying: Elephants are Terrifying.
Rampage: Every Phase that an elephant unit suffers Fatigue due to enemy shooting, you must roll to see
if they rampage. Roll a D10 with a 1 penalty for each Fatigue Marker they incurred this Phase. If the
fnal score is a 1 or less, they go on a rampage. The elephant unit immediately charges the nearest unit
in any facing, whether friend or foe, and initiates combat. The rampaging elephants will continue to
attack units in this manner until they are killed.
May not Ambush: Elephants may never be held in ambush.
Attacks: Elephant stands have 3 attacks per stand. This is increased to 4 attacks on turns when they
charge into close combat.
Crushing Blow: Elephant close combat attacks are AP 3. In addition, targeted cavalry units suffer an
additional 1 penalty to their Natural Save.
Combat Units: All elephants are combat units.
Unattached Generals: If you choose not to attach your general to one of your units, he remains as an independent
stand and is subject to the following rules:
Counts as combat light cavalry unless mounted on an elephant
Never suffers Fatigue and cannot become Exhausted
Grants a +1 Morale bonus to friendly units within 4
26
Saves
S
aves represent both a stands natural resiliency and any protective equipment that it may
be armed with. In An Age of Sword and Arrow, saves are broken down into two categories,
Natural Saves and Armor. Both of these factors are combined to determine a stands save, or
saving throw value. In order to survive hits from enemy weapons, your units must roll less
than or equal to their Natural Save value.
All units have a Natural Save value of 5. Not all units have Armor and those that are equipped
have a variable value depending on their level of protection.
Modifers to Saves
All units receive a +1 bonus to their Natural Save when targeted by ranged weapons.
Exhausted units suffer a 2 penalty to their Natural Save.
Some weapons may reduce the Natural Save or the Armor Value of their target. These pen-
alties are only applied when these weapons hit the target and do not permanently affect the
targets Save Values.
EXAMPLE:
A unit of huscarls wearing heavy armor have a Natural Save Value of 5 and an Armor Value of 2,
giving them a combined Save Value of 7. A unit of enemy crossbowmen shoot at the huscarls. Since the
crossbows are AP 3 weapons, they reduce the value of huscarls Armor save bonus by 3, to a total of 0,
leaving just their Natural Save. However, because crossbows are a ranged weapon, the huscarls beneft
from a +1 bonus to their Natural Save. This means that for each hit that the huscarl unit receives, it must
roll equal to or under its Save Value of 6 or lose a stand as a casualty.
The same unit of huscarls is charged by an enemy unit of levy infantry carrying hand weapons.
Since the levy infantry are only carrying hand weapons (AP 0), their hits do not reduce the huscarls
Armor save bonus. This means that for each hit that the huscarl unit receives, it must roll equal to or
under a Save Value of 7 (Natural Save of 5 plus Armor bonus of 2). For each roll that exceeds this save,
the huscarls lose a stand as a casualty.
27
Equipment
A
ll of your units require equipment to fght effectively: even the best of your soldiers can-
not beat the enemy just with their bare fsts! Equipment is divided into 3 categories: armor,
close-combat weapons, and ranged weapons. Sometimes your units have the option to pur-
chase additional equipment as noted in their army list entry. In this case, you may choose to
equip the unit as noted provided you pay the listed point cost. This will improve the upgrad-
ed unit but will leave you with fewer points to spend on other units.
Armor
Armor is any equipment designed to protect your units. This includes shields, chainmail, steel
helmets and anything else that softens an enemy blow or stops an arrow. A units Armor Value depends
on the type of armor it is equipped with:
Value Armor
1 Light
2 Medium
3 Heavy
Whenever taking a save, a units Armor Value is added to its Natural Save. Thus, units with a higher
armor rating are more likely to survive enemy attacks.
Pavaise
Units equipped with pavaises receive a +1 Armor bonus when targeted by enemy shooting.
Stirrups
Cavalry stands that are equipped with stirrups have an additional attack in close combat. For example,
this means that a unit of charging combat cavalry equipped with stirrups has 3 attacks per stand.
Ranged Weapons
Ranged weapons are only used during your Shooting Phase or in defensive fre. They allow the
equipped unit to fre at enemy units from a distance. All ranged weapons have a rate of fre (RoF) which
determines how many shots that weapon can fre at a time. Additionally, ranged weapons have ammu-
nition value which indicates how many times the unit may fre before it is out of ammo. Units equipped
with multiple ranged weapons may only use one type of ranged weapon each turn. For a list of ranged
weapons, see page 48.
Close Combat Weapons
Close combat weapons are only used during the Combat Phase. They enable your troops to at-
tack the enemy when fghting in close quarters. Most units may only use 1 close combat weapon during
a turn. However, if equipment is listed with a hyphen (-), then the unit uses both pieces of equipment
simultaneously. The unit receives all of the benefts from both weapons but only uses the higher save
modifer (e.g. AP); these modifers are not cumulative. For a list of close combat weapons, see page 55.
28
Armor Penetration (AP)
Some weapons are listed as having an armor penetration, or AP. This means that these weapons
are powerful enough to break through enemy armor and are thus best unemployed against heavily ar-
mored opponents. When one of your stands hits an enemy, the enemys Armor save bonus is reduced
by 1 for each level of your weapons AP, to a minimum of 0.
EXAMPLE:
When your stand of crossbowmen (AP 3) shoots an enemy unit with an Armor Value of 2, your
enemys Armor save bonus is reduced to 0. This means that your enemy must roll equal to or under its
Natural Save value of 6 or be removed as a casualty.
Upgrades
Some units may be upgraded. These upgrades usually provide the unit with additional equip-
ment but may also allow them to use special rules. Each upgrade has a cost. When purchasing a unit
with upgrades, add in the cost of the upgrade to the base cost of a stand: this is the units new cost per
stand. Note, that all stands within a unit must be similarly upgraded (you may not upgrade just half of
the stands with spears).
Stirrup, England ca. 12th13th centuries. The invention of the stirrup transformed warfare,
giving mounted warriors a more solid platform from which to attack their foes. This made
mounted soldiers much more fearsome, leading eventually to the emergence of the European knight.
29
Unit Special Rules
S
ome units are subject to the following special rules, as listed on their unit profle. Unit profles
are located in their respective Army List, available for download online.
Cataphracts
Combat Specialists
Fanatical
Foreign Allies
Highly Drilled
Impetuous
Insignifcant
Phalanx
Parthian Shot
Skirmishers
Cataphracts only gain Fatigue for every 4 hits that they suffer from enemy fre.
Ranged units with the Combat Specialists special rule do not suffer any of the dis-
advantages of being a ranged unit.
Units with the Fanatical special rule ignore negative morale modifers.
Some companies are listed as Foreign Allies. Your general may never join compa-
nies composed of Foreign Allies. In addition, you may not expend command dice to
reroll or boost Foreign Allies rolls on the Tides of Battle chart.
Units with the Highly Drilled special rule never suffer Fatigue while moving
through a friendly unit. In addition, they may perform reform maneuvers without
expending movement.
Impetuous units require an additional command point to execute your orders. The
one exception is a run order provided your unit advances directly towards the near-
est enemy.
Some units are not equipped to stand and fght. Subsequently, no one is too con-
cerned if these units Break or are destroyed. If a unit with the Insignifcant special
rule Breaks, is destroyed, or fees through a friendly unit, friendly units are not
required to take Break Tests. In addition, Insignifcant units do not cause a Morale
penalty if they are destroyed or routed off the table, and are ignored for the purpos-
es of Withdrawal Tests.
Cavalry stands with the Parthian Shot special rule may fre at targets in their rear
and left facings. In addition, they may make a retreat action even if they are in the
previous Shooting Phase or are fring in defensive fre.
Units with the Phalanx special rule that lose Combat Resolution by a value of 2 or
less do not have to roll on the Tides of Battle chart. Essentially, they count that com-
bat as a draw. In addition, whenever they would suffer Fatigue due to shock, that
Fatigue is reduced by a value of 1. However, Phalanxes suffer from a lack of maneu-
verability and are unable to maintain order when fghting on rough terrain. Phalanx
units may not make Assault Reactions, or attempt Feigned Flights and must expend
4 of movement to make reform actions. Additionally, units with the Phalanx spe-
cial rule also receive an additional Fatigue for moving across or fghting on Rough,
Diffcult, or Treacherous Terrain.
Skirmisher units may perform a Retreat charge reaction. Infantry Skirmishers do
not block line of sight. Skirmishers are always considered to have the Subordinate
Initiative special rule.
30
A small Roman force ready for battle.
Stubborn
Subordinate Initiative
Terrifying
Stubborn units receive a +1 bonus to their rolls on the Tides of Battle chart.
Units with Subordinate Initiative may march in any direction without expending
command.
Some units are listed as Terrifying. Your units must pass a Morale Test to charge a
Terrifying enemy. If this test is failed, your unit may not make an action during this
Assault Phase. Units within 8 of Terrifying units are terrifed and suffer a 1 Mor
penalty. When calculating Combat Resolution, any side which includes at least one
terrifed stand suffers a 1 penalty.
31
Morale
U
nits begin the game with high morale, often with a value of 9 or above (and thus only fail
Morale Tests on a roll of 10). These represent fresh units who are eager to win glory through
heroic combat. However, as the battle begins in earnest and the men are exposed to the hor-
rors of warfare, their courage begins to waver.
There are two main types of Morale Tests: Break Tests and Rally Tests. Roll a D10 and compare it
to the units morale value, making sure to add any required modifers. If the result is less than or equal
to the units morale value, the test is passed. Otherwise, the unit fails. Both of these types of Morale Tests
are subject to the following modifers:
+2
-1
-1
-2
+1
-1
-2
If there are no non-routing enemies within 10
If your unit includes your general, or is within 4 of an unattached friendly general
For each friendly Broken unit within 8
If your unit is within 8 of a Terrifying enemy
If your general has been destroyed, is broken, or has routed off the board
Your unit has fewer than its starting number of stands still alive
Your unit is Broken
Break Tests
Except for the most diehard soldiers, most men will run if they believe that defeat is certain.
Such hopelessness leads men to fee and abandon their lord and fellow soldiers in the desire to save
their own lives. Ironically, this desperate action often causes catastrophic defeat and massacre as more
and more soldiers see their comrades running and lose heart.
Break Tests are Morale Tests to see if your unit begins feeing and are always taken at the end of
the phase. If a unit fails a Break Test, it immediately turns directly away from its nearest enemies and
moves its full charge movement +2 towards the nearest board edge. It now counts as a feeing unit.
Place a Broken token next to it. There are three situations in which a unit is required to take a Break Test:
32
1. If your unit was within 8 of a friendly unit or general that was destroyed or Broken.
2. If a friendly unit fees through your unit.
3. If your unit suffered casualties from enemy Shooting during this phase and its stands are re-
duced to less than half of its starting number (it is below half strength).
If a unit passes a Break Test, it is considered to automatically pass any additional Break Tests it
would be required to take during this game phase.
Broken units suffer the following penalties:
May not shoot or engage in combat in any way
May not move except to move their maximum movement rate possible towards the near-
est board edge (excluding the enemys deployment edges) during their opponents Rally Phase
while avoiding enemy units by at least 2. If it is impossible for a feeing unit to move its max-
imum movement distance while avoiding enemy units, your feeing unit is destroyed. Note
that feeing units continue to accumulate Fatigue and suffer Falter Tests.
If a feeing unit is charged by an enemy, the feeing unit is immediately destroyed.
Rally Tests
Your feeing units may attempt to rally during your Rally Phase. If they pass their Morale Test,
they are no longer Broken and may act as normal. Otherwise, they continue to fee.
Withdrawal Tests
The third and fnal type of Morale Test is a Withdrawal Test. Every turn during which your
opponent controls one of your objectives or if more than half of your non-insignifcant units have been
destroyed, are feeing, or have been routed off the board, your general is required to take a Withdrawal
Test. This test is taken at the start of the Rally Phase and is only subject to the following modifers:
-3
-1
For each friendly, non-Insignifcant unit that is destroyed or routed off the board
For each of your objectives controlled by your opponent
If your general passes this test, your army endures its losses and the game continues. Otherwise, the
game immediately ends and your opponent gains 2 Victory Points. If your general is destroyed, Broken,
or routed off the board, you automatically fail any Withdrawal Tests that you are required to take.
Objectives
Some scenarios include objectives, fat rectangles that should be 2 by 2. These are somewhat
abstract components that indicate areas of important ground. For example, they could designate the
presence of a baggage train, the kings tent, or other crucial battlefeld feature. Objectives are deployed
at the beginning of the game following the scenario instructions. When placing objectives, players are
encouraged to situate them in terrain which would be of obvious strategic value such as at a crossroads
or atop a bridge.
You may seize control of an opponents objective by positioning a non-insignifcant unit within
4 of the objective. If, however, your opponent also has a non-insignifcant unit within range of the ob-
jective, it is still contested and thus cannot be seized until those enemies are destroyed, forced back, or
otherwise move away.
33
Command
B
efore explaining how to set up the game, the last section we need to cover is command. Your
army has between 3 to 15 command points, corresponding to your generals Leadership rank
multiplied by 3. These points may be used during any turn of the game but do not regenerate.
This means that they can only be used once; once expended, they are gone for the rest of the
game. If your general is destroyed, any remaining command points that you might have are
immediately discarded.
Movement Orders
You use command points to give orders to your units, usually during the Movement Phase.
You must expend a command point to order a unit to move in any direction not directly towards the
enemies, to run, or to form a square formation. For example, if you want your unit of cavalry to move
far out to a fank, you will have to issue it a command point. These points may be spent cumulatively to
execute more complex maneuvers. For example, if you want your unit to move away from its enemies
and run at the same time, you would have to expend 2 command points.
There are a few other instances in the game which require you to issue orders to your troops. You
must issue 3 command points for each unit attempting a Feigned Flight action. Similarly, you must ex-
pend 3 command points to prevent each of your units from pursuing enemies defeated in close combat
or making a Feigned Flight.
The last way to utilize command points is to inspire valor in your troops. Whenever your units
roll on the Tides of Battle chart, you may expend 3 command points to reroll the result.
34
The Board and Terrain
You frst need to set up the board and any terrain that you are going to place on it. Position the
board in a convenient location which allows easy access for all players. Make sure that the board is
sturdy so it wont fip over or fall during gameplay. Add any grass mats or other enhancements to your
board surface as you see ft.
Once the board is set up, youll want to cover it with terrain. The amount of terrain you use is de-
pendent on the environment that youre trying to imitate. If youre recreating a battle set in the middle
of the Arabian Desert, you probably wont have too much besides a few scattered sand dunes. On the
other hand, if youre recreating a battle in the French countryside, youll want to include items such as
woods, villages, and farm felds. If youre trying to represent a particular historical battle, it can be very
rewarding to print out a map of the actual battlefeld and try to recreate its main features on your board.
Creating your Army
The last thing you need to do to before starting a game of An Age of Sword and Arrow is to design
and build an army. To do so, select an Army List from the Army Lists supplements available online.
Each Army List provides an inventory of all the units that particular nationality can feld. These units
are broken down into six categories: General, Core, Support, Rare, Artillery, and Attachments. Note that
you may only feld units from a single Army List; you may not employ units from multiple lists. There
are also a few requirements that you must meet when building your army:
1. GeneralYour army must have a single general
2. Core: 50% or more At least of your units must be Core units. Note that, unless listed oth-
erwise, units of infantry Skirmishers do not contribute to this requirement.
3. Support: 50% or lessNo more than of your units may be Support units
4. Rare: 25% or lessNo more than of your units may be Rare units
5. Artillery: 1 UnitNo more than 1 unit may be artillery
Purchasing Units
Each unit in An Age of Sword and Arrow has a cost value, measured in points. This is the cost of the
units individual stands and must be multiplied by the number of stands in the unit to derive the units
total cost. A units cost represents its overall combat value relative to other units. Units with exceptional
soldiers (e.g. samurai) will have a much higher cost than units composed of poor soldiers (reluctant
militia). This cost discrepancy represents the vast difference in the units combat effectiveness.
When building armies, it is suggested that both players spend approximately the same number
of points. This means that both armies should have the same overall combat effectiveness and an equal
chance of victory. However, this does not mean that every battle between these armies will be a draw.
Instead, players will have to rely on superior tactics and planning to defeat their opponent.
However, standard battles are by no means the only type of engagement. You may want to fght
mismatched battles in which one side is vastly outnumbered by an enemy army. This can still be a fair
battle if the smaller army is defending terrain which seriously hinders the larger army (e.g. Thermopy-
lae). You might also want to recreate historical battles, using a realistic representation of the troops that
were present.
Be careful to follow the army requirements described above. For historical battles, these restric-
tions can be ignored.
Preparing the
Game
35
Generals
Your general is the leader of your army. In effect, he represents you, the player, guiding your
troops as they seek to prevail against the foe. Your generals stand has the following stat line:
Type Shck Hras Skll Arm Mor Stam
Generals Unit - - - 6 1 11 -
Joining Companies
Bodyguard Save
Leadership & Strategy
Tactics, Traits, & Retainers
Before the game begins, you must choose whether you
want to attach your general to one of your non-artil-
lery and non-insignifcant companies. He is consid-
ered to be a part of that company for all intents and
purposes. Place him in the front rank. As a member
of a company, the general is subject to anything that
affects the company as a whole, such as being shot at,
failing a Morale Test, etc. Your general adopts the unit
type, equipment, and special rules of his host compa-
ny. Note that your general may not be attached to in-
dependent stands.
Companies always use their own ratings and
never use the ratings of an attached general. The gen-
erals morale value is only used for Withdrawal Tests.
Unless your general is subject to the Impetuous special
rule, you do not have to expend command points to
move a company that your general is attached to: they
are free to move in any direction. Additionally, the host
company benefts from a +1 bonus when rolling on the
Tides of Battle chart.
If you choose not to attach your general, he re-
mains an independent stand and is considered to be
light cavalry unless listed otherwise. Unless he is sub-
ject to the Impetuous special rule, he may move in any
direction without being issued command points.
Choosing a Scenario
Unless you are recreating a historical battle, you have to pick a scenario. If your generals Strate-
gy rating is at least 3 ranks higher than your opponents, you may choose which scenario to play. Other-
wise, choose a scenario at random. There will be a list of scenarios you may choose from in the Scenarios
supplement available online. Until that time, feel free to create your own missions.
Deploying your Armies
The fnal step is for you and your opponent to deploy your troops. For historical battles, try to
place your miniatures where their real-life counterparts were arranged. For standard scenarios, follow
the scenarios deployment guide. This will tell you where the deployment zones are located and who
will be the attacker and who will be the defender.
If your generals Strategy rank is greater than your opponents, you get to pick which deploy-
ment zone you want to deploy in. Furthermore, if your Strategy rating is at least 3 ranks higher than
your opponents, he must deploy his entire army before you deploy any units. Otherwise, you and your
opponent switch off deploying one unit at a time, starting with the defender.
being the worst and 5 being the best. Your general is
automatically assumed to be rank 1. When creating
your army, you may purchase additional ranks for 50
points for each rank of either Leadership or Strategy.
Each rank of Leadership gives you 3 command dice.
Higher Strategy ranks give your army advantages
during mission selection and deployment.
Your generals also have two additional stats, Leader-
ship and Strategy. These stats are ranked 15, with 1
Besides purchasing Leadership and Strategy ranks for
your general, you may also purchase Tactics, Traits,
and Retainers. This selection is entirely optional but it
helps give your army more individuality and a unique
character. Traits are also great for coming up with
good epithets for your leader. Who wouldnt want
their army led by Ulric Half-troll, Brom the Beardless,
or Vladislav the Tyrant? To see the full list of Tactics,
Traits, and Retainers, see the Generals supplement
available online.
Protected by a bodyguard of ferce warriors, your
general is extremely hard to kill. Whenever his stand
would be destroyed due to failing a save from enemy
shooting or close combat, roll a die. Your general sur-
vives on a roll of 6 or less. If your general passes this
save, he lives. Do not remove his stand. Otherwise,
your general fails his bodyguard save and is destroyed.
36
A Roman Legion on the march.
Playing the Game
N
ow that the battlefeld is all set up and the armies are deployed, it is time to begin the game!
The players take turns maneuvering their armies of miniature warriors in the hope of win-
ning the battle. Whichever scenario you are playing should identify the player who goes frst.
Otherwise, it is assumed that the attacker gets to go frst.
Each players turn has fve phases: the Rally, Movement, Shooting, Assault, and
Combat Phases, in that order. Once a player has fnished his turn, his opponent takes his turn. When
both players have completed taking turns, one round of the game is fnished. The players continue to
alternate taking turns until one player has won the battle. Alternatively, both players may choose to end
the battle after a set number of rounds, agreed upon before the battle begins.
37
38
39
Rally Phase
T
he Rally Phase is the 1st phase of the turn. During this phase, the active player attempts to
reform his units and prepare his force for battle. The Rally Phase is composed of six steps:
1. Check if Game Ends
2. Broken Enemy Units Flee
3. Attempt to Rally Broken Troops
4. Roll for Reserves
5. Place Ambushes
6. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
1. Check if Game Ends
At the start of the Rally Phase, check to see if either player has fulflled their victory conditions.
If they have, the game ends immediately and scores are tallied. See the specifc scenario details for in-
struction.
Additionally, if more than half of your units are destroyed, Broken, or have routed off the table,
your general must take a Withdrawal Test. If the test is failed, the game ends immediately and your
opponent immediately claims all objectives (or gains 2 VPs if playing a mission without objectives).
Otherwise, your forces endure their losses and continue the fght.
2. Broken Enemy Units Flee
Broken enemy units must move their maximum movement distance towards the nearest board
edge while avoiding your units by at least 2. If it is impossible for a Broken unit to move its full retreat
distance while avoiding your units, the feeing enemy unit is destroyed.
3. Attempt to Rally Broken Troops
When your soldiers are frightened during the battle, they may decide that your cause is not worth dying
for and choose to Break. However, once removed from immediate danger, these troops may regain their composure
and decide to rejoin the fght.
Take a Morale Test for each of your feeing units. If the Morale Test is passed, the unit imme-
diately rallies and is no longer Broken. If the Moral Test is failed, your unit continues to fee. In your
opponents Rally Phase, it will make the maximum movement possible move toward the nearest table
edge while avoiding non-Broken enemy units by at least 2.
EXAMPLE:
You have a company of spearmen and a company of knights that are Broken and are within 8 of
each other. During your Rally Phase you must try to rally both of these units. You decide to try to rally
the unit of knights frst. You would take a Morale 2 Test but, since there is one friendly Broken unit
within 8, you must take a Morale 3 Test. Despite this disadvantage, your knights manage to pass the
test. They are no longer Broken.
Next, you need to roll to rally your Broken spearmen. Since there are no longer any Broken
friendly units within 8 of the spearmen, they just need to pass a Morale 2 Test. Unfortunately, they
fail and must continue to fee. In your opponents Rally Phase, the spearmen will move their maximum
movement distance directly towards the nearest board edge, avoiding enemy units if possible.
40
5. Place Ambushes
Some scenarios and special rules call for units to be held in ambush. These units are not de-
ployed at the start of the battle but are kept off to the side of the table. They represent hidden troops who
are waiting to surprise their enemies.
At the end of your Rally Phase, you may place any ambushing units that you have. Note, that
you do not have to place ambushing units if you do not want to. Ambushing units may be placed any-
where at least 4 from enemy units and at least 20 away from enemy units in line of sight.
Note that ambushing units may not be placed in your opponents deployment zone. Instead of
deploying from ambush, you may also choose to have any of your ambushing units arrive along one of
your table edges. These units may march on from one of your table edges exactly as if they had arrived
from reserve.
6. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
All units which ran, moved through friendly units, or moved through certain types of terrain
features must receive the appropriate amount of Fatigue, up to the value of their Stamina level. If their
level of Fatigue is equal to their Stamina Value, the unit is Exhausted. Any units that moved through
dangerous terrain or were issued Fatigue beyond their Stamina Value must also take Falter Tests.
4. Roll for Reserves
Some scenarios call for part of your army to be held off the table at the start of the battle. These
units are in reserve and will arrive later in the battle. To roll for reserves, roll one die for each company
you have in reserve that is eligible to arrive. On a roll of a 5 or less, your unit arrives from reserves. It
may march onto the battlefeld from any of your table edges. This movement does not require you to
expend command points. If a unit fails to arrive from reserve, keep rolling for it on subsequent turns.
Provided that the battle doesnt end prematurely, all your reserves should eventually arrive.
Some types of units are faster and will likely arrive from reserve more quickly. Infantry, artillery,
and elephant units may not arrive from reserve during the frst round of the game.
Roads are absolutely essential for facilitating the movement
of your troops. If you want your reserves to arrive in time for
battle, they need some way of getting there quickly. For each
road along your table edge, you may reroll one failed
reserve roll each turn. If this reroll is successful, the cor-
responding unit must march onto the table along one of
these roads. Each company that arrives in this manner
must enter along a different road.
Straighter and better built than medieval paths, Roman roads
are true highways, allowing your troops to mobilize quickly
for battle. If there is a Roman road exiting along one of
your table edges, your reserves arrive on a roll of a 6 or
less.
Roads Roman Roads
41
Movement Phase
T
he Movement Phase is the 2nd phase of the turn. During this phase, the active player may
maneuver his companies across the battlefeld. The Movement Phase is composed of six steps:
1. Declare Resting Companies
2. Select a Company to Move
3. (a) Move Stands in the Company and (b) Attempt Special Maneuvers
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3
5. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
6. Take Break Tests
1. Declare Resting Companies
The frst action that you may take during the Movement Phase is to declare which of your com-
panies will be resting this turn. Any company may rest provided that there are no enemy units within
10. Resting companies may not move, shoot, or initiate combat for any reason during this game turn.
If necessary, place a marker next to resting companies to remember not to activate them in later phases.
Resting Companies remove 2 Fatigue and, if armed with a ranged weapon, receive 2 Ammunition, up
to their maximum allowance. Note that rampaging elephants may not rest.
2. Select a Company to Move
During the Movement Phase you may move each of your companies one at a time. You may
move companies in whichever order you desire and do not have to move any of your companies if you
do not want to. Select one your companies you wish to move. Unless you expend command points,
your company must move forward towards the nearest, non-insignifcant enemy unit, avoiding terrain
where necessary. Companies that begin the Movement Phase engaged in combat may not move. How-
ever, they may perform a Feigned Flight special action.
If you select a cavalry company you may choose to dismount it. Dismounting a cavalry compa-
ny turns it into an infantry company of the corresponding type. For example, if you dismount a unit of
heavy cavalry, they will become a unit of heavy infantry. Cavalry units may only dismount at the start
of their movement turn. They may then move as infantry but count as having already expended 2 of
movement this phase.
3a. Move Stands in the Company
Before moving your selected unit, you must choose whether you want it to march or run.
Marching is the standard movement speed for units in
An Age of Sword and Arrow. Infantry and cavalry have
different marching speeds, noted below as a distance
measured in inches. This is the maximum distance
stands can move when marching.
Infantry march distance: 6
Cavalry march distance: 8
Running represents quicker movement, giving troops
more mobility but also causing them to become tired.
Infantry and cavalry have different running speeds,
noted below as a distance measured in inches. This is
the maximum distance stands can move when running.
Infantry run distance: 10
Cavalry run distance: 16
Marching Running
Any unit which makes a running move may not shoot or assault during this turn and immediately re-
ceives 1 Fatigue. To issue a unit a run order, you must expend a command point.
42
3b. Attempt Special Maneuvers
Special Maneuvers allow your units to complete more complex formations and add a signif-
cant amount of tactical depth.
Reform
Form Square
Feigned Flight
Maintain Coherency
When moving a company, you must keep the
stands in coherency. This means that the stands
must be adjacent to each other. The only excep-
tion to this rule are units of Skirmishers who are
allowed to be up to apart.
Wheeling
Since companies must remain in coherency, even
while moving, the easiest way for a company to
turn is to perform a wheeling maneuver. This is
accomplished by pivoting the company around
one of its front corners. When making this action,
every stand in the company is considered to be
moving as far as the stand on the outer edge (i.e.
the stand which is moving the farthest).
Moving Near the Enemy
Companies may never move within 2 of an ene-
my unit except when charging.
Moving Through Friendly Units
Stands may move through friendly units but
may never end their movement on top of another
stand. Moving through a friendly unit adds a Fa-
tigue to both units.
Moving Backwards and to the Sides
Units may move backwards and to the sides at
speed. This means that for each inch that they
move, they expend 2 worth of movement. Note
that units must be issued a command point to
move without advancing directly towards their
enemies.
Retire
Units that are Exhausted or out of Ammunition
may march away from enemy units toward their
own deployment zone without needing to be is-
sued command points.
A Reform action allows your company to turn on the spot and rearrange its forma-
tion. This can be attempted by any company not engaged in combat. Expend 2 of
movement to have every stand in your company rotate either 90 or 180. This means that your company will be
in approximately the same position but the stands are turned to face in a different direction. To rearrange your
company formation, keep the center point of the company the same while altering the breadth or depth of your
formation. This does not allow you to add stands to your company but rather lets you move the existing stand
within your company relative to each other. Companies must remain in coherency.
Square formation can only be attempted by infantry companies that are not en-
gaged in combat. Expend 1 command point. Your unit may expend 2 of movement
to form a square. Position the stands around their current location so that they form a square or rectangle with each
stand facing the outer edge. Note that no single stand may move more than 4 when moving into this formation.
Companies in square formation cannot move, assault, make assault reactions except for defensive fre, or
pursue enemy units. All four sides of the company are now considered its front facing. In addition, units in square
formation suffer one less Fatigue when harassed by enemies. Units may expend 2 of movement to leave square
formation during their Movement Phase.
Up to 4 stands may be positioned inside a friendly unit square formation and cannot be attacked until the
protecting square is destroyed or fees. This is an ideal way to protect archers and independent generals.
Feigned Flight can only be attempted by companies that begin the Movement Phase
engaged in combat. Expend 3 command points for each unit attempting to take part
in this maneuver. Take a Morale Test and apply it to each of your participating companies. If the Morale Test is
failed, your company immediately Breaks.
Each company that passes its Moral Test may immediately take a free reform action and move up to its
maximum distance away from its engaged enemy.
Your opponent must now issue 3 command points to each of his previously engaged units to allow them
to remain exactly where they are positioned (restrain them). Otherwise, they make a full charge move directly
forward to pursue your feeing units. If this charge move allows them to come into contact with any of your
feeing units, your caught unit is immediately destroyed. Note that enemy units cannot attempt to pursue your
Feigned Flight if they are still engaged in combat.
43
Somewhere in Anatolia, a mounted Turkish force emerges from a forest.
5. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
All units that ran, moved through friendly units, or moved through certain types of terrain
features must receive the appropriate amount of Fatigue, up to the value of their Stamina level. If their
level of Fatigue is equal to their Stamina Value, the unit is Exhausted. Any units which moved through
dangerous terrain or were issued Fatigue beyond their Stamina Value must also take Falter Tests.
6. Take Break Tests
At the end of the phase, any units that were within 8 of a friendly unit or a general that Broke
or was destroyed must take a Break Test, applying any necessary modifers.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3
Select another company to move, then move the stands in that company, attempting Special Maneuvers.
44
Shooting Phase
T
he Shooting Phase is the 3rd phase of the turn. During this phase, both sides may fre their
ranged weapons at their opponents. These attacks are considered to be simultaneous so any
casualties that a unit incurs during this phase will not affect its volume of fre this turn. How-
ever, because it can be confusing for both players to roll their attack dice at the same time, it
is usually best to have the active player complete their entire shooting frst followed by their
opponent. Note that units that fre during the Shooting Phase may not make Charge Reactions this turn.
1. Select a Shooting Company & Targets
2. Determine Line of Sight
3. Roll to Hit
4. Allocate Hits and Roll Saves
5. Mark and Remove Casualties
6. Repeat Steps 1 Through 5
7. Roll for Tides of Battle
8. Add Fatigue & Take Falter Tests
9. Repeat Steps 1 Through 8 for the Inactive Player
10. Take Break Tests
1. Select a Shooting Company & Targets
During the Shooting Phase, each of your companies equipped with ranged weapons may shoot.
Select one company equipped with a ranged weapon that has not yet fred this turn. Units that ran
during the Movement Phase, are currently engaged in combat, or are out of Ammunition may not fre.
Your selected company may now target enemy companies. The targeted companies must be at
least partially within the shooting units front facing. Your company may split its fre between multiple
targets but each stand must fre at a single company. Only your stands that are within range of their
target may fre. Any stands that are out of range may not fre this turn.
Note: you may not shoot at enemy units that are engaged in combat as the risk of hitting your
own troops is just too high!
2. Determine Line of Sight
Next, you must determine line of sight between your shooting stands and their target. If there
are any units or Concealing Terrain positioned directly between your stands and their target, there is no
direct line of sight, making it harder for your stands to hit their target. If you are shooting at a company
that is only partially within Concealing Terrain, they do not beneft from being outside of line of sight.
3. Roll to Hit
The die result needed for your shots to hit their target is equal to the fring stands skill rating.
However, accuracy modifers cumulatively affect the score needed to hit. This is done on an individual
stand basis so some stands may be subject to different modifers. Apply the following modifers:
Moved this Turn: The fring stand moved this turn.
-1
45
-1
-1
Outside of Line of Sight: The target is outside of line of sight.
Target is Composed of Skirmishers or of a Single Stand: The target is composed of Skirmishers or
a single stand (either an Independent Stand or a company that has been reduced to a single stand).
Once you know the score needed for a successful hit, roll a number of attack dice equal to the combined
total of each stands rate of fre, dependent on the weapon they are using. Each die result that is equal
to or less than the score required to hit represents a shot that has successfully impacted its target. This is
referred to as a hit. After your unit has rolled to hit, remove one Ammunition token.
4. Allocate Hits and Roll Saves
After your opponent rolls to hit your unit, you must take saves to see if your soldiers survive.
You must allocate hits starting at your front rank and working your way back. After allocating hits, the
targeted unit must take saves. Each stand must take a Save Test for each hit that they were allocated. If
they fail the save, they are removed as a casualty. Note that stands further back in the unit are automat-
ically brought forward to replace any stands that perish in the front ranks.
EXAMPLE:
Lets imagine your unit of spearmen is 4 stands wide and 2 stands deep, including your general
in the front rank. Unfortunately, your unit suffers 5 hits due to enemy shooting. Because these have to be
applied to the front rank frst, that means that your general and four stands of spearmen will each have
to be allocated a hit.
Bow, Plains Indians ca. 19th century. This relatively simple bow is of similar design to those used by ancient peoples across the globe.
46
-1
+2
5. Mark & Remove Casualties
After rolling saves, you should mark which of your stands were killed and will be removed as
casualties. You may mark a stand by turning it on its side or place some other sort of suitable indicator.
Marking casualties allows the inactive player to fre back even with the stands he lost during this Shoot-
ing Phase. This helps to represent both sides simultaneously shooting at each other. After both players
have resolved their shooting, you must remove your casualties.
7. Roll for Tides of Battle
Any unit which suffered at least 3 hits due to enemy shooting must roll on the Tides of Battle
chart. Roll 2 dice, adding the result together. Then add the following modifers:
for each casualty sustained during this Shooting Phase
unless targeted by Gunpowder Weaponry
The resulting number is your Tides of Battle score. Consult the following chart. Note that units that are
positioned directly in front of Impassable Terrain may not fall back.
Score Result
15+ Hold your ground! Your unit is unaffected
814 Gain a Fatigue Marker
57 Break if Exhausted, otherwise fall back 4 and gain a Fatigue Marker
4 or less Break
8. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
All units that ran, moved through friendly units, or moved through certain types of terrain
features must receive the appropriate amount of Fatigue, up to the value of their Stamina level. If their
level of Fatigue is equal to their Stamina Value, the unit is Exhausted. Any units which moved through
dangerous terrain or were issued Fatigue beyond their Stamina Value must also take Falter Tests.
10. Take Break Tests
At the end of the phase, any units that were within 8 of a friendly unit or general that Broke or
was destroyed must take a Break Test, applying any necessary modifers.
9. Repeat Steps 1 Through 8 for the Inactive Player
Remember that units controlled by the Inactive Player that were destroyed during the Active
Players Shooting Phase can still fre because the combat is viewed to have taken place simultaneously.
6. Repeat Steps 1 Through 5
Select another Shooting Company and Targets, determine Line of Sight, roll to Hit, and allocate
Hits and Roll Saves.
47
Ranged Weapons
R
anged Weapons have special rules and characteristics. Common Ranged Weapons can be
used by both Infantry and Cavalry, while Infantry Ranged Weapons can only be used by In-
fantry. Some Infantry Ranged Weapons are designated as Gunpowder Weapons; enemy units
must take 1 Fatigue Marker for each hit they suffer from Gunpowder Weapons.
Common Ranged Weapons
Bow
Javelin
Light Crossbow
Chu-ko-nu
Crossbow
Handgun
Longbow
Rocket
Pilium
Sling
Bows are RoF 2 weapons with a range of 12 and 3 Ammunition.
Javelins are RoF 2, AP 2 weapons with a range of 6 and 2 Ammunition. Units
equipped with javelins do not suffer a 1 to hit modifer for shooting after moving.
In addition, Skirmishers armed with Javelins may make retreat reactions even on
turns they have already fred.
Light Crossbows are RoF 1, AP 2 weapons with a range of 10 and 3 Ammunition.
Infantry Ranged Weapons
Chu-ko-nu are RoF 4 weapons with a range of 8 and 3 Ammunition. Units equipped
with Chu-ko-nu do not suffer a 1 to hit modifer for shooting after moving.
Crossbows are RoF 1, AP 3 weapons with a range of 12 and 3 Ammunition.
(Gunpowder Weapon) Handguns are RoF 1, AP 4 weapons with a range of 10 and
3 Ammunition. They may not use indirect fre.
Longbows are RoF 3 with a range of 14 and 3 Ammunition.
Pila are RoF 1, AP 2 weapons with a range of 6 and 1 Ammunition. Units equipped
with Pila do not suffer a 1 to hit modifer for shooting after moving and may charge
on turns when they shot.
(Gunpowder Weapon) Rockets are RoF 1, AP 4 weapons with a range of 30 and
2 Ammunition. Units equipped with Rockets may not shoot during the same turn
that they moved.
Slings are RoF 1, AP 1 weapons with a range of 12 and 3 Ammunition.
48
Assault Phase
T
he Assault Phase is the 4th phase of the turn. During the Assault Phase, the active player may
harass and charge his opponents units.
1. Select Assaulting Units & Targets
2. Target Units Respond
3. Move Charging Units into Contact
4. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
5. Take Break Tests
1. Select Assaulting Units & Targets
During the Assault Phase, each of your companies within an enemy unit in its front facing may
make an assault action, provided that your unit is not already engaged in combat and did not run
during the Movement Phase or shoot during the Shooting Phase. Additionally, for your unit to be able
to assault, at least half of its front rank stands must be within assault range of the target.
There are two types of assault actions that your units may make: probes (referred to as harass-
ment) or charges. For each assaulting unit, you must decide whether you want it to harass or charge
this turn. You may assault enemy units that are already engaged in combat provided that your own
units are not in the way.
Harassment
Turn to Face
Retreat
Defensive Fire
Countercharge
Charging
The frst type of assault is a harassment action which
causes the target unit to gain Fatigue. The assaulting
unit remains stationary.
The second type of assault is a charge action. This al-
lows your assaulting unit to move into contact with an
enemy and initiate combat.
2. Target Units Respond
Once your assaulting units have selected their targets, the targeted units now get to respond.
Any target unit that is not already engaged in combat and did not fre in the Shooting Phase this turn
may take 1 of the following actions. Cavalry units may take 2 of the following actions:
Rotate the target unit to face the assaulting enemy unit.
The target unit moves its full charge move directly toward its charging opponent.
Note that if both units are charging/countercharging, then they are both moved
halfway. If this countercharge brings the target unit into contact with its assaulter, it
counts as launching a successful charge and both units are locked in combat.
The target unit may rotate on the spot and move up to its assault distance directly
away from the assaulting unit. If this move brings it into contact with an enemy
unit, it immediately Breaks. If the units retreat brings it out of assault range, the
assaulting unit may select a new target. Cavalry units making a retreat action may
not take another action (e.g. they cannot both retreat and shoot in defensive fre).
The target unit may shoot at the assaulting unit exactly as described in the Shooting
Phase section. Note that the assaulting unit always counts as being within range of
all of the shooting teams, even if it is currently positioned out of range. This rep-
resents the target company opening fre as the assaulting unit approaches it.
49
3. Move Charging Units into Contact
Your charging units must now move into combat with their targets. This movement follows all
the rules regarding normal movement except that you must bring your charging unit into base-to-base
contact with their enemies. Use the assault value of your unit to determine how far it can move. Once
your units have contacted their targets, you may wheel your units so that they are directly adjacent to
their target. They are now considered engaged in combat and will fght during the Combat Phase.
4. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
All units which moved through friendly units or assaulted through certain types of terrain fea-
tures must receive the appropriate amount of Fatigue. Units which made a harassment action suffer 1
Fatigue. In return, their targets suffer a number of Fatigue equivalent to your units Harassment Value.
Units that charged receive 1 Fatigue Marker for each value of the charging units shock statistic. Any
units which assaulted through dangerous types of terrain, or were issued Fatigue after being Exhausted
must take a Falter Test.
5. Take Break Tests
At the end of the phase, any units that suffer losses due to shooting such that they were reduced
to below half strength (have less than their starting number of stands) or were within 8 of a friendly
unit or general that Broke or was destroyed must take a Break Test, applying any necessary modifers.
50
Combat Phase
T
he Combat Phase is the 5th phase of the turn. During the Combat Phase, each combat is
resolved one at a time. The active player gets to select the order in which the combats are
resolved. The Combat Phase is composed of 11 steps:
1. Select a Combat
2. Determine Attack Order
3. Roll to Hit
4. Allocate Hits, Roll Saves, and Remove Casualties
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for Next Set of Attacking Stands
6. Calculate Combat Resolution
7. Loser Rolls for Tides of Battle
8. Victor Consolidates
9. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
10. Repeat Steps 1 Through 9 for the Next Combat
11. Take Break Tests
1. Select a Combat
Select one of the combats to be resolved. This can be any combat that has not already been
resolved this turn. A combat consists of any units that are engaged in combat with each other. This is
usually composed of 2 companies, one from each player. However, some combats can include multiple
units from the same side. This can lead to rather complex scenarios, so make sure you keep track of
which units are involved in which combats.
When lines of units are engaged with each other, the players should pair off units as best as pos-
sible so that they form independent combats. In some situationsfor example, when the opposing sides
are not directly aligned with each otherthese combats can overlap. In these scenarios, it is acceptable
to have units involved in multiple combats but you should note that individual stands may only con-
tribute to one combat or the other. Declare which stands are participating in each combat.
2. Determine Attack Order
After selecting a combat to be resolved, you must determine the Attack Orderthe order in
which the units will make their attacks. This is important because units that attack frst will be able to
infict damage against their opponents before their enemies get a chance to attack back. Charging ele-
phant units attack before all other units while charging cavalry units attack before infantry and artillery
units. Some equipment can change the order of attack. For example, infantry armed with spears attack
at the same time as cavalry. This means that when a unit of spearmen fghts a unit of cavalry, both
companies will roll attack dice simultaneously. Also note that a company can have stands that attack at
different times.
EXAMPLE:
For example, imagine that a unit of spearmen is fghting both a company of charging cavalry
and a company of infantry. Those stands of spearmen that attack the cavalry will roll to hit at the same
time as the cavalry unit. However, the spearmen that are fghting the infantry will roll attack dice at the
same time as their infantry opponents.
51
3. Roll to Hit
Next, the attacking stands roll to hit their opponents. Each stand in your units front rank or that
is adjacent to an enemy stand rolls one die for each of its attacks. Some unit attachments may also roll
to attack, even if they are not adjacent to any enemies. Every attack roll that is equal to or less than your
stands skill rating counts as a successful hit and has the chance to destroy an enemy stand.
While rolling your attack dice, make sure to differentiate between units that are equipped with
different weapons as some weapons are much better at destroying enemies than others. Additionally,
keep track of what hits are made against different enemy units. Since some of your stands may be able
to attack multiple units, always declare which stands will be attacking which enemy units.
4. Allocate Hits, Roll Saves, and Remove Casualties
After rolling hits your opponent must take saves to see if his soldiers survive. You must allocate
hits starting at your front rank and working your way back. For example, lets imagine your unit of
spearmen is 4 stands wide and 2 stands deep, including your general in the front rank. Unfortunately,
your unit suffers 5. Since these have to be applied to the front rank frst, that means that your general
and four stands of spearmen will each have to be allocated a hit.
After allocating hits, the targeted unit must take saves. Each stand must take a Save Test for each
hit that they were allocated. If they fail the save, they are removed as a casualty. Note that stands further
back in the unit are automatically brought forward to replace any stands that perish in the front ranks.
Except in the case of attached generals or unit attachments, it is easier to remove casualties starting from
the back of your units.
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for Next Set of Attacking Stands
Roll to Hit, Allocate Hits, Roll Save, and Revmove Casualties for each other attacking stand.
6. Calculate Combat Resolution
After you have fnished combat, you must now calculate Combat Resolution. Each player adds
up the total number of enemy stands that they killed. Then add the following modifers:
-2
-1
-1
+1
+1
+1
More than of your participating stands are from ranged units.
More than of your participating stands are classifed as light.
At least one of your participating stands is terrifed.
More than of your participating stands are elephants or classifed as heavy.
You have more surviving stands than your opponent. This is increased to +2 if you have at least 3
more surviving stands than your opponent.
Your stands are attacking the enemys fank or rear. This is applied per facing.
52
Whichever player has the higher Combat Resolution value wins the combat. If both players
combat scores are exactly the same, the combat is a draw and will continue into later turns. Note, that if
one players participating units are completely eliminated during a combat he is automatically assumed
to lose combat and Combat Resolution does not need to be calculated.
7. Loser Rolls for Tides of Battle
Units who lose combat must roll on the Tides of Battle chart. Roll 2 dice and add them together.
Then add the following modifer:
-1 for each value by which your unit lost Combat Resolution
The resulting number is your Tides of Battle score. Consult the following chart:
Score Result
15 + Hold your ground! Your unit is unaffected.
11-14 Gain a Fatigue Marker. If in combat, your unit may fall back 4 instead.
8-10 Gain a Fatigue Marker. If in combat, your unit must also fall back 4.
5-7 Break if Exhausted, otherwise fall back 4 and gain a Fatigue Marker.
4 or less Break.
Units that are positioned directly in front of Impassable Terrain may not fall back. If these units
are also engaged in combat, they may not Break for any reason.
Units in square formation may not fall back. If they are forced to fall back, they no longer count
as being in square formation and immediately gain an additional Fatigue Marker.
8. Victor Consolidates
Units that win their combat may rotate such that they are facing their foes. Any stand in the
front rank that is not in base-to-base contact with an enemy stand may wrap around onto the enemys
fank or rear, such that it moves into base-to-base contact. These stands must remain adjacent to stands
in their own unit.
If an enemy unit loses a combat and falls back such that your unit is no longer engaged in com-
bat, your victorious unit must pursue its foes. This is a 4 move bringing your victorious unit back into
contact with its enemies. Both of your units remain locked in combat and will fght in the next turn. You
may prevent your victorious units from pursuing their enemies by expending 3 command points.
If your enemy breaks or is destroyed in combat, your unit may make a consolidation move up to
its assault distance. If this move brings you into contact with a Broken enemy unit, the feeing enemies
are immediately destroyed. This consolidation move may also bring your victorious unit into contact
with an enemy unit that is either not yet engaged in combat or has not yet fought in combat this turn. In
either situation, your victorious unit does not participate in combat later this turn. It may not be target-
ed by close combat attacks nor is it subject to the results of Combat Resolution. However, its presence
adjacent to enemy units still locks those enemies in combat, preventing them from moving until this
new combat has been resolved in future turns.
9. Add Fatigue and Take Falter Tests
All units which fought in combat, moved through friendly units, or moved through certain
types of terrain features must receive the appropriate amount of Fatigue, up to the value of their Stami-
na level. If a units level of Fatigue is equal to its Stamina Value, the unit is Exhausted.
Any Units which moved through dangerous terrain or which recieved Fatigue Markers beyond
Exhaustion must take a Falter Test.
53
Moorish infantry seize a hill.
10. Repeat Steps 1 Through 9 for the Next Combat
Start over at step one for each subsequent combat.
11. Take Break Tests
At the end of the phase, any units that were within 8 of a friendly unit or general that Broke or
was destroyed must take a Break Test, applying any necessary modifers.
54
Combat Weapons
C
ombat Weapons have special rules and characteristics. Common Combat Weapons can be
used by both Infantry and Cavalry; Infantry Combat Weapons can only be used by Infantry;
and Cavalry Combat Weapons can only be used by Cavalry. Dismounted cavalry cannot con-
tinue to use Cavalry Combat Weapons. Some Combat Weapons are designated as Polearm
Weapons; Infantry equipped with Polearms and which are not Exhausted roll to attack at the
same time as cavalry units in their front facing and suffer 1 less Fatigue due to Shock. This means that
charging cavalry will not get to attack frst against ordered Polearm units. Hits from Polearms further
reduce the Natural Save of cavalry by 2, bringing them to a Natural Save value of 3.
Common Combat Weapons
Bludgeon
Mace
Spear
Hand Weapon
Double-handed
Weapon
Fire Lance
Halberd
Pike
Poleaxe
Infantry Combat Weapons
Bludgeons are AP 1. Bludgeons are weapons light enough to be carried in one hand but
heavy enough to break through light armor. They include one-handed axes, clubs, and light
war hammers.
Double-handed weapons are AP 3 but are reduced to AP 2 when used by mounted
cavalry.
All units are armed with hand weapons, even when it is not listed in their profle.
Hand weapons is a broad category which includes everything ranging from a simple club or
hatchet to a pitchfork or short sword.
Maces are AP 2. Maces are strong steel clubs. When used against an armored opponent,
they are easily capable of smashing iron and bone.
(Polearm Weapon) Spears are an ancient weapon that stood the test of time both because
of their effectiveness and because they are relatively easy to produce. Their long reach gives
them a distinct advantage against cavalry.
(Polearm Weapon) Any unit armed with a fre lance is Terrifying.
(Polearm Weapon) Halberds are AP 2 weapons. While a poleax is a deadly weapon, a
halberd is even more lethal.
Pike units automatically have the Phalanx special rule. If they are not Exhausted,
they roll to attack before cavalry units in their front facing. This means that caval-
ry suffer casualties before making their attacks against pikemen. Additionally, hits
from pikes reduce the Natural Save of cavalry by 3, to a Natural Save of 2. A pike is
similar to a spear but much longer. When used together in close order, pikes form a bristling
hedge of steel, absolutely fatal to any knight foolish enough to charge them.
(Polearm Weapon) Poleaxes are AP 1 Weapons. Poleaxes are fearsome weapons, de-
signed to be used against both infantry and cavalry. They consist of a heavy steel axe mount-
ed atop a 4-6 foot wooden haft. Whereas spears and axes can be used for domestic tasks,
poleaxes only serve one purpose: war.
55
Lance
Cavalry Combat Weapons
Lances may only be used on turns in which your unit charged. They are AP 2 and
reduce the Natural Save of their opponents by a value of 2, to a Natural Save of 3.
Additionally, their attacks are resolved before opposing cavalry units. This means
that enemy cavalry units will suffer casualties before being able to attack. The lance
is one of the defning weapons of the medieval battlefeld. A unit of heavy cavalry charging
with crouched lances is nigh unstoppable. The momentum of the galloping horse is concen-
trated in the point of the lance, creating a huge amount of force. When so much force impacts
an opponent, armor is almost useless.
Lugged spear, Italy ca. late 15th to early 16th centuries.
56
Winning the Game
A
t the end of the game, each player may tally up their score to determine a winner. Scores are
measured in Victory Points (VPs). Players receive Victory Points for each of the following:
1 VP for killing the enemy general
2 VP if your opponent was forced to withdrawal
Players also receive VPs if they destroyed more of the enemys army than they lost. Each player
should calculate and compare the total point cost of their units that were destroyed or routed off the
table. The player that destroyed more of his opponents force receives 1 VP for each 100 point difference
in casualties, rounded up. For example, if Player A lost 430 points of troops, and Player B lost 680 points
of troops, Player A would receive an additional 3 VPs.
The player who has the most victory points at the end of the game is the winner. Of course, ex-
cept in tournament settings, players are never forced to calculate their scores. It is often better to ignore
winning and losing in the interest of having fun.
The Most Important Rule
Playing games is all about having a fun time with like-minded friends. Unlike the ancient com-
manders who were imitating, winning and losing these battles has no actual consequences. Its normal
for people to get caught up in competition, but if you can distance yourself from a competitive perspec-
tive you may fnd your games to be much more enjoyable! Taking a relaxed approach allows you to
appreciate every dramatic moment of gameplay, even if its at your own expense.
Always strive to play gracefully, especially if you win. Good sportsmanship is absolutely essen-
tial to maintaining a healthy relationship with your gaming opponents. Remember, the game is really
about the person across from you, not whats on the tabletop!
57
Optional Rules
Instead of using the normal command system, you may substitute this alternative command
structure. Naturally, all participating players must use the same system as it would be too confusing to
play using different rules.
Each player has a pool of command tokens or points, designed to represent your generals ability
to control his troops. This command pool is comprised of two sections, temporary command points and
permanent command points.
Temporary Command Points
Temporary command points are generated each turn. During your Rally Phase, discard any
temporary command points you have left over from the previous round and then roll to see how many
command points you will have this round. Roll a D3 (a 3-sided die, achieved by rolling a D6 and divid-
ing the result by 2, rounding up) for every 500 points of your army, rounding up. For example, if you
have a 750 point army, you would roll 2 D3s. The result of this roll is the number of command dice you
receive this round.
At the beginning of the game, the battle has not yet started in earnest and your general still has
strong control over his troops. However, as the battle progresses, becoming increasingly chaotic, your
generals command will decrease. Every third round, reduce the number of D3s each player rolls by 1,
to a minimum of 1. Thus, using the 750 point army described above, we would roll 2 D3s for command
on our frst 2 turns, and then a single D3 for the remainder of the game.
Permanent Command Points
Your army also has between 1 to 5 permanent command points, corresponding to your generals
Leadership rank. These points may be used during any turn of the game but they do not regenerate.
This means that they can only be used once; once expended, they are gone for the rest of the game.
If your general is destroyed, any remaining permanent command points that you might have are
immediately discarded.
Alternative Command
Movement Orders
You use command points to give orders to your
units, usually during the Movement Phase. You
must expend 1 command point to order a unit
to march, run, form square, or attempt a feigned
fight. If you fail to issue movement orders to your
units, they will remain stationary.
Impetuous
Units with the Impetuous special rule must be is-
sued an additional command to execute their or-
ders unless they are advancing directly toward an
enemy unit.
Subordinate Initiative
The Subordinate Initiative special rule allows units
to march without being issued a command point.
Inspire Valor
The last way to utilize command points is to in-
spire valor in your troops. Whenever one of your
units is about to roll on the Tides of Battle chart,
you may expend 1 command point to increase
their score by 2. Note that the command dice must
be committed before the dice have been rolled:
you cannot retroactively inspire valor.
Other Orders
There are a few other instances in the game which
require you to issue orders to your troops. Units
must be issued a command to make a retreat reac-
tion. Finally, you must expend 2 command points
to prevent your unit from pursuing enemies de-
feated in close combat or making a feigned fight.
58
Generals Traits
Beyond purchasing a rank for your general, you may also purchase individual traits. This choice
helps to provide your general with more individuality and a unique character. These traits are also great
for coming up with good epithets for your leader. Who wouldnt want their army led by Ulric Half-troll,
Brom the Beardless, or Vladislav the Tyrant? You may purchase up to two of the following traits.
-25
-25
+10
+25
+50
+30
Traits Cost
Beardless, Young, Fair-HairedYour general and any unit he joins gain the
Impetuous special rule.
Old, Sick, InfrmYour general suffers a 2 penalty to his Natural Save.
Strong, Bull, BearYour general gains +1 AP to combat attacks.
Half-troll, Giant, MightyYour general and any unit he is attached to
gain +1 Shock.
Bold, DaringYour army may deploy an extra 4 forward.
Brave, Lionhearted, StoutheartedYour general and any company that he is
attached to beneft from +1 Morale.
-50
0
0
-75
-25
-75
-25
+25
Coward, Craven, SpinelessYour general and any company that he is
attached to suffer from 1 Morale and do not recieve a +1 bonus from the
Tides of Battle chart.
Bloodthirsty, FerociousYour general and any company that he is attached
to cause Terror but gain the Impetuous special rule.
Tyrant, CruelYour units suffer 1 Morale but gain +1 Stamina.
Hated, Arrogant, Insane, MadYour units suffer 1 Morale.
Bastard, Lax, LazyYour units suffer 1 Stamina.
Blessed, Lucky, PiousYour general may reroll any failed saves.
Cunning, Wise, CleverInstead of deploying one of your units on the board,
you may choose to hold that unit in ambush. This is in addition to any other
units which may normally be held in ambush.
+50
59
+40
+75
+10
0
+20
+75
+30
-25
+75
+150
+40
-100
-10
-150
Scarred, Tough, MountainYour general gains +1 Natural Save.
Merciless, Slaughterer, ButcherEnemy units suffer 1 Morale.
Beloved, EloquentYour units gain +1 Morale.
Traitor, Usurper, BetrayerEnemy units gain +1 Morale.
Fat, Lame, CrippleYour generals movement rate is reduced by 2.
Sly, Devious, UnderhandedYou may force your opponent to reroll any one
single die result. Contrary to the normal rules, this may be a reroll of a reroll.
Reckless, FoolhardyYour units begin the game with 1 Fatigue. You are always
the attacker except in the Ambush scenario, in which you are the defender.
TerrifyingYour general and any company he is attached to cause Terror.
Legendary, Champion, ConquerorYour units gain +1 Morale and Stamina.
Kinslayer, MurdererYour units suffer 1 Morale and 1 Stamina.
Grizzled, VeteranYour units gain +1 Stamina.
Swift-footedYour general may make close combat attacks before enemy stands.
Accursed, UnluckyYour general must reroll successful saves.
ImplacableYour general and any unit he joins gain the Stubborn special rule.
60
Retainers
Retainers are offcers that grant your general a bonus. They are not units in themselves but rep-
resent important individuals in your generals entourage. You may model retainers onto your generals
base if you desire. Generals with a leadership value of 24 may select one of the following retainers.
Leadership 5 generals may select two retainers.
Artillery Offcer
You may feld an additional unit of artillery.
Cavalry Offcer
You may feld one support company consisting of
cavalry as a core company. Alternatively, you may
feld one rare company consisting of cavalry as a
support company.
Drillmaster
You may reroll one failed roll for reserves each
turn. This is in addition to any rerolls due to roads.
Grizzled Bodyguard
Your generals bodyguard save is increased to a 7.
Infantry Offcer
You may feld one support company consisting
of infantry as a core company. Alternatively, you
may feld one rare company consisting of infantry
as a support company.
Oracle
You may reroll any one die roll per game. Contrary
to normal rules, this may be a reroll of a reroll.
Councilor
After your deployment, you may redeploy one of
your units. Remove it from the table and place it
anywhere within your deployment zone.
61
62
63
Britannia 1066
Introduction
T
he year is 1066 and the British Isles stand poised on the brink of war. Edward the Confessor,
king of England, is dying, leaving no heirs. On his deathbed, Edward invests Harold Godwin-
son, the most powerful English nobleman, as his successor. Yet, Harolds claim to the throne
remains disputed. Edward had previously promised William the Bastard, duke of Normandy,
the throne, an agreement which, according to Norman law, cannot be overturned, even by
the dying kings last wish. Furthermore, only two years before, Harold himself had sworn an oath to
William to remain his vassal. Yet now that William demands his rightful place on the English throne,
Harold refuses. The situation is further confused by a third claim to power: Harald Hardrada, king of
Norway, said to be the most fearsome warrior in the whole world, also sees himself as the legitimate
successor.
All three men are prepared to back up their claim to the throne through force of arms. Harold
Godwinson calls up his thegns, Anglo-Saxon landowners who are obliged to support the king through
military service. Each thegn in turn calls forth the fyrdmen, lesser freemen who may be enlisted during
times of war. Although not professional warriors, they will fght hard to defend their homes and families.
From the Danelaw, the area of eastern England populated by Viking settlers, Harold recruits fearsome
Anglo-Danish huscarls. Armed with massive double-handed axes, these veteran warriors can cleave
through the most heavily armored foes. They are even more dangerous when pared with Anglo-Saxon
Britain c. 1066, shortly before the Norman invasion
thegns in units of mixed heathguard,
as the combined spearmen and axe
men complement each other perfectly.
Across the English Channel,
William also prepares for battle. Mod-
eled on the French feudal system, Nor-
mandy is a state designed for war. As
duke, William calls forth his vassals
to serve in his expedition. The barons
in turn enlist their subjects, many of
whom are veterans of the near con-
stant warfare of the French states. The
serried ranks of infantry include many
hundreds of spearmen, archers, and
even crossbowmen. These Norman
troops are supported by growing con-
tingents of foreign soldiers, whether
allies or mercenaries. Driven by the
possibility of loot and plunder, these
foreign warriors are eager to join Wil-
liams expedition. Despite, the strength
of these soldiers, Williams most pow-
erful asset is his heavy cavalry, un-
doubtedly the best in all of Europe if
not the entire world. These knights,
often referred to as milites, are high-
ly skilled and disciplined. Trained to
use their lances in a crouched position,
64
their fearsome charge is strong enough to break even the most determined of foes.
Far to the north in distant Norway, Harald Hardrada dreams of repeating the conquests of Cnut
the Great, a Danish king who captured England in 1016. To support his expedition, Hardrada promises
his fellow Norsemen a share in the plunder of England. Together with Hardradas reputation as the
worlds most deadly warrior, this is more than enough to convince many northmen to take up arms.
Large numbers of bondi (warrior farmers), archers, and skirmishers enlist. These men are backed up by
professional hirdmen and huscarls, soldiers who make a living out of war. Perhaps the most terrifying
element of the Norse army is the berserkers, crazy men who charge into battle wearing nothing but the
skins of wild animals. Believing that the power of the wild beasts is transmitted through their pelts, the
berserkers have no fear of death and seek only to defeat their foes on the battlefeld.
If the competing claims of these three rulers were not enough, the situation is further compli-
cated by local powers. Wales, Scotland, and Ireland have always struggled to be free from foreign rule.
Now that the isles are descending into chaos, each of these territories is eager to assert their own inter-
ests. With the exception of Scotland, these states are not kingdoms in their own right yet none are will-
ing to suffer under a foreign yoke, whether English or otherwise. They will do all they can to maintain
their independence and disrupt their foes.
The fate of Britain stands in the balance. It is up to you to determine the course of history! Take
up the cause of one of the great powers and exert your claim to the throne of England. Only trial by
battle, the ultimate test of legitimacy, can prove your worth. Alternatively, take on the role of the one of
the local peoples and cast off the English yoke! The sovereign independence of your country can only
be gained through force of arms.
Historical Characters
You may select one of the following historical characters to use as your general, paying the
points cost as listed. These characters may only lead an army of their own nationality.
Anglo-Saxons
Harold Godwinson
Leadership: 4
Strategy: 3
Cost: 325
Traits: Grizzled
Retainers: Drillmaster
Edwin and Morcar
Leadership: 2
Strategy: 1
Cost: 0
Traits: Spineless
Retainers: Infantry Offcer
Normans
William the Bastard
Leadership: 4
Strategy: 4
Cost: 405
Traits: Merciless, Brave
Retainers: Oracle
Scots
Malcolm III
Leadership: 3
Strategy: 4
Cost: 250
Retainers: Councilor
Vikings
Harald Hardrada
Leadership: 3
Strategy: 2
Cost: 265
Traits: Implacable, Grizzled
Retainers: Grizzled
Bodyguard
Welsh
Gruffudd ap Llewelyn
Leadership: 4
Strategy: 3
Cost: 300
Traits: Tyrant, Cunning
Retainers: Councilor
Gruffudd ap Llewelyn, ruler of all of Wales,
was killed in 1064. We have included him here
for players who want to recreate battles that
occurred shortly before the Norman invasion.
Alternatively, his character could be used for a
what if battle in which he is still alive to op-
pose the Norman conquerors.
65
66
The fate of the British Isles lies in your hands! To access the Britannia 1066 campaign rules, army lists,
and historical scenarios, please visit our website: https://sites.google.com/site/anageofswordandarrow.
By professional painter Nicola Berto
nicola.berto1@gmail.com
67
Hobby Guide
Introduction
W
elcome, aspiring painters! In this introductory guide I will explain how to prepare and paint
your miniatures. If you follow the steps described below, you will discover how easy and
enjoyable it is to paint models. Remember that painting is not a racetake all the time you
need. The more time you invest in painting, the better the result!
Tools and Materials
Paint: The frst item you will need is paint. While it is certainly possible to paint miniatures using com-
mon craft-store acrylics, these products are not designed for miniatures and may not apply correctly.
However, they are a good starting point for beginners who are interested in trying out the hobby before
investing too heavily in it.
If you dont mind paying a little more, I suggest that you use special miniatures paints as they
are higher quality and much easier to use. There are a number of excellent brands including: Citadel, P3,
Vallejo, Foundry, Army Painter, and Reaper. Of these, my favorite is Vallejo.
In terms of colors, all you really need to get started are black, white, a metallic silver, yellow,
blue, and red. By mixing these basic paints, you can create any color that you want. The corresponding
Vallejo paints are: 950 Black, 951 White, 863 Gunmetal Grey, 915 Deep Yellow, 930 Dark Blue, and 957
Flat Red. Any paints that are acrylic should be diluted before use. I will explain how to do this later.
Brushes: Brushes are the most important tool for painting! As with paints, you can get by using craft-
store brands but they are not recommended. There are many companies that sell miniatures brushes,
including the manufacturers of the paint brands mentioned above. If you are willing to pay for premi-
um brushes, you have the choice of either synthetic bristles (Nylon, Toray and Taklon) or natural bristles
(Red Sable, Sable Kolinsy). Although signifcantly more expensive, these premium brands are much
higher quality. However, please note that brushes with natural bristles, although great for painting
small details, get easily damaged when used for dry brushing.
Some of the paints and tools you will need
68
Brushes also differ greatly according to size. For 6mm-15mm miniatures, a standard size brush
is the most important. That said, it is best to experiment with brushes of various sizes and brands to see
which you like best.
Whatever brushes you have, it is important to keep them in good shape. If you take good care
of them, they will last much longer before needing to be replaced. First off, never leave your brushes
sitting in water or positioned such that their bristles are bent in an odd manner, as this will permanently
affect their shape. Take care when painting not to use haphazard or heavy brush strokes. Gentle strokes
will apply the paint just as well and keep your brushes safe! Finally, always make sure to thoroughly
clean your brushes in warm, soapy water after each use. You can also purchase brush cleaner/restorer
specifcally made for acrylic paints.
Superglue: Superglue is essential for glueing your miniatures to their bases. Sometimes miniatures will
be sold in several parts, in which case you will have to glue them together. Be careful with these prod-
ucts, as some brands are much better for working with metal than others. Needless to say, take your
time when glueing your models. Superglue has a tendency to get everywhere and will harden almost
instantly to your skin or clothing.
Palette: A palette doesnt need to be anything fancy: you just need something you can mix paints on.
Even an old CD or a plastic plate will work.
Varnish: There are three types of varnish depending on the fnish: gloss, matte, or satin. All of thse
create a protective layer on your painted models to help preserve their color and protect them against
damage. However, be very careful when selecting varnish as some products are very powerful and may
even damage or remove your paint. I recommend using Vallejo brush-on varnish as it is easy to use and
very safe (its also non-toxic).
Washes: Washes are thinned down paints that help give a sense of depth to your models. Washes are
not necessary but help make your miniatures look better. However, if you plan on using 6mm fgures,
the models are too small to really beneft from washes.
Clippers, Files, Manual Drill, and Tweezers: These are standard tools. Although not absolutely neces-
sary, they are useful for cleaning and removing any imperfections on your models. Tweezers are espe-
cially useful for handling small models with precision.
Hobby Knife: A hobby knife is perhaps the most important tool for miniature fgures. Its a great imple-
ment for cleaning your models. Of course, like all sharp objects, make sure to be extremely careful when
handling. For any children interested in the hobby, I would advise that their parents or older siblings
complete all the knife work.
A Place to Work: Of course, you will need some place to work. Any table should be adequate but make
sure to protect it with rags or old clothes. This should keep it from getting accidentally painted!
Good Lighting: When working with little details, the more light the better! Its fne to use any desk
lamp with natural light bulbs. However, make sure not to use lights below 4300 K.
Water Jar: Finally, you need a jar with clean water to rinse your brushes. Make sure not to use anything
you would want to drink out of again. A plastic cup or old pickle jar works great.
69
Preparing Models
to Paint
B
efore you begin painting, you need to prepare your models. One of the key features of this is
removing imperfections in the miniatures. Here is a list of the most common imperfections
and tips on how to deal with them. This preparation work requires a lot of patience and care,
but is very important to make sure your miniatures look good.
Mold Lines: Marks left in the area where the two halves of the mold meet. They can be easily removed
using a simple fle or a hobby knife.
Flash: Thin lines of metals between the junctions of the molds. They are easy to remove with a hobby
knife.
Feeds: Defects or empty areas of the mold. To remove them, you have to use clippers, taking care not to
damage the model. Afterwards, shave the area with a fle.
Vents: These are small metal strips that appear from the molds ventilation channels and are not very
common. To remove them, you need to use clippers or a hobby knife.
Soap Wash
The process of molding always leaves
some residual oil or powder on the miniatures.
Oil or powder is used by the manufacturer to
facilitate the separation of the model from the
mold. However, these residues will prevent
paint from adhering properly to the fgures and
should be removed.
Once you have eliminated any imper-
fections on your models, wash them in warm,
soapy water. Using an old paintbrush or even
a toothbrush, rub the models. This will not only
Before cleaning
Stick-mounted Paint can-mounted
After cleaning
eliminate the molding residues but also remove any residual dust from the cleaning process. Once you
are done washing your fgures, rinse the models thoroughly and let them air-dry (ideally overnight).
Mounting Models
Handling your miniatures while painting can lead to a lot of problems as you might leave fn-
gerprints on the models or even damage or remove parts of their color. Hence, it is very important to
develop a system that allows you to work comfortably and easily access all parts of the model while
avoiding fnger contact with the fgure.
The ideal solution is to ft some sort of support to the
model with a removable adhesive (such as Blue-Tack). This
support could be anything such as an empty paint can, small
plastic cup, wood slab, toothpick or nail. Simply adhere the
support to an area of the model that either does not need to
be painted or can be easily painted later. Once the support is
in place, you should be able to easily rotate and maneuver
your fgure without actually touching the miniature itself.
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Examples of priming
Priming
Applying a primer coat or undercoat to your
models is absolutely essential for a good paint job. A
primer makes painting much easier, provides excel-
lent results, and helps to stabilize color over time.
There are several colors available with the
main three being white, gray and black. White prim-
er provides the best shine on the fnished model.
However, you must be very careful when painting
your fgure as any areas not covered by color are very
visible. Black primer, on the other hand, is especially suitable for beginners since areas not fully covered
by the base coat are not visible at all.
The easiest and fastest way to prime your models is to use spray primer. Spray primer is pro-
duced by many companies, including the brands mentioned in the painting section.
When applying the primer make sure to follow all instructions, especially regarding weather
and temperature conditions. Since primer is unsafe to inhale, it is very important that you spray it in
a well-ventilated area, ideally outside. You will want to spray your miniatures on a cardboard box or
other surface that you dont mind getting paint on. Make sure to hold the spray can the correct distance
from your miniatures. Too close or too far and the primer will not apply correctly. Its always good to
be careful about the amount of primer that goes on the models, as too much could blot out some of the
models details.
Unfortunately, spray primer doesnt always cover all parts of the model. In this case, just paint
the areas not covered with the primer color. Finally, before applying any paint, it is always wise to wait
until the primer has dried completely.
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Painting
Base Coat
Your choice of base colors greatly infuences the fnal result of painting. Spend plenty of time to
get them right. It is also very important to control the amount of color that goes on the model: too much
could hide or cover details while too little may not cover the primer well.
For inexperienced painters I recommend that you start with thin coats of paint, gradually build-
ing them up until you achieve the desired coverage. It is always better to lose some time being careful
than losing detail because too much paint was applied.
Wash
This is also known as an ink wash and it is
a very simple process with excellent results. Only ap-
ply a wash after your miniatures have dried, as oth-
erwise you may cause the paint to run. Load a brush
with the wash solution and apply it to the models,
making sure to prevent it from pooling. Youll imme-
diately notice a greater contrast and that some details
appear more pronounced. Washes can be purchased
ready to use, just like paint, and are available in many
colors and formats. They can be used straight out of
the bottle. An alternative method is to dilute the ink
with 50% water and apply it rather indiscriminately
to your models.
Pro Tips: When using Vallejo
paints, you have to mix well be-
cause the pigment tends to sep-
arate from the liquid. Leave the
paint bottle upside down for a
few minutes and then place the
paint bottle between your palms
and roll vigorously in a rubbing
motion. Vallejo paints have a high
density of pigments so they need
to be diluted: my advice is to use
one part water to one part color. If
you want to obtain a higher con-
trast in the fnished model, add a
bit of black to the base color.
Examples of base coats
Ink wash
Highlight
Highlights, along with washes, are necessary for giving your models added depth in color. Oth-
erwise, models of small scale would appear fat and lacking in shadows. While the wash remains in the
deeper areas of the model, the highlight is applied to the highest protruding surfaces.
The process is simple. Paint the highest areas of your miniatures in lighter shades of their base
colors. This makes the models sculpting more visible and even creates the impression of light effects.
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The easiest way to derive highlight colors is just to add a bit of white, yellow, or khaki to the base color.
Do not mix too many colors, as the fnal result will be gray. Alternatively, paint manufacturers offer a
wide range of colors which can be used as highlights.
If you want to make a more gradual transition between the base color and the highlight, you can
also paint an intermediate color. In this case, mix a smaller amount of white with the base color.
Varnish
If you are using your models for miniature gaming, it is absolutely vital that you apply varnish
to them. Varnish helps to preserve the miniatures color over time and also serves to protect your paint-
ed models from grease as well as small bumps and scratches. There are three main types of varnish:
Gloss: Creates a strong protective coat but makes miniatures appear glossy.
Matte: Although less protective than gloss, it does not alter the appearance of opaque colors.
Satin: A middle ground between gloss and matte, but still makes the models appear glossy.
For optimal protection, frst apply a layer of gloss varnish and then apply a layer of matte var-
nish. You can use either brush or spray versions: the end result is the same using both types. The only
notable difference is that with a brush you can more easily control the amount of varnish that is applied
to the models. The best advice is to experiment until you fnd the technique that suits you.
Finally, remember that it is very important to follow any instructions provided with the varnish,
especially since you dont want to ruin your beautifully painted miniatures! Make sure not to use sprays
if outside temperatures are too high or too low.
Highlights
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Basing
T
he last step to completing your models is to base them. First off, this means that they need
to be mounted on basesfat, identically sized rectangles. In the game An Age of Sword and
Arrow, the base dimensions are 40mm wide by 2040mm deep.
Before you glue your models to their bases, it may be useful to score the bases, as this
will help your miniatures adhere to the platform. Use your hobby knife to cut crisscrossing
Step 1: Ground Texture
The frst step is to add some ground texture to your bases. This procedure uses layers of sand or
putty to bring the surface of the bases to the same level as the feet of the miniatures (usually positioned
on raised bases). This ensures that the base more realistically imitates the dirt and grime of the earths
surface.
There are two possible techniques. The frst involves glueing on sand or small pebbles. Take
normal PVA glue and dilute it with a little water to make it more fuid. Using an old brush or other
implement, evenly coat this mixture over the base. Before the glue dries, sprinkle on your sand or other
gritty material. After waiting a few seconds for the base material to dry, remove the excess material with
a brush or by simply fipping the base and shaking lightly. Repeat this process until you are satisfed
with the way the base looks.
The second technique uses ready-made putty products such as Vallejo pumice gel. You just have
to cover the base with this product using a small spatula or a suitable tool. This method may initially
seem to be a bit laborious and time intensive but I assure you that with practice youll get good results.
Note that there are many types of artists texture pastes from very coarse to very fne grain, each useful
for simulating various types of terrain.
Applying the basing material
Unadorned bases
grooves along the base surface. Of course, you should be very careful when scoring. Be especially wary
of cutting too deeply as this may ruin the base. If you dont want to apply ground texture to your bases,
you might also want to avoid scoring.
Next, you should glue your models to their bases using superglue. The number of miniatures
you attach to your base is totally up to you. Typically the optimal number of miniatures is when the
bases appear neither empty nor overcrowded.
Once your miniatures are attached to their bases, they are technically complete. However, it can
really enhance your models aesthetics to spruce up their bases a little bit. Follow the instructions below
to produce decorative bases simply and quickly.
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Adding extra glue for fock
Step 2: Painting the Bases
When the base material is completely dry you can start to paint it with colors that imitate the
coloration of the ground. Of course, the earths surface comes in many colors so it is up to you to fnd
the ones that seem most realistic.
When painting the bases, its possible to use several layers of different colors. For example,
to paint the bases of the shown models I used three different colors. The frst color I used is a brown
(Vallejo 873 U.S. Field Drab). You should try to cover the entire base but do not worry about the edges
as those will be painted later. The second color I used is a dark yellow (Vallejo 977 Desert Yellow) and it
was applied over the frst color by using a dry brushing technique. For the third color I applied a very
pale yellow (Vallejo 976 Buff) using a dry brushing technique.
Next you will want to paint the edges of the bases. You can paint these the same color as the base
or you can paint them different colors depending on the military unit the miniature is affliated with
(e.g. an entire unit of knights has red base edges). This helps you to easily locate and distinguish the unit
while playing a game.
Step 3: Ground Cover
The fnal step is to simply glue static grass over your painted bases. Dilute some PVA glue with
a little water, letting it roll freely on the bases. After applying the static grass, wait a few seconds and
remove the excess by inverting the base and gently tapping on the bottom. Repeat the process if you
want a denser surface or if the frst attempt does not satisfy you. The bases are now complete and ready
to be used!
Although these example bases are very simple, nothing prevents you from adding other embel-
lishing elements such as logs, wild grass, rocks, bushes and fowers. These products can be found in all
kinds of hobby and model railway shops.
A whole unit of knights, painted, based, and ready to play
Finished base with fock
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76
An article by Arran Slee-Smith
http://rightsidecreative.co.uk
77
What I Wish I Had Known
What I Wish
I Had Known
I
am not saying its a conspiracy and that theres an Illuminati of painters that jealousy hold
onto the secrets of pro painting, protecting it from the world; Im just saying theres a lot of
things that to them seem like common knowledge and often dont get shared with the new
guys. This information isnt impossible to fnd if youre looking for it, but you cant look for
what you dont know exists. So, what are the few gems of knowledge Ive managed to un-
cover from the ancient temple of the hobby pros whilst ducking spears, out running giant boulders and
dodging booby traps?
Natural Hair Paintbrushes vs. Synthetic
I covered this more in-depth in a previous article, but a quality natural hair brush provides better
fow, a sharper tip and does not curl at the end over time. This really was a revelation for me, why was
I not told!
Base Coat Your Minis
This will seem like a no brainer to most painters, everyone picks this one up pretty quickly, but
everyone started out trying to paint directly onto plastic, metal or resin at some point, and, while its
possible to produce a decent painted mini with no base coat, youre really just starting your journey
with a fat tire.
Every single pro painter will start out with a base coat: it provides a surface for the paint to stick to, so
your paint fow is smooth and youre not pushing paint around your mini. Base coats can be applied by
brush, airbrush or the most common method, by spray can.
Preferred base-coat colour varies from person to person. White provides brighter more vibrant
colours but will show through if painting is not perfect. Black helps hide any mistakes and gaps in
hard to reach areas, but dulls colours slightly. Grey is a good balance between the two. You can also go
straight for the base colour of the mini. Personally, I use German Grey for most projects.
Thin Your Paints
You will hear this over and over again, but what does this mean? How much do you thin by?
Whats the ratio? What do you use to thin your paints?
Everyone has a different answer, but the most common one Ive found is to thin your paint to
about the consistency of milk. Most people use regular plain old tap water, some swear by only fltered
water, others swear by acrylic medium or Flow improver. Water will serve most novices well enough.
The important thing to remember is to use something to thin your paints. If you feel your method could
be improved, try some of the advanced products.
I personally just use tap water with a little drop of washing up liquid to break the surface ten-
sion of the water and give better fow once mixed with my paints. Remember its sometimes quicker and
easier to paint multiple thin layers than it is to paint one solid block, a practice which can lead to you
pushing paint around and leaving an uneven coat.
Glazing
Not all secrets are obscured to just novices. Ive been painting for years, and the several times
Ive experimented with advanced techniques like glazing have ended disastrously and honestly left me
pretty down about my abilities as a painter. This has often left me in a place where I feel that my skills
cant progress much further.
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Glazing is still something I know nothing about. This is my white whale, my holy grail. I have
yet to fnd a tutorial that gives me that eureka moment, and perhaps I never will. If anyone wants to
give me the miracle answer to this problem, Id love you forever.
Wet Pallet
This was another little gem I discovered only recently. Up until then I had been using Pringle
lids, ceramic tiles, Tupperware boxes, anything and everything to mix and hold my paint while I paint-
ed my minis. The problem is paint dries quickly, and when youre painting up platoons of men and
tanks you can be painting for some time.
The Wet Pallet works in such a way that your paint is fed a constant supply of moisture and can
last in your pallet for literally months. You will need to change the water after a while so it doesnt go
stagnant, but keep your water fresh and your mixed paint will last as long as you need it to.
I found this little bit of wisdom on Minutiae of War through the WWPD Network page, and its
changed my painting experience entirely. Its essentially a bit of blister foam/paper towel/sponge in the
bottom of a Tupperware box with a sealable lid, with water saturating the foam. It then has a layer of
grease-proof paper over the top of it that you use as your pallet surface. Store it with its lid on and your
paint will last a long, long time.
2B Pencil
I hate painting metallics; they behave differently to normal paint, turn to goo, and thinning them
with water tends to break them up. Although there are ways to prevent this, (you can use thinners like
the ones mentioned previously) I like to avoid metallic paints entirely when I can. When it comes to
battle damage on my tanks or gun barrels on my guys, I like to paint the barrel German Grey and go
over it with a soft graphite pencil. The result is something similar to GW Boltgun Metal, but much less
hassle and twice as fast. This doesnt work well for large areas, for instance armour plating on Imperial
Roman Legionnaires, and only works for silver metals like steel or iron, but its great for small areas of
battled damaged tanks.
Dont Highlight with White
For most of us it seems logical that to lighten a colour you just add white right? The problem
is that it doesnt work with paint, as your nice blood red Blood Angels army just turned pink! Im sure
theres some colour theory in here but I wont go into it. Suffce it to say that yellow highlights both red
and green well, and cyan works for blue.
Near Black
Another trap people fall in is highlighting black with white. Because black is quite literally the
absence of colour, it is a diffcult base colour to shade and highlight. The best solution to this is to use
near black. Near black, as its name suggests, is not quite black. This is achieved by adding in a bit of
the highlight colour to a black base coat, making it slightly tinted. This tint helps ease the transition to
highlights.
For instance, when painting GW Necrons all those years ago, my base coat was black with green
highlights. Id add a little bit of dark angels green to the black to tint it in the right direction and most
people wouldnt notice that it wasnt quite black. Id then highlight with progressively brighter shades
of green through to nearly yellow.
Personally, I like to highlight black with blue, which makes German Grey a perfect substitute for
a black base-coat. Its slightly blue tint makes it easy to highlight and a dark wash can still add a little
bit of depth to the recesses. Of course, the colour that you tint the model depends on the effect you are
trying to achieve. You might want to paint a navy blue tint for a nobleman or lord but a brown tint for
commoners or an assassin.
Conclusion
So these are the little bits of information that Ive gleamed from the various corners of the world
in search of the painting holy grail. I hope these tips and tricks help you on your painting odyssey.
79
Select
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