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ADAMSON UNIVERSITY

COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

An Industry Paper on the Quality Improvement of Pants production at

HALAS AND
PHOS
ENTERPRISES
ENGR. NOE ENRIQUEZ

John Glenn Biblanias


Regine Dela Paz
Christine Mae Garcia
Fatima Mantala
Ericka Redell Nimeno
Raylin Platon
Lady Marsh Valencia

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This Industry Paper will not be possible without first the wisdom and
knowledge of God who guided us as we start until we finish this paper. We
believe that we cannot do this on our own. Second is to our families who
never failed to support us. Their understanding as we need to go to different
places to conduct our study. Their support as we need to spend money in

A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise
transportation and other expenses. And their trust that we can handle this
tasks ourselves. Next is to Mr. Johnny & Mrs. Gloria Biblanias for allowing us
to use their home as our venue for discussion, brainstorming, rest and even
for refueling up our strength with those delicious foods they prepared. We
are very blessed and thankful for your hospitality and support. Third is to the
company who allowed us to be our subject for study, the Halas and Phos
Enterprises. To the owner Ms. Rebecca F. Biblanias, we are very grateful that
you warmly welcomed us in your company and for gladly accepting our
request in spite of the entire work load you have. To Ms. Vilma S. Historillo,
the head inspector for pants garments, thank you for guiding us in studying
how the process is done in assembling your products. Thank you for your
patience as we are not familiar with this craft. We are also thankful to our
Professor/Adviser Engr. Noe Enriquez for challenging us with this task and for
supervising

us

as

we

go

along the way. And lastly we


are

thankful

for

the

contribution of one another


in accomplishing this project.
Without everyones support,
this will not be done with fun
and excitement.

OBJECTIVE OF THE STUDY


This study aims to provide a developed apparel manufacturing process for
HALAS and PHOS ENTERPRISES and help them give their internal and
external customers the quality they are looking for. At the end of this study,
it aims to accomplish the following:

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Identify which production line of the apparels of HALAS AND PHOS


ENTERPRISES produce the most number of reworked products and

focus on it.
Identify the factors affecting the most reworked apparel with the use of

the data gathered.


Reduce by 2% the currently occurring 4% of reworked items of the

apparels through Quality Improvement.


Provide alternatives on minimizing the number of reworked apparels
produced with the use of different tools and processes.

BUSINESS BACKGROUND
Sewing is one of the oldest forms of human art. In the past, human
stitched animal skins for clothing in order to protect themselves; today a
seamstress sews garments such as costumes/uniforms or mends clothing, in
order to be wearable.

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Halas & Phos Enterprises is a business partnership established in 2009,
dedicated to people who believe that sewing is a rewarding and creative
activity. The passion for sewing is being experience and we know that
calming effect or sewing is a joy that we can celebrate throughout the year.
Halas & Phos is a sub-contraction of some manufacturing companies
engaged in the production or various garments. Starting this clothing
manufacturing business is a challenging and yet exciting experience.
Choosing a specific apparel industry such as tops and bottoms, can lead to
specializing in a specific field and building customer relationship which will
eventually lead to branching out into other apparel categories.
Manufacturing garments entrains a lot of planning and consciousness
of the schedule. The coordination of contractions and their timeless plays a
vital role in meeting deadlines in the production in most cases, the
production of garments is very time sensitive in order to ship goods to stores
and boutiques for the upcoming season.
Vision
Progress against Poverty
Mission
Empower people to do things for them to
become self-reliance.
Goal
To enhance the earning capacity of the
workers for the welfare of their families and community.
THEIR PRODUCTION AREA:

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\\

THEIR MACHINES:

Description

Type of machine

Photo

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Seam

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Closing pocket bag

Safety stitch machine for plain


seaming, with thread chain
cutter , presser foot lift

Attaching pocket
facings

2-needle, flatbed, double


chainstitch machine with top
cover thread for attaching pocket
facing of pocket openings, with
thread chain cutter

Serging front files

1-needle, overedger for plain


seaming

Closing sides

Variable top feed, safety stitch


machine for plain seaming on
extra heavy weight fabrics, with
thread chain cutter

Double-turn
hemming bottoms

1-needle, double chainstitch


machine for double-turn hemming
bottoms

Attaching yokes

3-needle, feed-off-the-arm double


chainstitch machine for lap
seaming, with rear puller

2-needle, needle-feed, looper-inAttaching waistband line double chain stitch machine


for attaching waistband

Seat seams

3-needle, feed-off-the-arm double


chainstitch machine for lap
seaming, with rear puller

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Inseaming

Description

3-needle, feed-off-the-arm double


chainstitch machine for lap
seaming, with rear puller

Type of machine

Photo

Attaching yokes

3-needle, feed-off-the-arm
double chainstitch machine for
lap seaming, with rear puller

Seat seams

3-needle, feed-off-the-arm
double chainstitch machine for
lap seaming, with rear puller

Back

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Seam

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This is a SIPOC Diagram of the process of how Halas and Phos


Enterprise begin and end their transactions in every company. This is a serve
as a documentation visual tool in the business of sewing apparels as
subcontractors to different big companies and local customers.

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From Suppliers to Input Flow Chart

Delivery of cut raw


materials from the
clothing company or
the customers

Counting of delivered
materials, call to see if
materials and parts are
Are the materials complete to
produce the orders?

NO
YES
Make a report to the company
Proceed to sewing a
(customer) that materials and
sample or model (one
parts are insufficient

Proceed to

Send it to the company


(customer) for them to
check the model
Do the company (customer) like
the model?

NO

Rework to meet
the companys
Proceed to

YES

Start the production


of all the orders

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B
1
End

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REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE


Longarm Technical Tips : Skipping Stitches and The Reasons Why
By Dan Novak

According to Dan Novak there are many different reasons for skipping
stitches. Most of them are easy to cure.
One of the main reasons for skipped stitches is too wide of a gap
between the needle scarf and the hook point. Too large of a gap allows
the thread to slip past the point of the rotary hook and you have a
skipped stitch. Move the hook assembly closer to the needle to reduce
the gap. Always make sure the hook assembly is in good, working
condition. Keep it clean and oiled to your manufacturers specifications.

Another cause of skipped stitches can be flexing the needle away from
the hook point. This again creates too large of a gap. Needle flex is
common when you combine thin needles and fast movement. When
working from the needle side of the machine, the most common flex
caused skip happens when pushing the machine away from the
operator. This can be cured by increasing the motor speed, or by
slowing your movement down. Using a larger diameter needle can also
reduce needle flex.

Why Does My Sewing Machine Skip Stitches?


Cara Stromness on 11/2012

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According to Cara Stromness if your sewing machine is skipping stitches,
there is either an underlying problem in the way it is setup or with the fabric
and notions you are using. the following causes and solutions for skipped
stitches on a sewing machine.

You Have a Dull Needle: When you have a dull sewing machine
needle, sometimes it is not sharp enough to pierce your fabric all the
way through, causing skipped stitches. Replace your needle and this
should fix the problem. You should actually replace your needle after
every sewing projects so it is always sharp.

Your Thread Tension Is Of: Thread tension is the cause of a lot of


problems on your sewing machine, including skipped stitches. Adjust
the upper thread tension so it is even with the bobbin thread tension.
You can practice on a scrap piece of fabric until the tension is just right.

Your Machine Is Threaded Incorrectly: One of the first things you


should try if your sewing machine is skipping stitches is rethread your
machine and your bobbin, making sure the thread goes through the
tension discs.

Your Bobbin Is in Backwards: In some of the older, front-loading


bobbin sewing machines, its easy to insert the bobbin backwards.
Sometimes the machine will still run, but it causes skipped stitched
and other problems. Check to make sure your bobbin is in the case the
right direction some machines have the thread clockwise while
others have it counterclockwise.

Youre Using Poor Quality Thread: Some thread breaks easily and
stretches unevenly. This can cause skipped stitches on your fabric.
Spend a few extra cents at the fabric store on good quality thread to
avoid skipped stitches.

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Your Fabric is Too Thick: Your sewing machine can skip stitches if
youre trying to sew through too many layers or thick fabrics, like vinyl
and leather. Try to slow down and use a longer stitch length to avoid
the problem.

Performance improvement of manufacturing industry by reducing


the Defectives using Six Sigma Methodologies - Chethan Kumar C S,
Dr. N V R Naidu, Dr. K Ravindranath
Abstract:
Studies have investigated how quality management can be employed in lean
manufacturing to improve the performance of various issues in the whole
business processes of various industries. This research work develops an
application guideline for the assessment, improvement, and control of
wastes in garment industry using six-sigma improvement methodology.
Improvements in the quality of processes lead to cost reductions as well as
service enhancements. An attempt is made to introduce and implement
DMAIC methodology in Sun garment industry located in Coimbatore.
Conclusion:
The garment industry in focus was exporting the final product to European
countries. It was operating at a percentage defective of 4.42. After
implementing the DMAIC methodology the percentage defective is reduced
to 1.95. The same approach can be utilized to other products of the company
which will reduce lots of defects. If the quantum of defectives are reduced
and converted into cash flows, the company will benefit through increased
revenues. Many medium scale garment industries in India are not aware of
the lean six sigma concepts and this implementation will trigger a positive
wave across the garment industries and become more competitive. (Chethan

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Kumar C S, Dr. N V R Naidu, Dr. K Ravindranath/ IOSR Journal of
Engineering(IOSRJEN) www.iosrjen.orgVol. 1, Issue 1, pp. 001-009)

A STUDY ON GARMENT PRODUCTION MOBILITY IN TIRUPPUR - Mr.


A. Aloysius, Director, SAVE, LABOUR RESOURCE CENTER SAVE
Abstract
This study carried out by Labour Resource Centre (LRC) of SAVE, Tiruppur
attempts to find out the garment production mobility in terms of garment
workers involvement in the production, wages prevailing in the industries
and workers violation at workplace. Three pronged approaches were used in
the data collection viz., industrial survey, focused group discussion and
interview schedule survey. In industrial survey 25 industries were survey, in
focused group discussion a group of 7 workers of various industries were
interviewed, 120 individual workers were interviewed using interview
schedule tool. Most of sampled industries are manufacturing and exporting
garments in the ranges of 50000 to 80000 pieces per month. Seven tenth of
the sampled industries are making an annual turnover of rupees 7 crores to 9
crores. Majority of the workers are in the adult age group of 28 to 37 years.
Women workers are observed high in garment industries in equal proportion
with the men workers. Psychological and sexual abuses are more prevalent
in the industries, of whom women are more vulnerable.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Based on the results, it can be observed that workplace violation is more
prevalent in garment industries, thus, in accordance to it, few
recommendations are made for protecting the rights of the workers, they
are:

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Effective workplace violence prevention policy need to be drafted, which
includes physical security, pre-employment screening, good termination
practices, employee assistance programmes, etc.
A careful drafting of sexual harassment policy and then conducting
periodic and effective education programs based on those policies will create
a zero-tolerance attitude. Workers must be education about what constitutes
harassment.
A massive campaign has to be conducted to sensitise the garment
workers across the Tiruppur to know their labour rights.
Violation of workers rights have to be discussed at international level and
in which regional support needed to be garnered to get the workers
mobilisation.
Enabling the women garment workers in the process of developing their
own collective organisation, sensitising to put forth a strong fight against all
kinds of workplace discrimination.
Federation among all unions needs to be initiated, shedding their
difference of political affiliations and uniting for the common purpose of
claiming the workers rights and preventing violation at workplace.
The government of the country has to channelise the workers energy and
power in a disciplined, organised and refined way and give a humanistic
direction so that worker could, of their own volition, cooperate with one
another in weathering the challenges posed by globalization and achieve
economic prosperity.
(Mr. A. Aloysius, Director, SAVE, LABOUR RESOURCE CENTERSAVENo.5,
Iswarya Nagar,Dharapuram Road, K.N..P. Colony (Post)).

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STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM
Big apparel companies are giving life to small businesses by hiring
them as sub-contractors in producing varieties of apparels to be out of the
market. Big companies served as the suppliers/customers of the small
businesses and wanted to have no defects on their products. Halas and Phos
Enterprise is one of the businesses that offers big apparel companies the
sewing job needed for the products. Halas and Phos Enterprise want to have
minimum amount of defects with the apparels they supplied to the big
companies.
Halas and Phos Enterprise is currently having a 135 rejected pants due
to different sewing problems identified out of every 3000 items produced.
The rejected pants are reworked and inspected to check if the cause of
rejection is eliminated and then delivered.
This paper aims to minimize by 2% the currently occurring 4%
reworked pants to improve the quality and increase the clients satisfaction
and strengthen relationship.
This paper will look into the finished pants product t and its reliability
to the customers as good quality product. The quality of the pants is
dependent on the quality of sewing process of raw materials. So the
researchers will look at the different factors affecting the sewing process and
create a recommendation for improvement.

SCOPE AND LIMITATIONS


The scope of the study focuses on the production of Pants/Jeans only,
why HALAS and PHOS Enterprises produce defective products that need to
be redone or reworked and how to reduce the problems by 2%. The study will
find ways to minimize the root cause/s of the defects through considering

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variables present on the time of the production and by using different quality
tools.
The study does not focus on the business other apparels such as
shorts, t-shirts, polo shirts, dresses, jackets and other occasional contracts.
The study will only focus on the production of the pants produced because
this is the regular and commonly sewed products and attain the mostly in
need to improve on their business and other apparels undergone other
processes of sewing and set of sewers. The study also does not cover the
processes within the business that is not related to the pants production, like
logistics and partnerships to other companies.

ANALYSIS OF DATA
For the researchers to identify and prioritize what apparel line is mostly
having problem on the enterprise, a Pareto Chart was made based on the
data provided. The data shown on Table 1, came from a 1 month record of
the enterprise, scoping from August to September 2014 on the number of
rejection items per apparel.
Number of reworked items per apparel from August to September,
2014
August

September

Total
Quantity

23

23

17

17

Pants

93

76

169

Shorts

45

45

Baby Dress
Long sleeves

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Table 1: The enterprise provided records on the reworked items per apparel for
Augusto to September, 2014.

From the data on Table 1, a Pareto Chart of the reworked items per
apparel can be created to recognize the apparel that needs the most
improvement. Figure 1 showed this chart.

250

100

200

80

150

60

100

40

50

20

APPARELS
NUMBER OF REWORKED I TEMS
Percent
Cum %

PANTS
169
66.5
66.5

SHORTS
45
17.7
84.3

BABY DRESS LONG SLEEVES


23
17
9.1
6.7
93.3
100.0

Percent

NUMBER OF REWORKED ITEMS

Pareto Chart of Reworked Items per Apparel

Figure 1: Pareto Chart of Reworked Items per Apparel

In analyzing the result of Figure 1, Pareto Chart, the apparel that has
the most number of reworked items recorded is the Pants Apparel. 66.5% of
the cumulative percent is gained by the Pants leading to be the prioritized
apparel that needs the most improvement. Shorts came next which is also

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the commonly sewed apparel of the enterprise. And the baby dress and long
sleeves which is classified as occasional apparels sewed by the enterprise.
The study therefore should focus on the Pants Apparel to obtain the
improvements, the researchers, the enterprise and the customers are
looking for.

FUTHER ANALYSIS
HALAS and PHOS Enterprises is a small business, hired as
subcontractor of different big apparel companies here in the Philippines. It
has been producing different kinds of tops and bottoms depending on what
their customers design will be. In their per contract inspection of their pants
production line, it showed that different rework problems were present, that
were faced by the sewers and the business itself up until today. These rework
problems are Open Seam, Puckering, Bubbling, Loose/Tight Tension, Broken,
Skip, Crocked, Inconsistent, Uneven, Deform/Twisted, Pleated/Dimple, Raw
Edge/ Fazed Edge, Needle Mark, Off Shade, Stain, Fabric Damage, Excessive
Stitches, Bar tack, Waistline, Zipper, and Coin Purse.
TYPES OF
REWORKS

Open Seam

Puckering

Bubbling

4
Deform /
Twisted
0
Waistline
8
Broken

0
Pleated /
Dimple
0
Zipper
5
Skip

0
Raw Edge /
Frazed Edge
0
Coin Purse
4
Croked

0
Of Shade

124
Stain

0
Fabric Damage

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Loose/Tight
Tesion
0
Needle
Mark
0
Uneven
3
Inconsisten
t
4
Excessive

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0
Bartack
10

5
Button
Holes
2

Stitches
0

Table 2: the enterprise provide the recorded data on different types of


reworked occur in Pants production
In the data gathered after the business per contract inspection, it was
found that 73.4% of the total number of reworks came from Skip. Skip is a
problem from stitching described as the wide range gaps between the
stitches on the run of the apparels. 5.9% came from Bar Tack, that is
described as the cloth bars like holding the belt for the pants. 4.7% came
from Waistline or the Waist ban on the other term, described as the problem
on the positioning of the waistline part of the pants. 3.0% came from Stain,
which is the literally stains acquired by the pants while in marking stations
and can be [resent while the sewing process is in progress. 3.0% came from
Zipper, not just the zipper itself but the stitches, design, and positioning of
the zipper in whole. 2.4% came from Inconsistency, described as the literally
inconsistency of the distance of the stitches strokes. 2.4% came from Open
Seam that is described as the open or holes unstitch or unjoin. Then, the rest
were not present on the said contract audited. These rework problems are
mostly to happen on the production of the pants/jeans that were attributed
to increasing number of rush times, delays, cancelled contracts and even
more reworks.
The proponents are focused on analyzing the root cause/s of the said
reworks and coming up with set of alternatives or recommendations to
provide the business a
minimal number of reworked products on their product

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180

100

160
140

80

120
60

100
80

40

60
40

Percent

Number of Defects per Type

Pareto Chart on the defects present at Pants Apparel

20

20
Types of Defects

Number of Defects per Type


Percent
Cum %

124 10
8
5
5
4
4
4
5
73.4 5.9 4.7 3.0 3.0 2.4 2.4 2.4 3.0
73.4 79.3 84.0 87.0 89.9 92.3 94.7 97.0 100.0

Fig. 1.2. Pareto Analysis of the defects from the pants production line.
Based on the figure above, the reworks from Skip, Bar Tack, Waistline
and Zipper gained the total 84.0% of the Cumulative percent sum of the
production defects. 73.4% which is the Skip Stitches Defects on the Pants is
the defect needed the most attention and improvement.
On Figure 1 and Figure 1.2 shows that the Skip Stitches on the
production of Pants is the enterprise's problem that needs most attention.
The researchers should focus on minimizing the occurring 4% reworked items
on the Pants production by 2% to achieve improvement. To solve the
problem, the researchers should identify the root cause of Skip Stitches
occurring on the production of pants, find solutions and recommend ways on
how to reduce the reworked items on the production of pants by 2%. A
fishbone diagram can be useful in identifying the root causes of the problem.
CAUSE AND EFFECT ANALYSIS

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Fig. 2 Fish Bone diagram of the root causes of Skip stitches on the
production of pants

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Analyzing the cause and effect diagram or the Ishikawa diagram, the
researchers found out 10 root causes why the production of Pants apparels
have been defected and reworked for different causes specifically the skip
stitches problem. The researchers summarized the 10 root causes and
created 10 hypotheses out of it.
1.) Lack of training
H1: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by sewers lack of
training.
2.) Aiming for more piece to produce
H2: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by the sewers
aiming for more piece of product to produce.
3.) No standard time set
H3: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by having no
standard time set for the whole process.

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4.) Unadjusted sewing tension
H4: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by machines
unadjusted sewing tension.
5.) Unorganized machine and table positions
H5: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by unorganized
machine and table positions.
6.) No policy on reworking
H6: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by having no policy
on reworking.
7.) Improper needle size thread size relationship
H7: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by improper needle
size thread size relationship.
8.) Improper needle size used
H8: Skip stitches on the pants production is caused by improper needle
size used.
To check if the hypotheses created were true for Halas and Phos
Enterprise production of pants, hypotheses were checked by the
management of Halas and Phos Enterprise and results revealed in Table 3.
HYPOTHESES
1.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by sewers lack of training.
2.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by the sewers aiming for
more piece of product to produce.
3.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by having no standard time
set for the whole process.
4.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by machines unadjusted
sewing tension.
5.) Skip stitches on the pants production

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TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

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is caused by unorganized machine
and table positions.
6.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by having no policy on
reworking.
7.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by improper needle size
thread size relationship.
8.) Skip stitches on the pants production
is caused by improper needle size
used.

TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

TRUE

FALSE

Table 3: Managements response to the presented root causes of skip


stitches on the pants production.

RECOMMENDATION
Root Cause: Improper needle size thread size relationship
Based on the observation of the management, they agreed that
flagging is the cause of skip stitches. According to A&E Technical Bulletin,
Flagging occurs if the seam is not held in a
stationary position when the needle is rising;
the seam will rise with the needle and does
not form a proper loop formation. Flagging is
caused by poor loop formation. The thread
will not be properly clamped on the scarf side
of the needle which according to A&E
Technical Bulletin is caused by needle size
thread size relationship is improper.
Alternative 1.1 Verify the thread selection matching the needle used for
specific fabric, knowing the thread characteristics that affect the loop

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formation and the relationship to needle. Here are the types of thread to be
used.

Produced by pressing cellulose acetate through small


holes and solidifying it in the form of filaments. The most
common size is 120d x 2 (40 wt.).
o
high sheen
o
soft, and works well in detail
o
relatively heat resistant
o
not colorfast
o
not as strong as polyester
o
less durable than polyester

Synthetically produced by pressing polymer resins


through small holes and solidifying in the form of
filaments.
o
Durable. designed for heavy duty use
o
stronger, more tensile strength than rayon
o
colorfast
o
retains shape
o
recovers stretch
o
spun poly is strong, with a matte appearance
o
tribal poly has a sheen equal to rayon but is
not as strong as spun poly
A synthetic thread most commonly in the form as a
monofilament clear thread or as a texturized fuzzy
thread.
o
strong
o
Low melting temperature. Not heat resistant.
o
Not colorfast. Will yellow over time.
o
becomes brittle through laundering
The only 100% natural fiber thread made for high
speed machines. Cotton has various finishes, each
providing specific results.
Mercerized the thread is treated is a solution,
causing the fibers to swell. This allows the dye to better
penetrate the fibers and increases the luster of the
thread. It also increases the strength of the thread.
Gassed the thread is passed through a flame at high
speed to reduce the fuzz.
Glazed the thread is treated with wax or other
chemicals, the polished to create a higher luster.

Rayon

Polyester

Nylon

Cotton

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Metallic

Although the result is a glossy, hard finish which


protects the thread, the glaze does rub off and can gum
up the needle and machine.
o
soft
o
strong and durable
o
easily adjusts to changes in the fabric (such as
shrinkage) since it is a natural fiber
o
available in various thread weights
o
easy care

The quality of metallic thread ranges from very high


to very low. A good metallic thread does not require a
lubricant.

Quality metallic thread has the following


components:
o
Nylon core. A nylon core offers the most
strength. Polyester and rayon cores are inferior.
o
Rice paper construction. This adds strength
and cohesiveness and makes the thread softer and
supple, reducing the wiry feel. It also reduces tangling.
o
Outer coating. Lower end metallic have no
outer coating. This means the metal foil rubs against
the needle, creating friction, resulting in discoloring
and shredding. A good metallic has an outer coating
which reduces friction and acts as a protective layer.

Laminate or Flat thread. Produced by bonding


layers of polyester together and slicing to a desired
width. Usually available in either 2 ply or 5 ply.
o
colorfast
o
brilliant, reflective, colors
o
Heat resistant. can be ironed
o
5 ply does not require special handling for
good results. 2 ply usually requires special handling
for good results.
o
able to produce in a hologram effect

Thread construction methods

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A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise
Spun thread
Core thread
Texturized
thread
Monofilament

Cotton or polyester staple fibers are spun into single


yarns and then twisted together.
Spun cotton or polyester staple fibers wrapped around a
continuous filament of polyester fibers.
Continuous filament polyester or nylon that has been
mechanically texturized and heat set to make the thread
fuzzy and stretchy.
Single nylon or polyester filament.

Alternative 1.2 Check the Needle Thread size relationship on this chart
according to YLI Corporation that held sewers and management decide on
the thread that would match the needle and the fabric.
THREAD SIZING

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A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise

Root Cause: Improper size of needle used


According to the Management, theyve observed that the skip stitches
is caused by needle deflection. According to Merriams Webster dictionary,
deflection is the act of changing or causing something to change direction.
This change in direction is caused by a bent needle. Then a bent needle is

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A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise
caused by needle heat or literally the needle is heated while sewing. The
needle heat is caused by simply improper size of needle used for each type
of fabrics present which the management tends to unnoticed from the
beginning of the production.
Alternative 2.1 Check the size of the needle matching the type of fabric
used before starting the whole production. Here are the types of needle
matching the different types of fabrics according to Schmetzs needles chart.

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A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise

Alternative 2.2 The sewers and the management can also check the needle
clearance and reset the needle guard matching the appropriate size of the
needle to be used.

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A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise

Root Cause: Unadjusted Sewing Tension


Unadjusted sewing tension is the most common root cause of skip
stitches that Halas and Phos Enterprise didnt escape from the incorrect
sewing tension present on the production.
Alternative 3.1 Check the Tension of the machine before starting the whole
production. Set the standard tension needed and maintain it until the whole
production is done. There are 7 steps present to adjust tension on automatic
machines that are present on Halas and Phos Enterprise.
7 Steps on Adjusting Tension according to Threads Magazine
Step 1: Sew a test seam on the fabric to be used.
Step 2: Observe the seam on the top and the bottom surface using a
magnifying device if need be.
Step 3: Find the position of the knots.
Step 4: Tighten the tension and "pull the knots up" if the knots appear on the
bottom side of the sewn seam.
Step 5: Loosen the tension and "drop the knots down" if the knots are on the
top surface.
Step 6: Sew a test on the fabric that will be used on the production. Tensions
often have to be adjusted when changing fabric types and weights.

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A Study on the Pants Production of Halas and Phos


Enterprise
Step 7: Continue adjusting the tension and inspecting the seam until your
seam is balanced.
With all the alternatives presented and analyzed, the management has
a choice which alternative they prefer to apply on their Enterprise for the
reduction of reworked products on their pants production as improvement to
their quality standards.

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