Professional Documents
Culture Documents
and
Man-Made Fibres
Sangita Srivastava, M.Sc., D.Phil.
Associate Professor and Head
Department of Home Science
University of Allahabad
Allahabad, India
ISBN-13: 978-81-904737-2-9
Dedicated to My Parents
Professor R. N. Srivastava and Dr. Pratibha Srivastava
Preface
This book is being brought out for students who are
pursuing courses in apparel and textile designing. Before taking
a step towards apparel designing, it is of great importance to
know about different textile fibres. The book covers in its varied
chapters all details about fibres - natural and man-made. This
book covers the story of all natural fibres beginning from where
they are obtained, and how many processes the fibres undergo
before the yarn making and fabric making process. It is
interesting to study how each fibre has properties different from
the other. A lot of fibre properties make an appearance in the
fabric due to the environment in which the fibre was grown and
also because of its molecular structure. Some changes on the
surface of the fibre can be brought about by the use of finishes
which enhance their appearance and make the fabrics perform
better.
I have tried my best to cover almost all man-made fibres and
natural fibres to give a comprehensive detail about the
properties each one of them possess, and how and where they
are used.
The author owes immense gratitude to Pushpa Publishing
House, for publishing this book, and all those who have been
involved in the shaping-up of this book. I am thankful to my
research scholar Ms. A. Fatima for her constant help from time
to time.
Preface
Sangita Srivastava
Contents
21
31
39
51
63
79
89
Chapter 9: Polyesters
105
119
131
143
Textile Fibres
Man-made staple
Filament tow
Filament
Silk is the only natural filament fibre. All man-made fibres are
extruded from the spinneret as filament, but some are reduced to
staple and used in the form only. While others are used as both
filament and staple. Yarns made from filament are of two types.
Multifilament and monofilament.
Multifilament yarns are made up of a number of tiny filaments
twisted together. The size and number of the filament may vary.
Yarns of this type are smooth and give a smooth surface texture,
softness, lustre, luxurious drape. They are used in lingerie,
blouses, and other dresses.
Monofilaments yarns are composed of a single solid strand of
great strength and smoothness. Very sheer hosiery is made from
these monofilament yarns. Large monofilaments are used for car
seat covers and screenings, also other such things.
Staple fibre
All staple fibres either natural or man-made are short in
length, and are measured in inches. They range from three quarter
of an inch to fifteen inches.
The word staple derives meaning from the fourteenth century
as a descriptive term for merchandize. Later it came to mean basic
commodities in a particular business. Still later it was used to
express the length of wool and cotton fibres. During World War I
Germany began the practice of cutting artificial silk into short
lengths for use in cotton and wool type fabrics as there was
shortage of these fibres. The word staple as applied to these cut
fibres and is now the standard name for any fibre of a length
3
filament
and
staple
are
spun
by
different
Cotton
16 to 20 microns
Flax
12 to 16 microns
Wool
10 to 70 microns
Silk
11 to 12 microns
Textile Fibres
The diameter of man-made fibres is determined according to
end use. It is controlled by the size of the spinneret and by
stretching during or after spinning. The fineness of the man-made
fibre is measured in denier. For any fibre the higher the denier the
more coarse the fibre.
Surface contour refers to the surface of the fibre along its shaft.
Natural fibres grow in certain shapes and are not uniform
throughout
their
length.
Man-made
fibres
within
certain
limitations can be made in any desired shape. They are exactly the
same diameter throughout, they can be altered into thick or thin
as per the requirement. Fibre shape is determined by end use. For
blending natural fibre with, man-made the man-made fibre is
prepared to be of the same thickness as that with which it has to
blend.
Wool is the only fibre which has a broken surface caused by
overlapping sections like fish scales or shingles, no man-made fibre
has so far been produced with the effect of broken surface.
Cross-sectional shape
The cross-sectional shape is important because it contributes to
the surface appearance of the fibre. It contributes towards
imparting properties like lustre, bulk, and body to the fibre. It also
affects the hand or the feel of the fabric.
Circular shape is achieved by extruding the spinning solution
through circular holes, by melt spinning process. Or by stretching
when it is wet. These fibres make compact rather than spongy
yarns. Circular cross-sections with serrated edges result from
shrinking of the fibre in a coagulating bath during wet spinning.
Many serrations give high lustre.
or
multiform
shape
probably
results
from
Textile Fibres
Hollow centre fibres give buoyancy. They are seldom used on
clothing but are excellent for life jackets.
Other fibre shapes are possible and if a new shape adds a new
property to a fibre, it may well be prepared. The scope for further
shapes is ever there.
Crimp
Crimp is that property of fibre which imparts waviness along
the length of the fibre. Fibre crimp increases cohesiveness,
resiliency, and resistance to abrasion and gives increased bulk to
the fibre. A fibre may have mechanical crimp, natural or inherent
crimp and latent or chemical crimp.
Mechanical crimp
Mechanical crimp is imparted by passing the fibres through
fluted rollers to produce a two-dimensional wave. The bends in this
crimp are angular as compared to rounded in the natural crimp
fibres. To make the crimp permanent heated rollers are used.
Natural crimp occurs in wool and cotton. Cotton has twodimensional twist called convolutions.
Latent or chemical crimp
Latent or chemical crimp exists in the fibre in an under
developed state. Until the garment is immersed in water and it
coils and curls. Some of the man-made fibres like rayon, acetates
and orlon posses this latent crimp.
Man-made
Natural
Figure 1.2
7
Figure 1.3
Chemical composition
Cellulose fibres are poly hydroxyl alcohols.
Protein fibres are composed of various amino acids.
Acetates are polyesters of cellulose.
8
Textile Fibres
Nylon fibres are polyamides. Polyester fibres are esters of
dihydric alcohols.
Acrylic
fibres
are
addition
polymers
of
acrylonitrile.
pliability
characteristics
and
that
smooth
contribute
filament
to
surface
abrasion
are
fibre
resistance.
The
fibres
have
long
molecular
chains.
Degree
of
Textile Fibres
This is on the basis of wash and wear finish. However, too many
cross-linkages may affect the fibre adversely and it may become
very harsh.
Stability
Stability is an important property a fibre must have for its easy
care and upkeep. Stability is the retention of sizes. A stable fibre
does not stretch, sag or shrink. Stable fibres make a stable fabric
and a stable fabric can be converted into any useable apparel.
Plasticity
Plasticity is the property of a fibre to enable the user to shape
it permanently or semi permanently by moisture, heat and
pressure, or by heat and pressure alone. This property relates to
the ease of beauty and care as well as the durability of the fibre.
This is important from the consumer stand point. Wool has this
property because of its scale structure and its lack of stability.
Thermoplastic fibres are those which soften on heating. These
fibres can be permanently shaped by heat. Thermoplastic fibres
are all heat sensitive but vary in degree of sensitivity. They should
not be washed in hot water.
When the fibres are heated they either decompose or melt.
Melting consists of separating the molecules. It is believed that
cellulose fibres do not melt because of the large molecule size and
because of the strong attraction forces of the hydroxyl groups.
Protein fibres do not melt because of the presence of crosslinkages. Heating causes the molecule to vibrate with such force
that they tear themselves apart or melt. Thus, we know how heat
sensitivity affects production and care of fabrics.
Comfort
The properties of fabric which are associated with comfort are
11
Textile Fibres
Electrical conductivity
This is related to the buildup of static electricity charges on the
fibre. A good conductor does not build up static electricity charge.
Heat conduction
Heat conduction is largely a yarn or fabric property. Since
fabrics are neither warm nor cool. However, because of the
physical structure of the fibre they tend to make cool or warm
clothing. Heat comes from the body if fabrics permit the body heat
to escape like in cotton and flax they are cool fibres, if they do not
permit body heat to escape they are warm fabrics for example
wool.
Beauty and hand
Fibre properties related to beauty and hand are terms used to
describe the fabric like soft, lofty, warm, silk like, and wool like are
descriptive words which in other words is also known as hand.
Loft
Loft or compressenal resiliency refers to the ability of the fibre,
yarn, or fabric to spring back to its original thickness after being
compressed. In fibres loft is because of crimp. This property is good
in sweater, blankets and shawls.
Cover
Fibres with irregular cross-section and with crimp curl or twist
to give better cover for protection purposes. Cover means
concealment or protection on the surface.
Body
The overall look or rigidly firm appearance of the fibre may be
termed to be the body of the fibre.
13
Lustre
Shine
Figure 1.4
Colour
Affinity to take and hold colour is largely contributed to the
chemical composition of the fibre. Absorbent fibres take dye more
readily than non-absorbent ones.
14
Textile Fibres
Chemical resistance
The chemical reactivity of each fibre depends on the
arrangement of the molecules it contains.
Dry-cleaning solvents, perspiration, soap, synthetic detergents,
bleaches, atmospheric gases, soot, and sunshine may all cause
chemical degradation on some or all of the fibres. Alkali
strengthens the cotton fibre. Alkali and chlorine may be used to
make wool shrink resistant. Scientifically controlled use of
chemicals brings about beneficial mordants and finishes.
Resistance to moth and mildew
Fibres without natural resistance should have protective
finishes to prevent moth and mildew. Also, often it is due to the
chemical composition of the fibre. These properties enhance the
usage of protected fabric for clothing.
Flammability
Flammability depends upon the air incorporated in the fibre.
Combustible finishes and dyes make the fibre flammable. Anti
flammable dyes must be used to protect the fibre and make it nonflammable.
Elasticity
Elasticity is the property of any stretched fibre to return to its
normal shape soon as it is out of use. e.g. socks.
Pliability of flexibility
Pliability refers to the fibre to softly fold in any possible
direction. It is because each fibre has the ability to fold that it can
be converted into a three-dimensional outfit. They are easy to twist
in to yarns.
15
16
Dry fibre
Percent elongation
Wool
25 to 35
Acrilan
35
Dynel
39
Vycron
31 to 35
Creslan
32
Fortel
3o to 35
Nylon
26 to 32
Nylon staple
16 to 42
Rayon
15 to 30
Silk
20
Acetate
25
Cotton
5 to 9
Flax
6 to 7
Glass
Avril
5 to 9
Dacron
16 to 42
Textile Fibres
Classification of Textile Fibres
Fibres may be broadly classified into 3 groups:
a. Natural fibres.
b. Man-made fibres (non-thermoplastic).
c. Man-made fibres (thermoplastic).
Figure 1.5
17
Figure 1.6
18
Textile Fibres
Nature is abounded with different kinds of fibrous materials.
Man has learnt to extract and synthesize fibres from available
natural resources and also chemicals. The fibre which is the basic
single unit out of which all fabrics are prepared, has properties
which are inherent to the material from which it has been
extracted. Some such properties are length, strength, pliability,
diameter, abrasion resistance and nature of the surface area.
Along with all these properties the fibre must be pleasant to the
touch both as to texture and temperature, absorbent to some
extent so that they can be dyed and be comfortable to wear; can be
cleaned, they should be light weight if used for apparel, resilient,
durable and available at an affordable price. No fibre is perfect. All
of them are lacking in a few or many of these characteristics.
Modern production methods have overcome some of the difficulties
in making fibres into fabrics. Blending is done to impart properties
of two different fibres to produce a good yarn for a fabric.
All fibres, whether natural or man-made are chemically known
as polymers. Polymers are the result of a process called
polymerisation. It is defined in Hackhs dictionary as a reaction in
which two or more molecules of the same substance combine to
form a compound the new molecular weight being a multiple of
that of the original compound [monomer] or the structural
arrangement in which two or more different monomers or types of
groups are present in alternate sequence in a chain [copolymer].
In simple polymerisation, units (molecules) of the same
compound combine to form the long chain. In hetropolymerisation,
polymerisation occurs between two different kinds of units, only
one of which is capable of polymerisation by itself.
A simple compound A and another simple compound B can
form a long chain of polymer
AAAAAAA
19
20
were found sticking to the silver vase. This shows that cotton had
been produced in India as far back as even the fourth millennium
B.C. Historians speak of the beautiful painted and printed cloth
which was sold in Egypt and some parts of Europe long before the
time of Alexander.
Figure 2.1
It is generally accepted that wool first came into use and cotton
came later. It is not known when India first started to trade with
Europe, but the word Carbasina (Sanskrit word Karpasa) for
cotton suggests that it must have been in use before 200 B.C. To
the Greeks who came to India with Alexander India was a land of
mystery. They were so surprised to see cotton that they called it
Figure 2.2
After cotton is picked several steps are necessary before it can
be spun into yarn, like ginning, baling, grading marketing,
opening, picking, carding, combing, drawing, roving, spinning
winding and spinning and twisting.
22
Figure 2.3
Ginning: Ginning is the process by which seeds are removed.
Several ginning machines have been designed. Shown in figure is a
ginning machine. Roller gins are used for long-fibre cottons and
saw gins are used for intermediate and short fibre cottons. Eli
Whitney, is famed for the invention of cotton gin, an invention of
great importance in the development of cotton industry. A ginning
process, carried out at the seed crushing mills removes the linters.
Baling: After ginning the cotton is compressed into bales,
usually square in shape, the bales are covered with burlap to
protect the fibre and are banded with steel bands to keep the bale
in shape and to make it manageable for handling. Bales vary in
weight from 250 lb to 500 lb for square bales.
Grading: Quality of cotton according to staple, microns colour
and foreign whiteness and spottiness. Grading determines the
quality rating of cotton and the price. It will bring to the market in
relation to the price of standard grades in that particular season.
23
chemical
composition of typical
cotton
is
94%
cellulose,
protein
1.3%
and
other
0.9%
things
raw
cotton
from
88%
varies
to
96%
is
dipped
acid
for
in
a
Figure 2.5
momentary treatment.
Internal structure of cotton
The cotton fibre which are visible to the naked eye, when
viewed under high magnification as with electron microscope are
shown to be comprised of many layers of tiny fibrils arranged in
definite spiral pattern with the different layers at right angles to
each other. This structure as the fibre ripens may account to the
twisting of the fibre as it dries. The picture shows the layered
structure of cotton fibre as revealed by the microscope after
staining and swelling treatment.
Figure 2.6
26
Figure 3.1
Botanical name of linen is linum usitatissimum, a name
indicative of its many early uses. The term flax is derived from
Anglo Saxon and old high German words. Linen designates both
plant and fibre. Flax is a slender straight stemmed plant with
narrow, medium green lance like leaves which grow to a height of
Water
for
might
iron
discolour
that
or
is
Although
process
of
fibre
from
the
woody
Figure 3.3
bamboo
used
textile
or
various
the
bast
fibres.
shape
with
much
Figure 3.5
37
is
60
to
64%
content
which
remainder
from
of
the
the
Figure 4.2
is used for rope twine, cord, and backing for carpet and rugs.
Recent uses in hand purses and apparel have given the fabric a
boost. Burlap is the fabric made from jute. It has many uses: it is
used as under covering for upholstered furniture for bulletin
40
from
Cannabis
family
the
sativa
from
Moracea
the
family.
applied
number
of
to
other
plants. Hemp is an
important crop in
Italy these days.
Figure 4.3
Figure 4.4
Ramie
Ramie
commonly
china
is
plant
known
grass,
as
grass
the
Boehmeria
years
the
Figure 4.6
with
considerable
sunlight,
heavy
rainfall
evenly
concave
enough
have
horse
to
shoe
potential
value
of
soil
Figure 4.8
jackets for the armed services on all kinds of sea duty and for
service personnel being transported by water. The supply of kapok
which was earlier being used for their purpose was cut off during
hostilities. The milkweed fibre in the jackets linning served a
double purpose, to provide insulative warmth onboard ship or to
keep the wearer afloat if forced in water.
Each fibre is a single smooth cylindrical air filled (thus
buoyant) hollow rod with a somewhat distended base. It is very
light in weight, 0.0008 to 0.0020 inch in diameter, very lustrous
white to yellowish white in colour and moisture and vermin
resistant. Because of the nature of its fibre and its buoyancy it
does not lend itself to spinning and weaving.
According to test data of a few years from the Department of
Health of the State of Maryland, a sample of milkweed fibres
floated in hydrant water for 41 days with 30 times its own weight
attached. Another sample floated for 44 days with 33 times its
47
and
The
Sao
use
of
also
met
success.
with
A
no
second
ool is the first fibre that man learnt to make into fabric,
either by felting or matting. Wool is the hair or fur
Figure 5.1
Martin wrote the gossamer muslin of Dacca and beautiful
shawls of Kashmir adored the proudest beauty of the court of
Figure 5.2
53
Figure 5.3
The folded chain structure of wool is believed to straighten out
when pull or pressure is exerted on the wool fibre, and to revert to
its original position when released. The unfolding refolding ability
of the chain would account in large measure for the high degree of
elasticity, elongation, resiliency, and crease resistance of wool
fabrics. The side chains between molecules are believed to hook
together to give still more resistance to packing or crushing. The
cystine side chains, composed in part of sulphur are believed to
form stable links at the sulphur atoms between different chains.
55
Figure 5.4
56
Figure 5.6
Figure 5.7
goat].
Mohair
The importance of mohair a
product of the angora goat is
shown by the fact that pounds
of this fibre is clipped in Texas,
Oregon, Missouri, Arizona and
California in the United States.
The mohair fibre is white in
colour. It is long lustrous, fine
and
strong
excellent
and
spinning
possess
qualities.
Figure 5.8
Mohair lacks the felting quality of wool. This limits its use in
apparel only.
The Llama
The Llama is an aristocratic member of the camel family. It is
valuable as a fur bearing animal and is also known as the beast of
burden. Although Llamas will refuse to carry more than a limited
number of pounds, they are used in many instances because it
costs nothing to feed them and their quality of hair is a valuable
textile fibre. The Llamas occur in the pacific coastal region of
61
The
Guanaco
and
the
Figure 5.9
fibre
other
than
the
sheep,
Figure 5.10
Figure 6.1
Silk was discovered by a Chinese empress in 2640 B.C. The
Chinese carefully guarded the secret of the silk cocoon for 3000
years. They wove beautiful fabrics which were sold to Eastern
Figure 6.2
In respect of mulberry silk in India, Karnatakas share is about
63% while that of West Bengal is about 12%. The remaining 12% is
produced elsewhere in the country. In Karnataka, the principal
districts for the production of silk are Kolar, Bangalore, Mandya,
Tumkur and Mysore. Andhra Pradesh is fast improving its silk
production.
Sericulture
is
introduced
in
large
scale
in
Figure 6.3
69
and
satisfactory
finish
silk,
it
is
necessary to find a
Figure 6.4
74
Length
300-1000 yards
Diameter
9 to 11 microns
Colour
Lustre
High
Strength
Elasticity
High (15-20%)
Heat conductivity
Scorches easily
Water absorbency
30%
Standard regain
11%
Effect of moisture
Effect of sunlight
Very sensitive
Attack by mildew
Yes
Attack by moth
No
Yes
Effect of acids
Effect of alkali
Cross-section
Triangular
export
is
steadily
increasing.
Tremendous
manufacturing
has
provided
maximum
11th,
1884,
cumulating
all
the
efforts
of
his
Figure 7.1
Viscose rayon is largely cellulose which is prepared by
processing wood or cotton, but in dissolving the original cotton or
wood and regenerating the cellulose in a new fibre the degree of
83
as
spinning
solution.
These
proportions
are
86
Figure 7.2
The spinneret used is made of nickel and has larger holes than
those used for viscose. In addition to the spinneret the apparatus
consists of a long glass funnel with a glass nippled end, a source of
constantly running soft warm water introduced at a top area of the
funnel and a coagulating trough containing a weak acid solution.
From the coagulating bath the filaments are wound on bobbins or
collected in spinning pots for final washing and drying, or may be
carried on through a recently developed continuous process for
these final treatments.
Properties
The microscopic appearance is different from that of viscose
rayon. Rest of the properties are the same. When seen through the
87
Figure 7.3
Uses
Cuprammonium rayon is used for sheer dresses and curtain
fabrics, for tricot lingerie and hosiery. It is blended with silk and
with cotton.
88
Modacrylic
Vinal
Nylon
Nytril
Vinyon
Polyester
Olifin
Spandex
Acrylic
Saran
Man-Made Fibres
Seam pucker which is caused by higher elasticity of the fabric
or by nylon thread, must be controlled by changing the tension and
stitch size. The needle should be smaller in size. Do not mark the
fabric with waxy chalks it leaves an oily mark on the fabric which
is difficult to remove.
Heat setting
Heat setting is defined as a heat treatment that gives shape
and size that will not change under conditions of intended use. The
heat used for setting must be higher than any temperature that
will be used later. Since higher temperature than that will cause
the fabric to loose off its set.
Heat setting may be done on the yarn, fabric or completed
article. Heat setting before scouring prevents wrinkles during
scouring. All heat setting is done before or during dyeing.
During the heat treatment the yarn or the fabric, or garment
must be held in shape in which it is to be set. It must be allowed to
shrink to some extent during setting or there will be possible
future shrinkage as the molecules readjust themselves to their
original unstretched condition.
Heat setting is done in boiling water, in a steam oven or hot
air. The time of treatment and the degree of heat determine the
success of the process. Interestingly fabric effects are achieved by
combining or altering heat-set and non-heat-set yarns in fabric.
The thermoplastic fibres have a lot of properties in common.
They are relatively non-absorbent and hygroscopicity is low,
therefore they are uncomfortable to wear in hot climates,
particularly if closely woven or knitted. They are easily washed
and quick drying. They tend not to stain easily. The water soluble
stains wash out readily. This is not always the case with oil bound
stains. Because of low moisture absorption and non-conductivity or
91
Man-Made Fibres
People who live in areas of extreme cold and dryness find it
particularly annoying since it is increased under these conditions.
Static electricity causes soil and lint to cling to the surface of the
dry fabric and dark colours become very unsightly. Brushing
simply increase the difficulty. The resins used for crease
resistance.
Nylon
Nylon is a generic name applied to a number of related
products. Nylon 6,6 was produced by the DuPont Company. It is a
manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is any
long chain of synthetic polyamide having recurring amide groups
as an integral part of the polyamide chain. Nylon is composed of
carbon oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen as are the protein fibres.
But since it is not made of amino acids its properties are not like
that of silk or any protein fibre. In chemical structure, it is
composed of long straight chains with neither side chains nor
cross-linkage. Thus, the chains pack closely together In the fibre,
accounting for its smooth rather slippery quality.
Figure 8.1
93
94
Man-Made Fibres
Figure 8.2
Nylon is composed of carbon hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen as
are the protein fibres, but since it is not made up of amino acids its
properties are not like those of protein substances. In chemical
structure it is believed to be composed of long straight chain
molecules with neither side chains nor cross-linkages. Thus, the
chain pack close together in the fibre accounting for its smooth
slippery quality.
Nylon 6,6 is produced from an acid and a diamine which has in
turn been produced from other material actually going back to
petroleum and coal tar derivatives. Nylon is polymerised by
condensation
reaction
under
pressure
of
adipic
acid
and
Figure 8.3
Cold drawing is the process that gives nylon many of its
qualities for which it is most noted, that is great strength,
toughness, elasticity, abrasion resistance. Drawing is carried out
as for other fibres by passing the filament over rollers which
revolve at different controlled speeds. Nylon is drawn three to
seven times its original size. Drawing orients the molecular chain
in the direction of the fibre axis, lines the chain up parallel to each
other and permits a high degree of crystallinity of the fibres.
Crystallinity tends to give a rigid structure to the fibres. Despite
drawing the nylon fibre still retains greater elasticity than most
other fibres. After drawing, nylon may be given an oil or antistatic
spraying, twisted and heat set before being wound on the bobbins
for weaving knitting or lacing. Heat setting is necessary to
stabilize nylon in shape and dimensions. Nylon may be stabilized
yarn, as woven or knitted fabric or as a knitted garment.
Properties
Nylon has a somewhat cool clammy feel in filament form. Some
people like this feel and others dislike it as much. Nylon is
lustrous, white fibre, transparent to translucent, that can in
common be made in varying diameters, lengths and degrees of
96
Man-Made Fibres
abrasion resistance and lustre. Its translucency has led to
dissatisfaction at the consumer level. Nylon is both tough and
pliable. Nylon does not flame readily, but burns slowly or fuses
and drops off if flame is applied to it. It burns with the odour of
cooking green beans or celery and as it burns or melts forms a
waxy roll along the edge which becomes hard and tough as it cools.
Regardless of the colour of the nylon fabric the curled, waxy edge is
a light tan colour after burning. Although nylon may be termed
non-flammable, the fusing and dropping off present a great hazard
in many ways. Finishes may change this quality of nylon as it does
for other fibres.
Nylon is potentially the strongest of fibres. The wet strength of
nylon is 85% of dry strength. Elongation is 18 to 37 percent. Nylon
has a specific gravity of 1 to 1.4. Absorbency is low. Hygroscopicity
is 4 percent. The low hygroscopicity amounts to accumulating
static electricity. Nylon is somewhat rigid and does not drape as
well as the acetates or silk. It is quick drying. Does not stain
readily, it tends to pick up colour grease and soil in laundering
with other garments, therefore white and pastel nylon needs
separate laundry. Nylon is not affected by cold temperature but
looses strength and yellows at sustained high temperatures.
Ironing should be done at low temperature to prevent softening,
glazing or melting and eventual discolouration. Nylon possesses a
fair wrinkle resistance and crease recovery. It has excellent
abrasion resistance, because of its strength and elasticity it is
considered a very durable fibre.
Nylon is degraded by exposure to sunlight, it leads to
considerable loss in strength in a short time. It is very less
sensitive to light degradation than silk.
97
Figure 8.4
The purified cellulose is pre-treated by moistening with acetic
acid in order to start reaction before the acetylation process begins.
The acetylators are huge closed system mixing tanks equipped
with a stirrer and jacketed to permit circulation of liquid or air
98
Man-Made Fibres
around them so that the temperature can be controlled at the
range of 35 to 120F.
Exact amount of acetic anhydride, glacial acetic acid and
sulphuric acid are put in the acetylator, mixing and cooling to
about 45 degrees. Then the moistened cellulose in amounts of 200
to 300 lb. is added gradually with constant kneading by the stirrer
blades. The temperature is held below 68F for an hour and then
held below 86F for the rest of the acetylation period of 5 to 8
hours.
During acetylation the fibrous structure of the cellulose has
disappeared and the mixture has become transparent, acrid
smelling, viscous fluid having the smell of molasses.
From the acetylator the viscous triacetate is run into tanks
containing water and weak acetic acid. The mixture is allowed to
stand for 20 to 50 hours for partial deacetylation. At this stage the
viscous fluid is run into water, which precipitates the secondary
acetate as white crumbs like flakes. The flakes are washed
thoroughly in huge vats In order to remove and recover all
remaining acetic acid. Dry spinning is done to procure acetate.
Then it is passed through spinnerets.The difference in speed
between winding of the bobbins and emergence of fibres, helping to
control diameter, orient the molecules and increase fibre length.
When drawn from the spinneret acetate is a finished fibre
needing no further processing except lubrication as it is wound on
the bobbin.
Properties
Acetate has a soft, smooth, cool, pleasant feel. It is rich in
appearance and has excellent draping characteristics. Acetate is
pure white in colour, and yellows only slowly with age and use
compared with silk, wool and rayon.
99
Glass
curtains,
draperies,
blankets,
bed
spreads,
dyed
fabrics
for
signals,
safety
targets
and
identification.
Mineral Fibres
Glass
Glass fibres are inorganic polymers based on silicon rather
than carbon. Making of glass textile fibre has developed largely
since
1936-37.
When
the
processes
were
developed
for
Man-Made Fibres
main ingredients. Sand suitable for glass making should be high in
silica and low iron and other undesirable impurities.
The raw material are placed in a batch furnace at a
temperature of over 300 F where the ingredients melt and form a
colourless, transparent, homogenous, viscous liquid, which is the
molten glass. Until recently the molten glass has been dropped. In
small amounts to form clear, greenish coloured marbles and these
were later melt spun.
Figure 8.5
Formation of the fibre from marble is simple as can be seen
from the diagram. The marbles are placed in a small furnace
101
Man-Made Fibres
(4) It is non-absorbent and non-hygroscopic.
(5) It is water repellent and has a specific gravity of 2.25.
(6) It is subject to severe abrasion, and cuts each other if they
rub together.
(7) It is colourless, resistant to acids, alkali and each other
compounds.
Uses
Drapery, curtains, tablecloth, lampshade, fire dust, iron board
cover, insulating electrical wires, parachute.
Asbestos (Fireproof, Acid Resistant, Low Pliability)
The fibre found by mining or quarrying these mines are blasted
free. The fibre is carefully separated from the crushed rock and
sorted according to fibre length properties.
It is 3/8 inches to 3/4 inches in length and having a small
diameter.
Under the microscope the fibres looks like tiny polished rods,
very straight with no rough surfaces.
The physical structure of the fibre makes it difficult to spin,
into yarn because it lacks length and cohesiveness.
Asbestos is white or greyish in colour.
Asbestos fibres do not take dye readily.
Asbestos is used for padding, laundry presses and mangles
belting for conveying hot material, brake lining, gloves and
aprons.
It is absorbent and has wicking properties.
103
104
Chapter 9: Polyesters
Dacron
Figure 9.1
The fibre has a smooth rod like shape which is typical of melt
spun fibres. Dacron 54 has a ribbon like shape which blends better
with cotton. Dacron 62 has a trilobal shape which is similar to silk.
Although nylon and the polyesters burn alike in some ways they
can be distinguished in some ways by the odour and smell with
which they burn. Both are relatively non-flammable in the
unfinished state. Both form tan beads when the melt hardens.
Some dyes may however cause a darker bead to form. Polyesters
have an aromatic odour, and a dark black soot. Nylons odour is
celery-like and the smoke is white.
Dacron type 62 is trilobal with a silk like appearance. It is
more susceptible to acids and alkalies and dyes more readily than
other regular Dacron.
The man-made fibres lacked the unique combination of
aesthetic properties of silk. Dacron and nylon achieved that goal.
The processing of Dacron was changed to finish that goal. Manmades are processed under tension by a continuing process rather
than a batch processing method. The Dacron fibre was processed
106
Polyesters
under very relaxed conditions. Finishing started with a heat
setting process which stabilizes the fabric to control width,
removes any wrinkle and imparts resistance to creasing.
The caustic soda treatment is given. In this treatment, part of
the fibre gets dissolved away like serecin of silk. As a result the
fabric structure is more mobile. To get weave crimp, the remaining
finishes of bleaching, colouring, washing and a final heat setting is
done to fix the colour and assure stability and are all done with the
fabric under completely relaxed conditions.
The trilobal shape has resulted from the shape of the holes in
the spinneret. Melt spun fabrics posses the ability to retain shape
of the spinneret holes.
Polyesters
numerous hydrogen bonds between adjacent chains in the fibre
accounting in large measure to stability and inertness to chemical
reaction. Orlon staple fibre has also wool like properties. At the
same time inherent properties make it outstanding in the
industrial field. The combination of properties of Orlon result in a
fibre most suitable for certain purposes other than nylon and
Dacron. Acylic fibres are produces by two companies and marketed
under the trade name of Acrilan, Creslan, Orlon and Zefran. These
fibres contribute to about 20% of the non-cellulosic man-made
fibres available in the market. Probably the most outstanding
qualities of these is its high resistance to heat, extreme sun-light,
and also to smoke and acid fumes. It has high tensile strength,
resistance to mildew, moth and insects.
Polyesters
Acrilan is wet spun with equipment similar to that used for the
spinning of rayon. Drawing temperatures are not specified. After
drawing, the fibre is crimped cut into staple length and baled for
shipment.
Properties
Acrilan has a specific gravity of 1.17, strength similar to
acrylic. The strength, absorbency, hygroscopicity, lightweight, with
warmth and high covering power are similar to those properties in
Orlon. Acrilan does not have the cashmere like softness of Orlon
and is less sunlight and weather resistant. It has excellent wrinkle
resistance and crease recovery. It has a crisp, springy and wool
like hand.
Creslan
Like other acrylic fibres it contains substances other than
acrylonytrile to give it a better affinity to dyeing. It is produced in
deniers from 2 to 15 and in length from 1 to 6 inches. It is
available in bright and semi dull lustres and is crimped
mechanically.
Polyesters
of dry strength. It is slightly less heat sensitive than acrylics.
Elongation is about 30%. Hygroscopicity is 2.5 %. It is wrinkle
resistant, dimensionally stable and washable. Zefran is white in
colour and has a round cross-section. It can be heat set and is said
not to pill. It is soft, warm, comfortable and drapable. Because of
its absorbent tail Zefran can be dyed by conventional methods with
most of the dyestuffs used for the fibre.
Modacrylics
Dynel
Dynel is a copolymer of 40% acrilonitrile and 60% vinyl
chloride, processed in the same way as in acrylic. Polymerization
takes place in the same way in an autoclave under controlled heat
and pressure. Acetone dissolves the Dynel resin: air is exhausted
in a vacuum tank before spinning. The viscous solution is forced
through metered pumps and through spinnerets, and the fibres are
coagulated in a water bath. After drying, the filaments are hot
drawn to as much as thirteen times of their original length to
orient the molecular chain. Fabrics are later heat set to relax
strain and tension within the yarn in order to give good
dimensional stability.
Polyesters
Properties
Relative hygroscopicity of Verel is 3.5 to 4%, which is higher
than most thermoplastic fibres. And it makes wearability more
comfortable. It is also less subject to static electricity problem. It is
extremely flame resistant. It has good resistance to weather
deterioration. A maximum safe temperature is 300F. The
chemical resistance of Verel is high. It can be easily dyed and is
stain resistant.
Uses
It finds usage in fur like pile fabric for coats, coat lining collar,
and other trims. It is also used in carpets and rugs.
The Nytrils
Darvan
Darvan is a co-polymer of about equal amount of vinyl cyanide,
called vinylidene nitrile and vinyl acetate that copolymerize in the
molecular chain. Polymerization is done in autoclave kettle at a
temperature of 115 F. The polymer is precipitated. It is then dried
and subsequently dissolved for spinning with dimethyl formamide.
Spinning is done through a spinneret into a coagulating water
bath. The filaments are heat stretched and drawn, given antistatic treatment and cut into staple length for use.
Properties
The specific gravity of Darvan is 1.18. It is creamy white in
colour, soft and warm to touch. Its strength and elasticity are
medium. Elongation is 30% and it is resilient and wrinkle and
shrink resistant. Hygroscopicity is 2-3%. It does not pill. Darvan
has excellent weather resistance. It is less heat sensitive than
acrylic. It can be bleached with hypo-chloride.
115
is
then
melted
by
Figure 9.10
Polyesters
Rubber
Rubber is not a true thermo-plastic fibre, it is heat sensitive
and requires much the same care as thermo-plastic fibres.
Process
Latex, the milky sap of the rubber tree is mixed with specific
quantities of some other not so well known chemicals to prevent
air and light deterioration, extruded through fine porcelain tubes
which perform the same function as spinnerets for the other manmade fibres, then vulcanised in a special vulcanising oven.
Radiation is being used in place of vulcanising for curing some
rubber products.
The rubber fibre form the core for lastex yarns. They can be
dyed in pastel colours. After curing, the rubber fibre is put through
a bath of fine talc to facilitate handling.
In the process of covering the core with cotton, rayon, nylon or
other fibre yarns the elasticity and resiliency of the resulting
lastex yarn can be controlled to varied degrees of stretch and
recovery. These processes result in elastic yarns fine enough to be
knitted, woven and made into lace on conventional machines.
Properties
It is highly elastic. Properties of absorbency, comfort and hand
depend largely on the fibre used in covering the rubber core.
Lastex is heat sensitive and will deteriorate at high temperatures.
Uses
The many uses of lastex include womens foundation garments,
elasticised shoe fabrics, elastic hose, surgical bindings, swimsuits
and shirring yarns for machine shirring.
117
118
Yarn
Opening and blending
These two steps are carried on simultaneously and are
necessary for cotton and wool. The steel bands holding cotton
should be cut and cotton lifted out in quantities that can be opened
up in fluffy masses in early operation. Wool comes from the
scouring rooms after bur picking or carbonization, already fairly
well opened. All groups must have large clumps of fibres picked up
(this is called opening).
Blending
Blending is the mixing up of two different fibres of equal
weight or width, to ensure uniformity. Blending is accomplished
either by laying approximately equal amounts or exactly weighted
amounts of the fibres from the various bales or bags in thin layers.
Combing
Combing is a process used to produce yarns for a limited
number of fabric types in which smooth yarns of long fibres and
with considerable twist are used.
Drawing, spinning and winding
These are various parts of the same process. From two to six
card slivers or rovings are fed into the machine together to ensure
further uniformity.
Throwing
Throwing is a process of what drawing, spinning and winding
are to natural fibres. The further step of slashing is the adding of
sizing material, such as starch, to warp yarn in order to give them
body, smoothness and strength to withstand the stresses of loom or
knitting machine operations. This treatment is not necessary for
filling yarns. Quilling is filling of the small spindles or quills that
fit inside the weaving shuttle.
121
Yarn
Knitting yarns
Knitting yarns have little twist as soft texture is ordinarily
desired. Yarns may be given a hard amount of twist for such
fabrics as worsted twills, where the face of weave is visible.
Although the direction of twist in yarn is of concern primarily
to fabric producers. Direction of twist is defined by ASTM as S or Z
as follows:
When the yarn is held in vertical position, the spirals around
its central axis conform in direction of slope to the central portion
of the letter S and Z twist if the spirals conform in direction of
slope with the central portion of the letter Z.
S twist is a clockwise twisted yarn and Z twist is an
anticlockwise twisted yarn.
Figure 10.2
The direction of twist only matters in the construction of ply,
cord and textured balanced yarn, and in construction of certain
fabrics, such as crepes, in which tightly twisted filling yarns of
alternate and equal numbers of S and Z twist yarns form the
pebbles of the crepe, and prevent twisting of the fabric.
123
Yarn
at irregular intervals and held in place by the twist of the base
yarn. It is used for fancy effect in suiting and dress fabric tweeds.
Complex ply yarn
Boucle yarn
These are tight loops projecting from the body of the yarn at
regular intervals, are of 3 ply construction fabrics by knitting or
weaving.
Loop and curl yarn
It is of 3 ply construction. The base yarn is coarse and heavy
effect yarn forms loops or curl, made of single or a ply of 2 or more
singles.
Ratine and gimp yarns
The structure is same as other complex ply yarns. These have a
rough surface appearance. Gimp yarns have the loops on the ratine
yarn. They are soft but securely twisted yarns.
Nub or spot and knot or knop yarns
A nub or spot yarn is made on a special machine that permits
the base yarn to be held stationary while the effect yarn is
wrapped around it several times to build up an enlarged segment.
In knot or knop yarn, brightly coloured fibres are frequently added
to the enlarged knot.
Seed or splash yarn
It is the same as above but the shape of the enlarged knot
segment of splash yarn is elongated and that of the seed yarn is
tiny.
Spiral or cork-screw yarns
In this type of yarn, the effect is obtained either by twisting
125
Figure 10.4
126
Figure 10.5
Yarn
Figure 10.6
Figure 10.7
Textured yarn
A specific of yarns made by special types of manufacturing
processes made from either filament or staple fibre. Different types
of textured yarns are as follows:
Stretch yarns
These are with high level of elastic, extensibility and recovery.
Modified stretch yarns
These have some degree of stretch, but have been stabilised by
processing to control the stretch.
127
Yarn
permanent. Not only blends are used for better functionality of
fabric, but also they are used for beauty of appearance and hand.
Two unlike strands of fibre may be twisted together as a ply
making a combination yarn. Mixtures, combinations and blends
give properties to fabrics that are different from those obtained
with one fibre only.
There is no perfect fibre. All fibres have good, fair and poor
characteristics. Blending enables the technician to combine fibres
so the good qualities are emphasised and the poor qualities are
minimised. Blending can be done at any stage prior to the spinning
operation. It can be done during opening-picking, drawing and
roving.
Opening-picking
Several bales of fibre are laid around the picker and an armful
from each bale is fed alternatively into the machine.
Polymer blending
The raw materials for orlon and acetate have been dissolved
together as a single solution to make a fibre. This creates
possibility of a whole new field of fibres.
Blending is done for several reasons
To improve spinning, weaving and finishing.
Efficiency and uniformity of the product.
To obtain better texture hand and feel.
For economic reasons, expensive fibres can be extended by
blending them with more plentiful fibres.
To produce fabrics with better performance.
To
obtain
cross
dyed
effect
or
create
new
colour
combinations.
129
have
always
been
finished.
The
process
of
Finishing
Singeing
Singeing is the process of burning of all lints on the surface of
the fabric. These protruding ends cause roughness, dullness,
pilling, and interfere with finishing. Singeing is the first finishing
operation for all smooth finished cotton fabrics. Singeing is usually
done by a gas flame singer. The fabric is first run open width over
a heated roller to dry it and then run on high speed through a gas
flame and into a water bath to extinguish any sparks. A desizing
agent is added to the water bath.
Carbonizing
This is the treatment given to wool yarn or fibre with sulphuric
acid. The treatment destroys vegetable matter in the fabric and a
more level desizing can be achieved. Carbonizing also gives better
texture to all wool fibres.
Temporary finishes
These finishes stay on the fabric only till such time as it is
laundered. These may also be called renewable finishes. These
simple procedures can be renewed after each washing e.g. ironing,
starching. Various starches are used for starching cotton garments
like cornflour, arrowroot, sago, rice starch, gelatine, softeners,
resins and cellulose solutions. Some bleaches which are either
oxidising or reducing bleaches are also used as temporary finishes.
Mechanical Finishes
Calendering, pleating, beetling, decatizing, tentering and
napping are some of the mechanical finishes which will be
discussed in detail.
Calendering
Calendering is performed through a stack of rollers through
133
Finishing
The schreiner calender has a metal roller engraved with 200 to
300 fine diagonal lines which are visible only under a hand lens.
The primary purpose of this finish is to produce a deep seated
lustre, rather than a shine, by breaking up reflectance of light
rays. It also flattens the yarns to give a smooth appearance and a
good cover. It can upgrade a sleazy material it was originally used
for cotton sateen and table damask.
Finishing
man-made fibres. The process is comparable to steam ironing. The
dry cloth is wound under tension on a perforated cylinder, steam is
forced through the cylinder. The moisture and heat cause the wool
to become plastic and tension relax and wrinkles are removed. The
yarn becomes set in place. Wet decating is preferred to dry
decating for better finish.
A high degree of lustre can be obtained by the decating process.
Napping
Figure 11.4
In olden days, the napper tied together several teasels, which is
dried vegetable burr of a tree which grows wild in America. The
fabric was swept with a plucking motion, across the surface of the
fabric to raise the surface from the ground weave. The raised fibres
137
Figure 11.5
Napping enhances:
Warmth - By increasing the dead air space, air gets trapped in
here and when the fabric is used as a blanket the body
temperature insulates the trapped air.
Softness - This property is especially important in baby
clothing.
Beauty - Napping makes the fabric attractive.
Water and stain repellence - Fibre ends on the surface cut
down on the rapidity with which the fabric gets wet.
138
Finishing
Shearing
Napped and piled fibres are sheared to control the length of the
pile or nap surface. It is a process similar to lawn mowing.
Sculptured effects are made by flattening portions of the pile with
an engraved roller. And then shearing off the areas that are still
erect. Steaming also helps in bringing about a better appearance.
Brushing
Shearing is followed by brushing to clear off the cut ends.
Brushing is combined with steaming to lay the nap in one direction
and fix it in that position thus giving the up and down direction of
pile and nap fabrics.
Chemical Finishes
Mercerisation
It is the action of caustic soda on a fabric. Cross-linked rayon
and high wet modulus rayon can be mercerised. Mercerisation was
a revolutionary development discovered by John Mercer. He was a
calico printer. He noticed that his cotton filter cloth shrank,
became stronger, more lustrous and more absorbent. After filtering
the caustic soda used in the filtering process added a lustre and
sheen to the filter cloth. The filter cloth also shrank, but became
stronger. Little use was made of mercerisation then because it
caused yardage loss. In 1897, Lowe discovered that if the fabric
were held under tension, it did not shrink but became more
lustrous and silk like. Mercerisation is used on silk and cotton for
many reasons. It increases the lustre and softness, gives great
strength and improves the affinity for dyes and water borne
finishes. Mercerised cotton on a label is associated with lustre.
Fabric mercerisation is done on a frame which contains mangles
for saturating the cloth, a tenter frame for stretching the fabric
139
on
cotton
properties:
Greater absorbency - results from mercerisation because the
caustic soda causes a rearrangement of molecules, thus making
the hydroxyl groups available to absorb more water and water
borne substances. Thus, dyes can enter the fabric readily and they
can be fixed inside the fibre. When they are fixed inside then they
can be more fast. Mercerised cotton and linen take the resin
finishes better.
Increased strength might be considered an important plus value
for mercerising. The swollen molecules are more parallel to the
fibre axis. When stress is applied, the attraction which is in an end
to end molecule attraction, is harder to rupture than in the more
spiral fibril attachment, and thereby strength is enhanced.
Acid finishes
The cotton cloth is treated with strong sulphuric acid, to bring
about a parchment effect. This is the oldest Swiss finish. Since the
acid is strong, the process should be carefully controlled and split
second (5 to 6 seconds) timing is necessary to prevent tendering or
weakening of the fabric. This process is done to make organdie.
After the Haberlein process the fabric is mercerised in order to
improve the transparency. The fabric is then dyed or printed with
colours that will resist acid damage.
Functional Finishes
Water proof and water repellent
Finishes that can be applied to a fabric to make the fabric
repellent are wax emulsions, metallic soaps, and surface active
140
Finishing
agent. They are applied to fabric which have a very high warp
count and are made with fine yarns. These finishes are not
permanent and tend to fall out when the fabric is washed.
Fire retardant finishes
The construction of fabric determines the degree to which
oxygen is made available to the fibre. Thick fibres burn slowly.
Cotton burns leaving an afterglow. Fire retardant compounds cut
off the supply of oxygen to the fabric by forming a coat or by
producing a non-combustible gas, or chemically alter the fibre do it
forms a non-volatile charred residue rather than a charred residue.
Moth and mildew proofing
Both moths and carpet beetles attack the fibres. While they can
digest only wool they eat on other fabric as well.
Means of controlling moth damage:
Cold storage
Odours that repell. Parachlorobenzene and naphthalene
(mothballs) used during storage.
Stomach poison. Florides and silicoflorides are used as a finish.
Contact poison DDT is very effective but frequent applications
are required.
141
hence the water is able to penetrate into the fibre and cause wetting.
Pedesis
Pedesis or the movement of water particles helps to remove the
non-greasy dirt from the fabrics. Thus, the fabric is partially
cleaned by steeping and friction. Salt and alkalies in hard water
hinder pedesis. The particles are made to aggregate, and the large
particles being unable to move in the water will tend to resettle in
the fibre. Water is an excellent solvent, therefore much soluble dirt
and stain are removed during the steeping process.
Cold water is the best solvent. Hot water helps to soften grease,
but other cleansing agents are necessary to emulsify and remove
greasy matter. The value of using hot water lies in the fact that
the solvent power of a liquid increases when its temperature is
raised.
Rain water
Pure water is never found in nature. The purity or otherwise of
water depends on the nature of the soil through which it has
passed before being collected. Rain water is the most pure form of
water, but it contains substances absorbed from the atmosphere
one of which is carbon dioxide which is always present, because it
gets dissolved in water through the atmosphere. Soft water washes
whitest, brightens and saves soap and makes fabrics last longer.
Laundry
When water contains hardening substances like calcium and
magnesium salts in solution in the water equivalent to 1 gram of
CaCO3 in 1 gallon of water the hardness is expressed as (1 of
hardness) 1 gallon of water can be softened by 2 grams of soda for
each degree of hardness. Each gram of CaCO3 in water will use 10
grams of soap to produce lather. Water containing less than 4 of
hardness is known as soft water.
Water softening
Both temporary and permanent hardness can be removed, the
aim should be to soften the water without making it alkaline. Soda
removes both kinds of hardness and can be used at home. The
most common softening plant is zeolite, which also removes
permanent hardness. Soda is inexpensive and easy to use. About 2
grams of soda is needed per degree of hardness. Some other
softening agents are caustic soda, ammonia and borax. Borax does
not harm fabrics if left in the water. It is useful for water
containing more than 20 of hardness.
What is in a soap?
The word soap comes from either the Gallic (Gaulish) word
sapo or a Germanic word saipa. Both sapo and saipa have their
origins from the Latin word sebum meaning fat or tallow. Soap is
a salt of fatty acid. Soaps are mainly used as surfactants for
washing, bathing and cleaning, but they are also used in textile
spinning and are important components of lubricants. Soaps for
cleansing are obtained by treating vegetable or animal oils and
fats with a strong alkaline solution. Fats and oils are composed of
triglycerides: three molecules of fatty acids attached to a single
molecule of glycerol. The alkaline solution often called lye brings
about
chemical
reaction
known
as
saponification.
In
saponification, the fats are first hydrolysed into free fatty acids,
which then combine to form crude soap. Glycerol, often called
145
Figure 12.1
Mechanism of cleansing soaps
When used for cleaning, soap serves as surfactant in
conjunction with water. The cleaning action of this mixture is
attributed to the action of micelles, tiny spheres coated on the
outside with polar hydrophilic (water-loving) groups, encasing a
lipophilic (fat-loving) pocket that can surround the grease
particles, causing them to disperse in water. The lipophilic portion
is made up of the long hydrocarbon chain from the fatty acid. In
other words, whereas normally oil and water do not mix, the
addition of soap allows oils to disperse in water and be rinsed
away. Synthetic detergents operate by similar mechanisms to soap
(refer to Figure 12.2).
Structure of a micelle, a cell-like structure
formed by the aggregation of soap subunits
(such as sodium stearate). The exterior of the
micelle is hydrophilic (attracted to water and the
interior is lipophilic (attracted to oils).
Figure 12.2
Laundry
penetration of water in the fabric easier. It helps to break down
the surface tension or the surface resistance of fabric and thus
soap solution will wet the fabric more readily than plain water.
The dirt on the fabric consists of grease and dust particles the soap
solution breaks up the grease into smaller particles which come off
the fabric and float in the solution. With the removal of the grease
particles the dust particles also get loosened and as they have a
greater affinity towards the soap than the fabric. Thus, the fabric
becomes free from both grease and dirt. Most of the non-greasy dirt
is removed by steeping in water or the movement of water
particles. Soap in water increases the pedesis and thus quickens
the removal of non-greasy dirt.
A good laundry soap should contain 30% of water, 61 to 64% of
combined fatty acids. It should be free of resins. Resins make the
fabric yellow with subsequent washing. It should be readily soluble
in water and also give a good lather. Sometimes turpentine oil is
added to improve the cleansing power of soap.
In soap making, both animal and vegetable fat are used. The
animal fat are tallow and lard and the vegetable fat are coconut oil
and cotton seed oil.
There are two types of soaps: soft soaps and hard soaps.
Hard soaps
Hard soaps are those that do not easily dissolve in water and
hence do not give free lather. They make it hard to clean a soiled
article.
Soft soaps
Soft soaps on the other hand dissolve readily in water and give
free lather, but because of this very property it gets quickly
dissolved in water and gets wasted. Fats which are composed of
higher series of fatty acids such as stearin and palmitin in large
147
Laundry
little at a time and continue to stir. Stir in the same direction until
a thick consistency is achieved. Pour mixture in moulds and allow
the soap to set.
Recipe
Caustic soda: 250 gms.
Water: 5 cups.
Coconut oil: 1.5 Kg.
Maida: 375 gms.
Method
Dissolve the soda in water.
Warm the oil, mix maida and oil.
Add the caustic soda solution to the mixture of oil and stir in
one direction.
Continue stirring in one direction until thick consistency is
achieved.
Pour mixture in moulds and allow to set.
The hot process (boiling process)
This process is the commercial method of soap making.
Fats oils and the alkali are purified. Fats are melted in a large
pan. A weak solution of caustic soda is added gradually and the
mixture is boiled by steam passed directly in the pan at 80 to 100
C, a little below boiling point, until saponification is completed,
which before modern scientific equipment was developed, the soap
maker would determine by taste (the sharp hydroxide taste
disappears after it is saponified) or by seeing the texture. Tasting
soap for readiness is not advisable because sodium and potassium
hydroxides are highly caustic. Some of the fat is saponified and the
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impure dark coloured soap and the fourth layer is some alkaline
liquid.
The advantage of the full boiled hot process is that the exact
amount of hydroxide required need not be known with great
accuracy, after saponification has taken place the neat soap is
precipitated from solution by adding common salt, and the excess
liquid is drained off. This excess carries away with it much of the
impurities and colder compounds in the fat. All the glycerine is
also removed to leave a whiter soap.
The soap is then passed into crutching pans when colour or
perfume are added. Then the soap is moulded and cut or made into
flakes or powders.
What is a detergent?
1. Active ingredients to remove soil and produce foam or suds,
by themselves, for heavy-duty wash, a second major
component are necessary - a builder.
2. Builders are of 2 types: inorganic and organic. The
inorganic builders are primarily phosphates, but they do not
foam or sud, they do increase detergency (by reducing the
surface tension of the water).
Organic builders - These builders also act as water
softeners.
3. Anti deposition agent which is needed to keep soil
suspended once it has been removed.
4. Sodium silicate is used to protect pots and pans and
aluminium washer parts such as agitators, fans, tubs, etc
from pitting or attack by inorganic builders.
5. Brightener or optical bleach is added for white effect on the
fabric.
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Optical bleaches
Optical bleaches are used for off-white and white fabrics. These
compounds do not bleach the fabric, but change the reflection of
the light rays. They reflect blue light more for this effect
fluorescent colourless dyes are used. These dyes change the
invisible ultraviolet light into visible light. So the colour of the
fabric becomes dependent upon the light in which it is seen in
sunlight, these fabrics look dazzling white. These fluorescent
whiteners are often incorporated in detergents as whiter than
new.
Bleaching
Bleaching cleans and whitens grey goods. In home laundry,
bleaches are used to whiten clothes that are stained and become
yellow after repeated washing.
Bleaching is a chemical reaction, in which two types of
reactions take place:
(1) Oxidation.
(2) Reduction.
(1) Oxidation
In this to remove the colour sodium or chlorine compounds are
brought into use H2O2, hypochlorite, sodium hypochlorite, sodium
chlorate, potassium chromate (K2CrO4), potassium permanganate
(KMNO4), sodium chlorite are the various compounds used for
bleaching.
(2) Reduction
Chlorine bleaches are used for cellulose fibre. The bleaching is
done by hypochlorous acid liberated during the bleaching process,
tender cellulosic fibre. Chlorine bleaches are bactericidal agents.
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Prussian blue: This is ferric ferrocynide. It was discovered in
the eighteenth century. It is a mixture of iron sulphate with
potassium ferrocynide. This is also insoluble in water. Its use is
undesirable as it is a compound of iron and is decomposed by
alkaline substances.
Indigo: This is directly prepared from the leaves of a certain
plant, and it is not manufactured synthetically. It is not very much
used in laundry. It has a dull blue colour.
Aniline blue: This is made from coal tar dyes. Its colour may
vary from blue to purple. It is of two kinds. One gives best results
in acid medium and the other in an alkaline medium. This is
readily soluble and is therefore the best to use in laundry. Indigo
and ultramarine are not completely soluble in water and remain in
suspended particles. Suspended blues will not give an even colour
to the fabrics apart from leaving patchy discolourations.
These are actually dyes and are marketed in great variety by
manufacturers, they are easy to prepare, control and apply. These
are aniline dyes. Purplish blue being the most common shade, as it
gives a whitish appearance.
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The stain removal chart has been adapted from Household Textiles and Laundry
Work by Durga Deulkar.
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