1

APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

A Dissertation Submitted to



National Institute of Fashion Technology
New Delhi, (Ministry of Textiles)
(In the Partial Fulfilment of the requirement for the award of Degree)

Master of Fashion Technology


Sponsored By

PEARL GLOBAL LTD



Submitted by :

Kapil Kumar

M.F. TECH III

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TEHNOLOGY
NEW DELHI

2


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Through this project report I would like to thank numerous people whose consistent support and
guidance has been the standing pillar in architecture of this project. To begin with, my sincere
thanks to the management of NIFT for giving this opportunity to experience and learn the processes
practiced in Apparel Industry.

For the completion of this document I would like to thank Mr. Sunil Motwani (Associate Professor,
department of Fashion Technology, NIFT) for being my mentor and my guide throughout the
project.
I would like to express my sincere thanks to the Management and staff of PEARL GLOBAL LTD,
Gurgaon for their outstanding Support and cooperation in my efforts to gain knowledge about the
practical aspects of Apparel industries during the Internship.

I am thankful to Mr. Pradeep Yadav (Sr. Production manager), Mr. Abhinaov Dhain(), Mr.
Dharmender Sharma (Sr. HR manager) for the guidance and planning out the schedule for the
internship.

I would like to grab this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to Ms. Saumya sharma
(Merchandiser),Ms. Ruchi sardana (Merchandiser), Mr. Santosh for guiding me through all the
processes involved in the processing of the fabric and was patient enough to answer all my doubts
and queries.
I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me throughout the
internship. Without their support, it would have been difficult job to successfully complete the
training.

Kapil Kumar





3

Declaration


I hereby declare that the work presented in the project report submitted to the Department of
Fashion Technology for the partial fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree of
Master of fashion technology is an authentic record of my work carried out at PEARL
GLOBAL LIMITED, GURGAON for a period of 12 weeks from 31
st
may 2011 to 23
rd
Aug 2011 as
per my curriculum requirement..

The matter embodied in this project report has not been submitted elsewhere by anybody for the
award of any degree.




Kapil Kumar(11)
MFTech, 3
rd
SEM,
(2010-2011 batch)
Nift, New Delhi.
(verma.box@gmail.com)

















4

EXECUTIVE SUMMERY

In the past two decades, the Indian textile industry in terms of home textile, garments and
accessories have a witnessed a complete transformation in terms of quality, market and product
development as well as the expansion, In this scenario export house plays the major role in the
growth and conduct of exports. Looking from this perspective pearl global is a very good and
important organization in its work.
Internship at pearl global limited has been a great exposure the practical application of my learning.
I gained knowledge about actual work culture of the company and how to deal with the people at
workplace.
I did my internship in Production, IE, merchandising and sampling department; also I followed up
production styles and collected data from different departments for wastage estimation in 3 different
styles.

OBJECTIVE

Objective of the study is to learn about the functioning of export house and working of various
departments particularly production, merchandising and sampling, earning knowledge about
different departments of the company, their function and information flow during work and wastage
happening in each department and suggestive measures to reduce them.

DATA COLLECTION METHOD

I collected this by following method-
Personal interview from various departments
Close observation during work
internal data from various departments
And secondary data was collected from the official websites and manuals of pearl global limited.





5

TABLE OF CONTENT
S.no. Topic PAGE NO.



1
i. Acknowledgement
ii. Declaration
iii. Executive summary
Introduction
1.1 Brief history
1.2 Philosophy
1.3 Values and objective
1.4 Quality and excellence
1.5 Product mix
1.6 Production mix
1.7 Production capacity
1.8 Clients
1.9 Business divisions
Design and development
Manufacturing
Sourcing
Marketing
Logistics and warehousing
1.10 Swot analysis(PGL)


1
1
2
2
3
3
3
3
3
4
5
5
5
6
6
7
8
9
9
9
2 DEPARTMENTS IN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED
2.1 Designing department
10
10
6

2.2 Testing department
2.3 Trims department
2.4 Fabric sourcing department
2.5 Fabric storage department
2.6 Outsourcing department
2.7 Sampling department
2.8 Cad department
2.9 Production department
Cutting and bundling department
Sewing department
Washing department
Pressing department
Finishing department
Packing department
2.10 Inspections department
2.11 Human resource department
2.12 Marketing/merchandising department
10
11

13
17
21
21
25
25
26
26
27
27
28
28
29
30
31
3
PROJECT
3.1 waste minimization
3.1.1. objective
3.1.2. Research methodology
3.1.3. literature review
3.1.4. case study: fabric wastage estimation
3.1.5.case study: cutting loss analysis
3.1.6. case study: Lost time calculation
39
40
40
40
40
42
49
52
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3.1.7 Maintenance department analysis.
3.1.8. production department analysis.
3.2. Rework Reduction
3.2.1. objective
3.2.2. research methodology
3.2.3. literature review
3.2.4. existing quality checkpoints
3.2.5. Defect analysis


60
61
62
62
62
62
64
66
4
Conclusion
73
5 Bibliography 74
6
Annexure
75













8

1.INTRODUCTION

1.1 BRIEF HISTORY:-Pearl Global was incorporated in 1979, business began in the 1980s, and its
first manufacturing facility was establishes in 1989.In 1993 it was become a public limited
company. The company structure of pearl global is extremely unique, as it includes all part of
garment industry under the House of Pearl.
A multinational ready to wear apparel business: They currently operate in 11 strategic locations
& six continents, leveraging the strengths of each country in creating a strong value for their
clients.

It offers full services to large retailers with the chain broken into the business unit that cater to
different product lines. The House of Pearl includes designing and manufacturing units,
marketing units in the U.S. and warehouse & distribution and the U.K.
Its operation in Bangladesh(NorPearl and NorPlanet) focus on more simple sourcing and
manufacturing while its offices in India focus on the sourcing and manufacturing of ethnic theyar
(more production intensive complicated clothing). It also has business in Hong Kong and UK. The
chairman of Pearl Global established a Fashion and Design academy Pearl Fashion Academy. The
company entered into a business and education partnership with Babson college in US. He has
actively involved with the development of readymade garment industry in India. He has
successfully established and promoted the fashion apparel brandLerros in Europe.

Own brands in the USA: - They manage two brands Kool Hearts, DCC in the United States of
America. The brand Kool Hearts focuses on the young fashion, where as the focus of DCC is more
towards Missy segment.







9

1.2. Organisation Structure
Management team at PGL
Name Designation
Ashutosh P Bhupatkar Director
Ashwani Palaha COO
Deepak Seth Chairman / Chair Person
Pankaj Bhasin Vice President
Prakash Prusty Company Secretary
Prakash Prusty Secretary
Pulkit Seth CEO
Pulkit Seth Managing Director
Rajeev Anand Vice President
Sanjay Jhangala VP (OPR) Production
Sanjay Pershad Whole Time Director
Vinay Arora VP (Marketing)


Organization chart of JC PENNY.
Mr. Pulkit Seth (MD)
Mr. Pankaj Bhasin (GM)
Mr. Ashish Garg(AGM)
Mr. Abhinaov Dhain (Senior merchandiser)


Ms. Saumya Sharma Ms. Ruchi Sardana
(Asst. Merchandiser) (Asst. Merchandiser)


10

1.3.PHILOSOPHY

They strongly believe that growth and prosperity of their business depends on developing an
integrated global community of motivated and innovative members.
Provide adequate support to the employees to perform to their fullest potential by providing
proper direction, arranging for training, supplying the necessary resources, maintaining a safe
working environment and removing unnecessary barriers to performance.
Enhance the skills of their employees, in light of the Groups markets and development goals
drawing strength from the diverse cultures for career growth in India and abroad.
Allow the employees with entrepreneurial spirit to achieve their dreams using the freedom and
flexibility provided for organizational effectiveness by promoting teamwork between groups and
work units strengthening the Groups identity and unity.
Reward the employees for their contributions and respect their dignity and honesty.
Look at our employees as our assets and partners in contributing to growth and in the ongoing
process of improving the systems and procedures of the company.

1.4.VALUES AND OBJECTIVE
House of Pearl believes that any business conduct can be ethical only when it rests on the nine
core values of Honesty, Integrity, Fairness, Respect, Trust, Purposefulness, Responsibility,
Citizenship and Caring.
The essence of these commitments is that each employee conducts the Companys business with
integrity, in compliance with applicable laws and in a manner that excludes considerations of
personal advantage.
They do not lose sight of these values under any circumstances, regardless of the goals they have
to achieve. For them, the means are as important as the ends.


1.5. QUALITY AND EXCELLENCE

They care about, Quality and Excellence, Health, Safety and Environment, Human Resource
Development, Energy Conservation, Corporate Citizenship.
They have dedicated teams of Quality Assurance & Quality Control.
11

Industrial Engineering Cells.
Compliance Teams.
These Teams ensure that all their factories produce world class quality products across all the
product categories.
In addition their sourcing offices have in house testing labs to ensure international standards for
fabric, yarn and garments.

1.6. PRODUCT MIX
INDIA: Woven cotton and value-added cotton, ethnic wear including blouses, t-shirts, bottoms, skirts,
children dresses.
BANGLADESH: Low cost basic stuff, Wal Mart, Nor Pearl, Nor Planet Pearl Global has manufactured
womens, childrens and mens shirts, vests, trousers, shorts, nightwear dresses suits and outerwear, stain
sealed garment using Goerge etc.

1.7. PRODUCTION MIX:-

Pearl Global uses an assembly line system. They use assembly line system because they receive
different type of value added order from different buyer, so assembly line system is helpful for
handling of this type of orders, because every style has different number of operation, so the
arrange assembly lines according to need of style. Sometime they use zigzag assembly line system.
Style that comes in production is already approved by buyers through sampling.

1.8. PRODDUCTION CAPACITY:-

Pearl Global has 20 million pieces in-house capacity and 120 million pieces capacity all across Asia.
Pearl global has approximately 3500 workers in unit 446.






12

1.9. CLIENTS















13

1.9. BUSINESS DIVISIONS

1.9.1. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT
In-house expertise for designing needs: Over 30 designers working across the group constantly
providing latest design inputs on latest design trends internationally. Presentation of product ideas
from across the globe gives the buyer a sense of cross-country styles of trends.
Dedicated fabric development and sampling unit in China and India.
Dedicated Design and Product Development facilities at each manufacturing location:- The
Group has product development capabilities in all categories such as Woven, Knits, Sweaters,
Bottoms which covers the entire range of products across all genders.

Creating a talent pool:- The promoters have also set up a premier fashion institute, Pearl
Academy of Fashions in India with an objective to train professionals who will serve and
eventually lead Indias fashion industry. The Company absorbs the best talent and also creates a
pool for the garment industry globally.





1.9.2. MANUFACTURING
They currently operate ten modern ready to wear apparel manufacturing facilities, of which seven
are located in India, two in Bangladesh and one in Indonesia. This enables them to leverage
relative strengths of each location and offer a wide range of product offerings to their clients.
Multi country presence also helps in diversifying the risks attached to each country.
Each factory specializes in a particular product range. The broad range of products that they offer
includes :-
Ladies tops, Dresses, T-shirts, Denims, Polos, Knits & Woven, Casual Pants and Sweaters etc.
The present in-house manufacturing capacity of the company is thirty million pc. per annum
spread over more than 725,000 sq feet of built up area with efficiently designed layouts to ensure
smooth flow of materials. They are planning to double their capacity expanding their operations in
Chennai, Bangladesh & Indonesia.
They follow best practices in manufacturing, which ensures quality products are delivered on
consistent basis.
14

Their units are approved by some of top retailers of the world; likes of The Gap, Inc., J.C Penney,
Next, Liz Claiborne, Esprit.
They follow ethical practices and full compliance to regulations prevailing in the country, they
operate.

1.9.3. SOURCING
Hong Kong is one of the biggest hubs for garment sourcing across the world. Their sourcing arm,
Norwest Industries aims to leverage its presence in this region to maximize its business volumes
and margins. To strengthen its sourcing capability credentials, over the years, Norwest set up
sourcing offices
Norwest Industries Ltd., Shanghai, China
Norwest Industries Ltd., Bangalore, India
Norwest Industries Ltd., New Delhi, India
Norwest Industries Ltd., Dacca, Bangladesh
Zamira Fashions Ltd., Hong Kong
These offices specialize in products, merchandising and QA teams directly coordinating
production with third party factories on a day to day basis to ensure quality and timely delivery of
customer orders.

1.9.4. MARKETING
Integrated marketing and merchandising teams in Canada, Europe, HK, UK, US and India closely
interacting with existing and potential customers at their doorstep
Designers are sharing ideas on an ongoing basis. The close interaction with customers gives
them the vital edge.
Distribution companies fully backed by strong sourcing and logistics facilities
The group identified as a strategic vendor by major retailers
Branded business in USA with brands DCC and Kool Hearts, DCC Women's focuses on
Missy segment, Kool Hearts is targeting Young Fashion segment

1.9.5.LOGISTICS AND WAREHOUSING

15

Warehousing, Logistics and distribution infrastructure in the UK and the US
Services offered - Logistics and Transportation, Garment processing, Ironing and storage,
Quality control and Reverse Logistics
Capability to perform a range of pre retailing processes on garments which can be
delivered ready to be placed on customer's store shelves
Can handle up to 5M pieces of garments per month
The warehouses are connected to the inventory management system of the customer that
facilitate daily and weekly order pickings and ensures timely delivery.

1.10. SWOT ANALYSIS(PGL)
Strengths:
Effective management
Wide sampling room
Organised workforce
Good inter and intradepartmental communication
Good financial base of house of pearl
International business presence
Good infrastructure
Centralised merchandising
Weaknesses:
High overtime cost
High sampling cost
Absence of dyeing and embroidery department
Opportunities:
International presence
Low labour cost comparing to buying countries
Incentives and support from government for export oriented units.
Threats:
Low cost by china
High Competitive environment
Increase in labour cost due to increment in minimum wages by Haryana government
16

2. DEPARTMENTS IN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED

2.1. DESIGNING DEPARTMENT
This department is basically involved in making the samples for fetching of orders. These samples
are marketing promotion samples because these samples may not have any specific request from
anyone but would be made from inputs from various sources like:
Information about latest trends, inventions, in the field fashion, fabrics, accessories etc
Styling according to season, gender, age group, category etc
Past experiences from buyers selling patterns and market response etc
Can be selected for production with modification
Mainly to inspire them directing them to a new trend
They make samples and show these samples in buyers meeting then buyer choose some sample
according to their need with modification if required, and gives order for development samples.

2.2. TESTING DEPARTMENT
Pearl Global has its own testing lab for some tests these are
Fabric count and construction
Color matching with the help of spectrometer
PH testing
Color fastness to washing
Color fastness to crocking (rubbing)
Appearance to washing
Shrinkage testing
GSM checking

2.3. TRIMS DEPARTMENT
After confirmation of purchase order, Merchant gives the trim sheet to department manager Mr.
Sachin for sourcing of trims. He gives the order to different suppliers and after getting Performa
invoice, he decide for purchase order to particular supplier, sometime supplier are nominated by
the buyers especially in terms of threads, zippers and labels. He gives order of required quantity
+5%extra for wastage.
17

PROCESS FLOW CHART




LEAD TIME:-
For button 12-15 days
Lace 12-15 days
Labels 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier)
REQUISITION FOR THE TRIMS
COLLECT ORDER DETAILS
ORDER CONFIRMATION

PERFORMA INVOICE

TRIMS BOOKING
COUNTER SAMPLE APPROVAL
ORDER IN BULK
TRIMS IN HOUSE
RECEIVING OF TRIM SHEET FROM
MERCHANT (MATERIAL INDENT )
)
18

Thread 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier e.g. Vardhman and Pasupati)
Zipper 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier e.g. YKK)
Elastic 12-15 days
After receiving of goods store manager counts all material manually and then sends to production
department.
MATERIAL INDENT
It is an internal document issued to Accessory Dept, for sourcing the required accessory and trims for the
style.

2.4. FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT
This department starts its work when the quality is approved from buyer side and the
merchandiser feeds the initial information like purchase order, quantity, and size wise breakup. On
the basis of this purchase order and various inputs like fabric requirement, shades, etc. the fabric
sourcing department prepares a requisition for the fabric as per the demands of the buyer and
raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. Sourcing department deals with getting information
about material from different sources and then select the best material which suits their budget
and buyers specification. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed upon
the following basis:
Quality.
Lead time/delivery
Price
Then the factory may send the yarn from store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy raw
for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics development
receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the specified time
period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% Extra goods are supplied by
the vendor.
Fabric sourcing means sourcing the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyers specifications.
Fabric sourcing dept is quite important as more than 90% of garment is fabric and approximately
70% cost of garment is due to fabric.
Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyers specification is very important otherwise it
may lead to cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing
19

dept gets the sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending to buyer for
approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk production. On the
time of delivery each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, colour,
GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before they are store.
Documents used in sourcing dept:
Quotation sheet
FPO
JPO
Main responsibilities of this department include:
Determination of the requirements.
Decision on the process parameters.
Decision on best deal of fabric













20


REQUISITION FOR THE FABRIC
(QUATION SHEET)
90
ORDER CONFIRMATION

PERFORMA INVOICE


FABRIC PURCHASE ORDER


FABRIC PURCHASE ORDER


ORDER FOR INITIAL BULK
COUNTER APPROVAL
ORDER IN BULK
FABRIC IN HOUSE
RECEIVING OF FABRIC
REQUIREMENT PROGRAM (FP) FROM
MERCHANT
PERFORMA INVOICE FOR
PROCESSING
ORDER OF BULK PROCESSING
PROCESSED FABRIC IN HOUSE
INSPECTION OF RAW FABRIC

FABRIC PRO REQ (QUATION SHEET)

ORDER CONFERMATION

JOB PROCESSING ORDER(JPO)

INSPECTION
ISSUE TO PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
COUNTER APPROVAL
21

2.5. FABRIC STORAGE DEPARTMENT

Fabric sourcing and storage department does their work together, but this department starts its
work when fabric comes in-house or fabric store, they inspect both raw and processed fabric, with
machines and manually, when they do all their work then they give report to sourcing department
about status of fabric . For inspection, they follow 4 point system and the fabric received and the
fabric issued details are fed into the SAP software. There are different register for record that
maintains all the information about fabric that comes in the store and that are issued to any
merchant.

STORAGE OF FABRIC
Fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas:
1. Checked fabric
2. Unchecked Fabric
They are further segregated on the basis of style no. And lot wise. The fabric is put in racks with
the help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to make
the fabric whenever needed in future.

2.6. FABRIC INSPECTION
In order to accomplish complete control on the quality of the finished product, it is imperative to
have stringent quality checks on the raw material. Pearl Global quality control procedures based
on AQL 4 point system are laid out based on which all fabrics that come into the warehouse are
screened and categorized.
The fabric being the main contributor to the development of final product i.e. the garment, it is
very important to a control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and variations present in it.
Identifications of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce
the production time. So once the fabric is in-housed it is immediately sent to the inspection area.
TYPES OF INSPECTION
Raw fabric inspection
Processed fabric inspection
22

Formula used in inspection
In Yard= Defects Points*3600 /Length* Width
In Meter = Defects Points10,000 /Length* Width
9.44 yard = 1 meter
They accept fabric if raw fabric has maximum 28 point and processed fabric has maximum 40
points
Other defects considered in the fabric store are:
OIL STAINS
WEAVING DEFECTS
DEAD COTTON
PATCHY
BOWING and SKEWNESS
Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which
gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large
poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The graders are as follows-
A CLASS: NO defects, Fabric can be used.
B/MENDED CLASS: Defect are present but under acceptance level, can be mended to first
class by subsequent processing, Fabric to be cut care.
C CLASS: Fabric to be negotiated with supplier.
D CLASS: Rejected defects are present beyond acceptance level, Fabric not to be used.

Main responsibilities
Checking in proper manner.
In case there is C and D category in passed lot, should be recheck again and rechecking
report need to be made.
Lab report along with fabric checking report should be given to fabric sourcing manager as
well as merchandiser.
No fabric issued to cutting without QA sign.
Knit fabric check in kilograms.
23

Receive fabrics
Start
Conduct shrinkage
test on minimum 2
bits/bale or minimum
10 bits of consignment
Forward one meter of
each consignment for
lab test
Verify whether quantity
received match with
quantity ordered
Inform to stores and prepare
goods received note (in case of
imported fabric)
Inspection based on four
points system. Match
bulk with approved dye
lot, width of fabric etc.
Name shade lot as ABC
Send to merchant for buyers
approval
If approved
Forward to
cutting dept.
End
Reject lot
If No
If No
If No
If Yes
If Yes
If Yes


























24

2.7. OUTSOURCING DEPARTMENT
This department has the job of sourcing work from outside the unit. Outsourcing may be required
for any task. Even if the company has the capacity to do it, it may not be able to do it if the
particular section/machine is busy some other task, these all are the responsibilities of
outsourcing department who get these job done from outside. For example in Pearl Global they do
this for embroidery because they do not have embroidery machines.

2.8. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
This department is headed by Mr. Madav. Pearl Global has a big sampling room, and this
department directly coordinates with the merchandising department and production department,
In any export house, the sampling department plays a vital role in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling
is done to see how the product will look alike when produced in bulk and to check whether any
discrepancies in the pattern are there or not. Patterns are made according to the buyers
specification.
A sample is a prototype of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is also
called mock up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment.
Sampling is a set of procedure follotheyd to produce various sample styles. It contains activities
like making of pattern for prototypes according to measurement of produce sample with the help
of machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce, there are different categories
of samples like
Proto/Development sample
Fit sample
Testing samples
Preproduction sample
Sealer samples
TOP sample
Ad sample
Photo samples etc
Proto/Development sample-
This is first development of any sketch sheet. Three piece are made in similar kind of fabric and
trims.
25


Fit sample-
If buyer likes development sample, the he provide the size chart, now that sample is made
according to that measurement and sizes. Fit samples are normally made in base size or
sometimes as per buyer specification.

Testing samples-
Testing samples are made for tests e.g. FPT, GPT etc.

Preproduction sample-
Preproduction samples are made with actual fabric, actual trims and actual measurements;
Merchant approves all these things from buyer one by one and keeps record with him for
reference and as a proof for the time of inspection. These are made in all sizes and all colors that
are required before but actual production as name indicate it.

Sealer samples-
Comes from buyer side, through PP samples that merchant sent to buyer, these samples are
reference sample for production and inspection.

TOP sample-
Top of production samples are sample that merchant sends to buyer and he takes these from
production, these are first six piece of production, merchant sends these sample because method
of stitching and all in sampling and production are different.
Ad sample
Samples make for advertisement are called ad sample.
Photo shoot samples
Samples make for photo shoot on models etc are called photo sample.
MAIN FUNCTIONS
Two main functions of sampling dept are:
1. To cater the buyer
2. New Development
26

TO CATER THE BUYER
In this method first a Tec-Pack or Garment Specification Sheet (GSS) is given by the buyer and then
on the basis of this GSS Patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of these patterns
fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send to the buyer. On the
basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the sampling dept starts
producing samples. These samples are then send to the buyer through merchandiser for his
approval as per the sequence shown in the above.
NEW DEVELOPMENT
In this method a new design is developed by the designer of the company. Before developing a
new design forecasting is done. By this forecasting they come to know that which colour,
embroidery, type of fabric, silhouette, and texture etc will be like by the fabric in the upcoming
season. This new design is then send to the buyer and if buyer likes the design; he may place an
order of the same design or with some modification in the new design. Once the order is placed by
the buyer, the sampling dept starts producing samples. These samples are then sent to the buyer
through merchandiser for his approval.

MAIN ACTIVITIES
The main activities of the department are:
SAMPLE REQUEST
Firstly the sampling request originates from buyer to merchant; it can be come in the form of tech
pack or development sample, then sampling requests are approved by MM/GM. The evaluation is
basically analyzed on the possibility of executing within timeframe with the given resources and
Checking/Identifying material availability, for this purpose, Merchant makes TNA and they contact
with sourcing department, to know about the availability of material and also they get clarification
from buyer so as to make the request complete in terms of understanding. After all they take
decision on sample request.

SAMPLE FABRIC- WORK ORDER CREATION
Firstly merchant contact to sourcing dept or store, to see required fabric is available in stores or
not. If available then he gets fabric from their otherwise he sends his runner to arrange fabric from
local market like as Nehru place.
27

For this he gives clear information like quality/colors/reference fabrics /quantity required etc. If
modification is requested by sourcing, amendment or clarification is done by merchant.
Merchant discuss approximate cost & lead time details with MM/GM.
Reconfirmation with buyer is done, if required
Proceed to sample cost sheet
COSTING OF SAMPLE
Cost sheet is created by merchant and approved by MM. Cost sheet consists following details
Fabric cost/qty
Accessories cost
Any special process cost
Cut & make cost
Others - courier /transportation etc














28

Tech pack received from merchant
Develop patterns
Costing CAD
marker
Develop sample
Develop fit/proto sample
Revise Fit/Proto
sample
PP sample
Revise PP sample Size set sample
Incorporate buyer
comments
Sealer sample
Incorporate buyer
comments
Bulk production
(shrinkage to be
added if its a wash
program)
If no comments
If no comments
If no comments
If no comments
If any comments
comments
If any comments
comments
If any comments
comments
If any comments
comments
Fig 3: Workflow of sampling

29

2.9. CAD DEPARTMENT

Buyer gives the size chart for all the size of garment to the merchandising department before
development sample, then the size chart reaches the sampling department for development
sample and fit sample. The base pattern is prepared by the sampling department for these
samples, after fit sample that size chart forward to CAD department for grading. Now the base
pattern is digitized and brought on the computer. Here grading is done to develop pattern of all
size required sizes. The department has
Two CAD labs
Two digitizers
Four computers
Two plotters
After getting purchase order, they do marker planning; they transfer pattern file from Modaris
software to Diaminos software through variant folder for markers efficiency this is done to
achieve maximum possible efficiency. The efficiency obtained depends on the style of garment
that varies from80%-86%. In normal style 82% efficiency is ok, but they try to achieve more
efficiency for their profit purpose. The software used for pattern grading are Modaris of Lectra
System Ltd and PDS of Garber system Ltd, and they use Diamino 4.2C2 for average and marker
efficiency.









Receive patterns
from pattern
master
Digitize pattern
to feed in
Receive spec
sheet form
30




















2.10. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit level.
Production is an act of producing a product i.e quantity obtained by multiplying two quantities together
by making use of available resources. To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input
resources or raw material or output goods and services is known as productivity are reciprocally related
to each other.
Therefore an increase in production leads to the fall in cost and rise in profit.
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Pattern correction
Pattern grading
Cut ratio
planning
Market planning
according to the
cut plan ratio
Output mini
marker to
printer
Output marker
to plotter
Send to cutting
room for cutting
Send to
merchandiser for
costing
Output to
plotter
Pattern sent to
merchandiser for
sampling
WORK FLOW
IN CAD
DEPARTMENT

31

The job of production manager is to discuss Operation bulletin, machine layout and manpower with
production in charge and coordinate with the production contractor explaining him the details of piece
rate, final deadline, OT incentives (which is decided by GM of the company after discussing with other
managers.
FLOOR IN CHARGE
The job of floor in charge is to collect sealer sample from production manager and make reference
based sealer sample to display in each batch and to coordinate during production and ensure peak
production. He also delegates work to the both floor to the respective supervisors.
SUPERVISOR
The Supervisor is responsible for making and receiving the approved templates and profiles from
feeding helpers for running style and giving all the planning for the production setting.
OPERATOR
The job of the operator is to perform the operation with desired quality and good efficiency.
FEEDING HELPERS
The cut panels are loaded onto the machine and given to the operator bundle wise by the feeding
helper. They also monitor bundle movement by maintaining the bundle loading register.

2.11. CUTTING AND BUNDLING DEPARTMENT

This department is headed by Mr. Kuldeep Singh, the cutting department provides cut parts to
the all production floors. The main details are as follows:
The cutting department spreads fabric manually.
Length of fabric spreading tables is 18 meters but they spread only 6-7 meters in layers
according to size ratio.
There are 9 straight knives and 1 band knife.
There are 2 fusing machines
They bundle pieces in the quantity of 10 after ticketing.
They spread a brown paper on table before lying of fabric on table.

32











Yes

No




Yes

NO

Acquire fabric from
fabric store
Cut sample to
check
Require
Checking
Cut for initial size
set
Assemble and
check
Require
changes
Issue job
order
Send to CAD for
Change
Receive changed
pattern from CAD
WORK FLOW IN
CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting package
from production
manager
33













2.12. SEWING DEPARTMENT

Pearl Global has assembly line system, they have lines and 40 machines in each line. and in
their production manpower they have
20% skilled labor for critical operations
30% semiskilled labor
50% unskilled labor for simple operations e.g. side seams.
They have different type of machines in sewing department, that are mentioned in annexure
no---
Production capacity of PGL unit no. 446 is 6000 piece per day. Average time of sewing a
garment is 25-40 minute. SMV department gives actual time for stitching of a particular
garment. And through time and motion study production department sets the sequence of
operations and number of operations. To remove all production related problems management
team held a pre production meeting, people that are involve in production from any of
department all attend this meeting and discuss on production related issues.

MAIN RESPONSIBILITIES
Bulk cutting
Sorting
Cut plan
Bundling
Issue
34

Main responsibilities of this department are
They should follow lead time.
Operations strength in terms of seams strength, buttons holes strength and other this
kind of operation should be according to buyer requirements.
Placement of parts should be on correct place.
Operation sequence also should be correct for saving of time.
In terms of stitching, right person should be on right job because of garment finishing.








35






Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from
cutting
End line checking & AQL
audit
Assembly
Sewing process begins
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Measurement checking
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out
End
In-Line
checking
Washing
36

2.13. WASHING DEPARTMENT

In the washing department, Firstly fabrics are washed for the shrinkage tests and then final garments
after completion of all processes are also washed and given certain required washing finishes according
to buyer requirements and tech. packs. After wash, the garments are sends to finishing department that
is near to washing department.
These are different type of in-house washes
Dip:-with simple water
NID/Normal wash:-with simple water and detergent
Softener/Silicon wash:-for softness of garment
Perk wash:-to remove oily stain
Enzyme wash:-discolor to denim fabric
Stone wash:-for softness
Sand Blast:-discolor to different type of fabrics

2.14. PRESSING DEPARTMENT
Pressing in general is shaping the assembled material with pressure, with /without heat and/or
moisture for further processing. In case of knits this is important but not as significant as in the
case of wovens because of their property of excellent recovery and fit. Then the ironing of the
garments takes place on the steam boards with steam ironing machine. The patterns of the size
of the garments and then pressed. This is done so that if there are any measurement
discrepancies, they can be set or removed by stretching or contracting while steam pressing the
knits. This ensures one final and equal look within one size of the garment.

2.15. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
After assembly, the garments now come for finishing a key stage of garment manufacturing
process .finishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality standards of the
buyer before packing it for shipment.
37


PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING
After washing garment goes to finishing department, in this department workers remove the
extra threads from garment Manually with the help of trimming scissor, thats called thread
cutting or trimming and then they checks spots or stains and remove these stains with the help
of spotting guns, they also removes the paper type things that comes because of ticketing and
bundling process, after that they sends these garment to pressing department for pressing.

2.16. PACKING DEPARTMENT
In packing department they pack garments according to buyer requirements, they do different
type of packing e.g.
Roll pack
Umbrella pack
Fold pack
Hanger pack
Flat pack
Half fold pack
Ratio pack Blister pack
MAIN FUNCTION
To follow required packing style and quantity.
To seal curtain in the proper way.

2.17. INSPECTIONS DEPARTMENT
Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC's working under the
subcontractors. It is the supplier's responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all
buyers quality standards and requirements.

38

DIFFERENT TYPES OF INSPECTIONS:

INITIAL INSPECTION:
It is important that the QC team carries out initial inspections after a trial cutting of 150 -600
pieces covering all sizes and colors. This is to ensure conformance to requirements. This
inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At this stage it is still
possible to find and solve problems without causing any major disturbance in the production.
Information about an order's planned production start and finish is to be given to the
production manager

INLINE INSPECTION:
The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of production, the
agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. The approved counter sample, and its
duplicates, must be present at all stages of production. Information regarding style,
measurements, accessories etc must be available for everyone.
All problems identified during inline inspections, must be corrected immediately by the supplier
and must not be present at the time of the next QC inspection.
The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during
production e.g.
Cutting: - parts and panels size conformance, fabric defects.
Pre-assembly: - general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. Stitching, linking,
collars, sleeves, position of pockets.
Assembly: - general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking,
pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes.
Finishing/pressing: - overall workmanship, pressing appearance and measurements.

GENERAL CHECKING:
39

After washing, the garment comes for general checking relating to overall stitching. Here, first
the general visual appearance is studied which includes shape of the garment, balancing of the
parts, color variations etc. then any seaming defects are recognized for example unmade
seams, missed stitches etc. As per requirement the checked pieces are sent for mending in the
assembly line. The production manager gives a TOP sample to the checkers as a visual aid.

MEASUREMENT AND FINAL CHECKING/INSPECTION:
This is the final and most stringent checking done for garment measurements, appearance,
labels, trims etc. to study the final look and shape of the product produced. Measurements are
done according to the specification sheets and recordings are made for any variations in the
measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality of the garment being produced.
Finally, all the good garments are counted recorded and sent to the packing tables.
Because final inspection is the stage of inspection when the garment is going to packing, this is
very important to inspect garment very carefully, to remove all reasons of rejections and
buyers discounts. On this stage garment should be check from every point of view from fabric
construction to pressing.
MAIN FUNCTION OF DEPARTMENT
To follow the approvals and maintains quality on that required level.
Time to time checking of garment in terms of quality, quantity and construction.
The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during
production.

2.18. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT
The human resource department is involved with managing the most important resource of the
apparel industry that is manpower.

MAIN FUNCTION
HR planning and budget.
40

Performance appraisal
Staff motivation
Employee retaining
Welfare Activities.

2.19. MARKETING/MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

This department is headed by Mr. Pankaj Bhasin, this department coordinates between the
buyer and the whole company. The primary concern of an apparel firm is to provide a product
line that will meet the needs of the selected target market and produce a profit so the firm can
grow. The product line is the primary responsibility of merchandising. Merchandising is
planning, developing, and presenting product line (s) for identified target market(s) with regard
to pricing, assortment, styling, and timing. Merchandising is the central coordinating point for
the product line. This department works in conjunction with various other supporting
departments.
There are basically two types of merchandising in Pearl Global.
Marketing merchandising:
The merchandiser approaches buyer with the sample developed by the design department and
receives production order for the same.
Main function of marketing merchandising are :
Product development
Costing
Ordering
Product merchandising:
In which the buyer contact the merchandiser and send their samples for the production.
Product merchandising includes all responsibilities from sample request confirmation to
shipment as follows:
Product development
41

Market and Product analysis
Booking Orders
Confirming deliveries and sampling
Costing
Raw material
Flow monitoring and delivering samples to buyer
Production follow ups
Documentation
Payment follows
Shipment
Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A merchant is the
person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is central or integral part of a
garment industry.
Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendors
company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of
garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and up
to shipment of the order. A merchant involves coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He
has to take care of quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to which
the merchant is liable for some percentage in the company profit.

MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES
Order booking and Receiving all detailed information -from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality
and fiber content, trim requirements and quality color details and various other details like washing,
printing, embroideries etc.
Capacity fulfilment-Fabric and accessories booking- Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if
any, confirm price, category, delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.
Sample arrangement- Make proto types, coordinate with Research & Development team, find fabric
costing and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage
etc.
42

Delivery on time to buyer- Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action
calendar, prepare the fabric and trim indent.
Test reports- Coordinate with R&D and IE for further detailed R&D reports, coordinate with PPC for
production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.

Production detail preparation- Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take
care of the budget at each stage.

Shipping detail preparation- merchandiser works with shipping dept for booking vessel and other
mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing necessary
document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and accessory.

Merchandiser should take lot approval and all these type of approval means each and every thing that
they use in a particular garment style they should take approval from buyer for reference and he take it
as a proof on the time of inspection, so therefore from every roll and lot swatch is taken firstly, it is
observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for approvals and after approvals cutting go
head will be given to the factory.
Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has to do
costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till shipment date and it is called as Time and
Action Calendar (T & A Calendar ).
Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is compactly
prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and trims/accessories to get on-time
deliveries, from suppliers in-house and other T & A for internal working for prompt working for style.
Before starting the costing for a style, merchandiser has to consider the following:
Fabric Average
Labour Expenses (Calculated with the help of SMV )
Thread Consumption
Trims and Accessories Cost
Cut Make cost (CM)
Finishing
43

Packaging
Margin
Exchange Rate

COSTING
The most important function of the merchandising dept is to calculate the total cost of the garment. It is
the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also negotiate the cost of
production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be such that it suits the buyer and
also the Export House. At the Preproduction stage initial costing is done so as to get an idea of the cost
likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, make up
cost, overhead expenses and the margin of the company. After the buyer has placed his order and
production sample is approved then the final costing is done. The final costing uses fabric average from
CAD, cost of fabric and trims etc.
INTERNAL INDENT-It is an internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual
costing given to the buyer and companys costing

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT











ORDER CONFIRMATION
PURCHASE ORDER
DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE
TIME AND ACTION
PLAN
COSTING
44
































FIT SAMPLE
TRIM ORDER
COMMENT
FABRIC ORDER
INTERNAL CHECKING
AND TESTING
INTERNAL CHECKING
AND TESTING(FPT)

APPROVEL FROM
BUYER

APPROVEL FROM
BUYER

SUBMISSION OF
REVISED FIT SAMPLE IF
REQUIRED/ COMMENT

GARMENT
PERFORMANCE TEST
PP SAMPLE/COMMENT
PREPRODUCTION
MEETING
FINAL INSPECTION
TRIMS IN HOUSE
FABRIC IN HOUSE
FINAL INSPECTION

VESSELS BOOKING REPORT TO
MERCHANDISER
REPORT TO
MERCHANDISER

R & D, SMV AND
OPERATION BREAKDOWN
PRODUCTION-CUTTING,
SEWING AND FINISHING
ETC
FILES HANDOVR TO
PRODUCTION DEPT

45































SUBMISSION OF TOP
SAMPLE/COMMENT
PACKING, INSPECTION
SHIPMENT
PAYMENT
46



PROJECT
WASTE MINIMIZATION AND REWORK REDUCTION

PEARL GLOBAL LTD

SUBMITTED BY
KAPIL KUMAR
MASTER OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY


SUBMITTED TO


National Institute of Fashion Technology
New Delhi, (Ministry of Textiles)
Department of Fashion Technology

47

3. PROJECT
3.1. Waste minimization
3.1.1. OBJECTIVES:
To define wastage and outline the challenges to control it
To calculate wastage of each department through study of styles
To identify the stages of wastage
To find waste percentage and cost lost in wastage through costing sheet
To develop formats on wastage for each department and the costing sheet

3.1.2. Research methodology:









3.1.3. Literature review
What is wastage?
Waste is purchased raw material which is subsequently not sold as product.
Waste costs money. Reducing the amount of waste the company produces will increase profits
and help the company to remain competitive.


Collecting Data from different department
Analyzing data
Calculation of different losses
Finding areas of improvement
Suggesting improvements
48

Waste classification
Overproduction -- Manufacture of products in advance or in excess of demand wastes
money, time and space.
Waiting -- Processes are ineffective and time is wasted when one process waits to begin
while another finishes. Instead, the flow of operations should be smooth and
continuous. According to some estimates, as much as 99 percent of a product's time in
manufacture is actually spent waiting.
Transportation -- Moving a product between manufacturing processes adds no value, is
expensive and can cause damage or product deterioration.
Inappropriate processing -- Overly elaborate and expensive equipment is wasteful if
simpler machinery would work as well.
Excessive inventory wastes resources through costs of storage and maintenance.
Unnecessary motion -- Resources are wasted when workers have to bend, reach or walk
distances to do their jobs. Workplace ergonomics assessment should be conducted to
design a more efficient environment.
Defects -- Inspecting and quarantining inventory takes time and costs money.

WASTAGE STAGES











FABRIC SOURCED FROM OUTSIDE
FABRIC ISSUED TO CUTTING
PCS CUT
CUT PIECES ISSUED TO BUNDLING
PCS ISSUED FROM BUNDLING TO SEWING
PCS FROM PRODUCTION TO FINISHING
PCS ISSUED TO PACKING
49

REASONS FOR WASTAGES

FABRIC STORE: Fabric must be inspected properly. Though 100% inspection is difficult but the
10% inspection that is done should be done religiously as a lot of fabric defects do find their
way to production floor.

SPREADING: Some defects are detected at time of spreading but some minor defects get
undetected.
Also since manual spreading is done which is prone to errors. End cutters are not used and
fabric is torn by hand which may lead to fabric skewing, bowing and frayed edges.Three
operators are used for spreading one for spreading, one for holding and one for aligning. Even
the use of simple roll stand traveler can reduce the need of holding operator.

CUTTING: Cutting wastage may come from marker utilization, extra cut percentage, end bits
and remnants. Roll width is not properly utilized. Cut order planning is done only on the basis of
the sizes which are required to be shipped first. Roll length and roll width are not taken into
consideration, markers made on minimum width.

TICKETING & BUNDLING: Most of the cutting defects are passed off no proper checking at time
of bundling. While ticketing some pieces may not get ticketed or wrongly ticketed.

SEWING: While sewing if operator founds the piece to be defective it should be disposed off
right at that time and should not be preceded for further operation. But operator gets involved
in his own work so much that some minor defects usually get undetected.


FINISHING: fit/ measurement defects, trim defects, spots, pressing defects.

WASHING: Wastage due to loss or misplaced pieces while transportation.


3.1.4. Case study: Fabric Wastage and lost pieces estimation and control measures:
Fabric comprises at least 50% of the garment cost and the best fabric utilization is to use every
inch of what you buy, converting it into garments and ultimately into earnings.
To evaluate the amount of wastage happening at various stages and its reasons, study was
conducted on 3 styles.
BUYER GAP

GAP INDITEX (Pull & Bear)
STYLE NO. #882639 #857945 #V1185
50

GARMENT DARTED DRESS TOP DRESS SHIRT DRESS TOP WITH
FRILLS

To establish and identify the major areas of waste. Orders were thoroughly investigated in the
factory. The results of which have been presented here:


The results show that of the total fabric bought for an order only 82% is being used effectively
the remaining 18% is being lost in one way or the other.
The major contributors to this loss are :-



51

Style Style 1:
#882639 GAP
Style 2
#857945 GAP
Style 3
# V-1185 Pull & Bear
Color Grey print Green print Sulphur Petroleum Green
Order quantity
(No. of pieces)
13140 13722 7510 10840 10840
Marker avg. estimated 0.9 0.9 1.75 1.58 1.58
Required fabric
(yards)
11826 12349.8 13142.5 17127.2 17127.2
Fabric
store
(yards)
Fabric ordered 13670 14275 14400 22024 18206
Fabric received 13635 14265 14452 22020 18206
Issued to
cutting -11553 -12220
-13124
-17674.6

-17222.5
Fabric left in
stock
2082 2045
1328

4345.35

983.55

Cutting
(No. of pieces)
14395 14395 7849 11496 11353
Bundling
(No. of pieces)
14395 14395 7849 11496 11353
Sewing
(No. of pieces)
14122 14934 7849 11496 11353
Finishing
(No. of pieces)
13140 13753 7635 10840 10842
Shipped
(No. of pieces)
13125 13725 7624 10840 10840
Findings sheet
52

Dead stock
It is the fabric that is left in your stores after the order has been shipped. This is mostly the
result of over cautious buying. No one wants to be blamed for short shipment and so there are
lots of stages where extra percentages are added.
As an example the Pattern master calculates consumption on medium size (2 mtr) and adds
extra approximately 10 cm to compensate for large sizes a further 3 to 5% is added for cutting
wastages and 2% for shrinkage and defects. The fabric is ordered and a further 5% is added
since the buyer allows a potential 5% to be over-shipped.

Cut to Ship Ratio:
This ratio represents the number of garments shipped against number of garments cut. The cut
to ship ratio varies between 95% and 99%. 6 of the factories achieved a ratio of 96/97% with
only two of them achieving acceptable delivery percentages.

Finding out cut to ship ratio:











Lost Fabric Data

Finding out how much of total fabric is ordered and what %age of it actually ended up as
shippable garment
From the rest %age, cutting loss %age, rejection %age, and dead stock %age is
determined and rest is misplaced or lost fabric %age


Style no. Cut
pieces
Shipped
pieces
Cut to ship
ratio
Loss %
#882639
GAP
Grey print 14395 13195 91.70% 8.30%
Green
print
14395 13725 95.35% 4.65%
#857945
GAP
sulphur 7849 7624 97.13% 2.87%
#V1185
Pull &
Bear
Petroleum 11496 11353 98.76% 1.24%
Green 10840 10840 100% 0
Total 17.06%
53

#882639 #857945 #V1185
Consumption

0.9

1.75

1.58
Pattern master
(allowances)
10 cm 1 10 cm 1.85 10 cm 1.68
Cutting wastage
3% 1.03 3% 1.906 3% 1.73
Shrinkage
1% 1.0403 1% 1.925 2.5% 1.77


#882639 #857945 #V1185
Fabric required 24176 13142.5 37318.5
Fabric Bought 27900 14452 40452
Fabric accounted for 26850 *0.9 = 7624*1.75= 21680*1.58=
24165 13342 34254.4
Fabric Unaccounted for
or lost
3735 1110 6197.6
% loss 13.39% 7.60% 15.32%

54

*overproduction loss is not included
Fabric Utilization
style
Fabric
required
Fabric
Received
Fabric
accounted
for
Fabric
Unaccounted
for or lost % loss
utilization
% KPI
#882639 24176 27900 24165 3735
13.39%
86.612903 87
#857945 13142.5 14452 13342 1110
7.60%
92.319402 92
#V1185 37318.5 40452 34254.4 6197.6
15.32%
84.679126 85
Avg KPI for fabric utilization 12.10333 87.870477 88

In this case the loss is 13% of the total fabric bought, this fabric is either dead stock, lost in
cutting room, lost as reject garments or arrived short on rolls from mill. However, once the
shipment leaves we revel in the fact that we have sent more than order qty instead of realizing
the fact that we actually bought extra 5% fabric but not converted it into earnings.







55


Overproduction loss
Manufacture of products in advance or in excess of demand wastes money, time and
space.
Style Style 1: Style 2 Style 3
#882639 #857945 # V-1185
Color Grey print Green print Sulphur Petroleum Green unit
Order quantity 13140 13722 7510 10840 10840
no. of
pcs
Cutting 14395 14395 7849 11496 11353
no. of
pcs
Sewing 14122 14934 7849 11496 11353
no. of
pcs
extra produced 982 1212 339 656 513
no. of
pcs
overproduction
% 7.47% 8.83% 4.51% 6.05% 4.73%
avg 16.30% 4.51% 10.78% 6.94%





56

3.1.5. case study: Cutting loss analysis
The Cutting room is one of the most important departments in the factory; The staff in many of
the departments need to be Fabric Conscious. An improvement of 2-3% in utilization
efficiency can make a huge difference to bottom line profitability. Comprehensive fabric
reconciliation is essential; to see this vital aspect in their controls.
Width control
Lets start with this aspect, I was once told that if you can save 1% in width then you will save
1% in length, this of course is not consistently true but it is a fact that on some markers a
considerable difference in the marker length can be achieved if an additional 1cm can be gained
on width. So it is essential that fabric is PROPERLY measured for width when it arrives, and of
course the width that is measured is from selvedge to selvedge. At this time it is also necessary
to split the newly arrived fabric into two more categories, shade and shrinkage, and if this is
done correctly then we can choose specific groups and match them to lays so that all of the
fabric used in one lay conforms to the same specifications.

Wider width fabric and narrower width fabric kept together in a lay, no width wize segragation
for fabric.
57


Marker made to the lowest width leading to loss in fabric

Benefit of Fabric Width Utilization in Factory
Style No: #103852 GAP
Width variation found in the fabric 153 cm to 156 cm.
The marker was made on minimum width.
Marker width taken as 142 cm for shell fabric

For lining fabric width variation found to be 120 to 121 cm
Marker was made as 118.5 width:
58


Remnant Markers and End bit Administration: factory cut garments from remnants (End bits)
but they are frequently saved to cut part changes and the remaining fabric is wasted. It must be
made mandatory to use all the remnants to cut garments before the last marker and part
changes were done only from off cuts. The final comparison between costed/buying and
achieved consumption will be considerably improve.

Recommendations
1. Accurate Fabric reconciliations to be completed for each order,
2. Standard times for each process must be established,
3. An operator monitoring system needs to be introduced,
4. Cutting room layout and the workflow can be improved,
5. End pieces and remnants should be properly managed,
6. Markers should be made as per the fabric width.
7. Work transportation trolleys and other work aids should be introduced,








59

3.1.6. case study: Lost Time calculation

Lost time is described as Time lost by operators for which they are not responsible. It can be
used to monitor the effectiveness of line balancing, service by mechanics, and all other delays
that cause the operator to lose productivity. Company does not utilize this tool adequately.

If the factory made an attempted to record lost time; they will be able to reap substantial
benefits from monitoring lost time and identifying areas of improvement in system to achieve
the full potential.

M/A Ratio Study in Factory

This is a study to establish what the operators are capable of: M = Measured (Timed)

I timed each operation for 3-5 cycles to get the time taken by the operator.

The measured time = 34.93minutes + 20% allowances = 41.91 minutes

An allowance of 20% was added to the measured time for all contingencies.

A = Achieved. This is the average time taken to produce the garment.

Total no. of people working on the style: 52,
working 8 hours a day,
the production output per hour=46 pieces.

The actual line out time to make a garment is 63minutes.

The M/A ratio is 41.916 / 63.16 x 100 = 66.4%

33.6% of the operator time is lost,

Some of the reasons being:
Poor line balancing resulting in waiting time.
Poor work flow, and Poor supervisory control.








60

STYLE # 857945 OPERATION BREAKDOWN
PEARL GLOBAL
LIMITED
DESCRIPTION: SHIRT DRESS


BUYER GAP
S. No. PART operatrs Operation Description ATTACH M/CS SMV
TGT AT
100%
1 COLLAR 1 MARK PRESS COLLAR TEM IRON 0.45 133
2 1 RUN STITCH COLLAR SN 0.6 100
3 1 TURN PRESS COLLAR IRON 0.45 133
4 1 TOP STITCH AT COLLAR SN 0.6 100
5 2 ATTACH COLLAR TO COLLAR BAND SN 0.85 71
6 CUFF 1 MARK CUFF HD 0.45 133
7 2 RUN STITCH CUFF SN 0.75 80
8 SLEEVE 1 JOINT PIPING SN 0.45 133
9 1 SEW SLIT BINDER SN 0.5 120
10 1 TACK END OF SLIT SN 0.45 133
11 1 SEW PLETE AT SLEVE SN 0.6 100
12 BACK 1 SEW GATHER AT BACK SHERRIN SN 0.45 133
13 1 ATTACH BACK YOKE SN 0.6 100
14 FRONT 1 FOLD BUTTON PLACKET SN 0.5 120
15 1 CREASE FRONT PLACKET TEM IRON 0.45 133
16 1 FOLD BUTTON HOLE PATTI SN 0.6 100
17 1 TOP STITCH AT PLACKET SN 0.6 100
18 1 SEW GATHER AT FRONT SHOULDER SHERRIN SN 0.6 100
19 1 TACK BOTH FRONT END OF PLACKET SN 0.3 200
20 1 ATTACH SHOULDER SN 0.5 120
21 2 ATTACH COLLAR SN 0.7 86
22 2 FINISH COLLAR SN 0.88 68
23 2 ATTACH SLEEVE E/CUTERE SN 0.8 75
24 2 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.85 71
25 2 SEW SIDE SEAM E/CUTERE SN 0.75 80
26 2 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.75 80
27 POCKET 1 ATTACH POCKET FACING SN 0.6 100
28 1 SEW BAG E/CUTERE SN 0.6 100
29 1 O/LOCK AT BAG 3TOL 0.6 100
61

30 1 ATTACH BAG AT FRONT SN 0.6 100
31 1 BACK STITCH AT front SN 0.6 100
32 1 TACK BAG AT FRONT SN 0.55 109
33 1 SEW SIDE SEAM LOWER E/CUTERE SN 0.5 120
34 1 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.5 120
35 1 ATTACH UPPER TO LOWER SN 0.7 86
36 1 CUT AN JOINT ELASTIC SN 0.45 133
37 1 TACK ELASTIC AT EMPIRE SEAM SN 0.35 171
38 1 FOLD MARGIN WITH ELASTIC SN 0.66 91
39 1 ATTACH CUFF C/SETER SN 0.6 100
40 1 TOP STITCH CUFF SN 0.7 86
41 1 BOTTOM FOLD FOLDER SN 0.6 100
42 1 PREPARE LABEL SN 0.5 120
43 1 ATTACH LABEL SN 0.45 133
44 1 ATTACH W/C LABEL SN 0.45 133
45 1 SEW BUTTON HOLES BH 0.75 80
46 1 ATTACH BUTTONS BA 0.75 80

26.99



no. of m/c operators 48
mannual workers (ironers in line) 4


total workers 52




absentism 7




attended minutes 480
planned efficiency 1



62

DATE O.T Hrs
No of
Tailors
present
No. of
M/c's
TARGET
Actual
Output
Minutes
produced or
SMV Earned
attended
time(includ
ing OT)
off std time on std time
performance
%
utilization
%
efficiency
15/6/11

0
0.00 0 0
0 #DIV/0!
16/6/11

77
46 55.63 0 0.00
26700 0
17/6/11

54
41 47.75 899 100 2550
22920 18554 4366 58.405 19.048 11.125
18/6/11

123
46 61.38 1155 300 7650
29460 16362 13098 58.405 44.460 25.967
20/6/11

109
43 56.63 1066 300 7650
27180 14082 13098 58.405 48.189 28.145
21/6/11

84
42 52.50 988 310 7905.00
25200 11665.4 13534.6 58.405 53.708 31.369
22/6/11

94
37 48.75 918 400 10200
23400 5936 17464 58.405 74.632 43.589
23/6/11

100
45 57.50 1082 440 11220
27600 8389.6 19210.4 58.405 69.602 40.652
24/6/11

132
44 60.50 1139 500 12750
29040 7210 21830 58.405 75.172 43.904
25/6/11

144
46 64.00 1205 505 12878
30720 8671.7 22048.3 58.405 71.771 41.918
27/6/11

150
42 60.75 1144 500 12750
29160 7330 21830 58.405 74.862 43.724
28/6/11

116
43 57.50 1082 510 13005
27600 5333.4 22266.6 58.405 80.676 47.119
29/6/11

149
42 60.63 1141 515 13132.5
29100 6615.1 22484.9 58.405 77.267 45.128
30/6/11

140
43 60.5 400 500 13495
29040 7210 21830 61.818 75.172 46.470
01/7/11

100
45 57.5 400 500 13495
27600 5770 21830 61.8186 79.094 48.894
02/7/11

0

0
45 45 800 400 10796
21600 4136 17464 61.8186 80.851 49.981
04/7/11
45 45 800 400 10796
21600 4136 17464 61.8186 80.851 49.981
05/7/11
0 45 45 800 360 9716.4
21600 5882.4 15717.6 61.8186 72.766 44.983
06/7/11
0 45 45 800 400 10796
21600 4136 17464 61.8186 80.851 49.981
07/7/11
0 48 48 854 360 9716.4
23040 7322.4 15717.6 61.8186 68.218 42.171
08/7/11 0 39 39 694 300 8097 18720 5622 13098 61.8186 69.967 43.253

63

PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED
STYLE: shirt dress #857945 STUDIED BY: Kapil Kumar
BUYER: GAP DATE: 25-Jun
S.N. DESC. M/C TYPE
TOTAL
TIME
AVG.(basic
time)
measured
time*
Actual
L/OT time
**lost
time

1 MARK PRESS COLLAR
IRON 3.6 0.72 0.864 0.9 0.036
2 RUN STITCH COLLAR
SN 5 1 1.2 1.2 0
3 TURN PRESS COLLAR
IRON 1.65 0.33 0.396 1.04 0.644
4 TOP STITCH AT COLLAR
SN 5 1 1.2 1.22 0.02
5 ATTACH COLLAR TO COLLAR BAND
SN 4.1 0.82 0.984 1.14 0.156
6 MARK CUFF
HD 2.05 0.41 0.492 1.04 0.548
7 RUN STITCH CUFF
SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.29 0.994
8 JOINT PIPING
SN 2 0.4 0.48 1.02 0.54
9 SEW SLIT
SN 2.2 0.44 0.528 1.02 0.492
10 TACK END OF SLIT
SN 2 0.4 0.48 1.02 0.54
11 SEW PLETE AT SLEVE
SN 3.45 0.69 0.828 1.22 0.392
12 SEW GATHER AT BACK
SN 3.55 0.71 0.852 1.02 0.168
13 ATTACH BACK YOKE
SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.04 0.2
14 FOLD BUTTON PLACKET
SN 3.65 0.73 0.876 1.48 0.604
15 CREASE FRONT PLACKET
IRON 3.5 0.7 0.84 0.96 0.12
16 FOLD BUTTON HOLE PATTI
SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.35 0.51
17 TOP STITCH AT PLACKET
SN 0.65 0.13 0.156 1.13 0.974
18 SEW GATHER AT FRONT SHOULDER
SN 4 0.8 0.96 1.13 0.17
19 TACK BOTH FRONT END OF PLACKET
SN 1.5 0.3 0.36 1.12 0.76
20 ATTACH SHOULDER
SN 4.15 0.83 0.996 1.17 0.174
21 ATTACH COLLAR
SN 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.19 0.638
64

22 FINISH COLLAR
SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.44 1.144
23 ATTACH SLEEVE
SN 10.4 2.08 2.496 3.16 0.664
24 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM
SN 13.5 2.7 3.24 3.67 0.43
25 SEW SIDE SEAM
SN 2.5 0.5 0.6 1.19 0.59
26 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM
SN 2.65 0.53 0.636 1.19 0.554
27 ATTACH POCKET FACING
SN 5 1 1.2 1.25 0.05
28 SEW BAG
SN 2.8 0.56 0.672 1.34 0.668
29 O/LOCK AT BAG
3TOL 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.25 0.698
30 ATTACH BAG AT FRONT
SN 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.17 0.618
31 BACK STITCH AT front
SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63
32 TACK BAG AT FRONT
SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63
33 SEW SIDE SEAM LOWER
SN 2.45 0.49 0.588 1.26 0.672
34 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM
SN 5.1 1.02 1.224 2.13 0.906
35 ATTACH UPPER TO LOWER
SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.3 1.004
36 CUT AN JOINT ELASTIC
SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63
37 TACK ELASTIC AT EMPIRE SEAM
SN 5.1 1.02 1.224 1.12 -0.104
38 FOLD MARGIN WITH ELASTIC
SN 12.5 2.5 3 3.12 0.12
39 ATTACH CUFF
SN 7.4 1.48 1.776 2.44 0.664
40 TOP STITCH CUFF
SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.28 0.44
41 BOTTOM FOLD
SN 2.6 0.52 0.624 1.26 0.636
42 PREPARE LABEL
SN 2.5 0.5 0.6 1.04 0.44
43 ATTACH LABEL
SN 3.8 0.76 0.912 1.04 0.128
44 ATTACH W/C LABEL
SN 3.95 0.79 0.948 1.3 0.352
45 SEW BUTTON HOLES
BH 0 0 0 0 0
46 ATTACH BUTTONS
BA 0 0 0 0 0
47 TOTAL 34.93 41.916 63.16 21.244

*measured time = (basic time + 20 % allowance)

**lost time = (actual line out time - measured time)

65

Off-standard time
Off standard time is that time utilised on performing tasks to which SMVs are not allocated.

On-standard time
This is the actual time worker spent on productive work. This is calculated as the difference
between attended time and off-standard time. This should be obvious and is used in calculating
operator performance
On standard time = (Attended time Off-standard time)

Utilization
It is the time spent on productive time out of total attended time. It is the percentage of
attended time working earning Standard Minute Values [SMV].
Utilization = (On standard time / Attended time) X 100

SMV Earned
It is the measure of work done by operator. It is calculated from output from an operation
generated in attended minutes and SMV of the operation.
SMV earned = (SMV X Output in number of units)

Efficiency is directly related to both operator performance and the utilization of the operator.
Efficiency = (SMV earned on standard / attended time) X 100

Individual Operator performance
It is a measure of both the skills and motivation of the operator and calculated daily.
Performance = (SMVs earned on standard / On standard time) x 100

66

It






67



Average efficiency is 42-45%


3.1.7. Maintenance department analysis

Companies allocate one mechanic for every 100 to 120 machines. The service provided by the
mechanics is good and prompt. The mechanics are only expected to fix machines and
contribute further by offering advice on attachments and equipment. There is increased
involvement with the IE for the usage of attachments and folders.

The machines are well serviced and oil reservoirs are clean and well-maintained. A maintenance
schedule is in place but is not followed properly. Companies dont have adequate mechanics or
workshops, and if ever, space is provided for them it is inadequate and inaccessible. The
storage space for spare parts is small and holds very few spares; spare parts are ordered when
required. Companies do not have proper machine moving trolleys.

Recommendations
1. A regular maintenance schedule must be adhered to,
2. The mechanics department should have sufficient space allocated for proper workshop,
3. Spare parts store should be adequately stocked,
4. Machine moving trolleys should be provided.




68

3.1.8. Production Department analysis

No Measurement = No Management
Production problems and bottlenecks are solved by adding additional labor instead of solving
the problem that has caused the bottleneck. The major focus is to ensure that the order is
delivered on time and not the efficiency that is required to remain competitive. The most skilful
people in the organization are spending their time chasing orders and not problem solving. The
average industry efficiency is between 45-50% and certainly is not competitive in the world
market.


Clippers
Almost all the operators are working with huge scissors.
Many operators trim pieces of fabric from garment panels
that do not fit properly. If garment parts dont fit this indicates
two possible problems: (A) The garments have been poorly cut; or
(B) The patterns are wrong. It is essential that this activity is
eliminated; operators should not be allowed to trim garment parts
under any circumstances.



Recommendations
1. Bundle control systems with adequate bundle disciplines to be introduced,
2. Proper standard times and operator monitoring procedures to be established,
3. The supervisors need training to manage WIP levels,
4. The supervisors need training to do proper production monitoring and control,
5. Method Improvement procedures should be introduced,
6. Production monitoring systems should be introduced,
7. Production studies must be completed wherever poor performance is observed,
8. Lost Time information must be collected analyzed and acted upon,
9. Repair handling procedures must be revised,
10. Large inappropriate scissors must be eliminated,
11. Operators should not be allowed to trim garment parts.








69

II. Repair and rework reduction: Do it right first time


3.2.1. OBJECTIVE:
To analyze existing quality systems, trends available in the system and study its
utilization for corrective action.
Propose measures to improvise the quality system.
To study the existing quality control norms and procedure in various departments.
To make the quality monitoring process more efficient and reliable.

3.2.2. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY








3.2.3. Literature Review
Quality Department
Quality must be built-in; it cannot be examined into the product, this is a most important lesson
and should be clearly understood. Although there is a 100% quality check in the sewing floor,
an excessive number of faults find their way into finishing. Operators do not fix their mistakes
but leave them for examiners to find resulting in a high repair level.

Repairs
Repair rates are frightening giving a mixed picture varying from 5% to 60% on the production
floor. It is important for us to understand that though the product quality is being maintained
STUDY OF THE EXISTING QUALITY SYSTEM
ANALYSIS OF QUALITY CHECKPOINTS IN THE INDUSTRY
SUGGESTING WAYS TO IMPROVE PRODUCTION
IDENTIFYING PROBLEM AREAS
70

for the customer, it is being done at a huge price to the manufacturer. The check, repair, re-
check and repair can be reduced by simply improving effective communication between quality
team of different departments.
Repairs should always be given to the person who caused them, else the responsible person has
no incentive to improve.

Quality Team
Quality Teams are not completely independent of the production department, it is important to
have clear reporting procedures and to keep the quality team independent of production
management. Checkers in the line are also a part of the quality team. The Supervisor is
responsible for the output but quality decisions must be made by the quality management
team.

























71

3.2.4. EXISTING QUALITY CHECK POINTS:
























BUNDLES ISSUED TO SEWING DEPARTMENT
BUNDLES ISSUED TO SEWING LINE
CUTTING
BUNDLING
CUTTING AUDIT
FABRIC SOURCED FROM TEXTILE INDUSTRY
INSPECTION OF FABRIC BY CHECKERS
FABRIC ISSUED TO CUTTING DEPARTMENT
SPREADING
IN LINE INSPECTION AT CRITICAL POINTS
END LINE INSPECTION
WASHING
72

























QUALITY AUDIT
FINISHING
MEASUREMENT CHECKING
THREAD CUTTING
REFINAL CHECKING
FINAL CHECKING
GENERAL CHECKING
GENERAL CHECKING
MEASUREMENT CHECKING ON IRONING TABLE
THREAD CUTTING
NEEDLE DETECTION
PACKING INSPECTION
73

3.2.5. CASE STUDY: DEFECT ANALYSIS
Defects Location Dept.Responsible Causes Remedies Picture
Skip stitch Bottom hem Sewing dept Improper
thread tension
or breaking of
thread while
stitching
Maintaining
Proper thread
tension while
stitching


Uneven stitch Bottom hem Sewing dept Improper stitch
density
Proper stitch
density

Raw edges
visible
Hemline Sewing dept Improper cutting of
excess threads
Trimming off
excess or loose
threads

Raw edges
visible
Armhole Sewing dept

74

Un-uniformity
in hem width
Hemline Sewing dept Improper
cutting or
stitching
Proper cutting or
stitching

Puckering Side seams Sewing dept Improper
tension of
threads/
incorrect size of
needles
Proper thread
tension and
correct size
needle use

Misaligned
label
Under yoke Sewing Operator
inefficiency
Operator training

Unequal
hemline width
Hemline Sewing Improper care
while stitching
Proper folding
and stitching

75

Misaligned
stitch
Stitch on elastic sewing Improper handling
while stitching
Elastic should be
properly stretched
while stitching

Puckering/
curling
Side seams,
shoulder and
sleeve
attachment
area
Sewing/pressing Operator
inefficiency
/Improper
pressing
Operator training/
proper pressing

Excess fabric not
trimmed off
hem Sewing/cutting Improper handling Proper handling

Twisted seam Pressing Improper
pressing
Proper pressing

Fabric gathers
pinching
Sewing Improper cutting Proper cutting
before overlock
stitch is done

Open seam sewing Improper stitching/
sufficient fabric is not
folded/misaligned


76

Tearing /worn
out
fabric
Sewing/cutting Excess
cutting/improper
overlock stitch
Proper sewing

Uneven lace
attached
neckline sewing Improper marking Marking should be
done properly

Frayed hole fabric Spreading/ cutting Fabric defect Fabric should be
checked properly at
time of spreading

pinching sewing Improper handling of
fabric while stitching
Fabric should be
handled properly



77

DEFECT ANALYSIS
STYLE # 882639
GAP TOTAL PCS CHECKED: 100 PCS
defect description defect category
1 open seam hem & arm hole area sewing
2 wrinkle stain at lining area pressing/ washing
3 fraying thread side seam and bottom finishing (thread cutting)
4 stain at lining side washing
5 ropping , sewing
6 poor pressing at bottom side seam pressing
7 main label insecured sewing
8 wrinkle stain at lining area washing
9 open seam at bottom sewing
10 rough joint stich at arm hole sewing
11 highking at side seam cutting
12 stain at lining inside area washing
13 hole in fabric fabric
14 frayed fabric cutting

DEFECT ANALYSIS
STYLE # 44884
GAP TOTAL PCS CHECKED: 100 PCS
defect description defect category
1 pinching stitch at armhole area sewing
2 rundown stitch at bottom sleeve opening sewing
3 uncut thread at inside area finishing (thread cutting)
4 stain at lining side washing
5 color variation at front and back fabric
6 visible fusing at placket cutting
7
rundown stitch at bottom and sleeve
opening sewing
8 fraying cutting
9 uncut thread at inside area finishing (thread cutting)
10 poor pressing at overlock margin pressing
11 color variation at front and back fabric
12 sticker marks at placket washing
13 uncut thread at overlock area finishing (thread cutting)
14 open seam waist elastic sewing
15 poor pressing at overlock margin pressing
16 broken stitch at waist elastic sewing

Avg. defects per hundred units DHU is 15.


78

DEFECT # 882639 # 44884 AVG
sewing 42% 36% 39%
cutting 6% 5% 5%
fabric 5% 7% 6%
washing 21% 14% 18%
pressing 14% 12% 13%
finishing (thread
cutting) 7% 21% 14%
miscellaneous 5% 5% 5%




PROBLEMS
Lack of proper formats for tracking the defects in accessory and fabric department.
Improper fabric inspection.
Improper ply alignment and varying ply tension.
Shorter lead time and large order
No. of alterations in pieces is high
No proper system for repair control
A lot of time is spent in material handling
Piling up of huge WIP in lines
Lack of proper thread cutting machines




79

RECOMMENDATIONS
Proper training of: supervisors, operator, quality checkers.
Repairs should be given to the operator who has caused it so that he has an
incentive to improve this requires proper tracking of defects.
Defects record should be maintain and analyzed for finding root cause of defects.
Roving QC should be appointed on different production areas.


Finishing Department

Finishing departments are over-staffed, the time to finish a garment varied from 11.2 minutes to
57.6 minutes.
Finishing times are excessive in company. Company is examining the garment as many as five
times; this is driven by the fear of order rejection or rework. There is a great potential for
improvement in this department.

Repairs
Repair records show very high repair rates as much as 30-40%. Dirty marks and spots are major
contributors although many of the garments have already been washed. Spotting defects are as
high as 50%.
Recommendations
1. Bundle control system should be introduced, washed garments can be re-constituted and control
maintained.
2. Establishment of standard times and efficiency monitoring systems are essential,
3. The process sequence and work flow to be investigated,
4. A thorough investigation of repair rates and their necessary cause.
5. Properly planned workplace layouts to be introduced,
6. The factors creating stains and spotting problems should be investigated and remedies found.
CHANGES MADE

BRFORE AFTER
One of the factor causing stains is that fabrics rolls are kept open in racks in fabric store. During my
internship racks were covered which may leads to reduction in stains.
80

4. CONCLUSION
There is a great potential for improvements in controlling the amount of fabric bought, the
estimates on which fabric is purchased and as previously mentioned safety margins built- in lead
to dead stock. If the staff involved stop trying to protect themselves from errors and buy only
what is really necessary lots of money will be saved. In many cases buyers are responsible for
changing the style specifications at the last moment which contributes to these variances.
Investigation into this suggests that on an average 10% extra fabric is being bought. There is no
point in improving markers, using the width better, reducing end losses, using end bits better if
you have overbought, all you are doing is adding to dead stock. So the common place assumption
that we know how to save fabric could be untrue! It is possible that savings in the cutting room are
worthless, since you have already purchased the fabric! It is vitally important that efficient fabric
control systems are developed to monitor fabric usage from purchasing through to a final
reconciliation, and how much we have Saved which is now on the stockroom shelves waiting for
someone to buy it at a tenth of its original cost. Can it be that all of your efforts go towards
allowing senseless wastages and increasing your dead stock holding?
Quality must be built-in; it cannot be examined into the product, this is a most important lesson
and should be clearly understood. Although there is a 100% quality check in the sewing floor, an
excessive number of faults find their way into finishing. Operators do not fix their mistakes but
leave them for examiners to find resulting in a high repair level.
The emphasis placed on quality of the product is good; spec sheets and PP samples are available
on the production floor. The tables and forms used by the examiners are satisfactory although the
collected data could be better and can be better utilized if the information was shared between
the end-line and roving quality personnel. PP meetings are held in most factories, not as a factory
requirement but as the buyers requirement. Many times PP meetings are held after the fabric has
been cut or even after production has started.








81

BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1]. Profiting through Quality: Improving Right First Time by Rajesh Bheda
[2]. Controlling fabric usage by Method apparel consultancy Rojer Thomas
[3]. Measurement of Sewing Capacity & Efficiency by Paul Collyer & Prof. Prabir Jana

website
www.houseofpearl.com
www.stitchworld.com

Internal data from various department
Observation during work
Interviews from various departments
Manuals of pearl global limited.






82
















ANNEXURE

83

M/c description
model
No. operation production 446 sampling 446
SEWING FLOOR:
single needle
single needle GC-128 Single needle 37 3
single needle 5530 normal 107 38
single needle 8500 normal 57 31
single needle 8300N normal 0 28
single needle KM-137 normal 14 1
single needle SL-7340 normal 69 30
single needle 5550 normal 3 3
single needle 1088 normal 47 3
single needle DDL-8700 normal 0 1

single needle N/ Feed
single needle N / F 5410 Needle feed 10 0
single needle N / F GC-0518 Needle feed 1 0
single needle N / F 7210 Needle feed 18 0

single needle edge cutter
single needle E/C SL-777 EDGE CUTTER 24 0
single needle E/C DLM-5200 EDGE CUTTER 37 0
single needle E/C GC-188 EDGE CUTTER 2 0

single needle UBT
single needle UBT SL-2110-403-CP single needle UBT WITH co 25 0
single needle UBT SL-2110-403 single needle UBT 230 0
84

single needle UBT 5550-6 Normal 3 0
single needle UBT DDL-8700-7 UBT 72 0

Double needle split bar
Double needle LH-3168 Split bar 5 0
Double needle
T-8450-003-
N64D split bar 11 0

Double needle Fix bar
double needle
T-8420-003-
N64D fix bar 10 0
double needle TN-845 fix bar 0 1


double needle chain stitch
double needle chain stitch MH-380 Chainstitch 4 3
double needle chain stitch GK-58 Chainstitch 3 0

OVERLOCK 5 THREAD
OVERLOCK M/C MO-3616 5-THREAD 12 2
OVERLOCK M/C 3316 5-THREAD 1 3
OVERLOCK M/C M-732 5-THREAD 24 5
OVERLOCK M/C CZ6500 5-THREAD 2 0
OVERLOCK M/C H/288/5 5-THREAD 0 2

OVERLOCK 6 THREAD
OVERLOCK M/C M-732/355 6 THREAD 48 0
OVERLOCK M/C M-832(3X2X4) 6 THREAD 6 4
OVERLOCK M/C M-752 6 THREAD 0 3
OVERLOCK M/C 752-13 6 THREAD 5 0
OVERLOCK M/C EX5214 6 THREAD 0 2
85


Button hole mannual
Button hole mannual LBH-781 mannual 0 3

Button hole UBT
Button hole UBT HE-800 UBT 9 0
Button hole UBT LBH-1790 UBT 5 0

Button Attach UBT
Button Attach UBT LK3B438E 12 1
Button Attach UBT LK-1903 8 2

Bar tack UBT
Bar tack UBT LK-1900 UBT 3 0
Bar tack UBT B1201 UBT 1 1

Feed of Arm
Feed of Arm NS-1190 Mannual 0 1

Flat Lock Cover seam
Flat Lock 500 flat bed 0 1
flat Lock W1562 cover seam 3 3

Flat Lock Bottom hem
Flat Lock Bottom hem W664 Bottom hem 5 0

Local embroider
Local Emb m/c 130 emb m/c mannual 1 9

Snap Button
snap Fastner NS-45 Mannual 1 0
86


Button wrapping
Button wrapping ST-7 1 0

Fagoating machine
Fagoating machine 1721-2 1 1

Picoting machine
Picoting machine PX302-4W 1 0

Profile cutting machine
Profile cutting machine K1 Picoting 1 0

Rice stitch machine
Rice stitch machine 1 0

saddle stitch machine
saddle stitch machine SS-3888 Pick stitch 0 1

Upper Tape Feeder
Upper Tape Feeder 0 1

Zig Zag machine
Zig Zag machine 2284N 0 1
Zig Zag machine KM-2070 2 0

KANSAI Special
KANSAI Special FB-1404 P 2 0
KANSAI Special 1412 PS 5 0
KANSAI Special KL-16048 PS 5 0
KANSAI Special PMD 1412 Design Smocking 2 0
87

KANSAI Special 33048 Design Smocking 1 0
KANSAI Special
BX1433PSSM
KL-33160 Design Smocking 2 0

Fabric Drill machine 3 0
Fabric Drill machine


CUTTING FLOOR:
0
Band Knife EC 700 2 0
Band Knife

Cutting m/c 629 9 0
Cutting m/c

Fusing machine
Fusing machine HM450 1 0
Fusing machine HP450 2 0
Fusing machine HP900 1 0
Fusing machine MACP333 1 0

Fusing machine

FINISHING FLOOR:
thread sucking m/c NS-55 1 0
thread rewinding m/c WH-40 1 0
PACKING FLOOR:
Needle detector machine
Needle detector machine HM-410 1 0

88