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Table of Contents
step 1: Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
step 2: PCB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
step 4: Soldering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
step 5: Neaten it up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
step 6: Programming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
step 8: Improvements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
intro: LED Dot-Matrix Display
This is a simple HOW-TO make your own personalised LED Dot-Matrix display. I will be adding the complete program with an explaination to light the LEDs with. It's also
rather hackable, you can change it to suit yourself.
I decieded to make my own dot matrix display because they look cool, and none can be found in blue, which is the best colour, so I decided, may as well make it myself.
Image Notes
1. This LED shouldn't be on, not at all, oh dear, debugging to follow...
step 1: Plan
The first task is to plan the project.
I built the cuircuit on Eagle so I could see the connections and test the LED matrix. It also enabled me to learn how to light the individual LEDs.
First thing to do is to add all the support stuff for PIC, so I need power supply, download socket and reset. I also need to arrange the outputs in simple to use rows. This
defined the size of the PCBs so I spent as much time as I could reducing the size until I couldn't get it any smaller.
The next step was to place the 20 LEDs in the dot-matrix, connectign all the anodes in columns and all the cathodes in rows. This is impossible to do without using link
wires unless your using double layer board or double sided board. I wasn't so I will be using link wires.
Image Notes
1. This is the connector for the top. All the positive columns will connect up to
Image Notes this.
1. The display itself. In this case 20 LEDs arrayed in a matrix with 4 columns and 2. This is the side connector, all the negative rows will connect to this.
5 rows.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
3. This is the download socket, it will allow you to re-program the PIC while it is
2. The side connector, all the negative rows connect to this, which should then be still attached to the board.
connected to the side connector on the controller board. 4. This is the PIC. I am using a PICAXE18X, for more details look at step 2.
3. This is the top connector, all the positive columns are connected to this. This 5. Because it needs to be powered by something, and PICAXEs like 5v, and
should then be connected to the top connector on the controller board. hate 9V.
6. The reset for the PIC in case it hangs or gets a little confused.
step 2: PCB
Well it needed to be made some how.
I designed the PCB on the school computers, which had PCB Wizard 3. Great piece of software, very easy to use but still very powerful. Unfortunately this means while I
have the PCBWiz3 files, I don't have them in any other format, and the only pictures I have are the photo-etch masks, always good practice to wrap them up in the photo-
etch mask paper for later use, or just documentation. Unfortunately they scanned in rather badly.
However as I redesigned the circuit on Eagle, I've gone and re-made the PCB.
Image Notes
1. The display board, you can see the long pads where I intend to surface mount the link wires.
2. The controller board, there are going to be many link wires, and lots of cleaning up as the tracks will probably come out touching. The downside of miniturisation.
I used:
I used a PICAXE PIC as I've used them in school, they are very simple. I find them very simple to program, and then download the program to. PICAXE BASIC is of
course the only PIC language I know as well, so that limits them. They are meant to be quite easy to find, although in the UK you can just go to
I bought the LEDs at the same time, now as I was going for a blue dot-matrix these were my choice, and I paid for that, 48p per LED, so £12 for the whole lot, it was
cheaper to buy in a pack of 25. Of course if your going make it you can use what you want, although to use my PCB layouts you'll be wanting a 5mm package.
I needed the 4k7 Ohm resistor for the reset, unless the reset pin (pin 4) is pulled high by the 4k7 ohm resistor then the PIC will constantly reset, which is bad.
I used the stereo socket, 10k ohm resistor and the 22k ohm resistor for the download socket, this means the whole unit is self contained, which is very handy. Also
prevents the PIC being ruined becasue I keep having to pull it out and eventually end up snapping the legs off, what a way to waste £4.75...
I had the PCBs etched at school so they were essentially free. However we use poor quality boards so the tracks can be pulled off quite easily, but I didn't think that
would be a problem, not yet at least. Oh was I in for pain.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
Image Notes
1. LED Matrix PCB
2. Controller PCB
3. Solder, how else are we going to attach the componants to the PCBs ?
4. Parts, on a black foam, sorry :(
5. 25 Diffused Blue LEDs @ £0.48 each, eek !
step 4: Soldering
Once you have the parts, it's time to connect them all together.
The first board I began soldering on was the display board. There were a number of reasons, it looked the most boring, it would be great fun to play with once I'd finished,
and it would be boring, wait, did I mention that ?
So once I'd cleaned up the tracks with some wirewool I began cutting and attaching link wires. These were damn fiddly and quite hard to make and then fix in place, so in
absence of a dutiful ceramic-fingered assistant I used sellotape, which lead me to the discovery, not for the first time, that burnt sellotape is nasty nasty stuff.
Once this was complete I started soldering the LEDs, I started from the top and worked my way down doing them individually, until I got bored and started on whole rows
at once. Towards the end it got quite difficult as the LED leads stuck out quite a way. Once all 20 LEDs were soldered, I attacked the back and snipped off all those pesky
leads as far down as I could. And true to my earlier thoughts grabbed a spare 6v battery pack and battery clip and began running the wires up and down the connections
lighting up columns. This looked pretty good on it's own, infact, the rest of the project may have been worth it just for this look. Of course for some strange reason whole
rows were lighting up together but at this point I didn't quite notice...
Image Notes
1. This is the back of the main board, here you can see the PCB layout, not to
mention my beautiful soldering.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
Image Notes
1. The solder in the background
2. PHEW all 20 LEDs attached, complete with 8 mini link wires surface mounted
on the back for neatness.
3. The legs of the LEDs poking out the back just before I snip them off.
Image Notes
1. The top connector on the controller board.
2. The LEDs.
3. The controller board.
4. The top connectors on the LED board. These are connected via the red multi-
core wire to the controller pcb.
5. The side connectors, connected together with black multi-core wire.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
step 5: Neaten it up
Once you've soldered the boards together it's time to neaten them up. There are a number of things you can do.
Image Notes
1. The negative side connector wires, which are a little close to the edge of the pcb.
2. The power cables dissappearing off the photo.
3. The download socket.
4. Cut and sanded PCB edges, makes it look pretty, doesn't hurt your hands, oh and it could almost be professional.
5. LEDs galore !!!
6. Signs of heavy use ...
step 6: Programming
So you've made it, you've plugged the battery in, but wait, no, it's not working, or maybe you just have to program it ...
Ah that'd be a good idea. Becasue of my forthought, I have a download socket already on the PCB, so, just whack in the download cable, plug that into a serial port on
your PC, get Programming Editor, and get coding!
Of course it helps if you've programmed a PICAXE before, I've had about 4 years experience so far, GCSE and AS/A level.
main:
goto main
This just sets up the PICAXE for the program, put the important code between the main and goto main, I do this so I don't forget to do it later. The next task is to set the
outputs, which pins do you want high, and which low. The long and time consuming way is to go:
high 1
high 2
high 3
low 1
low 2
low 3
Or you can be cool and set the states all in one line with:
This works by giving each pin a specific digit, so pin 8 is the fist digit, pin 0 is the last digit and so on. We also need to be able to put a time delay in there so the pins are
actually left on long enough for the LEDs to light. There are 2 main PICAXE waiting commands, wait and pause, wait 1 waits for 1 second, where as pause 1 waits for
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
1uSecond, which is what we need.
Those inclined to nit picking will have noticed that there are only 8 pins on the pins=%00000000 command. Yes, the ninth output on a PICAXE18X is infact the serial out
pin. This requires a completely new piece of code to set.
poke $05,%00000000
poke $05,%00001000
I'm not too sure why this works, or why it's nessesary, but I did get it from the friendly people at the PICAXE Forum
Image Notes
1. Handy notes, namely the difficult to remember commands and PICAXE notes.
2. The letter B in code.
3. The PICAXE program editor, unimaginatively named, Programming Editor...
4. Good music, this is essential.
And the second image is of a letter B in the dark, these are diffused blue LEDs with a freshly charged 4x AA 2500mAh battery pack, quite bright. But not so bright as so
you can't see the display, perfect.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
Image Notes
1. This LED shouldn't be on, not at all, oh dear, debugging to follow...
Image Notes
1. This shouldn't be on, oh dear ...
step 8: Improvements
It works, so now what, bask in the glory of a complete, and working project, no, not for a second. How can I make it better, how can I make it cheaper how can I make it
COOLER !!!
Well here's a few idea's that have been bouncing around my head.
SMD LEDs, okay, what if the leds were much smaller, that'd drop the total thickness of the project by what, 5mm, smaller is better. Plus SMD is so much cooler looking,
geek +5.
SMD PIC, whoa, more SMT goodness, geek +10 at least, okay it'd be un-removeable, but you can still download programs to it while it's on the board. Oh and it'd drop
the thickness of the project, at the back by 5mm (don't forget the download socket though).
Professional PCB manufacturing, well, how easy woudl that be, sure it'd cost a bit, but it would mean the boards are perfect, well, as perfect as you made them. You also
get to play with fun functions like multi-layers or double sided boards, imagine a double sided PCB, you wouldn't need 2 seperate PCB then. Add to that SMD
componants like resistors, LEDs adn PICs and you've got a very classy, but expensive board. Here's a list from CadSoft, the people that made Eagle, PCB
Manufacturers .
Larger display, most displays are 5 by 7, mine's a 4 by 5, so making it larger would open up a whole new range of display options. Of coruse you'd need more outputs, I
only had 9 available, but if you were to use a PICAXE28X you have up to 17 available outputs, thats an 8 by 8 display. Nice. However if you move away from PICAXEs
onto other microcontrollers I'm sure there are ones with different output pins. Another option is to Charlie-Plex the outputs, although you'll need to be able to set output
pins as inputs to get that working. I believe this is possible with most non-PICAXE PICs, especially Arduino's.
Hopefully once my website ( TheDarkPlace or just The Dark Place) is up and running, I may be able to sell kits of the 4 by 5 display, with a few options, such as 2
seperate boards, 1 complete board and 1 complete board with 2 layers. That however depends on how many people like it.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
Image Notes
1. The power.
Image Notes 2. The dowload socket.
1. The display. 3. The reset.
2. The download socket. 4. The PICAXE chip.
3. The PICAXE. 5. The display.
4. The reset. 6. This board uses two layers (the blue tracks and the red) which
5. This is the two earlier boards made into one. It is much larger, but does simplify the totally removes all the link wires it also reducesthe board size.
construction process. However as it is 2 layer it will cost a bit more.
6. The power.
Image Notes
1. This is just an updated version of the circuit schematic. I've gone and removed the
connectors and joined the relevent tracks together. Note: there may be a fult with the VSS/VDD
pins.
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 106 comments
Because of my limit on size and the number of outputs, I could only have a 4x5, not the standard 5 by 7, but it does the job, and I like it.
I'm not making another one, because I really don't see the point there are other things which I'm yet to do, things with ethernet and X10.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
Ankush says: Oct 30, 2007. 10:24 AM REPLY
I was wondering, can you display a sinusoidal wave-form in ur 4x5 dot matrix. I know u r using it to display alphabets & numbers. But i believe that
you cannot have a sine-wave on this type of display device.........as un-neccesary LEDs would glow.
The technique is called multiplexing. it's where you switch on all the LEDs on in a column or row at once, then turn them off and move to
the next row, if you do this quickly enough, they eye doesn't see these changes and instead just sees lit LEDs. Try googling multiplexing
for more information.
PICAXE ProgEd
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
imarzouka says: Mar 22, 2008. 10:38 PM REPLY
http://ledcalculator.net
Maplin are not very good either. They are VERY expensive. I now use Rapid
Electronics. http://www.rapidonline.com/
As for double sided boards, because I was doing this at school, I did not have double sided board to hand, and did not want to make the layout
more complex by using it, I did not use it. It works fine with out it, so I'm quite happy.
So please STOP with this "why don't you just use double sided board" comments. I didn't, it's easier not to, and it is now done. Oh and at the time
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
I had NO idea how to do double sided board in PCBWiz.
WEB SPECIALS
SALE ITEMS
WIDE SELECTION
OF PARTS
free catalogs!!!
Giant Display Assortment for only $5.00 it contains over 20 pieces!
their brightest led only cost .59 cents!!!
*****you must see their breadboards section!!!*****
If you still have it, can you photograph both where to connect the jumpers on the LED board, and the components on the controller board? I was going to do
this myself :D
Thanks.
(This is on your LED Dot-Matrix Display Instructable, if You are receiving an email)
means whenever i press a switch it counts and stop untill the switch is pressed next time i have to make hard ware also and by using atmel 89c51
microcontroller and 8x8 dotmatrix
plz help me i have to submit it after 3 days plz give me coding and circuit diadram plzzzzzzzzz im counting on u plzzzzzz
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/
mitxela says: Feb 25, 2007. 4:54 PM REPLY
pinski1, you're my hero.
Would never have been able to finish my GCSE project without this article.
Is the half-lit LED a software problem? The LEDs on the row of the 9th output on mine sometimes seem to light up dimly when they're not meant to.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Dot-Matrix-Display/