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Hello Folks, this is my first post on this forum, however I've been reading it for
some time and I am amazed of the knowledge and amount of information being
displayed here.
vman96
I've just acquired a Pioneer SA-9100 of eBay and absolutely love it. It sounds
amazingly warm and rich, but unfortunately it has a minor problem I am trying to
isolate:
Member
The low filter switch makes loud popping sound in the speakers when move it up
or down, to the point that I have to turn speakers to off position to operate it.
Also if I shift the switch to subsonic position, the right speaker makes a low
frequency faint popping/humming noise, sounds like an interference of some kind
or poor connection. It appears to be coming from the woofer only and noticeable
more when you stand in a front of the speaker. The noises are not being affected
by volume control and are there constantly. But when the switch is in the (30Hz)bottom or (off)-upper position, there isn't any noise in the speaker.
So far I have replaced Q1-Q2 transistors and R12-R13 resistors on power supply
circuit-B board which made those noises to be less pronounced but didn't
eliminate them completely.
Strangely, while replacing R13 resistor, I didn't have the proper one on hand and
temporarily replaced it with one of higher value (1.2k.ohm -2w metal film). At that
point the low filter switch became silent as well as the right speaker noise was
completely gone. Sonically the amplifier sounded the same if not better. However
when I put the proper resistor (390 ohm 1/2w metal film) back, all the noises
have returned. I wonder if it could be capacitors on that board?
I am not that good in diagnostics of electronic equipment but can handle soldering
and replacement of parts quite well.
Your advices and help are greatly appreciated!!!
vman96, May 10, 2014
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-sa-9100-low-filter-switch-noise.592703/
#1
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Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous
Subscriber
All those lovely sky blue sanyo solid aluminum (CSSA) caps that turn into
resistors.
Look at the parts lists in the manual, they are all over the unit.
0.1 uf to 1 uf are best replaced with panasonic ecq stacked film caps instead of
electrolytic caps.
The rest Nichicon UPW and UKL (for the cssa, csza and ceanl caps)
markthefixer, May 10, 2014
#2
vman96
Also when power off the amp, it pops pretty loud. I believe it relates to caps as
well.
Member
Mark, did you mean to replace caps only on power supply board-B? At list as a first
step.
Where can I find a replacement parts list? There are a few of them floating around
on this site, but I don't know which is the correct one? I believe there are twelve
caps on that board.
Thank you!
Last edited: May 11, 2014
vman96, May 11, 2014
#3
The problem caps are scattered throughout the unit. Your imbalance at the power
supply (because of the wrong value part) coincidentally upset internal conditions in
the right direction that compensated for the capacitor's leakage, but you would
have found other faults caused by the power supply imbalance.
markthefixer
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11/19/2015
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Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
post the list and links to the other parts lists. we'll check it/them out.
markthefixer, May 11, 2014
#4
Yes, I did realize that, and replace resistors with the right ones as soon as I could.
At the meantime I am putting together a list of caps and will start with the power
supply board. One step at the time.
It's a wonderful amplifier and it is worth time and effort.
vman96
Member
#5
I hope you know of this thread: "Pioneer Recap Lists" Sticky suggestion!
and this thread in it (go to post #9): Pioneer SA-9100 AMP Rebuild x2
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous
Subscriber
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Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
SWITCH B ASSY
AWS-039-0 C1 1 25 Electrolytic CSSA 010M 25 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1
AWS-039-0 C2 1 25 Electrolytic CSSA 010M 25 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1
AWS-039-0 C5 10 16 Electrolytic CEA 100P 16 647-UPW1V100MDD 10
AWS-039-0 C6 10 16 Electrolytic CEA 100P 16 647-UPW1V100MDD 10
AWS-039-0 Q1 2SC1313 512-KSC1845FTA
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Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
SWITCH C ASSY
AWS-040-0 C9 0.47 10 Electrolytic CSSA R47M 10 598-DSF050J474 0.47
AWS-040-0 C10 0.47 10 Electrolytic CSSA R47M 10 598-DSF050J474 0.47
AWS-040-0 C11 0.47 10 Electrolytic CSSA R47M 10 598-DSF050J474 0.47
AWS-040-0 C12 0.47 10 Electrolytic CSSA R47M 10 598-DSF050J474 0.47
POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT-B ASSY
Power Supply C1 2.2 25 Electrolytic ? 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2
Power Supply C4 47 25 Electrolytic ? 647-UPW1V470MED1TD 47
Power Supply C7 3.3 50 Electrolytic ? 647-UPW1H3R3MDD 3.3
Power Supply C9 22 6 Electrolytic ? 647-UPW1H220MDD 22
Power Supply C10 470 6 Electrolytic ? 647-UPW1E471MPD 470
Power Supply C71 15000 50 Electrolytic ACH-020-0 Need to order
Power Supply C72 15000 50 Electrolytic ACH-020-0 Need to order
#6
Mark, thank you very much for the updated list of parts! It will keep me busy for a
while...
A lot of valuable information here!
vman96
Member
I'll start with caps on power supply circuit-B board, and from there gradually move
forward if it will be necessary.
I'd like to preserve the original components as much as possible, as long as they
perform close to factory specs.
Last edited: May 13, 2014
vman96, May 13, 2014
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-sa-9100-low-filter-switch-noise.592703/
#7
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Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Caps have "little clocks" (chemical!! called entropy or the passage of time, they
ADD "anti-corrosives" to the electrolyte in them!!) ticking away in them, and there
is no reason to keep caps in the circuit until they degrade so badly that the circuit
is negatively affected.
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous
Subscriber
Power supply and protection refurb may not affect the sound (much) but it does
affect the overall longevity and perforance.
Doing the audio caps is where the biggest (and not easily quantified) AURAL gains
will be realized. Haven't found an instrument yet that characterizes "soundstage"
and "clarity" other than the ear / brain / training of the listener.
Original parts aren't what they're cracked up to be. Plus the factories have gotten
BETTER at making them in the intervening time. No less compensating for old
less than stellar design choices (hot stressed transistors, they just plain don't last
as long, cooked boards, ) that were apparently driven by bean counters.
Last edited: May 13, 2014
markthefixer, May 13, 2014
#8
vman96
#9
Member
Well, I have replaced all caps on power supply-B board. Some were badly
overheated and leaky, some looked OK. The unit sounds about the same, perhaps
a bit cleaner, but the pooping noise from the low filter and power switches still
there.
vman96
Member
Should I replace the rest of caps in the entire amp or look at the SC-1451
transistors?
The amplifier sounds very nice and both channels well balanced.
Mark, I am still trying to understand why increased value of the resistor R13 on
circuit board -B makes all the noises to disappear. Does it mean there are still
issues on that board, or elsewhere?
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New style caps of the same value physically much smaller than the vintage ones, I
suppose they will perform just as good ??
Last edited: May 17, 2014
vman96, May 17, 2014
#10
vman96 said:
.
Mark, I am still trying to understand why increased value of the resistor R13 on circuit board -B
makes all the noises to disappear. Does it mean there are still issues on that board, or
elsewhere? elsewhere, it is an unusual accident.
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous
Subscriber
New style caps of the same value physically much smaller than the vintage ones, I suppose
they will perform just as good ??
newer caps do turn out to be both better and smaller.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-sa-9100-low-filter-switch-noise.592703/
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Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
While replacing SB-507 and SD-313 which was particularly bad, R-12 and R-13
looked badly overheated. I'd removed them to ck resistance. R-13 measured 460
ohm.
Entire board looked overheated, caps near the Q1 heat sink looked discolored.
It was a terrible interference/high frequency noise, especially when tapping on Q1.
Replacement of those components had fixed this problem.
vman96
Member
#12
R12 and R13 are INTENDED to get hot, they handle heat far better than the pass
transistors Q5 and Q6, and absorb a fair portion of the energy dissipated.
q2 q4 are suspect, q6 and q8 are probably behaving.
post the emitter base and collector voltages of q2 and q4 to shed some light on the
failure. also post which parts were replaced, and with what.
markthefixer, May 18, 2014
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Q2-512-KSC2073TU
R12/R13-CPF1392R00FKEE6 Vishay metal film 392 ohm -1w-1%
All capacitors on AWR-032 board as you've posted above.
Last edited: May 19, 2014
vman96
Member
#14
#15
vman96
Member
#16
I've mentioned earlier about that faint (like a bad connection) noise in the right
speaker, which is intermittent. Now the left one has developed it as well
It happens only when the low filter switch in "subsonic" position. In "Off" and
"30Hz" positions amplifier is nice and quiet.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-sa-9100-low-filter-switch-noise.592703/
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vman96
Member
Pioneer SA-9100 low filter switch noise | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
I've been wondering if it's a separate issue and attributes to a different source, like
AWK-021
At the mean time I've ordered transistors for AWK-032 board, hopefully it'll bring
voltages to the proper specs.
Last edited: May 19, 2014
vman96, May 19, 2014
#17
try recleaning the switch, usually signals sneak across wires when impedances
rise due to contact resistance.
#18
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous
Subscriber
Hello Mark,
Well, Q4,Q6,Q8 finally got replaced. That brought voltages to a normal range,
however slightly elevated.
What is your opinion on it:
vman96
Member
AWR-032
pin 2 (-16vdc) -17.20
pin 3 (-24vdc) -26.34
pin 4 (-13vdc) -13.17
pin 5 (-42vdc) -44.60
pin 8 (+42vdc) +44.40
pin 9 (+35vdc) +36.80
pin 10 (+24vdc) +25.69
pin 11 (+16vdc) +16.63
Success! No more rumbling in the right speaker, No more popping sound in low
filter switch or other controls. There were a few very light "ticks" in the function
switch and tape selector switch, but after about 20 minutes of operation everything
became silent
Should I replace Q3,Q5,Q7, respectively, since I've got them as well?
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Final touch
...
#19
#20
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