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A. Light and shade contrast in the Mesquite flat dunes of Death Valley National
Monument in California.—David Muench Order Today!
For the first time, Desert magazine
selects the favorite from its wide selec-
tion of excellent photographs. They
have been enlarged to 24" x 36" and
reproduced on heavy poster paper.
You'll be proud to have them in your
home or office. And what a great gift
idea! Use the coupon below or the at-
tached card to order.
Desert Poster Offer,
2145 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109
These handsome posters are $4 each. Or you
may order any three and pay just $10 (Price
includes postage, sales tax and handling.)
B. An ocotillo blooms with the Kofa Mountains of Arizona in the background.
David Muench
Features
54 California's Spring Wildflower Finale
Everyone agreed: It was Anza-Borrego's best show ever.
52 Desert Monster
Prettily patterned but painfully poisonous . . . he's a Gila.
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6 DESERT/JULY 1982
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welcome
to the Great American Desert
by Jacqueline Shannon
For this, the first issue of the cellent recreation and travel, was directly responsible for the
"new" Desert, we want to talk low-density housing, sunny town's impressive growth,
about our editorial philosophy, weather, and growing employ- which far exceeded what had
the history of Desert Magazine, ment opportunities. In fact, the been expected. In 1940, there
the rapidly changing Southwest, lure of our region is so great for was only one shack on the land
and about you—our readers. We all of the rest of the country that that would eventually become
did a whole lot of soul searching people are moving or traveling Palm Desert. In 1968, there were
and research about all of those to the Southwest in record num- less than 8,000 people living
things before we made the bers. And the phenomenal pop- there. Four years later, the popu-
changes you'll see in this issue ulation growth set in motion in lation was estimated at close to
and the ones to come. And we'd the '70s is not going to let up in 30,000. Since then, even more
like to share some of that infor- the '80s or '90s. The Southwest is growth has occurred in the area.
mation with you so that you'll where the action is. Henderson started Desert for
get a better idea of where we are Put more statistically, the the desert lover, in part, and also
coming from. growth rate of our region is ex- to give those who misunder-
Our editorial philosophy is a pected to be double the 11 per- stood the desert an appreciation
simple one: Desert's purpose is cent growth rate projected for of a beautiful place. His editorial
to entertain, educate, and ex- the entire United States by 1990. content adhered to the idea that
plore with our readers the Typical in the region is Arizona. the desert was an excellent place
beauty, life, and culture of the The population of Arizona in the to travel, to learn to understand
Great American Desert. year 2012 is expected to be 2V2 yourself better, and to appreciate
The Great American Desert— times what it was in 1980. nature to a fuller extent. He
that's what they used to call the Desert Magazine has a unique stayed with the magazine until
arid regions of the Western history in the ever-growing, 1961 (after 1958, as an advisory
United States, the geographical rapidly changing Southwest. In editor), and those who followed
area that Desert covers. We are November 1937, Randall Hen- him tried to stay close to the
reviving that phrase because it derson established the magazine philosophy he followed.
represents to us all of that from a storefront operation in El But because the Great Ameri-
beauty, life, and culture, and all Centra, Calif. At the same time, can Desert has grown and
of the past, present, and poten- he began to acquire land in the changed, so must Desert
tial of the desert Southwest. area near Palm Springs known Magazine. Along with the long-
Potential is an exciting or as Palm Village and Palm Desert. time Desert reader and desert
frightening word, depending on With the help of his brothers and resident, we now also have to fill
your viewpoint. Nevertheless, other investors, he was able to the needs of a new and different
the potential of the Southwest acquire enough land to house breed of desert dweller. Hender-
obviously is no longer a secret. the magazine headquarters as son's ideas fit well with the old
In the past, if and when an East- well as to begin building struc- desert, with the desert he first
erner or Midwesterner contem- tures for the development of that encountered. But with the new
plated the Southwest, he or she area as a real city. He also desert, a new style had to be
would inevitably picture a for- negotiated with the U.S. Postal found. You are holding it in
bidding, desolate landscape Service to have a post office es- your hands.
filled only with rattlesnakes, tablished, promising that he You, our readers, are a very
cacti, tumbleweed, and ghost would give them enough busi- diverse group. Most of you visit
towns. Now, that same person is ness with the mailing of his the desert frequently—some,
becoming aware of an attractive magazine to make it feasible. every weekend. Many of you, of
environment that promises ex- By putting it on the map, he course, live there. And quite a
8 DESERT/JULY 1982
The Great
American
Desert
Our Great American Desert, stretching from Eastern Oregon to Western Texas, includes five deserts.
They are the Mojave, Great Basin, Painted, Chihuahuan, and Sonoran Deserts.
JULY 1982/DESERT 9
few of you live thousands of
miles away and perhaps see the
desert only in these pages. But
the common bond is that all of
you love it.
The By letter, by reader survey, by
phone, and in person, you've
told us specifically what you love
Ardeidae Family about the desert, and so we will
cover those things. Within our
thanks you pages, you'll see and read about
desert exploration, recreation,
travel, resorts, hot springs, folk-
for being careful lore, animal and plant life, and
desert photography. Other top-
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Letters
Cactus City revisited this and every issue from now on. about a particular desert area.
Greatly miss the "Cactus City We've changed the name to the And although I am quite familiar
Clarion." It gave the extra touch "Cactus City Chronicle," but we feel with the area and have ideas and
of herbs and seasonings to the that you'll enjoy this expanded pictures for such an article, I
magazine. Unless one subscribes section as much — if not more — don't know how to go about
to all of those newspapers, one than the old "Clarion." Besides the getting it published.
doesn't know the fascinating news you miss so much, we've added I am hoping you can send me
things happening in those desert Desert nostalgia, photography, information as to how to get it
communities. I think other long, books, treasure hunting, and more. published.
long-time Desert subscribers will We'd love to hear what readers think David Titmarsy
feel the same way. Please of the new "Chronicle." — Ed.
reconsider. Those interested in submitting
J.W. Anderson articles or photos for our
Whittier, Calif. Contributing to Desert consideration should send a
I am a new subscriber stamped, self-addressed envelope to
It is back . . . and it will appear in interested in writing an article Desert, 2245 Garnet Ave., San
FURNACE-CREEK-INN
12 DESERT/JULY 1982
Diego, Calif. 92109. Include a note readers can get how-to-advertise feelings for every sprig of desert
requesting our "Guidelines for information in the classified section vegetation. What a lesson!
Writers and Photographers." These of the "Chronicle." — Ed. Surely I was helping nature, I
brand-new guidelines will tell you had reasoned, by hurrying the
everything you need to know. — Ed. decomposition of the deceased
On kicking cacti organic matter.
For many years I've been a So, today, whenever I want to
Pen pal possibilities desert explorer, and whenever I plant cactus seeds, or any other
I am greatly interested in found a dead cactus I would kick kind for that matter, I look for a
corresponding with readers of it — if it wasn't a threat to self- dead cactus to sow them in. I
your magazine who actually live injury. Then I would stamp on it even had to learn that to pick up
their lives in the desert. . . the and kick it still more till I was the dead plant, in order to place
Southern California deserts in satisfied I had pulverized it as the seeds, was to destroy the
particular. Is there any chance much as possible. This I did for root anchorage of any seedlings.
your magazine could help bring the first 20 years — before I What better protection could be
the desert I love closer to me by became an avid amateur found for both seeds and tender
your readers? botanist, before I developed an seedlings while the dead cactus
John Hall urge to examine more intricately shell disintegrates over the
Kirkland, Wash. every piece of flora underfoot. years. Some cacti, such as our
But in a more recent year I California Sclerocactus
We have a "Personal" section in observed one day that seedling polyancistrus, require five years,
our "Chronicle" in which readers plants sometimes sprouted in I estimate, to grow to a mere
can advertise for pen pals, hiking the protection of the old dead nine-millimeter diameter.
partners, and other personal spine shell. Suddenly, in Bob Lahmeyer
contacts. Don't be surprised when remorse, I wondered how many Fallbrook, Calif.
you see John Hall's advertisement in new seedlings I had killed in my
this issue: We asked him if he thoughtless though Send letters to Desert,2145
wanted to become our first unintentional devastation, for I Garnet Ave., San Diego, Calif.
"Personal" advertiser. Other have none but the warmest 92109. •
Desert Civilizations
World
14 DESERT/JULY 1982
The Old File Funnies
DEAD On ALIVE
TOM KETCHUM
Alias "Blackjack" and "Bishop
BEWARE: Ketchum is 6 feet tall and has dark brown hair and eyes.
He is wanted for robbery, theft, burglary, assault, train robbery, horse stealing,
bank robbery, and 21 MURDERS in the states of Arizona and New Mexico!
He should be considered armed and extremely dangerous.
JULY 1982/DESERT 17
Herzstien and one of the cowhand to travel." It seems that
Mexicans were killed instantly. in St. George, Utah, Black Jack
NORTHLAND The other looked dead to the — who was six feet tall, darkly
PRESS Ketchums and they rode away
without rifling the bodies, a little
handsome, and of quiet
demeanor — had become very
Southwestern Symbol of Fine Books
detail they did not overlook in much the ladies' man. For
later shootings. awhile he had plenty of
The wounded man, with a spending money from the late
hard-nosed .30-caliber bullet cattleman's herd and lots of time
through his middle, got up and to spend it. His activities as a
rode nearly 20 miles to sound the gallant earned him the nickname
alarm and lived to tell the tale. "Bishop."
The alarm was sounded loud This pleasant interlude in
enough, but it was nearly 20 Ketchum's busy life of crime
years before justice — in the came to an end abruptly when
NUDES AND FOODS: Gorman Goes
Gourmet edited by Virginia Dooley. A form of a maguay rope — was the husband of one of the ladies
personal compilation of recipes and able to deal firmly with Black — whose admiration for the tall,
anecdotes from New Mexico's own R. C. Jack, and by that time the first handsome desperado was
Gorman. The book contains 20 color re- killings were of little matter. ardent, if indiscreet — came
productions of Gorman's finest draw-
ings and lithographs of nudes as well as There would be some 19 more home unexpectedly. Black Jack
recipes gathered from his friends and murders to add to those first departed via a window without
family. A perfect gift for yourself or two. Black Jack kept a faithful bothering to lift the sash. There
others. Spiral bound $14.95 record, delicately carving small being nothing handy to speed
notches on the handle of the gun his departure except for the
at his hip. returned husband's bicycle,
Lawmen who sought him in Black Jack took off on it and was
five states declared that most of seen in St. George no more.
the notches were made with a Tap Duncan, an irascible man
.30-30 and preferably at some in the best of humor, was a bit
distance. All three of the men in mortified when he caught Black
this first shooting were hit with a Jack trading the bicycle for a
.30-30. Sam might just as well horse. He pointed out the
have fired in the air. continuation of the trail to the
Noted CAA artist Grant Speed has cre- outlaw and suggested that he
ated "Keepin' an Eye on the Riders" After the New Mexico
especially for Northland Press. This escapade, the boys circled north take it, on the bicycle. The
eleven-inch-high bronze sculpture is ac- and Black Jack swung a wide suggestion was too pointed to be
companied by a specially bound copy of loop as far up as Montana. In ignored, or at least the accuracy
Ross Santee's Wranglers and Rounders. of the sights on the Sharp's
This edition is limited to one hundred. Colorado he and some others
Price: $1,500.00 ambushed a stagecoach on the buffalo gun that Tap kept beaded
Santa Fe Trail and killed the on Black Jack caused him to get
armed guard. In Montana they going in a hurry.
helped a cattleman drive a herd Ketchum continued south,
•. - . of prime steers south from and for several years he
•is' • i;
Henry's Lake to loading pens on headquartered with a gang near
the Union Pacific in Idaho. Duncan, Ariz. The gang was
1 1 I'
Early-American Graffiti
Dear Editor:
For decades, archaeologists
have pondered endlessly upon
the true meanings of the ancient
Indian petroglyphs found in this
country.
Recently, a crack team of
young American graffitiologists
was summoned to Northern
Arizona to try to decipher these
mysterious messages.
After several grueling hours of
research, equipped only with
two pencils and having to rely
on their years of personal
analysis and participation in this
field, they were finally able to
interpret these prehistoric
inscriptions and give us a
glimpse into the past. "No intelligent life here, Scotty. Beam us up!"
We hope you will enjoy
knowing that things have not
really changed all that much.
Sincerely,
Mitch Lange, Pat Lange, Kevin
McClung, and Jim Hammond
(who took the pictures)
22 DESERT/JULY 1982
Walking
White
Sands
A first-hand initiation to
the science and scenery
of a natural wonder that's
almost 30,000 years old
Text and photos by Renee Rubin
and Michael Delesantro
S tanding on top of a
towering gypsum dune in
the heart of White Sands
National Monument in southern
New Mexico, we gaze upon a
vast openness. Stretching
toward the distant mountain
ranges are wave upon wave of
pure white sand. There are no
power lines, buildings, or other
• works of humans. There are not
even trees to break the pattern of
the undulating sand dunes.
Here, our spirits are free to soar.
Yet climbing down into the
interdunal areas, surrounded
on all sides by hills of
constantly moving sand, we feel
claustrophobic, as if the weight
of the sand above us might come
crashing down in a sudden
desert tidal wave. It is in these
interdunal areas, however, that
the true nature of the dune fields
unfolds. Plants and animals
dunes are the youngest) the faster
it moves. As the dunes move
across the monument, they
change to one of the other shapes.
JULY 1982/DESERT 23
M
Renee Rubin walks the dunes, struggle for survival as the Trudging up and out of the
which are located 90 miles from dunes, pushed slowly forward interdunal area, we struggle to
El Paso, Texas, and about 16 by the prevailing winds, the top of a dune. We wear
from Alamagordo, N.M. The advance to cover them. hiking boots to prevent the sand
soft, calming appearance of White We have visited White Sands from finding our feet, but even
Sands belies the major headlines before, as do thousands of their heavy tread provides little
others every month. But like traction in the sand. Frustration
that have been made in the sets in when for every step we
most of them we had been
general vicinity. On July 16, content to view the dunes from take forward, we seem to slip a
1945, the experimental atomic our car or from the few short half-step back.
bomb explosion occurred nearby. nature trails. Now we feel like But soon we fall into a rhythm
And on March 30,1982, the the early pioneers and explorers of slowly climbing the slippery
space shuttle Columbia landed at may have felt upon dunes and then joyfully racing
White Sands at the end of its encountering the imposing dune down, half-falling and half-
third and toughest test flight. fields: That we are about to strike flying into the interdunal areas.
out across a trackless wilderness. After a mile, we reach the
At the edge of the dunes many backcountry campground, the
plants have gained a temporary only area open for overnight
foothold. Water drains after visitors to White Sands National
infrequent summer rains and Monument. A sign reminds us
provides the extra moisture that water is available only at
required to allow hardy plants to monument headquarters about
push through the hardened 5V2 miles away. Our supply of
interdunal soil and begin the two gallons of water seems
dune stabilization process. In an adequate for our spring
otherwise barren landscape, overnight stay. But in summer,
their struggle seems to be a desert hikers should carry at
celebration of life against least one gallon of water per
all odds. person per day.
Our hike along the Hiking opportunities from the
backcountry access trail takes campsite abound. Access,
us past sand monuments or however, is limited at times
pedestals, marvelous wind- because of missile firings at
sculpted formations created by nearby White Sands Missile
roots of trees or large shrubs, Range. Visitors, therefore, must
like skunkbush sumac and check with the rangers at
cottonwoods, which extend their monument headquarters before
roots deep into the sand in the entering the backcountry.
search for water. The strong Our destination is the heart
desert wind has blown away the of the dunes where sand rules
surrounding sand to expose the supreme and plants quickly
roots and the sand trapped surrender to its movement.
around them. Even after the There are no marked trails, so
trees or shrubs die, the hardened we begin to plot our course
sand remains as a reminder of across the dunes with a
the power of the wind. Some of compass. We cannot depend on
these pedestals rise eight or 10 our tracks to lead us back
feet above the desert surface. because the winds pick up
The wind is the animating suddenly and quickly work their
force behind the shifting sands. magic, erasing all signs of
We have been here when gusts humans. Taking compass
of grit stung our faces as the bearings on distant landmarks,
sand was hurtled across the we plot our course relative to the
countryside. But now the air is mountain ranges surrounding
still and silent. The distant us; there are few other
calling of a desert sparrow is the landmarks in the dune fields and
only interruption. the large dunes all look alike.
JULY 1982/DESERT 25
The sands and vegetation are predators to spot. Over the to natural selection - the darker
home to many field mice and centuries, their natural colorings field mice and lizards were easier
lizards that have a distinct have changed to a white that to spot and to kill, leaving those
advantage: They're hard for matches the sands. This was due with lighter coloring to reproduce.
26 DESERT/JULY 1982
From the interdunal areas we
often see nothing in the distance
but the sky, and we have to
climb the nearest dune to take
our readings. The dunes provide
a challenging test of our
pathfinding skills.
Again, we feel a kinship with
travelers of an earlier age when
orienteering and pathfinding
were ways of life instead of
pleasant diversions during a
brief escape from the worries of
modern society. After leaving
the campground, we see no
human footprints except our
own. The isolation frightens us
at first, but at the same time
accentuates the exhilaration of
striking a new path across
unexplored territory.
As we trek deeper into the
vast dune fields, the early-
morning chill gives way to the
heat of the desert sun. We shed
our parkas. At the same time, we
shed our cares and open our
eyes and minds fully to
appreciate the scene around us.
Most of the rain falls here in
sudden summer rainstorms, so
the interdunal soil is still dry
during the spring. The parched
earth forms mosaic patterns on
the ground. But despite the
extremely dry conditions during
most of the year, many plants
grow in these desert areas.
Four-wing saltbush is a
common inhabitant of this
region. It thrives on alkaline soil
and its extensive root system can
search deep into the ground for
water. The soaptree yucca, the
New Mexico state flower, also is
excellently adapted to the sandy
habitat. The yucca's stem grows
quickly, keeping the top of the
plant above the surface of the
moving dunes. The leafless
Torrey ephedra has adapted by
JULY 1982/DESERT 27
The famous sands, which producing chlorophyll in its see the lizards who enjoy the
provide Rubin with a comfortable stem rather than in its leaves, summer heat.
napping spot, are about 35 miles thus conserving water by having We stop for lunch and rest in
long and 15 miles wide. At least less area for evaporation. the soft sand, which conforms to
62 species of plants live in the Because the pioneers made tea the contours of our backs, and
from this plant, its common we lazily watch wisps of high
dunes and the level flats between name is Mormon tea. Another clouds drift by. This is the life!
them. White Sands plant life common interdunal plant, An essential part of all of our
includes four species of mallows, rubber rabbitbush, derives its outdoor experiences is time
milkweed, morning glory, name from its sap, which spent doing absolutely nothing
mustard, Gilia, 13 species of contains latex rubber. Various except enjoying the peace and
aster, one true verbena, and animals feed on its stem and grandeur of nature.
several species of cacti. seeds. Hardy grasses also We could easily spend the rest
provide food for dune animals. of the afternoon on our sand
Although the desert does not beds, but we resume our hike
offer the variety of flora and toward the largest dunes. We
fauna found elsewhere, we are delight in deciphering the tales
fascinated by the manner in told by the tracks and other signs
which these few hardy plants we find in the desert. Wood rats
and animals survive in the dunes pruned the yuccas with their
despite the temperature sharp teeth. A kit fox left large
extremes, aridity, and moving tracks as he chased a pocket
sands. Some lizards and mice in mouse down a dune to its tiny
the monument, for example, hole beneath a bush. A horned
have evolved white skin and fur lark dug a little hole in the sand
to help them hide. It is too early where it found seeds, and then it
in the year, however, for us to walked off again in search of
28 DESERT/JULY 1982
more food. through the dunes. We reach our
As we walk toward the heart campsite before sunset.
•380
of the dunes, the plants become Cottonwood trees, the largest
more sparse and the dunes more trees in the dunes, offer us an
domineering. Some of the dunes anchor for our tent, the only one
rise 40 feet above the interdunal in the campsite that night. After
floor. From the top of the large setting up camp, we climb a
WHITE SANDS
dunes, one dune seems to melt nearby dune to watch the MISSILE RANGE
into the next, and the wind has sunset. There are no trees to (Not open to public)
shaped each into curves and block our view of the sky. To the
soft arcs. east the Sacramento Mountains
Several landmarks stand out turn red in the late afternoon
in the distance. While we sit in sun. The snow on Sierra Blanca
the hot sun, Sierra Blanca, the glistens in the alpenglow and the
tallest peak in southern New high thin clouds turn pink as the
Mexico, still wears its sparkling sun produces its last light before
snowcap. To the east is setting. It is a perfect ending to WHITE SANDS
Sacramento Peak Observatory our enjoyable day. J NATIONAL
MONUMENT
where scientists study the sun Because the white sand does
through clear mountain air. 54
not trap the heat, the
Squinting against the bright sun temperature falls quickly and
reflected off the white sand, forces us to return to our tent for
we can see the San Andres parkas. In the desert, and
Mountain peaks that mark the especially in the white dunes,
western sky. there are marked differences
The mountains are the source between day and night
of these gypsum sands, which temperatures. A monument
form the largest dunes of this ranger told us that even during
type in the United States. the summer, when daylight
The gypsum washes down the temperatures soar above 100
mountainsides into the Tularosa degrees, he had shivered in a
basin. About 30,000 years ago down sleeping bag at night. But
the basin filled with water, and at the moment we feel that our
gypsum sand dissolved in the noses and cheeks, which had
lake. Over the years, the climate been burned by the sun's totally fossilized, but other
changed and the wet basin dried reflection off the white sand, pieces are covered with just a
up, leaving the gypsum behind could warm the entire desert. thin layer of sand.
as selenite crystals. When Only a gentle breeze blows We explore the area
southwest winds broke up the and the old dried cottonwood surrounding the backcountry
crystals and blew the pure white leaves tap our tent. Although the campsite until the hot afternoon
particles northwest across the wind remains calm tonight, it sun reminds us that our water is
basin, the dunes were formed. had blown away two campers' running out. Just as the plants
If the area wasn't dry today tents earlier in the month. Later and animals of the desert are
there wouldn't be any dunes we take a short walk to view the limited by water supply, so too is
because gypsum dissolves in stars, beautiful in every corner of the length of our trip. We pack
water. Two small sources of the midnight heavens. up the gear and follow the rising
water in the basin — Lake We get up in time to see the and falling trail back.
Lucero and the alkali flats — sun rise over the Sacramento At the crest of a dune ridge we
continue to dissolve gypsum Mountains. In the early-morning take one final look across the
from the mountains and release sunlight, we notice huge waves of sand. After hiking in
it as crystals in the dry season. sandhill cranes migrating along those giant hills, we find it hard
The sun begins to sink lower the San Andres Mountains to to believe that some people still
in the sky and the dunes cast their northern breeding call this area a barren wasteland.
long shadows, making an almost grounds. Near the campsite we We have seen many things, but
endless pattern of black and discover mineralized roots and they are just a few of the
white. Reluctantly, we turn back stems from an old sand pedestal. marvelous secrets hidden in the
and finish our five-mile loop Some of the wood has become dunes of white sand. •
JULY 1982/DESERT 29
Ghost Town
Before dying, this central Nevada town begat a riot, a lynching, one of the state's biggest
mining booms, and an early state hero.
Ghost town visitors are often . . . severe, but tolerable. Belmont in this way. Early
disappointed. I frequently hear Belmont's summers are strikes were made in the
the complaint today: "There's enjoyed by some two dozen Toquimas in 1864, and by 1865
just nothing left up there." And residents, most of whom the Silver Bend district was
often that's true, due to the "winter" in nearby Tonopah. . established with Belmont as its
effects of time, the elements, Andy Eason, whose older noisy, pulsating heart. In this
and, sometimes, vandalism in brothers went to school in year alone, some 1,500 people
old mining towns. Ah, but Belmont, has lived in the town came to a previously empty
fortunately there are still those every summer for more than 20 piece of Nevada desert to try
special places left where the years and told me that he their luck. And there were some
full romance of the West in wouldn't have it any other way. big strikes, virtually all silver.
its mining heyday lingers on, He owns the Belmont Bar, which Some ore was said to assay at
places where one can truly reopened in the 1960s. Operated $10,000 a ton, but the norm was
enjoy the past. Such a place by Richard Ashton, formerly of more like $100.
is one of my favorites — Las Vegas and now living in By 1867, Belmont had all the
Belmont, Nev. It is blessed nearby Manhattan, it's open accoutrements of a civilized
with a number of fascinating each weekend of the summer. existence. The main street was
mining-day ruins, easy The bar is a lively gathering spot lined with a bank, newspaper
access, a few very-much-alive on those weekends for locals and and telegraph offices, a music
residents, and one of the nicest visitors alike. Meanwhile, John hall, sawmills, a bakery, two
settings for a town that one Richardson and his family doctors, a drugstore, and Ernst
can imagine. "escaped" from Southern & Esser's, which stocked all
Belmont is nestled at an California about five years ago, other needed products. The
elevation of 7,000 feet in the bought a house in the middle of premier edition of the Silver Bend
northern end of one of Nevada's town, and are among the six Reporter on March 30,1867,
incomprehensibly large valleys year-round residents of stated that "the hills are
— the Ralston, an easy 40-mile Belmont. These lucky people beginning to blacken with
drive north from Tonopah. and a few others have the prospectors."
Belmont is ringed on three sides enviable "job" of living in Also in 1867 came one of
by the oft snow-clad peaks of the Belmont while helping to any mining town's greatest
Toquima range. Directly to the preserve its remnants of the sources of pride, stability, and
east, where most of the mines past. And what an intriguing importance: Belmont became the
were, is a view of the Monitor past it's had! seat of Nye County, stripping
Valley, so enormous that the title away from struggling
shadows from huge cumulus The history of Belmont lone. Because the officials of the
clouds appear like small In the boom-and-bust days of county, formed a scant three
footprints on the valley floor. On the West, each major boom town years earlier, had just built a
each visit, I savor the unlimited had an enormous influx of courthouse in lone, seven years
high-desert vistas, the bubbling prospectors, very few of whom elapsed before Belmont had its
natural spring in the middle of actually made money during own gorgeous red brick
town, the large green trees, and that boom. The disillusioned courthouse.
the abundance of clear air, all of ones headed for the "next hill," Belmont also became a major
which are part of the wonderful and thus new finds were made transportation center, with
sense of being there. Belmont's and new booms were created. stages serving such booming
summer climate is virtually Austin, one of Nevada's earliest Nevada cities as Austin, Luning,
ideal, and its winters are, well post-Comstock strikes, begat Wadsworth (near Carson City),
30 DESERT/JULY 1982
and Eureka. This latter ground. The exact number of With the beautiful Monitor
connection was especially residents at the peak is quoted Valley as a background, some of
important when the Eureka & anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000. the walls of Belmont's
Palisade Railroad began service In any case, Belmont was a Highbridge Ore Mill are still
to Eureka in 1875. Ore for bustling community for about 20 standing. The building was at
processing in Belmont's mills years. least three stories high, with an
was brought in from as far away Then the generous earth,
as Lida, more than 100 miles to seemingly unlimited in its interior the size of a large
the south. Much of Belmont's supply of metal, changed its gymnasium.
metal output went directly to the personality. It ceased to provide
mints in Carson City and San further riches, and Belmont's
Francisco. production was essentially
Belmont's peak population complete by 1885. Some $15
was reached in the 1870s. The million worth of silver, gold,
emergence of the White Pine lead, and mercury had been
district in the 1868-69 period taken from the slopes of the
drained Belmont's population Toquimas. The town declined
for a while but new rich strikes through the 1890s and had only
in 1873 put Belmont back on firm a handful of residents by 1900.
JULY 1982/DESERT 31
Tonopah began booming and disgrace to Belmont occurred in lawyer in town, to handle the
quickly whisked away the May 1874. Two young men few pieces of county business
county seat honors in 1903. named Charlie Mclntyre and during Andy's tenure. Johnson
There were attempted revivals in Jack Walker had come to was removed from office in the
1909 with the discovery of Belmont from Pennsylvania to election of 1896, but he'd
turquoise, and in the Teens try mining. Some references say decided he liked it in the
when the tailings were reworked they were union organizers. In courthouse and would not leave.
and processed in a small new any case, they managed to For nine days he sat at his desk,
mill. These ventures were not irritate a local citizen in a bar one admitting only trusted friends
profitable, however. The Silver night, which, in typical Western with food and whiskey. But he
Bend district's once-thriving style, led to a shoot-out and a finally gave in and went back to
heart has throbbed meekly and couple of injured bystanders. So his mules.
slowly since. the two men were put in jail. Johnson's replacement was
They escaped but were quickly also an uneducated rancher, but
The people of Belmont recaptured in a local mine where presumably one who smelled
The history of Belmont's they had hidden. Although they better. His name was Jim Butler
people is special and intriguing, were put in a more secure cell, and he lived on a ranch north of
too. Belmont was generally not some local citizens were not at all Belmont. If that name sounds
as lawless and certainly a good pleased by the young men's familiar, it should. He was the
deal more refined than most behavior and decided to do man who, while chasing one of
western mining towns, but there something about it. Breaking his mules on a prospecting trip,
were moments. Surely Belmont into the jail, the group bound up literally stumbled across the rich
had its share of robberies and the sheriff, proceeded to the lode that became Tonopah. Even
shoot-outs, but there were two men's cell, and promptly hung more amazing is that Butler's
especially shameful events in them. The group left a "301" tag assistant district attorney, Tasker
Belmont's past — a riot by mine on each — the symbol of L. Oddie, went on to become an
workers and the lynching of two Belmont's local vigilante important figure in Nye County,
young miners by a town committee. then governor of Nevada, and
vigilante group. The story would have ended finally a U.S. senator! He was a
The former event occurred in there except that a state hero.
April 1867. Large groups of Irish blood-and-guts version of this Meanwhile, in the early 1890s,
and Cornish miners had come to episode appeared in the San a daughter named Rose was
Belmont and they'd brought Francisco Chronicle, which said born to Mr. and Mrs. Goldbach,
their traditional rivalry with that not only had this horrible who lived on Barley Creek near
them. When it seemed that the deed taken place, but that the Belmont. By marriage she
Silver Bend Company was going bodies had also been riddled became Rose Walter and she has
to give preference to Cornish with bullet holes, thus spattering spent virtually her entire life
workers (who would work for blood all over the floors and living in or near Belmont. She
cheaper wages), a group of the ceiling of the jail. The sheriff went to school in a little adobe
Irish stormed the company office vigorously denied this story in a schoolhouse at the north end of
and challenged an agent named later Chronicle article, but he town, and then stayed on as one
Canfield. When he could not finally Succumbed to pressure of Belmont's few full-time
satisfy the group verbally, he from bloodthirsty visitors: He residents. She was, in fact, the
was strung up on a metal rail flung red paint around on the only year-round resident of
and carried around town from jail's walls so that "everyone can Belmont for many years; only
bar to bar. The miners grew be happy and we can have some recently did she sell out in
rowdier and more threatening peace around here!" Belmont and move to Tonopah.
until at one bar they Belmont's biggest and in some (The aforementioned Richardson
encountered Louis Bodrow, a ways most incredible people family now lives in her home.)
former marshal from Austin. He success story was its progression
informed the group they should of district attorneys in the The walking tour of Belmont
cease their actions. One of the declining days. In the early The setting, the history, and
group's leaders, Pat Dignon, 1890s, "Old Andy" Johnson, an the people all lead up to Belmont
spat in Bodrow's face and the uneducated, unkempt mule today: It's a wonderful collection
fight was on. Both Bodrow and rancher, was elected district of decaying buildings from the
Dignon were shot and killed, attorney as the result of a joke 1860s and '70s. Because Belmont
and numerous people were that backfired. Although he had water, wood, rock, and a
injured, but Canfield was saved knew nothing at all about the nearby deposit of clay, a kiln was
by friends. job, he engaged the talents of built for firing brick. Thus, many
The other major event of William Granger, a retired of Belmont's buildings and mills
32 DESERT/JULY 1982
The Nye County Courthouse, in
the foreground of this view south
down the Ralston Valley (left),
is now being restored by the state
of Nevada. Recently, a shiny new
white roof was installed and
plastic sheets were placed in the
previously gaunt window
housings to protect the building's
interior. The state has further
restoration plans for the
courthouse. Many Belmont locals
fear for the longevity of the
Cosmopolitan Music Hall
(below). Once the town's center
of culture, its sides are now
bulging, the roof is slowly
disappearing, and the building
may collapse soon.
JULY 1982/DESERT 33
were built of local brick and previously, is next on the right. I moved to nearby Manhattan. It
stone and have survived. Join have quaffed a few beers here still graces that town. All around
me on a tour starting from the and had a chance to meet the the perimeter of town are mine
south end of town (coming in "town folks." Although this is a remnants, walls and foundations
fromTonopah). newer building, there are some of dwellings, and all variety of
On the left is the enormous, good historical photos on the metal and glass pieces. In short,
square brick stack and walls. one can explore Belmont in as
foundations of the The west (left) side of the main much depth as one desires. I
Belmont-Monitor Mill. This mill street contains a row of period always find some new relic of
once contained 80 stamps, no buildings — some brick, some Belmont's past on each return
doubt inundating the valley day wood. These were offices, visit.
and night with the clatter of stores, and saloons. The final part of the tour is
prosperity. Across the street is one of the East Belmont, a short walk or
Toward town, a bit further on West's most photographed and drive over the hill from Rose's
the right, is the cemetery, haunting structures: the house. Beside the road is the
somewhat hidden in trees. It's Cosmopolitan Music Hall. The round brick stack and
fenced, reasonably hall was Belmont's cultural foundations of the 40-stamp
well-maintained, and contains a center and featured the likes of Combination Mill. The mill,
number of older headstones. Lotta Crabtree (one of the most which cost $225,000, was moved
The Belmont Bar, mentioned famous stage actresses of the "j from California in the late 1860s
19th century) and Fay Templeton by mule trains: 14 teams of 10
HWY. 376
to AUSTIN (75 mi.) (a child performer of the day) on mules each. I can believe
its stage. incredible stories like that only
To the west of the main street because there was no other
is Belmont's little spring. Its means of transportation at the
stream disappears into the time.
desert's dryness below town. Further down the hill and
Just beyond is Belmont's most about one-half bumpy mile off
prestigious building and my the road is the shell of the
all-time favorite ghost town Highbridge Mill. This building is
edifice: the Nye County one of the largest single ruins in
- - - D I R T , GRAVEL Courthouse. It's a beautiful any ghost town in the West.
SURFACE
PAVED ROADS
building, built entirely of local Inside are numerous footings for
brick and stone in 1874. The cost the large ore milling machinery.
HWY. 95
to LAS VEGAS
for construction was $3,400. This building and the views of
Each room, including the jail, the Monitor Valley below offer
Map of central Nevada showing attached to the rear of the excellent photographic
routes to Belmont. building, had a heater, and thus possibilities, as do many of
APPROX. SCALE MONITOR VALLEY
the courthouse sports a number Belmont's lovely old buildings.
1W=1mile of chimneys. I have thoroughly Belmont has been spared the
explored this fascinating relic. I normal mining camp maladies of
have surveyed the graffiti on the fires and floods. Because local
walls inside, some of which is building materials existed
more than 50 years old, and I nearby, much of Belmont was
have even ventured up creaky built of brick and thus remains.
D
staircases to the second floor and The town had a somewhat
Rows of
HIGH BRIDGE
MILL RUIN
to the gorgeous cupola atop the rowdy but quite civilized past.
Stores O I D COSMOPOLITAN building. The courthouse But through it all, the town's
Spring o %\ MUSIC HALL virtually talks of history and lovely setting and omnipotent
- • COURTHOUSE
nostalgia! Thanks to the state of
Nevada, the building's
scenery remains a primary
attraction. And I not only
restoration has begun. appreciate but envy Andy Eason
Back to the main street, on the and a few others who spend as
north end of town at the bend in much time as they can in
the road, is the sturdy brick Belmont — it's a pleasant place
house where Rose Walter lived to be. Visit Belmont, savor the
A
to TONOPAH (approx. 45 miles). for so many years. To the right feeling of being there, enjoy the
RALSTON VALLEY and up the hill was a quaint buildings, drink in the
wooden Catholic church, which, high-desert air. Belmont is a
Map for a tour of Belmont. after Belmont's demise, was special place. •
34 DESERT/JULY 1982
Milestones, Magic, Myths, and Miscellaneous of the Great American Desert July 1982
Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938. Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1937. Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938.
1
structed — items. that will catch any gold filings
Visitors can try their luck at or scrap that might get washed
panning for gold. I have been down. With the price of gold so
able to find a few flakes on high, this could be a good in-
each visit. The personnel are vestment.
friendly and glad to answer The Graves Company, Des-
questions. In addition, there ert Dept., 950 S.W. 12 Ave.,
APACHE TEARS is an impressive display of Pompano Beach, Fla. 33060,
Collecting sites: I recently up additional specimens and gold in the office, as well as has completely remodeled the
had the opportunity to accom- cracking them. Each revealed a some historical items from the Mark IV Faceting Machine. It is
pany a friend as he did some glassy interior. I had set up my region. now cast in one piece, provid-
prospecting near Wickenburg, tent in a field of Apache tears. Books: An interesting new ing for greater strength. In ad-
Ariz., which is 60 miles north- The next morning, while my book is now available. Arkan- dition, the renovated Mark IV
west of Phoenix. This locality is friend was working in the sas' Incredible Diamond Mine features a new motor and drive
known to have produced gold, wash, I spent the time gather- Story gives the history and system and ball bearing arbor
and it boasts one of the state's ing tiny black obsidianites. Be- other pertinent data about mounts with screws that per-
most famous mines, the Vul- fore noon, I'd filled two lunch America's only diamond pipe, mit the arbor to be precisely
ture. We started our search bags and also found some ex- located near Murfreesboro, positioned. This allows for ac-
south of Wickenburg and de- cellent, bubbly chalcedony. Ark., which is 150 miles curate alignment of facets, no
cided to work westward from Most of what I obtained took a southwest of Little Rock. This matter where on the lap they
there. My primary interest was good polish in a tumbler, and a site has been well-known to are ground.
not gold, though, but minerals. few of the large specimens rockhounds for years, and the B. Jadow and Sons, Inc. re-
Each time we stopped, my made nice faceted pieces. The book is a must for anyone who cently developed a new econ-
friend would begin digging majority are transparent, and has visited there or plans to do omy line of jeweler's saw
and sampling, while I would some exhibit a billowing sheen so. The cost is $6.45, and it can blades. A variety of sizes are
explore the area. In the course when polished. be obtained by sending a check available and they are individ-
of our week's work, we did, in When searching for Apache to the author, Jerry Wilcox, ually packed to maintain quali-
fact, locate some gold and a tears, the best technique is to Desert Dept., P.O. Box 534, ty. The cost is 69 cents a dozen,
number of nice mineral depos- walk with the sun to your back. Nashville, Ark. 71852. and more information can be
its. My favorite of the latter The bright lighting makes the The University of New Mex- obtained by writing B. Jadow
was discovered the last eve- tiny black( stones stand out ico Press (Desert Dept., Al- and Sons, Desert Dept., 53
ning of our trip. The location against the much lighter soil. It buquerque, N.M. 87131) has West 23rd St., New York, N.Y.
offers t h o u s a n d s of tiny takes some patience and walk- just published Brazilian Stone 10010.
Apache tears, many of which ing to find a quantity of the Meteorites, by Celso B. Gomes Diamond discs are now avail-
will take a beautiful polish. little gems, but this is a fairly and Klaus Keil. It sells for $20 able to all lapidary craftsmen
We had decided to spend productive location that's wor- and is a great reference for and can be used on any
our final night next to a wash thy of a visit if you are in the anyone interested in those sponge-covered face plate or
my friend wanted to inspect area. once-celestial objects. There spin disc in six or eight-inch
further, and that evening, To get there, simply take are two sections. The first is an diameter. Raytech Industries,
while setting up my tent, I Highway 60 to Aguila, and exhaustive discussion of mete- Inc., Desert Dept., P.O. Box 6,
noticed there were lots of then head south from town. orites in general, including Stafford Springs, Conn. 06076,
tiny black stones scattered Go 49/io miles, then turn east classification, mineralogy, is the manufacturer and claims
throughout the sandy soil. I on the intersecting dirt road. composition, and recognition. they are far more economical
tossed the first few out of the Continue approximately 68/io The second section is devoted than traditional silicon carbide
way so that I would have a miles to the big wash. After to meteorites found in Brazil. varieties. The cutting rate is
smooth sleeping area, but you've crossed it, you will be at Publications: It was re- much faster and they boast a
eventually I became curious the edge of the collecting site. cently called to my attention considerably longer life. True
about exactly what they were. From here, continuing at least that there is an investment Circle Diamond Discs are
When I cracked one, its secret one mile east, the ground is lit- newsletter available to persons manufactured in 325 grit and
was revealed. The interior was tered with the Apache tears. dealing in gemstones. It's 1200 grit and have a pressure-
a beautiful, smoky-black glass. While in the area, I strongly called the Precioustone Newslet- sensitive backing that allows
After this discovery, I excited- suggest continuing to the old ter and is a monthly, 24-page them to be mounted and re-
ly scrambled around picking Vulture Mine. To get there, publication. The cost for a sub- moved easily. — Rick Mitchell
25^ ! rBOUNDARY • / *
CAMPO !
M i. -v / / / " * * •
Originally appearing in the November 1946 issue, this map was reprinted with the author's story in March 1965. He says the gold was within the
map's borders.
Magazine's
Get Your
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Tl
fD
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C
13
0)
in
a
5S
<3
r
DESERT
MONSTER
T he gila monster (Heloderma
suspectum) of the
southwestern United
States and Sonora, and its
relative, the beaded lizard
the venom into the wound. The
venom is produced in glands in
the lower jaw and is expelled
into the mouth along grooves in
the lower teeth. The grooves act
(Heloderma horridum) of Mexico as ducts to carry the venom by
are the only known venomous capillary action into the wound,
lizards in the world. in contrast to the fangs of
At 12 to 16 inches in length, venomous snakes, which, like
both are large, heavy-bodied hypodermic needles, inject the
lizards with short, thick tails and venom directly into the flesh. A
are colored with gaudy patterns bit of folklore from the United
of black with pink, orange, or States is that the gila monster
yellow blotches. Their small, has no anus and produces its
round, closely set scales suggest venom from food decomposing
almost an Indian beadwork in the digestive tract.
appearance. Their normal While very few people have
habitat is semiarid country, died from the bite of a gila
especially desert woodlands and monster, it requires immediate
the vicinity of farms and medical aid. Symptoms of the
intermittent streams where they bite include sweating, nausea,
have access to water and damp thirst, sore throat, ringing in the
soil. Primarily nocturnal (active ears, weakness, rapid breathing,
at night), they prey upon small faintness, and collapse.
mammals, birds eggs, and Although formidable in
reptiles. appearance, these lizards are not
Gila monster venom is quite dangerous unless they're
strong and being bit by one is molested or handled. So don't
excruciatingly painful. The touch! In Arizona the gila
lizards usually bite as a monster is protected by law.
defensive action, and, indeed, Their range? They can be
most bites from gila monsters in found in extreme southwestern
this country result from careless Utah, the tip of Nevada to the
handling of captive lizards. eastern edge of the Colorado
When a gila monster does bite, River, and south to New Mexico
its strong jaws hold on and chew and Sonora, Mexico. •
52 DESERT/JULY 1982
r
\
r L
4
• ^
n *7i
fu
Where, what, and why this was Anza-Borrego's
best show ever
California's
Wildflower Finale Text and photos by Michael Vlassis
B esides
dealing out extreme summer
heat and strong winds, the harsh
this past spring — for a view of
the spectacle. Desert Magazine,
too, took to the road to give
desert climate provides only two those of you who missed it a
or three inches of rainfall a year, last look at the fantastic,
and that's not every year. The extraordinarily green spring
winter water is enough, though, of 1982.
to start an explosion of growth When many people think of
almost every spring. And it's desert flowers, they think of the
always worth a drive and a few flowers of cacti. Desert cactus
rolls of film. That was especially flowers definitely are some of
true this year. the most beautiful and vibrantly
The winter of 1981-82 was one colored in the world. But this
of the coldest and wettest month, in the pages that follow,
winters in recent history. I'll be showing you the other
California deserts received their side of the desert's flower life. I
share of it. Rain fell in surprising concentrated on the soft, gentle
quantities and many people flowers — many of them annuals
claim that the resulting flower — that grow from seeds each
crop was the best they've seen in spring if there is enough rain.
20 years. While taking my own pictures,
That's why thousands of RVs, I watched many of you stop by
vans, and cars filled desert roads the side of the road, making
54 DESERT/JULY 1982
frequent use of your binoculars only in one place and in very
or cameras, like the gentleman limited numbers. To find these
with the white Mercedes. But I hidden jewels, you must drive
hope that he and the rest of you on dirt roads and do a bit of
flower sightseers went further walking.
than the side of the road, The purple field at sunset,
because a great many of the however, was visible from the
wildflowers — some of which main road (Highway S2). It's a
you'll see in the coming pages — field of thistle sage (Salvia
grow in small clusters hidden carduacea), a member of the
from view. A few species grow mint family.
JULY 1982/DESERT 55
Site of San Felipe""
Butterfield Stage Station
178'
Julian" MAJOR ROADS AND HIGHWAYS
PRIMITIVE ROAD
HIKING TRAIL
•••••• HISTORICAL TRAIL ROUTE
(TRAIL NO LONGER EXISTS)
v
' — - CREEK
• RANGER STATION
'Morteros CAMPGROUND
Marshall South A PRIMITIVE CAMPGROUND
P^ Cuyamaca
Reservoir
Oriflamme Mtn.
El. 4611
Laguna
Recreation Area
Home
Vaflecito
•
•
POINT OF INTEREST
GAS AND SUPPLIES
Troutman Mtn. County Park
EL. 2108 "V.
JULY 1982/DESERT 57
N I orth Pinyon
Road has a gentle grade and is in
the center of an alluvial fan.
When water flows out of
mountain canyons it erodes the
mountains, opens up into a fan
shape, and deposits most of its
particulate matter to create
alluvial fans, which are millions
of years old.
Superimposed on alluvial fans
are braided streams, drainage
systems that are shallow washes
from recent rainstorms. Braided
streams have sandy channels,
such as the one I stood on to take
the picture at left. We're
overlooking a dry lake bed, and
across from us is another alluvial
fan, which has its origins in the
Granite Mountains. The houses
and road are part of the
community of Earthquake
Valley, now renamed Shelter
Valley by real estate developers
who want to make sales easier.
The braided streams carry
seeds and this winter's rains
persuaded the majority of them
to flower. The most prominent
flower, however, is pictured at
right. It's the desert monkey
flower (orMimulus bigelovii) of
the figwort family. The monkey
flower needs well-drained soil —
usually sand — in order to grow.
It has a single straight root, two
to three inches long, with no
root hair because there is no
humidity nearby. It is hard to
predict where the monkey
flower will grow from year
to year.
58 DESERT/JULY 1982
B
HT - •'fir''. *
1
i
•
Bf'j
9
- ' .
.
'
• '
/
•
• /
' / • • •
* •
'
'
t I he desert soil
is too dry for bacterial growth, so
the recycling of plant matter,
^ ^
• - — —
which happens so quickly in the
woods, is very slow in the
\
! P*5
5 ^ •
M desert. Dead vegetation, like this
• '- dry cactus stem on the sandy
bed of a braided stream, top, acts
«•
as a valuable trap for soil, water,
nutrients, and seeds.
• 1 Around the cactus stem,
in addition to the colorful desert
j
,_ monkey flower, we found white
^•«* i desert stars (Monoptilon bellwides)
of the sunflower family and
1 ft Ik*' purple mat (Nama demissum) of
the waterleaf family.
The small flowered primrose,
••p middle photo, is of the evening
primrose family.
Almost impossible to detect
while you're standing, the desert
calico (Langloisia matthewsii),
bottom photo, is of the phlox
family and blends with the dirt
and gravel.
60 DESERT/JULY 1982
long with
green grass and stereo music,
some Californians like to carry
the beach with them to the
desert. This group, at left,
camped right in the small stream
of Grapevine Canyon and
enjoyed a perfect April day with
sunny skies and 90-degree dry
heat. Just a short walk away
grows this extraterrestrial-
looking, scaly-stemmed sand
plant (Pholisma arenarium),
pictured above, of the lennoa
family. This is a parasitic plant —
it usually feeds off of the roots of
cheesebush.
JULY 1982/DESERT 61
M I y favorite
desert plant is the ocotillo. I shot
the one above at sunset while
The flower lacks a landing
platform for insects and bees
can't hover. In addition, the
heading east on Highway 78, tubular flower is too long for the
which is lined for miles with short mouths of insects. And
thousands of them. insects can't see red — the color
The ocotillo has spines and of the ocotillo flower. They see
sprouts green leaves after a good ultraviolet. So it's the
rainstorm. The leaves can grow hummingbird, with its long bill
any time of year, but the plant and ability to see red, that
flowers only in the spring. It's a pollinates the ocotillo.
common misconception that the There is plenty of nectar to
ocotillo is a cactus — but it does supply the energy needs of the
not have a succulent's stalk like a hummingbird. Indians were
cactus does, and its spines are known to use this ocotillo nectar
very different. Ocotillo spines as a sweet. They harvested and
are the hardened petiole (stems) ground the seeds, as well. Ants
of the first leaves of new growth. also harvest the seeds —
All of the new leaves that follow, stripping off the hairy coats
in response to rain, are stemless before storing the seeds
and grow in the axil between the underground.
spine and the stalk.
62 DESERT/JULY 1982
Camping in
Anza-Borrego
Courtesy of the California
Department of Parks and Recreation
The park contains two
developed family campgrounds
— one near park headquarters at
Borrego Palm Canyon (25 sites)
and one at Tamarisk Grove (25
sites). The sites at these
campgrounds contain tables,
wood stoves, shade ramadas,
and cupboards; water and
restrooms with flush toilets are
nearby. Wood fuel is sold at the
park, or bring your camp stove
and fuel. Vacation trailers up to
24 feet long and motor homes up
to 31 feet can use these sites.
Campers with motor homes,
trailers, or pickup campers may
prefer to use the trailer area at
Borrego Palm Canyon. Its
paved "pull-through" parking
spaces have connections for
water, electricity, and sewage.
This area is not suitable for tent
camping.
If you are planning to camp in
one of Anza-Borrego's
developed or trailer campsites
on a weekend or holiday during
the winter, reservations are
recommended. Ask the ranger
for reservation information or
call (916) 445-8828.
Primitive campgrounds are
scattered throughout the park.
Facilities there include only pit
or chemical toilets and trash cans
— you must bring your own
water. In addition, you are
welcome to camp anywhere
along park roads or designated
or shape and them. Plan to visit them next routes of travel.
color, one of my favorite flowers spring in person . . . and don't There is also a group
is the apricot mallow (Sphaeralcea forget your camera. For the campground located at Borrego
ambigua) of the mallow family. information of camera buffs, I Palm Canyon that will
It's pictured at right and above, used an 85mm lens with accommodate up to 120 campers.
co-existing with the hairy lotus lV2-inch extension tube for all of For more information, contact
bush of the pea family. the close-ups. park headquarters. •
I hope you enjoyed this Look for our cactus
parade of gentle desert flowers flowers presentation later this
as much as I enjoyed shooting year.D
64 DESERT/JULY 1982
• »:** . - . < & • * $ *
Along the
Indian Detours Trail
The dust of the frontier was just settling when this upstart
touring company began kicking it up again
By Albert D. Manchester
Photos courtesy of the Museum of New Mexico
Inspecting and admiring Southwest. Although the Grand Canyon for the Harvey
pottery at Indian pueblos was window to the Old West was people. The vast Southwest
popular with most "dudes." The closing, a perceptive visitor intrigued him, as he thought it
company discouraged the drivers could still look through it to see must intrigue others, and he
— like this one, who is correctly images of an earlier day. The came to envision motorcar tours
Indian Wars were a living across the beautiful land. He
attired as a cowboy —from memory, and men who had presented the idea to his
speaking with the tourists. Their fought in the Lincoln County employers and the managers of
orders: "Keep your hands on the range war were still spry the Santa Fe Railroad. They liked
machinery, your eyes on and mean. the idea so much that they put
the road." The Indian Detours was an Clarkson in charge of the entire
outgrowth of the Harvey House operation.
restaurant and hotel chain, a Major Clarkson set up
business that had followed the headquarters in Santa Fe, just a
railroads across the West, block south of the plaza. The
providing decent food and nine Packard Eight touring cars
lodging for train travelers. Even he bought were garaged there,
prior to World War I, the Harvey too, along with two small buses
business had offered motor trips for larger tours. Clarkson moved
along the rim of the Grand ahead quickly but with military
Canyon from the lodges and thoroughness. Nothing was left
hotels it operated there. In the to chance. Drivers and guides
early 1920s, a young, war- were hired with care and trained
decorated British expatriate, well, advertising brochures were
Major R. Hunter Clarkson, was sent out across the country, and
in charge of transportation at the accommodations for tourists
68 DESERT/JULY 1982
'• ;
were found and booked. The tourists. The boys were not A small Harveycoach visits
Indian Detours was planned as a allowed to smoke, drink, or San Ildefonso pueblo, where
class operation, in keeping with chew in the presence of the tourists admire a group of Indian
the high standards of the Harvey dudes, nor did they even talk to children framed between couriers.
House business and the Santa Fe them very much. Legend has it Although most of the tourists
Railroad. that the Santa Fe Railroad was
not beneath sending vampy were intelligent and kind, the
The Detours chauffeurs were couriers had to keep their cools in
all local boys. They knew the tourists on the trail to see if the
country, which was absolutely boys could be enticed beyond the face of some abjectly stupid
essential because the roads were endurance. "They'd just throw it questions and occasional
primitive and there were few in your face," recalls one of the rudeness. The company was
road signs. Local citizens were drivers with nostalgic wonder. known to send "spy dudes" on
not beyond taking the wooden The drivers were expected to be the tours to make sure the women
signs home for kindling, one of strong and silent. . . and stoic. treated the dudes with courtesy.
the retired drivers remembers. In the early days the Detours
Some of the ex-chauffeurs still drivers had only dirt or graveled
live in the Santa Fe area and roads to drive on, rickety bridges
enjoy recalling those early days or none at all, and some of the
along the Detours trail. switchbacks in the mountains
Each driver was dressed in a were so sharp that the boys were
Tom Mix-style ten-gallon hat, forced to back up in the curves
silk neckerchief, colorful shirt, for a second run, a maneuver
riding breeches, and high boots, likely to send chills through
a uniform guaranteed to thrill flatlander dudes. They drove
the "dudes," as the young men across all of the Southwest in all
irreverently christened the seasons, in snow and rain and
70 DESERT/JULY 1982
••W.*
driver was new at the game. Detours through the 1930s — A couple of tour cars climbing
After he scratched his head and were part of the daily routine. out of the northern entrance of
stared at the slumping machine Major Clarkson kept several New Mexico's Chaco Canyon.
for a time, he admitted that, by mechanics busy, and there were This road is not much better
golly, as far as he was concerned checklists for the drivers to go today, but most of the Indian
they were good and stuck. through when they brought the
cars in, and again before the cars Detours can now be duplicated on
The courier found some baling paved roads.
wire, and then, just off the road, went out. Failure to adhere to
she located a piece of driftwood the mandated procedures for
on the rocky shore of the Rio maintenance was tantamount to
Grande. The wood was wedged immediate dismissal. Dudes
in under the car body and wired were not to be injured, lost, or
in place. They drove into Taos, stranded through simple
where the local mechanics and carelessness.
blacksmiths pronounced the jury The Indian Detours would
rig as good as they could have have been impossible without
devised until the car could be the dudes. In fact, the Detours
driven to Santa Fe for a new came along at what may have
spring! been the only time in our history
To be sure, the drivers and when such a venture could have
couriers did not often have to been supported. Ten years
"get out and get under." before, neither the roads nor the
Maintenance and preventive machines were up to the mark.
maintenance of the Packards — Ten years later, in the mid-1930s
and later the Cadillacs, which and in the midst of an economic
became the workhorses of the calamity, fun had gone out of
JULY 1982/DESERT 71
i
Indian-
^O^Sr^J
?xf^^^
^2S
^' FBI. IOL£.<?\ •
c u r r OWELUN or
^rc' rru
ALBUQUEEQUE
* ALVAEADO
This map, circa 1935, is from a style for most folks . . . if it edge. Armed with Kodaks,
brochure sent around the country cost money. Americans set out to discover
to advertise the Indian Detours. In the mid-1920s, however, their beautiful continent. This
The heavy gray line indicates fun seemed to be the national was America's adolescence, and
some of the sites visited on the destiny. Middle-class America Americans looked at the land
tours to Taos. was affluent, there was a war to with youthful wonder. Ennui
forget, and changing social was not one of their attitudes;
values had set everybody on and, whatever other faults the
71 DESERT/JULY 1982
people of that day had, taking Pajarito Plateau. Part of the ride
things for granted was not one to Taos followed the canyon of
of them. the Rio Grande. Once in Taos,
The wealthy and the famous the dude visited local artists, the
of the period, and some foreign chapel at Ranchos de Taos, and
visitors, risked the Wild West in the Indian pueblo of San
the rear seats of Harveycars. Geronimo de Taos. On the
One ex-driver recalls that he was return trip, stops were made at
the favorite chauffeur of Andre the Spanish mountain villages
Kostelanetz and his wife Lily of Truchas and Cordova, and
Pons, who eventually came to finally at the religious sanctuary
own a house in Santa Fe. of Chimayo, a modest adobe
That same driver remembers mission church. Then back to
exploring the Four Corners area Santa Fe, the railroad, and the
with two wealthy women from 20th century. That tour,
Philadelphia for the better part including lodging and meals,
of three months. cost $45 in 1929 — a lot of
Although the first Detours adventure per mile per dollar,
were concentrated in northern even by the standards of
New Mexico, by 1929 the tours the time.
had spread out all across the 1929 came and went. The
map of the Southwest. By that Great Depression gained
time a long-range "land cruise" momentum as the 1930s
could be organized to poke into matured. A lot of the dudes had
virtually any part of the to stay home to watch the shop,
Southwest where a reasonable if they still had a shop to watch.
road or trail could be discerned. Trips were cut from the Indian
By then, too, dudes were being Detours. The equipment started
picked up at other points along to age. The national highway
the Santa Fe Railroad, such as system improved through the
Winslow, Ariz., where they 1930s until it was a practical idea
were lodged at La Posada. for the average family to drive
The influence of the Indian out West in their own car. Then
Detours on the Southwest World War II came and the
cannot be minimized, although Detours stopped altogether for
few people today are aware of lack of gas and tires. Although
the entire story. The first the business was revived after
generation of Americans to the war — tours were conducted
explore the Southwest into the early 1950s — it was not
comfortably, as tourists, did so the high-toned operation of the
with the Indian Detours. The early days. The glitter had long
20th century arrived in many since faded from the original
parts of the Southwest in a dream.
Harvey car. The Detours was a colorful
A brief, planned excursion touring business that happened
from a long cross-country train along at just the right time and
trip was the mainstay of the place. There was never another
Indian Detours. The cost of the quite like it in this country. And
tours included all expenses. Tour although the dudes missed the
number six, for example, was an frontier, they, too, were
overnight jaunt to Taos. On the pioneers in their own way. If the
way up from Santa Fe, the dudes Indian Detours has an image of
passed by Black Mesa, visited its own, it is probably that of the
the modern Indian pueblos of early days . . . the dusty touring
Santa Clara and San Ildefonso, car, the colorful chauffeur and
and climbed among the ruins courier, and the natty dudes, all
and cliff dwellings at Puye on heading for a distant pass on a
the southern escarpment of the dirt road. D
JULY 1982/DESERT 73
Moving to the Desert
29 Palms, California
Text and photos by Marvin Patchen
After World War I, the U.S. California's San Bernardino 29 Palms' broad Adobe Avenue
government searched for a place County, the town is in a broad is one of the two principle streets
offering clean air, sunshine, and valley between the Bullion, Little that serve the shopping needs of
low humidity so that those San Bernardino, and Pinto the community. Residents must
suffering lung damage from gas Mountains and next to the travel 25 miles to Yucca Valley for
attacks could recuperate. They 558,000-acre Joshua Tree
settled on 29 Palms. It was an National Monument. the major department stores and
oasis that had been discovered in In 1927, Frank and Helen car dealerships, but all other
1855, and the nearby Dale Mines Bagley established the area's first major needs can be fulfilled in 29
had yielded more than $3 million store in a garage that also served Palms. The mountains in the
in gold by 1900. as their home. The Bagley store background are part of the half-
The government proved to became the focal point for 29 million-acre Joshua Tree
have made a correct choice: 90 Palms homesteaders, with part National Monument.
percent of the injured men of the store devoted to a post
recovered. The community office and a tiny library. A well
became noted as having the was nearby and the pioneer
perfect climate for those with families would routinely stop at
respiratory problems. Bagleys for mail, provisions,
Located in Southern water, and the local gossip.
74 DESERT/JULY 1982
the perfect showcase for Real Estate
(second homes, ranches, etc.) and
art advertisements in . . . DESERT TREASURES
Tucson, Arizona
Six acres, with views of Sabino Canyon
and the rugged Catalina Mountains, sur-
round this three-level contemporary
home of six bedrooms and five and a half
baths. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the liv-
ing room open to the desert landscape,
and a fireplace and wet bar add their
cheer. On the lower level is a game room
with fireplace wall and wet bar, which
leads to a patio with a 50-foot pool. The
master suite, with its huge double bath,
Roman tub and shower, also has its own
fireplace. Brochure. $1,000,000
MILLER HOMES
4800 Sabino Canyon Rd.
(602) 749-5544
Tucson, AZ 85715
Tucson, Arizona
Nearly four acres seclude this romantic
adobe residential compound in Catalina
Foothills Estates. Walled patios surround
the main house — an authentic Jorseler
creation — and a breezeway leads to a
three-room guest house. There is a brick
caretaker's house, as well. Within, high-
planked ceilings, three fireplaces and col-
orful floors of flagstone, tile and painted
concrete create a true Southwestern aura.
The master suite has two sitting rooms,
one with a fireplace and the other open-
ing to a patio and a 40-foot pool. Brochure
HH-715424. $650,000
PREVIEWS INC.
5670 Wilshire Blvd.
(213) 937-0703
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Tucson, Arizona
On more than three acres with a four-
stall horse barn and three fenced exercise
runs, this adobe ranch home centers on a
beamed living room with fireplace and
views of the Catalina Mountains. Along
with three family bedrooms, three and a
half baths, and separate maid's quarters,
there's a family room overlooking an
adobe-walled heated pool and patio with
the city lights far below. There's also a
separate guest house with bath and
beamed ceiling. $329,000
PETER W. WARE
GIBSON & WARE REALTY ASSOC.
2700 N. Campbell Ave. - _ , •
(602) 323-9393
or 299-3211
Tucson, AZ 85719
In 1940, the army established a traveled to Banning to meet the This 29 Palms home is in the
glider training base at the nearby train from Los Angeles. This "custom" price range, but most
Mesquite Dry Lake, which later driver was armed with various housing prices are within the
became a fighter base. After shopping lists of items to buy in budgets of moderate-income
World War II, the Navy and the Banning stores because they
Marines took over the base and were unavailable at Bagleys. families.
the operations have grown ever The moderate cost of housing
since. The base population is is the prime reason that many
now 7,500. choose to live in 29 Palms. Some
Outside the base, today's desert locales target on higher-
population is approximately income groups, offering many
11,500. Although 29 Palms has luxury homes. 29 Palms does
but a few major chain stores, have some fine homes with
there is no lack of the usual appealing architecture, but the
services and businesses. There is ratio is small compared to many
also a fire department, a sheriff's other desert localities. Much of
department, and complete the housing has been designed
health, recreation, legal, and to appeal to moderate income
library services. and military families who prefer
Public transportation needs to live off the base.
are served by buses that go to For those who prefer acreage
Palm Springs and Los Angeles. there are numerous small cabins
The community also has taxis or homes in the outlying areas.
and a new commuter airline. Some are served with wells or
This is a far cry from the 1930s electricity, others are not. A shell
and '40s, when transportation cabin with five acres but no
and shopping were handled by a water will cost about $3,500 to
station wagon driver who $7,000, according to Barbara
76 DESERT /JULY 1982
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Calendar
12th Annual Jim Butler Days, May 27-31, Annual Green Faire and Arts and Crafts
at various locations in Tonopah, Nev. Festival, June 4-6, at Red Rock State Park
Activities include dances, a parade, in Church Rock, N.M. For details,
Liars Contest, gunfighters, and more. contact Martin Link, Mgr., P.O. Box 328,
It's more FUN when For details, contact the Tonopah Church Rock, N.M. 87311, or call (505)
you DRIVE — Cheaper, too! Chamber of Commerce, 301 Brougher 722-5564.
St., Tonopah, Nev. 89409, or call
Let SANBORN'S handle your (702) 482-3859.
Mexico vehicle insurance. We're the San Bernardino County Historical Bottle &
biggest — and best — in this business. Collectibles Club 14th Annual Show and
Write for our free Mexico Trip- Yucca Valley's Annual Grubstake Days, Sale, June 5-6, at the County
Planner. Lots of good, practical info May 28-31, on Highway 62, east of the Fairgrounds in Victorville, Calif. Hours:
plus samples of our famous mile-by- 5th, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 6th, 9 a.m. to 3
mile MEXICO ^TRAVELOG.
K-Mart in Yucca Valley, Calif. All-day
events include a carnival, parade, art p.m. For more information, contact
festival, and a golf tournament. For Gary Crabtree, P.O. Box 3843, San
details, contact the Yucca Valley Bernardino, Calif. 92413, or call (714)
Chamber of Commerce, 7211 Joshua 884-6596.
Mexico Insurance Service Lane, Suite 8, Yucca Valley, Calif. 92284,
- Since 1 9 4 8 - or call Nancy Wilson at (714) 365-6323. 16th Annual Rockatomics Gem & Mineral
Box 1210 * McAllen, TX 78502-9985 Show, June 5-6, at 8500 Fallbrook Ave.,
(512) 682-3401 Golden State Roundup, Annual Square Canoga Park, Calif. Hours: 5th, 10 a.m.
Dance Festival, May 28-30, at the Civic to 8 p.m.; 6th, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The
Auditorium in San Francisco, Calif. show includes exhibits, dealers,
Activities include square dancing and demonstrations, and a country store.
round dancing, plus exhibitions. Hours: For details, contact George Cogswell,
28th, 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; 29th, 10 7338 Mason Ave., Canoga Park, Calif.
a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; 30th, 10 a.m. to 11 91306, or call (213) 348-8392.
p.m. For information and details,
contact Parker or Jill Brown, 1587 Cactus and Succulent Show and Sale, June
Mizzen Lane, Half Moon Bay, 5-6, at the San Bernardino County
Calif. 94019. Museum, 2024 Orange Tree Lane, San
Bernardino, Calif. Hours: 5th, 10 a.m. to
Newberry Springs Art Show, May 29-30, 5 p.m.; 6th, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. This show
at the Community Center Building in and sale is sponsored by the Gates
Newberry Springs, Calif. Hours: 10 Cactus and Succulent Society. For
RAISED RELIEF MAPS a.m. to 5 p.m., both days. This is a fine details, contact Doris Lutz, 1228 Lugo,
SHOW A LOT MORE . . . of the terrain arts show open to all artists residing in Apt. B, San Bernardino, Calif. 92404, or
of the eastern/western regions of the the upper desert. For information, call (714) 885-7692.
U. S. Mainland and Hawaii. contact the Newberry Springs Art Club,
See the Adirondacks, Appalachians, Rockies,
Sierras and other great outdoor areas in 3-D. P.O. Box 23, Newberry Springs, Sunset Days, June 11-19, in Sunset,
Printed in 6 colors, these 22"x33" maps each Calif. 92365. Utah. Activities include a pageant,
represent approximately 70x110 miles and marathon, rodeo, and carnival. For
provide accurate visual information about:
Wooded areas — Mountains, hills and valleys Memorial Day Pow Wow, May 29-31, in more information, call (801) 825-6202.
— Streams, lakes and reservoirs — Elevation River Park on Grant St., in Lebanon,
contours — Political boundaries — Urban Second National Solar Cook-Off, June 12,
areas and roads — Landmarks.
Ore. This event is sponsored by the All
Reference for: Fishing — hunting — skiing — Rockhounds Pow Wow Club of America at McCormick Railroad Park in
camping — backpacking — flying. and activities will include tailgaters, Scottsdale, Ariz. Solar cooker
Send coupon for free index map/order form. swappers, entertainment, and potluck enthusiasts are invited to bring their
dinners. For more information, contact cookers and favorite recipes for the
H U D D A R D Northbrook, IL60062 Nadine Greenlee, 7043 S. Clement, cooking contests. Also included are
Please send FREE descriptive information. Tacoma, Wash. 98409. displays and exhibits. For information,
contact the Arizona Solar Energy
Name. Annual Pioneer Days Celebration, June Association, P.O. Box 25396, Phoenix,
3-6, at the Curry County Fairgrounds in Ariz. 85002, or call Doris Stutzman at
Address.
Clovis, N.M. For more information, (602)993-2649.
City .State. -Zip. contact J. R. Spencer, Clovis Chamber
(Dealer inquiries invited) DM of Commerce, 215 Main St., Drawer C, Old Fort Days, June 8-13, at Fort
Clovis, N.M. 88101. Sumner, N.M. Events include a beauty
80 DESERT/JULY 1982
pageant, parade, junior rodeo, BBQ, Fairgrounds, Prineville, Ore. Dealer
fiddlers contest, and much more. For booths, rock auctions, field trips, and
details, contact Fort Sumner Chamber much more will be included in the
of Commerce, Fort Sumner, N.M. 88119. events. For more information, call (503)
447-6760, or write, Prineville Six
Annual Fiesta at Mission San Antonio, Rockhound Pow Wow Association, P.O. exhibit halls
June 13, in Jolon, Calif. After Mass, Box 671, Prineville, Ore. 97754. dedicated to the
from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., there is a BBQ horse. From early Greek
and dance. For more information, 1982 Reno Rodeo, June 22-27, in Reno, to modern times.
contact San Antonio Mission, Jolon, Nev. The country's largest added
Calif. 93928, or call (408) 385-4478. money rodeo will include bronc,
bareback, and bull riding; calf roping;
Tigua Saint Anthony's Day Ceremony, steer wrestling; and much more. For
June 13, at the Tigua Reservation near El details and ticket information, contact
Paso, Texas. Special ceremonies and Connie Emerson, 1055 W. Moana Lane,
dances will be presented. For details, Suite 200, Reno, Nev. 89509, or call (702)
call (915) 859-3916. 826-0600.
"Texas," June 16-Aug. 21, in the Pioneer Utah Arts Festival, June 23-27, in Salt
Amphitheatre in Palo Duro Canyon Lake City, Utah. Program includes
State Park, near Amarillo and Canyon, performing and visual arts, crafts
Texas. This musical drama of Texas demonstrations, children's art yards,
history will be held on Monday through and international cuisine. For details,
Saturday nights. For information and call (801) 533-5895. Original Remingtons • Russell
reservations, call (806) 655-2181, or Bronze • One of Four Kachina
write P.O. Box 268, Canyon, Texas The Santa Fe Festival Theatre, June Chess Sets in The World • West-
79015. 28-Aug. 29, at The Armory for the Arts, e r n T r e a s u r e s Valued at
1050 Old Pecos Trail, Santa Fe, N.M. $1,000,000.
Golden Spike Oldtime Fiddlers Contest & The season includes three plays: "Wild Fine Indian crafts for sale in the gift shop.
Bluegrass Festival, June 17-19, in Ogden, Oats, " "Wings," and "Amerika." For
Utah. Events include national reservation information and a free Just 60 miles south of Tucson on S-83
competitions and concerts day and brochure, contact The Festival Theatre, in historic Patagonia, Arizona
night. For information, call (801) P.O. Box DD, Santa Fe, N.M. 87502, or Open daily 9 to 5
399-8288. call (505) 983-9400. Your host: Anne Stradling
Gem and Mineral Exhibits at the 1982 Annual Butterfield Trail Days, July 3-4, at
Southern California Exposition, June the Luna County Courthouse Park in
18-July 5, at the Del Mar Fairgrounds in Deming, N.M. Festivities include a "I guarantee
Del Mar, Calif. Features include
gemstone faceting, creation of jewelry,
parade, flea market, watermelon-eating
contest, pet show, and BBQ. For more
mD&EMM \nill
and many other exhibits. For information, contact Mike Levine, P.O. make your Rl/or Boat
information, contact Fairgrounds, Del Box 850, Deming, N.M. 88031.
Mar, Calif. 92014, or call (714) 755-6940 Refrigerator cool
or(714)275-2705. Hopi Craftsman Show, July 3-7, at the
Museum of Northern Arizona in
better and faster!"
Aztec Fiesta Days, June 18-20, in Aztec, Flagstaff, Ariz. For information, call
N.M. Activities include parade, arts and (602) 774-5211.
crafts fair, raft races, and a junior rodeo.
For details, contact the Aztec Chamber Festival '82, July 7-11, in downtown El
of Commerce, 125 N. Main St., Aztec, Paso, Texas. Festival includes historic
N.M. 87410. exhibits, ethnic foods, dance, and
music. For details, contact the El Paso Clyde Stram, President
Lassen Rocks & Mineral Society Show, June Convention and Visitors Bureau, Five Fridge-Mate
19-20, at the Lassen County Civic Center Plaza, El Paso, Texas 79999, Sour Milk? Frozen Lettuce? Spoiled Meat?
Fairgrounds in Susanville, Calif. Hours: or call (915) 544-3650. These problems are caused by lack of air
19th, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 20th, 10 a.m. to circulation inside your RV refrigerator.
5p.m. Events include exhibits, Rodeo de Santa Fe, July 8-11, in Santa Fe, • Fridge-Mate's constant action keeps cold air
circulating around cooling fins.
demonstrations, field trip, dealers, N.M. Top rodeo performers from all • Maintains an even cold temperature
silent auction, and tailgating. For over the country gather for four days of throughout your refrigerator.
further information, contact Rose tough competition. For more • Runs continuously over 30 days on 2 Size
Reiling, 35 Inspiration Dr., Susanville, information, contact Rodeo, P.O. Box "D" Alkaline Batteries.
• No installation required. 100% portable.
Calif. 96130. 281, Santa Fe, N.M. 87501, or caU (505) • Shortens cool-down time
471-2567. for trip preparation. $.4 c 9 5 Plus $1 Postage
Festival of the Arts, June 19-July 30, in • One year guarantee. and Handling.
Flagstaff, Ariz. The festival starts on the Annual Fiesta and Barbecue, July 17-18, at P.O. Box 22697, San Diego
CA 92122 (714) 271-8984
19th with a fiesta grande dinner and art Mission San Luis Rey, near Oceanside, Rush _ Fridge-Mates @ $15.95 + $1.00 ea. for postage
auction. For details, contact the Flagstaff Calif. Hours: Sat. and Sun., 10 a.m. to 8 and handling. Calif, residents 96c ea. sales tax.
Total enclosed (check or M O . ) $
Chamber of Commerce, 101 W. Santa p.m. Entertainment, BBQ, and the
Master Charge & Visa accepted. Send card No.and Exp. date.
Fe, Flagstaff, Ariz. 86001. arrival of trek-riders are featured. For
NAME .
details, contact Mission San Luis Rey,
ADDRESS
Prineville Rockhounds Pow Wow, June 4050 Mission Ave., San Luis Rey, Calif.
CITY STATE ZIP
19-27, at the Crook County 92068. • (Also available at many RV Accessory Stores)
JULY 1982/DESERT 81
The Roadrunner
The roadrunner's image and
name is on every kind of
business imaginable, from beer
halls to beauty parlors. Its
likeness appears on ashtrays,
glasses, greeting cards, rugs,
clothing, and jewelry. There are
ceramic and wood-carved
roadrunners, many of which are
made in other countries. A car
manufacturer used the name
"roadrunner" to sell cars. It is
also a famous cartoon character.
me
UVJMG
DG9GRT
RG9GRMC
• WILDLIFE EXHIBITS,
MANY IN AIR
CONDITIONED COMFORT.
• WILDFLOWER DISPLAYS
• BOTANICAL GARDENS
• NATURE TRAILS
• AVIARIES
• INDIAN CULTURES
• SHADED PICNIC TABLES
, . ' • . . ' • • ,
NOCONAiil
Ask for Nocona Boots where quality western boots are sold. Style shown • 5019 handcratted in Sunkist Tan Veal.
NOCONA BOOT COMPANY/ ENID JUSTIN, PRESIDENT / BOX 599 / NOCONA, TEXAS 76255 / 817-825-3321