Warpi

ng your Mini Card / Tablet Loom

http://www.rocknbead.com/wshed/cardwarppics.htm
Welcome to our virtual classroom. Over the last few years we have taught weaving
classes on several of the looms we build and developed new looms to meet the requests
of our students as well as a style of teaching different from most. I am the first to admit
there are weavers with skills that surpass my own, many of which are my own students,
the reward of a pure teacher.
My skill and interest is in loomwrighting, and weaving is a secondary result of this
desire to work with wood and create the tools of the weaver. My primary difference in
teaching probably comes from this different point of view as I emphasize technique in
using the tools of the weaver and teach the students how the looms work as the first step
in becoming a weaver.
Some of the other instructors that I have observed gear classes to follow rigid printed
patterns in hand outs and use the class to demonstrate their skill. They sometimes forget
the students are not yet peers in their subject and can leave a part of the class confused
or frustrated. I teach without pre-done patterns and work with each group as individuals.
This allows me to adjust the class progression, with the goal being each student able to
recreate the work done in the class at a later time with the skills learned.
Items needed for this class include:
* Loom appropriate for card weavingshown in this class is our Mini-Card Loom with a five foot warping length,
Other types of looms can be used with these directions such as;

our full size Card Loom 15 feet

inkle looms with a warp length of over 9 feet due to card clearance
backstrap looms
* Weaving shuttle or beater with separate thread winder for weft
* 10 weaving cards
* Two balls each of two colors of threadfor our Mini-Card loom cut each ball of thread twenty yards long (60 feet), for other looms
cut the treads long enough to run the warp path of the loom to be used 11 times to give
some extra for take up and tying at the end of the warping process
* Scissors

Gather all the supplies for warping the loom: Mini-Card Loom with the tension bar set
where shown or 1/4 set back from highest tension setting if using a different loom, shuttle,
cards and thread before you begin.

Take the 10 cards and make sure they are all facing the same way and aligned the same.
I use cards that are lettered in the corners as shown, a-b-c-d in a clock wise fashion if your
cards differ from this note the difference for adjustment to the directions given.

To start the warping process you must thread the warp thru the cards to do this pick up
the entire book of cards at one time. Take the first color and feed the tail from one ball
thru the hole labeled "A" and the other tail thru the hole labeled "B". Take the second
color and do the same thing in the "C" and "D" holes. Make sure all threads go thru the
cards in the same direction from the front of the cards to the back.

Gather all four tails together at the back of the cards and tie a slip knot to bundle all your
warp threads together, hook the knotted end on the tension knob on the back side of your
loom with the tension set as described above. This is only a temporary anchor point while
warping and will be removed prior to the weaving process.

At this point bring your warp threads under the loom and around the front two pegs to
begin warping the loom.

In the photo you can see where you will be dropping the cards during the warping process,
later this is the working area where you will be turning the cards and weaving with the shuttle.
As you are warping the loom and going around the pegs make sure to follow the path shown
in the photos, once you have the first full warp path on the loom it is easy to follow the same
pattern.

While in the working area drop the first card off the back of your deck on the way to the
back of the loom. At the same time the rest of the deck remains in the hand as you will
now follow the warping path of the loom.

Continue your threads around the top three pegs at the back of the loom. By taking your
threads around the front two, and back three pegs you have created an expanded area
for turning your cards and working your shuttle. The second advantage to this design is
that while weaving and turning the cards extra tension is created and is distributed over
five pegs, it allows the use of lighter weight material in construction without compromising
on quality.

After going around the back three pegs you will go around the tension peg. As you are
warping keep your tension consistent, firm not tight as this will keep the tension equal
through the warping process. Start with your tension peg at the site shown in the picture
(mentioned above). This allows for take up as the weaving progresses, starting at this
spot gives you room to tighten the warp when you are ready to weave without over tightening.

From the tension peg go around the next open peg down on the back of the loom. Then
forward and around the bottom middle peg and then to the back of the loom and around
the last peg on the back corner of the loom. Then bring all the threads and cards back to
the front of the loom to where you began.
You have just completed your first and hardest warp path around the loom. After this you
will just follow the same path and it is very easy to spot a mistake if you look straight into
the loom as seen in the photos at the completion of every warp path. No group of threads
should cross any other or deviate from this pattern.

As you start the second pass drop the next card off the back of your deck and continue
around the warp path by following the threads laid down in the previous pass. Continue in
this manner until all cards have been dropped in place.

After you drop your final card from the deck continue around the loom until you reach the
front of the loom, this is a good time to double check your warp paths to make sure all
threads are following the right path. If all looks good it is time to tie off the warp and get
ready to weave.

Cut the original anchoring knot off the tensioning nut making sure to remove stray threads
as the nut will now be used for tension purposes.

Bring the four threads from the start of the warp and the four tails from the end of the warp
to the front of the loom and using a square knot tie all threads together, keeping the tension
on these the same as you have maintained thru the warping process.

Cut off the excess tail after the knot is secured about 1/2 inch long to keep it from untying.

Start wrapping your shuttle with your weft thread, it can be either of the colors that were
used during the warping process.

It is hard to guess the exact amount of thread required on the shuttle. A little extra will not
hurt but you can always add if you come up short. The amount shown above is more than
enough to finish this project.

http://www.palmerlooms.com/palmerlooms7ab.html

Warping your Mini Card / Tablet Loom

If you have come to this page from anywhere but page one please see Page 1
We have repeated the last two steps from page one just as a reminder.

Start wrapping your shuttle with your weft thread, it can be either of the colors that were
used during the warping process.

It is hard to guess the exact amount of thread required on the shuttle. A little extra will not
hurt but you can always add if you come up short. The amount shown above is more than
enough to finish this project.

To start weaving on your loom pass the shuttle through the shed from right to left, leaving
about a four inch tail.

Grip all cards with one hand and begin your 1/4 turn of the cards rotating away from yourself.

This is half way through the 1/4 turn rotation so you can see the movement.

This is the completion of the rotation. In the photo you can see that the warp threads to
the left of your cards seem to be jumbled. The next step will clear the threads.

Slide the entire book of cards toward yourself.

Then away from yourself and this will clear your shed for your next shuttle pass.

Bring your shuttle back through the shed from left to right, leaving the shuttle rest in the shed.

With the shuttle resting in the shed, take the tail through the shed from right to left.

Bring your shuttle on through the shed and holding the shuttle in your right hand and the
tail in your left hand pull gently but firmly on both to close up your weave.

You will notice when you close up your weave, that all of your threads were not captured
in the first two passes of your shuttle. This is normal, all threads will not be captured until
the fourth pass of your shuttle.

Once again rotate your book of cards 1/4 turn away from yourself.

Pull the cards towards yourself to clear the shed. Then push them forward again for
weaving room.

Place the shuttle into the shed and beat your previous stitches down to an even line.
Over time you will get a feel for how much pressure to apply.

After beating the stitch continue through the shed right to left with your shuttle.

Be sure to pull your weft thread snug after each shuttle pass.

Rotate your cards another 1/4 turn away from yourself. Once again you can see the shed
after turning the cards needs to be cleared by sliding the cards towards yourself then away.

Pass the shuttle from left to right, then rotate your cards another 1/4 turn away from yourself.

This is the completion of the first full rotation of your cards, and they are resting in the
original position. Continue doing the 1/4 turn rotations for 2 more complete rounds
away from yourself.

This is how your weaving should appear after 3 full rotations. Each full rotation brings the
bottom color to the top.

At the top of your loom you will notice some twisting to your warp threads. This is normal,
the easiest way to deal with this twisting is to reverse your card rotation for the next 3
rotations. If you continue to rotate away from yourself you will have to push the twist down
around the pegs to keep your weaving area clear.

After reversing your weave for 3 full rotations you will notice that the twist at the top of
your loom has been removed. In some patterns you will not be able to remove the twist

by reversing.
Now that you understand the loom and the threads, we can move on to making some
different patterns. We will be using the loom as it is now set up to show the versatility of
card weaving.

For the first pattern change: working the cards from right to left, leave the first card as
shown. Here we rotated only the second card 1/4 turn so that D is in the upper left corner,
then slide it behind the first card making a new book.

The third card rotates a full 1/2 turn so that C is in the upper left corner as shown then
slide it into place in the new book.

For the fourth card you can turn it 1/4 turn towards yourself so that B is in the upper left
corner. Then slide it into place in the new book. Continue rotating the cards one at a time
until your upper left corner reads: ADCBADCBAD

Weave as shown before for 3 full rotations away and 3 full rotations towards yourself.

Examine both the top and the bottom of your weave. We are weaving in a single faced
style, which means that your weave will have a top and bottom that are slightly different
in appearance. One side will look smooth and have even looking edges to the pattern
and the other side will appear somewhat choppy, you will still be able to see the pattern
clearly it will just look different.

Before you can weave any further we need to advance the warp. Holding the tension
peg with one hand loosen the nut with the other and push the peg away from yourself, to
create slack in your warp threads.

Gripping the woven area with your left hand and the next set of threads down with your
right hand, pull gently with your left while pushing away with your right.

This motion will bring the woven area down around the bottom of the front pegs and provide
fresh warp threads for weaving.

Do not take the woven area beyond the front top peg as this will create a gap in your
weaving. Leave about 1/2 inch beyond the loom frame.

Once again loosen the nut on the tension peg and pull the peg and nut gently but firmly
towards yourself. Be sure to check to make sure that none of your warp threads have
gotten between the peg and your loom, that they are all riding on the tension peg itself.
Tighten the nut and you are ready to start weaving.

For your next pattern change: slightly separate the five cards on the right from the five
cards on the left, without changing the sequence of the cards.

Weave as shown before except this time you will be turning the cards as though they are
two separate books. Turn the book on your left towards yourself and the book on the right
away from yourself, for 3 full rotations.

Then reverse for 3 full rotations, left book away and right book towards yourself.

For your next pattern change: the cards will be one book again, your upper left corner
should read: AACCAACCAA

Weave as shown before for 3 full rotations away and 3 full rotations towards yourself.

Continue weaving and advancing, practicing the different patterns as shown until you
have reached the point where you can no longer turn the cards or fit your shuttle through
the shed.

Cut your weft thread about 4 inches from your warp threads, tie this tail to the outside
warp thread.

Pull your cards down toward your weaving, cut the warp on the high side of the cards.
This will leave you loose threads at either end of your weaving to use as fringe.

Cut the upper threads then the bottom threads.

You can now remove your book of cards Save cards for future use.

Remove your weaving from the loom, you have just completed your first card weaving
project. You can trim your fringe or leave it long.

Have a question? feel free to e-mail us for a little extra help.

A BETTER Loom for Card Weaving

Summer 2014
After using my Very Simple Loom for years Don
Betterley, and I revised the design and he built a
BETTER Loom. Gone are the destructive C-clamps!
Instead we have an excellent clamping mechanism, a
beautiful red birch hardwood base, and fancy turquoise
inlay. And that's just the front piece. The chair in the
back is replaced by a warp beam which also serves as
warp spreader.

There are several ways to hold the weaving in place. Clips, a knitting needle or a pen work equally well.

Home ... Guides

Warping Your Mini Inkle Loom

http://www.palmerlooms.com/palmerlooms7.html
This guide is designed and laid out for warping and weaving on the Palmer Mini
Inkle Loom, can also be used as a general guide for our other sizes of inkle looms.
These directions are easily adaptable to other brands of inkle looms.
These are the same basic directions I use when teaching classes at SCA events,
Renaissance Faires, LARP, and other classroom opportunities. Contact me for
information on having a class at your school or event.
Pre make your heddles using a good quality upholstery thread or waxed linen, as
these materials will allow your warp threads to move easily. Avoid wool or other
fuzzy type threads as they cause knotting and felting. The shuttle that came with
your Palmer Loom is also your gauge for making your heddles. Your heddles are
re-usable so be sure not to throw them away when you are done with your project.
These heddle directions are specific to our loom design, and may not work with
other looms due to design differences.

To begin making your heddles, wrap your thread around your shuttle length wise,
one round for each heddle needed.
For this particular pattern you will need 10 heddles.

When you have all your rounds on the shuttle, cut across the loops at one end to
free the individual lengths of the heddle threads.

Tie each individual thread around the shuttle the short direction, using a square
knot, securing with a third knot. A square knot is made by tying right over left then
left over right, the third securing will be right over left.

Continue tying the heddle threads around the shuttle until all threads are used.
Then clip the ends to avoid tangling, but not too close, leave about 1/4 inch long
tails. After removing the heddles from the shuttle you can use a single drop of
super glue on each knot to set the knots.

The pattern we will be working with here is a basic ladder pattern, consisting of
straight line sides and alternating bars in the middle. Choose two contrasting
colors of standard cotton crochet thread, one light and one dark. Pre load your
heddles onto your thread, 2 heddles on the dark and 8 heddles on the light.
Tie a slip knot with both strands together.

Set your tension peg about 1/4 of the way from the front end of the slot. On the
classroom model use the second tension hole.

Attach the slip knot around your tension peg nut, (on the classroom model just slip it
on the tension peg), then bring your threads around the bottom to the front peg on
the working side of your loom. The pattern we are making today is a simple bar or
ladder pattern.

Take your first heddle on your dark thread and attach to the heddle peg as shown,
position the heddle knot on the bottom side of the peg. The second heddle on your
dark thread will be the last heddle placed on loom, and you can just slide this heddle
down the thread as you warp the loom to keep it out of your way until needed.

Take your dark thread over the top of the first top peg and around the rear top peg.

After going around the rear top peg go down to the tension peg and around, be sure
to stay below the heddle peg and always go around your pegs from top to bottom.

After going around the tension peg go back up to the middle rear peg and around.

Then go down to your center peg and around, then to the bottom rear peg and
around to the front peg, as seen in picture. This is your warping path for all odd
numbered (heddle, 1 - 3 - 5 - etc.) threads. Remember to always go around your
pegs from top to bottom.

Still working with your dark thread, come around the front peg and go straight to
the rear top peg. At this point your thread should be between the two pegs on
your front arm.

From the rear top peg continue on the same path as the first thread. This is your
warping path for all even numbered (2 - 4 - 6 - etc.) threads. These two threads will
determine the color of the edge of your weaving. Creating a straight line of solid
color. This is also the color thread you will use to fill your shuttle.

Take your first heddle on your light thread and attach to the heddle peg as shown,
position the heddle knot on the bottom side of the peg. The other heddles on your
light thread will be placed on loom as needed, and you can just slide these heddles
down the thread as you warp the loom to keep them out of your way until needed.

This is your warping path for all odd numbered (heddle, 1 - 3 - 5 - etc.) threads.
Remember to always go around your pegs from top to bottom.

Still working with your light thread, come around the front peg and go straight to the
rear top peg. At this point your thread should be between the two pegs on your front
arm. This is your warping path for all even numbered (2 - 4 - 6 - etc.) threads.

These two threads will determine the color of the outer stripe for your ladder.
Creating a straight line of solid color.

The fifth thread will be a light with heddle, follow the odd warping pattern.

The sixth thread dark no heddle, follow the even warping pattern. Alternating the
threads in this manner allows you to have the alternating bar colors.

Continue adding odd and even threads as above until you have only one heddle on
each color of thread.

Add the last light thread with heddle.

Add one more light thread no heddle.

Add the last dark thread with heddle.

Add the last dark thread no heddle, this is the end of adding thread, to your warp.

Your loom should look like the picture above.

Remove the slip knot from the tension nut or peg and tie off the first 2 threads with
the last 2 threads.

Be sure not to tie the threads to the peg, use a secure knot, then trim the
excess thread.

Your loom warped and ready to weave.

Fill your shuttle with the dark thread, start with the end of your thread through the
hole in the shuttle. Wrap a good amount of thread on the shuttle, the amount will
vary with the size of thread used. You can always add more if needed.

To change your shed reach with your left hand behind the front arm and either lift
or push down on the even numbered threads. In the pictures above you can see
the two different positions for the shed. On the left is the shed above the odd
numbered threads and the right shows the shed below the odd numbered threads.

Before you start to weave you will need to check your tension. The easiest way is
to change your shed, if you get a clean color change your tension is good. Your
outside edges should remain dark with the middle threads going from all light to a
column of light with dark centers. Your tension should be good at this point, if not
you can re-adjust by loosening the nut and moving the tension peg towards the
front of the loom.
(For the classroom model just move your tension peg to the first hole.)

Start by lifting the even threads with your left hand, going point first insert your
shuttle into the shed with your right hand, once your shuttle is in the shed you
can remove your left hand, and slide the shuttle down towards the front peg.
Do not go beyond the frame of the loom with your shuttle. Now pull your shuttle
through leaving a 3 inch tail of thread on the right hand side of the loom.

Next, push down on the even threads with your right hand and going point first
insert your shuttle once again into the shed with your left hand, once your shuttle
is in the shed you can remove your right hand, and slide the shuttle down towards
the front peg until it meets the previous stitch.
Leave your shuttle in place at this time.

Without removing the shuttle keep the shed open and pass the tail you left on the
previous stitch back through the shed.

Pull your shuttle through. Grasp the loose thread and the thread on the shuttle and
pull gently in opposite directions, until all your center threads are showing your light
color. This secures your tail and it can now be trimmed off, leaving about 1/2 inch.

Your next stitch will be right to left. Lift the shed with your left hand and insert your
shuttle point first through the shed. Slide the shuttle down to meet your previous
stitch making a straight bar. This is where you will beat down on the weaving to
tighten and straighten your previous stitches, you will do this with each shuttle throw.
Your next stitch will be left to right. Push down the shed with your right hand and
insert your shuttle point first through the shed. Slide the shuttle down to meet your
previous stitch making a straight bar. This is where you will beat down on the
weaving to tighten and straighten your previous stitches, you will do this with each
shuttle throw.

Repeat these two steps alternating right and left, until you reach a point where you
can no longer make a shed for the shuttle to fit through.

Leaving your shuttle in the open shed, loosen your tension nut and move the peg
slightly to the rear, until the threads loosen, tighten the peg.

Grasping the finished part of your weaving in your left hand and the loose threads
right below in your right hand, pull down with the left hand while pushing up with
the right hand, this should move your work around the loom.

Move your finished weaving down to the top of the loom frame as shown on the left,
then push it back up about 1/4 inch to stand your heddles back up as shown on the
right, then loosen your tension nut and slide the peg towards the front of the loom
until the threads are snug, then tighten the nut.

Continue weaving and advancing your work until you can no longer make a shed

and throw your shuttle.

Now for the traumatic part, place your scissors above the heddles between the two
pegs as shown. Cut all the warp threads to release your band from the loom. Be
sure to cut the weft thread loose as well. Save your heddles as you will reuse them
next time.

Your finished inkle band and your loom ready to be warped with your next project.
Now that you are ready here are a few simple patterns.

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