Professional Documents
Culture Documents
IN
ROUMANIA
TWENTY YEARS
IN ROUMANIA
BY
MAUDE PARKINSON
40
6f
MUSEUM
UNWIN, LTD.
STREET, W.C.
PREFACE
NOW
these
down
in black
and white
recollections
of
freedom which
have allowed
Then
humour, and the doubt
myself
vanishes.
When,
after
my
830228
TWENTY YEARS
which I
with so
much
IN
ROUMANIA
pleasure.
1921.
CONTENTS
PAGES
CHAPTER
17-23
"
flood
and
CHAPTER
Hazy
street
A warm reception.
24-33
II
ideas about
Roumania
"
Bucarest, Turkey
"
CHAPTER
34-42
III
"
Lively
Military
after an
General Post
picnics at election times
election Party handwriting Natural selection cir-
and enjoys a happy day Threatening demonwhich end happily A gallant army If
'*
one of
stiff on parade, the Roumanian soldier is
ing
strations
the best."
CHAPTER IV
The
43-52
priest's
monthly rounds
Prayers
7
for
girl's
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
PAGES
CHAPTER V
53-58
Roumania's capital
trams " A town
of
CHAPTER VI
59-66
life
of the peasants
terranean dwellings.
CHAPTER
VII
67-71
Village scenes
costumes
An
simplicity.
CHAPTER
72-81
VIII
Roumania
An
influx
of
Americans
Rockefeller's
TWENTY YEARS
agent,
Mr
ROUMANIA
IN
How
man
"
and became a millionaire
struck oil
coal-mines.
and
Paper-mills
of gipsy origin
"
CHAPTER IX
82-88
is
a double one.
CHAPTER X
89-96
Long hours of
Take Jonescu,
study and no
as Minister of
show questions
German
Roumanian language
and
proselytising
girl
ures of the world and ran
CHAPTER XI
97-102
of
Education
true
"
La
Roumanian
His town and
CHAPTER
XII
103-111
The
Rafting on
TWENTY YEARS
10
ROUMANIA
PAGES
CHAPTER
The
IN
XIII
112-115
a picturesque ceremony
blessing of the waters
Diving for the cross Baptising the Jew The child
rain-makers
a charming custom How I watered
:
The peasants
CHAPTER XIV
Festivals
cruel
116-120
christening
The
Marriage-making
fiance^
bore
CHAPTER XV
121-128
CHAPTER XVI
129-133
bath-tub Matutinal
nurses
introduce
the
ablutions in a country house Abstinence from
ablutions a proof of holiness The funeral of a Metro-
English
Afternoon
CHAPTER XVII
The
134-143
Terms and
duties of service
An
cake
When
a bald-headed cook
is
wanted
An omnibus
round.
TWENTY YEARS
CHAPTER
IN
ROUMANIA
XVIII
11
144-150
A Roumanian Jack
life in the salt mines
Sheppard The trick that laid him low Procedure
in murder cases The reconstruction of the crime
no Habeas Corpus Act
Scant justice for servants
in Roumania A man whose face was the only
evidence against him Gipsies and the building trade
the men act as masons and bricklayers, the women as
Exhibition of new clothes when a
their labourers
roof is put on Fiddling ragamuffins Gipsies as
Convict
musicians
Guarding
against
gipsies
in
the
Carpathians.
CHAPTER XIX
151-158
genial
Sir
How
Sir Chas.
me
CHAPTER XX
The French colony
159-166
An
outspoken abbe
The German
CHAPTER XXI
The coming of King Carol Roumanians dislike the
Germans and hate the Hungarians King Carol a
167-171
TWENTY YEARS
12
IN
ROUMANIA
PAGES
CHAPTER XXII
abdicate
....
172-180
An early dilemma : no
divorcees, no court
quaint divorce story The
true story of the meeting of Carol and Elizabeth
Did she love the country or its King ? Her dead
tomb
for
music
unlucky palace.
CHAPTER XXIII
Ferdinand
He
is
The
181-184
cess Marie
The
a lonely
home-coming
stranger A gala performance The Prince's mission
to Germany Roumanian officers meet half a dozen
Herr " Mahlzeits."
Princess's
CHAPTER XXIV
185-190
The Princess
"
fine
fellow,
own importance
learns
Prince
He and
politeness
the Minister's garden
valet
An
Nicolas's
adventure at Piraeus
first
communion and
sailor
his struggle
little
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
13
PAGES
CHAPTER XXV
191-197
"
Winter in Roumania Fetes on the ice An
escaped
"
causes a sensation, till he loses his head
bear
Prince Carol establishes the bob-sleigh as a society
craze An unlucky accident to Princess Elizabeth
An end to bob -sleighing Sleighs and winter costumes
Christmas New Year's Eve.
CHAPTER XXVI
Sinaia and
198-205
summer Court
in the Carpathians
Gay
Court ladies in national costume Sinaia at various
seasons The monastery and the Queen's room there
she decorates it with caricatures of society ladies
A fete at the monastery King Edward at Sinaia
Lord Roberts a guest there The Crown Prince's
"
"
"
residence Princess Marie's
cuib
or
Crusoe "
the
trees
Her
the
Grand
Duchess
of
sister,
amongst
Hesse Little Princess Ella A merry party in the
its
life
woods
A tragedy recalled.
CHAPTER XXVII
206-212
and
little
smuggling
beautiful
historic road.
CHAPTER XXVIII
A
213-221
We
leave Sinaia in
Omul
Midnight
14
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
PAGES
CHAPTER XXIX
Cholera in Russia
222-227
hurry back to Roumania
am
put
My
her hair
is
snow white.
CHAPTER XXX
The beggars
inspired
228-238
of Bucarest
Was
their holidays
No
it
lack
Footless,
CHAPTER XXXI
239-245
Plevna
CHAPTER XXXII
Turkish influence on Roumanian mind and manners The
Clearly descended from the
origin of the people
Romans of Trajan's day Collateral evidence of Latin
Pride of race Transylvania
origin in the language
and the Hungarian tyrants A Roumanian National
party.
246-250
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
15
PAGES
CHAPTER XXXIII
251-255
of
Roumania
Entente
Room
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANJA
CHAPTER
A
:;:
real enterprise
in sheep -skins
~\\ 7HEN
mad
away
to a country of
all
"
was one
my project.
already
"
finished
an
"
accomplished
traveller.
had
ever
heard
charged
against
17
the
people
my
of
2
18
TWENTY YEARS
country.
Roumania,
IN
my
ROUMANIA
It
was very
little
to learn more.
My
intention
was to
an independent way
that I was pretty well equipped for the work, and
I had been told that there was ample scope for my
endeavour, and that I would find the remuneration
far more liberal than nearer home.
This was all very encouraging, but with the canniness becoming an Ulsterwoman I determined to
in
felt
and
school in Bucarest.
It was necessary for me to proceed to Dresden in
order to conclude the agreement, and I was astonished to find that I could obtain no information
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
19
how
there as to
at the hotel I
since then.
Let
me
20
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
claim to possess.
Furnished with
Hungary
is
The train which was an express from Viennaslackened its pace so much after leaving Budapest
that I mortally offended the guard by asking him
He replied
in all good faith if it were a slow train.
"
in a very dignified
we have
manner,
travelled
Why,
so
of course
it is
an
kilometres
many
express;
I was not convinced of
since leaving Budapest."
the speed of the train, as it is a well-known fact that
Hungarian
have
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
21
Nevertheless, I was
I opened my mouth
and
indignantly informed
my eyes,
him in English, French, and German that he was in a
ladies' carriage, and had better get out of it as quickly
Which language it was that
as ever he could.
tell
it may have been the
him
I
cannot
frightened
us.
almost as soon as
Hungary.
TWENTY YEARS
22
IN
ROUMANIA
"
What
any system of drainage, for extensive floods frequently rendered the roadway impassable for foot
passengers.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
23
My
first
an ample reward
me
to cure
nationalities.
refer to
some of
my
experiences
in
for so
many
years of
my
life
CHAPTER
II
Hazy
ideas about
the preceding chapter I have given some indiof how little was known of Roumania
IN cation
all
these failing,
it
had
when
24
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
25
brave
in
and
all
The area
of
Roumania
before the
its
TWENTY YEARS
26
indeed,
and the
of which more hereafter. The
mighty Danube,
IN ROUMANIA
the
Bistritza,
varieties of fish,
many
much more
It has
delicious.
is
a peculiar,
entirely lacking
in
soft,
the
Russian.
On
Lignite
(a
mineral
salt,
coal
and
lignite are
retaining
the
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
27
Roumania
and
Mineral
attracted thereto
by the far-famed
cura-
It is unfortunate
tive properties of their waters.
that accommodation at these springs is still rather
wealth of Roumania
may be
exploited,
and thus
of importance.
After the capital (with a population of 200,000) one
need only mention Jassy, Craiova, Slatina, Galatz,
and Braila the last two named being ports on
English gunboat belonging to the European Commission was always stationed, and Constantza,
28
TWENTY YEARS
which of
IN
ROUMANIA
communication with
Constantinople.
Before the building of the bridge over the Danube
at Cernavoda which, by the way, is eleven miles
long, as a great tract of marshy land has also to be
traversed, travellers from Roumania bound for
There were formerly only two main lines of railway by which one could leave Roumania, travelling
One
cheaper,
is
in
my
opinion
much more
interesting.
overshadowed by the towering peak of the Caraiman, we reach Poiana Tzapului, at which station
we descend
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
29
excellent
Azuga
beer.
By
rule
kid gloves.
It
is
strange, but so
the way, I
wear black
it is.
When
with
for
searched
contraband,
anything
luggage
passengers were allowed by the sentry to pass
on to the Hungarian part of the platform, but on
no pretext whatever might one return to the
Roumanian section. As the sole restaurant in
by way
of Transylvania,
Budapest, where
till
it
finally
arrives at
travellers
THE DANUBE
The Danube, that mighty river so often spoken of
"
as
The Blue Danube," proves disappointing in
30
some
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
parts.
all, it is
am
fairly well
vice
acquainted with
it.
The " Iron Gates " are simply rocks in the bed
of the river, in some places just appearing above
the surface of the water and in others just visible
below. There is a continual swirling and eddying
of the water round these obstructions, and they
were formerly very dangerous to shipping.
The first time I travelled down from Vienna, the
passengers were obliged at Orsova to leave the large
steamer and change into quite a small one, which
then carefully threaded its way among the dangerous
rocks
of the
"
Iron Gates."
Everyone was
us.
TWENTY YEARS
The
IN
ROUMANIA
31
are, happily, no
as
a
longer existent,
great extent of rock was blown
terrors of the
ago.
countries,
As the Danube
the consent or
through many
of
each
to
this
approval
proceeding had to be obflows
tained.
occasion
TWENTY YEARS
32
IN
ROUMANIA
What
Danube it
As for the
;
is
by no means
so grand or impressive.
Danube.
From Budapest
to Giurgiu
is
most uninteresting stretch is that between Budapest and Vienna, where the river flows between
perfectly flat banks, nothing to be seen on either
side, no villages, no people, only masses of willows
stretching for miles, causing a most depressing
effect.
The
river
is
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
33
CHAPTER
III
"
"
after an election
General Post
times
Party handwriting
Natural selection circumscribed for postal officials The army
A soldier's life not always a happy one Military marketers,
On
nurses, and spring -cleaners The accession celebrations
Government of Roumania
is
a limited
"
colleges," as
they are
called.
The
first
income of over
50 to
TWENTY YEARS
The
150.
ROUMANIA
includes tradespeople,
third
IN
upwards annually.
35
who pay
The fourth
years.
The
instruction
are
some
is
of
constitution.
It
is
takes place.
fully
TWENTY YEARS
36
IN
ROUMANIA
That
elector
who
wise
Liberal,
who narrowly
appears, and
he
it
him one."
As has been said, it
now he
is
dead they
are giving
is
good time
that
is, if
fortiter in re.
as batiusi)
at the entrances to the polling booths, frankly for
the purpose of intimidating those who refuse to
vote as their party wishes. Under such circumstances it is not to be wondered at if feeling sometimes runs very high and the services of the
military have to be called upon. In such a case
the troops line up before the polling booths, and
every elector who arrives carrying a stick, no
matter
how
relieved of
it
This
is
TWENTY YEARS
little
IN
ROUMANIA
life, if it
37
does not
new Government
is
new
It
faces.
building, to
reminds
one
"General Post."
reform.
post
office.
TWENTY YEARS
38
IN
ROUMANIA
THE ARMY
At the time
consisted
army
of
and
raw
levies
unprovided
with
uniforms and in
sabres.
cases
"
appearance that they were referred to as a ragged
band of gipsies." Prince Carol (he was not crowned
king until after the battle of Plevna) found not
only that the army was wholly untrained, but that
in
up to
Universal compulsory
service was at once introduced.
German instructors
were brought into the country, and it is from this
time that the story of the organisation of the
Roumanian army begins. The result has shown
what can be done, if only the right material is to
his
forces
date.
hand.
The Roumanian
soldier
is
of efficiency.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
39
staff.
so
well
fitted.
Chief of the
King Ferdinand.
As in all Continental countries, there is universal
military service in Roumania. All males are required to present themselves for military service at
any period they may choose between the ages of
eighteen and twenty-one. Formerly the duration
of service
six
months.
Young
It
was
later
reduced to
own
horses.
40
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
off
It
is
ance.
wooden
soldiers.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
41
After the parade the day was given up to amusements, and in the evening the town was brilliantly
illuminated.
fine,
and did
The
illuminations
who
carried
them
It did not
at having a
42
TWENTY YEARS
cession
is
IN
ROUMANIA
they find
all
is
great
and
men
soldier,
led his
was won.
The Roumanian national anthem is a fine martial
air and was composed by Eduard Hubsch.
He,
a
was
naturalised
of
German
birth,
although
Roumanian long resident in the country, and died
some years ago at Sinaia.
CHAPTER IV
The
of Bucarest
He
is
brought out
Marie as a nun.
ROUMANIANS,
44
TWENTY YEARS
The head
IN
ROUMANIA
is always chosen
from amongst the monks. The monks are vowed
to a life of celibacy, and live enclosed in the numerous
The
that
she dies they are
;
respect.
The garb
is
rather peculiar.
Over
his
is
left out, as
she
is
heretic.
girl.
TWENTY YEARS
The patron
saint
ROUMANIA
IN
of Bucarest
is
45
St Demetre
lies in the
mummy, enclosed in a silver casket,
"
"
church named after him. On his
name-day
his
The
and
who
what is best.
The beautiful church
taste for
46
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
is
The truth
pended at
bells.
intervals,
agitating these
little bells,
the effect
is
very pretty.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
47
most beautiful
a fairy structure.
At a short distance from the church is a monastery
at which Carmen Sylva used to stay for weeks at a
time. She was very fond of the old legends of
Roumania, and especially of that connected with
Curtea d'Argesh.
The architect and builder of the church was one
Manole, and according to the legend he was extremely
anxious to get the building completed by a certain
date.
He spurred on his men to their utmost endeavours ; but alas no matter what progress they
made during the day, the work which they accom!
At length a
figure
appeared
TWENTY YEARS
48
IN
ROUMANIA
Now
as she
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
49
pavement when
it is
or her candle
are
seen
twinkling
and
returning
little
thither.
The churches
50
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
One may
as they are simply dens for lazy people.
monks
that
with
attached
to one
twenty
imagine
church the services required from each are not very
arduous, especially when the church is in a remote
district.
intervals
to officiate at stated
recite prayers.
That
command
a good view of
TWENTY YEARS
IN
which
51
One monastery
ROUMANIA
have visited
is
in parsituated at such a
down.
is
52
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
round
flat
is
perched on the
The system of Roumanian convents differs somewhat from that of the Roman Catholic convents.
Roumanian nuns are quite free to go about and visit
friends and relatives.
They are only vowed to
celibacy, and they live together in communities,
working for the poor and visiting the sick. No
branch of education
is,
however, undertaken by
them, as they themselves are not sufficiently instructed for that. Before the present Queen of
of her greatest
pleasures was to stay for a few weeks at the convent
near Campulung. There she donned the garb of a
when cooked
CHAPTER V
"
A
Roumania's capital A garden city Modesty on the trams
town of one street, one church, and one idea " The Calea
Victorie Two hundred churches The church of Doamna
Balash English customs gaining headway The houses of
Bucarest Afternoon calls and refreshments The fortifications.
is
BUCAREST
accounting
situated on a
marshy
plain,
a fact
effectually prevented
That
is all
introduced.
The town
is
well lighted,
in
some
streets
in-
54
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
it is
good
size.
was issued forbidding the feminine use of the overhead seats. These trams were then withdrawn, and
others of a more modest appearance and characteristics substituted.
An electric tram now runs on
the Boulevard. What a commotion there was when
it was first instituted
People were afraid to trust
themselves on it they feared electrocution most
probably; but by degrees that feeling of fear was
dissipated, and now the electric tram is as much
used as the other. And now, I have just learnt,
motor omnibuses have been adopted. I am glad
to have been spared that innovation.
Bucarest has been described as a town of one
The aphorism is
street, one church, and one idea.
to some extent justified, for the Calea Victorie is
practically Bucarest, the Greek Church knows no
dissenters, and the prevailing idea is the spending
!
of money.
Calea Victorie
It leads from
is a very long street.
the Dimbovitza to the Chaussee (the fashionable
TWENTY YEARS
afternoon
resort
of
the
as well as the
Royal
it is
IN
ROUMANIA
Bucarestois),
and
55
it
is
elite
is
TWENTY YEARS
56
IN
ROUMANIA
officiating priests.
is
of
in
the town,
is
foreigners,
and more
who
looked
are
Roumanians.
have been
adopted in recent years, and English, which had long
been making headway, has gained so enormously
since the war that it will probably soon take the
place of French as the polite language of the country.
Many
of
our customs
is
it
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
57
On
large tray.
it
for
58
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
CHAPTER
VI
of the peasants
break
used on his subjects A village population exterminated
Terror in the town I go to church and am relieved to see
Princess Marie there The tale of a sufferer The priests and
schoolmasters the instigators The peasants' subterranean
dwellings.
IN
buying wood and paying for pasturage, prevented the peasants from obtaining
complete independence of the large proprietors on
whose estates they still had to work for payment in
necessity
money
for
or in kind.
TWENTY YEARS
60
IN
ROUMANIA
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
61
authorities
had to be very
careful as to
where they
TWENTY YEARS
62
IN
ROUMANIA
few
ambulance
wagons, was
therefore
paraded
These measures
and no disturbances whatever took
proved
effectual,
place in Bucarest.
all
night.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
63
home
late
as
first,
strongly advised me to stay away. The lady herself had decided to go, with her family, to a relative
who
lived in
if
was
held,
any
was com-
64
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
trace of rioters.
show
themselves
fearing
to
moment
to be discovered.
All
dreading
every
around could be
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
65
At
drew off to
safe to
considered
was
afield,
attempt the journey to the station. What a walk
that must have been, and what a relief when finally
their goal was reached, and a train was found on
round the
fire.
further
scenes
last,
as the rioters
it
It is true that
the point of starting for Bucarest
the journey was made with a man standing with a
loaded revolver at each carriage door, but all fear
was dismissed from their minds when they found
themselves safe and sound in the capital.
!
The
was eventually
number
doubt whatever.
Several timid folk left the country with their
children and went to Kronstadt, just a few miles
who
66
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
CHAPTER
Village scenes
Peasant
VII
National dances
girls
country wedding
Peasant simplicity.
THEN
T~
T T
Roumanians, as
musical race.
They
Some
of
The principal
"
one is the Hora," and it is danced by any number
of people to the music of a violin. A number of
young men and girls take hands and form a large
They then begin a slow and stately step, the
ring.
music gradually increasing in speed, and their movements also, till they become fast and furious. Music
and dance then suddenly stop. Another dance is
"
the
Sarba," which is danced by two people, either
men or women. They stand side by side, each with
one hand resting lightly on the other's shoulder.
Then the dance begins, and when well done it really
affords a most interesting spectacle, so varied and
intricate are the steps employed.
There is far more
On Sunday
TWENTY YEARS
68
IN
ROUMANIA
dressed in their varied and picturesque costumes, the crimson, blue, and gold of which flash
here and there with the movements of the wearers,
girls,
as
is
rather curious.
in those
districts
It is
This, however, is not the case.
"
to
see
the
a
common
done
thing
peasant girls
quite
"
and
to
as great an extent
with
powder
paint
up
The complexion of the
as their town sisters.
Roumanians is rather dark, but as they prefer the
white and red of fairer races they do their best in
their charms.
imitation.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
69
is
TWENTY YEARS
70
IN
ROUMANIA
feasting
But
and dancing
hours.
till all
That of
(ox- waggons) all decorated with flowers.
the bride has a regular canopy over it, under which
she sits embowered in flowers of all colours.
She is accompanied to the church by her mother or
first
the end of the service and kiss it. One may see by
that that suffragettes have not yet propagated their
theories in
The
Roumania.
in kind, loaves
and cakes of
all sorts
fruit,
All this
deed,
when there
many
are so
eggs, butter,
is
often kept
TWENTY YEARS
IN ROUMANIA
71
CHAPTER
VIII
No
REMARK
TWENTY YEARS
ment
is
given to
many
IN
ROUMANIA
workers in various
73
fields of
industry.
am
74
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
only be circulated among those people who understand the language thoroughly. Even for them the
upon
How
between
difference
metre
and
yard
Then
Roumania
war there
been the exchange difficulty, but that will not always remain.
Let me give one example of English conservatism. A certain English firm was approached as to
the sending out of some agricultural machines.
Now the peasantry of the Near East are very fond
has, of course,
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
75
was
cancelled.
must not
The native
let
us say at
once, lazy.
76
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
I regret
damaged
is
also
TWENTY YEARS
jugs
made
of similar glass,
IN
ROUMANIA
and various
little
77
acces-
for
the
toilet
it
and
it
away.
finally gave
There are a few breweries in Roumania, and one
of the best known is at Azuga.
Azuga beer is very
It bears some resemblance
light, not heady at all.
to Munich beer in quality but not in price. Beer in
Roumania is very expensive, a bottle about the size
"
"
of a
small Bass
The reason
costing one franc.
for this is the enormous tax imposed on the output,
which is at the rate of 50 per cent. The tax is
out,
when
travelling in
summer
to
remember
that,
in
TWENTY YEARS
78
IN
ROUMANIA
resembles
its
is
much cheaper
the
country, and
national
Emmenthaler, Roquefort,
tated.
Sheep's cheese,
etc.,
unknown
in this country,
at
all
piquant.
One
made
bark.
is
When
served at table
that
it
packed
is
in
milk.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
79
known by
known
this time.
much
is
and
of
discussion
and were
selling
to the Americans.
TWENTY YEARS
80
was
also,
think,
IN
ROUMANIA
prompted by consideration of
capital.
exploitation
of
Americans
feller, in
The discovery
life.
By
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
81
is
Paris or
Monte
Carlo,
new
Everything, trips to
"
Will there be a good
upon the question,
When snow begins to fall early in
harvest ?
winter, farmers are very pleased; they say snow
means gold for the country, as it protects the seed
from the severe cold and from the frost which is
turns
'
sure to follow.
CHAPTER IX
The Jews as traders Their vigorous
They exploit the peasants of the countryside as wineshopkeepers and moneylenders The Jews as tenants of estates
sublet at rack rents The original proprietor cannot see that he
has any share of responsibility for the grinding down of the
methods
peasants
An
few years
make a
Paris Jews
is
a double one.
JEWS
them.
In
for
They
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
83
Roumania
is
in the
menial service.
In the Strada Lipscani and the neighbouring
streets almost all the shopkeepers are Jews, and
when business is slack they are always to be found at
their shop doors pressing the passers-by to enter and
inspect the goods.
84
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
in the
However,
many have
clutches of the
another
moneylender, their
owner finding it impossible to redeem them, and he
may count himself lucky if he gets out of the Jew's
hands still having a roof over his head. The
Roumanians are an improvident race, and the fault
lies on their side as much as on that of the Jews,
although they will never confess it. All their
railings are against the exorbitant interest demanded
from them. It is not to be denied that the Jew
oppresses them when he gets the chance but then
why give him the chance ?
falls
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
class
who
85
possess
get.
On
who
Roumania.
all
went on as
before.
TWENTY YEARS
86
Jew
is
IN
ROUMANIA
so
indemnify themselves.
wily enough to take care of his
The
own
interests.
themselves
from
the
original
proprietors.
All
Paris,
attraction for the
high-class character.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
87
is
heard.
it is
the Rabbi,
nearer,
and
who comes
slowly
and
the
looking curiously
up
synagogue chanting
at the people present, who are assuredly not all
The Rabbi on this particular occasion
Jews.
squints, the effect being most comical as he casts
his eyes now to the right and now to the left.
few minutes
behind.
The bride and groom now take their stand under
the canopy, and the service begins. There is a good
deal of chanting, and finally the moment arrives
when the wine is offered. The bridegroom drinks
88
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
till
younger to marry
of.
CHAPTER X
The educational system Long hours of study and no fresh air or
exercise Take Jonescu, as Minister of Education, introduces
the bath-tub to the schools, and provides for walking exercise
School -fare
is
and show
questions
never
good
water famine
Examinations
EDUCATION
Roumania,
free
but in
The
many
winked
Government
attendance at school
harvest-time.
is
especially at
primary schools
at,
education. Although
from
Roumanian children,
expected
they are sadly handicapped. Their own tongue is
very much
is
90
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
is
given in
Naturally, with so many subjects in the curriculum, there is not much time to lose if one is to get
all one's work done for the next day in a certain
attempted in
this direction.
may have
next day.
pupil
may employ
classes
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
91
was
due
the
the
It
is
if it
had
92
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
from it.
This, together with
the
second
If a governess
forms
course.
vegetables,
cannot bring herself to swallow it, or can plead a
bad headache, she may be allowed a bifteck but as
the beef-steaks are difficult to distinguish from a bit
been
extracted
meal.
glass of the
water
It
used to look as
fallen into it
tasted.
all
mountain water
a hot summer day.
But even in the mountains the supply may run
I
short, as happened one exceedingly hot summer.
and
it
the
was
the only
was at Sinaia at
time,
occasion in my whole life when I envied a queen.
I heard that her Majesty alone amongst all the
people of the land was able to indulge in the luxury
of a daily bath.
But to return. The examinations are usually in
the month of June, both State examinations and
is, it
Upon
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
93
with
tall
had to
be.
German was even more curiously taught. Roumanian children do not like German, so they are
never very proficient in it. Not knowing the
language sufficiently well to study in it, German
literature was taught in French and when the girls
presented themselves for the State examination,
they were questioned in Roumanian
One may wonder why they do not learn in their
own tongue the explanation is, to a large extent,
;
TWENTY YEARS
94
IN
ROUMANIA
1
There are no advanced
simply the lack of books.
books in the Roumanian language dealing with
foreign subjects, so the children are obliged to use
French, a language in which they are more or less
proficient.
of which
several years ago
has been remedied to a considerable
extent.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
One present
95
remember
seeing consisted of three lovely carpets of Roumanian
obtained.
gift is usually
Roumanian
children
are
often
sent
for
their
some
new
own
That
is
country,
its
one reason
so much
who have been educated
is
in
France
fall
utterly under
96
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
was a Greek,
who,
rich,
The
girl left
home one
after-
knowledge.
CHAPTER XI
Take Jonescu, an enlightened Minister of Education " La bouche
d'or" His personality A true Roumanian in his almost Oriental
love of luxury His town and country houses Madame Jonescu
as an authoress Her menagerie of pets The love-story of Take
Jonescu The meeting of the law student and the English girl
A trip to England follows Obstacles are overcome and a
happy marriage follows.
JONESCU,
TAKE
over
of Demetre)
Foreign Minister.
When the Conservative party is not in power,
M. Jonescu follows his profession. He is the most
brilliant advocate in Roumania, and the side that
succeeds in retaining his services in a case is almost
certain of success.
It has
is a rich man,
the
case.
He
has
little or no
scarcely
private means, being simply dependent upon his pro-
but this
is
97
98
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
It
fessional income, which is, however, very large.
is for him a very great sacrifice (from a monetary
point of view) to accept a portfolio, as the salary
imposing.
It
is
TWENTY YEARS
animals,
and
it
may
IN
almost
ROUMANIA
99
"
that the
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals" established itself in Bucarest, where
the
efficient
carried
on
in
a most
manner.
100
TWENTY YEARS
go the way of
all flesh,
IN
ROUMANIA
time,
it
was heard
heads and
Madame
in future.
may
just
nature,
this
vicious
by
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
101
her
fits
and went so
with Armina
far as to
in his arms.
am
little
England.
On one occasion Mr Richards was entrusted by
King Carol with a special mission to the Porte. He
chose to take with him as a sort of official attendant
our friend (and Armina's) the policeman. Mr
Richards was decorated by the Sultan on the accomplishment of his mission, and it was expected that
the policeman would receive some acknowledgment
in accordance with his humble rank.
I daresay
small things interested us in that distant land, but
TWENTY YEARS
102
IN
ROUMANIA
travelling to
in
girl
entered the
Seeing that
CHAPTER
XII
The Battle of Flowers The devotees of the cardRafting on the Bistritza, a glorious sport.
and trainers
table
Roumanians
THEthe
9 o'clock p.m.,
and
as
the
is
is
often
still
later.
very
only
104
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
whether
it
Roumanian
On
thing
and
else.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
105
windows were smashed, and one house especiThe rumour ran that in
ally was almost wrecked.
the mele"e a student had been killed, and was conable,
their point
Theatre was
reserved for
extent.
was given
any great
is
any kind.
Some members of the Jockey Club (formed by an
Englishman years ago) keep a stud of horses, and
races are held twice a year, in spring and autumn.
These races are very notable events, and they are
very well attended, as they are always patronised
by members of the royal family, and of course
106
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
and
it
would be a bold
the Chaussee presented a very animated appearance from an early hour in the afternoon, all the
economical souls going as early as possible in order
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
107
much
There is a broad
carriage way, planted on both sides with beautiful
lime trees, extending for miles, till it finally ends
in the open country.
At each side of this broad
is
a
walk
for
way
pedestrians, well furnished with
seats, and at the right is also a pathway for riders.
The Chaussee, it may be imagined, is very gay
smaller scale.
TWENTY YEARS
108
IN
ROUMANIA
who drove
her smart
and
She and her perfect
in for a liberal
little
little
equipage
made a charm-
ing picture.
Now
it
many
very amusing.
final drive
through the
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
109
but the
and
card-table,
last
all
named seems
to be the favourite.
Cards
enormous amount of interest in the pastime. Cardplaying seems to be a mania with them. They sit
down to the tables in the early afternoon and
continue playing till far into the night. Of course
it must be conceded that life in the
provinces is
In summer it is pleasant enough when
dull.
there are garden-parties, tennis-matches, and concerts
but in winter there is absolutely no amusedeadly
;
110
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
The
raft
is
logs
exercised to keep
may
collision
it
well in
take place.
is
nothing
must be
mid- stream so that no
The current is very
men
steering the
There are always
raft
is
swollen
by the waters
of the Bicassu, as
is
often
When
falls
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
111
made most
enjoyable, and
have
country
delightful
recollections of the smooth, swift motion down the
river, with the brown waters swirling and eddying
round the raft, the sun-flecked boughs now near
on
most
now
visitors to the
far
away
will
CHAPTER
The
XIII
the
the
month
human
plants
The
performed
in
Roumania.
Russia,
so
it
similar
ceremony
probably owes its
Greek Church.
A very smart pavilion, decorated with a profusion
of gay flags, is erected for the occasion on the bank
of the Dimbovitza, the river on which Bucarest is
origin to the
built.
On
manage
and
it is
The approach
King is announced by a
fanfare of trumpets, and as the Court carriage
dashes up to the entrance of the pavilion every
of the
neck
who
is
is
112
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
113
After the reception of the King by the Metropolitan, the religious service begins with the intoning
These can only be heard by those
of the prayers.
near
the
in
vicinity, but the singing by the choir is
audible for a long distance in the clear frosty air.
When
The
"
baptising
of
the
Jew
ceremony.
A very curious custom
'
is
is
This
time-honoured
observed when, as
is
114
TWENTY YEARS
Even bunches
IN
ROUMANIA
faces,
nothing which
is
not
When
reluctant at
first
appeared to enjoy
rain-makers.
was
On
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
left
115
behind in the
country.
The
rustic visitors
with their
home
CHAPTER XIV
Festivals
The
dress
A cruel
bride's
christening Marriage-making
moral references Anonymous
The
letters
floral
Child brides
fiance a bore
The
departure
Tempted
bridal
Hired
to the
are numerous,
FESTIVALS
on a very lavish
scale.
Baptisms, marriages,
"
and " names- days are usually made the occasion of
on the
saint's
is
named, as
Many
this
in
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
117
TWENTY YEARS
118
IN
ROUMANIA
week or two."
bride's residence
fill
of
anonymous
and sug-
place.
bride's dress does not differ very
that of her western sister, with the ex-
Roumanian
much from
ception of the veil. Instead of a veil, as we understand it, a quantity of gold thread is worn, falling
from the head to the edge of the dress. It has a
The
one
civil
day,
following.
The
latter
TWENTY YEARS
evening,
IN
ROUMANIA
toilets
119
his
crown
is
so liable to
fall off.
The bride
is safe,
as hers
is
ward journey.
all
extraordinary for
girls
of fifteen or
120
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
fancied, therefore
she
readily agreed.
When
bridegroom
elect
had an
inspiration.
Throwing
CHAPTER XV
Pretty
Roumanian women
toilets
dandy
the evil eye The efficacy of hot coals and a cup of water
The Martisoara, or March token A wife's indiscretion
a story of poetic justice The Martisoara as a tempunished
peramental barometer.
:
ladies are
ROUMANIAN
and some are very pretty.
is
and
is
for
is
is
powder and
Dyeing
paint.
also greatly in vogue, even with young
it is
knew two
daughters of Princess
(who
upon her title) who were very
pretty girls with dark brown hair. Evidently they
were discontented with it, as on meeting them one
day I noticed, to my utter amazement, that their
hair was golden.
I was so taken aback that I could
not at once congratulate them on their appearance,
I
sisters,
always insisted
me
to do so.
On
TWENTY YEARS
122
IN
ROUMANIA
my
seeing
however,
it
me
to matter
what
Roumanians know how to dress, the ladies especially, and as every article of the toilet comes from
Paris, their taste
is
They
to
the
wealthiest
classes
of
society
even
grown children
money
in
to spend,
many
cases
as long as they
had to be spent.
remember a case
had
it
in point.
particularly
man
considerable
of
Bucarest
inherited
a
young
sum
At once he invested
of money.
carriage and a
in
a smart
He was
suits of clothes
This joyous
life
went on
for a time,
till
the
money
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
123
The men
a
rule.
of
They
Roumania
country.
The boots that one buys in Roumania are usually
of a very light make, both for winter and summer.
(l) upwards
TWENTY YEARS
124
IN
ROUMANIA
No
Dreams
are
certain
con-
of course, on
past experience, either of the raconteur or of some
clusions are
friend.
Little children
"
in order to
evil eye."
keep
It is rather
little girl blue.
off
TWENTY YEARS
fortunes would have been
ROUMANIA 125
presaged. A teaspoonIN
They
cost
are therefore of
may
be, the
all prices.
practice
of
The idea
is
giving the
dew
of heaven
may
besprinkle them.
colouring.
TWENTY YEARS
126
an impertinence, but
make
also
IN
ROUMANIA
older
men
frequently
use of the occasion to give presents in quarters
literally
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
127
interesting one.
discreetly,
IN
It
calculated not to arouse suspicion, he suffered himself to be beaten down to 1000 francs.
much wanted
and
it
was
here that the
it,
M. M. at first kept his wife,
and the great pleasure he was in a position to afford
soara tremendously.
Several very
to obtain possession of
complications started.
my
long residence in
other things, that
128
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
CHAPTER XVI
English nurses introduce the bath-tub Matutinal ablutions in a
country house Abstinence from ablutions a proof of holiness
The funeral of a Metropolitan dead prelate in the procession
Afternoon tea's equivalent in a tomb.
:
is
He
is
of
It
is
nurse her
own
child.
Roumanian lady
wet nurse
is
to
always en-
gaged,
it is
of her children.
Of
late years,
many
families
lish nurses,
of open
129
130
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
131
Indeed, I cannot
conceive of anybody ever forgetting such an experiThe ceremony was of a most imposing charence.
acter.
to witness the
lest
ministers,
his chair.
132
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
left
by
their
the
of red tape.
six or
is
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
133
"
the anniversary of her names-day," relatives
and friends are bidden to the vault, where they are
entertained with black coffee and dulceata.
Another curious monument is the lifesize effigy of
a lady whose body lies beneath. The figure stands
on a flat tombstone and holds a fan in its hands.
A fan does seem an incongruity in a graveyard.
Attached to nearly every tombstone is the photograph of the person who rests beneath.
On
CHAPTER XVII
The servant question not
so acute as in England
Establishments
prohibitive
"
"
master
servant
THERoumania question
as
it is
is
in England.
and abso-
it.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
135
from
is
priest
TWENTY YEARS
136
IN
ROUMANIA
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
137
till
we
We
cried.
Servants are not required to have written references, but they are furnished by the police authorities with small books in which all particulars regarding themselves are recorded, and they are
required to produce these on taking service anew.
These records are always a hold upon them. Should
they have a fancy to go off without permission or
to take with them any property not lawfully theirs,
they can easily be traced by means of these small
books, duplicates of which remain in the possession
of the police.
In very many houses the servants' quarters are
Sometimes a small
quite apart from the house.
house in the courtyard is provided for them but
;
even
if
at night.
Roumanian
servants
it very often
very different indeed
I heard
happens that they have no beds at all
once of a young fellow being brought fresh from the
it is
138
TWENTY YEARS
IN ROUMANIA
"
randasch." On the mistress
country to act as
being questioned by one of her friends as to where
he would sleep, she replied, " Oh, anywhere at all
he does not need a bed." Further investigation
showed that he simply lay down on his own little
;
not so
much
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
139
and
lived
together as
man and
wife.
young
family grew up around them, and their circumstances caused the utmost grief to the girl's poor old
mother in Germany, who felt keenly her daughter's
From her poor resources she contrived to
disgrace.
TWENTY YEARS
140
IN
ROUMANIA
young family.
Good cooks are pretty well paid, receiving 50, 60,
up to 100 francs monthly, but they have also a fair
amount of work to do. Sugar in Roumania is
bought by the loaf, and amongst her multitudinous
duties the cook must see that it is cut into small
She must roast and grind the coffee daily.
pieces.
Above all, she must go in good time to market
(some go before 5 a.m.), otherwise the best of the
country produce will have gone.
Servants are very respectful to each other, never
using each other's name without prefacing it with
"
Madam." " Madam Anna has gone to market."
"
Madam Marie is busy washing just now." It is
"
very curious that this title of Madam," as distinct
from "Madame," is almost entirely confined to the
servant class.
"Cocanitza" or "Cocoiana," the
Roumanian term for " mistress," is only given to
the lady of the house. The words "Coconash"
"
Cozonac " (a kind of cake), as it
(master) and
happens, resemble each other in the pronunciation.
A friend of mine, an English lady, sent from time to
time for this cake, as she liked it for tea, but could
not understand why the servant seemed always so
amused, till at last she found out that she had
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
141
was obliged to
when
your hand."
I must find space for an example of
understand has come to be known here as a
"
howler." It is really too good to be overlooked.
I once gave a pupil a portion of the fourteenth
chapter of St Mark to turn from French into
In her translation I found this gem
English.
"
The ghost is agreeable, but the meat is feeble."
A cake that is very popular in Roumania is one
made of alternate layers of dough and a mixture
It must be made in a
of apples, currants, and sugar.
very cool place, and one requires a large table for
the task. When the dough is ready, it is rolled out
very thin, then placed on the table and drawn out
over it at every side till it is scarcely thicker than
paper. The mixture of apples, currants, raisins,
sugar, and spice stands ready, and a portion is
spread over the paste, which is then doubled over
and another layer of the mixture spread upon it.
The process is repeated till the paste has assumed
the form of a great sausage nearly a yard in length.
It is then bent in the shape of a horse-shoe, put into
the oven and baked. When it is cooked, no better
cake could be desired. When I first became
acquainted with this delicacy, I was rather curious
I think
what
142
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
it
house designated.
Cards of congratulation are sent in such numbers
New
them.
On
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
143
;>
much merriment.
CHAPTER XVIII
A Roumanian Jack Sheppard The
Procedure in murder cases The reconScant justice for servants
struction of the crime
no Habeas
Corpus Act in Roumania A man whose face was the only
evidence against him Gipsies and the building trade the men
act as masons and bricklayers, the women as their labourers
Exhibition of new clothes when a roof is put on Fiddling
ragamuffins Gipsies as musicians Guarding against gipsies in
the Carpathians.
Convict
life
in the salt-mines
him low
accommodation
in
PRISON
siderably better now than
Roumania
it
is
used to be.
con-
The
cells are light and airy, and the prison fare is not
worse than in other countries. Capital punishment
If a person be convicted of a
is not inflicted.
his
will be imprisonment in
sentence
capital crime,
the salt-mines for life or for a long term of years.
These salt-mines are situated at Ocna Mare, and it
is quite an interesting experience to pay a visit to
them. Before descending into the depths, visitors
are required to don a large loose overall to protect
The descent in the cage is soon over,
their clothes.
and one finds oneself in a large hall hewn out of
the solid salt, which, when lighted up, flashes out
The prisoners make
brilliant colours innumerable.
the descent every morning, and stay below for a
certain number of hours for work, after which they
are re-conducted to their prison home. They are
allowed to manufacture small articles of salt, wood,
144
TWENTY YEARS
IN ROUMANIA
145
On
10
146
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
when
rid of
is
never
him could
be devised.
the
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
147
had nothing
to go upon,
He
TWENTY YEARS
148
IN
ROUMANIA
but
gipsies
dation,
must provide them with proper accommoand that sanitary considerations must be
respected.
may
see
new
the breeze.
skirts, coats,
The
scaffolding
is
and blouses
fluttering in
TWENTY YEARS
to be
smoke
just as
much
IN
ROUMANIA
The women
bitter end."
as the men.
149
Another occupa-
he
is
head covering.
The
little
children
are
picturesque,
and they
They do
150
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
and
terribly
afraid
of
the
gipsies.
The
forest,
to the back
CHAPTER XIX
King Carol as a diplomat Lichnowsky as a Secretary of Legation
The scandal about his chief's (Prince von Biilow) wife I see
something at Bad Hall A great ladies' man he goes too far
" to another
"
at length and is
sphere Kiderleinpromoted
An unfortunate dinner-party
Wachter, genial and popular
over which his housekeeper presided Prince Gulochowski and
Some British ambassadors Sir Frank Lascelles and
his wife
How the latter rendered me a
Sir Charles (now Lord) Hardinge
great service Sir Henry Drummond Wolff Sir John Kennedy
and Lady Kennedy and their family Better times for the
British colony The British colony Its religious interests
Bishop Collins and his visits to Bucarest His tragic end deeply
regretted Since the war Bucarest has many more British
A British Chamber of Commerce, and a projected club.
visitors
:
THE
late
of this
secretaries
It
was the
on their
case, at
staff
any
rate.
151
TWENTY YEARS
152
IN
ROUMANIA
his chief.
Bad
at
members
His
of the local society.
became
dead
attentions to a certain personage since
amongst the
fair
more.
part of
my stay in Bucarest.
Germans do.
His household was composed of three or four
In
servants, a valet, and a lady housekeeper.
regard to the last-named he rather got into hot
He issued
water with the Roumanian ladies.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
153
when the
guests
arrived and dinner was announced, the head of the
Intable was taken by the lady housekeeper
!
man! he
suddenly, I believe.
Prince Gulochowski was also in Bucarest some
remember him
Royal Theatre
Of our own diplomats, not a few of our wellknown men spent some time in Roumania.
Sir Frank Lascelles, a relative of the Earl of
Harewood, was English Minister at Bucarest before
being appointed to Teheran.
154
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
my
feet once I
permission to enter
it.
Henry Drummond
Bucarest.
The family
and
Roumania.
TWENTY YEARS
Sir
IN
ROUMANIA
155
their daughter
for the greater part of the time at
predecessors.
Of
the
families,
156
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
garments
am
southern
Europe,
in
Roumania, as
belongs
to
in
the
most parts
diocese of
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
157
We
manage
it
TWENTY YEARS
158
IN
ROUMANIA
comment.
no longer
calls
British
How
good
it is
to
know
is
now
CHAPTER XX
The French colony
An
outspoken abbe
and
hospitals
Teaching or nursing ?
hospitals An eminent surgeon, Dr Thomas
Jonescu An erratic American dentist His exclusive practice
Leaves a Prince waiting with open mouth whilst he goes on
a trip to Sinaia.
deaconesses
Roumanian
French
THERoumania,
are
fairly
well
represented
in
called
"The
Cathedral."
all
being represented.
TWENTY YEARS
160
At
first
the Roumanians,
IN
who
ROUMANIA
are noted for their
in Bucarest is the
the
instruction
Sion,"
given there being
of a high order, the French language naturally being
predominant. The school is not only attended by
"
Dames de
French children
afford
called
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
161
an
the
had
large
girls'
school
in
Bucarest,
where German,
German
in every department.
The
11
162
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
in
its
simplicity,
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
163
severe to the last degree, till Queen Elizabeth conceived the fantastic idea of decorating it, and
it
after
TWENTY YEARS
164
IN
ROUMANIA
first.
to
me
the rest of the day she may wear what she likes.
These attendants, for they are no more, seldom
master even the first rudiments of nursing.
The manager
own
pocket.
well watered.
you
are,
you
will
him, he
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
165
Dr
He was
intimate friends.
166
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
An
had
left for
Sinaia
friends
and acquaintances.
CHAPTER XXI
The coming
of
King Carol
Roumanians
dislike the
Germans and
hate the
THE
difficulties lay in
TWENTY YEARS
168
IN
ROUMANIA
theatrical plan.
Inducing Prince Carol to enact the
role of valet, he travelled with him from Vienna.
"
Kiichner
"
his
and
was
assumed the
title
iron obtained
for the
etc.
TWENTY YEARS
fortunes of
IN
ROUMANIA
169
when
balls
were given
besides
170
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
"
Cononly necessary to write one's name in the
"
provided at the entrance of the
gratulations Book
was at once forwarded.
invitation
an
Palace, and
These gatherings were most amusing, the wives of
butchers and bakers wearing the most extravagant
The crush was tremendous, and reached
toilets.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
171
He was
to
its
a born
soldier,
CHAPTER XXII
Queen Elizabeth (Carmen Sylva) An early dilemma no divorcees,
no Court A quaint divorce story The true story of the meeting of Carol and Elizabeth Did she love the country or its
King ? Her dead child's tomb The Queen as a writer Her
:
its
unlucky palace.
ON
ditions,"
was
his
quick reply.
Finally, after
much
fact (for
it is
very much
trivial pretexts.
is
still
Incompatifrequently accepted as a
sufficient plea.
172
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
173
man
unable to alter the law, he frequently takes unto himself his former helpmeet, and lives with her without
the sanction of Church or State.
A rather amusing case came under my own obserA professor of one of the
vation some years ago.
colleges was betrothed to a young girl whom I knew
on both sides seemed equally pleased, everything went as merrily as the proverbial wedding bell.
The house was taken, furnished, and decorated.
This is always the work of the bride, and is carried
relatives
out at the expense of her parents, as the bridegroomelect is not supposed to contribute anything towards
The marriage took place,
setting up housekeeping.
and a great reception was given at which champagne
flowed freely. All seemed to go well for some months,
then the first little rift in the lute appeared. Vague
stories were heard that all was not in harmony at
the professor's then, later on, that the couple were
going to seek a divorce. They not only sought it,
but obtained it, the lady returning to her parents,
and the gentleman resuming his former bachelor life.
All this may seem commonplace enough, but the
sequel was a curious one. The summer holidays
were approaching, Madame longed to travel, but to
;
TWENTY YEARS
174
IN
ROUMANIA
On
"
Good-bye
"
to
it
here.
The
real
meeting
came about
in
this
wise.
Roumania
called
on
eagerly to everything
So interested was she that
listened
On
she
TWENTY YEARS
had the
IN
ROUMANIA
175
park of Cotroceni, a
from
Bucarest. The
palace at a short distance
tomb erected there is of white marble, and repre-
let
foot
is
showing.
It
is
tomb
surrounded
always guarded by a policeman.
The
gifted
is
Her books,
Deficit,
Letters
from
the
Battlefield,
TWENTY YEARS
176
IN
ROUMANIA
but
was not
till
guests.
The
late
Queen was
also a poetess of
no mean
order, composing sonnets at odd moments sometimes even during the night if she were in a wakeful mood.
The King would then be awakened
from a sound sleep to pass judgment upon the
work.
After that, one will not be astonished to hear
that the King of Roumania had a sweet temper.
As a young girl, the Queen, as her photographs
show, was very pretty, with fair hair and rosy
cheeks the usual type of German beauty. In later
life she became very stout, and with her extremely
red face framed in perfectly white hair she presented
a rather remarkable appearance. She never wore
either hat or bonnet, simply a lace mantilla thrown
carelessly over her head.
One never saw her without a smile on her face,
so that one could not help wondering if it were still
there during her sleep.
She had very affable
and
could
be
manners,
extremely charming.
Now, one must not think that the Queen was only
That is not so the practical side of her
artistic.
character was seen from time to time. At the time
of the war against Turkey her Majesty did splendid
work. Ladies were invited to the palace to help in
a
making bandages, others in making garments
;
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
177
was
He
On
12
178
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
home
prepared to go to rest in a
small room adjoining her boudoir. She was anxious
to tell us that she never disturbed the King when
she came in late. This was very considerate of her,
but probably he lost enough rest when she was
seized with her fits of poetic inspiration.
As I have already remarked, the late Queen was
very fond of children, and always happy when
surrounded by them. But there were moments of
anxiety for their elders, as the little mites could not
be expected always to exercise discretion.
A lady whom I knew had been in Paris for a
On returning to
few years with her husband.
Bucarest the Queen expressed a wish to see her
The children were taken to the palace
little boys.
and presented to her Majesty, who caressed them
and made a great fuss over them. In the course of
"
conversation she inquired,
Now, children, what
did you think about me when you knew you were
coming to see a Queen ? What did you think I
"
To the dismay of the mother,
should be like ?
"
I didn't think you
a clear treble voice piped out,
would be so old." The Queen, however, took it very
"
But grandmamma is also
well, merely remarking,
"Oh no," objected both children; "grandold."
TWENTY YEARS
mamma
IN
ROUMANIA
179
school for orphan girls, in which they receive instrucand are trained for domestic service. The girls
tion
an
offer
young man
is
willingly
"
the Queen herself said,
in the care of the orphan
girls of the Asyle Helene."
The park itself is of considerable extent, and contains some fine trees.
The palace stands on an
eminence commanding a good view of the town ;
180
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
The late King and Queen were very fond of CotroIn their time it
ceni, and frequently stayed there.
was a simple country house, with long French
windows opening out on the parterres of flowers in
front.
On
CHAPTER XXIII
Ferdinand of Sigmaringen becomes heir to the throne He is a good
The friend of the
soldier and a favourite with his officers
Allies
His marriage with Princess Marie The Princess's
a lonely stranger A gala performance The
home-coming
Prince's mission to Germany Roumanian officers meet half a
"
dozen Herr Mahlzeits."
:
AS
his
He
carries himself
much more
assuredly,
dignified bearing that impresses the Roumanians. He was, I believe, entirely at one with
his people as regards the late war.
and has a
181
182
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
He
initiate
It
her
Court
life
in
Roumania. It was said that the Duchess of Edinburgh had wished her daughter to be accompanied
by an English maid-of-honour but on that point
King Carol was very obstinate, and would not allow
It must have been a lonely time
it on any account.
;
for the
young
girl
some mounted
embowered
in flowers.
Princess Marie, looking
rather pale and scared, was seated beside King Carol,
whilst Prince Ferdinand occupied a back seat.
It
lines
for the
newly-made hus-
TWENTY YEARS
IN
band to be relegated to a
ROUMANIA
183
back
but
solitary
seat,
When
suite
of the garrison.
The Roumanian officers
entered the anteroom before the Prince appeared,
officers
know
loss.
Now
all travellers
that
names.
know
will also
184
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
told
me
fairly
'
CHAPTER XXIV
The
tablecloth
merry mood
communion and
nesses
PRINCESS
at the German
and prompted by a
mouth
spirit of mischief,
185
ablution,
TWENTY YEARS
186
finger
leau
IN
ROUMANIA
and poked it into his distended cheek. TabThe water spurted across the table, and there
Her nose
her hand
lies
The youngest girl, Ileana, is also fair, with chinablue eyes. Even as a very young child she had a
great idea of her own importance, and if the person to
whom she was presented did not please her she
could not be induced to be pleasant. At the garden
it was most amusing to watch her
about
among the guests with quite a conparading
sequential air, and she was not much more than a
parties at Sinaia
baby
then.
TWENTY YEARS
Princess Helene of Greece,
dare say he
is
IN
is
much changed
ROUMANIA
fine fellow,
187
though
when
At the afternoon
TWENTY YEARS
188
IN ROUMANIA
the
little
my
friend.
who were
account of
how
little sailor,
He
"
!
sailors
on
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
189
he retains
When
mouth
I
in
wonder
190
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
own
CHAPTER XXV
"
"
Winter in Rouniaiiia Fetes on the ice An escaped bear causes
a sensation, till he loses his head Prince Carol establishes the
bob-sleigh as a society craze An unlucky accident to Princess
Elizabeth An end to bob -sleighing Sleighs and winter costumes Christmas New Year's Eve.
WINTER
in Roumania
compensate
from before
for
send out
men
someone
else.
191
192
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
193
by
soldiers
to prevent
194
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
at
furious
speed.
collision
came from Bucarest to cease bob-sleighing immediately, and the young people were ordered to return
forthwith to the capital. This decree admitted of
no appeal, so very ruefully the sleighs were stored
away and the party returned to town.
Most probably Prince Carol received a good
lecture from the King on the dangers of such sport.
At any rate, there was no more bob-sleighing that
winter.
TWENTY YEARS
Ordinary sleighing is
snow is deep enough.
disappear at once from
the only vehicles to be
little vehicles,
There
room
IN
ROUMANIA
195
drawn by two
horses.
in front seated
for
gentlemen.
Private sleighs are handsomely, some even splenThe rich furs of the sleigh robes
didly, equipped.
and the silver-plated harness with its innumerable tinkling silver bells, the beautiful horses
gaily caparisoned with bright blue and crimson
woven nets which cover their quarters and spread
back into the sleigh, thus protecting the occupants
from the kicked-up snow, combine in adding
wonderful life and colour to the picture of the Calea
Victorie on a sunny winter day.
When the snow is
the
smooth, rapid motion is very
deep enough,
but if one passes through a street
exhilarating
which has been partly swept either by broom or by
the wind, the bump, bump over the paved street is
anything but pleasant. To rush swiftly along the
Calea Victorie, then right on to the end of the
Chaussee with the keen wind just nipping the face
whilst the rest of the body is cosily enveloped in
furs, is one of the most delightful experiences of the
winter in Roumania.
During this season you must protect yourself
from the severe cold. Sometimes it is so severe
that men are to be seen with their moustaches
;
frozen quite
stiff.
a rule
196
TWENTY YEARS
it
IN
ROUMANIA
in the winter
renders
which
is
For instance, a
costume.
Ladies and children also wear very heavy fur"
lined coats, and over the hat the inevitable
glouga,"
a pointed cap something in the style of a witch's
cap, made of stout cloth and with long ends that
one can wind round the neck and tie in a knot. The
"
"
is to protect the head and ears, and is
glouga
and give
Roumanians
Christmas
is observed chiefly as a religious holiday, the real
fete being New Year's Eve.
Then it is that the
families who have children light up their Christmas
tree and distribute the presents.
Every visitor
must have a little remembrance from the tree, no
are very charitable
readily.
TWENTY YEARS
matter
pagne
how
is
IN
ROUMANIA
197
of
much
clinking of glasses
side.
is
holly as they
never seen there.
indeed, holly
of Roumania tried to cultivate
in the
Roumanians
is
constantly
evidenced by
similar
acts of courtesy.
Roumanians as a rule are very kind and thoughtful for others, and their hospitality knows no
As a Latin race
sympathies and
affection naturally go out to the French, but my
own observations convince me that their respect
and esteem are given to the English more than to
bounds.
their
CHAPTER XXVI
SlNAIA
Sinaia and
its
summer Court
Gay
in the Carpathians
life
Court
in national
costume
recalled.
lovely
and fashionable
resort
is
situated in
THIS
the valley of the Prahova,
and is surrounded
by mountains, which present no very great difficulties of ascent to the ordinary
apart from
mountaineer.
Sinaia
residences, of a
a small concert-room, and a really fine
bathing establishment. In the hotel gardens a
on the
military band plays three times a week
alternate days it is stationed in the forest, in the
vicinity of a pretty little restaurant on the road
leading up to the palace. On this spot the visitors
delight to congregate and listen to the strains of the
band. There is no lack of seats, as wooden benches
and even tables are generously provided. To sit
there inhaling the delicious perfume of the pines,
brought out by the warm rays of the sun, sipping at
the same time a glass of tucia or other beverage, and
lazily criticising the passers-by on the road below, is
an important part of the daily life at Sinaia.
itself consists,
its villa
casino,
198
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
199
is
by the
late
King
Carol.
It
is
merry
little
river Pelesch,
from which
200
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
them
out, as
is
very picturesque.
material,
The
woven by the
petticoat, of a
peasants,
is
em-
TWENTY YEARS
broidered at the bottom.
is
IN
ROUMANIA
201
wide-sleeved blouse
and with
it is
worn a
hair, at
No
guest of
Roumania
Sinaia.
The
side, whilst
202
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
arboreal restaurant
Fontainebleau which
of Juan Fernandez.
is
named
the Forest of
after the castaway
in
be found there.
her
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
203
"
"
is gained
Crusoe
Access to the
is let
of
a
with
wide
which
means
ladder
steps,
by
down when required. When the visitors are safely
ensconced in their leafy retreat the ladder is drawn
up, and they remain there shut in on three sides by
foliage and cut off from communication with the
world below save by telegraph, for a wire connects
it with the palace.
Nothing disturbs the perfect
calm and quiet at such a height, and many pleasant
hours have been spent by her Royal Highness and
a chosen few in that little nest. Nest is indeed the
word, for that is the meaning of the Roumanian name
"
"
cuib
by which the retreat is generally known.
beautiful view.
TWENTY YEARS
204
IN
ROUMANIA
Princess Ella.
she
One
up the scene,
the
and, beyond,
peaks of the Carpathians stretchfar
into
the
ing
up
sky ; or in winter, when the
is
ground
thickly carpeted with snow, and every
branch and twig stands outlined against the sky.
After a sharp frost, when the sun breaks through the
clouds, lighting up the frozen branches and turning them into silver, the scene is fairy-like.
Sinaia is also not to be despised in autumn when
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
205
weeks of each year at Sinaia, where I have frequently been a guest at the beautiful country home
of the late Madame Take Jonescu, amongst others.
I have visited the lovely place at every season of
the year, and know it in all its varying moods.
CHAPTER XXVII
Franz d'Este and his morganatic wife at Sinaia My recollection of
him at Vienna Society girls with cold feet The German
Crown Prince was popular at Bucarest But he was only there
"
"
a fortnight The King and his
Predeal The
shadowers
A
little
over
the
frontier
leap
smuggling A beautiful and
historic road.
his
morganatic
Queen
They were received there in a
very private circle, no public reception being accorded them, as of course the Fiirstin, not being of
the same exalted rank as her husband, could not
have taken her place at his side. When the ArchElizabeth.
duke went to the Spanish wedding as representaEmperor of Austria his wife accompanied
him only to San Sebastian, and there awaited his
tive of the
return.
when
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
207
Roumania.
At the dances
On
Roumanian
officers
who
simply saying,
My
father wished
me
to give
you
TWENTY YEARS
208
this."
IN
ROUMANIA
Roumanians, who
like to dispense
with ceremony
themselves.
the German
for
Carol's desire
Of
They behaved
in
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
It
is
209
sur-
therefore
they
gave
special
facilities
for
ditch
TWENTY YEARS
210
ROUMANIA
IN
it
The Customs
officials
is
in
my memory
as
write.
foot,
of provisions.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
211
The
of difficulty, to arrive in the valley beneath.
slight bruises that we had sustained in the descent
were now speedily forgotten, and we greatly enjoyed
our lunch, supplemented as it was by the wild
raspberries and strawberries which were growing
there in abundance. As our party was mostly
Time
flame.
212
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
disliked
it.
When
much
supreme
sacrifice.
CHAPTER XXVIII
A delightful equestrian excursion We leave Sinaia in order to witness
the sunrise from Omul Midnight in the forest, and the ghostly
hours before the dawn Gathering edelweiss whilst we await
the sunrise A glorious spectacle The coveted province spread
out before our eyes An equestrian quadrille on the summit of
Omul The guest-house of the monastery On the homeward
way We descend the Jeppi on foot and meet with unexpected
difficulties
a mountain peak
of
PARTY
of us,
twenty
in
dreadful night on
Triumphant return
number including
213
214
TWENTY YEARS
We
IN
were
ROUMANIA
resume our
journey, but we knew that the sun would not wait
for us, so the order to march was at last reluctantly
merrily
round.
loth
to
To
may
it
We
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
215
from
spread out
before one's eyes that province so long coveted
by the Roumanians, which they have now justly
secured for their own.
After a slight refreshment, for which the keen
valleys, lakes,
is
Again one of
much.
When
would be
satisfied
TWENTY YEARS
216
IN
ROUMANIA
As
After
thanks to
many
us,
and
by another
feet
some of
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
217
broken limb.
Our
relief
away
218
TWENTY YEARS
the Ark
two by two,
IN
ROUMANIA
in this case
a lady and a
gentleman together.
maintained between each couple, as the danger from
displaced boulders was great. It was a horribly
difficult and a really dangerous descent, and it took
a long time for us all to reach the head of the Jeppi
But so far from our troubles being over,
in safety.
The
it seemed as though they had only just begun.
darkness was so great on the wooded mountain that
it would have been highly dangerous to even attempt
The
to continue our way without more guides.
moon was just at the full, but no ray of light penetrated the thick foliage by which we were surrounded.
To add to our troubles, one of the ladies of the party
use of her limbs through sheer fright she
In this
literally not stand on her feet.
one
it
was
decided
that
of
our
dilemma
guides
should descend to Poiana "fapuliu, the nearest
Our
village, and send up more guides and a horse.
lost the
could
was
far
success.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
219
happened.
arrived safe
But none
and sound
did,
and eventually we
all
bonfires
TWENTY YEARS
220
IN
ROUMANIA
who came
guide
amount
of blame,
it
Jeppi.
"
The Man," I shall briefly relate the
the way, means
legend connected with it. It appears that a shepherd called Marco had the temerity to aspire to the
hand of his master's daughter. As he was a good,
faithful fellow, and the daughter herself favoured
his suit, the master agreed to give his consent to
the marriage on condition that the shepherd would
ascend the Omul and there spend the winter. The
shepherd at once consented, and at the beginning
of winter he made all his preparations for a long
absence. He left his flocks in the care of his friends
in Sinaia, then put into his knapsack some maize,
When all his
cheese, and a few bottles of tuica.
were
he
went
to
the
made,
arrangements
monastery
to burn a candle to St Dimitri and to kiss the holy
ikons, after which he set out to make the ascent of
the Omul, accompanied only by his dog. As he
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
221
made his
A cross was
erected to his
memory,
and anyone who takes the trouble to ascend the
grave.
Omul may
still
it.
CHAPTER XXIX
Cholera in Russia I hurry back to Roumania I am put in quarantine on the frontier and liberally disinfected The soldier guard
aims his gun at me My Jewish room-mate and her obtrusive
"
"
Patience
whilst he prays and expechusband She plays
and
release
send a military expedition in
torates I get my
Her
tries to escape from Russia
search of a mirror Miss R
companion, a German engineer, develops cholera The terrified
peasants place
dies
She
finds,
AS
is
snow-white.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
223
We
fared
still
worse.
"
Patience."
He
room, with a
224
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
a praying
shawl, recited the prayers for the day, every now
and then turning to expectorate, and most probably
The
calling down blessings on the Christians.
husband was lodged in an adjacent room with another
traveller, but was constantly coming in to ours to
visit his wife.
One morning he came at such an
I was
early hour that I had not finished dressing.
well
as
as
but
controlled
I
could.
myself
very angry,
After a few minutes he went back to his own apartment to fetch something, only to return almost
But I had been quicker than he. In
directly.
those few moments I had barricaded the door.
His disgust was great when he found he could not
get in, and quite plainly I could see his form silhouetted on the white window-blind as he took
his shoulders in lieu of
TWENTY YEARS
after five days' quarantine.
IN
ROUMANIA
Soldiers
225
accompanied us
and saw us
to the station,
On one
became
from
it.
They had
first village
when
15
TWENTY YEARS
226
the
German
cholera.
IN
ROUMANIA
his
ill,
sick
companion.
The
latter
knew a
little
race,
to assist her
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
227
Two
succeeded
one
district
every year.
CHAPTER XXX
The beggars
of Bucarest
Was it inspired by
Where the beggars spend
boots
life
in the
BEGGARS
East and Roumania being considered the end
;
is
228
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
229
little
TWENTY YEARS
230
one
feels
that one
is
IN
ROUMANIA
hungry (if
hungry they be) and yet not giving them money to
waste on other things.
Roumanians are very charitable, and will seldom
That is probably why there are
refuse a beggar.
so many. As they are not used to refusals, they are
very insistent, and sometimes I have had a beggar
me
follow
"
Do
please give
me
a pair of boots."
Seeing that
feet, I
"
nickel coin
by the
priests
and the
beggars.
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
231
light amber
effective are
Scarcely less
Pitesti,
232
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
next
season.
The
exhibition that
was held
in Bucarest
some
fruit,
of showing their wares, and Germany was represented by a display of automatic pianos.
TWENTY YEARS
sizes
IN
ROUMANIA
wall.
233
The
neat, clean appearance.
also
had
undergone a
prisoners
making altogether a
clothing
of the
all
testified to
prisoners.
The grounds
TWENTY YEARS
234
ROUMANIA
IN
"
It
noon
after-
of the string
finally closed it
was
THE
Moi
national
it
exhibition,
and that
many
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
235
this
stirring time.
a great national
festival, and, attired
gay costumes, and
with
boughs of green,
driving in ox-waggons canopied
they add much to the picturesqueness of these
Mos,i
in their
is
varied scenes.
"
did
"
number
a
of stall-holders.
fair
(if it
breadless.
when
now
acknowledge that the Turkish stalls parThe beautifully fine emticularly attracted me.
with
small
broidery,
squares worked in gold and
I
TWENTY YEARS
236
IN ROUMANIA
the
quaintly
decorated
pipes
man
with beaded
articles of Otto-
fairs
"
"
fairings
are
held at
them wearing
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
237
policeman put him into the cab and drove with him
to the nearest big hotel, where the mystery was
"
"
But," the gentleman asked me, why
explained.
did they not understand ? Promenade is the same
word in English as in French, and dock is dock."
A lady visited London with her husband for the
first time.
They had rooms at the Hotel Cecil, and
were very much interested in seeing the sights, but
"
the complaint of the lady was,
Oh, the shops are
not up to much there was absolutely nothing to
buy." The remark rather staggered me for a
moment then I ventured to name some of the big
shops in Oxford Street and Regent Street. It was
;
the
238
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
the
traffic
of us."
I pleaded guilty
re-
CHAPTER XXXI
Roumania's early history Michael the Brave Stephen the Great
A Spartan mother Brancovan's noble efforts bring about his
end Oppression promotes union Greek extortion Russia
and Turkey The Westernising of Roumania The Treaty of
Paris The European Commission The new State of Roumania
Prince Cuza and his fall The siege of Plevna Roumania's
present aims.
HAD
before I
country and
its
people.
to obtain,
very
difficult
came
to
know and
owe
it
to
them to
and
of our allies
Indeed,
it
is
necessary to
know something
of the
Roumania's
It is a
participation in the war.
country with a future full of hope and promise, and
it deserves to be better known than it is.
ancient
is
certainly
no
240
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
known
of the country,
historical
two
principalities of
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
241
to his
own
Upon
his
demand
for
conquered.
his followers to
Constantine Brancovan, Prince of Wallachia, considerably furthered the internal well-being of the
country, which had never been so prosperous as
But
this
prosperity, becoming
at Constantinople, only increased the exactions of the Turks.
Notwithstanding that all the
known
system.
Greeks, the
242
TWENTY YEARS
them emigrated.
IN
ROUMANIA
degrees the two principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia came to recognise the
need for a closer union in face of the common foe.
of
By
recommenced
to withdraw.
was
to Western
of the rebellion
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
243
The
sities.
To
this fact
progress of
Balkan States.
I
may
one
in
rapid
other
is
States. 1
The Treaty
upon
European Commission was formed to revise
the existing laws and statutes, taking at the same
protecting eye
fore a
time into consideration the opinions of the representative councils of the country.
At the first sitting the councils voted unanimously for the union of the two principalities in a
single state under the name of Roumania, to be
governed by a foreign prince from one of the reigning houses of Europe.
To this the European Commission, recognising
This view does not, however, by any means meet with general
acceptance. In conversation recently with a highly -placed Roumanian of scholarly attainments, this gentleman argued convincingly
that Roumania is, beyond doubt, one of the Balkan States. Every
great movement in the Balkans, he pointed out, has originated in
Roumania, or has at least been participated in by that country.
1
244
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
that union is strength, declined to agree, deciding that the principalities should continue to be
governed by their own princes. But the Roumanians were too clever for the Commission, and suc-
and Jassy.
Later on he
duct increased his unpopularity. The leading statesmen thereupon conspired to dethrone him. The
palace was quietly entered one night, the Prince
awakened out of sleep and informed of their deThere was no use protesting. He allowed
cision.
himself to be escorted to the frontier, then proceeded
to Italy, where he died some years later. His
widow returned to Roumania, and died there only
a few years ago.
So secretly had the plans of Prince Cuza's deposal been carried out that very few people were
aware of what had happened till next morning,
when the news ran like wildfire through the capital.
How his successor was appointed has been told in
the romantic story of the advent of King Carol.
The siege of Plevna took place during the RussoTurkish War of 1877. The Russians sustained
several defeats at the hands of the Turks, and the
outlook for them was decidedly gloomy, when the
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
245
it
as the
did),
Carol
men
of our
little
efficient leadership
army
"
of Prince
victory.
As Bessarabia
this,
and
CHAPTER XXXII
Turkish influence on Roumanian mind and manners The origin of
the people Clearly descended from the Romans of Trajan's
day Collateral evidence of Latin origin in the language
Pride of race Roumanian literature.
A LTHOUGH
JLJL
harem was
Roumanian women of that time
were brought up in a similar fashion. Of course,
write, so all fear of intrigue outside the
thus avoided.
246
TWENTY YEARS
Roumanian
IN
ROUMANIA
day are
247
also highly
educated.
is
or even a
young
girl
whom
stout,
and
is
that there
is
as clear as noonday.
They
are,
a very mixed race. That fact is made sufficiently clear in the sketch I have given of the history
of the country.
Nations and tribes have overrun
their land times innumerable, as other nations and
selves,
248
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
characteristics
races
now
well
blended
Trajan's day.
is
own
language.
There
is
also
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
249
the feelings of others they evince a delicacy of perception which I have never seen equalled in any
other people.
An Italian diplomat once told me that he did not
should necessitate
his leaving Bucarest, and I could well understand
lest it
his feelings.
the
250
TWENTY YEARS
IN
who have
ROUMANIA
utilised it in their
CHAPTER XXXIII
CONCLUSION
war
Hungary's attempt to
Sympathy of the Motherland
"
"
The new boundaries of Roumania
Awake, Roumania
Room for her people " The Little Entente " Safeguarding the
Roumania's
Magyarise
in
object
the
Transylvania
!
peace of Europe.
I should think,
EVERYONE,
by now of the aims
to intervene in
To
regain Tran-
of the
From
that
it is
Roumanians
251
true, faithfully
religion,
in the country,
and
but
252
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
How
obliged
to
Roumania
flee
for fear
over-free speech
When
often
was
in Bucarest I
of a professor
obliged to leave everything
and depart,
had
of Hungarians and
as he
number
of years
had to pass
(five, I
think) before
preserve
TWENTY YEARS
ROUMANIA
IN
253
singing
mania
("
Awake, Rou-
efforts
I
still
began to write
raging and
this
country in which so
It
is
much of my
know that
reassuring to
life
was spent.
in the
new maps
of
some
Roumanian people
Many
remain in Roumania.
254
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
Roumania
TWENTY YEARS
IN
ROUMANIA
255
three
defeated
countries, Bulgaria,
bound to
arise
CO., LTD.,
EDINBURGH.
STAMPED BELOW
30
JUN 8
1933
1934
MRU1989
NOV 11 1934
MJIU
APR
OISWWU
4 "89
1940
2^
AUG 3C
MAY
aa
REG O LD
MAR
1 8 1962
LD
21-50m-l,'33
U.C.
BERKELEY LIBRARIES
CDOb?bbObl
830223