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List of Tools:
table saw (for ripping cap to 2 1/4, you could use a 13 if you dont have a table saw)
miter saw (for cutting the lumber to length and the angles)
drill
utility knife (for shaving edges of pine boards)
framing square
tape measure
pencil
sander block
sand paper
4 foam brush
old rag
Important Notes:
This gate was designed for a 35 1/4 opening. The width of the opening where the gate is
needed will determine the width of the gate. Generally you want your gate to be 1/2 to 3/4 less
wide than the door opening. This will allow it to swing freely and give room for hinges.
I used pine boards with lots of character for a good rustic look. But you can use any material you
like
After all the pieces were cut the length, I used a utility knife to shave off the factory edge on all
corners. By doing this it will give the wood a more hand carved look. After shaving off the edge use
a sanding block to soften the edges from any slivers.
All pine wood used is 3/4 thick.
All dimensions are finished dimensions .
All screws in this gate were drilled in through the back stiles. This made it look better on the side
used.
The angles listed on the cut list are for quick reference only and are approximate. You will need
to make proper measurements to ensure the proper angles especially if your gate is not the exact
same size.
List of Materials:
Gate latch (the gate latch that I used requires a hole drilled in the door frame.)
Handel (pull)
Cut List:
Step-By-Step Instructions
2. Cut the front top rail to the same length on the miter saw.
3. Cut a back stile to length on the miter saw. Use a framing square to square up the corners. Drill in
one screw on each corner to attach the back stile to the front rails. Before assembling any of the
pieces, shave off the factory edge for a more rustic look.
4. Cut a second back stile to length on the miter saw. Use a framing square to square up the corners.
Screw in one screw on each corner to attach the back stile to the front rails. Be sure that the back
stiles are aligned with the front rails at 35 apart from outside edge to outside edge. After all four screws
are in place, check the frame that is is square. Do this by using your tape measure and measuring from
one corner to another on a diagonal (see image below). If the two measurements are the same, drill in an
additional screw by the first one, to lock the frame into square position. If they are not the same make
small adjustments by pushing or pulling the the opposite corners together or apart.
5. Cut front stiles to length. Now that you know your exact spacing for the stiles between the front rails
you can cut them to the right length. Now screw the stiles in place through the back stiles.
6. Cut the full cross brace to length. The opening for the cross brace has now been determined and
can now be measured. Place the board under the frame at an angle. Overlap the ends lightly to provide
part of the board to be cut off. Take a pencil and mark where the frame crosses over the cross brace.
Be sure the make the piece on the wood that will be discarded. The angles are listed below but it might
be slightly different. That is why you should just trace the angle from the frame. Cut the length and
shave of the edges. Sand and get ready for assembly.
7. Cut the short cross braces. Follow the same instructions as above, but this time mark along the full
cross brace where the short cross braces will stop. Cut to length, shave off the corners and sand.
8. Cut (8 more) back stiles. Screw the stiles in place one at a time. As you screw in the back stiles
make sure that you are on top of the front boards: the front stiles, rails and cross braces. This is so the
screws hold the pieces in front.
9. Cut the cap. Screw or nail on the cap. I used brad nails and clue so they wouldnt show.
10.Now that everything is assembled and sanded, all you need to to is stain it. After you stain it you can
brush a layer of clear varnish to protect the stain finish.