Rebuilding the Kenwood piggybacked power switch

This covers the KR-4070 specifically, since this is what I have. But a similar device is used on the
following model series: KR-2090, 3090, 4070, 5030, 6030 and KR-2010, 3010, 4010, 5010, 6050. There
may be others.

Step 1: Unplug it. You are going to be working with at least one of the power leads and around some amp
outputs all wires you do not want to lick. On this model, locate the switch and the amp board outputs
(with associated plug)


Step 2: Unplug the amp outputs at the inline plug


Step 3: There is an aluminum shaft that connects the speaker switch to the power switch.


This shaft is almost rectangular in shape to key it to both devices. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to pull
it out to the rear, being careful not to damage any PCB components.

Step 4: Now to remove the switch. On this unit, the power switch is held in a cage by 4 metal tabs that
extend over some plastic ears in the switch body. Other units had 2 small nuts on bolts holding it and is
probably similar but I cannot confirm that. This will deal with the caged version.

I used a small common screwdriver to bend the tabs out just far enough to clear the ears. Look closely at
the picture.














Step 5: Once done, gently pry the switch up out of the cage, careful not to bend or break anything. IT
might seem hard, but it will come with little force. There is enough wire to pull the switch off to the side for
work room WITHOUT desoldering the wires.


Step 6: The switch case will easily separate into 2 halves. If you have a single contact version, then there is
only 2 metal tabs out of the top with wires soldered to them. If you have the double contact version then
there is 2 more tabs out the bottom. When you separate the switch halves you will see how simple the
contacts are.


Step 7: clean the contacts. They are only held in by a snug fit in some channels cut into the switch. The
contacts are copper strips with a dissimilar metal contact area. Since alignment is spotty, the designers
chose to make both contacts hemispherical in nature such that misalignment still results in a connection.
They corrode from the elements and pit from the current. I used some fine steel wool used for gun cleaning
to put a shine on EVERY contact.

I am of the opinion that the corrosion is naturally occurring because the non-connected contacts were also
corroded. It seems once this starts, the pitting makes it worse. You could use a file to remove the pitting.
Step 8: reassemble the switch, paying attention to the orientation of the cam. The first click of the knob
makes the contact and each successive one preserves it hence the cam. When you put this together, the
cam will be right before the point where contact is broken, such that the hole for the aluminum shaft will
be slightly cocked to one side. (If you get this wrong, when you plug it in it will turn on and never turn off
and can be fixed via turning the aluminum shaft with pliers, once you pull it partway out of the speaker
portion)

Step 9: cut 2 2.5 lengths of wire appx 16 ga and strip 3/8 from each end. If you have a double pole
model, these wires will be used to jump over to the second set of contacts to give 2 current paths.

Step 10: solder the wire to the bottom, unused contacts ONLY! This is because the switch must be inserted
back into the cage without the wires connected as they will not fit the cage is tight.

Step 11: Start to re-insert the switch into the cage, but first put the new wire ends down in the cage, then
using needle-nose, pull the wires thru and up out of the way as you push the switch down in.

Step 12: Use a common screwdriver to push the tabs back inward so they cover the ears on the switch,
now you are together.

Step 13: Fire up the soldering gun and solder the other end of each wire to the upper tab, staying on the
same side. There is a fair amount of solder on there by kenwood that you can start to melt to hold the wire
in place, but use fresh solder to give a big glob. Then once done push the wires off to the side out of the
way.

Step 14: re-insert the aluminum shaft. It will go in slightly cocked, then as you push it close to the speaker
switch, use a needle nose to flatten it out and push into the speaker switch.

Step 15: Plug the amp output inline plug back in, plug the unit into the wall and turn the on/off switch. If it
comes on when you want it to and turns off when you want it to you are done.