Topic 1

Fabric weaves and

production of fabrics

Weave classification
Elementary weaves
The plain
Simple twills
Satin/sateens

Derivative weaves
Plain derivatives
Twill derivatives
Satin/sateen
derivatives

Combined weaves
honeycomb weaves
Bedford cord and
pique weaves
Distorted weaves

Compound weaves
Backed cloth weaves
Multilayer fabric
weaves
Pile fabric weaves
Jacquard weaves

Elementary weaves the plain

Elementary weaves - twills

Elementary weaves satin/sateens

How to draw the plain weave

There is only one plain weave, and it can
be expressed in one of the two ways
graphically:

How to draw twill weaves

Weave

specification (formula and step number)

Calculation of repeats
Allocate the area on design paper
Mark the first column of grids using formula, from bottom
upwards
Mark the next column:
a. use the step number to find the starting position
+ step number: move up
- step number: move down
b. apply formula to the current column

Repeat step 5) until the weave finishes

Example 1
Draw the weave diagram for the 2/2 Z twill
Weave repeat:
weft repeat: rp= sum of all figures in formula
warp repeat: re= rp/|S|, where S is the step number
rp= 2+2 =4;
re=4/1=4

Example 2
Draw the weave diagram for the 3/2 S twill
Weave repeat:
weft repeat: rp= sum of all figures in formula
warp repeat: re= rp/|S|, where S is the step number
rp= 3+2 =5;
re=5/|-1|=5

How to draw satin/sateen weaves

Weave specification:
a. the repeat: n-end
b. the move number M:
warpwise or weftwise
1 < M < (n-1)
M and n must not have common divisors

Allocate the n x n area on design paper

Mark the first column (warpwise move number
for example)
Locate the starting position using the move
number on the next column
Mark the current column
Repeat step 4) and 5) until the weave finishes

Example 1
Draw the weave for the 8-end satin with M=3
warpwise

More examples
7-end satin, M=2,
weftwise

5-end sateen, M=3,

warpwise

Derivative weaves
These are weave that are derived from the
elementary weaves
Types of derivatives
Plain derivatives
Twill derivatives
Satin/sateen derivatives

Plain derivatives
Basic methods
Extension
One direction rib weaves
Both directions hopsack weaves

Plain weave logic basket weaves

Plain derivative weaves

Rib weaves
Extension along warp warp rib
Extension along weft weft rib

Types of rib weaves

Same extension regular rib
Different extension irregular rib

Warp rib effect

Use the warp rib
weave
Thicker weft yarns,
lower weft density
Finer warp yarns,
higher warp density

Weft rib effect

Use the weft rib
weave
Thicker warp yarns,
lower warp density
Finer weft yarns,
higher weft density

Hopsack weaves
Plain weave extended in both directions
Regular and irregular

5 Oct. Next time drawing irregular hopsacks

Basket weaves plain weave logic

Inverse mirroring technique

Twill derivative weaves

Methods used
Reinforcing
Compounding
Step number
changing
Steeper/flatter twill
lines
Curved twill lines

Mirroring
Inverse mirroring
Entwining
Zigzaging
Shading

Reinforcing

Compounding

Step number changing

Shading

Mirroring waved and diamond

weaves
Construction of a waved weave:
1) choose a base twill: re, rp
2) calculate the new repeat:
horizontal:
R p = rp
Re = 2(pe-1)
pe is the peak position, OK with pe < re, pe = re, pe > re
vertical:

R e = re
Rp = 2(pp-1)
pp is the peak position, OK with pp < rp, pp = rp, pp > rp

diamond:

Re = 2(pe-1)
Rp = 2(pp-1)
3) allocate the design paper area according to Re, Rp
4) draw the base twill from the lower left-hand corner until the peth warp
end and/or the ppth pick
5) mirror the base weave in the due direction(s): use the last yarn as the
mirror

Simple examples

12 October 2010
More exercises on waved
weaves and then diamond
weaves

More examples

19 October 2010

Inverse mirroring herringbone

and diaper weaves
Construction of a waved weave:
1) choose a base twill: re, rp
2) calculate the new repeat:
horizontal:
R p = rp
Re = 2pe
pe is the peak position, OK with pe < re, pe = re, pe > re
vertical:

R e = re
Rp = 2pp
pp is the peak position, OK with pp < rp, pp = rp, pp > rp

diaper:

Re = 2pe
Rp = 2pp
3) allocate the design paper area according to Re, Rp
4) draw the base twill from the lower left-hand corner until the peth warp
end and/or the ppth pick
5) inverse mirror the base weave in the due direction(s): use the border
line of the last yarn as the mirror

Simple examples

More examples

See-saw (zig-zag) twills

Re

Rp
M
K
L

M - the move of the wave

K - point position of the wave
L - wave length

See-saw (zig-zag) twills

Construction of a see-saw weave:
- Specification
1) the base twill
2) point position K: K < re, K > re, K = r are all OK
3) move of the wave M: M K-3
- Calculation
1) L = 2(K-1) - M
2) Re and Rp (e.g., horizontal see-saw)
R p = rp
Re = LN
where
re/M
if integrally divided
N=
re
if not
N is the number of waves involved

Example
-Base twill: 1/2 3/2 Z
r e = rp = 8
- K = 6, M = 2
- L = 2(K-1) - M = 2(6-1) - 2 = 8
- N = re/M = 8/2 = 4

Rp = 8
Re = LN = 8 4 = 32

Entwined twills
Specification:
- base twill (even-sided)
- number of twill lines in a repeat - n
Calculation:
- Re = R = n re = n rp (R = n r)
- length of twill line: R/2
Construction:
let l = float length
- Z twill lines
1) 1st line from lower left-hand corner
2) develop Z line to the right, covering (n r)/2 ends
3) down l right l to start the next Z line
4) each line covers (n r)/2 ends
S twill lines
1) 1st line from the most right end, up l
2) develop S line to the left, covering (n r)/2 ends
3) upl right l to start the next S line
4) each line covers (n r)/2 ends

An example

An
entwined
twill

26 Oct. 2010
End of this topic

Satin/sateen derivative weaves

Weave, draft and lifting plan

Weave is the plan for warp and weft
interlacement
Draft is an indication of how warp ends are
drawing into the heald frames
Lifting plan is the instruction code that
controls the movement of the heald frames
Knowing two of these three, the third can
be worked out

Formation

Draft

Weave

Lifting
plan

Rules for draft

Each warp end can only be drawn into one
heald wire in one frame
Different warp ends must be drawn into
different heald frames

Correct

Correct

Wrong

Wrong

Types of draft - 1

Types of draft - 2

Types of draft - 3

Types of draft - 4

Demonstrate the creation of lifting

plan on board