Natural Beauty and Health through Aesthetic Sciences (1st Decade of Aesthetic Sciences and Health And 50th

Anniversary of KKU)

007-HCU

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Decade
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Natural Beauty and Health through AestheticSciences
Sciences and Health And 50th Anniversary of KKU)

Formulation
and

of
facial
mask from gelatinous pulp of Dillenia fruit
evaluation
1
1

012-KKU

*,

Saengrawee Sutthiparinyanont1*, Chakkapan Banpot1, Vongsakorn Kumsuwan1, Wanassnant Kajthunyakarn1,

2
2
Pathomthat

(
3)

, Padungkwan
Chitropas
Srisuk
vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion cold cream Franz-type diffusion cells
vanishing cream hydrophilic emulsion
Abstract
vanishing cream hydrophilic emulsion cold cream
Formulation
of
facial mask
from gelatinous
pulp
of Dillenia fruit
and
evaluation

o/w
1*
1
1
1
2
Saengrawee
Banpot , Vongsakorn
, Wanassnant
Kajthunyakarn
, .PathomthatSrisuk
Sutthiparinyanont
, Chakkapan
Higuchi
w/oKumsuwan

,
2
Padungkwan
Chitropas

flux vanishing cream cold

cream
Gelatinous pulps from Dillenia indica Linn. fruit are rich in pectin and nutrients. Mainly, gelling property and the presence
:
are

of
phenolic
antioxidants
expected
to apply forcosmeceutical
applications. The gelatinous pulp was used as gel base for
formulation natural facial mask. Properties of gelatinous pulp including pectin quantity, degree of esterification (DE), viscosity, pH,
and antioxidant activity were determined. Various concentrations of sucrose and calcium chloride were varies by 0.5, 1, 2, and 4
Abstract
times from pulp weight for receiving an appropriate gel base. Chosen gel base was then used to formulate facial mask with
In Vitro Release
Study
of Niacinamide
and Caffeine
from Different
CreamsStability and skin irritate testing of the product were
effective
ingredients
of licorice
extract, honey,
and concentration
parabens.
Jariyaporn Pumsakul1*, Sunee Channarong1
evaluated. The gelatinous pulp composed 1.1% pectin and 57.9%DE, behaved as pseudo plastic fluid, and exhibited pH about
The present
study of
wassucrose
to formulate
and study
the releaseviscosity
of niacinamide
(vitamin
) and
caffeine
from three
3.5. Increasing
proportional
and calcium
was increased
but reduced
pH ofB3gel
base.
Formulated
facialdifferent
mask
cream
bases,
vanishing
cream,
hydrophilic
emulsion
and
cold
cream.
The
releases
of
active
components
were
evaluated
using
was 93.9 cP viscosity, exhibited pH at 4.6, and presented antioxidant activity at IC50 = 9.47 mg/ml. It could stable during storage
Franz-type
diffusion
cells
with
artificial
membrane.
Both
vanishing
cream
and
hydrophilic
emulsion
are
the
same
in
o/w
type
time under switching temperature, as well as there was no skin irritation found in all volunteers. Consequently, skin friendlywith
of
difference in emulsifying agent and oil components. The vanishing cream is more liquid than hydrophilic emulsion where as the
gelatinous pulp could be modified and used for skin care and other cosmeceutical applications.
cold cream is w/o type with the most inflexible. In vitro releases of niacinamide and caffeine from three cream bases showed the
similar kinetics. Both niacinamide and caffeine showed the highest release amounts and the fastest rates in vanishing cream. The
Keywords:
Dillenia
indicaand
L., pectin,
lowest release
amounts
releasefacial
ratesmask
were found in cold cream. The results of the study suggest that the components and
types of cream bases strongly affect the release of the actives from the formulations.
1
2

Keywords:
Niacinamide,
caffeine,
release
profile,
cream,
whitening
School of Pharmaceutical
Sciences,
University
of Phayao,
Phayao,
Thailand

Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand

*1corresponding author: e-mail address; saengrawees@gmail.com, Tel. +66 54 466666 (#3192)
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Huachiew Chalermprakiet University, Samut Prakan 10540, Thailand

Introduction
Introduction

Hyperpigmentation
type of skincalled
darkened
by the
and used
post asinflammation.
Hyperpigmentation
commonly
Dillenia
indica Linn.is a(commonly
Saan
or
and
flavoring agent
in curries as wellis as
gelling
over
release
of
melanin
by
skin
cells.
It
may
cause
from
over
harmless
but
makes
the
skin
unattractive.
In
case
of
Mataad; Family Dilleniaceae) grows in the moist and
agent in jam and jelly preparations. Several partspost
of
1,2
exposure
to
the
sun
light,
hormone
imbalance,
skin
disorders
inflammation
evergreen forests of Thailand. The hard fruit are 4-5 inch
D.indica
such including
as leaf, acne,
bark, eczema
and fruitand
arecontact
widely dermatitis,
used as
in diameter, consisting of five tightly fitted imbricate sepals 193 traditional medicine. The extracts of the fruit exert an
enclosing numerous seeds embedded in a gelatinous pulp.
antioxidant activity in vitro3 and the gelatinous fruit pulp could
be used as mucoadhesive agent obtained in gel formulation.4
Its succulent gelatinous pulp is rich in nutrients, active
compounds, and especially pectin. The fruit is sour in taste
198

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Pectin is a complex polysaccharide consisting ofmethanol

(RCI Labscan, Bangkok, Thailand), ethanol and
galacturonic
acid,
galacturonic
acid
methyl
ester
and
sugar
hydrochloric
acid (Merck, Darmstadt, Germany).

5
1
1
It
is
abundantly
found
in
the
primary
cell
walls
of
units.
The
fruits
of Dillenia indica Linn. were ripened from
*,
terrestrial plants, the middle lamella of fruit, and vegetable
Phisanulok province in December 2011.
form

( 3)of
pulp

indica

tissues.
Pectins
skeletal
tissues
of plants
and combine
2. Preparation
the gelatinous
from Dillenia

vanishing
cream,
hydrophilic
emulsion

cold
cream

Franz-type
diffusion
cells

with proteins and other polysaccharides. Due to the

Linn.

itscomplex
vanishing
hydrophilic
pulp
was

molecular
size and
structure,cream
pectin
possesses
a emulsion
Thegelatinous
separated
from D.
indica fruits
5 vanishing cream

hydrophilic
emulsion

cold
cream

light
key property of gelling. The properties of pectin gel are
and removed the numerous seeds, resulting in clear

o/w
mainly depended on degree of esterification (DE) or degree
orange gelatinous pulps. The clear gelatinous pulps were

Higuchi

w/o

by
for

of methylesterification (DM) as well as the various factors
then
pasteurized
heating at 65C
30 min
and

pectin
flux

calcium,
and
vanishing
cream
cold
including
temperature,
type, pH,
sugar,
transferred
to
0C immediately.
5
cream

pulp
from
other solutes. High methoxyl pectin with DM 50% can
3. Composition characteristics
of gelatinous
form
gels
in the
presence
while low methoxyl
Dillenia indica Linn.

:
of sugar,

pectin with DM < 50% can form gels in the presence of
3.1 Determination of pectin content
divalent cations. The applications of pectin are widely used
Pectin in gelatinous pulp from D. indica fruits was
in food and beverage industries such as jams, jellies, fruitAbstract
extracted by the method modified from Dedduang (2010)8.
juices and milk as its properties of gelling agent, stabilizer,
brief, the gelatinous pulp was cleaned by boiling in
In Vitro Release Study of Niacinamide and Caffeine
from Different InCreams
6
thickener, emulsifier,
and
source
of
dietary
fiber.
Moreover,
ethanol at 75C for 10 min, filtered, and kept precipitation
Jariyaporn Pumsakul1*, Sunee Channarong1
pectin possesses high pH buffering capacity, which could
part. The precipitate was then extracted by diluted HCl,
help quickly
stabilize
resulting inandmaintain
the release heated
The and
present
studyskin
waspH,
to formulate
study the
of niacinamide
caffeineThereafter,
from threethedifferent
at 100C(vitamin
for 1 hr,Band
filtered.
filtrate
3) and
7
function
of permeability
antimicrobial
defense.
cream bases,
vanishing barrier
cream, and
hydrophilic
emulsion
and cold cream.wasThemixed
releases
active components
wereand
evaluated
with ofethanol
at 40:45 ratios,
stirred using
until
The
pectin diffusion
gels alsocells
provide
moisturemembrane.
absorptionBoth
of skin,
Franz-type
with artificial
vanishing cream
emulsion
are the same
o/w intype
pectinand
washydrophilic
precipitated.
The precipitate
was indried
hotwith
air
7
form
excellent
films, and being
difference
in emulsifying
agentskin
andfriendly.
oil components. The vanishing cream
is more
liquid
than Yield
hydrophilic
emulsion
where aspulp
the
oven until
weight
stable.
of pectin
from gelatinous
Thisis study
intended
applyinflexible.
gelatinous
pulpreleases
of of niacinamide
cold cream
w/o type
with thetomost
In vitro
and caffeine from three cream bases showed the
was calculated.
D.indica
fruit as Both
gel base
for facialandmask
formulation.
Thehighest release
similar kinetics.
niacinamide
caffeine
showed the
amounts andof the
fastest
rates in vanishing
3.2 Determination
degree
of esterification
(DE) cream. The
2+
influence
factorsamounts
of sucrose
and Carates
were
lowest release
and release
werestudied
found there
in cold cream. The
of the
suggest could
that thebecomponents
Theresults
degree
of study
esterification
measured and
by
effect
gelatinous
pulp affect
gellingtheproperties
including
types ofoncream
bases strongly
release of the
actives from thequantify
formulations.
the methoxyl content. The determination was
viscosity, pH, and other appearances. An appropriate gel
performed by saponification of the pectin and titration of the
Keywords:
Niacinamide,
caffeine,
release profile,
cream, and
whitening liberated carboxyl group.8 Firstly, gelatinous pulp was
base
was chosen
and used
for formulation
the product
then evaluated by viscosity, pH, antioxidant activity. All
reacted with NaCl and titrated with 0.1 N NaOH for
formulations
were
compared
with
gelatinous
pulp
gel
base
1
an equivalent weight. Then, the equivalent weight
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Huachiew Chalermprakiet University, Samut Prakancalculating
10540, Thailand
and commercial pectin gel.
of the sample, containing 0.5 g, was mixed with 0.25 N
NaOH, and allows standing for 15 min at room temperature
Introduction
(26.7 2C). Finally, the solution was neutralized by 0.25 N
Materials
and Methods
Hyperpigmentation is a type of skin darkened by the
and and
post titrated
inflammation.
is commonly
HCl,
with 0.1 Hyperpigmentation
N NaOH. The methoxyl
content
1. Materials
overPectin
release
of
melanin
by
skin
cells.
It
may
cause
from
over
harmless
but
makes
the
skin
unattractive.
In
case
of post
or %DE was calculated by the following solution.
was brought from Danisco (Bangkok, Thailand).
exposure
to
the
sun
light,
hormone
imbalance,
skin
disorders
inflammation
including
acne,
eczema
and
contact
dermatitis,
Ascorbic acid was purchased from Riedel-de Haen (Seelze,
Germany). DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazly) was from 193
Fluka chemica (Buch, Switzerland). Sodium chloride, sodium
When NaOH volume 1 is volume of 0.1 N NaOH for
hydroxide, and calcium chloride were brought from Ajax
calculating an equivalent weight and NaOH volume 2 is
(NSW, Australia). All reagents used in this study include
volume of 0.1 N NaOH for the methoxyl content calculated.
199

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7.Skin irritation testing in Human Volunteer

4. Effect of sucrose and Ca2+ on gel properties
2+
Thirty healthy volunteers (20-45 years) were participated
were
The
influence
factors
of
sucrose
and
Ca

1 adding various1 concentrations of sucrose and
in
this
study. The participants were briefed on the study
investigated
by
*,
procedures, and each was given written informed consent.
CaCl2. Each weight of them was 0.5, 1, 2, and 4 times from

mask
3)

once

Each(facial
and control
about0.5
g was applied
a weight
of gelatinous
pulp.
Themixture
of sucrose and
2
on
lateral
arms.
After
20
min,
on
a
surface
area
of
1
inch
vanishing
cream,
hydrophilic
emulsion

cold
cream

Franz-type
diffusion
cells

with
different
ratio
between
0
to
8
g,
were
also
CaCl
2
the samples
washed
andevaluated
by Draize
Physical
properties
vanishingofcream
were

investigated.
eachgelhydrophilic
were emulsion
technique.
vanishing cream
hydrophilic emulsion cold cream
evaluated.
8. Statistical analysis o/w
of facial

gelatinous

5.Formulation
mask
using
pulp from
values are
arithmetic mean

the

SD.
Statistical

Dillenia
indica
Linn. Higuchi w/o All
significance
was
assessed
using
the
unpaired
Students
t
gelbase
flux
above
study
was
vanishing cream cold
An appropriate
selectedfrom
test
or
by
the
one-way
ANOVA
with
a
level
of
significance
used
formulate facial
mask. Licorice
extract,
honey, and
creamto

set at p < 0.05.

concentration parabens were mixed into the gel base and

heated at 60C with gentle agitate until homogenize gel was

Results and Discussion
obtained. The properties of the formulation including
1. Physicochemical characteristics of gelatinous pulp
viscosity, pH, and antioxidant activity were evaluated.
from Dillenia indica Linn.
Abstract
Equivalent content of commercial pectin was used to
Determination of pectin content and degree of
compare.
Gel base
without
ingredientsand
wasCaffeine
also used
In Vitro Release
Study
of Niacinamide
fromasDifferent1.1
Creams
1
1
esterification
(DE) in gelatinous pulp
control.
Jariyaporn Pumsakul *, Sunee Channarong
Quantity
of
pectin consisting in D.indica pulp was found
All products were testing the stability by heating-cooling
The
present
study
was
to
formulate
and
study
the
release
of
niacinamide
(vitamin
B3) and
three
different
in
1.08%
of
fresh
gelatinous
pulpcaffeine
weight.fromThe
content
of
cycle method. The stability was performed by using
cream
bases,
vanishing
cream,
hydrophilic
emulsion
and
cold
cream.
The
releases
of
active
components
were
evaluated
using
methoxyl
group
represented
by
%DE,
was
around
57.9%
that
temperature between 4 and 45C, running 12 hr/round for 7
was classified
as highemulsion
methoxylare
pectin.
Franz-type diffusion cells with artificial membrane. Both vanishing cream
and hydrophilic
the same in o/w type with
rounds.
The
pectin
content
in
the
gelatinous
pulp was
quiteaslow,
difference
in
emulsifying
agent
and
oil
components.
The
vanishing
cream
is
more
liquid
than
hydrophilic
emulsion
where
the
6. Analysis of gelatinous pulp and formulations
5
that
might
be
depended
on
type
and
part
of
plant
materials.
cold
cream
is
w/o
type
with
the
most
inflexible.
In
vitro
releases
of
niacinamide
and
caffeine
from
three
cream
bases
showed
the
6.1 Physicals analysis of gelatinous pulp and formulation
Pectin amounts
content and
fromtheKrueo
Noyin leaves
(Cissampelos
similar
kinetics.
Both niacinamide
and caffeine
showed pulps
the highest release
fastestMarates
vanishing
cream. The
Base
gelatinous
pulps and formulated
gelatinous
10
,
pareia
L.)
was
reported
around
7%
on
fresh
mattersand
lowest
release
amounts
and
release
rates
were
found
in
cold
cream.
The
results
of
the
study
suggest
that
the
components
were evaluated the pH values and viscosity at ambient
various
kinds
of
guava
(Psidium
guajava
L.)
was
shown
types of cream
release
of the actives
temperature
(27bases
2C).strongly
Baseaffect
gelstheand
formulated
gels from the formulations.8
around 8-19% , and apple pomace contains 10-15% of dry
made from pectin which equivalent the pectin content in the
6
Moreover, types and conditions (e.g. temperature,
matters.
Keywords:pulp
Niacinamide,
release profile, cream, whitening
gelatinous
were usedcaffeine,
to compared.
time, and pH) of extraction method were also affected to the
6.2 Antioxidant Activity
quantity of pectin.10 The number of DE could be affected by
1 The antioxidative potential of gelatinous pulp, the
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Huachiew Chalermprakiet University, Samut Prakan
the10540,
sameThailand
influent factors of pectin content.
formulated gelatinous pulp was assayed by DPPH method
1.2
Viscosity
and pH value
described elsewhere.9 Vitamins C was used as positive
Viscosity of gelatinous pulp was plotted versus spindle
Introduction
control.
Each sample was done at 5 concentrations,
flow
shown in FigureHyperpigmentation
1. Increasing the isproportion
of
adjusted Hyperpigmentation
with methanol and
addedof skin
finallydarkened
with DPPH
is a type
by the
and rate
postas inflammation.
commonly
speed
reduced
viscosity
of
the
gelatinous
pulp.
As
this
over release
by reacted
skin cells.
It may were
causemeasured
from over
harmless but makes the skin unattractive. In case of post
solution.
Afterof30melanin
min, the
mixtures
result,
gelatinous
pulpacne,
revealed
or
to the sun light, hormone
imbalance,
skin disorders
inflammation
including
eczematheandnon-Newtonian
contact dermatitis,
byexposure
UV-spectrophotometer
at 517 nm.
The absorbance
was
plotted against concentration and % inhibition was calculated
pseudo plastic behavior, which is the same as the behavior
by the following formula. The effective concentration showing 193 found in moderate concentration of pectin solutions.6 It was
50% inhibition (EC50) was reported.
in contrast in the commercial pectin solution. Maintained
viscosity around 3.14 0.13 cP of the commercial pectin
% inhibition = [(Abscontrol Abssample) / Abscontrol] x 100
200

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solution behaves as the Newtonian fluid. That might be the The pH of gelatinous pulp and commercial pectin were

pulp.
Long
chain

reason
of pectin
structure
ingelatinous
3.53 0.02 and 3.18 0.02, respectively. Those were in
1

1*, linkages

polymers
with
of pectin were formed network
the normal range of high methoxyl pectin, 2.0 3.5.8
structure
and this
cells
and other inside
gel properties
2. The
of sucrose
Ca2+ on
skeleton
could
bind

(effects
3)
and

2+
molecules
together,
resulting
in
higher
gel
strength
than
on
Figure
2
was
presented
the
effect
of
sucrose cells
and Ca
vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion cold cream Franz-type diffusion

another
one. Thus,
content
bothhydrophilic
pectins, emulsion
viscosity
pectin
pulp and
commercial.

at equivalent
vanishing
creamof
of
gels
from
gelatinous

they
different
viscous
results cream
confirmthe
act

behavior.
The
vanishing

hydrophilic emulsion
cold cream
than

The gelatinous
pulp gelswere
higher viscous

o/w
viscosity of pectin solution is related not only to molecular
commercial pectin gels. Increasing the proportional of Ca2+
6 w/o

ofHiguchi

especially

weight
andDE
but also
thefactors
gel strength.
with and without sucrose increased gel viscosity,
flux vanishing
cream
found
in the

of 8coldg
the significant
highest was
present
cream
sucrose (p < 0.05). The viscosity of each gel was also
increased as the sucrose concentration manner. Mixture of
:
high concentration of sucrose (8 g) and Ca2+ (4 or 8 g)
provided the highest condensed gels. That was confirmed
Abstractthe effects of sucrose and Ca2+ on pectin gel forming via
In Vitro Release Study of Niacinamide and Caffeine from Different cross-linking
Creams
to form three dimension crystalline networks.
Jariyaporn Pumsakul1*, Sunee Channarong1
Sucrose could stick together in smooth regions with ester
11
to form (vitamin
gel network.
There have
The present study was to formulate and study the release groups
of niacinamide
B3) and caffeine
from been
three reported
different
cream bases, vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion and cold cream.about
Thethe
releases
of active components
wereis evaluated
using
large concentrations
of sucrose
mainly effect
to
6,12,13 in o/w type with
Figure
1 Viscosity
gelatinous
pulp atmembrane.
various spindle
Franz-type
diffusionofcells
with artificial
Both flow
vanishing cream
hydrophilicofemulsion
the same
gellingandproperties
high DEarepectin.
While in the
2+ than hydrophilic emulsion where as the
difference
in emulsifying
is more
rate,
measured
at 27 2Cagent
(n = and
3). oil components. The vanishing cream
presence
of Caliquid
, crystalline network could be formed by
cold cream is w/o type with the most inflexible. In vitro releases of niacinamide
and caffeinebetween
from threefree
cream
bases showed
calcium cross-linking
carboxyl
groups the
of
similar kinetics. Both niacinamide and caffeine showed the highest release amounts and the fastest
rates in vanishing cream. The
11
galacturonic acid chains.
lowest release amounts and release rates were found in cold cream. The results of the study suggest that the components and
types of cream bases strongly affect the release of the actives from the formulations.

Keywords: Niacinamide, caffeine, release profile, cream, whitening

1

Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Huachiew Chalermprakiet University, Samut Prakan 10540, Thailand

Introduction

Hyperpigmentation is a type of skin darkened by the

and post inflammation. Hyperpigmentation is commonly
over release of melanin by skin cells. It may cause from over
harmless but makes the skin unattractive. In case of post
2+
exposure
to
the
sun
light,
hormone
imbalance,
skin
disorders
inflammation
acne, eczema
and incontact
pulpincluding
and (b) commercial
pectin,
which dermatitis,
consist of
Figure 2 The effect of sucrose and Ca on viscosity of gel from (a) gelatinous
the system without sucrose (gray column), with sucrose at 1 g 193
(dotted column), 2 g (stripe column), 4 g (line column), 8 g (steak
column); measured at 27 2C (n = 3).

201

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1*, 1

( 3)
vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion cold cream Franz-type diffusion cells
vanishing cream hydrophilic emulsion
vanishing cream hydrophilic emulsion cold cream
o/w
Higuchi
w/o
2+
on
viscosity
of gel
gelatinous
pulp
and (b) commercial
in which
of
Figure
3
The
effect
of
sucrose
and
Ca
flux
from
(a)vanishing
cream
pectin,

consist
cold
the system without sucrose (gray column), with sucrose at 1 g (dotted column), 2 g (stripe column), 4 g (line column), 8 g (steak
cream

column)
; measuredat
27 2C (n=3).
The
:
gelatinous


donating capabilities to act as antioxidant. There were
pH of
gels from
pulp and commercial
2+
reported the antioxidative activity of extracted D. indica fruits3
pectin, affected by sucrose and Ca , were shown in Figure 3.
Both type of gels revealed the same trend, which increasing of
and active compounds contained in this fruit were flavonoids,
Ca2+ decreased pH of gels to strong acid region. Ca2+ mightAbstract
steroids and triterpenoids such as lupeol, betulin aldehyde,
In Vitro Release
of Niacinamide
Caffeine
Creams acid, and cycloartenone.2 The potential of facial
substituted
proton Study
in pectin
structure and and
provided
protonfrom
intoDifferentbetulinic
1
1
Jariyaporn
Pumsakul
*, Sunee Channarong
gel,
resulting
in pH approach
to strong acid. There was slightly
mask products were influenced by the contained licorice
effected from sucrose, found in the presence of low Ca2+
extract and honey. Gelatinous pulp and its products
The present study was to formulate and study the release of niacinamide (vitamin B3) and caffeine from three different
provided good results for using as skin care, although the
content (2 and 4 g) and without. At high concentrate of Ca2+,
cream bases, vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion and cold cream. The releases of active components were evaluated using
activity was lower than vitamin C.
high sucrose molecules might compete to cross-link and
Franz-type diffusion cells with artificial membrane. Both vanishing cream and hydrophilic emulsion are the same in o/w type with
obstruct calcium atoms, reducing proton release.
difference in emulsifying agent and oil components. The vanishing cream
more liquidpotentials
than hydrophilic
emulsion
where
as the
Table 1isAntioxidant
of gel from
D.indica
gelatinous
3. Characteristics of facial mask from Dillenia indica Linn.
cold cream is w/o type with the most inflexible. In vitro releases of niacinamide and caffeine from three cream bases showed the
gelatinous
pulp Both niacinamide and caffeine showed the highest release
pulp and
commercial
pectin
similar kinetics.
amounts
and the
fastest rates in vanishing cream. The
Modified
gel
base
from
1
g
sucrose
was
chosen
for
facial
lowest release amounts and release rates were found in cold cream. The resultsMaterials
of the study suggest that
components and
IC50the(mg/ml)
mask
Facial
maskaffect
formulation
wasofperformed
types formulation.
of cream bases
strongly
the release
the actives from the formulations.
by selected gel base, licorice extract, honey, and
Gelatinous pulp
21.40 0.31
concentration
parabens. caffeine,
The product
brownKeywords: Niacinamide,
releasepossessed
profile, cream,
whitening
Modified gel base
52.55 1.62
green color, clear gel, and licorice extract smell. Product
Facial mask product
9.47 0.99
from
gelatinous pulp was shown higher viscous than
1
Faculty
of
Pharmaceutical
Sciences,
Huachiew
Chalermprakiet
University,
Samut
Prakan
10540,
Thailand
commercial pectin over 12 times (data not shown). The pH
Commercial pectin
0
of both products was 4.60 0.02 and 5.38 0.02 for sample
Modified gel base
0
and
control. That pH is in the same range of human skin pH
Introduction
Facial mask product
10.38 0.71
varied from
4.1-5.8.
Hyperpigmentation
is a type of skin darkened by the
and post inflammation. Hyperpigmentation-3 is commonly
Licoricebutextract
35.40 10 In case
0.43of post
over release of melanin by skin cells. It may cause from over
harmless
makes the skin unattractive.
-3
4.exposure
Antioxidant
activity
to the sun light, hormone imbalance, skin disorders
inflammation
contact
dermatitis,
Vitamin Cincluding acne, eczema
2.78and
10
0.29
The gelatinous pulp and modified gel base were able to
5. Stability and skin irritation testing
scavenge free radicals of DPPH, while commercial pectin 193
Figure 4 was shown the results of stability testing.
and its modified gel base were not (Table 1). This could be
Viscosity
of samples from gelatinous pulp presented
explained that the gelatinous pulp from D. indica fruits
significantly changed from initiation time (p<0.05), while a
consist the effective compounds which possess hydrogen
202

202


Natural Beauty and Health through Aesthetic Sciences (1st Decade of Aesthetic Sciences and Health And 50th Anniversary of KKU)

007-HCU

(1st
*, ofAesthetic

Natural Beauty and Health through AestheticSciences
Decade
Sciences and Health And 50th Anniversary of KKU)

little bit change was found in commercial pectin samples.affected

to gel strength and viscosity. Commercial pectin

That
might be
reason of
the storage
timeand
temperature
in
samples revealed slightly pH reduction and some
1
caused
1*,by
some

which
part of pectin breakdown occurs.
precipitates were found. Texture, color, and pH of
Changing
of structure
and molecular
sizewere
key factors,
gelatinous
were
also still
maintained.

(pulp
3)samples

vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion cold cream Franz-type diffusion cells

vanishing cream hydrophilic emulsion
vanishing cream hydrophilic emulsion cold cream
o/w
Higuchi w/o
flux vanishing cream cold
cream

:
Figure 4 Properties of gel base and facial mask made from gelatinous pulp and commercial pectin including (a) viscosity, (b) pH,
and (c) antioxidant activity at initiation time (blank column) and the end of storage time (gray column) (n = 3).

Abstract

6.In Skin
Vitroirritation
Release testing
Study of Niacinamide and Caffeine from Different Creams quantification of betulinic acid by HPLC.
1
Phytomedicine. 2010; 17: 43135.
There Pumsakul
was no skin
irritations
found1 in all volunteers. That
Jariyaporn
*, Sunee
Channarong
3. Abdille MH, Singh RP, Jayaprakasha GK and Jena BS.
confirmed the safety of pectin and all ingredients used in
The present study was to formulate and study the release of niacinamide (vitamin B3) and caffeine from three different
facial mask formulation.
Antioxidant
activitycomponents
of the extracts
from Dillenia
cream bases, vanishing cream, hydrophilic emulsion and cold cream. The releases
of active
were evaluated
using
Franz-type diffusion cells with artificial membrane. Both vanishing cream andindica
hydrophilic
are 2005;
the same
in o/w type with
fruits. emulsion
Food Chem.
90: 891-86.
Conclusion
difference in emulsifying agent and oil components. The vanishing cream
is more
than hydrophilic
emulsion where
as the
4. Kuotsu
K andliquid
Bandyopadhyay
AK. Development
of oxytocin
cold cream
is w/o type
the most
inflexible.
vitro releases
Gelatinous
pulpwithfrom
Dillenia
indica InLinn.
fruit of niacinamide and caffeine from three cream bases showed the
nasal gel using natural mucoadhesive agent obtained
similar kinetics.
Bothproperties
niacinamide
caffeine
provided
interesting
of and
viscosity,
pH,showed
texture,the
andhighest release amounts and the fastest rates in vanishing cream. The
from the
fruitsstudy
of Dellinia
indica
Science
Asia. 2007;
lowest release
amounts
and for
release
were of
found
in cold
of the
suggest
thatL.the
components
and
especially
antioxidant
activity
usingrates
as source
pectin
or cream. The results
types
of
cream
bases
strongly
affect
the
release
of
the
actives
from
the
formulations.
33:57-60.
gel base. Gel base from this material could be adjusted for
widely
applications
by
using
sugar
or
divalent
ion.
Moderate
Keywords: Niacinamide, caffeine, release profile, cream, whitening 5. Sriamornsak P. Chemistry of pectin and its pharmaceutical
viscous, mild pH as physiological skin pH, considerable
uses: A review. Silpakorn University International
antioxidative activities, and safety product of facial mask
Journal. 2003; 3(1-2): 206-228.
1
Facultygelatinous
of Pharmaceutical
Chalermprakiet
from
pulp Sciences,
would Huachiew
be alternative
way University,
to applySamut Prakan 10540, Thailand
6. Srivastava P and Malviya R. Sources of pectin, extraction
natural pectin for health and cosmeceutical applications.
and its applications in pharmaceutical industry An
Introduction
IJNPR. 2011;
2(1): 10-18. is commonly
References
Hyperpigmentation is a type of skin darkened by the
and postoverview.
inflammation.
Hyperpigmentation
over
release
of
melanin
by
skin
cells.
It
may
cause
from
over
harmless
but
makes
the
skin
unattractive.
case of
post
7. CP Kelco US. GENU pHresh DF PectinIn Helps
Protect
1. Shome U, Khanna RK and Sharma HP. Pharmacognostic
exposurestudies
to the sun
light,
hormone
imbalance,
skin
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including
acne,
eczema
and
contact
dermatitis,
of Dillenia indica Linn.II Fruit and seed.
the Skin Barrier. 4: 2008.
Plant Sci. 1980; 89: 91-104.
193 8. Dedduang O. Comparison of extracted pectin from three
2. Kumar D, Mallick S, Vedasiromoni JR and Pal BC. Antikinds of guava (Psidium guajava L.) to standard
leukemic activity of Dillenia indica L. fruit extract and
pectin. Srinakharinwirot University. 2010.
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Natural Beauty and Health through Aesthetic Sciences (1st Decade of Aesthetic Sciences and Health And 50th Anniversary of KKU)

007-HCU

(1st
Decade
*, ofAesthetic

Natural Beauty and Health through AestheticSciences
Sciences and Health And 50th Anniversary of KKU)

9. Casagrande R, Georgetti SR, Verri Jr WA, et al. In vitro

from

evaluation
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topical
1*, formulations
1and its functional stability by
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activity.
Int
328:183-190;

( 3)
10.
Promsakhacream,
Na hydrophilic
Sakon Nakhon
P, Jangchud
A and
vanishing
emulsion
cold cream
Franz-type diffusion cells

vanishing
cream

hydrophilic
Jangchud K. Process development for pectin emulsion

from
Krueo

vanishing
cream hydrophilic emulsion cold cream
production
Ma Noy
leaves (Cissampelos
o/w
pareira L.). Kasetsart University. 2010.
Higuchi w/o
11.
Kastner
Einhorn-Stoll
U and
Senge
Structure
H,
flux
B.
vanishing cream cold
formation in
sugar containing
Influence
cream
pectin
gels

of Ca2+ on the gelation of low-methoxylated pectin

at:

acidic pH.
Food
Hydrocolloids
2012, 27(1):4249.
12. Liu L, Fishman ML, Kost J, Hicks KB. Pectin-basedAbstract
for colon-specific
druganddelivery
viafrom
oralDifferent Creams
In Vitrosystems
Release Study
of Niacinamide
Caffeine
1
1
Jariyapornroute.
Pumsakul
*, Sunee Channarong
Biomaterials.
2003; 24: 3333-43.
13. WillatsTheGT,
Knox
JP
and
JD.and
Pectin:
present study wasMikkelsen
to formulate
studynew
the release of niacinamide (vitamin B3) and caffeine from three different
insightsvanishing
into an cream,
old polymer
are emulsion
starting toandgel.cold cream. The releases of active components were evaluated using
cream bases,
hydrophilic
Trends
Food cells
Sci Technol.
2006;membrane.
17: 97104.Both vanishing cream and hydrophilic emulsion are the same in o/w type with
Franz-type
diffusion
with artificial
difference in emulsifying agent and oil components. The vanishing cream is more liquid than hydrophilic emulsion where as the
cold cream is w/o type with the most inflexible. In vitro releases of niacinamide and caffeine from three cream bases showed the
similar kinetics. Both niacinamide and caffeine showed the highest release amounts and the fastest rates in vanishing cream. The
lowest release amounts and release rates were found in cold cream. The results of the study suggest that the components and
types of cream bases strongly affect the release of the actives from the formulations.

Keywords: Niacinamide, caffeine, release profile, cream, whitening

1

Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Huachiew Chalermprakiet University, Samut Prakan 10540, Thailand

Introduction

Hyperpigmentation is a type of skin darkened by the

over release of melanin by skin cells. It may cause from over
exposure to the sun light, hormone imbalance, skin disorders

and post inflammation. Hyperpigmentation is commonly

harmless but makes the skin unattractive. In case of post
inflammation including acne, eczema and contact dermatitis,
193

204

204