Voyager Lace Stole &

Mitts

The young women emigrants of more

than a century ago stepped on a ship and
began their voyage to a new home in
Canada. They brought with them their
skills as knitters and spinners and the
willingness to use those skills to clothe
their families. Despite the need for
utility items of clothing, they
incorporated creativity, skill and beauty
into the garments needed for warmth in
the cold Canadian winters.
The Voyager Lace Stole was designed
by two modern wilderness knitters with
thoughts of those women of the
Canadian wilderness long ago. It was
adapted from Mitten, Pattern #11, found
in Home Work, a Choice Collection of
Useful Designs for Crochet and Knitting
Needle.(ii)
The mitten pattern, which was knit in the
round, was modified to knit flat. The
heart shape motif for the body of the
stole is used for the edging and gives the
stole a balanced and wavy edge.
Shawl Sizes: (size medium pictured)

by Shui Kuen Kozinski

and Benne Ferrell
"Those who are not already able to knit a
sock or a mitt, will find some kind
neighbor ready and willing to teach
them, it will be nice work on the voyage
outEvery young woman is prized in
this country according to her
usefulnessIn the new country to which
they are going, knowledge of the simple
art of knitting must form one of the
occupations of the femaleswho reside
in the agricultural portion of the
colony."(i)

Small: 38 cm (15") x 152 cm (60")

(5 x 13 + 8 = 73 st)
Medium : 43 cm (18") x 152 cm (60")
(7 x 13 + 8 = 99 st)
Large: 52 cm (21") x 152 cm (60")
(9 x 13 + 8 = 125 st)
Mitt Sizes: Small, medium, large approximately 15 cm (6"), 18 cm (7"),
20 cm (8") in circumference. The lace
pattern is very stretchy, depending on
blocking. You may wish to make one
size smaller than normal glove or mitt
size.

Materials:
- Shawl: 800, 900, 1100 m (872, 981,
1199 yards) of fingering weight yarn
(27-29 sts to 10 cm/ 4").
- Mitts: 200 m (218 yards) of fingering
weight yarn (27-29 sts to 10 cm/ 4").
- 3.75 mm (US 5) straight or circular
needle for shawl, OR SIZE NEEDED
TO OBTAIN GAUGE
- 2.75mm (US 2) double point needles
for mitts, OR SIZE NEEDED TO
OBTAIN GAUGE
- stitch markers
Gauge Shawl:
21-22 st/ 4" gauge is not critical
Gauge Mitts:
9 sts = 1 inch over pattern stitches
unstretched

SHAWL
Repeat rows 1-10 until desired length.
For medium size stole as shown, repeat
rows 1-10 44 times
Notes:
1) Stole is knitted from end to end with
scalloped picot edgings.
2) For scalloped picot edging, begin with
provisional cast on. Wind 10 yards of
stole yarn into a small ball, do not break
yarn. This ball will be used later for the
picot edging on the first end (bottom
end).
3) Every row starts with a slip stitch. On
the right side rows (rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9).
Slip 1 purlwise. On the wrong side rows
(rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10), slip 1 knitwise
4) Always count the row stitches
because each row has a different stitch
count.
6) YO before purl wrap yarn around
needle purlwise

7) Lace stitch pattern is a multiple of

(13+8)
8) Stitch count is at end of rows
(large,medium,small)
9) If desired, place markers at beginning
and end of stitch repeat sequence. These
markers will remain in same position
throughout stole pattern.
10) Stitch repeat pattern is in bold type
in written instructions.
11) Odd numbered rows on chart are
knit from right to left. Even numbered
rows are knit from left to right.
12) Odd numbered rows are right side
rows, even numbered rows are wrong
side rows.
Instructions:
Cast on: using provisional cast on, with
contrast color waste yarn and crochet
hook, chain 73 (99, 125). Using shawl
yarn with small ball hanging as the tail,
pick up and knit 73 (99, 125) sts in the
bumps on the backside of the chains
(73, 99, 125) sts.
The first end (bottom end) edging:
Cast on 73 (small), 99 (medium), 125
(large) sts.
Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges)
Pattern Rows:
From * to * is one pattern repeat. Work
size small - 5 repeats, medium - 7
repeats, large - 9 repeats
Row 1: Sl 1, *(K4, K2tog, P2, K3, P2)* ,
K4, K2tog, P1 - (67, 91, 115 st)
Row 2: Sl 1, P2tog, P3, *(K2, P1, YO*,
P1, YO*, P1, K2, P2tog, P3)* , K1 - (71,
97, 121 st)
Row 3: Sl 1, *(K2, K2tog, P2, K5, P2)* ,

K2, K2tog, P1 - (65, 89, 113 st)

Row 4: Sl 1, P2tog, P1, *(K2, P2, YO*,
P1, YO*, P2, K2, P2tog, P1)* , K1 - (69,
95, 119 st)
Row 5: Sl 1, *(YO, K2tog, YO*, P2,
K5, K2tog, P2)* , YO, K2tog, YO, P1 (70, 96, 120 st)
Row 6: Sl 1, P3, *(K2, P2tog, P4, K2,
P3)* , K1 - (65, 89, 113 st)
Row 7: Sl 1, *(K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, P2,
K3, K2tog, P2)* , K1, YO, K1, YO, K1,
P1 - (72, 98, 122 st)
Row 8: Sl 1, P5, *(K2, P2tog, P2, K2,
P5)* , K1 - (67, 91, 115 st)
Row 9: Sl 1, *(K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, P2,
K1, K2tog, P2)* , K2, YO, K1, YO, K2,
P1 - (74, 100, 126 st)
Row 10: Sl 1, P2tog, P5, *(K2, YO*,
P2tog, YO, K2, P2tog, P5)* , K1 - (73,
99, 125 st)
Top end edging:
Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges) and bind
off all sts using picot bind off.
Picot bind-off: Insert the right-hand
needle into the first stitch on the lefthand (LH) needle, and knit a stitch but
do not slip the stitch off the left needle.
Slip the new stitch back onto the LH
needle, then make a second new stitch as
before. Cast off four stitches, and then
slip the remaining stitch back onto the
LH needle. Repeat along the row,
making two stitches and casting off four
each time.
The first end (bottom end) edging:
Slowly "unzip" crochet chain beginning
with last chain. Put 73 (99, 125) st onto
needle and using small ball wound at

beginning, work picot bind off same as

top end.
Finishing:
Weave in yarn ends. Soak the scarf in
warm water for 20 minutes. Roll in a
towel to remove excess water, spread out
on a flat surface, smooth into shape and
pin. Leave in place until thoroughly dry.
Trim yarn ends.

MITTS
Cast on 44 for small, 56 for medium, 64
stitches for large. Divide stitches evenly
on 3 needles. Place marker to indicate
beginning of round.
Cuff: (worked in the round)
Baby Cable Ribbing (iii)
Rnd 1 - *p2, k2*, rep between **s
around.
Rnds 2 & 3 - Rep round 1
Rnd 4 - (p2, RT) - 11, 14, 16 times
Rep rnds 1-4 six more times or until cuff
is 3 inches long, ending with rnd 2
Both Hands: (worked in the round)
Set up as follows:
Rnd 1:
Small - knit one row even - 44 sts
Medium - knit one row, decreasing 1 st 55 sts
Large - knit one row, increasing 2 sts
evenly - 66 sts
Rnd 2: *(k6, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2)* (4, 5,
6) times - 52, 65, 78 sts.
Start Voyager pattern
Rnd 1: *(k4, k2tog, p2, k3, p2)* (4, 5, 6
times) - 48, 60, 72 sts
Rnd 2: *(k3, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, k1, yo,
k1, p2)* - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 3: *(k2, k2tog, p2, k5, p2)* - 48,
60, 72 sts
Rnd 4: *(k1, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo,
k2, p2)* - 52, 65, 78 sts

Rnd 5: *(yo, k2tog, yo, p2, k5, k2tog,

p2)* - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 6: *(k3, p2, k4, k2tog, p2)* - 48,
60, 72 sts
Rnd 7: *(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p2, k3,
k2tog, p2)* - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 8: *(k5, p2, k2, k2tog, p2)* - 48,
60, 72 sts
Rnd 9: *(k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k1,
k2tog, p2)* - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 10: *(k5, k2tog, p2, yo, k2tog, yo,
p2)* - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 11-14: Repeat rnds 1-4 one more
time
Rnd 15: *(yo, k2tog, yo, p2, k5, k2tog,
p2)* , yo, k2tog, yo, p2, k5, k2tog, p1.
Transfer the last purl stitch on needle #3
to #1 needle.
Note: Total 15 rows before thumb
opening. Thumb section of mitt is knit
flat, not in round.
Turn and start the flat knitting. There is a
purl stitch at the beginning of the row on
the first needle and ends with a purl
stitch on the third needle. Repeats are in
bold text. Odd # rows are wrong side
(WS) rows, even # rows are right side
(RS) rows.
Row 1: (WS) k1, p2tog, p4, k2, p3, *(k2,
p2tog, p4, k2, p3)* , end k1 - 48, 60, 72
sts
Row 2: (RS) p1, *(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1,
p2, k3, k2tog, p2)* , k1, yo, k1, yo, k1,
p2, k3, k2tog, p1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 3: k1, p2tog, p2, k2, p5 *(k2,
p2tog, p2, k2, p5)* , end k1 - 48, 60, 72
sts
Row 4: p1 *(k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k1,
k2tog, p2)* , k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k1,
k2tog, p1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 5: k1, yo, p2tog, yo, k2, p2tog, p5,
*(k2, yo, p2tog, yo, k2, p2tog, p5)* ,
end k1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 6: p1, *(k4, k2tog, p2, k3, p2)* ,

k4, k2tog, p2, k3, p1 - 48, 60, 72 sts

Row 7: k1, p1, yo, p1, yo, p1, k2, p2tog,
p3, *(k2, p1, yo, p1, yo, p1, k2, p2tog,
p3)* , k1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 8: p1, *(k2, k2tog, p2, k5, p2)* ,
k2, k2tog, p2, k5, p1 - 48, 60, 72 sts
Row 9: k1, p2, yo, p1, yo, p2, k2, p2tog,
p1, *(k2, p2, yo, p1, yo, p2, k2, p2tog,
p1)* , k1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 10: p1, *(yo, k2tog, yo, p2, k5,
k2tog, p2)* , yo, k2tog, yo, p2, k5,
k2tog, p1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 11: k1, p2tog, p4, k2, p3, *(k2,
p2tog, p4, k2, p3)* , end k1 - 48, 60, 72
sts
Row 12: p1, *(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p2,
k3, k2tog, p2)* , k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p2,
k3, k2tog, p1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 13: k1, p2tog, p2, k2, p5, *(k2,
p2tog, p2, k2, p5)* , end k1 - 48, 60, 72
sts
Row 14: p1 *(k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k1,
k2tog, p2)* , k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k1,
k2tog, p1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Row 15: k1, yo, p2tog, yo, k2, p2tog, p5,
*(k2, yo, p2tog, yo, k2, p2tog, p5)* ,
end k1 - 52, 65, 78 sts
Top:
After row 15, joint and knit in round
again for palm
Note: Before starting to knit in round,
return the purl stitch from needle #1
back to needle #3
Rnd 1: p1 *(k4, k2tog, p2, k3, p2)* (4,
5, 6 times) - 48, 60, 72 sts (The last purl
stitch is from the first stitch of first
needle. Now the round is joined.)
Rnd 2: *(k3, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, k1,yo,
k1, p2)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 3: *(k2,k2tog, p2, k5, p2)* (4, 5, 6
times) - 48, 60, 72 sts
Rnd 4: *(k1, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo,

k2, p2)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 52, 65, 78 sts

Rnd 5: *(yo, k2tog, yo, p2, k5, k2tog,
p2)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 6: *(k3, p2, k4, k2tog, p2)* (4, 5, 6
times) - 48, 60, 72 sts
Rnd 7: *(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p2, k3,
k2tog, p2)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 52, 65, 78
sts
Rnd 8: *(k5, p2, k2, k2tog, p2)* (4, 5, 6
times) - 48, 60, 72 sts,
Rnd 9: *(k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k1,
k2tog, p2)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 52, 65, 78
sts
Rnd 10: *(k5, k2tog, p2, yo, k2tog, yo,
p2)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 52, 65, 78 sts
Rnd 11: *(k4, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog)*
(4, 5, 6 times) - 40, 50, 60 sts
(Rnd 11 narrows the top slightly by
working p2tog around instead of p2.)
Rnd 12: *(k3, k2tog, p1, k1, yo, k1, yo,
k1, p1)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 44, 55, 66 sts
Rnd 13: *(k2, k2tog, p1, k5, p1)* (4, 5,
6 times) - 40, 50, 60 sts
Rnd 14: *(k1, k2tog, p1, k2, yo, k1, yo,
k2, p1)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 44, 55, 66 sts
Rnd 15: *(yo, k2tog, yo, p1, k5, k2tog,
p1)* (4, 5, 6 times) - 44, 55, 66 sts
Start baby cable ribbing, work rounds 14 once and rounds 1-2 once more. AT
SAME TIME, work even for small
(increase 1 st for medium, decrease 2 sts
for large) - 44, 56, 64 sts.
Bind off in rib.
For the thumb opening, pick up 36
stitches, work 2x2 ribbing for 3 rows and
bind off in rib. To lengthen and narrow

thumb, pick up 36 stitches, decrease 4

stitches on rnd 1 of baby cable ribbing,
work for desired length and bind off in
rib.
Weave in yarn ends. Soak in warm water
with wool wash and block, smoothing
lace design to desired size, and blocking
for right and left hands.
Abbreviations:
K - knit, P - purl, YO - yarn over. To
work yarn over before a purl stitch wrap yarn around needle purlwise,
K2tog - knit 2 together, P2tog - purl 2
together, St - stitch, Rnd - round, RT right twist - k2tog, leave sts on left
needle and insert right needle from front
between two sts just knit together, knit
first stitch again and slip both sts from
needle together
Footnotes:
(i) Traill, Catherine Parr, The Emigrant
Housekeepers Guide to the Backwoods
of Canada, (Imprint: Toronto, 1857, 7th
Edition), pg. 178-179
(ii) Collected, corrected and arranged
by A.M., Home Work, A Choice
Collection of Useful Designs for Crochet
and Knitting Needle, (Rose Publishing
Co., Toronto, 1891), pg 355-356
(iii) Walker, Barbara G., A Treasury of
Knitting Patterns, originally published
by Charles Scribners and Sons, 1968,
Schoolhouse Press edition, copyright
1998, Barbara G. Walker, pg 40

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