TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

FIBRE FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS

Micronaire Value (Cotton) : The unit is micrograms per inch.
length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram).

The average weight of one inch

Denier (Man-Made Fibres) : Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre.

Micron (Wool) : Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)
Conversions:

Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value

Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier

YARN COUNTS
It is broadly classified into;
1.

DIRECT SYSTEM

2.

INDIRECT SYSTEM

INDIRECT SYSTEM

English count (Ne)

French count(Nf)

Metric count(Nm)

Worsted count

Metric system:
Kg.

Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per

Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)

Nm = length meter / weight in grams

DIRECT SYSTEM
[Type text]

Tex count

Denier

CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS

Tex
Tex

Den

Nm

den/9

1000/Nm

5314.9/den

Nm x .5905

8.33 / gr/yd

9000/Nm

gr/yd x 637.7

Ne

590.54/tex

Den

tex x 9

Nm

1000/tex

9000/den

tex / 70.86

den / 637.7

Grains/yd

Grains/yd
gr.yd

x 70.86

14.1 / gr/yd
14.1/Nm

Where, Nm - metric count, Nec - cotton count

CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS

Ounce

Ounce

Grains

Grams

437.5 grains

28.350 grams

Kilograms

Pounds

[Type text]

1/1
5

0.03527

0.0648 grams

ounces

Grains
Grams

0.03527 grains

Kilograms

35.274 ounces

[Type text]

15.432 grains
15432 grains

0.001 kgs
1000 grams

2.2046
pounds

Pounds

16.0 ounces

7000 grains

453.59 grams

0.4536 kgs

CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES

Yard

Feet

Yard

3 feet

Inches

Centimeter

36 inches

91.44 cms

0.9144
meter

12 inches

30.48 cms

0.3048
meter

2.54 cms

0.254
meter

Feet

0.3333 yards

Inches

0.0278 yards

Centimeter

0.0109 yards

0.0328 feet

0.3937 inches

Meter

1.0936 yards

3.281 feet

39.37 inches

0.0833 feet

0.01meter
100 cms

CALCULATIONS
Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne
Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
Ne = Nm/1.693
DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605

[Type text]

Meter

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

BLOW ROOM
% trash in cotton - % trash in lap
(1)

Blow-room Cleaning Efficiency% (CE) = ------------------------------------------% trash in cotton

(2)

Lint in waste (%) = 100 - CE

CARDING
(1)

P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)

P - production in kgs / hr
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

(2)

Production In Kgs / Hr = (L x Ktex x 60 x

Effy) / ( 1000)

L - delivery speed in m/min

Ktex- sliver count in Ktex (kilotex)
effy - efficiency
1000- to convert to kilograms from grams
(3)

Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy) / (Ne)

L - delivery speed in m/min
effy - efficiency
Ne - English count

(4)

Prodn / 8 Hrs = (Hank x Nd) /( Ne x 2.2045)

Hank = no of hank (840 yards)delivered by the machine

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Nd = no of deliveries

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Ne = hank of the material

(5)

Total Draft in Card = (Feed Weight in g/m) / (Sliver Weight in g/m)

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Wt. per yard of lap fed

(6)

Actual draft

=
Wt. per yard of card sliver delivered

(7)

Mechanical draft =

Length of card sliver delivered

Length of lap fed
or

Draft constant of card machine

Draft change pinion

(8)

Actual draft is always greater than the mechanical draft in carding

because it is the

carding waste% that increases the actual draft.

DRAWFRAME
(1)
(2)

Break Draft = Surface Speed of 2nd Roller / Surface Speed of Back Roller
Main Draft = Surface Speed of 1st Roller / Surface Speed of 2nd

(Middle)

Roller
(3)

Total Draft = Surface speed of delivery roller / surface of feed roller

(4)

Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)

L - delivery speed in m/min
effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries

(5)

Prodn In Kgs / Hr =

(FRD x Fr. rpm x 3.14 x 60 x Effy x Nd) / (Ne x 840 x 36 x

2.2045)
FRD - front roller dia in inches
FRrpm - front roller rpm
effy - efficiency
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Ne - Sliver hank

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Nd - number of deliveries

SPEEDFRAME + RINGFRAME
(1)

Twist / Inch (TPI) = Spindle Speed / FRS

FRS - front roller surface speed in inches/min

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(2)

TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

FRS = Fr. rpm x 3.14 x FRD

FRS - Front roller surface speed
FRD - front roller diameter

(3)

T.P.I = T.M. x Sqrt (Count or Hank)

T.M. - Twist multiplier
sqrt - square root

(4)

Prodn in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (7.2 x SS x Effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000)

SS - spindle speed

(5)

Spindle Speed = M/Min x TPI x 39.37

(6)

Hank Delivered

= Spindle Speed / ( Tpi x 62.89)

Single yarn strength (gm)

(7)

RKM = ----------------------------------Tex number of yarn

3.1 LD2 (L = Lift in inch, D = ring dia in inch)

(8)

Ring bobbin content =

(9)

Doubling bobbin content = 3.7 LD2

Actual count x (1 + Present regain)

(10)

Corrected count

=
1 + Standard regain
Weight per yard of roving fed

(11)

Actual draft of ring frame = ----------------------------------------------------------Weight per yard of yarn delivered on bobbin
Surface speed of front roller

(12)

Mechanical draft of ring frame =

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Surface speed of back roller

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Draft constant
=
Draft change pinion
(13) Twist contraction % = It is basically the percent shortening in length of
yarn between the front roller and the bobbin. The length at the
front roll is taken as 100%. For example 5% twist contraction
means, the yarn length on the bobbin is 95% of the length at the

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

front roll.
Yarn count at front roll - yarn count at bobbin
(14)

TC%

------------------------------------------------------------ x

100

Yarn count at front roll

(15)

Example of twist contraction given yarn;

Count on bobbin = 10s
Twist contraction = 5%
10 x 1.00
Yarn count at front roll = -------------- = 10.53s
95%

(16)

Mechanical draft is always greater than actual draft in ring spinning?

It is necessary to draft the roving to a finer yarn count at front roll that what is to be
bobbin. Because due to twist contraction of yarn, the count of yarn on bobbin becomes
coarser than the count of yarn at front roller.
Twist per inch (TPI)

(17)

Twist multiplier or Twist factor

=
Count (Ne)

(18)

TPI

= Twist multiplier x Count (Ne)

or
Twist constant of ring frame

(19)

TPI

=
Twist change pinion

(20)

Turns per metre (TPM) = Twist factor Nm

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(21)
(22)

TPI

= TPM x 0.0254

Ring Traveller Speed

Ring Traveller Speed in m/Sec= (Spindle Speed x Ring Dia in mm x 3.14)/
(60 x 1000)
Actual ring traveler speed ?
Assume, spindle speed

9,000 rpm

Ring Diameter

57 mm

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

Front roll delivery

64 metre/min.

Package circumference

102 mm (avg)
Front roll delivery (m/min) x 1000

Traveller lag (rpm) = Spindle speed Package circumference (mm)

14x1000
= 900 -

8363 rpm

102

Traveller lag 900 - 8863 = 137 rpm

Uncorrected traveller speed (m/sec.) :

Spindle speed x Ring diameter (mm) x p
=
1000 x 60
9000 x 57 x 3.142
= -- =

26.8 m/sec.

1000 x 60

Corrected Traveller speed (m/sec.) :

Ring dia (mm) xp x Trav. Lag (rpm)
Traveller speed (m/sec) 60 x 1000
57x 3.142 x 137
= 26.8 - =

26.39 m/sec.

60 x 1000

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(23) Weights of ring travellers No. 1 and 1/0.

For No. 1 = 90 grains / 100 travellers
For No.1/0 = 80 grains/100 travellers

WINDING
1.

Slub catcher settings :

a.

Fixed Blade =

Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter

Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter

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b.

Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter

Diameter in inch

= 1/( 28 x count )

for Blended yarn

= 10 to 15% more settings
2.

Yarn clearer efficiency =

Number of

objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher

=

x 100
Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding
Total breaks during winding (at faults)

3.

Knot factor =
No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults
Strength of spliced joint x 100

4.

Retained splice strength =

Strength of parent yarn

5.

Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams

4500 x Y
6.

Expected efficiency E

=
S x N (12 + 98)

7.

Winders workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c = 2300 operations

per shift of 8 hours
where,
1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation
1 doffing = 2 operations

8.

Winders workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8

hours

where,
1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation
1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation

Y = Length/Bobbin (metres)
B = Breaks per bobbin
S = Winding speed (metres/min)
C = English count
(9)

Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)

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L - delivery speed in m/min

effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries
(10)

P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)

P - production in kgs / hr
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

WARPING
R x 100
1.

Machine Efficiency E =
R+S
R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec)
1000 x 60
=
Machine speed in mtr/min.
S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of
1,000 meters
B X N X T1

T2

T3

= R + --------------- + ----- + ---------- + T4

400

LxC

B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters

N = Number of ends
L = Set length in 1,000 meters
C = Beams per creel

Timing of activities in seconds are :

T1 = To mend a break
T2 = To change a beam
T3 = To change a creel
T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

2.

Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs.

3.

Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count)

4.

Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength

SIZING
Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends
1.

Warp weight =
(in kg.)

x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count

Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight

2.

Size pick-up

%age
3.

x 100
Un-sized warp weight

Weight of size =

Warp Weight x Size pick up %

Sized warp length - Unsized warp length

4.

Stretch %age =

x 100
Un-sized warp length
Total-ends x Warp length in yards

5.

Sized yarn

count

Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840

Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn

6.

%age Moisture=
content

x 100
Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading

7.

%age Stretch =
100

x
Feed counter reading
840,000 x D x C

8.

%age Droppings =

x 100

on loom

454 Y x N x P

D = Dropping in gms.
Y = Length woven (yds.)

C = English Count
N = Number of Ends

P = % size add on
9.

Invisible Loss% =
Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn
=

x 100
Amount of size issued

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn

(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn
No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count
10.

Max. Speed of machine

(metres/min)

Number of ends
Number of ends x 0.6

11.

Wt. of warp in gms/mtr =

English count

WEAVING
1.

Reed Count :
It is calculated in stock port system.
EPI
Reed width =
1 + Weft crimp %age
No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count

2.

Reed Width :
100 + Weft crimp %age
Reed width = Cloth width x

3.

100

Crimp %age :

Warp length - Cloth length

Warp Crimp %age
4.

Warp cover factor =

5.

Weft cover factor =

Weft Crimp %age =

Cloth length

EPI

100
Warp Count

Cloth length

PPI
Weft length - Cloth length
x
10
0

Weft count
Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.

6.

Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. -

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

28
7.

Maximum EPI for particular count :

a.

For plain fabrics = 14 x Count

b.

For drill fabrics

= Count x 28 x 4/6

c.

For satin fabric

= Count x 28 x 5/7
Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter

d.

Other design =
No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat
1

8.

Yarn diameter =
28 x Count

Weave Density
1.

Warp density

= Ends/cm x Tex x K
= < 250

2.

Filling density = Picks/cm x Tex x K

= < 350
(Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100

3.

Weave Density = 50 +
(Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100

4.

Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72

To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the same denseness of the
fabric :
1.

To change the EPI without altering the denseness :

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EPI in given cloth x Warp count in expected cloth

EPI in Exp.Cloth =
Warp count in given cloth
2.

To change the count without altering the denseness :

EPI in exp. cloth2
EPI in exp. cloth =

Count in given cloth

EPI in given cloth

Warp requirement to weave a cloth :
Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1.

Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =

Waste

2.

840 x Count

%age

Weft weight in gms/mtrs. =

R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI
=

x Crimp %age x Waste %age

840 x Count
Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144

3.

Cloth length in mtrs.with =

the given weft weight

PPI x R.S. in inches

For Silk and Polyester :

1.

Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =

Total ends x Count (Denier)

=
9000
2.

Weft weight in gms/mtrs. =

RS in inches x PPI x Count

(Denier)
=
9000

x Crimp% x Waste %age

x Crimp% x Waste %age

Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :

Count becomes 4%

Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser

FABRIC PRODUCTION

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

Motor pulley diameter

1.

Loom speed = Motor RPM x

Loom pulley diameter

Actual production
2.

Loom Efficiency %age = ----------------------------- x

100

Calculated production
Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight
3.

Moisture Regain %age = --------------------------------------------- x 100

Dryed yarn weight

Yarn weight - dried yarn weight

4.

Moisture Content %age = -------------------------------------------- x 100

Yarn weight
Total ends x Tape length in metre

5.

Warp weight in Kg. =

1693.6 x Warp count
RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI

6.

Weft weight in Kg. =

4301.14 x Weft count
EPI

7.

PPI

Cloth weight in GSM = ----------------- + ----------------- x 25.6

Warp count

Weft count

GSM (Grams per sq. metre)

8.

Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard =

34

Material measurement :
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics :

0.0655 (D - d) (D + d)
L =
t
Where,
L = Length of material (feet)
t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches)
d = Inside diameter (inches)

Weight of yarn in a cloth :

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TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and
weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.
Where as Weight of warp in lbs =
840 x Warp yarn count

Also Weight of weft in lbs. =

Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch)
=
840 x Weft yarn count

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