Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1: Introduction (Jan. 26) [NOTE: Readings must be completed before first class session.]
-Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Discourse on the Arts and Sciences (1750), in The Rise of Fashion (pp. 37-48)
-Christian Garve, On Fashion (1792), in The Rise of Fashion (pp. 65-71)
-Wilson, Adorned in Dreams (Chapters 2 and 3, History of Fashion/Explaining It Away) (pp. 16-66)
UNIT 1: LAW AND THE STATE
2: Dress As Law (Feb. 2)
-Daniel Purdy, ed., The Rise of Fashion: A Reader (Minnesota 2004) (Introduction, 1-19)
-Gary Watt, Dress, Law, and Naked Truth (Dress Is Law; Foundations of the State of Dress)
3: Laws on Dress (Feb. 9)
-Samuel Simon Witte, An Answer to the Question: Would It Be Harmful or Beneficial to Establish a
National Uniform? (1791), in The Rise of Fashion (pp. 72-78)
-Alan Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law (1996) (Chapter 2, A
Short History of Sumptuary Law, pp. 17-42)
-Ruthann Robson, Beyond Sumptuary: Constitutionalism, Clothes, and Bodies in Anglo-American Law,
1215-1789, 2:2 British Journal of American Legal Studies 477-509 (Fall 2013)
NO CLASS FEBRUARY 16 (UNIVERSITY HOLIDAY)
4: Dress and Nationalism/Imperialism (Feb. 23)
-Toby Slade, Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History (2009) (pp. 65-77)
-Lawrence Glickman, Make Lisle the Style: The Politics of Fashion in the Japanese Silk Boycott, 19371940, 38 Journal of Social History 573-608 (Spring 2005)
-Mimi Thi Nguyen, The Biopower of Beauty: Humanitarian Imperialisms and Global Feminisms in an
Age of Terror, in 36 Signs 359-383 (Winter 2011) (supplement on Foucaults notion of biopower)
UNIT 2: SEX AND GENDER
5: Concerning Women (Mar. 2)
-Wilson, Adorned in Dreams (Chapter 6, Gender and Identity) (pp. 117-133)
-Michael Zakim, Sartorial Ideologies: From Homespun to Ready-Made, 106:5 Am. Hist. Review (2001)
-The New Costume for the Ladies and The New Dress, The Lily (1851), in The Rise of Fashion
-Friedrich Vischer, Fashion and Cynicism (1879), in The Rise of Fashion (pp. 153-162)
-Georg Simmel, Adornment (1908), in The Rise of Fashion (pp. 79-84)
-Simone de Beauvoir, Social Life, from The Second Sex (1953), in The Rise of Fashion (pp. 126-136)
6: Concerning Men (Mar. 9)
-David Kuchta, The Three Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity (2002) (Chapter 6, pp. 133-78)
-Thomas Carlyle, The Dandiacal Body from Sartor Resartus (1831), in Rise of Fashion (165-73)
-J.C. Flgel, The Great Masculine Renunciation and Its Causes (1930), in Rise of Fashion (pp. 102-108)
-Hollander, Sex and Suits (pp. 30-62)
-Neil Spencer, Menswear in the 1980s, in Chic Thrills 40-48 (1992)
NO CLASS MARCH 16 (SPRING BREAK)
7: Recent Theoretical Approaches (Mar. 23)
-Judith Butler, Performative Acts and Gender Constitution: An Essay in Phenomenology and Feminist
Theory, 40 Theatre Journal 519-531 (1988)
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-Efrat Tselon, From Fashion to Masquerade: Towards an Ungendered Paradigm, Body Dressing (2001)
-Vrushali Patil, From Patriarchy to Intersectionality, 38 Signs 847-867 (2013)
UNIT 3: GROUPS AND SIGNALS
8: From Conspicuous Consumption to Symbolic Interactionism (Mar. 30)
-Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899), in Rise of Fashion (pp. 261-288)
-Georg Simmel, Fashion (1904), in Rise of Fashion (pp. 289-309)
-Edward Sapir, Fashion (1931)
-Herbert Blumer, Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection, 10 Soc. Quar. 275 (1969)
-Davis, Fashion, Culture, and Identity (Identity, Ambivalence, Fashions Fuel) (pp. 15-29)
9: The Semiotics of Fashion (Apr. 6)
-Jean Baudrillard, The System of Objects (1967) (Structures of Interior Design, pp. 15-29)
-Roland Barthes, Rhetoric of the Image (1964) (supplement: Barthes, The Fashion System, pp. 12-18)
-Allison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (1981) (short excerpt to be distributed in class)
-Davis, Fashion, Culture, and Identity (Do Clothes Speak? What Makes Them Fashion?) (pp. 3-15)
-Hollander, Sex and Suits (pp. 3-21)
10: Antifashion and Oppositional Dress (Apr. 13)
-Hollander, Sex and Suits (pp. 22-29)
-Wilson, Adorned in Dreams (Oppositional Dress, pp. 179-207)
-Davis, Fashion, Culture, and Identity (1992) (Antifashion, The Vicissitudes of Negation, pp. 159-188)
-Kobena Mercer, Black Hair/Style Politics, 3 New Formations 33-54 (1987)
11: Post-Oppositional Fashion? (Apr. 20)
-Davis, Fashion, Culture, and Identity (Conclusion, and Some Afterthoughts, pp. 191-206)
-Elizabeth Guffey, Retro: The Culture of Revival (2006) (pp. 9-22, 160-166)
-Charles E. Colman, Trademark Law and the Prickly Ambivalence of Post-Parodies, 163 U. Pa. L. Rev.
Online 11 (2014) (Section I only)
UNIT 4: THE MODERN CONSUMER
12: The Rise of Modern Fashion; Neo-Marxist Theory and Rebuttal (Apr. 27)
-Ellen Leopold, The Manufacture of the Fashion System, in Chic Thrills 101-117 (1992)
-Dana Thomas, Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster (2008) (pp. 39-71)
-Jean Baudrillard, The Consumer Society: Myths and Structures (transl. 1998) (Chapter 5, pp. 69-86)
-Gilles Lipovetsky, Empire of Fashion: reread four academic reviews distributed at beginning of semester
13: Invoking Post-Modernism (May 4)
-Fredric Jameson, Postmodernism and Consumer Society (Fall 1982)
-Elizabeth Wilson, Fashion and the Postmodern Body, in Chic Thrills 3-16 (1992)
-Kaiser et al., Fashion, Postmodernity and Personal Appearance, 14 Symbolic Interaction 165 (1991)
14: Reflections (May 11)
-Albertina Oliverio, The Hypermodern Individual: An Ideal-Type to Assist Understanding Contemporary
Social Change 1 Annual Review of Italian Sociology 65-77 (2007)
-Daniel Purdy, ed., The Rise of Fashion: A Reader (Minnesota 2004) (Introduction, 1-19) (reread in full)
FINAL PAPERS MUST BE SUBMITTED BY 2 P.M. ON MONDAY, MAY 18, 2015
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