Professional Documents
Culture Documents
COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
HALAS AND
PHOS
ENTERPRISES
ENGR. NOE ENRIQUEZ
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This Industry Paper will not be possible without first the wisdom and
knowledge of God who guided us as we start until we finish this paper. We
believe that we cannot do this on our own. Second is to our families who
never failed to support us. Their understanding as we need to go to different
places to conduct our study. Their support as we need to spend money in
us
as
we
go
thankful
for
the
29
focus on it.
Identify the factors affecting the most reworked apparel with the use of
BUSINESS BACKGROUND
Sewing is one of the oldest forms of human art. In the past, human
stitched animal skins for clothing in order to protect themselves; today a
seamstress sews garments such as costumes/uniforms or mends clothing, in
order to be wearable.
29
29
\\
THEIR MACHINES:
Description
Type of machine
Photo
29
Seam
Attaching pocket
facings
Closing sides
Double-turn
hemming bottoms
Attaching yokes
Seat seams
29
Inseaming
Description
Type of machine
Photo
Attaching yokes
3-needle, feed-off-the-arm
double chainstitch machine for
lap seaming, with rear puller
Seat seams
3-needle, feed-off-the-arm
double chainstitch machine for
lap seaming, with rear puller
Back
29
Seam
29
Counting of delivered
materials, call to see if
materials and parts are
Are the materials complete to
produce the orders?
NO
YES
Make a report to the company
Proceed to sewing a
(customer) that materials and
sample or model (one
parts are insufficient
Proceed to
NO
Rework to meet
the companys
Proceed to
YES
29
29
29
According to Dan Novak there are many different reasons for skipping
stitches. Most of them are easy to cure.
One of the main reasons for skipped stitches is too wide of a gap
between the needle scarf and the hook point. Too large of a gap allows
the thread to slip past the point of the rotary hook and you have a
skipped stitch. Move the hook assembly closer to the needle to reduce
the gap. Always make sure the hook assembly is in good, working
condition. Keep it clean and oiled to your manufacturers specifications.
Another cause of skipped stitches can be flexing the needle away from
the hook point. This again creates too large of a gap. Needle flex is
common when you combine thin needles and fast movement. When
working from the needle side of the machine, the most common flex
caused skip happens when pushing the machine away from the
operator. This can be cured by increasing the motor speed, or by
slowing your movement down. Using a larger diameter needle can also
reduce needle flex.
29
You Have a Dull Needle: When you have a dull sewing machine
needle, sometimes it is not sharp enough to pierce your fabric all the
way through, causing skipped stitches. Replace your needle and this
should fix the problem. You should actually replace your needle after
every sewing projects so it is always sharp.
Youre Using Poor Quality Thread: Some thread breaks easily and
stretches unevenly. This can cause skipped stitches on your fabric.
Spend a few extra cents at the fabric store on good quality thread to
avoid skipped stitches.
29
Your Fabric is Too Thick: Your sewing machine can skip stitches if
youre trying to sew through too many layers or thick fabrics, like vinyl
and leather. Try to slow down and use a longer stitch length to avoid
the problem.
29
29
29
29
ANALYSIS OF DATA
For the researchers to identify and prioritize what apparel line is mostly
having problem on the enterprise, a Pareto Chart was made based on the
data provided. The data shown on Table 1, came from a 1 month record of
the enterprise, scoping from August to September 2014 on the number of
rejection items per apparel.
Number of reworked items per apparel from August to September,
2014
August
September
Total
Quantity
23
23
17
17
Pants
93
76
169
Shorts
45
45
Baby Dress
Long sleeves
29
Table 1: The enterprise provided records on the reworked items per apparel for
Augusto to September, 2014.
From the data on Table 1, a Pareto Chart of the reworked items per
apparel can be created to recognize the apparel that needs the most
improvement. Figure 1 showed this chart.
250
100
200
80
150
60
100
40
50
20
APPARELS
NUMBER OF REWORKED I TEMS
Percent
Cum %
PANTS
169
66.5
66.5
SHORTS
45
17.7
84.3
Percent
In analyzing the result of Figure 1, Pareto Chart, the apparel that has
the most number of reworked items recorded is the Pants Apparel. 66.5% of
the cumulative percent is gained by the Pants leading to be the prioritized
apparel that needs the most improvement. Shorts came next which is also
29
FUTHER ANALYSIS
HALAS and PHOS Enterprises is a small business, hired as
subcontractor of different big apparel companies here in the Philippines. It
has been producing different kinds of tops and bottoms depending on what
their customers design will be. In their per contract inspection of their pants
production line, it showed that different rework problems were present, that
were faced by the sewers and the business itself up until today. These rework
problems are Open Seam, Puckering, Bubbling, Loose/Tight Tension, Broken,
Skip, Crocked, Inconsistent, Uneven, Deform/Twisted, Pleated/Dimple, Raw
Edge/ Fazed Edge, Needle Mark, Off Shade, Stain, Fabric Damage, Excessive
Stitches, Bar tack, Waistline, Zipper, and Coin Purse.
TYPES OF
REWORKS
Open Seam
Puckering
Bubbling
4
Deform /
Twisted
0
Waistline
8
Broken
0
Pleated /
Dimple
0
Zipper
5
Skip
0
Raw Edge /
Frazed Edge
0
Coin Purse
4
Croked
0
Of Shade
124
Stain
0
Fabric Damage
29
Loose/Tight
Tesion
0
Needle
Mark
0
Uneven
3
Inconsisten
t
4
Excessive
5
Button
Holes
2
Stitches
0
29
180
100
160
140
80
120
60
100
80
40
60
40
Percent
20
20
Types of Defects
124 10
8
5
5
4
4
4
5
73.4 5.9 4.7 3.0 3.0 2.4 2.4 2.4 3.0
73.4 79.3 84.0 87.0 89.9 92.3 94.7 97.0 100.0
Fig. 1.2. Pareto Analysis of the defects from the pants production line.
Based on the figure above, the reworks from Skip, Bar Tack, Waistline
and Zipper gained the total 84.0% of the Cumulative percent sum of the
production defects. 73.4% which is the Skip Stitches Defects on the Pants is
the defect needed the most attention and improvement.
On Figure 1 and Figure 1.2 shows that the Skip Stitches on the
production of Pants is the enterprise's problem that needs most attention.
The researchers should focus on minimizing the occurring 4% reworked items
on the Pants production by 2% to achieve improvement. To solve the
problem, the researchers should identify the root cause of Skip Stitches
occurring on the production of pants, find solutions and recommend ways on
how to reduce the reworked items on the production of pants by 2%. A
fishbone diagram can be useful in identifying the root causes of the problem.
CAUSE AND EFFECT ANALYSIS
29
Fig. 2 Fish Bone diagram of the root causes of Skip stitches on the
production of pants
Analyzing the cause and effect diagram or the Ishikawa diagram, the
researchers found out 10 root causes why the production of Pants apparels
have been defected and reworked for different causes specifically the skip
stitches problem. The researchers summarized the 10 root causes and
created 10 hypotheses out of it.
1.) Lack of training
H1: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by sewers lack of
training.
2.) Aiming for more piece to produce
H2: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by the sewers
aiming for more piece of product to produce.
3.) No standard time set
H3: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by having no
standard time set for the whole process.
29
29
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
TRUE
FALSE
RECOMMENDATION
Root Cause: Improper needle size thread size relationship
Based on the observation of the management, they agreed that
flagging is the cause of skip stitches. According to A&E Technical Bulletin,
Flagging occurs if the seam is not held in a
stationary position when the needle is rising;
the seam will rise with the needle and does
not form a proper loop formation. Flagging is
caused by poor loop formation. The thread
will not be properly clamped on the scarf side
of the needle which according to A&E
Technical Bulletin is caused by needle size
thread size relationship is improper.
Alternative 1.1 Verify the thread selection matching the needle used for
specific fabric, knowing the thread characteristics that affect the loop
29
Rayon
Polyester
Nylon
Cotton
29
Metallic
29
Alternative 1.2 Check the Needle Thread size relationship on this chart
according to YLI Corporation that held sewers and management decide on
the thread that would match the needle and the fabric.
THREAD SIZING
29
29
29
Alternative 2.2 The sewers and the management can also check the needle
clearance and reset the needle guard matching the appropriate size of the
needle to be used.
29
29
29