Female haircuts

Short, rounded layers

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Short, rounded layers

This haircut has an androgynous look and can be effective for both men and women.
It is a versatile haircut which has a rounded shape but also a soft outline.
Our stylist has chosen to leave length through the side areas, taking hair over the ears. If the hair
had been taken behind the ears, the look would have been much shorter and stronger.
The short, rounded layers haircut is a modern interpretation of the show bowl-like shape that was
created in the 1960s by Vidal Sassoon. You will often find that, as fashion evolves, it is the length of
the haircut that changes.

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Haircut guide
Before starting your haircut:
complete your client and hair analysis;
with your client, decide how long the cut should be; and
make sure your client is wearing a protective gown and is sitting
comfortably.
Creating short, rounded layers
This haircut is created by layering the hair first, then cutting the
perimeter.
Cutting
Start your haircut at the front area using a top box section.
From your top box section take a profile line.
Hold the hair at 90 degrees to the headshape.
If you want to create length at the front of your haircut, direct the hair
backwards at the front hairline. You should have determined the
length of the cut at your client consultation.
Always remember to round your fingers so that you will create a
rounded shape in the hair.
Blend the profile line into the back area. Your profile line should be
one finger width only. This will help you to control your sections.
Take your guideline for the back area from the crown area.
Remember to hold the hair at a 90 degree angle to the head at all
times.
Work down from the crown to the occipital area and then into the nape
area.
The headshape is rounded. To maintain your angle when you are
working at the nape area, you may find it easier to cut inside your
fingers.
When you have created your profile line, you can then start to layer
the back area.
Using fan-like sections and following your guideline, work out from the
centre point at the crown towards the back of the ear.
Continue to work through the fan-like sections into the occipital area
and down into the nape. Remember to:
keep the hair wet at all times;

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 cut the hair to the same length as your guideline;

hold the hair at 90 degrees to the headshape; and
round your fingers slightly to obtain a rounded layer.
Blending in the front area
Take fan-like sections, starting at the top of the crown and working to
just behind the back of the ear.

Work through your sections from the ear up towards a centre parting
at the front hairline, following your guideline carefully.
Repeat on the other side.
Cross-check your haircut for balance:
if you cut vertically, cross-check horizontally
if you cut horizontally, cross-check vertically.
After completing the layers, the next step is to cut the perimeter
shape.
This is your opportunity to personalise your haircut.
The layers in the hair create a soft, rounded look and give the outline
a soft edge. Our stylist has chosen to point cut the nape, sides and
fringe areas to maintain a soft look.
There are a number of techniques you could use to finish this haircut.
For example, you could blunt cut the hair at the perimeter to give a
hard, bold look.
Once you have mastered the technique of creating short, rounded
layers, you will be able to try out these finishing techniques. With
practice, you will know the most effective way to personalise your
haircuts.

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Step 1 of 25 - Before you start

There are many factors you should take into account before you start
your haircut: hairlines, growth patterns, hair quality, quantity and
texture, and face shape.
Hairlines
Client consultation is the most important part of your work and
checking hairlines is an essential element of your hair analysis. The
areas to look at are:

Nape
Side
Front
Crown

You should always look at these areas when the hair is dry and again
when it is wet after shampooing. Your client could have used a
mousse or gel product on their hair that will give you a false
impression of their hairline growth.
Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for
uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes. You will need to take
account of these when you are cutting.
Hair-growth patterns
You need to take your client's hair growth pattern into consideration
when you are cutting their hair because some patterns influence how
a cut is carried out. The most common ones are:

Double crown
Nape whorls
Calf licks
Widow's peak

If your client has any of these growth patterns, you should cut without
using pressure to allow for the natural movement of the hair.
You may need to cut the sections of hair within the growth patterns
longer than the rest of the hair. This allows for the movement of the
hair as it springs back to how it falls naturally. The hair looks level
even though it has not been cut level.
Quality of hair
The quality of hair means the condition. Good quality hair is easy to
style. Hair that is thin and brittle is more difficult so you will need to
use styling agents such as mousse or gel.
Quantity

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Quantity refers to the density of hair how much hair is on the head
and how thick or fine the hair shape is.
These factors are important when you are thinking about the balance
and control of a hair style. For example, it is easy to show volume on
thick hair. On thin hair it is more difficult so you need to use styling
gels and mousses.
When you are applying chemical treatments, the thickness of your
client's hair will dictate how much product and what techniques you
use. For example, fine hair can be more resistant to colour and perm
treatments.
Texture
There are three types of hair texture:
Fine
Medium/normal
Thick/coarse
The texture of your client's hair affects the size of the sections you
take. For thicker hair, you need finer sections to make sure the
guideline is visible. You need to see the guideline to know exactly
where to cut each section of hair.
In this case, our model's face shape is square.
Her hair type is naturally curly and it's density is above average.
Divide the hair cut into segments: back; side; front; and internal layers.
Facial features and face shape
The shape of your client's face and head are unique. Use your
observation skills to identify their individual features.
Your haircut should enhance their good features, eg their eyes and
cheek bones, and disguise their less attractive features, eg a heavy
jaw or big nose.
The different face shapes are:
Oval, round and heart-shaped these faces have curved contours
ranging from gentle to extreme. A softer hairstyle is more compatible
with these face shapes.
Square, rectangle and triangle these face shapes are angular
and solid and have a chiselled look. Sharp, blunt cuts suit these faces
much better than soft styles.

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Step 2 of 25 - Top box section

You will create short, rounded layers for this haircut.
Take your first section from the top box area.
Take a section back from either side of the central eye area towards
the top of the crown.
Tip:
Keep the hair wet at all times. This will help
you work cleanly and create a more precise
haircut.

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Step 3 of 25 - Profile line

Starting at the crown area, take a section from the centre of the top
box area. This will be your profile line.
Hold the hair at 90 degrees from the head and start to cut your line,
working forwards.
You should determine the length you want to achieve at the client
consultation stage. Our model's hair was already short on top so it
was easy to determine the length we would achieve in the finished
result.
Tip:
If you client has very long hair, it is
particularly important to agree at the
consultation stage what length you are
aiming for in your finished result.

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Step 4 of 25 - Front area

Continue your section towards the front hairline.

If you want to create length at the front hairline, pull the section back
and away from the head.
Always pull the hair up at a 90 degree angle to the head.
Notice the angle of our stylist's fingers. They are slightly rounded to
achieve a rounded layer.

Step 5 of 25 - Blend profile line into back area

Work into the back area, using your central profile line.
To maintain control of your section and help you see your guidelines
clearly, your profile line should be no more than the width of one
finger.

Make sure the client's head is in a slightly downward position.

Tip:
To create balanced weight distribution and
even layers, your profile line must be in the
centre of the head at this stage of your
haircut.

(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 6 of 25 - Blending in the crown area

Using your profile line from the crown as your guide, blend in the
crown area.
Remember to hold the section of hair at a 90 degree angle from the
head and keep your fingers curved to follow the shape of the head.
The client's head should be in an upright position to allow you to
achieve this angle more easily.

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Step 7 of 25 - Blending in the occipital area

Work downwards from the crown into the occipital area, blending in
your guideline.
Pulling the hair at 90 degrees to the head with maximum tension, cut
all the hair to the same length.
Remember to keep the hair wet.

Step 8 of 25 - Blending in the nape area

The headshape is rounded at the nape area and the head is flatter.
This can make it difficult to achieve the correct angle.
Notice how our stylist is cutting inside the fingers. As you work down
into the nape area, you may find it easier to cut do this. But remember
to keep the hair at 90 degrees to the head and cut it all to the same
length.
Your profile line determines the length of your overall haircut. If you
want to cut the hair short at the nape, you will need to create a short
profile line.
Tip:
When layering the nape area, you may find
it easier to cut inside your fingers. The
headshape is flatter here and it is difficult to
achieve the necessary angle.

(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 9 of 25 - Back area layering

The next step of your haircut is to create fan-like sections, coming out
from the centre of the head.
Here, our stylist has separated out the sections before cutting. You
may find this helpful. It will allow you to see clearly your sectioning
pattern.
Remember:
keep the hair wet at all times;
pull the hair out at 90 degrees to the head; and
hold your fingers in a rounded angle to create a rounded layer.
Tip:
Don't round your fingers too much, you will
create a heavy haircut. Graduate the angle.

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Step 10 of 25 - Back area layering

Progress through the fan-like sections, working from the centre point
at the crown. Using your guideline, work towards the back of the ear.
Notice how our stylist's fingers are slightly curved. This enables the
stylist to achieve the correct angle for cutting the layers.

Step 11 of 25 - Back area layering

Continue working through your sections into the occipital and nape
areas. Cut all the hair to the same length.
Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the head, again
taking fan-like sections from the central point.
Check the balance of your cut. To achieve balance, it is vital that your
sections and cutting angles are the same on both sides.
Tip:
Stand on the opposite side of the head to
the side that you are cutting. You will find it
more comfortable to work and will be able to
see your guidelines more clearly.

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(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 12 of 25 - Cross-checking
It is vital that, as soon as you have finished cutting an area of layering
in your haircut, you cross-check it against other areas.
When you are cross-checking, work in the opposite direction to your
cutting angle:
If you cut your layering vertically, cross-check horizontally.
If you cut your layering horizontally, cross-check vertically.
Our stylist has cut vertically down the headshape so they are
cross-checking the haircut horizontally.
Tip:
When you cross-check your layering, you
should be taking off only a minimum amount
of hair, if any at all. If you have to cut much
hair off, check that you are not
cross-checking at the wrong angle.

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Step 13 of 25 - Finished back area

It is best not to cut the nape hairline this stage of your haircut.
You should have established during your consultation whether your
client wants you to create a soft look at the nape. If so, you can add
this when you have completed the rest of your haircut.

Step 14 of 25 - Blending in the front area

Create a centre parting from the crown to the front hairline.
You can now work the front area in two sections. This will allow you to
check the balance of the haircut. It will also provide you with a
blending point.

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Step 15 of 25 - Blending in the front area

Take a fan-shaped section from the top of the crown to behind the
ear.
This section will provide you with a guideline. Use this guideline to
work your other fan-like sections from the back into the front area.
Remember to hold each section at a 90 degree angle from the head
as you work it into the front.
Tip:
Take care when creating your guideline at
this stage of your haircut. Because you use
it to blend in the front area, it can alter the
whole look.

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Step 16 of 25 - Blending in the front area

Starting at the back of the crown behind the ear, work through the
fan-like sections.
Pull the hair out at 90 degrees to the head. Curve your fingers to
follow the curve of the headshape.
Continue working up towards your centre parting.

Step 17 of 25 - Blending in the front area

As you blend in the front area, remember to:

keep the hair wet at all times;

use maximum tension; and
pull the hair out 90 degrees to the headshape.

Step 18 of 25 - Blending in the front area

As you start to work forwards towards the front hairline, take fan-like
sections.
Work upwards towards the centre parting.

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Step 19 of 25 - Front area

Here, our stylist is using a fan-like sectioning pattern to work around
the front area.
At this stage of your haircut, your guideline is very clear. You have
one guide at the base of the crown and another from your previous
section.
Tip:
Always follow your guideline. To keep a
strong, precise guideline, use fine
sectioning patterns and keep the hair wet.

Step 20 of 25 - Repeat on the other side

Our stylist has worked up to the centre parting, reaching the last
section on this side of the head.
When you have reached the last section on one side of the head,
repeat the same procedure on the other side.
To make sure you achieve a balanced haircut, you should use the
same:
sectioning patterns
cutting angle
guidelines
Cross-check as you work and keep the hair wet.

(see top of next page for diagram)

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Step 21 of 25 - Cross-checking
As soon as you have finished cutting one area of layering in your
haircut, you should cross-check it against other areas.
When you are cross-checking, work in the opposite direction to your
cutting angle:
If you cut your layering vertically, cross-check horizontally.
If you cut your layering horizontally, cross-check vertically.

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Step 22 of 25 - Personalising your haircut

Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your
haircut.
With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the
nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length
and give you a soft-looking result.
How you personalise your haircut will depend on the finished look you
agreed with your client during the consultation stage.
Tip:
No one can teach you how to personalise
your haircuts. This is when you can stamp
your own creativity on your work.

Step 23 of 25 - Personalising your haircut

Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your
haircut.
With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the
nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length
and give you a soft-looking result.
How you personalise your haircut will depend on the finished look you
agreed with your client during the consultation stage.

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Step 24 of 25 - Personalising your haircut

Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your
haircut.
With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the
nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length
and give you a soft-looking result.
How you personalise your haircut will depend on the finished look you
agreed with your client during the consultation stage.

Step 25 of 25 - Finished result

As you can see from our finished result the rounded shape can be
seen.
The hair was Blow dryed using a Vent brush to create a soft result.

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