Extreme How-To Summer 2014

The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement
Gutters & Downspouts for the DIYer

Summer Digital 2014 www.extremehowto.com
INTERIOR WINDOW TRIM
REPLACE A CEILING FIXTURE
PLUS:
OUTDOORS IN FOCUS:
PATIOS & DECKS
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CONTENTS
Summer 2014
F E A T U R E S
20 Deck Framing Gone Wild
Applying the Cantilever Concept
to Your Deck Designs
30 Stamped with Style
Build a Patio with Decorative Concrete
42 Gutters & Downspouts
for the DIYer
Install it Yourself to Protect Your
Home and Save on Labor Costs
4 www.extremehowto.com
30
DE PART ME NTS
Q & A
Skill Savvy
Tiling Over Concrete
Project Next
Adding a PVC Jamb Extension
Quick Fix
Replace a Ceiling Fixture
Hot Products
55
20
cover photo ping han / Dollar Photo Club
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10
16
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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own
How-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.com
and click on Ask Our Experts.
Got
a
?
QA
&
Q:Whats the best way to remove burn marks left by a router?
A:
Sometimes when cutting across wood grain at a low feed rate, a router bit can burn the wood, leaving
unsightly dark marks. The easiest way to remove them is to get a new bit and carefully make one more
pass with the router (a cut as shallow as 1/64 in. should remove the marks). Sanding with a fine-grit abrasive
is another option, but sanding a routed profile can be difficult. Youll find it easier to sand out burn marks if you
apply mineral spirits to the burn before sanding. After a few minutes the spirits will penetrate the glazed area,
and the marks should be easy to sand off.
Q:
I am working on a new deck and would like to cover up a 6x6 post with cedar. What is the best way
to get this to look seamless, like a solid cedar post?
A:
Pick out four of the straightest and flattest 1x10 cedar boards you can find. Use a table saw to rip 45-
degree outside miters along the edges of each board. Install the four sides wrapping the post, making
sure the miter joints line up at the edge. Glue and finish-nail the corners very carefully. Run the edge of a nail
set along the seams to close the wood grain. Seal any open cracks that may turn up using caulk colored to
match the finish.
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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own
How-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.com
and click on Ask Our Experts.
Got
a
?
QA
&
Q:
We hired an exterminator to kill cockroaches in our house, and the service seems to have worked
inside. The problem is all the cockroaches left outdoors. At night, you can see dozens of them scurrying
around the driveway. I assume theyre coming from the city sewer system. How can I kill the roaches outside?
A:
Try using boric acid, which you can pick up in the pest control section of most drug stores. Apply the pow-
der to the problem areas according to the manufacturers instructions. Boric acid is deadly poison to pests
like roaches and other insects, but safe for people and pets, generally considered to be no more toxic than table
salt. Boric acid powder is usually applied to cracks and crevices in a thin layer where insects travel. When the
insect crawls over the treated area, their legs become coated in the powder, which is then absorbed into their
body and poisons the insect. Reapply the product after it rains. It may take a couple of weeks of reapplication to
completely eliminate the pest problem.
Q:Wed like to replace an old vinyl floor with tile. The flooring currently has a vinyl base strip that is firmly
attached to the wall. Is there an easy way to remove this without tearing up the drywall behind the base?
A:
To minimize the repair work on the drywall surface, use a heat gun over the base strip to warm the
adhesive and loosen its grip on the vinyl. In a pinch, you could potentially use a hair dryer to similar
effect. As the adhesive loosens, pull away the base strip. Take the extra time to reheat the exposed adhesive
and scrape it away from the face of the drywall with a putty knife. This should leave a smooth surface to easily
reinstall new base trim once the flooring has been installed.
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SKILL SAVVY
H
andmade clay tiles or stone
tiles with naturally split sur-
faces look great in a garden
setting. But accommodating the
size variation requires a slightly
different installation process than
youd use for the factory-made
tiles that are more common
indoors. This project originally
appeared in Walks, Walls & Patio
Floors by Jeanne Huber, published
in 2008 by Sunset Books. The
patio features handmade saltillo
tiles, which are popular where win-
ters are warm. They are too porous
to survive a freezing winter. The
procedure also applies to stone
tile with slightly irregular dimen-
sions. These saltillos were glazed
at the factory. If you are using
unglazed saltillos or porous stone,
apply a sealer before you install
them to prevent mortar stains.
Sort the tiles before you begin.
Set aside warped pieces with a
slight hump in the center until you
have mortar prepared and can
spread a little, like frosting, to
make the backs flat. If thickness
varies significantly, sort out the
thicker pieces and include at least
one in each section you set so
that the paving turns out even.
Before tiling a concrete slab, be
sure it is stable. Deep cracks are
likely to show up in your tiled sur-
face, even if you patch first. Run
a straightedge along the surface
and knock down any protrusions
with a hammer and chisel or a
grinder. Patch large holes, clean
the concrete, let it dry, then paint
the surface with concrete bonding
adhesive.
Lay out the project. Check the
slab to make sure corners are
square. If not, draw two lines at a
90-degree angle to each other and
make all your measurements from
them. Do a test run by placing tiles
to make a section about 3 feet
square. Space them to allow grout
lines of a width you want. Measure
the width of the tiles plus one
extra grout line. This is the size
of the squares in which the tiles
should be laid. Using a tape meas-
ure and chalk line, mark lines in
both directions to produce a grid
of squares.
Trowel on the mortar. Mix a
batch of latex-reinforced mortar so
it is just stiff enough to cling for a
second or two to a trowel held ver-
tically. Using a notched trowel of
the size recommended by the tile
dealer, spread the mortar inside
one of the squares. First spread a
thick layer using the flat side of
the trowel. Then use the notched
side to comb the mortar. Dont
scrape down to the concrete.
Tiling Over Concrete
Tile a concrete patio for a decorative touch to your outdoor space.
By Jeanne Huber | Photos courtesy of Wayne Cable
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Place and align the tiles. Fill
the square with tiles, leaving
gaps for grout lines. Set the tiles
straight down into the mortar;
dont slide them or press down
on them. Stand up and examine
the tiles from several angles to
be sure the grout lines are as
consistent and straight as
possible.
Bed the tiles and check
adhesion. Place a block of wood
or a piece of plywood across
several tiles and gently tap it
to seat the pieces evenly. Every
so often, pick up a tile to make
sure the mortar is sticking to at
least three-quarters of the back
surface. If its not, back-butter
each tile with a thin layer of
mortar before setting it in the
troweled mortar.
Cut tiles to fit. At edges, you
may need to trim some pieces.
Cut tiles using a rented wet
saw, or a grinder or circular saw
equipped with a masonry cutt-
ing blade or a diamond blade.
Some tiles are easier to cut
with a snap cutter. Ask your
tile dealer which cutting tool
to use.
Grout and clean. Wait about 2
days for the mortar to harden. Mix
a batch of latex-reinforced sanded
grout just to the point that it does
not pour readily. If joints are 38
inch or wider, apply the grout with
SKILL SAVVY
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a mortar bag and shape the joints
with a brick tool or the rounded
end of a trowel handle.
If joints are narrow, hold a lami-
nated grout float nearly flat and
push grout between the tiles in at
least two directions. When the
joints in an area are full, tilt the
float up and use it to squeegee
away most of the excess grout.
Drag a wet towel over the area,
then wipe lightly with a damp
sponge, rinsed often. Once the
grout starts to stiffen, use the
sponge to shape the surface to
a consistent depth. Allow the
surface to dry until a white haze
appears, then buff it away with
a dry cloth. Mist the grout with
water until damp and cover it
with plastic for several days,
making sure it stays damp.
Editors Note: Excerpted by
permission of Sunset Publishing
Corporation from Walks, Walls
& Patio Floors by Jeanne Huber
and the editors of Sunset Books,
published in 2008 by Sunset Books.
Visit www.oxmoorhouse.com.
NEW IDEAS FOR
OUTDOOR LIVING
Patio & Stone, A Sunset
Design Guide is a handsomely
photographed book includes
the latest ideas on design and
materials, along with essential
landscaping advice from indus-
try professionals. Design an
inviting patio with decorative
features such as flagstone
paths and stone walls. Discover
a wealth of great landscaping
materials, from natural stone
to concrete pavers, brick and
tile. Plus, you can see advanced
views of the spaces you are
planning with the 3D interac-
tive design software that is
included with the book. For
more information, visit
www.oxmoorhouse.com.
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SKILL SAVVY
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PROJECT NEXT
W
ant a straighter and more
maintenance-free window
jamb? Then follow the
steps taken by contractor Steve
Roth.
When I went to renovate an
1800s house, I found that the old
walls were not level, says Roth.
They were so imperfect that I
had to frame in interior walls to
straighten them. Creating a thick-
er, more even wall solved one
problem, but presented a new
dilemma: how do I frame out the
interior of the windows?
Roth found his solution by creat-
ing jamb extensions made of PVC.
Along with being maintenance
free, the PVC is resistant to mois-
ture and adds a more complete
finished look to the interior of the
window.
The jamb extender covers the
framing material and what youre
attaching the casing to, says
Roth. This simple box frame
extends the window framing out to
the interior wall surface and adds
to the overall design of the room.
Roth chose PVC instead of wood
for the jamb extension for several
reasons. These days its difficult
to find clear pine thats not warped
or knotted, says Roth. The PVC I
purchased from Fypon was per-
fect. Each piece is 100 percent
usable with no knots, splits or
warping. The 1-inch thickness of
the PVC board made it easier to
nail the casing at the final step.
And, most importantly, the PVC
complements the vinyl on the
frames window.
Moisture isnt a problem with
PVC either. Some contractors take
drywall and simply return it to the
window. Thats a plain look, and
the drywall can soak up moisture,
making it a problem sometimes in
less than a year. Not so with the
PVC it resists condensation and
has an extensive maintenance-
free lifespan.
Throughout the house, Roth
created a variety of PVC jamb
extenderssome reaching up to
12 inches in depth. To create the
PVC jamb extensions, Roth fol-
lowed several simple steps.
Step 1Clean up the area
where the jamb extender will be
installed and prep out the space.
Step 2Measure the opening
space to determine the width of
the jamb extension needed. Cut
the boards on a table saw to cre-
Adding a PVC Jamb Extension
Alternative Idea for Interior Window Trim
By Kathy Ziprik
ProjectNextPVC_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:23 PM Page 16
www.arkestairs.com
SPIRAL STAIRS
AND MODULAR
STAIR CASE KITS
The OAK 70.XTRA
The Oak 70.XTRA is an adjustable premier series spiral staircase that
features solid Oak wooden stair treads and landing to complement
and add style to any interior living space. Surrounding the full length
of the staircase, the horizontal balusters and railing design is visually
unique when compared to the traditional vertical baluster design of
most stairs. The staircase can be easily installed by the homeowner
in a single day using common household tools. The Oak 70.XTRA
is available in 2 diameter sizes and is available in 2 choices of
colorHi-Gloss Black and Hi-Gloss White.
Standard kit includes 12 oak wood stair treads, a landing, a
complete handrail, and all necessary hardware and connectors.
Diameters available include a 5 ft. 3 in. model and a 4 ft. 3 in. model.
The height range for the standard kit is adjustable from 8 ft. 3 in.
to 10 ft. 2 7/8 in. and with additional components, can be
installed to a maximum height of 11 ft. 9 5/16 in.
Powder coat finished painted in either Hi-Gloss Black or Hi-Gloss White.
Can be installed in a clockwise or counterclockwise rotation.
Stair treads and landing are made of solid Oak wood with a natural stain and a polyurethane protective coating.
Balcony rail kits are available in matching color and horizontal baluster and railing design.
Handrail is manufactured from an aluminum core surrounded by a soft PVC cover to allow the handrail to be curved at the
time of installation to accommodate the radius of the staircase.
Rise between stair treads is adjustable from 8 3/8 in. to 9 in.
Interior installation only.
A complete installation guide is included in all kits and an installation video is available upon request.
Homeowner should consult with local building department concerning building codes prior to purchase.
AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT THE USA, ARKE
SPIRAL AND MODULAR STAIRCASE KITS
CAN BE BUILT IN A DAY BY THE AVERAGE
DO-IT-YOURSELF HOME ENTHUSIAST.
3
Arke4_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:48 PM Page 17
ate the box. For this project, the
wall space was 3-1/2 inches in
depth. Roth recommends cutting
the boards and assembling the
unit on a workbench instead of
nailing directly to the window in
order to control the length, width
and squareness of the jamb
extender.
Step 3Round-over the sharp
edges on the inside corner of the
constructed box with a router.
Step 4Once the box is
constructed, attach the Fypon
PVC casing to the box area.
Step 5Fit the jamb extender
into the opening to test for accura-
cy of fit. The jamb extender should
fill in the entire area and extend
out from the window framing to lie
flush with the interior wall surface.
Step 6Ensure that the jamb
extender is plumb and level in the
opening. Nail through the jamb
extender into the framing. Finally,
nail through the PVC casing like a
nail flange into the wall. Finish by
filling in nail holes. Now you have
a secure jamb extension that
defies moisture while adding a
touch of class to the room.
Editors Note: For more
information on PVC board
and trim products, visit
www.fypon.com or call
1-800-446-3040.
PROJECT NEXT
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www.extremehowto.com 21
Applying the
Cantilever
Concept to Your
Deck Designs
DeckFramingFeature_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:20 PM Page 21
ending points of your joists do
not need to be dialed in either.
Another big advantage of the
cantilever is that you can hide
footings, block and post back
under the deck and they wont
interfere with trim or skirting.
When I lay out the blocks for
a post-and-beam floor system,
whether its for a shed or a deck,
I purposefully put the rows of
blocks about one foot inside the
finished structure in both direc-
tions. I reach the outside of the
deck with cantilevered beams in
one direction and cantilevered
joists in the other direction.
One of the big advantages to
this system of cantilevering is that
the blocks do not need to be laid
out precisely, other than just being
in line with the beams. So the post
and beam layout can be relatively
square, and then as the joists get
put in position they can be aligned
and squared more precisely.
In addition to the concept of
cantilever, is the idea of running
material wild until you make your
final cut. Let it run wild is a con-
struction expression that simply
means to leave a little extra mate-
rial hanging out there to be cut off
later. You dont have to make the
final decision on the exact deck
dimensions until you see how
everything is coming together. You
can trim beams when you are
done with the joist layout. You can
trim joists when the deck boards
Another thing I like to put off in
deck construction is screwing
down the deck boards, especially
when youre building a deck in the
summer heat and humidity. Put in
just enough screws to hold deck
boards in position and add the
rest of the screws in the cool of
the evening. You can pick up
speed driving deck screws by
starting them with a hammer.
You can save time by cutting the
posts for your post-and-beam sys-
tem from a cut list. Simply mark
the length of each post as its cut
to match it up with the numbers
that you wrote on the pyramid
blocks as you were getting the
measurements.
With the pyramid blocks firmly
set into the ground and the posts
cut and in position, the layout is
ready for the beam.
With all of the joists toe-nailed in position, we then added
hurricane ties to connect the joists to the beams.
SCREW IT LATER
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are nearly completed and you can
trim deck boards after they are
installed. Chalk lines and saw
guides help make straight cuts
on the ends of the beams, the
joists and the deck boards.
Heres how we used cantilevers
to build the second level of our
low deck:
CANTILEVERS RUN WILD
My friend Dave usually scratches
out his material lists on jobsite
stationary (a scrap of wood) on his
way to the lumber yard while driv-
ing, drinking coffee and talking on
the cell phone. A horn may sound
as he drifts into someone elses
lane, which Dave considers rude.
Hey, Im designing a deck here!
If this sounds a bit dangerous,
most home-improvement stores
and lumber yards can give you
some help on whats needed for
a standard deck layout.
For this project I figured we
needed about three 14-foot
beams, eight pyramid blocks (one
of the beams was over an old
slab), about ten joists, a box of
hurricane ties, an assortment of
galvanized nails and a couple
more boxes of deck screws. We
already had the decking boards on
hand. We started by spacing out
the beams on the ground at the
approximate spacing that we
needed, keeping in mind that we
wanted to keep the beams inside
the deck structure about a foot
from where we expected the final
decking to be.
In the case of this particular
section of deck, the elevation was
determined by making a full step
up from the lower section of deck
we had built earlier. We decided
that one full-width deck board
would make a good riser and a
good step height going up to the
next level of deck. We wanted the
second level of decking to be per-
pendicular to the first level, so we
had to make sure that the beams
were running perpendicular to the
first level of decking. Building this
way, the joists would run parallel
to the first deck boards, and in
turn the deck boards for the next
level up would be perpendicular to
the first level of decking. Got it?
We spaced the pyramid blocks
evenly along each of the beams,
keeping in mind again that we
wanted to stay back from the out-
side edge of the deck to allow the
beam to cantilever out beyond the
final position of the edge of the
structure. With the pyramid blocks
in place, we cut the sod around
them and got the base of the
blocks sitting on solid ground, nice
and flat and level. [Note: Some
Notice that the beams are cantilevered out past the outside pyramid
blocks and that the joists cantilever out past the outside support beams.
Snapping a chalk line across the
joists gives a straight reference
point to make sure the decking
boards stay straight.
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areas require permits to build
decks, the decks may need to
meet specific codes, and its con-
struction may require inspection.
Research what the requirements
are in your area.]
We propped the beams tem-
porarily in place above the blocks
and leveled them with scraps of
lumber, old tires, bags of Quikrete
and whatever else we had handy.
We measured from the bottom of
each beam to the top of each
block to get the heights of the
posts. We marked each block
with this dimension then cut all
the posts, marking each post as
it was cut so we could match
each post to its block.
We ignored the manufacturers
recommendations for joist spac-
ing. Our testing found it was too
flexible for their recommended
spacing. We used more joists
and placed them closer together
than the manufacturers recom-
mendation.
We used a string line to align
the joist ends where they joined
the lower deck level but let them
run wild, beyond the edge of the
deck, at the other end.
After crowning the joists, put-
ting them on the layout marks
and toenailing them into place,
we then added hurricane ties
to connect the joists to the
beams.
The layout of the first joist, the
one closest to the house, was
purposefully kept a couple of
inches inside the proposed edge
of the finished deck to allow us
flexibility. In other words, we
planned to have a little cantilever
on the decking boards them-
selves.
To get started on the decking
we put the first board in position,
and then measured from the end
of the joist to the outside edge of
the board. We wanted the deck
board to overhang 1 and 7/16
inches so we measured to the
joist, set the deck board, put a
screw in it at one end, then went
to the other end and did the
same thing.
When setting the overhang for
the first deck board on the upper
level, we allowed for the thick-
ness of the step riser/rim joist,
plus about a 1/4 overhang.
A new product called Fast2K comes in a small book-sized pouch but replaces 50 lbs. of concrete for setting deck
and fence posts. Having built both the deck and fence around my house, I know too well the sweaty, hard work
involved with mixing concrete and setting a post, and it doesnt get any more fun when you have dozens more to go.
With the new Fast2K product, just break the seal on the two-part pouch, mix for thirty seconds, position the post and
then pour the product around the bottom. I watched a demonstration and was amazed at how the product expanded
within two minutes to completely fill the space around the post, setting it securely. Check out www.Fast2K.com.
SET POSTS SUPER FAST
TRIM IT LATER
We waited to install the fascia board/rim joist (skirting on a higher deck) until
the rail system was finished to allow access to the post areas under the deck.
To use the chalk line for straight deck boards, first start a screw in the board. Then measure from the board to
the chalk mark and move the board as needed so the distance is the same at the middle and ends of the deck
board. Then drive the screw home.
We made a mark 32 inches
on the joist at each edge of the
deck and snapped a chalk line
between those two marks. This
gave us a reference point to make
sure the deck boards were straight
as we proceeded by simply match-
ing the measurements to the
chalk marks on a couple of the
joists out in the middle of the lay-
out. This is much easier than try-
ing to hover a string line above the
first deck board to get it straight.
After the first deck board is on
straight, you can hook your tape to
the outside edge of the deck and
check the boards periodically as
the decking is installed.
As we were getting to the edge
of the deck near the ends of the
cantilevered joists, it was time to
determine exactly where the joists
needed to be cut. We did this by
putting the last deck board in
place, marking the outside edge at
each end, making another mark
inside that, which is closer to the
deck by the thickness of a deck
board that we would later use as
a rim joist/trim piece, plus a little
reveal.
We then tackled trimming the
deck boards, which we let run
wild. We first had to finish the
We snapped a chalk line across
the top of the joist to be cut and
used a Speed Square to project
the mark down the face of the
joist before cutting it off with a
circular saw.
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outside board on the lower deck, and then it was a
matter of simply moving that layout to the upper deck
and snapping a chalk line
for the cut location.
Next time you plan a deck or shed floor, consider
using cantilevers in your design. Not only can you hide
blocks and posts under the deck, you can also put
off layout decisions
until later in the
process. Works
for me.
LEFT HAND, RIGHT BRAIN
You may have noticed that the circular saws you own either have the blade on
the left or the right side of the saw. You probably have a preference for which
setup you like best, but dont forget about the saw that has the blade on the
other side for those tight cuts when left doesnt work right.
After snapping a chalk line across the deck boards
to indicate where they were to be cut, we used a
straight edge board against some sixteen penny
nails, parallel with the chalk line at a distance that
equals the distance from the edge of the saw base
to the blade.
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Feeney2FP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:51 PM Page 29
Build a
Patio with
Decorative
Concrete
By Monte Burch
WITH STYLE
ConcreteFeature_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:47 PM Page 30

C
oncrete is one of mankinds most useful inventions, and also one of the oldest. Highways,
sidewalks, bridges, buildings, all are made of this utilitarian and often unglamorous product.
Concrete, however, doesnt have to be mundane. With a variety of techniques concrete can
be made extremely decorative. Stained and stamped with a variety of patterns, concrete can look
like bricks, cobblestone, flagstone, even wood, or a variety of unusual artistic patterns. Stained and
stamped concrete can turn a ho-hum slab into a beautiful patio or sidewalk. It is also a great way
of redoing an old, deteriorated walk or patiosimply pour fresh concrete over the old.
PREP THE SITE
The first step, as in any concrete
project, is proper preparation of
the site and building a form to
hold the concrete in the desired
shape. The sub-grade must be uni-
formly graded and evenly compact-
ed. If pouring in hot weather, it is
recommended to soak the ground
prior to the pour. The sub-base
material, however, must be dry
at the time of the pour.
If pouring a patio or walk, the
mix and reinforcing should meet
the strengths of the project needs
and be suitable for external
paving. The formwork should be
set to establish proper drainage
of the area and to be used for
screeding and layout. A minimum
of 2-percent slope should be
allowed for exterior paving sec-
tions. All grade pins should be
set below grade to prevent inter-
fering with the texturing process.
All formwork should be properly
squared, and also squared to any
existing structures. This is espe-
cially important if using a pat-
terned texturing tool.
COLORFUL CONCRETE
Two methods are used for
coloring concrete, a spread-on
color hardener or an integral
colorant. Both can be used with
ready-mixed or bagged materials.
Color hardener has some dust and
health hazards in application due
to the content of the silica sand
involved. The technique shown
involves integral coloring products
from Matcrete (www.Matcrete.com).
The Matcrete Integral Color is
a pre-measured admixture for
coloring ready-mixed concrete dur-
ing batching. The pigments are
lime-proof, pure synthetic mineral
oxides for all concrete flat-work
installations, interior floors and
exterior hardscapes. The system
also works for precast, tilt-up
and cast-in-place applications.
Packaged in 25-pound disintegrat-
ing bags, the product is available
in a wide range of colors. The
dosage rate found with the color
swatch is the amount of color
needed to tint 94 pounds of con-
crete. Typical dosage rates range
from 1/4 to 4 pounds of Matcrete
Integral Color per sack (94 pounds
of cement). Exceeding 10-percent
color content can have an adverse
affect on the strength of the con-
crete. If a more vibrant color is
desired, consider using Matcrete
Dustone Color Hardener which,
due to its application, is not limit-
ed to these same restrictions
and in fact can increase surface
strength. But you must follow all
safety regulations.
Integral Color is added to the
concrete in the mixing drum. If
mixed at the plant, the drum must
be cleaned, and approximately
two-thirds of the mix water and
one-half of the aggregates needed
should be added to the drum. Do
not use slurry water or reclaimed
aggregates. Add the correct
amount of Matcrete Integral Color
to the drum and mix at full charg-
ing speed for three to five minutes
or until all bags break apart and
the pigment is distributed evenly.
As with any concrete project, the
proper form must be constructed
to hold the concrete until it sets.
For an exterior project, the form
must have a grade of at least 2
percent to allow for water runoff.
If using pattern stamps and a
square or rectangular pour, make
sure the form is assembled
square.
The form can, however, incorpo-
rate rounded or irregular edges,
with the stamps simply extending
past the form boards.
WITH STYLE
ConcrobiumFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:49 PM Page 33
Add the balance of the ingredients
(water, aggregates, cement and
admixtures) and mix at full charg-
ing speed for 8 to 10 minutes (80
to 100 revolutions). It is the ready-
mix suppliers responsibility to
make sure the bags have fully dis-
integrated. Note: A ready-mix com-
pany will probably charge a small
fee for extra cleaning of the drum.
If coloring the concrete at the
jobsite, open the bag and pour the
pigment directly into the drum,
then discard the bag. Again mix
thoroughly before distribution. Mix
color and pre-bagged concrete
according to the manufacturers
specific instructions.
TEXTURE OPTIONS
The colored concrete can be fin-
ished in a variety of means. Use a
bull float after striking off the slab.
For most finishes, use wood bull
floats and derbies, not magne-
sium. Wait for the bleed water
sheen to disappear before you
start floating and troweling. Do not
over-trowel or start troweling late
as this leads to burns and dark
spots.
Following are some of the
various textures that can be used
with Matcrete Integral Color:
Broomed: Made by pulling
special brooms across stiff, freshly
floated or troweled concrete sur-
face. For variety, broomed
The simplest method of coloring
the concrete is with and integral
coloring agent, such as Matcrete
Integral Color. The coloring agent
can be mixed at the job site in
ready-mix deliveries, or in small
batches using bagged concrete.
Due to a wet area, as well as a
sewer drain line near the pour, the
concrete was delivered to the form
from the ready-mix truck with a
tractor bucket.
The colored concrete is poured in the form and shoveled or pulled into
all portions of the form.
WITH STYLE
texture can be heavy or light,
or in straight or wavy lines.
Exposed Aggregate: Aggregate
is exposed by seeding the fresh
concrete with aggregate which can
be colored, sparkling, fractured or
smooth. Before the concrete sets
thoroughly, a pressure washer is
used to wash away some of the
top surface and expose the aggre-
gate. Set-retarding compounds are
often used to slow the set, but
make sure you follow the manufac-
turers instructions. The aggregate
can also be exposed by removing
the surface cement with acid etch-
ing, sand blasting, grinding or
hammering. Exposure level can
vary from barely revealing fine
aggregate to up to 1/3 of the
diameter of coarse aggregate
exposed.
Stamping or imprinting:
Stamping tools are pressed into
the concrete to create a pattern
and then removed. A powder
release agent or plastic sheet is
placed on the concrete surface
after floating and troweling.
STAMPING IN DETAIL
A wide variety of stamps are
available ranging in design from
brick, cobblestone, stone, and ash-
lar slate to patterns that resemble
wooden planks. Matcrete has over
175 patterns to choose from. The
concrete stamps are made from a
high-quality urethane with fixed
handles designed for quick and
easy placement. Stamps are avail-
able as seamless imprinting or in
set patterns. Seamless texture or
non-directional patterns are the
easiest and fastest way of stamp-
ing concrete as there is no set
direction or lay-down pattern to
follow. Regardless, a wide set of
variables is involved in properly
imprinting concrete including:
temperature, sunlight or shade,
wind, access and the depth of
the stamping tool.
Regardless of the design used,
the concrete should be covered
with either a plastic membrane or
release powder to prevent the
cement from sticking to the con-
crete stamp. Matcrete Release
Powder, a fine talc-like powder, is
not only quick and easy to use, it
adds a secondary color to the
Color Hardened concrete. Before
application of the release powder,
it should be air-entrained to beat
air back into it. The fine powder
settles during transportation. A
portable electric drill and paddle
mixer works quite well. Broadcast
the powder over the surface by
hand, brush or even the lid from
the bucket. Broadcast as low to
the surface as possible, tossing
the powder across and not down
A screed board is used to level
the concrete to the form boards.
A bull float is used to smooth
and float the concrete surface.
The edges should be smoothed
using an edger, and then a float
used to further smooth out the
edges.
on the surface. Avoid lumps on
the surface, as this may create
blank spots in the texture. The
rate of application depends on
the concrete set rate, depth of
desired texture and wind speed.
Do not apply this on a windy day.
Approximately 3-1/2 pounds is
required per 100 feet.
PATTERNED STAMPING
Patterned stamping requires
careful layout and tool placement.
Joint spacing must be considered.
You will need stamping tools to
span the entire slab in one direc-
tion and begin the second row.
Its a good idea to lay out the
design and even lay out the
stamping tools in the pattern
desired next to the pour, so youre
sure of the tool positioning. Once
you have determined the pattern,
and that the concrete will hold
up to the weight of the person
and tool, youre ready to place
the first stamp.
Place the stamp flat on the sur-
face of the concrete using the
handles on the back. If possible,
start against the structure or any
straight edge that will permit the
tool to remain square. Do not drag
The release powder is sprinkled
uniformly on the surface.
Once the concrete is sturdy
enough to support a person and
the stamps, the stamps are
applied. In most instances you
will need enough stamps to go
across one end of the pour.
Position one stamp, following the
manufacturers instructions.
Position the remaining stamps in
the row and tamp as per the
instructions. In some instances
you can walk on the stamps for
the imprint, but a tamper makes
the chore more precise.
Make sure you correctly lift the
stamps and do not drag or shift
them on the concrete. Then sim-
ply repeat the process, applying
the stamps according to the
manufacturers instructions for
the specific stamps.
Before stamping, a release agent
such as Matcrete Release
Powder should be applied. The
product not only prevents the
stamps from sticking, but also
provides an additional color. The
agent must be air-entrained
before use.
At the edges, allow the stamping tool to hang off the edge.
WITH STYLE
the stamp across the concrete
as this will scuff and scratch the
surface and mar the imprint.
Continue to set the remaining
stamping tools, following the
instructions for that particular
pattern. Patterned tools are
color-coded to help reduce
pattern repeat on the surface.
Rotate the colors so the surface
is randomly stamped.
Once all the tools are in place,
use a pounder or tamping tool to
create the imprint. If the concrete
is too soft to continue stamping
you should refrain from stamping
until it has the same consistency
and will properly support the
weight of the person and tool.
Continue to move and tamp the
tools in the direction of the pour
until the entire surface has been
imprinted. Always set the next row
tight to the first to keep the lines
square. Using a small Seamless
Texture Skin, work around hard-to-
reach edges such as steps, walls
and columns. Additional detailing
can be done using a touch wheel
and chisels.
SEAMLESS TEXTURING
You will need a minimum of
three large Seamless Texture
Skins. Place the first flat on the
surface using the handles. Then
place the second and third, over-
lapping each by 4 to 6 inches.
Once you have stamped the tex-
ture evenly into the concrete you
must underlap the first skin from
the other two before you can
pick it up and move into the next
position. Repeat the process until
you have covered the complete
area. When you move each stamp,
rotate it 90 degrees to ensure
there is no repeat of the design.
CURING AND CLEANUP
The next steps are curing and
wash-down. The main purpose of
curing is to increase durability and
reduce early carbonation on the
surface. Keeping the powdered
release agent on the surface for a
period of seven days will help pre-
vent early carbonation by limiting
the exposure to carbon dioxide in
the atmosphere. Regardless, it is
recommended the concrete has a
minimum of 48 hours to harden
before the wash-down procedure.
The first step is to remove all
forms, then sweep excess release
powder from the surface. Collect
as much of the release powder as
possible in a ditch or sump hole.
Then dampen the concrete sur-
face with water. Using a pressure
washer with a minimum of 2,000
psi, clean off the release powder.
Working the dampened surface
with a soft-bristle push broom
will also help. Matcrete Antique
Release and Efflorescence
remover can also be used to
remove stubborn stains. Clean
The stamped concrete and release agent should
be allowed to cure for at least 48 hours.
Sweep off the excess
powder. If possible,
capture the excess
powder for proper
disposal.
the concrete surface until the
water runs clear and the overall
appearance is desired.
The final step is to apply a sealer
to protect the concrete and seal in
the coloring. A number of sealers
are available, and its extremely
important to follow the directions
for the specific sealer. The con-
crete should be sufficiently cured
and moisture migration complete.
The surface must be free of dust,
debris, moisture and any other
contaminants. The sealer shown is
TK Products Achro Kure, available
from Decorative Concrete Supply,
www.murraydecorative.com, a
good source for all the decorative
concrete products and tools. The
first coat of sealer should be
applied evenly with a high-pressure
sprayer. The second coat can be
applied when the first coat has
thoroughly dried (three hour re-
coat time). Depending on the
porosity of the concrete, you may
need a third coat. Foot traffic is
permitted within 24 hours and
vehicular within 72 hours.
Using a pressure washer with at least
2,000 psi, wash the remaining powder
from the surface.
You may also wish to use a soft-
bristle push broom to remove
stubborn areas.
An old, discolored sidewalk or
patio can be brightened by pour-
ing new concrete over the old
and creating a colored and
stamped design.
Small jobs can be poured using
bagged concrete, which can be
easily mixed and poured using a
Crete-Sheet mixing bag.
EHT
WITH STYLE
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I
n general, gutters and downspouts are far from the most glamorous
feature of a home, but these systems are the unsung heroes that pro-
tect your house from water damage. By collecting roof runoff and
diverting it away from the building envelope, gutters and downspouts
help to prevent damage such as wood rot, mold and mildew.
The house shown in this article was built in 1978 and only
had a single gutter and two downspouts installed at the
front, with nothing on the rear. As a result, during a
rainstorm the water was cascading off the rear of
the roof and pounding a trench along the foundation
wall, where it was seeping through the ground and
migrating through the cinderblock, as evidenced by
water stains on the interior of the wall. By installing
a gutter and a couple of downspouts, the water is
channeled away from that troublesome trench and
diverted across the yard and away from the house
walls.
Professional installation of metal gutters often
involves specialized equipment used to form gutters
from sheet metal at the job site. One advantage of pro-
fessional installation is that the gutters can be installed
with a seamless system, which provides the best protec-
tion against leaks. Plus, the gutter contractor will be the guy
working atop a ladder at the roof line, which is a big selling point
for homeowners who arent comfortable with the heights of roof work.
However, for do-it-yourselfers who dont mind working on a ladder, you
can save considerable labor costs by installing a gutter using the sec-
tional systems available at your local home center.
Install it
yourself to
protect your home
and save on
labor costs.
FOR THE DIYER
& GUTTERS
DOWNSPOU
By Matt Weber
GutterFeatureEDIT_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:22 PM Page 42
OUTS
For this particular job, I picked
up the materials at my local
Lowes, which distributes
Amerimax aluminum gutter sys-
tems. The first step is to sketch out
your gutter system on paper
so you can quantify the various
components required. Measure
your roof line and wall height to cal-
culate the number of 10-ft. sec-
tions of gutter and downspout
youll need. I was working with
standard 5-in. gutters with a K
profile. Next, account for end caps,
seamers, inside or outside corner
pieces, downspout elbows and end
drops. Youll also need mastic for
sealing the joints, downspout
bands to fasten to the house, and
sheet-metal screws to connect the
downspout sections. To hang the
gutter, you can choose from a vari-
ety of fastener types. I chose to use
hidden bracket fasteners that are
held to the fascia with screws.
Heres how homeowners can install
a gutter, protect their home and
save some cash by doing it
themselves
GETTING STARTED
When installing a gutter system,
be prepared to spend a lot of time
working at potentially dangerous
heights. Because so much roof
work is involved, I highly recom-
mend attaching a ladder stabilizer
to the top of your ladder. I picked
up a Werner Ladder Stabilizer at
Lowes, which proved on this job to
be the best 25 bucks I could have
spent. Not only does this simple
bracket attachment safely prevent
the ladder from swaying from left
to right while youre standing on
it, but it also provides a 10-in.
standoff from the roof line, which
makes it easy to access the fascia
and gutter without obstruction
from the ladder. The stabilizer
also rests on the roof, rather than
on the shingles, fascia or house
siding, so theres no worry of
accidental damage from contact
with the ladder.
To begin installation, safely posi-
tion the ladder on even ground
with the ladder stabilizer firmly
supported by the roof deck. Climb
up to one corner and hook the end
of a chalk line at the point where
you want the top edge of the gut-
ter to terminate. Unreel the line as
you move to the opposite end of
the fascia. At that corner, first level
the string, and then drop the string
about 1 in. per 40-ft. run and snap
the chalk line. This achieves a
slope that helps gravity pull water
to the downspout locations. If you
have a long run with downspouts
at both ends of the gutter, you can
slope the gutter from its midpoint
toward both of the book-ending
downspouts.
PREASSEMBLY
Even when using a ladder stabi-
lizer, the safest and easiest way to
work is to assemble as much of
the gutter system on the ground
as possible.
I designed this particular gutter
system to have a downspout at
each end, which required an end
drop at each downspout location.
To join the end drop to the gutter
or to join any gutter section to
anotherrequires a seamer.
The seamer is a 3-inch wide piece
of aluminum in a K profile to
match the gutter. First, apply gut-
ter sealant or mastic to the top
side of the seamer piece. Then,
wrap the seamer around the
butted gutter components from
below. The front of the seamer
hooks to the front edge of the
gutter. The rear of the seamer
The various gutter components
are connected with aluminum
seamers and gutter mastic.
& GUTTERS
DOWNSPOUTS
SureDriveFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:54 PM Page 45
extends above the rear of the gut-
ter, and you fold this extended flap
of metal over the rear edge of the
gutter. Use pliers to crimp both the
front and rear lip of the seamer
tightly onto the gutter. Then, cover
the visible seam inside the gutter
with a generous bead of mastic.
With the end drops positioned
over the corner of each wall, I
still had 12-1/2 inches of gutter
between the end drop and the end
of the roof. This required cutting a
short section of gutter, seaming
the piece onto the end drop, and
then applying an end cap using
the gutter mastic. Before installing
the gutter section, give the mastic
a few hours to dry and gain some
rigidity at the joints.
CUTTING TO SIZE
When assembling the gutter
and downspouts, you will likely
have to cut some of the materials
to length. One basic method is to
clamp the material firmly to a cou-
ple of saw horses and cut using
a hacksaw. A good pair of metal
snips can also do the job.
Either of those methods work
fine, but I used a sliding miter saw
with a fine-toothed blade turned
backwards. The speed of the
blade combined with the back-
wards teeth make a nice, clean
cut with very little operator effort.
Note: When cutting gutter material
on the miter saw, turn the section
upside down so the cut enters the
more stable underside of the gut-
ter rather than the top edges.
FASTENERS
Gutter fasteners come in
a wide variety of styles and
shapes. Some of the options
include screw and ferrule, fascia
brackets, roof hangers with strap,
or hidden hangersthe kind I
chose. The hidden hangers clip
over the rear edge of the gutter
and hook beneath the front lip.
Each hidden fastener comes with
a 1/4-in. hex-head screw that you
power drive into the fascia board
to hang the gutter.
I pre-attached the hidden
hangers while assembling the
gutter section at ground level.
Simply clip them in place every
2 feet along the length of the
gutter section. Make sure to
locate a fastener near the end
of each gutter section to minimize
stress at the joint locations.
HANGING IT SOLO
As is usually the case, I was
working without any help, but if
you can recruit a friend or neigh-
bor to help install the gutter then
I suggest doing so. Although the
gutter sections are very light-
An end cap ensures the water that exits the gutter in a controlled flow
through the downspout.
& GUTTERS
DOWNSPOUTS
weight, their size makes them
cumbersome for a single individ-
ual to carry up the ladder and nail
in place. But thats what I did.
To install the first section I
placed the ladder on the roof
about midway of where the first
section would be installed. I
hauled the gutter section to the
top, positioned its end about
1 inch past the roof line,
andholding the section from
the middle of the gutterI slightly
tilted it so its top edge matched
the slope of my chalk line. I then
zapped in the screw of the center
fastener.
The aluminum gutters are so
lightweight that a single screw will
hold the section temporarily in
place. By having the center screw
secured, I had a pivot point where
I could more accurately position
the gutter along the chalk line and
drive home the remaining screws
to anchor the gutter.
And, thats pretty much the
basics of hanging the gutter:
Rinse and repeat. Start at one
end and work toward the opposite,
assembling as much of the gutter
on the ground as possible and
securing it with fasteners at the
roof line. The only difference is
that you will have to seam togeth-
er the adjoining gutter sections at
the roof line rather than on the
ground.
DOWNSPOUTS
Once the gutter was completed
with end drops located at each
wall corner, I then assembled
the downspouts. To do so, I
temporarily duct-taped an elbow
to the flange outlet of each end
drop. (The flanges are secured to
the end drops using mastic and
sheet metal screws.) I used a
straight edge to follow the trajec-
tory of the elbow toward the wall
where the second elbow would be
located. I then temporarily taped
the second elbow to the wall.
Next, I used a ruler to measure
the downspout section I needed to
install between the two elbows.
Note that each downspout and
Install hangers every 24 inches along the gutter.
The flange is secured in the end
drop with gutter sealant and
screws (screws not pictured).
COVER UP FOR EASY MAINTENANCE
Gutter protection is a hot item among the many homeowners who groan at the prospect of climbing onto the roof to
scrape muck out of their gutters. The idea behind these products is to prevent leaves and other debris from accumulat-
ing in the gutter system, which can cause blockage and in some areas lead to ice dams. Here are three different
designs to consider when selecting a gutter protection device.
LeafBlox is a product that the EHT staff affectionately refers to as fuzzy caterpillars
or big pipe cleaners. Thats what they look like anyway, but this interesting design for
a gutter guard costs a fraction of many competitive systems and provides 360-degree
internal protection to block leaves, branches and other debris, including nesting birds,
insects or squirrels from getting into your rain gutters. Simple to install by hand, the
LeafBlox product also prevents standing water in your rain gutters that can be a breeding
ground for insects and disease. Visit www.leafblox.com.
GutterFill is a porous, foam-like product that fits popular gutter sizes and styles.
Each style is cut to fit inside your gutter and seals out all debris, while allowing water
to quickly flow through it. GutterFill fills your gutters and utilizes the entire surface
area of your gutters to capture all of the water. It can handle water flows of up to
24 inches per hour, and it all goes into your downspout. The product screens pine
straw, maple whirlies, seeds and small pieces of debris that tend to get into your
gutters or entirely block your covers and screens, preventing any water from entering
the gutters. GutterFill also stops mosquitoes from breeding in your gutters by
preventing access to water, and it includes built-in BioCide to stop the growth of
moss, mold and mildew. GutterFill comes with a 20-year, no-clog guarantee.
Visit www.americangutterfilter.com.
Gutter Guard is a system of hinged metal covers with a convex
design that covers both the gutters and the edge of the roof to prevent leaves, twigs
and other debris accumulation. Made of galvanized steel, aluminum, copper or powder-
coated steel, the Gutter Guards simply snap onto the front edge of the gutter using
hinged stainless steel clips. The guards install in seconds with the push of the thumb,
and if there ever is a need to clean them, just flip up the guards at the hinge for easy
gutter access. We purchased this product at our local Lowes, www.lowes.com.
I used a straight ruler to measure the downspout needed between two elbows. The downspout sections connect
with slip joints, each fastened with at least two aluminum screws driven into predrilled holes.
& GUTTERS
DOWNSPOUTS
elbow has one end crimped. The
parts are joined by fitting the
larger end of one over the smaller
end of the other. In other words,
downspouts are connected using
a slip joint (not a butt joint like the
gutters), so be sure to account for
the overlapping slip joint when
measuringusually 1 inch of
downspout overlapping the
elbow at each end.
Assemble the downspout at the
ground level, driving primed sheet-
metal screws into predrilled holes
at each joint in the downspout.
Use two screws per joint.
Fasten the downspouts snugly
against the wall, with two flexible
aluminum downspout bands per
10-foot section using nails or
screws. A little temporary duct
tape helps to keep the downspout
stationary while fastening.
Finally, attach a front or side
elbow at the downspouts bottom
to direct water away from the
house foundation. In some cases
you can use a section of down-
spout as an extension. However,
I used a length of Flex-Drain,
which can bend and extend from
3 to 12 feet to easily aim the
water where you want it.
QUESTIONS ON CORNERS?
The installation shown in this article is pretty straightforward, with no corners to overcome during the project.
However, creating corners is easy with sectional gutter systems. The corner sections are sold as pre-manufactured com-
ponents: both Outside Miters and Inside Miters are available, so you dont have to worry about seaming a 45-degree cut.
All thats required is careful measurement of the components, and then to seam the two butted square sides of the
miter piece into the gutter run as usual.
EHT
Diagram courtesy Amerimax
QUICK FIX
R
eplacing an out-of-style ceil-
ing fixture not only updates
the look of a room because
of the new fixtures appearance,
but the manner in which it casts
light can also dramatically impact
the ambience of the living space.
From single-light fluorescents to
elaborate dining room pendants,
ceiling-mounted light fixtures are
prominent features of the interior
dcor.
Ceiling fixtures range in style
from elegant chain-mounted chan-
deliers with sparkling crystals and
candle-style lighting to more mod-
ern track-style fixtures that feature
multiple, adjustable lamps that
operate from a single electrical
box.
Regardless of style, the major
concern when selecting a replace-
ment feature is to ensure that the
box, ceiling and wiring will support
the weight of the fixture. For a new
fixture that weighs approximately
the same as the old one, the exist-
ing electrical box will probably suf-
fice. However, if the replacement
is heavier, the ceiling box may
need to be replaced to support
the extra weight.
OUT WITH THE OLD
Replacing a light fixture
doesnt require an electrician.
Following a few simple safety
guidelines, a DIY homeowner
can easily replace a fixture
successfully, although the work
should be inspected by a profes-
sional. Also, check with local offi-
cials to see if a permit is required.
Before making your first move,
turn off the power at the breaker
box. Do this by flipping a circuit
breaker or unscrewing a fuse. Use
a voltage tester to make sure the
power is off.
When removing the old fixture,
use a work platform fastened to
a ladder to support the weight of
the fixture while you remove the
mounting screws from the electri-
cal box. With the screws out, pull
off the box cover and disconnect
the wiring. The wires should be
twisted together and capped with
a wire nut. To disconnect, just
unscrew the wire nut and untwist
the wire pairs.
By Matt Weber
Replace a Ceiling Fixture
Light up your lifefrom above.
The first step to replace the fix-
ture is always to disconnect the
power supply. Then support the
fixture and unscrew the mounting
screws from the electrical box.
QuickFixEDIT_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:35 PM Page 50
SafeWorldFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:55 PM Page 51
ASSEMBLE THE FIXTURE
Organize the fixtures compo-
nents, including the canopy, the
hanging hardware, etc. Because
ceiling fixtures vary greatly in
style and construction, so do the
associated components and the
assembly process. Any quality light-
ing manufacturer will include
assembly instructions
specific to the fixture model, and
usually the job requires nothing
more than a screwdriver. The cord
of the light fixture follows the
chain, looping through the links
periodically to keep the cord and
chain bundled. Remember to
thread the box cover, the new
mounting strap (which screws into
the junction box) and any other
necessary parts over the wire and
chain before installing.
Next, use your ladder/work plat-
form combo to support the weight
of the fixture. Ultimately, the height
of your hanging fixture is up to you.
However, hanging fixtures are often
positioned above focal points, such
as a dining room table. In that situ-
ation, a good rule of thumb is to
install the fixture about 30 inches
above the table. To do so, it helps to
have an assistant hold the fixture
in place on the ceiling while you
measure the distance and adjust
the chain accordingly. To shorten
a chain, just cut it to length with
metal snips, and then cut the wiring
6 inches longer than the chain.
WIRING BASICS
In modern wiring, individual
wires are bundled together in a
sheathed cable. Two-wire with
ground cables have a black wire,
a white wire and an uninsulated
ground wire. Three-wire with
ground cables (used with three-
way and four-way switches) have
a black wire, a white wire, a red
wire and an uninsulated ground.
Older homes have knob and
tube wiring. Instead of cables,
knob and tube wiring is a two-
wire system in which individual
wires are insulated with white or
black treated fabric.
Regardless of your wiring system,
the white wire is usually the neutral
wire, and the black is the live or
hot wire. Any red wires are hot, too.
The unsheathed, exposed copper
wires are ground wires. (Note: In
some cases a wiring installation may
require a white wire to be hot, in
which case it should be marked with
black tape. However, just because it
should have been marked doesnt
mean that it was marked.)
If only a single cable, or one set
of black and white wires, enters
Many light fixtures dont have
black and white wires, in which
case, look for a rib on the wire
sheathing to determine the neu-
tral wire.
Once the wires are properly con-
nected, screw the mounting plate
to the junction box, then follow
with the canopy and locknut.
QUICK FIX
Assemble the various components
of the new fixture according to
the manufacturers instructions.
Connect the wiring by matching
the color-coded wires of the sup-
ply line and fixture, twisting them
together, and then capping each
connection with a wire nut.
the box, then the fixture is at the
end of the circuit. This is common,
but not guaranteed, with ceiling
fixtures and allows for the simplest
method of installation. If two
cables (or two sets of black and
white wires) enter the box, the fix-
ture is in the middle of a circuit. If
a fixture is in the middle of a cir-
cuit, you will have to twist multiple
wires together.
Those general wiring guidelines
should give an idea of how to iden-
tify the hot and neutral wires of
the supply cable. However, many
light fixtures do not actually have
black and white cables, but its still
important to connect the neutral
wire of the circuit to the neutral
wire of the light. To identify the
neutral wire, examine the lamp
cord closely; the neutral wire
usually has a white rib on the
sheathing as its indicator.
GET CONNECTED
All thats required for installa-
tion is a screwdriver, a ladder and
some wire strippers. It may help
to screw the mounting strap to
the junction box to keep the wires
close together while you work.
Using a combination stripper,
pinch the wire in the appropriately
sized hole, squeeze to cut the
sheathing, and twist and pull to
remove about 3/4-inch of insula-
tion from each wire. Match the
fixture wires to the supply wires
according to sheathing color (hot to
hot, neutral to neutral), twist the
exposed wires together clockwise,
and secure them with a UL-listed
wire nut. Install a light bulb and
test the connection before install-
ing the fixture. If theres no illumi-
nation, you probably have a loose
connection, so try again. Once the
light functions, add some extra
connection protection by wrapping
electricians tape around the wire
nuts.
If you havent yet installed the
mounting bracket, then screw it to
the junction box. Then screw the
threaded mounting stem on the
chain solidly into the mounting
bracket. Finally, cover the junction
box with the cover or canopy
and secure it in place with the
locknut included with your light
fixture.
Thats all it takes for a contem-
porary lighting update to your
interior dcor.
Editors Note: Special thanks
to Progress Lighting for
supporting this project. Visit
www.progresslighting.com.
The fixture shown is a four-light
chandelier from Progress Lighting,
featuring an antique bronze finish
and etched watermark glass.
Ceiling fixtures come in many
shapes and sizes. This funky
globe-shaped fixture has a floral
glass design that casts a warm,
mottled light pattern throughout
the foyer at night.
EHT
The final step is to install the glass and light bulbs. Balance
the light output by using lower wattage bulbs for fixtures with
several sockets, and using higher wattage bulbs for fixtures
with fewer sockets.
RTA12 & RTR12 ROTARY TILLERS
The RTA12 & RTR12 Series Rotary Tillers from Land Pridetill soil for seedbed and planting preparation with
applications in landscaping, gardens and residential areas. Theyre adapted for 15- to 50-horsepower tractors
with Category I three-point hitch mounting, 540-rpm PTO speed and are Quick-Hitch adaptable. The offset
capabilities allow the tiller to work closer to objects such as fence lines, buildings or trees. Operators can
control the tilling depth with the adjustable skid shoes.
A 15-in. rotor swing turns the soil over faster, and
enables deep tilling action. The reverse rotation tillers
(RTR12 Series) tend to achieve greater depth penetra-
tion, resulting in moving and pulverizing more soil as
well as burying more of the residue in the soil.
The RTA12 and RTR12 are most
popular for compact tractors.
Visit landpride.com.
HOT
PRODUCTS
WILTON ROAD-READY ALL TERRAIN VISE
Not every job presents ideal work conditions, which
is why Wilton developed the ATV (All Terrain Vise).
When work has to get done, the go-anywhere ATV
helps transform pickup trucks, utility trucks and
SUVs with 2-in. hitches into instant workstations. At
the jobsite or in the shop, the innovative Wilton ATV
is a combination vise and sleeve that slides into a
standard 2-in. receiver without interfering with the
tailgate. A patented mounting bracket (provided)
also converts the ATV into a bench vise when
attached to a workbench, trailer or other stable
work surface. The ATV is ideal for vehicles used in
construction, farm and ranch, automotive, marine
or those dedicated to outdoor and off-road activities.
The mobile vise is great for most bending and cut-
ting operations. Its also handy for fence, building
and parts repairs, and other work-holding projects. The 33-lb. portable, multi-use vise is constructed of
high-strength, ductile cast iron, powder-coated steel rated to 60,000 psi. The ATV also features a patented
360-deg. locking handle. When driving, a spring-loaded hub secures the handle and keeps it in an upright
position. Visit www.wiltontools.com.
HotProductsEDIT_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:23 PM Page 54
WESTBURY ALUMINUM DRINK RAIL
The new Westbury Aluminum Drink Rail from Digger Specialties, Inc. comes individually sleeved as a kit, with
one rail and screws included, so it's easier to stock and handle for Lumber Dealers. The Drink Rail is available
in 74- and 98-in. lengths and a width of 3-1/4 inch. The pre-drilled rail has solid aluminum wall construction
for strength and durability and can support wood or composite deck boards. It easily installs on the Westbury
C-Series Crossover Post System. DSI offers the
Drink Rail in their 12 standard colors: Satin Black,
Black Fine Texture, Ninety Bronze, Bronze Fine
Texture, White Fine Texture, Gloss Beige, Gloss
White, Speckled Walnut, Sandy Shore, Clay,
Chocolate and Silver. The colors are AAMA 2604
as standard, or you can upgrade to AAMA 2605
powder coating. Visit www.westburyrailing.com
WORX AEROCART
Any weekend warrior who has used a conventional wheelbarrow knows
they're heavy, bulky and hard to balance and maneuver, especially over
uneven terrain. Not so with the new WORX AeroCart. When in wheelbar-
row configuration, AeroCarts patented design concentrates the center
of gravity over two oversized, flat-free tires for a load that's easier to lift
and manage. In fact, tests have shown that AeroCart makes lifting 200
lbs. feel like 17 lbs. AeroCarts balanced, dual-wheel construction elimi-
nates side-to-side tipping and weaving, which often leads to spilled
loads and muscle strain. AeroCart lightens the load when moving loose
topsoil, gravel, sand, rocks, firewood, debris and other heavy loads. But
thats just the beginning of its versatility. Pull the release knob on the
side of the cart and fold up the legs until they lock. Then fold down the
front dolly plate, and AeroCart transforms into a hand truck. Use
AeroCart in hand truck mode to move items up
to 300 lbs. The narrow 22-inch width easily
navigates standard doorways and fence gates.
Drop-down extension arms convert the cart into
an extended dolly for transporting bags of mulch,
fertilizer, potting soil or logs weighing up to 80 lbs.
Visit www.worx.com.
HOT
FIFTHROOM.COM OFFERS ILUMA OUTDOOR
STRUCTURE LIGHTING FROM I-LIGHTING
Fifthroom.com expands its online specialty marketplace for landscape structures with the addition of
iluma Outdoor Structure Lighting from i-lighting, a leading manufacturer of easy-to-install, reliable and
cost-effective LED lighting. The new iluma Outdoor Structure Lighting system features the companys
proprietary Easy Plug connection technology and dimmer system that will combine with Fifthroom.coms
extensive line of landscape structures, ranging from gazebos and pergolas to garden bridges and
arbors. The new lighting option brightens
the mood and adds ambiance to any exteri-
or location. The iluma system can be used
both indoors and outdoors, available with
either clear white or warm yellow LEDs and
in stock lengths or customized lengths to
meet contractor requirements. It also works
equally well with vinyl, aluminum, composite
and wood railing, creating nearly invisible
downlighting effects. The systems sleek
5mm design is also available for 4-, 6-, and
8-ft. kits and can be customized to meet
user requests. Visit www.fifthroom.com.
PRODUCTS
HITACHI DS18DGL DRIVER/DRILL
Hitachi Power Tools' new 18V Lithium Ion model DS18DGL Driver/Drill features the company's signature
ergonomic design to make it extremely well-balanced and comfortable for extended use. It's also covered
by Hitachis Lifetime Lithium Ion tool warranty and 2-year Lithium Ion battery warranty. The DS18DGL is
powered by a Lithium Ion slide-type battery for fade-free preformance, less weight and three times the total
battery life of traditional Ni-Cd batteries. The DS18DGL driver/drill delivers 400 in/lbs of torque to power
through tough jobs. A 22+1 clutch delivers 22 torque settings, and a drill mode for ultimate precision and
control. The two-speed gear setting allows the user to match
the appropriate speed to the application, and the 1/2-in.
keyless chuck is ideal for quick and simple bit
replacements. Also, an LED light points
upwards from the base of the tool to
illuminate the bit, and a variable speed
trigger helps to provide complete control
during operation. Compact and lightweight at
just 3.7 lbs., the DS18DGL reduces fatigue in
extended or overhead use applications. Visit
www.hitachipowertools.com.
RemodelShowFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:54 PM Page 57
HOT
FYPON GARAGE DOOR DCOR
To add pizzazz to the exterior of your garage door, the experts at Fypon recommend you install decorative
urethane trim pieces, such as mouldings, crossheads, pediments and keystones to the garage door sur-
round. The first basic element is to surround the entire garage door entry with weather-resistant urethane
moulding or PVC trim. The pieces are easy to cut and install, plus they resist insect infestations, warping,
splitting and humidity. Urethane prod-
ucts come with a pre-primed surface
that is ready to paint or stain, so no
sanding or additional priming is needed
before installation. PVC trim pieces do
not need to be painted. As an option to
moulding and trim, more detailed
pilasters, which stand vertically to
frame out an entry door, add dimension
and beauty to the sides of the garage
entryway. After installing these, you can
look at the top of the garage entrance.
Crosshead trim comes in lengths up
to 207 inches to accommodate large
garage openings. Or, you can order
two smaller pieces, install them side-
by-side and cover the gap with a
keystone decorative element placed
in the center. Visit www.fypon.com.
PRODUCTS
DEWALT METAL STORAGE SYSTEMS
The two new DeWalt products include a 36-in. 6-Drawer Top
Chest (DWMT73678) and a 36-in. 5-Drawer Roller Cabinet
(DWMT73679). Combined, the Top Chest and Roller Cabinet
deliver up to 1,400-lb. load capacity. DeWalt has built the
rolling storage systems to feature auto-return closing draw-
ers, 100-lb. capacity ball bearing drawers, 200-lb. capacity
extra deep bottom drawer, and fully extendable drawers. The
pull-out drawers are deep and large enough to store and
organize an array of large tools. The top lid design provides
enough clearance to allow a 20-volt DeWalt drill to stand
with the lid closed. Knockouts in the back of the top lid
allow power cords to run inside for battery charging, with
the lid closed and locked. Top and bottom keys are included
for an internal locking mechanism with breakaway keys.
Heavy-duty casters offer durability and easy movement.
Visit www.dewalt.com.
FyponFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:51 PM Page 59
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PineHallFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 4:12 PM Page 5

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The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement

Gutters & Downspouts for the DIYer

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